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PROCEEDINGS 


OF   THE 


ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL  SOCIETY 


AMD 


Monthly  Record  of  Geography. 


PUBLISHED  UNDEB  THE  AOTHOBITT  OF  THE  COUNCIL,  AND  EDITED  BY 
THE  ASSISTANT  SEOBETABY,   1,  SAVILB  BOW. 

NEW    MONTHLY    SERIES. 

VOL.    IX.,    1887. 


LONDON: 
EDWABD  STANFOED,   55,   CHARING  CROSa 

1887. 

J9f 


212808 


LONDON: 

PfilHTED  BT  WILUAM  CLOWES  AMD  80N8,  LIMITED, 

STAMIORD  8TBEET  AMD  CHABIMa  0B0S8. 


ROYAL   GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY. 


PATRON. 

HER    MAJESTY    THE    QUEEN, 

VICE-PATRON. 

HIS  ROYAL  HIGHNESS  THE  PRINCE  OF  WALES,  K.G.,  K.T.,  K.P., 

G.C.B.,  &c.,  &c. 

Honorary  President. 

HIS  ROYAL  HIGHNESS  THE  DUKE  OP  EDINBURGH,  K.G.,  E.T., 

G.C.S.L,  &c.,  &c. 


COUNCIL 

(ELECTED  23bd  MAY,  1887). 
President— General  Richaed  Strachey,  R.E.,  C.S.L,  F.R.S. 

Vice-Presidents. 

Right  Hon.  Lord  Aberdare,  G.C.B., 

F.RS. 
Sir  Rutherford  Alcock,  K.C.B. 
Sir    Joseph    Hooker,    K.C.S.L,  C.B., 

F.R.S. 


Major-General  Sir  H.  C.  Rawlinson, 

K.C.B. 
General  Sir  C.  P.  Beaucuamp  Walker, 

K.C.B. 
Colonel  H.  Yule,  R.E.,  C.B. 


Treasurer— Reginald  T.  Cocks,  Esq. 

Trustees— Sir  Barrow  H.  Ellis,  K.C.S.L ;  Sir  John  Lubbock,  Bart.,  F.R.S.,  M.P. 

Secretaries — Clements  R.  Markham,  Esq.,  C.B.,  F.R.S. ; 
Douglas  W.  Freshfield,  Esq. 

Foreign  Secretary — Lord  Arthur  Russell. 

Members  of  Council. 


Sir  Henry  Barkly,  G.C.M.G.,  K.C.B. 

W.  T.  Blanford,  Esq.,  F.R.S. 

Admiral  Lindesay  Brine. 

Hon.  G.  C.  Brodrick. 

J.  Anxan  Bryce,  Esq. 

Colonel  Sir  Francis  W.  de  Winton, 

R.A.,  K.C.M.G. 
Right  Hon.  Sir  M.  E.  Grant  Duff, 

G.C.S.I. 
Francis  Galton,  Esq.,  F.R.S. 
Major-General   Sir   F.    J.    Goldsmid, 

K.C.S.L,  CB. 
Colonel  J.  A.  Grant,  C.B.,  F.R.S. 


Sir  John  Kihk,  G.C.M.G.,  F.RS. 
Lieut.-General  Sir  Peter  S.  Lumsden, 

G.C.B. 
Colin  Mackenzie,  Esq. 
William  Mackinnon,  Esq.,  CLE. 
E.  Delmar  Morgan,  Esq. 
Cutiibert  E.  Peek,  Esq.,  F.R.A.S. 
Sir  Rawson  W.  Rawson,  K.C.M.G.,  CB. 
Sir  Thomas  F.  Wadf^  K.C.B. 
Captain  W.  J.  L.  Wharton,  R.N. 
General  J.  T.  Walker,  CB.,  F.R.S. 
Colonel  Sir  Chas.  W.  Wilson,  R.E., 

K.C.M.G. 


ABsiBtazit  Seoretarj  and  Editor  of  TranaactionB— H.  W.  Bates,  Esq.,  F.R.S.,  F.L.B. 

Librarian—J.  Scott  Keltie,  Esq. 

Map  Curator— John  Coles,  Esq.,  F.R JL.B. 

Chief  Clerk— B.  J.  Evis,  Esq. 

Bankers— liettZB.  Gods,  Beddulfb,  and  Co.,  48,  Charing  Cross. 


CONDITIONS  OP  FELLOWSHIP,  &o. 

Candidates  for  admission  into  the  Society  mnst  be  proposed  and 
seconded  by  Fellows,  and  it  is  necessary  that  the  description  and  resi- 
dence of  such  Candidates  should  be  clearly  stated  on  their  Certificates. 

It  is  provided  by  Chapter  IV.,  §  1,  of  the  Eegulations,  that, 

**  Every  Ordinary  Fellow  shall,  on  bis  election,  be  required  to  pay  £8  as  bis 
*  admission  fee,  and  £2  as  his  annual  contribution  for  the  year  ending  on  the  Slst 
M  December  then  next  ensuing,  or  he  may  compound  either  at  his  entrance  by  one 
**  payment  of  £28,  or  at  any  subsequent  period  by  the  payment  of  £25,  if  his  entrance 
*'  fee  be  already  paid." 

All  Subscriptions  are  payable  in  advance,  on  the  1st  of  January  in 
each  year. 

The  privileges  of  a  Fellow  include  admission  (with  one  friend)  to  all 
Meetings  of  the  Society,  and  the  use  of  the  Library  and  Map-room. 
Each  Fellow  is  also  entitled  to  receive  a  copy  of  the  New  Monthly 
Series  of  the  Proceedings  and  the  Supplementary  Papers,  the  former 
of  which  is  forwarded,  free  of  expense,  to  addresses  in  the  United 
Kingdom,  and  the  latter  obtained  on  application  at  the  Society's  office. 

Ck>pie0  of  the  RegulationB  and  Candidates'  Certifloates  may  be  had  on  appUoa- 
tion  at  the  Society's  Office,  1,  Savile  Bow,  London,  W. 


CONTENTS. 


Authon  are  alone  respcmible  for  their  reepeetive  itaiemmUe, 


No.  1.    January. 

PAOB 

The  Islands  of  the  New  Britain  Group.    By  H.  H.  Romilly 1 

Journey  of  the  Expedition  under  Golooel  Woodthorpe,  B.E.,  from  Upper 
Asaam  to  the  Irawadi^  and  Return  over  the  Patkoi  Kange.    By  Major 

G.  R.  Macgregor 19 

Journey  of  Mr.  J.  T.  Last  from  Blantyre  to  the  Namuli  Hills        42 

The  late  Dr.  G.  A.  Fischer's  Expedition  for  the  Relief  of  Dr.  Junker     ..      ..  45 

Geographical  Notes        47 

Report  of  the  Evening  Meetings 53 

Proceedings  of  Foreign  Societies 54 

New  Geographical  Publications  and  New  Maps         57 

Map. — Ck)untry  between  the  Brahmaputra  and  the  Upper  Irawadi 68 


No.  2.     February. 

The  Dragon  Lake  of  Pamir.    By  Major-General  Sir  Henry  C.  Rawlinson,  k.c.b.  69 

Explorations  in  South-eastern  New  Guinea.  By  Rev.  J.  Chalmers  ..  ..  71 
The   Physical   Geography  of   Japan,  with   Remarks   on   the   People.    By 

Dr.  Edmund  Naumann 86 

Captain  Maitland's  and  Captain  Talbot's  Journeys  in  Afghanistan 102 

A  Journey  in  the  Province  of  San  Paulo,  Brazil,  in  July-September  1885.    By 

R.F.  Holme 108 

Geographical  Notes        114 

Correspondence      121 

Olatuary 123 

Report  of  the  Evening  Meetings 126 

Proceedings  of  Foreign  Societies 127 

New  Geographical  Publications  and  New  Maps         129 

Maps. — Sonth-eastem  Part  of  New  Guinea ;  Physical  Map  of  Japan    ..      ..  140 


No.  3.     March. 

On  the  Scope  and  Methods  of  Geography.    By  H.  J.  Mackinder,  b.a.  ..      ..  141 

Mr.  A.  D.  Carey's  Travels  in  Turkistan  and  Tibet 175 

A  Journey  from  Blantyre  to  Angoni-land  and  Back.    By  J.  T.  Last,  Com- 
mander of  the  Society's  Expedition  to  the  Namuli  Hills,  East  Central 

Africa      177 

Geographical  Notes        188 


▼1  CONTENTS. 

Obituary 194 

Report  of  the  Evening  Meetings 201 

Proceedings  of  Foreign  Societies 202 

New  Geographical  Publications  and  New  Maps         205 

Map. — Blantyre  to  Angoni-land  (Mr.  Last's  route) 212 


No.  4.    ApriL 

Prejevalsky's  Journeys  and  Discoveries  in  Central  Asia.     By  E.  Delmar 

Morgan 213 

Potanin's  Journey  in  North-western  China  and  Eastern  Tibet 233 

A  Journey  in  Northern  and  Eastern  Manchuria 235 

Geographical  Notes        239 

Correspoudeuce       252 

Report  of  the  Evening  Meetings 254 

Proceedings  of  Foreign  Societies 254 

New  Geographical  Publications  and  New  Maps         258 

Map.— Tibet:  General  Prejevakky's  Routes       268 


No.  6.    May, 

The  Alpine  Regions  of  Alaska.    By  Lieut.  H.  W.  Seton-Karr        269 

Between  the  Nile  and  the  Congo  :  Dr.  Junker  and  the  (Welle)  Makua.    By 

J.T.Wills      285 

Gteographical  Notes        304 

Report  of  the  Evening  Meetings 311 

Proceedings  of  Foreign  Societies 312 

New  Geographical  Publications  and  New  Maps 315 

Maps. — Alaska ;  Sketch-Map  of  Central  Africa 330 


No.  6.    June, 

The  Annua    Address  on  the  Progress  of  Geography :  1886-7,    By  General 

B.  Strachey,  B.E.,  FJUB.,  Vice-President       331 

The  Lu  River  of  Tibet :  Is  it  the  Source  of  the  Irawadi  or  the  Salwin  ?    By 

General  J.  T.  Walker,  B.B.,  F.B.B 352 

Geographical  Notes        377 

Obituary 386 

Report  of  the  Evening  Meetings 388 

Proceedings  of  Foreign  Societies 388 

New  Geographical  Publications  and  New  MapK         392 

Map.— South-eastern  'Hbet 398 


CONTENTS.  VU 


No.  7.     July, 

PAQB 

Explorations  in  Central  Africa.    By  Dr.  W.  Junker 399 

Notes  on  a  Part  of  the  Western  Frontier  of  British  Honduras.    By  William 

Miller,  Assistant  Surveyor-General,  British  Honduras      420 

Russian  Geographical  Work  in  1886.    From  Russian  Sources,  by  E.  Delmar 

Morgan 423 

Geographical  Notes        437 

Correspondence       444 

The  Anniversary  Meeting      446 

Report  of  the  Evening  Meetings 455 

Proceedings  of  Foreign  Societies 456 

New  Geographical  Publications  and  New  Maps         458 

Maps. — North-western  Frontier  of  British  Honduras       421 

Re^on  between  the  Upper  Nile  and  the  Congo 466 


No.  8.     August 

On  the  Society's  Expedition  to  the  Namuli  Hills,  East  Africa.    By  J.  T.  Last  467 

A  Journey  through  Yemen.    By  Major-General  F.  T.  Haig 479 

Recent  Changes  in  the  Map  of  East  Africa       490 

Journeys  in  the  District  of  Delagoa  Bay,  Dec.  1886-Jan.  1887.    By  H.  E. 

CTNeill 497 

Expedition  of  Mr.  George  P.  James  from  the  Chanchamayo  in  Peru  to  the 

Atlantic 505 

Geographical  Notes 608 

Report  of  the  Evening  Meetings 513 

Proceedings  of  Foreign  Societies 513 

New  Geographical  Publications  and  New  Maps         517 

Maps. — Delagoa  Bay  and  Neighbouring  Region        498 

East  Africa :  Political  Boundaries 530 


Ko.  d.    September. 

A  Journey  in  Manchuria.    By  H.  E.  M.  James,  of  the  Bombay  Civil  Service  531 
The  Aboriginal  Indian  Races  of  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz,  Mexico.    By  A. 

Baker,  British  Consul,  Tera  Cruz        568 

Indian  Surveys,  1885-6        574 

Geographical  Notes        576 

Obituary 583 

Proceedings  of  Foreign  Societies 584 

New  Geographical  Publications  and  New  Maps         586 

Map. — ^Bianchuria 594 


▼m  CJONTENIS. 

No.  10.     October. 

PAOX 

Discovery  of  Two  New  Rivera  in  British  New  Ghiinea.    By  Theodore  F.  Bevan  696 
The  Ra'ian  Moeris ;  or  Storage  Reservoir  of  Middle  Egypt.    By  Cope  White- 
house,  M^ 608 

The  Feasibility  of  the  Ralan  Project.     By  Colonel  Ardagh^CLB.,  R.B.     ..      ..  613 

The  Desert  from  Dahshur  to  Atn  Raian.    By  Captain  Conyers  Surtees  ..      ..  613 
The  Bar  Yusuf,  roughly  describing  its  Present  State  and  Uses.    By  Captain 

R.  H.  Brown,  b.b 614 

The  Caucasus.    By  Douglas  W.  Freshfield       617 

Geographical  Notes       621 

Proceedings  of  the  Geographical  Section  of  the  British  Association,.  Manchester 

Meeting 628 

New  Geographical  Publications  and  New  Maps         648 

Maps. — The  Jubilee  and  Philp  Rivera,  British  New  Guinea ;  the  Fayomn  and 

the  Ralan  Basin,  Egypt       668 

No.  11.    November. 

Notes  on  a  Sketch- Map  of  Two  Routes  in  the  Eastern  Desert  of  Egypt    By 

Ernest  A.  Floyer,  f.l.8. 659 

(Geographical  Notes        681 

Obituary 687 

Proceedings  of  the  G^graphical  Section  of  the  British  Association,  Manchester 

Meeting 689 

Proceedings  of  Foreign  Societies 707 

New  Geographical  Publications  and  New  Maps        709 

Map.— Eastern  Desert  of  Egypt 780 

No.  12.     December. 

A  Journey  round  Chinese  Turkistan  and  along  the  Northern  Frontier  of 

Tibet.    By  A.  D.Carey        731 

Silva  Porto's  Journey  from  Bihe  (Bie)  to  the  Bakuba  Country        753 

G^eographical  Notes        757 

Report  of  the  Evening  Meetings 765 

Pkoceedings  of  the  G^graphioal  Section  of  the  British  Association.    Manchester 

Meeting 769 

Phxseedings  of  Foreign  Societies 774 

New  Geographical  Publications  and  New  Maps 777 

Maps. — Chinese  Turkistan  and  Northern  Tibet ;  Silva  Porto's  Routes  in  West 

Central  Africa 790 

IHDBX      791 


PROCEEDINGS 

OP  THE  -        ,. 

ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOOIEl^^ 

AND  MONTHLY  RECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


Tlie  Islands  of  the  New  Britmn  Group, 
By  H.  H.  RoMiLLY.* 

(Bead  at  the  Evening  Meeting,  November  22nd,  1886.) 

A  FEW  years  ago  this  group,  in  common  with  many  other  South  Sea 
Island  groups,  was  almost  unknown,  and  even  at  the  present  time  not 
very  much  is  really  known  of  it.  The  Germans,  by  whom  it  is 
principally  settled,  seem  to  keep  their  information  very  much  to  them- 
selves. They  have  changed  the  names  of  the  islands  from  New  Britain 
and  New  Ireland,  to  New  Mecklenburg  and  New  Pomerania  (Neu 
Pommem),  but  it  is  simpler  for  our  purposes  to  retain  the-  names  by 
which  they  were  first  known.  It  is  unnecessary  to  discuss  their  first 
discovery. 

The  records  of  the  early  navigators  are  very  meagre,  and  many  of 
them  have  been  lost.  It  is  always  uncertain  who  the  discoverers  of  these 
groups  were,  nor  does  it  really  much  matter.  We  flatter  ourselves  that 
Captain  Cook  was  the  first  to  land  in  Australia,  but  it  is  certain  that  the 
Spaniards  landed  on  its  western  coast  and  hoisted  their  flag  there  more 
than  a  hundred  years  before  Cook's  visit. 

Dampier  gives  some  slight  account  of  New  Britain,  but  he  only  re- 
mained a  few  days  there.  He  visited  the  magnificent  harbour  now 
called  Blanche  Bay  and  hoisted  the  British  flag  there.  His  intercourse 
with  the  natives,  however,  does  not  seem  to  have  been  at  all  intimate. 

I  propose  in  this  paper  to  speak  of  the  New  Britain  group  as  it  was 
when  I  knew  it  in  1881  and  1883.  At  that  time  the-  white  population 
was  very  small  and  very  scattered.  It  was  composed  of  men  of  all 
nationalities  and  conditions  of  society.  We  had  there  a  mixture  of 
French,  English,  German  and  Italian  roughs,  runaway  sailors,  a 
few  survivors  of  the  ill-fated  Marquis  de  Ray's  colonising  expedition, 
well-educated  gentleman-like  missionaries,  and  on6  or  two  men  who  had 
evidently  once  been  English  gentlemen,  but  who  had,  doubtless  for  very 

•  For  map  see  *  Proceedings,*  188G,  p.  60S. 
No.  I.— Jan.  1887.]  B 


•THJ:  ISLANDS  OF  THE  KEW  BRITAIN  GROUP. 


sufficiont  reaei^Qs;  bad  to  leave  tbeir  homes  and  bury  themselves  in  the 
most  out-<-iPtbe'\vay  spot  they  could  find, 

Therft*'Weffe  two  little  oommunities :  one  at  Matupi,  a  small  island 
in  Blani^Ke -ftay,  and  the  other  in  the  Duke  of  York  Islandj  situated  in 
the  ehantrel  l>et\veen  New  Britain  and  New  Ireland.  The  former  was 
Germ-^fi,  and  was  the  headquarters  of  the  great  trading  firm  of  Robertson 
aiid.,I?ernsheini,  of  Hamburg,  and  the  other  was  the  abode  of  the 
LEfl^ieh  Weslcyan  Mission,  at  the  head  of  which  was  the  Eev.  George 
•thrown.  As  I  have  observed  in  many  other  places,  the  tendency  of  the 
/idle  eottlera  was  to  live  as  near  rb  possible  to  the  Mission  quarters.  No 
doubt  they  felt  a  sense  of  protection  in  so  doing,  and  in  this  opinion 
they  were  justified^  as  on  more  than  one  occasion  the  niissionarios  inter- 
jiosed  successfully  between  the  whites  and  blacks.  There  were  also 
isolated  traders  living  by  themselves  at  points  on  the  New  Britain  coasi» 
hut  at  the  date  of  my  first  visit  no  one  had  resided  in  New  Ireland. 
At  that  time  the  natives  of  that  island  w^ere  too  hostile  and  treacherous 
to  make  that  advisable,  A  small  trade  in  coco-nuts  was,  however,  carried 
on  with  them,  and  on  several  occasions  the  island  was  visited  by  Mr. 
Brown,  and  I  believe  ho  once  performed  the  feat  of  walking  nearly 
across  it,  and  sighting  the  sea  on  the  east  coa&t. 

Before  describiDg  any  of  the  habits  of  the  native  and  foreign 
inhabitants  of  this  group  I  will  give  a  short  description  of  the 
islands  themselves,  their  appearance,  and  geological  formation.  On 
approaching  New  Britain  from  the  southward  the  first  land  sighted 
is  probably  the  high  mountain  called  Mount  Bcaw temps  Beaupr6* 
This  is  a  tall  conical -shaped  hill,  some  4000  feet  in  height, 
generally  covered  with  clouds.  It  is  usually  free  from  them  in  the 
early  morning  and  just  before  sunset,  and  is  at  that  time  an  excellent 
landmark,,  as  it  can  be  seen  on  clear  days  at  a  distance  of  some  40  miles. 
In  a  country  where  the  natural  landmarks  of  the  coast  are  incorrectly 
or  vaguely  described  in  the  Admiralty  charts  the  value  of  so  ctmspicuous 
an  object  cannot  be  over-estimated. 

After  sighting  this  mountain,  and  thereby  having  ascertained  liis 
position  correctly,  the  navigator  shapes  his  course  along  the  New  Britain 
coast,  and  as  cloj^e  to  it  as  is  consistent  with  safety,  in  order  to  avoid 
the  tremendous  currents  of  the  mid-channol  between  the  two  islands. 
These  currents  are  very  capricious,  and  he  may  have  the  bad  luck, 
as  I  once  had,  to  bo  beating  about  in  the  channel  for  a  week  or  ten 
days  without  making  any  progress.  It  is  ikirly  free  from  the  great 
danger  to  sailors  in  those  seas,  coral  reefs,  but  it  ia  shaped  like  a  funnel, 
and  is  open  to  the  full  force  of  the  Gouth-eaat  trade  wind,  which  blows 
B8  fiercely  in  New  Britain  as  it  does  anywhere. 

The  sea  is  one  of  the  most  dangerous  to  small  sailing  craft  that  I 
know  anywhere,  very  short  and  tintrue,  with  almost  conical -shaped 
waves.    Something  like  it  can  occasionally  be  seen  on  our  own  coasts 


THE  ISLANDS  OF  THE  NEW  BRITAIN  GROUP.  3 

when  a  strong  south-westerly  gale  blows  up  the  Bristol  Channel.  The 
tides  have  been  a  puzzle  to  sailors  since  they  first  navigated  those 
waters.  On  one  occasion  I  was  beating  down  the  channel  on  my  way 
from  Matupi  to  New  Guinea  in  a  small  schooner.  We  had  a  south-east 
trade  wind  blowing  nearly  a  gale  in  our  teeth.  For  a  week  we  made 
precisely  the  same  points  of  land  on  each  tack,  and  as  far  as  we  could 
see  we  neither  lost  nor  made  a  yard.  One  night,  just  as  we  were 
beginning  to  despair  of  ever  getting  out  of  the  channel,  and  were  dis- 
cussing the  advisability  of  returning  to  Matupi  till  the  weather  should 
moderate,  the  current,  without  any  change  of  wind,  suddenly  altered  its 
direction  from  up  the  channel  to  down  the  channel,  and  in  a  few  hours 
we  werfe  out  at  sea. 

But  to  resume  our  cruise.  Having  made  Mount  Beautemps-Beaupre, 
the  sailor  would  hug  the  New  Britain  coast  till  he  sighted  the  next 
conspicuous  landmark,  a  tall  extinct  volcano  named  the  Mother. 
This  mountain  is  situated  on  a  narrow  arm  of  the  mainland,  which, 
curviug  to  the  southward,  helps  to  protect  the  harbour  of  Blanche  Bay 
from  the  south-east  trade  winds.  To  north  and  south  of  it  are  two 
other  extinct  volcanoes,  the  North  and  South  Daughters.  Immediately 
to  the  eastward  of  it  is  a  small  partially  active  one,  and  which  for  three 
days  in  1878  was  in  full  eruption,  while  still  further  to  the  northward 
of  it  are  no  less  than  three  small  craters,  evidently  extinct  for  many 
years,  as  the  vegetation  on  their  sides  proves.  Blanche  Bay  evidently 
has  been,  and  still  is,  a  very  active  volcanic  centre.  The  small  cone, 
which  still  has  an  appearance  as  if  it  might  any  day  burst  into  violent 
eruption,  smokes  incessantly.  The  natives  are  much  afraid  of  it, 
though  I  believe  they  have  no  particular  superstition  concerning  it,  and 
on  one  occasion  when  I  made  its  ascent  in  company  with  a  naval  officer, 
we  had  to  go  alone,  as  no  native  would  accompany  us.  That  there  is 
still  plenty  of  latent  energy  in  it,  is  evident  from  the  fact  that  at  its 
base  the  sea-water  is  so  hot  for  several  hundred  yards  from  it,  that  it  is 
impossible  to  hold  the  hand  in  it.  In  another  part  of  the  bay,  not  a 
mile  from  the  mountain's  base,  is  a  boiling  river  of  strong  sulphurous 
water,  up  which  a  boat  can  be  pulled  for  several  hundred  yards.  In 
many  places  the  water  is  actually  boiling.  It  seems  strange  that  in  a 
country  like  New  Britain,  where  some  thirty  or  forty  per  cent,  of  the 
natives  are  afflicted  with  skin  diseases,  that  they  should  not  have  re- 
cognised the  curative  powers  of  this  boiling  river.  But  they  are  content 
to  continue  in  their  disgusting  condition,  even  with  the  natural  cure  at 
hand. 

During  the  eruption  in  1878,  a  small  island  of  about  three  hundred 
yards  in  length  by  one  hundred  yards  wide,  made  its  appearance  in  a 
night.  The  natives  say  it  was  upheaved,  but  it  appears  to  be  more 
probable  that  it  was  caused  by  falling  mud  and  debris.  The  natives  all 
fled  in  their  terror,  so  that  they  were  hardly  fair  judges.     The  whole 

B  2 


THE  ISLANDS  OF  THE  NEW  BRITAIN  GROUP. 


BUiface  of  St.  George's  Channel  was  so  tLickly  covered  with  pamice* 
Btone,  that  a  German  friend  of  mine  who  was  trying  to  enter  it  imme- 
diately after  the  occmrence,  could  not  conceive  what  had  happened,  as 
from  a  distance  it  appeared  as  if  St.  George's  Channel  had  altogether 
disappeared  and  an  impenetrable  barrier  of  land  taken  its  place. 

For  weeks  afterwards  many  parts  of  the  bay  were  uninhabitablo  to 
whites  on  account  of  the  mill  ions  of  fish  which  had  been  killed  by  the 
boiling  water  in  the  narrow  ehallow  parts  of  it.  "When  I  lived  in 
JIatupi,  five  yeai-s  after  this  eventi  we  had  slight  earthquake  shocks 
ncaily  cveiy  day,  and  Bometimes  such  severe  otjes,  lasting  for  so  long, 
that  we  fled  out  of  the  hoMiie  for  safety.  On  one  occaBion,  a  severe 
tihock  of  oartbr|iiako  was  the  cause  of  some  amusement  to  us.  I  had  been 
out  Bhuoting  one  terribly  hot  day  with  a  naval  officer.  He  had  had  a  severe 
attack  of  sunstroke  some  years  previously  on  the  west  coast  of  Africa, 
and  he  was  very  nervous  about  himself  on  this  account  in  hot  weather. 
At  the  conclusion  of  our  day's  sport,  as  we  were  walking  home,  we 
were  both,  apparently  without  any  cause,  precipitated  violently  on  to 
our  faces,  and  for  the  next  second  or  two  the  ground  was  shaking  and 
heaving,  and  we  did  not  know  clearly  what  had  happened.  I  very  soon 
recovered  myself,  as  I  recognised  at  once  what  was  the  matter,  but  my 
naval  friend,  who  had  only  been  one  day  in  the  country,  and  was  not 
accustomed  to  its  eccentricities,  in  a  tone  of  intense  anguish  said,  "  I 
knew  it  would  happen  sooner  or  later,  and  now  it  has  come.**  He  made 
no  effort  to  get  up  for  a  few  minutes,  but  by  degrees  he  began  to 
realise  that  there  was  nothing  the  matter  with  him,  and  that  his 
supposed  attack  of  sunstroke  was  due  to  underground,  and  not  to  over- 
bead  influences. 

Tho  climate  of  the  group  Taries,  as  it  must  do  in  all  the  large 
Pacific  islands.  On  the  coast,  where  the  healthful  influences  of  the  sea 
breezes  can  be  felt,  there  is  not  much  to  complain  of.  During  the  day- 
time for  seven  or  eight  months  of  the  year,  the  trade  winds  blow,  Ijut 
during  tho  night-time  the  sea  breeze  usually  falls,  and  its  place  is  taken 
by  the  land  breeze,  which  blows  from  tbe  interior  down  to  the  coast 
and  a  few  miles  out  to  sea.  It  brings  with  it  malarial  poisoning  from 
tho  swamps  inland.  I  believe,  however,  the  simple  precaution  of 
putting  on  extra  clothing  after  sunset  every  night  would  prevent  much 
fever.  Matupi,  where  the  head  German  statiouB  are,  is  an  ejttraordi- 
narily  health  place  and  fever  is  unknown  there.  The  natives  themselves 
appear  to  sufier  from  it  quite  as  much  as  the  whites,  and  the  proportioa 
of  deaths  from  this  cause  must  be  very  large.  They  do  not,  however, 
consider  it  a  natural  death.  The  only  two  forms  of  death  they  recognise 
as  being  natural  are  old  age,  not  very  common,  and  a  death  from 
violence,  "When  a  native  has  fever  he  accuses  some  friend  or  enemy  of 
his  of  bewitching  him,  and  hie  family  invariably  adopt  hie  view  of  the 
case. 


THE  ISLANDS  OF  THE  NEW  BRITAIN  GROUP.  5 

Tlie  yegetation  is  in  many  places  as  luxuriant *and  varied  as  tropical 
yegetation  can  be.  In  the  interior,  especially  in  protected  valleys  and 
ravines  where  the  atmosphere  is  from  year's  end  to  year's  end  of  the 
nature  of  a  vapour  bath,  it  must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated.  Gigantic 
forest  trees,  covered  with  ferns,  orchids,  lycopodie^  and  parasites  of  all 
sorts  seem  united  to  each  other  and  to  the  earth  they  spring  from,  by 
a  beautiful  impenetrable  mass  of  foliage.  Birds  innumerable  can  be 
heard,  but  are  only  visible  to  the  practised  eye  of  the  savage.  Insects 
of  every  varied  size  and  hue  flit  about  and  add  a  lustre  to  the  scene,  and 
to  sum  up  briefly,  the  vegetation  in  the  New  Britain  bush,  and  the 
richness  of  the  volcanic  soil,  can  be  surpassed  in  no  part  of  the  globe. 

There  should  be  no  form  of  tropical  agriculture  practised  among  white 
men  which  would  not  be  successful  in  this  country.  The  natives  them- 
selves are  great  agriculturists,  and  with  the  smallest  possible  amount  of 
labour  produce  crops  of  the  richest  possible  description.  On  the  occasion 
of  a  long  walk  of  mine  from  the  coast  to  the  base  of  Mount  Beautemps- 
Beaupr6, 1  was  amazed  to  observe  the  closeness  of  the  cultivation,  and 
the  skill  with  which  the  native  labourers  had  selected  the  sites  of  their 
gardens,  with  a  view  to  combining  the  richest  possible  soil  with  the 
most  inaccessible  positions  as  a  protection  against  their  neighbours. 
In  what  appeared  to  be  impossible  places  to  get  at,  fissures  in  rocks 
on  the  sides  of  steep  precipices,  one  would  constantly  see  small  patches 
of  sugar-cane  and  beds  of  yam  and  sweet  potato.  Even  the  taro,  a  root 
which  requires,  artificial  irrigation,  could  occasionally  be  seen  growing. 
The  native  gardeners  had  taken  advantage  of  every  little  trickle  of 
water  down  the  hill-sides,  and  had  cunetructed,  by  means  of  dams  and 
artificial  channels,  little  damp  patches  of  soil  in  which  the  taro  could 
be  grown.  The  women  were  the  actual  labourers  in  the  gardens,  but 
all  the  little  engineering  difficulties  in  making  such  gardens  as  these 
were  overcome  by  the  men.  Doubtless  the  great  difficulty  they  have  to 
contend  with  is  the  distrust  and  suspicion  with  which  each  man  apparently 
treats  his  neighbour.  One  constantly  sees  large  tracts  of  very  fertile 
land  uncleared  because  of  the  ease  with  which  any  cultivation  there 
could  be  destroyed  by  hostile  neighbours.  They  are,  therefore,  driven 
to  select  inaccessible  situations  for  their  gardens,  and,  as  a  rule,  in 
the  interior,  each  man  builds  his  house  in  some  commanding  situation 
near  it. 

Now,  to  leave  the  interior  and  return  to  the  coast.  To  the 
north  of  New  Britain  the  sea  is  an  intricate  network  of  coral 
reefs  and  small  rocky  islands.  But  very  few  ships  have  visited 
New  Britain  from  that  side,  as  the  danger  for  sailing  vessels  is  extreme. 
New  Britain  seems  to  act  as  a  barrier  to  the  trade  wind,  for  while  it 
blows  with  great  violence  on  its  south  coast,  to  the  northward  of  it  is 
usually  a  region  of  calms  and  strong  currents.  It  was  my  bad  fate  once 
to  be  endeavouring  to  go  from  Astrolabe  Bay  on  the  New  Guinea  coast 


THE  ISLANDS  OF  THE  NEW  BRITAIN  GKuUP, 


to  the  Duko  of  York  Island.  For  a  week  wq  tried  to  befti  tlirougli 
Dampier  Strait  in  Tain^  and  at  last  we  decided  to  go  along  the  nortli 
coast  of  New  Britain  and  arrive  at  our  destination  by  tliat  ronte.  For  a 
day  all  went  'well,  as  our  previously  fonl  wind,  by  our  altemtion  of 
conrae,  became  a  fair  one*  But  wlieu  yve  had  rtrn  some  hundred  miles 
from  the  coai^t  of  New  Guinea  the  wind  gradually  died  away,  and  we 
found  oursui yes  drifting  helplessly  among  reefs  and  islands  innumerable. 
Mauy  of  them  were  not  marked  at  all  on  the  chart,  and  all  of  them 
that  were,  were  more  or  lens  out  of  position.  For  four  days  we  had  to 
tow  the  ship — luckily  a  small  schounei— with  our  two  whale-boats, 
and  very  glad  indeed  wo  were  when  a  faint  northerly  breeze,  just 
sufficient  to  fill  our  saLLa,  gave  us  steerage-way  in  the  direction  in 
which  we  wished  to  gri. 

The  observations  of  the  few  people  who  have  sailed  those  seas — 
whalers  for  the  most  partr,  and  captains  of  simill  schooners  fitted  out  on 
gptfcnlative  trading  expeditions- — have  been  verj'  incorrect^  and  more 
harm  is  done  by  placing  a  shoal  or  reef  incorrectly  on  the  chart  than  by 
omitting  to  place  it  there  at  alL  As  far  as  my  obser^'ations  of  the  north 
coast  of  New  Britain  went,  1  should  say  it  was  very  thinly  inhabited.  I 
pei*sonally  saw  no  signs  of  life  an^^ whore,  but  it  is  too  much  to  suppose 
that  a  seaboard  of  some  two  hundred  miles  in  length  should  be  absolutely 
nninhabited.  How  far  the  natives  on  the  south  coast  may  be  relied  on 
I  cannot  say,  but  I  have  l)een  told  by  them  that  the  north  coast  is  only 
occasionally  visited  by  wandering  tribes.  As  far  as  I  know,  there  are 
not  sufficient  data  in  our  possession  to  enable  us  to  form  an}*^  estimate 
of  the  population  of  Now  Britain,  Roughly  speaking,  the  population 
might  foe  placed  at  100,000  souls,  while  the  New  Ireland  communities 
might  perhaps  muster  half  that  number.  There  seems  to  foe  no  doubt 
that  in  the  little-known  districts  in  the  western  half  of  the  island  the 
population  is  more  numerous  than  iu  the  eastern  end. 

I  have  coasted,  contrary  to  my  inclinations,  and  by  force  of  circum- 
stances, a  great  part  of  its  south  coast,  and  the  evidences  of  abundant 
population  were  everywhere  visible.  Smoke  could  be  seen  rising  in 
eveiy  direction,  villages  could  bo  occasionally  seen,  and  the  coast  is 
abundantly  lined  wath  coco-nut  jmlms,  a  sure  sign  of  douse  population. 
In  these  island  communities  there  is  no  better  rule  to  be  guided  by,  for 
the  purpose  of  ascertaining  the  denseness  of  the  coaat  population  than 
by  carefully  noting  the  approximate  number  of  coco-nut  trees,  I 
believe,  if  it  could  be  proved,  that  roughly  about  twenty  coco-nut  trees 
to  every  head  of  population  would  give  a  fairly  accurate  result.  In  New 
Ireland,  the  north-western  half  of  the  island  is  abundantly  lined  with 
coco-nuts,  and  it  is  certainly  in  that  part  of  the  island  that  four- fifths 
of  the  population  is  to  be  found. 

Before  I  proceed  to  give  a  slight  account  of  the  natives  of  this  group, 
a  few  words  about  the  appearance  of  New  Ireland  may  be  of  interest. 


THE  ISLANDS  OF  THE  NEW  BRITAIN  GROUP.  7 

New  Ireland  presents  many  distinct  features  from  New  Britain.  In  New 
Ireland  there  is  presumably  as  Heavy  a  rainfall  as  in  New  Britain,  but 
while  there  are  numerous  small  rivers  in  the  latter  island,  in  the 
former,  as  far  as  I  could  discover,  there  are  none  worthy  of  that  name. 
A  few  small  creeks  and  watercourses  there  may  be  on  the  mountain 
sides,  but  there  is  no  visible  escape  for  the  enormous  amount  of  rain 
which  falls  in  the  course  of  the  year.  It  seems  unlikely  that  there  can 
be  lakes  of  any  great  size,  as  the  configuration  of  the  country  renders 
any  such  idea  improbable. 

The  island  is  long  and  very  narrow,  that  is  to  say,  its  extreme 
width  in  any  place  is  not  more  than  30  miles,  while  its  average  width 
is  from  10  to  15.  A  chain  of  mountains  runs  directly  up  its  centre 
which  varies  from  two  to  six  thousand  feet  in  height,  so  that  it  will  be 
aeen  that  the  ground  must  everywhere  rise  very  steeply  from  the  sea. 

In  heavy  rains  there  must  be  mountain  torrents,  but  I  have  coasted 
the  whole  island  round,  in  fair  and  foul  weather,  and  never  seen  any- 
thing like  a  river  discharging  itself  into  the  sea.  On  the  north  coast,  it 
will  be  seen  in  the  map,  that  there  are  several  islands  placed.  At  the 
time  of  my  last  visit,  as  far  as  I  know,  they  had  never  been  visited.  It 
is  most  unlikely,  however,  that  that  is  the  case  now.  The  island 
marked  as  Fischer  Island,  I  ascertained,  was  in  reality  three  distinct 
islands,  while  Gerrit  Denys  is  certainly  two,  and  perhaps  more. 

It  was  supposed  on  the  occasion  of  my  first  visit,  that  New  Ireland 
was  entirely  deficient  in  good  harbours.  Since  that  time  some  excellent 
harbours,  protected  from  all  quarters,  and  large  enough  to  accommodate 
a  fleet  of  ships,  have  been  discovered  at  the  north-western  end,  between 
New  Ireland  and  New  Hanover.  As  I  said  before,  that  end  of  the  island 
is  also  the  richest,  and  the  Oermans  have  taken  advantage  of  their  new 
discovery  to  station  traders  there.  Their  relations  with  the  natives  are 
not  always  friendly.  Some  have  been  killed^  and  many  have  been  driven 
away,  barely  saving  their  lives. 

I  believe  that  at  the  present  time  no  traders  have  been  established  in 
New  Hanover,  the  large  island  to  the  north-west  of  New  Ireland. 
While  I  was  in  New  Ireland  the  natives  of  New  Hanover  showed 
themselves  most  uncompromisingly  hostile  to  me,  and  though  I  tried 
often  to  land  there,  I  never  succeeded  in  doing  so. 

The  channel  between  the  two  islands  is  a  network  of  reefs,  and  in 
spite  of  all  my  efforts  I  never  succeeded  in  penetrating  them.  There 
were  plenty  of  canoe  and  no  doubt  boat  passages  from  one  island  to  the 
other,  for  constantly  while  my  schooner  was  anchored  at  Neusa,  the  name 
of  the  northern  harbour  in  New  Ireland,  canoes  would  come  across  from 
New  Hanover,  and  keeping  at  a  respectful  distance  from  the  ship, 
insult  us  with  awful  threats  of  what  they  would  do  if  they  ever  got  us 
in  their  power.  In  appearance,  New  Hanover  is  far  more  inviting  than 
New  Ireland.     The  mountains  are  high  in  the  interior,  but  the  land 


8  THE  ISLANDS  OF  THE  NEW  BRITAIN  GROUP. 

slopes  gradually  to  them,  and  there  are  evidently  many  rivers,  fertile 
valleys,  and  wide-spreading  plains  covered  with  the  wild  sugar-cane 
which  always  denotes  the  richest  soil.  Doubtless  from  the  north  it  is 
more  easy  of  access,  but  I  never  had  the  opportunity  of  visiting  it  from 
that  quarter. 

Having  now  touched  lightly  on  some  of  the  more  noticeable  geogra- 
phical peculiarities  of  the  New  Britain  group,  it  may  be  of  interest  to 
touch  equally  lightly  on  some  of  the  peculiar  habits  of  its  inhabitants. 
The  ethnologist  would  find  abundant  material  there  for  observation 
and  reflection,  but  it  would  be  out  of  place  in  this  paper  to  indulge  in 
an  ethnological  dissertation  on  the  races  which  inhabit  these  *  three 
large  islands.  Of  thej  largest  of  them.  New  Britain,  we  know  a  good 
deal,  of  New  Ireland  and  its  people  we  know  a  little,  while  of  New 
Hanover — possibly  the  most  interesting  of  all,  on  the  principle  of"  Omne 
ignotum  pro  magniflco  " — we  know  next  to  nothing  at  all.  To  begin 
with  New  Britain.  There  are  three  subjects  which  appear  to  interest 
the  students  of  savage  races  more  than  any  others.  Firstly,  their  laws 
and  ceremonies  of  marriage,  rights  of  succession  to  property  on  account 
of  such  marriages,  and  degrees  of  relationship  resulting  from  them,  and 
the  manner  in  which  their  relations  by  marriage  should  be  treated  or 
ignored.  Secondly,  their  superstitions  and  the  ceremonies  which  attend 
them  ;  and,  thirdly ,the  social  laws  by  which  they  are  governed  and  which 
control  them  as  to  their  determination  to  go  to  war  with  their  neigh- 
bours. Under  this  last  heading  also  would  come  the  rights  of  property 
and  the  manner  iu  which  it  is  held,  a  very  comprehensive  subject,  which 
the  limits  of  this  paper  will  only  permit  me  to  touch  on  lightly.  It  is 
obvious  that  these  are  subjects  which  cannot  be  completely  mastered  by 
any  one  whose  residence  in  the  country  has  not  been  of  considerable 
duration.  The  native,  as  a  rule,  does  not  like  to  be  questioned. 
He  credits  the  white  man  with  possessing  universal  knowledge, 
and  often  imagines  he  is  being  made  a  fool  of,  and  will  return  evasive 
or  untrue  answers.  In  questioning  them  about  their  superstitions 
they  usually  show  the  greatest  reluctance  to  answer. 

In  New  Britain  there  are  some  customs  they  are  absolutely  forbidden 
to  talk  of,  and  some  words  [they  dare  not  name.  It  is  evident,  there- 
fore, that  the  investigator  has  to  rely  principally  on  his  own  powers  of 
observation,  as  he  cannot  get  much  reliable  information  on  many  points 
from  the  natives  by  word  of  mouth. 

To  begin  with  the  marriage  laws.  The  parents  of  a  child  betroth 
him  or  her  usually  at  a  very  early  age.  If  it  is  a  boy  he  has  got  to 
work  for  and  pay  for  his  wife  before  he  can  marry  her,  and  the  sum  to 
be  paid  is  agreed  on,  having  due  consideration  for  the  means  of  the 
betrothed.  The  sum  is  never  fixed  at  too  low  a  price,  and  it  constantly 
happens  that  the  intended  husband  is  middle-aged  before  he  can  marry. 
Sometimes  he  gets  impatient  and  persuades  his  betrothed  to  elope  with 


THE  ISLANDS  OF  THE  NEW  BRITAIN  GROUP.  9 

him,  but  he  dare  not  return  to  his  tribe  if  he  takes  so  extreme  a  step  as 
this.  Usnally  when  the  price  stipulated  on  is  nearly  paid,  the  husband 
builds  a  small  house  in  the  bush  at  some  distance  from  his  village.  He 
then  persuades  his  fiancee  to  elope  with  him,  but  this  time  with  the 
knowledge  of  her  parents.  A  complete  farce  is  then  acted.  When  they 
have  had  time  to  get  well  away,  the  girFs  father  discovers  that  she  has 
been  abducted,  the  bridegroom's  father  pretends  to  sympathise  with  him 
and  vows  vengeance  against  his  son  for  disgracing  him.  They  waste 
more  time  in  assembling  the  relatives  on  either  side  and  preparing  a 
big  feast  together.  The  whole  conversation  consists  of  threats  against 
their  unnatural  offspring.  When  they  have  finished  their  feast  they 
arm  and  paint  themselves  as  if  for  war,  and  off  they  sally  into  the  bush 
in  search  of  the  absconding  couple.  They  know  exactly  were  to  go, 
however,  which  simplifies  matters  a  good  deal,  as  they  have  had  precise 
information  as  to  where  the  little  house  in  the  bush  has  been  built. 
When  they  arrive  there  they  find  the  couple  gone.  They  would 
probably  be  very  much  at  a  loss  what  to  do  if  they  had  not  gone.  They 
bum  the  house,  however,  and  return  home  where  they  consume  more 
food.  In  the  morning  the  yoang  couple  are  back  in  the  village  as  if 
nothing  had  happened,  and  no  further  notice  is  taken  of  them.  The 
price  originally  fixed  as  the  price  of  the  girl  has,  however,  to  be 
eventually  paid. 

It  is  the  habit  as  far  as  possible  to  betroth  children  to  other  children 
belonging  to  the  same  tribe,  and  as  many  of  the  tribes  are  very  small, 
it  is  not  a  habit  which  tends  to  improve  the  race.  As  far  as  I  have  been 
able  to  ascertain,  they  do  not  recognise  the  relationship  of  first  cousins. 
In  fact  in  a  small  tribe  nearly  all  the  members  of  it  must  be  cousins  to 
each  other. 

I  have  observed  in  parts  of  New  Britain,  perhaps  it  is  universal,  that 
brothers  seem  to  have  common  interests.  One  brother  often  helps  to 
pay  for  his  brother's  wife,  and  if  he  died  or  was  killed  would  probably 
take  her  into  his  house  to  live  with  his  other  wife  or  wives.  She  would 
in  every  sense  belong  to  him,  and  her  social  position  would  be  as  secure 
as  formerly. 

There  is  one  curious  bond  of  sympathy  between  these  people  and 
their  civilised  brethren.  It  is  doubtless  a  prejudice  in  civilisation, 
and  admits  of  exceptions.  Among  the  New  Britons  it  admits  of  no 
exceptions,  and  is  as  stem  a  law  as  those  of  the  Medes  and  Persians.  A 
man  must  not  speak  to  his  mother-in-law.  He  not  only  must  not  speak 
to  her,  he  must  avoid  her  if  ho  possibly  can ;  he  must  walk  miles  out  of 
his  way  to  avoid  her  path ;  if  ho  meets  her  suddenly  he  must  hide,  or  if 
he  has  no  time  to  hide  his  body  he  must  hide  his  face.  What  calamities 
would  result  from  a  man  accidentally  speaking  to  his  mother-in-law,  no 
native  imagination  has  yet  been  found  equal  to  conceive.  Suicide  of 
one  or  both  would  probably  be  the  only  course.     There  is  no  reason 


10 


THE  ISLANDS  OF  THE  NEW  BRITAIN  GROUP. 


that  th©  woman  should  not  speak  to  her  father-in-law,  but  for  the 
mother-io-law  there  is  no  mercy*  She  muflt,  in  the  ordinaiy  course 
of  events,  in  native  communities,  eventnallj  liecome  a  mother- 
in-law,  but  she  is  powerless  to  struggle  against  fate,  and  I  for  one 
have  never  seen  her  make  anj  effort  to  tlo  so.  It  would  take  too 
long  to  discuss  the  subject  of  BucccBsion  of  property.  It  is  enough 
to  say  that  the  mother's  property,  if  she  have  any,  may  descend  accord- 
ing to  circumst-ances  to  her  daughter  or  her  son,  or  go  to  neither,  and 
tlie  fathers  may  be  disposed  of  in  the  same  impartial  way.  There  are 
tribal  rights,  family,  and  individual  rights  to  be  oonsiderod,  and  there- 
fore the  question  becomes  a  somewhat  complicated  one. 

One  curious  feature  in  the  New  Britain  marriages,  and  one  I  should 
think  most  galling  to  the  hueband,  is  that  oecasionally,  after  he  has 
worked  for  years  to  pay  for  his  wife,  and  is  finally  in  a  position  to 
take  her  to  his  house,  she  refuses  to  go.  Human  nature,  I  suppose,  is 
the  same  all  over  the  world,  but  engagements  are  longer  in  New  Britain 
than  in  more  civilised  countries,  and  the  disappointment  is  proportion- 
ately greater.  Oddly  enough,  he  is  not  supposed  to  have  a  grievance^ 
nor  can  he  claim  back  from  her  parents  the  vast  eums  he  has  paid  them 
in  yams,  coco-nuta,  and  sugar-canes.  He  certainly  would  have  the 
right  of  killing  any  one  who  presumed  to  elope  with  the  woman  he  had 
worked  for  so  loug  ;  but  she  seldom  plays  her  cards  so  badly  as  to  com- 
promise herself  in  a  public  manner.  He  has  to  submit,  and  no  one 
pities  him.  It  is  the  custom  of  the  country,  and  no  doubt  he  submits 
to  it  with  the  best  grace  he  ca,n. 

It  is  difficult  to  say  whether  they  have  any  actual  religion.  Super- 
stitions they  have  in  plenty,  and  they  believe  in  malignant  epirita^  but 
not  in  beneficent  ones.  The  malignant  spirit  has,  on  many  occasions^ 
to  be  propitiated  with  gifts*  There  are  men  who  aro  sorcerers  by  trade, 
and  they  exert  an  immense  influence  in  their  tribes,  and  not  unfro- 
(juently  amass  considerable  fortunes.  The  devices  they  employ  for  im- 
posing on  their  neighbours  bear  a  strange  similarity  to  some  of  those 
iised  by  the  witches  of  old  in  our  own  country.  Figures  of  challc  or 
stalactite,  or  even  stone,  could  be  bought  and  buried  in  the  bush»  and  the 
man  in  whose  likeness  they  had  been  carved,  was  pretty  eure  to  die 
very  soon  afterwards,  'J'he  natives  have  often  pointed  out  to  me 
epofs  in  the  jungle  where  some  of  these  images  had  been  buried, 
but  they  would  never  help  me  to  look  for  them.  I  found  three  or  four 
with  great  difficulty,  and  tho  natives  would  run  shrieking  from 
mo  if  they  saw  me  carrying  them  home.  It  was  impossible  for  mo 
to  keep  them  in  my  house,  as  no  native  would  work  for  me  whOo  they 
were  in  my  possession.  I  therefore  pretended  to  destroy  them,  and  had 
them  buried  behind  my  house  till  I  could  take  them  safely  out  of  the 
country.  The  native  is  veiy  careful  to  destroy  the  remnants  of  his 
meals.      Things  lik©  banana  skins,  fish-bones,  <fec.,   aro   burnt,  as  ho 


THE  ISLANDS  OF  THE  NEW  BRITAIN  GROUP.  11 

imagines  that  if  an  enemy  of  his  were  to  steal  and  bury  them,  he 
would  shortly  sicken  and  die.  Numerous  other  superstitions  they  have, 
but  the  most  remarkable  one  of  all  I  will  describe  briefly. 

Visitors  to  New  Britain,  who  have  seen  the  ceremony  of  the  duk- 
duk  as  it  is  called,  have  not  always  agreed  as  to  its  exact  significance. 
It  is  a  very  difficult  matter  to  get  natives  to  speak  of  it  at  all,  as  they 
imagine  that  by  doing  so  to  a  man  who  is  not  duk-duk,  that  is  to  say, 
initiated  into  the  mysteries  of  this  superstitious  rite,  they  will  forfeit 
the  good  will  of  the  restless  spirit  they  fear  so  much.  I  will  describe 
how  I  first  saw  a  duk-duk  in  New  Britain,  and  give  my  idea  as  to 
the  meaning  of  the  performances  it  went  through.  It  is  supposed 
to  be  a  spirit  which  makes  its  appearance  at  daybreak  of  the  day  on 
which  the  new  moon  appears.  It  invariably  comes  from  the  sea,  and 
as  soon  as  there  is  sufficient  daylight  for  the  purpose,  two  or  three 
canoes  lashed  together,  and  having  a  square  platform  built  over  them, 
are  seen  slowly  advancing  towards  the  beach.  The  whole  community 
is  drawn  up  to  receive  them,  and  they  sit  in  solemn  silence,  waiting  for 
the  moment  when  the  canoes  shall  touch  the  beach.  On  the  platform  of 
the  canoe  are  two  figures  leaping  and  gesticulating  violently,  and 
uttering  short  shrill  cries.  They  are  covered  with  a  loosely  made  robe 
or  tunic  made  of  the  leaves  of  the  hibiscus  woven  together.  On  their 
heads  they  wear  a  conical-shaped  hat  some  six  feet  in  height  which 
completely  conceals  the  features.  On  it  is  painted  a  most  grotesque 
human  face.  Nothing  can  be  seen  of  the  man  inside  this  dress  but  the 
l^s  from  the  knee  downwards. 

The  dress  is  supposed  to  be  an  imitation  of  a  cassowary  with  a 
human  head.  When  the  two  figures  land  they  execute  a  little  dance 
together,  and  run  about  the  beach  with  a  short  hopping  step,  still 
keeping  up  the  imitations  of  the  cassowary.  Not  a  native  stirs  or  utters 
a  sound,  they  appear  to  be  very  much  frightened  and  there  is  a  very 
nervous  look  on  their  faces.  The  duk-duk  is  to  stay  with  them  nearly 
a  fortnight,  and  during  that  period  he  is  absolutely  at  liberty  to  do  what- 
ever he  pleases.  No  woman  is  allowed  to  look  on  him,  in  fact  the 
women  have  long  ago  disappeared  and  are  all  hidden  in  the  bush.  After 
a  time  the  duk-duk  dances  off  into  the  jungle,  and  the  natives  get  up  and 
move  off  slowly  to  the  village.  The  same  evening  an  immense  quantity  of 
food  is  brought  in,  and  piled  in  the  centre  of  the  square  in  the  village.  As 
each  man  brings  his  contribution  the  duk-duk  dances  round  him ;  if  he 
is  satisfied  he  utters  his  shrill  yelp,  and  if  ho  is  displeased  he  deals  the 
wretched  man  a  tremendous  blow  with  a  club.  However,  nearly  every- 
one brought  sufficient  food  when  I  saw  the  ceremony,  and  very  few  re- 
ceived the  blow  with  the  club.  This  done,  the  men  all  squatted  in  a 
circle  in  the  square,  and  then  began  what  could  have  been  nothing  but  a 
ceremony  of  initiation.  A  large  bundle  of  stout  canes  was  brought,  each 
one  being  six  feet  long,  and  as  thick  as  a  man's  little  finger.    No  sooner 


12 


THi:  ISLANDS  OF  THE  NEW  BRITAIN  GROUP, 


was  this  done,  than  five  or  six  yoting  raen  jumped  tip,  and  holding  their 
arma  high  above  their  heads,  received  a  trenienduua  blow  apieco  from 
the  duk-diik.  The  caoe  curled  round  their  bodies  with  a  loud  crack,  and 
drew  blood  at  every  stroke.  But  in  no  case  did  I  see  a  sign  of  iiinching 
or  pain.  Immediately  their  places  wcro  taken  by  other  young  men^  and 
at  the  end  of  the  performance,  each  man  standing  up  in  succession  had 
received  six  or  seven  tremendous  blows.  For  about  ten  days  the  same 
thing  was  repeated,  and  the  yonng  men  who  were  {qualifying  themselves 
to  be  admitted  into  the  mysteries  of  the  duk-dnk  must  have  been  truly 
glad  when  those  spirits  left  them  in  jjeace.  The  performance  was  varied 
occasionally  by  the  duk-duk  taking  a  club  and  giving  the  unfortunate 
neophyte  a  ti-emendous  blow  in  the  back.  It  was  considered  the  right 
thing  to  throw  something  down  in  the  path  of  the  duk-duk»  if  one 
met  him  accidentally,  so  I  invariably  carried  a  supply  of  tobacco  in  my 
pockets  while  we  entertained  these  visitors,  as  they  had  a  most  dis- 
agreeable habit  of  popping  out  suddenly  upon  you  from  the  bush  and 
dancing  round  you, 

I  believe  the  origin  and  meaning  of  the  whole  performance  to  bo  this. 
It  is  interjded  to  be  a  power  held  over  the  young  men  by  the  old  ones. 
The  duk-duk  is  always  said  to  belong  to  souie  old  man  who  lias  sum* 
moned  it  from  the  sea.  In  a  country  where  the  chiefs  of  tribes  have 
little  or  no  authority  the  young  men  want  a  great  deal  of  keeping  in 
order.  They  are  carefully  kept  in  ignorance  of  all  the  mysteries  of  the 
duk-duk.  They  do  not  know  who  is  actually  dancing  in  the  dre^g,  but 
they  do  know  that  they  may  be  killed  by  him  if  the  old  men  have 
ordered  it  80»  and  no  one  would  interfere  to  prevent  it.  Again,  the  old 
men  to  whom  the  spirit  belongs  get  an  immense  quantity  of  food  con* 
tributed  to  them,  and  this  is  a  matter  of  importance,  ai  when  they 
become  too  old  to  work  in  their  gardens  they  are  likely  to  fare  badly. 

In  Now  Guinea  there  exists  a  8imilar  custom,  different  only  in  a  few 
unimportant  details.  I  often  had  considerable  difficulty  in  getting  a 
boat's  crew  to  go  up  and  do%vn  the  coast  wnth  nie^  as  it  was  always 
necessary  for  me  to  get  men  w^ho  knew  the  proprietors  of  duk-duks  at 
the  different  places  we  were  to  visit.  In  New  Britain  and  New  Ireland 
the  people  are  warlike,  hut  tbey  are  fonder  of  killing  their  enemies  by 
cunning  and  treachery  than  of  meeting  them  in  the  open  field.  For  this 
reason  it  is  imprudent  to  allow  natives  to  walk  behind  you,  unless  you 
are  in  a  place  where  you  know  them  well,  and  can  trust  them. 

I  did,  however,  on  one  occasion  see  a  very  big  native  battle,  in  which 
the  attacking  force  must  have  numbered  nearly  one  thousand  men.  The 
tribe  with  whom  I  was  then  staying  was  also  in  unusually  strong  force^ 
or  else  I  am  afraid  they  would  have  fared  badly.  They  had  sent  for  all 
their  friends  to  meet  me,  and  the  result  was  that  they  outnumbered  the 
attackiug  force,  and  inflicted  on  them  a  crushing  defeat. 

All,  or  nearly  all  the  canoes  in  which  they  had  come  were  seized, 


THE  ISLANDS  OF  THE  NEW  BRITAIN  GROUP.  13 

the  enemy  was  driven  along  the  beach  for  15  or  20. miles,  and  many  of 
them  were  killed  and  subsequently  eaten.  It  would  take  too  long  to 
describe  the  battle.  As  in  the  case  formerly  of  the  Fijian  battles  the 
combatants  had  to  work  themselves  up  to  the  requisite  amount  of  fury 
by  insulting  each  other,  dancing  in  front  of  their  ranks  and  boasting  of 
the  deeds  they  were  prepared  to  accomplish.  The  women  and  children 
accompanied  their  fighting  men  into  battle,  and  took  up  a  position  in 
the  rear  of  their  army.  Whenever  one  of  the  enemy  was  killed,  his 
body  was  passed  back  to  the  women  and  was  by  them  conveyed  to  some 
village  to  await  the  return  of  their  Iprds  and  masters.  I  was,  I  imagine, 
exceptionally  fortunate  in  being  a  witness  of  this  battle.  The  enemy 
had  evidently  been  preparing  for  it  for  years,  their  canoes  were  new, 
and  no  doubt  they  supposed  that  they  would  inflict  on  my  friends  a 
crushing  defeat.  They  could  not  have  known  that  I  and  my  little 
party  were  staying  where  we  were,  or  that  they  would  find  the  tribe 
in  such  strong  force.  Of  course  I  did  not  allow  my  boat's  crew  of 
&lomon  Islanders  who  accompanied  me,  and  were  armed  with  rifles,  to 
take  any  part  in  the  fight. 

As  I  have  alluded  to  the  fact  of  the  men  who  were  killed  being  eaten 
afterwards,  I  may  as  well  say  here  a  few  words  on  the  subject  of 
cannibalism,  both  in  New  Britain  and  New  Ireland. 

Cannibalism  is  at  the  present  day  a  far  more  common  thing  than  it  is 
generally  supposed  to  be.  On  the  other  hand,  people  talk  very  loosely 
about  it,  and  many  tribes,  especially  in  New  Guinea,  are  supposed  to 
practise  it  who  have  never  done  so.  I  cannot  absolutely  say  from  my 
own  knowledge  that  the  natives  of  New  Britain  are  cannibals,  though  I 
have  every  reason  to  suppose  they  are.  If  you  ask  a  man  point-blank, 
as  I  have  often  done,  if  he  has  ever  helped  to  eat  any  one,  he  will  deny 
it  for  himself,  but  say  that  so-and-so  did. 

They  usually  appear  to  be  very  much  ashamed  of  the  practice.  That 
this  is  not  always  the  case,  however,  I  will  presently  show.  Some  eight 
years  ago  in  Fiji,  the  Governor,  Sir  Arthur  Gordon,  was  paying  a  visit  to 
a  mountain  chief,  who  had  recently  been  reconciled  to  the  British  occupa- 
tion and  government.  The  conversation  turned  on  cannibalism,  and 
the  impression  that  he  tried  to  give  us  was,  that  he  had  heard  of  such  a 
custom,  but  that  none  of  his  people  had  ever  been  guilty  of  it. 

A  missionary  had  some  time  previous  to  our  visit  been  murdered  in 
the  very  district  in  which  we  were,  and  had  undoubtedly  been  eaten, 
and  parts  of  his  body  had  been  sent  by  our  host  to  friends  of  his 
belonging  to  other  tribes.  He  admitted  that  he  had  been  eaten,  by 
whom  he  said  he  did  not  know ;  for  his  part,  he  said,  the  idea  of  eating 
white  man  was  extremely  repulsive  to  him,  as  they  smoked  strong 
tobacco  and  drank  whisky.  On  this  an  old  man  in  the  crowd,  forgetting 
his  manners  and  duty  to  his  chief,  sprang  up  and  said,  '<  It  is  a  lie ;  he 
was  as  good  as  any  one  else,  and  you  know  it."     His  feelings  had 


14 


THE  ISLAKDS  OF  THE  NEW  BRITAm  GROUP. 


carried  Hm  away  to  such  an  extent  that  he  at  all  events  admitted  having 
Lolped  to  eat  %%^hite  man. 

In  New  Ireland,  where  immediately  after  the  fight  I  have  alluded 
to  I  saw  them  eat  the  men  who  had  fallen,  there  appeared  to  be  no 
shame  and  no  pretence  of  concealment.  They  did  it,  they  said,  because 
they  liked  it,  and  they  had  no  objection  whatever  to  my  hoing  a  witness 
of  their  proceedings-  I  am  aware  that  to  most  people  it  must  be  an 
unpleasant  subject,  bnt  I  think  I  may  venture  to  describe  soMo  of  the 
incidents  which  occurred  on  the  occasion  to  which  I  refer. 

The  bodies  having  been  huug  up  by  the  necks  till  the  return  of  the 
warriors,  are  scalded  with  boiling  water  and  scraped  with  the  sharp 
bamboo  knife  of  the  country*  During  this  operation,  which  is  per- 
formed by  the  old  women,  the  former  merits  and  accomplishments  of 
each  one  are  discussed  with  jokes  and  roars  of  laughter.  This  finished, 
they  are  taken  down  and  laid  on  mats.  In  the  village  in  which  I  was 
watching  the  proceedings^  there  were  six  bodies  to  be  operated  on. 
They  were  cut  up  by  a  very  old  man  who  kept  up  an  incessant  chatter 
while  he  performed  his  duty.  Certain  parte  were  kept,  the  thigh  and 
shiD  bones  for  instance,  and  were  no  doubt  intended  to  serve  as  spear- 
handles  at  a  later  date.  Each  portion  was  wrapped  in  many  envelopes 
of  stout  leaves  by  the  women,  and  when  ail  the  bodies  bad  been 
cut  up  they  w^ere  placed  in  the  ovens  which  bad  been  previously 
prepared  for  their  reception.  The  process  of  cooking  took  nearly  four 
days,  and  during  that  time  the  w^ildest  dances  and  feasting  im.aginable 
went  on.  The  heads,  however,  were  reserved  for  a  special  purjTose,  The 
natives  of  New  Ireland  eat  a  preparation  of  sago  and  coco-nut  called 
sak-sak.  The  brains  of  these  unfortunate  men  were  to  be  added  as  jjk 
third  ingredient.  I  used  to  buy  eak-eak  daily  for  my  Solomon  Island 
crew,  but  it  is  needless  to  say  that  for  the  remainder  of  my  stay  in 
New  Ireland  I  did  not  do  so.  I  have  no  doubt  in  my  mind,  however, 
that  my  boat's  crew  possessed  themselves  of  some  of  this  disgusting 
mixture  and  ate  it.  It  is  impossible  to  describe  more  than  the  most 
noticeable  features  of  this  banquet.  The  details  were  intensely  horrid 
and  disgusting,  and  the  women  peemed  to  me  to  be  more  brutal  and 
Bavage  than  the  men.  Though  I  did  not  remain  with  them  absolutely 
to  the  end  of  the  business,  I  was  told  that  for  many  days  afterwards  the 
natives  do  not  wash  at  all,  as  they  try  to  imagine  that  some  trace  of  their 
disgusting  meal  will  cling  to  them. 

The  trade  of  these  islands  is  principally  carried  on  between  the 
coast  natives  and  those  who  livo  in  the  interior.  The  coast 
natives  exchange  salt  for  the  food  which  the  bush  natives  cultivate. 
There  are  certain  well-kno\\Ti  market-places  where  they  constantly 
meet,  and  their  negotiations  with  each  other  not  unfrequently  end  in  a 
fight.  The  trade  with  the  whites  is  principally  in  coco-nuts.  "When  I 
was  there  twenty  coco^nuts  could  he  bought  for  one  stick  of  tobacco. 


THE  ISLANDS  OF  THE  NEW  BRITAIN  GROUP.— DISCUSSION.  16 

One  stick  of  tobacco  represented  the  twentieth  part  of  a  shilling,  there- 
fore four  hundred  coco-nuts  could  be  bought  for  a  shilling.  The  kernel 
of  the  nut  cut  up  and  dried  in  the  sun  makes  a  very  valuable  article  of 
commerce  called  copra.  It  is  used  for  making  candles,  and  the  refuse 
makes  excellent  cake  for  cattle.  It  takes  about  7000  ordinary  nuts  to 
supply  one  ton  of  copra.  In  those  days  a  ton  would  have  cost  on  the 
spot  about  3Z.,  and  as  its  market  value  in  Europe  was  from  162.  to  20/., 
the  trade  was  a  profitable  one.  These  prices,  of  course,  do  not  exist 
now,  but  I  have  no  doubt  the  trade  still  continues  to  pay.  Tortoise- 
shell  is  bought  in  considerable  quantities  from  the  natives,  also  pearl- 
shell  of  an  inferior  quality,  and  b§che-de-mer.  Beche-de-mer  is  a  large 
salt-water  slug  which  inhabits  the  coral  reefs.  It  is  split  open,  boiled, 
and  smoked,  and  when  thus  prepared  is  worth  from  50Z.  to  120Z.  a  ton 
in  the  Chinese  market. 

Between  white  men  and  natives,  tobacco  is  the  only  money  employed. 
Between  the  natives  themselves  a  shell  money  is  used,  called  by  them 
de-warra.  The  de-warra  is  a  very  diminutive  cowry,  and  the  money  is 
supposed  to  come  from  the  northern  end  of  New  Britain.  Hundreds  of 
these  little  shells  are  threaded  on  immensely  long  strips  of  split  cane. 
A  fathom  of  de-warra  may  possibly  be  taken  as  the  legitimate  tender, 
that  is  to  say,  a  piece  of  de-warra  is  broken  off  of  the  length  of  the 
extreme  stretch  of  a  man's  arms  extended.  Seven  fathoms  would  formerly 
purchase  a  good  pig,  and  I  have  heard  of  cases  where  a  man's  death 
could  be  compassed  for  the  same  amount.  Such  is  the  value  of  human 
life  in  New  Britain. 

In  conclusion,  I  will  say  that  I  consider  the  country  to  be  one  suited 
to  white  colonisation.  It  presents  the  richest  soil,  a  climate  no  worse 
than  that  of  other  groups,  and  not  so  bad  as  that  of  New  Guinea, 
and  the  people,  though  undoubtedly  savage  and  suspicious,  can  easily  be 
managed  by  firmness,  and  consideration  for  their  habits  and  traditions. 
They  make  fairly  good  labourers  when  not  taken  away  from  their  own 
homes,  and  I  see  no  reason  why  the  extremes  of  savage  and  civilised 
life  should  not  meet  on.  amicable  terms  in  this  young  country.  The 
Germans,  to  whom  it  now  belongs,  have  a  most  responsible  duty  before 
them,  and  the  success  or  failure  of  this  young  colony  of  theirs  depends 
entirely  on  the  view  they  take  of  their  obligations  to  its  natural 
owners. 

Before  the  paper. 

The  Chaibman  (Sir  Hknby  Rawlinsok)  said  that  Mr.  Bomilly  had  been  for  six 
or  seven  years  in  the  Pacific  as  a  (Commissioner  on  behalf  of  the  British  Government, 
and  had  visited  faost  of  the  principal  islands.  He  had  also  written  a  book  which 
was  a  model  for  the  travellers  of  the  present  day,  being  both  amusing  and  in- 
stmctive.  After  Mr.  Romilly  had  read  his  paper  on  New  Britain,  the  meeting 
would  be  fiivoured  with  additional  remarks  by  a  gentleman  who  knew  probably 
more  of  the  geography  of  the  Western  Pacific  than  any  other  living  man,  the 
Bev.  George  Brown,  who  had  published  a  dictionary  and  grammar  of  the  language, 
and  who  would  answer  any  questions  on  the  subject. 


16 


THE  ISLAKDS  OF  THE  NEW  BRITAJN  GROUP.— DISCUSSION. 


After  tbe  pap<?r, 

The  Rev.  Geor«e  Bbown^  said  that  Ins  experitnce  of  New  Britain  and  New 
Irektjd  dated  from  the  year  1875^  when  he  landed  there  in  comixiEy  with  a  party  of 
Fijians  aBtl  Satuoans,  He  had  previously  s[)eiit  botweeti  fourteen  and  fifteen  years 
in  Samoa.  At  the  date  of  his  landuig  there  was  not  a  nin^le  white  nian  in  the 
group.  A  few  white  men  !md  previously  called  at  Port  Hunter,  but  there  was  no  one 
resident  there  at  the  time.  He  landed  on  Dake  of  York  Island,  and  had  explored  in 
ot>0&  boats  from  a  point  near  Cape  Or  ford  on  the  south-east  coast »  round  Cape 
Lambert  and  along  the  north-we»t  coast  to  the  '*  Father  and  Sous "  volcanoes 
opposite  to  the  I)ui>ortLul  lalatKla,  He  had  tilso  explored  the  whole  of  the  west 
coast  of  New  Ireland,  and  had  landed  at  New  Hanover  and  had  coiiimunicjitioQ 
with  the  natives.  There  were  not  many  places  in  the  South  Seas  of  which  so 
little  was  known  as  New  Britain,  Si>eaking  of  the  early  discoveries  Mr.  Brown  said 
that  the  Solomon  Group  was  discovered  by  the  Spfiniards,  under  Mendana,  in  1567. 
Mendana  made  las  second  voyage  to  Santa  Crua  in  1595  and  died  there.  The 
earliest  distinct  notice  of  the  discovery  of  any  of  the  New  Britain  islands  was  in 
the  account  of  Le  Maire  and  Schonten^s  voyages  in  16I6>  when  they  sighted  and 
named  St,  John's  Island  and  Fischer  s  Island,  and  so  must  of  course  have  also  seen 
the  mainland  of  New  Ireland,  In  1643,  Tasman  saw  Kt.  John's  Island,  Cape  8t, 
Maria,  and  discovered  Antliony  Kaana  and  Gerritt  Dcnys  Islands.  All  these 
navigators  thought  at  this  time  that  New  Ireland  and  New  Britain  formed  part  of 
the  mainland  of  New  Guinea.  This  was  first  disproved  by  Dumpier  in  1700,  who 
sailed  through  what  is  now  known  as  Dampier'a  Straits,  In  17*17,  Captain  Carteret 
was  drifted  by  strong  currents  u|>  Dampier's  Wide  Bay,  so  called,  and  found  it  to  be 
a  wide  open  channeL  Tnis  he  called  St.  George*s  Channel,  and  named  the  land  on  the 
east  side  New  Ireland.  He  had  landed  at  Fort  Carteret  and  had  taken  possession 
of  the  island  in  the  name  of  H.M.  George  III,  Bougainville  visited  the  same  place 
in  17G8.  Captain  Hunter  vi^iited  and  named  Port  Hunter,  Duke  of  York  Island,  in 
1701.  After  ibis  there  wjls  the  voyaije  of  the  CoquiUe  in  1823,  and  that  of  the 
Astrolabe  in  1827,  H.M.S,  Stdphur  in  1840,  and  H.M.S.  Bianche  about  1872.  On  a 
small  island  in  Blanche  Bay,  called  Hatupit^  or  Matupi,  some  months  before  he  (Mr. 
Brown)  landed  there  in  liJ75,  two  German  traders  had  landed,  but  after  remaining 
a  few  weeks  they  were  burnt  out  by  the  natives,  and  sliot  five  of  them  in  escaping  to 
tlifjir  boats*  That  was  the  bst  attempt  to  settle  in  New  Britain  previous  to  his 
landing.  He  (Mr.  Brown)  crossed  the  New  Ireland  range  at  an  altitude  of  3000  feet, 
and  went  down  to  the  opposite  coast.  One  of  his  experiences  was  a  very  suggestive 
one.  He  had  immense  difliculty  in  getting  any  natives  to  accompany  him  scroes  the 
range.  By  bribery  he  got  them  past  two  villa;j;es,  and  then  they  wanted  to  go  back. 
He  ttdd  them  they  ctvnld  go  if  they  liked.  They  replifed,  **  You  must  go  back  with 
us,"  but  this  he  refused  to  do,  and  they  dared  not  return  alone  as  they  were  afraid  of 
being  killed  to  make  a  meal  for  the  other  villagers  if  they  did  so,  and  so  ultimately , 
they  went  on.  One  of  the  houses  had  a  ridge  pole  some  ten  feet  high  with  the  roof 
coming  down  to  the  ground.  The  ridge  pole  was  covered  with  alligator  and  other 
bones,  while  the  brtttena  were  covered  with  jaw  bones  of  pigs.  On  one  f^articuIar 
batten  he  counted  tbirty-five  jaw  bones  of  people  who  had  been  eaten  in  that  house, 
some  black  with  smoke,  some  brown,  and  some  not  long  picked,  and  he  felt  thankful 
that  his  own  was  so  far  safe,  and  in  its  proper  position  and  place.  He  was  in  the 
neighbourhood  at  the  time  of  the  great  volcanic  eruption,  and  might  say  that  he 
had  landed  on  a  very  new  iiiland  indeed.  A  L<jndon  correspondent  of  the  Mel- 
bourne ArguSf  wishing  to  be  funny,  v\Tote  that  he  Imd  been  accustomed  to  sub- 
scribe to  a  library  of  fiction,  but  he  should  discontinue  to  do  so,  because  he  had 
read  in  a  scientific  paper  called  Nature,  that  the  water  in  a  certain  bay  in  New 


THE  ISLANDS  OF  THE  NEW  BRITAIN  GROUP.— DISCUSSION.  17 

Britain  became  so  hot  that  the  fish  came  up  already  cooked.  The  fact  was,  that 
though  the  bay  was  five  or  six  miles  across,  and  no  bottom  was  found  up  the 
centre  with  a  thirty-fathom  line  until  a  cablets  length  off  the  shore  was  reached,  no 
man  oouUl  bear  his  feet  in  the  water  for  ten  days  after  the  eruption,  and  the 
fish  came  up  overcooked.  Tortoiseshell  was  obtained  from  the  Hawksbill  turtle 
by  burning  the  fish  (which  accounted  for  the  marks  on  the  shell),  but  many 
turtle  had  been  so  much  cooked  that  the  shells  had  floated  away  from  them.  He 
had  many  times  sailed  over  the  very  spot  where  that  little  island  now  was.  When 
he  first  landed  on  it  the  soil  was  so  hot  that  no  native  could  stand  on  it.  There  was 
an  immense  crater  of  boiling  water,  and  he  wished  to  find  out  if  it  communicated 
with  the  sea.  The  whole  island  was  hissing  at  every  pore,  and  he  managed  to 
ascertain  that  the  centre  did  communicate  with  the  sea.  It  certainly  was  thrown  up 
from  the  bottom  of  the  sea  at  a  place  where  there  was  a  shallow  reef  at  the  time. 
Mr.  Romilly  had  mentioned  the  superstition  about  mothers-in-law,  but  he  ought  to 
have  stated  that  the  mother-in-law  was  quite  as  much  frightened  at  the  son-in-law. 
When  he  (Mr.  Brown)  was  translating  the  Gospel  of  St.  Mark,  he,  of  course,  had  to 
translate  the  passage  about  Herod  swearing  to  give  the  damsel  what  she  asked,  even 
to  the  half  of  his  kingdom,  and  he  had  to  investigate  the  question  of  the  natives*  idea 
of  an  oath,  and  he  found  that  the  most  solemn  oath  a  man  could  take  was,  *'  Sir,  if  I 
am  not  telling  the  truth  I  hope  I  may  shake  hands  with  (or  touch  the  hand  of)  my 
mother-in-law."  He  did  not  know  whether  Mr.  Romilly  had  travelled  up  the  west 
coast  of  New  Ireland,  but  there  were  some  very  large  rivers  there.  He  had  seen 
some  large  rivers,  such  as  the  Topaia,  which  gave  its  name  to  a  district,  and  indeed 
New  Ireland,  on  its  west  side,  was  one  of  the  best  watered  islands  in  the  world.  The 
rivers  partook  more  or  less  of  the  nature  of  mountain  torrents,  and  were  very  soon 
dried  up.  Mr.  Komilly  was  quite  correct  in  stating  that  six  feet  of  strung  shells  might 
be  taken  as  the  standard  of  value.  The  New  Ireland  money  was  measured  from 
breast  to  breast,  and  the  singular  thing  among  such  a  people  was  that  they  had 
words  for  "  buy  "  and  "  sell,"  and  "  borrow  "  and  "  lend,"  and  "  redeeming  "  a  pledge. 
They  also  lent  out  money  at  ten  per  cent  interest,  and  had  a  word  which  could  only 
be  translated  as  "  selling  off  at  a  sacrifice,"  or  *'  selling  under  cost  price."  The 
marriage  customs  differed,  but  as  a  general  rule  a  man  had  to  pay  for  his  wife.  In 
New  Britain  when  a  man  proposed  he  ran  away,  and  there  was  a  lot  of  crying  when 
they  were  betrothed,  as  though  they  were  ashamed  of  what  they  had  done.  He 
had  been  told  that  the  concluding  ceremony  in  one  district  was  this.  The  young 
couple  were  brought  together  in  the  square,  and  presents  were  made  by  the  married 
women  to  the  girl,  consisting  of  little  baskets,  digging  sticks,  &c.  Then  the  chief 
would  come  with  a  great  spear  and  point  in  one  direction,  and  spear  the  stem  of  a 
banana,  and  then  do  the  same  thing  in  another  direction,  and  so  on,  to  represent  the 
number  of  men  he  had  killed.  It  was  a  symbolical  way  of  narrating  his  deeds  of 
valour.  If  he  had  killed  a  man  with  a  tomahawk,  he  would  strike  with  his  tomahawk 
at  an  unfortunate  banana;  if  he  had  killed  him  with  a  spear  he  would  spear  the 
banana.  Of  course  he  was  paid  for  the  performance.  The  last  presents  were  made 
by  the  brother  or  father  to  the  young  man.  The  first  present  was  a  spear,  to  signify 
that  the  young  lady  was  committed  to  his  charge,  and  that  he  was  her  natural  pro- 
tector. Next,  they  gave  him  a  broom  to  give  to  his  wife,  as  a  symbol  of  her  domestic 
duties,  and  to  indicate  that  she  must  keep  the  house  clean.  Outside,  the  villages 
were  all  remarkably  clean.  The  third  present  to  the  bridegroom  was  a  small  sap- 
ling, with  which  he  was  to  beat  his  wife  if  she  did  not  attend  to  her  duties.  With 
regeml  to  the  duh-duk,  he  asked  what  was  the  meaning  of  the  tremendous  blows 
that  were  given,  and  he  was  told  that  those  who  were  struck  were  supposed  to  be 
killed.  Their  religion  was  that  of  all  primitive  peoples — that  the  dead  were  round 
No.  I.— Jan.  1887.]  c 


18  THE  ISLANDS  OF  THE  NEW  BRITAIN  GROUP.— DISCUSSION. 

and  about  them.  With  regard  to  cannibalism,  he  had  known  many  instances  of  it, 
and  was  once  at  a  place  where  the  natives  were  cooking  part  of  a  human  body  within 
a  few  yards  of  him,  but  he  did  not  know  it  at  the  time.  There  were,  however,  many 
who  never  tasted  human  flesh,  and  in  most  cases  the  eating  of  human  flesh  was  a 
religious  rite. 

Sir  Geobge  Bowen  congratulated  Mr.  Romilly  on  the  very  able  and  interesting 
paper  which  he  had  read.  He  himself  had  been  connected  with  Australasia  for 
20  years,  as  Governor  successively  of  Queensland,  New  Zealand,  and  Victoria,  and  of 
course  he  took  the  most  lively  interest  in  that  quarter  of  the  globe.  Mr.  Romilly 
had  done  good  work  in  the  islands  which  he  had  visited,  and  it  was  well  known  that 
he  could  also  write  good  descriptions  of  what  he  had  seen.  But  one  point  had  not 
been  alluded  to  in  the  paper,  and  that  was  the  political  relations  of  the  Pacific 
islands  with  France  and  Germany,  as  well  as  with  Great  Britain.  He  was  con- 
vinced that  a  time  would  soon  come  when  it  would  be  considered  desirable  to  have 
a  formal  federation  of  the  Australian  colonies.  The  colonists  had  strong  views 
respecting  the  Pacific  islands,  but  those  views  often  differed.  There  should  be  an 
Australasian  Dominion,  like  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  which  would  speak  with  a 
single  voice  of  authority  for  all  the  British  colonies  in  the  Pacific.  That  voice 
would  command  respect  both  in  England  and  on  the  continent  of  Europe.  More- 
over, an  Australasian  federation  would  be  a  great  step  towards  the  desired  federation 
of  the  entire  British  empire.  Such  a  federation  would  probably  form  a  friendly 
alliance  with  the  great  English-speaking  federation  in  America;  and  the  world 
would  thus  see  a  Fax  Britannica,  far  transcending  what  Pliny  called  the  Immensa 
Romanes  pacts  majestaa, 

Mr.  DsiiMAB  MoBGAN  Said  the  allusion  to  the  duk-duk  reminded  him  of  what 
he  had  seen  among  the  natives  of  the  Congo,  who  bad  a  practice  called  Inhimpi^ 
which  appeared  to  be  a  kind  of  Dovitiate  through  which  the  yoimg  men  passed  for  a 
certain  time,  during  which  they  removed  themselves  from  all  intercourse  with  their 
friends,  and  painted  their  bodies  white.  At  the  end  of  this  probationary  period 
there  was  a  grand  ceremony  admitting  them  to  a  kind  of  Freemasonry. 

The  Chaibmak,  in  concluding  the  meeting,  said  that  tbey  were  indebted  to  both 
the  author  of  the  paper  and  to  Mr.  Brown  for  the  instruction  and  entertainment  they 
had  afforded.  Mr.  Romilly  had  already  written  one  book,  and  it  was  to  be  hoped 
that  he  would  write  many  more.  Mr.  Brown  had  copious  manuscript  notes,  and 
had  devoted  himself  to  other  subjects  besides  the  mere  keeping  of  a  diary,  a  proof  of 
which  he  had  given  in  his  admirable  Dictionary  and  Grammar  of  the  native  lan- 
guage, a  MS.  copy  of  which  he  had  liberally  presented  to  the  Society.  He  would 
recommend  all  travellers  inihose  seas  to  make  a  really  serious  attempt  to  classify  and 
affiliate  the  Papuan  and  Melanesian  languages.  Until  vocabularies  were  issued,  which 
could  be  compared,  it  would  not  be  possible  to  understand  how  those  islands  were 
originally  settled  and  populated.  It  was  a  very  interesting  branch  of  linguistic 
ethnology.  Mr.  Brown  had  made  a  great  step  in  advance  in  a  book  which  was  still 
in  manuscript,  and  he  hoped  it  would  be  extended  so  as  to  point  out  the  analogies 
between  the  New  Britain  languages  and  others  further  afield.  In  conclusion  he 
proposed  a  vote  of  thanks  to  both  Mr.  Romilly  and  Mr.  Brown. 


(     19    ) 

Journey  of  the  Expedition  under  Colonel  Woodthorpe,  -&,"&.,  from  Upper 
Assam  to  the  Irawadi,  and  return  over  the  Patkoi  Range. 

By  Major  C.  E.  Maogregor,  44tli  Kegiment  (Ghurka  Light  Infantry). 

(Bead  at  the  Evening  Meeting,  December  13tb,  1886.) 

Hap  9  p.  68. 

I  PROPOSE  this  evening  to  read  to  you  a  paper  describing  an  exploration 
made  in  the  beginning  of  last  year  by  a  distinguished  Fellow  of  your 
Society  (Colonel  R.  G.  Woodthorpe)  and  myself,  from  Sadiya,  on  the 
upper  waters  of  the  Brahmaputra,  to  the  Kampti  Shan  country,  on  the 
western  branch  of  the  Irawadi,  and  to  give  yo\i  a  brief  account  of  the 
various  tribes  we  met  en  route.  The  country  through  which  we 
travelled  lies  between  the  north-east  extremity  of  the  province  of  Assam 
and  the  upper  waters  of  the  Irawadi. 

As  the  mountain  chains  here  lie  in  a  general  north  and  south  direction, 
contrary  to  the  Himalaya,  which  lie  east  and  west,  our  route  necessarily 
had  to  cross  the  ranges. 

After  leaving  Sadiya,  the  route  lay  more  or  less  through  thick  and 
tangled  forests  along  the  banks  of  the  Dihing  river  for  about  125  miles 
up  to  Kiimki  (altitude  3600  feet).  On  leaving  Kiimki,  the  country 
became  mountainous,  though  still  densely  wooded,  until  we  crossed  the 
Ohaukan  range  (altitude  9000  feet)  and  descended  into  the  Bor  Kampti 
valley,  where  we  found  a  series  of  plateaus  of  a  more  open  character, 
the  hills,  however,  on  either  side  of  the  valley  continuing  as  thickly 
forest-clad  as  on  the  Assam  side  of  the  range. 

The  country  through  which  we  travelled  being  very  sparsely  in- 
habited (a  week  may  elapse  without  the  voyager  coming  across  a 
habitation  of  any  kind),  there  are  of  course  no  regular  paths,  and  the 
route  lies  either  along  the  rocky  beds  of  mountain  torrents,  or,  should 
these  be  impassable  owing  to  heavy  rains,  in  the  tracks  of  elephants  or 
other  wild  denizens  of  the  jungle.  A  system  of  blazing  the  trees,  by 
the  hillmen,  which  obtains  in  these  regions,  enables  the  traveller  to 
thread  his  way  through  the  seemingly  trackless  forests.  On  leaving 
Sadiya,  the  most  important  link  in  the  chain  of  frontier  outposts  on  the 
extreme  north-east  of  the  province  of  Assam,  the  tribes  wo  met  were 
Kamptis,  Singphos  or  Kakhyens  (Singpho  merely  meaning  **  a  man  "  in 
their  language),  Mishmis,  Nagas  and,  in  a  valley  of  the  Nam-kiu  river, 
Kunnungs,  famed  for  their  skill  in  manufacturing  sword-blades  and  in 
extracting  silver  from  the  ore  which  abounds  in  the  country  they 
inhabit,  and  various  specimens  of  barbarous  tribes,  such  as  Meeros,  &c., 
who  are  neighbours,  of  the  Kampti  Shans. 

The  climate  of  the  country  through  which  our  route  lay  is  excessively 
moist.  During  the  months  of  November,  December,  January,  and 
February  there  is  supposed  to  be  a  cessation  in  the  constant  downpour ; 

c  2 


2a 


EXPEDITIOS  FUOM  UPPER  ASSAM  TO  TflE  IRAWADI, 


Imt  tine  18  only  Dominally  the  case,  as  even  in  tbo  months  mgntione^l 
we  found  that  ficarcely  a  day  passed  without  rain,  and  I  recollect  that  it 
rained  in  torronfg,  day  and  night,  the  whole  of  one  week  in  January. 
The  effect  of  this  almost  ceaselefis  downpour  is,  that  an  enormous  quantity 
of  water  finds  its  way  to  the  west  of  the  wateri>arting  of  the  Chaukan 
niid  Patkoi  ranges  into  the  Brahmaputra,  Tia  the  Dihing  and  other  riverej, 
and  to  the  e^i&t  into  the  Irawadi,  via  the  Num-lung  and  numerous 
other  rivers,  the  drainage  from  the  Xaga  Hills  to  tho  south  being 
absorbed  into  tho  Ky  end  wen  river  winch  joins  the  Irawadi  below 
Mandalay,  Last  March,  a  most  interesting  paper,  on  a  jonrney  he 
made  up  the  Eyendwen  in  188 1 j  was  read  to  you  by  Mr.  Annan  Eryce. 
Since  our  annexation  of  Upper  Btiroja  it  iij  of  course  important  that 
we  should  have  as  many  fmuds  as  possible  in  tho  tribes  of  the  far 
north,  and  although  the  Kampti  Shans,  whom  wo  visited,  are  not  a 
very  numerous  clan  (I  should  say  that  the  %vhole  commimity  does  not 
exceed  12,000  souls),  3^et,  owing  to  their  superior  civilisation^ — superior 
when  contrasted  wiih  the  eemi-barbarism  of  their  neighbours — they 
would  prove  of  use  to  us ;  they  certainly  showed  their  willingness  to  be 
fiiendl}^  in  every  way* 

Before  commencing  the  narrative  account  of  owr  journey  I  must  not 
forget  to  mention  that  we  were  not  the  first  EuropeauB  to  visit  tht^ 
country  of  the  Kampti  Shans,  In  1826,  Lieuts.  Wilcox  and  Burl  ton 
with  an  escort  of  twenty  Kampti  militia,  visited  Manchi  from  Sadiya, 
Their  route  coincided  with  ours,  or  I'athcr  ours  coincided  with  theirs* 
for  two  days*  march  from  the  mouth  of  the  Bapha  river.  From  thence 
the  travellers,  probably  not  having  been  told  of  the  somewhat  easier 
and  more  direct  route  via  Kiimki  and  the  Chaukan  Pass  into  the  valley 
of  the  Nam-kiu,  turned  their  steps  more  to  the  north  and  crossed  the 
Phuugan  range  at  a  higher  altitude  than  w*e  did.  Wilcox  did  not  visit 
i'adao  or  Lao  gnu  and  Laugdau  (Mutig  Lung),  as  at  that  time  (sixty 
years  ago),  the  people  of  Manchi  were  at  war  with  their  neighbours, 
Wilcox's  narrative  teems  with  information  of  various  kinds,  and  we 
(Woodthori>e  and  I)  often  wished  we  bad  known  him  and  could  compare 
notes.  No  man,  except  perhaps  W^oodthorpe,  has  done  so  much  for  the 
geography  of  the  north-east  frontier  as  Wilcox, 

On  the  19tb  of  December,  1881,  our  party,  conjiisting  of  Colonel 
Woodthorpo,  b.e,,  Mr.  ^L  Ogle  (Survey  Department  J,  Mr.  T.  Digges  La 
Toucho  (Geological  Survey),  Dr,  D,  Grant,  and  an  escort  under  my 
command  of  forty-five  men  of  the  44th  (Gurkha  Light  Infantry)  and 
twenty  men  of  the  Frontier  Police,  together  with  the  usual  eomplemtiut 
of  native  surveyors,  coolies,  &c.,  left  Sadiya  and  commenced  operations 
by  exploring  up  tho  Koa  Dihing  river.  The  whole  of  the  party  was  in 
the  charge  of  Colonel  Woodthorpe,  the  survey  officer  on  the  north-east 
frontier. 

The  route  from  Sadiya  to  Indong,  a  Siogpho  village  situated  on  tko 


■ 


AND  RETURN  OVER  THE  PATKOI  RANGE,  21 

right  bank  of  the  Noa  Dihing  river,  and  distant  from  Sadiya  54  miles, 
needs  but  little  description.  We  were  obliged  to  cut  our  way  through 
the  tangled  jungle,  and  so  free  a  passage  for  our  elephants,  carrying  the 
provisions  and  baggage  of  our  party.  It  took  us  six  days  to  accomplish 
this  journey.  En  route  we  passed  several  Kampti  and  Singpho  villages, 
which  we  visited,  chatting  with  the  inhabitants,  sometimes  through 
the  medium  of  an  interpreter,  and  at  others  conversing  in  Assamese, 
which  is  more  or  less  the  "  lingua  Franca  "  on  the  British  side  of  the 
frontier. 

At  one  Eampti  village  I  noticed  that  the  inhabitants  had  decorated 
<he  graves  of  their  relations  with  flowers  and  flags,  and  was  informed 
that  it  was  customary  to  do  so  periodically,  like  our  neighbours  across 
the  Channel  on  All  Saints'  Day.  At  another  village,  of  which  the  great 
majority  of  the  inhabitants  were  Singphos  (who  are  by  religion  spirit- 
worshippers),  we  found  a  Buddhist  temple  and  school,  which  had  been 
erected  principally  through  the  generosity  of  the  head  man,  who  was  a 
Singpho ;  this  was  quite  an  exceptional  instance  of  unsectarian  conduct. 
On  Tisiting  the  school  we  found  about  a  dozen  boys  being  taught  by  the 
yellow-robed  Buddhist  priest,  who  showed  us  over  the  temple.  The 
priest  informed  us  that  the  paper  ho  used  for  writing  on  was  manu- 
factured out  of  a  creeper,  and  also  showed  us  a  peculiar  shaped  fan 
which  was  used  during  prayer.  In  the  early  morning  the  "  b&pu  "  or 
priest,  and  some  of  his  disciples,  walk  through  the  village  beating  a 
gong  and  calling  people  to  pray,  and  also  collecting  provisions  for  the 
day's  consumption.  At  this  village  (Mung  Lung)  we  obtained  through 
Mr.  Needham  (the  Political  Officer  at  Sadiya),  who  accompanied  us  thus 
far,  the  services  of  a  Kampti  interpreter,  called  "  Deori,"  who  subse- 
quently proved  of  great  use  to  us  when  we  visited  the  valley  of  the 
Kampti  Shans  on  the  Irawadi.  The  Mr.  Needham  mentioned  is  the 
same  officer  who,  with  Captain  E.  H.  Moles  worth,  made  the  adventurous 
journey  to  Eima  on  the  Tibetan  frontier  early  this  year. 

The  chief  of  Mung  Lung,  a  venerable  looking  man,  arrayed  in  a 
gorgeous  flowered  Chinese  robe,  did  the  honours  of  his  village  to  us  in 
company  with  his  newest  and  latest  acquisition  in  the  shape  of  a  wife, 
for  whom,  we  were  informed,  that  he  had  just  paid  80/.,  10  guns,  10 
slaves,  some  buffaloes,  and  200  beads,  was  present  at  a  display  of  fire- 
works which  we  gave  on  the  banks  of  the  river  in  the  evening.  At  this 
village,  as  indeed  at  all  the  others  through  which  we  passed,  a  Berthon's 
collapsible  boat,  which  Woodthorpe  had  brought  with  hi  a),  created  a 
good  deal  of  wonder.  This  boat  proved  of  the  greatest  service  later 
on  in  ferrying  our  party  and  baggage  over  rivers  which  were  too  deep 
to  be  waded. 

On  Christmas  Day  we  arrived  at  Indong.  During  our  stay  hero  the 
summits  of  two  neighbouring  peaks  of  6000  and  7000  feet  altitude  were 
cleared  for  survey  purposes  and  temporary  houses,  storehouses,  and  a 


22  EXPEDITION  FROM  UPPER  ASSAM  TO  THE  IRAWADI, 

field  hospital  (where  our  clever  and  energetic  young  doctor  dispensed 
physic  and  gave  advice  to  all  comers)  were  erected.  We  had  a  constant 
succession  of  visitors,  comprising  Kamptis,  Singphos,  Nagas,  and 
Mishmis,  who  were  all  hospitably  received  by  Woodthorpe  and  his 
party.  Musical-boxes,  wind-up  toys,  &c.,  were  shown,  tricks  of  various 
kinds,  and  occasionally  fireworks.  The  prevalent  disease  seemed  to  be 
goitre,  and  a  large  amount  of  red  iodide  of  mercury  was  given  away ;  so 
fond  indeed  were  the  Singpho  ladies  of  painting  themselves,  that  their 
necks,  unlovely  objects  to  view  at  any  time,  soon  became  masses  of 
blisters,  and  I  should  think  most  uncomfortable  to  their  owners.  It 
was  sought  to  impress  upon  our  semi-barbarian  visitors  the  benefits 
which  would  accrue  from  vaccinaiion ;  but  they  all  'drew  the  line'* 
firmly  there,  and  "  would  have  none  of  it.*'  Several  specimens  of  coal 
and  of  serpentine  were  brought  in  for  the  inspection  of  our  geologist 
(who  was  called  the  "stone  man"  by  the  natives).  The  ash  of  the 
coal  was  rather  coloured,  but  seemed  of  good  quality ;  the  prices  asked 
by  the  Singphos  for  the  serpentine  appeared  io  us  ridiculoualy  large, 
30Z.  was  asked  for  a  lump  6  lbs.  in  weight.  The  Singphos  informed 
me  that  they  had  a  good  market  for  the  serpentine  on  the  Chinese 
frontier. 

The  country  round  Indong  was  of  a  fiat  uninteresting  nature,  tangled 
forests  and  swamps  reeking  with  malaria  were  the  principal  features. 
A  few  clearances  had  been  made  by  the  Singphos  on  any  high  ground 
which  existed,  for  the  cultivation  of  Indian  corn  and  other  articles  of 
food.  During  the  winter,  the  Dihing  river  only  runs  in  narrow 
channels,  and  numerous  grass-covered  plains  (locally  called  "  Churs  ") 
exist  several  miles  in  length,  forming  large  islands,  inhabited  by  tigers^ 
buffaloes,  and  innumerable  deer ;  the  last-named  supplied  our  camp  with 
fresh  meat,  while  the  river  yielded  us  occasional  mahser)  the  Indian 
salmon),  obtained  by  the  rod. 

Before  I  proceed  any  farther  with  my  narrative,  I  will  try  and 
describe  briefly  the  four  principal  tribes  we  came  in  contact  with. 
Probably  the  majority  of  my  audience  know  all  about  them ;  but  some 
may  not. 

First,  the  Kamptis,  otherwise  Shans,  probably  originally  came  from 
China ;  they  are  by  religion  Buddhists.  Their  history  is,  that  three  Shan 
brothers  founded  settlements  of  the  Shan  race  at  Mogong  in  Burma,  in 
Assam,  and  at  Bor  Kampti  on  the  Nam-kiu  river.  The  Kamptis  come 
from  the  same  stock  as  the  Siamese,  with  whom  I  believe  they  are  identical 
in  language,  religion,  customs,  and  dress.  The  Kamptis  possess  a  written 
character.  Their  language  is  monosyllabic,  and  very  much  accented. 
Words  spelt  the  same  may  express  half  a  dozen  different  ideas,  according 
to  the  way  they  are  pronounced. 

Whilst  among  the  Kamptis  I  compiled  a  vocabulary  of  about  600 
words,  and  obtained  a  few  specimens  of  their  writing. 


AND  RETURN  OVER  THE  PATKOI  RANGE.  23 

As  I  have  before  said,  their  religion  is  Buddhism,  but  in  a  somewhat 
modified  and  tainted  form,  constant  association  with  their  neighbonrs, 
who  are  spirit-worshippers,  has  imbued  them  with  ideas  foreign  to  the 
true  tenets  of  Buddhism.  The  dress  of  the  men  consists  of  a  species  of 
kilt  and  a  jacket,  and  that  of  the  women  of  a  petticoat  and  jacket,  the 
kilts  of  the  men  and  dresses  of  the  women  resemble  Scotch  plaids,  and 
they  possess,  like  the  Scotch,  a  large  number  of  patterns  and  checks. 
The  hair  of  the  women  is  worn  neatly  coiled  up  and  fastened  with 
silyer  and  bone  pins.  Amber  earrings  are  in  common  use  with  both 
sexes.     Every  male  carries  a  sword  in  a  wooden  scabbard. 

Secondly,  the  Singphos  or  Kakhyens  belong  to  the  Tibeto-Buiman 
race  and  are  spirit- worshippers.  They  have  a  tradition  of  a  partial  flood, 
in  which  all  the  bad  people  in  the  plains  were  drowned ;  but  that  one 
fEonily  was  kept  by  a  spirit  at  the  top  of  a  mountain,  and  from  this  family 
Singphos  (men)  repeopled  the  plains,  when  the  waters  subsided,  at 
the  end  of  eight  ages  of  a  man's  life  (about  500  years).  The  Singphos 
have  a  tradition  that  in  the  very  beginning,  there  existed  on  the 
earth  an  old  man  (**  TingU  ")  and  an  old  woman  ("  Gumgai  ").  In  the 
skies  dwelt  two  spirits  ("  Nats  ")  called  Miitum  and  Muta.  The  terrestrial 
beings  had  a  son  and  a  daughter ;  the  son  wandered  about  the  earth,  but 
the  daughter  was  taken  up  to  the  skies  by  the  celestial  beings  who 
finally  brought  her  down  and  married  her  to  the  wandering  man.  From 
this  pair  sprang  all  men. 

The  marriage  customs  of  the  Singphos  are  simple.  A  youth  should 
marry  his  cousin,  his  mother's  niece  if  possible.  Should  a  cousin  not 
be  available,  the  maternal  uncle  should  arrange  for  a  girl  of  his  class. 
Should  he  be  unable  to  procure  one,  the  uncle  goes  to  another  family 
and  says,  "  If  you  give  me  a  girl  for  my  nephew,  I  will  pay  you  back 
in  kind  when  one  of  your  family  requires  a  bride."  The  father  of  the 
youth  then  gives  a  feast  and  presents  to  the  girl's  family.  Should  the 
bridegroom's  father  not  be  in  a  position  to  give  presents,  he  gives  or 
Bells  one  of  his  daughters  to  the  other  family  in  lieu  of  presents. 

A  feast  given  by  the  parents  of  the  bridegroom  (differing  from  our 
own  custom),  ratifies  the  marriage  contract.  It  is  customary  for  the 
bride  to  prepare  and  serve  out  the  food  to  the  guests  on  this  occasion. 

The  dress  of  the  Singphos  is  almost  similar  to  the  Eamptis.  The 
men  wear  kilts  and  jackets,  and  the  women  petticoats  and  jackets. 
Married  women  wear  their  hair  tied  on  the  crown  of  the  head  like  the 
men,  unmarried  women  wear  theirs  tied  close  to  the  back  of  the  neck 
and  fastened  with  silver  pins.  On  the  whole,  the  dress  of  the  men  is 
comfortable  and  picturesque,  and  that  of  the  women  modest  and  neat. 

During  the  time  we  were  out  on  the  exploration,  I  set  myself  the 
task  of  learning  the  Singpho  language,  which  I  found  very  difficult. 
My  principal  instructor  was  an  interpreter  and  he  was  far  from  being 
an  enthusiastic  tutor.     I  found  him  what  children  would  call  "very 


24  EXPEDITION  FROM  UPPER  ASSAM  TO  THE  IRAWADI, 

trying,"  and  I  dare  say  I  was  the  same  from  his  point  of  view.  However, 
I  managed  to  collect  a  vocabulary  of  about  700  words,  and  to  write  a 
rough  outline  grammar. 

The  Singpho  language  is  peculiar  for  its  combination  of  consonants, 
which  render  its  pronunciation  difficult  to  a  European.  There  are  a 
quantity  of  onomatopoeic  words,  principally  the  names  of  animals.  Many 
ideas,  positive  to  our  minds,  such  as  bad,  brave,  are  rendered  negatively 
in  Singpho,  as  not  good,  not  cowardly.  The  gender  in  the  brute 
creation  is  denoted  in  a  peculiar  way,  by  cutting  off  the  first  syllable  of 
the  noun  and  adding  14  for  the  masculine,  and  cutting  off  the  first 
syllable  and  adding  vi  for  the  feminine,  as  shirong,  a  tiger.  Bongl4  a 
male  tiger,  and  rongvi  a  tigress.  I  generally  found  my  instructors 
"  childlike  and  bland,"  but  the  following  little  anecdote  will  show  that 
the  veneer  of  his  civilisation  was  only  skin  deep,  and  the  interpreter 
being  scratched,  the  Shan  appeared.  One  day  whilst  receiving  my 
lesson  in  the  language,  I  happened  to  pull  out  my  little  Deringer  pistol 
with  my  pocket  handkerchief.  Deori  pounced  on  the  pistol  at  once,  and 
went  into  raptures  over  it.  On  my  asking  him  why  the  little  weapon 
struck  his  fancy  so  much,  he  replied,  "  It  would  be  so  easy  to  cover  it 
up  in  the  palms  of  both  hands,  approach  a  deadly  enemy  in  an  attitude 
of  prayer  and  reverence  with  outstretched  palms  and  so  quietly  shoot 
him  through  the  head  !  " 

Thirdly,  the  Mishmis.  Those  whom  we  met  belonged  to  the  Meju 
or  middle  clan.  They  are  a  small,  active,  and  very  dirty  people,  of  a 
Mongolian  type,  flat  noses,  almond-shaped  eyes,  &c.  'J'heir  dress 
consists  of  a  kind  of  kilt  and  a  woollen  armless  coat;  their  hair  is 
turned  up  and  tied  in  a  knot  at  ihe  top  of  the  head.  The  women  were 
neatly  dressed,  and  some  of  them  wore  a  broad  band  of  thin  silver  round 
their  heads.  The  men  are  armed  with  a  short  sword,  and  either  a  bow 
or  a  spear,  a  few  have  flint-lock  muskets.  A  pouch  of  the  skin  of 
some  wild  animal  is  generally  carried  over  the  shoulders,  and  contains 
a  pipe,  tobacco,  flint  and  steel,  also  some  poison  (aconite),  to  put  on  their 
arrow  heads.  The  Mishmis  exchange  poison  and  musk  deer  pods  with 
the  Tibetans  (whose  neighbours  they  are)  for  clothing,  salt,  and  swords ; 
and  they  barter  indiarubber,  ivory,  beeswax,  and  ginger,  for  salt, 
opium,  and  clothing,  with  the  inhabitants  of  Assam.  The  religion  of  the 
Mishmis  is  a  kind  of  spirit- worship.  As  is  often  the  case  among 
barbarous  tribes,  the  men  are  much  vainer  than  the  women  ;  both  sexes, 
however,  distend  the  lobes  of  their  ears  with  enonnous  silver  earrings. 
I  thought  the  men,  especially  the  boys,  had  sweet  and  musical  voices. 

Fourthly,  the  Nagas.  The  few  scattered  hamlets  of  this  clan  are 
situated  on  the  north-western  slopes  of  the  Patkoi  range.  The  Singphos 
and  Kamptis  always  spoke  of  these  Nagas  as  being  subject  to  them. 
These  people  (who  are  quite  distinct  from  the  powerful  Angami  and 
Lhota  clans  of  Nagas  to  the  south  and  west}  are  miserably  poor  and 


AXD  RETURN  OVER  THE  PATKOI  RANGE.  25 

wear  hardly  any  clothing ;  their  arms  consist  of  spears,  cross-bows,  and 
hatchets ;  their  religion  is  spirit-worship  ;  they  are  tattooed  on  the  face, 
legs,  and  arms ;  their  principal  trade  is  in  indiarubber. 

I  now  take  np  the  thread  of  my  narrative.  On  the  12th  of  January, 
having  completed  all  arrangements  for  onr  depot  and  got  up  necessary 
supplies,  I  moved  forward  up  the  Dihing  river,  passing  several  Singpho 
villages  en  route.  At  one  of  these  villages  I  visited  the  chief  at  his 
bouse.  I  was  shown  over  the  dwelling,  which  was,  like  all  Singpho 
houses,  built  on  piles  about  five  feet  from  the  ground,  the  eaves  of  the 
roof  coming  down  to  the  level  of  the  platform  which  fonned  the  floor  of 
the  house.  There  seemed  to  be  a  plentiful  supply  of  cats,  which  the 
Singphos  onomatopceically  called  "  miau."  In  the  house  and  below  the 
raised  floor,  pigs,  fowls,  and  dogs  abounded.  The  front  of  the  house  was 
decorated  with  the  horns  of  cattle  slain  for  feasts.  I  was  offered  some 
of  the  Singpho  wine,  called  "  shim,"  and  out  of  courtesy  tasted  it,  but 
found,  as  I  had  suspected  from  my  experience  of  Assam  frontier  liquor, 
that  it  was  very  acid  and  most  unpalatable  unless  one  was  extremely 
thirsty. 

On  the  22nd  Woodthorpe,  having  completed  his  survey  work  in  the 
neighbourhood,  joined  me  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Dapha  river,  where 
I  had  established  a  camp.  The  Dapha  valley  was  about  five  miles  long 
and  one  mile  wide ;  it  was  covered  with  short  grass,  and  abounded  with 
deer.  A  few  tigers  had  also  taken  up  their  abode  in  the  valley,  a  fact 
which  came  unpleasantly  home  to  our  coolies,  two  of  whom,  poor 
fellows,  were  carried  out  of  camp  at  night  by  a  man-eater,  who  was,  I 
am  glad  to  say,  eventually  shot.  In  exploring  the  plateau  to  the  east 
of  the  valley  I  came  across  some  wild  elephants,  who,  luckily,  were  quite 
as  much  frightened  at  my  appearance  as  I  was  at  theirs,  and  saved  me 
the  trouble  of  running  away  by  bolting  with  loud  trumpetings  into  the 
neighbouring  forest. 

From  this  valley  we  had  hoped  to  have  made  the  ascent  of  a  peak 
called  Dapha  Bum  (16,000  feet),  bum  in  the  Singpho  language  meaning 
mountain,  but  the  route  was  found  utterly  impracticable,  and  no 
guides  were  to  be  had,  so  the  idea  was  reluctantly  abandoned,  and  we 
again  started  eastward,  crossing  the  Dapha  river  waist-deep  just  above 
its  junction  with  the  Dihing  (or  Diyung  as  it  is  locally  called).  Wo 
toiled  along  the  river-bed  for  three  days,  sometimes  picking  our  way 
over  boulders  of  all  sizes,  from  that  of  a  cricket  ball  to  that  of  a  small 
house,  and  at  others  climbing  along  the  precipitous  sides  of  cliffs, 
making  ladders  of  creepers  and  trees,  or  cutting  footholds  in  the  rocks 
to  enable  our  laden  coolies  (hill-porters)  to  got  along.  There  had  been 
such  a  constant  downpour  of  rain  for  these  three  days  that  the  river- 
bed became  impassable,  and  we  had  to  halt  for  the  next  three  days  on 
some  ledges  of  rock  just  above  the  water.  When  the  flood  subsided  we 
started  forward  again,  road-making  the  whole  way. 


26  EXPEDITION  FROM  UPPER  ASSAM  TO  THE  IRAWADI, 

Our  freedom  from  acoidente  on  this  as  on  many  other  occasions, 
was  principally  dne  to  Woodthorpe's  engineering  skill,  and  the  intre- 
pidity of  the  Ghurkas  of  the  escort,  who  would  hang  over  the  precipitous 
side  of  the  dangerous  places,  assisting  the  coolies  with  helping  hands 
and  cheery  advice  as  to  the  best  disposal  of  their  feet.  The  difficulties 
of  these  marches  were  greatly  increased  by  the  heavy  rain  which, 
flooding  the  river  below,  drove  us  to  the  cliffs  above.  Not  to  dwell  too 
long  on  the  discomforts  and  difficulties,  which,  after  all,  are  inseparable 
from  pioneering  in  a  country  such  as  the  north-east  frontier  of  India. 
I  may  mention  that  we  arrived  at  a  place  called  Kumki  on  the  14th  of 
February,  and  right  glad  we  were  to  get  on  a  bit  of  level  ground  and 
have  a  chance  of  drying  our  damp  and  mouldy  clothes  and  bedding. 
In  the  valley  of  Kiimki,  which  is  triangular  in  shape  and  about  two 
miles  in  length  by  one  in  breadth,  we  found  two  largo  Singpho 
villages  ;  these  villages  had  never  before  been  visited  by  Europeans,  and 
at  first  tlieir  attitude  was  a  very  sulky  one,  though  we  did  all  we  could 
to  conciliate  them ;  the  largest  of  the  two  communities  did  not  bring  in 
the  customary  offering  of  a  fowl  and  a  handful  of  rice,  so  we  stood  on 
our  dignity  (a  good  plan  to  adopt  sometimes  when  dealing  with  semi- 
barbarians),  and  refused  to  have  anything  to  say  to  the  people  till  the 
usual  presents  were  brought  in  by  the  head  man.  This  was  done 
eventually,  and  then  some  red  cloths  were  presented  to  the  head  men, 
the  musical-boxes  were  set  going,  and  a  display  of  fireworks  given.  The 
inhabitants  of  this  little  valley,  which  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Diyiing  river  in  East  long.  96°  66'  4"  and  North  lat.  27°  17'  10"  at 
3600  feet  above  sea-level,  seemed  to  have  a  great  idea  of  the  power  and 
influence  of  the  Eampti  Shans  on  the  Nam-kiu  river,  and  very  little  of 
that  of  the  English.  I  think,  however,  that  before  we  finally  left  the  valley 
their  ideas  underwent  a  considerable  change,  especially  after  they  heard 
how  well  the  Bor  Kamptis  had  treated  us.  I  mention  thi«,  as  although 
Kiimki  is  only  125  miles  to  the  east  of  Sadiya,  yet  the  valley  had  never 
before  been  visited  by  English  representatives ;  Wilcox  in  his  journey 
in  1826  having  taken  a  more  northerly  direction  after  leaving  the 
Dapha  river. 

Whilst  at  Ktimki  I  inquired  about  the  manufacture  of  gunpowder, 
and  was  informed  that  the  proportion  of  the  three  ingredients  was  as 
follows  :— in  100  parts — saltpetre  70,  sulphur  15,  and  charcoal  15.  The 
Singphos  obtain  their  nitre  and  charcoal  locally,  the  sulphur  they  get 
from  Assam  and  Burma ;  the  powder  is  not  granulated,  and  the  Singphos 
use  enormous  charges  in  their  old  flint-lock  muskets.  The  survey 
officers  mapped  out  the  surrounding  country  and  we  made  several  ex- 
cursions to  peaks  ranging  from  5000  feet  to  7600  feet  high,  and  distant 
from  one  to  four  days'  journey.  (I  reckon  the  distances  in  days  and  not 
in  miles,  owing  to  the  extreme  inaccessibility  of  the  country.  On  one 
occasion  it  took  us  three  days  to  cut  our  way  to  the  summit  of  a 


AND  RETURN  OYER  TH£  PATKOI  RANGE.  27 

peak,  from  which  the  return  journey  to  camp  was  performed  in  seven 
hours.) 

One  narrow  ridge  along  which  we  had  to  climb  had  a  sheer  cliff  on 
one  side,  and  on  the  other  a  few  bamboos,  which  were  ornamented  with 
rings  of  sharp  thorns  at  intervals  of  every  three  or  four  inches  up  the 
stems ;  of  course,  when  the  choice  lay  between  lacerating  one's  hands 
by  holding  on  for  support  to  the  thorns  on  going  down  the  precipice,  it 
"  goes  without  saying  "  that  we  preferred  the  thorny  Scylla  to  the  rocky 
Charybdis.  In  some  places  along  these  ridges  the  bamboo  jungle  was 
so  dense  and  matted  together  by  the  weight  of  the  lately  fallen 
snow,  that  we  had  to  cut  our  way  with  the  Ghurka  knife,  often 
disappearing  bodily,  slipping  between  the  tangled  masses  of  under- 
growth, fortunate  if  we  found  our  arms  left  free  to  commence  the  work 
anew  of  cutting  a  way  out.  We  noticed  on  some  of  the  less  precipitous 
ridges  where  the  stunted  oak  and  the  gorgeous  rhododendron  abounded, 
that  rhinoceros  had  travelled  over  them,  probably  when  making  their 
way  to  the  salt-licks  in  the  valley  of  the  Turong  (the  source  of  the 
Khyendwen  river).  I  have  noticed  the  marks  of  wild  elephants  at  even 
higher  altitudes  than  7000  feet,  but  never  before  those  of  rhinoceros  so 
high. 

Often  when  the  survey  officer  has  succeeded  in  surmounting  all  the 
difficulties  of  the  route  up  to  the  summit  of  a  peak,  which  he  has  cleared 
of  its  trees,  he  is  foiled  by  the  perversity  of  the  atmosphere,  which  will 
not  afford  him  the  view  for  which  he  came.  I  remember  how,  in  1875, 
Colonel  Godwin-Austen  (who  did  such  splendid  survey  work  in  the  Sub- 
Himalayan  ranges  on  both  banks  of  the  Brahmaputra),  Mr.  Ogle,  and  I 
remained  one  stormy  week  amid  snow,  sleet,  and  hail  on  Mount  '*  Shen- 
gore,"  7000  feet  high,  in  tlie  Daphla  Hills,  without  getting  a  viewt  We 
were  literally  a  week  in  the  clouds. 

On  the  6th  of  March  we  were  all  back  in  camp  at  Kumki,  not  sorry 
to  have  our  feet  once  more  on  level  ground.  On  going  through  a 
Singpho  village  on  our  return,  I,  being  anxious  to  air  the  little  know- 
ledge of  the  language  I  possessed,  called  out  to  (what  appeared  to  me) 
an  ancient  dame,  addressing  her  as  "  Giiragai,"  old  woman ;  the  lady  was 
very  angry,  and  shouted  out,  "  I  am  no  more  an  old  woman  than  you 
are ;  if  you  want  to  see  an  old  woman,  I  will  show  you  one,"  and  going 
into  the  house  she  produced  from  the  fireside  a  little  old  wizened  creature 
whom  she  pushed  forward,  saying,  "Now,  there  is  an  old  woman  for 
you."  I  pacified  the  Singpho  ladies  with  some  tobacco,  and  retired, 
feeling  properly  snubbed  for  having  been  so  ungallant  as  to  allude  to  a 
lady's  age. 

On  the  8th  of  March,  having  got  up  some  supplies  from  our  depot  on 
the  Dapha  river,  we  turned  our  faces  eastwards  again,  and  after  ^yq  days* 
hard  marching  we  arrived  at  the  very  head  of  the  Dihing  river,  which 
was  here,  at  a  height  of  nearly  8000  feet,  a  tiny  rivulet,  being  near  ita 


28  EXPEDITION  FROM  UPPER  ASSAM  TO  THE  IRAWADI, 

junction  with  the  Brahmaputra,  over  a  mile  in  width.  We  had  great 
difficulty  in  procuring  a  guide,  and  we  had  got  two  marches  from  Kiimbi, 
when  our  guide  announced  his  intention  of  returning.  However,  with 
the  bribe  of  a  gun,  we  persuaded  him  to  accompany  us.  The  man 
amused  us  much  by  sending  off  the  gun  by  a  slave  to  bo  placed  with 
his  Lares  and  Penates  at  his  village,  and  on  being  interrogated  as  his 
reason,  he  replied,  "  Who  knows  what  will  happen  to  your  party ;  mij 
reward  will  at  any  rate  be  safe." 

The  second  day's  march  from  Kiimki  we  bivouacked  for  the  night 
on  a  charming  plateau,  covered  with  short  gi*ass  and  dotted  here  and 
there  with  clumps  of  trees.  This  plateau  about  100  years  ago  was  in- 
habited by  a  race  of  men  called  MuUiks,  probably  one  of  the  so-called 
Naga  clans,  who  originally  came  from  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Nong- 
yong  Lake,  south  of  the  Patkoi  range.  These  Mulliks,  who  seemed  to 
have  been  a  most  inoffensive  people,  were  ousted  from  their  lands  which 
they  had  cultivated  on  the  Diyung  river  by  the  Eamptis  and  Singphos, 
particularly  by  the  latter,  and  the  majority  had  been  either  killed  or 
enslaved. 

Soon  after  leaving  this  plateau,  which  was  4300  feet  above  sea-level, 
we  struck  a  track  which  our  guide  informed  us  led  to  the  Khyendwen 
valley.  On  this  march  some  of  our  coolies  broke  down,  and  one  was  not 
able  to  carry  himself,  much  less  his  load,  so  Messrs.  Ogle,  Grant,  and 
La  Toucho  carried  the  sick  man  by  turns ;  and  I  must  mention  that  this 
was  not  the  only  occasion  that  sick  natives  were  carried  by  the  Europeans 
of  the  party,  our  young  doctor  especially  being  always  well  to  the  fore 
in  helping  to  get  sick  men  along.  That  night  wo  camped  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  7500  feet.  There  was  no  level  ground,  so  we  had  to  scoop  out 
holes  to  lie  in  on  the  mountain  side  and  make  the  best  of  it. 

The  following  day,  tramping  along  through  the  damp  rank  jungle, 
we  came  suddenly  on  an  old  Kampti  and  his  son.  The  old  man  was 
very  weak  and  ill,  and  could  not  proceed.  We  got  one  of  our  men  to 
carry  him  up  and  over  the  pass ;  but  the  poor  man  was  too  far  gone, 
and  died  on  the  road.  At  the  little  stream  where  we  found  the  dying 
Eampti  my  aneroid  read  7100  feet,  and  it  was  from  tliis  place  that  the 
ascent  of  the  pass  began.  A  comparatively  easy  climb  of  1200  feet 
brought  us  to  the  summit,  up  to  which  there  was  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  snow  lying  about  in  patches.  It  was  hard  work  for  our  coolies, 
wading  through  the  melting  snow.  We  Europeans  were  so  delighted 
to  be  up  to  our  knees  in  snow,  which  reminded  us  of  home,  that  wo 
began  to  imagine  we  were  schoolboys  again,  and  tried  our  hands  at 
snowballing.  To  all  the  natives,  except  our  guides,  snow  was  quite  a 
new  experience,  and  one  Assamese  youth  amused  us  by  announcing  his 
intention  of  filling  a  bottle  full  and  taking  it  back  to  Assam  to  show  his 
friends  what  a  strange  thing  he  had  met  on  his  travels ! 

Up  to  this  (12th  March)  we  had  generally  travelled  together,  but  as 


AND  RETURN  OVER  THE  PATKOl  RANGE.  29 

Woodtborpe  and  I  had  made  up  our  minds  to  visit  the  Kampti  Shans 
and  the  valley  of  the  Nam-kiu  river  (the  western  branch  of  the  Irawadi), 
and  also  to  return  into  Assam  via  the  Turong  river  (the  Khyendwen), 
crossing  the  Patkoi  range  near  the  Nongyong  Lake. 

We  therefore  separated  from  the  rest  of  the  party,  taking  with  us  four 
Gurkhas,  and  travelling  very  light.  As  we  were  all  short  of  rice,  we  only 
took  enough  to  last  us  into  the  Kampti  country.  Messrs.  Ogle,  La  Touche, 
and  Grant,  were  all  anxious  to  accompany  us,  but  we  could  not  manage 
provisions  for  the  whole  party,  so  they  returned  via  Kiimki  to  our  depots 
at  Dapha  and  Indong.  Of  course  our  guide  said  it  was  utterly  impossible 
to  go  on,  and  that  he  would  not  answer  for  the  consequences ;  however, 
when  he  was  informed  that  we  intended  to  go  on  with  or  without  him, 
he  waived  his  objection,  and  ofif  we  started.  After  a  dreary  march  in  the 
pouring  rain,  we  camped  that  night  at  a  place  called  Mokoshat  (7500 
feet).  I  may  mention,  once  for  all,  that  it  poured  with  rain  night  and 
day,  all  the  six  days'  journey  to  Bor  Kampti.  ^ 

At  Mokoshat,  our  interpreter  said  that  the  downpour  was  owing 
to  our  party  burning  bamboos,  which,  being  filled  with  water,  exploded, 
and  ho  was  continually  calling  out,  *'  Don't  make  a  noise,  or  the 
Deity  will  send  more  rain."  Frank  Hatton  mentions  that  the  same 
idea  obtains  among  the  Dy&ks  in  North  Borneo.  My  companion 
(Woodtborpe),  who  had  been  more  or  less  ill  all  day  with  fever  and  a 
bad  sore  throat,  became  very  ill  during  the  night,  and  I  was  very 
anxious  about  him  ;  however,  the  next  morning  he  was  a  little  better, 
so  we  commenced  to  climb  the  Mokoshat  mountain  (one  of  the  spurs 
running  down  from  the  Phungun  range).  Having  attained  a  height  of 
close  upon  9000  feet,  we  descended,  and  making  way  through  the 
melting  snow,  bivouacked  at  a  height  of  7500  feet.  It  had  been  so 
stormy  the  whole  day,  hail,  sleet,  and  incessant  min,  that  unfortunately 
we  got  no  view  whatever,  and  it  was  the  same  on  our  return.  Our 
guide  informed  us,  that  on  a  clear  day,  the  Brahmaputra  to  the  west, 
and  the  Irawadi  to  the  east,  can  be  seen  from  the  Mokoshat  mountain. 
Owing  to  the  intense  cold,  and  the  driving  hail  and  sleet,  which  caused 
the  track,  which  we  with  'difficulty  made  out  by  the  "blazing"  of 
former  travellers,  to  be  very  slippery,  our  progress  was  very  slow,  and 
we  had  to  halt  on  the  hill-side  without  water,  except  what  we  got  from 
the  skies  above.  Darkness  came  on,  and  our  guide  ensconced  himself 
in  a  hollow  tree  from  which  ho  could  not  be  persuaded  to  budge.  Seated 
crosa-legged  in  his  shelter,  with  a  fixed  and  vacant  look  on  his  stolid 
countenance,  he  reminded  me  of  a  picture  I  have  Feen  somewhere  of 
"  Saiambu,"  a  Hindu  deity,  called  the  self-existent  and  self-complacent 
one. 

On  the  sixth  day,  after  leaving  the  bulk  of  our  party,  we  arrive  I  at 
the  stockaded  town  of  Langnu.  There  had  been  a  dreary  sameness  about 
all  otir  marches;  tramping  along  through  the  damp  rank  jungle,  all 


30  EXPEDITION  FROM  UPPER  ASSAM  TO  THE  IRAWADI, 

sodden  under  foot,  had  a  depressing  effect,  and  .we  almost  imagined  that 
we  were  being  gradually  absorbed  into  the  mass  of  decaying  vegetation 
which  existed  above,  below  and  around  us ;  it  was  almost  a  relief  when 
the  route,  as  it  often  did,  lay  along  the  rocky  beds  of  mountain  streams. 

Thunderstorms  were  very  frequent.  I  always  think  they  are  grander 
and  more  impressive  at  high  altitudes,  the  crashing  among  the  trees 
and  the  awaking  of  a  thousand  echoes  on  the  mountain  sides,  has  a 
greater  effect  when  one  is  out  in  the  open,  especially  at  night. 
Apropos  of  thunder,  the  Singphos  have  rather  a  poetical  way  of  ex- 
pressing it — for  it  thunders,  they  say,  '*  mou  sigade,"  the  cloud  is  calling 
out.  On  our  way  to  Langnu,  the  site  of  a  Kampti  bivouac  was  pointed 
out  to  us  where  ten  Kampti  traders  on  their  way  back  from  Assam  had 
been  recently  surprised  and  massacred  by  Singpho  robbers,  and  we  were 
warned  to  look  out  on  our  return  journey.  The  Kamptis  afterwards 
told  us  that  if  it  were  not  for  fear  of  Singpho  robbers  there  would  be 
much  greater  intercourse  between  the  valleys  of  the  Irawadi  and  the 
Brahmaputra. 

Our  great  anxiety  on  arrival  at  Langnu  was  on  account  of  food  for  our 
coolies  and  our  four  Gurkhas,  so  Woodthorpe  and  I  walked  into  the  town 
to  interview  the  raja ;  we  were  conducted  to  the  town  hall,  a  thatched 
house  with  a  raised  platform,  in  the  centre  of  which  was  a  fireplace,  and 
after  a  long  delay  the  raja  came  in  state  with  Burmese  gilded  umbrellas 
carried  over  him  and  his  brother :  gongs  were  beaten  and  occasionally  a 
musket  was  discharged.  Among  the  retinue  a  conspicuous  figure  was 
an  individual  called  the  Tongnu,  who  was  dressed  in  a  kilt,  a  black 
goat-skin  coat  and  a  Burmese  red  lacquered  helmet  (somewhat  like  a 
fire  brigade  man's  hat);  this  man's  duties  are  of  various  kinds,  he 
seemed  to  combine  the  office  of  master  of  the  ceremonies  with  that  of 
chief  of  the  police.  The  Kampti  Raja  said  that  if  he  had  known  we  were 
coming  ho  would  have  gone  to  meet  us;  but  I  think  this  was  only 
**  a  manner  of  speaking,"  our  sudden  and  unexpected  descent  on  the 
valley  probably  saved  us  the  mortification  of  being  turned  back  had 
the  Kamptis  got  wind  of  our  intention.  On  the  whole  we  had  an 
amusing  and  satisfactory  interview ;  rice  was  promised  us  and  the 
promise  was  handsomely  redeemed.  After  the  interview  we  were  shown 
over  the  stockaded  town  ;  the  stockade  was  a  double  one,  11  feet  high 
with  a  banquette  of  earth  about  four  feet  high  ;  we  were  told  that  the 
slaves  had  built  the  stockade,  and  were  also  informed  that  all  the  slaves 
would  gladly  go  to  Assam  if  they  could  ;  this  I  do  not  believe,  as  the 
slaves  (so  called)  seemed  perfectly  happy  and  contented.  With  the 
exception  of  a  few  cases  of  goitre,  the  Kamptis  seemed  a  healthy  people ; 
a  few  old  people  complained  of  rheumatism,  for  which  we  gave  them 
some  vaseline,  the  rubbing  of  which  would  do  the  affected  parts  no  harm 
(and  I  am  afraid  not  much  good). 

A  few  wild,   uncouth-looking  Singphos  from  the   adjacent  hills 


AND  RETURN  OVER  THE  PATKOI  RANGE.  31 

came  fully  armed  into  onr  camp,  and  the  Eamptis  seemed  much 
relieved  when  they  had  taken  their  departure.  Some  Kunnungs  came 
to  have  a  look  at  the  two  white  men ;  they  inhabit  the  country  to  the 
north-east  of  the  Eampti  valley,  and  are  an  extremely  gentle,  pleasant- 
looking  people,  small  in  stature,  rather  fair  in  complexion,  with  their 
hair  cut  short  in  a  fringe  over  the  forehead ;  they  had  melodious  voices 
and  pleasant  smiles.  I  wrote  down  a  few  words  of  their  language,  which 
to  a  certain  extent  resembles  the  Singpho,  about  five  per  cent,  of  the 
words  being  identical.  The  Kunnungs  are  famous  for  their  "daos" 
(short  swords),  which  they  manufacture  from  iron  extracted  by  them 
from  the  ore  found  near  the  Nam-Tis4n  river.  They  also  extract  silver 
from  ore  which  they  obtain  eight  days*  journey  to  the  north-east  of 
Langnu.  We  brought  back  a  small  lump  of  silver  ore,  which,  when 
assayed  at  the  Bombay  mint,  was  found  to  yield  12^  ozs.  to  the  ton. 
Afterwards,  when  we  visited  the  chief  raja  of  the  Kamptis  at  '*  Padao," 
he  said  if  we  would  visit  his  country  again  he  would  send  us  to  the 
silver  mines  ;  and  he  seemed  anxious  to  obtain  the  services  of  men  who 
could  extract  the  silver  from  the  ore. 

On  the  20th  March  we  started  for  the  western  branch  of  the  Irawadi, 
called  by  the  Singphos  M'Li-kha  ("  Kha  "  being  Singpho  for  river),  and 
by  the  Kamptis  the  Nam-kiu  (**  Nam  "  being  Kampti  for  river)  (the 
Singphos  and  Kamptis  respectively  describe  the  Irawadi  diiring  its 
whole  course  to  the  sea  as  M*Li-kha  and  Nam-kiu). 

After  crossing  the  Nam-lung  river  by  means  of  canoes  formed  out  of 
hollowed  trees,  we  kept  along  the  left  bank  of  the  river  for  six  miles, 
until  we  came  to  a  large  stockaded  town  called  "  Langdao."  The 
people  objected  to  our  going  through  their  lands  to  the  river ;  but  after 
an  interview  with  the  raja,  with  whom  we  shook  hands  (somewhat  to 
his  astonishment),  we  were  allowed  to  proceed,  and  three  miles  further 
on  we  struck  the  Nam-kiu,  the  western  branch  of  the  Irawadi  just  above 
where  it  is  joined  by  the  Nam-lung.  Here  wo  found  the  river  about 
85  yards  wide,  and  not  deep,  in  no  place  more  than  five  feet.  The  mouth 
of  the  Nam-lung  is  in  E.  long.  97°  38'  30"  and  N.  lat.  27°  15'  30", 
and  1630  feet  above  the  sea-level. 

The  river  up  stream  was  very  pretty,  and  Woodthorpe  made  a 
charming  sketch  of  it,  with  its  "  couch  of  snows,"  the  lofty  Nam-kiu 
mountains  to  the  north  as  a  background.  On  inquiring,  we  were 
informed  that  to  the  east,  three  days'  journey  off",  a  river  called  the  Nam- 
Tisdn  flowed  parallel  to  the  Nam-kiu,  joining  it  lower  down.  Between 
the  Nam-kiu  and  the  Nam-Tisan  we  could  see  a  mountain  range  which 
was  called  by  the  Singphos  T-chet  Biim.  To  the  east  of  the  Nam- 
Tisan  (or  Disan),  .and  five  days*  journey  from  that  river,  another  range 
existed  called  the  Nogmiin  or  Noikon  (from  this  range  the  Kunnungs 
obtain  the  silver  ore),  to  the  east  of  which  flowed  the  Nam-Dumai 
or  Fhungmai.    This  river  the  Kamptis  said  was  the  same  size  as  the 


S2 


EXPEDITION  FROM  UPPER  ASSAM  TO  THE  IRAWADl, 


Nam-kiu»  that  it  waa  formed  by  three  Btreams  which  had  their  origm  in 
the  Nam-kiu  moiintaiuB^  which  wo  saw  to  the  north  and  north*east  of  the 
place  where  we  stood  {viz.  on  tho  right  hank  of  the  Xam-kin,  just  above 
the  mouth  of  tho  Nam-lung).  Tho  Kamptis  told  ns  that  all  the  branches 
of  tho  Irawadi  have  Iheir  origin  in  the  snowy  range  to  the  north  and 
north-east.  The  Kamptis  mid  that  some  times  a  trading  party  went  to 
China  (-which  tho}'  called  *' Khe  Moung  "),  that  the  journey  to^ik  thorn 
on©  monih  and  eight  days,  that  they  had  to  cross  in  boats  two  big 
rivers  (after  having  crossed  the  Nani-kioj  the  Xam*Tisan,  and  Nam- 
Dnniai).  The  traders  bought  opium  in  China  at  tho  rate  of  lOs,  ^d,  a 
pound,  but  they  said  it  was  not  so  gocvd  as  the  Assam  opium,  'which  they 
could  ohtiin  after  a  joTiraey  which  only  took  them  half  the  time  it  did 
to  go  to  China ;  the  opium  of  Assam  cost  them»  however^  about  30*.  a 
ponnd,  The  Kamptis  are  not  such  inveterate  consumers  of  the  juioe  of 
the  poppy  as  the  Bingjdios,  We  found  that  the  drug  answered  very  well 
in  the  place  of  money  when  we  bought  rice  for  our  party  ;  but,  of  course, 
it  was  very  sticky  stufiF  to  cut  up  and  divide  into  small  particles,  as  e^ich 
individual  only  brought  ua  a  few  pounds  of  rice,  and  we  had  to  pay 
each  person  separatel}^  at  the  rate  of  a  penny  a  pound ;  it  was  a  tedious 
business^  and  as  the  people  would  only  transact  business  with  the  two 
white  men  personally,  we  were  not  sorry  when  the  day's  bartering  was 
over.  We  found  the  Kamptis  strictly  honest  in  their  doulingsi,  and  if 
we  paid  a  person  for  ten  pounds  of  rice  and  only  received  five  pounds 
at  tho  time,  he  or  she  would  go  back  to  the  towm,  and  bring  us  the 
balance  without  fail  later  on. 

After  we  had  visited  the  Irawadi  we  returned  to  Lunguu  very  tired, 
as  the  day  hati  been  ex  cestui  vely  hot,  and  I  suppose  wo  felt  the  heat 
more,  having  recently  been  travelling  at  high  altitudesi  between  700Q 
and  9000  feet;  the  descent  to  IGOO  feet  was  somewhat  trying.  At  night 
wt3  were  disturbed  from  our  slumbers  by  some  armed  men  who  came 
yelling  into  our  camp.  We  turned  out,  weapons  in  hand,  thinking  that 
the  Kamptis  had  changed  their  minds  about  us ;  but  discovered  that  our 
midnight  visitors  were  messengers  sent  by  Lukun,  the  chief  raja  of  tho 
Kamptis,  ami  that  he^invited  us  **  to  repair  to  the  metropolis."  To  pay 
Lukun  a  visit  at  Padao  was  just  what  we  wanted.  So  we  started  off  the 
following  morning,  taking  two  Gburkas  with  us.  After  being  ferried 
over  the  Nani4ung  our  route  hiy  along  a  level  valley  covered  with 
ghort  grass  and  dotted  here  and  there  with  clumps  of  trees ;  the  valley  19 
divided  into  three  plateaus,  Langnu  being  on  the  most  southern,  and 
Manchi  on  the  most  northern.  In  the  old  maps  Langnu  and  Lang-dao 
were  put  down  under  the  names  of  Mung  Lung,  and  Padao  (which  is  now 
the  capital),  was  called  Mung  Kamptl  (the  meaning  of  which  is  simply 
the  Kampti  country).  The  extreme  length  of  the  valley  is  25  miles^ 
and  the  average  breadth  about  12  miles ;  and  the  height  above  sea-level 
varies  from  1500  to  1800  feet.     The  number  of  inhabitants  does  not 


AND  RETURN  OVER  THE  PATKOI  RANGE.  33 

exceed  12,000,  and  they  are  divided  amongst  13  villages,  the  most 
powerful  of  which  are  Padao  and  Manchi.  The  soil  of  the  valley  is  very 
fertile,  and  very  large  crops  of  rice  are  grown,  the  rice  being  stored  in 
excellent  granaries.  Blood  feuds  between  members  of  different  com- 
munities are  not  unfrequent,  and  the  Kamptis  seem  to  have  a  lively 
^read  of  the  surrounding  Singphos ;  otherwise  the  Kamptis  lead  a  quiet, 
peaceful  life,  and  are  certainly  the  most  intelligent  and  best  behaved 
people  on 'the  north-east  frontier.  The  Eunnungs,  who  inhabit  the 
lower  ranges  in  the  vicinity  of  the  valley,  are  nominally  the  vassals  of 
the  Kamptis,  to  whom  they  pay  tribute. 

After  a  nine  mile  walk,  we  found  a  large  crowd  of  armed  Kamptis 
awaiting  our  arrival,  and  the  nephew  of  the  raja  who  had  brought  a 
couple  of  ponies  for  our  use.  The  carved  wooden  saddles  were  most 
uncomfortable,  and  stirrups  very  tiring  (probably  made  to  fit  the  naked 
big  toe  of  a  Kampti)  ;  however,  as  our  friends  evidently  intended  to  do  us 
honour,  we  mounted,  and  in  noisy  procession  went  to  Fadao.  Muskets 
were  discharged,  gongs  beaten,  and  banners  and  gilt  umbrellas  were 
waved  overhead  by  an  enthusiastic  escort.  En  route  we  passed  some 
small  Buddhist  temples  with  gilt  domes,  under  which  were  enshrined 
the  usual  images  of  Gautama.  Arrived  near  the  capital  we  were  met 
by  the  raja's  two  sons,  who  informed  us  that  their  father  was  at  his 
country  residence  on  the  Irawadi,  that  he  had  given  orders  for  us  to  be 
well  received  and  that  he  would  visit  us.  We  tried  to  get  a  little  rest, 
but  closely  surrounded  as  we  were  by  a  dense  crowd  of  about  2000 
people  of  both  sexes  and  all  ages,  rest  was  impossible.  I  was  veiy 
unwell,  the  sun  having  affected  me  the  previous  day,  so  crept  into 
our  little  tent  to  lie  \iown,  whilst  Woodthorpe,  with  his  usual  good 
nature,  tried  to  draw  the  crowd  off  mo  by  getting  out  our  stock  in  trade 
of  toys,  &c. 

Amongst  our  toys,  we  found  that  a  dancing  doll  with  golden  hair, 
who  (when  she  was  wound  up)  fired  off  a  pistol,  was  the  prime 
favourite,  the  Kampti  ladies  being  very  curious  in  examining  the 
various  items  of  the  doll's  dress ;  a  growling  bear,  and  a  jumping  frog 
were  also  in  great  request. 

We  paid  several  visits  to  the  town  of  Fadao,  which  was  surrounded 
by  a  strong  stockade.  The  raja's  dwelling  was  inside  an  inner 
stockade,  and  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  a  new  palace  (save  the  mark  I) 
was  being  erected  for  the  potentate. 

On  the  day  following  our  arrival  the  raja  was  brought  in  with  great 
pomp  from  his  residence  on  the  Nam-kiu  river.  He  was  a  fine-looking 
shrewd  old  fellow,  with  a  certain  amount  of  natural  dignity,  and  seemed 
to  have  considerable  authority  over  his  people.  Before  our  departure 
Woodthorpe  made  a  capital  sketch  of  the  chief  and  coloured  it ;  the  raja 
asked  that  it  might  be  presented  to  our  Queen  concerning  whom  we  had 
told  him,  dilating  on  the  immense  power  she  possessed,  and  trying  to 

Ko.  I.— Jan.  1887.]  d 


EXPEDITION  FROM  UPPER  ASSAM  TO  THE  IRAWADJ. 


give  Mm  an  idea  of  the  vast  extent  of  country  sbe  ruled  over  in  all  parts 
of  tlie  world. 

The  open  air  darbar  whicli  was  held  in  our  honour  was  a  pretty  and 
curious,  if  not  a  very  iropoBing,  spectacle.  The  chief  raja  sat  cross- 
legged  on  a  curious  canred  wooden  couch »  which  was  flanked  by  gilt 
representatious  of  dragons  and  covered  with  a  crimson  cloth.  All  the 
people  were  decked  out  in  their  bruvest  apparel.  Nnmerona  large 
Burmese  gilt  umbrellas  were  held  aloft  over  the  inner  circle,  w^hich 
consisted  of  Woodthorpe,  myself,  our  two  little  Gurkha  soldiers,  and  the 
raja's  party*  We  were  surrounded  by  over  a  hundred  Karri ptis,  armed 
with  flint-lock  muskets,  behind  whom  stood  dense  rows  of  apearmen. 
The  master  of  the  ceremonies,  who  was  gorgeous  in  a  Chinese  dress, 
resplendent  with  dragons'  heads  and  flowers,  amused  us  very  much. 
Armi'd  with  a  long  stick,  he  went  round  during  the  time  the  darbar 
lasted,  tapping  with  no  light  hand  the  heads  of  the  frtait  rows  of  spec- 
tators, making  them  sit  down  so  that  those  behind  could  see.  The 
"long  stick  in  waiting**  did  not  seem  to  discriminate  between  the 
bondmen  and  the  free  in  the  force  of  the  blows  he  administered,  but  I 
must  do  him  the  justice  to  say  that  he  **  lightened  his  hand  "  consider- 
ably w^hen  tapping  the  neat,  prettily  decorated  head-dreeses  of  the 
Kanipti  ladies  who  were  naixed  up  with  the  warriors.  Presents  were 
exchanged,  and  questions  asked  on  both  sides.  We  asked  again  about 
the  rivera  to  the  east,  but  the  K  am  ptis  only  gave  ua  the  earn©  informa- 
tion they  did  near  Langdao.  The  raja  said  if  we  could  stop  he  would 
send  UH  with  guides  to  the  silver  mines,  which  lie  said  were  eight  days* 
journey  to  the  north-eaRt,  Unfortunately  we  could  not  stay,  as  we  knew 
it  would  be  very  diflicult  to  get  back  to  Assam  oc  it  was. 

Our  intention  was  to  start  at  once  and  can-y  out  our  original  intention 
of  striking  south  from  Kiiniki,  and  crossing  the  Patkoi  range  into  the 
Khyendwen  valley,  and  re-crosbing  the  Patkoi  range  into  Assam,  near 
the  NoDgyong  Lake.  This  programme  we  carried  out,  but  with  great 
diffieidty,  owing  to  the  lateness  of  the  season  and  the  consequent 
increase  in  the  size  of  the  rivers*  Had  we  remained  any  longer  in  the 
Kampti  country  we  should  have  had  to  remain  there  for  another  eight 
munths.  The  Kampti  chiefs  treated  us  most  kindly,  and  said  they 
would  always  he  glad  to  see  us  again.  We  returned  to  Langnu,  and  on 
the  26th  March  commenced  our  return  journey.  Before  our  departure 
the  Buddhist  priest,  with  two  of  his  acolytes,  came  to  wish  ua  God- 
speed, bringing  with  them  rice  and  flowera,  which  they  scattered  before 
us,  and  chanted  prayers  to  the  efl'ect  that  wv  mi^ht  have  a  safe  and 
speedy  journey  back,  that  Singpho  robbers  might  not  molest  us  on  our 
path,  and  that  our  sick  coolies  might  recover,  W^e  wore  both  much 
pleused  with  this  attention  on  the  part  of  the  Buddhist  priesta.  The 
Eaja  of  Langnu  insisted  on  sending  his  brother  and  half-a-dozen 
mufiketeere  to  accompany  us  for  the  fii'st  three  inarches  to  protect  ue 


AND  RETURN  OV£R  TH£  PATKOI  RANGE.  35 

against  the  Singphos,  who,  the  Kamptis  asserted,  were  always  on  the 
watch  to  waylay  travellers.  With  the  exception  of  having  our  camp 
invaded  by  a  herd  of  wild  elephants  one  night,  and  the  usual  difficulties 
of  crossing  flooded  rivers,  &c. — difficulties  which  Woodthorpe's  engineer- 
ing skill  and  the  good  work  of  our  Gurkhas  soon  disposed  of — we 
arrived,  on  the  ninth  day  after  leaving  the  Kampti  country,  at  Kiimki 
again.  We  were  most  fortunate,  just  in  time  in  crossing  the  Diyung 
liver,  as  an  hour  after  we  had  crossed,  the  river,  which  was  seventy 
yards  wide,  became  unfordable,  and,  I  believe,  remained  so  for  three 
weeks.  On  arrival  at  Kumki  we  found,  as  had  been  previously  arranged, 
that  the  bulk  of  the  Survey  camp  had  gone  down  the  banks  of  the 
Diyung  to  Indong,  a  small  guard  with  some  supplies  being  left  for  us. 
The  Diyung  being  in  a  very  flooded  state,  the  party,  under  the  able 
leadership  of  Mr.  Ogle,  had  (we  afterwards  learnt)  a  very  rough  time  of 
it,  and  all  the  three  Englishmen  of  the  party,  Messrs.  Ogle,  La  Touohe, 
and  Grant,  had  vied  with  each  other  in  helping  the  sick  coolies  over  the 
dangerous  places  on  the  route. 

I  must  relate  one  incident,  showing  what  real  good  men  Gurkhas 
are.  A  non-oommissioned  officer  of  the  44th  Eegiment  (Gurkha  Light 
Infantry)  who  had  been  sent  with  three  soldiers  in  charge  of  some  rice 
for  us,  to  await  our  return  on  the  Assam  side  of  the  Chanka  Pass,  the 
man  thinking  something  must  have  happened  (we  were  a  few  days 
overdue),  took  his  little  party  over  the  snowy  pass,  and  was  on  his  way 
into  the  Kampti  country  to  aid  us  when  we  met  him. 

On  the  6th  of  April,  Woodthorpe  and  I  left  Kiimki  and  crossed  the 
Patkoi  range  at  an  altitude  of  5500  feet.  For  a  week  we  marched  down 
and  along  the  banks  of  the  Turong  river  (the  head  water  of  the 
Khyendwen) ;  the  route  was  a  very  bad  one,  principally  owing  to  the 
flooded  state  of  the  river,  which  compelled  us  either  to  wade  waist 
deep  in  the  torrent,  or  else  to  clamber  over  the  huge  slippery  boulders 
and  cut  footholds  along  the  face  of  steep  cliffs.  Each  day  the  rain 
descended  in  greater  torrents  and  the  leeches  became  if  possible  more 
ravenous.  We  noticed  that  there  were  hardly  any  birds  in  this  region, 
and  the  only  living  things  we  saw  were  a  couple  of  tigers,  several  deer, 
and  some  enormous  pythons  ;  there  were  a  great  quantity  of  indiarubber 
trees,  some  of  which  bore  signs  of  having  been  recently  tapped  by 
Nagas.  At  the  end  of  the  seven  days  we  came  to  a  small  collection  of 
Singpho  hamlets,  the  inhabitants  of  which  seemed  very  much  astonished 
at  seeing  us. 

We  hurried  on,  as  we  were  short  of  food,  and  could  surmise  what  a 
flooded  state  the  country  in  front  of  us  was  in.  On  the  third  day  after 
leaving  the  Singpho  villages,  which  are  situated  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Turong  river,  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  Loglai  river  (which  we 
had  to  bridge),  we  crossed  the  Nongyong  river,  partly  by  swimming 
and  partly  by  wading,  and  passing  by  a  piece  of  water  three-quarters  of 

D  2 


S8 


EXPEDITION  FROM  UPPER  ASSAM  TO  THE  IRAWADI, 


a  mile  long  and  half  a  mile  broad,  called  Nougyong  Lake  (wMch  has  been 
fully  described  and  accurately  sketched  by  a  Mr.  8.  Peal,  who  Tisited  it 
some  years  ago),  we  crossed  the  Patkoi  range  at  28G0  feet  above  sea- 
lerel,  and  once  more  were  in  Assam. 

For  the  next  three  days  we  waded  down  rivers  when  we  could,  and 
cut  our  way  through  the  dense  cano  jungle  when  we  could  not,  till  we 
were  brought  up  with  a  round  turn  by  a  deep  rapid  river  about  60  yards 
wide  ;  sle  we  had  no  food  left,  and  no  immediate  prospect  of  crossing  the 
river,  a  Gurkha  swam  across  to  bring  ua  assistance  from  our  party,  who 
were  at  Indong,  a  day*8  journey  off.  After  the  departure  of  our 
roeBBonger  we  set  to  work  to  make  rafts  of  plantain  trees  and  bamboofi, 
and  the  next  day  we  crossed  our  party  without  losing  a  man.  Wood- 
thorpe  (who  worked  one  of  the  rafts  backwards  and  forwards  himself) 
was  as  usual  most  indefatigable ;  even  our  phlegmatic  old  interpreter 
bestirred  himself  (seeing  that  starvation  was  imminent),  and  took 
the  whole  morning  to  make  a  raft  for  himself,  which  he  capsized  as 
soon  as  it  was  launched !  The  following  day  we  were  glad  to  meet  our 
Gwrkha  messenger,  who  was  accompanied  by  Dr.  Gmnt  with  supplies 
of  food»  and  on  arrival  at  the  Bihing  river,  which  was  now  about  half  a 
mile  wide,  we  found  the  other  members  of  our  party  ready  to  help  ua  to 
cross  with,  canoes  lashed  together.  The  river  roiio  so  rapidly  that  night, 
that  we  were  not  able  to  cross  for  three  days*  After  crossing  the  river 
Dihing  we  retraced  our  steps  to  Sadiya,  and  arrived  there  the  end  of 
April,  after  having  been  travelling  for  four  months  and  a  half. 

The  distance  from  Sadija  to  Padao,  tho  capital  of  the  Kampti  Shane, 
is  197  miles,  and  now  that  the  route  is  known  and  surveyed,  the  journey 
could  be  performed  in  three  weeks.  Owing  to  the  sparcity  of  inha- 
bitants on  this  route  and  tho  physical  difficulties  of  the  country,  I  should 
not  think  that  it  would  ever  do  as  a  possible  trade  route  to  China; 
however  interesting  it  might  be  to  revisit  the  Kampti s  with  a  view  of 
acquiring  more  geographical  knowledge  of  the  country  to  tho  noilh 
and  east. 

The  distance  from  Sadiya  over  the  Patkoi  range  and  via  Nongyong  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Loglai  river  (i.  e.  where  it  joins  the  Turong)  is  103 
miles,  and  the  journey  could  be  performed  in  ten  days ;  from  the  Loglai 
river  to  Mainla  via  Bisa  is  about  150  miles.  In  the  dry  season  the 
journey  from  Sadiya  to  Mainla  could  be  performed  in  three  weeks.  On 
this  route  there  are  very  few  inhabitants,  but  the  country  is  said  to  be 
easier  to  travel  over  than  the  route  to  the  Kampti  country.  The  distance 
from  Mainla  to  Bhamo  is  about  130  miles,  and  the  joui-ney  can  be  made 
in  native  boats  dow^n  the  Irawadi.  Mainla  is  a  Shan  town,  situated  on 
the  left  bank  of  tho  Pliungmai  river  (the  eastern  branch  of  the  Irawadi) 
at  its  Junction  with  tho  Nam-kiu  (the  western  branch). 

In  conclusion,  I  must  express  my  regret  that  my  old  friend  Colonel 
Wood  thorpe,  who  has  only  just  returned  to  India  with  the  Gilgit  Mission, 


AKD  RETURN  OVER  THE  PATKOI  RANGE*— DISCaSSION.  87 

was  not  able  to  write  and  read  yon  a  paper  on  the  jonmey  we  took 
together ;  be  woidd  have  been  able  to  give  yon  a  much  more  interesting 
account  of  the  country  and  people  we  saw.  I  cannot  do  better  than 
finish  by  quoting  and  heartily  endorsing  the  words  of  Col.  Godwin- 
Austen,  in  the  paper  read  before  the  British  Association  at  Aberdeen 
last  year :— "  CoL  Woodthorpe  possesses  all  the  qualifications  that  make 
the  successful  explorer.  Great  powers  of  endurance  and  observation,  zeal 
for  his  work,  brave  but  cautious,  a  talented  draughtsman,  and  last,  but 
not  least,  the  tact  to  make  himself  liked  by  the  people  of  the  country  " ; 
and  I  may  add,  by  all  those  who  have  had  the  pleasure  of  travelling 
with  him. 

After  the  reading  of  tbe  above, 

Colonel  YuLB  said  he  was  delighted  to  hear  the  testimony  which  Major 
Kacgregor  in  his  interesting  paper  had  home  with  regard  to  his  fellow-traveller, 
Cokmel  Woodthorpe ;  an  officer  with  whose  remarkahle  enterprises  the  speaker  had 
been  much  impressed  for  the  last  seven  or  eight  years.  Colonel  Woodthorpe  had 
made  several  remarkable  journeys  to  the  north-east  of  India,  but  his  explorations 
had  not  been  confined  to  that  region.  He  had  just  returned  from  a  journey  in  the 
extreme  north-west,  beyond  the  British  frontier,  thn>ugh  passes  which  had  never 
before  been  trodden  by  any  European.  Of  all  geographical  problems  in  Asia  which 
had  been  dealt  with  by  the  Society  for  many  years  past,  no  two  had  interested  him 
(Colonel  Yule)  more  than  those  relating  to  the  sources  of  the  Irawadi  and  the 
sooroes  of  the  Oxus.  Colonel  Woodthorpe  had  been  an  explorer  in  both  those 
r^ona.  The  result  of  his  last  exploration  in  the  Oxus  region  had  not  yet  been 
published,  and  he  believed  there  were  political  difficulties  in  the  way  of  their 
publication.  He  was  glad  also  to  hear  how  Major  Macgregor  had  spoken  of  one  whose 
name  perhaps  was  not  very  familiar  to  this  generation,  but  who  deserved  the  highest 
honour — Lieutenant  Wilcox.  Sixty  years  ago  there  was  no  more  promising  explorer 
or  British  traveller  in  existence,  but  his  career  was  short,  and  he  had  been  almost 
forgotten  by  those  who  were  not  specially  called  upon  to  study  the  results  of  his  travelr>. 
But  every  man  who  had  occasion  to  examine  the  many  problems  connected  with  the 
sources  of  the  Irawadi  must  be  familiar  with  the  name  of  Wilcox.  Some  years  ago, 
when  the  everlasting  question  of  the  source  of  the  Irawadi  was  discussed  at  a 
meeting  of  the  Society,  a  gentleman  who  took  the  heterodox  view  spoke  disparagingly 
of  Wilcox,  because  apparently  Wilcox*s  facts  were  contrary  to  his  theories.  On  that 
occasion  he  (Colonel  Yulu)  was  called  on  to  speak,  and  he  said  a  few  words  on  the 
subject  which  he  might  appropriately  quote  now.  "  Wilcox  was  not  a  man  who 
ought  to  be  treated  as  this  gentleman  had  treated  him.  He  was  one  of  the  most  intel- 
ligent and  competent  of  writers  on  geographical  subjects,  as  well  as  a  great  traveller. 
No  one  could  read  his  papers  in  the  '  Asiatic  Researches'  without  being  struck  by 
Ilia  acuteness  and  accomplishments.*'  He  was  therefore  glad  to  hear  bow  thoroughly 
lieut.  Wilcox  had  been  appreciated  by  the  most  recent  travellers  in  that  region. 
There  was  another  point  more  personal  to  himself  which  he  should  like  to  call 
attention  to.  Major  Macgregor  had  spoken  of  the  excessive  moisture  of  the  region 
through  which  he  travelled,  and  the  enormous  discharge  of  water  which  that  must 
send  down  not  only  towards  the  valley  of  Assam,  but  also  towards  the  Irawadi.  On 
the  occasion  to  which  he  had  alluded,  dealing  with  some  of  the  assumptions  that  had 
been  put  forward,  he  (Colonel  Yule)  said,  •*  It  was  vain  to  assume  quantities  of  rain 
in  a  country  about  which  there  were  no  data.  It  was  very  possible  that  the  rainfall 
near  the  sources  of  the  Irawadi  was  very  excessive,  the  position  being  like  the  end 


EXPEDITION  FROM  UPPER  ASSAM  TO  THE  IKAWADI, 


of  a  great  fuunel  Colouel  Pit  jevalsky  had  ascertained  a  fact  which  was  entirely 
new  to  geographers  and  pliysical  philosophers.  Where  the  Hoang-ho  left  the 
mountains  forming  the  north-ivoat  boundary  of  China,  he  canae  suddenly  from 
the  dry  steppes  of  the  north  upon  a  moiiutaki  country  of  the  most  extra- 
ordinary  moisture;  and  further  south  Abb6  Davjtl,  who  went  up  the  Yang- 
tsze-kiang  into  the  eastera  part  of  Szechuen,  came  upon  a  continnation  of  the 
same  country.  He  stated  that  if  a  man  fired  a  ^n  ho  brought  down  a  heavy 
shower  of  rata  !  The  supposition  of  excessive  rainfall  north  of  Kampti  was  very 
probable,  from  what  was  knoun  of  the  Kasia  Hills,  where  the  rain  was  moat 
excessive^  He  thought  it  very  possible  that  the  key  (o  the  extraordiuary  discharge 
of  the  Irawadi  might  he  that  there  was  an  extraordinary  rainfall  among  the  hillB, 
But  the  question  might  be  considered  from  another  point  of  view.  The  Mogouug 
river-mouth  was  the  highest  point  on  the  Irawadi  that  had  been  reached  by  any 
European  travellers  fram  Burma,  Colonel  Han  nay,  Dr,  Bayfield,  and  others  were 
all  obliged  to  leave  the  Irawadi  there,  and  to  go  towards  the  Assam  hills.  They 
were  all  struck  by  its  magnitude  at  that  point,  as  was  also  Dr.  Griffith,  who  was 
perha]\^  the  best  observer  among  them.  But  many  years  ago  he  (Colonel  Yule) 
calculated  the  basin  of  the  Irawadi  above  that  point,  and  he  found  it  to  be  about  the 
same  as  that  of  the  Khine  at  Cologne.  And  it  was  easy  to  imagine  what  a 
tremendous  flood  the  Rhine  would  he  if  it  were  fed  by  only  one-half  the  rmnfall 
of  the  Kasia  Hills !  '*  That  was  a  long  shot,  and  he  was  rather  pleased  to  leani  from 
Major  Macgregor  that  it  htt  the  mark. 

General  J.  T.  Walker,  b.e.,  said  it  was  a  great  gratification  to  him  to  hear  such 
an  interesting  account  of  the  expedition,  and  to  find  that  Major  Macgregor  had  written 
80  kindly  and  enthusiastically  of  his  old  friend,  Colonel  Woodthorpe,  who  was  one  of 
the  ablest  and  best  ofikers  in  a  Department  which  contained  many  able  and  excellent 
men.  It  would  have  been  a  great  pleasure  to  Colonel  Woodthorpe  to  have  read  a 
ITaper  on  the  subject  himself  to  the  Society  j  but  he  happened  to  be  one  of  those 
willing  horses  whom  Governments  were  very  glad  to  have  an  opportunity  of  riding, 
and  no  sooner  had  he  returned  from  his  exi>edition  to  the  Upper  Irawadi  than  he  received 
a  telegram  asking  him  if  he  would  he  willing  to  accompany  Colonel  Lockiiart'a 
expedition  from  Gilgit  to  the  Hindu  Kush  range  and  Afghanistan.  The  authorities 
knew  all  he  ha<:l  gone  through,  and  they  had  some  qualms  of  conscience  as  to  whether 
it  was  quite  fair  to  him  to  send  him  off  immediately  on  another  arduous  expedi- 
tion ;  so  they  telegraphed  to  inquire  whether  he  felt  up  to  going.  Of  course,  he 
replied  that  he  was  quite  ready  to  go,  and  he  joined  the  expedition  very  speedily; 
but  I  have  been  told  that  on  his  arrival  Colonel  Lockhart,  seeing  how  worn  and  wan 
he  was,  said  he  was  afraid  a  mistake  had  been  made  in  asking  liim  to  come.  How- 
ever, it  turned  out  that  so  far  from  being  a  mistake,  it  was  a  good  thing  for  Colonel 
Woodthorpe.  The  bracing  climate  of  Afghanistan  ami  the  Hindu  Kush  did  him  a 
great  deal  of  good,  and  was  as  good  for  him  as  a  visit  to  his  native  country.  He 
had  done  admirable  work  on  that  frontier.  Twice  he  had  cros.sal  the  Hindu  Kush, 
and  although  ptolitical  reasons  prevented  the  immediate  publication  of  his  work,  it 
was  to  be  hoped  that  it  would  be  published  eventually.  No  sooner  had  he  returned 
to  Simla  than  he  volunteered  to  go  to  Assam  and  explore  the  proposed  line  of  railroad 
down  to  Bamo  in  Upper  Burma.  Ilie  Government  decided  on  postpouing  that  under- 
taking for  the  present,  but  they  gladly  availed  themselves  of  his  services,  and  sent 
him  to  Burma^  where  he  now  is. 

The  line  of  country  throu;ih  which  Colonel  Woodthorpe  and  Major  Macgregor 
passed  was  ncit  an  easy  one  in  which  to  carry  on  a  continuous  survey,  but  the  jjositioa 
of  the  Irawadi  and  its  distance  from  Sadiya  were  fixed  by  Wilcox  sixty  years  ago 
within  two  miles  of  the  position  recently  determined  by  Woodthorpe,    A  year  and 


J 


AND  RETURN  OVER  THE  PATKOI  RANGE.— DISCUSSION.  39 

a  half  ago  Mr.  Gordon  read  an  elaborate  paper  to  the  Society  in  which  he  endeavoured 
to  prove  that  the  Sanpo  river  of  Tibet  came  down  into  the  Irawadi,  and  was  in  fact 
the  upper  source  of  that  river.  He  carried  it  over  a  course  which  was  almost  pre- 
cisely identical  with  a  range  of  mountains  indicated  on  the  wall-map  illustrating 
Major  Ma<^egor's  paper,  and  then  down  into  the  Irawadi,  crossing  the  course  of  the 
Lohit  Brahmaputra,  as  given  by  Wilcox  from  native  information.  Mr.  Gordon  said 
he  was  quite  ready  to  accept  everything  that  Wilcox  had  done  personally,  but  not 
what  he  got  from  native  information.  Only  a  very  few  weeks  elapsed  before 
Mr.  Gordon's  conjectures  were  conclusively  negatived.  Lieut.  Needham  travelled 
from  Assam  up  to  Rima,  and  showed  that  the  eastern  branch  of  the  Brahmaputra 
flowed  continuously  from  Rima  into  Upper  Assam.  It  was  therefore  perfectly  im- 
possible that  any  river  could  cross  this  region  and  pass  into  the  Irawadi.  A  second 
corroboration  was  obtained  by  the  work  of  Colonel  Woodthorpe  and  Major  Macgregor, 
who  had  reached  Mr.  Gordon's  Irawadi,  and  found  it  only  60  yards  broad,  and  hot 
more  than  five  feet  deep,  rising  in  hill  ranges  immediately  to  the  north,  and  not  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  Sanpo,  which  rose  1500  miles  away  in  Western  Tibet.  These  were 
very  valuable  geographical  facts,  and  he  was  glad  to  find  that  his  old  friend  Colonel 
Woodthorpe  had  been  able  to  throw  some  light  on  the  question  of  the  sources  of  the 
Inwadi. 

Dr.  G.  Watt  said  that  Manipur,  through  which  he  had  travelled,  was  a  small 
valley  surrounded  by  a  series  of  mountain  ranges,  and  to  reach  it  from  Cachar  nine 
nmges  had  to  be  passed  over,  crossiog  in  most  cases  the  same  river,  which  flowed 
backwards  and  forwards  in  a  most  cirouitous  way.  In  the  valley  of  Manipur  the 
rainfall  was  only  about  39  inches,  or  the  average  of  Great  Britain,  but  17  miles  off 
on  the  mountains  which  formed  the  north-east  ranges,  the  rainfall  was  as  much  as 
120  inches,  and  towards  the  Naga  country  to  the  north  it  became  greater  and 
greater  in  certain  limit  tracts.  In  the  Rhasia  Hills  600  inches  might  fall  in  one 
place,  and  20  miles  off  only  50  inches.  Such  transitions  were  very  frequent.  The 
word  Naga  was  applied  to  many  of  the  races  along  the  north-eastern  frontier  of 
Assam.  From  some  of  the  things  exhibited  to  the  meeting  he  fancied  that  Major 
Macgregor  and  his  party  had  got  into  one  or  two  of  the  extreme  ends  of  the  Naga 
country  proper,  probably  a  branch  of  the  Angami  Nagas.  The  kilt  on  the  table  was  an 
Angami  one — the  symbol  of  a  triple  murderer.  When  a  man  took  the  head  of  one 
enemy  he  was  allowed  to  wear  one  row  of  shells  on  his  kilt;  when  he  killed  a  second 
he  might  wear  two  rows,  and  when  he  killed  a  third  he  might  wear  three  rows,  but 
after  that  no  more  rows  of  shells  were  added  to  the  kilt  Another  specimen  on  the 
table  was  the  **  Y .C."  of  the  Angami  Nagas,  which  was  worn  by  their  heroes.  It  differs 
very  little  in  style  from  that  met  with  in  the  south-west,  the  head-quarters  of  the 
Angamis.  The  country  of  the  Angami  Nagas  was  a  little  to  the  south-west  of  the 
Singpho  country.  One  of  their  peculiarities  was  the  social  system  which  prevailed 
in  their  villages.  A  village  was  divided  by  one  or  two  walls  into  different  sections, 
or  khilSf  and  each  section  was  occupied  by  a  distinct  branch  of  the  Angami  Naga 
family,  often  speaking  different  dialects,  never  intermarrying,  and  knowing  nothing 
of  eadi  other,  but  occasionally  fighting  with  one  another,  and  still  they  were  only 
diidded  by  walls.  A  common  house  was  erected  at  the  meeting  points  of  the  wall, 
and  there  the  young  men  of  the  village  watched  night  and  day  what  the  members  of 
the  other  kheU  were  doing. 

One  point  with  regard  to  the  rainfall  was  worthy  a  passing  remark.  Nothing 
in  Manipur  struck  him  as  a  botanist  more  than  the  remarkable  transition  of  vegeta- 
tion in  that  Fmall  region.  Major  Macgregor  had  alluded  to  the  oak  and  the 
rhododendron,  but  he  (Dr.  Watt)  gathered  twelve  or  more  species  of  oaks,  many  of 
which  were  new  to  science,  and  ten  or  twelve  species  of  rhododendron  in  Manipur 


40 


EXPEDITION  FROM  UPPER  ASSAM  TO  TEE  IRAWADI, 


alone*  It  would  be  extremeiy  intoresting  to  know  wliat  porticular  oaks  tinJ:' 
j^hododendrons  the  recent  expct^ition  came  across*  One  of  the  rhododendrons  in  tbe 
Kaga  Hills  was  fonnd  in  the  Himalayas  by  Sir  Joseph  Hooker,  and  it  was  named 
after  a  distinf^ished  officer,  Bhododendron  FaloomrL  This  specJes  was  nowher& 
met  with  in  the  immense  tract  of  country  between  the  Naga  Hilla  aod  Sikkira,  There 
was  alflo  the  Bhododtndrou  DalhauBejt,  an  ephiphytic  rhododendron  which  grew  on 
a  hill  30  miles  north  of  Darjeeling,  When  he  went  up  to  the  Naga  Hills  he  found 
these  species  throughout  tbe  whole  country,  at  an  altitude  of  about  fiOOO  to  8000  feet, 
aod  these  rhododendrons  never  occur  in  Sikkim  below  10,000  to  13,000  feet.  There 
were  many  instances  of  plants  falling  in  their  altitude  as  the  traveller  passed  to  tho 
east  and  south-east  from  Sikkim,  until  at  Moulmein  a  rhododendron  was  found 
growing  near  the  sea,  a  circumstance  which  was  not  met  with  in  any  other  part  of 
Asia.  Primrosea  showed  the  same  tendency  to  falling  in  their  altitude  in  tho 
direction  indicated.  He  was  inclined  to  think  that  there  was  something  in  that 
region  which*  apart  from  pure  geography,  was  of  vital  interest.  Saramett,  which 
was  under  13,000  feet  high,  the  natives  said  had  snow  all  the  year  round,  whereas 
on,  the  Himalaya  the  lowest  point  on  which  snow  occurs  is  17^000  feet  He  himself 
was  on  the  shoulder  of  Sarameti  in  May,  and  it  was  then  covered  mth  snow^  and  in 
April,  when  he  went  to  the  top  of  Japvo,  in  corojiany  with  the  Chief  Commissioner 
of  Assam,  he  enjoyed  snowkilting  with  one  or  two  companions  at  an  altitude  of 
9000  feet  aixjve  the  sea.  In  Manipur  the  whole  valley,  3000  feet  high,  was  covered 
with  hoar-frost  in  December.  He  thought  this  was  a  point  of  very  great  im- 
portance, and  one  which  should  be  thoroughly  inveEti?;ated  ;  what  was  the  cause  of 
this  falling  of  altitude  in  the  vegetation?  Major  Macgregor  had  tmvelled  with 
CJolonel  Woodthorpe  and  Mr.  Ogle ;  with  the  latter  gentleman,  he  (Dr.  Watt)  had 
had  the  pleasure  of  sojoumin|[;  for  three  or  four  months  in  the  Naga  country^ 
and  the  officers  of  the  Burma  Manipur  Expedition,  so  ably  conducted  by  Colonel  J. 
Johnstone,  hatl  obtained  a  good  deal  of  information,  but  much  still  remained  to  be 
done,  not  only  in  settling  the  head-streams  of  the  Irawadi,  but  in  exploring  the 
many  other  points  of  interest  in  that  region* 

Mr.  J.  Annak  Bryce  said  his  experience  of  those  regions  was  at  a  lower  levf  1 
than  that  described  by  Major  Macgregor.  But  there  were  one  or  two  points  with 
regard  to  which  he  thought  some  information  was  desirable.  He  wished  to  ask 
Major  Macgregor,  if  it  ever  became  necessary  for  the  Government  of  India  to  have  a 
railway  from  Assam  to  Burma,  at  what  point  his  experience  would  suggest  that  it 
should  be  constructed.  Another  question  he  desired  to  ask  was  whether  he  thought 
a  trade  would  ever  be  develoj^ed  between  the  upper  regions  of  the  Irawadi  and  the 
vidley  of  Assam  ?  Reference  had  lieen  made  to  the  Singi>ho»  trading  in  indiarubber, 
and  he  would  like  to  know  if  that  and  the  other  articles  produced  in  the  upper  valley 
uf  the  Irawadi  at  present  found  their  way  down  to  the  lower  reaches  of  the  river,  or 
across  the  Patkoi  range  into  Assam,  Mr.  Gordon  in  his  theory  with  regard  to  tbe 
sources  of  the  Irawadi  entirely  underestimated  the  actual  facts.  The  river  Linwin 
rose  to  an  enormous  height  during  tho  rainy  season,  to  40  and  50  and  60  feet  above 
the  dry  eeiison  level,  and  yet  Mr,  Gordon  in  his  discussion  of  the  question  assumed 
that  the  rainfall  on  the  Lin  win  was  tit7. 

Major  Macgregor  said  it  would  be  very  difEcuU  to  construct  a  railway  from 
Assam  to  Burma,  but  from  Makum,  where  there  was  now  a  station,  it  was  not 
impoesiblo  to  make  a  railway  over  the  Patkoi  Pass  vil  the  Nongyong  Lake  to  Maiula. 
It  was  not  impracticable  to  do  that,  but  at  the  same  time  ho  considered  it  very 
difficult.  He  did  not  consider  that  the  Kamti  Shan  country  would  be  a  good  trade 
route  to  China,  The  only  trade  i-oute  that  could  be  established  would  be  over  the 
Patkoi  range,  which  could  be  crossed  at  3000  feet,  and  so  on  to  Main  la,  from  whence 


AND  RETURN  OVER  THE  PATKOI  RANGE.— DISCUSSION.  41 

he  believed  a  fortnight'*  journey  would  take  the  traveller  into  Yunnan,  where  there 
might  be  some  trade,  but  he  was  not  sufficiently  acquainted  with  that  region  to  say 
whether  there  was  much  trade  or  not.  Most  of  tiie  country  through  which  the 
railway  would  pass  was  very  desolate.  With  reference  to  Mr.  Bryce*s  question 
about  the  destination  of  indiarubber  and  other  articles  produced  in  the  upper  valley 
of  the  Irawadi,  Major  Macgregor  stated  that  at  present  all  articles  were  taken  iuto 
Assam  where  there  was  a  settled  government  and  a  good  market,  and  were  shipped 
vi&  the  Brahmaputra  and  Dhubri  line  of  railway  to  Calcutta. 

Mr.  Holt  Hallbtt  said  that  Mr.  Colquhoun  and  himself  had  proposed  the  con- 
nection between  India  and  Burma,  so  as  to  join  the  Indian  with  the  Burmese 
railways^  and  did  not  propose  the  construction  of  a  railway  over  the  terrible  hills,  to 
the  east  of  the  Upper  Irawadi,  into  China.  Their  route  to  China  lay  in  a  north-east 
direction,  starting  from  Maulraain,  a  seaport  at  the  mouth  of  the  Salween  river. 
The  Burmese  railways  were  now  being  -constructed  to  Mandalay,  from  thence  they 
could  be  extended  to  Bhamo,  and  they  certainly  would  be  before  long.  From  Bhamo 
they  propose  that  the  line  shall  be  extended  through  the  Tsenbo  defile,  which  lies 
five  miles  to  the  north,  and  is  20  miles  in  length.  This  defile  narrows  the  river 
Irawadi  in  one  place  to  50  yards,  and  could  be  easily  crossed  at  some  convenient 
point  by  the  railway.  From  the  north  end  of  the  defile  the  line  would  be  continued 
up  the  basin  of  the  Mogoung  river  into  the  Hookong  valley.  Officers  who  had 
passed  over  this  route  stated  that  between  Mogoung  and  the  Hookong  valley  they 
did  not  pass  over  mountains,  but  only  among  small  spurs  or  hills.  Proceeding  from 
the  Irawadi  there  would  be  no  heights  to  cross  between  the  Hookong  valley  and  the 
Nongyong  hike,  which  lay  near  the  Patkoi  Pass,  as  the  Nongyong  was  a  tribu- 
tary of  the  Turong,  which  is  a  branch  of  the  Khyendwen  river  that  passes  through  and 
drains  the  Hookong  valley.  The  Patkoi  Pass,  according  to  the  paper,  was  only 
2860  feet  above  the  sea,  considering  that  Bhamo  was  430  feet  above  the  sea,  and 
that  the  Brahmaputra  at  Makum  was  at  least  the  same  height,  the  rise  to  the  crest 
of  the  pass  would  not  be  2500  feet.  Such  an  obstacle  was  inconsiderable  when  it 
was  remembered  that  Burma  now  formed  about  one-fourth  of  our  Indian  possessions, 
and  that  the  railway  was  intended  for  the  connection  of  our  neighbouring  Indian 
and  Burmese  provinces.  He  was  glad  to  hear  that  the  Government  of  India  intended 
as  soon  as  possible  to  carry  out  the  survey,  and  that  Mr.  Colquhoun  was  about  to  be 
appointed  Deputy-Commissioner  of  Mogoung.  He  knew  that  gentleman  well  enough 
to  be  certain  that  he  would  not  rest  satisfied  until  a  feasible  route,  as  they  had  every 
reason  to  believe  theirs  to  be,  was  traced  out  through  the  small  tract  of  country  which 
at  present  separated  and  blocked  our  Burmese  and  Indian  railway  systems. 

The  Cbaibhan  (General  K.  Stbachey,  b.e.)  said  that  before  proposing  a  vote  of 
thanks  to  Major  Macgregor  for  his  extremely  valuable  and  interesting  paper,  he 
wished  to  make  a  few  remarks  on  some  apparent  peculiarities  of  the  climate  of  the 
region.  There  appeared  to  be  a  very  curious  lowering  of  the  general  temperature 
there,  which  was  shown  by  the  fact  that  though  the  latitude  was  only  about  27i°  N., 
snow  was  found  on  the  ground  in  April  and  May,  at  an  altitude  of  9000  or 
10,000  feet;  whereas  far  up  in  the  north-west,  in  latitude  30°  N.,  no  snow 
would  be  found  at  that  time  of  the  year  at  a  similar  altitude.  He  should  con- 
sider  that  the  peculiarities  of  the  vegetation  of  Manipur  compared  with  Assam, 
to  which  allusion  had  been  made  by  Dr.  Watt,  were  connected  with  this.  It  was 
to  be  noted  that  the  valleys  which  Major  Macgregor  had  visited  were  at  a  com- 
paratively low  level,  only  1500  or  1600  feet.  Bhamo  was  only  about  400  feet. 
Immediately  to  the  north  rose  abruptly  what  was  really  a  permanently  snowy 
range.  There  could  be  no  doubt  that  the  warm  currents  of  air  coming  up  the 
valleys  of  the  Irawadi  and  the  Salween  and  meeting  these  snowy  motmtains 


4^ 


JDURNEir  OF 


T.  LAST 


producsed  an  enormous  precipitation  of  rain,  whicli  during  the  winter  fell  as  snow. 
The  ooasequenco  seemed  to  be  that  there  was  snow  there  at  a  very  much  lower 
le^el  than  in  the  mountains  further  to  the  north.  That  an  immenBc  (quantity  of 
rain  fell  on  the  np[>er  portions  of  the  valky  of  the  Irawadi  there  could  be  no  qnestion* 
The  rainfall  at  Badiya  \\&b  upwards  of  100  inches  in  the  year,  and  for  a  sue  cession 
of  ,monthe  from  May  till  September  it  was  nut  leas  than  15  or  16  inches  on  the 
average,  and  even  in  the  dry  months,  which  Colonel  Woodthorpe  and  Major  Mac- 
gregor  selected  as  j^articularly  practicable  for  their  purix)ses,  there  were  four  or  five 
inches  per  month.  If  it  had  been  a  rainy  year  they  might  have  had  double  that 
quantity.  Such  a  rainfall  seemed  iu  itself  quite  suCScieut  to  acwunt  for  the  large 
volume  of  water  that  was.  drained  ofl'  by  the  lower  portions  of  the  Irawadi,  and 
anybody  who  knew  what  the  climate  of  Tibet^  was  must  be  jierfectly  aware  that 
even  with  a  course  of  several  hundred  miles  in  Tibet^  the  river  would  pick  up  but  a 
small  quantity  of  water,  which  would  have  but  little  eflfect  iu  swelling  the  stream 
in  the  lower  parts  of  Burma,  in  comparison  with  the  enormous  volumes  wbich  were 
collected  from  the  rain  which  fell  in  Upper  Burma.  He  had  roughly  calculated  that 
a  monthly  fall  of  rain  of  18  inches  over  a  square,  degree  would  mean  05,000  cubic 
feet  per  second  for  the  whole  month.  That  would  give  some  idea  of  the  enormous 
quantity  of  w^ater  supplied  by  the  rainfall^  though  of  course  the  whole  of  it  was 
not  carried  off  by  the  rivers,  a  considerable  part  of  It  being  absorbeti  Major 
MftCgregor  mentioned  that  at  an  elevation  of  8000  feet  the  snow  weighed  down 
the  bamboos.  That  was  a  very  peculiar  feature  of  the  climate.  With  regard  to 
communication  between  India  and  Burma,  he  confessed  that  the  very  last  way  in 
which  he  should  ever  dream  of  attempting  to  connect  India  with  Burma,  would 
be  through  Assam  over  the  mountains  at  the  head-waters  of  the  Irawadi.  He 
would  not  say  it  was  impossible^  but  he  should  be  very  sorry  to  be  a  shareholder 
in  any  company  that  put  its  money  into  such  a  concern.  In  couclosioa  he  returned 
the  thanks  of  the  meeting  to  Major  Macgregor  for  hie  papen 


Journejj  of  Mr.  J,  T.  Last  from  Blanbjre  to  tJie  NamuU  Milk, 

W©  have  received  tlic  following  letter  from  our  traveller,  Mr,  J.  T. 
Laat:— 

Foot  of  Moujit  Chalt,  near  Namuli  Peaks, 
Aii*just  ^ith,  188G. 

I  LEFT  Blantyre  on  the  I2th  of  July,  and  reached  this  place  near  Namuli  on  the 
3rd  of  August.  I  have  camiKHl  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Cbali,  which  is  a  little  to  the 
south  of  Namnli,  instead  of  at  Namuli,  because  my  coast  men  would  not  bo  able  to 
bear  the  continuous  cold  at  the  high  elevation. 

On  leaving  Blantyre  our  path  lay  past  the  Scotch  Mission  station,  then  by  a 
road  to  the  east  we  went  on  to  the  foot  of  Ndilandi  Hill.  Here  we  camped  for  the 
night,  and  tbe  next  morning  we  crossed  over  a  pass  on  the  east  side  of  Ndilandi  and 
went  along  the  plain  to  Mount  Kiladzulu.  The  country  traversed  is  undukting, 
with  large  marshes  and  bogs  here  and  there.  The  rivers  Lunzu,  Ikimgnni, 
Mnombezi,  and  Nangoma  w^ere  crossed  during  the  day.  Tljey  are  all  small  now, 
but  during  the  wet  season  they  have  a  consitlerable  flow  of  water.  I  was  delayed 
four  days  at  Mount  Kiladxulu,  owing  to  difficulties  with  the  local  native  porters. 
On  starting  again  we  crossed  the  wide  jilain  which  lies  between  Kiladzulu  on  the 
west  and  the  Milaoji  range  of  mountains  on  the  east.  We  reached  the  hill 
Machemha,  at  the  north  end  of  the  Milanji  rangej  on  the  morning  of  the  third  day. 


FBOM  BLANTTRK  TO  THE  NAMdU  HILLS.  43 

The  cumiif>  tnTcraed  is  geDerally  fiat»  with  here  azni  there  patches  of  &irly  good 
kad,  bat  gpoeaJHj  the  groond  is  poor  sod  barren.  lo  pUoes  there  are  laige  bog8» 
which  nu^e  this  plain  almost  impassable  in  the  wet  season.  The  chief  rivefs 
crossed  were  the  IfnamsTi  and  the  Falombe.  The  fonner  rises  in  the  Bwanji  hUls, 
west  of  Moont  Kiladznln ;  on  its  way  it  reoetyes  the  Mwenji,  which  rises  on  Kilad- 
zolo.  The  Mnamari  then  goes  on  to  join  the  Palombe.  This  latter  is  a  consider- 
able riTcr,  some  40  yards  wkle,  with  banks  20  feet  high.  In  the  wet  season  the 
liTer  is  filled.  This  is  shown  by  the  dried  grass,  sticks,  and  ddbris  on  the  trees  on 
its  banks.  The  Pslombe  rises  on  the  north-west  side  of  Milanji  and  flows  on  into 
the  sooth  end  of  Lake  Shirwa  or  Kilwa,  as  it  is  sometimes  called. 

I  fbond  the  chief  on  Machemba  Hill  to  be  an  old  acquaintance.  He  made  me 
Tery  welcome  at  his  village,  and  brought  me  a  present  of  fowls  and  flour.  There  is 
plenty  of  food  here,  among  other  things  dried  fish  from  the  lake.  The  next 
morning  we  started  for  Mansi  hill.  The  chief  Kaduia,  or  Machemba,  went  with  me 
some  distance  on  the  road  to  show  the  way.  I  had  given  him  a  return  present  for 
what  he  had  given  me  ca  my  arrival  at  his  village.  My  general  practice  is  to  give 
a  present  somewhat  larger  or  of  more  value  than  that  I  receive.  When  a  present  is 
not  made  by  the  chief  I  give  the  ordinary  present  of  two  yards  of  calico.  In  the 
case  of  great  chiefs,  or  troublesome  ones,  presents  have  to  be  given  according  to 
dicomstances. 

Onr  journey  from  Machemba  to  Manzi  was  by  the  east  end  of  Machemba,  along 
the  north  side  of  Mount  Cheza,  then  in  a  northerly  direction  to  Mount  Manzi.  All 
the  country  at  the  north  of  Cheza  is  very  fertile,  but  it  was  depopulated  a  few  years 
ago  by  Chikuri,  the  King  of  the  Mangoni,  who  in  his  turn  was  driven  back  by  the 
Alob  Maknas,  into  whose  cotmtry  we  were  just  entering.  Further  on  we  came  to 
a  large  deserted  village  surrounded  by  well-cropped  gardens.  The  chief  of  the  place 
had  lately  died,  and,  according  to  custom,  the  people  had  gone  to  build  a  new  village 
elsewhere.  At  the  south  side  of  Manzi  there  is  a  very  large  marsh,  some  three  miles 
across,  and  extending  all  along  its  soutfi  and  east  sides.  Now  the  marsh  has  a  hard, 
cn^ed  crust,  but  during  the  rains  it  is  quite  impassable. 

From  Manzi  we  went  on  to  Lake  Limbi.  This  is  a  long,  narrow  pool,  forming 
the  head-waters  of  the  Sombani  river.  It  is  some  200  yards  wide  by  three  miles 
long.  There  are  a  number  of  hippopotami  in  the  lake,  and  fish  in  abundance,  but 
no  crocodiles.  The  old  chief  Mpaodakani  having  refused  to  give  me  a  guide,  we 
had  to  return  to  the  main  road,  which  leads  to  Kango  Hill,  and  after  following  this 
for  some  distance  wo  found  a  path  which  led  to  a  ford  over  the  Sombani  near  its 
egress  from  the  lake.  This  we  crossed,  and  then  struck  across  the  forest  to  the 
district  under  the  chief  Mlumbi.  In  the  evening  we  reached  a  partly  dried  up 
stream,  and  there  camped  for  the  night.  The  whole  of  the  country  passed  over  was 
very  poor,  with  coarse  grass  and  stunted  trees,  and  no  water.  We  moved  on  the 
next  morning,  and  reached  early  the  fertile,  well-cultivated  district  under  the  chief 
MlxmibL  He  received  us  very  kindly,  and  at  once  gave  us  a  place  to  camp  in. 
Food  of  all  kinds  was  abtmdant  and  cheap.  The  following  morning,  when  we  were 
ready  to  start,  many  men  came  forward  and  wanted  to  carry  loads  for  a  piece  of 
calico.  There  is  here  a  great  scarcity  of  cloth,  for  no  European  has  passed  this  way 
before,  and  trading  caravans  seldom  visit  the  district.  The  common  dress  is  a  piece 
of  the  bark  of  the  miyombo  tree,  hammered  out  to  form  a  kind  of  cloth.  With 
many  the  dress  is  very  scanty  indeed. 

In  a  part  of  Africa  like  this,  which  has  never  been  traversed  before  by  any 
European,  local  guides  are  absolutely  necessary;  anything  new  to  the  natives 
implies  danger:  he  therefore  is  on  the  alert,  and  often  the  most  simple  thing  may 
upset  the  native  mind,  and  produce  trouble  and  disaster.    Often  we  passed  through 


44 


JOURNEY  FROM  BLANTYRE  TO  THE  NAilULI  HIXIS. 


large  villages  without  Beeing  a  male  about  the  place.  They  were  all  out  with  their 
guns  and  spears,  and  had  located  them  selves  alongside  the  path  in  the  forest,  ready 
for  any  emergency.  When,  however,  they  saw  we  were  accompanied  by  some  naen 
from  the  last  villaj^e  and  that  they  gave  a  good  account  of  us,  they  became  at  once 
friendly  and  supplied  us  with  what  we  wanted,  and  so  we  went  on  from  place  to  place. 

We  reached  the  village  of  the  chief  Miyan^a  who  had  accompanied  us  from 
Mlumhi'st  about  noon.  In  the  afternoon  I  wanted  to  ascend  a  little  hill  named 
Knz\,  not  far  from  whicli  we  had  canii3ed,  but  the  people  living  in  a  village  at  its 
foot  refused  me  permission  on  the  ground  that  I  had  camped  at  another  village 
instead  of  theirs.  As  they  were  all  more  or  less  under  the  influence  of  drink,  I  did 
not  attempt  to  reason  with  them,  bat  simply  returned.  Besides,  I  did  not  wish  to 
have  any  dispnte  with  tlie  natives,  but  to  act  in  such  a  manner  that  there  would 
he  a  clear  road  between  Zomba  and  Nan  ml  i  for  my  men  to  pass  by.  The  head  man 
of  almost  every  village  is  independent,  even  when  he  is  living  in  the  territories  of 
another  chief.  Should  the  chief  of  a  district  wish  the  head  man  to  remove  his  villuge 
against  his  will,  there  would  probably  be  an  appeal  to  arms  first.  The  chiefs  are 
continually  fighting  with  each  other,  hut  should  an  outside  enemy  appear  they 
all  combine  to  oppose  him.  ,This  was  the  case  when  the  Mangoni  King,  Chlkuri^ 
attacked  the  Alolo  and  Loraur,  and  haii  to  retreats 

Prom  Miyanga*a  we  went  on  to  Mmakawa's  and  thence  the  next  day  to  Ana 
Mwinye'a.  The  country  is  of  an  undulating  character^  varying  in  quality  of  soil. 
There  are  a  few  small  streams  of  little  importance,  which  flow  into  the  Lumanana. 

We  reached  the  village  of  Mahuti  towards  evening.  Here  we  were  received 
amicably  and  food  was  supplied  in  abundance.  The  people  here  dress  in  a  most 
primitive  style,  esi^cially  the  women*  On  chief  Mtihuti  being  asked  the  reason 
for  this,  he  said  that  their  custom  was  that  women  should  not  wear  more  than  they 
did  until  they  had  borno  children.  The  next  imoruing  we  went  on  to  Mkwai's 
village  and  rested  for  a  short  tin\e.  Mkwai  undertook  to  go  with  me  to  Xamusula's 
town.  At  Mkwai*a  I  saw  a  woman  with  an  enormous  **  ndomya  **  or  lip- ring,  it  was 
quite  3i  iochea  in  diameter.  This  is  the  common  ornament  of  the  women  in  all 
these  districts.  In  addition  to  tins,  some  of  them  wear  a  brass  or  iron  nail  from  4  to 
7  inches  in  length.  It  is  passed  through  a  hole  in  the  lower  li]>  and  left  hanging  in 
froat  of  the  chin.  When  the  lady  cannot  afford  a  metal  ornament  of  this  kind  she 
utilizes  a  piece  of  stick  which  she  covers  with  beads. 

Namusula  being  the  most  powerful  chief  in  these  districts,  I  had  to  give  him  a 
considerable  present.  He  seemed  pleased  with  w  hat  1  gave  him,  and  said  he  would 
take  care  to  see  that  my  men  were  well  treated  whenever  they  might  pass  through 
his  district,     1  stayed  with  him  till  the  next  day. 

On  Monday,  August  2ud,  we  Icit  Kamusula's  and  went  on  to  Ana  Koroa's,  who 
the  next  morning  conducted  us  over  the  Lukirgu  river  into  Ana  Guruwe's  district- 
Here  we  were  received  by  Ana  Guruwe's  son-in-law,  who  led  us  on  to  the  chiefs 
priociiml  village.  After  we  had  rested  in  the  villaj;e  square  for  a  short  time,  Ana 
Ciuruwe  came  out,  followed  by  some  of  his  men,  and  after  some  introductory  cere* 
monies  placed  three  houses  atour  disposal  and  said  we  could  alter  or  arraogo  them  as 
we  plea8<xl.  He  brought  me  four  fowls  and  some  rice.  The  next  morning  I  made 
him  up  a  good  present,  which  has  pleased  him  very  much.  Shortly  afterwards  he 
brought  me  a  goat*  Several  small  presents  were  brought  in  from  minor  chiefs, 
which  for  the  sake  of  establiiiljing  a  friendly  feeling  amongst  all  the  people  were 
receivetl  and  acknowledged  by  a  rather  larger  present  in  return.  As  the  chief  and 
people  are  so  friendly  diaj)OBed,  and  the  Irreality  suitable,  I  feel  I  cannot  do  better  than 
make  this  my  head-quarters,  and  from  this  place  visit  all  the  aurrounding  country. 


(  «  ) 


The  late  Dr.  G.  A.  Fischer's  Expedition  for  the  Belief  of  Dr.  Junker. 

A  PRELDCiNABT  report  from  the  pen  of  the  late  Dr.  Fischer  on  this  im- 
portant bnt  unfortunate  expedition,  the  progress  of  which  we  have 
noted  &om  time  to  time,  is  published  in  the  current  number  of  Feter- 
mann's  '  Mitteilungen.'  It  will  be  remembered  that  the  expedition 
was  fitted  out  at  the  expense  of  Dr.  Junker's  brother,  the  banker  of 
St.  Petersburg.  Dr.  Fischer's  choice  of  routes  was  made  in  ignorance  of 
the  hostility  of  the  new  King  of  Uganda.  In  preference  to  the  route 
through  the  Masai  country  and  the  district  of  Usoga,  and  also  of  the 
usual  caravan  route  to  Victoria  Nyanza  vi&  Tabora,  the  traveller  decided 
to  proceed  direct  to  Kagehi,  on  the  southern  shores  of  the  lake,  by  the  road 
which  the  Fangani  caravans  take  to  the  district  of  Umbugwe.  After 
some  delay,  a  fEivourable  start  was  made  from  Fangani,  on  the  3rd 
August,  1885,  the  party  numbering  over  200.  The  general  direction 
taken  was  west-north-west  over  the  hilly  country  to  Nguru,  to  the  flat 
tablelands  of  the  South  Masai  territory,  until  the  district  of  Irangi  was 
reached.  The  want  of  a  guide,  and  the  scarcity  of  water  along  the 
road,  compelled  the  traveller  to  alter  his  plan  aud  to  turn  to  the  south- 
west. Skirting  the  country  of  Usandawi,  he  travelled  for  a  short  dis- 
tance along  Stanley's  old  route  through  Uwerewere.  On  the  14th 
October  he  reached  Usure,  having  crossed  the  small  river  Muaru  or 
Wembare  (Stanley's  Liwumba),  which  he  ascertained  does  not,  as  repre- 
sented by  Stanley,  join  the  Simiu,  but  loses  itself,  in  the  dry  season,  in 
the  plains  of  Wembare,  and  in  the  rainy  season  forms  a  lake.  These 
plains,  according  to  the  traveller's  barometrical  observations,  are  at 
least  325  feet  below  the  level  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza.  Leaving  Usure 
after  a  rest  of  seven  days,  and  passing  through  Usukuma,  and  along 
the  banks  of  the  Simiu,  he  eventually  reached  Kagehi  on  the  IGth 
November,  with  his  stock  of  goods  considerably  impoverished,  owing  to 
the  excessive  and  frequent  tribute  demanded  by  the  chiefs  of  the  many 
districts  traversed.  Here  the  rumours  as  to  the  impassability  of  Uganda, 
which  had  reached  him  for  the  first  time  in  Irangi,  were  confirmed, 
both  by  the  Arab  traders  and  by  two  messengers  sent  by  himself  across 
the  lake  to  the  English  missionaries  in  Uganda,  and  he  had  to  abandon 
the  route.  To  this  fact  must  be  attributed  the  failure  of  the  expedition, 
as  the  traveller's  stock,  consisting  chiefly  of  cotton  goods,  was  selected  for 
the  natives  of  Uganda,  while  the  people  of  the  countries  through  which 
other  routes  lay  buy  nothing  but  copper  wire  and  beads.  The  only 
route  that  seemed  open  to  him  was  that  round  the  east  side  of  the 
lake,  and  then  to  Wadelai  through  the  country  to  the  north  of  Ussoga. 
Accordingly,  on  the  11th  January,  1886,  after  a  stay  of  eight  weeks  in 
Kagehi,  unhealthy  in  the  rainy  season,  the  time  having  been  occupied 
in  collecting  geological  and  botanical  specimens,  the  traveller  set  out. 


46 


DR.  FISCHER'S  EXPEDITION  FOR  THE  RELIEF  OF  DR.  JUNKER. 


Eoimding  Spelc©  Gulf,  and  crossing  the  Simiu  and  the  Rubana,  the 
l>arty  entered  the  sparsely  wooded  country  of  Shashi,  with  its  mouo- 
tains    5000   feet  above   the   sea,   and    its    dry,    treeloss    plains,    the 
haunts    of    the   zobra»   gazelle,   gnu,   &c.     Spades    are    much    sought 
after  hy   the   agricnltnre-loving   people   of  Shaahi.      The  territory  of 
^'iawasaii  which  was  then  traversed,   is  inhabited  by  a  mixed  popn* 
lation   of  Ktiavis   and  Eantus*     The  Bantu   language   is  spoken,   but 
the  manners  and  customs  are  Kiiavi.     A  toilsome  march  through  tall 
grass  where  there  w^aa  no  path  hrougbt  the  party  to  the  uninhabited 
region  of  the  Moii  riixr,  and  thence  into  the  important  and  densely 
populated  country  of  Kawirondo^  the  physical  features  and  inhabitants 
of  which  are  described  by  the  traveller  in  detail.     Crossing  Njoro  the 
party  reached  its  chief  towoi,  Ulala  (Thomson's  Kwa  Sundu),  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Mohammedan  caravans.     His  slender  stock  of  wire  and 
beads  being  almost  exhausted,  Dr.  Fischer  states  he  would  have  parted 
willingly  with  weapons  and  ammunition  in  exchange  for  corn,  hut  the 
natives  themselves  were  suffering  from  famine ;  thus  his  last  hope  of 
proceeding  further  north   was   dashed   to   the  ground.     With  only  a 
meagre  stock  of  dnrrJai^  the  traveller  on  the  22nd  March  set  his  face 
eastwards  to  Lake  Baringo,  and  following  practically  the  route  taken 
by  Thomson  on  his  outward  journey  to  Victoria  Nyanza,  reached  the 
south  end  of  the  lake  in  the  first  week  of  April.    Being  unable  to  obtain 
here  any  fresh  stack  of  goods*  he  loft  the  lake  on  tho  13th  April,  and 
with  sorrowful  heart  commenced  the  long  march  to  the  coast.     Again 
lull  owing   Thorn  Bon*8  route   in   a  Bouth-south-wcsterly  direction,  and 
passing  to  the  east  of  Lake  Nakiiro»  he  arrived  at  the  north  end  of  Lake 
Kaivasha*     lie  then  struck  across  the  highlands  of  Kinangop  with  the 
view  of  reaching  Mianzine,  but  being  from  lack  of  means  without  a 
ji^uide,  he  lost  bis  way,  and  after  a  weary  march,  contrived  to  reach  a 
Kikuyu  village  on  the  west  slope  of  the  southern  end  of  the  Aberdare 
range,  the  whole  party  being  in  a  most  exhausted  condition.    HerCj 
fortunately,  the  traveller's  cotton  goods  found  a  ready  market,  and  he 
was  able  to  replenish  his  stock  of  provisions.     Under  the  direction  of  a 
guide  the  journey  was  resumed  acroas  the  range  at  a  height  of  over 
8900  feet,  but  the  party  was  shortly  afterwards  deserted  by  this  guide 
and  left  to  spend  two  days  in   a  bamboo    thicket.     Guided  by  some 
natives  the  party  marched  for  some  miles  through  the  thickly  populated 
and  richly  cultivated  district  of  Kikuyu,  in  the  direction  of  Mount 
Kenia,  two   glimpses  of  whose   cloud-covered  summit  were  obtained, 
l*hen  turning  Bouth-west,  the  traveller,  after  numerous  adventures  not 
ultogether  of  a  peaceable  kind  with  the  inhabitants,  left  the^e  wooded 
highlands,  which  he  describeB  as  the  most  beautiful  and  luxuriant  he  had 
ever  seen  in  East  Africa.     Proceeding  through  the  district  of  Liu,  ho 
marched  along  the  east  of  the  Ulu  range,  across  the  head-waters  of  the 
Ssabaki,  and  thence  via  Kissigau  to  Wanga  on  the  coast,  where  he  arrived 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  47 

on  the  14th  June  last  after  an  absence  of  eleven  months.  Dr.  Fischer, 
although  nnsnccessful  in  the  immediate  object  of  his  expedition,  has 
nevertheless  added  much  valuable  information  to  our  knowledge  of  the 
geography  of  Eastern  Equatorial  Africa,  more  especially  of  the  east 
coast  of  Lake  Victoria  Nyanza. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 

'  Dr.  Junker  reached  Zanzibar  on  the  11th  ult.,and  is  now  on  his  way 
to  Europe,  where  he  is  expected  to  arrive  about  the  middle  of  January. 
He  will  bring  detailed  news  regarding  the  position  of  Emin  Pasha  and 
the  present  state  of  the  countries  through  which  lies  the  best-known 
route  between  his  province  and  the  East  Coast.  In  a  telegram  from 
Zanzibar  to  Mr.  J.  T.  Wills,  Dr.  Junker  gives  us  the  very  interesting 
information  that  on  his  late  journey  he  penetrated  westward  (from  the 
Monbuttu  country)  down  the  Welle-Makua  river  as  far  as  22^  E. 
long.,  finding  it  generally  navigable.  At  22°  E.  Dr.  Junker  was  only 
about  150  miles  distant  from  the  point  on  the  Mobanji  tributary  of  the 
Congo,  reached  by  Mr.  Grenfell  in  the  steamer  Peace.  The  conclusion 
is  therefore  irresistible  that  these  rivers  are  connected.  With  regard  to 
Emin  Pasha,  it  is  announced  that  an  English  private  expedition,  under 
the  command  of  Mr.  Stanley,  and  supported  by  a  grant  of  10,000?.  from 
the  Egyptian  Government,  is  about  to  be  despatched. 

The  Crater-lake  of  Chala,  on  Mount  Kilimanjaro. — ^Mr.  J.  A.  Wray, 
writing  from  Sagalla,  on  November  19th  last,  informs  us  that  he  has 
succeeded  in  reaching  the  edge  of  the  water  of  the  picturesque  Lake 
Chala,  of  which  Thomson  gave  so  charming  a  description  after  passing  its 
borders.  Mr.  Wray  says  it  is  about  three  miles  long  by  one  mile  wide, 
and  the  banks  so  steep  that  a  descent  to  the  water  is  impossible  except 
at  one  place  on  the  western  side.  He  found  the  water  clear,  cool,  and 
perfectly  sweet,  though  the  lake  has  no  apparent  inlet  or  outlet.  It 
contains  fish,  and  numerous  waterfowl  were  swimming  on  its  surface,  the 
flapping  of  whose  wings,  when  they  took  to  flight,  produced  a  sound, 
through  confused  reverberation  in  the  deep  well-like  basin,  like  the 
rushing  of  a  distant  railway  train.  The  steep  banks,  about  1000  feet 
in  height,  are  well  wooded,  and  vegetation  clothes  their  surface  down 
to  the  water's  edge.  There  is  no  mark  of  higher  water,  and  it  probably 
keeps  the  same  level  all  the  year  round.  The  cries  of  birds  had  a 
peculiar  sound,  and  Mr.  Wray  had  no  doubt  that  it  is  these  noises 
which  have  given  rise  to  the  native  myth,  viz.  that  a  Masai  village 
formerly  stood  here,  which  was  swallowed  up  by  the  lake ;  the  people  of 
Taveta  believing  that  they  hear  voices,  the  lowing  of  cattle,  and  so  forth. 

Count  Pfeil*8  Journeys  in  East  Africa. — In  connection  with  the 
German  East  African  Association,  Count  Pfeil  has  recently  made  two 


48 


GEOGKAPfllCAL  NOTES. 


important  journeys  in  Ea.st  Africa,  the  first  of  whieli  reanlted  in  tne 
acquisition  for  the  Association  of  tho  large  territory  of  Khtitn  ;  the 
second  was  principally  occupied  with  the  exploration  of  the  Ulanga 
riven  An  iatere^ting  accotint  of  these  operations  has  been  oontributod 
hy  the  traveller  himself  to  Petermann's  *  Mitttjiiungen  *  (1886,  No,  12). 
Starting  in  May  1885  from  the  German  station  of  Muinie  in  Usagara, 
he  crossed  the  Mukondogwa  valley  and  traversed  the  plain  of  Makata. 
Ho  discovered  a  largo  village,  hitherto  unmarked  on  our  maps,  called 
**  IMhamba/'  which  is  situated  in  Makata  about  two  days*  march  from 
Myombo*  During  the  two  days  of  his  stay  there  no  less  than  nine  native 
caravans  arrived*  Ue  resumed  his  march  southwards  across  the  Rufutu 
range,  then  turniog  directly  east  entered  the  district  of  Khutu,  and 
again  south  he  struck  the  Ruliji  near  the  36th  parallel.  On  hie  road  to 
the  Rtifiji  he  passed  through  Rubehobeho^  the  scene  of  Keith  Johnson's 
death.  Continuing  his  journey  down  the  river  by  boat,  he  arrived  on 
the  coast  at  Mburai,  the  last  part  of  the  route  having  been  accomplished 
by  land. — The  second  journey  was  commenced  in  October  188S.  His 
starting-point  was  again  the  station  of  Moinie,  With  the  view  of 
exploring  tho  plateau  of  ITliebe  the  traveller  crossed  tho  Rubeho  range 
and  the  Ruaba  river,  and  then  marched  through  the  dry  treeless  country 
situated  between  the  latter  and  the  mountains  of  IJhebe.  His  journey 
along  the  tableland  extended  as  far  as  Kuirenga,  then  retracing  his 
steps  he  again  crossed  the  Rubeho  chain  more  to  the  south,  and  turning 
abniptly  southwards  anivetl  on  the  banks  of  the  Ulanga  at  Nga-homa. 
This  important  river^  hitherto  unknown,  for  Thomson  on  his  journey  to 
the  Central  African  lakes  mistook  an  arm  of  the  river  for  its  main 
stream,  was  ascended  by  tho  traveller,  in  company  with  a  friend  and 
twelve  men,  for  a  distance  of  about  150  miles,  as  far  as  the  little  village 
of  Muinga,  in  long.  35^  5'  E.  and  hit.  9*^  5'  S.  The  retuni  journey  was 
also  accomplished  by  boat  down  the  river  to  the  Suguli  Falls,  below 
which  the  river  is  known  as  the  Rufiji.  Here  tho  party  struck  across 
the  country  in  a  due  east  direction  and  arrived  on  tho  coast  at  Kilwa 
Kivinji  in  Felirnary  1886.  The  general  direction  of  the  Ulanga  from 
Nga-homa  is  west  for  a  long  distance,  and  then  sen th- west  to  its  source, 
which  lies  among  the  mountains  to  the  north-east  of  Lake  Nyaesa. 
Above  Nga^homa  it  flows  through  the  Mtihenge  territory,  between  th© 
Lijungo  range  on  the  right  bank  and  the  mountains  of  Uhebo  on  the 
left.  Its  banks  are  generally  steep  and  well-defined,  but  in  places 
where  tho  valley  broadens  the  river  overflows  in  marshes.  Its  breadth 
at  Kga-homa  is  330  yards,  while  at  its  narrowest  point  it  measures 
nearly  90  yards.  The  depth  in  its  lower  course  exceeils  20  feet  at  many 
points,  and  is  never  less  than  10  feet;  thus  this  important  waterway  is 
navigable  for  Kuiall  steamers  for  a  long  distance.  Tho  volumo  of  water 
in  the  river  is  very  large  oven  in  tho  dry  season,  considering  the  few 
and  unimportant  tribut^vries  which  it  receives.    In  its  broad  stretohe^  the 


1 


GSOG&AraiCAL  XOTCS.  49 

rUnga  is  studded  with  islands,  the  haunts  of  birds  of  gay  and  varied 
plumage.  The  natives  live  close  to  the  banks,  and  aie  described  in 
detail  bj  the  traveller,  whose  notes  on  the  fauna  and  flora  of  the  r^on 
possess  ipecial  interest. 

Hr.  LsBX^s  Expedition. — ^Further  news  has  been  received  from  Dr. 
Lenz,  dated  Eibonge.  April  20th,  Xyangwe,  May  19th,  and  Kasonge, 
June  1st.  In  company  with  Herr  Bohndorf,  in  canoes  supplied  by  Tippo- 
Tip,  Dr.  Lenz  ascended  the  Congo  to  Nyangwe,  taking  forty-eight  days 
between  Stanley  Falls  station  and  that  to¥m,  indoding  detentions  of 
several  days  at  Kibonge  and  Riba-Riba.  For  the  first  few  days  a  good 
many  cataracts  were  met  with,  and  four  times  they  had  to  transport  the 
canoes  overland,  over  ground  to  a  large  extent  marshy  and  covered  with 
bushes.  Two  days  above  the  last  cataract,  about  lat.  1^  S.,  Kibonge 
(named  after  its  chief)  was  reached,  a  very  extensive  settlement  of  Arabs 
and  Zanzibaris,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river.  It  was  founded  only  nine 
years  ago  by  a  Nyangwe  trader,  independent  of  Tippo-Tip.  It  consists 
of  some  hundreds  of  what  we  may  call  homesteads,  spread  over  a  great 
space,  with  a  few  thousand  inhabitants.  It  lies  very  low  and  is  most  un- 
healthy, especially  for  Europeans.  Dr.  Lenz  found  great  changes  along 
the  river  since  Mr.  Stanley  descended.  The  natives  in  many  places  have 
retreated  from  the  banks,  to  make  way  for  Arab  trading  settlements  and 
enormous  rice-fields,  ^'owhere.  Dr.  Lenz  states,  has  he  seen  in  West 
Africa  so  many  and  so  extensive  rice-fields.  In  the  neighbourhood  of 
Kibonge  provisions  of  all  kinds  are  abundant.  The  whole  life  of  the 
place  reminds  one  more  of  East  than  of  West  Africa.  The  natives  here 
live  deep  in  the  forest,  are  to  a  large  extent  cannibals,  and  make  use  of 
poisoned  arrows.  After  leaving  Kibonge,  the  banks  in  many  places 
were  found  to  be  thickly  wooded,  with  numerous  signs  of  former  native 
settlements,  now  deserted,  owing  to  the  inroads  of  the  Arabs.  After 
passing  the  mouth  of  the  Kasaka,  the  banks  showed  evidences  of  native 
^ettlements,  some  of  them  hostile,  and  others  on  friendly  terms  with  the 
Arabs.  The  Arab  settlement  of  Riba-Biba  was  reached  on  May  2nd. 
This  place  is  named  after  its  chief,  a  Mahommedan  negro  from  Nyangwe ; 
it  is  only  four  years  old,  and  though  not  so  large  as  Kibonge,  does  a  great 
business  in  ivory.  Riba-Biba  was  left  on  May  5th,  and  next  day  the 
mouth  of  the  Elila  was  reached,  a  river  on  Stanley's  map,  on  the  right 
bank,  without  a  name,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  which  Stanley  puts  a 
place  named  Urangi.  The  banks  now  became  comparatively  well 
peopled,  and  on  the  9th  they  became  very  steep,  and  the  current  rapid. 
On  the  10th  a  cataract  (Tutumbe)  was  passed.  Another  cataract  was 
passed  on  May  15th,  the  cataract  region  here  bearing  the  name  of 
Gulunga  Wuesa.  Nyangwe  was  reached  on  the  16th.  After  passing 
the  last  cataract  the  river  expanded  greatly,  and  both  sides  were  bordered 
with  numerous  inhabited  grass  islands,  the  channels  between  which  are 
bewildering.    Nyangwe  lies  about  100  feet  above  the  river.    It  is  not 

No.  L— Jan.  1887.]  k 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


a  compact  town,  but  a  cluster  of  small  settlements,  outside  wKich  are 
groat  rice- fields  autl  bauaoa  pluuUtioDs.  (^aravaus  are  continually 
coming  ami  going,  so  that  the  population  varies  almost  daily*  The 
town  contains  some  very  wel!  built  houses  of  sun-dried  bricks.  Pro- 
visions arc  abundant  tind  living  cheap,  !Nyangwe»  l>n  Lenz  states,  ii 
by  no  means  tbo  important  trading  place  which  it  is  generally  tlionght 
to  be  in  Europe.  Though  still  prosperous,  it  has  lost  much  of  its  impor- 
tance since  Kaaonge,  a  few  days  to  the  south-cast,  has  become  so  great. 
It  is  not  at  Nj'angwe,  but  at  Ka?;ongo,  that  caravans  for  Lake  Tangan- 
yika are  fitted  out.  Kaaonge  is  Tippo-Tip's  head-quartera,  and  he  is 
all-powerful.  Dr.  Lena  arrived  at  this  place  on  May  20th,  and  was 
tho  guest  of  Tippo-Tip.  Kasonge  ia  surrounded  by  hills,  with  moun- 
tains in  the  distance  eastwards.  The  houses  in  Kasonge  are  arranged 
in  streets,  many  of  them  large  and  handsome,  while  the  rice-fields  are 
some  distance  from  the  town  on  the  neighbouring  hills*  It  is  the  great 
centre  for  the  ivory  and  slave  trades.  Tippo-Tip  has  a  great  rival  here 
in  Said  Moliamed  Kasuenda,  though  the  two  aro  on  good  terms.  At  tbe 
date  of  his  letter  (June  let)  Dr.  Lenz  did  not  Imow  how  long  ho  would 
remain  at  Kasonge*  It  is  evident,  from  what  he  tells  us,  that  the  whole 
of  the  region  traversed  by  hi  eh  is  in  the  power  of  the  Arab  traders  ;  that 
it  ii  becoming  thickly  peopled  by  themselves  and  their  dependents; 
and  that  the  cultivation  of  rice  is  rapidly  extending.^^It  ma^'  be  well 
to  recall  the  fact  that  Dr,  Lenz  went  qui  with  tbo  object  of  reaching 
Dr»  Junker  and  Emin  Pasha ;  the  former  wo  know  is  now  safe  at 
Zanzibar,  and  if  Dr.  Lenz  continued  his  journey  as  he  hoped  to  do,  ho 
may  by  this  time  be  within  hail  of  Emin  Pasha.  The  latest  telegraphic 
news,  however,  is  that  Dr.  Lenz  has  been  compelled  to  abandon  hia 
intention  of  reaching  the  Albert  Nyanza, 

Prejevalsky's  recent  Journey  in  Central  Asia.  —  We  hear  from  M. 
Yenukoif  that  Colonel  Prejevakky  has  returned  to  St.  Petersburg  from 
his  country  seat,  where  he  has  spent  the  summer  reposing  after  the 
fatigue  of  his  late  journey,  and  that  ho  is  preparing  for  publication  the 
results  of  his  great  expedition,  Manj  of  the  principal  scientific  men  of 
Eussia  and  other  countiies  arc  engaged  on  tho  examination  and  descrip- 
tion of  the  natural  history  collections  made  in  the  deserts  of  Mongolia 
and  on  the  Tibetan  plateau,  and  it  is  repmted  that  tho  cost  of  bringing 
out  the  work  will  exceed  3200^,  sterling.  A  chapter  of  the  personal 
nanutivo  will  appear  very  soon  in  one  of  the  liussian  periodicals  as  a 
specimen  of  tho  work. 

Progress  of  Russian  Ixploratiou  in  Forthern  Asia. — M.  Yen ukoff  also 
gives  us  the  following  details  regarding  ri-ceirt  Hussian  scientific  work 
in  Asia.  MM,  Potanin^  Skassy,  and  Be^e!^uf^ky  have  lately  returned  from 
their  expedition  in  China  and  Mongolia,  bringing  immense  collections 
in  anthropology,   zoology,  and  botany,  besides  maps  of  the  countries 


« 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  51 

which  they  have  traversed  during  their  three  years*  journey  (1884-6). — 
M.  Tchersky,  an  old  political  exile  in  Siberia,  has  just  published  at  St. 
Petersburg  his  geological  map  of  the  borders  of  Lake  Baikal,  together 
with  explanatory  text  in  a  separate  pamphlet.  It  is  an  excellent  work, 
which  adds  greatly  to  our  knowledge  of  the  physical  geography  of  this 
great  water  basin,  the  best  known  of  all  the  Asiatic  lakes,  thanks  to  his 
labours  and  those  of  his  predecessors,  Dybowsky  and  Godlefsky  (also 
ci-devant  Siberian  exiles,  but  now  professors  in  Poland),  and  the 
eminent  naturalist  Dr.  Eadde,  besides  numerous  Eussian  surveyors. — 
M.  Erasnof,  the  eminent  botanist  and  physicist,  on  his  return  to  St. 
Petersburg,  after  his  journey  in  the  Tian  Shan  and  Chinese  Tiirkistan, 
has  entertained  the  Eussian  Geographical  Society  by  a  brilliant  lecture 
on  the  Balkash  basin,  in  which  the  general  principles  of  physical  geo- 
graphy were  applied  in  a  searching  and  effective  manner  to  the  geogra- 
phical description  of  the  region  and  of  Central  Asia  generally. — The 
subject  of  the  desiccation  of  the  Siberian  lakes  continues  to  engage  the 
attention  of  the  Eussian  Geographical  Society.  Basing  his  case  on 
the  facts  adduced  in  M.  Venukofifs  memoir,*  M.  Yadrintzoff  has  urged 
on  the  Eussian  Geographical  Society  the  necessity  for  more  thorough 
investigations,  and  a  committee  has  been  nominated  for  the  purpose, 
consisting  of  MM.  Stebnitsky,  Tillo,  MushketofT,  and  Schmidt.  It  is 
expected  that  an  expedition  will  be  despatched  to  study  the  subject  on 
the  spot. 

Merv. — A  correspondent  of  the  *  Petersburger  Zeitung'  has  forwarded 
interesting  details  on  the  present  condition  of  Merv.  A  fortress  has  been 
built  on  the  lofty  right  bank  of  the  Murghab,  whilst  the  modem  town 
of  Merv  extends  along  the  left  bank.  Both  are  connected  by  a  bridge, 
somewhat  slightly  constructed  of  wood  and  iron.  The  climate  is  stated 
to  be  most  unfavourable  to  Europeans,  and  nowhere  in  this  region, 
except  at  Penjdeh,  is  the  number  of  sick  so  numerous.  New  Merv  num- 
bers between  two  and  three  thousand  inhabitants,  more  than  half  of 
whom  are  officials  and  workmen  employed  upon  the  railway,  the  remain- 
der being  traders  of  all  nationalities,  including  Armenians,  Persians, 
Bokharans,  and  many  adventurers.  A  weekly  market  takes  place  outside 
the  fortress,  at  which  provisions,  fruits,  vegetables,  game,  cattle,  felt, 
carpets,  straw  mats,  wooden  and  leather  ware,  cotton  stuffs,  &c.,  are 
sold.  Most  of  the  things  sold  are  '*  cheap  and  nasty."  Cafes  chantauts, 
drinking-shops,  and  still  less  innocent  places  of  resort  abound. 

Bnssian  Expedition  to  the  ST ew  Siberian  Islands. — According  to  the 
latest  news  of  the  expedition  under  the  leadership  of  Dr.  Bunge  and 
Baron  von  Toll,  the  travellers  have  failed  in  their  attempt  to  cross  the 
Glacial  Ocean  and  reach  the  New  Siberian  Archipelago,  in  consequence 
of  the  reindeer  being  attacked  by  distemper,  in  the  vicinity  of  Ust- 

♦  In  the  *  Bevue  de  Gdograpliie,*  July  1886. 

s  2 


52  GEOGRAPHICAL  KOTES. 

Yansk  and  Nijni-Kolymsk.  They  intend,  therefore,  to  remain  for  some* 
time  in  the  district  in  order  to  dig  up  the  complete  skeleton  of  the 
mammoth  which  they  have  found  there. 

Iceland. — Dr.  Labonne  reports  to  the  Geographical  Society  of  Paris 
(26th  August,  1886)  from  Akreyri  in  northern  Iceland,  that  he  had 
just  crossed  the  island  from  south  to  north  through  the  central  desert  or 
Sprengisandr.  The  journey  was  accomplished  on  a  pony,  and  without 
either  tent  or  provisions.  On  the  14th  July  he  made  an  ascent  of  Mount 
Hekla,  and  with  very  favourable  weather,  rarely  experienced  there, 
obtained  an  extensive  view  from  the  summit,  embracing  the  Westmann 
Islands,  60  miles  distant.  Several  small  columns  of  steam  issuing  from 
small  fissures  in  the  rocks  were  the  only  indications  of  the  activity  of 
the  volcano.  Its  height  above  the  sea-level,  a  disputed  point  among 
explorers,  he  ascertained  with  the  aid  of  a  good  barometer  by  Dutrou  to 
bo  5096  feet.  The  thermometer  at  the  base  of  the  mountain  registered 
57^  Fahr.  (14*^  Cent.),  and  at  its  summit  18°  Fahr.  He  saw  the  large 
geyser  in  full  activity,  the  column  of  boiling  water  rising  over  100  feet 
into  the  air.  He  was  assured  by  his  guide  that  for  the  last  two  years 
the  geysers  had  been  very  active,  although  recent  travellers  have  asserted 
that  they  were  gradually  becoming  inactive.  Dr.  Labonne  stayed  three 
days  in  this  district  in  order  to  find  traces  of  the  former  vegetation  of 
the  country,  which  the  "Sagas"  or  hymns  of  the  ancient  Icelanders 
describe  as  luxuriant,  whereas  at  the  present  time  the  only  tree  found  is 
the  Sorhtis  Aucuparia,  At  the  suggestion  of  M.  Bureau,  professor  of 
paleeontological  vegetation  at  the  Natural  History  Museum  of  Paiis,  the 
traveller  tried  to  find  traces  of  this  vegetation  under  the  beds  of  silica 
round  the  basins  of  the  geysers.  He  was  fortunate  in  obtaining  a  large 
piece  of  rock,  situated  at  a  depth  of  about  16  feet,  incrusted  with  leafy 
stems  of  the  Betula  alba,  Salix  caprsea,  and  Salix  arctica.  This  valuable 
specimen  will  be  submitted  to  competent  authorities  on  his  return. 
Meanwhile  a  superficial  examination  shows  that  the  size  of  these  stems 
and  leaves  is  not  larger  than  that  of  existing  shrubs.  It  may  be  re- 
marked that  the  formation  of  a  bed  of  silica  16  feet  deep  would  require 
at  least  1000  years,  or  about  the  time  that  the  island  has  been  known  to 
Europeans.  The  valley  of  the  geysers,  now  denuded  of  vegetation,  was 
formerly  covered  with  small  shrubs,  which  owe  their  disappearance  not 
to  any  change  of  temperature,  but  to  the  fact  that  the  natives  pluck 
them  up  in  winter  for  firewood.  The  ti-aveller  concludes  by  remarking 
on  the  exceptional  cold  experienced  last  August  in  Iceland,  due  to  the 
icebergs  remaining  stationary  on  the  north  coast  of  the  island. 

Mr.  Seton-Earr'8  Account  of  Mt  Saint  Ellas.— Mr.  0.  Mitchell  Grant, 
Secretary  of  the  Geographical  Society  of  the  Pacific,  San  Francisco, 
informs  us  that  Mr.  Seton-Karr  states  that  Mount  St.  Elias  is  not  less 
than  three  miles  to  the  east  of  the  141st  meridian,  and  over  thirty 
miles  from  the  coast,  thus  being  in  Canadian  territory.    With  regard  to 


REPORT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS.  53 

the  river  named  after  Mr.  Jones  of  the  New  York  Ttmes,  he  says  that  he 
considered  it  was  produced  by  the  molting  of  the  enormous  glaciers  in 
the  neighbourhood.  He  estimates  the  area  of  Agassiz  and  Guyot  glaciers 
(so  named  by  the  party)  as  not  less  than  1800  square  miles,  including 
their  tributaries.  The  Tyndall  glacier  is  the  principal  glacier,  descend- 
ing directly  from  the  south-west  face  of  the  mountain.  He  also  con- 
eiders  the  Icy  Bay  or  Jones  river  to  be  larger  than,  and  not  identical 
with  the  Riko  BoLshe  Vuala  of  Portoff.  Lieut.  Schwatka  stated  that  it 
was  too  large  to  be  produced  merely  by  the  melting  ice.  Mr.  Karr, 
who  ascended  400  feet  higher  than  Woods,  and  over  1000  feet  higher 
than  Mr.  Schwatka,  saw  no  break  in  the  chain,  and  nothing  but  fields  of 
ice  in  every  direction,  from  the  highest  point  reached  below  the  clouds. 
The  party  claim  to  have  made  the  highest  ascent  ever  recorded  above 
the  snow-line. 

The  Kew  French  Census. — From  the  preliminary  statistics  of  the 
census  of  France,  which  was  taken  on  May  30th  last,  we  find  the  popu- 
lation at  that  date  to  be  37,885,905.  This  shows  an  increase  on  the 
-census  taken  December  18th,  1881,  of  213,857,  in  5]^  years,  or  at  the  rate 
of  only  •  1  per  cent  per  annum.  This  is  a  great  falling-ofT  in  the  rate  of 
increase  from  that  between  the  census  of  1878  and  1881,  when  it  was 
-415  per  cent.  As  in  the  former  period  there  has  been  a  considerable 
decrease  in  the  population  of  some  of  the  departments. 

The  Kew  Oerman  Census. — The  results  of  the  German  census  taken 
December  1st,  1885,  show  a  much  greater  rate  of  increase.  The  popula- 
tion then  was  46,844,926,  as  compared  with  45,234,061  five  years 
previously,  showing  an  increase  of  1,610,865,  or  at  the  rate  of  '71  per 
kxidL  per  annum.  But  even  this  is  a  falling  off  from  the  two  previous 
periods ;  between  1871  and  1875  the  increase  was  at  the  rate  of  1 '  01 
per  cent,  per  annum,  and  between  1875  and  1880  at  the  rate  of  1  •  14  per 
cent,  per  annum. 

REPOBT  OP  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS,  SESSION  1886-7. 

Third  Meeting^  Deeeniber  13/A,  1886. — General  A.  Strachey,  r.e.,  f.r.s., 
Vice-President,  in  the  Chair. 

Pbesektation. — Edwin  Bauson  Freshfield,  Esq, 

Electioss. — Henry  Anderson  Bryden^  Esq. ;  Sir  Duncan  Campbell  of  Barcal- 
dine^  Bart ;  Alfred  James  Day,  Esq. ;  William  Keswick,  Esq. ;  Percy  Mathews, 
Esq.;  William  Prince,  Esq.;  George  Sadler,  Esq.;  James  McDougall,  Esq.; 
Ernest  Henry  William  Tripe,  Esq. ;  Eev.  Ernest  E.  Wood ;  Henry  Page  Wood- 
ward, Esq. 

The  paper  read  was : — 

'*  Journey  of  the  Expedition  uoder  Colonel  Woodthorpe,  B.B.,  from  Upper  Assam 
to  the  Irawadi  and  return  over  the  Patkoi  Range.'  By  Major  C.  B.  Macgregor 
(BeDgal  Staff  Corps).    Ante,  p.  19. 


{    54     ) 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOEEIGN  SOCIETIES. 

Geographical  Society  of  Paris* — ^November  5th,  1S86 ;  M,  A.  Germatk  m 
the  chair, — This  was  the  first  meetin^c  of  the  Society  after  tho  recess.  Among  the 
announcpmenta  made  by  the  Secretary  were  the  foUowitig : — The  National  Consxress 
of  French  Geogmphical  Societies  wotjld  be  held  next  year  (1887)  at  Havre^  simul- 
taneously with  the  International  Naval  Exhibition;  Lieut.-Col,  Gallieni  had  just 
started  to  take  the  chief  command  on  tho  Upper  Senegal  and  the  Upper  Niger ;  M. 
E.  Viard  was  on  the  eve  of  departure  fram  Saint  Louis  on  a  new  journey  into  tho 
interior  of  Africa, — M.  Alpbonse  Pinart  presented  two  short  papers  by  himself  on, 
the  State  of  Panama,  in  which  he  gives  some  interesting  ethnographical  details  on 
the  Cunos  Indians ;  tbeao  papers  form  part  of  a  proposed  series  of  fifteen.— M.  T. 
Barbosa  Rodri^es^  Director  of  the  Botanical  Museum  at  Maoaoa  (Brazil),  sent  a 
copy  of  a  work  just  published  by  him  od  the  river  Juapery  and  the  Indian  tribes 
inhabiting  its  bonks.  The  author  was  the  first  to  explore  this  rivt>r.  He  further 
transmitted  his  own  surveys  of  the  Ca|Hiy,  Yarauodfl,  and  Urubu  rivers. — -It 
was  stated  that  M.  Leon  Poirier  had  bequeathed  to  the  Society  the  sum  of  200,000 
francs  (8000?.)  the  interest  on  which  was,  according  to  the  conditions  of  tho 
legacy,  to  be  invested  every  three  years  in  an  annuity  (never  to  exceed  GOL)  to 
be  awardeti  to  one  or  more  travellers  of  French  birlh  whose  works  should  be 
considiTed  the  most  valuable  to  science*^ — An  iuiportant  communication  was 
forwarded  by  iL  Leon  Dru,  on  the  results  of  bis  mission  in  regard  to  the  proposed 
canal  between  the  Volga  and  the  Don. — M.  Venukoff  forwarded  a  summary  of 
recent  geographical  work  in  the  Bnssian  Empire,  He  gives  some  of  the  results  of 
M,  Tcheniichev*s  barometrical  obtsorvations  in  the  south  of  the  I'ral  Mountains 
(1882-5).  The  Ural  Mountains  are,  from  a  hypsometrical  point  of  view»  the  least 
known  of  any  range  in  Europe,  M,  Tchernichev  has  determined  the  precise  altitude 
of  ten  summits  possessing  an  elevation  of  over  3280  feet  (1000  metres).  The 
Academy  of  Sciences  of  St.  Petersburg  has  just  published  General  Tillo*a  memoir  on 
magnetism  in  Siberia,  which  is  accompanied  by  a  map,  showing  tliat  the  horizontal 
comjKtnent  of  the  magnetic  force  of  the  earth  diminishes  towards  the  east  across 
Northern  Siberia  under  from  65°-80°  latitude,  but  increases  under  the  50*'-52^ 
parallels*  The  return  to  Kussia  of  MM.  Potanine,  Skassy^  and  Beresovsky  was 
daily  expected.  They  bad  explored  the  north-west  of  China  and  a  considerable  part 
of  southern  Mongolia*  M.  Skasay  has  determined  more  thnn  a  hundred  astronomical 
points  and  aeveral  hundred  altitudes.  MM.  Ignatiev  and  Krasnoff  had  complt^ted 
their  studies  on  the  Khttn*Tengri  group  in  tho  Tbian  Shan,  and  had  penetrated  to 
the  south  as  far  as  the  town  of  Ush-Turfan.  M.  Krasnoff  had  proceeded  into  Russian 
Turki'Stau  and  the  region  of  Merv  in  order  to  examine  the  flora  of  the  country  in  its 
relation  to  the  vegetation  of  Eastern  Turkestan.  M.  Groum-Grjimanio,  whoso 
object  was  to  study  the  flora  of  Eastern  Pamir,  had  met  with  extraordinary  difficulties 
on  his  journey.  He  had  visited  the  environs  of  Kashgar*  but  had  not  succeeded  in 
penetrating  into  the  mountains  of  Upper  Pamir  in  consequence  of  the  bad  weather. — 
Several  communications  were  read  ujjon  Tongking,  one  from  Lieut.  L,  de  Mazenad, 
giving  an  accoimt  of  a  journey  along  tho  Upi>er  Mekong,  which  was  found  to  be 
navigable  as  far  as  the  Kong  Falls,  and  one  from  M.  de  Montaignac,  announcing  a 
scheme  for  the  organisation  of  the  Muongs  which  had  been  proposed  by  M.  Gouin, 
the  French  Kesident,  and  M,  Moulin,  Chancellor,  and  had  been  favourably  received 
by  the  nativea.  M.  Gouin  transmitted  a  short  paper  on  the  Muongs,  which  will  be 
inserted  in  the  Quarterly  BulIetin.^ — Two  short  notes  were  read  from  M.  E*  Renou, 
Director  of  the  Meteorological  Observatory  of  the  Pare  du  St.  Manr,  on  the  altitude 
of  several  points  in  Morocco,  and  on  the  different  routes  from  Morocco  to  Timbuctu,— 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES.  55 

Dr.  Bouire  presented  a  resume  of  the  paper  just  published  by  him  in  the  Bulletin  of 
the  Geographical  Society  of  Lyons,  which  deals  with  the  hydrography  and  orography 
of  Central  Tunis  and  its  agreement  with  the  Ptolemaic  account.  He  has  been  able  to 
identify  all  the  peaks  mentioned  by  the  latter,  and  to  confirm  his  hydrography. — 
A  communication  was  read  from  Dr.  Ten  Kate  on  his  recent  operations  in  Guiana. 
He  started  from  Paramaribo  on  the  15th  December,  1885,  to  visit  the  natives  on  the 
Upper  Surinam,  but  was  compelled  to  return  on  account  of  the  exceptional  dryness 
of  the  season  and  the  consequent  shallowness  of  the  river.  He  then  sailed  down 
the  coast  to  Albania,  a  small  colony  on  the  Lower  Maroni,  where  he  visited  the 
Indians  along  both  banks  of  the  river.  He  proceeded  next  to  Georgetown,  intending 
to  accompany  M.  im  Thum  on  a  journey  up  the  Pomerun  river,  but  the  absence  of 
the  latter  in  Europe  compelled  him  to  alter  his  plans.  He  accordingly  embarked  on 
a  steamer  up  the  Orinoco  and  reached  Angostura  on  the  7th  of  March.  From  this 
point  he  struck  across  the  country  to  Cumana,  where  he  arrived  after  a  journey  of 
eighteen  days.  He  described  briefly  the  natives  and  physical  features  of  the  districts 
through  which  he  passed.  The  people,  mostly  Indians  and  balfbreeds,  are  very  poor, 
in  oonaequenoe  of  the  numerous  political  revolutions  and  the  drought  of  last  summer, 
when  swarms  of  grasshoppers  invaded  the  country,  devouring  the  harvests  of  maize, 
cassava  and  sugar-cane.  Directly  after  leaving  Angostura  the  traveller  crossed  the 
vast  sandy  Llanos  and  passed  the  three  rivers,  Morichal,  Tigre,  and  Guanipa.  llien 
the  route  led  over  a  chalky  and  schistose  sierra  with  almost  impracticable  paths. 
Among  the  mountains,  which  are  very  little  wooded,  he  stayed  a  short  time  in  the 
beautiful  valley  of  the  Gu&charo  near  Caripe,  where  he  visited  the  celebrated  grotto  of 
which  Humboldt  gave  the  first  description.  On  the  30th  March  ho  reached  Cumana, 
which  has  suffered  greatly  from  earthquakes ;  along  the  Gulf  of  Cariaco  he  visited 
the  Guayquery  Indians.  An  attack  of  marsh  fever  compelled  him  to  seek  a  more 
temperate  climate,  and  after  a  stay  of  some  weeks  in  the  United  States  he  returned 
to  Holland. — ^The  Minister  of  Public  Instruction  communicated  a  letter  dated 
27th  June,  1886,  from  M.  A.  Thouar,  according  to  which  the  traveller,  after  a 
laborious  journey  from  Tarija,  had  reached  the  Bolivian  frontier  where  he  had  been 
attacked  by  fever.  Later  news  mentions  his  arrival  at  Sucre  and  his  recovery  from 
two  further  attacks  of  fever.  He  intended  to  return  to  Buenos  Ayres  through  Chaco 
about  the  end  of  December. — From  Chili,  M.  R.  Serrano  sent  an  account  of  the 
recent  geographical  and  hydrographical  works  executed  in  the  country,  which 
include  several  new  surveys  along  the  coast,  and  a  large  part  of  Tierra  del  Fuego. 
—Captain  Soaville  addressed  a  letter  on  the  Pitcaim  and  ^Norfolk  Islands,  upon 
which  a  discussion  arose,  M.  Depping,  M.  de  Quatrefages,  and  Dr.  Hamy  taking  part. — 
In  conclusion,  M.  Bouquet  de  la  Grye,  of  the  Institut,  read  at  the  invitation  of  the 
Chairman,  a  short  report  of  the  meeting  of  the  French  Geographical  Societies  which 
took  place  at  Nantes  during  August. 

November  19th,  1886  :  M.  A.  Germain  in  the  Chair. — A  communication 

was  read  from  M.  Hangsen-Blangsted  on  the  physical  aspect  of  Denmark  during 
the  eleventh  century  as  compared  with  its  present  state. — A  letter  from  M.  Yenukoff 
gires  the  relative  altitude  of  the  highest  point  (Lake  Bolshoe)  of  the  canal  uniting 
the  Obi  with  the  Yenisei,  as  62  feet  above  the  level  of  the  former  river  at  its 
junction  with  the  Kite,  and  180  feet  above  that  of  the  latter  at  a  corresponding 
point.  As  Lake  Bolshoe  is  three  times  nearer  to  the  Yenisei  than  the  Obi,  it  follows 
that  the  slope  on  the  eastern  side  is  much  greater  than  on  the  western. — Recent 
observations  made  by  M.  TAbb^  Desgodins  at  Phedong  (Tibet),  were  transmitted 
to  the  Society  by  his  brother. — Captain  Bernard  forwarded  from  Fort  National 
(Algeria),  the  report  of  the  mission  in  South  Algeria  with  which  he  was  charged 
in  the  winter  1884-5. — Reference  was  made  by  the  General  Secretary  to  the 


rROCEEDlNGS  OF  FOftElGN  SOCIETIES. 


report  that  MM.  Capus  and  llonvalot,  the  Frencli  travellers  in  Central  Asia, 
had  been  arretted  m  Af^banistsin.  The  Clmirmim  stated  that  aji  applicatiou 
would  be  made  to  the  Minister  for  Foreign  Aifairs  for  Jiia  intervention  if  the 
news  were  confirmed, — M.  G.  Bepping  read  a  letter  from  Comte  Fressinet  de 
Ballanger  giving  the  results  of  hia  investigations  on  the  locality  of  the  grave  of 
Tavernier,  He  establishes  the  fact  that  the  great  traveller  waa  buried  in  the 
Protcatant  Cemetery  near  Moscow. — A  ctimrautiication  waa  made  by  M.  Guerin  on 
the  Bubject  of  geographical  teaching  by  means  of  etereographic  projection,  i.  e.  repre- 
senting the  earth  as  seen  in  parallel  perspective.  He  waa  of  opinion  that  thin  method 
was  the  simplest  and  most  easily  understood,^ — The  Chairman  announced  that  the 
general  meeting  of  the  Society,  at  which  the  Secretary's  report  on  the  progress  of 
geography  would  be  read,  wouhi  take  place  on  the  17th  December,  and  that  the  Annual 
Banquet  haa  been  fixed  for  the  20th  December.  ^E*  Ferd.  de  Lesaeps  would  preside. 
— M.  Rouvier,  French  Consnl  at  Buenos  Ayres,  in  a  deajatch  of  2GLh  September, 
addressed  to  the  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs,  announced  the  discovery  of  auriferous 
bearings  in  Tierra  del  Fuego,  more  particularly  in  the  country  round  San  Sebastian 
Bay. — In  conclusion  Captain  Longhoia  read  an  account  of  his  journey  to  Shoa,  the 
object  of  which  waa  the  exiiloration  of  the  Awash  and  its  basin,  Hia  remarks  were, 
however,  of  an  ethnographical  rather  than  of  a  geographical  character. 

Geographical  Society  of  Frankfurt-oE-Main.  —  December  8th,  lB8r>, 
Fiftieth  Antiivenmry.  Thi;  Prei^ideni  uf  the  Societ}^  Senator  Dr.  von  Oven,  pre- 
sented a  rc])ort  of  the  fifty  years*  work  of  the  Society,  which,  having  been  fonnded 
on  December  9th,  1836,  is  the  oldest  in  Germany,  that  of  Berlin  alone  excepted. 
Prof.  Theobald  Fiacher  of  Marburg  then  delivered  an  addreas  in  which  he  traced  the 
progress  of  geographical  science  during  the  past  fifty  years.  A  large  number  of 
Honorary  members  were  elected  in  celebration  of  the  event,  including  the  Presidents 
of  the  geographical  Societies  of  Berlin,  Madrid,  Paris,  Turin,  Ley  den,  and  London, 
Prof,  Kordenskiold,  General  Prejevabki,  Dr.  Schweinfurth,  Prof.  B,  Studer,  Major 
Powell  of  the  United  States,  Mr.  E.  G.  Bavenatein,  &c. 

Geographical  Society  of  Mmiicll.— December  3rd,  1886.  Lieut,  Baron  von 
Gravenrtuth  read  a  paper  on  Eastern  Africa^  in  the  course  of  which  he  gave  au 
account  of  an  expedition  up  the  Pangani,  in  which  he  took  part.  Owing  to  the 
desertion  of  the  carriers  the  expeditiou  failed  to  reach  Mt.  Kiliuumjaro,  A  station, 
Korogwe,  was  founded  on  the  Pangani.  In  ooncUiaion  the  author  gave  a  general 
account  of  the  territories  recently  acquiret^i  by  Germany  in  Eastern  Africa,  and 
apoke  favourably  of  their  natural  wealth  and  hygienic  conditions.  Prof.  Dr.  Brenner 
then  read  a  pa|)er  on  Ola  us  Magnus**!  Map  of  Northern  Europe,  the  original  of  which, 
dated  1539,  was  discovered  by  him  in  the  Munich  Town  Library.  (Comp.  *  Pro- 
coedings,M886,  p.  790). 

Geographical  Society  of  Berlin* — December  4th,  1886 :  W.  Esibs  in  the 
chair. — At  the  commencement  of  the  proceedings  the  Chairman  alluded  to  the  recent 
sudden  death  of  the  meritorious  African  traveller  Dr.  G,  A.  Fischer,  and  stated  that 
the  Geographical  Society  of  Hamburg  at  their  Kitting  of  the  2nd  December  had 
decided  to  send  to  the  parents  of  the  traveller  the  gold  Kirch  en  pauer  Medal,  being 
the  first  year  of  the  award  of  that  majrk  of  honour.  The  Chairman  also  greeted,  in  the 
name  of  the  Society,  Prof,  H,  Kiepert  on  hia  safe  return  from  Asia  Minor,  and  expressed 
his  satisfaction  that  the  serious  accident  said  to  have  befallen  him  proves  to  be  a  false 
report, — Captain  Henniog  then  addressed  the  meeting  on  his  two  years*  residence  in 
China  and  Korea  in  the  Chinese  service.  The  speaker  dilated  more  eapecially  on 
the  pecnliarities  of  the  Chinese  character,  and  the  position  of  the  Chinese  in  relation 
to  western  civilisation.    He  waa  of  opinion  that  the  adoption  of  western  ideas  by  the 


I 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUCATIONS.  57 

Chinese  would  bring  with  it  no  injury  to  Europe,  as  they  would  be  able  to  do  nothini; 
without  Europeans.  China,  moreover,  is  not  so  rich  a  country  as  generally  supposed, 
proof  of  which  is  afforded  by  the  facts  that  a  family  can  live  there  very  comfortably 
for  30  dollars  a  month,  and  that  the  Viceroy  of  Canton,  for  example,  has  an  estab- 
lishment far  inferior  to  that  of  many  private  persons  in  Europe.  He  believes  it  to 
he  incorrect  to  attribute  the  emigration  from  China  [to  over-population.  China,  on 
the  avera;2:e,  was  not  so  over-populated  a  country  as  the  as^ject  of  its  large  cities  and 
coast  districts  has  led  observers  to  assume.  Captain  Henning  added  that  Peking, 
with  50  square  kilometers  of  area,  has  only  600,000  inhabitants,  whilst  Berlin  with 
63  square  kilometers  has  1,400,000,  and  Loudon  with  320  square  kilometers  has 
4,000,000.— Dr.  Stapff  (formerly  geologist  to  the  St.  Gothard  Railway),  then  read  a 
paper  on  the  geology  of  the  neighbourhood  of  Walfish  Bay  and  the  Kuisip  Valley, 
from  which  he  had  returned  a  few  months  ago,  and  of  which  he  had  constructed  an 
exoellent  geological  map.  He  laid  stress  on  the  great  influence  exercised  by  the  loose 
sand  in  connection  with  the  wind  on  the  configuration  of  the  ground  and  on  the 
rocks.  At  first  sight  one  would  suppose  the  great  quantity  of  polished  and  rounded 
stones  encumbering  the  ground  in  many  places  were  due  to  water  action,  whereas,  in 
fact,  the  rounding  and  polishing  have  been  effected  by  the  wind-driven  sand.  The 
periodical  mortality  of  fishes  in  Walfish  Bay  he  attributed  to  the  occasional  sub- 
marine eruption  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas,  of  which  he  perceived  traces  at  the 
southern  entrance  to  the  bay. 


NEW  GEOGEAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 
(By  J.  ScoiT  Keltie,  Librarian  b.g.s.) 

EUBOPE. 

Essays  on  the  Street  Be-alignment,  Be-oonstruction,  and  Sanitation  of  Central 
London,  and  on  the  Be-housing  of  the  Poorer  Classes  ;  to  which  Prizes  offered  by 
William  Westgarth  were  awarded  by  the  Society  of  Arts,  1885.  London,  G.  Bell 
and  Sons,  1886 :  8vo.,  pp.  vi.  and  276,  plans.  [Presented  by  the  Council  of  the 
Society  of  Arts.] 

CPranceJ — Voies  Navigables.  Manuel  des  distances  comprises  entre  les  principaux 
points  de  chaque  voie.  Paris,  Imprimerie  Nationale,  1882:  12mo.,  pp.  352. 
[Presented  by  the  French  Minister  of  Public  Works.] 

This  is  useful  as  a  reference  book  for  the  lengths  of  French  rivers  and  the 
distances  between  the  leading  positions  thereon. 

Lebonr,  G.  A. — Outlines  of  the  Geology  of  Northumberland  and  Durham.  2nd 
edition  as  regards  Northumberland.  Newcastle,  Lambert  &  Co.,  1886.  [Presented 
by  the  Author.] 

VerSfientlichung  des  Eonigl.  Preussischen  Geodatischen  Instituts.  Lothabweich- 
ungen.  Helt  L  Fonneln  und  Tafeln  sowie  einige  Numerische  Ergebnisse  fiir 
Norddeutschland.  Der  Allgemeinen  Konferenz  der  intemationalen  Erdmesaung 
im  Oktober  1886  zu  Berlin  gewidmet  Berlin,  P.  Stankiewicz,  1886:  4to.,  pp.  x., 
d4,  and  26,  plates. 

ASIA. 
[Cobham,  C.  Delaval.]— An  attempt  at  a  Bibliography  of  Cyprus.  Nicosia,  1886  : 
12mo,  pp.  12. 

The  author  states,  in  a  note,  that  he  has  here  attempted  to  register  the  titles 
of  books  treating  of  Cyprus,  its  people,  history,  numismatics,  epigraphy,  and 
language,  of  which  he  dm  found  any  trace. 


58 


NEW  GEOGKAFHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 


AFBICA. 

BeEtley,  [EevJ  W*  Holman-— "Dictionary  and  Grammar  of  the  Kongo  Langna^jp, 
as  spoken  at  San  Salva^lor,  the  Ancient  Capital  of  tbe  Old  Kongo  Empire,  West 
Africa.  Compiled  and  Prepared  for  the  Baptist  Mijision  on  the  Kongo  River, 
West  Africa.  London,  publlj^hei  by  the  Baptist  Missionary  Society,  and 
Trubner  &  Co.,  1886 :  8m,  pp,  244,  plate.     [Presented  by  R.  N,  Gust,  Esq.] 

Hore,  Annie  R. — To  Lake  Tanganyika  in  a  Bath  Chair.  LondoE,  Sampson  Low 
&  Co.,  1886 ;  8vo.,  pp.  x.  and  217*  Price  7s,  6ri.  [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 
There  is^  of  course,  nothing  new  to  the  geographer  in  Mrs.  Hore's  interestincj 
little  volume.  She  endured  with  pluck  tho  well-known  hardships  of  African 
travel,  though  one  rejirets  that  it  was  considered  necessary  to  aubject  her  infant 
child  to  the  fevera  and  other  trials  which  a01icted  the  poor  little  fellow.  The 
book  is  nseful  as  showing  that  Kuro]X!an  women  as  well  as  men  can  live  and 
fiourish  in  Home  fxirts  of  Atrica  ;  though  it  slionld  be  remembered  that  the  sit© 
of  Mrs.  Hore'a  home  is  unusually  healthy.  Captain  More  has  built  bis  house 
on  the  island  of  Kavala,  off  tbe  we«t  side  of  the  lake,  near  tbe  Loudon  Missionary 
Society's  station  of  Mtowa,  Mrs.  Hore  gives  some  interesting  details  concern! og 
her  own  and  her  husband's  work  among  the  natives.  There  is  a  route  map  and 
a  map  of  Lake  Tanganyika. 

Law  St  [Rev*  Br.]  and  Mr  a- — The  Tsbiguoda  Language  of  the  Lower  Zambesi 
Region,  Kast  Africa.  Vocabularies  by  Bev.  Dr,  and  Mrs.  Laws,  Free  Church  of 
Scotland  Mission.  Privately  printed  by  the  Liviugstonia  Mission  Committee, 
188G.     Edinburgh,  James  Thin :  12mo,,  pp.  64. 

Laws,  [Sev.]  Robert^^Table  of  Concords  and  Pamdigm  of  Verb  of  the  Chin- 
yanja  Lauguage,  as  spoken  at  Lake  Nyasa.     Edinburgh,  James  Thio,  1885, 

Silos,  A- — A  Vocabulary  of  the  Kiteko,  as  spoken  by  tbe  Batekc  (Batio)  and 
kindred  tribes  oo  the  Upper  Congo.  English-Kiteke.  London,  Hodder  & 
Stoughton,  1886 :  12mo,,  pp.  xii.  and  190.  [Presented  by  H.  G.  Guinness, 
Esq.] 

AMERICA. 

[America,  United  States.] — Department  of  the  Interior.  Tloited  States  Geological 
Survey.  J.  AV,  Powell,  Director.  Bulletins  of  tho  United  States  Geological 
Survey,  Nos,  27-29.  Washington,  Government  Printing  Office,  1886 :  8vo^  map 
and  plates.     [Presented  by  the  Director  of  the  U*S.  Geological  Survey.] 

No.  27.  Report  of  Work  done  in  the  Division  of  Chemistry  and  Physics 
mainly  during;  the  Fiscal  Year  1884-85.-'No,  28.  The  Gabhros  and  Associated 
Hornblende  Kcxiks  occurring  in  the  Neighbourhood  of  Baltimore,  Md.  By 
G^rge  Huntington  Williams,  ph.d. — No.  29.  On  the  Presh*w»ler  Inverte- 
brates of  the  North  American  Jurassic.     By  Charles  A,  White,  m.d. 

[Tenth  Census  of  the  United  States,    1880,]   Vols.  xvi.  and  xx.    Washington, 

GorernmeDt  Priutitig  Office^  1885-1886 :  4to.,  maps  and  illustrations. 

Bancroft,  H,  H,— The  Works  of  Hubert  Howe  Bancmft.  VoK  XXI 1.  History 
of  California.  Vol.  V.,  1846-1848.— Vol.  XXIX.  History  of  Oregon,  Vol  h 
1834-1848.  San  Francisco,  The  History  Company,  1886 :  8vo.,  pp,  (Vol.  XXIL) 
XV.  and  784  (Vol.  XXLX.),  xxxix,  and  789,  maps, 

Harrower;  Henry  B. — Captain  Glazier  and  his  Lake.  An  inquiry  into  the  history 
and  progress  of  exploration  at  the  liead-waters  of  the  Mississippi  since  the  discovery 
of  Lake  Itaiica.     New  York,  Ivison  &  Co.  [1886] :  8vo.,  pp.  58. 

Although  we  cannot  admire  the  spirit  of  personality  in  which  this  pamphlet 
is  written,  it  must  be  admitted  that  the  author  baa  brought  together  much 
useful  information  with  reference  to  explomtiopK  at  the  source  of  the  Mississippi 
previous  to  Captain  Glazier*s  expedition.    Mr.  Harrower  maintains  tho  identity 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUCATIONS.  59 

of  Lake  Glazier  with  tbe  well-kDown  Lake  Elk.  With  reference  to  the  source 
of  tbe  Mississippi,  Mr.  Harrower  contends  that  the  main  thing  to  do  is  to 
determine  and  locate  tbe  watershed  which  separates  the  Itasca  l^in  from  the 
sources  of  the  Bed  River  of  the  north  on  tbe  one  band,  and  from  the  head- 
springs of  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi  on  tbe  other.  Having  definitely  outlined 
the  drainage  basin  to  the  south  of  Itasca,  it  is  wortb  while  to  trace  the  principal 
feeders  of  the  lake  to  their  springs,  to  determine  the  area  drained  by  each,  the 
volume  of  their  flow,  and  tbe  rapidity  of  their  currents,  to  measure  the  elevation 
of  their  extreme  sources  above  the  level  of  Lake  Itasca,  and  to  find  how  far  they 
are  perennial,  and  how  much  of  their  currents  dry  during  a  portion  of  the  year. 
Otber  points  will  also  be  solved,  such  as  changes  in  the  water-supply  of  tbe 
region,  alterations  in  levels  and  dimension  of  lakes  and  pcmds,  and  also  whether 
any  time  Elk  Lake  and  Itasca  Lake  were  a  continuous  body  of  water.  Indeed, 
at  the  date  of  issuing  Mr.  Harrower's  paper  (Oct.  1886),  he  states  that  his 
publishers  bad  themselves  sent  out  an  expedition  **  fully  equipped  with  instru- 
ments for  the  complete  survey  and  delineation  of  the  region  which  supplies  the 
cbief  feeders  of  Lake  Itasca." 

[Jamaica.] — The  Handbook  of  Jamaica  for  1886-87 :  containing  historical, 
statistical,  and  general  information  concerning  the  island.  Published  by  authority. 
By  A.  C.  Sinclair  and  Laurence  R.  Fyfe.  London,  Stanford,  1886 :  8vo.,  pp.  xii. 
and  548. 

This  is  one  of  tbe  most  useful  and  exhaustive  of  colonial  handbooks^  con- 
taiuing  a  good  deal  of  information  useful  to  geographers. 

AUSTRALIA. 
QneenslancL — Report  on  the  Greology  and  Mineral  Resources  of  the  Districts  of 
Eilkivan  and  Black  Snake.   (By  the  Assistant  Government  Geologist.)  Brisbane, 
J.  C.  Beal,  Groverument  Printer :  folio,  pp.  8,  maps  and  plans. 

RobillBOn,  [Sir]  W.  C.  F. — ^The  Physical  Geography  of  the  South-west  of  Western 
Australia :  a  Paper  read  before  the  South  Australian  Branch  of  the  Geographical 
Society  of  Australia,  on  tbe  27th  September,  1886.  Adelaide,  E.  Spiller, 
Government  Printer,  1886 :  8vo.,  pp.  18,  map. 

OCEANIA. 

Browilf  LEcvJ  G.,  and  Danks*  B.— A  Dictionary  of  the  Duke  of  York  Island 
Language,  New  Britain  Group ;  also,  a  Grammar  of  the  same,  and  an  Introduction. 
By  Rev.  G.  Brown,  f.r.o.s.,  &c.  [hi  manuscript]  Sydney,  1882,  8vo.,  pp.  vi., 
Ixx.  and  328.     [Presented  by  tbe  Rev.  G.  Brown.] 

GabeleiltZ,[Prof.lGeorg vender.— The  Languages  of  Melanesia.  [From  the 
•  Journal  of  the  Royal  Asiatic  Society  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,'  vol.  xviii, 
Part  4.]    8vo.,  pp.  7.    [Presented  by  R.  N.  Gust,  Esq.] 

Helanesian  Mission.— The  Island  Voyage,  1885.  Ludlow,  C.  A.  Partridge, 
1885 :  8vo.,  pp.  53,  map.    [Presented  by  R.  N.  Oust,  Esq.] 

GENERAL. 

Andr^y  Sichard. — Ethnograpbische  Earten.  In  '  Mittheilungen  des  Yereins  fur 
Erdkunde  zu  Leipzig,'  1885,  pp.  175-240. 

This  is  a  serviceable  list,  with  critical  remarks,  of  170  ethnographical  maps 
relating  to  various  parts  of  the  world. 

Clark,  Latimer.— IVansit  Tables  for  1887.  Giving  Mean  Time  of  Transit  of  tbe 
Sun  and  of  certain  Clock  Stars  for  every  day  in  the  year.  Compiled  from  the 
•Nautical  Almanac'  for  popular  use.    London,  Spon,  1887[6]. 


60 


NEW  GEOGRAPniCAL  PUBLICATIONS. 


Bollen,  W^ — Zeitstem-Fphemeriden  auf  das  Jahr  1886  fur  die  Zeitbcstimmirafr 
vennittekt  dcB  Trjif;barea  Durchgangsmslmments  im  Yerticale  des  Polaraterm>. 
St.-Fetersburg,  18S6 ;  large  8vo.»  pp.  xxiii*  and  27. 

Izvestiya  TmperatorBkago  Rusakago  geo;Trapliiclieskago  obahestva.  Tom.  xxiu 
Vypu&k  3.    St*  Petersburg,  188G :  pp,  225-352,  with  map. 

This  lumiber  of  tiie  *  PrLKJcedinjrs  *  of  the  linssian  Gcogmpbical  Societj' 
contains  the  fuliawing  articles: — Tiie  iDflueiiee  of  Piussian  colonisation  on  the 
character  of  the  Stavropol  region,  D*  Ivauof.  Information  on  the  Northern  Ural, 
with  map,  E.  Feodorol  and  P*  Ivanof.  Geodetic  and  cartographical  works  of 
the  corfss  of  military  tojxigraphcrs  in  1885,  besides  nott'S  and  reports  of  the 
expeditions.  Under  the  last-named  heading  are  three  letters  from  the  well- 
known  scientific  trEivelkr  and  explorer  N.  Potanin,  dated  from  Sining,  Tonkir, 
and  Gavlai  the  22Dd  March,  2(14)  Aprd,  and  11(23)  June,  1886. 

M.  Potanin  writes  these  letters  on  his  way  back  to  Itiisaia  from  the  north- 
eastern borders  of  Tihet.  His  |jarty  consisUd  of  M.  Skassy,  to|"iographeT,  and  M. 
B^rdzofsky,  natnralist.  Besides  tliese  Mr.  Parker  of  the  China  Inland  Missioa 
joined  the  party  and  was  to  accompany  them  to  Su-c!iau.  Potauin'a  last 
letter  describes  their  march  acrotts  the  Nan-tbau  mountain  range  ae^iarating  the 
basin  of  the  Yellow  Eiver  from  the  plains  of  Sonthern  Mongolia*  The  pasAca 
were  13,000  feet  high,  and  the  valleys  not  much  klow  10,000  feet.  At  the  end 
of  April  they  found  Lake  Koko-nor  still  covered  with  ice  though  Prejevalsky  m 
1873  saw  it  oj^on  a  month  earlier,  M.  Potanin  mentions  extensive  goldniiggiiiga 
seen  by  hiui  in  the  valley  of  the  BardoDj  and  outcrops  of  coal  in  this  and  the  adja- 
cent valley  of  Lontiir,  He  came  across  a  people  called  Yegnri  living  in  the 
northern  mrta  of  the  Kau-ahan  range  between  Kan-chau  and  Sii-chau,  and 
believes  that  he  is  the  first  to  make  tlieir  exiKtence  known  in  Europe*  They 
suffered  severly  during  the  late  Muhommedan  rising  in  Western  China,  and  their 
numbers  were  reduced  to  some  SOO  families.  They  speak  the  Mongolian 
language,  and  are  subject  to  the  governor  of  Kan-su.  The  Chinese  call  them 
Hwang-fan  ;  their  ancient  tribal  names  liave  disappeared,  having  given  place 
to  Chinese  names  referring  to  the  number  of  horses  each  tribe  had  to  pay  as 
tribute  to  the  Emperor  of  China.  The  Yeguri  are  all  Lamaists  by  religion 
and  |X)sseas  seven  monasteries.  They  are  ruled  by  elders  appointed  by  the 
Chinese  authorities. 

A  route  survey  of  M,  Potanin's  journey  based  on  4G  astronomically  deter- 
mined poaiiioDs  has  been  executed  by  M.  ISkassl,  M.  Bereiwfsky  remains  in 
Kan-su  till  ISBT,  to  bant  and  collect  s|>ecimens  of  natural  history. 

Borne  interesting  particulars  of  an  ex|^ition  to  Klmu  Tengri,  furnished  by 
A-  N.  Krnsnuf,  arc  in  the  same  number  of  the  Ixvestiya. —  [E^  D,  M.] 

Jahresbericht  am  25  Mai  188Gdem  Comity  der  Nicolai-Ilauptstemwarle  abgestattet 

vom  Director  der  Sterawarte.    8t*  Petersburg,  1B8(S :  8vo.,  pp.  52, 
IianeEiaili   J.-I,— L'Expansion  Coloniale  de  la  France.     Avec  10  Cartes  hors 
teste.     Paris,  P^lix  Alcan,  1886 ;  8vo.,  pp.  ixiii.  and  lOlG.     Price  10*. 

There  have  been  a  good  many  books  recently  on  the  French  colonies ;  that 
of  M.  Lanesaan  ia  one  of  the  most  carefully  written  aud  complete.  It  includes 
Algfria,  Tunis,  and  Aladagascar,  aud  in  the  case  of  each  colony  gives  a  fairly 
satisfactory  account  of  the  geography  and  ethnology,  followed  by  sections  on 
the  history  of  the  colony,  its  expansion,  its  induatries,  its  trade,  and  its  adminis- 
tration. M.  Lanessan  in  his  introduction  discusses  the  subject  of  colonisation 
from  what  he  calls  a  natural  history  point  of  view.  The  modern  migration  is 
simply  the  continuation  of  the  movements  which  have  prevailed  among  restless 
humanity  from  the  first,  movements  which  have  led  to  the  peopling  of  the 
earth,  to  the  mixture  of  races,  to  the  suppression  of  the  weaker  by  the  stronger, 
to  those  conditions  which  we  recognise  as  civilisfttion.  **Thi8  colonial  exf>an- 
sion,  which  at  the  present  time  impels  the  greatest  nations  of  Europe  towards 
the  most  distant  and  wildest  regions  of  our  globe,  api>ears  to  be  aimply  tho 
destineii  and  necessary  manifestation  of  the  life  of  these  nations.  Like  Athens 
and  fc>i>arta  in  Asia,  like  Rome  in  Gaul,  France,  England,  and  Germany  seek 


I 


N£W  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS.  61 

in  India,  Oceania,  the  extreme  East,  the  riches  necessary  for  the  satisfaction  of 
their  wants.  In  exchange  they  carry  with  them  into  distant  regions,  with  the 
prodocts  of  their  industries,  the  genius  which  animates  them.  If  you  ask 
me  to  strike  in  millions  the  balance  of  this  double  operation,  I  would  make 
reply  that  it  matters  little  to  me  to  know  what  the  conquest  of  Gaul  cost  the 
Roman  people ;  I  am  satis6ed  to  know  that  France  of  the  present  day  is  the 
result  of  the  colonial  expansion  of  Rome,  as  the  Algeria,  Indo-China,  Mada- 
gascar, Tunis  of  the  future  will  be  the  result  of  the  colonial  expansion  of 
France." 

FhilippsoXL,  Alfred. — Studien   iiber  Wasserscheiden.      In    *  Mittheilungen    des 
Vereins  ftir  Erdkunde  zu  Leipzig,'  1885,  pp.  243-402. 

This  is  one  of  those  thorough  studies  in  scientific  geography,  so  common  in 
Germany,  and  hitherto  so  rare  here.  Prefixed  is  a  long  and  useful  list  of 
authorities  which  the  writer  has  consulted  on  the  subject.  The  monograph  is 
divided  into  four  sections.  In  the  first  the  author  deals  with  what  he  calls  the 
first  or  original  positions  of  water-partings.  Under  this  head  he  endeavours 
to  show  the  importance  for  its  history  of  the  last  emergence  of  a  laud  from  the 
sea ;  the  connection  of  water-partings  with  the  relief  of  the  land  at  the  time 
of  this  occurrence  ;  the  preparation  of  a  relief  suitable  for  a  water-parting  (1) 
by  the  forces  at  work  during  the  submergence  of  the  land,  (2)  by  the  forces  at 
work  under  the  sea,  (3)  by  those  at  work  at  the  time  of  emergence.  He  then 
goes  on  to  sketch  the  position  of  water-partings  after  the  emergence  of  various 
types  of  land-surface— surfaces  of  abrasion,  stratified  plateaus,  soft  lands, 
regions  of  foldincr^  or  crumpling,  regions  of  upheaval.  In  the  second  section 
the  author  deals  with  the  displacement  of  water-partings  under  the  heads  of 
the  fall  of  water-partings  to  a  position  of  stability ;  factors  which  can  efi^ect 
changes  in  water-partings;  and  the  obliteration  and  re-formation  of  water- 
partings.  In  the  third  section  he  deals  with  the  topographical  morphology  of 
water-partings  under  the  heads  of  peculiarities  of  the  vertical  cross-section, 
the  vertical  longitudinal  section,  the  horizontal  projection.  In  the  fourth  sec- 
tion the  author  treats  of  the  course  of  water-partings  in  various  regions  of  the 
globe,  arranged  under  his  previous  classification  of  types  of  surface.  The 
author  endeavours  to  arrive  at  a  satisfactory  definition  of  a  water-parting.  The 
definition  of  water-parting  as  the  boundary  between  river-basins  he  con- 
siders too  v&eue.  The  definition  of  a  water-parting  as  the  boundary  line 
between  two  directions  of  drainage  he  considers  too  wide.  He  ofiers  the  lollow- 
ing  as  more  satisfactory  than  either: — A  water-parting  is  that  line  which 
divides  two  difierent  directions  of  surface  drainage  from  each  other.  Finally, 
he  divides  water-partings  into  two  great  groups : — 1.  Those  which  stand  in 
approximately  complete  relations  with  the  present  arrangement  of  their  sub- 
structure ;  these  he  designates  Concordant  Water-partings.  2.  Those  which 
do  not  stand  in  any  such  relation,  and  which  the  author  designates  as  Dis- 
cordant Water-partings. 


The  following  works  have  also  been  added  to  the  Library  :— 

Carlyle,  [EevJ  J.  E. — South  Africa  and  its  Mission  Fieldg.    London,  J.  NisLet 

&  Co.,  1878 :  8vo.,  pp.  viii.  and  325. 
Mitchell,  [Mrs.]  Murray.— A  Missionary's  Wife  among  the  Wild  T.ibes  of 

South  Bengal.    Extracts  from  the  Journal  of   Mrs.  Murray  Mitchell.    Witli 

Introduction  and  Supplement  by  Dr.  George  Smith.    Edinburgh,  John  Maclarcn ; 

London,  J.  Kisbet  &  Co.,  1871 :  12mo.,  pp.  viii.  and  70. 

Mullens,  Joseph. — Missions  in  South  India,  visited  and  described.  London,  W. 
H.  Dal  ton,  1854 :  8vo.,  pp.  vii.  and  191,  map. 

Proceedings  of  the  General  Conference  on  Foreign  Missions,  held  at  the  Conference 
Hall  in  Mildmay  Park,  London,  in  October  1878.  Edited  by  the  Secretaries  to 
the  Conference.    London,  J.  F.  Shaw  &  Co.,  1879 :  8vo.,  pp.  viiL  and  434. 


63 


KEW  MAPS. 


Smith,  George.— Fifty  Years  of  Foreign  Mifiaions;  or  tKe  Foreign  Missions  of  the 
Free  Church  of  Scotland  in  their  Year  of  JubilCT,  1879-80.  Fourteenlb  edition, 
Edinburgh,  J,  Maclaren  &  Son,  1880 :  8fo.,  pp.  79,  maps  and  ill  us  t  rations. 

Wilson,  [the  late]  John- — Indian  Caste.     Bombay,  Times  of  India  Office ;  Edin- 
bnr^ti  and  London,  W.  Blackwood  &  Sod»,  1877 :  8vo.,  pp.  450,  228,  and  xxil 
[The  above  six  works  were  presented  by  Dr.  George  Smith,] 


NEW  MAPS. 

(By  J.  Coles,  Map  Curator^  b,g,s.) 
THE  WORLD. 

BiberOt  BiegO- — The  2nd  Borgiao  Map  by  ,  Geogn^pher  to  His  Majesty,  In 

iSeville,  1529,  Reprodnced  by  W.  Griggs  in  Photo-chromolithograpby  from  the 
original  in  the  Mu&enm  of  the  "Propaganda"  in  Rome.  W.  Griggs,  Peckbam, 
S,E.,  188G,     Price  II.  Is. 

This  is  a  very  well  executed  facsimile  reproduction  of  the  second  Borgian 
map  by  Diego  Ribero,  which  through  the  kindness  of  His  Holiness  Pope 
Leo  XIIL  was  permitted  to  l>e  sent  from  the  Archives  of  the  Propar^anda, 
Rome,  to  the  West  India  Section  of  the  Colonial  Exhibition,  all  previous 
applications  to  the  predecessors  of  the  Snprtime  Poiitifi^  for  permission  to  copy 
this  map  having  been  refused,  though  on  ono  occasion  ih^  request  was  made  at 
the  instance  of  the  Unitetd  StHtes  Government.  It  is  presumed  that  the 
original  of  this  map  must  liave  been  commenced  about  1494,  and  finished  1529, 
poisibly  for  Charles  Y*,  in  order  to  settle  some  difficuities  with  the  Portuguese, 
relative  to  the  vexed  question  of  j^ossesaion  of  the  newly  discovered  lands^  and 
it  forms  part  of  the  valuable  collection  left  to  the  Sacred  Congrej^ation  of 
Propaganda  by  Cardinal  Bori^ia^  the  last  of  the  family,  who  died  1830.  On 
the  upper  margin  thert^  is  an  iot^ription  in  Spanish,  in  which  it  is  stated  that 
the  map  contains  all  that  has  hitherto  been  discovered  of  the  world,  made  by 
Diego  Ribero,  geographer  to  His  Majesty,  in  SeviUe,  1529,  and  contiauee  along 
the  lower  margin  as  follows: — '*  Which  is  divided  into  two  parts  according  to 
the  agreement  made  by  their  Catholic  Majesties  of  Spaiij  and  King  John  of 
Portugal  in  Fontesilla,  a.d.  1494."  The  line  of  divibion  as  made  by  Alex- 
ander Vi,  is  shown  on  this  map,  with  the  addition  of  a  flagstaiT  on  each  side, 
at  the  foot  cf  the  map,  one  of  which  carries  the  Spanish,  and  the  other  the 
Portuguese  fla^.  The  names  of  the  principal  towns  in  each  country  are  given, 
I  those  in  England  being  Bristo),  York,  and  I^on ires.     ^1  he  Irish  towns  are 

'  written  in  Celtic;  Jenisaleni  is  placed  about  1500  miles  distant  from  where  it 

really  exists,  and  has  three  crosses  to  indicate  Calvary.  Russia  is  covered  with 
representations  of  men,  trees,  and  beasts,  as  indeefi  (after  the  manner  of  the 
early  cartographers)  are  all  countries  in  those  placf^s  where  the  geography  was 
little  known.  The  delineation  of  tlie  oonsta  of  North  and  South  America  is 
I  interesting  as  showing  how  little  of  the  west  coast  was  known  at  the  time  the 

map  was  produced^  Labrador  is  the  farthest  northern  limit  of  America  laid 
down,  and  a  note  is  made  that  it  is  a  country  found  by  the  English,  and  of  no 
use.  In  one  corner  cf  the  mai>  is  a  quadrant,  witli  directions  for  its  use,  and  fn 
the  other  an  astrolabe.  The  work  of  reproduction  has  been  beautifully 
executed  by  Mr.  Griggs,  and  tlie  lettering  is  particularly  sharp  and  clear. 

Fetermann'a    *Geographische    Mitteilungen.'    3te^    Indexheft.      Ubersicht    dcr 
Karten  1875-1884.     4  sheels.    Justus  Perthes,  Gotha,  1886.    {Dulau,) 

These  are  a  most  valuable  set  of  indices  of  all  the  maps  published  in 
Petermann^fi  *  Geographische  Mitteilungen  *  for  ten  years  (1875-1884).  The 
Bystem  is  that  which  is  us^ially  adopted  in  index  maps,  with,  the  addition  of  the 


I 


NEW^MAPS.  63 

use  of  different  colours  in  the  lines,  by  whicb  the  scales  of  the  maps  referred  to 
can  be  ascertained ;  dotted  lines  indicating  physical  or  statistical  maps.  The 
number  of  maps  given  in  this  well-known  geographical  work  is  so  great, 
that  the  periodical  publication  of  such  indices  as  these  has  become  almost  a 
Decessity,  and  will  be  duly  appreciated  by  all  who  have  to  refer  to  the  back 
numbers  of  Petermann*s  *  Mitteilungen.' 

EUROPE. 

Central  Enropa. — Earte  von  Central  Europa  zur  Ubersicht  der  Eisenbahnen, 
einschliesslich  der  projectirten  Linien,  der  Gewasser  u.  hauptsachlichsten  Strassen. 
Kach  amtlichen  Quellen  bearbeitet  von  W.  Liebenow,  Greheimer  Rechn :  Hath  im 
££l:  Preuss:  Ministerium  der  ofifentl.  Arbeiten.  Scale  1:1,250,000  or  17*2 
geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Berlin,  1886.  Verlag,  Stich  und  Druck  des 
Berliner  lithogr.  Instituts.    Price  10«.    {G.  Philip  &  Son.) 

Deutschen  Reiches. — Karte  des  — .  Scale  1:100,000  or  1*3  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.  Herausgegeben  von  der  Kartogr.  Abtheilung  der  EOnigl. 
Preuss.  Landes-Aufnahme  1886.  Sheets  :  120,  Anklam ;  452,  Ereuzburg ;  586, 
Pfalzburg;  602,  Strassburg  i.  E. ;  604,  Calw.    Price  1«.  6fL  each.    (Dulau.) 

Paris. — Nouveau  Plan  de  ,  1887.     Scale  1420  feet  to  an  inch.    Lan^e, 

Editeor  G^ographe,  Paris.    Grav^  et  imprim6  par  Erhard.    Price  25.    (DtUau.) 

ORDNANCE  SURVEY  MAPS. 

Pablications  iisiied  during  the  month  of  November  1886. 
l-lneh— General  Mape : — 

SooTuan> :  121  (OatUne),  73  (HIIIb),  U.  9d.  each. 

8-inch— Comitj  Map8>-> 

EaQLAVD  AVD  Walb8  :  Brecknookshire :  26  N.E.,  SJ:.,  32  N.E.,  S.E. ;  it.  each.  Oambxldve- 
Shire:  S  S.W.,  23  S.W..  36  N.W.,  S.W.,  36  N.W..  63  N.W.,  &W..  8.E..  67  S.E.;  U.  eSch. 
Cardiganshire :  6  N.W..  lo  M.W..  u  S.E. ;  u.  each.  Carmarthenahire :  26  X.E.,  S.W.. 
&E. ;  l«.  eadi.  Devonshire :  30  N.W..  N.E.,  89  N. W.,  113  S.E.,  119  N.W..  N.E.,  8.W. ;  u.  each. 
Dorsetshire :  7  S.W..  8.E..  8  N  E.,  19  N.E. ;  u.  each,  aionoestershire :  29  S,E.,  38  S.W., 
54  N.E.,  66  N.E.  S.E.,  57  S.W.,  68  S.W.,  63  N.E.,  64  S.W.,  67  S.E,  68  N.E.,  69  N.W.,  72  N.E. 
73  &E. ;  u.  each.    Herefordshire :  is  S.B.,  28  S.E..  29  S.W.,  3i  N.E,  S.E.,  32  N.W.,  34  S.  W.. 

36  8.W.,  S.El;  If.  each.  Leicestershire:  43  S.W.,  S.E..  48  N.W,  N.E.,  S.W.;  u.  each. 
Lincolnshire :  7  N.E.,  8  N.E..  12  N.K.,  S.W.,  S.E.,  28  N.W..  37  8.W..  63  8.W..  77  N.W.,  86 
N.W..  N.E..  S.W.,  96  N.W.,  8.W. ;  i«.  each.  Merionethshire :  16  N. W.,  23  N.W.,  N.E  ;  u.  oa.  h. 
Xonmonthshire :  14,  2«.  6cl.;  16,26;  2«.  each.  Montjromeryshire :  4  N.W.,  13  N.W.. 
&W.;  U.  each.  Norfolk:  2  S.W.,  4  8.W.,  21  8.W,  32  N.W.,  K.E.,  S.W..  44  S.E.  51  N.E. 
56  N.W..  N.E.,  8.W.,  S.E.,  69  N.W..  S.W.,  81  N.W..  91  S.W.;  If.  each.    Nottinghamshire  : 

37  S.\V. ;  If.  Oxfordshire :  40 ;  2f .  6d.  Somersetshire :  I6  N.E.,  41  S.E.,  8I  S.\\\  8s  N. w. 
N.E..  S.W.,  92  N.E. ;  If.  each.  Suffolk :  31  N. W..  89  N.E.,  S.E. ;  If.  each.  Warwickshire  • 
12  S. W.,  18  N.W,  8.W..  19  S.E.,  26  N.E.,  S.E.,  26  N.W.,  28  8. W. ;  If.  each.    Wiltshire :  3  S.W.' 

.   18  SX;  If.  each. 

25-inoh— Ftfiah  Mape:— 

EvoLA»  AKD  Walbs:  Cambridgeshire:  XLIX.  2,  3f. ;  LV.  14,  4f.  Devonshire:  XIV.  a. 
14 ;  CXXXVIIL  8.  3f .  each.  Area  Booka :  Bradstone,  Ooryton,  Kelly,  If.  each  ;  Lifton,  If.  6d. ; 
StA»wford,  If. ;  Thruahelton,  If.  6d.  aioucestershire :  LXV.  11.  3f.;  LXV.  14,  4f, ;  LXV.  16, 
3f.  Area  Booka:  Admingtun,  Chipping  Campden,  Clopton,  Cow  Honeyboume,  Doraington. 
Hidooie  Bartrim,  IlmiDgton,  Kemerton,  Long  Marston,  Mickleton.  Ouinton,  Tewkesbury, 
Twyning.  Walton  Cardiff;  If.  each.  Herefordshire :  VII.  10,  XIV.  9,  XX.  8,  3f.  each. 
Hnntinffdonshire :    XX.  4,   3f.     Leicestershire:  XXIX.  10,  3f.;   XXIX.   i&.  4f . : 

XUV.  10,  3f.;  XUV.  13,  XLV.  10,  4f.;  XLVI.  10.  3f.;  L.  8,  6f.  6d.;  LL  6.  LIII.  14, 
3f.  each.  Area  Books:  Bottesford,  If.  Lincolnshire:  IX.  7,  10,  14.  3f.  each;  IX.  16. 
XVL  16,  4#.  each;  XVII.  2,  7.  8,  10,  11,  3f.  each;  XXVI.  9.  4f.;  XXVL  10,  11,  13,  14. 
3t.   each;  XXVI.    16.  4f.;    XXVI.    16.   XXXIV.   3.  3f.    each;   XXXIV.    4,    4f.;    XXXI V.    6. 

6,  3f.  each;  XXXIV.  8,  4f.;  XXXFV.  11,  6f.;  XXXIV.  16,  4f.;  XXXIV.  16.  3f.;  XXXV. 
1,  8,  4,  6,   8,  12,   13,  16,  3f.  each;  XLII.  4,  16,  4f.   each;    XLIII.   14,  XLIV.    1,   2,  3.   6,  6. 

7,  8.  9.  10,  11,  12.  13,  14.  16,  LI.  6,  3f.  each;  LI.  6,  4f.;  LII.  1.  2.  3.  7,  8,  9,  10,  12,  13.  14. 
16, 16. 3f.  each;  LX.  9.  4f.;  LX.  11. 13. 3f.  each;  LX.  16.  4f.;  LXL  1.  6.  CXIV.  13.  14.  CXXIIL  1 
3f.each.  Montgomeryshire :  XIV.  11.  XXI.  4.  7,  8,  16.  XXII.  6,  XXVIII.  14,  XLU.  1.  9. 
XUIL  3,  3f.  ea^.  Norfolk:  XIU.  4.  XVIII.  2.  3f.  each;  XIX.  t.  4f.;  XIX.  6,  11.  15,  16. 
XXXIX.  9,  XL.  11,  3f.;  XL.  12.  4f.  Area  Books:  Ashby  with  Oby.  Billlngfonl.  Bio  Norton.  Brea- 
•iDgham,  Borgh  St.  Margaret,  Mautly.  Postwick  (detached).  8andringham,  8oath  Lopbam,  8ioket»by 
with  HerriDgby.  Swanton.  Morley.  Toft  Monks  (detached  Noa.  1  and  2) ;  TottenhiU,  Upton  with 
flshley.  West  Newton.  If.  each;  Northamptonshire:  X.  10,  3f.;  XV.  s,  et.  Sd.;  XVI.  6. 
XXU.  14,  3f.  atch ;  XXIX.  13, 4f.  Nottinghamshire :  UI.  11, 4f. ;  III.  12.  I6.  IV.  6. 6.  9.  3f. 
each :  IV.  10,  4#. ;  IV.  11,  6f . ;  IV.  14,  3f. ;  IV.  16.  VII.  4,  7, 16.  4f.  each ;  VHI.  14,  3f . ;  X.  9,  XI.  9. 
4t. ;  XIV.  3,  XTL  13, 3f.  each.    Area  Books :  Averham,  Bradmore,  Epperstone,  Kirlingtoo.  Lodge  oa 


€4 


KEW  MAPS. 


IbB  WoWd.  IJ.  each;  Biulford Saint  Mary,  kc,  2*.  fiJ. ;  Sonthwell,  U.6<2. ;  Slaojiton.  Upton,  If.  ench,' 
Shropshire:  Area  Books:  Cortelfy.  Frtrlow,  Hopton '  Waf^r*.  li.  cawch.  So  zners«t  shire  : 
LI.  4,  LI.  1,  4f.  e»ch  ;  LU.  T,  6*.  6«i  ;  LIL  13»  U,it.  rich  ;  LIU.  11  IB,  LXV.,  10.  3f.  c»ch.  AroA 
Boolu:  BedniiuHter  (part  of),  Uumett,  Chelidfood,  Clu^w  Stoke,  Churcbitl.  Coogreabury,  Corston^ 
Keyiuib«iD,  KatlfteA,  Prlatdii,  Sultrord.  Siimion  r>rew,  Staiiton  Prior,  Wbitcburch,  Ijr.  eAch;  Wloford* 
li.6d,e*cb.  Sulfolk:  LXL  n.  34.;  LXXIVIL  7.  bt.  Area  Book^:  Kaititironl,  Boxled,  Burgh 
OuUe,  Onrltoa  Culv^Ule^  CbermRitou,  Creeling  St.  ^vj,  Fllxton,  Fiim-tDJi.Guuiua,  Harbeat,  HontuD 
fnetf  Bote^dttJH),  Keuiuti.  Kirlcky,  Little  Smnham,  Loweittoft,  ^[Icicfkld,  NettS^fltead.  Oulton* 
SonMsralum,  8om#non,  ^Unioij.  u.  c&ch.  Warwickshire :  XXX.  7,  fii.;  XLV.  4,  a,  XLVL  &, 
3t.  cacb.  Are4  Boot:  Tatufttnlh,  2*.  WiltBhire  I  Vll.  11,  3*. ;  VlL  II.  At. ;  VII.  VB»  XXVJIJ. 
3,  XXIX.  I,  d,  fi,  XXXIV,  6,  a*.  e»cb;  XaXIV.  13,  5».  Worcestershire:  XXIII.  7.  fit; 
XXVITL  J6,  16,  XXXllI  11.  IB,  XLII,  19.  4i.  cacb ;  XLIX.  a,  6*.  fid.  Arva  Book* :  Bcugewortb. 
Bentk-y,  Pouoctfixil,  Ctoplbom*'.  Donriiiton,  Hjunpton  Lav«U,  HoldfitHt,  li.cAch;  Inkberrow,  1*.  6<J.; 
KIOKttjn,  Nortb  nnd  Middle  Uuleton,  OITeohiinj,  Sftiiit  NtchoUa,  Soutb  Littleton,  Stock  md  Bradley, 
We»iwood  P&rk,  U,  encb. 

Town  Plans — nJ-ft*t«caJe: — 

LliGLAi^D  ANi>  Walks';  :  Cambridge,  XL.  14,  H,  13,  1^  1<  IT,  IS,  19.  30;  XL.  15*  e.  tl,  It.  21,  2f. 
eftcb.  D<?vl*eii.  XXXIV.  IS,  fi,  fl*  15,  lio;  XXXIV,  14,1.2.7,12.  Ifl.  2f.  emch,  KctterinB.  XXV. 
10,  fl.  t,  11, 12,  1 6.  IT,  n,  21,  22.  23,  24  ;  XXV.  14»  1,  3,  7,  8. 1 1, 12,  13, 17,  It.  ench    Leicester,  XXXL 

15,  6,  17,  21.  t&ch.    PtU^rborougb,  VI IL  7»  l^Ji  VIIL  11.  H,  la,  U  ;  VilL  16. ».  13. 16,19,;  VUL 

16,  e  ;  *J*.  ewA,  SbcpUwi  M*J1H.  XLL  8,  23;  XLL  12t  3,  fi.  7,  8,  12,  13,  U,  iT*  1«,  19.  30,  31,  22, 
23,  24,  25;  2».  MCli.  WelU,  XLL  1,  24  ;  XLl.  6*3,  4,  B.  8,  %  I'i.  13, 17 ;  2i.  tttuh.  West  BroiDwkh, 
LXVUL  6,  20»  aa,  23,  24;  LXVIlL  10.  -2*  ^,  7,  9,  13,  17,  24.  25  ;  2$.  ftkch.  Wolrerhamptoa,  LXIL 
6,  6.  9.  10  11,  12,  13,  14,  J5,  n,  18.  10.  30,  23,  24;  LXIL  IQ.  4.  B,  ^,  t,  10,  14.  IB.  19,  2U« 
2S:  LXIL  14>  6;  2t.  eacb,  YcctII,  LXXXIIL  13^  10,  IB,  34;  LXXXllL  14,  32;  XC,2,  I  i  aj. 
eftCJi* 

iSta^ford,  Agmt.) 

AFEICA. 

AbeisinieB* — Utersiclatskarte  der  Reiseroulen  des  Knpitans  A.  Ceccliio  und  des 

lugcnieurs  G,  Cliiarini  iin  Bt\dlichen  ■,  1S7(>   bis  1881.     Scale  1 1 4,000,000 

or  55* 5  geograpbicat  milea  to  au  inch.  Peterniaon's  *  G^ograpkisclie  MitteilungeD,' 
1886,  TafeL  15,    Justus  Perthes,  Gotha.    (Bidau,) 

Aequatorialen  Ost-Afrika.— VorliiuGge  Skizxe  von  Dr.  G,  A,  Fiecber's  3ter  Reise 

im ;  3.  August  1885  hh  14  Juni  188G,     Scale  1:4,000,000  or  55*5  gco- 

graphical  miles  to  au  iach.  reternjauQ^s  *  Geographificho  Mitteilungen,'  Jahrgaug 
1886,  Taf,  19.    Justus  Perthes,  Gothft,  1886.    (Duiau.) 

Afrika. — Kartc  von  ,  mit  besondere  Beriicksicbt  der  deutscben  Eolonion. 

Scale  1 :  lO.OOO^OfX)  or  133 '3  geographical  miles  ,«to  an  inch.  W,  Liebenow. 
Berlin,  Berliner  Lithographiscbe  Institute    4  Blatt.     Price  6s.    (Dulau^) 

'KQtkgQ' — l^io  Nebenfiiiaae  dea  mittlern ,  Lulongo,  Tacbuapi,  Mobangi  u.  a. 

Nach  den  Aufuahmen  von  Prcmierleut,  Curt  v,  FraticQis  nnd  Reverend  George 
Grenfell  im  englischen  Misaionsdampfer  "Peace,"  1884  und  1885,  Scale 
1  :  2,000,000  or  27  geographical  miles  to  au  inch.  Pet«nuaun*s  *  Geograpbische 
Mitteilungen,*  Jabrgang  1886,  Tafel  16.     Justus  Perthes,  Gotha,    {Duiau.)- 

Madagascar.— A|Map  of (M^aga8kim),by  Captain  S^Paafield  Oliver,  f.b,1,, 

F.B,G.s,,  late  Royal  Artillery,  Scale  1 :  2,661,120  or  36*5  geographical  miles 
to  an  inch,    London :  Macmillan  Sc  Go« 

This  18  a  very  nicely  drawn  amp,  on  which  the  present  fitate  of  our  geo- 
graphical knowledge  of  Madagascar  is  well  representt^d.  The  coast-line  is  taken 
from  the  Admiralty  charts,  and  the  interior  from  the  explorations  and  surveys 
of  the  most  recent  and  reliable  travellers.  The  hill  shading  is  based  on  that  of 
the  map  of  the  French  War  Department,  compiled  hy  CoL  Regnauld  de  Lannoy 
de  Biaay,  and  the  noraeuchUure  is  from  Graudidier's  Geographic,  with  corrections 
and  accents  hy  Richardson  and  PickorsgilL  Towns,  tbrts,  and  villages  are  iodi- 
cated  by  symbols, 

OBt-AMka.^ — Originalkarte  von  Joachim  Graf  Pfeil's  Reisen  in .      Okt.  1885 

bia  Fehr,  1886.  Scale  1:1,750,000  or  23*9  geographical  niiies  to  an  inch. 
Petermann'a  *  Geographische  Mitteilungen,*  Jahrgang  1886,  Taf.  18.  Justus 
Perthes,  Gotha.    (Dulau,) 


NEW  MAPS.  65 

AMERICA  AND  WEST  INDIES. 

Canada^ — M^ckinlay's  Map  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  of  the  Dominion  of , 

ooiapiled  from  recent  surveys.    Scale  1 : 480,000  or  6*5  geographical  miles  to  an 
inch.    4  sheets.    Puhlished  hy  6.  Philip  &  Son,  London  and  LiverpooL 

In  this  map^  which  is  carefully  drawn,  and  has  been  brought  up  to  date,  all 
county  boundaries,  townships,  railways  and  Tx>ads  are  laid  down,  and  all  the 
prindpal  heights  are  given  in  feet.  The  work  has  been  neatly  executed,  but  it 
is  somewhat  over  coloured  ;  this  is  very  apparent  in  the  N.E.  sheets  many  of 
the  names  of  places  in  King  County,  Prince  Edward  Island,  being  quite  obscured, 
and  the  smaller  indentations  on  the  coast  quite  hidden  ;  this  is  so  perceptible 
that  it  is  to  be  hoped  in  any  future  editions  of  this  map  that  may  be  published,, 
a  lighter  shade  of  transparent  colour  may  replace  the  dark  and  opaque  shades 
which  go  so  (ar  to  mar  its  utility. 

Puerto  Bico. — Mapa  Topogrdfico  de  la  Isia  de ,    Publicado  por  G.  W.  & 

C.  B.  Colton  y  Comp^     Nueva  York,  1886.    Scale  1 :  250,000  or  3*4  geographi- 
cal miles  to  an  inch.    Price  9s.    (G,  Philip  &  Son,) 

Though  this  map  gives  a  considerable  amount  of  detail  as  regards  the  interior 
of  the  island  of  Puerto  Rico,  it  is  greatly  wanting  in  the  manner  in  which  the 
physical  features  are  illustrated ;  the  hill-shading,  which  has  been  done  in  chalk, 
is  so  confused  that  it  would  be  difiScult  to  trace  the  valleys,  or  even  the  direc- 
tion of  the  mountain  ranges.  The  limits  of  departments  and  roads  are  laid 
down,  and  the  comparative  importance  of  the  towns  is  indicated  by  symbols ;  the 
heights  of  the  mountains  are  not  given. 

Vereinigten  Staaten  und  yon  Canada^  Landwirtschaftskarte  dcr  fur 

das  Zensusjahr  1880  bez.  1881.  Von  A.  Supan.  Scale  1  :  7,600,000  or  102*7 
geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Nebenkarte,  Verbreitung  der  Weizenkultur  nach 
Brewer.  1 :  30,000,000.  Petermann's  *  Geographische  Mitteilungen,'Eiganzung8- 
heft  Nr.  84,  Tat  1.    Justus  Perthes,  Gotha.    (Dulau.) 

Industriekarte  der fiir  das  Zensusjahr  1880  bez.  1881.    Von 

A.  Supan.  Scale  1 :  7,600,000  or  102  •  7  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Neben- 
karten :  Verbreitung  der  Tabakkultur  im  Jahre  1879 ;  1  :  30,000,000.  Verbrei- 
tung der  Baumwollkultur  nach  Hilgard ;  1  :  11,000,000.  Petermann's  •  Geo- 
graphische Mitteilungen,'  Erganzungsheft  Nr.  84,  Taf.  2.  Justus  Perthes, 
Gotha.    iDulau.) 

AUSTRALIA. 

Few  South  Wales.— Map  of .    Scale  1 :  2,100,000  or  29  geographical  mile* 

to  an  inch.    E.  Stanford,  London,  1886.    Price  3x. 
(Queensland. — ^Map  of .    Scale  1 : 4,000,000  or  55-5  geographical  miles  to  an 

inch.    E.  Stanford,  London,  1886.    Price  3«. 

South  Australia.— Map  of .    Scale  1:4,000,000  or  65-6  geographical  miles 

to  an  inch.    E.  Stanford,  London,  1886.    Price  38. 

T^ctoria.— Map  of .    Scale  1 : 2,100,000  or  29  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

E.  Stanford,  London,  1886.    Price  35. 

CHARTS. 

Admiralty. — Charts  and   Plans   published    by  the    Hydrographic  Department, 
Admiralty,  in  September  and  October  1886. 
No.  Inches. 

298        m      =        8-8      Newfoundland :— St.  John's  harbour,  1«.  6(/. 

956        m      =         O'll    West  Indies: — Guadeloupe  to  Trinidad.    2».  Grf. 
924        m      =         1-0      Bay  of  Bengal :— Tavoy  river.    2«.  6c?. 
No.  I— Tak.  1887]  F 


€6  NEW  MAPS. 

No.  Jnch(>s. 

218        m      =        4'0      Bay  of  Bengal,  Mergui  archipelago : — Mergui  harbour. 

28. 

^55        m      =        2*0      Borneo,  north-west  coast: — Loutnt  point  to  Graya  head, 
including  Ga3ra  and  Sapangar  bays.    Is.  6(/. 

925  m      =        1.5      Australia,  north-coast :— Port  Darwin.    2«.  6i. 

926  /    "^      ~        ^'0\     New  Guinea,  north-east  coast: — ^Ward  Hunt  strait. 
I    m      =        6*0/    Yasaiasa  anchorage.    Luther  anchorage.    ls,Qd. 

604  Africa,  west  coast: — Plans  added.    Olongubuna  point  anchorage.     Femand 
Vaz  entrance.    Cape  Lopez  bay  and  entrance  of  Ogow^  river. 
1807  Australia, Carpentaria  gulf: — Plan  added,  Norman  river  entrance. 
{Potter^  agent,) 

CHARTS  CANCELLED. 

No.'                                                                                                        Cancelled  bj  Xo. 

^98  St.  John's  harbour New  plan,  St.  John's  harbour    ..  298 

603  Cape  Lopez  bay New  plans  on       604 

835  Plan  of  Tavoy  river  on  this  sheet ..       New  plan,  Tavoy  river        ..      ..  924 

218  Mergui  harbour       New  plan,  Mergui  harbour ..      ..  218 

CHARTS  THAT  HAVE  RECEIVED  IMPORTANT  CORRECTIONS. 

No.  2593.  North  sea : — Ameland  to  Jade  river.  2291.  Norway,  west  coast : — 
Bergen  to  Stav  fiord.  121.  Baltic  sea: — Koster  islands  and  approaches  to 
Stromstad.  2346.  Baltic  sea,  Sweden: — ^Winga  sound  or  Gotheborg  Skargard. 
2664,  France,  west  coast: — D'Arcachon  point  to  Coubre  point.  178.  Africa, 
north  coast: — Stora  and  Philippville  anchorages,  &c.  2480.  North  America,  east 
coast : — Block  island  to  Great  Egg  harbour.  35oa.  North  America,  east  coast : — 
Chesapeake  bay.  456.  Jamaica : — Port  Royal  and  Kingston  harbours.  2004.  South 
America,  east  coast : — Colonia  roads.  561.  South  America,  west  coast : — Magellan 
strait  to  gulf  of  Penas.  1229.  Africa,  west  coast: — Santa  Cruz  to  cape  Bajador. 
1877.  Africa,  west  coast: — Gaboon  river.  679.  Madagascar: — Look^,  Leven, 
Andrava,  and  Vohemar  bays.  920.  Indian  Ocean: — ^Diego  Garcia.  453.  Red 
sea : — Islands  in  southern  portion  of  Red  sea.  835.  Bay  of  Bengal :— Bentinck 
sound.  Port  Owen.  2056.  Eastern  archipelago: — Sunda  strait.  2111.  Borneo, 
west  coast : — Nosong  point  to  Ambong  bay.  949.  Eastern  archipelago : — Ports  in 
Philippine  islands.  930.  Eastern  archipelago :— Anchorages  between  Borneo  and 
New  Guinea.  2875.  Japan: — Setouchi  or  Inland  sea.  2351.  Australia,  north- 
•  east  coast :— Cape  Tribulation  to  cape  Flattery.  2421,  South  Pacific  ocean : — 
Tonga  or  Friendly  islands.    {Potter^  agent.) 

North  Atlantic  Ocean. — Pilot  Chart  of  the ,  October,  November,  December, 

1886.  Published  at  the  Hydrographic  Office,  Navy  Department,  Washington,  D.C. 
J.  R.  Bartlett,  Commander  u.s.n.,  Hydrographer  to  the  Bureau  of  Navigation. 

ATLASES. 

Australia. — The  New  Atlas  of .    The  complete  work  containing  over  ono 

hundred  maps,  and  full  descriptive  geography  of  New  South  Wales,  Victoria, 
Queensland,  South  Australia  and  Western  Australia,  tosjether  with  numerous 
illustrations  and  copious  indices.  Sydney,  John  Sands.  Price  21,  2s,  (this  part). 
{Stanford,) 

This  is  the  first  part  of  an  atlas  of  Australia,  which,  when  complete,  will  con- 
sist of  one  hundred  large  maps  of  the  divisions,  districts,  and  counties  of  the 
Australian  colonics.  The  present  issue  contains  a  large  amount  of  letterpress, 
in  which  a  general  description  of  the  physical  geography,  geology,  natural 
history,  means  of  communication,  aborigines,  &;c,  of  Australia  is  given ;  this  is 
followed  by  a  more  detailed  account  of  New  South  Wales  which  contains  much 
useful  statistical  information.    With  the  exception  of  five  maps,  consisting  of 


citf  tf  aevmec  v  jcr^  wetM  iok»  rf  txif  f^irrtTMiK  ^  Nev  ScuxL  Wjlic^  ^z. 
'viiia.  aie  aoanoKas  oE  T^nt^^x  n  sbc*«x,  sue  w  laif  pKisCMS  iSNCBff^nK  ky 
'^rvmF  -vis.  a  Trmr'iin^  }^  -w^Ur^ii^  iz  -^  index  iiif  aisiie  rsL  V  jMoirsKxiAl. 


Ibn-'Viirg  xi  IV  CW«r  I>roae.  I>e.  Geocr  <5«Ei«ii.  I>r.  Jrirw  Htim,  IV.  G, 
Hirr'iKTK  De.  TT.  Mi-iffw",  Dt  GaoEx:  XfcniyBr,  X3»d  I>r.  Karl  t.  Ssm^,  berxEi^ 

oer  Tree:  L  S«2aB*  Laefercsr.  libili:  Xr, ^ W«ta«faffwc:c3>d 2qcs5r»«c^ 
Xr.  4S.  ATOjt  ssffiFvillter  C»r2iiTn;|rsE.  Xr.  Sci,  Ttali:tCi.*xg  oer  V^ad  IL 
GisLiL.  JnstBf  Ferttao,  lSc*f>.    Pxioe  **.  cad  piru    (^I>««a«.) 

Mat.  Xo.  25  sbcnre  tie  lycraziiiiT  «  tbe  Xcnii  S«k  tbe  Btliacw  xie 
EncSs^CiiioiBu,  jou:  -m  B»t  ci  ^«t  ;  liew  j«  aiso  io(Qn«a  i»rt  '^^^  ^ 

Xvi.  ^  ptTB  tbe  isccbenss  azui  isShus  xr  Eziicf^  i:i  the  racQihs  of  IVoescKer 

lie  ^MOibntioQ  oc  tool,  Ciias  Xo.  1,  ilroogjicict  the  '■•orii  Jfljd  «a  k»5  laip* 
ct  a  Twx  TBduoBfl  leak,  is  civeu  fiawiisc  tSe  dirtribcti^  of  Jtaimtl  K*  acKVCv> 
izc  w  P^cdeaKc  WaLaoe.  Xc«.  S5  »  a  wwtber  *od  wii>d  aian.  Xa  4:^  s^^«^ 
tie  &snbcDOQ  of  trpcal  j^acts.  aac  Xcv.  ^  the  cistrilctJoai  of  l&i^  CUss 
Xo.  2.  Aii  the  ina|»  are  beainifcilT  diairn,  the  leiwiiiig  i*  cl«r,  and  li^' 
srmbotf  and  oooocis  veiU  chowo. 

dtlA  Eqire.— The  Qoeec's  Jnlslee  Atlas  of  the ^  with  rVscrin^ve  arsl 

Tfittrnral  Xoc«  azxi  Stanstical  Tables.  Br  J.  Fxaaom  Williams  r^G.sv 
LcDdoc,  Georre  Ptilip  &  Sc«i,  1SS7.    Price  1*^  «•  K«aDd  in  doth  S«. 

TrJB  ai^as,  in  aAiiikBi  to  the  nafs,  ooctuns  thirty-ioar  pages  of  cxrfau^oTx 
Dous,  i^  wLidi  a  liief  sketch  c«f  the  histoiy  azxi  geography  of  e«i  Brit::^i 
Cc»J:cy  is  given.  A  valiishie  ftatistical  tal4e  of  the  form  of  GovemnKr.i^ 
pcj^QlanaosT  areas,  imports,  exports.  Ac,  will  be  focod  at  the  begixmins:  and  eno 
of  the  boc^k.     The  maps  are  lairly  drawn,  and  are  not   o^rrcrowxk^i  w::h 


Fmee. — ^Albcin  de  Statistiqne  Gimj^iiqne  de  l^SS,  Miaister\e  des  Travaux 
PuKics.     Paris,  Imprimerie  XatSoosle,  ld8&    (ZMoau) 

This  atlas  cnntains  statisticsl  informatkn  of  gneat  Tslne  with  it^ftid  t.> 
Hieans  of  oommnnicatioQ,  and  the  tnnspon  of  merchandise  by  tail  and  m  A:ex 
in  France.  The  maps  are  twccty-one  in  nmnber;  the  first  eleven  have  nefcrenoe 
I J  railway  enterprise  in  I$S3,*then  ibUow  seven  maps  giving  statistics  with 
lecard  to  internal  navigrtion,  one  iUnstrsting  the  pivpartions  <rf  the  m«ctntile 
Diinnc  of  the  pdncip^  coontries  in  IdSS,  and  condndes  with  two  diagrams 
jiaving  reference  to  the  tramways  and  other  means  of  comn^unicatK^n  in  Pans 
from  1660  to  1884.  llie  system  adopted  in  these  maps  is  ample  and  ossily 
tmderstood,  in  additi(»i  to  which  ejich  sheet  contains  explanatory  xh>tes. 

FritBChe,  O.  E. — Xoovo  Atlante  Geografico  ad  uao  del!e  Scoole  Xormali  o 
Secocdarie  disegoato  Mto  la  direzione  dell'  Ingegnere  Dottore  Lnigi  Hugnes  da 
G.  E.  Fritrsche.  Fascicolo  Secooda  8  carte.  Torino:  Dita  G.  B.  Pftiavia  c 
Comp.  1887.    (Dtt/au,) 

This  is  the  second  issue  of  an  atlas  intended  for  the  use  of  schools.  After 
some  introductory  remarks,  there  follow  thirteen  pages  con  tuning  statistics 


68  NEW  MAPS. 

witli  reference  to  populations,  areas,  and  physical  geography.  The  maps  aK» 
eight  in  number,  and  are  vreW  calculated  lor  the  purpose  for  which  they  were 
published. 

ASTBONOMICAL. 

Moon. — Tho  Handy  Map  of  the .    T.  K.  Mellor,  f.r.a.s.,  del.    Home,  Thom- 

thwaito,  &  Wood,  Opticians,  London.    Price  Ss. 

Though  there  are  many  published  maps  of  the  moon,  they  are,  for  the  mosfc 
|)art,  drawn  on  too  iBTge  a  scale  to  be  of  much  service  to  the  student  of  seleno- 
graphy, who  may  oiUy  be  possessed  of  a  teloscoi^  of  small  aperture,  and 
who  may  desire,  in  the  first  place,  rather  to  study  tho  moon  aa  a  whole 
than  any  particular  portion  of  its  surface.  For  the  use  of  such  begirmers 
as  these  this  map  is  well  suited;  it  is  handy  in  size,  gives  the  names  of 
about  300  formations,  in  the  same  manner  as  mountains,  lakes,  ftc, 
are  named  on  terrestrial  maps,  and  not  as  is  frequently  the  case  with 
maps  of  tho  moon,  by  numbers  which  require  reference  to  an  index.  This 
is  a  great  advantage  for  tho  student  when  it  is  remembered  that  his 
work  is  almost  always  carried  on  by  the  light  of  a  lantern,  and  often  in  winter 
nights  when  tho  fingers  are  cold  and  it  is  extremely  inconvenient  to  torn 
over  the  leaves  of  books  of  reference.  In  the  matter  of  price  this  map  has  the 
advantage  of  being  cheaper  than  any  other  of  the  same  class.  It  snows  the 
positions  of  the  different  objects  of  interest  without  professing  to  bo  pictures  of 
them,  and  by  its  aid  the  student  of  selenography  would  soon  become  familiar 
with  the  principal  features  of  the  moon*s  surface,  when  he  could  carry  his> 
studies  farther  with  the  aid  of  more  elaborate  maps ;  but  until  then,  this  map 
will  be  quite  sufficient  for  all  his  wants. 

Planispliere. — Philips'  Kevolving ,  showing  the  principal  stars  visible  for  every 

hour  in  the  year.    G.  Philip  Se  Son,  London.    Price  2«. 

This  planisphere  is  an  improvement  on  those  previously  constructed,  as  it 
revolves  in  a  frame  instead  of  a  centre-pin,  which  in  the  older  form  soon  worked 
loose ;  it  is  also  smaller,  more  handy,  and  the  constellations  are  clearly  shown 
in  white  on  a  dark  ground,  without  pictures,  which  only  tend  to  confusion.  As 
the  aspect  of  the  heavens,  in  tho  latitude  of  London,  with  regard  to  the  principal 
fixed  stars,  can  be  exhibited  with  this  planisphere  for  every  hour  in  the  year,  il 
should  be  useful  to  those  who,  having  no  previous  knowledge,  desire  to  study 
astronomy. 


PKOCEEDINGS 

OF  THE 

ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  BECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


The  Dragon  Lake  ofPdmlr. 

By  Major-Greneral  Sir  Henby  G.  Bawlinson,  k.o.b. 

I  DESIRE  to  draw  attention  to  the  excellent  geographical  work  performed 
by  Mr.  Ney  Elias  in  his  recent  journey  of  360  miles  across  the  Pamir 
Plateau,  from  the  vicinity  of  Tengi-Hissar  to  ShignAn.    When  Major 
Trotter,  some  years  back,  first  brought  this   Central  Pdmfr  track  to 
the  notice  of  geographers,  in  the  Appendix  to  Sir  D.  Forsyth's  Turki- 
«tan  Report  (p.  457,  Ronte  XXVII.),  I  ventured  to  suggest  to  the 
Society  *  that  it  represented  the  famous  trade-route  of  antiquity,  by 
which  the  caravans  of  Home  passed  from  Bactria  along  the  ''Yallis 
Oomedarum  "  to  the  famous  Stone  Tower  on  the  border  of  the  Chinese 
territory ;  and  I  farther  undertook  to  show  from  a  reference  to  various 
liistorical  notices,  that  it  had  been  used  as  a  military  road  io  compara- 
tively modem  times;  but  I  had  not  then  sufficient  evidence  to  prove 
that  Hwang-Tsang,  the  Chinese  traveller  of  the  seventh  century,  had 
followed  the  same  track,  or  that  the  famous  Dragon  Lake,  the  central 
point  of  Jambu-dwipa,  and  the  holiest  spot  in   the  whole  Buddhist 
cosmogony,  which  he  had  assigned  to  this  region,  was  really  to  be 
identified  on  the  line  between  Eashgar  and  Shigndti.    Mr.  Ney  Elias's 
journey  has  thrown  an  unexpected  light  on  this  subject.     We  now  find 
that  the  Bang-Eul,  which  occurs  at  the  seventh  stage  from  the  eastern 
horder  of  the  PAmfr  Plateau,  and  which,  with  the  exception  of  the  great 
Eara-Eul  Lake,  lying  far  away  to  the  northward,  is  the  largest  expanse 
of  water  throughout  this  mountain  region,  answers  very  closely  to  the 
description  of  the  Buddhist  pilgrim.     The  Si-yu-ki  says  that  the  soil  is 
impregnated  with   salt,  yet  that  the  waters  of  the  lake  are  sweet. 
Mr.  Ney  Elias  found  that  the  banks  of  the  lake  were  covered  with 
efflorescent  and  incrusted  salts,  while  the  water  was  considered  to  be 
fresh.     The  colour  is  stated  by  both  authorities  to  be  a  deep  clear  blue, 
and  the  multitude  of  wild  fowl  which  cover  its  surface  and  swarm 
around  its  banks,  attracted  the  special  notice,  both  of  the  older  and 
♦  •  Proceedings  R.a.S.,'  vol.  vi.  p.  502. 
No.  XL— Feb.  1887.]  o 


70 


THE  DEAGON  LAKE  OF  PAMIK. 


more  moderti  travellers.  But  tlie  most  curious  proof  of  identity  is  to  ho 
foond  in  the  Dragon  mytli  whicli  attached  to  the  lake.  The  Buddhists 
of  Central  Asia,  confounding  this  northern  basin  with  the  Miinasarowar 
lake  of  Tibet,  gave  it  the  mystical  name  of  Anava  (or  Anavatatta) 
and  supposed  it  to  be  presided  over  by  a  dragon,  whence  the  title  of 
Nagahrada  or  EavanahrAda ;  and  ]^Ir.  Nej  Elias  waa  able  to  trace  the 
same  belief  among  the  Kirghiz  of  Raug-Kul  at  the  present  time.  The 
following  extract  from  bis  report  will  show,  indeed,  that  the  Dragon 
King  reigns  SBpreme  in  PAmir  to*day.  Just  aa  he  did  in  the  time  of 
Hwang-Tsang,  or  perhaps  1000  years  preTionsly. 

'*  In  following  the  track  down  the  south  shore  of  the  Eang-Knl  a 
rock  or  cliff  is  passed,  standing  about  100  yards  from  the  water's  edge, 
and  presenting  a  sheer  front  of  about  100  feet  in  height  towards  the 
lake.  This  is  called  the  Cheragh-Tasb,  or  *'  lamp  rock,"  famous  over 
these  regions  for  a  light  which  always  bums  in  a  cave,  near  the  top  of 
tho  cliff,  and  is  the  object  of  a  good  deal  of  superstitious  a  wo  on  the 
part  of  all  Kirghiz,  Shignis,  and  others  who  know  the  locality.  To  all 
appearance  a  steady  white  iame  burns  within  the  cave,  but  even  with  a 
powerful  field-glass  I  could  make  out  nothing  more.  My  impression 
was  that  there  must  be  some  phosphorescent  suhstance  far  back  in  the 
cave,  bnt  this,  I  was  assured,  was  quite  an  erroneous  view,  tho  real  fact 
being  that  vast  treasures  ai*e  stored  in  it,  which  are  guarded  by  a 
dragon  with  a  large  diamond  set  in  hia  forehead,  and  it  is  this  diamond 
which  shines  hy  day  and  night.  The  cliff  did  not  appear  difficult  to 
Bcale,  but  no  native  of  these  parts  would  ever  venture  to  pry  so  closely 
into  the  secret  of  the  light  as  to  attempt  to  enter  the  cave." 

In  the  real  Buddhist  cosmogony  the  fonr  rivers  of  Paradise  are 
supposed  to  jseuo  from  the  Dragon  Lake,  but  Hwang-Tsang  merely 
notices  the  two  principal  streams^  the  Sita  to  the  east  and  tho  Po-taon 
or  Oxus  to  the  west,  and  of  these  it  is  ip  reality  only  the  western  outlet 
which  by  an  nnderground  course  of  nine  miles  is  said  to  communicate 
with  the  Ak-Beitdl,  and  thus  to  fall  into  the  !^Iurghabi,  which  joins  the 
Penj  at  Waraar,  on  the  confines,  as  Hwang-Tsang  says^  of  Ta-mo-si-tie-ti, 
or  Darwaz,  His  derivation  of  the  Sita  or  Kashgar  river  from  an  eastern 
opening  in  the  lake,  as  well  as  the  enormous  dimensions  which  he  gives 
to  the  lake  (three  days'  jonmey  from  east  to  west,  and  five  days*  journey 
from  north  to  south),  are  due  to  tho  usual  proneness  of  Orientals  to 
exaggeration,  bnt  do  not  affect  the  general  accuracy  of  his  notice. 

I  may  add  that  Mr.  Ney  Elias,  in  two  positions,  on  the  Little 
Kara  Knl  and  tho  Yeshil  Kul,  discovered  memorials  of  the  passage 
of  the  Chinese  troops,  who  in  1759  pursued  the  fugitive  Khojas  as  far 
as  the  latter  point  in  their  flight  to  Badakhshan,  and  also  found  a 
Persian  inscription  in  Shign^n,  said  to  be  600  years  old,  relating  to  a 
local  b<3undary.  The  improvements  which  his  survey  operations  intro- 
duce into  tho  map  of  Pamir,  as  laid  down  by  recent  Euasian  topographers. 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH-EASTERN  NEW  GUINEA.  71 

are  Important,  but  cannot  be  duly  appreciated  or  discussed  until  the 
Government  of  India  finds  it  in  conformity  with  the  public  interests  to 
publish  Mr.  Ney  Elias's  Report  for  general  information. 


Explorations  in  South-Easiern  New  Guinea. 
By  Eev.  J.  Chalmers. 

(Bead  at  the  Eyening  Meeting,  January  17tb,  1887.) 
liap,  p.  140. 

To  a  Fellow  of  this  Society,  the  Rev.  W.  G.  Lawes,  belongs  the  high 
honour,  I  think,  of  being  cidled  the  father  of  New  Guinea  travel.  Before 
him  little  had  been  done  in  penetrating  into  the  interior  of  the  island,  and 
no  name  has  been  more  used  by  after  travellers,  as  a  password  to  known 
and  unknown  tribes,  than  that  of  **  Misi  Lao,"  the  well-known  missionary. 
My  first  travel  began  with  his  infiuence  and  the  frequent  use  of  his 
name,  and  through  him  my  first  tramp  was  made  easy  by  the  confidence 
natives  had  in  him.  Under  this  influenoe  they  accompanied  us  as  far  as 
white  man  had  then  got. 

You  will  forgive  me  if  I  run  hurriedly  over  my  first  travels  before 
giving  a  detailed  account  of  a  trip  I  made  two  years  ago  to  the  district 
around  Bald  Head. 

I  first  landed  in  New  Guinea  in  1877,  but  it  was  not  until  1878  that 
I  began  my  travels  in  unknown  regions.  I  am  a  missionary  of  the 
London  Missionary  Society,  and  as  such,  in  carrying  out  the  wishes  of 
the  Direotors,  it  fell  to  my  lot  to  seek  for  healthy  localities  for  the 
settlement  of  native  teachers.  These  native  Christian  teachers  with 
their  wives  were  introduced  from  the  South  Sea  Islands.  They  are  the 
true  pioneers  in  New  Guinea,  and  to  them  travellers  of  all  kinds,  scien- 
tists, and  explorers,  as  well  as  Christian  missionaries,  owe  much.  Permit 
me  to  say  that  these  South  Sea  Islands  teachers  must  be  credited 
with  the  greater  part  of  the  success  attending  the  peaceable  proclama- 
tion of  the  British  Protectorate ;  and  the  gallant  commodore,  whose  high 
honour  it  was  to  proclaim  that  protectorate,  thoroughly  recognised  this 
fact.  Since  then,  the  late  Major-General  Sir  Peter  Scratchley  again 
and  again  said  to  me  how  much  he  wished  he  could  get  such  men  and 
women  to  assist  him.  They  are,  though  Polynesians,  true  Britons  to 
the  backbone,  and  swear  by  Queen  Victoria  and  her  officers ;  and  where- 
ever  they  go  the  Queen  is  one  of  their  great  subjects  of  conversation,  a 
kind  of  fairy  tale,  with  which  to  charm ;  and  often  have  I  seen  uncouth 
savages  listen  with  starting  eyes  and  open  mouth  when  "  Victoria's " 
greatness  and  goodness  have  been  told. 

In  the  beginning  of  1878,  my  wife  and  I,  on  board  the  mission 
steamer  Ellengowan^  visited  the  whole  coast  from  China  Straits  to  Hall 

a  2 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH-EASTERN  NEW  GUINEA. 


-< 


Sound.    Previoua  to  this  trip  very  little  had  been  known  of  all  that 
coast-line. 

On  referring  to  any  old  charts  yon  will  find  that  between  Heath 
Island  and  the  Leocadie,  there  is  a  part  of  the  coast  entirely  unexplored. 
This  was  visited  by  ns.  It  was  a  large  bay,  which  we  named  *'  Inverary 
Bay,"  and  sailing  through  it,  landing  at  two  places,  we  passed  into  a 
Yery  good  harbour  between  the  Leocadie  and  the  mainland.  Wo  were 
soon  on  friendly  terms  with  the  natives,  who  were  very  anxious  we 
ahould  come  and  live  with  them.  They  gave  the  largest  island  of  the 
small  group  in  perpetuity  to  the  London  Missionary  Society,  on  con- 
dition that  a  teacher  was  placed  amongst  them.  There  are  no  natives 
living  on  the  islands,  and  there  are  only  small  villages  on  the  mainland 
near  by.  On  the  island  passed  over  to  the  Society,  is  a  tree  rent  from 
top  to  bottom  by  lightning,  A  poor  woman  t<x>k  refuge  under  it  in  a 
storm,  and  sat  on  the  roots  and  was  killed  ;  the  only  case  I  have  known 
in  the  tropics  of  any  one  killed  by  lightning.  From  there  yon  pass  on 
to  Catamaran  Bay,  where  there  are  numerous  villages,  and,  with  the  ei- 
oeption  of  Tano  Sina,  as  fine  a  lot  of  natives  as  are  to  be  found  anywhere. 
We  entered  this  bay  near  to  South  Cape  on  Suau  or  Stacy  Island, 
where  it  opens  into  what  it  has  been  proposed  to  call  **Port  Erakine,'' 
after  the  gallant  commodore  who  proclaimed  the  Protectorate. 

Passing  on  from  Port  Erskine,  round  Kugged  Head,  is  EossBay,  and 
beyond  it  is  Farm  Bay,  at  the  head  of  which  is  Baxter  Harbour, 
Beyond  Tree  Point  is  Lawes  Bay,  followed  by  Fyfe  Bay,  just  inside  the 
Boux  Islands,  where  wo  came  near  leaving  ourselves  for  good. 

From  this  wo  went  west  to  Meikle  Bay,  where  I  landed,  and  crossed 
with  an  interesting  crowd  to  a  great  lagoon,  called  Poroai  ('*  piggish 
water'*),  and  then  to  Ellengowau  Bay,  Port  Dudtield,  Argyle  Bay^ 
through  what  we  wished  named  Port  Scratchley,  and  in  to  Mullens 
Harbour.  We  then  tried  to  navigate  Poroai,  but  found  it  piggish 
indeed^  a  very  shallow  lagoon,  with  a  strong  current  running  out*  After 
explorations  showed  that  this  current  was  caused  by  two  largo  streams 
running  in  to  the  lagoon  :  the  **  Herena  "  and  the  Jones  ;  one  from  the 
east,  the  other  from  the  west.  At  Dufaure  Island,  on  travelling  round 
it,  I  was  greatly  interested  in  the  view  tlie  natives  took  of  me  after 
exchanging  names  with  the  pleasant  littlo  chief  Meandi* 

Wo  found  Orangerie  Bay  a  sickly  hole,  and  so  kept  on  still  west, 
visiting  those  splendid  harbours.  Port  Milport  and  Port  Glasgow,  dis- 
covered by  Ooldie,  and  then  we  anchored  in  Mayri  Bay.  The  following 
morning  we  visited  Mailinkolo  or  Toulon  Island, 

Spending  a  few  days  in  Amazon  Bay  we  kept  westward,  and  dia- 
oovered  Baxter  Bay,  and  passing  the  bay  of  clouds  and  rain.  Cloudy 
Bay,  discovered  Sandbank  Bay,  Domara,  and  the  river,  and  then  on  by 
a  splendid  passage  inside  of  the  reef  to  "  Cheshunt  Bay,"  just  beyond 
Capo  Eodney,  and  went  up  what  we  called  "  Reynolds  Eiver."     Tho 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH.£AST£RN  NEW  GUINEA.  78 

following  day  we  went  in  and  ont  amongst  the  nnmerons  islands  called 
"The  Brethren,"  and  on  to  McFarlane  Harbour,  where  I  saw  the  mouth 
of  what  has  since  proved  a  good  large  stream,  ascended  by  the  late 
Mr.  Beswick,  and  named  by  him  the  "  Clara."  Here  begins  the  great 
Aroma  district,  which  I  afterwards  travelled  though  with  some  danger. 
Behind  this  are  the  districts  of  Animarupu  and  Quaipo.  In  the  former 
we  found  the  people  suffering  from  famine ;  they  were  afraid  to  descend 
to  the  plains  because  of  the  Aroma  tribe,  and  on  the  hills  a  long  drought 
had  killed  off  their  food.  They  had  much  the  appearance  of  Dahuni 
natives,  and  were  different  from  those  of  the  Aroma  district. 

The  Quaipo  natives  are  of  the  Hood  Bay  tribe,  that  is  Eerepunu, 
Kalo,  Eamali,  Babaga,  and  Hula,  and  I  think  Palauai  and  Sara  belong 
to  them  also.  Saroa  is  a  very  fine  district  behind  Bound  Head,  with  a 
large  population. 

Along  the  coast  ridges  of  Mount  Astrolabe  are  several  villages  of 
natives  belonging  to  the  inland  tribe  of  Koiari.  On  their  first  meeting 
with  us  they  were  somewhat  troubled,  but  after  a  little,  tobacco  smoke 
had  a  wonderful  effect  in  assuring  them  we  were  friends. 

To  the  west  of  Port  Moresby  I  ascended  the  Edith  river  to  beyond 
Doura.  Since  then  that  tribe  has  been  nearly  decimated,  and  the  few 
lemaining  seek  shelter  with  Mr.  Page,  an  excellent  gentleman,  who  has 
had  a  large  quantity  of  cedar  cut  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  who,  where- 
ever  he  has  been  on  New  Ouinea,  has  shown  himself  a  true  Mend  of  the 
natives.  Along  the  banks  of  the  Edith  there  is  very  fine  country  which 
I  believe  the  Protectorate  Oovemment  professes  to  have  secured.  I 
have  at  Doura  met  with  natives  from  the  western  spurs  of  Mount  Owen 
Stanley,  and  I  once  hoped  through  them  to  have  ascended  that  moun- 
tain before  I  came  to  England.  I  deeply  regret  that  your  Mr.  Forbes, 
for  lack  of  money,  has  not  been  able  to  accomplish  the  ascent  of  Mount 
Owen  Stanley,  and  I  do  hope  he  will  not  return  to  England  until  he 
has  had  the  mountain  under  his  feet.  He  is  the  only  real  explorer  we 
have  had.  He  has  already  done  splendid  service  by  his  carefully  prepared 
charts,  and  with  his  courageous  wife,  deserves  the  support  and  sympathy 
of  all  societies  interested  in  science.  I  feel  sure  our  great  Australian 
colonies  will  assist  him,  and  already  Victoria  has  taken  the  initiative. 

West  of  Doura  is  Eabadi,  the  district  that  supplies  Port  Moresby 
with  food  during  the  months  of  scarcity.  I  ascended  the  Aroa  river  to 
the  villages,  and,  after  visiting  them  all,  proceeded  inland  towards  the 
Yule  Bange,  crossing  various  streams,  which,  when  followed  down,  may 
be  found  to  be  the  affluents  of  the  Coombe's  river  that  falls  into  the  bay, 
just  beyond  Jokea.  We  passed  through  well  wooded  country,  and,  in 
some  parts,  large  sago  plantations.  The  women  wear  very  little  clothing, 
but  the  men  are  respectably  covered.  Like  all  inland  natives,  we  found 
them  very  fond  of  salt.  They  were  greatly  delighted  when,  on  my 
return  to  the  coast,  I  left  with  them  about  10  lbs.    They  are  light- 


74 


EXPLORATIONS  IK  SOUTH-EASTEKK  NEW  GOINEA. 


coloured,  mncli  like  the  Mekeo  uativeB,  who  live  at  the  back  of  HaU 
Sound,  Between  Kabadi  and  Hall  Sound  is  Kaara^  a  difitiiot  of  nine 
villageSi  On  my  first  appearance  in  one  of  their  villages  they  were 
having  a  dance,  so  that  we  wore  in  their  midst  before  we  were  noticed, 
I  caused  great  constematioD,  and  the  largo  feather  head-dreaaea  wore 
thrown  aside,  and  speara  and  clubs  quickly  Bought*  We  laughed  at 
tliem,  and  just  walked  to  a  platform  and  sat  down.  We  were  soon 
friends,  and  well  acquainted  with  one  another  through  the  pipe. 

The  largo  district  of  Mekeo  Btretches  from  behind  Hall  Sound,  and 
away  towards  Mount  Yule.  The  Lolo  district  lies  around  Hall  Sound, 
Maiva  and  Kivori  lie  between  Hall  Sound  and  Cape  FosBession,  and 
from  that  cape  to  Orokolo  is  what  is  called  the  Elema  diBtrict.  Tbeso 
have  all  been  travelled  through  and  friendly  relations  begun  and  con- 
tinued for  some  years. 

My  first  real  inland  trip  was  from  Catamaran  Bay  to  Discovery  Bay, 
in  Milne  Bay,  when  I  was  accompanied  by  Mr.  Chester,  bo  well  known 
in  connection  with  the  Queensland  annexation  of  the  then  unannexed 
part  of  New  Guinea.  We  were  everywhere  well  received.  The  range 
of  mountains  from  the  head  of  Milne  Bay  to  China  Straits,  Cloudy 
Mountain,  and  on  to  Argyle  Bay,  have  no  connection  with  the  great 
Owen  Stjinley  Kange,  and  I  proposed  Cidling  tliis  whole  range  th© 
**  Lome  Range/* 

At  other  times  I  have  travelled  inland  from  Port  Moresby.  In 
starting  from  this  point  I  took  what  isj  I  suppose,  the  longest  tramp  yet 
mado  in  New  Guinea.  We  went  in  by  Munikahiia  to  Eikiri  and  Kupere^ 
and  then  turning  east  we  travelled  to  Sogeri,  thi'ough  Moroka  and 
Favere,  and  on  to  the  McGillivray  range,  following  the  Kemp-Welch 
river,  and  cam©  out  at  Kalo,  in  Hood  Bay,  Once  an  attempt  was  made 
to  take  us,  but  it  failed. 

The  country  was  very  rough,  and  the  travelling  difficult,  more  so 
from  having  our  own  swags  to  c&rry.  Frequently,  when  travelling  in- 
land in  new  country,  we  have  each  had  to  carry  our  loads,  and  often  from 
Bunris©  to  sunset.  Natives  refused  to  assist  us,  saying  they  were  afraid 
to  go  to  other  places.  The  real  motive  for  such  refysal  usually  is  the 
desire  to  prevent  the  traveller  going  on  to  others,  who  might  thus  share 
in  the  advantages  of  his  barter  goods.  There  is  also  the  childish 
pleasure  of  being  able  to  tell  others  they  had  seen  a  white  man  who 
is  their  friend  and  that  he  had  given  thorn  prestints. 

I  have  several  times  been  inland  since,  and  my  last  trip  was  with 
Mr.  Forbes,  just  before  leaving  New  Guinea  last  May.  We  hoped  to 
get  natives  to  assist  us  to  make  a  dash  for  Mount  Owen  Stanley,  All 
was  arranged,  but  when  the  mormog  of  the  start  broke,  lo  I  our  native 
friends  had  vanished;  they  started  during  the  night  for  their  owti 
villages,  and  we  bad  to  return.  Forbes  had  then  to  break  up  his  camp 
and  return  to  the  coast. 


4 


4 
4 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH-EASTERN  NEW  GUINEA,  76 

I  have  frequently  revisited  many  of  the  plaoes  whose  names  I  have 
mentioned,  and  at  not  a  few  there  are  mission  stations.  Travelling 
slowly  from  tribe  to  tribe,  and  making  friends  ahead,  I  believe  to  be  the 
best  and  safest  plan  for  exploring  New  Guinea.  The  country  will  be 
better  known,  and  the  natives  become  real  friends.  After  the  first 
meeting  with  natives  it  does  not  do  to  be  over  familiar,  as  it  is  true  in 
New  Guinea  as  well  as  elsewhere  that  "  familiarity  breeds  contempt." 
Kindness  with  firmness,  and  a  good  pinch  of  common  sense  will  always 
help  a  man  along  and  open  up  his  way  before  him. 

I  was  long  anxious  to  take  a  trip  to  the  west  in  one  of  the  trading 
canoes  from  Port  Moresby.  Yearly  the  lakatois,  as  they  are  called, 
leave  port  in.  September  or  October,  and  go  as  far  west  as  Elema,  and 
]S^amau,  the  district  lying  around  Cape  Blackwood  and  Bald  Head. 
They  remain  there  until  after  the  north-west  monsoon  sets  well  in,  when 
they  return  with  their  cargoes  of  sago. 

At  last  an  opportunity  offered,  and  I  took  a  passage  in  the  Kevaubaday 
a  lakatoi,  made  of  three  very  large  dug-out  canoes.  These  are  strongly 
lashed  together,  bulwarks  ai*e  built  on,  and  at  each  end  is  a  covered 
place  for  the  captains  and  mates  to  sleep.  In  the  centre  was  a  raised 
place  like  a  crate,  and  placing  a  plank  on  the  top  covered  with  a  mat,  I 
made  that  my  berth.  The  last  few  days  before  sailing  were  devoted  by 
the  owners  of  the  lakatois  to  sailing  about  the  harbour  and  racing  with 
one  another.  There  wera  altogether  six  lakatois  to  leave  port  that 
season.  I  selected  the  Kevauhada,  because  it  was  commanded  by  two 
men  I  felt  greatly  interested  in ;  Yaaburi,  the  great  story-teller,  and 
Aruako,  the  once  robber  chief  of  the  Motu  tribe. 

Two  days  before  the  fleet  sailed,  the  place  was  all  bustle,  and  men, 
women,  and  children  were  all  alive,  getting  the  pottery  packed  on  board, 
and  selecting  from  the  accumulated  stores  of  barter  several  articles  most 
valuable  for  trading  in  the  Elema  district.  When  the  morning  had  come 
the  lakatois  all  start  across  the  bay.  Tears  flow  freely,  and  the  wailing 
is  loud  and  long,  but  becomes  worse  when  the  small  canoes,  mostly- 
occupied  by  wives  and  sweethearts,  leave  at  Kohu,  about  two  miles  from 
port.  Anchors — large,  heavy  stones — are  taken  on  board,  fiire wells  are 
looked  and  said,  and  we  are  away  for  the  west.  A  few  men  who  havo 
played  the  part  of  pilots,  leap  into  the  sea  at  Idler's  Bay  and  swim 
ashore,  and  so  with  a  good  fair  breeze  we  soon  come  into  Caution 
Bay.  We  had  two  large  crab-toe  shaped  sails,  and  after  seeing  these 
all  right,  tears  were  dried  and  hehanas,  their  sea  songs,  were  begun  with 
the  beating  of  gongs.  Eemarking  that  we  seemed  to  be  going  very 
slowly,  I  was  answered,  "  Bemember  we  have  just  left,  and  all  the  friends 
are  still  holding  on  to  us,  wait  until  to-morrow  and  you  will  see."  At 
midnight  we  anchored  between  Cape  Suckling  and  Hall  Sound,  and  in 
the  early  morning  all  were  busy  getting  firewood  and  water  on  board. 
Little  cooking  had  been  done  up  till  now.     The  captains  had  their  food 


76 


EXPLORATIOXS  IN  SODTH-EASTERX  NEW  GUINEA. 


i 


oooked  in  their  own  pots  and  on  fires  close  to  my  quarters.  Two  men 
were  speciallj^  told  off  to  attend  on  tliem»  "VVlien  off  particular  parta  of  the- 
coast  only  certain  kinds  of  food  can  be  eaten,  and  not  until  we  passed  Yule 
Island  were  yams  produced.  Crossing  the  €d  trance  to  Hall  Sound  several 
bunches  of  bananas  were  placed  at  each  mast  as  an  offering  to  the  spirits 
who  might  hinder  progress;  and  standing  forward  was  our  robber  chief, 
shaking  a  bunch  of  cassowary  feathers,  and  appealing  for  a  good  run< 
Tho  tide  runs  with  considorablo  streugth  into  Hail  Sonnd^  hence  th& 
difficulty  of  keeping  well  out,  and  crossing  safely.  When  we  approached 
the  Yule  Island  side,  the  chief  went  aft  with  his  feathers,  and  went 
through  the  siime  performance.  Safely  across  the  Soundj  the  siDgingt 
which  had  been  stoppedj  began  again,  and  a  number  set  to  preparing' 
food,  taking  the  bananas  from  the  masts,  and  getting  them  ready  for 
<XK)king. 

During  the  voyage,  nothing  was  allowed  to  be  thrown  overboard. 
Fires  were  soon  blazing  on  the  platform  running  round  the  lakatoi,  jiist 
outside  the  bulwarks,  and  general  happine^^s  prevailed.  On  the  evening- 
of  the  fifth  day,  we  were  off  the  mouth  of  the  Annie  river,  and  just  after 
sunset,  crossed  the  bar  in  a  terrific  sea.  When  getting  inside  the- 
breakers,  we  were  boarded  by  a  noisy  crowd  of  natives,  who  threatened 
to  sink  ns.  In  the  dark  the  confusion  was  terrible,  and  it  was  not 
remarkably  pleasant  to  ha%*e  big  dark  savages  throwing  their  arms 
round  us  to  embrace.  When  it  was  reported  I  was  on  board,  there  was  _ 
a  terrific  shout,  and  every  one  must  come  and  make  friends.  I  had  with  fl 
me  a  native  lad  from  China  Straits,  and  he  too  became  an  object  of  in- 
terest. On  getting  up  to  the  village  of  Tailala,  I  landed  and  made 
friends  with  a  chief,  who  gladly  gave  me  accommodation  in  his  diibu  or 
temple.  Many  came  to  visit  me  from  all  parts  during  the  few  days  I 
stayed*  I  was  very  anxious  to  visit  Namau,  the  cannibal  district  around 
Bald  Head,  but  could  not  move  on  until  I  had  seen  the  two  Orokolo 
chiefs,  as  I  wanted  thera  to  assist  me.  I  found  Orokolo  and  Namau 
were  at  enmity  with  ono  another,  and  the  Orokolo  chiefs  could  only 
accompany  me  part  of  the  way- 

When  the  two  chiefs  came  in  I  gave  them  presents,  which  mj  ho«t 
thought  was  wrong,  and  he  became  terribly  vexed  and  expressed  him- 
self in  strong  language,  saying,  no  one  had  any  business  to  come  there 
and  get  presents  from  his  white  man,  I  too  became  vexed  and  ex- 
pressed myself  in  strong  terms,  saying,  I  must  see  my  friends,  and  that 
all  must  come  and  see  me,  and  no  one  must  interfere ;  that  I  cx^uld  do 
what  I  liked  with  my  own,  and  that  seeing  my  host  was  angiy  with  my 
fritnds  I  should  return  to  the  lakatoi  and  remain  on  hoard  until  I  left 
for  tbe  west,  I  went  out  on  to  the  platform  and  called  two  of  the  crew, 
who  came,  when  I  told  them  in  a  loud  voice  to  pick  up  my  tilings  and 
take  them  on  boiird.  Several  had  armed,  and  to  a  stranger  to  savages* 
affairs  would  have  looked  serious.     When  the  lads  were  picking  up  my 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH-EASTERN  NEW  GUINEA.  77 

iion  box  the  old  chief  came,  threw  his  arms  round  me,  and  tears  rolling 
down  his  cheeks,  begged  me  to  stay,  that  he  was  sorry,  was  my  friend, 
and  I  conld  always  have  my  friends  to  see  me.  I  gave  him  a  small 
present,  and  he  at  once  started,  and  got  me  some  cooked  sago.  Many 
times  in  my  travels  I  have  had  to  take  the  same  decided  action. 

Arrangements  were  made  with  some  natives  who  would  all  go  as  far 
as  Orokolo,  but  only  two  would  risk  going  further.  Aruako,  the  robber 
chief,  was  to  be  my  interpreter,  and  another  Motuan,  Aruadaera,  to  go 
as  my  friend.  The  night  before,  in  the  dark,  Johnnie  and  I  got  some 
food  and  barter  out  so  as  to  be  ready  for  an  early  start  in  the  morning. 
I  left  the  greater  part  of  my  things  in  charge  of  the  old  chief,  who 
proved  faithful,  for  on  our  return  everything  was  as  we  had  left  it. 

Johnnie  had  an  old  musket  with  him,  of  which  he  was  proud,  and 
for  which  I  was  thankful,  as  several  times  he  supplied  our  larder 
with  fresh  meat.  We  travelled  along  the  beach  to  Orokolo,  and 
when  some  distance  from  the  first  village  we  saw  a  crowd  of  natives 
approaching,  and  at  their  head  my  friend  Apohe  the  chief.  The 
welcome  was  great,  and  we  wore  led  up  to  a  coco-nut  plantation, 
where  we  were  regaled  with  young  coco-nuts  that  all  enjoyed.  After 
resting  some  time  we  continued  our  journey  to  Apohe's  dubu,  where  we 
had  again  to  rest,  and  had  a  supply  of  cooked  sago  and  coco-nuts  brought 
and  laid  before  us.  In  the  afternoon  Apohe  led  us  on  to  Mama,  the 
other  chiefs  dubu.  The  old  fellow,  dressed  with  a  small  coloured 
bag  I  had  given  him  on  his  head,  and  standing  on  the  front  platform  of 
his  dubu,  called  on  us  to  come  and  take  possession,  and  on  ascending 
Apohe  handed  us  over  to  him. 

The  next  morning,  after  breakfast  we  started,  and  were  accompanied 
as  far  as  the  Alele,  the  mouth  of  a  large  river  now  seen  for  the  first 
time.  Seven  years  ago  I  sailed  along  the  coast  and  saw  the  openings 
marked  on  the  chart,  and  named  them  with  the  note  that  they  were 
reported  to  be  the  mouths  of  a  very  large  river. 

Our  Orokolo  friends  returned,  and  natives  from  Maipua,  one  of  the 
numerous  large  villages  around  Bald  Head,  to  whom  I  had  sent  word 
a  day  or  two  ahead,  came  across  in  canoes  and  took  us  over.  The 
canoes  were  different  from  all  I  have  seen  anywhere  else ;  a  large  log- 
of  wood  dug  out,  open  at  both  ends,  so  that  in  a  sea  the  water  could 
wash  right  through,  carved,  and  no  outrigger.  At  first,  being  without 
an  outrigger,  and  twenty-three  restless  excited  natives  on  board,  some 
standing,  some  sitting  on  the  gunwales,  and  a  few  on  small  pieces  of 
wood  at  the  bottom,  I  felt  dubious  of  our  not  being  upset,  but  pulling 
well  up  the  stream,  because  of  the  strong  current,  it  being  ebb  tide,  we 
safely  crossed  on  to  the  other  side.  Beyond  several  small  islands  we 
saw  the  main  stream,  which  by-and-by  we  were  to  cross.  On  the 
Ufamau  side  we  were  joined  by  a  number  of  other  canoes,  and  then 
proceeded  along  various  winding  creeks,  which  form  islands,  along  the 


rs 


EXPLORATIOXS  K  SOUTH-EASTERN  NEW  GUINJiA. 


edges  of  which  grows  the  nipa  palm  in  graat  abuudauce.  In  districts 
where  the  sago  does  not  grow,  and  whore  the  nipa  can  "be  had,  the 
leaves  are  used  for  thatching*  Passing  through  a  large  creek,  wo  camo 
to  a  wide  opening  into  what  proved  to  be  a  large  river,  and  which 
1  named  in  honour  of  a  friend  the  "  Wickbam.'*  We  paddled  up  Bomo 
diistance*  and  saw  where  the  Aide  branches  oi!*,  and  I  feci  very  hopefnl 
that  thiB  discovery  will  he  of  use  to  us  in  future  tmvels*  I  had  not 
gone  prepared  to  a^scend  the  river  any  great  distance,  so  for  the  present 
contented  niyaelf  with  what  I  had  seen,  and  crossed  over,  descending 
on  the  other  side  to  a  creek,  along  which  wo  went. 

We  were  certainly  a  very  merry  company.  My  interpreter  was  in 
bis  glory  with  old  friends  and  an  abundant  supply  of  areca-nut.  My 
friend  was  einging  my  praiees,  and,  altogether,  I  was  certainly  a 
wonderful  being  to  these  savago  cannibals.  A  heartier,  jollier  lot  of 
fellows  I  never  want  to  bo  amongst.  They  would  paddle  a  little,  then 
they  would  stop  to  inspect  my  feet,  having  persuaded  m©  to  take  my 
boots  off,  and  all  must  come  along  and  feel  them.  To  exhibit  my  chest, 
I  must  stand  up,  throw  my  shirt  aside,  all  must  feel,  and  then  they  all 
gave  one  terrific  shout.  \V'hen  wo  iii'st  went  to  the  East  End,  I  often 
exhibited  mj'  chest,  until  an  old  chief,  who  became  much  attached 
to  Mrs.  Chalmers,  brought  in  to  her  a  present  of  a  man*s  breast,  saying 
it  was  the  best  piece,  and  she  must  have  it.  After  that  I  was  a  little 
chary,  and  very  seldom  exhibited  my  chest.  Now,  although  amongst  a 
thorough-going  lot  of  cannibals,  I  felt  we  were  such  good  friends  that 
I  willingly  did  it. 

It  was  now  evident  we  were  noaring  a  village  from  the  number 
of  canoes  al»ut,  and  at  last  I  was  asked  to  stand  up  in  the 
canoe,  orders  given  to  all  others  to  sit  down,  and  all  other  canoes 
ordered  out  of  the  way.  My  new-made  friend,  the  chief,  Tpaivaitani, 
sat  near  me,  and  when  we  entered  the  village,  called  out  raj  name,  and 
intimated  I  was  his  friend.  Accustomed  though  I  had  been  for  years  to 
native  towns  and  villages,  this  was  certainly  quite  a  new  experience. 
Everywhere  people  standing  on  the  bank  of  the  creek,  all  noisy,  but  not 
a  weapon  to  be  seen.  Large  and  av ell-built  houses,  with  great  figures  in 
front  painted  on  native  cloth.  Streets  formed  by  laying  logs  of  trees 
along  the  swamp  in  front  of  the  houses ;  everywhere  small  creeks  in- 
tersecting the  town,  over  which  bridges  of  wotxl  were  built ;  and,  as  we 
paddled  along,  crowds  ran  on  to  meet  us  at  my  friend's  wharf. 

Never  before  had  I  seen  a  town  or  village  built  in  a  swamp  that  at  every 
high  tide  was  covei-ed.  Everybody  appeared  well,  hearty,  and  really 
happy,  I  landed  on  a  tolerably  well-built  wharf,  and  walked  along  a 
kind  of  bridge  to  a  very  large  platform  in  frout  of  Ipaivaitani's  dubu.  He 
himself  led  me  by  the  hand,  women  and  children  remaiuing  behind, 
men  and  youths  preceding  and  following,  until  we  came  to  the  dubu 
itself,  where  I  was  met  by  a  number  of  old  men,  who  waved  their 


i 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH-EASTERN  NEW  GUINEA.  79 

hands  and  bade  me  welcome.  Inside  and  on  each  side  of  the  long 
beaatifnl  aisle,  were  seated  yonng  men,  legs  crossed  and  arms  folded, 
not  speaking  a  word,  whilst  I  was  led  down  the  aisle  by  the 
chief,  followed  by  the  old  men,  mitil  we  came  to  near  the  end,  where 
we  stayed  a  few  minutes,  and  I  was  then  told  to  return,  on  doing 
which,  all  the  seated  ones  rose,  followed  me  out,  and  general  conversation 
went  on.  That  I  was  presented  to  the  gods  I  have  no  doubt,  and  that  I 
was  received  in  a  friendly  spirit  was  just  as  sure.  The  temple,  for  a  native 
building,  was  really  good.  In  front  was  the  large  platform,  and  imme- 
diately under  the  great  high  peak  in  front  was  a  large  verandah,  on 
which  the  men  sat,  sheltered  from  the  sun  and  rain.  Eising  from  the 
verandah  were  three  large  posts,  supporting  what  I  have  called  the 
peak,  about  80  feet  high.  Standing  just  inside  these  posts,  I  looked 
down  an  aisle  nearly  200  feet  in  length.  All  down  either  side  was  hang 
with  what  looked  like  splendid  silk  cui-tains,  and  these  were  made  from 
the  young  frond  of  the  sago  palm  split  up  when  quite  new.  The  flooring 
of  the  aisle,  two  feet  broad,  appeared  to  be  a  dark-stained  highly  polished 
wood,  and  carved  with  figures  of  men,  crocodiles,  and  cassowaries ;  this 
was  made  from  the  skin  of  the  sago  palm,  and  received  its  high  polish 
from  the  blood  of  victims  dragged  along  to  the  end  where  the  most 
sacred  place  was,  and  the  constant  tread  of  numerous  feet.  Inside,  the 
whole  plaoe  was  divided  into  compartments,  in  each  of  which  were  fires, 
where  the  owners  spent  much  time  in  eating  and  sleeping.  In  a  large 
open  space  near  to  the  sacred  place  were  pins  to  hang  skulls  on.  These 
during  our  visit  were  down,  being  cleaned  and  dressed ;  and,  having  a 
compartment  dose  by,  I  had  a  good  opportunity  of  seeing  them — in  fact, 
some  being  too  new,  I  found  a  difficulty  in  getting  through  my  light 
dinner  prepared  by  Johnnie.  The  skulls  were  all  carved^  and  done 
over  with  many  colours.  A  feast  would  soon  bo  on,  and  the  heaps  of 
skulls  would  disappear,  because  all  would  find  their  places  on  the 
skullery  pins.  That  head-gear  once  belonged  to  inland  natives,  who 
were  killed,  brought  into  the  dubu,  presented  to  the  gods,  then  cooked 
and  eaten. 

The  length  of  the  temple  was,  as  I  have  said  nearly  200  feet.  The 
floor  was  quite  level,  but  the  roof  tapered  from  the  high  peak  until  at 
the  farther  end  it  was  not  more  than  nine  feet  high.  At  that  end 
there  was  an  enclosure  which  no  natives  went  near,  and  I  was  anxious 
to  know  what  was  inside.  I  was  told  not  to  go  near,  as  it  was  very 
sacred,  and  death  would  be  the  fate  of  any  who  attempted  to  enter, 
except  those  whose  duty  it  was.  My  interpreter  and  my  friend  would  not 
come  near,  and  I  begged  the  chief  to  allow  me  to  enter.  He  kept  some 
distance  off,  and  begged  me  to  remain  outside.  My  interpreter,  seeing 
my  great  anxiety  to  enter,  told  them  I  was  a  queer  fellow,  went  every- 
where, saw  everything,  and  no  harm  came  to  me,  and  perhaps  it  would 
be  so  now.    I  was  allowed  on  that  to  enter,  but  no  one  would  accompany 


80 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH-EASTERN  NEW  GUINEA. 


me»  When  my  eyes  became  accustomed  to  tlie  darkness  I  saw  six  wicker- 
made  gods  with  the  mouth  of  a  frog,  enormously  large  and  open,  the  body 
of  a  dugong,  iBeastiring  about  nine  feet  in  length  and  seven  feet  high. 
Altogether  they  were  hideous  looking  things.  I  put  my  hand  into  the 
mouth  of  one,  and  was  somewhat  startled  when  out  flew  dozens  of 
email  bai^,  which  disturbed  those  in  the  other  images,  and  soon  the 
whole  place  was  full.  Outside  they  were  in  great  consternation  and 
begged  me  to  retreat,  as  I  would  certainly  die.  I  told  them  I  was  all 
right,  and  when  I  had  seen  a  little  more  I  should  return  to  them.  The 
following  morning  J  again  entered  with  on©  of  the  sorcerers  whose  duty 
it  was  to  attend  therein.  My  interpreter  was  just  outside,  coming 
nearer  than  the  day  before,  and  the  old  man  who  accompanied  mo  told 
me  they,  the  images,  were  very  sacred,  and  called  Kanibu.  Before 
going  to  fight  they  were  consulted,  and  also  in  sickness,  death,  or 
trouble.  Bo<lie8  of  the  slain,  pigs,  armsheUs,  and  other  Taluables  were 
presented  to  them.  Bodies  of  the  slain  were  dragged  down  the  long 
aisle,  and  placed  just  outside,  near  to  the  partition,  where  they  w^ere  left 
for  some  time,  then  dragged  to  the  outside  and  disposed  of.  The  idols 
were  greatly  feared,  and  no  one  even  spoke  disrespectfully  of  them. 

The  peak  or  cap  resting  on  the  long  posts  over  the  verandah  at  the 
entrance  was  thickly  studded  with  arrows.  When  the  tribe  have  made 
a  successful  raid  on  their  inland  enemies,  each  warrior  on  his  return  to 
the  dubu  shoots  an  arrow  into  the  cap  in  honour  of  Kaniba. 

There  were  several  other  dubns  in  the  place,  larger  and  smaller  than 
the  one  I  have  described. 

My  interpreter  and  friend  spent  the  evening  and  on  until  I  retired 
to  re«t  about  midnight,  telling  what  they  heard  at  Port  Moresby,  and 
what  they  conld  remember  of  the  teaching.  I  spread  my  blanket  on 
the  platform^  and  with  my  few  clothes  and  boots  for  a  pillow  I  was 
soon  asleep.  The  morning  sun  shining  straight  upon  me,  roused  me,  and 
I  was  astonished  to  hear  the  robber  chief  still  holding  forth  but  very 
hoarse.  All  night  through  he  was  telling  them  all  he  oonld  remember 
and  answering  questions.  Polygamy  is  very  prevalent,  and  many  of 
their  customs  are,  to  say  the  least,  very  peculiar. 

The  natives  live  chiefly  on  sago,  and  have  only  very  small  planta- 
tions. In  the  creek  were  rafts  of  sago  palms  ready  for  sago  preparation, 
and  along  the  banks  of  all  the  creeks  were  women  beating  and  squeezJDg 
the  pith. 

Wishing  to  visit  the  whole  district,  I  was  decidedly,  though  good- 
humouredly,  given  to  understand  I  must  not.  They  wanted  the  great 
honour  of  first  reporting  my  visit,  and  then,  when  I  returned  to  see 
them  again,  I  shonld  be  taken  everywhere  as  their  friend. 

My  return  was  the  occasion  of  a  kind  of  holiday.  Men,  women,  and 
children  accompanied  us  in  their  canoes.  Having  tried  tu  interest  them 
the  night  before  by  singing  a  song,  they  got  me  to  sing  again,  to  the 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH-EASTERN  NEW  GUIKEA.— DISCUSSION. 


81 


great  delight  and  amus©moDt  of  alL  It  is  au  aocompliahment  I  became 
4iware  of  possessing  only  after  my  arrival  in  New  Guinea.  Often  have 
I  seen  hundreds  of  tiavages  wild  %vith  delight  when  "  Auld  Lang  Syne** 
was  snng,  and  the  enthusiasm  passed  describable  bounds  when  the 
joining  of  hands  took  place,  and  then  all  would  seek  to  do  the  same, 
and  imitate  our  singing  with  shouting, 

I  parted  from  these  cannibal  children  of  nature,  hoping  to  return, 
ind  I  still  hopo  that  soon  after  my  arrival  in  New  Guinea  I  shall  be 
able  to  revisit  Namau,  and  from  there  do  something  more  to  open 
tip  that  great  and  interefiting  island* 

OapUin  W,  B,  Kendelbson,  iun.,  said  that  his  knowledge  of  New  Guinea  was  very 
afiglii  iodeed,  compared  with  that  poABessed  by  Mr.  Chalmers.  He  was  Gommaader 
of  the  Nelson  and  wai  ia  New  Guinea  for  about  ^vq  weeks  during  the  proclamation 
of  the  Protectorate;  he  had  brought  to  the  meeting  a  collection  of  weapons  at  the  re- 
questor the  Secretary.  The  only  two  occasions  ou  which  he  went  inland  were  when 
be  went  a  day*s  cruise  from  Port  Moresby,  when  ho  attempted  to  ascend  the  Cloudy 
MoQQtainB  from  Cape  South.  He  succeeded  in  getting  op  the  moimtaiu,  about  3000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  there  spent  the  night.  Oe  had  a  very  liard  climb 
A?w  steep  precipices,  aod  when  he  reached  that  elevation  he  could  see  nothing,  because 
ef  the  thick  bosh.  People  who  had  never  been  to  New  Guinea  had  not  the  faintest 
COQoeptioQ  of  the  state  in  which  the  natives  existed.  They  lived  in  what  were 
known  aa  village  communities,  not  having  yet  reached  the  tribal  state.  Along  the 
QQUt  he  believed  there  were  ahout  eight  distinct  languages,  and  these  included  a 
nry  large  number  of  dialects,  but  there  was  no  chief  who  had  supreme  power,  or,  so 
far  as  he  waa  aware,  any  power  beyond  two  or  three  villages.  For  the  purposes  of 
Cnde,  the  inhabitants  of  diflerent  districts  paid  visits  along  the  coasts,  hut  their 
fights  and  their  quarrels  were  between  themselves,  one  village  having  a  feud  with 
mother  speaking  the  same  language.  A  person  who  wanted  to  travel  there  could 
iu>t  ^t  portera  to  take  him  from  one  village  to  another^  because  the  natives  were 
tfrild  to  go  on  account  of  these  feuds.  Their  religion  was  a  form  of  ancestor  wor- 
skip;  they  appUed  to  the  witch,  or  sorcerer,  or  spiritist,  about  everything  that  went 
wmng.  They  had  not  tho  slightest  knowledge  of  any  natural  cause,  and  every  ill 
(hat  happened  to  them  was  put  down  as  being  caused  by  the  spirit  of  some  dec-eosed 
snoestor,  or  probably  by  the  spirit  of  some  one  in  a  neighhouring  village.  If  a  death 
happened,  naturally,  accidentally,  or  in  6ght,  it  was  a  case  of  blood  for  blood ;  and 
when  an  illness  t<Jok  place,  the  sorcerer  said,  *"  It  is  somebody,  or  tho  spirit  of  some- 
body, in  a  neighbouring  village  who  has  caused  this,"  and  then  the  friends  were  bound 
to  have  blood  for  blood.  It  did  not  matter  much  whether  it  was  a  man,  a  woman,  or 
a  child,  as  long  as  they  snooeeded  in  killing  some  one  belonging  to  the  village  with 
which  for  the  time  being  they  had  a  feud.  With  regard  to  the  weapons,  from 
i^nrt  Moresby  as  far  east  as  Elema,  they  used  bows  and  arrows,  samples  of  which 
be  exhihited  to  the  meeting*  but  to  the  westward  of  Port  Moresby  there  was  a  strong 
dividing  line  beyond  which  only  si>ears  and  clubs  were  used.  All  their  spears 
were  made  of  coco-nut  wood,  with  no  metal  at  all.  Like  all  savages,  if  they  could 
take  an  adversary  unawares  they  would  do  so,  and  if  they  could  surprise  a  vilhige 
or  a  canoe  they  would  put  the  occupants  to  death ;  but  if  they  actually  met  in 
fi^t,  they  threw  their  spears  at  one  another  from  a  distance,  challenging  one 
mother  to  personal  combat.  On  one  of  the  iCillcrton  Islands  two  neighbouring 
▼Ulages  had  had  a  6ght   the  day  previously  to  his  visit.    Three  men  had   been 

Uy  wounded  with  flesh  wounds  from   spoarsy  and  they  came   to   tl^ie  native 


82 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH-EASTERK  NEW  G[riNEA.-^DISCUSSION. 


teacher's  house  to  bo  dressed.  These  spears  inflict  very  serious  wounds,  tearing 
the  flesh.  A  stoce  club  simply  consisted  of  a  ronnd  wooden  handle  with  a  sharp 
areolar  piece  of  Btone  at  (he  end*  The  wooden  clubs  would  stun  a  man,  but 
the  stone  onea  would  cut  his  head  open.  The  natives  lived  in  a  stete  of  abject 
fear,  life  being  abeolutely  uncertato.  They  never  knew  when  a  mid  might  be 
made  tipon  them*  When  they  went  to  their  barter  or  t4>  cultivate  their  plantations, 
tliey  did  not  know  but  what  an  attack  might  be  maile  Ufion  them.  One  of  their 
weapons  was  a  man-catcher.  If  when  two  tribes  were  fighting  one  put  the  other  to 
flight,  the  pursuers  lassoed  their  enemies  with  tlie  man -catcher  over  the  head,  and  ft 
sharp  point  behind  piked  them  in  the  back  of  the  neck.  He  was  told  that  that  weapon 
was  also  ti&ed  in  the  Malay  Archipelago,  The  people  had  no  knowledge  of  metal, 
and  were  living  in  a  stone  age.  The  large  canoes  were  hollowed  out  with  stone 
aOzcs.  The  natives  were  beginning  to  know  the  value  of  iron  now,  hut  they  had 
no  means  of  working  iL  For  ornaments,  about  Port  Moresby  and  to  the 
westward,  they  wore  large  bones  through  their  noses,  from  six  to  nine  inches  long. 
A  more  valuable  form  was  a  piece  cut  out  from  a  large  shell  and  ground  down. 
Their  ears  hung  down  and  had  tremendous  gaahea  in  them  in  which  they  put 
rough  tortoise-shell  earrings.  Wives  were  purchased  with  din^^o  and  wallaby  teeth 
and  shell  necklaces,  these  latter  being  ground  down  with  great  labour,  and  armlets 
cut  out  from  shells.  Throughout  the  whole  length  of  the  coast  the  natives  chewed 
the  betel-nut,  using  with  it  lime.  Every  native  carried  with  him  a  gourd  with  lime 
made  from  burnt  sheila,  and  when  they  were  chewing  the  betel-nut  they  put  their 
wooden  knives  into  the  gourd  and  then  sucked  them.  They  grew  tobacco  of  their 
own,  though  they  much  preferred  European  tobacco ;  their  manner  of  smoking  was 
very  peculiar,  they  sat  down  in  a  circle,  a  small  cigarette  was  wrapped  up  in  a  leaf 
and  put  in  what  might  be  called  their  pipe— a  piece  of  bamboo  open  at  one  end  ;  on© 
man  then  applied  hia  mouth  to  the  end  and  drew  as  hard  as  be  could  till  he  had 
filled  the  tube  with  smoke  ;  then  he  removed  the  cigarette  and  handed  the  pipe  to 
the  senior  man  present,  who,  putting  his  mouth  to  the  small  hole,  drew  out  as  much 
smoke  as  be  could  at  one  inspiration,  the  process  being  repeated  for  No.  2  and  so  on. 
They  made  armlets  and  necklaces  from  different  kinds  of  teeth.  Their  shields  were 
of  primitive  form,  made  of  wood  ornamented  with  matting  and  feathers.  He  greatly 
regretted  that  New  Guinea  and  the  Western  Pacific  had  not  been  studied  by  some 
student  of  primitive  culture,  for  yery  soon  the  present  customs  of  the  people  would 
disappear.  He  believed  an  immense  amount  of  information  might  be  obtained  by 
those  who  were  capable  of  tracing  out  primitive  customs.  To  the  west  of  Fort 
Moresby  the  canoes  were  hollowed  out  from  big  trees.  A  large  mat  sail  was  used, 
and  they  could  only  sail  with  wind  free,  but  further  to  the  east  the  form  of  the 
canoe  was  different,  the  sides  were  built  up  of  boards,  which  were  fjecured  to  one 
another  with  fibre,  the  holes  made  to  pass  the  laehing  through  being  caulked 
with  gum  from  a  tree  to  prevent  leakage.  These  canoes  sailed  very  well  on  a  wind, 
but  the  natives  were  not  what  might  he  called  skilful  sailors^  even  in  the  arrange- 
ment of  thefr  own  canoes.  The  houses  were  everywhere  built  on  piles  from  six  to 
eight  feet  out  of  the  ground,  in  some  places  very  substantially.  In  Port  Moresby  and 
district^  which  was  the  centre  of  the  Protectorate,  the  houses  were  built  in  the  sea 
and  in  lagoons,  and  were  esactlj'  similar  to  the  lake  dwellings  of  prehistoric  times. 
For  eight  months  of  the  year  the  south-east  trad©  wind  blew,  and  of  course  the 
mountains  on  the  south-eastern  peninsula  condensed  the  vapour  winch  it  brought, 
so  that  part  of  the  country  was  exceedingly  wet,  while  the  western  part  was  dry. 
The  iseason  changed  in  October  or  No¥ember,  and  from  the  beginning  of  the  year  the 
north-west  monsoon  blew  in  an  opposite  direction  until  April ;  this  was  the  wet 
season  in  the  west.    On  the  whole,  the  eastern  end  of  New  Guinea  was  exceedingly 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH-EASTERN  NEW  GUINEA.— DISCUSSION. 


83 


» 


wtl  Many  people  imagiDed  New  Guinea  was  a  place  adapted  for  ooloDtsatioii,  but 
tlKsewho  thought  so  forgot  the  conditions.  The  climate  was  unhealtby,  the  popu- 
litioD  9CAnty>  the  amount  of  knd  used  for  cnltitation  exceedingly  small,  anti 
IIk  satires  were  in  a  state  unfitted  for  labour.  They  coutd  not  be  depended  ui)nn 
fcr  labotir,  and  in  a  country  situated  between  the  Equator  and  ICP  south  it  was 
impossible  for  Europeans  to  undertake  outdoor  labour ;  thert!rore  colonisation  meant 
the  introduction  of  cooUes  or  of  some  race  that  could  labour  in  the  tropics,  which 
wrold  inevitably  lead  to  the  extermination  of  the  natives.  It  should  also  be  born© 
in  misd  that  the  amount  of  tropical  products  required  for  the  civilised  countries 
of  the  world  was  very  gmalT,  the  necessities  of  life  came  from  temperate  regions, 
TC^  little  besides  spices  and  coffee  came  from  cltmeu  such  as  New  Gninea.  The 
D*tiTes  of  New  Guinea  no  more  understood  what  contimioua  labour  meant  than 
bmr  to  fly;  they  were  simply  accustomed  to  live  from  day  to  day,  to  getting 
jtifit  tbe  amonnt  of  food  they  wanted,  building  their  houses  and  making  tbeir 
weapoDB  and  ornaments;  generations  must  pass  ^^efore  they  would  have  the  slightest 
biowledge  of  the  relations  between  masters  and  servants  as  understood  in  civilised 
OMtntrie!S.  To  soddenly  change  their  condition  from  the  primitive  state  in  which 
ifceyst  prtssent  exist  would  mean  exterminrition  for  them.  The  London  Miasiooarj^ 
Socjfty,  through  Mr.  Lawes  and  Mr,  Chalmers,  have  rendered  New  Guintsa  accessible 
to  EoTOpemna.  Their  mode  of  operations  is  as  follows  i — they  put  Polynesian 
tucben,  who  are  superior  to  the  Papuans  by  several  degrees,  into  selected  stations 
tloDg  the  ooMt ;  being  bom  Christians^  and  being  able  to  read  and  write,  they  very 
•OCQ  leafn  the  languages  of  the  natives  amongst  whom  they  dwell.  These  native 
taehtiB  were  left  alone,  a  small  cottage  hewing  bui!t  for  them,  and  as  they  were 
wpcrior  beings  they  soon  acquired  great  power  and  influence  among  the  natives,  who 
Wfflit  to  them  in  their  troubles,  and  whose  chiefs  looked  up  to  them.  In  his  opinion 
it  if  only  by  working  on  these  Imes  that  improvement  can  take  plBCe,  that  is,  by 
introducing  people  from  the  Western  Pacific,  who  were  akin  to  tlio&e  in  New 
Goinea,  who  sympathised  with  them  and  understood  their  feelings,  but  did  not 
oind  their  childishness,  and  could  gra<lually  teach  them  to  cultivate  the  land  and  to 
iwk.  He  was  sure  that  any  other  form  of  colonisation  would  work  mischiefs  Of 
cottne  one  other  thing  should  be  done,  namely,  to  conFolidate  the  jx)wer  of  the  most 
Jiromising  chiefs  :  if  the  Wv^h.  CommiBsiotJcr  pelectcd  the  most  jxiwerful  chief  in 
My  district,,  and  was  able  to  consolidate  his  power,  it  must  tend  to  the  advantage  of 
tbe  natives  generally.  There  was  plenty  of  room  for  eiploration.  Nothing  was 
really  known  of  the  interior;  there  might  be  valuable  land  and  minemls,  when 
rewttTces  of  that  sort  were  found  it  would  be  tim«*  etiODgh  to  think  of  permitting  and 
controlling  colonisation  by  whites.  There  was  one  case  in  which  a  chieftaineas 
wielded  power,  but  she  was  the  only  woman  in  New  Guinea  known  to  do  so* 

Mr.  G.  R.  AsKWtTH  said  he  went  with  Sir  Peter  Scratchley  on  his  lato  expedl- 
to  New  Guinea,  and  he  could  speak  to  the  tnith  of  the  descriptions  given  by 
aimers  and  Captain  FIender?on,  Mr,  Chalmers  was  a  most  wonderful  man  in 
t  to  exploration  in  South-eastern  New  Guinea,  He  had  seen  far  more  there  than 
lay  other  white  man,  and  had  travelled  over  country  as  different  as  the  barren  land 
Tooud  Port  Moresby  is  fmm  the  tropical  region  of  Dufaure  Island,  He  had  mighty 
mfiaence  with  the  natives  whether  as  arbitrator,  or  friend,  or  rellgloiis  teacher^  or 
toroerer^  or  as  all  of  these,  and  it  might  be  that  he  had  taught  some  to  believe  in  one 
Supreme  Being  who«e  influence  was  for  good,  rather  than  in  the  host  of  devils  and 
ghosts  of  the  dead  by  whom  they  were  wont  to  believe  that  they  were  oppressed. 
In  New  Guinea,  as  in  other  savage  countries,  pioneers  had  a  very  difficult  task 
before  ihenu  One  difficulty  was  the  want  of  chiefs,  and  another  the  lack  of  carriage. 
'i\e  want  of  chiefs  made  it  almost  imix>ssible  for  a  traveller  to  go  far  from  a  friendly 


J      viddet! 

H^  to 


i 


EXPLORATIONS  m  SOUTH-EASTERN  NEW  GtTINEA.=.DlSCL'SSION. 


village,  because  no  chief  had  suflident  power  to  give  convoy  for  defence,  but 
Sir  Peter  Scratchley  hoped  that  in  time  be  might  be  able  to  raise  the  importance 
of  the  head-men.  In  Burnm  the  mtTno  difficulty  arose.  The  Buddhist  priesU  there, 
to  a  certain  extent,  took  llie  place  of  the  chiefs,  but  in  New  Guinea  the  sorcerers 
had  not  ao  much  power  as  the  priests  in  Bnrma«  One  way  of  spreading  British  in- 
fluence in  the  bland  would  be  to  establkh  Commissioners  at  various  points  along 
the  coast,  especially  if  these  CommiBsioners  should  have  aome  knowledge  of  medicine. 
Fever,  skin  diseases,  and  leprosy  opened  up  a  vast  field  there,  through  which  men 
with  some  medical  knowledge  oouM  gain  influence  amongst  the  natives.  With 
regard  to  the  carriage  of  goods,  of  course^  a  European  could  not  carry  ranch  in  such  j 
SL  tropic-al  climate,  and  in  addition  to  that,  the  means  of  barter  were  extremely 
reetricted.  Tobacco  was  of  the  greatest  imijortance.  At  Port  Moresby  the  mission 
house  really  lived  by  tobacco,  but  he  would  be  afraid  to  say  that  a  traveller  could 
cross  New  Guinea  by  means  of  tobaoco.  At  the  mission  house  no  service  could  be 
secured  without  imyment  in  tobacco,  which  was  really  the  current  coin  of  the 
country.  The  worst  of  it  was  that  the  demand  for  tobacco  was  small.  The 
natives  were  very  soon  satisfied,  and  then  they  would  not  do  any  more  work  till  their 
supply  ran  out.  Mr,  Forbes  found  at  his  camp  that  that  was  the  chief  difficulty,  and 
so  he  tried  to  use  rice,  a  great  quantity  of  which  he  had  brought  for  his  Malay  ser- 
vants. The  natives  liked  it  far  better  than  their yamsj  and  would  soon  do  anything 
for  rice. 

The  Rev.  Dr.  WrI'^ht  said  that  New  Guinea  was  first  sighted  by  d*Abreu,  but 
the  principal  exploration  there  had  taken  place  during  the  last  ten  years.  From 
what  he  had  just  heard,  he  believed  there  was  ho|>e  for  the  future.  Thanks  to  the 
London  Missionary  Society,  there  were  men  along  the  coast  who  now  bad  friendly 
rektions  with  the  people,  and  were  able  safely  to  pass  in  and  out  among  them. 
Four  of  the  Gospels  were  now  printed  in  the  language  of  Port  Moresby,  m  that 
those  interested  in  philology  and  comjmrative  gmmmar  could  study  the  language. 
There  was  a  large  mixture  of  Malay  as  well  as  Papuan  in  the  language,  and  there 
was  evidently  a  Unguiatic  relationship  between  all  the  islands  of  those  seas.  The 
language  of  the  little  island  of  Saliai  also  had  been  reduced  to  a  written  form,  and 
one  Gospel  had  been  printed  in  the  language  of  South  Cape*  From  the  languages,  it 
might  be  possible  to  find  what  the  people  themselves  were,  and  what  position  they 
occupied  in  the  history  of  the  world, 

Mr.  K.  N.  CusT  said  it  was  more  than  1CK>  years  ago  that  Captain  Cook  dis* 
covered  the  islands  of  the  South  Sea.  Within  a  few  years  afterwards  the  London 
Missionary  Society  was  formed,  and  that  society  had  led  to  most  marvellous  dis- 
coveries in  geography  and  philology.  They  started  at  Tahiti,  spread  on  towards  the 
Loyalty  Islafids  in  the  direction  of  New  Caledonia,  and  when  the  time  came  moved 
forward  to  New  Guinea,  Mr.  Chalmera  belonged  to  that  society.  From  island  to 
island  their  agents  went,  spreading  civilisation  and  carrying  the  greatest  blessings 
that  could  be  receiTed  by  the  human  race.  All  the  great  Continental  scholars  had 
received  with  astonishment  the  communications  which  came  from  the  South  Seas, 
Four  languages  had  already  been  discovered  by  Mr.  Lawes  and  Mr.  Chalmers,  and 
many  more  were  in  process  of  being  discovered.  They  and  other  men  of  the  same 
stamp  had  exposed  themselves  to  i>eril  and  danger,  carrying  their  lives  in  their 
hands,  and  had  contributed  to  Science  in  the  most  marvellous  way. 

Captain  Weaeton  (Hydrographer  to  the  Admiralty)  wished  to  give  bis  testi- 
mony to  the  great  utility  of  missionaries  not  only  in  New  Guinea  but  in  other  t>arts 
of  the  world.  This  had  been  brought  home  to  him  very  practically  in  Ids  position 
as  8Ui»ervising  the  surveying  ships  of  Her  Majesty's  Navy.  Some  forty  years  ago, 
when  Captain  Owen  Stanley  made  the  first  survey  of  South  New  Gumea  in  the 


h 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH-EASTERN  NEW  GUINEA.— DISCUSSION.  85 

BoHUsnake^  he  met  with  very  great  difiBculties  everywhere  on  account  of  the  hoe- 
tili^  of  the  natives.  There  were  now,  however,  two  surveying  vessels  there,  and 
their  laboors  had  been  very  much  lightened  by  the  missionaries.  He  was  glad  to 
have  this  opportunity  of  thanking  Mr.  Chalmers  for  the  great  assistance  he  had 
been  to  those  vessels.  He  had  just  received  a  letter  from  the  commander  of  one  of 
the  ships,  who  owed  his  life,  indirectly,  to  the  missionaries.  The  latter  said :  "  I  had 
a  narrow  escape  myself  last  month,  if  native  report  is  true.  I  had  taken  a  station 
near  the  coast-line  about  two  months  before,  and  on  passing  it  I  landed  for  a  few 
minntes  to  get  a  few  more  angles.  I  had  the  son  of  the  native  teacher  of  Dinner 
Island  with  me  as  interpreter,  and  took  one  blue-jacket,  and — I  suppose  for  the  only 
time  I  ever  landed  in  New  Guinea — I  omitted  to  take  our  pistols  from  the  boat.  It 
appears  that  the  natives,  supposing  I  should  revisit  the  spot  I  had  marked,  had 
decided  to  tomahawk  us,  and  had  laid  their  plans.  These  matters  are  invariably 
talked  over  first,  and  seldom  is  a  murder  committed  without  consultation.  They 
then  discovered  I  had  the  native  boy  with  me,  whose  father  has  considerable  influ- 
ence everywhere,  and  while  they  were  discussing  this  new  phase  we  had  landed  and 
cleared  off  again  before  they  had  done  their  talking.  This  information  came  to 
Mr.  Forbes,  and  he  warned  me." 

Dr.  DoTLB  Geakyille,  in  response  to  a  request  to  address  the  meeting,  said 
he  was  quite  unprepared  to  say  anything  at  present,  but  he  hoped  to  have  an 
opportunity  on  sL  future  occasion  of  laying  before  the  Society  an  account  of  his 
jonmeys  in  New  Guinea,  supplemented  by  some  sketches. 

Sir  Rawson  Rawson  said  that  of  course  climate  was  an  exceedingly  important 
matter  when  colonisation  had  to  be  considered.  About  three  years  ago  he  had 
occasion  to  make  inquiry  into  the  climate  of  New  Guinea,  and  he  found  that  the 
whole  of  the  south  coast  was  scarcely  habitable  by  Europeans,  that  there  was  only 
one  pcnnt,  Port  Moresby,  at  which  any  Europeans  were  living,  and  that  even  Port 
Moresby  itself  was  very  unhealthy.  He  wished  to  ask  Mr.  Chalmers  what  infor- 
mation he  could  give  with  regard  to  the  climate  on  the  coast,  and  as  to  any 
improvement  as  the  interior  was  penetrated?  Did  he  think  the  coast  would 
become  more  healthy  by  means  of  clearing  and  drainage?  Captain  Henderson 
considered  that  the  natives  were  so  indisposed  to  labour  that  nothing  could  be 
made  out  of  them,  but  Mr.  Chalmers  at  the  Colonial  Institute  said  they  were 
prepared  to  labour  for  the  purpose  of  barter,  and  that  they  carried  the  fruits  of 
their  labour  to  the  western  part  of  the  island  in  order  to  purchase  sago  and  other 
commodities.  If  this  were  so,  all  that  was  needed  was  that  they  should  be 
educated  to  work,  and  then  they  might  become  an  able  and  useful  class  of  labourers- 
in  their  own  interest. 

Mr.  Ejebbt  Nichols  said  that  he  visited  New  Guinea  some  ten  years  ago,  and 
had  always  been  of  opinion  that  there  were  two  races  there, — the  Papuan  extending 
along  the  western  coast,  the  southern  portion  of  the  Gulf  of  Papua,  and  the  Malayan 
in  the  eastern  portion  of  the  island,  while  further  still  the  Papuans  were  found  in 
the  New  Hebrides,  and  as  far  south  as  New  Caledonia.  He  wished  to  ask  Mr.  Chal- 
mers whether  he  had  been  able  to  trace  the  distribution  of  races  to  any  considerable 
extent 

Rev.  J.  Chalmubs  in  reply  said  that  the  climate  of  New  Guinea,  not  only  on  the 
coast,  but  inland,  was  very  unhealthy.  For  some  time  teachers  resided  close  to  the 
Owen  Stanley  range,  and  their  experience  was  that  it  was  just  as  unhealthy  as  the 
coast  A  few  years  ago  the  Melbourne  Argus  expedition  failed  because  all  the  party 
got  sick,  and  several  of  them  had  to  be  carried  back  to  the  coast  by  the  natives.  With 
reference  to  labour,  he  would  say  that  the  New  Guineans  would  not  work  as 
between  master  and  servant,  but  if  they  were  left  to  plant  and  raise  what  they  could 

No.  n.— Feb.  1887.]  h 


86 


THE  PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY  OF  JAPAN, 


barter  foT  themselves  they  would  do  it.  They  would  work  for  three  days  and  then 
aifc  atill  for  a  day  :  on  the  fifth  day  they  might  come  to  work  again  for  two  daya, 
hut  then  there  would  ho  another  day  set  apart  for  trade.  He  looked  upon  them  as 
a  hard-working  lot  of  natives,  doing  a  great  deal  more  plant ing  than  the  islanders  of 
the  South  Pacific ;  but  if  a  capitalist  went  there  and  roquir^  them  to  work  from 
dtx  to  BIX,  and  from  Monday  bo  Saturi5ay,  he  would  not  get  them  to  do  it^  He  did 
not  see  the  necessity  of  taking  the  laud  from  the  natives  when  they  could  be  en- 
couraged to  plant  that  which  would  be  of  use  to  Europeans.  Why  should  Java  and 
the  islands  in  the  eastern  seas  alone  supply  our  spice^  when  it  could  be  grown  by 
the  natives  of  New  Guinea?  He  believed  that  the  western  part  of  the  island 
down  to  Cape  Possession  was  inbabited  by  the  Papuans.  From  Cape  Posaeaaion  to 
Hall  Sound  there  was  a  meeting  of  races,  words  of  both  the  Malay  and  Papuan 
language  being  spoken.  The  Malays  were,  ho  believed,  fighting  their  way  from 
the  far  west  on  the  north  coast,  and  had  come  down  to  Huon  Gulf.  He  coosidGred 
that  the  Papuans  were  in  possession  of  the  country  from  Goodenough  Bay  to  Huon 
Gulf.  He  had  been  three  times  on  that  coaat^  and  had  paid  many  visits  to  the  shore, 
and  the  natives  there  were  pure  Papuans,  while  from  Goodenough  Bay  round  to  Cape 
Piissesaion  they  were  of  Malay  origin. 

Captain  H^kdersdn  said  he  considered  the  natives  were  in  such  a  state  that  they 
did  not  understand  labour  in  the  European  sense ;  tbey  worked  hard  for  themselves, 
but  it  was  spasmodic  work. 

The  Chairman  offered  to  Mr,  ChalmerB  the  thanks  of  the  Society  for  Ms  ex- 
tremely interesting  paper,  which  had  given  rise  to  so  inatmctive  a  diecussion.  He 
was  quite  sure  the  members  would  join  him  in  congratulating  themselves  on  haviDg 
had  present  with  them  a  gentleman  whose  reputation  waa  so  celebrated  among 
geographers  as  one  of  the  forerunners  of  civilisation  in  a  very  distant  part  of  the 
earth.  Thoy  must  all  hoi>e  that  he  would  return  to  the  scene  of  his  past  labours, 
and  that  the  Society  would  receive  the  advantage  of  those  labours,  and  that  the 
people  among  whom  he  worked  would  have  the  very  great  benefit  of  his  a8siBta.nce 
Jn  the  paths  of  civilisation* 


T}te  Physical  Geografky  of  Japan^  with  EemarJcs  on  the  Peuph, 

By  Dr.  Edmukd  Naomann. 

Hap,  p.  140. 

In  1875  I  entered  into  an  agreement  with  the  Japanese  Government, 
accepting  the  position  of  professor  of  geology  at  the  School  of  Mines  at 
Tokio.  On  my  arrival  in  Japan  I  fonnd  that  the  school  had  been  broken 
up,  and  in  consequence  a  new  engagement  was  signed,  entrusting  me 
with  a  professorship  of  geology,  mineralogy,  and  mining  at  the  TJni- 
versity  of  Tokio.  In  1878  and  1879  I  submitted  to  the  Japanese 
Government  a  memoir  on  the  adrisability  of  a  geological  survey  being 
undertaken,  with  special  reference  to  the  economical  requirements  of 
the  country*  My  proposals  were  accepted,  and  I  was  ©ntruated  with  the 
general  direction  and  control  of  the  survey,  a  yearly  sum  of  abont  10,OOOZ. 
heing  allotted  for  its  cost ;  and  after  the  necessary  preparations  had  been 
made,  field  work  was  commenced  in  September  1880*  At  the  outset  the 
staff  consisted  of  four  foreigners  and  twenty-two  Japanese  asBiBtants. 


WITH  REMARKS  ON  THE  PEOPLE.  87 

The  nnmber  of  foreigners  was  however  soon  reduced,  and  I  was 
obliged  to  take  the  entire  burden  of  conducting  the  topographical  and 
the  geological  suryeys  upon  myself.  Owing  also  to  deficiencies  in  the 
staff,  the  lack  of  funds,  and  the  generally  unsettled  state  of  the  country, 
the  surveys  could  not  be  carried  out  in  so  perfect  a  fashion  as  I 
<x>uld  have  wished.  It  may  be  mentioned  that  aU  the  assistants  and 
•draughtsmen  had  to  be  trained  to  their  work,  before  the  surveys  could  be 
carried  on  systematicaUy.  A  further  obtacle  of  some  magnitude  was 
encountered  when  the  question  of  publication  arose.  Many  experiments 
had  to  be  made  before  the  method  which  has  been  employed  for  the  pro- 
duction of  the  printed  maps  could  be  perfected.  That  most  of  the  diffi- 
culties mentioned  have  been  happily  overcome  is  a  circumstance,  in  a 
great  measure,  due  to  the  intelligence  and  zeal  of  my  Japanese  co- 
operators. 

The  Japanese  islands  are  no  other  than  the  most  elevated  portions  of 
an  enormous  chain  of  mountains,  rising  from  the  ocean  bed,  the  deepest 
that  has  ever  yet  been  fathomed.  An  idea  of  the  considerable  differences 
of  level  existing  in  this  region  may  be  formed  by  conceiving  that  two 
mountains  like  Fujinoyama,  whose  summit,  the  highest  in  the  Japanese 
archipelago,  attains  an  altitude  of  12,425  feet,  could  be  placed  one  upon 
the  other  in  the  deepest  part  of  the  Tuscarora  basin  without  projecting 
above  the  surface  of  the  sea.  In  fact,  the  summit  of  Figinoyama  rises 
no  less  than  39,853  feet  above  the  deepest  part  of  the  neighbouring 
ocean.  In  no  part  of  the  world  does  an  area  of  such  comparatively 
narrow  extent  as  that  comprising  the  Fujisan  and  the  Tuscarora  basin 
show  such  enormous  differences  of  level.  Considering  the  Japanese 
chain  as  one  continuous  mass,  the  lowest  parts  of  which  are  submerged, 
this  great  wave  of  the  earth's  surface  bears  the  same  relation  to  the 
Pacific  basin  as  the  Himalaya  mass  does  to  the  Indian  peninsula.  The 
dimensions  of  these  two  colossal  earth-waves  are  almost  equaL  The 
figures  given  might  lead  to  the  erroneous  supposition  that  a  very  steep 
slope  exists  on  the  Pacific  side.  On  the  contrary,  the  ocean-bed  on  that 
side  rises  very  gradually  to  the  coast-line,  making  an  angle  of  not  more 
than  about  3*^,  whilst  on  the  opposite  side'the  inclination  is  very  slight 
indeed.  The  general  character  of  the  Japanese  earth-wave  establishes 
its  close  relation  to  the  Asiatic  continent.  In  fact,  it  is  nothing  else 
than  the  advanced  frontier  of  Asia,  and  not  a  chain  of  volcanic  ejections 
accumulated  over  a  fissure  in  the  ocean-bed,  as  certain  famous  geographers 
of  past  periods  conjectured. 

Examining  the  chain  more  closely,  we  find  that  innumerable 
excavations  have  been  made  in  its  surface  by  erosion ;  that  it  shows  a 
peculiarly  furrowed  aspect ;  and  that  certain  extensive  depressions  and 
cuttings  are  in  accordance  with  the  laws  of  orographic  configuration. 
To  understand  its  formation  we  are  under  the  necessity  of  uncovering 
the  surface,  and  of  consulting  the  geological  structure  of  the  chain.     It 

11  2 


88 


THE  PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY  OF  JAfAN, 


woTild  have  be<in  impossible  for  any'slcillecl  topographer  to  have  arrivedT 
at  such  an  uixdorBtanding  of  the  orography  aa  to  ©atahlieh  the  natural 
divisions  of  the  mountain  maes  as  a  whole,  even  after  many  years*  more 
Biirvej'ing  than  I  have  devoted  to  the  subject,  without  Btndying  it» 
geology.  So  my  explanations  wonhl  be  quite  unintelligible  if  IJ 
neglected  to  point  out  the  fundamental  laws  of  geological  structure,  ^ 

According  to  recent  investigations,  the  formation  of  mountain  chains 
is  due  to  the  continnal  contraction  of  the  earth  through  secular  cooling. 
Strata  deposited  by  the  great  water-basins  in  a  horizontal  position  are- 
pushed  and  raised  into  folds.  In  connection  with  the  folding  action  due 
to  lateral  pressure,  the  strata  often  split  into  a  number  of  sections,  and 
through  the  fissures  igneous  niaases  rising  from  greater  depths  find  their 
way.  Observation  proves  the  Japnneee  chain  to  consist  of  a  long  series 
of  foldsj  and  these  folds  run  as  a  rule  in  the  same  direction  iis  the  island 
chain  itself  In  some  places,  however,  they  are  diverted  from  their  nor- 
mal course.  The  greatest  regidarity  of  structure  is  met  with  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  chain,  where  three  diflerently  shaped  and  differently 
constructed  zones,  indicated  by  Shikokn,  the  Inland  Sea,  and  Chugoku, 
can  be  diBtingiiished.  Here  the  folds  are  strictly  parallel  to  the  general 
direction  of  the  chain*  But  if  we  fidlow  them  in  an  eastward  direction,  wo 
find  that  they  all  curve  upwards,  and  this  the  more  intensely  the  nearer 
we  get  to  a  large  transversal  depression,  a  kind  of  cleft  or  fisHUre  in 
which  a  number  of  volcanoes  have  sprung  up.  Fujinoyama,  for  instance, 
is  situated  in  this  cross  fissxii*6.  On  the  other  side  of  the  cleft  the  folds 
describe  a  still  more  decidedly  abnormal  curvature.  They  imitate  the 
shape  of  a  hook,  with  its  inner  side  turned  towards  the  Japan  Sea, 
Northward  from  the  cleft  as  far  as  the  latitude  of  Sado  and  Bondai,  the 
folds  run  for  the  most  part  transversely  to  the  island  chain.  Undoubtedly 
the  disturbance  in  the  regular  folding  is  more  marked  in  Northern 
than  in  Southern  Japan.  Still  further  northward,  however,  they  resume 
a  normal  direction.  All  the  phenomena  of  geological  structure  hitherto 
observed  tend  to  show  that  a  pushing  or  thrusting  movement  acting 
from  the  side  of  tho  Sea  of  Japan  has  caused  the  folds  to  rise  and  to 
advance  in  the  direction  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  This  advance  could  not 
however,  take  place  regularly  everywhere.  The  horijBontal  forward 
movement  was  checked  at  the  point  where  at  present  the  chain  is  fonnd 
to  be  split  by  an  enormouB  fissure.  According  to  my  view,  this  great 
and  most  interesting  disturbance  was  caused  by  the  close  appro*ich  of 
another  largo  chain  of  mountains  stretching  from  the  Tokio  Bay  down 
to  the  Benin  Islands,  and  styled  the  Shichito  chain.  This  opinion  is 
principally  supported  by  the  fact  of  the  two  chains  being  connected  just 
where  the  disturbance  occurs. 

The  irregularity  just  deRcribed  is  not  tho  only  one  met  with.  It 
must  be  remarked  that  the  folds,  besides  Ixsing  disturbed  bv  the  great 
transversal  cleft,  are  not  continuous  throughout,  even  where  a  regular 


WITH  KEUARKS  ON  THE  PEOl'LE. 


89 


I 


N 


course  is  obeerved*  Tkbi  in  oa  account  of  the  oliain  baving  been  tora 
into  a  number  of  sections,  wkich  have  then  atlvauood  unequally.  The 
island  of  Yesso  is  furthest  advanced,  and  the  nurthern  portion  of  the 
main  island  more  so  than  the  section  lying  between  the  cleft  and  the 
latitude  of  Sendai.  I  have  indicated  thtt  approximate  lines  of  dislocation 
in  the  accompanying  map.  Another  dLslocatlon  of  this  kind,  though  of 
smaller  extent,  ia  shown  by  the  disconnection  between  the  crystal  schists 
of  the  Kii  peninsula  and  the  band  of  the  same  system  in  Mikawa. 

In  addition  to  the  foregoing  general  remarks  on  the  geological 
structure  of  the  Japane&e  ittlands,  attention  may  bo  called  to  the  exist- 
ence of  extensive  longitudinal  hssurc^  through  which  igneous  masses 
have  issued  during  past  ages.  Volcanoes  and  volcanic  action  play  a 
rery  humble  part  in  the  Idstory  of  this  development.  If  we  compare, 
as  has  been  dune  by  old  geographers,  the  Japanese  chain  and  the  other 
chains  girding  Eaatem  Asia  to  garlands  of  flowers,  then  the  volcanoes 
might  l>e  likened  to  small  pearls  tbi^caded  among  these  garlands*  In  the 
mountains  of  Japan  fossils  of  the  remotest  periods  are  met  with»  and  no 
doubt  can  prevail  but  that  those  homontal  movements  described  above 
commenced  at  a  very  early  date,  and  have  continued  with  varying  foroo 
down  to  our  own  day.  One  of  the  most  interesting  of  the  fosBil-yieldiug 
rockfi  is  that  which  I  have  oalled  **  Kadiolarian  slate,"  a  rock  filled  with 
^autifuUy  shaped  microscopicid  skeletons  of  animal  life  of  a  low  order. 
These  slates  are  of  great  geological  age  and  of  marked  interest,  in- 
asmuch ae  tlieir  composition  proves  them  to  be  of  a  formation  corre- 
Bponding  to  that  of  the  mud  from  the  deepest  part  of  the  ocean  bed. 
We  learn  from  these  slates  that  the  Japanese  chain,  or  a  large  pai't  of 
it,  was  submerged  deep  beneath  the  ocean  surface  during  some  portion 
of  the  PalsBOKoic  em.  The  Eadiolarian  slate  is  a  deep-sea  sediment, 
and  perhaps  the  oldest  sediment  of  this  kind  known. 

I  wish  to  draw  attention  to  the  magnetic  map  of  the  Japanese 
islands.  It  will  be  perceived  that  there  is  a  most  remarkable  corre- 
spondence between  the  lines  of  equal  declination  (the  Trogones)  and  the 
leading  lines  of  geological  structui-e  abuvc  described.  In  general  the 
magnetic  lines  exhibit  very  striking  and  quite  unexpected  irregularities, 
and  these  irregularities  are  found  to  be  in  most  intimate  connection 
with  the  abnormal  curvatures  of  the  folds.  The  serious  discussion 
which  followed  the  reading  of  a  paper  of  mine  before  the  Seismological 
fiociety  of  Japan  in  1882  showed  how  far  these  irregularities  were  un- 
expected. For  my  own  part,  I  was  convinced  from  the  very  beginning 
of  the  geological  survey,  at  a  time  when  the  magnetic  data  were  still 
scanty,  that  there  must  bo  a  connection  between  those  phenomena  which 
AT©  caused  by  the  magnetic  force  of  our  globe  and  the  internal  condition 
of  the  earth's  crust  or  of  the  earth  itself.  With  this  point  in  view  I 
started  the  magnetic  investigations.  In  a  comparatively  short  time  the 
general  magnetic  survey,  comprising  no  leas  than  two  hundred  complete 


90 


THE  PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY  OF  JAPAN, 


observatioDB  at  a  liie  numljer  of  stations,  was  aocompliBhed  Lj  Mr. 
Sekin^j,  one  of  my  former  topographical  assistants.  The  reaiilts  aro 
oxtremely  sat i.s factory*.  It  will  bo  observed  that  the  magnetic  lines  aro 
influenced  in  their  course  by  the  great  transveraal  cleft  just  in  tlie  8ame 
manner  as  the  folds.  Wo  might  even  say  that  the  deviations  of  tho 
linet^  of  equal  declination  and  the  fold  lines  coincide  to  a  certain  extent. 
Where  ono  of  the  great  lines  of  horizontal  dislocation,  separating  two 
unequally  advanced  eections  of  the  Japanese  Archipelago^  crosses  the 
chain,  the  trogones  describe  bends  and  sinuo^iities  of  a  moat  pecnltar 
character.  These  rosnlte  open  an  entirely  new  field  of  research,  and  I 
hope  that  they  may  be  an  inducement  to  a  continuation  of  similar 
investigations,  bo  that  some  light  may  be  thrown  npon  those  still  very 
obscure  pages  relating  to  the  causes  of  magnetism  and  to  the  internal 
condition  of  the  earth. 

Among  the  two  hundred  declination  values  obtained  by  Mr,  Sekino^ 
the  highest  was  obtained  for  a  plate  near  3ilorioka,  in  Northern  Japan, 
where  the  declination  amounted  to  over  7^,  which  is  considerably  more 
than  in  any  other  part  of  the  country.  This  proves  the  existence  of 
some  local  abnormity,  a  fact  stipported  by  resulta  of  another  kind  which 
I  will  mention.  At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  a  Japanese 
astronomer  named  Ino  Tadayoshi  undertook  by  order  of  the  Government 
a  survey  of  the  whole  country,  in  course  of  which  the  coast  and  a  few  of 
the  more  important  roads  were  laid  down  pretty  accurately.  This  work 
is  of  the  highest  historical  and  flciontific  iiitorc^t^  and  would  well  deserve 
to  bo  dealt  with  in  a  si)eoial  paper.  Ino  Tadayoshi  had  heard  and  read 
in  foreign  books  of  the  variation  of  the  comjias-^.  Nevertheless  he  denied 
its  existence.  He  even  went  so  far  as  to  attribute  the  declination  ob- 
served by  Europeans  to  an  error  in  the  oompaeses  used  by  them,  and  to 
maintain  that  the  fact  of  his  own  compass-needles  constantly  pointing 
due  north  was  owing  to  the  superiority  of  his  instruments^  which  he 
always  constructed  himself.  Now  we  know  that  the  variation  is  at 
present  increasing  in  Japan  about  4'  per  annum,  and  that  it  has  l^een 
increasing  for  a  considerablo  time  past.  This  furnishes  an  explanation 
of  Ino*B  obstinacy.  Because  the  zero  meridian,  the  meridian  of  no 
declination,  passed  through  Japan  in  his  day,  he  was  led  into  the  belief 
that  anything  like  variation  of  the  compass  did  not  exist,  and  that 
Europeans  were  seriously  mistaken  in  agsuming  such  a  phenomenon. 
Ino  neglected  the  declination,  which  really  existed  except  along  tha  fl 
line  of  the  zero  meridian,  and  as  ho  has  gi%'en  the  direction  of  a  great  ™ 
many  peaks  bylines  and  figures  in  his  map  we  are  enabled  to  determine 
the  change  of  variation  for  the  last  eighty-five  years.  X  have  made  an 
attempt  to  establish  the  syBtem  of  trogones  for  Ino's  time,  following  the 
method  indicated,  and  the  results  of  this  investigation  are  laid  down  in 
the  above-mentioned  paper.  The  most  interesting  result  is  that  I 
arrived  at  the  discovery  of  a  very  remarkable  magnetio  disturbance  > 


WITH  REliARES  ON  THE  PEOPLK  91 

which  mtust  have  existed  at  the  date  when  Ino  made  his  observations, 
near  a  volcanic  mountain  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Morioka,  in  the  same 
region  where  Mr.  Sekino  found  the  highest  declination  value  amongst  his 
two  hundred  observations.  Perhaps  this  discovery  of  a  great  magnetic 
irregularity  existing  not  less  than  eighty  years  back  may  be  worthy  of 
attention,  as  it  was  established  a  long  time  before  anything  could  be 
known  concerning  the  exceptionally  large  declination  of  the  present 
time. 

On  one  of  my  maps  I  have  laid  down  the  boundaries  of  the  area  over 
which  the  great  earthquake  of  1854  extended.  This  boundary  line 
again  closely  approximates  to  the  lines  of  geological  structure.  The 
curve  describes  two  great  waves  rising  from  a  common  base  that  lies 
in  Southern  Japan  and  strikes  with  the  folds  of  Southern  Jax)an.  From 
a  more  minute  inspection  of  this  earthquake  curve  it  can  be  seen  that 
the  oscillations  were  finally  arrested  by  the  great  transversal  deft.  It 
is  nearly  eight  years  ago  that  I  determined  the  course  of  this  line  at  a 
time  when  my  knowledge  of  the  geology  of  Japan  was  very  limited 
indeed,  and  when  I  had  not  the  slightest  idea  that  almost  every  detail 
of  the  curve  could  be  accounted  for  by  laws  of  internal  structure,  as 
established  by  later  investigations. 

The  study  of  geology  is  just  as  indispensable  to  the  orographer  as 
the  study  of  anatomy  is  to  the  sculptor.  No  clever  artist  would  think  of 
representing  the  beauties  of  the  human  form  as  those  of  a  hollow  figure. 
The  physical  features  of  Japan  present  a  fine  example  for  the  verifica- 
tion of  the  intimate  and  mutual  dependence  of  those  sciences  whose  object 
is  our  globe.  After  having  made  ourselves  acquainted  v.  ith  the  general 
laws  of  geological  structure  we  shall  be  better  enabled  to  understand 
the  language  of  the  external  features  of  that  part  of  the  surface  we  are 
at  present  dealing  with.  I  have  already  stated  that  the  Japanese  chain 
is  composed  of  three  bands  or  zones.  The  outer  zone  situated  on  the  side 
of  the  open  ocean  consists  of  mountain  land  presenting  the  appearance 
of  an  originally  flat  mass  modified  by  erosion.  The  upper  parts  of  the 
mountainB  are  flat  and  but  slightly  rounded,  the  numerous  and  sinuous 
valley  cuttings  steep-sided  and  narrow.  Very  distinctly  marked  appears 
the  inner  boundary  of  this  outer  zone,  corresponding  to  the  inner  border 
of  a  narrow  continuous  belt  of  crystalline  schists  and  indicated  by  very 
regularly  developed  "longitudinal"  valleys.  This  boundary  plainly 
shows  tiie  course  of  the  leading  lines  of  the  folds  already  spoken  of. 
The  greatest  height  attained  by  it  on  the  island  of  Shikoku  is  about 
7726  feet.  Near  the  great  transversal  cleft,  for  which  I  have  proposed 
the  name  "  Fossa  Magna,"  it  gradually  thins,  and  in  oonsequence  of 
being  strongly  compressed,  its  summits  in  this  region  reach  heights 
of  about  10,000  feet.  It  may  be  recommendable  to  adopt  the  name 
Akaishi  Sphenoid  for  this  colossal  triangular  mass  of  mountains.  To 
the  right  of  the  Fossa  Magna  lies  the  mountain  land  of  Quanto,  still 


M 


THE  PHYSICAL  GEOGEIAPHT  OF  JAPAN, 


furtier  north  the  Abiikuma  mountain-land,  and  again  lioyond  tliis  the 
Kitakami  mountain-land,  all  of  them  belonging  to  the  outer  zone* 
The  median  zoo©  is  a  depresaion  in  Southern  Japan  filled  by  the  Inland 
Sea.  In  Northern  Japan  we  meet  with  a  median  range  of  high  pealis 
of  abont  6000  feet,  set  with  many  volcanoes*  The  median  zono  is  the 
zon©  of  highest  volcanic  activity  as  far  as  Northern  Japan  and  Kiushiu 
are  concerned.  A  longitudinal  fissure  is  indicated  by  the  enormous 
masees  of  erupted  rock  accumulated  in  tlus  zone.  Concerning  the  inner 
zone,  its  most  characteristic  features  are  shown  in  the  occurrence  of 
isolated  volcanoes  rising  out  of  circular  basins  formed  by  sudden  de- 
pressions. Such  basins  are,  commencing  from  the  south  and  continuing 
northward,  the  Sanpei  basin,  the  Daisen  basin,  the  Gasaan  basin,  the 
Chokai  basin,  tbe  Moriyoshi  basin,  and  the  Twaki  basin.  The  median 
zone  of  Southern  Japan  passes  by  transition  into  the  inner  zone.  Cross- 
ing from  the  Inland  Sea  to  the  Sea  of  Japan  we  first  pass  through  hilly 
countiy  which  gradually  rises  until  the  broken  range  of  elevations 
running  along  the  coast  is  reached.  This  range,  though  fairly  high, 
appears  hut  low  in  comparison  with  tho  mountains  of  the  outer  zone. 
It  will  be  of  tlio  utmost  satisfaction  to  me  if  my  endeavours  to  explain 
by  tho  foregoing  brief  remarks  the  general  physical  conformation  of 
Japan  have  proved  suGSciently  clear  and  intelligible. 

My  travels  and  surveys  extended  over  the  whole  country,  with  tho 
exception  of  Yesso  and  the  smaller  islands.  The  total  length  of  the 
routes  travelled  over  and  shown  in  the  sketch-map  amounts  to  about 
COOO  miles,  of  which  3000  miles  were  actually  surveyed.  The  surveys 
were  plotted  on  the  spot,  a  plan  I  consider  to  offer  such  considerable 
advantages  that  I  recommend  it  to  any  traveller  who  establishes  his 
routes  by  constant  measurements.  Sume  field  sketches  I  have  made 
show  the  method  of  working,  and  will  possibly  prove  of  interest  to 
surveying  travellers.  One  of  tliese  sketches  shows  a  route  21  miles  in 
length  leading  right  across  the  mountains,  and  laid  down  in  one  day 
during  the  hottest  period  of  the  year.  I  am  convinced  that  this  is  about 
the  maximum  amoimt  of  this  kind  of  work  achiovable.  On  an  average, 
I  have  accomplished  about  I2i  miles  per  day.  From  1881  to  1885  my 
travels  and  survejs  wore  undertaken  with  the  object  of  establishing  in 
the  shortest  possible  time  the  general  laws  of  configuration  and  of 
structure  governing  the  mountains  of  Japan.  These  reconnaissance 
surveys,  in  which  I  was  assisted  by  a  few  topographers  and  geologists, 
have  only  just  been  accomplished,  and  their  results  are  laid  down  in  the 
eztenaive  series  of  maps  which  I  have  brought  homo. 

The  character  of  the  country  is  mountainous,  and  the  variety  of 
mountain  forms,  the  luxuriance  of  vegetation,  the  abundance  of  fiowers 
in  spring  and  the  beauties  of  foliage  in  autumn,  the  clearness  of  the 
atmosphercj  which  seems  to  bring  distant  objects  nearer  to  the  eye,  and 
the  numerous  streams  of  rushing  water  make  it  one  of  the  most  charming 


I 


WITH  REMARKS  ON  THE  PEOPLE.  93 

^ts  in  the  world.  The  island  mountain-chain  is  interspersed  with  a 
large  number  of  Tolcanic  cones,  many  of  which  have  been  the  scone  of 
destructive  eruptions  within  historical  times.  At  present  hardlj  any  of 
them  are  really  active,  and  an  eruption  is  an  exceptional  event.  Nine 
years  ago,  however,  I  witnessed  a  magnificent  eruption  on  the  island  of 
Oshima,  situated  at  the  entrance  to  the  Gulf  of  Tokio.  A  column  of  fire, 
caused  by  masses  of  molten  lava  which  were  thrown  into  the  air  to  a 
height  of  sometimes  1000  feet,  issued  from  a  small  cone  built  up  on  the 
bottom  of  an  enormous  circular  crater.  We  were  so  close  to  this  igneous 
fountain,  that  when  taking  our  lunch  at  the  edge  of  the  large  crater,  we 
felt  as  warm  as  if  sitting  near  a  good  fire.  On  the  return  journey  to 
Tokio,  our  little  steamer,  which,  as  a  rule,  only  made  the  trip  between 
Yokohama  and  Yokosuka,  and  was  certainly  not  built  to  face  the  open 
sea,  encountered  a  typhoon,  and  it  certainly  appeared  as  if  after  having 
escaped  the  fire  we  were  to  be  swallowed  up  by  the  waters.  The  storm 
had  at  the  same  time  been  raging  with  such  violence  at  Tokio,  that  our 
friends  there  were  astonished  at  our  unexpected  return. 

By  far  the  greater  number  of  the  loftiest  summits  are  volcanoes,  and 
very  fine  views  are  obtained  from  these.  I  cannot  imagine  any  subject 
worthier  of  the  brush  of  an  artist,  than  sunrise  as  seen  from  the  top  of 
Fujinoyama.  When  during  the  summer  months  night  flies  away  and 
morning  approaches,  crowds  of  pilgrims  in  white  dresses  and  large  flat 
hats  collect  under  the  waving  flags  of  the  huts  on  the  summit  and  wait 
upon  the  wild  and  rugged  lava  plains  for  the  first  rays  of  the  sun.  They 
are  all  strong  and  well  made  men,  whose  faces  tell  stories  of  severe  hard- 
ahip.  The  play  of  colour  in  the  sky  is  of  indescribable  loveliness,  whilst 
down  below,  the  mountains  seem  to  rise  slowly  from  one  vast  sea  of 
shadows.  Suddenly,  like  lightning,  the  sunlight  floods  the  highest  crags 
of  lava  on  the  summit  of  Fujinoyama,  the  stone  huts,  and  the  crowds  of 
humbly  praying  pilgrims. 

Still  more  fascinating  than  the  view  from  the  top  of  Fujinoyama  is 
that  from  Chokaisan,  a  volcano  on  the  north-western  coast  of  the  main 
island.  From  the  bottom  of  a  huge  circular  crater  rises  an  obelisk- 
shaped  mass  of  lava,  much  broken  and  furrowed,  and  surrounded  at  its 
base  by  vast  snow-fields.  It  is  extremely  steep,  and  looks  as  if  formed 
of  enormous  blocks  artificially  heaped  up  by  giant  hands.  The  highest 
part  consists  of  a  broad  plate  of  lava,  which  is  somewhat  difficult  to 
dimb,  and  which  looks  as  if  it  would  fieill  at  any  moment.  Standing  at 
the  edge  of  this  plate  one  enjoys  an  entirely  unbroken  view  all  around. 
At  sunrise  the  triangular  shadow  of  the  volcano  is  seen  thrown  in  sharp 
outline  upon  the  surface  of  the  neighbouring  sea.  As  the  sun  rises  the 
salient  angle  of  this  shadow  becomes  gradually  more  obtuse,  and  the 
shadow  itself  diminishes  and  finally  disappears.  I  have  seen  here  the 
play  of  colours  in  still  greater  perfection  than  at  Fujinoyama.  Like  a 
gay  greeting  to  the  mom,  the  long  reverberating  notes  of  the  trumpet 


94  TEt  PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY  OF  JAPAII,  ^^M 

ehells  blown  bj  the  pilgrims  who  have  arrived  at  the  edge  of  tho  crateTjJ 
re-ecbo  amoDgst  tho  steep  and  rugged  precipices.     Beyond  a  few  hot- ' 
apringB  at  the  foot  of  the  Diouiitain»  there  are  no  traces  of  volcanic  action. 
Bat  the  priestfl  t^all  ns  that  centuries  ago  two  enormous  fiery  snakes 
iaaued  from  the  mountain  side  and  crept  into  the  sea,  where  they  at  last 
disappeared  amidst  steam  and  foam. 

One  of  the  largest  and  wildest  mountain  masses  in  Japan,  having 
many  peaks  of  nearly  10,000  feet  in  height,  extends  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  western  ooast  of  tb©  main  island  where  the  latter  baa  its  greatest 
breadth*  It  is  commonly  styled  the  Shin  an  o  Hida  range.  The 
Tateyama  is  the  most  interesting  of  all  the  giants  in  this  range.  Of  quite 
a  different  shape  from  that  of  its  southern  brethren  Noriknra,  On  take, 
&c.,  it  also  conaifits  of  different  material.  The  sharp  wedge-shaped  ridge 
called  Tateyama,  adorned  with  white  bands  of  snow  between  green 
patches,  is  separated  from  a  range  to  the  eastward  by  an  extremely 
Bteep  and  deep  ravine.  This  ravine  a  little  ftirther  do^vn  is  roofed  over 
by  lava,  so  that  the  stream  flowing  through  it  appears  to  empty  itself 
into  the  bowels  of  the  earth.  On  the  western  side  are  extensive  slopes 
on  which  the  largest  and  most  interesting  solfatara  in  the  whole  of 
Japan  is  situated*  The  Japanese  call  it  Figoku  which  means  Hell,  and 
indeed  no  place  in  the  whole  world  could  remind  one  more  of  tho 
infernal  regions.  From  hundreds  of  openings  steam  is  emitted  with 
a  shrill  hissing  noise,  and  sulphurous  vapours  belch  forth  in  largo 
volumes.  At  the  edge  of  the  solfatara  I  found  some  small  mud 
volcanoes  in  regular  action.  On  some  of  the  openings  grew  graceful 
flower-like  cups  of  a  beautiful  yellow  colour  formed  of  minute  and 
glittering  crystals  of  sulphur.  These  cups  w^ei'e  in  one  case  about  six 
feet  in  height,  I  tried  to  sccuro  one  of  these  lifeless  yet  delicate 
flowers^  with  the  help  of  some  long  rods,  but  found  it  imposaiblo  on 
acconnt  of  the  unbearable  beat.  Tatejmma  is  one  of  those  famous 
mountains^  which  like  Fujinoyama,  Chokaisan,  and  others,  are  yearly 
visited  by  crowds  of  pilgrims.  The  rocky  wedge-shaped  back  of  the 
ridge  is  reached  by  scaling  the  southern  flank.  Having  ascended  the 
ridge  the  traveller  finds  himself  on  a  kind  of  small  platform  and  enjoys 
a  siiperb  view  extending  over  the  deeply-serrated,  rugged  and  jagged 
Shinano  Hida  range  to  the  south.  Like  a  huge  needle,  the  Yarigadake 
projects  from  the  confused  mass  of  ridges.  To  the  east,  a  fascinating 
picture  unveils  itself  like  a  vision.  There  the  smoking  Asamayama 
rises  as  if  swimming  on  silver  clouds,  surrounded  by  faint  blue  mngee 
of  hills.  To  the  far  west  tho  surface  of  the  Japanese  Sea  reflects  the 
sunlight.  At  sunrise  a  Buddhist  priest,  clad  in  rich  garments,  takes  his 
stand  on  a  small  platform  further  to  tbo  middle  of  tho  ridge,  where  a 
minature  temple  is  erected,  and  celebmtes  scrv^ice.  It  is  a  picture  full 
of  life  and  colour  when  hundreds  of  pilgrims  move  along  tho  narrow 
path  winding  between  deep  precipices,  to  reach  the  temple  high  above 
them,  where  the  priest  ia  praying. 


WITH  REMARKS  ON  THE  PEOPLE.  96 

Nearly  ten  years  ago  I  ascended  Tateyama  in  company  with  large 
crowdB  of  pilgrims.  Amongst  them  was  an  old  man  of  seventy,  with 
weary  eyes  and  feeble  limbs,  who  was  accompanied  by  a  tall  handsome 
lad  of  abont  fifteen,  bis  grandson.  The  old  man  looked  as  if  he  were  on 
the  point  of  death.  Four  coolies  had  to  work  hard  to  help  him  up  the 
steep  and  rocky  flank  of  the  ridge,  and  I  would  never  have  believed  that 
a  mountain  like  Tateyama  oould  have  been  ascended  by  a  man  in  his 
condition  if  I  had  not  seen  it  with  my  own  eyes.  What  energy  must 
be  requisite  to  accomplish  a  pilgrimage  under  such  circumstances.  His 
young  companion  troubled  himself  but  little  about  his  sick  grandfather. 
He  bounded  from  block  to  block,  gazed  at  the  woods  and  flowers  and 
appeared  to  have  eyes  for  anything  but  the  poor  old  man  at  his  side. 
I  shall  never  forget  the  contrast  presented  by  the  two  pilgrims,  the 
contrast  between  youth  and  i^,  between  life  and  death. 

When  I  arrived  at  the  sea-shore  after  my  Tateyama  journey,  on 
which  some  of  my  students  accompanied  me,  I  was  well  received  at  the 
house  of  a  Japanese  officer,  a  relative  of  one  of  my  companions.  Here, 
at  Namerikawa,  I  took  a  few  days'  rest,  and  then  engaged  a  junk  for 
Niigata,  which  lies  about  120  miles  further  north.  The  captain  of  the 
junk  assured  me  that  it  would  not  take  more  than  three  days  to  get  to 
Niigata.  We  started  at  night,  because,  as  the  captain  said,  we  should 
not  catch  the  breeze  from  the  mountains  during  the  day.  When  I  went 
on  board  I  had  occasion  to  witness  a  very  strange  spectacle.  Far  out 
in  the  open  sea  I  saw  a  huge  fire.  Bed  and  yellow  flames  rose  from 
the  surface  of  the  water.  At  intervals  the  sound  of  voices  travelled 
shorewards,  and  as  I  stood,  too  intent  on  what  I  was  witnessing  to  ask 
for  an  explanation,  the  riddle  appeared  to  develop  itself  into  a  perfect 
miracle.  Shrieks,  yells,  and  fragments  of  wild  songs  were  distinguish- . 
able ;  the  flames  drew  nearer  and  nearer,  and  I  could  make  out  amongst 
them  human  figures  which  rose  from  the  waves  for  a  moment  or  so,  but 
only  to  dive  back  into  the  waters  again.  It  was  like  a  dance  of  devils. 
Bat  the  flames  gradually  lost  their  brightness,  and  finally  died  away 
with  the  songs  and  cries  of  the  demons  until  nothing  gleamed  through 
the  darkness  of  the  night,  save  the  lights  of  the  lanterns  on  shore  and 
the  stars  in  the  sky,  and  nothing  was  heard  but  the  slow  movements  of 
the  waves  and  the  exclamations  of  the  boatmen.  Then  a  huge  mass 
propelled  by  numerous  fins,  like  a  swimming  myriapod,  approached  the 
shore.  When  this  miraculous  sea-monster  touched  land  I  went  to  view 
it,  and  found  it  to  be  a  large  raft  moved  by  a  crowd  of  swimming  boys. 
These  were  the  dancing  devils,  who  had  taken  the  raft,  heaped  up  with 
straw,  wood,  and  like  combustibles,  out  to  sea,  in  order  to  amuse  them- 
selves in  a  kind  of  sham  fight  by  the  firelight.  Those  who  succeeded 
in  mounting  into  the  raft  strove  to  prevent  the  rest  from  getting  into 
it,  but  were  at  the  same  time  assailed  by  their  comrades,  who  sought  to 
pull  them  back  into  the  water. 


96 


THE  PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY  OF  JAPAN, 


Tlie  journey  on  board  the  junk  was  the  most  nxiueralile  une  I  ever 
maiie  in  my  life.  I  isnYied  the  JapaneBe,  who  couH  sleep  in  any  postare 
whatsoever,  M'hilbt  I  tried  in  vain  to  arrange  my  aching  hones  in  a 
horizontal  position  on  the  very  uneven  surface  of  the  rice- bags  with 
whieh  the  junk  was  laden.  During  the  day  the  mountains,  basking  in 
the  bi  ight  summer  sunBhioe,  did  not  lend  any  breeze  to  swell  our  sails, 
and  so  wq  cam|>ed  on  the  sandy  shore,  which  wa^i  at  any  rata  clean, 
and  therefore  preferable  to  the  dirty  lii?h©r-huta,  but  where  we  w^ere 
nearly  roasted  by  the  sun.  After  wo  had  travelled  in  this  way  for  a 
couple  of  days,  I  decided  to  leave  the  junk,  and  was  fortunate  enough 
to  disGover  a  very  nice  temple,  with  a  hospitable  pricat.  Here  I  settled 
down,  and  as  it  waa  evening,  soon  fell  asleep.  But  I  had  scarcely  slept 
an  hour,  when  my  Japanese  servant  aroused  me,  and  announced  a 
splendid  wind.  Hoping  to  got  to  Niigata  by  the  aid  of  the  newly- 
risen  breeze,  I  hurried  hack  to  the  shore  and  got  on  board  again  after 
some  serious  difficulties,  m  the  junk  ivas  rolling  heavily.  Now*  came 
the  worst  part  of  the  journey.  When  morning  broke  the  wand  fell,  to 
my  satisfaotion,  though  certainly  not  to  that  of  the  sailors.  I  had  had 
anough  of  it.  We  bad  spent  four  days  in  getting  half-way  to  Niigata, 
and  I  continued  the  journey  overland  in  a  sedan  chair,  on  horsebaok, 
and  lastly  by  boat,  arriving  at  my  destination  at  two  o'clock  in  the 
mornings  with  a  stomach  as  empty  as  a  vacuum.  I  was,  however, 
fortunate  enough  to  be  taken  for  the  German  ambas^sador,  in  consetiuenco 
of  the  similarity  of  the  Japanese  words  Ilushi  and  Riyoshi,  one  of  which 
means  ambassador  and  the  other  professor.  An  ambassador  may  expect 
to  be  supplied  wnth  sardines,  ham,  steak,  and  anything  else,  even  at 
two  o'clock  in  the  morning  ;  a  professor,  as  a  rule,  n«jt. 

Some  30  miles  north  of  Niigata  the  Miyomotegawa  flows  into  the 
Sea  of  Japan,  This  is  one  of  the  most  romantic  rivers  in  the  whole 
country.  Following  its  course  we  soon  enter  a  naiTOW  gorge,  with  sides 
so  steep  that  it  is  for  some  distance  quite  impossible  to  keep  close  to  the 
water.  Further  up  we  saw  the  river  with  its  confluents  descending  from 
an  enormous  mass  of  mountiiin,  amidst  which  two  peaks,  Asashi  and 
Ide,  appeared  especially  prominent.  The  Miyomotegawa  abounds  in  fish, 
especially  in  the  lower  part  of  its  course.  The  Japanese  have  a  multitude 
of  methods  of  catchiug  fish,  upon  which  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  enter, 
as  most  of  them  have  been  shown  in  the  Fisheries  Exhibition.  I  will, 
nevertheless,  refer  to  one  plan  which  I  have  l>cen  told  is  also  in  use  in 
Scotland.  A  small  platform  is  erected  at  the  river  side  afc  a  point  where 
the  water  rushes  over  foaming  rapids.  Here  a  man  takes  his  stand  with 
a  harpoon*  Thi'ce  or  four  others  entering  the  water,  occupy  themselves 
in  trying  to  drive  the  fish  towards  the  platform.  I  have  seen  young 
lads  working  up  a  rapid  where  anybody  not  accustomed  to  this  kind  of 
sport  would  have  been  swept  away  by  the  tremendous  force  of  tlie 
current.     These  fellows,  however,  were  moving  through  the  foaming 


WITH  REMARKS  ON  THE  PEOPLE.  97 

waters  like  the  fish  themselves.  The  man  on  the  platform  throws  his 
harpoon  as  soon  as  a  fish  comes  near  enough,  and  very  seldom  misses 
one.  Should  a  fish  succeed  in  passing  the  platform,  a  man  a  little  higher 
up  stream  prevents  it  from  escaping.*  Another  interesting  method  of 
fishing,  chiefly  practised  in  Southern  Japan,  is  by  means  of  cormorants. 
This  is  pursued  as  a  sport  by  many  people  of  the  higher  classes.  In 
some  places  it  is  practised  at  night  by  the  aid  of  fires. 

Let  us  return  to  the  wild  mountain  mass  near  Niigata,  which,  as  I 
kave  mentioned,  is  crowned  by  the  peaks  Asashi  and  Ido.  The  upper 
valleys  of  these  mountains  are  extremely  steep.  Ascending  a  ridge 
means  rough  and  difficult  climbing,  and  moving  along  it  is  commonly 
just  as  dangerous.  So  deep  and  steep-sided  are  they  that  blocks  from  the 
weathered  granite  surface,  when  set  in  motion,  roll  down  to  the  bottom 
with  tremendous  velocity.  Many  parts  of  this  mountain  region  are  not 
accessible  in  summer-time.  But  in  the  early  months  of  the  year,  when 
snow  fills  the  chasms  and  the  surface  is  hardened  all  over  by  the  constant 
change  of  temperature  from  thawing  during  the  day  to  freezing  during 
the  night,  it  is  possible  to  cross  them  without  difficulty.  Then  the 
farmers  leave  their  smoky  huts  and  set  out  bear  hunting,  leading  a 
rough  life  amidst  the  snowy  mountains.  They  sleep  in  small  pits  sunk 
into  the  snow  by  means  of  fires  kindled  upon  it  and  fed  by  boughs  from 
the  tops  of  the  trees  projecting  above  the  surface.  The  masses  of  snow 
which  accumulate  in  the  mountainous  regions  and  even  on  the  west 
coast  of  Northern  Japan  are  enormous.  There  are  villages  which 
frequently  experience  a  fall  of  over  20  feet  of  snow.  In  an  ordinary 
farmhouse  you  will  find,  at  any  hour  of  the  day,  the  whole  family  gathered 
round  the  open  fire,  which  is  also  used  for  cooking  purposes.  The  smoke 
of  this  fire  is  supposed  to  escape  through  a  hole  in  the  roof  right  above 
it,  but  it  sometimes  fills  the  whole  house  and  causes  much  pain  to  the 
eyes.  I  have  had  to  spend  many  a  night  in  such  a  shelter  when  the 
winter  storm  was  raging  without.  As  I  was  obliged  to  carry  on  my 
surveys  as  late  in  the  year  as  possible  I  was  surpiised  several  times 
by  the  first  snows  when  trying  to  get  across  a  mountain  pass.  In  such 
cases  retreat  was  a  necessity.  Once  I  had  started  earlier  than  my 
Japanese  companions  and  being  quite  alone,  lost  my  way.  It  took  me 
a  long  time  to  discover  a  cluster  of  houses,  but  even  then  it  was  difficult 
to  obtain  access  to  them.  People  had  already  settled  down  for  the 
winter  and  the  outer  gates  were  fastened  up  all  round.  During  the 
winter  people  in  the  mountains,  of  course,  do  very  little  work.  I  know 
a  village  in  the  north  of  the  main  island,  called  Eiriake,  where  the 
inhabitants  after  their  breakfast  go  to  the  baths,  which  are  fed  by  hot 
springs,  and  remain  in  them  for  the  whole  of  the  day  enjoying  the  heat. 
The  extent  of  the  Japanese  islands  in  a  north  and  south  direction, 
and  the  mountainous  character  of  the  country,  are  the  causes  that  any 
*  I  saw  this  method  of  fishlDg  in  the  Mijakogawa  valley,  Northern  Japan. 


98 


THE  PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY  OF  JAPAN, 


variety  uf  climate  can  he  £ound  within  their  limitB.  Climate  changes 
with  tlie  level  as  well  as  with  the  latitude.  On  the  CK>ean  side  of 
Southern  Japan  the  palm  treOj  the  orange  tree,  and  the  camphor  tree 
flourish.  Some  small  ialauds  near  this  coast  may  be  found  covered  with 
flowers  at  the  beginning  of  February,  when  the  lake  of  Suwa  in  the 
interior  of  the  main  island  is  frozen  over  so  firmly  that  fairs  are  held 
upon  it.  A  decided  diierence  of  climate  prevails  between  the  con- 
tinental Bide  and  the  ocean  side.  That  of  the  latter  is  more  equable, 
being  warmer  in  winter  and  cooler  in  summer.  Once  at  the  end  of 
Ifovember,  when  crossing  the  Miknni  pass  on  ray  way  from  Niigata, 
I  saw  all  the  mountains  white  with  snow  behind  me,  whilst  the  country 
on  the  Tokio  side  was  f»till  wholly  covered  with  verdure.  On  the 
Pacific  side  the  climate  is  a  normal  insular  climate,  and  from  the  South 
Cape  of  Kiufihiu  up  to  the  neighbourhood  of  the  capital  Tokio  the  warm 
current  known  a»  the  Knroshiwo,  the  Gulf  Stream  of  the  Pacino,  has  a 
considerable  influence  upon  the  temperature. 

Those  parts  of  Japan  which  have  not  to  aufler  from  snow  or  cold,  are 
of  course  of  greater  importance  in  respect  to  agricTilture.  Moreover  the 
character  of  the  coast  and  the  number  of  good  harbours  afford  facilities 
of  communication  which  give  Southern  Japan  a  further  economical 
advantage  over  the  northern  parts  of  the  countiy-  In  former  times 
when  the  empire  was  split  up  into  a  number  of  domimona  ruled  by 
the  60-called  daimios,  who  were  feudal  chiefs  with  a  certain  military 
power,  the  three  provinceB  of  Satsuma,  Tosa,  and  C  bosh  in  were  the  most 
power fnh  Up  to  the  time  of  the  recent  restoration  of  the  Mikado's 
government  they  used  to  play  the  most  important  part,  and  even  at  the 
present  day  the  ministry  is,  with  hut  few  exceptions,  composed  of  natives 
of  Satsuma  and  Choshiu.  This  further  shows  how  the  intellectual  power 
also  remained  with  Southern  Japan.  Yery  remarkable  is  the  geo- 
graphical situation  of  these  three  provinces,  a  circumBtanoe  which  has 
no  doubt  had  a  great  deal  to  do  with  their  political  importance,  Eaoh 
of  them  was  easily  defensible  on  account  of  its  natural  boundaries,  sea  on 
the  one  side  and  high  mountains  on  the  other,  and  each  had  a  good  and 
important  port,  Choshiu  is  situated  on  the  narrow  straits  of  Shimo- 
noseki,  the  inlet  to  the  inland  sea,  one  of  the  most  important  gates  to 
the  whole  of  Japan.  Here  the  military  claMS  are  always  on  the  alert, 
and  as,  owing  to  the  number  of  vessels  constantly  passing  by,  informa- 
tion waB  easily  procured,  not  only  from  all  parts  of  Japan  but  also  from 
abroad,  measures  could  be  concerted  accordingly.  The  Choshiu-Samurai 
was  always  considered  to  be  a  good  sol(3ier,  but  more  on  account  of  his 
strategical  qualities  than  in  consequence  of  his  bravery  in  open  battle. 
The  Satsuma  man  is  a  soldier  who  is  seen  to  the  best  advantage  when 
fighting,  a  eoldier  to  the  core^  full  of  energy  and  eamestness,  and 
straightforward  in  his  sayings  and  doings. 

Tosa  is  a  rich  country,  and  its  people  are  renowned  for  their  honesty 


WITH  REHARES  09  THE  PEOPLE.  99 

and  tmthfalneas.  Heie  I  met  with  true  friendly  feeling,  and  I  enjoy 
the  remembianoe  of  the  days  spent  in  a  village  of  this  province.  At 
the  beginiung  of  1885  I  revisited  the  island  of  Shikoku  to  perfect  some 
details  of  my  previous  surveys  and  explorations.  After  crossing  the 
mountain  chain  extending  between  Eawanoye  and  the  Namto  Straits,  I 
entered  the  valley  of  the  Yosbinogawa,  and  engaged  a  boat  to  go  up  the 
river  in  order  to  observe  the  geological  formation  at  the  part  where  the 
stream  crosses  the  main  mass  of  the  mountains  of  the  island.  We  had  to 
ascend  the  rapids,  and  this  was  a  most  interesting  journey.  Several  times 
the  boat  had  to  be  attached  to  ropes  secured  to  some  projecting  rock  further 
up  stream,  in  order  to  let  it  swing  from  the  rocky  to  the  flat  shore. 
The  Yoshinogawa  valley,  where  it  crosses  the  mountains  is  of  extreme 
beauty.  Nowhere  could  one  see  a  more  beautiful  deep  emerald  green 
than  that  of  the  water,  while  the  mica  schists  appear  like  silver  in  the 
sunshine,  offering  a  strong  contrast  to  the  black  shadows  of  the  nume- 
rous fissures  and  caves.  Unfortunately  I  met  with  an  accident  to  my 
foot  when  jumping  across  a  stream,  and  became  unable  to  walk.  When 
I  got  to  Eawanoye,  beyond  which  place  the  boatmen  refused  to  go  on 
account  of  the  dangers,  I  had  a  sedan-chair  made  of  bamboo,  with  a 
board  for  a  seat,  for  which  I  paid  the  undoubtedly  small  sum  of  lOd. 
Ouried  by  two  coolies,  and  kept  in  a  position  by  no  means  comfDrtable, 
I  tracked  the  course  of  the  Yoshinogawa,  some  time  passing  along  steep 
precipices  with  the  river  some  hundred  feet  below.  We  had  to  cross  a 
number  of  tributaries  of  the  Yoshinogawa,  which  were  bridged  over  by 
tree-trunks,  connecting  huge  blocks  of  stone  lying  in  the  bed  of  the 
river.  I  confess  that  I  sometimes  felt  a  little  uneasy  when  I  found 
myself  amidst  the  raging  waters.  But  my  coolies  were  to  be  relied  on. 
They  delivered  me  at  Biosekimura,  where  I  was  well  received  by  my 
friends,  in  as  sound  a  condition  as  could  have  been  expected. 

It  was  at  the  beginning  of  January  that  I  started  from  Hiteyoshi, 
one  of  the  old  castle  towns  of  the  province  of  Higo,  to  proceed  to 
Eagoshima,  the  capital  of  Satsuma.  Much  snow  had  fallen  on  the 
previous  day,  and  it  was  bitterly  cold.  The  road  soon  led  up  a  small 
valley,  and  not  very  long  afterwards  I  found  myself  on  a  kind  of 
slightly  rising  plateau,  nearly  covered  with  snow.  My  servant  and  a 
Japanese  draughtsman  who  accompanied  me  were  behind  with  the 
luggage,  and  I  pursued  my  way  quite  alone.  The  plateau  appeared 
endless,  and  it  was  not  until  I  had  gone  a  distance  of  about  six  miles 
that  I  reached  its  edge.  Here  at  the  frontier  of  Satsuma  this  plateau 
ends  in  steep  clifb,  and  I  found  myself  on  the  edge  of  an  enormous 
crater  surrounding  the  famous  volcanic  group  of  Eirishimayama.  The 
view  from  the  edge  of  the  plateau,  after  seeing  nothing  but  slightly 
undulating  country  was  fascinating.  Down  below  extended  tracts  of 
fertile  and  highly  cultivated  country,  along  the  crater  cliff  flowed  a 
broad  winding  river,  from  out  the  crater  rose  a  mass  of  mountains 


100 


THE  PflrSICAL  GEOGRAPHY  OF  JAPAN, 


crowned  by  a  number  of  lofty  pealts,  and  far  away  in  the  background 
towered  the  gracefiil  couesi  of  Sakuraekinia  and  Kaimondake. 

The  greater  portion  of  the  province  of  Satsnma  consists  of  a  low 
tableland  of  white  volanio  tuflF  with  mnch  pumice.  This  tableland  i& 
very  sterile.  The  northern  parts  of  the  province,  which  are  hilly,  and 
where  the  valleys  are  highly  cultivated,  are  of  greater  value.  The 
southern  section  of  the  Satsuma  peninsula  deservea  to  be  praised  as  one 
of  the  finest  spots  in  the  whole  country.  There  are  some  charming 
lakes,  situated  very  close  to  the  aea-shore,  which  have  been  craters  in 
former  times.  The  summits  of  the  hills  offer  beautiful  views  over  the 
bay  of  Kagoshima,  the  neighbouring  coast,  and  the  volcanic  ifilands 
of  the  Liukiu-cbain.  Kaimondake»  a  fine  conical  mountain,  stands  like 
an  outpostj  being  onlj^  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  narrow  neck. 

The  recent  hiatoiy  of  Japan  has  been  praised  by  some  writers, 
blamed  by  others*  I  may  be  allowed  to  submit  some  opinions  derived 
from  a  long  intercourse  with  all  sections  of  the  Japanese  people.  My 
duties  and  my  travels  brought  me  into  close  contact  with  farmers, 
merchants,  manufacturers,  and  others,  in  different  parts  of  the  country, 
an  advantage  which  only  the  travelling  observer  has  occasion  to  enjoy. 

Japan  is  an  agricultnral  conntry.  Nearly  half  the  people  are  tillers 
of  the  soil.  The  number  of  inhabitants  exceeds  that  of  England  ;  the 
average  density  of  population  being  about  the  same  as  in  this  country. 
Among  the  crops  grown,  rice  takes  the  foremost  place;  but  can  only  be 
grown  in  those  parts  of  the  country  which  are  capable  of  irrigation,  such 
as  plains  and  valleys.  Hillsides  and  dry  tracts  of  land  are  chiefly  sown 
with  barley  and  wheat,  with  the  addition  of  beans,  peas,  millet,  Indian 
com,  potatoes,  &c.  The  cultivation  of  tea  is  very  important^  notably 
for  e^tport,  as  is  that  of  the  mulberry-tree  in  connection  witli  the 
manufacture  of  bilk.  In  Northern  Japan  we  meet  with  the  lacquer 
tree;  in  the  southern  part  of  the  countiy  with  cotton,  with  certain  plants 
from  which  paper  is  manufactured,  the  tobacco  plant,  &c.  The  style  of 
living  is  simple,  modest,  and  devoid  of  luxury.  In  addition  to  rice, 
which  forms  the  staple  of  the  daily  food,  fish  and  vegetables  are 
commonly  eaten.  Comparing  our  dwelling-houses  with  those  of  the 
Japanese  we  might  say  that  the  former  are  distinguished  by  substantial 
and  lasting  qualities,  while  the  Japanes  structures  are  light,  airy,  and 
perishable.  Even  a  Japanese  of  the  first-class  does  not  require  roomy 
lodgings ;  be  feels  more  at  home  in  a  email  place ;  often  living  without 
any  other  furniture  than  the  charceal  braziers^  A  small  garden,  gs^j 
with  flowers  in  the  spring,  and  commonly  attached  to  the  best  room  in 
the  house,  is  hardly  ever  wanting,  and  is  frequently  supplemented  by 
some  stone  lanterns,  and  perhaps  also  a  mi  nature  pond  with  gold  fish. 
Should  the  house  be  in  a  place  from  whence  a  fine  view  can  be  obtained, 
the  owner  will  be  justly  proud  of  this  circumstance.  In  one  of  tho 
places  which  I  visited,  the  beauties  of  the  scenery  and  the  wide  view 


WiTH  REMARKS  ON  THE  PEOPLE.     /...  101 

were  alluded  to  in  a  Chinese  poem  hung  upon  the  wall,1^cv  approximate 
translation  being :  **  Thousand  miles — one  glance." 

One  of  the  great  obstacles  to  progress  is  offered  by  thej^^pendence 
upon  the  Chinese  language.  Only  the  spoken  language  isV^panese, 
and  even  in  this  the  use  of  Chinese  words  is  regarded  as  a  signjof 
education.  Public  documents,  scientific  books,  newspapers,  <&c.,  ard  all 
written  in  a  mixture  of  Chinese  and  Japanese.  There  is  another  's^le- 
of  writing,  called  Hirakana,  quite  independent  of  the  Chinese,  which*  i^' 
chiefly  used  by  women,  and  another  known  as  the  Earakana,  a  system  of/ 
phonetical  characters  chiefly  used  in  combination  with  Chinese.  A 
Chinese  character  stands  as  the  symbol  of  a  conception.  The  number 
of  these  characters  is  enormous.  If  you  ask  a  Japanese  to  read  off  the 
name  of  a  certain  town  or  of  a  certain  mountain  from  a  map  he  will  be 
found  unable  to  do  so  if  he  be  not  acquainted  with  the  locality  in  ques- 
tion. These  names  can  commonly  be  read  both  in  the  Japanese  and  in 
the  Chinese  way,  and  it  is  always  doubtful  which  transliteration  is  the 
one  in  use.  Another  example  may  serve  to  show  how  obstructive  the 
use  of  Chinese  must  be.  Suppose  a  military  force  be  sent  to  a  certain 
part  of  the  interior  to  suppress  a  riot  or  to  encounter  any  enemy.  The 
officers  in  command  may  be  provided  with  excellent  maps  on  which 
the  names  are  given  in  Chinese.  In  such  a  case  much  difficulty  is  sure 
to  be  met  with  in  reading  the  maps.  Or  take  the  reverse  case.  A 
surveyor  working  amongst  the  mountains  leams  from  the  inhabitants, 
the  name  of  a  certain  peak,  or  of  a  certain  locality.  To  write  it  down 
in  Chinese  he  must  ask  the  people  for  the  necessary  character.  But 
perhaps  they  do  not  know  this.  In  such  a  case  he  cannot  write  it,  and 
perhaps  drops  it  altogether,  making  the  very  common  remark,  "  Shikata- 
go-nai,"  which  means  "  It  cannot  be  helped."  A  Chinese  and  an  edu- 
cated Japanese  could  exchange  ideas  in  writing,  but  not  by  speech.  The 
employment  of  Chinese  as  a  generally  adopted  means  for  the  transmission 
of  thoughts,  nevertheless  offers  certain  advantages.  The  inoculation,  so 
to  say,  of  the  brain  with  Chinese  characters  which  has  been  in  practice 
for  a  thousand  years  has  tended  wonderfully  to  develop  the  faculties  of 
memory.  In  this  way  we  may  account  for  the  cleverness  commonly 
shown  by  Japanese  students  in  the  branches  of  elementary  learning. 
The  use  of  Chinese  as  a  written  language,  by  necessitating  the  constant 
employment  of  the  brush,  has  also  been  an  important  factor  in  the 
development  of  art.  For  drawing,  the  soft  brush  is  certainly  much 
more  suitable  than  the  hard  pencil.  Merely  by  his  lessons  in  writing 
the  Japanese  pupil  early  obtained  a  certain  facility  of  touch,  a  certain 
command  over  the  representation  of  form  by  lines. 

When,  some  thirty  years  ago,  western  civilisation,  equipped  with  its 
imposing  armour  of  science  and  its  technical  appliances,  drew  near  Japan, 
it  was  just  at  the  most  favourable  moment  for  forcing  its  way  into  the 
country.    Internal  struggles  had  broken  down  the  feudal  system,  the 

No.  IL— Feb.  1887.]  I 


102 


.pJUTAm  M.yTLAND*S  AND  CAPTAIN  TALBOTS 


old  rights*  of  *  the  Mikado  were  restored,  ami  after  years  of  civil  war 

the  worW,  of  .peace  began.     CiTilisation  was  the  word.     What  could  have 

been  nfgri^  convenient  in  Bticb  a  case  than  to  apply  the  foreign  pattern 

to  tte  new  organisation  of  public  order?    For  the  administrative  B^'stem 

fo/  the*  navy,  the  army,  the  post,  the  telegraph,  &c.,  foreign  models  were 

spe^?dily  adapted.     It  must  be  remarked  that  those  changes  did  not  take 

'**jh*ce  fipontaneously.     The  ends  aimed  at  by  the  Imperial  party  during 

'  Hho  civil  war  were  of  a  political  character^  the  civilising  refoi-ms  were 

.  not  anticipated.     Had  those  civilising  reforms  been  the  direct  resnlt  of 

internal  development,  no  doubt  they  would  have  been  undertaken  with 

H  great  deal  more  moderation,  steadiness,  and  perseverance. 

The  acquisitions  made  up  to  the  present  are  commonly  looked  upon 
with  admiration.  Certainly  the  Jnpaneae  desei*ve  our  ftill  sympathy 
for  their  endeavours,  and  it  cannot  be  denied  that  they  have  been  in 
some  degree  successful.  We  hope  that  the  final  result  will  be  favourable 
to  them.  The  rate  of  advance  deairable  depends,  in  my  opinion,  alto- 
gether upon  the  opening  up  of  the  country*  And  the  country  must  be 
opened  np  some  time  or  other,  in  consequence  of  the  constant  pressure 
acting  from  without.  When  it  is  so  oiiened  up,  it  will  be  shown  how 
far  the  power  of  the  Japanese  has  been  developed  to  become  an  agent  in 
inteniational  struggles.  The  power  of  the  peoplo  should  be  strengthened 
both  intellectually  and  materially.  In  the  latter  direction  the  Geological 
Survey  was  expected  to  become  an  important  aid  to  progress.  The  chief 
object  of  this  suiTey  was  the  systematic  investigation  of  the  local  and 
physical  conditions  of  the  coiintry  and  the  dependence  of  the  population 
ui>on  these  conditions.  From  the  result  of  these  investigations  pro- 
posals were  to  l>6  drawn  up  for  the  utilisation  of  the  country's  resources. 
The  entire  work  was  therefore  a  species  of  applied  geography.  I  am 
extremely  sorry  at  not  having  been  able  to  convince  the  Japanese 
Government  of  the  high  importance,  nay,  of  the  necessity  of  the  under- 
taking, and  the  surveys  are  consequently  being  continued  Avi thou t  much 
attention  being  paid  to  the  practical  aims  with  special  reference  to  which 
they  were  originally  started.  I  may  he  allowed  to  express  the  hope  that 
the  Geological  Survey  of  Japan  may  still  become  what  it  was  intended 
to  be»  namely,  a  mediator  between  science  and  the  economical  require- 
ments of  the  country. 


Captain  Maitland'B  and  Captain  TaJhoCs  Journeys  in  Afffhamsian. 

A  VERY  interesting  piece  of  exploration  was  completed  in  Afghanistan 
in  the  autumn  and  winter  of  1885  by  Captain  P.  J,  Maitland  and  Captain 
the  Hun.  M.  G.  Talbot,  These  two  officers  ascended  the  valley  of  the 
Ileri-rud,  past  Obeh  (visited  hj  Khanikotf)  ai*  far  as  Daulatyar.  Here 
the  party  struck  upon  the  route  followed  in  1837  by  Captain  Arthur 


JOURNEYS  IN  AFGHANISTAN.  108 

Conolly  in  his  adventarons  journey  from  Cabul  to  Khiva,  of  which 
anfortnnately  no  complete  record  exists,  though  there  are  some  inter- 
esting extracts  in  the  *  Calcutta  Eeview'  for  1851.  At  Badghah,  where 
Conolly  must  have  probably  turned  off  northwards  over  the  mountains 
to  Maimanah,  Captain  Maitland  was  shown  a  certificate  in  Persian 
from  Colonel  Conolly,  stating  that  he  had  received  important  services 
^m  Muhammad  Azim,  the  late  Ataluk  or  petty  chief  of  the  district. 
The  story  told  to  Captain  Maitland  was,  that  the  Ataluk  and  his  men 
had  beaten  off  an  attack  made  on  Conolly,  but  from  the  latter's  diary  it 
would  seem  that  matters  did  not  come  to  actual  fighting,  though  on  one 
occasion,  at  least,  things  were  very  near  to  it.  Crossing  the  water- 
parting  between  the  two  head  streams  of  the  Heri-rud,  the  Sar-i-jangal 
and  the  Lai  streams,  Captain  Maitland  ascended  the  course  of  the  latter, 
through  a  well  populated  and  cultivated  valley.  Large  flocks  of  sheep  and 
goats  were  seen,  the  former  of  which  supply  the  skins  for  a  large  number 
of  posttns  or  woollen  coats  made  at  Kabul.  The  winter  is  severe,  and 
snow  closes  all  the  roads  from  the  middle  of  November  till  the  middle 
of  February,  and  for  forty  or  sixty  days  after  that  the  country  is  said 
to  be  absolutely  impassable  even  for  pedestrians,  the  clayey  roads  being 
very  deep  and  slippery,  and  every  little  stream  a  raging  torrent.  The 
Hazarahs  appeared  to  be  a  simple,  good-natured,  industrious  people,  but 
of  no  value  for  fighting.  The  women  did  not  seem  to  merit  the  character 
for  immorality  ascribed  to  them.  There  is  a  welcome  absence  of  crime 
in  the  Hazarajat,  which  is  no  doubt  due  to  the  comparatively  tractable 
nature  of  the  people.  Captain  Maitland's  route  from  the  upper  valley 
of  the  Heri-rud  into  the  Yaikolang  or  Yak  Walang  valley  is  diflScult  to 
trace,  owing  to  the  unsatisfactory  nature  of  the  existing  maps,*  but  it 
lies  probably  along  the  same  line  as  that  taken  in  reverse  direction  by 
Captain  Conolly.  The  pass  over  which  they  crossed,  descending  upon 
Zari  in  the  Yak  Walang  valley,  is  called  the  Bakkak  Kotal,  and  Captain 
Maitland  says  it  is  the  only  real  difficulty  on  the  whole  road  between 
Herat  and  Bamian,  and  much  worse,  so  far  as  he  knows,  than  anythiDg 
on  the  Besud  road  between  Herat  and  Kabul.  This  latter  road  was 
examined  by  Dafadar  Muhammad  Akbar  Khan,  who  had  instructions  to 
follow  the  main  Kabul  road  through  Besud  to  Cardan  Diwal,  and  con- 
tinuing along  the  Kabul-Bamian  road  to  cross  the  Irak  pass  and  join 
Captain  Maitland  at  Zubak  in  Bamian.  This  was  carried  out  by  the 
Dafadar,  and  his  topography  has  furnished  a  reliable  knowledge  of  the 
remainder  of  the  main  road  from  Kabul  to  Herat.  The  point  where 
the  Besud  and  the  Bamian  routes  diverge  is  a  small  deserted  fort,  called 
Kala  Sofarak,  between  the  Lai  and  Kerman  valleys,  and  forty-one  miles 
from  Daulatyar. 

The  Yak  Walang  stream  comes  from  a  watershed  to  the  east,  on  the 

*  The  most  trustworthy  of  the  old  mapa  is  the  large  one  prepared  by  Eldred 
PoMmger  in  1840,  on  the  a^e  of  eight  milea  to  the  inch. 

I  2 


104 


CAPTAIN  MAITLAND'S  AND  CAPTAIN  TALBOTS 


other  side  of  which  the  drainage  is  io  Bam i  an.    Its  principal  courae  is  al 

the  Band* i- Amir  or  Baiid-i*Barbar,  a  eeriea  of  curious  natui^  dams 

forming  seven  narrow  and  deep  kkee.     It  fomiB  the  upper  course  of  the 

river  called  Balkh  Ao  or  sti^am  of  Balkh,  along  the  course  of  which  runs 

the  ancient  road  from  Bamian  to  Balkh*    Part  of  this  road  was  examined 

by  Captain  Maitland,  and  en  route  he  visited  the  ruins  of  Chahilburj 

and  Khana  Yahudi.     On  a  high  scarped  hill  between  the  two  are  the 

niiuH  of  Shabar-i-Barbar,  which  according  to  tradition  was  once  the 

capital  of  kiugs  who   luled   over  a  country  most  of  which   is   now 

included  in  the  Hazarajat.     The  people  are  said  to  have  been  called 

Barl>ar,  and  to  have  l>een  in  posscBsion  of  the  country,  when  the  Tartars 

or  Mugbals,  from  whom  the  Hazarahs  are  said  to  have  sprnng,  first 

invaded  it.    Captain  Maitland  considers  that  they  may  have  been  Tajiks 

of  the  same  stock  as  those  now  living  in  Badakhehan.     An  excursion 

was  made  to  the  celebrated  Band-i-Amir  lakes,  which  are  mentioned 

by  tbe  poet  Moore  under  tho  name  of  '*  Bendemeer's  gtream*"      From 

thence  there  are  roads  to  Kamard  and  to  Mazar-i«Sharif  by  Dara-i- 

Tufluf,     Tbe  former  is  very  difficult,  and  the  latter  by  no  means  easy 

in  certain  places,  but  nevertheless  important.     On  crossing  the  high 

flat    watershed  of  the  Yak  Walang  [and   Bamian   streams   the   main 

features  of  the  country  became  apparent.     On  the  north  side   of  tho^fll 

main  range  stretches  a  vast  broken  phiteau  diversified  by  small  ranges 

and  scored  by  deep  valleys  and  raviDcs,  but  there  is  a  tolerably  well 

defined  elevated   tract  lying   between  the   Rud-i-Band-i-Amir  on  the 

w^est,  and  the  Ghori  or  Kundnz  river  on  the  east.     It  thus  fills  up^  w^ith 

tbe  exception  of  the  narrow  valley  of  these  rivers,  the  whole  space 

between  the  Hindu  Eiish  and  the  high  mountains  about  tbe  sources  of 

the  Hari*nid  and  Murghab.      The  plateau  slopes  gently  to  the  north 

and  parts  of  it  are  fairly  level.     It  comes  to  an  end  about  the  latitude  of 

Haibak,  but  between  it  and  the  plain  of  Afghan  Turkistan  is  another 

range  or  narrow  irregular  plateau  rising  to  a  considerable  height  above 

the  latter,  and  sharply  defining  the  boundary  between  the  valley  of  the 

Oxus  and  the  Kohietan.     This  range  runs  east  and  west  at  a  distance  of 

five  to  twelve  miles  from  the  towns  of  Tashkurgan,  Mazar-i-Shanf^  and 

Balkh,  and  appears  to  extend  from  near  Shibarghan  on  the  west  to  not 

far  from  Knnduz  on  the  east.    This  feature  w^as  a  great  surprise,  for  it  is 

liardly  indicated  on  tbe  map»  and  is  not  mentioned  by  previous  travellers. 

The  main  plateau  is  intersected   by  three  very  deep  parallel  valleys, 

iiinning  from  west  to  east  and  draining  to  the  Kundiiz  river.     Tho  fii-st 

is  that  of  Bamian  near  the  main  range,  tho  next  that  of  Saighan,  and  the 

thii'd  Kamard.    North  of  Kamard  is  the  rather  high  ridge  which  the  road 

crosses  by  the  Kara  Kotal,  and  from  its  farther  side  the  long  deep  defile 

of  tbe  Tashknrghan  stream  runs  north  through  tho  whole  remaining 

leogths  of  the  plateau  to  that  town. 

At  Bamian,  which  is  about  380  milos  from  Herat,  and  132  from 


JOURNEYS  IN  AFGHANISTAN.  105 

DftDlatyar,  the  ofiSoers  stayed  several  days  and  examined  the  famous 
idols— a  detailed  account  of  which  was  written  by  Captain  Talbot — the 
caves  and  ruins.  To  see  Bamian  alone,  Captain  Maitland  remarks,  was 
worth  all  the  trouble  of  the  journey.  Full  details  were  obtained 
respecting  the  three  passes  over  the  main  range  from  the  lower  end  of 
Bamian,  viz.  the  Panjfilan,  the  Irak,  and  the  Shibar  or  Sbabar.  Bamian 
is  a  deep  valley  bounded  on  the  south  by  spurs  of  the  main  range,  here 
known  as  the  Koh-i-baba.  On  the  north  side  is  a  long  mountain  over 
which  there  are  only  one  or  two  indifferent  tracks.  The  main  road  goes 
up  the  valley  westward,  and  for  some  miles  through  a  defile  from  which 
two  parallel  roads  lead  to  Saighan,  the  population  of  which,  as  of 
Bamian,  is  Tajik  with  a  certain  admixture  of  Hazarahs.  The  valleys, 
though  narrow,  are  well  cultivated,  and  there  is  abundance  of  fruit. 
The  hiUsy  however,  are  too  high  and  rocky  for  the  daima  cultivation  so 
universal  in  the  Hazarajat,  and  grain  is  imported.  All  the  way  along 
the  route  Captain  Maitland  found  a  constant  stream  of  people  migrating 
from  the  country  about  Kabul  to  Afghan  Turkistan,  a  movement  which 
is  always  proceeding  more  or  less,  but  which  was  at  that  time  more 
marked  than  usual  on  account  of  the  scarcity  at  Kabul.  To  the  valley 
of  Kamard,  which  is  just  beyond  Saighan,  there  are  three  roads,  the 
Maidanak,  the  celebrated  Dandan  Shikan  or  **  tooth-breaker,"  and  the 
Dosht-i-Sufed,  which  appears  to  be  the  best  of  the  three,  as  well  as  the 
shortest  line  to  Bajgah.  The  lofty  cliffs  inclosing  the  valley  of 
Kamard  are  very  striking,  and  the  land  is  excellently  cultivated,  but 
there  is  not  much  of  it.  Passing  through  Bajgah,  the  farthest  British 
poet  occupied  in  1839,  and  Bui,  Khuram  was  reached,  whither  Ferrier 
claims  to  have  come  from  Balkh,  and  from  thence  to  have  turned  off 
eastward  to  the  Eud-i-Band-i-Amir.  The  opinion,  however,  of  both 
Captain  Maitland  and  Captain  Talbot  is  that  Ferrier*s  travels  were 
drawn  up  from  hearsay  information  and  that  he  probably  never  left 
Herat. 

At  Haibak  the  two  officers  parted  company,  Captain  Talbot  pro- 
ceeding into  the  valley  of  the  Ghori,  while  Captain  Maitland  prepared  to 
continue  the  journey  vi&  Mazar-i-Sharif  and  Sar-i-Pul,  to  rejoin  the 
British  Commissioner,  Sir  Joseph  West  Eidgeway,  on  the  Murghab. 
Accompanied  by  a  Mehmandar  from  Sardar  Ishak  Khan,  the  Governor- 
General  of  Afghan  Turkistan,  Captain  Maitland  proceeded  to  Taskhur- 
ghan,  a  large  town  embedded  in  fruit-trees,  and  possessing  a  fine 
covered  bazaar  of  450  or  500  shops.  Some  distance  out  on  the  plain  to 
the  north  are  mounds  marking  the  site  of  Khulm,  the  capital  of  the 
former  Khan.  It  was  abandoned  by  one  of  the  last  Khans,  as  the  water 
supply  was  liable  to  be  cut  off,  and  Tashkurghan  built  instead  nearer  to 
the  hills.  The  Governor,  a  learned  Ghilzai  named  Purdil  Khan,  called 
on  Captain  Maitland  and  personally  accompanied  him  through  the 
citadel  and  over  the  bazaar.     He  had  known  Sir  Herbert  Edwards  at 


106 


CAPTAIX  MAITLAND^S  AND  CAPTAIK  TALBOTS 


MultAn  in  past  years,  and  had  aLso  lived  at  Lahore.  The  friendly 
hebavionr  of  the  Afghans  was  here  very  strikint^,  and  the  i>eople  oon- 
tinuallj  assured  Captain  Maitlantl  that  the  English  and  the  Afghans 
were  now  one»  and  that  he  was  to  coneider  himself  in  his  own  country. 

Ilero  the  plain  of  Afghan  Tnrkistan  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the 
high  range  already  mentioned.  Its  epnrs  are  ineigniticant  and  the 
great  level  expanse  stretches  almost  from  the  base  of  the  bilia  away 
north  to  the  OxuSj  the  nearest  point  of  which  is  somewhat  less  than 
thirty  mOes  from  Taahkurghan.  The  plain  is  an  alluvial  flat,  resembles 
p  Di-tioBS  of  the  Pan  jab,  and  is  w^atered  here  by  the  Taahkurghan  stream 
run  off  into  irrigation  canals,  but  the  cultivation  does  not  extend  very 
far.  To  the  west  the  plain  is  fertilised  by  the  water  of  the  Band-i-Amir 
which  supplies  eighteen  canals  (nahar)  through  the  whole  tmct  from 
Akcha  nearly  to  Tashkurghan.  On  the  way  to  Mazar-i -Sharif  one 
crosses  the  Abadu  Kotal,  where  Sardar  Muhammad  Jan  and  two  others 
were  put  to  death  by  the  Amir's  ordere  a  few  years  since.  Captain 
Maitland  was  honourably  received  at  Mazar-i-Sbarif,  and  the  day  after 
his  arrival  he  took  a  ride  outside  the  town,  the  country  about  which 
is  very  well  cultivated,  and  is  intersected  with  numerous  irrigation 
ditches.  The  to\vn  is  now  thoroiighly  established  as  the  capital  of 
Afghan  Turkistan,  Balkh  being  at  the  present  day  a  comparatively 
insignificant  place,  quite  unworthy  of  the  prominent  place  it  occupies  on 
most  maps.  Mazar-i*Sharif  is  not  so  large  as  Tashkurghan,  but  is 
increasing  rapidly  in  size  and  has  (juite  outgrown  its  walls,  which  were 
never  more  than  sufficient  to  protect  the  place  from  marauding  Turco- 
mans. It  possesBes  a  citadel  bnilt,  as  usual,  on  a  mound,  and  contains  an 
arsenal  moved  from  Takhtapul,  the  military  cantonment  six  miles  west. 

The  Sardar,  or  Governor-General,  received  Captain  Maitland  and 
later  on  Captai^n  Talbot  with  great  friendliness.  He  is  a  rather  stout, 
good-natured  looking  man  of  seven  or  eight  and  thirty,  is  very  hand* 
Bomely  dressed,  and  affects  all  the  state  of  a  royal  personage.  lie  is  said 
to  be  a  hard* working  administrator,  to  keep  everything  in  good  order, 
to  be  popular  with  the  Afghans,  and  is  everywhere  spoken  of  as  a 
humane  niter. 

Captain  Talbot  quitted  Mazar  by  the  road  going  south  up  the  Band- 
i-Amir  river,  which  enters  the  plain  through  a  gap  in  tho  hill  S.S.W.  of 
Mazar,  the  regular  road  going  in  a  different  direction  through  Balkh 
and  Akcha  to  Shibarghan,  and  thence  to  Sar-i-Pul  and  MaimanaL  The 
country  traversed  along  the  fonner  route  consists  entirely  of  low  grassy, 
but  often  steep-sided  ridges,  running  from  the  high  hills  on  the  south 
to  the  outer  range  on  the  north.  There  are  many  fertile  and  well 
cultivated  valleys  in  this  tract  all  draining  to  the  Sar-i*Pul  stream. 
The  low  ridges,  hills,  and  hillocks  of  light  sandy  soil,  covered  with 
grass  in  spring  and  summer,  are  characteristic  of  Afghan  Turlcistan, 
and  cover  a  great  part  of  its  surface.     They  extend  also  west  of  tho 


JOURHETS  IX  AFGHAKISTAX.  107 

Mnrgliab,  and  merge  into  the  rolling  downs  of  Badgbi&  Dafadar 
Sthibdad  Khan  ascended  the  Band-i-Amir  stream  some  three  marches 
berond  Tnkar,  whidi  was  readied  by  Captain  Maitland.  Some  fifty 
BiikB  of  the  oonrse  ci  the  river  therefore  remain  unexplored,  but 
reliable  infcmnation  about  the  road  has  been  acquired. 

At  Sar-i-Pul  Captain  Maitland  was  very  hospitably  received  by  the 
GovenKflr-Oeneral.  The  town  itself  is  a  mass  of  orchards,  something 
Hba  Tashkoighan,  but  in  a  wide  valley,  surrounded  by  low  hills.  The 
Hamanah  valley  is  well  cultivated  and  populated ;  the  town  is  perhaps 
two-thirds  the  mxe  of  Herat,  and  stands  in  an  open,  cultivated  plain ; 
thers  is  a  large  covered  basaar,  but  the  houses  of  the  iovra  are  vert 
poor,  and  irr^;olarly  distributed  within  the  area  enclosed  by  the  walls. 
Fiom  Maimanah  Captain  Maitland  marched  53  miles  to  Chahar  Sbamba, 
arriving  there  on  the  16th  of  December,  exactly  three  months  since 
leaving  the  headquarters  of  the  Mission  at  Deh  Afghan,  in  the  Herat 
valley. 

Captain  Talbot  in  his  notes  remarks  that  the  Balkh  Ao  runs  in  a 
narrow,  deep  valley,  closely  shut  in  by  precipitous  hills  several  thousand 
feet  higher*  North  and  east  of  it  there  is  a  plateau  rising  gently  north- 
wards for  many  miles,  and  culminating  in  rounded  knolls  about  11,000 
or  12,000  feet  high.  The  edge  of  the  plateau  fetcing  the  river  is 
abruptly  precipitous,  while  beyond  the  culminating  knolls  there  is 
probably  a  pretty  steep  drop  to  the  north.  The  whole  of  the  region 
is  uninhabited,  except  where  the  plateau  is  intersected  by  the  Dara  Isuf. 

The  general  results  of  the  expedition  are  that  the  Herat  triangulation 
has  been  carried  to  Bamian,  and  connected  with  points  in  the  immediate 
neighbourhood  of  those  fixed  by  the  Kabul  triangulation.  It  is  possible 
that  some  point  may  be  found  to  be  common  to  both  surveys,  and  so  afford 
a  check  on  the  work.  From  Bamian  triangulations  have  been  carried 
northward  to  Tashkurghan  and  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  Ma/ar, 
while  points  have  been  fixed  north  of  the  Oxns  and  east  of  Kunduz. 
The  heads  of  the  Hari-rud  and  Balkh  Ao  rivers  have  been  surveyed,  not 
completely,  but  all  the  main  features  have  been  obtained.  The  road 
from  Daulatjar  to  Bamian  has  been  surveyed,  as  also  that  from  Biiuiian 
to  Haibak  and  Tashkurghan,  and  from  Haibak  vi&  Ghori  to  within  two 
marches  of  the  Chahardar  Pass.  All  the  country  overlooked  on  either 
side  the  route  has  been  sketched,  a  total  area  of  about  9000  square  miles 
having  been  surveyed  and  reconnoitred  on  the  one-eighth  inch  scale,  and 
sufficient  points  fixed  trigonometrically  to  determine  the  greater  part  of 
the  Helmand  valley,  a  large  portion  of  the  country  between  the  Balkh 
Ao  and  Tashkurghan  rivers,  and  the  unsurveyed  portion  south  of  the 
OxuB  from  the  meridian  of  Tashkurghan  to  that  of  Khanabad. 


108 


A  JOUEXEY  IK  THE  PEOVINCE  OF  SAN  PAULO,  BRAZIL, 


A  Journey  in  the  Provinee  of  San  Paulo,  Brazil, 
"Sepiember 

Holme. 


in 


July- 


1885. 


ByE. 


Any  interest  which  an  account  of  this  trip,  made  in  the  long  vacation 
of  1885,  may  have  for  memhei^  of  theEoyal  Geographical  ScKJiety,  will 
conftist  not  so  mnch  in  any  new  factia  which  it  may  bring  to  lights  as 
in  showing  that,  however  much  the  science  of  geography  may  be 
neglected  by  the  jiiuior  members  of  the  IlniverHity  of  Oxford  bm  a  stndy, 
yet  the  practical  application  of  the  scienc^e  finds  some  devotees-  The 
primary  objects  of  the  expedition  were  import,  and  the  unequalled  excite- 
ment to  be  produced  by  penetration  into  unknown  lands.  When  we 
started,  we  had  no  idea  to  what  part  of  Brazil  wo  were  actually  direct- 
ing our  steps,  nor  could  we  get  any  definite  information  from  books  or 
from  persons  who  had  been  to  Brazil,  as  to  what  kiud  of  adventures  we 
might  expect  to  encounter.  To  theae  facts  may  be  attributed  the  paucity 
of  results,  from  the  scientific  explorer's  point  of  view,  that  wo  have 
attained.  Wo  had  no  scientific  instruments  whatever  with  us,  except  a 
compass  and  a  field  glasa^  We  had  thought  of  taking  a  photographic 
camera^  bnt  the  discouraging  remarks  of  an  advisor,  who  assured  us 
that  we  should  never  reach  country  that  was  not  Avell  known,  coupled 
with  motives  of  economy  and  a  desire  to  reduce  our  baggage  in  bulk  as 
much  aa  possiblcj  made  us  change  onr  minds ;  and  we  have  never  ceased 
to  regret  it.  The  banks  of  the  Piracicaba  below  the  town,  and  those  of 
the  Tiet^  have  never  been  painted  or  photogi-aphed. 

On  reaching  Eio,  we  found  that  our  friends  there  could  give  us  no 
better  advice  than  the  discouraging  people  at  home :  so  we  shook  the 
dust  off  our  feet,  and  at  5  a.m.  on  July  2Bth  left  Eio  by  train.  The  fares 
w^ere  rathc^r  heavy,  l>ecau&e  they  charged  for  all  luggage  that  went  in 
the  van*  But  after  this  first  journey  we  learnt  by  experience,  and  put 
nearly  all  onr  baggage  under  the  seats  of  the  carriage.  We  bad  a  con- 
siderable amount  of  baggage,  for  wo  had  brought  a  tent  and  canteen  and 
other  requisites  for  camping-out  from  England,  and  had  purchased  a 
large  amount  of  ammunition  in  lUo.  The  price  of  hm  first  class  tickets 
to  San  Paulo  was  58,800  reis :  and  our  baggage  was  charged  24,700  reis. 
The  price  of  one  second  class  ticket  to  San  Paulo  is  15,500.  The  ex-  . 
change  was  rather  low  then,  making  about  50  reis  go  to  the  penny,  or 
la,  8d*  to  the  niilreis,  or  thousand  reis,  whereas  the  milreis  ought  to  be  2«., 
its  par  value.   On  leaving  Kio  wo  had  752,000  reis  with  us,  or  about  60/< 

We  reached  San  Paulo  soon  after  6  p.m.  It  was  here  that  wo  first 
succeeded  in  getting  practical  information  about  the  interior,  which 
decided  us  to  go  to  Piracicaba  on  the  river  of  the  same  name*  The 
journey  from  Son  Pnulo  to  Piracicaba  cost  us  altogether  34,000  reis 


I 
I 


I3k  JCLTSEnEMBSM^  ItSS.  IM 

iirlifc»s  Ittggmge.    Hie  aeoond  cUai  £u«  &om  San  Ftulo  to  Pincicftbik 

Hxacacafaa  is  a  louiBhiiig  town,  mostl j  bnOt  of  blue,  one-€tomd 
hornet  on  ti>e  top  and  stdes  of  a  steep  hill  bek)w  wbidi  flows  tbe 
Anions  nrcr  KmcMmfas.  Tliere  are  two  £uil j  good  liotels^  a  Roman 
CktiioSic  cinizfsil,  a  Protestant  c^nrck,  a  sngar  mill  on  the  north  side  of 
tke  zirec,  and  a  cotton  mill  on  tbo  sonth  mde.  Tliere  are  no  buildings 
m  tim  nortk  side  exo^  tlie  sngar  milL  There  is  a  ytacj  laige  per* 
ffBtsgf^  of  Gennans  in  the  town ;  in  htct  nearly  eveiy  shop  is  kept  by  a 
Gcnmn.  Hie  si^ar  mill  is  managed  by  a  Brazilian ;  the  ootton  mill  is 
■snaged  by  an  Englishman,  assisted  by  a  United  States  Ameiioan* 
This  was  the  only  Englifdiman  we  disooTered  in  the  town,  except  two 
Xanchester  men  who  worked  in  the  ootton  milL  They  had  been  there 
aome  years,  and  sud  they  liked  the  country  Tory  mnch,  as  it  was  never 
ooid. 

At  Ksscicaba  is  a  magnificent  water£alL  From  here  the  riTers  are 
naTigafale  far  canoes  all  the  way  to  the  Farani,  with  the  exception  of 
two  portages^  said  to  be  Tery  easy,  on  the  lower  Tiele. 

There  are  some  small  steamers  whidi  ran  from  Hraoioaba  to  Porto 
de  Len^oes  on  the  Tiet6  when  the  water  is  high  enough,  to  convey  ooffide 
mp  the  river.  When  the  water  is  too  low,  their  place  is  taken  by  small 
iron  barges,  whidi  are  punted  along  at  a  fine  pace  by  about  twelve  men. 
At  intervals  down  the  river  there  are  four  or  five  **  stations,"  where 
wood  is  stored  for  the  steamers,  and  where  people  living  near  the  river 
can  bring  their  coffee  to  be  taken  on  board  the  steamers.  The  stations 
are  mostly  in  charge  of  a  solitary  man. 

At  Itapura,  the  junction  of  the  Tiet6  and  Parani,  is  a  colony  ot 
Bugres  ICansos,  or  tame  Indians,  under  a  Brazilian  governor.  Twice  in 
the  3rear  a  canoe  is  sent  &om  Itapura  to  Piracicaba  conveying  a  despatch 
femi  the  governor,  and  returning  with  stores  for  his  consumption.  The 
journey  takes  about  a  month  each  way.  We  met  this  canoe  on  its  way 
when  we  were  down  the  river. 

Besides  the  steamers  and  barges,  there  is  no  other  kind  of  craft  on 
the  river  except  '*  canoes,"  which  are  dug  out  of  solid  trees,  and  vary 
&om  about  twelve  feet  to  thirty  feet  long.  These  they  punt  up  stream, 
and  generally  paddle  down  stream. 

The  south  bank  of  the  river  at  Piracicaba  is  lined  for  about  half  a 
mile  with  negresses  of  all  sizes,  in  various  degrees  of  nudity,  washing 
clothes.  With  the  exception  of  the  river  men,  who  are  engaged  on  the 
steamers  and  barges,  none  of  the  inhabitants,  it  appeared,  had  ever  been 
down  the  river.  Along  the  south  bank  is  a  row  of  houses  occupied  by 
these  river  men.  The  houses,  consisting  of  two  or  three  rooms,  were 
clean  and  sweet,  and  generally  painted  some  bright  colour  inside,  but 
totally  destitute  of  famiture  or  ornament,  save  for  a  small  table,  a  ohair 
or  two,  and  a  hammock.    The  people  seemed  to  prefer  sitting  on  the 


110  A  JOURNEY  IN  THE  PROVINCE  OF  SAX  PAULO,  BflAZIL,  ^^ 

floor.  With  tlio  help  of  a  Germ  an  shopkeeper,  named  Gottlob,  who 
actctl  as  iuterprctcr*  we  engaged  a  Brazilian  of  the  name  of  Candido 
Camargo  to  be  the  captain  of  the  expedition,  Gottlob  was  snch  a  very 
bad  inteipreter,  that  our  arrangementa  with  Candido  were  of  a  most 
indefinite  kind,  and  we  started  not  qmitc  knowing  what  agreement  had 
been  come  to.  We  paid  100,000  rcis  down,  antl  finally  started  on  August 
4th,  with  four  men  and  a  boy,  some  doga,  and  three  canoes,  two  of  which 
were  tied  together,  the  thii-d  going  separate.  On  otir  return  on  September 
4th,  wo  paid  tbem  272,000  reis  more.  For  this  they  provisioned  us,  though 
we  took  extra  stores  on  our  own  account  to  the  value  of  about  30,000  reis, 
and  tbey  also  provided  ammunition  or  anything  else  which  they  required 
for  their  own  use.  The  provieions  which  they  brought  were  sacks  of 
beans,  farinlia  de  mais,  salt,  sugar,  rice,  coffee,  salt  pork,  and  jerked  beef. 
Our  meale  really  consisted  of  what  wo  shot  or  catight. 

Wo  reached  the  juncture  of  the  Piracicalia  and  Tiete  on  August  lOth, 
and  Porto  de  Leoi^oea  on  the  12th.  1  may  remark  that  in  the  map  ot 
San  l^aulo  which  I  recently  sent  to  the  Royal  Geographical  tSociety,  the 
Pixacicaba  river  is  made  to  join  the  Tiete  too  high  up.  It  really  joins 
the  Tiete  considerably  lower  down,  i.  e.  nearer  to  Porto  de  Lcn9oes.  We 
spent  ten  days  down  the  Tiete,  and  started  back  from  Porto  de  Len^oes 
on  August  23rd,  reaching  Piracieaba  on  September  3rd. 

The  camarctdos  were  very  pleasant,  light-hearted  men,  and  were  ver^^ 
kind  to  us.  Though  we  started  without  knowing  a  word  of  Portuguese, 
they  took  such  trouble  with  us,  that  wo  were  soon  able  to  say  and  under- 
stand as  much  as  ever  we  wanted.  Wo  bad  a  dictionary  with  us.  They 
were  all  Koman  Catholics.  They  worked  very  fairly  bard  at  punting 
and  paddling*  though  hard  work  was  obviously  not  natural  to  them, 

Three  of  them,  including  Candido,  said  they  worked  at  Piracica 
for  a  few  months  in  the  year  as  brick  makers,  and  spent  the  rest  of  th 
time  hunting  and  fishing  on  the  river.  They  had  all  boon  as  far  as 
Lengoes,  except  the  boy :  it  was  the  first  time  be  had  gone  far  down 
the  river. 

The  fifth  man  was  a  regular  backwoods  huntsman,  who  lived  in  the 
forest  some  miles  from  Piracieaba.  He  was  the  owner  of  the  dogs.  He  was 
a  good  shot,  a  wonderful  ventriloquitit,  imitating  the  noises  of  various  birds 
with  remarkable  ability,  and  was  very  agile  in  making  his  way  through 
the  tangled  forest.     Ho  used  flint  ami  steel  in  profereucc  h)  matches. 

They  were  all  keen  upon  sport,  though  their  g^ms,  of  French  or 
German  make,  were  of  the  most  miserable  description.  The  men  all 
smoked  cigarettes;  the  boy  smoked  a  pipe.  They  brought  some  rum, 
but  seldom  appeared  to  drink  any,  and  were  always  8ober<  They  had 
very  poor  appetites,  and  after  a  long  day's  work  Avould  frequently  eat 
nothiDg  more  than  a  plateful  of  rice  and  farinha. 

As  to  the  rivers,  their  general  character  may  well  Ije  compared  with 
portions  of  the  estuary  of  the  Dart,  notably  that  part  called  Shai'pham 


IN  JULY-SEPTEMBER,  1885.  Ill 

Woods ;  or  a  still  better  idea  may  be  got  from  parts  of  the  Teifi,  between 
Eilgerran  Castle  and  Cardigan.  The  denseness  of  the  forest  will  be 
miderstood  when  I  say  that  we  almost  invariably  had  to  cut  dowQ  a 
nnmber  of  trees  to  make  room  for  our  tents,  and  that  we  seldom  had 
occasion  to  use  onr  tent-pegs,  but  merely  tied  the  tent-ropes  to  trees. 

At  a  rough  estimate  I  should  put  the  average  width  of  the  Piracicaba 
at  about  120  yards,  and  that  of  the  TietS  at  about  double.  They  are, 
with  occasional  exceptions,  shallow  enough  to  permit  of  punting. 

There  are  ten  rapids  between  Piracicaba  and  Lengoes ;  none  of  them 
cause  any  trouble  in  going  down  stream,  but  five  of  them  are  difficult  to 
punt  a  loaded  canoe  against.  There  are  [five  lakes  adjoining  the  river, 
three  on  the  north  bank,  and  two  on  the  south.  Three  of  these  are 
little  more  than  marshes;  but  two  of  those  on  the  north  bank  are 
magnificent  sheets  of  water,  one  of  them  being  about  two  miles  long. 

The  two  large  lakes  are  clearly  portions  of  the  river  which  have  at 
some  former  time  been  cut  off  by  a  new  bank  silting  up.  They  all  teem 
with  birds  and  alligators. 

A  few  miles  below  Piracicaba  there  are  some  lofty  peaked  hills :  be- 
yond these  there  is  no  high  land  to  be  seen  all  the  way  to  Len^oes,  with 
the  exception  of  the  high  banks,  which  run  along  nearly  the  whole  way. 

On  the  first  day's  journey  down  stream  from  Piracicaba  we  passed 
three  rapids,  including  the  two  worst  ones  on  the  river. 

While  near  to  Piracicaba  we  passed  occasional  cottages  on  the  bank ; 
but  after  the  first  few  miles  we  saw  no  more  signs  of  life  until  we  came 
to  a  small  house,  on  which  we  encamped. 

On  the  second  day  the  banks  were  especially  high,  and  the  forest 
especially  thick.  A  few  miles  from  the  river  was  a  farmhouse,  which 
was  empty  and  deserted,  the  former  occupant  being  dead.  On  that  day 
we  saw  no  other  houses. 

On  the  third  day  we  encamped  by  a  hut  which  had  been  erected  by 
some  hunters  and  deserted. 

On  the  fourth  day  the  banks  were  lower,  but  the  forest  was  less 
dense.     We  saw  one  cottage  during  that  afternoon. 

On  the  fifth  day  the  banks  were  high  again,  but  with  beautiful  sandy 
beaches  every  mile  or  so ;  and  for  about  a  mile  in  the  middle  of  that 
day's  journey  they  were  of  steep  rock  running  sheer  into  the  water. 
That  day  we  passed  one  of  the  steamer  stations,  and  three  lakes — ^two 
on  the  north  bank,  and  one  on  the  south. 

On  the  sixth  day  we  passed  two  lakes— one  on  the  south  bank  and 
one  on  the  north,  the  latter  being  the  largest  of  all  the  lakes.  We 
passed  no  houses  that  day,  but  stopped  at  night  by  a  deserted  cottage. 

On  the  seventh  day  we  saw  no  houses,  and  reached  the  mouth  of 
the  Piracicaba  during  the  afternoon.  On  that  day  we  passed  two  fierce 
rapids,  the  Piracicaba  fiowing  into  the  Tiete  with  a  rapid  of  about  a 
mile  in  length. 


113 


A  JOURNEY  IX  THE  PROVmCE  OF  SAN  PAULO,  BRAZIL, 


On  the  eighth  day  we  passed  five  rapids,  one  only  being  of  any 
importance^  On  that  day  we  passed  two  or  three  cottages,  and  on  the 
ninth  day  reached  Porto  de  Len^oes.  Below  Porto  de  Len^oes  we  passed 
several  rapids,  but  none  of  any  importanoe. 

The  sport  consists  of  tapir,  deer,  cjapibara^  and  peccary,  all  of  which 
we  got  We  were  nnable  to  get  dogs  for  tigers  (as  they  call  pumas  and 
jaguars),  but  one  night  a  puma  chased  one  of  the  dogs,  and  once,  while 
we  were  peccary  hunting,  one  of  our  dogs  was  killed  by  a  puma.  There 
are  also  ocelots,  ant-eaters,  bngios,  monkeys,  armadillos,  coatis,  pacas, 
hares,  alligators.  A  prepared  tapir-  or  deer-Bkin  can  be  bought  for  about 
2000,  a  capibara  skin  for  about  500.  The  birds  appear  innumerable,  but 
I  may  mention  the  pomba,  bigiia,  uru,  macuque,  Jabu,  wild  geese  and 
ducks,  toucans  of  various  species,  parrots,  parroquets,  humming-birds. 
We  saw  three  or  four  snakes  only,  for  in  winter  thoy  mostly  hibernat*;, 
and  for  the  same  reason  insects  were  no  great  plague.  There  were,  it  is 
true,  carrapatos  (ticks),  mosquitos,  and  **  jiggers,"  but  not  in  sufficiently 
large  numbers  to  be  a  serious  trouble.  Among  the  numerous  fishes 
that  we  caught  I  may  mention  the  dourado,  or  Brazilian  salmon,  the 
maudif  a  scaleless  fish  with  long  feelers,  and  the  cascudot  which  ie  per* 
fectly  black,  and  which  the  men  cooked,  using  its  own  skin  as  a  pot  to 
oook  it  in, 

Jnst  below  Len<^008  was  a  specially  deep  hole,  where  there  were  to 
be  caught  to  any  extent  large  fish  called  snruhim^  not  nnlike  maudi,  hot 
weighing  on  the  average  about  20  lbs.  We  also  caught  one  Jacu,  an 
enormous  brute  of  the  same  kind,  about  5  feet  long.  The  jacu  was  too 
coarse  to  eat,  but  all  the  other  fish  were  excellent.  The  sunibim  were, 
however,  better  dried  than  fresh.  So  we  dried  in  the  sun  all  that  wo 
caught,  and  ate  some  on  the  voyage  up  stream,  selling  what  we  had  over 
at  1000  a  piece. 

At  the  village  of  Porto  de  Len^oes  dwells  a  Brazilian  of  the  name  of 
Cardia,  with  his  wife  and  sister-in-law,  who  insisted  on  lodging  and 
feeding  us  while  we  were  there.  They  were  well-to-do  and  well-educated 
people,  speaking  French  fairly  well.  Senhor  Cardia  keeps  a  shop,  at 
which  everything  imaginable  can  be  bought.  The  house  is  one-storied, 
and  there  is  no  glass  in  the  windows,  which  are  closed  at  night  with 
shutters.  Higher  up  the  bank  was  a  larger  house,  half  built,  belonging 
to  a  brother  of  Cardials.  There  were  only  two  other  houses  in  the  place. 
One  belonged  to  a  man  colled  Louis,  whose  father  had  been  a  Swiss,  and 
who  was  a  professional  i>eecary  hunter.  The  other  house  belonged  to  a 
blacksmith  called  Francisco,  a  married  man,  who  made  little  else  than 
horseshoes  s^ml  ftmces  (instruments  for  cutting  down  the  brushwood  in 
the  fureat).  Ho  had  made  his  anvil  himself,  but  his  vice  had  come  from 
England, 

On  approaching  Piracicaba  I  went  to  see  the  house  where  the  parents 
of  Pedro,  our  cafadoTf  lived.     It  stood  about  two  miles  away  from  tho 


I 
I 


IN  JIJLY-SEPTEMBER.  1885.  113 

north  bank  of  the  river.  Three  huts  stood  in  a  clearing;  two  were 
bams,  the  third  was  the  house,  which  was  built  of  posts  stuck  into  the 
ground  at  intervals  of  four  or  five  inches,  without  any  plaster  or  other 
covering,  so  that  we  could  stand  at  one  end  of  the  house  and  look  right 
through  it  into  the  country  beyond.  It  was,  in  fact,  a  cage,  not  a  house. 
It  consisted  of  three  rooms — a  kitchen,  a  bedroom,  and  a  sitting-room — 
which  only  differed  from  one  another  in  containing  respectively  a 
stove,  a  bedstead,  and  a  couple  of  benches.  The  roof  was  tiiatch ;  the 
floor,  mud;  doors  there  were  none,  not  even  in  the  outer  walls,  but 
merely  gaps. 

The  various  other  cottages  which  we  passed  on  the  river  were  of 
much  the  same  description,  except  that  most  of  them  had  a  certain 
amount  of  mud  plaster  on  the  walls.  It  must  have  been  very  cold  in 
Pedro's  house  on  winter  nights,  for  there  was  generally  a  slight  frost. 
The  days  were  hot,  but  not  as  a  rule  oppressively  so.  As  far  as  the  day 
is  concerned,  we  gathered  that  there  is  little  difference  in  temperature 
between  summer  and  winter.  The  difference  is  felt  in  the  nights,  which 
are  cold  in  winter  and  hot  in  summer. 

The  rapid  change  of  temperature  at  about  9  a.m.  and  6  p.m.  was  verj- 
striking.  There  was  at  night  generally  a  thick  mist,  which  often  did 
not  lift  until  about  9  a.m. 

The  only  product  of  the  district  in  which  any  large  trade  is  done  is 
coffee.  The  country  people  bring  this,  unground,  in  sacks  containing 
five  arrobas  each. 

They  were  paid  20,000  per  sack.  There  is  also  a  certain  amount  of 
maize,  sugar,  and  cotton  produced ;  and  bananas  and  oranges  grow  in 
profusion  where  once  planted,  and  are  for  the  most  part  allowed  to  rot 
on  the  trees,  or  are  given  to  the  pigs. 

It  is  unfortunate  for  the  district  that  the  rivers  flow,  so  to  speak,  the 
wrong  way.  For  this  reason,  I  apprehend,  it  can  never  become  a  timber- 
producing  country.  But  for  conveyance  of  other  products  it  is  very 
conveniently  situated,  a  few  days'  voyage  up  the  river  bringing  the 
product  to  Piracicaba,  which  is  only  two  days  by  railway  from  Kio,  or 
one  day  from  Santos. 

It  is  only  at  the  rapids  that  the  adverse  stream  becomes  a  diffi- 
culty, and  this  may  bo  largely  remedied  by  simple  appliances.  On 
the  bank  just  above  the  worst  rapid  there  is  already  placed  a  large 
windlass,  by  which  boats  coming  up  can  be  hauled  over  the  diffi- 
culty. Windlasses  placed  at  all  the  rapids  would  remove  the  only 
obstructions  to  the  navigation  of  hundreds  of  miles  of  those  magnifioent 
highways. 

We  saw,  no  doubt,  the  sunny  side  of  the  country,  when  the  cold  nights 
kept  down  the  insects  and  the  snakes.  The  malaria,  which  generally 
finds  some  victims  during  the  summer  months,  can  be  avoided  by  the 
simplest  remedies.    It  is  only  the  poverty,  ignorance,  and  slovenliness 


OEOORAPHICAL  NOTEil 


I 


of  tbe  resitletits  that  gives  it  its  opportuiii ty.  For  the  sportsman  the 
count ry  i»  a  jmradise  ;  and  wliether  the  colonist  would  find  it  different, 
I  cannot  Bay, 

GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


Tlie  Emin  Paaka  Eelief  Expeditioii. — Since  our  last  issue  the  plans 
of  this  important  expedition  have  l:>een  completed.  It  is  managed  by  a 
committco  of  private  individuals  sitting  in  London,  and  its  coMmander, 
3Ir.  Stanley,  left  England  on  the  21st  of  January  en  route  for  the  East 
Coast  of  Africa*  Mr*  Stanley's  staff  will  include  six  or  seven  EnropeAns^ 
and  the  route  is  finally  decided  to  be  via  the  Cougo  from  the  West 
Coast,  But  as  the  large  native  force  of  guards  and  porters  has  to  be 
engaged  in  Egypt  and  Eastern  Africa,  the  expedition  will  be  formed  at 
Tj^xmh&x^  and  conveyed  thenee  in  a  fine  steamer  of  2000  tons  round 
the  Capo  of  Good  Hope  to  the  mouth  of  the  Congo.  The  party  includes 
an  accomplishetl  surveyor  and  a  naturalist*  and  tbe  interests  of  science 
will  be  sedulously  cared  for.  Our  Council  have  subscribed  the  sum  of 
1000^.  towards  the  expenses,  with  a  view  to  that  sum  being  applied  in 
aid  of  tbe  geographical  exploration  of  the  country  to  bo  travoi-sed^  and  in 
hope  that  the  results  of  sucli  exploration  may  be  communicated  for 
publication  by  the  Socio t3\ 

Dr*  Oscar  LeEZ  has  arrived  at  Zanzibar,  and  ia  now  on  his  way  to 
Europe.  In  the  new  number  (12  of  Band  xxix.)  of  tbe  '  Mitteilungen  * 
of  the  Vienna  Geographical  Society,  we  find  his  map  of  the  Congo 
between  Stanley  Falls  and  Kasonge,  the  stretch  which,  it  will  be 
remembered,  he  took  fifty  days  to  traverse.  This  map  contains  much 
information  as  to  the  nature  of  the  banks  and  the  people  who  inhabit 
them.  As  Dr.  Lenz*s  last  letter  was  dated  from  the  Upper  Congo,  just 
six  months  ago,  and  as  he  has  no  doubt  stopped  at  various  points  on  the 
route,  his  journey  has  been  comparatively  rapid.  But,  as  an  instance  of 
the  great  advance  in  this  respect  in  recent  years,  we  may  state  that  the 
London  Missionary  Society  has  established  a  uionthly  mail  from  Zan- 
zibar to  their  stations  on  Lake  Tanganyika.  The  mail  caravan  consists 
of  eight  men,  who  perforin  the  journey  bo  rapidly  that  letters  from 
Mr,  Here,  at  Lake  Tanganyika,  are  received  in  England  in  about  three 
months  after  they  are  sent  off.  Through  delays  in  the  transmission  of 
certain  parts  of  the  machinery  Mr.  Ho  re  has  not  yet  been  able  to  com- 
plete the  steamer  be  has  had  on  the  stocks  for  about  three  years* 

The  Mang^anja  and  Yao.— According  to  a  letter  of  tbe  Eev.  A.  Hether* 
wick,  of  Blantyre,  the  Maog'anja  (a  Mang'anja),  otherwise  Maravi,  are 
split  up  into  a  nnmher  of  tribes,  speaking  distinct  dialects.     The  tribes 

with  whoso  languages  the  wnter  is  ucqnaintcd  are  the   following : 

1,  The  Mang^anja  proper,  at  the  foot  of  the  Sbire  Falls,  to  tbe  west  of 
the  Shire.     2,  The  Mbewe,  on  the  lower  Shir^>  near  the  Ruo,     3.  The 


I 


OEOGRAPmCAL  NOT£S.  115 

Shirwa,  sometinies  called  Ngnra  or  Nyanja,  on  the  ifilands  of  Lake  Shirwa 
and  in  a  few  scattered  villages  on  Mount  Zomba.  These  are  the  people 
among  whom  the  first  Universities'  Mission  was  planted,  at  Magomero, 
but  who  were  scattered  by  the  great  Tao  invasion  of  1860-67.  4.  The 
Mbo,  who  once  lived  to  the  west  of  the  Shir6  cataracts,  but  were  driven 
from  their  homes  by  the  Mangoni.  Only  a  remnant  of  them  preserves 
its  independence  by  intrenching  itself  among  the  rocks,  and  keeping  a 
strict  watch  on  all  suspicious  parties  of  the  Mangoni  people.  6.  The 
Chipeta,  who  once  lived  to  the  south-west  of  Nyassa,  but  who  have  been 
destroyed  or  scattered  by  the  Mangoni.  Many  of  them  live  at  Blantyre 
as  slaves  of  the  Yao,  who  bought  them  of  the  Mangoni.  6.  The  Chewa, 
of  the  Tumbuka,  both  to  the  west  of  the  lake.  Their  dialect  much 
resembles  that  of  the  Chipeta. — According  to  the  Eev.  W.  P.  Johnson 
there  are  four  dialects  of  Yao,  viz.  Masaninga,  Machinga,  Amakali,  and 
Mwembe.  To  this  the  writer  would  add  Mangoche,  thus  named  after 
the  Mangoche  Hill,  to  the  south-east  of  the  lake,  whence  the  tribe  were 
driven  in  1860  by  the  Machinga.  Many  of  them  live  now  near  Blantyre. 
Tlie  Machinga  now  occupy  Zomba,  Chikata,  Mponda's,  and  Mkata's  on 
Mangoche  mountain.  The  Lomwe  appear  to  be  a  sub-tribe  of  the  Makua, 
and  the  Anguru,  on  the  eastern  shore  of  Lake  Shirwa,  and  the  Takhwani, 
on  the  road  to  Quilimane,  are  akin  to  them.  The  language  of  the  Quili- 
mane  people  is  known  as  Chuabo.  The  tribes  in  the  Zambezi  delta  speak 
languages  which  seem  to  be  akin  both  to  the  Makua  and  Mang'anja. 
Of  one  of  these,  the  Kwaga,  the  writer  has  prepared  a  vocabulary  and  a 
grammatical  sketch. 

Exploration  of  the  Lokeiy'e. — In  the  new  number  (10  of  Band  xiii.)  of 
the  *  Verhandlungen,'  of  the  Berlin  Geographical  Society,  Lieut.  Tappen- 
heck  describes  his  journey  down  the  Lokenje  river,  the  great  river  which, 
after  joining  the  Kassai,  flows  into  the  Congo  from  the  south.  Lieut. 
Tappenbeck  takes  up  the  story  after  Lieut.  Kund  was  prostrated  froin 
his  wound.  His  people  had  to  make  their  own  canoes,  and  run  the 
gauntlet  of  hostile  natives  most  of  the  way  down  the  river.  In  its 
central  course  it  varies  from  300  to  500  yards  inr  width,  sometimes 
getting  narrower,  and  flowing  between  thickly  wooded  banks.  As  it 
approaches  the  Eassai,  the  forests  recede,  the  river  widens,  and  its 
hanks  become  marshy.  It  is  studded  with  muddy  islands,  and  in  its 
lower  course  swarms  with  hippopotami,  its  banks  abounding  in  bird- 
life— geese,  storks,  pelican,  flanungoes,  ibises,  and  many  other  varieties. 
The  language  of  the  people  met  with  was  quite  unintelligible  to  the 
natives  who  accompanied  Lieut.  Tappenbeck. 

Deep-sea  Soundings  off  the  Horwegian  Coast. — In  consequence  of  the 
continuous  stormy  weather  prevailing  last  summer  and  autumn  on 
the  west  coast  of  Norway,  the  deep-sea  soundings  carried  on  there  were 
somewhat  curtailed.     However,  last  year  a  triangle,  extending  from 


116 


GEOGEAPmCAL  NOTES. 


Skoinvaer  ninety  Norwegian  geographical  miles  to  f^ea  and  up  under  tho 
Lofuclen  Islands,  was  Bounded,  and  it  waa  found  that  the  **  bank  ** 
referred  to  in  tho  'Proceedings/  1386,  p,  724,  approaches,  as  was 
anticipated,  tlie  shore  further  northward,  so  that  west  of  SkomA'a^r  it 
lies  ninety  Norwegian  geographical  miles  from  the  shore,  but  west  of 
AndensBs  only  30  to  36  nxilee.  An  it  was  impossible  to  extend  the 
fionndings  so  far  norths  the  bank  has  therefore  not  3'et  been  charted. 
But  from  previous  sonndings  it  appears  that  at  Andenttjs  it  lies  only 
a  few  mOes  off  the  shore,  and  that  the  depth  sinks  from  some  seventy 
fathoms,  somewhat  abruptly,  to  about  400  fathoms.  West  of  Skomvaer 
the  depth  falls  Bnddenly  from  150  to  some  300  fathoms.  It  appears, 
therefore,  that  a  bank  far  larger  than  the  so-Galled  "  Storeg "  by 
Aalesnnd  has  been  discovered,  andj  it  is  anticipated,  one  which  will  be 
equally  important  to  the  cod  fisheries.  Captain  Fabritius,  the  leader 
of  the  expedition,  intends  provisionally  to  make  an  addendum  to  the 
existing  charts,  on  which  will  be  drawn  that  part  of  the  bank  which 
has  been  measured*  About  aix  miles  west  of  SkomTaar,  a  shoal  was 
found  where  the  depth  was  only  30  feet  of  water. 

Laie  BalkasL— The  foUowiDg  notes  on  some  of  the  geographical  re- 
sults of  explorations  of  MM.  Krasnoff  and  Ignatief  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Lake  Balkash  are  taken  from  the  current  number  of  Petermann's 
*  Mitteilungen,*  The  river  Kara-esu  marked  on  existing  maps  does  not 
exist ;  it  has  been  confounded  with  the  river-bed  of  the  Kara-ssai,  which 
is  dry  throughout  the  year.  The  streams  of  the  At-Lessken  range 
have  long  been  dry.  The  most  important  points  of  the  Chu-Ili  chain 
are  the  Andrakai  and  E  an -Tan,  from  which  other  spurs  shoot  off.  The 
water  of  the  river  Hi  is  being  diverted  to  the  eastern  arms  of  the  delta ; 
the  westeni  channels  have  become  mere  pools  of  standing  water.  For 
three  years  the  water  in  the  main  stream  has  not  overflowed,  while  the 
Kuril  arm  of  the  delta  is  becoming  filled.  The  Kamau  country  is  rich 
in  woods  and  reed-banks.  The  Kirghises  sow  millet  when  the  Hi  over- 
flows; where  the  lakes  have  receded  they  sow  wheat.  Between  the 
desert  of  Kurgan-Kum  and  the  mountains  lies  a  level  steppe.  The 
desert  of  Tau-Kura  can  be  traversed  in  all  directions.  Many  routes  are 
known  to  the  Kirghises,  along  which  in  the  spring  good  water  can  be 
found.  MM,  Krasnofi*  and  Ignatief  have  recently  discovered  in  the 
Khan-Tengri  group  a  now  glacier  called  the  Mushketof,  Tvhich  exceeds 
in  size  the  well-known  Ssmenof  glacier. 

Indian  Survey  Frogramme  of  Current  Seaaon.— The  work  of  the  Survey 
of  India  during  the  present  field  season  cotiHista  of  the  folio  wing  operations  i- — 

Trigonomxtn(M  Branch. — Owing  to  tlie  paucity  of  officers  available  for  field 
jiartiea,  the  electro- tclftgraphic  oiTerationa  for  determination  of  longitudes  carried  on 
last  year  are  anspendedj  and  one  officer  h  being  employed  instead  to  take  astra- 
nomical  observations  for  latitudes  from  Jubbalpore  to  Matlras,  A  party  iire 
extending  a  aeries  of  iecondary  triangles  along  the  Madrid  coast  from  the  Eistna 


OEOOIUPHICAL  NOTES. 


117 


» 


I 


• 


I 


rirer  aouihward,  aod  crectiBg  bratcong,  &c,  for  the  marine  surveyors.  Tidal  obser. 
vitiaiu  «r«  being  token  at  tigliteen  ports,  aad  linens  of  spirit-levels  will  be  carried 
fitna  aerenil  ports  connecting  them  with  tnansulation  stations,  so  as  to  get  as  correct 
a  vtfiie  as  possible  for  tbe  heights  of  the  latter. 

Topographical   SuiTcys.^The  party  which   bas   6ni&hed   the   survey  of  the 
Andamans  was  under  ordera  for  Upper  Burma,  but  owing  to  the  disturbed  Btata 
of  that  country  hap  proceeded  to  survey  the  Nicobar  Islands,  a  task  which  it  is 
iDticipttted  will  occupy  one  field  season.     The  Baluchistan  party  wa.i  considerably 
strengtliened  during  last  season,  owing  to  urgent  demands  of  the  military  autho- 
filie*  for  ipedal  large  scale  surveys,  and  was  employed  on  surveys  on  the  two*mch 
scale  in  the  Kwaja  Amran  range  and  neighbourhood  of  Quetta.     It  is  now  resuming 
the  general   survey  of   Baluchistan  on   the    half-inch    scale   in  continuation   oi 
preriotjs  work.     Another  enrvej  now  completed  is  that  of  Cutch,  and  the  jiarty 
Iat«ly  engaged  there,  as  well  as  that  recently  eniijloyed  in  South  Deccan,  will  bo 
traosferred  to  revenue  survey  work  in  the  Central  Provinces.    The  Gujerat  iwrty 
will  be  split  up  into  two,  one  to  continue  the  Gujerat  survey  on  the  two-inch  scale, 
and  the  other  to  survey  the  forest  reserves  in  the  Thana  Collectorate  on  the  eight- 
inch  scale.     During  the  autumn  and  early  summer  mouths  the  Oimalayaii  party 
were  to  operate  in  the  Knlu  and  other  hill  States  about  Simla,  and  in  Kangra  during 
the  winter  and  spring,  returning  to  recess  quarters  for  the  monsoon  months.    Captain 
Hobday,  who  has  lieea  surveying  the  Andamans,  has  joined  the  trooj^s  in  Upper 
Burma,  and  with   the  aid  of  an   assistant  superintendent  and  a  few  European 
aurveyora,   is   engaged    on    such    survey   work  as  the   militarj-  movements   will 
render  feasible.     The  completion  of  the  Mysore  survey  enables  the  imrty  which  has 
been  working  there  for  many  years  to  undertake  the  topographical  survey  of  the 
Madras  Presidency,  an  important  task,  to  which  reference  was  made  in  a  previous 
nnmber  of  the  *  Proceedings,'     Raj pu tana  is  still   far   from   completed,  but  the 
presMng  needs  of  the  Baluchistan  survey  have  necessitated  the  former  party  being 
transferred  to  the  latter  region,  where  it  will  co-operate  with  Baluchiatan  party  No.  1. 
The  South  Mahmtta  survey  party  will  be  divided  into  two  sections,  one  for  forest 
rcMTvea  and  the  other  for  topography,  of  which  an  area  of  more  than  25,000  squoro 
mikst  Including  Qaa,  avvaltn  completion.     For  the  im|K)rtant,  but  technical  class  of 
"work  known  as  Eevenue  surveys,  which  include  in  some  instances  cadastral  or  field 
hy  field  surveys,  thirteen  parties  are  assigned   to  the  following  localities: — Akyab, 
Baati,  Btlaapur,  Gorakhpur^  Jubhulpore,  Kamrup,  Miizaffarpur,  Punjab  (Guidaspur, 
Amritsar,  and  Shahpur  districts),  Kaipur,  Sambalpur,  Saugor,  Seoui,  aud  Ghind- 
wara. 

JVW  Survetf  <f  Calcutta, — This  much  needed  want  is  shortly  to  be  undertaken. 
The  last  survey  was  made  by  Mr.  Simma,  c.e.,  ia  the  years  1847-49.  It  was 
purely  topographical,  aud  not  only  was  no  register  of  owners  or  occupiers  prepared > 
but  no  demarcation  of  the  Government  holdings  was  attempted,  and  nothing  was 
then  done  to  ascertain  the  jiarties  responsible  to  Govtrnmeot  for  the  revenue.  This 
vaa  subsequently  done  by  Mr.  Hey  sham  in  1851,  and  took  five  years  to  accomplish, 
but  during  the  past  thirty  years  many  changes  have  taken  place  and  the  wurk 
requirea  revision.  The  new  stirvoy  is  also  necessary  for  municipal  purposcB,  for 
Mr.  Simms^a  survey  was  plotted  on  the  scale  of  100  feet  to  an  inch,  which  in  too 
iraaall.  The  new  survey  is  to  be  on  the  scale  of  50  fet- 1  to  the  inch,  and  will  include 
all  road%  footpaths,  build  in  ga,  and  drainage  works,  and  other  necessary  details, 

Biuaian  Expedition  to  tlie  New  Siberian  Islands.— We  learn  that  a 
telegram  has  recently  been  received  by  the  Ru&dan  Acaderaj  of 
Science  annonncing  the  complete  success  of  tbig  expeditioCj  under  the 

No.  n.— Fkb.  1887.]  s 


118 


GEOGRAPHICAL  KOTES. 


leadership  of  Bn  Bunge  and  Baron  von  Toll,  and  the  retnm  of  the 
travellers  to  the  mainland  about  the  end  of  October  last.  The  news 
at  present  to  hand  is  very  meagre,  but  it  appears  that  operations  were 
commenced  in  the  spring  by  the  deapatch  of  a  stock  of  provisions  and  a 
boat  to  the  island  of  Kotelny,  the  outward  journey  being  accomplished 
in  thirteen  days  and  the  return  in  three.  On  2S)th  April  Baron  von  Toll 
set  out  for  the  island  of  Ljaohow,  with  the  object  of  examining  the 
island  before  the  arrival  of  the  bulk  of  the  party,  who  followed  later, 
under  the  superinti&ndence  of  Dr.  Bunge.  In  the  summer  the  two 
leaders  separated,  Baron  von  Toll  spending  the  greater  portion  of  his  time 
on  the  island  of  Kotelny,  wliile  his  eompanion  made  a  thorough  explora- 
tion of  the  island  of  Ljachow*  Earlier  in  the  year  they  had  explored  in 
company  five  islands.  In  view  of  the  very  important  result s  which 
may  confidently  be  expected  from  this  expedition,  we  await  witli 
interest  the  pnblication  of  fuller  details. 

The  Muir  Glacier,  Alaska. — To  the  *  American  Jotinaal  of  Science  *  for 
January,  Mr.  G.  Frederick  Wright  contributes  an  account  of  his  own 
investigations  of  the  Muir  Glacier  of  Alaska,  one  of  the  largest  glaciers 
in  the  world.  It  enters  an  inlet  of  the  same  name  at  the  head  of 
Glacier  Bay.  Alaska,  in  lat.  58°  50'  N.,  long.  136°  40'  W.  Glacier  Bay 
is  a  body  of  water  about  30  miles  long  and  from  8  to  12  miles  wide  (but 
narrowing  to  about  three  miles  at  its  upper  end)  projecting  in  a  north- 
west direction  from  the  east  shore  of  Cross  Sound.  Near  the  mouth  of 
Glacier  Baj  is  a  cluster  of  low  islands,  named  Beardslee,  twenty-five  to 
thirty  of  them,  compoaed  of  loose  material,  evidently  glacial  debris,  and 
in  striking  contrast  to  most  of  the  islands*  and  shores  in  gonth-eastom 
Alaska.  These,  like  the  other  land  to  the  south,  are  covered  with 
forest,  whereas  the  islands  and  shores  in  the  upper  part  of  the  bay  are 
entirely  devoid  of  forest,  having  no  doubt  recently  been  covered  with 
glacial  ice.  The  upper  end  of  the  bay  is  divided  into  two  inlets  of 
unequal  length,  the  eastern  one  being  Mnir  Inlet,  a  little  over  three 
miles  wide  at  its  month,  and  extending  to  the  north  about  the  same 
distance,  narrowing  at  the  upper  end  to  a  little  over  one  mile,  where  it 
is  interrupted  by  the  front  of  the  Muir  Glaoier.  The  monntain  on  the 
east  side  of  Muir  Inlet  is  2900  feet  high,  that  on  the  west  3150, 
lieing  to  about  5000  two  or  three  miles  baek»  The  base  of  those  moun- 
tains, metamorphic  slate,  is  so  much  contorted,  that  Mr.  Wright  found 
it  impossible  to  ascertain  their  system  of  folds.  The  width  of  the  ico 
where  the  glacier  breaks  though  between  the  mountains  is  10,C64  feet, 
a  little  over  two  miles,  though  the  actual  water-front  is  only  one  mile. 
This  front  terminates  in  an  angle  projecting  about  a  c^uarter  of  a  mile 
below  the  north-east  and  north-west  corner  of  the  inlet.  The  depth  of 
the  w*ater  300  yards  aotith  of  the  ice-front  is  516  feet,  and  the  height  of 
the  ice  at  the  extremity  of  the  angle  in  the  middle  of  the  inlet  250  feet, 
with  perpendicular  front.    Further  back  it  rises  to  300  aud  400  feet,  the 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  119 

sarfaoe  of  the  glacier  rising  to  the  east  and  north-east  about  100  feet  to 
the  mile.  On  going  ont  in  that  direction  on  the  ice,  seven  miles,  Mr. 
Wright  fonnd  himself  1050  feet  above  the  bay.  The  main  body  of  the 
glaoier  oconpies  a  vast  amphitheatre  with  diameters  ranging  from  thirty 
to  forty  miles.  Nine  main  streams  of  ice  unite  to  form  the  grand  trunk, 
ooming  from  all  directions,  and  no  less  than  seventeen  sub-branches  were 
seen  coming  in  to  join  the  main  streams  from  the  mountains  near  the  rim 
of  the  amphitheatre.  Numerous  rocky  eminences  rise  above  the  surface 
of  the  ice,  their  surfaces  smoothed  and  scored,  and  glacial  debris  deposited 
everywhere  upon  them,  showing  they  have  been  recently  covered  by  ice. 
On  the  side  from  which  the  ice  approached  these  islands,  it  rose  like 
breakers  from  the  sea-shore,  several  hundred  feet  higher  than  it  was  on 
the  lee  side.  The  lee  side  of  these  islands  seemed  to  be  the  beginning  of 
important  sub-glacial  streams  of  water,  brooks  running  into  the  de- 
pression as  into  a  funnel,  and  causing  a  backward  movement  of  ice  and 
moraine.  The  ice  in  the  eastern  half  of  the  amphitheatre  is  moving 
much  more  slowly  than  in  the  western  half.  Here  and  there  the  sur- 
face is  interrupted  by  superficial  streams  of  water,  occupying  narrow 
ahaUow  channels,  running  for  a  short  distance  and  then  plunging  down 
into  moultns  to  swell  the  larger  current.  From  the  front  there  is  a 
constant  succession  of  falls  of  ice  into  the  water.  From  the  measure- 
ments and  observations  made  by  Mr.  Wright,  it  would  seem  to  follow 
that  a  stream  of  ice  presenting  a  cross  section  of  about  3,500,000  square 
feet  (5000  feet  wide  by  about  700  feet  deep)  is  entering  the  inlet  at  an 
average  rate  of  forty  feet  per  day,  making  about  140,000,000  cubic  feet 
per  day  during  the  month  of  August.  The  indications  that  the  Muir 
Glacier  is  receding,  and  that  its  volume  is  diminishing,  are  indubitable 
and  numerous.  On  the  other  hand,  near  the  south-west  comer  of  the 
glacier,  the  streams  are  uncovering  a  forest  of  cedar  trees  in  perfect 
preservation,  standing  upright  in  the  soil  as  they  grew,  with  the  humus 
all  about  their  roots. 

Sources  of  the  Mississippi. — In  connection  with  the  notice,  in  our  last 
month's  issue,  of  Mr.  Harrower's  pamphlet  on  Captain  Glazier  and  his 
lake,  it  deserves  notice  that  in  tracing  the  history  of  the  exploration 
of  the  sources  of  the  river,  he  altogether  omits  to  mention  the  visit  of 
Mr.  Featherstonehugh  in  1835,  as  described  in  his  '  Canoe-voyage  on  the 
Minnay  Soter,'  what  was  then  named  the  Minnesota  being  regarded  as 
the  main  stream  of  the  Mississippi.  Featherstonehugh  spent  some  time 
in  the  district,  visiting  Lake  Travers  or  Pamidji,  which  he  wrongly 
thought  sent  its  waters  northwards.  While  wandering  about  the  ridge, 
or  rather  plateau,  called  the  Coteau  de  Prairie,  Featherstonehugh 
looked  down  upon,  but  could  not  approach  what,  from  his  map,  was 
evidently  Lake  Itasca,  which  is  recognised  as  at  least  the  approximate 
source  of  the  river.  Of  course  he  was  not  the  first  to  visit  this  lake, 
which  was  seen  and  surveyed  by  Lieut.  Allen  in  1832, 

K  2 


120 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES, 


German  New  Guiuea,^The  opcniog  up  of  Kaiser  Wilhelm's  Land 
will  l>e  greatly  facilitated  by  a  journey  made  by  Admiral  von  Schleiaitz 
and  Dr.  Schrader  up  the  Empress  Augusta  riven  This  iraj>ortant  water- 
way»  Bituated  close  to  tlie  western  border  of  the  country  under  the  Gorman 
Protectorate,  was  navigated  by  the  Admiral  in  the  steamer  Otiilie  for  < 
a  distance  of  224  nailes.  Further  progress  could  not  be  madoj  owing 
to  the  shallowness  of  the  river,  the  journey  having  been  undertaken 
during  the  dry  season.  Tho  ship*s  steam  launch,  however,  proceeded 
112  miles  furtlier  to  a  point  situated  in  4'  16'  S,  lat.  and  141'*  50'  E, 
long*  Judging  from  the  quantity  of  water  in  the  river,  the  voyage 
could  have  been  continued  for  another  50  miles,  but  fuel  ran  short. 
For  over  200  miles  from  its  mouth  the  river  flows  through  extensive 
plains ;  then  ite  course  suddenly  ehangeS;,  and  it  assumes  the  character 
of  a  mountain  stream,  forcing  its  w^ay  through  hills  of  gneiss,  mica- 
slate,  and  quartz,  but  the  velocity  of  its  current  remains  uniform. 
Thirty  miles  further  up,  tho  river  again  resumes  its  peaceful  course. 
The  settlements  on  its  banta  were  only  found  at  long  intervals.  The 
level  plains  of  the  country  offer  great  facility  for  pasture  and  for  the 
cultivation  of  rice,  sugar-cane,  itc.  Fuller  details  of  thit*  interesting 
voyage  will  be  found  in  part  Xo.  4  of  the  *  Naohrichten  liber  Kaiser 
Wilhelm's  Laud'  (188(5> 

The  longest  Rivers  in  the  World* — The  latest  contribution  on  this 
controversial  subject  is  a  communication  made  to  *  Petermann's  Mittei- 
lungen,'  by  Major-General  A,  von  Tillo,  of  the  Russian  Staff*  He  gives  in 
a  table,  with  notes,  the  following  estimates  of  the  eight  longest  rivers  of 
the  world— (1)  Missouri-Mississippi,  4104  miles;  (2)  Nile,  4020;  (3) 
Yang-tsze-Kiang,:3l58  ;  (4)  Amazons,  30C3  ;  (5)  Yenisei-Selenga,  2950  ; 
(6)  Amur,  2920  ;  (7)  Congo,  2883  ;  (8)  Mackenzie,  2868.  He  takes  the 
length  of  the  Missouri -Mississippi  from  the  '  Beport  upon  tho  Physics  and 
Hydraidics  of  the  Mississippi  River,*  by  Captain  A.  S.  IIumphreyH  and 
Lieutenant  H.  A.  Abbot,  and  the  measurement  of  the  Nile  from  Perthes* 
new  map  of  Africa.  General  Tillo*8  data  for  the  length  of  the  AmaEona 
is  the  map  of  South  America,  published  by  njin  in  St.  Petersburg,  and 
prepared  by  General  N.  Kaulbara,  on  scale  1 :  6,300,000  ;  the  length  being 
reckoned  from  the  source  of  the  Maranon  to  the  island  of  Bailikwe. 
The  length  of  the  Yenesei-Selenga  is  calculated  from  the  llussian  Staff 
raiip,  on  scale  1 :  4,200,000,  of  the  Russian  dominiona  in  Asia.  The  prin- 
cipal difference  l^etween  the  above  list  and  that  of  M.  C.  A,  v.  Eloders, 
published  in  the  sixth  part  of  the  *Zeit8chrift '  of  the  Geographical 
Society  of  Berlin,  is  the  length  of  the  Missouri-Mississippi,  which  the 
latter  gives  as  3658  miles. 

The  British  Association  Committee  on  Geographical  Education.  —  It 
will  be  remembered  that  at  the  Binningham  meeting  of  the  British 
AsBOciati'on,  a  committee  was  appointed  **  for  the  purpose  of  co-operating 


CORRESPONDENCE.  121 

with  the  Boyal  Geographical  Society  in  endeavouring  to  bring  before 
the  authorities  of  the  Universities  of  Oxford  and  Cambridge  the  advisar 
bility  of  promoting  the  study  of  geography  by  establishing  special 
chairs  for  the  purpose."  A  meeting  of  the  committee  was  recently  held, 
at  which  were  present  Mr.  Yemen  Harcourt  and  Professor  Moseley  from 
Oxford,  Professor  Hughes  from  Cambridge,  the  Rev.  Canon  Carver,  the 
Eev.  E.  F.  M.  McCarthy  (Birmingham),  and  Mr.  E.  G.  Ravenstein.  We 
are  happy  to  say  that  the  members  of  the  committee  fully  recognised 
the  educational  value  of  the  scientific  study  of  geography,  and  are 
agreed  in  thinking  that  geography  should  occupy  a  place  among  the 
subjects  of  study  in  our  national  universities.  They  resolved  to  request 
the  Council  of  the  Association  to  give  their  support  to  the  representa- 
tions and  o£fers  which  have  been  made  by  the  Council  of  the  Society. 
The  members  of  the  committee  not  present  concur,  we  believe,  in  the 
resolutions  come  to.  They  are  Prof.  A.  Newton,  Professor  Bonney,  Canon 
Tristram,  Rev.  H.  B.  George,  Rev.  A.  R.  Vardy,  Rev.  H.  W.  Watson, 
Captain  Douglas  Galton. 

Aaran  Oeographical  Society.— Under  the  title  of '  Femschau,'  we  have 
received  the  first  number  of  the  •  Jahrbuch '  of  the  Aarau  Qeographico- 
Commercial  Society.  It  contains,  among  other  matter,  two  original 
papers  of  some  interest ;  one  describing  the  visit  of  a  Basel  missionary 
to  Kumassi  in  Ashanti,  in  1881,  and  the  other  a  brief  paper  advocating 
reform  in  geographical  education,  by  Dr.  Hermann  Braunhofer. 


CORRESPONDENCK 

On  the  Teaching  of  Geoffraphy. 

Hayikq  lately  read  with  very  great  interest  the  Educational  Eeport  of  the  Koyal 
Geographical  Society,  1  am  inclined  to  think  that  a  few  remarks  by  one  who  has 
had  considerable  experience  in  teaching  this  subject  may  not  be  unwelcome.  My 
remarks  will  apply  principally  to  provincial  grammar  schools  and  others  of  that 
standard. 

First,  as  to  the  faults  to  be  found  in  the  present  system.  I  consider  the  greatest 
of  these  to  be  the  too  great  importance  attached  to  what  is  usually  called  political 
geography,  which,  in  reality,  is  nothing  but  the  learning  by  heart  of  the  positions 
of  a  great  number  of  towns,  the  larger  proportion  of  which  are  of  very  little  general 
interest,  and  those  things  for  which  they  are  celebrated,  the  most  worthless  trash 
often  being  included  in  this  latter  category.  No  reason  is  ever  given  for  the  accumu- 
lation  of  towns  in  certain  districts,  or  for  the  greater  richness  and  prosperity  of  one 
town  more  than  another,  matters  which  are  generally  within  the  comprehension  of 
any  child. 

Then,  a^in,  the  physical  features  of  a  country,  on  which  everything  else 
depends,  and  which  are  therefore  the  most  important,  are  really  scarcely  touched  on 
atalL  The  more  conspicuous  headlands,  inlets,  mountains,  and  rivers  are  just 
mentioned,  and  no  general  idea  of  the  lie  of  the  land  or  of  the  nature  of  the  surface 
soil  is  given.    The  description  of  perhaps  the  most  important  factor  of  all— rclimate — 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


i«  given  in  a  few  big-sou Bxling  words  beyond  Uie  comprelicnsion  of  most  cliildren> 
and  110  ruGDtioQ  is  made  of  tbo  why  or  wherefore,  which  is  just  what  the  childkh 
mind  is  constaotly  inquiring  after. 

But  perhnpH  the  greate»t  fault  of  all  in  the  modem  system  h  leRrning  by  heart 
all  tbat  is  in  the  usually  very  bad  text-book  without  the  doe  use  of  the  atlas.  Most 
teachers  will  probably  tell  their  pupils  to  refer  constaotly  to  the  atlas,  but  how 
many  pupiis  do  so  refer  to  it?  UnJess  the  lesson  is  prepared  under  keen  superviaion 
I  fear  in  the  majority  of  caaea  the  atlas  is  never  looked  at.  And  why?  Simply 
because  the  [>upil  does  not  know  how  to  read  a  map,  and  it  therefore  becomes  a  very 
uninteresting  object  to  him.  And  very  naturally  so.  We  could  none  of  us  feel 
interested  in  a  book  placed  liefore  ns  if  it  were  written  in  an  unintelligible  language, 
!  think  it  would  be  a  very  good  thing  if,  in  the  caee  of  younger  children,  tlio  text- 
Ixjok  were  abolished  altogether,  and  they  were  taught  solely  by  lectures,  or  rather 
talks. 

I  would  in  every  case  li>egtn  with  a  course  of  physical  geography,  together  with 
a  certain  amount  of  mathemalical,  explaining  everything  by  references  to  phenomena 
of  local  occurrence,  so  far  as  is  possible.  The  physical  geography  should  be  largely 
illustrated  by  experiments,  the  simpler  and  more  homely  the  better,  and  it  would 
be  a  very  good  thing  to  give  a  few  lessons  in  physics,  illustrating  the  general  pro- 
sier tics  of  solids,  liquids,  and  gases** 

Instea*]  of  large  and  expensive  wall-maps,  generally  of  a  very  inferior  description, 
outline  maps,  drawn  on  the  blackboard  and  filkd  in  as  the  lesson  proceeds,  would 
be  better.  If  it  is  object^jd  to  this,  that  it  takes  up  too  much  of  the  teacher's  time 
in  drawing  ati  outline  before  those  lessons  in  which  the  outline  is  not  treated  of  can 
start — then  have  perm^mcnt  outlines  drawn  in  |>aint  on  American  cloth.  These  can 
be  rolled  up,  and  then  occupy  little  space  when  put  away.  The  clotli  takes  chalk 
exceedingly  well.  With  this  and  a  supply  of  coloured  chalks  much  really  valuable 
work  can  be  done  st  very  little  cost.  As  the  teacher  goes  from  one  subject  to 
another,  the  pupil  can  follow,  filling  in  a  blank  map  on  i^aper  placed  before  him*  It 
will  keep  him  attentive  and  interested  from  beginning  to  end,  and  the  lesion  will  he 
a  source  of  pleasure  to  teacher  and  pupil  alike — at  least,  so  I  have  found  it,  I  should 
Ktart  first  wnth  the  outline,  and  fill  in  the  mountains  and  rivers,  not  forgetting  to 
draw  sections  in  various  directions  across  the  country.  Then  take  the  meteorology, 
next  the  forest,  arable,  pasture,  and  waste  lands,  and  the  distribution  of  minerals. 
Finally,  the  distribution  of  industries,  bringing  in  the  most  important  towns, 
followed  by  the  ethnology  and  political  divisions. 

In  tlie  next  place  there  ought  to  be  large  numbers  of  pictures.  If  the  class  is 
large  the  lantern  should  be  used,  but  if  small,  woodcuts  and  photographs  would  do* 
In  this  province  I  think  the  Society  might  do  most  useful  work  by  publishing  illns- 
trations  typical  of  the  scenery,  inhabitants,  animals,  and  plants  of  various  districts, 
and  if  in  addition  actual  specimens  of  the  products  could  be  obtained »  it  would 
indeed  be  teaching  in  clover.  At  present  it  is  only  possiblo  tooblai^n  illustrationa 
from  a  vast  number  of  books,  and  these  have  then  to  be  photographed,  or  copied  in 
son>e  other  way,  if  a  permanent  coilectlon  is  desiroii,  and  the  cost  becomes  consider- 
able even  when  the  teacher  can  copy  them  himself.  Where  space  can  be  procured  a 
room  ought  to  be  set  apart  for  these  collections*  In  large  towns  specimens  might 
13erhai>8  to  a  large  extent  be  lx>rrowed  from  the  local  musoums. 

I  am  inclined  to  think  that  it  is  a  national  disgraco  that  we  have  not  a  museum, 


I 


*  I  should,  if  the  Society  thought  fit^  be  glad  to  communicate  a  series  of  papers  on 
Pliysicfl  and  Chemistry  as  applied  to  Geography,  using  in  all  cases  the  simplest  possiblo 
appaiatufl. 


OBITUARY.  123 

or  even  a  department  of  one,  entirely  devoted  to  geography,  in  which  models,  maps, 
aectionf,  photographs,  and  specimens  are  all  exhibited  under  the  hesuSis  of  their  own 
particalar  districts.  If  such  could  be  formed — ^and  ours  certainly  ought  to  be  the 
aation  to  do  it,  considering  we  have  colonies  and  settlements  in  every  quarter  of 
the  globe — it  would  vastly  further  the  cause  of  geographical  education. 

With  r^ard  to  mathematical  geography,  so-called,  it  is  usually  taught  in  a 
most  slipshod  manner,  and  I  believe  there  is  a  generally  prevailing  impression  that 
it  is  too  hard  for  children  of  nine  and  ten.  My  experience  shows  me  that  it  is  per- 
fectly possible— even  with  no  apparatus  except  a  rough  home-made  blank  globe — to 
get  them  to  understand  latitude  and  longitude,  the  seasons,  and  phenomena  of  day 
and  night  thoroughly.  Then  map  projections  can  generally  be  explained  by  the  aid 
of  diagrams.  As  to  the  correct  reading  of  a  map — so  far  as  the  parallels  and 
meridians  go— why  should  the  pupil  not  be  made  to  draw  a  map  on  a  blank  projec- 
tion from  a  copy  made  on  another?  He  certainly  ought  to  fix  the  position  of  places 
accurately  on  a  blank  map  when  only  the  latitude  and  longitude  are  given. 

In  conclusion,  it  seems  to  me  a  great  pity  that  geography,  as  a  school  subject,  is 
not  taught  as  a  science  by  the  science  master,  rather  than  by  classical  men,  who 
larely  have  any  aptitude  for  the  work,  except  perhaps  willingness.  It  must  bo 
g^erally  admitted  that  physical  geography,  or  physiography,  dealing  as  it  does 
with  all  those  natural  phenomena  which  come  most  generally  under  everyday 
observation,  is  well  calculated  to  develope  the  observing  and  thinking  faculties  of 
the  youthful  mind,  much  more  so  than  the  very  meagre  smattering  of  chemistry 
or  physics  which  a  boy  or  girl  generally  acquires  at  school,  and  therefore  let  it  be 
the  child's  first  introduction  to  the  study  of  nature. 

W.  Hheam,  B.80., 
University  College,  Liverpool,  late  Assistant  Master  in  Queen  Elizabeth's 

January  18th.  Grammar  School^  Wimbame, 


Sir  T.  Donglas  Forsyth,  KC.S.I.,  C.B.*— The  late  Sir  Thomas  Douglas 
Forsyth,  whose  recent  death,  at  the  age  of  fifty-nine,  has  been  deeply  felt  and  deplored 
bjavery  wide  circle  of  relatives  and  friends,  and  who  was  so  well  known  as  a  distin- 
guished member  of  the  Civil  Service  in  India,  whom  we  shall  speak  of  in  this  brief 
memoir  as  Sir  Douglas,  was  bom  at  Birkenhead  in  1827 — the  tenth  child  and  third 
son  of  his  parents.  He  went  to  Sherborne  School,  in  Dorsetshire,  where  he  remained 
only  a  short  time,  and  then  proceeded  to  Rugby,  of  which  school  Dr.  Arnold  was 
Head  Master,  succeeded  soon  afterwards  by  Dr.  Tait,  who  became  Archbishop  of 
Canterbury,  and  under  whose  tuition  Sir  Douglas  remained  until  he  went  to 
Haileybury  College,  having  obtained  a  writership  in  the  Bengal  Presidency  from 
Mr.  Lyall,  formerly  M.P.  for  London.  The  Principal  of  Haileybury  College  was 
the  late  Bev.  William  Melvill,  and  here  he  greatly  distinguished  himself,  gaining 
five  gold  medals  for  proficiency  in  Oriental  languages  and  law.  In  1848  he  sailed 
for  India,  and  at  Fort  William  College,  in  Calcutta,  he  obtained  a  gold  medal  and 
three  prizes  for  "  high  proficiency."  About  this  time  the  Punjab,  after  the  second 
Sikh  war,  was  annexed  to  British  India,  and  Sir  Douglas  was  appointed 
Assistant  Magistrate  at  Saharunpore,  and  next  year  Joint  Magistrate  and  Deputy 
Collector  at  Simla.    In  1851  he  was  Assistant  Commissioner  of  Kangra,  and  in 


By  W.  Forsyth,  Esq.,  Q.O.,  LL.D. 


124 


OBIT[rARY. 


1856  Deputy  Commissi  oner  of  Ufiiballa{  the  Commissioner  being  tlie  kt«  Mr,  George 
Baines),  when  the  mutiny  broke  out.  While  holding  these  various  apiKJintroents, 
hlagi-eat  ability  and  devotion  to  duty  gained  bira  the  full  confidence  and  approval 
of  hia  EUiieriorp,  and  no  one  of  the  young  civil  servants  gave  brighter  promise  of  an 
eminent  career.  Nothing  couM  exceed  the  enei^y  and  courage  shown  by  him  at 
the  momentous  crisis  of  the  mutiny.  He  called  upon  the  Maharaja  of  Puttiala  to 
assist  us,  and  secured  bis  loyalty  to  the  British  side^  which  example  was  followed 
by  the  adhesjon  of  the  Kajas  of  Jheend  aod  Nabba.  The  chief  duly  that  devolved 
upon  him  waa  to  provide  the  means  of  transport  for  the  troops  on  their  march  to 
Delhi,  then  held  by  the  rebels  and  besieged  by  ua,  and  to  his  active  exertions  it 
"Was  greatly  owing  that  the  Punjab  regiments  were  able  to  accomplish  their  difficult 
march.  He  raised  a  police  force  for  the  defence  of  Umballa,  and  protected  the  road 
leading  from  that  place  to  KumanL 

In  1858  he  was  promoted  to  the  office  of  flecretary  to  Sir  Robert  Montgomery, 
the  Chief  Commissicmer  of  Oudh,  and  a  warm  and  affectionate  friendship  grew  up 
between  them  w^hich  lasted  until  the  end  of  his  life.  We  may  mention  that  one  of 
bis  daughters  married  a  son  of  Sir  Robert,  who  had  the  highest  appreciation  of  his 
cbamcter  and  ability,  and  frequently  sought  his  advice,  which  he  always  found  to 
be  wise  and  judicious^  In  1860  he  became  Officiating  Commissioner  in  the  Punjab, 
and  received  the  order  of  C.B,  for  his  services  in  the  mutiuy.  In  1863  he  was  ^ 
Commissioner  of  Lahore^  and  in  1865  Commissioner  of  Julluudur,  H 

Having  in  1869  come  to  England  on  furlough,  a  signal  proof  was  given  of  the 
confidence  reposed  in  his  judgment  and  thorough  knowledge  of  Indian  politics,  by 
his  being  entrusted  by  Lord  Clarendon  with  the  responsible  duty  of  going  on  a 
mission  to  Russia  for  the  purpose  of  coming  to  an  understanding  with  the  Russian 
Government  on  the  vexed  question  of  the  north- western  frontier  of  Afghanistan,  so 
as  to  define  it,  and  thus  afford  no  pretext  for  Ru8s:an  aggression  in  that  quarter. 
He  proceeded  to  Russia  by  way  of  Constantinople,  and  had  several  interviews  with 
Prince  GortchakofiT,  and  one  with  the  Emperor  Alexander  \L  He  received  the  most 
distinct  aud  pobitive  assurances  on  these  occasions  that  the  Russian  Government 
acknowledged  the  frontier  pin  ted  out  by  him  to  be  the  true  boundary  ^  and  a 
declaration  that  there  was  no  intention  on  the  part  of  Russia  to  disturb  it.  More- 
over, that  Afghanistan  was  considered  to  be  out  of  the  sphere  of  Russia's  policy. 
It  was  the  strong  opinion  of  Sir  Douglas,  and  we  believe  that  he  repeatedly  gave  the 
advice,  that  a  boundary  line  should  then  be  drawn  and  formally  accepted  by  Russia,, 
which,  if  done,  would  have  obviated  subsequent  misunderstandings  and  conduct  on 
the  part  of  Russia  which  recently  brought  us  to  the  brink  of  war  with  that  country. 
He  had  always  a  rooted  distrust  of  the  policy  and  good  faith  of  Russia,  and  thought 
that  the  only  course  to  be  adopted  towards  that  power  was  to  say  to  her,  "  Tbus 
far  shait  thou  go  and  no  farther,  or  the  alternative  is  war.** 

Sir  Dougbs  had  always  taken  a  warm  interest  in  the  question  of  trade  between 
India  and  Central  Asia^  and  as  one  proof  of  this  we  may  mention  that  the  village  of 
Palampore,  in  tho  Kangra  Valley,  was  created  by  him  to  facilitate  the-  transi^ort 
of  merchandise  between  the  two  countries. 

After  his  return  to  India,  and  while  he  was  Commiasioner  of  Umballa,  a  serious 
disturbance  broke  out  at  Kouka  in  his  district,  which  he  with  great  promptitude  and 
energy  suppressed.  Several  executions  took  place,  by  the  order  of  the  Deputy  Com- 
missioner, in  the  absence  of  Sir  Douglas  at  Delhi,  and  he  approved  of  his  conduct. 
For  this  he  was  censured  by  Lord  Napier  aud  Ettrick,  theu  acting  provisionally  as 
Governor-General,  but  it  was  subsequently  acknowledged  that  his  action  was  right, 
and  it  is  generally  admitted  that  he  had  saved  the  Punjab  from  what  might  havo 
been  a  very  grave  disaster. 


OBITtTART. 


125 


^ 
^ 


Iq  1870  he  was  selected  by  the  Governor-General,  Lord  Mayo,  to  coEduct  a 
mission  to  Kashgaria,  then  an  almost  unkuown  region,  and  previously  visited  by 
only  one  EngiishmaOp  Mr.  Shaw.  The  ruler  of  the  conotry  was  the  Eoiir  Yakoob 
Beg,  otherwise  known  by  the  name  of  the  Atalik  Ghazi,  and  the  object  of  the 
mifision  was  to  negotiate  a  treaty  of  commerce  between  India  and  his  territory. 
The  access  to  Kashgaria  was  very  difficult,  owing  to  the  chain  of  lofty  mountains 
that  intervene,  some  of  them  attaining  the  altitude  of  18,000  feet,  and  the  whole  of 
the  complicated  arrangements  for  the  journey  devolved  upon  him.  Unfortunately, 
the  Emirwaa  absent  on  an  expedition,  and  as  the  instructions  of  Sir  Douglaa 
required  him  to  return  to  Indiii  before  the  commencement  of  the  winter,  he  was 
unable  to  obtain  an  interview,  so  that  on  this  occasion  the  mission  was  abortive. 

Id  1872  Sir  Douglas  was  tnuiBferred  to  Oudh,  and  became  Conimissioner  of 
Fyzabad,  and  next  year.  Lord  Mayo  having  determined  to  seud  a  second  misdon  to 
KashgariJi,  was  appointed  Envoy,  and  this  time  he  was  more  suocessfuh  He  stayed 
£ome  time  at  Yarkand  and  Kasbgar,  and  had  eeverai  meetings  with  the  Emir,  discus- 
sing  with  Mm  not  only  the  terms  of  a  treaty  of  commerce,  hut  also  the  nature  of  the 
reUtiona  between  Russia  and  Kashgaria,  which  seemed  threatened  with  the  possi- 
bility of  Russian  aggression.  A  report  of  this  mission  was  printed  in  a  bulky 
volume,  which  contains  a  large  mass  of  useful  information  on  the  |jolitics,  natural 
history,  and  condition  of  Eastern  Turkistan.  Kext  year  Sir  Douglas  was  mode  a 
K-C.S.L,  an  honour  conferred  u|ion  him  by  the  express  desire  of  Her  Majesty, 
ilthough  the  number  of  the  members  of  the  order  was  then  complete,  and  there  w*as 
no  actual  vacancy. 

He  was  appointed  additional  member  of  the  Lep;islfttive  Council  of  India,  and 
in  1876  was  sent  to  Burma  by  Lord  Nortlibrook  as  envoy  to  settle  a  question  of 
disputed  boundary,  which  he  successfully  accompliBhed,  having  an  audience  of  the 
King  at  Mandalay. 

isext  year,  1876,  he  resigned  the  Indian  service,  and  came  to  England,  where 
he  resided  until  his  death,  occupying  himself  by  taking  a  prominent  part  in  the 
diiection  of  several  Indian  railways.  He  was  director  of  the  East  India  and  Sclnde 
and  Punjab  Railways  and  chairman  of  the  Southern  Mahralta  and  the  West  of 
India  Portuguese  Guaranteed  Railway  Companies,  the  formation  of  which  was 
mainly  due  to  his  exertions.  He  also  became  Member  of  Council  of  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society,  and  took  a  warm  interest  In  its  proceedings,  having  by  his 
extensive  travels — in  which  he  had  visited  Cbina  and  Japan,  and  crossed  the 
American  Continent— made  himself  acquainted  with  tiie  chief  parts  of  the  globe. 
He  was  also  much  interested  in  the  promotion  of  tea  cultivation  in  India,  and  while 
in  England  took  an  active  jmrt  in  the  direction  of  two  tea  companies,  whoso  property 
is  situated  in  the  Kangra  Valley. 

Sir  Douglas  had  the  art  of  winning  the  attachment  of  the  natives  of  India  in 
an  extraordinary  degree.  He  was  endtared  to  them  by  his  uniform  courtesy  and 
kindness,  and  he  was  alwHys  anxious  to  me  them  ailvanced  to  [x>.its  which  they 
were  fitted  to  fill  He  was  emphatically  their  friend,  and  they  knew  it,  A  striking 
proof  of  their  feeling  towards  him  was  shown  on  the  occasion  of  a  visit  he  paid  to 
India  three  years  ago,  accompanied  by  his  elder  brother.  When  in  the  districts  of 
the  Punjab  which  had  been  under  his  authority  great  numbers  of  natives  came 
from  distant  parts  to  welcome  him,  and  testified  in  the  most  unmistakable  manuer 
the  affection  wnth  which  his  memory  was  treasured  in  their  hearts.  He  w^as 
iode^  one  of  the  roost  generous  and  unselfish  of  men,  and  never  so  happy  as  when 
he  had  the  opportunity  of  doing  acts  of  kindness  to  others.  As  was  truly  said 
in  one  of  the  very  numerous  letters  received  on  his  death,  he  was  **  tbe  ideal  of 
an  English  gentleman."^ 


126 


REPORT  OF  THE  EVEKIKO  MEETINGS. 


He  married  Alice,  daughter  of  the  kte  Mr,  Thomas  Ball  Plumer,  of  Cauoui ' 
Park,  and  graDddaugbter  of  Sir  Thomas  Flnmer,  Master  of  the  Rolls,  and  has  lofl 
hifl  widow  and  three  daughters  to  mourn  his  loss. 

Captain  C.  George,  E.lf . — Tlic  former  well-known  and  universally  esteemed 
Caratur  of  the  Map  Department  of  our  Society,  SiaflT-Commaoder  ChriBtoplier 
George,  died  on  the  2nd  of  January,  at  tlie  age  of  77  ye^irs.  He  was  in  the 
Society's  service  for  a  period  of  20  years,  namely,  from  Juno  18GT  to  Juno  1877, 
at  which  latter  date  he  resigned,  owing  to  the  fftiiure  of  his  eyesight,  an  infirmity 
which  was  quickly  followed  by  nearly  total  blindnesij.  In  his  earlier  life  Captain 
George  had  seen  much  active  service  in  the  Navy,  chiefly  in  the  scientific  branch. 
Ho  was  born  at  Limehouse  on  the  14th  September,  180D,  and  entered  the  Navy  as 
Beooiid-clas.H  volunteer  in  January,  1828,  From  master^s  assiatant  on*  the  Britomart 
(1828  to  1S30),  the  Savage  and  Ntmrod  (1831  to  1835),  and  the  Sulphur  (to  1837), 
he  rose  to  be  second  master  in  the  SuljJtur  (1837-1842),  and  Fisgard  (1842-^), 
acting-master  and  master  in  the  Tarturm  (1843-1846),  and  senior  assistant-sur- 
veyor on  the  Fkgard  (1846-1854).  As  naval  surveyor  during  the  last  19  years  of 
his  service  he  was  engaged  successively  under  Captains  Deecbey,  Kellett,  CoHiuson, 
and  Sir  Edward  Belcher,  on  the  west  coast  of  America,  among  the  islands  of  the 
Pacific,  and  od  the  coast  of  China,  and  afterwards  on  the  south-west  coast  of  IrelancL 
During  the  whole  term  of  his  service,  2G  years  4  months,  he  was  only  10  months 
without  a  ship,  that  interval  being  in  the  first  seven  years.  He  obtained  the  rank 
of  conmiissioned  officer  in  Noveml)er  1843.  In  the  China  war  of  1841,  be  waa 
in  action  at  the  taking  of  the  forts  on  the  Canton  river  up  to  the  city  of  Canton, 
surveying  in  advance  for  the  fleet  to  proceed,  and  0|>erating  with  the  Naval  Brigade, 
with  the  troops  in  rear  of  the  city.  For  this  service  he  received  the  China  sOver 
medalon842. 

Captain  George  invented  tbe  spiral  cord  method  of  filling  the  mercurial  baro- 
meter, and  two  instrunjents  now  bearing  his  name,  viz.  the  double  sextant  and  the 
artificial  horizon.  For  these  he  received  a  medal  at  tbe  International  Geographical 
Congress  of  Paris,  1875.  His  knowledge  and  skill  as  a  surveyor  and  mapper  were 
employed,  whilst  connected  with  our  Society,  in  computing  the  observations  of 
travellers,  and  in  instructing  them  prior  to  their  undertaking  their  explorationa. 
Amongst  bis  pupils  were  some  of  our  most  re u owned  travellers,  including  Du 
Chaillu  (for  bis  second  journey),  Thomas  Baines,  Captain  Burton,  and  Sir  C.  Baker. 


KEPOET  OF  THE  E\\ENIN(}  MEETINGS,  SESSION  1886-7. 

Fmrtk  Meeting,  Januartf  llthj,  1887. — General  E.  Stracuey,  r.e.,  f,r.s,, 
Vice-PreBident,  in  the  Cbain 
Elkctions. — Edward  C.  Admna^  Esq. ;  IhiiTy  Akxander,  Esq.^  b.a.  ;  Geo,  H. 
Biirday,  E&q. ;  AJfrtd  IL  Burton^  Esq. ;  Vhas,  Chewings^  E$q, ;  Jas,  (/,  Fraz€i\ 
Enq,;  J  as.  EodoJph  Gl&ver,  E$q,  ;  Fhilip  IL  GrahamyEsq,;  Jiohert  Kilpatrick, 
Esq. ;  Willmm  Martin ,  E^, ;  M,  II,  M,  I\  de  la  MurHuikre ;  T.  W.  MouUon, 
Esq, ;  Major  Wm.  Nort&n  P^rsse^  E*A. ;  D*  Macdonald  Mohertson'MacdojiaM,  £iy, ; 
LieuL  Waiier  Ileniy  Simpson  {Bengal  Staff  Corps);  Edward  Stall iifrasaf  Esq.; 
Ilmis  Sloane  Stanley^  E»q* ;  CUnUm  Brazil  van  Tuyl^  Esq, 

Thb  Emin  Pasha  Belief  Expedition, 
Previous  to  the  reading  of  the  paper,  the  Chaikman  announced  that  tbe  Council 
of  the  Society  bad  thai  day  passed  the  following  Resolution ; — 

"  An  expedition  to  be  conducted  by  Mr.  H,  M.  Stanley  having  been  organised  for 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES.  127 

the  relief  of  Emin  Pasha,  under  the  coDtrol  of  a  Committee  formed  in  London,  and 
the  Council  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  being  satisfied  that  valuable  new 
geographical  data  are  likely  to  be  obtained  by  whichever  route  the  expedition  pro- 
ceeds, resolves  that  a  grant  of  lOOOZ.  be  made  to  the  managing  committee  of  the 
expedition  with  a  view  to  that  sum  being  applied  in  aid  of  the  geographical  explora- 
tion of  the  country  to  be  traversed,  and  in  hope  that  the  results  of  the  exploration 
may  be  communicated  for  publication  by  the  Society/ 

The  Chaibmak  added  that  he  hoped  the  Resolution  would  receive  the  approba- 
tion of  the  members.  The  announcement  was  received  with  applause  by  the 
meeting. 

Sir  Rawson  Rawson  mentioned  Ihat  he  had  just  learnt  from  Mr.  Stanley  that 
be  proposed  to  start  for  Egypt  and  Zanzibar  on  Friday,  the  2l8t. 

The  following  paper  was  then  read : — 

•*  Explorations  in  South- Elastem  New  Guinea,"  By  the  Rev.  J.  Chalmers.  See 
ante,  p.  71. 

PEOCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 

C^graphical  Society  of  Paris. — December  3rd,  1886  :  M.  A.  Germain  in  the 
chair. — A  communication  was  read  by  the  Secretary  from  the  Commercial  Geo- 
graphical Society  of  Havre,  with  reference  to  the  appointment  of  a  Permanent 
Commission  to  carry  into  eSact  the  resolutions  of  the  Annual  Congress  of  the  Geo- 
graphical Societies  of  Frauce ;  the  opinion  of  the  Society  was  invited  as  to  the  scope 
and  composition  of  this  committee. — A  letter  was  read  from  M.  Ch.  Toret  confirming 
the  conclusions  of  Comte  de  Bellanger,  announced  at  the  last  meeting,  upon  the  pre- 
cise locality  of  Tavernier's  grave. — M.  Hangsen  Blangsted  informed  the  Society 
that  the  delegates  appointed  by  the  governments  of  Sweden  and  Denmark  to 
advise  upon  the  proposed  submarine  tunnel  between  the  island  of  Zealand  and 
Sweden,  had  issued  a  report  unfavourable  to  the  scheme. — A  letter  dated  30th  August 
was  read  from  Vicomte  E.  de  la  Panouse,  giving  a  short  account  of  his  travels  in 
SSouth  Africa.  Since  1882,  he  had  traversed  the  country  between  the  Cape  of  Good 
Ilope  and  the  Zambesi,  but  being  unprovided  with  astronomical  instruments  he  had 
be^  unable  to  take  observations  for  verifying  existing  maps.  He  was  then  to  the 
north  of  the  Zambesi,  and  it  was  his  intention  to  proceed  to  Lake  Bangweolo,  de- 
scend the  Loangwe  to  Zumbo,  and  then  crossing  the  Zambesi  to  make  his  way  to 
Mangwe,  a  village  about  200  miles  east  of  the  Falls.  He  would  return  to  Tete  through 
the  country  of  the  Mashonas.  He  requested  the  Society  to  lend  him  the  necessary 
instruments  for  taking  observations.  He  was  defraying  the  cost  of  his  journey  by 
elephant  hunting. — M.  H.  Duveyrier  called  the  attention  of  the  Society  to  an  ex- 
cellent map  of  the  Freuch  possessions  in  Senegal,  which  was  exhibited  in  the  halL 
This  map  had,  he  said,  been  carefully  prepared  by  Captain  Monteil,  and  embodied 
all  the  results  of  the  most  recent  explorations  in  the  country. — M.  Germond  de 
Lavigne  gave  an  account  of  the  excursion  recently  made  by  him  through  Portugal 
to  Cape  Vincent  and  Cape  Sagres.  An  interesting  resum^  of  his  mission  to  Iceland 
was  given  by  Dr.  Henry  Labonne.* — The  General  Secretary  then  read  a  letter  dated 
2l8t  October,  1886,  from  Dr.  Neis,  who  wrote  from  the  hospital  of  HanoL  His  party 
bad  sufiered  from  the  attacks  of  pirates,  and  also  from  political  complications  which 
had  only  recently  been  solved.  However  he  had  succeeded  in  collecting  a  large 
amount  of  valuable  geographical  information  regarding  the  district  between  the  Black 


•  *  Proceedings  B.G.S.,'  1887,  p.  52. 


128 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


River  ap<l  tlio  Mekong.  He  int<?nded  to  rest  fcr  some  weeks  before  rccorameDcing 
the  wioter  campaiga  on  the  froii tiers  of  the  two  Kuaags. — la  cooclusioQ  the  Chair- 
man announced  that  the  Second  General  Meeting  of  the  year,  to  be  held  on  the  17th 
Deeember,  would  be  presided  orer  bj  M.  Ferd.  de  Lessepa,  who  would  also  take  the 
chair  at  the  Annual  Banquet 

—December  17th,  1886 :   M.   Ferdinand  de  Lebseps,  President  of  the 

Society,  in  the  Chair* — This  waa  the  second  General  Meeting  of  the  year.  After 
the  Chairman^d  opening  remarks,  M.  Maunoir,  the  General  Secretary,  read  aome 
extracts  from  hiB  Annual  Eeport,  on  the  operations  of  the  Society,  and  on  the 
progreaa  of  geography  during  the  year.  The  Report  will  be  published  as  usual  in 
the  Quarterly  Bulletin  of  the  Society. — The  Chairman  then  called  upon  M,  D^ir^ 
Charnay  to  read  a  paper  on  his  miaaioa  in  Yucatan,  with  which  he  had  been  charged 
by  the  Minister  of  Public  Instmctioa,  This  was,  M.  Charnay  said,  his  fourth 
voyage  to  the  peninsula.  He  had  again  visited  the  town  of  Izamal  to  search  for  the 
bas-reliefs  mentioned  by  Lauda  the  historian,  as  existing  on  the  base  of  certain 
pyramids.  He  had  discovered  a  few,  and  also  eome  wall  paintings,  which  gave  him 
the  key  to  the  decorative  style  of  the  ancient  mhabitants<  He  had  been  prevented 
from  visiting  an  Indian  villsge  called  Kol>a,  in  consequence  of  a  raid  through  the 
country  by  this  savage  tribe ;  but  he  had  found  to  the  north  of  Valladulid  an  Indian 
towu,  hitherto  unknown,  named  Ek-balam,  or  *'  the  Black  Tiger,"  which  also  belonged 
to  the  third  epoch  of  Toltec  civilisation.  He  made  some  interesting  archieological 
discoveries  at  this  place  and  aho  at  an  old  Maya  cemeiery  in  the  island  of  Taina, 
about  24  milea  north  of  Campeche,  on  the  other  side  of  the  peninsula.  The  Chair- 
man after  thanking  M.  Charnay  for  his  intereBiing  paper,  and  referring  to  the  award 
of  the  Logerot  prizo  made  to  him  two  years  ago  by  the  Society,  stated  that  the 
Central  Commission  had  just  decided  that  M.  Charnay  should  be  the  first  travelier 
to  benefit  by  the  Poirier  bequest,  which,  it  would  be  remembered,  was  to  be  given  to 
travellers  of  French  origin,  whose  travels  and  works  were  considered  to  be  most 
valuable  to  science  and  commerce. — M.de  Lesseps  presented  an  album  of  photographs 
representing  the  present  state  of  the  works  of  the  Panama  Canal, 

GaoprapMcaL  Society  of  Berlin* — January  8th,  1887 :  Herr  W,  Reibs  in 
the  chair,— The  Chairman,  at  the  commencement  of  the  meeting,  gave  an  account 
of  the  prograas  of  I  he  Society  during  1886,  Nineteen  paj>or3  by  travellers  had  been 
read  at  ten  meetings,  of  which  ten  papers  related  to  Africa,  sir  to  Asia,  and  three  to 
South  America.  The  number  of  ordinary  members  iLcreased  from  S*4r>  to  976.  The 
library  reccivetl  the  addition  of  456  volumes,  the  map  collection  68  sheets  of  maps. 
The  Council  have  decided  on  printing  a  catalogue  of  the  library,  and  it  will  appear 
in  the  course  of  1888.  For  the  proposed  monument  at  Cape  Palm  as  to  Dr,  Nachtigal^ 
the  amount  of  11,347  marks  had  been  subscribed  in  consequence  of  the  appeal  of  the 
German  Geographical  Societies ;  but  as  this  sum  is  inaufliclenti  a  fresh  appeal  would 
shortly  be  made. — Dr.  van  Bijckevorsel  of  Rotterdam,  who  in  1874-1877  travelled 
through  the  East  Indian  Archipelago  to  study  the  magnetic  phenomena  of  the 
region,  and  afterwards  (in  1881-1884)  travelled  in  North-eastern  Brazil  with  the 
same  object,  determining  the  magnetic  elements  at  135  isointa  from  Para  to  Rio 
Janeiro,  read  a  paper  on  his  journey  in  Sumatra,  He  travelled  from  Bencoolen  vi4 
Taba  Penandjung  to  Kepajaog,  crossing  with  a  caravan  of  porters  the  extraordinarily 
rugged  and  volcanically-disturbed  Barisan  mountains.  The  river- valleys  in  thia 
region  are  very  deep,  and  form  in  places,  otherwise  level,  deep  gorges  with  very  steep 
escarpments.  From  Tebing  Tinggi  the  traveller  passed  in  a  travelling  car  through 
a  barren  district  of  bamboo  wooils  to  Muara  Bliti  ou  the  Klingi.  Here  a  raft  was 
built,  and  on  this  the  Klingi  and  afterwards  the  Musi  were  navigated,  Palembang 


I 


MEW  GS06RAPH1CAL  PUBUGATIOMS.  129 

bemg  reached  after  a  journey  of  three  weeks.  Tho  popalatioii  of  Palembaog  is  upon 
the  whole  mach  more  indastrious  and  active  than  the  rest  of  the  Sumatra  people. 
A  great  obstacle  to  the  rapid  dcTelopment  of  the  island  is  the  slow  increase  of 
popalationy  which  in  this  respect  offers  a  strong  contrast  to  Java,  which  since  the 
Datch  OMiqnest  has  increased  to  nearly  30  million  sonls.  One  cause  of  the  small 
increase  in  Sumatra  is  the  circumstance  that  wives  must  be  bought  and  are  very 
dear,  many  men  in  consequence  remaining  single.  The  immorality  of  the  people, 
besides,  is  very  great,  and  abortion  is  elevated  into  a  science.— Staff-Surgeon  Dr. 
Wolf,  member  of  the  Wissmann  Kasai  expedition,  gave  the  meeting  an  account  of 
his  travels  and  discoveries  in  the  Southern  Congo  Basin.  From  Makenge,  the  chief 
town  of  the  Baluba  kingdom,  he  visited  the  Bakete  tribe  living  more  northerly  on 
the  Lulua,  and  the  Bakuba,  who  dwell  between  the  Sankuru  and  the  Lulua,  being 
the  first  European  who  has  reached  those  regions.  Returning  thence  to  Luluaburg, 
Dr.  Wolf  took  part  in  the  exploration  of  the  Kasai,  and  returned  then  alone  from 
Stanley  Pool  to  Mukenge.  From  here  he  undertook,  with  the  help  of  the  steamer 
En  Avant,  lent  to  him  by  the  Congo  State,  the  exploration  of  the  Sankuru  and 
Lomami,  from  which  journey  he  returned  in  July  1886  to  the  mouth  of  the  Congo. 


NEW  GEOGRAPfflOAL  PUBLICATIONS. 

(By  J.  SooiT  Keltie,  Ltbrartan  r.o.s.) 
EUROPE. 

Ben  Vonke-Vordhavs  Expedition  1876-1878.  —  [The  Norwegian  North- 
Atlantic  Expedition  1876-1878.]     XVI.    Zoologi.    Mollusca.    II,    Ved  Her- 
man Friele.     Christiania,  Gr^ndahl  &  S^na,  1886 :  imp.  4to.,  pp.  44,  6  plates. 
[Presented  hy  the  Editorial  Committee  of  the  Norwegian  North-Atlantic  Ex- 
pedition.] 
Du  Fief  [J.]— La  Density  de  la  Population  en  Belgique  et  dans  les  autres  Pays  du 
Monde.  Bruxelles,  Vanderauwera,  1887  :  8vo.,  pp.  53.  [Presented  by  the  Author.] 
This  a  useful  iuTestigation  on  the  density  of  the  population  of  Belgium 
with  special  reference  to  the  means  of  subsistence.    The  author  does  not  seem 
to  think  that  at  present  there  is  any  reason  to  be  alarmed  at  the  increase  of  the 
population.   He  gives  comparative  statistics  of  the  population  of  other  countries 
from  the  same  point  of  view. 

[Geographical  lIemoirs.>-Die  Vergletscherang  des  Salzachgebietes,  nebst 
Beobachtungen  ttber  die  Eiszeit  in  der  Schweiz.  Von  Dr.  Eduard  Briickner. — 
Orometrie  des  Schwarzwaldes.  Von  Dr.  Ludwig  Neumann. — Hefte  1  and  2 
of  Geographische  Abhandlungen,  herausgegebon  von  Prof.  Dr.  Albrecht  Penck 
in  Wien.  Wien,  Eduard  Holzel,  1886  :  8vo.,  Heft  1,  pp.  x.  and  183;  Heft  2, 
pp.  185-238.  Price  20s.  per  vol.  of  30  sheets  with  supplements.  [Presented  by 
Professor  Penck.] 

These  two  first  parts  of  this  new  geographical  serial  publication  bear  out  the 
promise  of  the  prospectus,  already  referred  to  in  the  •  Proceedings,'  and  are 
creditable  to  the  enterprise  of  tho  publisher.  It  is  not  meant  as  a  rival  to  any 
existing  serial,  but  as  a  means  of  giving  to  the  world  memoirs  in  scienti6c  geo- 
graphy which  it  would  be  difficult  to  find  a  place  for  in  any  existing  medium. 
Both  memoirs  are  good  examples  of  exhaustive  studies  in  local  geography. 
The  particular  region  investigated  by  Dr.  Briickner  is  the  south-east  borderland 
of  Bavaria  and  Austria,  with  Salzburg  as  the  centre.  He  has  worked  out  every 
trace  of  the  efifects  of  past  glaciation  on  the  geographical  features  of  the  region, 
and  in  the  concluding  chapter  deals  with  the  LaKe  of  Geneva  and  its  former 


I3d 


NEW  GEOGRAPIIJCAL  PUBLlCAf lOXS. 


extension,  and  with  the  ioe-period  on  the  northern  s\o\ye9  of  the  Alps.  The 
second  memoir,  by  Dr.  Newmann,  is  as  thorough  a  study  of  the  orometry  of  the 
Black  Forest  as  is  Dr.  BnicknerB  of  the  Sahhtirj:  re;;iun*  Both  are  fully 
illustrated  with  maps  and  diagrams,  and  may  be  tAken  as  good  examples  of  the 
valuable  and  instructive  results  to  be  obtained  by  thorough  and  competent 
research  in  local  gecgraphy* 

[SwitzeiflaEd'] — A  Handbook  for  Travellers  m  Switzerland,  the  Alps  of  Savoy 
and  PicdQiont,  the  Italian  Lakes,  and  part  of  Daupbine.  17th  edition,  revised. 
London,  Murray,  1886 :  two  vols.  8vo.  j  vol.  i.  pp.  Ixxxviii.  and  295,  vol  ii. 
pp.  297-5G9.     Price  lOs. 

This  new  edition  has  been  brought  up  to  date  as  far  as  possible  with  regarti 
to  railways,  population  of  towns,  inns,  and  general  information,  from  personal 
knowledge,  the  best  Swiss  atuhoriiies,  and  the  notes  with  which  the  editor  has 
been  favoured  by  traTellers. 

ASIA. 

[Illdi&,]^Tho  Dawn  of  British  Trade  to  the  East  Indies,  as  recorded  in  the  Court 
Minutes  of  the  East  India  Company,  1599-1G03  ;  containing  an  account  of  the 
furaiation  of  the  Cbmi>aDy,  the  Firat  Adventure,  and  Way  mouth's  Voyage  in 
search  of  the  Korth-west  Passage*  Now  first  printed  from  the  origiual  manuscript, 
by  Henry  Stevena,  of  Ycrmont,  with  an  Introduction  by  Sir  George  Birdwood,  kt. 
CBj.,  M.D,  Henry  Stevens  and  Son,  London,  1886  :  8vo.,  pp.  xxiv,  and  331. 
Price  21s,     [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

The  late  Mr.  Henry  Stevens  did  excellent  service  in  reproducing,  at  great 
ex|)ense,  these  records  of  our  earliest  commercial  connectli.>n  with  India.  Tiie 
original  manuscript  had  found  its  way  to  the  Public  Record  Office,  where  it  fell 
nnder  the  notice  of  Mr.  Stevens.  He  had  it  most  carefully  copied,  a  task  of 
great  difticulty,  owing  to  the  decayed  state  of  some  of  the  itianuscript,  aud  the 
difficulty  of  deciphering  some  of  the  writing*  The  ret^ult  is  whnt  may  be 
regarded  as  an  absolutely  faithful  copy  of  these  curious  records,  with  all  their 
interlineations  and  obliterations.  For  anyone  desirous  of  tmcing  the  history  of 
our  connections  with  India,  the  volume  will  be  of  great  value.  To  the  geo- 
grapher, the  records  connected  with  Way  month's  first  abortive  voyage  in  search 
of  a  North'West  Passage,  the  preliminary  meetings  of  the  committee,  the  outfit 
of  the  vessels,  and  the  evidence  taken  as  to  the  results,  will  be  of  interest.  True, 
a  good  deal  of  this  has  already  appeared  in  the  lilth  volume  of  the  Ilakluyt 
i5ociety*s  publications.  Sir  George  Bixdwood's  introduction  is  interesting; 
while  Mr.  Henry  N,  Stevens  has  supplied  a  most  copious  index. 

Izvestiya  Yostotchno-Sibirskago  Otdiela  Imperatorskago  Ilusskago  Geographiches- 
kago  Obshestva.     Tom.  xvi.,  Nos.  4-5.     Irkutsk,  1887  i  pp.  196. 

This  number  of  the  proceedings  of  the  East  SilKrian  Section  of  the  Husaian 
Geogra|ihic.il  Society  is  almost  wholly  taken  up  with  the  affairs  of  the  Section, 
its  tiDances,  [>rotocols  of  meetings,  &c.,  &c.  There  is  a  letter  from  M.  D.  Butiii 
to  Count  Ignatiefl'  on  the  subjc>ct  of  the  projxjsed  canal  to  unite  the  Ob  and 
Yenisei,  some  particnlars  uf  Dr.  Bunjie's  expedition,  and  a  report  by  MM. 
Vagin  and  Bobrovnikoflf  on  the  statistical  work  to  be  undertaken  in  Easterjs 
Siberia,  It  is  pointed  out  that  there  is  a  great  want  of  agricultural  statistics 
for  this  i^art  of  the  Empire,  whureos  European  Kussia  has  been  thoroughly 
surveyed  in  this  sense.— [E.  D,  H.] 

Bein  [Professor  J*  J,]— Jajvan  nach   Reisen  und  Studien,  im  Auftrage  der  K. 

PreussiBchcn    Eegienmg  dargestellt,     2tes  Band,     Land-  uud   Forstwirtschaft,. 

Industrie  und  Handel.    Leipzig:  Engelmann,  1886.    [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

The  readers  of  the  first  volume  of  Dr.  Rein's  very  careful  study  of  Japan  in 

its  various  aspects  will  welcome  the  conclusion  of  the  work.     The  i  I  lustra  tionti- 

to  the  present  volume  are  specially  note  worthy  for  their  tmth  and  beauty. 

Upwards  of  300  pages  of  this  volume  are  devoted  to  forestry  and  agriculture. 


■ 
I 

I 


KEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 


131 


ftnd  the  information  thua  collected,  carefully  arranged  and  bronght  up  to  date, 
will  be  foimd  of  great  service  to  students  desirous  of  study  log  man  and  his 
enTirontnent  in  Japan,  A  chapter  is  devoted  to  the  mineral  industry  of  the 
cocmtry,  in  which  Dr.  Hein  dispels  some  erroDeoiis  eoDceptioos  as  to  the  mineral 
wealth  of  Japan.  Some  200  {tages  deal  with  the  art  manufactures  of  Japan  and 
the  industries  connected  therewith,  and  it  ia  to  this  section  that  we  fiod  the 
numerous  remarkahle  illustrations  refened  to.  The  leading  industrieB  treated 
of  are  those  in  wood,  in  lacquer,  iu  tex^tiles,  paper,  motalsj  cemmic,  and  enamcL 
The  fourth  chapter  deals  with  trade  and  oommcrce,  and  appended  is  a  series  of 
eight  extremely  useful  statistical  tables.  The  whole  work  does  Dr.  Rein  the 
highest  credit,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  second  volume,  like  its  predecessor^ 
will  be  translated  into  English. 

Siberien,  Geographische,  ethnographischeund  historische  Studien  von  N,  ladrinzew, 
Mit  BewilUgung  des  Verfaijsers  nach  dem  Russischen  bearbeitet  nnd  vervollstiindigt 
von  Dr.  Ed,  Petri,     Jena,  1886 ;  pp.  zviii,  and  589,  with  twelve  plates, 

Siberia,  says  Dr.  Petri  in  his  preface,  ia  a  land  of  the  future.  Prejudices 
which  have  hitherto  misled  people  concertiiug  it  must  disappear  before  the  light 
which  science  can  throw  over  tins  Eireat  north  land,  destined  to  fell  a  great  part 
in  the  world— the  border  land  of  European  Russin,  Ct^ntial  Aaia,  China,  Cort-a^ 
ind  Japan.  To  the  worthy  object  of  removing  some  of  the  ignorance  j^revailing 
in  Western  Europe  about  Siberia,  M.  Nicholai  YadrintBelf,  a  native  of  Siberia, 
fired  with  a  noble  ambition  and  a  real  love  of  hm  country,  lias  devoted  himself. 
l*he  present  writer  remembers  with  pleasure  an  evening  spent  in  his  society  at 
Omsk,  in  1880,  when  the  subjecta  discussed  were  those  contained  in  the  work 
before  us. 

Our  author  begins  with  a  study  of  the  Siberian  of  tbe  present  day  and  the 
changes  produced  in  the  original  Slav  type,  by  different  conditions  of  life  in  the 
new  country  beyond  the  Urals  (chaps.  I  and  2) ;  this  is  followed  by  a  treatise 
on  the  sad  fate  and  present  posilioQ  of  the  natives  (Chaps.  3  and  4).  From 
theae  weighty  ethnographical  problems,  the  author  turns  to  the  consideration  of 
actual  questions  of  the  day  :  emigration  (chap.  5),  deportation  (Chap.  6),  and 
the  general  economic  status  of  SiWia  (Chaps.  7  and  8).  The  section  on  the 
ftdministmlion  of  Siberia  (Chap.  9),  and  the  lunging  of  the  Siberian  for  a  higher 
culture  (Chap.  10),  besides  fiup[ilyiag  valuable  historical  material,  enables  uh  to 
form  some  idea  of  the  future  of  the  country,  to  which  a  special  chapter  (11) 
is  devoted.  Some  statistical  tables  conclude  M.  Yadrintseff*8  ivork.  Tho 
original  work  apiMiare<l  in  Russian  in  1882,  and  Dr.  Petri,  professor  of  geography 
ana  anthropology  at  the  University  of  Bern,  has  translated  and  brought  it  up  to 
date  by  interpolating  the  text  a«id  adding  notes,  besides  an  entirely  new  chapter 
(12).  De  has  also,  out  of  regard  for  his  European  reader,  abridgeid  parts  of  the 
text,  and  omitted  details,  especially  in  Chapter  10,  where  the  history  of  the 
Univereity  question  has  been  compressed  into  a  few  pages,  and  the  whole  section 
on  modem  culture  has  been  recast.  With  reference  to  these  and  other  alterations 
Dr.  Petri  has  availed  himself  of  the  opixjrtuoity  afforded  of  close,  friendly 
intercourse  with  M.  Yadnntseff,  during  a  visit  jwid  by  him  to  Switzerland, 

M,  Yadrintseff  has  not  only  given  the  results  of  his  own  observations,  hut 
has  strengthened  his  case  for  the  urgent  need  of  reforms  in  the  adminiBtmtion 
of  Siberia,  by  numerous  quofations  from  other  authorities  both  past  and  present, 
whose  works,  owing  to  their  being  written  in  Russian,  are  more  or  less  iDacces- 
slble  to  the  European  public.  It  is  irnpossible,  wif  kin  the  limittKl  ajmce  allotted 
lo  these  noticoj*,  to  give  more  than  a  bare  outline  of  M.  YadrintsefTs  book,  which 
must  take  its  place  among  standard  works  on  Siberia,  or  to  do  justice  to  the 
sound  judgment  shown  by  Dr.  Petri  in  his  notea  and  additious.  It  would  be 
impossible  to  give  extracts  where  so  much  calls  for  notice.-^[E.  D-  MJ 

WiIIb,  C.  J, — Persia  As  It  Is.  Being  Sketches  of  Modem  Persian  Life  and  Cha- 
racter. London,  Sampson  Low  Sc  Co.,  1886 :  8vo.,  pp.  xix,  and  32G.  Price  85.  6d, 
[Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 


work. 


This  volume  may  be  regarded  as  a  supplement  to  the  Author*g  previous 
k,  'The  Land  of  tho  Lion  and  Sunj  or  Modem  Persia/  published  m  1883. 


183  KEW  GEOORAPHICAL  PtJBLICATIONS. 

Dr.  Wills  went  out  to  Persia  as  a  medicftl  officer  of  H.M.'s  Telegraph  Depart- 
ment In  Persia,  and  resided  for  fifteen  yeArs,  1866-1881,  in  varioua  part 8  of  tlie 
country,  during  which  time  he  had  exceptional  opportunitieB  affonltfd  him  for 
Btndyingt  Persian  life  and  character.  The  present  vokime  abounds  with  inter- 
esting sketches  of  the  people  m  their  various  ^ihasea  of  life,  some  of  which 
have  already  appeared  in  Tm  If'orW,  the  SL  Jamfs's  Gazette,  and  77te  Globe, 
&a  'llie  following  chapter-headings  will  indicate  a  few  of  the  aubjects  treated 
of: — ^I'he  Shah  of  Persia;  the  ilagistrate  in  Persia;  Marriage;  Dervishes; 
Persian  Art  and  Artists;  Judicial  Punishments;  the  Great  Fast  of  Kamazan ; 
the  Annual  Persit^n  Religious  Drama ;  the  Taziyiih ;  in  a  Bazaar ;  the  Jews  in 
Persia;  Persian  Horses;  the  Engliahraan  in  Per^iia;  Progress  in  Persia  in 
1886* 

Zapiaki  Yostochno^Sibirskago  Otdl^a  Irapcratorskago  Eusskago  Geographicheskago 
Obahestya.  Tom.  xiL  Irkutsk,  188G :  pp.  xxix«  and  405,  five  plates  of 
geological  sections. 

The  w^holc  of  this  volume  of  the  Zapiffki  of  the  East  Siberinn  section  of  the 
Bussian  Geographical  Society  is  devoted  to  the  first  part  of  a  detailed  geolojjical 
study  of  Lake  Baikal,  by  J.  D*  Chersky,  Lake  Baikal  the  **  Holy  Sea'*  of  the  local 
Bussian  inhahitantsi,  the  Dalai  or  Dalai'nor  of  the  Buriats,  is  the  largest  alpine 
lake  in  the  world,  and  the  largest  sweet-water  basin  of  Asia,  Its  area,  12,441 
English  square  miles,  may  be  connpared  with  the  great  lakes  of  North  America 
and  Africa,  while  its  majcimum  depth,  4504  feet»  exceeds  that  of  Lake  Superior, 
the  deepest  of  the  encloeed  lacustrine  basiua  of  the  New  World.  Besides  tbe^e 
claims  to  be  treated  as  a  special  subject  of  study,  Lake  Baikal  presents  phenomena 
of  recent  active  vulcanicily ;  earthquakes  are  to  this  day  of  frequent  occurrence  oa 
its  shores^  snd  a  stream  of  lava  which  has  issued  from  one  of  the  extinct  craters 
situated  in  the  neigh bourhood>  has  a  length  of  not  less  than  twelve  miles  (Rectus, 
'  Nouvelle  G^ographie  Univeraelle— Asie  Russe;  p.  732).  The  first  results  of 
M.Chersky's  survey 8,cont in ued  from  1877  to  1881,  were  published  in  the  Ifvestit/a 
of  the  Ea«t  Siberian  section.  His  collections  were  mostly  destroyed  by  the 
great  fire  of  Irkutsk,  in  1878,  but  his  observations  now  appearing  in  detail  can- 
not fail  ti>  be  of  interest.  They  show  that  tbe  whole  of  the  Traas-Baikalian 
and  Maritime  ranges  are  mainly  composed  of  Laurentian  rocks;  while  the 
Onotsk  range,  raised  in  tbe  period  immediately  preceding  the  Jurassic,  is  formed 
of  Pal«;oaoic  deposits,  which  also  fill  the  rifts  in  the  Maritime  range,  and  dip 
below  the  level  of  the  lake-  The  author  was  further  able  to  found  a  theory  of 
the  formatioh  of  l^ake  Baikal,  and  present  in  more  or  less  detail,  and  with  eomo 
degree  of  probability,  certain  phages  of  the  gritdual  development  of  this  basin 
and  its  severance  from  a  uarthem  Silurian  oa^ari.— [E.  B*  M.] 


Al^IOA. 

Bennett^  B.  E.— Seven  Years  amotig  the  Fjort  j  being  an  English  Trader's  Experi- 
ences in  the  Ckingo  District.  London,  Sampson  Low  &  Co.,  1887:  cr.  Svo. 
pp.  xvL  and  240.     Price  la.  6<?.    [Presented  by  the  Publishers,] 

This  liitle  volume  is  the  result  of  seven  years'  caroful  observatioD  and 
experience  among  the  natives  of  the  South-west  Coa^tt  of  Africa.  Its  object 
is  to  better  acqusint  those  tnteresled  in  the  nej;ro,  with  his  home-life,  habits 
and  customs.  Tlic  author  visited  Cabenda,  Kinscmbo,  Amhdzette,  and* 
Chiloango.  There  are  twenty-three  full-pnge  illustrations  from  photographs 
and  the  autbor*8  own  sketchea,  and  a  map  of  tmde  routes  never  before 
publitthed. 

Felkin,  Eobert  W.— Notes  on  the  Waganda  Tribe  of  Central  Africa.  (Reprinted 
from  the  Proceedings  of  the  Royal  Society  of  Ediubui^h,  YoL  Xltl.)  Ediubui^b, 
printed  by  Neill  &  Co,  1886;  8vo.,  plates.     [Presented  by  the  Author.] 


I 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS.  133 

Sjob,  a. — ^A  Yocabolary  of  EibaDgi  as  spoken  by  the  Babangi  (commonly  called 
Bayanai)  on  the  Upper  Congo,  from  K\?a  Mouth  (Easai)  to  Liboko  (Bangala). 
Engliah-Eibangi.  London,  East  London  Institute^  for  Home  and  Foreign  Mis« 
rions,  1886 :  12mo.,  pp.  xi.  and  111.    [Presented  by  B.  N,  Cust,  Esq.] 

AMEBIOA. 

[America,  United  State8.>-[Tenth  Census  of  the  United  States,  1880.] 
VoL  XV m.  Beport  on,  the  Social  Statistics  of  Cities,  compiled  by  George  E. 
Waring,  Jun.,  Expert  and  Special  Agent.  Part  I.  The  New  England  and  the 
Middle  States.  Part  IL  The  Southern  and  the  Western  States.  Part  I. 
Washington,  Government  Printing  OflBce,  1886 :  4to.,  pp.  915,  phins. 

Elliotty  Henry  W. — An  Arctic  Province :  Alaska  and  the  Seal  Islands.  Illus- 
trated by  many  drawings  from  nature,  and  maps.  London,  Sampson  Low  &  Co., 
1886 :  8vo.,  pp.  xv.  and  473.    Price  16«.    [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

This  is  one  of  the  most  complete  and  scientific  of  the  numerous  works 
which  have  been  recently  published  on  Alaska.  The  interest  of  the  book 
centres  round  the  tiny  Pribyloff  group,  on  the  170th  meridian  west,  and  some 
200  miles  north  of  the  Aleutian  island  Nikolsky.  Here,  main ly  on  the  islands  of 
St.  Paul  and  St.  George,  every  summer  assemble  hundreds  of  thousands  of  the 
fur-seal  (Cdllorhintis  wninus)  for  breeding  purposes,  and  Mr.  Elliott's  account 
of  the  life  of  the  animals,  their  battles  and  domestic  arrangements,  from  his  own 
observations  some  twelve  years  ago,  forms  a  fascinating  contribution  to  natural 
history.  He  also  tells  us  much  about  the  other  animal  life  of  these  regions,  and 
especially  of  the  Aleutian  Islands,  and  of  the  results  which  have  followed  the 
advent  of  the  white  hunter  both  on  these  and  on  the  native  population.  But 
around  this  as  a  nucleus  we  have  a  valuable  account  of  the  physical  conditions 
of  Alaska  and  its  islands,  and  much  useful  information  on  the  ethnology  of 
the  region.  The  author  gives  a  sketch  of  the  history  of  the  country  from  its 
discovery  down  to  the  present  time,  bringing  together  into  handy  form  a  great 
deal  of  information  concerning  the  doings  of  the  Kussians  until,  about  twenty 
years  ago,  they  sold  the  country  to  the  United  States.  Mr.  Elliott's  account 
of  Alaska  takes  the  form  of  a  voyage  around  its  coasts  and  islands, 
with  a  series  of  pictures  or  descriptions  of  the  different  regions,  as  well 
as  of  the  interior  so  far  as  is  known.  A  chapter  is  devoted  to  the  special 
features  of  the  Sitkan  region  and  another  to  the  aboriginal  life  of  the  Sitkans. 
The  alpine  region  around  Mount  St.  Elias  is  dealt  with  in  another  chapter, 
and  there  is  a  long  and  instructive  chapter  on  Eadiak  Island,  and  a  shorter  one 
on  Cook's  Inlet  and  its  people.  The  great  Aleutian  group  is  treated  in  consider- 
able detail,  each  leading  island,  its  people,  their  settlements,  and  their  life, 
receiving  special  notice.  Another  long  chaper  is  devoted  to  the  Yukon,  "the 
Mississippi  of  Alaska,"  from  its  source  to  the  sea ;  all  this  in  addition  to  the 
chapters  which  deal  with  animal  life.  Mr.  Elliott  speaks  to  a  large  extent 
from  his  own  personal  investigations,  but  has  also  taken  the  trouble  to  digest 
and  bring  together  the  work  of  others  who  have  explored  a  land  of  great 
geographical  interest.  There  are  numerous  good  illustrations,  maps  of  St.  Paul 
and  St.  George's  islands,  and  a  fair  map  of  Alaska  on  the  scale  of  75  miles 
to  an  inch. 

Eappler,  Angnst. — Surinam,  sein  Land,  seine  Natur,  Bevolkerung  imd  seine 
Kultur-Verhaltnisse,  mir  Bezug  auf  Eolonisation.  Stuttgart,  Cotta,  1887  :  8vo., 
pp.  384.    Price  St.    [Presented  by  the  author.] 

Mr.  Eappler,  who  was  formerly  an  oflBcial  in  Dutch  Guiana,  presents  in  this 
little  volume  a  succinct  and  well-arranged  account  of  its  geographical  and 
industrial  conditions.  He  deals  first  with  the  country  and  its  configuration 
then  follow  chapters  on  its  plant  and  animal  life,  its  climatic  condition,  the 
various  inhabitants  and  the  social  condition  of  the  colony,  the  town  of  Para- 
No.  IL— Fbb.  1887.]  L 


134 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 


maribo,  on  European  ooloQisation,  and  oa  colonial  f^riculture.  Tbe  author  has 
Bome  useful  pages  on  the  subject  of  colonisation  of  tropical  countries  by  Euro* 
jieaos,  and  on  this  subject  ho  takes  a  more  than  usualiy  hopeful  viow,  and  at 
the  same  time  gives  som^  useful  practical  advice.  There  is  a  small  sketcb-map 
which  shows  how  little  we  really  know  of  the  country^ 

OhtTf  Frederick  A.^ — CampHiu  theCarribbees;  The  Adventures  of  a  Naturalist 
ill  the  Lcs.scr  Antilles.  Edmburghj  Douglas,  188G;  8vo.,  pp.  xviii.  and  366* 
Price  12«. 

This  is  one  of  the  best  authorities  wo  liave  on  the  geography  and*  natural 
history  of  the  group  of  islands  which  stretch  between  Porto  Rico  and  Trinidad, 

Bosny,  LuciaE  de^^Lea  Antilles,  Iiltude  d*ethnographie  et  d'arcbeologie  Amdri- 
caines,  [Memoires  do  la  Societ(5  d'Ethnogmphie.  Nouvelle  Scrie. — Tonio 
Second.]  Paris,  Maiaonneuvo  FrCres  &  Charles  Leclerc,  188*j:  4to.,  pp.  152, 
Price  6».  Bd. 

GENERAL, 

Fortescue,  G*  K, — A  Subject  Index  of  tbe  Modem  Works  added  to  the  Library  of 
the  British  Museum  in  the  years  1880-85.      Printed  by  order  of  tlie  Trustees. 
^    Sold  at  the  British  Museum ;  and  by  Longmans  &  Co.,  Quaritch,  Asber  Sc  Co., 
and  Triibner  &  Co,     London,  188G :  imp.  8vo,,  pp.  [4J  and  1014.     Price  42s, 

This  index  is  mainly  designe^l  to  assist  those  who  uso  the  reading  room  of 
the  British  Museum,  but  it  is  well  calculated  to  fulfil  a  wider  purpose.  The 
index  is  arranged  alphabetically  according  to  subjects,  and  oontaius  works  in  all 
literary  languages  except  Slavonic,  Hungarian,  and  the  Oriental  languages,  Tho 
compiler  would  have  found  it  useful  in  some  cases  to  have  had  the  assistance 
of  spcciilists^thoUji^h  so  far  as  the  geographical  subjects  are  concerned  they  seem 
to  us  Biitis factory,  and  hi  tins  respect  the  Index  wull  be  found  (jf  much  servict*. 

Hauaer,  [Capt.]  Pa'Ql.--Die  Aeqator-DurchgliEge  dea  Mondes,  Eine  Unter- 
auchungs-Probe  des  Mond-EinGussea  auf  die  Wittenmg.  Buccari  bai  Flume, 
Dmck  von  Rudolf  Desselbrunner,  1886 :  tsm,  8vo,,  pp.  15,  tables. 

Lawrence  I  Edwin-^The  Progress  of  a  Century  ;  or,  the  Age  of  Iron  and  Steam, 
London,  IL  Vickers  &  John  Hey  wood,  188(J :  square  8vo.,  pp.  30.  [Presented 
by  the  Author.] 

Fetherick,  Edwin  Aug^ustas.— Catalogue  of  the  York  Gate  Library  formed  by 
Mr,  S.  William  Silver,  an  Index  to  the  Literature  of  Geography,  Maritime  and 
loland  Discovery,  Commerce,  and  Colonisation.  2ud  edition.  London,  John 
Murray :  imp.  8?o.,  pp.  cxxxii.  and  333.  Price  42*.  [Presented  by  S*  W.  Silver, 
Esq.] 

The  new  edition  of  the  catalogue  of  Mn  Silvers  well  knowTi  York  Gate 
Library  is  at  least  four  times  tho  size  of  the  first  edition  published  in  1882. 
Mr.  Petherick  has  performed  his  arduous  and  dilljcult  task  very  creditably,  and 
the  result  is  a  catalogue  which  will  be  of  great  service  for  reference.  lu  some 
respects  Mr,  Silver's  library  is  unique  aa  a  private  colloction,  esj^ecially  Ida 
inre  and  valuable  **  Collections."  In  colonial  literature  it  is  particularly  strong. 
Mr,  Petherick  has  taken  great  pains  in  the  arrangement  of  the  catalogue.  We 
have  first  a  catalogue  of  subjects,  and  then  a  long  catalogue  of  authors,  followed 
by  the  general  catalogue-  The  first  two  sections  of  this  last  are  devoted  to 
general  geography,  and  Transactions  and  Collections,  followed  by  geneml  voyages 
imd  travels  arranged  geographically.  The  two  concluding  sections  are  devoted 
to  Christian  missions,  and  to  bibliography  and  catalogues.  An  attractive  feature 
is  the  reproduction  of  the  illustratol  title-pages  and  other  illustrations  from  the 
old  collections  and  other  classical  works,  beautifully  and  faithfully  executed. 
Afl  a  collection  of  standard  and  rare  geographical  works,  Mr.  SUver'a  collection 
is  a  valuable  one,  and  it  .should  be  known  that  he  places  it  freely  at  the  service 
of  any  one  desirous  of  making  serious  use  of  it. 


I 
I 


NEW  GEOORAPniCAL  P^BL^CATIONS• 


18S 


Beiter«  [Dr.]  Hanns*— Die  Siidpolarfragc  und  ibre  BedeutUDg  fiir  die  genetiBolie 
GlJedenmg  der  Erdoberflaclie.  Weimar,  Geo^ftpliischcs  Institute  188G :  imp,  8vo», 
pp.  34*     [Presented  by  the  author.] 

Dr.  Reiter's  dissertation  is  of  special  importance  at  tlie  present  lime,  seeing 
that  the  question  of  tlie  renewal  of  Antarctic  exploration  ia  in  the  air.  Tho 
author  not  only  gives  a  rtsume  of  all  that  has  been  done»  but  very  forcibly 
shows  the  value  of  the  knowledge  to  be  acquired  /or  tlie  solution  of  certain 
questions  in  physical  geograpliy. 

Scherzer,  [Br.]  Karl  [von].-- Die  Wirthachafllicho  Leben  der  Yolker.  Ein 
Haudbuch  tiber  Production  und  Cousum.  Leipzig,  A Iphons  Diirr,  1885:  8vo., 
pp,  x\.  and  756.     Price  IBs.  Grf.     [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

llic  name  of  our  Honorary  Fellow,  Dr.  von  Scherzer,  is  well  known,  among 
other  things,  in  connection  with  the  pnblications  on  the  Kffvara  voyage,  tho 
8tatistico>oominercial  resnlti?  of  which  were  issued  b}^  him  twenty  years  ago* 
The  preseDt  work  was  originally  intended  to  be  an  expansion  of  tlie  former; 
but  Dr.  von  Scherzer  soon  found  that  progress  had  been  so  great,  and  the  addi- 
tional data  so  abundant,  that  an  entirely  new  book  was  necessary  if  the  field 
were  to  be  adequatjcly  covered.  We  have  tlms  a  large  and  valuable  collection 
of  facts  and  figures  illustrating  the  industrial  refiulls  of  man's  action  on  his 
geographical  surroundings,  results  which  may  he  of  service  to  those  who  are 
cultivating  the  new  geogiaphy.  The  Author  deals  in  successive  chapters  with 
materials  from  tho  vegetable,  animal,  and  inineral  kingdoms,  in  their  various 
applications  by  humanity.  A  separate  chapter  deals  with  chemical  industries, 
and  another  with  mechanical  inventions.  A  specially  interesting  chapter  is 
that  which  deals  with  the  share  taken  by  different  races  in  tho  trade  of  tho 
world.  Other  chapters  deal  with  money  and  credit,  and  means  of  communi- 
cation, and  his  final  cbapterH  with  "  industry  !vs  an  organism,"  tarifTs,  con- 
sulates, exhibitions,  and  what  the  author  calls  "  international  exchange  of 
ideas/'  and  with  emigration  and  eolonigation. 

Behick,  [Capt.1  A^^Beobachtungen  der  Misswcisung,  JnklJnation  und  Schwing- 
ungszeit  der  ilagnetuadel  auf  der  Kllm  und  der  Nordsee  xwischen  Hamburg  und 
Eouen  1884  und  1885,  London  und  Hamburg  1S8G.  Scparat-Abdruck  aus  don 
Abhandlungen  des  Natnr\^isscnschartlichen  Yereins  von  Hamburg,  Band  ix. 
Heft  2,  1886 :  4to,,  pp.  40,  tables,     [Preaented  by  the  Author.] 

Stephen,  LeBlie.^Dictionary  of  National  Biography.  Vol.  IX,  Canute — Chaloner 
Lotjcion,  Smith,  Elder  ife  Co.,  1B87  t  8vo.,  pj..  vi.  and  460.     Price  I2s.  GfL 

ffoeikoff,  [Br J  A. — Die  Klimatc  der  Erde.  Nacb  dem  Rusiiischen.  Yom  Ycr- 
ksser  besorgte,  bedeutend  veriinderte  deutschc  Bearbeitung.  Jena,  Gostonoble; 
2  vols.  8vo,;  voh  i.  pp.  39€,  vol.  ii.  pp.  xxiii,  and  422.     Price  20s, 

The  name  of  Dr,  Woeikoff  must  be  known  to  most  meteorologists  as  that 
of  one  who  in  recent  years  lias  done  much  gocnl  work  in  his  own  department  of 
science.  He  has  tmvelled  over  most  of  the  world,  with  a  special  view  to  the 
collection  of  meteorological  data.  The  results  of  his  own  observations  and  of 
those  of  other  writers  ia  the  same  department,  he  lias  emlK>dicd  in  these  two 
volumes,  which  wc  are  sure  will  be  Jbund  of  great  ser^'icc  to  the  physical 
geographer;  and  it  should  be  remembered  that  Dr,  W<xikolT  is  Professor  of 
Physical  Geography  in  St.  Petersburg  University.  It  covers  a  wider  field 
than  the  works  of  either  Hanu  or  Scott,  and  we  regret  to  say  tliat  the  long- 
promised  new  edition  of  Buchan*s  Metei»rulugy  has  not  yet  made  its  appearance. 
The  German  edition  is  nut  a  mere  tranylatiou  of  the  Russian  edition  published 
four  years  ago ;  there  have  been  many  improveraenta  and  addiUous,  The  first 
part  of  the  work  deals  with  general  meteorology,  discussing  temperatures  and 
air-currents ;  moisture*  clouds,  and  deposition ;  rivers  and  hakes  as  the  results 
of  climate ;  the  inftuence  of  a  snow-covering  on  climate,  and  the  climatic 
conditions  of  permanent  snow  and  glaciers;  watcr-temfKiraturca ;  variations  in 
the  distribution  uf  tempemture  on  land  and  water,  and  their  iofluenee  on  the 
temperature  of  the  earth ;  daily  and  yearly  variations  in  the  temi)erature  of 

L  2 


13G 


NEW  MAPS. 


the  air,  of  moisture,  of  atmospheric  preMure  and  wiotls;  vamtion  of  tern- 
|>eratiire  with  altitude  in  mountaiDoiLS  countries^  and  in.  the  free  atmosphere; 
influence  of  climate  on  vegetation,  and  of  vegetation  on  climate ;  non-periodical 
variatiouB  of  tem|>eraturc  and  rainfall ;  daily  variations  of  temperature  ;  general 
remarks  on  the  distrihution  of  temperature,  presHurc,  winofl,  and  moisture. 
The  second  volume  deals  in  a  Beries  of  chapters  with  the  special  meteorology 
of  different  redona  and  countries,  and  the  whole  is  illuatrated  by  a  series  of  cart;- 
fully  exccutefdiagrams.  ITie  work  will  certainly  become  a  standard  reference 
work  on  an  important  subject,  though  probably  some  of  Dr.  WocikofFs  theories 
will  not  cum  maud  universal  assent  among  meteorologists.  Wc  should  have  liked 
an  alphabetical  index  in  addition  to  the  full  table  of  contents  wMch  is  given* 


The  following  works  have  also  been  added  to  the  Library  :— 

Oape  Oolouy*  Correapoudenco  respecting  the  Affairs  of  Poodolaud.  London, 
printed  by  Eyre  &  Spottiswoode,  1885  :  folio^  pp.  iv.  and  25.  Price  4<i.  [Pre- 
sented by  Lord  Arthur  KusselL] 

Oentral  Asia.  Ko.  4  (1885).-^Further  CorresjMndonoe  concerning  Central  Aaia* 
[In  coutinuation  of  **  Central  Asia  Ko.  2  ;  1885.'*]  London,  printed  by  Harrison 
&  Sons :  folio,  pp.  vi,  and  76,  maps*  Price  3s.  2d,  [Presented  by  Lord  Arthur 
Ttussdb] 

Greea^  John  Bichard^  and  Alice  Stopford.^A  Short  Geography  of  the  British 
Islauds.  With  maps.  London,  Hacmillan  &  Co.,  1884 :  12mo.,  pp.  xix. 
and  41G. 

New  Guinea  and  the  Western  Pacific  Islands-  Further  Correspondcnco 
respecting  New  Guinea  and  other  Islands  in  the  Western  PaciBc  Ocean.  (In 
continuation  of  [C— 4217]  Ocfcl^er  1884.)  Ix)ndoD,  printed  by  Eyro  and 
Spottiswoode,  1885:  folio,  pp.  xx.  and  106.  Price  2».  [Presented  by  lA>rd 
Arthur  llussclL] 

~ Ditto.    (In  continuation  of  [C— 4273]  February  1885.)    London,  printed 

by  Eyre  and  SpottiewotKle,  1885  ;  folio,  pp.  xv,  and  20G.    Price  2s.  id,    [Pre*  i 
st'nted  by  Lord  Arthur  lUiswilL] 

Transvaal.  Further  Correspondcnco  respecting  the  AfTairs  of  the  Transvaal  and 
Adjacent  Territories.  (In  continuation  of  [C. — ^i432]  of  May  1885.)  London, 
priutt^d  by  Eyre  &  Si>ottiawoodc,  1885  t  folio,  pp.  vii,  and  120.  Price  2jj.  U, 
[Presented  by  Lord  Arthur  Hussell] 


I 

I 
I 


NEW  MAPS. 
(By  J.  Coles,  Map  Curator,  r.q.s.) 


H 


EUROPE. 

Attika^^Karten  von  ™,  Auf  Vcrankasuug  dea  Kaiscrlich  Deutschen  Archiolo- 
gischen  Jnstitiits  und  mit  UnterstUtzung  dcs  Kuniglich  Prcussischeu  Ministoriiims 
dor  Gtjistlichen,  Unterrichts-  und  MedicioaUAngelegenheiten.  Aufgenommcn 
durch  Offiziere  und  Heamto  des  k.  Preussischen  Grossen  Geo erals tabes,  niit 
erlautcradem  Text  hcraus^etjjebcu  von  E.  Curtins  nnd  J,  A.  Kaui)ert,  Heft  IV", 
Yicr  Bliitter,     Scale  1 :  25,000  or  2'L^  inches  to  a  geo^aphical  nule. 

BL  XIL — Pcntelikou.     Aufgenommcn  und  gezeichnet  Ton  R,  Wolff, 

Bl.  XIII.— Markopulo.     Aufj^enoramen  und  gezeichnet  von  R.  AVolff. 

Bl  X 1  v.— Cap  Sunion  (West).   An  fgcnommen  und  gezeichnet  von  v.  Bemhardi. 

HI  XV,— Ce^p  Sunion  ((>st).     Aufgenommen  und  gezeichnet  von  \\  Bemhardi. 
Berlin  1886.    Dietrich  Reimer.    (^Dtdau,) 

These  are  moat  beautifully  executed  maps ;  the  hilUwork,  which  ia  shown 


NEW  MAPS.  187 

by  a  combination  of  hatching  and  contonr  lines,  is  coloured  in  sepia.  Ancient 
names  and  positions  are  marked  in  rcxi,  and  the  heights  of  the  mountains  are 
given  in  metres,  the  contours  of  the  hills  being  for  differences  of  20  metres 
in  level.  This  issue,  as  also  the  previous  one  (III.)*  is  i^o^  accompanied  by 
explanatory  letterpress,  but  a  notice  is  printed  on  the  cover  informing  the 
public  that  these  will  be  published  when  the  map  is  complete. 

Prankreich. — Uebersichts-Earte  von  Nordostlichen,  nebst  Grenzlandern  mit  Be- 
festigungen  der  I.  franzos.  Vertheidigungslinie.  A.  Front  der  Maaslinie. — B.  Front 
der  MoBsllinie. — C.  Front  von  Belfort  Scale  1 : 1,000,000  or  13  '6  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.    G.  O'Grady.    Kassell,  Theodor  Fischer.    Price  2«.    (Dtdau,) 

Italiane. — Carta  dclle  Strade  Ferrate in  esercizio,  in  costruzione,  in  progetto 

ed  alio  studio  tramways  a  vapore,  scali  marittimi  e  stazioni  lacuali  corredata  delle 
distanze  chilometriche,  indici  alfabetici  delle  stazioni,  zone  di  vigilanza  dogaoale 
ed  altre  indicazioni  e  compilata  in  base  al  nuovo  ordinamento  suUa  scorta  di 
documenti  nfficiali  da  Enrico  Gambillo  e  Cesare  Piattoli,  applicati  all'  Ufficio 
ControUo  Veicoli  delle  Strade  Ferrate  Meridionali.  Bologna,  1886.  Four  sheets. 
Price  4s.  ed.    (Dulau,) 

Ke^'erda. — ^Das  Deltaland  des  ,  und  die  Landschaft  von  Tunis,  Karthago, 

UUca  und  Biserta.  Qez.  von  Th.  Fischer.  Scale  1 : 400,000  or  5*5  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.  With  sections.  Petermann's  *  Geographische  MitteiluYigen,' 
Jahrgang  1887,.Taf.  1.    Justus  Perthes,  Gotha.    (Dulau,) 

Oesterreich. — Sprachen-Karte  der  Westlichen  Kronlander  von .    Nach  dem 

Zenzus  von  1880,  entworfen  von  F.  Held  auf  C.  Vogers  Karte  von  Oesterreich- 
Ungam.  Scale  1: 1,500,000  or  20*4  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Petermann's 
'Geographische  Mitt«ilungen,'  Jahrgang  1887,  Taf.  2.  Justus  Perthes,  Grotha. 
(Dulau.) 

Polen. — Handkartcn  von  Russisch  ,  und  den  angrenzendcn  Gouvemments  von 

O'Grady.  Scale  1:1,750,000  or  23*  9  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Price  Is. 
{Dulau.) 

Tubingen. — Umgebungs-Karte  fur  die  Gamisonstadt.  1 :  25,000  or  2*9  inches  to 
a  geographical  mile.    Tiibingen,  Fues.    Price  Ss.    {Dulau.) 

ORDNANCE  SURVEY  MAPS. 

Pablicatlotu  Itsned  dnrlng  the  month  of  December  188e. 
l-inch— Oenerml  M«ps  :— 

£kqla2(d  akd  Wales  :  Sheet  274,  Kew  Series  (Hill  Shaded),  U. 

SooTLASTD :  127  (OatUne),  90  (Hilli).  1«.  9d.  each. 
O-inoh— Comity  Maps:— 

£voLAin>  AKD  Walxb:  Bedfordshire:  23  S.W.,  25  N.E.,  28  S.E.;  i«.  each.  Brecknock- 
shire :  35  N.W..  S.E. ;  U.  each.  Buckinflrliainshire :  31.  2«.  ^d.  Oambridsreshire :  12 
N.W,  N.E.,  13  N.W..  aw.,  17  N.W..8.W:.  8.E.,  18  S.W..  21  N.R.  22  N.W..  n!e.  S.W.,  8.E.. 
23  N.W.,  25  N.W..  N.E..  S.W..  31  S.W.,  36  N.E,  S.E.,  39  N.W.,  N.E..  8.W..  S.E.,  40  N.W..N.E.. 
46  N.W.,  N.R,  S.W..  8.E.,  62  N.E..  RE.,  63  N.E. ;  l#.  each.  Oardiflranshire :  7  N.E.,  S.E.. 
9  S.E.,  11  N.E..  14  S.W. ;  1*.  each.  Oarmarthensllire :  16  N.W..  N.E.,  S.W..  S.E. ;  l#.  each. 
Bevonshire :  99  8.W..  119  S.E.,  125  N.W.,  S.W..  126  NJi,  S.E.,  127  S.W. ;  1«.  each.  Dorset- 
shire: 8  N,\\V  S.W,  S.i;.,  Ji.  \,\\.,  Uf,  .iLiu  Glout-tfritertiiiire;  62  N.E.,  S.E.,  63  S.E., 
64  N.W.,  71  N.E.,  7a  N,IL,  7fl  N,E. ;  I*,  pach.  Herefordsliire  t  -^4  N.W.,  32  S.E.,  33  S.W.. 
36  N.W.,  41  N.E. ;  It.  tacU.  i^idesterahire  i  M  S.i:.,  ;ic  s,i:„  4J  N.W.,  N.E,  48  S.E.,  60  N.E., 
S.E.;  1*.  each.  Ltncoteshlre  :  4  S;VV,  arxi  S,E.  Di]  ouu  ebtei,  7  N-\V^..  S.W.,  S.E.,  8  N.W.,  S.W., 
SJi.l2  N.W.,  20  N,W..  iN.t.,  63  N.W.,  N.t:,S.IL.  VI  N.W.,  S.W.,  77  N.li..S.E..  85  S.E..  96  N.E.. 

.  S.E.,  122  N.i:. ;  ]r  {-nch.  Moiimouthshlre :  >^t  I9,  26;  It.  64.  CAirh.  Montiroznery- 
shire:  4  N.E..  S.K.,  26  N.W.,  H.K^  S.W.,  S.E.,  34  N.W.;  If.  each.  Norfolk :  21  SJEL,  67  N.E., 
68  N.W.,  N,K.,  aw.,  S.E.,  »0  K.W.,  N.E.,  &W.,  S>J'l.  a  I  S.^V^.  DI  N.W.;  1#.  each.  North- 
amptonshire :  ^  ^^^^  21  s^E.,  'ist  i^,E, ;  tjr.  «idj.  Oxfprdflklrd  \  :u ;  2«.  ed.  Somerset- 
shire :  37  N.W..  N.E.,  8.W.,  S.E..  38  N.W..  S.W..  S.E.,  81  N.W..  89  S.W.,  92  N.W.,  93  N.W. ; 
U.  each.  Suffolk :  30  S.E.,  83  N.E.,  90  N.W.  and  S.W.  on  one  sheet ;  U.  each.  Warwick- 
shire: 18  aE..  19  N.K.  20  N.W.,  S.E..  22  N.E.,  8.E..  23  N.E..  S.E.,  24  N.E.,  S.E.,  26  S.W., 

28  S.E,  44  N.W. ;  i».  each.    Wiltshire :  18  N.E. ;  u.    Worcestershire :  11  N.E. ;  1*. 
85-inch— Pariah  Maps  :* 

EvoLAKD  Ain>  Walks:  Oambridflreshire :  XLI.  9,  XLVil.  9. 10. 11. 12, 13. 14. 16, 16.  XI.VIII. 
2.  31.  each ;  XLVUI.  6.  4#. ;  XLVIU.  6,  XLDL  6.  6.  LIV.  3,  4,  6,  9. 10, 12, 3».  each ;  LI V.  13.  4». ; 
LIV.  14,  LV.  9,  LVill.  2,  3t.  each ;  LYIU.  5,  At. ;  LYIIL  6,  LIX.  3,  3,  6, 10, 11,  L2LI.  6,  U.  each. 


138 


NEW  MAPS. 


Carmartlienfliire :  XX VII.  9,  lo,  ii.  3*.  f&th  \  \XXUL  is.  4*.  Cornwall :  Atti  Mki 
KUlcbmiiptou,  2*.  Derbjrahire  :  X^-  5t  3^.  BevonsMre :  IV.  a,  :;,  g,  lo,  C.  T,  ll,0?T 
16.  CVIJI.  («,  12,  IW  CXIV.  6.  CXXVL  H,  CXXXH.  4,  7,  CXXXIlI.i.  3*.  eneli.  Area  B 
AubwAtert  3«,  6c^> ^  Bradloni  If.  6ti.;  Bridntowe,  It.  (kL;  Oookbary,  It.;  UuUijcomb^  m. ;  Ifcile- 
wortliy,  U«.  M, ;  Mtjlton  JJamefel,  K.  Cd.  j  Paiicniawt«k,  It,  (kL  ?  SoiirtoDf  It.  6(i.|  8«tcombo.  It. 
Olouceatershire I  XIT.  10»  3t.  Area  Hooka:  AshcTmrch,  CliarUon  Abbots,  lUdbrook,  l^i'i- 
martL't),  yunhainnTon,  Haflos,  TodenhnTii,  Upper  JSUughter,  Is.  «aclk  Herefordshire:  11.  I&t 
VJ.  JO,  Vli  y,  illL  la,  3J.  imb;  XI.  7.  -**.;  XIII.  1,  6.  li.  XIV.  10.  U,  XVIIL  2,  3#.  racli; 
XV^JiL  3.  4x.;  XVIII.  4,  5,  e,  7.  «.  XIX.  11,  15»  IG.  XX.  12.  15,  XXL  X  7.  3J.  ertcb.  Huntinffdon- 
sblre :  XVIil.  o.  lo,  XXll.  i,  5,  6,3t.  emch,  L&noaBhire :  XLVU.  4,  at,  I«elc«flteraiiLre: 
XXXL  L  4t.;  XXXI.  'J,  6,  XXXV.  I.  at.  c*ch;  XLTV.  U,  4i  ;  XLlV.  12,  IS,  3«.  cncb;  XLV.  L% 
4t.  ;  XLLX«  7,  12.  L.  »,  10,  3*.  eacb  ;  L.  13,  4a. ;  LI  11.  i>,  13,  3t.  OAcb.  Are*  Hix»fca :  Breedon  on  llic 
HtlU  lb*t<<k»  NrthoT  ADd  Over  Seal,  Swcfatonc :  1  s,  cacb.  I^incolnslllre :  V.  12,  X.  1 ,  3*.  cjwb ; 
X-  a,  4t. ;  X.  tt,  »,  11,  12,  13,  16.  XVI.  12  and  XVJ!,  fl  on  (jne  ebeel ;  XVIJ.  5,  iS,  3*.  each;  XVJL 
JB,  XXVJ.  1,  4t.  each  ;  XXVJ.  2,  3*. ;  XXVI.  3.  4*, ;  XXVL  4»  6.  S.  7,  S^,  13,  XXXIU.  ».  XXXl  V.  1 , 

2,  3,  7,  12,  XLTV.  4,  3t.  each;  XLIV.  16,4*.;  LI.  6,  k,  LiLfi.  1L  1S»  LI.  2,  3.  LXl.  8,  3,4.  7.8» 
CXU'.  0, 10.  CXXHI,  2,  6,  6.  CL.  12.  3*.  each.  MontKomeryaMrB  :  XIV.  U,  XXL  15.  XXII. 
3,^  B.  13.  H,  XXJII.  6.  XXIV.  1.  XXVIIL  3,  5.  XXX IV.  U.  XXXV.  2.  II.  XLL  L  S.  «,  13,  XLIJ. 

3,  0,  6.  XLVIL  5,  e.  13,  LL  2,  c,  3#.  cacb.    Norfolk;  XUI.  12,  St. ;  XIII.  ic.  XIV.  2,  4.  4i.  e*cb ; 

XIV.  6,  fl,  12,  13,  XV.  1,  2.  3,  4.  6.  6,  7,  9,  10.  11,  I'i.  13.  14,  XV.  15,  XVL  4,  IJ,  XVII.  2,3, 
XVIL  4,  a.  6,  y,  n.  12.  13,  XVIIl.  1.  3.  4,6.  6.3*.  each;  XVllI.  7,  5t.;  XVIIL  8,  9.  10,  11,  13,  13. 
XVIII,  14.15,  16,  XIX.  2.3,  6,  7,  t*.  9,  12.  13.  XX.  2»5,3j.eadij  XX,  7,  10.  4t,  eacb;  XI.  11,  12, 
13.  14,  16.  XX,A.  13,  at.  eocb^  XXVIIL  14,  fit. ;  XXXLX.  10,  3#.;  XXXIX.  11.  12,  XL.  16,  3*.  each  ; 
XL.  16,  LXVI.  11,  41.  cadi;  LXXVIL  L  a*  3t.  lacli ;  LXXVIL  9.  14,  o.  <?acli;  LXXXVIll.  2,  3», 
LXXXVML3,  4t.i  LXXXVIU.  D.  3#.;  IJeXXVHl.  8,  It.;  LXXXIX.  I,  3jr. ;  CX.  1,  fl.  4i.  etob. 
Area  IJookii:  Ilablngicv,  tTiedgnive  (detacbcd  No«.  I  and  2).  Dickkburgb,  Tilbj,  GorboklUbaDi, 
Oooderstorir,  Setnilton,  kbouklbam,  Sbonldbam  Tbijrpe,  8'naLk  Pickenhacn,  8<.«iith  Euncton,  Stanfonl, 
Tunftiill,  WalUngton  cum  Ttiorpirtiwi,  It.  each.  NorthamptonBhlre:  I.  12,  ^U.;  L  15,  16. 
4i.  eadj;  VllL  1.  2,  fi,  0,  10.  13,  XV.  fl,  10.  3t.  each;  XV.  13,  4j.;  XV.  14,  XXIL  13,  XXVII. 
a,  4,  7,  H.  &,  11,  13,  14,  XXXIX.  6.  XLVIII,  4,  «,  3t.  fJMfb.  Area  Bwik*:  Abiborpe,  ApplrtTet', 
liadbye  ciittiosby,  (Tfiarwi'ltnn.  tlilppbig  Waalen,  Ci^igroi*',  Crou^^ktoD,  Eo-stort  Alciudlt.  £v<?ub.'y, 
FiirthlnBljoe,  Fawnley,  Fnrtho,  Grcatwrirtli,  Hifllidon,  Kinpi'a  Suit/jn  with  Newl^rtlc,  Ma^i^tjui 
-I^L  TjLwreDee,  Mlddleton  Cheney,  p4u*eiihaiH.  Itmlerspury  (ruiterftpiiiTy.  roitir^pury  1^  lu-  1  .vm 
and  Wliltllcfrood  Forest),  Silventtone,  Staverion,  8l<?ane,  Stnchbury,  Syreflnm.  1  linrp^  M  .;,  i.  ■-  i  I  , 
Wappenbam.  Warkwortb,  Wbltilt^burr,  Wickfn,  Yardk'y  <ir>bloii.  It.  ^m-Yu  NottiiiKham- 
»hir«:  HL  B.  IV.  1,7,  12,  13,  VIII.  is,  XL  5.  XilL  l,  4,  5.  «,  w,  XIV.  4.  3*,  earb.  Area  tlo<>ka : 
JSIlstljorpp.  Culwick,  Klttwboroiigb,  Wirickliurn,  li.  e<ii:b.  Rutland:  X.  12,  3*.;  X.  1ft.  4». 
Shropabire;  Area  Bucks:  t'leobnry  MortiiniT,  It.  tkj.;  Luiij^kiorv,  Middleton  Scriven,  SUbury, 
1*.  rael],  SosieriietBlilre ;  XIV.  3  and  4  on  one  »bpet,  XXXIX.  in,  13,  4t.  «»ch;  LI.  6,  Jl*. ; 
LL  6,  4*.  ;  LL  1^,  UK  :i*.  each;  LL  14,  LIL  6.  LIH.  ft,  LX1H,  1,  4t,  ejidi ;  LXllL  2,  3,  3t.  eacli ; 
1JCIIL4,  6,  41.  I'tirh;  LXIIL  7.  t*,  LXIV.  L  2,  3.  6.  7.  3*.  eacb;  LXIV.  14,  4f. ;  LXV.  11,  St.: 
LXV.  13,  4a. ;  LXVL  2.  LWl.  3.  fl.  and  1  on  one  Bhett,  13.  3t.  cacb.  Area  Boctk*:  I>Tmdry,Klii|rrt"n 
SeynMmf,  Mttrik*i'ur\',  Nurth  8tok<%  Norlon  Hawk  bo  Id,  Publiw,  gueen  Charlton,  Wr-Htou  inGordAm>» 
It.  cacli;  Staff  or  dab  ire  :  LXIIL  U^t^  Aira  Ikxk  ■  ShertIT  Ualcs  (part  ufX  It.  Smffolk:  XXV, 
J,  4»,;  XXV.  6,  3*.;  XXV.  6,  4t.;  XLIL  9,  31.;  LVL  4,  4«. ;  LVL  7,  *i^.  t,d.;  LVI.  fl.  LXXIL  6, 
1JCXL6,  LXXIL  U,  3<i.  ettdi;  LXXIL  15.  5t. ;  LXXIV.  3.  11,  IS.  LXXXI.  ir>.  3t.  Area  Itooks : 
Miirkt^t  Wei«t*ni  and  IHUo  (diftached),  OITi'iii,  It.  eacii.  WarwickBhir©:  XXIII.a,  13,  XLIIL  2, 
nt.  each.     XLFV.  7,  4t.i  XLV.  3,  6,  7.  XLVI.  1,  2.  3,  4,  0,  »,  9.  10,  13.  13^  LI.  B,  3#.  tach  ;  LL 

12,  a*.;  LIL  L  2.  3,  C.  7,  f.  LIV.  i.  S,  6.  1  *,  3t,  *45tkj.  Area  Book:  I'rlcra  Mi*rston,  Itj  Wilt- 
ahlre:  XIIL  L3t.;  XXV.  13,  4t,;  XXVIIL  S,  8,iJ.  10,  VI,  13,  10,  XXIX.  4,  7,  8,  11.  12,  13,  I4, 
IB.  16,  XXXIX.  3,  4,  e,  at.  each;  XXXIX,  7.  8,  4t.ea<:bi  XXXIX.  10,  11.  12.  13.  14.  IS.  1«,  XL. 

13.  16,  3t.  eacb.  Worooeterahlre :  XXVIIL  12,  4f.;  xxxiiL  12,  I6,  XLIV.  4,  LIL  1,  fi, 
LV.  10,  3jr.  ejiils.  Arra  Book:  Bftmw,  Bmbley,  Cbarttoti,  IKtv^rdftlc,  KlnibritlBC, iirimley,  Hwilcy 
Child,  Ilanlt'y  Wltliiun,  Iloll,  Martin  H UFetinprtree,  It,  rjw:b  ;  Amberlcy,  2t. ;  Ktjiihuck,  It,;  Tenbury, 
It.  6tt  J  'IV  hrkbanifurd.  It.    TorkBhire  :  CIJLXXll.  7.  lU,  It,  eaeb. 

Town  Plans— lO-fcel  pcale;— 

Ekolasd  ami  WALKii :  CarobiiJfTP,  XL.  14^  15,  Ifl,  2t.  eadi.  Crewkerne,  LXXXVIIL  16.  -5; 
LXXXIX,  13.  2.  e,  12.  13.  23;  XCIIL  1,  2,3;  2t.  each.  I>evi»e8,  XXXIV.  13,  1".  XXXIV,  14, 
6,  II,  Si.  eat:b»  UmnUuim,  CXUL;16,  14.  2^,  Kellerin^,  XXV.  14.  2,  2t,  Ufcestcr.  XXXI.  15, 
12,  2f.  Sbepton  Mallet.  XLi.  12.  U,  IG,  2t.  cack.  Stratfurd-oti-Avon,  XLIV.  2,  23,24;  XLIV. 
e.  8,  IT,  19, 2t.  <'^itb.  Wells,  XLL  5,  7, 2t,  Wert  Bromwlcb,  LXVllL  10,  iw,  19.  20,  2:1,  2t.  each  ; 
W0lverliHinj>loii.  LXIL  6.  »,  2S.  2*.  each.  YeovH,  LXXXIJL  13,  4,  9,  12,  13,  H.  18,  20,  2S  j 
LXXXili.  14.  II,  li.  13.  Hi  XC,  1,  6.  >,  10,  13,  2t.  trtcb, 

ASIA, 

Indian  Govenimeiit  Surveys  :^ 

Indian  Atlaa :  Quarter  iShects,  12  S,W»  Parts  of  Districta  Halkr  and  Oklio* 
Timndal  (Kuthiawiir,  Bombay  Prceidcricy).  35  N.W,  Parts  of  Oodevfiore,  Gwalior, 
Tonk  and  Jndore  (Native  Stales,  Rnjputana,  nod  Central  India  Agencies).  35  S.E. 
Parts  of  Gwalior,  Oodeyporo,  Partxibgarh,  Indorc,  Jhallawar,  Dewas,  Joara,  and 
BariBwara  (Native  States),  37  8.E.  Parts  of  Kliaodtsb  (Bombay  Presidency)  and 
Indorc  (Central  Indian  Agency).  49  N.E.  Parts  of  Distncti?  llomdabad,  Meenit, 
Miizaffarnagar  and  Bijnor  (N.W.  Provinces),  Delbi,  and  Kamal  (PiinjabX — 
Skeleton  Map  of  India,  128  miles  to  an  incb^  188G,— India,  sliowiug  tbe  progress 
of  the  Iraperial  Surveys  to  October  Ipt,  1885.  128  miles  to  an  inch. — ^The 
External  Trade  Boutos  of  India,  1886.  80  milea  to  an  iDch. — Skeleton  Map  of 
India,  Ci  miles  to  nn  inch,  1886,     2  sheets,— India^  without  hills,  64  milea  to 


KEW  MAPS. 


189 


k 


t 


an  mcli.  4  ^eoU,  aJilitioiiiJ  to  1880* — India,  witli  hills,  64  miles  to  an  mch, 
4  sheets,  additions  to  188G, — Pun j ah  Survey,  1  mile  to  an  inch.  Sheet  No.  174^ 
I>i8tnct  Montgomery.  Seaaons  1^54-5ri-nG.--Ondh  Revenue  Survey,  1  mile  to 
jui  iJicb.  Seasons  18^2-3-4  and  5.  Sheet  No.  163,  Districts  Fyzabiul  and  Sul- 
tanpur,  Xo.  176,  District  Fyxahad,  No.  177,  Districts  FyzalKul  and  SulLinpur. — 
Xocib  West  Provinces  Survey,  1  mile  to  an  inch.  Seasons  1873-74-75-82-83-S4. 
SbeeU  No.  22,  Districts  Aligarh,  Muttm,  and  Gurgaon.  Nos.  I8C,  1«7,  202, 
riistrict  Mirzapur. — Ilyderahod  Survey,  1  mile  to  an  inch.  Sheets  Nos.  30, 31, 32, 
54.  55,  50,  57  (33  and  58),  80,  81,  83,  84  (82  and  108).  Mt>odg:ul  Circar, 
Beaion  1816-17.  Nos.  151, 152,  Daverkondah  Circar  (Isolated  Porlion),  Seasons 
1B21  ami  1824-5.— Cutch,  RedncUon  of  Sheets  3,  4,  10  and  11  (2nd  edition) 
2  mdes  to  an  inch.  Seasons  1880-81  and  1883-84.  Reduction  of  Sheets  17, 18, 
24  and  25*  2  miles  to  an  inch.  Seasons  1881-2  and  1883-4.  Sheets  Nos.  20 
27,  28,  20  of  Cutch.  1  mile  to  an  inch.  Season  1883-4.— Hooghly  Hiver 
SuiTdy.  1  mile  to  an  inch.  Sheets  Nos,  1  and  2.  Seasons  1881-82-83. — Bengal 
Survey.  1  mile  to  an  inch.  Sheet  No.  172.  District  Durbhnnga.  Seasons  1847 
to  40.  Nos.  270,  271,  272^  District  Jalpaio;uri.  Season  1868-5^— The  Province  of 
AfliaiD,  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Chief  Commisgioner,  24  mi  If  s  to  an  inch.  1886. 
— The  Garo  Hills,  Lower  Assam,  4  miles  to  an  inch.  Seasons  1870-71  and  1872 
IQ  71. — Map  of  the  District  of  Bareilly,  compiled  and  revised  from  shoots  of  tlie 
new  Revenue  Survey,  2  miles  to  an  inch.  Seasons  1866  to  72.  2  sheeta.^ — 
Map  of  Kathia war,  reduced  from  the  G.  T.  Survey  Sheets,  16  miles  to  an  inch, 
IfiSO, — The  Patna  Division,  compriHing  the  Districts  of  Chumpiirun,  SArun,  Jlo- 
xuffcrpore,  Durhhunga,  Shilbiibid,  Patna,  and  Gyii,  showing  the  Tirhoot  State 
Kailway,  and  connocte*!  railways  under  the  jurisdiction  L*f  the  Lieut.  Govr. 
of  Bengal.  16  miles  to  an  inch,  l&86.^^District  Midnap*)ie,  4  miles  to  an 
mch»  1886, — Sketch  of  tho  Country  roun<l  Mandale,  2  milc^  to  an  incb,  188*». 
^SUMM/ord,  agent,} 
ialay,  or  East  Indian  ArcMpelago,  witli  Burmah,  Siam,  &c.,  by  Wm.  Shawc, 

r-iLO-S.    Scale  1 : 8,700,000  or  120  geographical  milea  to  an  inch.    G.  Philip  &  Son, 
Lonilon  and  Liverpool,  1887.     Price  Is.,  or  mouutcil  on  cloth  and  in  case,  2s. 

INDIAN  OCEAN, 

Antananarivo  (Madagascar). — The  Environs  of ,  hy  Pere  Desire  Rohlet,  s.j. 

(1862-1882).    Stanford's  Geographical  Establishment,  London ;  Macmillan  &  Co. 


CHABTS, 
Admiralty, — Ohartg  and    Plana    published    by 
Admiralty,  in  November  and  December  1886. 


the    Uydrographic   De|iartment, 


2115 

m 

= 

Inchei. 

0-6 

1461 

m 

= 

7-2 

m 

m 

= 

3-0 

5sa 

m 

-2 

various 

Entrance  to  the  Baltic:— The  Sound  (Plans,  Copen- 
hagen, Ilelsingor  harbour,  Flint  channel)  28.  6<f. 
Italy,  west  coast ;— Genoa.     It.  6d, 

Gulf  of  St  Lawrence,  New  Brunswick,  Shediao  bay 
and  harbour.     Is.  6<i. 

South  America : — Anchorarjes  in  Tiorra  del  Fuego — 
Burnt  island  anchorage,  Baleines  bay,  Fleuriais  bay, 
Awaiakirrh  cove,  liinncr  cove,  Packaaddlo  bay, 
Good  Success  bay,  Lennox  cove,  Townshend  har- 
bour, Doris  oove,  Romanche  bay,  Uahuwaia  Sliaaion 
Station,  Orange  bay,  Goroe  road,  March  harbour, 
Voilier  oove,  Indian  hay,  Coralie  cove,  Middle  cove, 
Adventure  cove,  I^pamVa  bay,  Lort  bay,  Otter, 
Seagull,  and  Romanche  anchorages,  Stewart  har- 
bour, St  Martin  oove.  Port  Maxsvelf»  ScourfleW 
and  Hately  bays.    2s,  G^f. 


!;■■/■■■ 


\     -^ 


■j:v:" 


134 


JMUHB  NAUMAinrS  ptper 
noeocniidiy  of  Japan." 

etic  DecUfMtU      in  red. 


isk   Mfl«a 


Pub*  4 


■rto 


144 


■  '  ..*:-»-;-■•-'■. i-CflK.;.  ■  h^'-HiW 


I 
I 


» 


PBOCEEDINGS 

OF  TBE 

ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  RECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


On  t}i6  Scope  and  Methods  of  Geoymphif, 
By  H,  J.  Mackindeb,  b.a. 

(Ao  Address  delivered  nt  tlie  Evening^  Meeting,  jAnuDry  31  et,  1S$7.) 

What  is  geography?  This  seoius  a  strange  question  to  addresa  to  a 
beographical  Society,  yet  there  arc  at  least  two  reasons  why  it  tih<inhl 
he  answered,  and  answered  now.  In  the  first  place  geographers  have 
''^11  active  of  late  in  prttssing  tlie  claims  of  their  science  to  a  more 
honoured  position  in  the  currit;ulum  of  oiirflchools  and  Universities.  The 
^orld,  and  especially  the  teaching  world,  replies  with  the  tpiestioii, 
"What  is  geography?'*  There  is  a  touch  of  irony  in  the  tone.  The 
^ucational  battle  now  being  fonght  will  turn  on  the  answer  which  e^n 
h©  given  to  this  question.  Can  geography  he  rendered  a  discipline  instead 
*^*  a  mere  body  of  information?  This  is  but  a  rider  on  the  larger 
^xiBcstion  of  the  scope  and  methods  of  oar  science. 

The  other  reason  for  now^  pressing  this  matter  on  your  notice 
<^me8  from  within.  For  half  a  century  several  societies,  and  most 
^^  all  our  owii»  have  been  active  in  promoting  the  exploration  of 
Ae  uvorld.  The  natural  result  is  that  we  are  now  near  the  end  of  the 
^U  of  great  discoveries.  The  Polar  regions  are  the  only  large  blanks 
remaining  on  our  maps.  A  Stanley  can  never  again  reveal  a  Congo 
^  the  delighted  world,  For  a  time  gootl  work  will  be  done  in  New 
Guinea,  in  Africa,  in  Central  Asia,  and  along  the  boundaries  of  the 
*^*en  regions.  For  a  time  a  Greely  wull  now  and  again  receive  the 
^*^  ringing  welcome,  and  will  prove  that  it  is  not  heroes  that  are 
^^.nting.  But  as  tales  of  adventure  grow  fewer  and  fewer,  as  their 
P^ace  ig  more  and  more  taken  by  the  details  of  Ordnance  Surveys,  even 
^ allows  of  Geographical  Societies  will  deepondently  ask,  "What  is 
K«5<^raphy?" 

It  is  needless  to  say  tliat  this  paper  would  not  be  written  were  it  n\y 
**^*i^f  that  the  Eoyal  Geographical  Society  must  shortly  close  its 
history — a  corporate  Alexander  weeping  because  it  has  no  more  worlda 
^^  Conquer,  Our  future  wxirk  is  foreshadowed  by  papers  such  as  those 
Ko.  HI.— Maech  1887.]  m 


112 


ON  THE  SCOPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGRAPHV, 


hy  Mr<  Wells  on  Brazil,  Mr.  Buolianan  on  the  OceaoB,  and  Mr.  Bryce  on  V 
the  Eelation  of  History  and  Geography*  Navertheless,  there  will  be 
^eat  advantages  in  guiding  our  way  into  the  new  groove  with  our  eyea 
to  somo  extent,  at  any  rate,  open.  A  discussion  of  the  question  at  tho 
present  moment  will  probably  have  the  further  incidental  advantage  of 
giving  US  new  weapons  in  our  educational  struggle. 

The  first  inquiry  to  which  we  must  turn  our  attention  is  this :  Is 
geography  one,  or  is  it  several  subjects  ?  More  precisely.  Are  physical 
and  political  geography  two  stages  of  on©  investigation,  or  ate  they 
separate  subjects  to  be  studied  by  different  me tliods,  the  one  an  appendix 
of  geology,  the  other  of  history  ?  Great  prominonce  has  recently  been 
given  to  this  question  by  tho  President  of  the  Geographical  Section  of 
the  British  Association.  In  his  address  at  Birniingham  he  took  up  a 
very  definite  position.     He  said, — > 

"  It  is  difficult  to  reconcile  the  amalgamation  of  what  may  bo  con- 
sidered '  scientific  *  geography  with  hiatorj^  One  is  as  thoroughly 
apart  from  the  other  as  geology  is  from  astronomy." 

It  is  with  great  reluctance  and  diflSdence  that  I  venture  to  oppose  so 
justly  esteemed  an  authority  as  Sir  Frederic  Goldsmid*  I  do  so  only 
because  it  is  my  film  conviction  that  tho  position  taken  tip  at  Birming- 
ham is  fatal  to  the  beat  prospects  of  geography.  I  take  notice,  more- 
ovjer,  of  Sir  Frederic  Goldsmid's  declaration  that  he  is  quite  ready  to 
abandon  the  conclusion  at  which  be  has  arrived,  before  the  arguments 
-of  sounder  reason.  In  so  difficult  a  discussion  it  would  be  extremely 
presumptuous,  were  I  to  assume  that  mme  are  arguments  of  sounder 
reason.  I  put  them  forward  only  because  so  far  as  I  can  sec,  they  have 
not  been  met  and  overthrown  in  the  address  in  qnestion.  Perhaps  Sir 
Frederic  Guldsniid  has  but  expressed  the  vague  views  of  tho  subject 
-current  in  most  men's  minds.  This  is  the  more  probable,  because  in  his 
own  statement  he  has  used  arguments  going  to  support  a  view  opposed 
<o  that  which  he  himself  formulates.*  ^ 

On  the  same  page  as  that  from  which  our  quotation  is  taken  will  b©  V 
found  a  paragraph  expressiog  the  highest  approval  of  Mr.  Bryce's 
**  Geogniphy  in  its  relation  to  History.''  The  central  proposition  of 
Mr,  Biyee's  lecture  is  that  man  is  largely  *'  the  creature  of  Ms  environ- 
ment," The  function  of  political  geography  is  to  trace  the  interaction 
between  man  and  his  environment.  Sir  Frederic  Goklsmid  requires  of 
political  geography  that  it  shall  impart  to  our  future  statesmen  a  *'  fiill 
grasp  "  of  "  geographical  conditions,*'  So  far  no  exception  can  be  taken 
to  his  views.     But  ho  seems  to  imagine  that  the  "  full  grasp  "  of  which 

*  Sir  Frederic  Goldsmid  ha»  written  a  very  courbeoufi  AiiBwer  to  this  pnragcraph. 
From  ifc  I  givther  thiit  I  hure  not  attached  the  meBnitjg  to  his  wortls  wliich  he  intended. 
For  that  I  am  Borry,  I  leav«'  tlic^  ffftragrapU  Htanding,  however,  as  I  believe  that  mine 
ii  not  ftu  imimtural  nieauiuj;  to  iittach  to  the  words.  They  might  easily  he  quotetl 
ftfaiost  the  geogrnpliejn,  and  with  the  mgre  weight  became  they  como  from  a  known 
friead  of  geography. 


ON  THE  SCOPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGEAPHV, 


143 


^ 
^ 


I 


be  speaks  may  be  obtained  from  -what  remains  after  *'  physical  and 
Hcientific  **  geography  have  been  eliminated. 

Before  proceeding  fiirtlier,  it  will  be  well  to  see  whether  we  cannot 
refine  on  our  definition  with  advantage,  Phjeiology  would  answer  to 
the  definition  of  the  science  which  traces  the  interaction  of  man  and  his 
environment.  It  is  the  function  of  physiology,  of  physics,  and  of 
chemistry  to  trace  the  action  of  forces  irrespective  for  the  most  part  of 
precis©  locality*  It  is  especially  characteristic  of  geography  that  it 
traces  the  influence  of  locality,  that  is,  of  environment  varying  locally. 
So  far  as  it  does  not  do  this  it  is  merely  physiography,  and  the  essential 
topographical  element  has  been  omitted.  I  propose  therefore  to  define 
geography  as  the  science  whose  main  function  is  to  trace  the  interaction 
of  man  in  society  and  so  much  of  his  environment  as  varies  locally.* 

Before  the  interaction  can  be  cont-idered,  the  elements  which  are  to 
interact  must  be  analysed.  One  of  these  elements!  is  the  varying 
environment,  and  the  analysis  of  this  is,  I  hold,  the  function  of  physical 
geography.  Thus  we  are  driven  to  a  position  in  direct  antagonism  to 
current  notions.  We  hold  that  no  rational  political  geography  can  exist 
which  is  not  built  upon  and  subsequent  to  physical  geography.  At  the 
present  moment  we  are  suffering  under  the  effects  of  an  irrational 
political  geography,  one,  tliat  is,  whose  main  function  is  not  to  trace 
causal  relations,  and  which  must  therefore  remain  a  body  of  isolated 
tlata  to  be  committed  to  memory.  Such  a  geography  can  never  be  a 
discipline,  can  never,  therefore,  be  honoured  by  the  teacher,  and  must 
always  fail  to  attract  minds  of  an  amplitude  fitting  them  to  be  rulers 
of  men* 

But  it  may  be  i^etorted- — ^For  the  purposes  of  political  geography 
cannot  you  rest  satisfied  with  a  more  superficial  and  more  easily  learned 
analysis  than  that  furnished  by  physical  geography?  In  reply^  we 
take  up  our  lowest  position.  Such  analyses  have  been  tried,  and  havo 
l)een  found  wanting.  It  is  practically  easier  to  learn  the  profound 
analysis  of  science,  raising  and  satisfying  as  it  does  at  every  point  the 
instincts  which  drive  us  for  ever  to  ask  the  question  **  why  ?  "  than  to 
acquire  a  sufficient  amount  of  information  from  the  name-lists  of  the  old 
Bchool-books  or  the  descriptions  of  so-called  descriptive  geography. 
Topography,  which  is  geography  with  the  "  reasons  why  "  eliminated, 
is  almost  unanimously  rejected  both  by  masters  and  pupils. 

There  are  other  reasons  for  our  position  of  even  higher  importance 
than  practical  convenience  in  teaching*    I  will  mention  three.     The 

•  For  anotlicr  definition  from  a  mtlier  different  standpoint  see  my  speech  in  openiDg- 
the  dijcvsaion,  m/ra,  p.  160. 

t  The  other  element  is,  of  course,  man  in  nodety.  Tbo  unalyaia  of  this  will  be 
ihorter  tliAii  tlint  of  the  enviroumcnL  It  may  beat  he  conddeped  on  the?  linca  of 
B^^ehot'3  *  Physic*  and  Politics/  The  communities  of  men  should  bo  looked  oo  an 
milts  in  the  etmg^gle  for  existence,  more  or  lesa  fuvotircd  by  their  ferernl  environmeat*. 
8m  p,  11  for  deflnitioii  of  *^  community  -  *  nnd  "  euTironment.'' 

H   2 


144 


ON  THE  SCOPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGFL\PHV\ 


first  is  this.  If  you  learn  what  tlie  old  geographers  term  **  the  physical 
features  ^*  in  their  causal  relations,  advance  becomes  ever  easier  and 
easier.  New  facts  fit  in  an  orderly  way  into  the  general  scheme.  They 
throw  a  new  light  on  to  all  previously  obtained  knowledge,  and  that 
knowledge  in  turn  illuminates  them  from  many  points*  When,  how- 
ever, the  method  of  description  has  l>een  adopted^  and  still  more  that  of 
enumeratioD,  each  additional  fact  addw  an  ever-inoreaaing  amount  to  the 
burden  to  be  Ijorne  by  the  memory.  It  is  like  throwing:  another  pebble 
on  to  a  heap  of  gravtl.  It  is  like  learning  mathemaiics  by  trying  to_^ 
remember  formulae  instead  of  grasping  principiee.  ^M 

Our  second  reason  is  shortly  this.  A  superficial  atialjsia  is  likely  to 
lead  into  error :  on  the  one  hand  by  failing  to  go  beneath  the  superiicial 
similarity  of  things  essentially  dilfering ;  on  the  other  hand  by  failing 
to  detect  the  essential  sin^ilarity  of  things  superficially  unlike. 

The  third  reason  is  this.  The  mind  which  has  vividly  grasped  in 
their  true  relations  the  factors  of  the  environment  is  likely  to  be  fertile 
in  the  suggestion  of  new  relations  between  the  environment  and  man. 
Even  if  there  be  no  design  of  advancing  the  science,  the  same  conditions 
will  lead  to  a  rapid,  a  ^dvid,  and  therefore  a  lasting  appreciation  of  the 
relations  which  have  been  detected  by  others*  ^ 

It  will  be  well  here  to  pause  and  to  sum  up  our  position  in  a  serie6^| 
of  propositions* 

n  1.  It  is  agreed  that  the  function  of  political  geography  is  to  detect 
and  demonstrate  the  relations  subsisting  between  man  in  society  and 
so  much  of  his  environment  as  varies  locally, 

2.  As  a  preliminary  to  this  the  two  factors  must  be  analysed, 

3.  It  is  the  function  of  physical  geography  to  analyse  one  of  the 
factors,  the  varying  cUTironment. 

4.  Nothing  else  can  adequately  perform  this  function. 
Because — 

No  other  analysis  can  exhibit  the  facts  in  their  causal  relation^ 
and  in  their  true  perspective. 
Therefore— 

No  other  analysis  will — 

Firstly,  Serve  the  teacher  as  a  discipline ; 
Secondly,  Attract  the  higher  minds  among  the  pupils ; 
Thirdly,  Economise  the  limited  power  of  memory ; 
Fourthly,  Be  equally  trustworthy ;  and 
Fifthly,  Be  equally  suggestive. 
Here  we  must  expect  the  observation  that,  granting  the  desirability 
of  what  we  ask,  we  are  none  the  less  asking  what  is  impossible*     Our 
reply  will  be  that  it  has   not  been   tried.     Physical  geography  has 
usually   been   undertaken   by    those   already   burdened    with   geology, 
political  geography  by  those  laden  with  history.     Wo  have  yet  to  see 
the  man  who  taking  np  the  central,  the  geographical  position,  shall  look 


0!t  THE  SCOPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


146 


^ 
^ 


equally  on  such  parta  of  science  anJ  sncb  parts  of  liietory  as  are  p^r* 
liaent  to  his  inquir}'.  Knowledge  ifl»  after  all,  one,  but  the  extreme 
Bpecialism  of  the  present  day  seems  to  hide  the  fact  from  a  eertain  class 
of  minds.  The  more  we  specialise  the  more  room  and  the  more  necessity 
is  there  for  students  whose  constant  aim  it  shall  be  to  bring  out  the 
relations  of  the  special  subjects*  One  of  the  greatest  of  all  gaps  lies 
Mwcen  the  natural  sciences  and  iht^  study  of  humanity.  It  is  the  duty 
of  the  geographer  to  build  one  bridge  over  an  abyss  which  in  the 
opinion  of  many  is  upsetting  the  equilibrium  of  our  culture.  Lop  off 
either  limb  of  geography  and  you  maim  it  in  its  noblest  part. 

In  speaking  thus  wo  are  not  blind  to  the  necessity  of  specialism 
within  geography  itself*  If  you  would  do  original  work  in  the  science 
you  must  specialise.  But  for  this  purpose  either  physical  or  political 
geography  would  be  as  unwieldy  as  the  entire  subject*  Moreover,  your 
special  subject  need  not  fall  entirely  within  the  re^lm  of  one  or  other 
branch ;  it  may  lie  across  the  frontier.  Geography  is  like  a  tree  which 
tarly  divides  into  two  great  bi-anches,  whose  twigs  may  none  the  loss 
be  inextricably  interwoven.  You  select  a  few  adjacent  tw^igs,  but  they 
may  spring  from  different  branches.  As  a  subject  of  education,  how* 
ever,  and  as  a  basis  for  all  fruitful  specialigra  within  the  subject,  we 
insist  on  the  teaching  and  the  grasping  of  geography  as  a  whole. 

This  question  of  possibility  leads  us  naturally  into  an  inquiry  as  to 
the  relations  of  geography  to  its  neighbour  sciences.  Wo  cannot  do 
better  than  adopt  Mr.  Br^'ce'a  rough  classification  of  the  environment. 
Firsts  we  have  the  influences  due  to  the  configuration  of  the  earth*a 
surface  ;  secondly,  those  belonging  to  meteorology  and  climate ;  and 
thirdly,  the  products  which  a  country  oflTers  to  human  industry. 

First,  then,  as  to  the  configuration  of  the  earth's  surface.  We  have 
her©  a  bone  of  contention  between  the  geographers  and  the  geologists. 
The  latter  hold  that  the  causes  which  have  determined  the  form  of  the 
lithosphere  arc  dealt  with  by  their  science,  and  that  there  is  neither 
room  nor  necessity  for  the  physical  geographer.  The  geographer  has 
in  consequence  damaged  his  science  by  refusing  to  include  among  his 
data  any  hut  the  barest  results  of  geology.  The  rivalry  must  be  well 
known  to  all  here  present*  It  has  been  productive  of  nothing  but  evil 
to  geography.  Two  sciences  ma.y  have  data  in  part  identical,  yet  there 
ought  to  be  no  bickering  in  consequence,  for  the  data,  though  identical, 
aie  looked  at  from  different  points  of  view.  They  are  grouped 
differently.  Least  of  all  should  the  geologist  exhibit  such  weakness. 
At  every  step  in  his  own  department  ho  U  diM»«>ndeiit  on  hifl  ioieiilif 
brethren.  Palaeontology  ib  the  J 
ifl  irrational  apart  from  1 
physics  and  chemistry 
for  instance,  the  oau 
attempt  to  find  a  coinmC'^ 


14G 


ON  THE  SCOPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEfKlFlAPHV. 


in  Br,  Croll's  astronomical  interpretation  of  recurrent  glacial  epodis. 
But  enough  of  thia.  The  true  distinction  between  geology  and 
geography  seems  to  me  to  lie  in  this  :  the  geologist  looks  at  the 
present  that  ho  may  interpret  the  past;  the  geographer  looks  at  the 
past  that  he  may  intei*pret  the  present.  This  lino  has  already  been 
traced  for  us  by  one  of  the  greatest  of  the  geologiBts, 

In  his  *  Text-hook  of  Geology/  Dr.  Archibald  Geikio  gives  the 
following  lucid  determination  of  it :  *^-  M 

*'An  investigation  of  the  geological  history  of  a  country  involves  V 
two  distinct  lines  of  inquiry*  We  may  first  consider  the  nature  and 
arrangement  of  the  rocks  that  underlie  the  surface^  with  a  view  to 
ascertaining  from  them  the  succeesive  changes  in  physical  geography 
and  in  plant  and  animal  life  which  they  chronicle.  But  besides  thafl 
story  of  the  rocks,  we  may  try  to  trace  that  of  the  surface  itaelf,  the 
origin  and  vicissitudes  of  the  monntains  and  plains,  valleys  and  ravines, 
peaks,  passes,  and  lake  basins,  which  have  been  formed  out  of  tlie  rocks. 
The  two  inquiries  traced  backwards  merge  into  each  otherj  but  they 
become  more  and  more  distinct  as  they  are  pin-sned  towards  later  times. 
It  is  obvious,  for  instance,  that  a  mass  of  marine  limestone  which  rides 
into  groups  of  hills,  trenclied  by  river  gorges  and  trnversed  by  valleye^ 
presents  two  sharply  contrasted  pictures  to  the  mind*  Looked  at  from 
the  side  of  its  origin,  the  rock  brings  before  us  a  8ea-l>ottom  over  which 
the  relics  of  generations  of  a  luxuriant  marine  calcareous  fauna  accumu- 
lated.  We  may  be  able  to  trace  every  bed,  to  mark  with  precision  its  fl 
organic  coBtents,  and  to  establish  the  zoological  succession  of  which 
these  fiuperimposed  sea-bottomB  are  the  rocoids.  But  we  may  be  quiie 
unable  to  explain  how  such  sea-formed  limestone  came  to  staud  as  it 
now  does,  here  towering  into  hills,  and  there  sinking  into  valleys*  The 
rocks  and  their  contents  form  one  sutiject  of  study,  the  history  of  their 
present  scenery  another/'  fl 

The  same  idea  is  indoi-sed  by  Professor  Moseley  in  his  lecture  on 
*^  The  Scientific  Aspects  of  Geographical  Education."  We  qnote  the 
following  passage  from  among  many  others  in  the  same  strain  :  I— | 

*'  Regarding  physical  geography  as  a  part  of  geology  to  be  separated 
from  it : — The  reason  w^hy  such  a  separation  should  be  eflfected  is  that 
there  is  thus  formed  and  brought  together  for  special  treatment  a  subject 
which  is  far  more  necessaiy  and  suitablo  for  general  educational  purposes 
than  the  whole  of  geology  itself,  which  w^ill  atti-act  far  more  students 
and  act  as  a  lever  for  promoting  the  study  of  other  branches  of  scienoo 
as  special  studies,  and  certainly  of  geologj^  itself 

•*  The  principal  argnment  that  is  always  brought  against  the  estab- 
lishment  of  professorships  of  physical  geogra]>hy  at  the  Universities  is 
that  the  subject  is  already  covered  by  the  professors  of  geology ;  but 

•  Arcbibold  Geikie,  *  Toxt^book  of  Geology,*  1882,  p.  910. 

t  *U.G.  S.  E<liicttttoTiid  Rc'ixirts/  ISSC.  \\  22^S,  Froftwor  Moeelcy. 


I 


ON  THE  SOOP£  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOOBAPHr.  147 

Frof.  Geikie  evidently  does  not  take  that  view,  and  pointit  out  In  hin 
letter  already  referred  to,  *  Geology  is  every  day  increasing  in  its  soop^; 
which  is  already  too  vast  for  the  physical  powers  of  even  the  m(Mt 
isde&tigable  teacher.' " 

In  this  passage  Frof.  Moseley  advocates  the  establishment  of  a  chair 
of  physical  geography.  It  must  not  be  concluded  from  this  that  he  is 
q^osed  to  the  unity  of  geography.  This  is  made  clear  by  oth';r  [K/rtions 
of  his  lecture. 

**  PossiUy,  although  at  the  pxesent  moment  it  may  not  be  jKtmlhhy 
to  secne  the  representation  jof  geography  as  a  whole,  because  </f  the 
tpparent  vmgoeneas  of  its  bounds  and  the  attacks  on  all  si#les  to  which' 
it  is  in  ooDsequence  liable,  there  may  be  a  chance  of  nnctyHm  if  the  attemfrt 
be  made  to  press  the  claims  of  i^ysical  geography .'* 

And  again: — 

'^Ou^t  not  pkvBcal  geography  to  form  part  of  every  liberal  edocai^ 
tian  as  being  a  subject  specially  adapted  for  purposes  of  general  l«knriik|r, 
aad  as  the  only  true  batis  on  which  can  be  founded  a  knowledge  of  wfaaC 
ii  iumol  political  geography?" 

Pobapa  nowhere  is  the  damage  done  to  geography  by  the  tW/rr 
vhick  denies  ita  unity  better  seen  than  in  the  case  of  pbysicid  geofp'4(pby . 
The  sshyecc  has  been  ahaadooed  to  the  geologists,  and  has  in  ^mmf^^n^iw^t 
\  rxicjcieal  bias.  Pbcnomepa  such  as  rc^canoei,  hfX  spring]*,  %mA 
^brjpim,  have  been  grouped  into  cfaapt^fn,  irrw^Tetire  ^>f  th^  rit$pf0tm  tn 
vkidt  Jaej  wcmr,  Frcm  the  geologist  s  poiiit  ^d  vi<rsr  thai  is  mdkff^^i* 
—he  is  ki&kiBg  as  his  BoKtta  ntnut ;  to*:  Tc^i^ntKC^ifz^g  ^A  U^  mAU 
litei  kiecwy^tfia  if  ^A  great  isLX/^x^xK:^^^  \0gt  <tjh  tx^^a&fikg  *A  the 
cB3zr«  fssasge^  ^e  aeiKv^s  ^A  tbsr  efvec^  r^^^^ied,  if.  if^r  tEie  ytrymi  <Y 
er  z^xfx^^  T?rT:-portart,  Brt  swa  a  seseav^  is  lux 
rwgssMj.  «Bri  Dr^  ArsLfbsld  G^skie  tells  -wr  flsMl 7  i«i 
IB  ■TLrmnris  «f  Fkjwa2  G-ec^^Taccj '  *  t^skt  l«  is  «ses^  tiuf;  wf^Hb  m 
viBviias  «•  ycvmjcx^crr,  TrK  xoTwai  ^^^^grs^fify  ^bm  «^  V^'^% 
i»  a  fBBBik  ^■.^".^.tMt  ^tf  '2^  ^fi^zxrnrarjiL  ^f  ta«&  5»KSn:r»«  ^^  t>u^  *att*^% 
tK&B^     Tit  uidEa  snuc  2*  rt^rnrjwii  en  *  ^^j^/j^xrja^jfi^  '-Am-Jk^     It  I 

i£  a  ^TfssL  iacasfe-  *  ^^T  »  i  * ""  T^TOspacoj-  *  Wii*r:%  »  r,  ''*  FarTe>^ 
sscigirj.  -^  ^*^  ^  =^  taiEc*  -  '^  Pic3»^  ^jT^t^-j^  ^  IH^jw  {^^.^^  jn  «? 

m  3080.  it  MiSBBC*--  SOtC  in«W  fll«i  J*»r  JUSUR  VL  55  '*    ^'jt^M'JJTJ  ««»    *-  Vi4^ 

psmii  11  'ae  ^fiiiios:  nut  ^suk  ^rj^sM^e^  Tb^  ins:  >vi*/  t^Hv/^t^j^  w^, 
"j^  3^m  i£  -iif!:  rsficizcaaieL  T!k  crofiicraui  tiun«%  xl  ^^r^'wseuv^  T^n 
imj  sin  mMsn  of  laj  mur  if  'Zuen^  \vr  x  is  irj  tfteit%arjta  ^iwi<^  ;»vt 

^jisat  -nijdL  TzraoMt  x^    S^i-ijimi^  ifrifj^t  it  Jie  «riv:  ieaj«:  Jt  vapi0^>smf!a' ^ 


148 


ON  THE  SC!OPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGRAFHr. 


We  will  give  two  illustrations  of  tho  inadequacy  for  geographical 
pnrpoBes  of  the  present  (geological)  physical  geographies  even  wheu 
considered  as  physiographies. 

The  iirst  is  the  undue  prominence  given  to  sueh  subjects  as  volcanoes 
and  glaciers.  To  this  my  attention  has  been  several  times  drawn  by 
your  Assistant-Secretary,  Mr.  Bates.  It  is  perfectly  natural  in  books 
>vTitten  by  geologists*  Volcanoes  and  glaciers  are  phenomena  which 
leave  most  market!  and  charact eristic  traces  behind  them.  Therefore, 
from  a  geological  point  of  view  they  are  niutit  important,  and  are  worthy- 
of  special  study.  But  the  result  resembles  a  book  o]i  biology  written 
l>y  a  palteontologist.  In  it  we  should  ex|>ect  to  find  the  snail's  shell,  for 
instance,  described  in  the  greatest  detail,  but  to  the  comparative  neglect 
of  tho  far  more  important  soft  parts  vdthin. 

My  other  illustration  is  a  practical  one,  which  must  appeal  to  the 
exi>erience  of  all  thoughtful  travellers.  Let  us  say  that  you  go  for  a 
trip  up  the  Ehine  ;  you  must  be  strangely  wanting  in  curiosity  if  you  do 
not  ask  yourself  such  questions  as  the  following :— Why  is  it  that  after 
passing  over  many  miles  of  flat  land  through  which  the  Ehine  meanders 
almost  on  a  level  with  the  surrounding  country,  we  com©  suddenly  to  a 
part  of  its  course  in  which  it  passes  through  a  gorge  ?  Why,  when  wo 
reach  Bingen,  does  that  gorge  still  more  suddenly  cease»  its  place  taken 
by  a  lake-like  valley  bounded  hy  parallel  ranges  of  mountains?  No 
ordinary  physical  geography  that  I  have  seen  adequately  anawera  such 
questions  as  these.  If  3'ou  happen  to  have  a  special  knowledge  of  the 
subject,  you  may  know  that  if  you  look  into  tho  *  Journal  of  the 
Geological  Society  *  '  you  will  find  a  delightful  paper  on  this  subject 
by  Sir  Andrew  Ramsay.  But  this  implies  the  time  and  opportunity  for 
research  among  original  authorities,  and  even  then  your  reward  will  be 
slight.     It  is  only  a  few  isolated  regions  which  have  been  so  treated. 

I  will  close  tliis  portion  of  the  subject  with  a  constmctive  attempt, 
I  shall  select  a  region  familiar  to  all,  that  your  attention  may  be  con- 
centrated on  the  method  rather  than  the  matter.  Let  us  take  the  south- 
east of  Enghmd.  The  usual  method  of  treating  the  geography  of  such 
a  region  would  he  to  describe  from  a  physical  point  of  view  first  the 
coast  and  then  the  surface.  The  cajves  and  inlets  of  the  one  and  the 
hills  and  valleys  of  the  other  would  be  enumerated  in  order.  You 
w-ould  then  have  a  list  of  the  political  divisions,  and  a  further  list  of 
tho  chief  tow^uH,  stating  the  rivers  on  whose  banks  they  stand.  In  some 
eases  a  few  interesting  but  isolated  facts  would  be  added,  menial  pegs 
on  which  to  hang  the  names.  The  political  portion  of  such  a  work 
even  at  best  rises  no  higher  than  to  the  muk  of  a  good  system  of 
mnemonics.  As  for  the  ph^'sical  portion,  all  the  text-bcx>k8  agree  in 
commilting  what  is,  from  my  point  of  view,  a  fundamental  error.  They 
separate  the  descriptions  of  the  coast  and  the  surface.    This  is  fatal  to 

•  1874. 


I 
■ 

I 


I 


ON  THE  SCOPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGBAPHV.  140 

the  demonBiration  in  due  perspective  of  the  chain  of  caiuses  and  effoota. 
The  accidents  of  the  surface  and  of  the  coast  are  alike  the  results  of  the 
interaction  of  two  forces,  the  Tarying  resistance  of  the  rock  strata  and 
the  varying  erosive  powers  of  atmosphere  and  sea.  The  erosive  powers, 
whether  superficial  or  marginal,  act  on  one  and  the  same  set  of  rocks. 
Why  should  there  be  a  Flamborough  Head  ?  Why  should  there  be  a 
Torkshire  Wold  ?  They  are  but  two  edges  of  the  rim  of  one  and  the 
flame  maas  of  uptilted  chalk-strata. 

Let  U8  try  to  construct  a  geography  of  South-eastern  England  which 
shall  exhibit  a  continuous  series  of  causal  relations.  Imagine  thrown 
over  the  land  like  a  white  tablecloth  over  a  table,  a  great  sheet  of  chalk. 
Let  the  sheet  be  creased  with  a  few  simple  folds,  like  a  tablecloth  laid 
hy  a  careless  hand.  A  line  of  furrow  *  runs  down  the  Kennet  Vf 
Reading,  and  then  follows  the  Thames  out  to  sea.  A  line  of  ridgo 
pMses  eastward  through  Salisbury  Plain  and  then  down  the  centre  of 
the  Weald.  A  second  line  of  furrow  follows  the  valley  of  the  Frome 
aad  its  sabmarine  continuations,  the  Solent  and  Spithead.  Finally,  yet 
anoond  Hne  of  ridge  is  carried  through  the  Isle  of  Porbeck  and  its 
BOW  detached  member  the  Isle  of  Wight.  Imi^ine  these  ridges  and 
knows  untouched  by  the  erosive  forces.  The  curves  of  the  strata 
vuald  be  parallel  with  the  curves  of  the  sur&ce.  The  ridges  would 
he  flat-topped  and  broad.  The  furrows  would  be  flat-ljr/ttomed 
aad  btoad.  The  Kmnet-Thames  farrow  would  be  characterised  l^y 
Jafirasinft  width  as  it  advanced  eastward.  The  slopes  joining  the 
terow-botftaaa  to  the  ridge-top  would  vary  in  steepness.  It  is  not 
fielended  that  the  land  ever  exhibited  sudi  a  picture.  The  upheaving 
aad  tiae  cmsiie  foroes  have  always  acted  simultaneously.  As  with  the 
Emses  of  Fartianimt,  the  process  of  ruin  commenced  before  the  bvUdlng 
vaa  i^m^i^^  The  eJimination  of  eronon  is  merely  an  expedient  to 
ihsw  ^e  sifliple  amngeaaent  of  the  rocks,  whidh  aimpKeity  is  iwaslrrd 
W  dw  afiyaicnt  cimfnaion  of  the  ruin.  Add  one  more  £act,  thai  above 
and  bdow  ^e  hard  dialk  lie  strata  of  soft  dsj,  aad  we  have  drawn  fMt 
^nic^  flv  aD  thst  we  require. 

IVe  mamldtx^m  wmrk  is  eoaplete ;  the  dnsel  snst  ni9w  Ue  sfppli^ 
IW  fii BUS  of  aira»dgea  tear  o«r  cloth  to  tattetm.    Bait  m  thfMj^  tibe 
seB  stzftiMd  wi^  stared  as  it  lay  emasd  on  iht  tabi^  A^ 
[  lid^es  we  kavit  deseriliied  hare  not  faOen  in.    Their  rsnK»l 
■&  fK^eet  sdfiy  as  lull  TMmgfsm  and  eapss.     The  Uavm- 
I  ^he  sqiedBeaaBhcatt  elay ,  pr>lnee  Hn^  ef  valkj 
e  liMBBs     lB*»tftesr>ft<iaf  ^eseahsMi 
gTHS  inka  of  ^e  TWwa  saMl^  aad  tike  Mrr9w«»T 
I  wki(£&  exscftd  fe«L  P'xie  Har^#;i«r  tibsj^aif^ 


W  andEaX^r  ijj^ini'nmmi  Jm  -mmbej  wad.  lalL    T^  tm\  mat  Ut«m.  fiiaiiT/  mi^Ufi, 


IfiO 


ON  THE  SCOPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGBAI'Hl'. 


I 


the  Solent  to  Spithead,  and  vvMch  ramify  into  Southampton  Water  and 
Portsmoiitli,  Langstone,  aud  (.'hichester  Harbours.  The  upturned  edgu 
of  the  clialk-sheet  produces  th©  long  range  of  liills,  which,  under  the 
various  names  of  Berkshire  Downs,  ChUtem,  and  Gogmagog  Hills,  and 
East  Anglian  Heights,  bounds  the  Kennet-Thamea  basin  to  the  north- 
west. The  North  and  South  Downs  stand  up  facing  each  other,  tho 
springs  of  an  arch  from  which  the  key-stone  has  been  removed. 
The  same  arch  fonns  Salisbury  Plain,  and  its  eastward  prolongation  in 
the  chalk  uplands  of  Hampshire ;  but  hero  the  key-stone,  though  damaged, 
has  not  been  completely  worn  through.  Beachy  Head  and  the  North  and 
South  Forelands  are  but  the  seaward  projections  of  the  Down  ranges. 
The  fact  that  the  North  Downs  end  not  in  a  single  promontory,  like 
Beachy  Head,  but  in  a  long  lino  of  cliff,  the  two  ends  of  which  aro 
marked  by  the  North  and  South  Forelands,  may  servo  to  draw  attention 
to  a  relation  which  frequently  exists  between  the  slope  of  the  surface- 
and  the  dip  of  tho  strata.  A  few  sentences  back,  we  mentioned  the 
fact,  that  if  our  simple  ridge  and  furrow  system  really  obtained,  the 
slopes  connecting  the  ridge-topa  and  tho  furrow  bottoms  would  vary  in  ■ 
bteepness.  By  remembering  the  position  of  a  hill-range  in  the  **  restored  " 
i*uin,  wo  shall  remember  not  merely  its  direction,  but  also  the  relative 
steepness  of  its  two  faces.  One  will  bo  prmlnc^ed  by  the  dipping  strata,  ■ 
the  other  will  bo  tho  escarpment  where  tho  strata  have  been  cut  short. 
On  the  dip  of  the  strata  will  depend  very  much  whether  when  we  havo 
climbed  the  escarpment,  we  soo  in  front  of  us  a  sharp  descent  or  an 
undulating  upland.  Contrast  in  this  respect  the  two  ehjilk  uplands 
which  form  tho  broad  projections  of  lilast  Anglia  and  Kent  with  the 
narrow  ridges,  the  Chilterns  and  the  Hog*8  Back.  The  north-west 
escarpment  of  the  Chilterns  is  continuous  with  the  western  scarped  face 
of  East  Anglia,  The  south-eaBtem  dip-slope  of  the  Chilterns  is  con- 
tinuous with  the  dip-slope  which  forms  tho  broad  uplands  of  Norfolk, 
The  dip  is  steep  in  the  case  of  the  Chilterns,  slight  in  that  of  Norfolk, 
Similarly  the  Kentish  uplands  are  a  prolongation  of  the  Hog's  Back. 
Tho  southern  scarped  faces  differ  but  little,  whereas  the  northern  dip- 
slope  of  the  Hog's  Back  is  steep,  though  its  continuation  in  Kent  is  only 
gently  inclined.  This  terminal  expansion  of  the  hill^ranges  has  been 
of  great  importance  in  English  history,  as  wiU  be  seen  presently.  The 
expansions  may  bo  considered  as  dependent  on  the  eastward  widen- 
ing of  the  Eennet-Thames  Imsin*  It  will  be  noticed  that  the  shores  of 
the  Thames  estuary  are  on  the  whole  parallel  with  the  hill-ranges 
which  mark  the  lipa  of  the  basin,  the  northern  shore  parallel  with  the 
curve  traced  by  tho  hills  from  Hunstanton  Point  to  tho  Chiltems,  the 
southern  parallel  with  the  straighter  range  of  the  North  Downs. 

Tho  rivers  of  the  district  fall  naturally  into  three  classes.  First,  we 
have  those  which  flow  down  the  dip-slope  of  East  Anglia,  As  a  eon- 
aequence,  they  aro  numerous  and  roughly  parallel.    They  do  not  combine 


ON  THE  SCOPE  A^D  METHODS  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


151 


to  form  ono  large  stre^hm  presenting  a  tree-like  appearanco  on  the  map. 
Secondly,  we  liave  those  which  flow  down  the  great  furrows,  tho  Rennet 
*ijd  tho  Thames  below  Beading  on  the  one  hand,  tho  Frome  with  itij 
submarine  prolongation  by  the  Solent  and  Spitbead  on  the  other.  The 
many  tributaries  of  the  Thamee  are  obvious,  but  the  tree-like  character 
of  the  Fromo  is  not  ohvioue  unleBs  its  Bubmarine  continuation  be  taken 
into  account.  Then  the  Frome,  tho  vStour,  the  Avon,  the  Teat,  the 
I  token,  and  the  Medina,  would  combine  to  form  one  great  stream, 
baving  its  mouth  east  of  the  Isle  of  Wight.  Such  a  river  may  very 
probably  have  actually  existed.  Lastly,  there  are  the  Btreams  which 
pftfis  by  ravines  right  through  the  chalk  ranges,  tho  Thames  above 
Beading,  and  the  various  small  rivers  of  the  Weald.  This  circumstance 
is  incomprehensible,  unless  wo  suppose  that  tho  strata  arches  were 
formerly  complete.  Then  these  streams  would  flow  down  the  even 
slope  of  the  ridge,  following  tho  ordinary  hydrostatic  laws.  Tho  only 
prominent  feature  of  our  area  which  would  require  a  special  explanation 
apart  from  the  flexure  of  tho  rocks  is  the  shingle  hank  which  forms 
Dungeness,* 

This  being  the  general  anatomy  of  the  land,  what  has  been  its 
influence  on  man?  In  the  midst  of  forest  and  marsh  three  broad 
uplands  stood  out  in  early  days^  great  openings  in  which  man  could 
establish  himself  with  the  letist  resistance  fiom  nature.  In  the  language 
of  the  Celts  they  were  known  as  '*  Gwents,"  a  name  corrupted  by  tho 
Imim  conquerors  into  "  Ventro."  Thoy  were  tho  chalk  uplands  with 
which  we  were  familiar,  the  arch*top  of  Salisbury  Plain  and  Hampshire, 
imd  the  terminal  expansions  of  the  chalk  ranges  in  East  Anglia  and 
Kent.  In  East  Anglia  was  Yenta  leenorum  i  in  Kent  and  Canterbury  f 
we  still  have  relics  of  another  G  went.  The  first  syllahlo  of  Winchester { 
a>mpletes  the  triplet.  In  later,  but  still  early  times,  they  were  the 
first  nests  of  the  three  races  which  composed  the  German  host.  The 
Angles  settled  in  Norfolk  and  Suffolk,  the  Jutes  in  Kent,  the  Saxons  in 
Hampshire.  In  still  later  England,  Winchester,  Canterbury,  and 
Norwich  were  among  the  chief  of  medifeval  cities.  To  this  day  the 
isolation  of  two  of  these  regions  at  least  has  left  its  traces  in  the  marked 
diaraoteristics  of  their  populations.  Tho  Fens  cut  off  Norfolk,  tho  Weald 
forests  shut  in  Keut.  Their  people  have  taken  distinct  positions  in  our 
history.  Tho  *'  men  of  Norfolk  *'  and  the  "  men  of  Kent "  have  Ijeen  of 
a  remarkably  rebellious  disposition. 

•  I  haT©  omitted  in  this  eketoh  to  account  for  Leith  Uill  and 
ex.    They,  too,  d»?pend  on  the  flexiUG  of  tlie  rocka;  but  to 
[  take  up  too  muck  e;paco  id  a  pai>er  wbich  puiporta  otdjr  to 
t  to  exhamt  ita  topic. 
t  80  J.  K.  Green  would  hftfe  it,  'JlaMng  of  Eugi 
Taylor  derivefi  Kent  from  Centty  a  G&dhelio  form  of  the  C 
je<jtioii'-'  Words  and  Places,'  1885,  p.  148. 
I  Venta  BeJgaram. 


Ii 


152 


ox  THE  SCOPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGlUPKr. 


There  were  four  gi*eat  citieB  in  tlie  east  and  fioutli ;  we  have 
i^ientiooed  three.  The  fourth  was  Lotjdon,  Geographical  conditions 
liave  determined  the  greatness  of  the  metropolis.  The  map  %vill  make 
it  clear  at  once,  that  the  Fens  and  the  AVeald  would  compel  the  lines  of 
communication  from  Norfolk  and  Kent  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  rest  of 
England  on  the  other  to  pass  in  the  general  direction  of  London.  Kent 
lies  nearest  to  the  Continent,  and  hence  Watling  Street  was  not  merely 
the  Kentish  road,  but  also  the  road  to  Flanders.  Whero  the  hills 
narrow  the  Thames  marshes  most  there  is  the  natural  crossing  of 
Watling  Street,  first  a  ferry,  then  a  bridge.  This  point  lies  between 
Tower  Eill  and  the  heights  of  Dnl wit  h  and  Sydeobam.  Bermondsey, 
the  iele  of  Bermoud,  was  a  dry  spot,  lising  like  a  etepping-stonc  from 
among  the  sijrrounding  marshes.  The  existence  of  solid  ground  on  the 
immediate  banks  of  the  deep  water,  which  is  necessary,  as  the  "  take-off'* 
for  a  bridge  or  ferry,  is  also  necessary  for  a  landing-place.  Here  then 
we  have  a  crossing  of  natural  ways  on  a  tipot  which  is  a  natural 
halting-placo  for  both,  hence  a  point  at  which  a  city  is  certain  to  rise. 
That  cit}^  will  bo  the  more  imjwrtant  if  one  way  is  by  land  and  the 
other  by  water,  for  it  is  then  a  place  of  transhipment.  It  will  be  still 
more  important  if  it  is  the  necessary  meeting-point  of  river  and  sea 
traffic.  Even  more  pregnant  with  meaning  is  the  position  of  the  Thames 
month  relatively  to  that  of  the  Scheldt.  It  determines  the  linked  great- 
ness of  London  and  Antwerp,  and  also  much  of  the  Continental  policy  of 
England.  Thus  many  causes  conspire  to  maintain  the  greatness  of 
London.  This  is  a  fact  to  be  marked.  It  is  the  secret  of  its  persistent 
growth  from  the  earliest  times.  The  iniportanoe  of  a  given  geographi- 
cal feature  varies  with  the  degree  of  man's  civilisation.  A  city  which 
depends  on  one  pliysical  advantage  may  fall  at  any  moment.  A  single 
mechanical  discovery  may  effect  the  change.* 

So  ranch  for  the  cities.  Lastly  as  to  the  political  divisionsp  Therc^ 
are  two  tj^tes  of  political  divisiona,  natural  and  arbitrary.  The  contrast 
presented  by  the  old  division  of  France  into  provinces  and  the  revo- 
lutionary division  into  departments  will  serve  to  indicate  the  distinction. 
The  one  is  the  reenlt  of  an  unconscious  process »  such  as  the  accretion 
of  smaller  states  to  a  larger  state.  The  other  is  the  product  of  conscious 
legislation.  In  Euglund  we  have  the  two  kinds  side  by  side.  In  the 
midlands  we  have  arbitrary  divisions,  counties  named  after  their  chief 
towns,  and  supposed  to  have  originated  from  the  partition  of  Mercia.t 
In  the  east  and  south,  on  the  other  hand,  the  counties  are  of  natural 
growth^  and  bear  names  indicating  their  distinct  origin.     In  the  case  of 


I 


*  In  tills  a<?couiit  of  Ibo  **  greatness  "  of  LoqJod  I  Liivc  not  inilicated  Ike  full  sigriii- 
ficcmce  of  Tower  Hill.  The  *'  tluu  '*  or  liill-fort  no  doubt  decided  the  prtciiw  locnUty 
of  London  *  but  othor  cauflM,  as  given  alxive^  have  detenniued  its  grcatne&a. 

t  Cbndder  J.  K.  Greet),  *Con4ii«'>t  of  Engloud/  1S&3,  p.  141,  note.  But  compare 
Isaac  Taylor,  *  Wortla  and  Pbct-a,'  1^85,  p.  179, 


isy 


QCtf  or 


US 


fnn  a  tecc*:.  «aier  VKSzI  ^oisj  3Xi0K  fftjwal 
id  lacj  ai€i»  ^vi^  ^e  <cf«tM&  ^  ^CBier  ti£ftsn5i^^ 
b  "sam  sf^m.  ^vsr  «»  ^JrfMwg  w^ol  w>%  mat  msm  ~ 

ii^aK  «K&5^  tatfor  n^TKuti&t  ^ne^  aiec  a  loit 


\f  'a^iiiSai^ii  ia»  namJk  mid  i€  3ai( 

of  Q*9BUL.      15ut 
't*-  jt  li*  inzm.  of  1 


I 


154  ON  THE  SCOPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGRAPHr, 

data*  just  as  meteorology  itself  accepts  the  resulta  of  ph3raics.  It  is  a 
mifltake,  especially  of  the  GermanB,  that  thoy  include  too  mnch  in 
geography*  Geography  has  bearings  on  many  subjects,  but  it  does  not 
bodily  include  those  subjects,  E%'eii  the  great  Pescliel  includes  in  his 
'  Phyaische  Erdkunde '  ♦  a  discussion  on  the  barometer  and  a  demonstration  fl 
of  the  formnlfc  needed  in  barometric  corrections.  Such  digressions  are  ™ 
the  CAUse  of  the  often  repeated  charge  that  geographers  are  merely 
dabblei*s  in  all  the  sciences.  It  is  our  contention  that  geography  has  a 
separate  sphere  of  work.  Its  data  may  overlap  those  of  other  sciences, 
but  its  function  is  to  point  out  certain  new  relations  between  those  data. 
Geography  must  be  a  continuous  argument,  and  the  test  of  whether  a 
given  point  is  to  be  included  or  not  must  be  this — la  it  pertinent  to  the 
main  line  of  argument  ?  How  far  digressionB  with  the  view  of  proving  ■ 
data  are  allowable  must  of  course  bo  a  practical  question.  As  a  mlc 
they  should  be  excluded  if  it  is  the  function  of  any  other  science  to 
prove  them, 

Mr,  Bryce's  last  category  includes  the  productions  of  a  region*  The 
distribution  of  minerals  is  obviously  incidental  to  the  rock-structure, 
and  wo  need  refer  to  it  only  to  give  another  tap  to  the  nail  at  which 
we  have  been  hammering  previously.  As  regards  the  distribution  of 
animals  and  plants,  we  must  apply  the  test  to  which  we  referred  in  the 
last  paragraph— How  far  is  it  pertinent  to  the  main  line  of  geographical 
argument?  So  far  as  the  animals  and  plants  in  question  form  an  ap- 
preciable factor  in  man's  environment,  so  far  their  distribution  is  veiy 
pertinent.  So  far  also  as  that  distribution  gives  evidence  of  geogra- 
phical changes,  suoli  as  the  separation  of  islands  from  continents  or  a 
retirement  of  the  snow-line,  so  far  it  is  also  pertinent.  But  the  study 
of  flie  distribution  of  animals  and  plants  in  detail  and  as  an  aid  to  the 
understanding  of  the  evolution  of  those  beings^  is  in  no  souse  a  part  of 
geography.  It  ia  a  part  of  zoology  or  botany,  for  the  proper  study  of 
which  a  preliminary  study  of  geography  is  necessary* 

The  truth  of  the  matter  ts  that  the  bounds  of  all  the  sciences  must 
naturally  be  compromifies*  Knowledgo,  as  we  have  said  before,  is  one. 
Its  division  into  8ul>ject8  is  a  concession  to  human  weakness.  As  a  final 
example  of  this  we  will  deal  with  the  relation  of  geography  to  history. 
In  their  elementary  stages  they  must  obviously  go  hand  in  hand.  In 
their  higher  stages  they  diverge*  The  historian  finds  full  occupation 
in  the  critical  and  comparative  study  of  original  docximents.  He  hat* 
neither  the  time  nor  usually  the  turn  of  mind  to  scan  science  for  him- 
self with  a  view  to  selecting  the  facts  and  ideas  which  be  requires.  It 
18  the  function  of  the  geographer  to  do  this  for  him.  On  the  other  hand, 
the  geographer  must  go  to  history  for  tho  verification  of  the  relation n 
which  he  suggests.  The  body  of  laws  governing  those  relations,  which 
might  in  time  be  evolved,  would  render  possible  the  writing  of  much 
♦  Y<Sl,  ii,  pp.  118-127,  2iid  edit. 


ON  THE  SCOPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGRAPHY, 


155 


k 
> 


'*  preliistorio  **  hi&toiy.  Jolvn  Kieiiard  Green's  *  Making  of  England '  is 
largely  a  deduction  from  geographical  conditions  of  ^-hat  mtist  have 
been  the  course  of  history. 

It  remains  that  I  should  eet  ont  what  I  conoeiT©  to  be  tho  main  line 
of  geographical  argument.  1  "v^ill  do  tliiB  in  two  stages.  The  first  will 
be  general,  such  as  might  be  gathered  from  the  syllabus  of  a  university 
course  of  lectures  or  from  the  table  of  contents  at  the  beginning  of  a 
text-book*  The  second  will  be  a  special  application  of  this  to  the  solution 
of  a  defnite  problem — the  reasons  why  Delhi  and  Calcutta  should  have 
been  respectively  the  old  and  the  new  capitals  of  India, 

We  presuppose  a  knowledge  of  physiography.  We  would  then  start 
from  the  idea  of  a  landless  globe,  and  l^uild  up  a  conception  of  the  earth 
on  the  analogy  of  mechanics.  First,  the  laws  of  Newton  are  demonstrated 
in  their  ideal  simplicity  on  the  hypothesis  of  absolute  rigiditj\  It  is  not 
tintil  those  are  fixed  in  tlie  mind  tlmt  the  counteracting  tendencies  of 
elasticity  and  friction  are  introduced.  So  would  we  attack  the  study  of 
geography.  Imagine  our  globe  in  a  landless  condition,  composed  that 
i»  of  three  concentric  spheroids — atmosphere,  hydrosphere,  and  litho- 
sphere.  Two  great  world-wide  forces  would  be  in  action^-the  sun^s 
heat  and  the  earth's  rotation  on  its  axis*  Obviously  the  trade-wind 
Bystem  would  have  unimpeded  sway.  Next  introduce  the  third  set  of 
world-wide  forces — ^tho  inclination  of  the  earth's  axis  to  the  plane  of  its 
orbit  and  the  revolution  of  the  earth  round  the  sun*  The  result  would 
be  an  annual  march  from  tropic  to  tropic  of  the  calm  zone  separating 
the  trades.  The  fourth  and  last  of  the  causes  which  we  have  termed 
world-wide  would  be  the  secular  variation  in  the  elliptioity  of  the 
earth's  orbit  and  in  the  obliquity  of  its  axis.  This  would  produce  similar 
variationfi  in  the  annual  march  and  in  the  intensity  of  the  trade-wind 
sjstenu 

Thus  far  we  have  steered  clear  of  longittidinal  variations.  Given 
the  latitude,  the  altitude,  the  season  of  year,  and  the  year  in  the  secular 
period,  and  the  climatic  conditions  are  deducible  from  very  few  data, 
Xow  we  abandon  our  priman^'  hypothesis.  Conceive  the  world  as  it  is, 
ai  heated,  aa  cooling,  as  shrinking,  as  wrinkling.  It  was  heated,  it  is 
cooling,  therefore  it  is  shrinking,  and  the  outer  more  chiUed  crust  is  in 
Ponsequence  wrinkling-  The  lithosphere  is  no  longer  concentric  with 
the  atmosphere  and  tho  hy*lroBphere.  The  betl  of  the  ocean  is  thrown 
into  ridges  and  furrows.  The  ridges  project  into  the  hydrosphere,  and 
tbrongh  the  hydrosphere  into  the  atmosphere.  They  act  as  obstacles  in 
111©  way  of  the  world-currents.  The}*  may  bo  compared  to  the  stones  in 
the  bed  of  a  rapid  stream  on  which  the  currents  impinge  and  are  diverted, 
lliey  either  leap  over  them  or  are  ^plit  upon  them.  This  purely  mecha- 
nical action  is  well  seen^  in  the  splitting  of  the  Southern  E>}uatoriiil 
Drift  on  Cape  San  Ho<[ue.  Cape  San  Boque  has  a  distinct  influenco  on 
tho  climate  of  England,     The  "  leaping-over "  action  10  visiblo  i 


I 


156 


ON  THE  SCOPE  AKD  METHODS  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


case  of  wiads  rising  over  mountain-cliams,  and  as  a  conacqtienc©  ooveriiig 
their  slopes  with  moiBtiire.  Btit»  in  atldition  to  the  lueclmmcal,  there 
are  thermal  causes  of  variation,  duo  mainly  to  the  different  specific  heats 
of  land  and  water — hence  the  monaoonfl^  The  lie  of  tbo  gre^t  wrinkles 
has  a  special  meaning.  Were  the  ccmtinonts  extended  east  and  west 
instead  of  in  three  great  bands  across  the  Eqtiator,  climate  would  be 
approximately  indexed  by  latitude.  ■ 

Thus  may  we  Bteadil3^  progress  in  the  analysis  of  the  world  s  sur- 
face. Conceive  the  world  as  Ian  J  less,  and  you  will  see  the  motor-powers 
of  air-  and  water-circulation.  Replace  your  conception  by  one  of  a 
wrinkled  w^orld,  and  yuu  will  grasp  how  by  mechanical  obstruction 
and  thermal  irregularity  your  simple  cuiTents  are  differentiated  into 
currents  of  almost  infinite  but  still  orderly  complexity. 

But  we  must  advance  a  stage  further.  The  form  of  the  lithospher© 
is  not  fixed.  The  shrinkage  is  still  in  progress.  Old  wrinkles  are 
raised  and  new  wrinkles  come  into  existence.  As  they  rise  their 
destruction  commences.  The  currents  ever  work  at  the  removal  of  the 
obstacles  which  obstruct  their  course.  They  tend  to  achieve  the  ideal 
simplicity  of  circulation.  Thus  the  features  of  the  earth's  surface  are 
constantly  changing.  Their  precise  form  is  determined  by  their  past 
history  as  well  aj9  by  their  present  conditions,  Becent  changes  are  the 
subject  of  one  of  the  most  fascinating  chapters  in  geography.  Plains 
are  built  by  the  accumulation  of  debris.  Continents  give  birth  to 
islands.  The  evidence  is  drawn  from  a  hundred  sonrces — from  the  lines 
of  migration  of  birds,  the  distribution  of  animals,  or  the  depths  of  then 
neighbouring  seas.  ^ 

Each  successive  chapter  postulates  what  has  gone  before.  The 
sequence  of  argument  is  nnbroken.  From  the  position  of  the  obstacles 
and  the  course  of  the  winds  may  be  deduced  the  distribution  of  rain. 
From  the  form  and  distribution  of  the  wTinkle-slopes  and  from  the  dis- 
tribution of  the  rainfall  follows  the  explanation  of  the  diainage-system. 
The  distribution  of  soils  is  mainly  dependent  on  the  rock-structure,  and 
on  a  consideration  of  soil  and  climate  follows  the  diirision  of  the  world 
into  natural  regions  based  on  vegetation.  1  am  not  here  referring  to  the 
dlstribntion  of  botanical  species,  but  to  that  of  the  broad  types  of  whalfli 
may  be  called  the  vegetable  clothing  of  the  world — the  polar  and  tropical 
deserts,  the  temperate  and  tropical  forests^  and  the  regions  which  may 
be  grouped  together  as  grass-plains*  ^d 

Passing  now  to  the  second  stage  of  the  investigation,  it  will  be  well  ' 
to  make  nsc  of  two  technical  terms.  **  An  environment  '*  is  a  natural 
region.  The  smaller  the  area  included  the  greater  tends  to  be  the 
number  of  conditions  uniform  or  nearly  uniform  throughont  Iho  area. 
Thus  we  have  environments  of  difierent  orders,  whose  extension  and 
intension,  to  borrow  a  logical  phrase,  vary  inversely.  So  with  communi- 
ties,    **  A  community  "  is  a  gioup  of  men  having  certain  characteristics 


OS  THE  9O0i%  ASD  MEIHODS  OF  GfiOGfiAFHT.  157 

Tike  SBiller  ikt  oommnnitT,  tbe  greater  teads  to  be  the 
of  eoauMB  dtaracteristics^  GiniiBiimiues  are  of  different 
ordets — rftces.  natiotR,  |stnrincefi,  towns — the  last  two  expreaaoMiB  used 
n  tfe  fiCBse  of  cQipsKmte  S^^o^P"  <^  bmb.    Bt  iht  use  of  thfose  two  tenns 

i  cui  be  giTCB  to  sack  disrassKHis  as  the  effects  of  erpadng  two 
;  to  one  CBTiroiiBent,  and  ooe  cxanmnnitT  to  two  eiiTiroii> 

For  iBstaikce.  this — ^How  have  geograpbical  conditicits  diff^- 
a^ed  the  Eagiisk  race  in  the  thi>ee  cnTiionmentB,  Britain,  America, 
aadAMtnlia? 

Eiiei»»begp  political  qaertiops  will  depend  on  the  reediltB  of  Utie 
ph jmeal  inqnirr.  Certain  oonditiaDS  of  climate  and  soil  are  needed  for 
^t  aggiegatkn  of  dense  popalatioD&.  A  certain  density  of  population 
seems  pj^rnMatu  to  the  developaient  of  civilisation.  In  the  ligbt  of  SBcb 
principles  wosld  be  discnased  sndi  problems  as  the  contrast  between 
the  aBcient  iqiland  cirilisatianB  of  tlie  New  Worid,  Peni  and  MexicQ,  and 
the  SDcaent  lowland  QvilJsatinns  of  the  Old  World,  ^rp^  ^^nd  Babjkm. 
Again,  eanqisxmtxTelT  nndistwrbed  strata  nsnallT  nnd^lie  wide  plains, 
and  wide  plains  seem  ^wciall j  favoaraUe  to  the  dend^^Nnoit  of  homo- 
geaecws  neea,  like  the  Bnssians  and  the  Chinese.  Yet  agaia,  the  dis- 
tnbatian  of  animal,  regetable,  and  mineral  prodncts  has  done  much  to 
detenaine  the  local  diaiacteristicB  of  ctrilisation.  Consider  in  this 
reject  the  saies  {H^sented  bj  the  OH  World,  the  New  World,  and 
Aastralia  in  the  matter  of  comparative  irealth  in  cereals  and  beasts  of 
bsiden. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  copters  would  deal  with  the  reaction  of 
■an  on  nature.  Man  alters  his  aivinHunent,  and  the  action  of  that  oi- 
Tiionm»it  <m  his  posterity  is  dianged  in  consequence.  The  relative  im- 
portanoe  of  physical  features  varies  &om  age  to  age  according  to  the  state 
of  knowledge  and  of  material  civilisation.  The  improvement  of  artificial 
lifting  has  rendered  posslUe  the  eristence  of  a  great  communis  at 
St  Petetsborg.  The  discovoy  of  the  Cape  ronte  to  India  and  of  the 
Sew  World  led  to  the  Ml  of  Venice.  The  invention  of  the  steam 
engine  and  the  electric  telegraph  have  rendered  possible  the  great 
aae  of  modem  States.  We  might  multiply  sudi  instances  greatly. 
We  might  group  them  into  categories,  but  our  object  t«>day  is 
laerdy  to  indicate  the  possilnlities  of  the  subject.  One  thing,  how- 
erer,  must  always  be  borne  in  mind.  The  course  of  history  at 
a  givm  moment,  whether  in  politics,  sodety,  or  any  other  sphere  of 
human  activity,  is  the  product  not  cmly  of  environment  but  also  of  the 
mmnentum  acquired  in  the  past  The  fact  that  man  is  mainly  a 
creature  of  habit  must  be  recognised.  The  Englishman,  for  instance, 
win  put  up  with  many  anomalies  nntil  they  become  nuisances  of  a 
certain  degree  of  virulence.  The  inffuence  of  this  tendency  must  always 
be  kept  in  mind  in  geography,  llilford  Haven,  in  the  present  state 
of  things,  offers  far  greater  physical  advantages  than  liveipoiA  for  the 
ha  nL— ILlsch  1887.]  v 


158  ON  THE  SCOPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGRjVPHV.  ^^H 

American  trado ;  yet  it  is  improbable  tbat  Liverpool  will  bave  to  give 
way  to  Milford  Haven,  at  any  rate  in  the  immediate  future.  It  is  a  caeo 
of  vis  inertiw. 

Wo  propose  pa  Being  now  to  the  special  illustration  which  we  have 
promised.  We  will  start  fr<(ra  the  fountain-hoad.  From  the  buh's  heat 
and  the  earth  s  rotation  wo  demonstrate  the  trade-wind  system.  From 
the  influence  of  that  heat  on  the  vast  maes  of  Asia  we  deduce  tho 
monsoon  variation  of  the  system.  Witbin  the  monsoon  area  are  col- 
lected some  seven  hundred  out  of  the  eight  hundred  millions  of 
Asia.  Itight  athwart  the  south-west  monsoon  extends  the  Himalaya. 
The  moieture  of  the  Indian  Ocean  in  conse<|nence  deluges  its  soutbem 
face.  Thus  the  full  importance  of  the  direction  of  the  mountain-chain 
IB  brought  out.  The  rains  have  washed  down  from  the  mountains  the 
debris  which  fonns  the  fertile  plain  at  their  base.  HeneCj  along  the 
southern  foot  of  tho  Himalaya  wo  have  a  belt  of  country  possessing 
the  conditions  of  climate  and  soil  needed  to  sustain  a  large  population* 
In  effect  we  find  two-fiftbs  of  the  pojmlation  of  the  entire  peninsula 
concentrated  in  the  provinces  of  Bengal,  the  North-west,  and  the  Punjab, 
althoiigb  these  three  provinces  have  btit  little  more  than  ono-eixth  the 
area.  Moreover,  tho  abundant  moisture  of  the  monsoon  coupled  with 
the  height  of  the  Himalaya  (the  height  is  a  consequence  of  the  com- 
parative newness  of  the  \\Tinkle)  produce  an  abundant  glacial  system 
from  above  the  snowline.  One  result  of  this  is  that  the  rivers  of  the 
plain  are  perennial,  and  constantly  navigable.  Tints  we  have  two  con- 
ditions favourable  to  the  development  of  civilisation,  density  of  population, 
and  case  of  eommnnication. 

A  wealthy  civilised  community  is  a  region  tempting  to  the  conqueror. 
Now  conquerors  are  of  two  kinds — land-wolves  and  sea-wolves.  How 
would  these  respectively  gain  access  to  their  prey  in  the  Ganges  valley  ? 
Consider  first  the  landward  frontier  of  India.  On  the  north-east  the 
Himalaya  is  practically  impassalde  to  a  host.*  On  the  north-west  is 
the  Sulaiman  range,  pierced  by  many  passes.  From  the  Iranian  uplands 
of  which  this  range  is  the  boundary  wall  have  swept  down  successive 
waves  of  conquerors.  But  within  the  mountain  line  is  a  far  more  effective 
obstacle,  tho  Thar  or  great  Indian  desert,  with  its  continuation  the 
Bann  of  Katch.  This  barrier  extends  parallel  to  tho  Sulaiman  Moun- 
tains from  the  sea  almost  to  tho  Himalaya*  Between  the  desert  and  the 
foot  of  the  Himaliiya  the  ferl  ile  belt  is  narrowest.  Through  that  gate 
must  pass  whoever  would  gain  access  to  the  Ganges  valley,  Alexander 
advanced  to  its  entrance.  When  he  swerved  to  the  right  and  followed 
the  Indus,  India  was  saved.  Close  to  tho  eastern  end  of  the  pass  is 
Delhi.  It  stands  at  the  head  of  the  Jumna-Ganges  navigation,  the 
place  of  transhipment  from  land  to  water  carriage.     It  is  therefore  a 

•  ODly  one  (exception  is  recorded  by  history,  A  Cbinese  army  once  fiucceeded  in 
reachmg  Nepaoi 


ON  THE  SCOPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGRAPHT.  159 

natural  centre  of  ccmmeroe.  It  is  also  the  natural  base  of  operations 
for  the  Asiatic  conqueror,  his  left  flanked  by  the  mountains,  his  right 
by  the  desert,  his  line  of  communications  secure  to  the  rear.  The 
strat^ic  importance  of  the  region  has  not  escaped  the  British.  Here 
is  Simla,  the  summer  capital  of  India.  Here  also  the  army  cantonments 
are  most  thickly  sown.  Here  are  the  fields  of  many  battles.  So  much 
for  DelhL  Now  for  Calcutta.  From  the  sea  India  is  singularly  in- 
accessible. The  eastern  shore  is  beaten  by  a  heavy  surf.  We  have  had 
to  construct  a  harbour  at  Madras  at  great  expense.  The  western  coast 
has  many  good  harbours,  but  in  its  rear  rises  the  steep  slope  of  the 
Western  Ghats.  Drenched  by  the  monsoon,  they  are  densely  clothed 
with  forests,  which  to  this  day  are  the  abode  of  some  of  the  mcst 
savage  races  of  the  world.  Behind  Bombay  railways  have  now  been 
carried  over  the  mountains,  but  until  recently  they  must  have  been 
a  most  effectual  barrier  to  communication.  The  Portuguese  settled 
at  Goa»  and  could  not  advance.  The  English  possessicm  at  Bombay 
was  our  earliest  in  India,*  yet  the  Presidency  of  Bombay  was  the  last 
to  grow.  The  one  great  natural  water-gate  is  by  the  mouth  of  the 
Ganges.  Here,  on  the  Hoogly,  the  British  established  themselves  at 
Calcutta.  It  is  the  place  of  junction  of  river  and  sea  shipping,  and 
therefore  a  commercial  centre.  It  is  also  the  natural  basis  of  operations 
for  the  conquerors  from  over  the  sea.  From  it  they  have  extended  their 
influence  far  and  wide.  The  old  presidencies  of  Bombay  and  Madras 
liave  ea<^  been  succeeded  by  a  single  province,  but  the  Presidency  of 
Bengal  has  b^otten  Bengal,  the  North-west,  the  Punjab,  and  th& 
Central  Provinces ;  we  might  almost  add  Assam  and  Burma.  Thus,  to 
earn  up,  at  the  two  ends  of  the  fertile  belt  are  the  two  gates  of  India — 
the  Khafbar  Pass  and  the  Hoogly.  Along  that  belt  the  great  highway 
is  the  Jumna-Ganges.  At  either  end  of  the  river  navigation  stands  a 
strategical  and  commercial  capital,  Delhi  on  the  one  hand,  C^cuttaf 
on  the  other. 

Thus  we  complete  our  survey  of  the  methods  and  scope  of  geography. 
I  believe  that  on  lines  such  as  I  have  sketched  a  geography  may  be 
worked  out  which  shall  satisfy  at  once  the  practical  requirements  of  the 
statesman  and  the  merchant,  the  theoretical  requirements  of  the  historian 
and  the  scientist,  and  the  intellectual  requirements  of  the  teacher.  Its 
inherent  breadth  and  manysidedness  should  be  claimed  as  its  chief 
merit.  At  the  same  time  we  have  to  recognise  that  these  are  the  very 
qualities  which  wiU  render  it  ^  suspect "  to  an  age  of  specialists.  It 
would  be  a  standing  protest  against  the  disintegration  oi  culture  with 

*  Onr  euliest  poBsevkm.  We  had  heUaiea  at  Smat  and  at  Fori  81.  George  aome- 
whatearlia: 

t  Oa]eiitU=Kali  Katfta— the  village  of  the  goddeas  KalL  Thia  anggests  the 
qneatioii,  Wh  j  abould  Uiia  particular  Tillage  hare  riaen  to  be  a  metvopolia  rather  than 
aoj  other  village?  I  would  pvopoae  the  tezm  ** geographical  adectkn'' Cor  the  pcooeas 
<at  the  analogy  of**  natural  adectjon." 

V  2 


160  OK  THE  SCOrE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGRArHY.-^DISCUSSION. 

which  we  are  threatonud.  In  the  dajs  of  our  fathers  the  ancient  claaaicB 
were  the  common  element  in  the  culture  of  all  men,  a  ground  on  which 
the  S|>ecialista  could  meet.  The  world  is  c hangings  ancl  it  would  seem 
that  the  classicfl  are  also  becoming  a  Bpeciality.  Whether  we  ref^ret  the 
tuni  whic'i  things  have  taken  or  whether  wo  rejoice  at  it,  it  ia  equally 
our  duty  to  find  a  subetitute.  To  me  it  seems  that  geography  combines 
some  of  the  requisite  qualities.  To  the  practical  man,  whether  ho  aim 
at  distinction  in  the  State  or  at  the  amassing  of  wealth,  it  is  a  store  of 
invaluable  information;  to  the  student  it  is  a  stimulating  basis  from 
which  to  set  out  along  a  hundred  special  lines ;  to  the  teacher  it  would 
be  an  implement  for  the  calling  out  of  the  powers  of  the  intellect,  unless 
indeed  to  that  old-world  class  of  flchot>lmaster  who  measure  the  difl- 
ciplinarj  value  of  a  subject  by  the  repugnance  with  which  it  inspires 
the  pupil.  All  this  we  say  on  the  assumption  of  the  unity  of  the 
subject.  The  al tentative  is  to  divide  the  scientific  from  the  practical. 
The  result  of  its  adoption  will  be  the  ruin  of  both.  The  practical  will 
bo  rejected  by  the  teacher,  and  will  be  found  indigestible  in  after  life. 
The  scientific  will  bo  neglected  by  most  men,  because  it  lacks  the  element 
of  utility  in  every*day  life.  The  man  of  the  world  and  the  student^  the 
scientist  and  the  historian,  will  lose  their  common  platform.  The 
world  will  be  the  poorer. 

The  dbcussion  on  the  foregoing  paper  was  adjourned  to  the  next  following 
meeting,  February  14th. 

On  that  evening  (General  R.  SrajLcnET^  Yice-Preaident,  in  the  chair)  the  dis- 
cussion was  opened  by  Mr.  Mackinder  &s  follows  :^ 

Mr,  Chairaion,  I  nm  asked  to  say  a  few  words  to  you  bj  way  of  analysis  of  the 
paper  which  I  laid  before  you  on  the  last  occasion.  It  is  obviously  impoeatHe  for 
mo  to  give  you  an  exbanstive  analyt^iB,  because  the  paper  itself,  in  spite  of  ita 
length,  was  necessarily  more  or  leas  of  the  natnre  of  on  epitome.  1  think,  however, 
it  will  be  possible  for  me  by  grouping  the  ideas,  such  as  they  are,  in  a  somewhat 
different  way,  to  place  the  salient  points  almost  in  a  nutshell.  If  I  were  asked  to 
describe  geography  roughly  I  should  venture  on  the  assertion  that  it  is  the  science 
of  distributioD,  the  science,  that  is,  which  traces  the  arraDgenjent  of  thiogs  in  general 
on  the  earth's  surface.  Since  it  is  a  science  it  is  not  sufficient  to  rest  content  with 
recording,  however  accurately  and  skilfully,  the  places  of  things  on  the  earth'n 
surface.  After  using  our  various  obiscrving  instruments,  after  making  maps  as  care* 
fully  as  ever  you  will,  it  is  necessary  that  we  should  pass  on  to  consider  what 
lelations  hold  between  the  distributions  of  various  sots  of  features  on  the  earth':* 
surface,  and  what  are  the  causes  of  tho&e  distributioDs.  Let  mo  give  a  oomparison 
with  some  other  science.  Take  that  of  astrooouiy.  I  will  ask  you  to  remember  that 
the  astronomer  spends  a  very  large  portion  of  his  time  in  using  the  telescopci  in 
mioutely  observing  and  recording  facts  ^itli  regard  to  the  heavenly  bodies^  but  you 
would  not  say  that  a  scieDC©  of  the  heavenly  bodies  existed  unless  you  showed  that 
there  were  laws  governing  their  movements  and  great  forc«;ft  holding  the  solar 
.systems  together.  If  we  apply  these  ideas  to  geography  I  tliiuk  we  shall  see  how 
the  various  chapters  may  be  strung  together  in  natural  sequence.  I  do  not  pretend 
that  these  suggestions  aro  new.  My  aim  ia  simply  to  show  a  method  which  some 
1)  t tie  experience  in  teaching  has  proved  to  be  available— such  as  will  be  fitted  to 


ON  THE  SCOPE  AND  METKGDS  OF  GHOGfLVrHV,— DISCUSSION. 


IGl 


the  higber  dasses  m  UniTemtiea  and  stifficieotly  digniUcil  for  men  to  make  tbc 
subject  their  life  studj. 

We  start  m\h  the  conception  of  tho  world  as  a  kndlesa  globe,  I  believe  tbata 
useful  expedient  for  tbia  reason — ^tbat  there  are  isome  phenomena,  such  as  the  trade 
winds,  which  are  more  or  less  independent  cf  the  difitrihution  of  land  and  water. 
On  the  principle  that  a  person  who  baa  an  untmined  ear  for  music  would  prefer 
heariDg  "  Homej  Sweet  Home  "  on  a  flute,  to  hearing  It  with  full  orchestral  acoora- 
paniraent,  so  we  prefer  clearing  away  many  sets  of  causes  when  we  first  apj^roach 
the  oonfideration  of  the  earth.  Then  we  go  on  to  consider  the  land  and  sea  distri- 
buted {Ls  they  are*  Juat  as^  in  the  case  of  a  stone  standing  in  the  way  of  a  stream 
going  down  a  hill,  the  stream  has  to  split  upon  it,  go  round  it,  or  go  over  it,  so  w. 
the  same  way  the  great  currents  impinging  on  the  land,  either  swerve  to  right  or  to 
left,  or  split  upon  it^  or  in  Ihe  case  of  winds  have  to  leap  over  it,  and  therefore  we 
get  a  complex  state  of  affairs  out  of  a  simple  set  of  causes.  Thertforo  we  see  that 
precise  topography  is  a  necessary  tbiog  if  we  are  to  have  a  proper  expknatiou  of 
the  actually  observed  distributions  of  currents  both  in  the  air  and  water, 

Passing  from  that,  if  I  look  at  a  headland  projecting  into  the  sea,  I  cannot  help 
feeling  that  there  must  be  some  cause  for  the  place  which  that  headland  holds,  aud 
for  its  shape,  aod  I  cannot  help  feeling,  from  the  analogy  of  other  sciences,  that  if  I 
knew  that  cause  and  compared  it  with  the  causes  of  other  things^  I  should  be  able 
to  see  that  they  were  related,  and  so  should  be  able  to  work  out  a  law  of  considerable 
simplicity  where  apparently  we  have  great  irregularity  of  distribution.  Geologists 
seem  to  be  agreed  on  this,  that  the  shape  of  the  earth's  surface  is  due  to  the  inter- 
actioa  of  two  tet^  of  causes— upheaval  and  ruin.  The  forces  of  upheaval,  even  so 
conservative  a  geologist  as  Sir  William  Dawson  agrees,  are  the  result  of  the  gradual 
shrinking  of  this  earth,  producing  what  I  call  wrinkling,  and  others  folding  or 
corrugation  in  the  earth's  surface.  Then  we  have  the  forces  of  ruin — frost,  wind, 
nin  and  ao  forth,  brought  to  bear  upon  it,  chiselling  it.  When  you  look  at  a  ruiu 
it  is  at  first  sight  exceedingly  disorderly,  and  until  yon  have  seen  what  wore  the 
relations  of  its  parts  in  the  past,  that  disordt^r  continues.  So  with  this  earth.  If 
you  understand  the  arraogemeDt  of  the  rock- folds  you  are  in  a  position  to  understand 
the  actual  distribution  of  the  present  fiatures*  There  is  in  this  month's  *  Fro- 
ceedingB*  (February  No.)  a  most  excellent  application  of  this  method  of  describing 
the  features  of  a  country  by  means  of  the  wrinkles.  The  paper  by  Dr.  Nauraann, 
on  Japan,  which  has  been  so  generally  praised,  contains  a  passage  which  runs  as 
follows :  *•  The  study  of  geology  in  j  list  as  indispensable  to  the  orographer  as  the 
Btndy  of  anatomy  is  to  the  sculptor.  Ko  clever  artist  would  think  of  rcpreiscnting 
the  beauties  of  the  human  form  as  those  of  a  hollow  figure.  The  pliysical  features 
of  Japan  present  a  fine  example  for  the  verification  of  the  intimate  and  mutual 
dependence  of  those  sciences  whose  object  is  otir  globe*  After  having  made  ourselves 
acquainted  with  the  general  laws  of  geological  structure  wc  shall  be  better  enabled 
to  understand  the  language  of  the  external  features  of  that  part  of  the  surface  we 
are  at  present  dealing  with,''  Ho  practically  applies  his  idea  and  gives  a  map  on 
which  he  ^hows  the  **  Line  of  folds,"  Having  got  the  distribution  of  the  earth's 
snriace  we  come  to  work  out  the  distribution  of  other  things.  The  rainfall  obviously 
depends  on  the  profile  of  the  eanh's  surlace,  the  soils  on  the  distribution  of  climates* 
mod  rainfall.  Then  the  general  vegetable  clothing  of  the  earth — ^forests,  grass  lands, 
and  such  like — all  follow  on  what  we  have  previously  studied.  So  with  regard  tu 
man,  the  same  laws  apply,  only  the  nppliciaiuns  are  more  complicated,  because  we 
have  to  study  the  distribution  not  only  of  races,  but  also  of  numerous  attributes  of 
man,  languages,  religions^  political  organi^tiona  and  forms  of  civilisation.  Ag^o, 
♦iiijce  man  is  a  moving  creature  we  have  to  study  phyBicat  featurci«,  not  only  as 


i 


162  ON  THE  SCOPE  ANB  METHODS  OF  GEOGRAPHY,— DISCUSSION, 

determiDing  wliether  the  region  in  whicli  be  dwells  eholl  be  favoumble  or  not,  but 
also  as  impediments  in  bis  %vajr,  whetber  be  pasaes  m  an  arm j»  in  migration,  or  as  a 
nomad* 

From  all  ibis  It  will  be  seen  tbat  it  is  necessary  to  do  two  tbings — to  base  our 
physical  geogra[)by  to  a  great  extent  on  geolog3%  and  to  combine  physical  and 
IxiUtical  geograpby  together,  I  bave  defined  geograpby  in  the  way  wbicb  I  have 
for  the  following  reasons,  1  believe  that  nine  out  of  ten  studtnta  who  approach 
geography  wiO  necessarily  approach  it  from  the  human  standpoint,  Tbey  wish  to 
study  the  world  as  man's  environment.  I  use  the  word  environmeot,  because 
Mr.  Bryce  has  made  that  term  a  received  one  in  geography.  In  order  to  understand 
the  distribution  of  man  it  is  neeessary  to  understand  that  of  the  physical  features. 
We  have  thus  a  science  in  which  essentially  the  same  methods  are  applied  from 
beginning  to  end.  But  it  la  the  culminating  stage  which  postulates  all  that  has 
gone  before  that  bas  a  general  interest.  I  do  not  mean  to  say  that  for  purposes  of 
original  investigation  some  people  will  not  choose  to  confine  themselves  to  inanimate 
nature,  but  1  say  that  for  a  general  basis  it  is  necessary  to  study  the  physical  features 
in  order  chiefly  to  understand  the  distribution  of  man.  I  believe  that  a  considerable 
number  of  those  who  will  take  part  in  the  discussion  this  evening  bave  seen  my 
ideas  set  out  in  print  in  a  more  connected  form  than  it  was  poasihle  for  me  to  show 
them  on  the  last  occasion  or  would  l>e  on  the  present.  I  will  therefore  only  say 
in  reply  to  a  criticism  which  bas  been  current,  to  the  effect  that  whatever  value  my 
ideas  may  have  from  a  theoretical  point  of  view,  they  are  impracticable  for  teaching 
purposes',  that  since  last  Octol>er,  I  have  had  an  opix>rtuuity  of  lecturing  to  1200 
people,  and  I  find  that  even  elementary  lectures^  set  out  on  the  plan  I  bave  suggested, 
have  been  more  or  less  successful  in  interesting  i>eo]>le.  In  conclusion,  if  the  ideas  I 
have  put  forward,  however  much  criticised  (and  I  hope  they  will  be  criticised), 
result  in  our  arriving  at  a  more  or  less  general  opinion  as  to  what  the  scoi>e  of  geo- 
graphy is,  I  shall  he  amply  graiibed  (or  any  trouble  I  have  taken* 

Sir  Frederic  Goldsmid  wished  to  explain  in  a  few  %vords  the  reason  of  bis 
coming  before  the  meeting.  Hearing  that  a  paper  about  to  be  read  in  these  rooms 
contained  something  in  the  form  of  onslaught  on  a  position  taken  up  by  himself  in 
an  address  to  the  Geograpbiciil  Section  of  the  British  Association  at  Birmingham  in 
September  last — and  finding  that  other  engagements  would  prevent  his  attendance 
at  the  meeting — he  procured  a  *."0|iy  of  the  paper  aforesaid,  and  wrote  dow^n  some 
hurried  remarks  to  be  retid  on  the  occasion  by  a  kind  substitute.  It  so  happened 
that  when  the  lecturer's  task  was  completed,  no  time  for  discussion  was  available, 
and  hia  notes  were  returned.  Now  that  they  were  met  to  di^iuss  the  last  meeting's 
imper,  and  that  the  reading  of  these  notes  would  spare  the  audience  perhaps  a  more 
rambling  statement  and  economise  time,  he  ventured  to  recur  to  them  in  fulfilment 
of  the  object  for  which  tbey  were  originally  designed. 

Tlie  passage  quoted  in  proof  of  hia  (Sir  Frederic's)  tripping  was  this:  "  It  is 
diflicult  to  reconcile  the  amalgamation  of  what  may  be  considered  'scientific 
geography '  with  history.  One  is  as  thoroughly  apart  from  the  other  as  geology  is 
from  astronomy.**  Presently  be  would  quote  another  passage  in  which  the  offence 
is  even  greater,  and  defined  with  like  precision.  But  he  (Sir  Frederic)  was  speaking 
of  geography  in  the  sense  of  what  may  bo  called  its  mathematical  treatment,  and  his 
critic  took  bim  as  referring  to  scientific  theory  and  deduction.  He  (Sir  Frederic)  was 
in  the  material  world  with  the  practical  surveyor  and  his  outdoor  apiiaratua.  His 
critic  pictured  him  in  the  world  of  speculation  in  which  historian  and  geographer  find 
a  common  ground.  It  was  a  misconception  of  meaning,  a  confusion  of  tcrms^ — in 
fact,  of  theories  with  theodolites. 

Setting  aside  the  actual  charge  of  making  proposals  "  fatal  to  the  best  prospects 


OK  THE  SCOPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGRAPHY%— DISCUSSION. 


163 


of  geography,"  it  might  B«^em  unwarrantable  on  his  (Sir  Frederick)  part,  after  the 
able  and  exhaufltive  discourse  delivened  a  fortnight  ago,  to  take  up  the  time  of  the 
meeting  with  an  answer  to  a  personal  alhision  expressed  in  the  brie  teat  of  terms. 
But  as  the  duooorse  itself  bears,  as  it  were,  almost  wholly  upon  that  personal 
allnsioD,  and  is  in  fact  one  expansive  comment  on  an  individual  uttorauce  for  which 
lie  was  held  reaponaible,  a  reply  of  some  kind  would  be  admitted  to  be  necessary. 

He  was  not  going  to  disavow  the  words  which  had  been  quoted  from  his  address 
to  the  Geographical  Section  at  Binningham,  though  he  could  not  help  regretting 
that  the  passage  selected  fur  objection  was  not  one  morn  expressive  of  the  general 
tendency  and  manifest  object  of  that  address.  Indeed,  had  it  been  considered  in 
reference  to  the  remainder,  it  would  have  been  evident  that  his  meaning  in  fshowiuga 
eompilete  separation  between  history  and  "scientific  geography  ,**  was  to  imlicate  wliat 
he  might  call  the  comprehensive  **  nnity  "of  the  latter  branch  of  study,  and  to 
suggest  the  incorporation  into  history  of  a  newly  constituted  "political  geography  " 
containing,  he  might  add,  very  much  the  kind  of  teaching  which  has  been  aptly 
illustrated  by  the  present  lecturer.  Questions  such  as  density  or  sparseness  of  popu- 
lation, and  contrast  between  upland  and  lowland  civihsations — all  these  matters 
naturally  appertain  to  history.  Nor  would  he  pronounce  as  foreign  to  the  same 
sphere  of  teaching  that  eloquent  paragraph  of  theoretical  topography  which,  in  the 
paper  read  at  the  last  meeting,  accounts  for  the  growth  and  greatness  of  London.  In 
fact^  when  speaking  of  "political  geography  etrippod  of  its  purely  scientific  belong- 
ings,^ he  (Sir  PVederic)  made  no  reference  to  those  broad  lines  of  **  science,'*  the  value 
of  which  in  historical  research  no  true  student  of  history  can  deny,  nor  to  that  light 
of  *•  science  "  which  gives  a  reality  to  the  historical  f^age — but  to  those  belongings 
which  imply  rather  practice  than  theory,  a^d  the  presence  of  the  surveyor  and 
engineer  than  of  the  geographer  en  grand.  Let  his  words  be  analysed : — "  Tbe  mean- 
ing of  the  verbal  combination  *  political  geography*  requires  some  kind  of  analysis. 
Conventionally,  and  in  an  educational  sense,  it  is  the  description  of  the  political  or 
arbitrary  divisions  and  limits  of  empires,  kingdoms,  and  states  ;  their  inhabitants, 
towns,  natural  productions,  agriculture,  manufactures,  and  commerce,  as  well  aa  laws, 
modes  of  government  and  social  organisation^-every  thing  beiDg  viewed  with  rcfereDce 
to  the  artificial  divisions  and  works  made  by  man.  Accepting  this  interpretation  of 
t^  objecte,  who  can  hesitate  to  admit  its  palpable  and  immediate  relation  to  history  ? 
The  mathematical  science  which  investigates  the  physical  character  of  territory  and 
territorial  boundaries  is  in  this  case  but  a  sGcondary  requii-eraentand  can  be  always 
fairly  disposed  of  in  the  recognition  of  results."  >!eed  he  add  that  the  question  of 
**  man*fl  environment,"  on  Mr.  Bryce's  conception  of  which  ht<  had  occasion  to  sj-icak 
a  little  later,  was  not  for  a  moment  contemplated  as  one  of  tbe  *^  secondary  require- 
ments "  here  noted.  He  was  told  by  those  who  had  taken  the  trouble  to  consider  his 
address  in  its  entirety,  that,  in  the  view  taken,  he  dwelt  too  much  on  the  "  fieldwork 
of  geography,"  the  results  of  which  are  seldom,  if  ever,  questioned  by  the  reading  public 
and  are  accepted  by  the  writer  of  history  as  he  accepts  the  journeys  and  researches  in 
libranes.  If,  indeed,  his  argument  be  weak,  he  admitted  that  it  is  in  this  particular 
aspect  it  shows  its  most  vulnerable  pomt ;  but  he  was  prepared  to  defend  the  position 
by  the  teaching  of  his  own  experience.  Tins,  however,  was  not  the  point  on  which 
he  was  now  assailed ;  he  was  supposed  to  apply  the  word  **  scientific  "  to  that  which 
comprehends  the  physical  causes  and  connections  of  the  earth's  features,  and  such  was 
not  in  this  instance  his  intention.  He  referred  to  that  branch  of  geography  which, 
to  be  duly  apprehended,  demands  in  the  student  a  mathematical  rather  than  a 
theoretical  turn  of  mind.  To  this  head  belong  much  that  comes  within  the  purport 
of  topography,  physiography,  cartography,  trigonometrical  survey,  and  the  mechanism 
whidi  necessitates  acquaiutance  with  the  instruments  and  appliances  of  geography, 


164  ox  THE  SCOPE  AXD  METHODS  OF  QEOGRAPHTT.'^DISCUSSION.  ^ 

and  their  reapectiTe  uses.  Physical  geography,  and  the  thousand  and  one  theories 
involved  in  its  cods  idem  ti  on  ^  helong  nndonbtedly  to  history,  and  cannot  be  exclnded 
from  the  programio©  of  study  prepared  for  iho  use  of  ndvaoced  hitftorical  claBses. 

But  the  gist  of  his  argument  was  Ihia.  To  popularise  geograpliy,  the  method  of 
study  mnat  be  such  as  to  suit  the  mental  biaa  of  the  pnpil.  Call  the  principle 
advocated  '*  A  concesBion  to  human  weakness  "  if  you  will ;  but  so  long  as  human 
nature  is  weak>  the  fact  must  be  acknowledged,  and  treatment  regu!att^d  accordingly. 
There  may  be  present  at  the  ordinary  meetings  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society 
those  who  appreciate  and  eojoy  **  I  rave  Hers*  tales"  more  than  **  travellers' ^B 
geogra^jhy.^  They  may  bo  weak,  hut  their  weakness  must  be  admitted  as  a  factor^ 
in  the  matter  of  providing  the  public  with  |K>pular  [i^apors. 

A  story  had  been  related  to  him  which  illustrates  the  case.  Some  ^ears  pnat*  a 
gentleman  well  known  to  the  Society  was  about  to  read  a  paper,  with  one  of  our 
most  esteemed  Presidents  in  the  chair*  The  latter  remarked  on  its  length.  "  What 
shall  I  leave  out ? "  asked  the  reader ;  "the  adventures ? **  ** No;'  was  tbe  ready 
reply :  **  the  geography ;  you  can  print  that  afterwards  "  So  is  it  with  the  outaide 
world,  and  those  classes  whom  it  is  wished  to  attract  towards  a  neglected  study. 

It  is  not,  then,  tbe  **  division  of  the  scientific  from  the  practical "  w  hich  be 
ventured  to  recommend ;  but  the  creation  of  a  chair  for  geography  in  its  most 
compreheDsivc  form,  combining  the  eci  en  tide  and  the  practical,  or  what  Is  theoretical 
with  what  is  material,  matter-of-fact,  or  perhaps  mechanical  On  the  other  hand,  he 
would  combine  with  history — for  which  chairs  exist— certain  elements  of  this 
"scientific"  or  universal  geography,  such  as  are  rather  included  in  the  term 
**  political "  than  under  any  other  now  recognised  head, — "  irrational,"  ho  granted, 
in  failing  "  to  trace  causal  relations,"  but  subject,  in  this  aa  in  other  respects,  to  re- 
cast and  revision.  This,  it  will  be  found,  was  precLiely  the  course  which  he  before 
propoBcd^not  as  the  result  of  any  intricate  investigation,  but  tbe  natural  outcome  of 
jjcrsoual  observation. 

He  submitted,  with  all  deference,  that  scientific  geography,  as  tangbt  from  the 
chair,  should  make  the  accomplished  geographer,  historian,  and  man  of  science 
combined  :  history,  with  its  geographical  supplement,  the  diplomatist.  There  is  no 
claishing  here,  and  no  danger  that  I  can  see  to  the  cause  of  science.  To  those  who 
did  him  the  honour  of  reading,  or  liiitening  to  the  Birmiogham  address,  his  object  will 
be  evident.     It  is  set  forth  in  the  following  paragraph  :— 

**  It  must  be  boroe  in  mind  that  our  governments  or  geogmphical  societies,  our 
boards  or  our  Universities— whichever  distinguished  body  takes  the  matter  in  hand, 
separately,  it  may  be^  or  in  concert^ — will  have  to  cater  for  a  multitude  of  pupils,  and 
that,  whatever  change  eventually  takes  place  in  the  programmes  of  study,  the 
division  of  school  teaching  into  two  great  representative  branches,  classics  and 
mathematics,  is  a  practice  which  has  hitherto,  at  most  public  schools,  resisted  the 
shock  of  ioDovation,  The  maintenance  of  this  lime-hononretl  custom  is  not  so  much, 
to  my  mind,  an  illustration  of  conservative  principle — ihat^  w'e  all  know,  is  jxjwer- 
less  against  national  progress— as  the  assertion  of  a  xjrofound  truth,  similar  to  that 
which  in  the  region  of  language  sejiarates  the  Semitic  from  the  Aryao  category  of 
tongues.  It  is  a  recognition  of  the  distinctioa  which  exists  in  tho  human  organi- 
sation between  mind  and  mind — a  distincticn  apparent  in  the  boy  as  in  the  man, 
at  school  as  at  college — ia  the  battle  of  life  itself,  as  in  the  period  of  preparation 
for  battle.  I  do  not  mean  to  imply  that  all  school  studies  fall  essentially  under 
one  or  other  of  these  divisions ;  but  1  do  believe  that  the  student'^  progress  will  be 
la  accordance  with  his  idiosyncrasies  ;  that  the  student's  taste  should  be  considered 
in  the  inaster*a  eystim ;  and  that,  in  dealiug  with  geography,  we  ought  not  to 
throw  it  wholesale  into  the  hands  of  the  professor  or  reader,  but  wjiarate  it  to  suit 


ON  THE  SCOPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGRAPHY.— D13<:aSS10N. 


165 


the  capacity  of  the  ckfiical  as  of  the  mathematical  intelligence,  so  that  the  one  part 
oome  within  the  province  of  history  and  art,  the  other  within  the  limits  of  unadul- 
tcAted  science.  Attention  to  both  sections  should  be  imperative,  so  far  as  attention 
to  claaeicaand  mathematics  ia  imperative,  but  the  standard  of  competence  attained 
IQ  either  mu^t  defiend  on  the  mind  and  bent  of  the  pupil  who  might  readily  excel 
in  one  but  fall  short  in  the  other,  not  heiag  even  distinguished  if  the  suljject  of  study 
were  undivided/* 

Plainly  and  finally.  Establish  a  chair  for  geography,  pur  et  simple.  The 
professor  occupyiog  it  may  be  left  to  impart  to  his  teaching  as  much  history  as  he 
pleads ;  there  is  no  rule  or  cumpulsion  here.  On  tho  other  hand,  biatory  i^  more  or 
less  dependent  on  geography,  and  it  were  wlU  to  define  precisely  what  and  how  much 
of  the  science  it  should  borrow  from  the  geograpliic^vl  chair.  His  own  impression  bad 
been  that  "political  ge(^mpby"  fibould  meet  all  its  possible  requirements;  but, 
unfortunately,  political  geography,  as  now  understood,  would  have  to  bo  reconsidered 
and  recast.  Here,  tbeo,  ia  the  aeiiaration — or  one  sepamtion^he  would  especially 
advocate,  and  for  this  reason.  There  are  many  pupils  whose  minds  are  so  constituted 
that,  wbile  content  to  study  both  sciences  with  ardour,  they  are  likely  to  attain  ex* 
ccUenc©  in  one  only,  and  where  that  one  is  hiistory,  the  supplement  of  geography 
iucluded  in  it,  if  carefully  chosen,  might  impart  that  very  essential  qualilication  for 
the  higher  services  of  State,  which  is  the  real  cause  of  political  usefulaess  and  im* 
dying  reputatiom 

Mr.  Frakcis  Galtok  said  the  word  "  geography,**  like  many  others,  was  used 
in  different  senses,  so  they  ought  to  be  grateful  to  Mr.  Mackinder  for  the  effort  he 
had  made  to  frame  a  de Coition  that  should  combine  the  suffrages  of  most  people. 
For  his  own  part  he  thought  tliat  an  eveu  simpler  definition  waa  ix)ssible,  namely, 
that  the  art  of  geography  was  to  give  a  vivid  and  connected  account  of  the  more 
intereating  charge terii^tics  of  s^%cified  districts.  The  art  of  giving  a  vivid  account 
was  an  extremely  rare  one.  He  was  sure  tbey  must  have  heard  in  that  room  many 
eminent  travellers  who  read  accounts  of  their  journeys,  and  yet  the  meeting  obtained 
from  them  but  a  very  slight  idea  of  the  country  tbey  had  visited,  it  was  extra- 
wrdinary  how  weak  ordinary  kmguage  was  in  expressing  visual  objects.  Who  could 
describe  a  face  in  that  room  in  such  a  way  that  another  person  who  had  never  seen 
it  before,  should  recognise  it  when  seen  ?  The  same  remark  applied  to  countries. 
ITiey  read  bouks  about  a  country  and  then  they  went  there,  and  found  it  to  be 
entirely  different  from  what  they  expected.  Now  one  of  the  arts  of  the  geo* 
aphicat  teacher  was  to  bring  vividly  before  the  raind  of  the  learoer  what  he 
rjsbcd  to  convey,  so  as  to  put  the  learner  as  far  as  possible  in  the  position  of  one 
who  had  actually  been  to  the  country.  That  art  was  somewhat  developed,  but 
needed  to  be  developed  a  groat  deal  more  by  illustrations,  photographs,  dec  Another 
art  of  the  geographical  teacher  was  to  give  a  connected  or  rational  account.  He  did 
not  himself  think  so  much  as  others  of  the  possibilities  of  geography  as  a  science  ; 
it^was  well  to  have  a  high  project,  hut  when  tbey  endeavoured  to  reason  out  tlie 
conditions  of  a  country,  they  found  that  at  the  present  time  tbey  knew  very  Ettle 
about  the  interaction  of  the  various  forces  of  nature.  Tbey  could  go  a  certain 
disitanoe ;  they  (»uld  easily  follow  as  far  as  a  shrewd  intelligent  man  could  go,  who 
had  at  the  same  time  a  little  more  than  a  bmatiering  of  the  principal  sciences ;  but 
to  suppose  that  any  one  could  really  reason  out  a  geographical  problem  in  all  its 
completeoess  in  the  same  way  that  be  could  a  mechanical  or  a  mathematical  one, 
seemed  to  him  to  be  supposing  a  great  deal  loo  much.  To  recur  to  the  deiuition, 
Vfchat  were  the  interesting  characteristics  of  a  oouutry  ?  There  were  different  people 
tu  be  interested  ;  that  which  intereated  the  strategist  did  not  interest  the  artist  or  the 
merchant ;  so  the  geographical  teacher  bad  to  consider  the  main  wants  and  wishes  of 


186 


ON  THE  SCOPE  A^D  METHODS  OF  GEOGRAPfiY^^BISCUSSEON. 


moBkind,  and  to  imme  his  book  or  teacblug  accord mgl jr.  At  tbc  j^resent  time  tho  i 
lioiies  for  the  Letter  leachiDg  of  geography  seemed  to  bo  in  a  critical  stage.  Last 
week  a  deptitatioD  of  thnio  members  of  the  council  met  the  committee  appointed  by 
the  governing  body  of  the  Univeraity  of  Oxford,  consisting  of  the  present  Vice- 
Chancelior^  the  late  A^ice- Chancellor,  and  three  other  distinguished  members  of  the 
University,  and  that  committee  manifested,  so  far  as  they  were  individually  con- 
cerned, a  sympathy  and  a  desire  to  help  the  objects  of  the  deputation.  During: 
the  present  week  another  deputation  would  go  down  to  Cambridge  to  have  an  inter- 
view with  the  authorities  there*  Both  Univcrsitiea  were  at  length  clearly  waking  up^ 
and  beginning  to  practically  throw  themselves  into  the  cause  of  geography.  At  this 
critical  time  it  was  a  great  thing  to  have  a  gentleman  Uke  Mr.  Mackinder,  of 
Uuiversity  distinction,  who  knew  his  own  mind,  who  had  attracted  large  audiences 
in  the  provinces,  who  was  enthusiastic  in  geography,  a  believer  in  his  cause,  and 
who,  he  was  sure,  would  leave  no  stone  unturned  to  further  the  inttirests  of  geo- 
gmphy — it  was  a  great  thing  to  have  such  a  man  taking  so  [jromincnt  a  j)art,  and 
ho  had  very  little  doubt  that  however  much  Mr.  Mackinder*M  theories  might  be 
criticised,  or  whatever  mistakes  he  might  make,  be  was  destined  to  leave  his  mark 
on  geographical  education, 

Mr,  T.  W,  Buxs  (Head  Master,  Bath  College)  said  his  preaenoe  at  the  meeting 
was  accounted  for  by  a  very  paradoxical  reason,  namely,  that  he  was  very  ignorant 
of  the  science  of  geography,  and  wanted  to  say  that  the  very  fact  of  his  ignorance 
was  some  reproach  against  the  present  state  of  geographical  teaching  in  the  land. 
It  had  failed  to  attract  him  throughout  a  life  devoted  to  many  brancbes  of  learning. 
It  had  not  commended  itself  to  him  in  its  present  form  as  an  instrument  of  instruc- 
tion. He  had  observed  that  both  teachers  and  learners  of  the  better  order  of  mind 
found  the  subject  of  geography  uninTiting,  and  would  have  as  little  of  it  as  they 
poBfiibly  could.  He  found  also  that  those  minds  to  whom  it  did  recommend  itself 
were  of  the  order  of  those  who  were  content  to  rest  in  facts  without  rising  into 
principles.  Ho  must  demur  to  the  view  tbat  Sir  Frederic  Goldsmid  set  forth  that 
the  subjects  taught  to  the  young  should  humour  their  weaknesses  and  idiosyncrafiies. 
It  seemed  to  him  that  if  a  boy  had  an  imperfect  organisation,  and  a  faulty  physi«^ 
development,  it  became  gymnastic  not  to  let  him  move  in  those  modes  which  were 
easy  to  him,  but  to  adopt  those  modes  which  were  most  helpful  for  him  w^en  he 
had  overcome  the  preliminary  difllculiies  of  being  set  right.  Among  his  own 
boys,  some  few  years  ago,  two,  in  almost  successive  years,  obtained  the  Society's 
medal,  but  tliey  were  boys  of  singular  inaptitude  for  studies  of  a  nobler  sort,  and  he 
could  not  but  thinkj  from  what  he  saw  of  them,  that  he  had  been  indulging  them  in 
their  devotion  to  a  catalogue  of  topographical  facts — in  a  weakness  that  he  ought  to 
have  corrected.  It  was  his  fortune  to  have  the  conduct  of  a  school  which  was  dis- 
tributed under  two  heads,  the  classical  and  the  modem  side.  The  modern  side, 
where  geography  was  chiefly  taught,  laboured  under  the  great  diflaculty,  that 
there  was  no  centrct  no  backbone  to  the  studies  tbat  the  boys  pursued ;  con- 
fiequcntly  they  were  disintegrated.  Their  minds  were  in  no  way  instructed  and  built 
up,  and  it  occurred  to  him  that  this  science  of  geography,  if  it  were  established  on  some 
such  baRis  aa  his  friend  Mr.  Mackinder  had  sketched,  would  servo  schools  in  excellent 
stead.  It  was  not  his  purpose  to  start  a  new  definition  of  geography,  but  it  seemed 
to  him  tbat  geograpby  was  very  well  defined  in  Mr.  Mackinder 's  language  as  the 
science  of  distributions.  It  would  occur  to  every  one  that  there  was  nothing  which 
was  not  distributed  on  the  carth*8  surface,  and,  therefore,  if  geography  was  a  science 
of  things  distributed  there  was  nothing  which  did  not  come  under  the  science.  It 
w^as  a  science  primarily  of  the  distribution  of  the  atr,  which  was  meteorology ;  it  was  a 
Bcienoe  of  the  diBtribution  of  land  and  water ;  it  was  a  science  of  the  distribution  of 


ON  THE  SCOPE  AND  MKTHODt;  OF  GEOOftAPHV.— DISCUSSION, 


1C7 


I 


I 


amtnalg^  which  waa  zoology — of  plaats,  which  was  botany — of  minerals,  which  was 
minemlogy — moreover,  it  was  a  science  of  military  iwsts,  and  then  it  was  military 
geography;  audi  indeed,  a  German  of  cnrioiia  ioquiry  had  been  mapping  out  tht* 
locality  of  genius  of  different  kinds,  so  Ihat  it  wa«  also  the  science  of  human 
ficulti<^  It  was  post  hope  that  any  man  could  be  found  to  combine  all  thogc 
various  elements.  But  if  so  defined,  geography  helped  to  teach  tbe  inter- 
dependence of  knowled^^e,  and  in  all  schooU  there  was  great  danger  of  breaking  up 
the  minds  of  the  boys  in  «iiecial  subjects ;  but  geography,  founded  on  lis  new  basis, 
would  afford  a  common  meeting  ground,  on  which  all  the  sciences  were  heard,  and 
a  boy  who  read  hia  history  by  the  light  of  geography  would  be  tempted  to  take 
to  geography  in  the  form  of  history  with  delight.  A  boy  who  icarnt  the  distribution 
of  plants,  learut  much  geography  incidetitaUy  ;  a  boy  who  learnt  zoology  would 
take  interest  in  the  geographical  aspect  of  the  distribation  of  animals;  and  so 
geography  was  fitted  to  brin;^  all  these  sciences  face  to  face,  and  to  teach  much 
of  their  interdependence,  'and  give  the  boy  that  unity  of  knowledge  which  was 
so  much  required.  It  ap|ieared  to  him  to  be  much  as  though  a  man  should 
profess  general  medicine  and  not  be  a  specialist  in  practice.  They  might  go  to 
the  general  practitioner  for  advice  with  regard  to  any  common  ailment,  and  so  they 
oouLl  go  to  a  geographer  for  general  information  with  regard  to  any  i»art  of  the  face 
of  the  globe.  Geography,  taught  on  the  principle  which  Mr.  Mackiudcr  advo- 
catedy  would  tend  to  induce  in  the  niiods  of  the  boys  in  the  modem  sides  of 
schools  a  disjtosition  to  regard  knowledge  as  a  whole.  He  would  be  extremely 
grateful  to  any  professor  at  cither  or  both  of  the  Universities  wbo  would  put  into 
the  hands  of  schoolmasters  some  text^book  which  would  combine  so  much  of  all 
thaw  sciences  as  might  be  taught  to  schoolboys  under  the  head  of  gcoi^raphy.  It 
would  be  useful  to  the  botanist,  to  the  military  student,  and  to  ev^ry  student,  but 
they  must  look  for  such  gcncmlisation  to  somebody  who  would  make  a  departure  on 
the  lines  advocated  by  Mr.  Mackinder. 

Rev.  Canon  Dakikl  (Princifial,  Battersea  Training  College)  said  that  he  had 
not  had  the  pleasure  of  hearing  Mr*  Mackinder  read  his  paper,  but  he  had  perused  it 
wiih  very  much  delight,  finding  it  eminently  suggestive  and  full  of  practical  value. 
He  would  venture  to  differ  from  Mr-  Mackinder  with  regard  to  some  of  the  con- 
clusions that  had  been  arrived  at.  He  would  not  stop  to  discuss  the  definition  of 
gieogTaphy,  for  that  was  a  mere  matter  of  words.  The  province  of  geography  would 
depend  very  much  upon  the  cmriculum  of  which  it  formed  a  part.  If  geology  was 
already  very  well  provided  for,  it  would  be  a  great  mistake  to  include  geology  as  part  of 
a  geographical  a>urse.  If  on  the  other  hand  geology  had  no  indei^endent  place  lu  the 
cnmculam,  so  much  of  it  should  be  taught  as  had  a  practical  bearing  on  geograpby. 
He  agreed  with  several  of  the  speakers  that  geogniphy  was  mainly  a  science  of  distiihu- 
tion;  it  aimed  at  accounting  for  the  distribution  of  man,  pre-eminently  by  the  con- 
ditions under  which  he  lived,  and  anybody  who  looked  at  the  maps  exhibited  on  the 
wall  would  see  how  very  close  the  connection  was.  There  were  three  maps  of 
Hiodostan  exhibited^  One  gave  the  (lOpuJation,  another  the  rainfall^  and  the  third  the 
mountain  and  river  system.  Clearly  there  was  a  very  close  interdependence  between 
the  three,  for  the  density  of  population  corresponded  very  closely  with  the  amount  of 
rainfall  Any  one  who  noticed  the  density  of  |Hipu]ation  in  the  valley  of  the  Ganges 
and  the  rainfall  there,  would  see  that  there  was  more  or  less  a  oortespcndence 
between  the  two,  and  also  a  correspondence  between  the  rainfall  and  the  mountain 
and  river  system  of  the  peninsula.  He  did  not  say  that,  given  the  physical  facti^, 
thiey  could  in  all  cases  reason  out  the  political  facts,  bat  he  did  say  that  when  they 
Itid  the  political  facts  they  might  find  physical  facts  to  aooaant  for  them*  There 
WIS  an  interdependence  between  the  facts  of  physical  geography  in  the  first  place  and 


J 


IM  ON  TEE  SCOPE  AUD  METHODS  OF  GEOGRAPHr.-^WSOUSSION. 

a  closer  conoection  between  political  and  phy ideal  facts  in  the  second.  It  was  only 
wben  Mr,  Mackinder  camo  to  tli©  methods  of  teaching  that  he  was  disposed  to 
disagree  with  hioi.  He  waa  astoninlied  that  Mr,  Mackinder  should  place  googmph y 
in  a  category  by  itself.  Why  should  it  be  treated  differently  from  any  other  induc- 
tive science  ?  Surely  the  reasouable  probability  was  that,  bo  far  as  it  was  an  indue* 
tive  science,  it  should  be  treated  like  any  other.  What  was  tbc  method  of  any 
mdnctive  science?  Was  it  to  start  with  an  hypotbesisj  with  a  succession  of 
hypotheses^  and  then  to  account  for  ihe  Lmls  ?  Or  was  it  not  rather  to  start  with  the 
facts  themselves,  to  collect  them,  to  classify  ihem,  then  to  form  hypotheses  that 
would  account  for  tliem,  and  then  to  verify  the  hypotheses?  That  wsis  jost  what 
Mr,  Mackinder  bad  not  done.  He  bad  very  graphically  and  forcibly  illustrated  his 
position  with  regard  to  the  south-ea*tcrn  portion  of  England,  and  as  he  s|x>ke  to  an 
audience  already  famUiar  with  the  facts  of  political  and  physical  geography,  do 
doubt  his  argument  was  very  much  enjoyed.  But  if  be  had  been  speaking  to  a 
class  ignorant  of  physical  geography^  and  of  the  political  facts  which  he  constantly 
assumed,  then  bis  theories  and  hypotheses  would  have  been  absolutely  meaninglesB. 
To  those  who  were  already  familiar  with  the  details,  such  a  ^cnerabsatioa  was 
helpful^  but  to  those  who  were  nut  familiar  with  the  details,  the  generalisation, 
instead  of  being  a  help,  was  a  hindrance.  Ho  could  not  but  think  that,  although 
many  of  Mr.  Mackinder  s  audiences  Imd  followed  him  with  very  much  interest,  yet 
it  was  doubtful  whether,  if  they  bad  been  examined  at  the  end  of  his  lectures,  the 
results  would  have  been  eminently  satisfactorj .  If  they  had  been,  then  his  audiences 
must  have  differed  from  the  rc*t  of  mankind,  for  inductive  science  was  much  the  same 
to  an  adult  as  to  a  child.  They  all  began  with  facts  rather  than  with  generalisations, 
and  in  pro{x>rtion  as  geography  was  a  science  of  generalisations  it  must  start  with 
the  accumulation  and  classification  of  facts.  He  did  not  distinctly  uuderetaud  from 
Mr.  Mackinder  to  what  class  and  what  age  and  state  of  development  hia  method  of 
teaching  was  applicable.  Was  it  to  be  followed  in  the  teaching  of  children,  or  in 
tbc  teaching  of  adults?  It  might  be  an  admirable  method  for  Uuivcrsity  men, 
assuming  that  wlien  they  were  children  they  bad  been  thoroughly  grounded  in  the 
elementary  facts  of  physical  imd  political  geography,  but  if  they  d,d  not  know  whero 
the  Thames  rt^se,  or  the  Kennet  ran,  or  where  Dungencss  was,  or  what  relation  tbts 
Isle  of  Wi^bt  bore  to  the  mainland,  tlitn  all  his  geuendisations  would  fall  meanmg- 
Icssly  on  the  ear.  His  contention  was  that  the  proper  course  of  teaching  geography 
was  to  begin,  not  where  Mr.  Mackinder  began,  but  at  tl)e  other  end,  not  build  the 
tacts  on  theory,  but  the  theory  on  facts.  The  great  mistake  that  bad  been 
made  was  not  that  they  had  begun  with  tbc  accumulation  of  facts^  but  had  stopped 
there.  They  had  done  very  little  indeed  towards  classifying  the  facts  and  showing 
their  interdependence,  and  whatever  iroprovementa  were  likely  to  be  made  in  the 
teaching  of  geography,  would  mainly  consist  in  bringing  out  very  clearly  tho  inter- 
dependence of  the  physical  facts  in  the  tlrst  place,  and  the  connection  between  the 
political  facta  and  the  physical  facts  on  which  they  were  dependent  in  the  next  place. 
Prof.  H.  G,  Seeley  (Professor  of  Geography,  King's  College)  said  it  was  some- 
what reluctantly  that  he  rose  to  speak  upon  the  subject  of  geography,  because  it 
was  extremely  difficult  to  say  auytbing  wis^ily  in  the  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  at  bis 
disposal,  which  should  afterwards  bear  fruit.  It  was  only  because  he  wished  to 
ejEpress  his  agreement  in  the  main  witb  the  views  which  Mr»  Mackinder  had  fut 
furward  that  he  rose  at  all.  For  eleven  years  in  King's  OoUego  he  had  publicly 
taught  geography,  and  delivered  regular  courses  of  lectiu-es  in  the  morning  and 
evening  classes;  but  it  required  many  years  of  study  before  he  ventured  to 
undertake  that  chair.  The  results  at  which  he  had  arrived  bad  enabled  him  to 
treat  geography  as  a  science,  and  to  meet  most  of  the  dilficulties  which  speakers 


ON  THE  SCOPE  AXD  METHODS  OF  GEOGR A? JIT. —DISCUSSION. 


109 


liid  mtsed  &t  that  meetings  because  tbey  were  not  familinr  with  the  metliods 
which  were  followed  in  teaching.  He  ohJL»€ted  Bltogether  to  the  idea  that  geography- 
was  a  meeting  ground  for  the  sciences.  Any  one  who  attempted  to  comprehend  the 
phenomena  of  geography  must  look  at  man  as  in  nature ;  and  therefore  looking 
backward  the  vista  carried  them  into  a  remote  past,  in  which  they  found  that  the 
phenomena  were  in  no  way  to  he  sejiarated  from  those  with  which  the  geologist 
dealt.  Very  many  of  the  familiar  features  of  our  own  country  were  oric^nated  in 
remote  '  geological  periods,  or  dependent  npon  the  geological  structure  of  the 
Chantry.  On  the  other  hand,  when  they  conceived  of  man  as  placed  in  a  worifl 
in  which  these  varied  physical  phenomena  influenced  him,  they  must  discover 
what  those  infiuences  were.  Granted  that  it  was  not  an  easy  matter  to  dis- 
eatADgle  iliemt  yet  they  could  he  taken  one  hy  one  and  examinefi  by  various 
methoda.  He  had  thus  disentangled  them  and  testetl  the  efiixst^  produced  hy  com- 
puison  with  the  |>eoplcs  of  the  various  countries  of  Europe ;  and  he  had  found  that 
tlie  flftine  laws  which  held  true  for  the  determination  of  th*?  main  moral  and  mental 
characteristics  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  various  districts  of  England,  operated  also  in 
France,  Germany,  and  the  main  j>ortions  of  the  world  in  which  laws  could  he 
determined  on  the  basis  of  similar  facta.  It  would  be  readily  comprehended  that 
when  a  subject  reached  over  such  a  wide  field  it  was  eitreraely  diflficult  to  say  in  a 
few  minutes  anything;  of  a  general  nature  which  would  make  its  scope  clear. 
He  would  limit  himself  to  the  remark  that  he  entirely  agreed  with  Canon  Daniel,  that 
if  gieograpby  was  to  be  taught  to  young  j>cople  the  condition  must  be  considered!  that  the 
reudhing  powers,  which  were  necessary  to  deal  with  such  aspects  of  the  flubject  as  he 
hod  referred  t*\  were  not  develope<l  until  the  age  of  somewhere  about  fourteen  was 
loaehed  ;  and  therefore,  in  the  earlier  period  of  life,  although  a  tew  of  tlie  larger  aspects 
in  which  law  manifested  itself  in  connection  with  geogiaphy  ml'^ht  be  taught, 
teachers  must  limit  themselves  to  teaching  the  larger  order  of  facta  rather  than  their 
erplanation.  The  thing  which  bad  retarded  the  scientific  teaching  of  geography  was 
the  ezamioation  system  with  which  it  was  clogged.  The  examiners  were  not  thcm- 
fielves  educated  into  an  appreciation  of  the  largo  philosophical  bearings  of  the  subject, 
and  they  had  been  so  Baturaled  with  the  facts  that  tbey  had  prevented  the  students 
from  acquiring  a  philosophical  conception  of  the  rea,sons  for  the  collocation  of  those 
(acts,  by  insliting  mainly  upon  the  obvious  fact4S  being  stated  in  examination  jiapers.  So 
long  as  this  prevailed,  so  long  would  it  he  perfectly  hopeless  to  expert  geography  to  be 
taught  in  the  schools  in  a  scientific  way.  He  would,  however,  take  exception  to 
Canon  Daniel*s  remark  that  geography  was  to  be  defined  by  the  curriculum  of 
which  it  formctl  a  jmrt.  It  was  perfectly  independent  of  all  curricula  ;  it  was  a 
heginnisg  and  an  end ;  and  although  its  foundation  was  baaed  on  geology,  its  end 
became  the  philosophy  of  history.  It  was  true  that  a  broad  glance  and  grasp 
might  be  taken  w^hich  would  include  the  whole  world;  or  they  might  limit 
themselves  to  the  geography  of  a  region  such  as  Europe,  or  to  tbo  geography 
of  EngUnd,  each  of  those  subjects  being  complete  in  itself ;  but  whether  they 
took  the  largest  or  the  smallest  view,  they  found  man  influenced  by  nature  iu 
Tarioos  ways,  and  the  teaching  of  this  relation  required  varied  knowledge  and 
varied  power  in  proportion  to  the  field  which  it  included*  But  there  was  a 
definite  beginning,  and  that  beginning  was  most  certainly  a  geological  one.  He 
TCDttired  to  say  that  there  was  not  a  contotir  of  covist-ltnc  which  was  not  deter- 
mined by  laW|  and  which  the  geologist  did  not  easily  and  perfectly  explaia  the 
existence  of.  He  referred  not  merely  to  the  main  general  directions  of  land,  but 
also  to  the  existence  of  the  inlets  into  the  land.  Tbey  were  all  in  [positions  which 
could  not  \te  varied,  and  until  a  man  or  a  boy  was  familiarised  with  the  prin- 
ciples which  governed  these  things  it  was  perfectly  gratuitous  to  rest  content  with 


ITO  OS  THE  SCOPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGRAPHY,— DISCUSSION.  ■ 

the  idea  tliat  he  knew  the  position  of  the  Wasb,  wlien  lie  did  not  know  why  it  wa^fl 
there.    He  (ProfeBsor  Seeley)  would  therefore  not  be  content  with  atjy  descriptiotj,  no4 
matter  bow  vivid  it  might  be,     A   description  of  geographical   phenomena  vpas^ 
aeoeaaarily  vivid  when    it  carried  with  it   the  reasons  for  the  existenco  of  the 
phenomena ;  and  the  moment  it  was  realised  that  the  various  features  of  nature, 
whether  they  referred  to  the  earth  or  to  maa,  admitted  of  bein^  explained,  and  tliat 
it  waa  the  duty  of  the  geographer  to  explain  them,  then  they  were  placed  on  a  special 
ground.     At  present  they  must  be  content,  so  far  as  schools  were  concerned,  to  teach 
facta  mainly.     It  would  probably  be  a  long  time  before  teachers  were  sufficiently 
educated  to  teach  geography  wisely,  so  that  the  student  was  taught  to  think  on 
every  subject,  and  would  get  in  his  training  tho  same  mental  development  as  he 
would  get  from  the  more  severe  mathematical  and  other  technical  studies.     Tho 
training^  however,  was  to  be  got,  and  it  depended  entirely  on  the  teacher  whether  it 
waa  obtained  or  not. 

Mr.  J.  Bryce,  M.P.,  said  be  felt  a  great  deal  of  difficulty  in  venturing  to  make 
any  observations,  because  he  had  not  the  advantage  of  having  been  present  when  the 
paper  was  read,  though  he  had  seen  it  since,  and  he  did  not  know  what  were  the 
issiiea  raised  in  the  discussion  aud  which  the  members  of  the  Society  had  chiefly 
before  their  mindB,  llio  speeches  just  delivered  had,  however,  given  him  some  indi- 
cation aa  to  what  these  points  were.  He  heartily  agreed  with  the  view  which  had 
been  presented  by  Mr,  Maekinder,  and  greatly  admired  the  singuhir  clearness,  logical 
cogeucyj  and  width  of  philosophical  view  by  which  the  paper  had  been  marked. 
Mr.  Mackinder  succcetk'd  very  well,  not  only  in  defining  his  genera!  position 
and  point  of  view,  but  in  showing  by  happy  illustrations  the  way  in  which  that 
point  of  view  was  capable  of  being  worked  out  and  applied  to  different  minor 
departments  of  geographical  investigation.  Ho  had  been  a  little  surprised  to  hear 
Sir.  (jalton  speak  of  geographical  teaching  as  if  it  were  mainly  a  matter  of  descrijv 
tion.  It  was  also  with  some  surprise  that  he  had  heard  the  view  expressed  that 
geography  was  concerned  chiefly  with  distribution,  and  that  the  main  business 
of  the  geographical  teacher  was  to  give  facts.  The  study  would  become  infinite 
if  they  were  to  occupy  themselves  chiefly  with  giving  the  facts  ou  which 
generalisation  must  be  based.  He  understood  that  they  were  considering  geography 
from  the  point  of  view  of  a  University  professor,  and  that  they  were  to 
assume  that  the  students  would  be  reasonably  supplied  with  the  main  facts.  A 
knowledge  of  the  facts  should  be  assumed,  and  if  nccesjfary  the  teacher  should  issue 
a  statement  telling  what  subjects  he  was  goiug  to  lecture  njwn,  and  suggesting  to 
students  that  they  should  come  prepared  with  ajeasouable  amount  of  preliminary 
knowledge.  That  being  assumed,  w  ns  it  not  the  case  that  geography  was  not  a 
science  of  description  nor  of  distribution,  but  of  causality,  that  its  function  was  to 
exhibit  the  way  in  which  a  variety  of  physical  causes  played,  firstly  upon  one 
another,  and  secondly  upon  man,  and  that  the  duty  of  a  University  professor  of 
geography  would  bo  best  discharged  when  he  dealt  with  the  elementary  causes,  and 
showed  the  students  by  successive  stages  bow  each  cause  passed  into  a  secondary  or 
subsidiary  cause,  until  the  world  as  it  is  now  was  arrived  at.  A  geographer  would 
naturally  begin  with  the  distribution  of  land  and  sea^  and  ivitb  tho  distribution  of 
the  great  centres  of  formative  force  which  had  made  the  earth's  surface  what  it  it. 
He  would  therefore  show  how  it  was  that  the  world  had  been  made  to  consist  of 
continents,  islands,  oceans,  and  would  explain  the  directions  of  mountain  chains^ 
He  would  then  pass  on  to  consider  the  distribution  of  winds  and  rain,  which  de- 
pended on  the  distribution  of  land  and  sea,  and  upon  the  degree  of  elevation  of  parts 
of  the  dry  surface.  Thus  there  woald  be  introduced  another  set  of  causes  which 
were  themselves  originally  due  to  the  distribution  of  land  and  sea.    Next  he  would 


ON  THE  SCOPE  AKD  METHODS  OF  OEOGRAPirr.— DJSCUSSIOX. 


171 


I 


explain  the  workiiig  of  these  meteorological  causes,  sli owing  how  they  affected  the 
dktribation  of  vegetfttion  (since  the  quantity  and  nature  of  vegelatioa  depended 
mainly  on  nunfall  and  temperature),  and  would  examine  the  resulting  fertility  and 
productive  power  of  different  districts.  The  whole  theory  of  botany  and  zoology 
most  be  worked  out  with  reference  to  rainfall,  and  the  rainfall  itself  is  of  course 
coDditioned  by  the  distribution  of  sea,  the  infiuence  of  the  sun's  heat,  and  other 
cosmic  causes.  The  teacher  would  then  pass  on  to  consider  how  all  these 
censes  operated  upon  mau,  and  detemiined  the  course  of  human  history.  In 
that  way  it  seemed  to  him  that  geography  was  really  the  tracing  out  of  various 
caiuea,  some  of  which  continue*!  to  oi^erate  directly,  and  some  set  in  motion 
other  canses,  and  the  condition  of  the  earth  at  present  and  human  history  as  it 
had  gone  on  on  the  earth  were  the  complex  result  of  the  joint  operation  of  all 
these  causes.  To  show  how  these  causes  operateti  one  upon  another  was  the  main 
function  of  a  professor  of  geography.  While,  therefore,  the  study  of  geography 
developed  a  philosophical  habit  of  mind  it  also  cultivated  the  imagination,  because 
there  was  nothing  that  excited  the  imagination  more  than  the  consideration  of  lar^e 
forces  operating  over  large  periods  of  time  and  in  different  ways*  It  also  developed 
the  faculties  of  observation,  and  it  seemed  to  him  that  it  would  have  a  very  im- 
portant function  at  the  Universities  in  littiug  men  to  become  travellers.  Nothing 
was  more  remarkable  in  our  modern  world  than  the  rapid  development  of  cheap 
meana  of  communication,  and  tbe  extent  to  which  they  were  used.  Let  them 
compare  the  interest  with  which  ordinary  people  travelled  over  the  earth*a  surface 
now,  with  the  opportunities  they  had  to  acquire  knowledge  of  other  countries 
100  years  ago,  and  they  would  see  the  progress  the  world  had  made  was  as  remark- 
able in  that  respect  as  in  any  other.  How  differently  a  man  profited  by  his  travel 
if  he  had  been  taught  to  observe,  wherever  he  went,  the  nature  and  direction  of  the 
mountain  ranges,  the  kind  of  rocks,  and  the  influence  they  had  on  the  direction  of 
Btieams  and  lakea,  and  how  the  meteorology  of  a  country  influenced  it,  and  how  all 
these  canses  played  upion  the  flora  and  faima.  If  a  man  travelled  with  knowledge  of 
that  kind  he  found  a  constant  delight  and  interest  in  visiting  different  i^arts  of 
the  world  which  was  entirely  absent  if  those  lines  of  inquiry  were  closed  to  him, 
and  he  believed  in  thetio  matters  it  was  not  so  much  the  mere  facta  that  it  was  the 
duty  of  a  professor  to  teach  as  the  metho<L  Let  them  give  their  students  a  clear 
comprehension  of  the  true  method  of  study.  Let  them  take  one  particular  country 
or  one  particular  branch  of  the  subject^  such  ns  tbe  meteorology  or  the  geology,  or 
the  diatribution  of  agricultural  products,  and  deal  wnth  it  in  a  philosojihical  way, 
ahowing  how  the  action  of  various  causes  is  mingled,  and  then  a  mind  of  reasonable 
iatdligence  would  find  it  easy  to  apply  that  method  in  other  matters  and  other 
^beres.  He  would  like  to  add  one  word  to  the  effect  that  in  these  matters  we  must 
look  for  good  results  mainly  from  influencing  and  training  highly  a  comparatively 
imall  number  of  personB.  Ho  did  not  feel  very  hopeful  at  present  about  the  study  of 
geography  in  schools,  for  it  was  hard  to  find  time  there  for  a  new  study  like  geography, 
wluch  had  been  hitherto  taught  in  such  a  way  that  it  could  scarcely  be  said  to  have 
been  taught  at  all.  The  direction  in  which  they  might  look  for  improvement  was  in 
implanting  just  ideas  of  philosophic  method  in  a  comparatively  small  number.  If 
a  class  of  twenty  men  who  were  to  become  tcacbers  in  the  great  schools  were  to 
receive  a  training  in  geography  such  as  Mr*  Mackinder  recommended,  it  would 
fiwcinate  their  minds,  and  not  only  geography  but  every  subject  which  came  into 
connection  with  geography  would  he  vivified  and  permeated  with  it,  and  the  same 
ideas  and  methods  would  by  degrees  filter  through  and  spread  among  the  colleges 
and  echools  of  the  country,  until  an  intelligent  comprehension  of  the  earth's  surface 
would  come  to  be  a  part  of  common  knowledge.    They  must  therefore  not  be  dis- 


172  ON  THE  SCOPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGRAPHr.— DISCUSS iOX. 

contented  if  they  were  not  able  at  first  to  operate  on  a  very  large  sph&re.  It  was  of 
much  more  importance  that  a  smail  number  of  superior  mioda  ahould  be  imbued 
with  good  methods,  and  be  able  to  practise  them,  thnu  that  methods  of  a  more 
mechanical  kind  should  be  taught  to  a  larger  number  of  persons. 

Mr.  Delhab  Morgan  said  that  as  he  waa  preseut  at  Birmingham  when  Bir 
Frederic  Goldsmid  delivered  his  address,  he  was  very  pleased  to  have  heard  his  defence. 
The  result  of  the  address  was  that  the  British  Association  appointed  a  Committee  to 
exercise  their  iniluenco  on  the  Uuiversitiea  of  Oxford  and  Cambridge  in  order  to 
interest  them  m  the  cause  of  geographical  edtication.  He  hoj^ed  that  Mr.  Mackinder 
would  give  two  or  three  words  of  explanation  with  regard  to  a  few  points  in  his 
j>aper.  How  did  the  discovery  of  America  cause  the  fall  of  Venice  ?  How  did  arti- 
ticial  lighting  render  possible  the  existeoce  of  a  great  community  in  St.  Petersburg? 

Mr.  Douglas  FreshfieI-d  said  that  on  the  whole  the  speakers  had  stuck  very 
well  to  the  subject  of  discussion,  namely  on  what  general  lines  geography  should  Ise 
taught.  Mr,  Markham,  to  whom  Mr.  Mackinder's  paper  had  been  referred^  had  in 
hiB  Report  to  the  Council  of  the  Society  summarised  excellently  its  main  points.  He 
would  read  extracis  from  Mr.  Markbam'a  report  which,  coming  from  one  who  had 
been  Secretary  of  the  Society  for  twenty-five  years,  would  carry  more  weight  than 
any  words  of  his  own,  Mr.  Markham  wrote,  **  The  question  which  Mr.  Mackinder 
discusses  is  w^hether  the  science  of  geogmphy  is  one  investigation,  or  whether  physical 
and  political  geograpliy  are  separate  subjects  to  he  studied  by  different  methods,  the 
one  as  an  appendix  of  geology,  the  other  of  history.  He  contends  for  the  former 
view,  and  that  no  rational  political  geography  can  exist  which  is  not  built  upou,  and 
subsequent  to,  physical  geography .  The  present  system,  he  maintains,  is  an  irra- 
tional i»litical  geograpliy,  a  body  of  isolated  data  to  be  committed  to  memory- 
It  is  like  learning  mathemaiica  by  trying  to  remember  forainla;  instead  of  grasping 
principles.  A  true  geographer,  taking  up  the  central  geographical  posit ioD,  should 
look  equally  on  such  parts  of  science  and  such  facta  of  history  as  are  ijertineiit  to  hia 
inqniryp  His  work  ia  to  bring  out  the  relations  of  special  subjects.  The  more 
BCientitic  investigation  tends  to  specialism,  the  more  necessity  is  there  for  students 
whose  aim  it  shall  he  to  briog  out  the  relations  of  the  sfiecial  subjects.  One  of  the 
j^reatest  gaps  lies  between  the  natural  sciences  and  the  study  of  humanity;  it  is  the 
duty  of  the  geographer  to  build  a  bridge  over  this  abyss,  which  is  upsetting  the 
equilibrium  of  our  culture.*'  Mr.  Markham  coutinucib  '*  1  am  inclined  to  nnticipate 
that  the  rca(3ing  and  consideration  of  tluH  poi)cr  will  form  an  era  iu  the  history  of 
our  Society/'  On  some  points  he  (Mr,  Fresh  field)  might  be  disfjosed  to  differ  from 
Mr.  Mackinder.  Mr.  MackindeKs  definition  of  geography  appeared  to  him  a  summary 
uf  his  scholastic  method  rather  than  a  final  definition  of  the  science  itself.  He 
should  perhaps  define  it  as  the  science  which  examined  the  face  of  the  earth,  the 
causes  and  connections  of  its  featm^s,  and  the  relations  between  them  and  its 
deniacus.  But  he  should  be  sorry  to  see  time  s]>ent  in  endeavours  to  frame  rigid 
definitions.  What  was  wanted  was  a  clear  and  liberal  view  of  the  functions  of 
geography  as  the  main  meeting-jK>iut  l)tt\v(.<n  the  sciences  of  nature  and  of  man, 
and  its  thorough  adoption  of  this  poiot  of  vieW|  which  the  speaker  had  himself  urged 
at  Birmingliam,  was  one  great  merit  of  Mr*  Mackinder's  address.  He  thought  that 
Canon  Daniel  had  rather  confused  geography  as  a  scientific  pursuit  with  geography  as 
a  ficholaatic  discipline.  In  scientific  research  the  true  methoti  was,  no  doubt,  to 
collect  facts  iu  order  to  deduce  principles  and  laws  from  them.  But  in  teaching,  the 
laws  laid  down  by  research  must  be  enforced  and  illustrated  by  individual  facts.* 
**  The  general  truths,"  as  Mr.  John  Morley  has  said,  **  are  the  means  of  lighting 
up  the  particulars^,^  It  had  been  objectetl  also  to  the  method  advocated  by  Mr. 
Mackinder  that  it  was  not  practical,  that  it  would  not  aSect  schools,  and  was  not 


i 


ON  THE  SCOPE  AND  METHODS  OF  GEOGRAPHY.— DISCUSSIOK. 


173 


I 


suited  for  examiDMioDB.  Aa  a  fact»  the  attencUnta  at  Mr,  Mackioder's  lecttirea 
had  been  examined  ia  tbetn.  He  wished  to  read  an  accotiot  of  their  succesa,  sent  by 
the  Secretary  of  the  Oxford  University  Extension,  the  lectures  of  wbicli  were 
given  to  working  and  middle-class  audiences  in  the  north  and  west  hy  gratluates 
of  Oxford,  "  Since  the  above  was  written  I  have  received  reports  from  Saliabury 
and  Manchester  as  to  the  suocess  of  Mr.  Mackinder*a  lectures.  On  Tuesday, 
February  8tU,  a  meeting  was  held  of  all  the  elementary  achool  teacbera  attend- 
ing Mr.  Ma<^inder8  lecturer  on  geography  at  Manchester.  They  numbered 
105.  Ilie  teacliers  IhemselveH  pointed  out  that  the  fact  that  the  fifth  lecture 
of  the  course  was  attended  by  m  br;4e  a  number  was  an  indication  of  the 
way  in  which  the  lectures  were  appreciateii  The  head  masters  and  mistressoa 
calculated  that  the  geographical  teaching  of  6000  pupils  was  affected  by  the 
delivery  of  one  course  on  the  subject  in  Manchester.**  That  showtd  that  the 
proupect  of  teaching  geography  aa  a  branch  of  etWcation  which  would  call  into 
play  the  reasoning  powers,  was  likely  to  be  realised  in  the  immediate  future,  and 
that  by  encouraging  teachinj^  of  that  sort  the  Geographical  Society,  both  at  the 
Universities  and  in  elementary  schools,  might  do  a  great  deal  of  good.  Mr. 
Mackinder  bad  suggested  that  the  supply  of  papers  of  discovery  and  adventure 
was  likely  to  become  exhausted  because  the  world  was  being  used  up.  He  did  not 
at  ail  agree  witli  that.  The  w^orld  was  not  nsed  up  yet.  For  iostanoe,  there  was 
New  Guinea^  in  which  **  Captain  Lawson  **  some  years  ago  ventured  to  invent  the 
story  of  the  discovery  of  Mount  Hercules,  32,000  feet  high  ;  the  South  Pole,  large 
tracts  of  Aaia  and  South  America,  many  remote  and  remarkable  islands.  There  was 
still  room  for  tales  of  adventure;  but  ho  would  put  his  objection  on  different 
grounds.  He  did  not  consider  that  any  region  had  been  explored  until  it  had  been 
deacribed  by  a  person  of  some  percepiion.  Mr.  Gal  ton  said  there  were  very  few 
people  who  could  find  words  to  describe  what  they  saw.  It  was  perhaps  not  so 
much  the  words  as  the  ]_>ower  of  observation  that  was  wanting.  The  number  of 
good  narratives  of  travel  was  compamtively  small,  liecause  the  perception  of  English 
travellers  was  so  often  limited  and  untraineci  In  this  connection  he  w^ould  read  to 
the  meeting  some  sentences  from  an  article  by  bis  friend,  Mr.  Conway  (Profe&sor  of 
Art  at  Liverpool),  in  the  last  number  of  the  *  Alpine  Journal,*  Mr.  Conway  was 
discussing  the  exhaustion  of  the  Alps  as  a  literary  subject^  but  it  seemed  to  him 
that  what  he  said  might,  muiatis  mitlmidU^  be  applied  to  the  larger  literature  of 
geoeral  traveU  *'  The  credit  due  to  explorers  can  only  be  measured  by  the  utility 
of  their  work  to  others.  The  first  visit  is  ih  ere  fore  the  first  recorded  visit— the  first 
visit  80  recorded  that  others  are  enabled  to  follow  where  the  first  man  forceil  his  way 
in  doubt  and  j^erplexity.  An  unrecorded  journey  is  nothing ;  one  badly  recorded  is 
worth  little  more.  The  man  who  only  visits  a  remote  region,  and  contents  himself 
with  stating  the  fact,  can  only  be  regarded  ns  ewaggeriag.  If  he  records  his  route 
in  plain  language,  he  deserves  thanks.  If  he  so  records  it  that  readers  can  discover 
its  interest  and  beauty  compnred  with  the  interest  and  beauty  of  other  routes,  he 
deserves  much  more  credit.**  He  would  like  to  a^nk  any  Fellow  who  had  been 
accustomed  to  attend  the  meetings  of  the  Society,  how  many  countries  they  had 
heard  described  which  they  did  not  wish  to  hear  described  again  by  somebody  with 
vivid  jjerceptions.  One  means  of  training  the  power  of  pereeptiou  in  travellers  was^ 
to  give  better  geogmphical  education  in  English  schools  and  Universities ;  they  had 
boeo  told  over  and  over  again  that  the  only  way  to  secure  that  was  to  get  capable. 
leifiliiefa,  and  to  make  teachers  they  must  secure  geography  its  proper  poaition  at  the 
Universities  which  trained  the  teachers.  He  hoped  that  in  this  way  brilliant 
[jajiers  of  adventure,  discovery,  and  research  would  be  obtained  by  the  Society  fjr  its 
Journal  and  its  meetings,  so  that  every  taste  might  be  satisfied. 

No*  in.— March  1887.]  o 


171 


ON  THE  SCOPE  AKD  METHODS  OF  GKOGKAPHr.— DISCUSSION. 


Mr.  Macsinder  said  that  be  was  surprised  at  the  general  UDaaimity  which  had 
characterised  the  proceedings,  and  he  felt  gratified  that  any  i>aper  of  his  should  have 
Leea  the  cause  of  bringiDg  out  from  what  he  might  call  the  authority  on  geography 
so  unaoimons  an  opinion  as  to  what  geography  was.  In  the  world  outside  there  was 
an  opinion  that  geographers  did  not  know  their  own  minds,  and  were  Bot  certain  as 
to  the  limits  of  their  own  science.  Ho  therefore  felt  that  the  opinions  which  had 
been  expressed  by  the  difiTerent  speakers  would  have  a  considerable  effect,  and  be 
was  gratified  that  hia  pajser  had  been  the  means  of  clicitinc;  that  opinion.  Part  of 
the  discussion  that  had  taken  place  had  been  on  words  rather  than  on  tbing».  Sir 
Frederic  Goldsmld  had  contrasted  theodolites  with  theoriea.  He  (Mr.  Mackinder) 
did  not  undervalue  the  work  done  by  explorers  and  by  those  who  had  to  undertjike 
the,  i>erhapa,  more  difficult  and  drier  work  of  Ordnance  Surveying,  but  be  submitteil 
that  until  the  reason  of  tlio  facta  obeer^'c^i  by  the  instniment  was  given,  they  bad 
not  reached  a  scientific  stage,  however  skilfully  the  iufitruments  were  manipulated. 
In  reply  to  Canon  Daniel  he  would  say  that  his  experience  tended  to  show  thatt 
when  teaching  elementary  geography,  the  best  way  was  not  to  teach  the  facts  first 
and  then  tho  principles,  but  to  combine  the  two,  and  teach  tbe  facts  incidentally 
while  explaining  the  principles.  He  could  not  help  feeling  that  that  was  the  wa^^ 
in  which  all  hut  the  ABC  of  geography  should  be  taught.  Obviously^  in  bis  paper 
b«  waa  not  referring  to  the  most  elementary  pupils,  but  he  believed  tliat  bia  system, 
properly  diluted,  would  be  applicable  to  them  also.  With  rej^ard  to  geography  as 
the  science  of  distribution,  he  thought  that  Professor  Bryce  had  clearly  mistaken  the 
sense  that  he  attached  to  the  expression.  What  he  (Mr.  Mackinder)  meant  by  it 
was  not  merely  the  enumeration  of  tho  distributions,  but  the  causation  and  the 
connection  of  the  distri  but  ions. 

The  Cbaikman  (General  R.  Strachey)  said  be  thought  that  many  of  the  obeer- 
vations  which  had  been  made  might,  with  due  respect,  be  termed  rather  academical 
in  their  diameter,  stilt  they  had  all  no  doubt  been  useful.  A  certain  amount  of 
misconception  seemed  however  to  have  arisen  amongst  some  of  the  speakers  as  to 
what  the  others  meant,  and  there  bad  j^crhaps  been  a  little  want  of  precision  as  to 
the  distinction  between  what  geography  was  as  a  science  and  what  was  its  practical 
utility,  and  what  the  best  method  of  teaching  it,  Jlr.  Galton  had  also  spoken  of 
geograpliy  as  involving  the  art  of  geographical  description.  The  fact  of  the  matter 
-was  that  geography,  like  all  mixed  sciences,  might  be  viewed  in  ten  thousantl  ways, 
but  all  those  ways  were  useftd  and  valnahli'.  The  same  might  K^  Kaid  with  regard 
to  the  methods  of  teaching,  whether  it  was  Mr,  MackindeT*s  particular  way,  or  Canon 
Daniers,  or  Prof.  Seeley's,  or  Mr,  Dunn*a,  they  were,  be  had  no  doubt,  all  very  good. 
All  the  speakers  had  shown  that  they  really  apj^reciated  the  pro[>er  manner  in  which 
geogniphy  should  be  taught,  and  he  would  say  to  tliem  all,  **  Go  on  your  own  way." 
Why  should  they  make  a  Procrustean  bed  and  compel  peo])le  to  deal  vdih.  the 
subject  in  any  particular  manner?  That  was  not  the  way  in  which  science  grew  or 
would  grow.  Let  everybody  exercise  bis  ingenuity  in  the  manner  which  to  him  was 
apparently  the  most  conductive  to  the  object  he  bad  in  view.  If  any  one  wanted  to 
know  what  his  own  opinions  on  the  subject  were,  he  would  mention  that  ten  years 
ago  he  read  a  discourse  before  the  Society,  on  the  subject  of  Scientific  Geography, 
and  he  would  refer  them  to  this  |kiper  whicli  was  printed  in  the  *  Proceedings'  of  the 
Society.  Ho  did  not  find,  on  reconsidering  the  subject  recently,  that  be  bad  very 
much  to  change  in  what  be  then  said. 

A  vote  of  thanks  to  Jlr.  Mackinder  concluded  the  proceedings. 


(     175     ) 


Mr.  A,  D.  Carey's  Travels  in  Turhistan  and  Tibet. 

The  attention  of  geographers  lias  been  so  mucli  occupied  of  late  by  tlie 
prooeedings  of  General  Prejevalsky  in  Chinese  Tnrkistan  and  Northern 
Tibet,  that  the  explorations  of  Mr.  Carey  in  those  regions  haye  been 
scarcely  noticed.  Yet  Mr.  Carey's  journey  has  been  as  important  and 
interesting  as  that  of  the  Eussian  officer.  Mr.  Carey  is  a  member  of  the 
Bombay  Civil  Service,  who  is  devoting  two  years'  furlough  to  travelling, 
at  his  own  expense,  over  what  may  be  fairly  described  as  almost  the 
last  of  the  unexplored  regions  of  Asia.  He  is  accompanied  by  Mr. 
Andrew  Dalgleish,  whose  name  is  known  as  the  pioneer  British  trader  in 
Chinese  Turkistan,  and  who  joined  Mr.  Carey  as  Turki  interpreter  and 
general  assistant ;  the  remainder  of  the  party  is  made  up  of  pony  drivers 
and  two  or  three  personal  attendants.  Mr.  Carey  left  India  in  May 
1885,  and  inarched  through  the  hills  to  Ladak,  where  he  adopted  the 
plan  of  travelling  eastward  into  Northern  Tibet  (Ch6ngt4n)  as  fiEur  as 
the  Mdngtsa  Lake,  and  thence  striking  northward  till  he  should  descend 
on  the  plains  of  Turkistan,  near  Eiria.  This  plan  was  successfully 
carried  out  during  August  and  September  1885,  and  resulted  in  more 
than  300  miles  of  country  being  traversed  which  had  never  before  been 
visited  by  a  European  of  any  nationality.  The  altitudes  on  this  section 
of  the  journey  were  always  very  great,  the  track  running  usually  at 
about  16,000  feet  above  the  sea,  while  one,  at  least,  of  the  passes  crossed 
was  calculated  to  reach  19,000  feet.  In  descending  from  the  Tibetan 
highlands  towards  Eiria,  an  extremely  difficult  defile  had  to  be  passed, 
where  five  days  were  taken  up  in  making  good  a  distance  of  28  miles. 
A  short  stay  was  made  at  Eiria,  and  a  somewhat  longer  one  at  Ehotan, 
where  General  Prejevalsky's  party  was  camped  on  Mr.  Carey's  arrival. 
The  two  explorers,  however,  did  not  meet,  the  former  being  then  just  on 
^the  point  of  starting  for  Aksu  and  Bussian  territory,  while  the  latter  had 
to  fit  himself  out  with  a  new  oaravan  of  camels  for  crossing  the  desert 
to  Euchdr.  In  this  way  it  happened  that  for  a  portion  of  the  journey 
towards  Euchdr,  Mr.  Carey  had  to  follow  the  Russian  explorer,  but  for 
the  remainder — the  greater  part — he  can  claim  to  be  the  first  European 
ever  to  traverse  these  dismal  plains.  The  route  lay  down  the  Ehotan 
river  to  its  junction  with  the  Tarim ;  then  along  the  latter  river  to 
Sarik,  and  thence  across  another  stretch  of  desert  to  Shah-Yar  and 
Euchar.  From  the  latter  place,  after  a  halt  to  renew  the  caravan,  a  fresh 
start  was  made,  when  the  Tarim  was  followed  down  to  a  point  where  it 
turns  southward  towards  Lake  Lob.  But  the  Euchar  pack  animals 
were  in  bad  condition,  and  Mr.  Carey  found  it  expedient  to  leave  the 
river  for  a  time,  and  visit  the  towns  of  Eurla  and  Edrdshahr,  with  the 
object  of  replacing  them.    All  arrangements  being  finally  completed  by 

o  2 
# 


176 


im.  A,  i\  CAREY'S  TRAVELS  IN  TURKISTAN  AND  TIBET, 


about  the  end  of  the  year,  the  Tarim  was  Btnick  again,  immediately 
Bouth  of  Knrla,  and  traolced  to  Lake  Lob. 

Thus  the  whole  length  of  the  Tarim  has  been  explored.   The  country 
along  its  course  is  d escribed  as  flat  and  reedy,  and  the  people  extrornely 
poor  and  miserable;  at  the  villages  near  Lob,  fodder  was  bo  deficient 
that  Mr.  Carey  bad  to  pitch  his  standing  camp  for  the  latter  part  of  the 
winter  (about  February  to  April)  at  a  village  called  Chaklik,  some 
distance  south  of  the  lake,  and  close  to  the  foot  of  the  great  raoge  of 
mountains  which  forms  the  northern  scarp  of  the  Tibetan  highlands. 
This  long  bait  was  utilised  in  preparing  for  a  journey  southward  into 
Tibet  as  soon  as  the  season  should  permit ;  and  it  happened  eventually 
that  a  now  departure  was  made  on  the  30tb  April,   1886,     The  route 
was  then  to  have  been  over  a  pass  in  the  great  range  (the  Altyn  Tagh, 
or  **gold  mountains,"  according  to  Prcjevalsky),  and  onward  by  a  track 
occasionally  nsod  by  the  Kalmaks  in  their  expeditions  to  Tibet,  and 
indicated  by  them  to  Mr.  Carey,      Since  this  final  start  from  the  low- 
lands of  Lob,  nothing  has  been  heard  of  the  gallant  explorer,  but  it  is 
presumed  that  after  spending  the  summer  and  early  autumn  in  travel- 
ling over  the  elevated  region,  and  among  the  lakes  of  ([^hangtiiu,  he  has 
returned  to  Turtistan  for  tho  winter.     If  this  should  have  been  the 
case,  Mr.  Carey's  return  to  Ladak  and  India  may  be  looked  for  late  in 
the  comiug  spring,  though  news  of  his  whereabouta  and  the  safety  o 
his  party  may  perhaps  arrive  before  that  time.     It  may  be  noticed  that 
Mr.  Carey  speaks  everj'whcre,  in  his  correspondence,  of  the  good  trea 
ment  he  received  from  tho  inhabitants  of  the  countries  visited.     The 
nomad   tribes  of  Northern    Tibet  and    the  Mussulman   inhabitants  of 
Turkistan   showed   bim   nothing  but  civility,  while   all   the   Chines© 
officials  acted  loyally  up  to  the  terms  of  the  passport  with  which  Mr. 
Carey  had  been  provided  by  the  Peking  Government  befc^re  he  set  out 
from  India.     Mr.  Carey  has  no  escort,  or  armed  following  of  any  kind, 
and  it  is  worthy  of  remark  that  be  has  been  able  to  make  his  way  (up 
to  May  1886,  at  any  rate)  quietly  and  unmolested  among  people  with 
whom  the  Russian  explorer  came  into  collision,  and  with  mandarins  of 
whom  he  has  complained  so  bitterly  since  his  return  to  Eussia.     The 
f?tory  Mn  Carey  will  bave  to  tell  on  bis  return  cannot  fail  to  be  of 
importance,   and   may  be   looked   forward   to  with   great  interest  by 
geographers. 


u 


n 


I 


(    177    ) 

A  Journey  from  Blantyre  to  AngonUland  and  back. 

By  J,  T.  Last,  Commander  of  the  Society's  EspeditioE  to  tlxe 
Namali  Hills,  East  Central  Africa. 

Map,  p.  212. 

fs  M&y  last  (1886),  being  retaitied  at  Blaatyre,  wailing  for  the  favourable  season  to 
start  for  the  Namuli  Hills,  I  made  a  journey,  in  com|iaoy  with  Ci>ii8ul  HAWta,  to 
the  Augooi  country,  oq  the  highlantls  to  the  south-west  of  Lake  Nyaasa.  I  now 
submit  to  tha  Society  the  following  account  of  this  expeditiou : — 

The  course  of  the  journey  waa  from  Blantyre  to  Zomba,  thenco  by  way  of 
HaletnyaX  on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Sbirwa,  to  the  river  Shire,  on  to  Mpooda'a  at 
the  south  end  of  Lake  Nyassa,  up  the  eaet  «ide  of  the  promontory  jutting  into  the 
8DUth  end  of  Nyatisa  to  Liviagstonia,  From  LiviiigstoDia  we  traversed  the  west 
side  of  the  promontory,  and  then  travelling  west  wo  weut  vii  Mount  Chirobwe  to 
Chikusi's  in  Angoui-latid.  On  leaving  Angoai-knd,  we  travelled  E.S,E1.,  striking 
the  river  Shiri5  at  a  village  called  Mpimbi.  Here  we  passed  over  and  went  oa  to 
2omba,  returning  to  Blantyre  from  Zomba  by  the  way  wo  had  come. 

We  started  oa  May  3rd  from  Dlantjre.  Our  way  took  us  past  the  Scotch 
MisaoD  Station  at  Blantyre»  and  then,  after  leavinj;  the  small  bill  of  Nyambadwo 
on  our  left,  we  went  round  the  western  spurs  of  Ndilandi  Hill,  and  down  to  the  river 
Lunzu*  The  bed  of  this  river  is  some  20  feet  wide,  and  its  banks  10  feet  high ; 
during  the  dry  season  there  in  but  little  water  bere,  but  th«5  dried  grass  and  debris  on 
the  trees  on  its  banks  show  that  during  the  rains  there  ia  frequently  a  rush  of  water 
10  or  12  feet  deep.  The  Lunzu  riaes  about  Banf!;we  and  the  adjacent  bUls,  some 
eight  miles  to  the  east  of  Blantyre,  and  eniptiea  itself  into  the  river  SHr^,  south  of 
the  African  Lakes  Company *s  trading  fitation  at  Matojie.  We  crossed  to  the  right 
lAuk  of  the  Lunzu  at  6  p.m.,  and  cami>ed  on  the  rifiing  ground  close  by.  The  next 
morning  we  staj-ted  at  7  a.m.,  and  in  the  evening  reached  the  river  Mnamazi.  Hero 
we  found  the  camp  of  the  Portuguese  traveller,  Lieut.  Cardozo,  stsll  standing.  This 
our  men  were  glad  to  make  use  of.  During  the  day  we  crossed  several  rivers  and 
streams,  of  which  the  Chipandi  is  the  chief.  T\m  river,  which  is  somewhat  larger 
than  the  Lunzu,  rises  on  the  west  side  of  Mount  KilndKuIu,  aud  rushes  west  betweca 
rocky  defiles  into  the  Shir<g,  a  short  distance  south  of  Matot>e.  Several  long  pieces 
of  bog  and  marah  had  to  be  crossed  during  the  day,  Tlie  inarsby  surface  was  hid 
by  a  coarse  grass,  about  18  inches  high,  which  grows  in  the  water,  but  the  jkaUia 
were  only  loo  distinguishable  by  the  long  line  of  black  mud  and  slime.  On  leaving 
the  Mnamazi  the  next  morning,  we  passed  over  geutly  undulating  ground  covered 
with  long  grass,  from  five  to  eight  or  more  feet  high,  which  renders  travelling  very 
anpleasaat,  both  on  account  of  the  heavy  dew  with  which  the  grass  is  surcharged 
during  the  early  morning,  and  aUo  from  the  stiHiog  atmoepbere  during  the  greater 
heat  of  the  day.  We  crossed  a  number  of  marshes  and  small  rivers  on  the  way,  of 
which  the  Likangala  is  the  princi|ml.  This  rises  in  some  hills  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Sbir^,  passes  along  the  foot  of  Zomba,  and  enters  Lake  Shirwa,  It  h  the  largest 
river  between  Blantyre  and  Zornba,  having  a  bed  50  feet  or  more  wide.  It  rises  and 
falls  in  the  wet  season  after  the  manner  of  the  Lunzu  and  other  rivers.  At  2  f.m. 
we  reached  the  site  of  the  Britbh  Consulate,  which  stands  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
river  Mluaguzi.  The  Consulate  is  being  built  by  Messrs.  Buchanan  Bros,  on  one  of 
the  spurs  which  jut  out  from  the  south  side  of  Mount  Zomba.  The  Mlunguzi  river, 
which  rises  on  the  top  of  Zomba,  and  aepanites  the  Consular  estate  fri.>m  that  of 
Meure.  Buchanan,  rushes  down  over  rocks  aad  boulders,  forming  pretty  cascades 


ij 


178 


A  JOURNEY  FROM  BLANTITRE 


and  waterfalls  with  its  bright  sparkling  waters,  and  thence  goes  on  ta  Join  the 
LikaDgala.  ^H 

Mount  Zomba,  which  is  nearly  5000  feet  ahove  sea-level,  has  extensive  spumw 
from  300  to  fiOO  feet  high  jutting  out  from  its  sides.  These  are  all  fertile,  well 
watered,  and  iipparently  very  healthy.  They  are  but  sparsely  mliahited  at  present, 
but  this  is  prolmbly  owing  to  the  continual  feuds  tho  natives  liave  amongst  thera- 
sehxft,  and  the  extensive  raids  which  have  of  late  years  been  made  by  the  Maugoni 
tribe*  I  think  the  spurs  round  Zomba  are  more  healthy  tlian  Blantj^re  or  any 
district  for  a  great  distance.  The  district  about  the  south  of  Zomba  proves  to  bo 
very  fertile,  by  the  fine  crop  of  coffee  which  ilessrs.  Buchanan  have  on  their  planta* 
tions  this  year.  Sugar-cane  grows  equally  well.  Tea,  cocoji,  cinchona,  arrowroot, 
and  other  products  are  being  tried,  and  they  promise  to  do  well. 

Whilst  detained  at  Zomba  I  made  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  twice,  and  ascer- 
tained its  height  by  boiling-point  tberraometer.  The  top  of  the  mountain  is  an 
undulating  Hat,  covered  with  grass  about  two  feet  high,  and  having  here  and  there 
OToaU  ]mtches  of  thick  forest*  The  most  mteresting  plants,  to  me,  were  heaths, 
ferns,  and  ground-orchids.  Of  the  ferns,  some  of  which  are  arboreal,  and  orehids, 
there  are  several  varieties. 

On  Monday,  May  17th,  shortly  after  noon,  we  started  for  thevill^e  of  Kumjali, 
where  Malemya,  a  chief  of  considerable  influence,  resides,  on  the  spurs  at  the  north* 
east  of  Hount  Zomba*  We  reached  our  destination  about  7.30  p.m.  Near  to 
Maiemya's  is  a  small  missionary  station,  an  offj^boot  of  the  Scotch  Church  Mission 
at  Blantyre,  under  the  charge  of  a  nativo  teacher  named  "  Bismarck,"  This  man 
kindly  invited  us  into  his  house  while  we  were  waiting  for  the  caravan  to  oome  up, 
and  w^e  remained  talking  for  about  an  hour,  during  which  he  showed  himself  to  be 
a  very  intelligent  man,  as  also  on  the  following  day,  by  his  manner  and  conversation 
with  tho  chief  Malemya,  which  took  place  in  our  presence. 

As  soon  RS  we  reached  Malemya's  the  chief  invited  us  to  camp  in  the  inclosnre 
at  the  back  of  his  house.  He  was  very  noisy,  being  somewhat  under  the  effects  of 
native  beer;  still  ho  wished  to  make  us  as  comfortable  aa  ix>ssible.  He  has  a 
number  of  villsgea  scattered  about  on  the  eastern  spurs  of  Mounts  Zomba  and 
Malosa,  from  which  one  may  look  over  the  whole  of  Lake  Shirwa  and  the  north- 
west side  of  the  jMilanji  mountains.  The  next  morning  the  chief  was  sober,  and 
came  early  to  pay  his  respects  to  the  Consul  ;  he  then  made  himself  very  agreeable, 
and  through  his  influence  the  men  were  able  to  get  plenty  of  food.  He  also 
promised  to  do  all  in  his  power  to  help  the  caravan  on. 

On  the  19th  we  started  again,  Malemya  having  given  some  men  to  carry  fiome 
extra  loads  belonging  to  the  Consul.  These  men  were  ordered  to  take  us  on  to  the 
river  Shir^  and  then  return.  Our  path  took  us  over  the  uiiduiating  spurs  of  the 
east  side  of  Malosa  HilL  We  reached  Machinjila's  village  after  an  hour  and  a 
halt's  walk,  and  stayed  there  to  lunch.  In  the  distance  to  the  north  were  the 
districts  under  the  two  chiefs  Che  Mchamba  and  Che  Kawinga,  the  former  at  the 
foot  of  Hount  Chikala  on  the  south  side,  and  Kawinga  on  the  s]>nrs  extending  from 
the  north  side  of  the  .same.  The  Consul  was  very  desirous  of  visiting  these  chiefs, 
but  as  there  had  lately  been  fighting  between  the  people  at  Slack inji la's  and  those 
of  Che  Mchamba  the  men  from  Malemya  would  not  go.  From  Machinjila's  we 
went  on  over  the  same  kind  of  undulating  ground  till  we  reached  the  villages  of 
Mpasu,  a  relation  of  Malemya's,  Here  we  found  plenty  of  food,  flour,  potatoes, 
bananas,  fowls,  with  other  common  products  of  the  country. 

We  went  on  next  day  to  the  villager  of  Mangnlu,  on  Kumbanga  HilL  The 
conntry  is  of  the  same  nndulating  character  as  that  hitherto  traversed.  Several 
rivers  and  streams  were  crossed  on  the  way,  of  which  tho  most  important  were  the 


TO  ANGOXI-LA^D  AKD  BACK. 


170 


Jjif^ai,  NjambADyka,  Likwenl,  and  tbo  Mbelezi.  There  are  no  people  betwoen 
Mpam*a  and  Mongulu'a,  the  people  who  formerly  inhabited  the  country  liaviog  boen 
removed  by  the  Mangoni.  Mflngulu's  Tillage  is  built  in  a  very  peculiar  ptjsition. 
The  north-east  end  of  Kambanga  Hill  is  covered  with  huge  bonlders  and  rocks, 
having  spaces  between  them  which  are  lUUised  by  the  natives  as  sites  for  their 
bottset;  Beldom  more  than  live  or  mx  houses  can  be  seen  from  one  point  of  view, 
thoagh  ^ihere  are  a  good  number.  In  the  evening  the  chief  came  to  the  Consults 
tent^  and  we  had  a  long  talk  together. 

In  the  morning  we  desired  to  start  ^rly  for  the  river  Bhire,  but  the  men  from 
Malemya'S  refosed  to  go  any  farther,  saying  that  Malemya  had  told  them  not  to  go 
any  farther  than  Mangulu's  village.  This  we  knew  was  contrary  to  what  Malemya 
had  told  U5,  and  as  they  persisted  in  saying  that  they  would  not  go  on,  they  were 
lold  that  they  would  be  {mid,  according  to  their  agreement,  on  the  bank  of  the 
river  Shir^,  and  not  before.  They,  however^  refused  to  go  on,  and  other  men  had 
to  be  hired  from  Mangulu* 

We  managed  to  get  away  at  8  a.m.  The  road  ky  over  rough  barren  ground 
for  Bome  six  miles,  till  we  again  approached  somewhat  near  the  Likweni  river. 
Onward  from  thb  place  the  ground  was  level,  and  covered  vrith  long  gras*.  The 
country  abounds  with  game— elephants,  buffaloes,  and  various  kinds  of  antelopes. 
These  were  known  to  be  in  the  district  by  the  many  tracks  and  marks  about ;  we 
did  not  see  any,  however,  it  being  about  the  time  such  animals  go  to  water,  which 
was  several  miles  to  the  south-west  At  5  p.m.  we  reached  a  small  lake  near  a 
clump  of  trees,  and  camped  for  the  night. 

The  country  is  very  flat  on  to  the  banks  of  the  Shire,  Here  w©  met  with  some 
large  euphorbias,  and  also  the  big  awkward-looking  baobab  (Adansonia),  Treeejaro 
in  patches,  with  intervals  of  grass.  In  other  places  there  are  trees  very  much^Uke 
elms  in  ap[)earaDC^  standing  scattered  about.  They  grow  from  60  to  70  feet  high, 
with  good  straight  trunks  from  one  to  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  would  make'good 
timber  for  building  purposes. 

On  Saturday,  May  22nd,  we  reached  the  river  Shire  about  noon.  There  is  a  long 
stretch  of  low-lying  ground  all  along  the  left  bank  some  li  mile  wide.  This  in 
the  close  vicinity  of  the  river  must  make  the  country  unhealthy  at  all  times  of  the 
year.  The  chief  of  the  place  was  Cbe  Liwonde.  At  Mangulu's  village  we  were  told 
that  Li  woo  do  had  died  a  few  days  previously^  but  was  not  yet  buried.  The  custom 
here  is  to  keep  the  dead  for  some  days  after  death,  the  idea  being  that  if  the  bodies 
aiie  kept  till  they  are  well  advanced  in  decomfxisition^  the  so-called  wizards  are  not 
10  likely  to  dig  them  up  and  eat  them.  There  is  a  strong  belief  amongst  these 
people  that  wizards  eat  the  dead  as  opp:)rtunity  occurs,  and  by  that  means  get  a 
supernatural  power  over  their  fellow-creatures.  As  we  arrived  at  the  river  we  heard 
the  beating  of  drums  and  people  singing.  Soon  afterwards  three  canoes  came  in 
sight  filled  mth  people.  The  home  of  Liwonde  was  on  an  island  in  the  river,  and 
men  were  bringing  his  body  thence,  in  order  to  bury  it  on  the  mainhind.  On 
binding,  a  sort  of  procession  was  formed,  two  or  three  men  in  front  carrying  beer 
and  flour,  then  the  body,  which  had  been  bound  up  in  a  kind  of  mat  made  from  the 
stalks  of  the  long  matete  grass,  and  suspendwl  horizontally  to  a  pole,  was  brought 
on  by  two  men.  After  these  came  a  number  of  men  and  women  bearing  beer  and 
other  things,  aomo  had  small  drums  and  rattles,  which  they  were  beating  and  shaking, 
and  others  were  singing  the  funeral  dir^o.  The  stench  arising  from  the  body  as  it 
was  carried  past  showed  that  we  had  not  been  wrongly  informed  as  to  the  time  the 
natives  keep  their  dead  before  burial. 

Soon  after  we  appeared  on  the  left  bank  of  the  ShM,  people  living  on  the  right 
bank  saw  us  and  came  over  in  their  canoes.    Among  them  was  Litete,  the  head-man 


180 


A  JOURNEY  FROM  0LANTYRE 


of  the  village,  with  wliom  an  armDgi^ment  was  made  to  take  as  over,  Tbiii  be  did 
for  eight  yards  of  bluo  calico  and  four  yards  of  white.  We  were  quickly  ferried 
across,  and  soon  had  our  tents  pitched  in  the  inclosure  of  one  of  the  houses  of  the 
head-man.  There  is  a  marked  difiference  between  the  ri^^ht  and  left  banks  of  the 
river.  The  left  is  quite  uninhabited^  and  very  unhealthy.  The  ri^ht  bank  is  fairly 
healthy,  well-peopled  and  very  fertile — hr^^e  quantities  of  good  rice  are  grown,  and 
an  abundance  of  Indian  corn,  millet  of  three  kinds,  a  variety  of  beans^  and  other 
legnmiDOUs  plants ;  pumpkins,  potatoes,  and  cassava  are  alao  cultivated.  Moat  of  the 
natives  have  patches  of  tobacco,  and  some  Indalge  in  Indian  liemp.  Fowls  are 
abundant  and  cheap;  but  goats  and  sheep  scarce.  Only  bush-buck  and  other  small 
antelopes  are  found  in  the  vicinity^  The  people  in  all  these  districts  are  Nyassas 
and  Yaos  (Ajawas),  Between  this  place  and  Livingstouia  mauy  of  the  natives  arc 
in  the  habit  of  going  down  !o  QuiUimane,  or  to  the  more  northern  coast  towns  of 
Ktlwa  and  Lindi,  so  that  several  can  speak  Swahili^  and  understand  coast  customs. 

From  Litete's  we  went  on  to  Che  Mlelemba's  village,  od  the  way  crossing  the 
rivers  Mnangona  and  Mkasi.  The  cliief  here  lias  been  to  the  coast  several  times  to 
barter  Lis  goods  and  briug  up  coast  stuff.  Our  visit  gave  him  an  opportunity  of 
showing  off  his  knowledge  of  the  coaat  language  and  customs,  which  he  did  not  fail 
to  make  use  of.  He  was  very  anxious  that  1  should  come  and  live  with  him  at  his 
new  village,  whicli  he  is  building  in  a  group  of  hills  some  ten  miles  away  to  the 
west.  The  country  her©  is  very  fertile,  immense  fields  of  millet  are  growo,  and 
Indian  corn  is  planted  all  the  year  ronud.  | 

The  next  day  we  went  on  to  Mwasama*s,  passing  through  Che  rita*8  district  at 
midday.  During  the  day  we  passed  several  large  villages  belonging  to  the  Nyassa 
tribe.  Mponda,  who  is  the  head  chief  or  Sultau  of  all  these  districts  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Shire,  has  made  some  tei-ms  of  friendship  with  Chikusi,  the  Manguni 
king,  and  now  his  people  live  in  peace  and  safety.  The  path  lay  through  the  same 
fertile  kind  of  country  all  the  next  day.  In  the  afternoon  we  crossed  the  Nasenga 
river  and  camped  in  the  forest  some  distance  farther  on.  Thence  a  messenger  was 
sent  on  to  the  Sultan  Mponda,  to  obtain  his  permisalon  to  visit  him.  Near  the  spot 
where  we  camped  there  had  lately  stood  a  lai^  village^  but  the  chief  of  it,  refusing 
to  obey  some  command  of  MpondaV,  was  attacked  by  his  order,  killed,  his  village 
destroyed,  and  bis  people  scattered.  The  mej-senger  returned  the  next  morning  with 
favourable  answers,  and  we  moved  on.  We  could  not  but  notice  the  barren  appear- 
ance of  the  fiat  district  In  which  Mponda  lives.  The  soil  consists  chiefly  of  dry- 
washed  sand,  which  has  probably  been  drifted  up  at  some  time.  It  seems  that  large 
portions  of  the  country,  forming  tho  east  side  of  the  promontory,  were  formerly 
covered  with  water,  the  hills  and  rocks  then  fonning  little  islands.  Since  then, 
drift  sand,  or  sand  and  mud,  has  filled  the  spaces  between  tho  hills.  This  is  indi- 
cated both  by  the  surface  of  the  flats  and  also  by  breaks  in  the  ground,  wliich  ahows 
that  it  is  simply  made  up  ground.  When  there  is  simply  saod  on  the  surface  little 
else  but  grass  will  grow  ;  hut  with  a  mixture  of  sand  and  mud,  the  ground  is  very 
fertile. 

The  next  morning  we  went  on  to  Mponda*s,  On  reaching  the  town  we  were 
conducted  to  one  of  the  chiefs  houses,  where  wo  remained  for  about  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  and  then  proceeded  to  the  houses  which  he  had  placed  at  our  disposal.  About 
two  hours  afterwards  Mponda  came,  bringing  a  line  goat  and  two  baskets  of  rice  as  a 
present.  The  Sultan  remained  talking  for  about  two  hours,  and  then  retired  with 
the  present  the  Consul  had  given  him,  Tho  present  Mponda  is  a  young  man  who 
has  only  lately  succeeded  to  the  sultansbip.  The  custom  is  that  when  a  sultan  or 
chief  dies,  his  sodb  cannot  Inherit,  but  the  sultanas  brother  or  brother^s  sons.  The 
present  Mpondft  is  &  younger  brother  of  the  bte  sultan.    A  great  difficulty  against 


TO  ANGOHI-LAND  AKD  BACK. 


181 


I 


t  son  inberiting  is  the  custom  that  on  tbe  death  of  a  aultaa  or  cMef^  a!l  his  wires 
and  women  become  the  projierty  of  tiie  penstm  succeeding. 

There  is  now  a  general  feeling  among  the  sons  of  great  chiefs  in  these  territories 
Aat  they  ought  to  succeed  to  the  pc)8ition  and  property  of  their  fathers^  The  two 
WDB  of  the  late  Mponda,  who  hve  in  the  great  town  of  their  father,  are  much  d\s- 
eonteDted  with  their  positiooj  and  are  intriguing  to  turn  out  tbe  present  ]l(l[X)niia, 
Ah»  at  the  great  chief  Makaujila's,  on  the  south-east  shore  of  Lake  Nyassa,  the  same 
feeling  ia  shown.  The  son  of  Makanjila  is  at  war  with  his  father,  because  the  latter 
will  not  consent  to  make  him  his  heir.  All  the  chief  young  men  are  well  acquainted 
with  the  coast  towards  Zanzibar^  and  have  become  Mahommedans,  They  are  sur- 
rounded  by  a  number  of  Warima,  or  Coast-inea,  who  exert  great  influence  over 
(hem.  It  is  probably  owint;  to  the  increased  knowledge  they  have  gained  by  their 
journeys  to  the  coast,  and  also  the  influence  of  the  coast-men  who  live  with  them, 
that  thete  young  chiefs  ai-e  desirous  of  altering  the  present  ciibtoms  of  tlieir  country. 

On  the  evening  of  tbe  day  of  our  arrival  at  MfxiutlaV,  the  African  LaktfS  Com- 
j)any'«  steamer  i/a/a  came  in,  bringing  down  from  the  north  end  of  NyiiHsa  Mr, 
Nicoiland  Mr.  Stephenmju,  employes  of  the  company,  Tliey,  with  Mr,  Morrison, 
who  is  iu  charge  of  the  stetimer,  e^me  ashore,  and  we  spent  a  pleasant  evening 
togietber.  In  the  morning  they  were  off  again  on  their  way  to  Matope,  the  com- 
pft&y*s  station  at  tbe  up|>er  end  of  the  FalU  on  the  river  Shire, 

We  remained  at  Mpooda's  the  following  day»  and  on  the  next.  May  29th,  resumed 
our  journey.  Oar  way  led  through  the  large  town  where  the  former  Mponda  had 
lived.  Here  we  were  met  by  his  two  sons,  who  were  very  anxious  that  we  should 
slay  the  night  with  them.,  but  time  would  not  allow  ns  to  do  so,  Tbe  grave  of  the 
late  Mponda  is  built  just  in  front  of  the  house  where  he  resided.  It  is  tbe  largest 
bailding  of  the  kind  I  have  seen  in  all  East  Africa.  Its  large  size  is  chiefly  owing 
to  coast  influence— but  the  style  and  custom  are  purely  native.  The  building  is 
about  40  feet  long  by  30  wide,  with  a  verandah  5  feet  wide  all  round.  The  roof, 
tbe  ridge  of  which  is  some  25  feet  from  iho  ground,  is  thatched  with  graH««,  the  thatch 
being  covered  all  over  with  white  calico  from  the  ridge  to  the  eaves.  Tbe  building 
stands  nearly  east  and  west,  with  the  door  at  the  east  end^  The  roof  inside  is  of 
bamboo,  and  hung  with  numberless  pendants  of  white  calico,  about  1  foot  long  and 
1  inch  broad.  The  position  of  the  grave  shows  the  coast  influence  exercised  at  the 
burial.  The  grave  was  dug  nearly  north  and  soutb^  looking  towards  Mecca,  and  w  hen 
tbe  body  was  buried,  it  was  placed  with  its  head  towards  the  north.  I  was  told  that  the 
burial  was  jjerformed  with  tbe  customary  Mahommedan  rites.  Over  the  grave  a  tomb 
has  been  erected  on  a  raised  platform  ur  dais,  which  is  ascended  by  two  steps.  Tbe 
tomb  is  fonned  by  a  turreted  wall  about  four  feet  high,  which  surrounds  the  grave. 
The  square  enclosed  by  this  wall  is  left  o|x;n  at  the  top,  and  inside  is  a  mound 
raised  like  that  of  an  ordinary  grave.  On  either  side  of  the  tomb  outside  there  is  a 
large  square  boic,  said  to  contain  rupees,  the  oll'erings  of  people  who  have  come  to 
pay  their  respects  to  the  dead  The  wall  of  the  tomb  facing  the  door  is  inlaid  with 
round  earthenware  plates,  basins,  looking-glasses,  ii  copper  plate,  and  other  things  of 
European  make,  and  hung  with  numerous  strings  of  heads,  the  offerings  of  friends 
and  yiaitora.  In  front  of  tliis  wall  a  rail  is  put  up,  about  six  feet  from  the  ground, 
from  which  are  suspended  a  number  of  good  Muscat  cloths,  and  some  coloured  cloths 
of  European  manufacture.  These  form  a  screen  to  the  tomb,  and  are  always  kept 
down  except  when  people  come  to  visit  the  grave.  The  door  is  always  kept  locked, 
and  a  man  is  appointed,  whose  sole  duty  is  to  keep  charge  of  the  place. 

After  a  small  present  hod  been  made  to  the  two  sons  of  the  late  Mponda  we 
moved  on,  and  passing  the  villages  of  Kumlonxl)a  on  the  way,  reached  Malunga*s  in 
the  evening.    The  country  passed  over  was  low  and  sandy,  with  numerous  patches 


182 


A  JOURNEY  KROM  BLANT^RE 


I 


covered  with  salt.  These  patches  are  covered  with  water  during  the  wet  seosoii, 
and,  as  the  water  is  evaporattd,  tlio  aalt  deposit  is  left*  We  saw  several  parties  of  J 
womea  engaged  ia  gathering  up  the  salt,  which  they  mix  with  water,  and  strain  ;  it  I 
is  then  evaporated  by  hoiling,  aft^r  which  it  is  ready  for  the  market,  A  larg^l 
qoautity  of  salt  iij.thus  colkcted  about  Mponda*8  district,  and  it  fioda  a  ready  markell 
with  the  Yao3  to  the  south,  and  among  tlie  Mangoui  to  the  west-  At  Malunga*i| 
we  were  told  that  hippopotami  were  plentiful ;  they  must  have  been  very  shy,  for  ^ 
we  only  saw  one  at  a  distance.  In  an  endeavour  to  shoot  it  we  were  not  successful. 
We  had  heard  much  talk  about  thesa  animals  in  the  rivor  Shire,  They  must  be  few 
in  number,  however,  for  we  did  not  see  more  than  half  a  dozen  all  the  way  up  the 
Shire,  and  along  the  shores  of  the  lake. 

From  Malunga*3  we  went  on  the  next  day  past  the  villages  of  Ngnmbi,  Mako- 
l>o]a,  and  Chipoka,  to  the  village  of  Abdulk.  We  camped  outside  the  village,  at 
which  the  chiefl  was  rather  surprised,  the  general  practice  being  for  travellers  to 
camp  inside.  AbduUa^s  village  is  strongly  situated  on  a  neck  of  land  on  the  lake 
ooast^  BTirrounded  ,by  hills.  At  the  foot  of  one  of  these  hills  is  a  little  lake  of  salt 
water,  in  which  there  is  a  variety  of  fiKh. 

From  AbduHa's  we  made  a  loug  journey,  and  at  night  reached  the  broken-down 
village  of  Pampamba,  of  which  the  chief  is  naraerl  Kiznra.  The  country  we 
passed  through  varies  considerably ;  some  of  it  is  most  fertile,  while  other  parts  are 
simply  clean  sand,  and  useless  for  gardens.  In  other  places  there  are  large  swamps, 
shut  off  from  the  lake  by  low  banks,  ufion  which  some  of  the  natives  have  built 
their  sraaU  villages.  The  chief  of  these  are  MIela  and  Walo.  Beyond  these  villages 
we  passed  over  the  Ngnai  Hills,  and  came  to  a  deaerted  village.  There  we  had  to 
retrace  our  steps  for  a  short  distance,  till  we  entered  a  broken  track,  which  took  us 
sometimes  along  the  shore,  sometimes  over  mgjijed  rocks,  and  ultimately  brought  us 
to  Kizura's  village,  at  which  we  arrived  about  6.30  p.m*  This  is  a  most  desolate, 
broken-down,  and  unhealthy  place,  and  v;e  were  glad  to  be  oi9f  again  the  next 
morning.  On  leaving,  we  went  for  some  distance  along  a  scrubby  forest,  and  then 
came  upon  the  shore  of  the  lieautiful  bay  of  Mazinzi,  where  we  stopped  for  break- 
fast. At  11,30  we  reached  another  beautiful  bay,  called  Lusumbwe.  This  bay  is 
about  half  a  mile  in  width,  and  a  mile  in  length.  The  sides  of  the  bay  are  formed  _^ 
by  the  hills  Sanu  and  Dim  we  on  the  right,  and  Punzi  and  Tumbwe  on  the  LefL^f 
These  two  rows  of  hills  are  parallel  to  each  other,  and  a  strip  of  low  bank  at  right 
angles  to  these  forms  the  bead  of  tho  bay.  There  is  a  good-sized  village  just  over 
this  bank,  the  inhabitants  of  which  paas  a  good  deal  of  their  time  in  catching  fish  in 
tlie  bay,  where  they  are  plentiful  and  in  great  variety,  A  large  seine  or  net  is  taken 
to  the  mouth  of  I  ho  bay  in  caaoes,  where  it  is  dropped  into  the  water,  and  stretched 
from  side  to  aide.  Rops  ata  attached  to  each  end  of  the  net,  and  the  men  with 
these  draw  tlie  net  to  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  land  the  £sh.  We  stayed  at  this 
place  for  about  two  hours,  and  left  at  2  p.m.,  thinking  we  had  ample  time  to  reach 
Livingatonia  before  dark.  We  had  to  cross  over  a  high  pass  in  the  Kuognni  Hills, 
and  night  came  on  before  we  were  at  the  foot  on  the  other  side,  so  when  we  arrived 
at  the  gardens  we  had  to  camp,  and  go  on  the  next  morning.  We  reached  Living- 
ston ia  in  less  than  an  hour's  march  from  the  last  camping  place,  on  June  2nd. 

The  mismon  station  of  Livingston  ia  is  built  on  the  shores  of  a  little  bay  at  the 
foot  of  the  Kunguni  Hills,  An  elevated  bank  of  shingle  and  sand  ia  thrown  up 
all  along  the  shore  of  the  bay,  and  inside  this  bank  is  a  low  Eat,  extending  up 
to  the  hill-side.  Many  parts  of  this  flat  are  lower  than  the  lake  level,  and  con- 
sequently very  damp  and  unhealthy.  In  the  rains  all  this  must  be  an  extensive 
swamp,  as  is  shown  by  the  elevated  roadway  which  the  missionaries  have  had  to 
make  in  order  to  get  over  it  at  that  season  of  the  year.     At  first  sight  the  place 


TO  ANGONI-LAND  AND  BACK.  188 

has  the  appearance  of  being  unhealthy  and  unsuited  as  a  mission  station,  and  for 
the  fiist  two  days  of  the  time  we  were  obliged  to  stay  here  the  excessive  humidity 
of  the  place  made  both  the  Consul  and  myself  quite  ill,  and  incapable  of  doing  any- 
thing. The  missionaries  have  lately  retired  from  the  place  on  account  of  its  un- 
healthiness  and  gone  to  Bandawe,  a  place  more  north  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake. 
A  number  of  good  houses  have  been  built  here,  but  they  are  now  rapidly  falling 
into  decay.  At  present  a  young  native  named  Albert  has  charge  of  the  scholastic 
and  religious  work  of  the  station.  Teaching  in  reading,  writing,  and  arithmetic  is 
carried  on  every  morning  for  about  two  hours,  and  on  Sandays  a  religious  service  is 
conducted  by  the  schoolmaster  Albert,  at  which,  it  is  said,  all  the  people  of  the 
place  attend.  The  station  itself  is  in  charge  of  a  man  named  Mlolo,  who  acts  as 
chief  of  the  district.  The  people  living  at  or  near  the  station  are  Nyassas  and  Yaos. 
The  Yaos  were  brought  here  by  the  missionaries,  and  the  Nyassas  have  come  to 
live  near  the  station,  feeling  that  they  get  some  kind  of  protection  by  living  near 
the  Europeans.  They  still  retain  their  old  superstitious  customs.  Only  a  short 
time  ago  a  woman  accused  two  men  of  being  wizards,  stating  that  she  had  seen  them 
take  the  body  of  a  child,  who  had  lately  died,  into  a  house,  and  that  there  they  had 
eaten  it  On  the  charge  being  made  the  men  protested  their  innocence,  but  to  no 
aTail;  they  had  to  submit  to  the  ordeal  of  mwavi-drinking.  The  mwavi  is  a 
mixtara  made  from  certain  plants,  which  varies  in  its  action,  probably  from  the 
manner  in  which  it  is  prepared.  If  the  person  who  is  made  to  drink  it  is  sick  and 
recovers,  it  is  taken  as  a  proof  that  he  is  innocent,  but  if  he  dies  he  must  have  been 
guilty  according  to  native  ideas.  The  men  above  mentioned  were  made  to  drink 
the  mwavi,  and  both  died.  Some  short  time  afterwards  the  IlaUi  steamer  of  the 
African  Lakes  Company  came  down  and  anchored  off  the  station.  On  hearing  of 
the  affair  the  Europeans  on  board  protested  against  the  use  of  mwavi,  and  after 
some  persuasion  induced  the  people  to  dig  open  the  grave  to  see  whether  the  body 
was  really  buried  or  not.  They  did  this,  feeling  sure  that  the  body  had  not  been 
eaten,  and  hoping  thereby  to  convince  the  natives  that  the  use  of  mwavi  was  entirely 
wrong,  and  not  a  test  in  any  way  of  a  person^s  guilt  or  innocence.  The  grave  was 
dug  open,  and  at  a  depth  of  12  feet  the  child's  body  was  there  found.  Many  of  the 
people  were  astonished,  and  admitted  that  in  this  case  the  mwavi  had  fuled.  But 
it  did  not  convince  the  people  that  though  the  mwavi  had  failed  in  this  case  that 
it  was  a  wrong  thing  to  use,  or  that  it  would  fail  in  other  oases.  The  old  chief 
Mlolo  told  me  that  though  the  Yaos  and  those  connected  with  the  mission  were 
obliged  to  give  up  such  customs,  still  the  Nyassas  who  lived  near  would  not  think 
of  doing  10.  It  is  hardly  to  be  expected  that  natives  will  give  up  such  customs 
quickly.  If  the  practice  was  simply  for  the  purpose  of  determining  the  guilt  or 
innocence  of  a  person,  then  it  might  easily  be  given  up ;  but  as  it  is  one  of  the 
safest  and  most  powerful  means  the  natives  have  of  removing  obnoxious  persons,  it 
is  not  to  be  expected  that  it  will  be  quickly  abolished. 

On  June  4th  we  left  Livingstonia  at  4  p.m.,  and  proceeded  south  over  a  spur  of 
the  Kunguni  Hills  along  the  west  shore  of  the  promontory.  At  5. SO  we  reached 
the  Tillage  of  Mpamba,  and  camped  for  the  night.  The  village  consists  of  a  string 
of  huts  built  along  the  coast-line  at  the  foot  of.  the  hilL  Nearly  all  the  people  were 
away  in  their  gardens  driving  away  the  monkeys  which  live  in  the  hills.  The 
damage  they  do  to  the  garden  crops  is  very  great,  and  this  the  natives  here  feel  all 
the  more  because  they  have  only  the  rocky  sides  of  the  hill  where  they  can  grow 
anything. 

The  next  morning  we  went  on  past  the  villages  of  Mpangu,  Nyamkumba, 
Ifiamngsmo,  Mpande,  and  the  border  village  of  Mbapi  at  2  p.m.  At  Mamngano's 
we  foond  a  blacksmith  busy  forging  hatchets.    These  are. made  from  iron  picked  up 


184 


A  JOURNEY  FROM  BLJLNTYRE 


in  the  swainps  and  bogs  of  the  district.  The  iroQ  was  apparently  of  a  poor  quality, 
being  very  scaly.  There  was  one  hat-chet  which  the  smith  seemed  to  value,  the 
iron  of  which  cauie  from  the  hill&  on  the  west  side  uf  the  lake.  The  smith's  anvil 
was  a  great  stoDe,  for  a  sledge-hammer  he  naed  a  large  stooe,  and  for  finishing  his 
work  he  has  amall  hammers,  probably  of  his  own  make.  With  the&e  rough  too!s 
he  turns  out  hatchets,  axes,  arrow  and  spefir  heads,  hoes,  and  other  implements  of 
such  good  quality  and  finiish,  that  a  European  smith  would  hardly  believe  that  the 
work  was  accomplished  with  such  tools.  Moat  of  the  country  from  Marungano's  is 
very  fertile,  covered  with  fine  crops  of  Indian  corn  and  millet.  Between  Mpande** 
and  Mbapi's  wo  crossed  the  dry  bed  of  the  river  Lusangadzi.  This  is  a  considerable 
river  in  the  wet  seastJO,  Its  bed  being  some  30  yards  wide  with  banks  12  feet  high* 
The  marks  on  the  banks  show  that  the  river  is  full  during  the  rains.  The  Htrata  of 
mud  and  sand  seen  in  tiie  banks  show  that  all  the  adjacent  flat  country  has  been 
gradually  made  up>  or  rather  that  it  was  formerly  part  of  the  bed  of  tlie  lake  from 
which  the  waters  have  now  receded,  Mbapi's  vdlage  is  extensive,  an  J  surrounded 
by  a  high  fence  of  trees.  The  people  all  along  the  shores  of  the  bke  in  these 
districts  are  chiefly  Nyassas.  Whilst  walking  about  the  village  of  Mbapi»  I  saw 
a  little  hand-loom  for  making  cloth  from  cotton  yarn.  The  cloth  produced  was 
in  pieces  about  7  feet  by  C,  and  very  strong,  very  much  like  stout  canvas,  but 
softer.  At  Mbapi's  we  laid  in  a  supply  of  foud,  and  proceeded  the  next  morning  Ut 
cross  the  plain  whtcli  separates  this  district  from  that  held  by  the  Mangoni.  It  h 
nearly  all  a  continuous  long  flat,  largo  portions  of  which  am  swamped  during  the 
wot  season.  We  cami>ed  near  a  little  stream  of  water,  and  next  morning  went  on 
to  the  village  of  M|>ulufia,  This  is  the  frontier  village  of  the  Mangoni  in  this 
direction,  and  is  held  by  a  sub«chief  named  (jhakuawa.  On  our  way  from  Mbapi^s 
we  i>as»ed  several  sites  where  villages  had  once  stood.  We  learnt  that  the  late 
Mponda,  several  years  ago,  had  attacked  and  destroyed  those  villages.  He  was 
driven  out  of  his  own  country  on  the  west  side  of  Nyiissa  by  the  Man  sod  i,  and  he 
ill  his  turn  attacked  the  Nyassa  villages  at  the  south-west  end  of  the  lake.  Taking 
the  people  thus  captured  with  him,  he  went  and  established  the  villages  now  ruled 
over  by  the  present  M  pond  a.  About  this  forest  and  flat  there  were  the  marks  of 
plenty  of  large  game,  but  we  did  not  see  any^  owing  to  the  size  of  the  caravan,  and 
probably  also  to  the  long  grass  with  which  the  country  was  covered.  We  breakfasted 
atChakuawa's  village  under  a  large  Mtoiido  tree,  the  shade  of  which  covers  the  baraza, 
or  gossip-place  of  the  village.  From  Chakuawa*s  wo  went  on  to  M hen's,  where  we 
aaw  some  more  cloth  being  made,  thence  to  the  river  Bivanji,  where^  after  croasiDg, 
we  camped  on  the  left  bauk.  The  whole  of  ihe  country  is  very  fertile,  corn  is 
grown  in  abundance,  and  al«o  large  quantities  of  the  cotton  plant.  The  village  of 
Mtenganjila  i;*  o|>pai*ite,  on  the  right  bank,  and  a  little  in  advance  of  where  we 
camped  are  the  villages  ot  MaCua.  The  inhabitants  are  Kyassas  and  Yaos,  ruled 
over  by  ilangoni  head-men. 

On  starting  the  next  morning  we  passed  a  number  of  villages  with  extensive 
gardens,  and  in  two  hours  reached  the  village  of  Chifisi  Kwipa,  the  chief  head-man 
nf  the  villages  in  this  part  of  Cbikusi  s  country.  We  stayed  here  to  breakfast,  and 
were  informed  by  Chifisi  that  we  must  not  go  alone  to  Chikuai^s ;  that  he  would 
undertake  to  guide  us  there,  and  arrange  tlie  meetings,  as  that  was  part  of  his  duty. 
At  10.30  A.M,  we  resumed  the  march  ;  Chifisi,  who  was  accompanied  by  some  of  his 
men,  leading  the  way.  During  the  day  we  crossed  aud  rccrossed  the  Tuta,  a  small 
strcara  which  runs  into  the  Bwanji.  On  oar  way  we  passed  over  a  rather  steep  hill. 
On  the  top  we  found  large  heaps  of  stones,  which  reminded  me  of  similar  heaps  I  had 
*4een  on  the  road  from  Zanzibar  to  Unyamwezi,  On  inquiry  I  found  they  had  been 
raised  in  a  similar  manner.   Probably  the  spot  is  regarded  with  some  idea  of  sanctity, 


for  any  one  pnssiii?  tbis  way  on  businesfi  throws  a  stone  on  tlie  heap  to  secure 
( to  hb  undenaking.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  we  crossed  the  Tuta  again,  and 
camped  on  its  left  bank.  Here  there  are  no  villages,  hot  the  conntry  has  the  appear- 
fttice  of  being:  very  fertile*  The  next  morning  we  ascended  the  hilly  district  ofNyandi, 
wiih  the  rocka  Ondwe  oa  the  right,  and  Funi  on  the  left.  At  9  a-m.  we  reachetl 
the  banks  of  the  Liveleze.  This  river  rises,  one  day's  journey  to  the  south,  out  of  a 
mnall  lake  near  the  villages  of  Bands,  of  which  Kamkodo  is  the  head-nian.  After 
resting  on  the  Livelcze  we  moved  on  to  the  village  of  Malimba,  situated  at  the  foot 
of  the  bigb  bill  Chirohwe, 

From  this  place  we  sent  two  men  to  acquaint  the  king  of  our  approach  to  his 
town,  and  to  ask  his  permission  to  visit  Mm,  They  returned  witli  tho  message  that 
we  were  to  move  on  the  next  morning,  and  that  the  kings  nephew  Zieogea  would 
meet  and  take  ns  to  the  king. 

The  next  day  we  ascended  the  hill  Kamtanda  at  the  south  of  Chirobwe.  On 
descending  a  little  on  the  other  side  we  came  to  a  small  strciam  which  runs  south 
and  enters  the  Liveleze.  Here  we  breakfasted,  and  then  ascended  to  the  top  of  the 
ridge,  which  opens  out  into  an  exteoHive  pkteau.  We  stopped  hero  to  make  some 
observations,  and  towards  eveninp^  reached  Geagea's  village,  where  we  camped  for 
the  night.  There  are  but  few  villai^es  in  this  part  of  Chiknsrs  country,  and  the 
land  IB  very  poor.  When  we  w^ere  abont  to  start  the  next  morning,  two  messengers 
came  from  Ziengea,  saying  that  we  were  to  go  on  to  Mavnnji's  village,  and  await 
him  there.  This  we  did,  and  iibout  11.0  a.m.  Ztengea  came  up,  and  we  had  to 
go  with  him  to  his  village  of  Mai  we.  On  our  way  we  crossed  the  nv^er  Lifobwc, 
which  rises  in  the  Dexa  mountains  and  empties  itself  into  the  Zambeze. 

We  remained  at  Maiwe  for  two  days  waiting  for  a  message  from  the  king.  He 
ultimately  sent  word  that  we  were  to  move  on  to  his  chief  town  Lnisini,  where  we 
stayed  two  days  more  waiting  for  the  king's  arrivaL  Finally  we  had  to  move  on 
to  Kujipori  village  to  meet  him. 

The  next  morning  we  started  a^ain^  our  course  lying  along  the  left  bank  of 
the  Msunguzi.  Leaving  the  hill  Mang^ani  on  our  right  we  went  on  for  14  hours, 
and  then  crossed  the  streams  Chigaga  and  Chikuhwo  in  close  succession.  About  a 
mile  further  on  we  arrived  near  the  villa^re  of  Kujifiori.  ftlessengera  were  then  sent 
to  the  king  to  announce  our  arrival,  and  after  waiting  for  an  hour  he  came  out  to 
receive  oa.  A  seat  was  prepared  for  him  on  some  bales  of  cloth,  to  which  he  was 
conducted  when  he  arrived.  The  Consul  and  I  then  went  otit  of  I  he  tent  to  hirn. 
He  was  very  cordial  in  his  manner,  and  expressed  himself  as  pleased  that  w^e  had 
come  to  see  him.  Afterwards  when  the  camp  was  arranged,  the  men  of  our  caravan 
were  drawn  up  in  line,  and  three  volleys  were  fired  as  a  mark  of  respect  to  the 
king.  This  seemed  to  please  him  much.  After  some  conversation,  the  king 
moved  to  go  away ;  the  natives, of  whom  there  were  some  200  or  3O0  sitting  about, 
at  once  set  up  a  low  bleating  sound,  as  a  mark  of  respect  to  him. 

The  king  Chikusi  is  of  middle  height,  but  of  extraordinary  stoutness,  so  much 
so  that  he  can  only  walk  for  a  short  distance  at  a  time,  and  that  very  slowly. 
Except  this  obesity,  there  is  but  little  to  distinguish  him  from  any  of  his  subjects. 
His  dress  is  no  better,  and  not  so  good  as  that  of  some  of  his  hea*l-men.  The 
folluwing  morning  the  king  paid  on  ofliclal  visit  to  the  Consul,  and  remained  with 
him  upwards  of  two  hours,  discussing  matters  of  business. 

The  whole  of  Chikusi's  home  district  is  a  large  plateau,  which  begins  at  the 
ridge  of  the  hills  of  which  Chirobwe  forms  an  elevated  fiart,  and  extends  away 
t4)wards  the  we^t  far  beyond  the  hili  ranges  of  Samaug'omlw  and  Kandunda.  Over 
all  this  district  there  is  scarcely  a  tree  to  be  seen,  the  fuel  commonly  used  by  the 
people  being  corn  stalks  and  ox^ung.    The  land  near  the  east  is  very  poor,  but  as 


18G 


A  JOURNLV  FROM  BLA^ITYRE 


one  proceeds  towards  the  west  it  greatly  improves  in  appearancejand  all  the  country 
around  Loisini  and  Kujipori  is  very  fertile  and  extensively  cultivated.  There  are  a 
mimlwr  of  sniaU  streams  traversing  tlie  whole  conn  try  ♦  These  have  their  sources  in 
ihe  hill  ranges  dotted  all  over  the  plateau.  These  keep  the  hvnd  somewhat  damp, 
and  then  the  plateau  bcin^  at  an  elevation  of  nearly  5CK)0  feet,  the  land  does  not 
liecome  so  scorched  and  dried  up  here  na  in  the  plains  below.  Wc  found  it  very  cold 
on  the  plateau ;  tho  nunimum  thermometer  one  night  was  as  low  as  37°  F.  This 
may  not  seem  much  to  Europeans,  but  by  Africans  and  travellers  in  Africa  so  low  a 
temperature  is  felt  very  nmch.  From  a  sanitary  point  of  view,  I  think  the  plateau 
in  many  places  is  very  healthy,  and  several  suitable  spots  could  easily  be  selected  for 
Kuropeau  residencesj  but  it  loses  much  by  its  want  of  good  scenery  and  by  its  bleak 
flud  treelefis  appearance.  Food  is  generally  ciieap  and  plentiful,  fuwls  beiug  bought 
at  the  rate  of  six  for  two  yards  of  calico,  value  11(/.  The  people,  most  of  whom 
have  been  taken  prisoners  from  the  various  Nyfksea  and  Yao  tribes,  are  in  many 
respects  different  and  superior  to  the  peo[ile  of  th«  same  tribes  liviug  in  the 
plains.  These  latter  are  generally  iotnistve,  boisterous,  and  often  without  any 
show  of  respect,  %vhilst  tbu  people  who  have  been  brought  up  under  the  Mangoni 
ndo  are  most  respectful  and  quiet.  When  they  come  with  their  articles  for  sale, 
they  first  sit  some  15  or  20  yards  away;  on  being  iuvited  to  approach,  they 
do  so.  There  are  bnt  few  of  the  true  Mangoni  stock,  the  bulk  of  the  people 
called  Mangoni  being  men  who  have  been  taken  in  war,  and  then  traiucid  np 
to  the  Mangoni  cnstomH,  There  arc  probably  more  true  Mangoni  women  than 
men.  They  are  neariy  all  the  wives  of  the  king.  They  are  easily  distiugmslied 
from  other  women  by  their  light  colour,  and  by  being  generally  taller  and 
stonter  than  the  ordinary  women.  The  common  drcsa  of  the  women  la  a  loin  cloth. 
Some  may  be  eeen  with  another  cloth  in  addition  to  this,  witb  which  they  wrap 
themselves  up.  Others  have  neither  tlie  one  nor  the  other,  but  simply  fasten  a 
ijtring  round  the  waist,  to  which  in  front  they  attach  a  piece  of  cloth  about  two 
inches  wide  ;  this  is  drawn  lightly  between  the  legs,  rind  the  end  fastened  behind  to 
the  string  round  the  waist.  They  are  very  fond  of  bead  oroameuts,  which  consist  of 
neck  Laces,  bangles,  cartings  or  plugs,  enuf)'- boxes,  and  other  articles.  The  women 
also  wear  a  great  variety  of  brass  bangles.  With  the  exception  of  the  chiefs  and  head- 
men the  dress  of  the  men  is  very  meagre,  hke  that  of  moat  African  tribes,  con- 
sistin^  as  it  does  of  a  loin  clotli  or  piece  of  skin  as  a  substitute  j  in  addition  tlie 
Mangoni  wear  a  private  covering  jneculiar  to  all  the  Zulu  tribes.  The  arms  used  are 
chiefly  clubs  and  spears,  in  addition  to  which  they  all  carry  the  large  ovabshai^ed 
.shield.  Bows  and  arrows  may  sometimes  be  seen.  Unlike  the  Masai  it  is  said  tht-y 
do  not  throw  the  club,  but  on  coming  t<j  close  quarters,  they  strike  their  opponents* 
legs,  and  when  they  have  brought  them  down,  then  spear  them.  The  king  has  a 
few  guns,  but  it  appears  they  are  never  uaed  in  the  raids  Ufion  the  neighbouring 
tribes,  but  for  elephant  hunting,  or  occasionally  when  parties  are  sent  on  duty  to  a 
neighbouring  territory,  in  which,  case  a  gun  or  two  is  taken,  probably  for  the 
pnrjx>se  of  firing  a  friendly  eahitc  on  arrival.  King  Chikusi  seems  to  have  oompleto 
control  over  all  his  country,  and  there  is  the  greatest  resj>ect  shown  by  the  ordinary 
people  both  to  him  and  his  bead-men.  This  is  owing  probably  to  his  deaj>otic  and 
tyrannical  rule,  for  be  has  the  credit  of  removing  at  once  any  person  who  is  unfortu- 
nate enough  to  make  himself  obnoxious  to  him.  It  was  said  that  only  a  short  time 
ago  the  head-man  of  Luisini  village,  being  on  a  visit  to  the  king  on  business,  he 
requested  permission,  aa  night  drew  on,  to  retire,  and  at  this  the  king  took  great 
offence,  and  ordered  him  to  be  taken  out  and  speared,  wbicb  was  done.  The  houses 
of  the  Mangoni,  excepting  those  of  the  king  at  Luisini  and  Kujipori,  are  most 
miserable  buildings*  They  are  like  the  ICya^sa  round  hula,  but  much  smaller,  and 
almo&t  all  in  a  dilapidated  state.    This  undoubtedly  is  owing  to  the  fact  that  there 


TO  ANGONI-LAND  AND  BACK.  187 

18  no  wood  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  king's  houses  at  Luisini,  which  are  the  best 
we  saw  in  Angoni-land,  are  large,  being  some  80  feet  in  diameter,  with  bell-shaped 
tops.  Each  wife  at  Luisini  has  an  inclosure  to  herself,  in  which  is  included  the 
rojal  hut,  with  two  or  three  smaller  ones,  in  which  the  lady's  attendants  live,  and 
space  sufficient  to  conduct  the  general  household  work  of  grinding  com  and  brewing 
beer  being  carried  on.  All  these  are  kept  very  clean,  and  well  swept,  which  is 
quite  in  contrast  to  the  general  appearance  of  the  other  villages. 

We  remained  at  Kujipori  till  the  19th  June,  the  king  being  unwilling  that 
we  should  leave  before.  On  our  departure  we  were  given  an  escort  of  ten  men, 
and  an  official  was  sent  in  charge.  They  accompanied  us  to  Mpimbi  on  the  river 
Shir^.  where  the  Angoni  territory  in  that  direction  terminates. 

We  started  about  10.40  a.m.,  and  passing  under  Mpulu  hill,  reached  the  village 
of  Kamtawila  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Lifobwe  at  2.20.  We  stayed  here  to 
lunch,  and  then  crossing  the  Lifobwe  reached  the  village  of  Easungwe  and  camped 
at  5.20. 

On  June  20th  we  left  Easungwe's  and  reached  the  villages  of  Goma  at  11.45. 
On  our  way  we  crossed  several  streams  of  good  water  all  making  their  way  to  the 
Lifobwe.  From  Goma's  the  path  lies  between  the  hill  Mbidzi  to  the  north,  and 
some  spurs  of  the  Lipepeta  range  on  the  south.  On  issuing  from  the  pass  we 
traversed  some  undulating  ground  and  descended  into  the  district  of  Eamkodo. 
Thence  we  went  on  to  the  Lisipi,  and  camped  on  its  right  bank.  This  river  rises  on 
Eitungwe  hill.  The  next  morning  we  descended  into  the  Ncheu  district,  head-man 
Eadole.  After  a  rest  we  went  on  to  Bangala  village,  where  Lunduka  is  chief.  At 
4.50  P.H.  we  crossed  the  Msipi,  which  rises  on  Mount  Ncheu,  and  marched  on  to  the 
villages  of  Sakapi,  in  the  district  of  the  Msipi.  The  whole  of  the  country  between  the 
Lifobwe  and  the  villages  of  Ziwandea  is  poor,  the  soil  is  dry  and  little  cultivated. 

On  the  22nd  June,  at  8. 0  a.h.,  we  crossed  the  Luvelevi  river,  which  has  its  source 
in  the  M  vai  Hills,  in  the  district  of  Eama,  head-man  Njala.  At  5 .  40  we  reached  the 
stream  Eapeni,  which  flows  into  the  Luvelevi ;  this  we  crossed  and  camped  on  the 
right  bank.  The  journey  was  for  the  last  two  days  over  gently  undulating  ground, 
except  at  one  place,  where  there  is  a  rapid  descent  from  the  central  plateau  to  this 
lower  one.  The  next  day  we  made  a  short  journey  over  a  fairly  level  country,  and 
reached  the  village  of  Ziwandea.  This  is  a  collection  of  broken-down  villages  on 
both  banks  of  the  dry  bed  of  the  Mulunguzi.  During  the  rains  its  water  flows  into 
the  Luvelevi.  Here  the  land  is  very  good,  and  large  crops  are  raised.  Judging 
from  the  present  young  Indian  com,-  it  is  possible  that  the  natives  have  fresh  com 
all  the  year  round.  Bice  is  grown  plentifully  here,  and  sold  at  Matope  to  the 
Europeans  on  board  the  steamers  which  call  there.  The  next  day  we  had  a  very 
rough  walk  thTough  long  coarse  grass,  which  renders  travelling  very  tedious,  when 
beaten  down  over  the  path.  At  noon  we  crossed  the  dry  bed  of  the  Nazipili  river. 
It  had  cut  its  way  through  a  deep  stratum  of  white  limestone,  which,  by  report, 
lies  under  the  soil  of  all  the  country  about  Mpimbi.  At  1.0  p.m.  we  reached  the 
villages  of  chief  Euratali  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Luvelevi.  After  stopping  to 
lunch,  we  moved  on  to  the  village  of  the  head-man  Nyozera.  Next  day  we  reached 
Mpimbi,  on  the  river  Shir^,  about  11 .0  a.m.  After  a  little  delay  we  bade  farewell  to 
the  Angoni  escort,  and  were  taken  over  to  the  left  bank  by  Mpimbi's  people.  We 
then  moved  on  and  camped  in  the  forest.  The  next  moming  wo  started  early  and 
reached  the  top  of  Che  Mlumbi's  hill  at  12.15.  We  rested  in  his  village  to  lunch, 
and  in  the  afternoon  went  on  to  Zomba^  where  we  arrived  at  5.30,  and  pitched  our 
tents  in  the  Consulate  grounds. 

On  Monday  we  started  for  Blantyre,  arriving  there  on  Wednesday,  July  1st. 


(    188    ) 


^  GEOGBAPHICAL  NOTES,  ^^ 

Geographical  EdEcation.— -As  stated  by  Mr.  F.  Galton  in  the  die-^ 
CDBBion  on  Mr,  Mackioder's  address  (ajite,  p,  166),  throe  delegates  of  our 
Council  (Mr.  Galton,  Hon.  G.  C,  Brodrick,  and  Mr,  Freshfield),  met  (on 
the  10th  Febmary)  delegates  of  the  Hebdomadal  Council  of  Oxfords 
to  confer  on  the  subject  of  the  proposed  eetabljehment  of  a  Keadership 
of  geography  at  that  Univeraity,  On  the  18th  February,  another  dopnta- 
tion,  consisting  of  Mr.  Gabon,  Sir  Thomas  Wade,  General  J.  T.  Walker, 
and  Mr,  Freshfield,  met  for  a  similar  purpose  a  Coinmittee  of  the  Senate  of 
the  University  of  Cambridge,  The  results  of  both  these  conferences, 
though  of  course  not  final,  were  most  encouraging  to  the  prospecta  of 
the  recognition  of  geograpliy  at  both  IjniversitieB, 

Mr.  Last's  Exploratian  of  the  Hamuli  Hilli. — We  have  received  a 
brief  preliminary  account  of  the  results  of  Mr.  Laet^s  visit  to  the  Namuli 
Hills,  in  a  letter  sent  by  the  traveller  from  Quillimane  on  the  6  th 
December  last.  He  devoted  three  months  to  the  task  of  exploring  this 
region,  which  it  will  be  recollected  was  the  main  object  of  his  expedi- 
tion. During  this  time  he  went  almost  completely  round  the  hills,  but 
found  it  impossible  to  reach  the  summit  of  tho  principal  peak  or  double 
peak  ;  in  fact»  he  came  to  the  conclnsioD  that  it  was  inaccessible.  Spurs, 
to  the  height  of  2000  feet  or  more,  extend  from  it  on  all  sides,  above 
which  the  two  cones  rise  precipitously.  There  is  a  clump  of  trees  near 
the  top  of  one  of  the  cones,  near  which  arc  probably  tho  sources  of  a 
small  but  perennial  stream,  which  flows  down  tho  eastern  side. 
Before  leaving  the  district,  Mr.  Last,  with  a  party  of  twenty  men, 
ascended  the  banks  of  the  Lukugu  river  to  its  source,  which  lies  west 
of  Kamuli,  at  the  north  foot  of  Mount  Pilani.  He  found  the  whole 
country  well  watered  and  fertile,  though  very  sparsely  inhabited.  Un- 
fortunately, the  Lukugu  river,  the  main  watercourse  of  this  promising 
region,  owing  to  its  long  series  of  rapids  and  waterfalls,  is  unnavigabldj 
even  by  canoes,  and  its  mouth  is  closed  to  coasting  vessels  by 
formidable  bar. 

Ihaglaud  and  Germany  in  East  Africa. — The  priDcipal  provisions  of 
the  recent  treaty  between  the  two  Governments  regarding  the  boundaries^ 
of  their  respective  territorial  interests  in  East  Africa,  and  also  defining  ^ 
the  possess  ions  of  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar,  may  be  summarised  as  follows : 
— Both  powers  recognise  the  sovereignty  of  the  Sultan  over  the  islands 
of  Zanzibar,  Pemba,  Lamu,  and  Mafia,  and  also  over  all  the  small  islands 
within   12  nautical  miles  of  Zanzibar.     Germany  assents  to  the  agree- 
ment between  England   and   France   regarding   the   independence    of 
Zanzibar.      The  two  Powers  also   recognise  as  the  possessions  of  the 
Saltan  on  the  continent  an  uninterrupted  stretch  of  coast  from  the  mouth ^B 
of  the  Miningani  river  on  the  south  (near  Cape  Delgado)  to  Kipioi  on 
the  north,  but  extending  only  10  nautical  miles  inland.     Both  Powers 


I 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


189 


recognise  the  coast  from  Eipini  to  the  north  end  of  Manda  Bay  as  be- 
longing to  Witn.  Great  Britain  agrees  to  support  the  negotiations  of 
Germany  with  the  Sultan  by  which  the  latter  is  to  grant  a  lease  of  the 
harbour  dues  of  Dar-es-Salam  and  Pangani  to  the  German  East  African 
Society,  in  consideration  of  an  annual  payment  on  the  part  of  the 
Society,  and  also  to  use  its  influence  to  promote  a  friendly  arrangement 
with  reference  to  the  opposing  claims  of  the  same  Society  and  the  Sultan 
on  the  Kilima-Njaro  territory.  With  regard  to  the  respective  spheres 
of  interest  of  the  two  Powers,  that  of  Germany  extends  from  the 
HoYuma  in  the  south  to  the  river  Wanga,  Kilima-Njaro  and  the  south 
end  of  Victoria  Nyanza  in  the  north,  while  that  of  Great  Britain  is  con- 
fined to  tho  country  between  Kilima-Njaro  and  the  Tana  river.  The 
actual  line  of  demarcation  runs  from  the  mouth  of  the  Wanga  in  a 
straight  line  to  Lake  Jipe,  along  the  east  and  north  shore  of  the  lalce 
across  the  river  Lumi,  dividing  equally  the  districts  of  Taveta  and 
Chaga,  and  then  along  the  northern  slope  of  the  Kilima-Njaro  range  in 
a  direct  line  to  a  point  in  1°  S.  lat.,  on  the  eastern  shore  of  Lake  Victoria 
Nyanza.  Each  Power  agrees  to  make  no  acquisition  and  establish  no 
protectorate  within  the  limits  of  the  other's  territory.  The  German 
Protectorate  had  formerly  only  been  declared  over  Useguha,  TJkami, 
Nguru,  and  Usagara.  We  hope  to  be  able  to  give  a  map  showing  these 
new  political  boundaries  in  the  April  number  of  the  '  Proceedings.' 

Eonvier's  Astronomical  Observations  to  fix  Positions  on  the  Oongo.— 
The  report  of  Captain  Eouvier  on  his  recent  journey  to  the  Congo, 
when,  jointly  with  Lieut.  Liebrechts  and  Captain  Massari  he  acted  as 
one  of  the  Commisbioners  for  laying  down  the  boundary  between  the 
Congo  State  and  the  French  possessions,  promises  to  become  most 
valuable  to  geographers.  It  is  to  be  accompanied  by  an  atlas  of 
38  maps,  showing  the  regions  explored  on  various  scales.  The  astro- 
nomical observations  upon  which  these  maps  will  be  based  have  just 
been  published  in  the  'Annales  hydrographiques.'  They  include 
79  latitudes,  one  longitude  determined  absolutely,  and  70  longitudes 
determined  chronometrically  and  adjusted  to  Libreville  on  the  Gabun, 
as  laid  down  on  the  French  Admiralty  chart  (9°  26'  33"  E,  of  Green- 
wich), and  to  N'Ganchu,  which  was  determined,  by  thirteen  sets  of 
lunars,  to  be  in  16"^  12'  E.  It  is  satisfactory  to  find  that  Captain 
Rouvier  8  longitudes  agree  very  nearly  with  those  of  Lieut.  Mizon. 
^      The  principal  positions  ai-e : — 


Loango  .. 

4  38  25  c5. 

11  49  10  E. 

Equator  Station  0    2     0  N. 

18  13  10  E. 

Kitabi    ..      .. 
>Iakabana     .. 

4    10,, 
3  25  10  „ 

12  11    0  „ 
12  37  50  „ 

^T^v\        }  120  30  8. 
(Alima)  ..   / 

16  15  20  „ 

T«ndima-Niadl 

4    6  40„ 

13    4  40  „ 

Leketi  ..      ..     1  35  50  „ 

14  54  50  „ 

Maoyangs    .. 

4  53  30  ., 

14  22  50  „ 

Diele     ..     ..     1  41  30  „ 

14  42  40  „ 

BrazzaTille  .. 

4  16  55  „ 

15  17  10  „ 

Franceville  ..     1  36  50  „ 

13  34  30  „ 

N'Ganchn     .. 

3  17    3„ 

16  12    0  „ 

Boue      ..      ..0    5  20  „ 

11  54  40  „ 

BoDga    ..      .. 

1    6  40,, 

16  52  10  „ 

Libreville     ..     0  23  25N. 

9  26  33  „ 

N'Konja       .. 

0    8  40,, 

17  41  30  „ 

No.  TIL— Maboh  1887.] 


190 


OEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES, 


Tho  true  longitudo  of  Loopoldviile  on  Shinloj^  Pool  appears  tlni§  to 
te  15"*  15'  E.  (inat^jail  of  15"^  B\  as  determiiKicl  by  Herr  Baiimatin  from 
two  sets  of  liinars). 

Dr.  Lenz's  Expeiiition, — In  a  communieatiDii  to  the  new  niiml>er  of 
the  *  Mittheilnngen '  of  the  Yienna  Geographical  Society,  Dr.  Franz 
liitfer  V.  Le  Monnier  refers  to  the  delay  wLicIi  has  taken  place  in  Dr, 
Lenz's  leaving  Zanzibar.  From  a  Times  telegram  we  learn  that  he 
was  expected  to  leave  about  ten  days  ago.  It  is  stated  that  two  interest - 
ing  letters  (to  be  piiMished  in  the  next  number)  havo  been  receivetl 
from  Dr.  Lenz,  one  dated  from  Lake  Tanganyika  in  September,  and  the- 
other  from  the  river  Shire,  in  December  1886.  Meanwliile  we  are  told 
that  the  expedition  left  Kasongoon  Juno  20th,  greatly  hindered  by  tho 
loss  of  several  of  its  men  through  small-pox.  On  Jidy  lltli  Kibonde 
was  reached,  a  park-like  plateau  passed,  and  a  mountain  eros^ecL  On 
August  7th  tho  expedition  reachetl  the  Mtowa  country,  on  the  went 
ahore  of  Lake  Tanganyika,  and  was  received  by  Captain  Here  ou 
Kavala  Island.  Ujiji  was  entered  on  August  15th,  Here  Dr.  Lonz 
discovered  that  on  account  of  the  warlike  raids  of  tho  Arabs  and  the 
excitement  in  Uganda,  it  would  bo  impossible  for  him  to  push  northward** 
to  Emin  Pasha,  aa  was  his  original  intention.  Ho  resolved,  therefore, 
instead  of  proceeding  by  Tahora  to  Zanzil^ar,  to  go  southwards  to  the 
south  end  of  Lake  Tanganyika,  and  onwards  tu  Lake  Kyassa.  He  reached 
the  latter  at  Karon ga's  town,  pToceD<lecl,  apparently  b}'  land,  to  the  south 
end,  along  the  Shire',  and  so  down  tu  (^uillimane.  Dr.  von  Le  Monnier 
points  out  that  this  is  tho  ninth  timo  in  w^hicb  Africa  has  been  crossed 
by  white  travellers,  so  fur  as  known.  Dr.  Lenz  has  crossed  the  eonti- 
lient  from  the  mouth  of  the  Congo  to  the  mouth  of  the  Zambesi  in  less 
than  17  months.  The  previous  expeditions  havo  been  those  of  Living- 
stone, 1854— G  (Loanda  to  Quillimano),  20  months;  Cameron  (Bagamoyo 
to  Catembela),  2  years  and  8  months,  lS7:i-5;  Stanley,  1874-7  (Baga- 
moyo  to  Banana),  2  years  and  9  montlis  ;  Serpa  Pinto,  1877-D  (Benguela 
to  Durban),  16  months;  Wissmann,  1881-2  (Loanda  to  Sadani),  1  yeai- 
10  months ;  A  mot,  1881-4  (Dnrbfin  to  Benguela),  3  years  3  months ; 
Capello'and  Ivens,  1884-5  (Mopsamcdes  to  Quillimane),  14  months; 
Qloerup,  1884-6  (Banana  to  Zanzibar),  3  years. 

Guinea, — The  unknown  country  lying  to  tho  north  of  Togo  Land 
which,  it  will  be  remembered,  was  partly  traversed  hy  Herr  Zbller,  somcg 
two  years  ago,  has  been  further  explored  liy  aX\cncb  missionarj',  nametl 
Baudin.  Another  missionary,  M.  ^Menager,  had  in  1885  penetrated 
heyond  Agome,  Zollcr*s  farthest  point,  to  Adangbe.  In  the  bulletin  (Xo- 
5,  1880),  of  the  Geographical  Society  of  Lyons  will  bo  found  a  short 
account  of  M.  Bandin's  jouTne3^  He  started  in  January  188(5,  from 
Ague  on  the  coast,  and  pushed  into  the  interior  as  far  as  the  town  of 
AtakpamOj  which  at  the  time  of  his  visit  was  beginning  to  recover  itself 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  191 

after  its  destmotion  by  Dahomey.  The  traveller  intended  to  proceed 
still  farther  north,  but  was  prevented  by  the  opposition  of  the  natives. 
He  accordingly  turned  eastwards  and  reached  Togodo,  whence  he  effected 
his  retnm  jonmey  down  the  river  Mono  to  the  coast.  A  map  of  the 
traveller's  itinerary  is  published  with  the  paper. 

The  Monsoons. — In  Mr.  H.  F.  Blanford*s  report  on  the  Administra- 
tion of  the  Meteorological  Department  of  India  for  1885-6,  there  is  a 
statement  of  considerable  geographical  interest  with  reference  to  the 
monsoons,  which  tends  greatly  to  modify  the  prevailing  conception  as  to 
the  origin  and  real  character  of  these  winds.     Briefly,  the  summer 
monsoon  is  regarded  as  an  anomalous  diversion  of  the  south-east  trade- 
wind  of  the  South  Indian  Ocean,  caused  by  the  high  temperature  deve- 
loped on  the  continent  of  Asia  in  the  early  summer  months.    But  Mr. 
Blanford  points  out,  the  wind-charts  of  the  North  Indian  Ocean,  now  in 
course  of  preparation,  show  that  the  south-east  trade  does  not,  as  a  rule, 
blow  across  the  Equator,  and  changing  its  course  from  south-east  to 
south  and  finally   to   south-west,  pass   gradually   into  a  south-west 
monsoon.     A  rainy  belt  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Equator  exists 
throughout  the  year,  which  is  fed  by  the  south-east  trades.    In  this 
belt  the  winds  are  very  variable,  blowing  from  all  quarters ;  and  it  is. 
only  some  6°  N.  of  the  Equator  that  the  monsoon  is  established  as  a 
comparatively  steady  current  of  wind.    The  monsoon,  therefore  (in  so 
far  as  it  is  a  south-weat  monsoon),  is  drawn  from  a  reservoir  of  air  over 
the  equatorial  zone,  fed  by  the  south-east  trades,  but  it  is  not  the  south- 
east trade  wind  simply  diverted  from  its  former  course.    Moreover,  Mr. 
Blanford  maintains  that  the  Indian  summer  monsoon  is  not  simply  a  sotUh- 
west  monsoon.    On  the  Arabian  Sea,  and  especially  beyond  the  tropic, 
the  winds  are  as  frequently  west  as  south-west,  and  not  unfrequently 
north-west ;  and  this  is  also  the  case  on  the  west  coast  of  India.    The 
less  southerly  or  the  more  northerly  the  wind,  the  finer  is  the  weather 
and  the  smaller  is  the  rainfall  of  the  Bombay  Presidency.     According 
to  Mr.  Blanford,  the  explanation  of  these  facts  is  that,  at  certain  times,. 
a  considerable  portion  of  the  air  which  enters  into  the  western  branch 
of  the  monsoon  is  not  drawn  from  equatorial  regions  at  all,  but  from  the 
dry  coasts  and  still  drier  plains  and  mountains  to  the  north.    In  all 
years,  in  the  summer  season,  this  dry  air  famishes  the  greater  part  of 
the  winds  of  the  lower  Indus  Valley  and  Western  Eajputana,  and  hence 
the  rainlessness  of  this  portion  of  Western  India.      As  Mr.  Blanford 
points  out,  these  conclusions  have  a  very  practical  bearing,  and  are 
certainly  of  much  interest  in  connection  with  the  physical  geography 
of  India  and  of  Central  Asia. 

Inflnence  of  Forests  on  Climate. — In  the  same  report  Mr.  Blanford 
describes  the  steps  which  have  been  taken  in  India  to  discover  to  what 
extent  forests  influence  the  rainfall.    A  few  observatories  have  been 

p  2 


192 


GEOGIUPHICAL  NOTES, 


establiBhed  in  the  Ajmer©  forests,  and  the  results  so  far  have  been  to 
tihow  slightly  but  appreciably  higher  rainfall  in  the  forest  than  with- 
out. However,  it  is  admitted  tliat  more  careful  inquiry  must  be  made 
before  any  definite  Gonclusions  can  be  drawji.  Mr,  Blanford  points  .out 
that  M.  WoeikofF,  in  a  paper  ou  the  Bubject,  with  special  reference  to 
India^  essentially  supports  the  view  which  he  himself  regards  as 
probable. 

Jotimey  to  the  Soureea  of  the  Finke  Eiver.— Mr.  Charles  Chewings 
has  recently  published  in  the  Adelaide  Observer  an  account  of  his  journey 
to  the  sources  of  the  Finke  rivor»  which  baa  now  been  issued  in  pamphlet 
fomip  accompanied  by  a  %^aluable  map.  The  Finke  river  is  tbe  largest 
of  all  the  Central  Australian  watercourses;  it  drains  the  whole  of  the 
oonntry  on  either  side  for  scoria,  and  even  hundreds  of  miles  in  some 
directions.  It  is  sinuous  in  its  windings,  and  is  fringed  with  a  wide 
belt  of  gum  trees  on  either  side  the  whole  of  its  course.  The  journey 
was  mado  in  1885,  and  the  distance  travelled  was  considerably  over 
5000  miles.  The  author  hoWs  that  the  far  inland  tract  of  Central 
Australian  pastoral  land  is  by  no  m(?an8,  as  it  has  been  termed,  a  desert ; 
on  the  contrary,  much  of  the  country  traversed  w-as  found  to  be  excel- 
lently watered  and  well  grassed.  Although  at  times  the  expedition 
followed  on  the  tracks  of  other  travellers,  a  great  deal  of  new  country 
has  been  explored,  for  a  description  of  which  we  must  refer  our  readers 
to  tbe  authorV  full  and  interesting  account. 

Former  Tegetation  of  Iceland, — The  question  of  the  former  vege- 
tation of  Iceland  was  dealt  with  at  some  length  hy  M*  Fedderaen,  in 
a  paper  recently  read  by  him  before  the  Geographical  Society  at 
Ct>penhagen,  on  bis  explorations  in  the  southern  jiart  of ^  the  island* 
His  discoveries  in  the  valley  of  the  geysers  appear  to  falsify  Dr. 
Labonne's  *  conclusions  as  to  the  character  of  the  ancient  vegetAtion  of 
the  country.  M.  Feddersen  found  there  great  trunks  of  trees  which 
had  been  dug  up  from  the  sandy  soil,  showing  that  at  one  time  this 
district  was  covered  with  large  forests  of  gigantic  birch  trees.  His 
theory,  it  will  be  remembered,  is  supported  by  the  ** Sagas'*  or 
hymns  of  the  ancient  Icelanders.  He  has  also  boon  able  to  prove  that 
an  immense  arm  of  tbe  sea  penetrated  formerly  into  the  south  part  of 
Iceland,  but  has  disappeared  in  consequence  of  an  upheaval  of  the  soil. 
A  curious  fact  noted  by  tbe  traveller  was  that  salmon  ascend  tbe 
river  Elve  with  the  warm  water  of  the  geysers*  M.  Feddersen  confirms 
Dr.  Labonne*8  observations  regarding  the  still  active  character  of  the 
gejsers. 

Journey  across  Labrador.— *  The  Church  Missionary  Intelligencer* 
for  June  of  last  year,  publishes  an  account  of  a  jotimey  across  Labrador, 
from  Little  Whale  river  to  Ungava  Bay,  undertaken  by  the  Eev.  E»  J, 

^  •  Prcc.  R.G.S,.  1887,p.52. 


4 


4 


4 


G90GULPSIC1L  50nS.  1^ 

I^ek.  one  of  tike  C&vrck  Sacktr's  misEi'nuie&  Mr.  Ptck,  with  foca> 
le&  lit^  WLile  TiTu-  OB  Jnhr  ITtL,  iSSi,  &&d  after  dOGsing 
part  cf  Bkii^Kx^i  GyiIC  whidi  is  about  tlurtr*  raikiB 
vUe.  reftcbed  a  ssill  irrer,  asid  entered  a  email  diain  of  likeB  lyic^ 
abovt  fiait  W  wvi^  T^  ctmilji  here  ^vas  liilly,  ai>d  in  scvse  places 
MacwTtuliiiiwi  After  paiffTng  tlirengli  azKidter  diain  of  lakes,  lying 
abos!  eart  ly  Aorts^lkalf-i^ordi,  tbe  party  raac^ied  *-  Clear  Water  Lake."^ 
His  lake  k  abovt  iortr  milea  kng,  and  about  fifty  in  breadth.  On 
leavxBg  its  noniieia  dkove  tber  paaaed  into  a  anall  livier.  The 
coantiy  here  v»b  nveh  lover  than  that  hitherto  fcen.  Afto*  making 
»  lev  portagea^  the  party  entered  '*  Seal  La^^  which  is  about  sercnty 
mile*  kmg.  ani  which  Taiies  much  in  Ireadth,  being  abcmt  its 
wddle  qmJie  narrow,  in  ccther  places  measxziing  perhaps  ftosn  thirty 
to  fifty  miles  brc^d,  and  studded  with  iflanofi  On  learing  its  south- 
gmttui  boandazy,  they  entered  a  small  rirer,  and  passed  into  a 
ixther  large  lake.  The  coontry  hereaboats  was  xery  moantaino«is. 
T^  remainder  of  the  jommey  was  aooomplisbed  by  following  the  course 
of  the  zirer  to  Fort  Chimo,  one  of  the  Hiidsi?ti's  Bay  Company's  posts, 
ITngsim  Bay,  where  they  arziTed  on  the  llth  of  AngnsL 


Xxvor,  XraxiL — The  Xingn  rixer  and  its  sources  are  to  be  the 
aeene  of  farther  exploratioDS  by  Dr.  Karl  tx>q  den  Steinen,  the  enter* 
prising  tzsTeDer  whose  Talnable  journey  in  IBSl,  in  the  same  region,  we 
ikodatd  at  aosae  length  in  the  number  oi  oar  *  Prcceedings'  for  August 
lasL  The  present  expedition  includes  Herr  W.  t.  d.  Steinen,  who  aooom- 
panied  the  former  party.  Dr.  P.  Ehrenrdch,  known  to  geographers  by  his 
trsTfls  on  the  Bio  Booe  (Brazil),  and  Dr.  P.  TcgeL  who  with  Dr.  K. 
T-.  d.  Steinen  formod  part  of  the  German  mission  to  Sovith  Geucgia. 
The  expedition  left  Germany  on  25th  Jannaiy  last  em  remit  for  Coyahs, 
which  win  again  be  the  starting-paini.  The  efforts  of  the  party  will  be 
directed  to  the  more  complete  surrey  of  the  three  important  river 
sooroes  of  the  Xingn,  e^^ecialhrc^  the  eastern  arm,  the  EnliseiL  Another 
important  fioatare  of  ihe  work  of  the  expedition  will  be  the  study  of 
those  Indian  tribes  whidi  still  remain  nntooched  by  ciTilisation ;  among 
these  Dr.  ron  Steinen  intends  to  make  a  long  stay. 


Suiieji. — ^An  extract  from  a  report  presented  to 
the  Braziliaa  Goremment  on  the  work  of  the  Commission  (IST^IS^) 
appointed  to  determine  the  boundaries  between  Br&zQ  and  Yenei:iiela  on 
the  Upper  Xegro  and  Bio  feanoo,  is  published  in  the  ^  Zeitschrift '  (No.  4) 
of  the  Geographical  Society  of  Berlin.  The  report,  which  was  drawn  np 
by  Lieitt.-Colonel  F.  de  Aranjo,  not  only  gives  the  results  of  the  sanrey 
as  regards  the  bonndary  line,  bat  contains  geogr^hical  and  topo- 
graphical information  of  the  highest  importanoe,  which  has  led  to  the 
rectification  of  the  coarses  of  the  nnmeroas  tribataiies  of  the  Bio  Xegro 
and  BioBrukoo.    A  m^  on  the  scale  1 : 1,200,000  aooompanies  the  report. 


194 


OBITL^iRr. 


.Another  bonndarj  survey  is  comiaeiicmg  operations  at  tlie  oppoeite 
extremity  of  the  Empire,  The  QoTemmetits  of  Brazil  and  the  Argen- 
tine Republic  agreed  some  time  ago  to  the  appointment  of  a  united 
oommiBaioa  to  explore  and  thoroughly  eurvey  the  boundary  territory 
between  the  two  countries,  with  the  view  to  a  friendly  settlement 
of  the  lino  of  frontier.  After  a  long  delay  the  CommisBion  has  got 
to  work.  It  includes  M,  J-  L.  Gannendia,  Pr.  A,  Seelstrang,  the 
well-known  cartographer,  M.  Y.  Virasoro,  sunreyor,  and  M*  G.  Niederlein, 
who  has  charge  of  the  geographical  and  natural  history  part  of  the 
work.  The  operations  of  this  oommifision  are  expected  to  extend  over 
nearly  two  years,  and  will  donbleea  add  much  to  our  knowledge  of  the 
geography  of  South  America. 


Sir  Charles  M.  MacGregor.*--Sir  Charles  MacGregor  was  the  son  of  Major 
Robert  Guthrie  MacGregoFj  Bengal  Artillery,  and  grandson  of  Major-General  James 
MacGre;i;or,  Bengal  Cavalry,  of  tbe  MacGregors  of  Glen  gyle,  his  mother  being  a 
daughter  of  General  Archibald  WaUon,  o.b.,  Bengal  Cavalry.  He  was  bom  at  Agra 
on  the  12lh  Aiiguat,  1840,  so  that  at  the  date  of  liia  death  he  waa  in  his  forty* 
seFentli  year.  He  was  educated  at  Marlborough^  and  entered  the  Bengal  Army  at 
pjthe  very  early  age  of  sixteen*  He  reached  India  just  in  time  to  take  his  tihare  in 
the  events  of  the  Mutiny,  and  exhibited  his  soldierly  qualities  early  in  his  career. 
He  waa  present  in  no  leea  than  fifteen  actlooe,  besiden  the  siege  and  capture  of 
Lucknow,  and  was  twice  wounded.  His  distinguished  courage  marked  him  eren 
then,  and  many  feats  of  pluck  and  endurance  are  recorded  of  him»  His  next  cam- 
paign was  in  Chiua,  where  he  was  twice  wounded  in  the  action  at  Sin-ho,  He  was 
then  serving  witk  the  19th  Bengal  Cavalry  (Fane*s  Horee),  and  there  was  not,  in  that 
distinguiahed  regiment,  a  better  s^jecimen  of  the  **  beau  sabreur "  than  Charles 
MacGregor,  His  chivalrous  nature,  which  always  prompted  Mm  to  take  the  part  of 
the  weak  against  the  stmng,  and  his  outtipoken  plainness  of  speech  were  a  little  apt 
to  place  him  occasionally  in  a  position  antagonistic  to  the  interests  of  military 
discipline,  and,  it  may  be  added^  to  bis  own  interests  also.  It  is  said  (but  with 
what  truth  I  cannot  tell)  that  his  gallantry  in  action  during  tbe  China  campaign 
would  have  won  for  him  the  Victoria  Cross,  a  distinction  which  he  covet«d  above 
all  others,  but  for  his  outspoken  profession  of  faith  in  the  innocence  of  a  tr(.x)i>er 
whom  he  considei-ed  to  be  unjustly  punished, 

Tt  was  PS  Brigade-Major  and  Deputy- Assist  ant  Quartermastcr-Getieral  in  Bhutan 
(1864-66)  that  I  first  made  his  acquaintance,  when  he  had  an  excellent  opportunity 
for  indulging  hia  passion  for  acquiring  new  geographical  iDformalion,  and  filling  up 
biank  sjiaces  in  maps.  The  two  columns  which  advanced  into  the  Bhutan  Hills 
were  widely  separated  hy  a  strip  of  intervening  hilbcountry,  densely  covered  with 
jungle,  and  skirted  by  the  pkins  and  forests  of  the  **  Dears,*'  about  which  very  little 
waa  then  known*  It  was  thought  iiossible  that  between  the  two  hases  of  operations 
at  Buia  and  Dcwangiri,  a  tbird  route  migbt  be  found  lead  tog  more  directly  to 


I 


•  By  Lieut-Colonel  T.  H.  Holdieh^  b.e. 


OBlTUARr,  196 

i'linakha,  the  capital  of  Bhutan.  MacGregor  accompanied  the  survey  parties  in 
ezplofing  for  it,  and  acquired  much  valuable  information  about  this  remote  region. 
He  was  again  wounded  in  Bhutan,  at  the  actions  of  Dalimkote  and  Bala,  and 
obtained  a  breret  for  his  gallantry. 

We  next  met  in  Abyssinia,  where  he  was  actively  employed  on  the  Staff,  and 
was  one  of  the  lucky  few  who  were  present  at  the  action  of  Arogi  and  the  capture 
of  Magdala.  Although  Abyssinia  offered  an  exceptionally  fine  field  for  geographical 
research,  from  the  fact  that  the  line  of  route  followed  during  the  advance  to  Magdala 
was  pnustically  the  main  line  of  watershed  between  the  Nile  basin  and  the  Red  Sea, 
it  was  not  possible  to  carry  out  explorations  very  far,  partly  owing  to  the  rapidity 
with  which  the  expedition  progressed,  and  partly  to  our  somewhat  insecure  relations 
with  the  various  tribes  through  whose  territory  we  passed.  MacQregor*s  hands  were 
too  full  of  work  just  then  for  him  to  have  much  leisure  for  his  favourite  pursuit. 
He  oontinoed  on  Staff  employ  after  the  Abyssinian  expedition  till  1874,  and  was 
appointed  Director  of  Military  Transport  during  the  Tuhut  famine. 

In  1869  Colonel  MacGregor  married  Fanny,  daughter  of  Sir  Heniy  Durand,  the 
Lieatenant-Govemor  of  the  Punjab.  It  was  her  death  that  prompted  his  first 
wanderings  in  Persia  in  1875,  which  resulted  in  his  book  called  '  Journey  through 
Khorassan.' 

At  the  time  when  he  undertook  this  journey  our  geographical  knowledge  of 
KhoiaaBan  was  exceedingly  limited,  whibt  the  interest  that  was  attached  to  this 
portion  of  Persia  and  to  the  north-western  districts  of  Afghanistan  was  daily 
becoming  intensified  owing  to  the  gradual  encroachments  of  Russia  towards  the 
Pernan  and  Afghan  border.  The  book  appeared  just  when  it  was  wanted,  and  for 
several  years  Macgregor  was  imdoubtedly  our  best  authority  on  the  geography  of 
the  vague  regions  of  the  Afghan  boundary.  He  travelled  right  across  Persia,  passing 
through  Shiraz,  Yezd,  and  Birjand,  to  the  Afghan  border,  at  that  time  infested  with 
Turcoman  raiders ;  and  it  was  not  without  considerable  risk,  and  many  amusing 
adventures,  that  he  made  his  way  over  the  border  to  Pahra,  from  which  place  he 
purposed  to  pay  Herat  a  visit.  In  this,  however,  he  was  disappointed,  for,  although 
he  reached  a  village  within  a  few  miles  only  of  the  city,  he  was  allowed  to  proceed 
DO  further.  It  was  reserved  to  the  Engineer  officers  of  the  Boundary  Commission 
twelve  yean  later  to  be  the  firat  to  enter  Herat  since  the  days  of  Pottinger.  Mac- 
Gregor was  shown  out  of  Afghan  territory  with  more  decision  than  politeness,  but 
he  acquired  a  great  deal  of  most  important  information  ere  he  left,  and  we  owe  it  to 
him  Uiat  the  question  of  the  strategical  value  of  the  Herat  valley  and  of  Sarakhs 
(which  he  afterwards  visited)  was  discussed  with  something  approaching  to  accurate 
knowledge  of  the  existing  state  of  those  positions.  This  is  no  place  to  discuss  the 
soundness  or  otherwise  of  his  views. ;  |  The  strong  point  about  the  man's  character 
was  that  he  always  determined  to  form  his  opinions  at  firat  hand,  to  see  for  himself 
and  to  speak  plainly  of  what  he  saw,  without  much  thought  of  delicate  suscepti- 
bilities ;  and  it  follows  that  his  opinions  will  always  command  the  respect  of  those 
who  wish  to  learn  the  truth  from  the  most  authentic  sources. 

A  yeai^s  rest  after  this  most  adventurous  journey  was  enough  to  prepare  him  for 
yet  another  series  of  explorations  in  the  uninviting  deserts  of  Baluchistan.  In 
company  with  Captain  Lock  wood  he  started  from  Gwadur,  on  the  Mekran  coast,  on 
the  1st  January,  1877,  and  the  two  together  contrived,  by  occasionally  following 
divergent  routes,  to  explore  a  most  uninviting  waste  of  mostly  desert  country 
between  the  sea-coast  and  the  Helmund.  MacGregor  followed  the  Pasni  route  vi&  the 
Kej  valley  to  Panjgur,  where  he  joined  Lock  wood,  who  had  taken  a  more  direct  line 
from  Gwadur.  They  then  made  their  way  across  the  Baluchistan  desert  to  Zirreh, 
during  which  part  of  their  journey  they  encountered  terrible  hardships  from  want 


19G 


OBlTUARy. 


of  water,  ODly  twice  finding  a  drinkable  supply  during  a  fortTiight  of  their  jo 
They  Bepa  ratal  again  at  Lai  Khan  Cbah,  Lock  wood  returning  to  India  hy  the  now 
well-known  route  passinj;  through  Clmgeh,  Xashki»  aud  Mastaug;  and  MacGregor 
making  his  way  through  the  Brahui  country  to  Sohrab  and  the  Mula  Pass. 

In  1878-79-80,  Colonel  MacGregor  found  coDgenial  employment  in  AfghauiBtan. 
He  was  «p[x>inteti  Deputy-Qunrtermaster-General  on  the  line  of  the  Khaibar  com- 
munication during  the  firijt  ]>ha9c  of  iho  Afghan  campaign,  and  took  his  share  in  the 
operationii  in  the  Bazar  and  Jellfllabad  valleys.  After  the  massacre  of  Cavaguari  aud 
his  escort  at  Kabul,  when  Sir  F.  Roberta  again  took  the  field,  MacGregor  was  with 
liim,  and  shared  in  the  succeRs  of  Charasia  and  the  rapid  advance  on  Kabul.  There 
was  a  day  in  December  1879  when  his  distinguished  courage  again  brought  him  to 
the  front.  There  had  l>een  an  action  near  Kila  Kazi  in  the  Chard  eh  plain  to  the  west 
of  Kabul,  the  result  of  which  had  been  to  le^ve  some  British  guns  hard  and  fast,  well 
wedged  into  certain  inconvenient  irrigation  channels,  which  barred  their  progress  as 
they  were  withdrawn  towards  Sherpur  afier  the  action-waa  over.  It  was  MacGregor 
who  undertook  to  extricate  them  in  face  of  the  enemy,  and  h©  accomplished  his 
pur|>Ofie  with  his  usual  resolution.  Soon  after  this,  Sherpur  was  besieged,  and  never 
did  MacGregor  appear  happier  in  all  his  life  than  during  those  ten  uncertain  days 
whea  we  were  awaitin;:;  the  beacon  to  be  lit  on  the  Asniai  Hille,  which  was  to  be  the 
signal  for  the  attack  on  JShcrpur,  At  such  times  as  those  a  confident  soldier  like 
MacGregor  was  indeed  a  lower  of  strength.  When  Sir  F,  Roberts  made  his  march 
from  Kabul  to  Kandahar,  MacGregor  obtained  command  of  the  3rtl  Infantry  brigade, 
and  assisted  at  the  action  of  the  18th  September,  when  Ayub  Khau^a  forces  were 
finally  dispersed.  Subsequently  he  commanded  the  Mari  field  force  and  conducted  a 
most  successful  little  carapaij-n  of  his  own  against  the  Mariis.  Fur  his  disttuguished 
services  as  Chief  of  the  Staff  tt^  Sir  F.  Roberts  and  Sir  D.  Stewart  he  was  made  c.u, 
in  1879  and  kx.d.  in  1881,  having  been  nominated  €.s.r.  in  1874  and  c.i.e.  in  1878. 
He  was  Quartermflster-Gcneral  with  the  rank  of  Major-Geueral  in  the  East  Indies 
from  1880  to  1885,  when  he  was  appointed  to  the  command  of  the  Punjab  Frontier 
Force.  He  was  the  author  of  several  workH  of  a  military  character,  besides  his  books 
uu  Khoras^an  and  Baluchistan,  To  the  end  of  his  life  he  never  oeased  to  preach 
the  doctrine  of  "  pre p.a ration,*'  aud  his  notes  of  warning  will  not  soon  die  away,  By 
hia  death  England  bos  lost  one  of  her  foremost  soldiers,  a  leader  whose  aame  was  as 
greatly  respected  as  that  of  Sir  Herbert  Macpheraon,  bis  countryman,  who  passed 
away  so  shortly  before  him*  The  loss  of  two  auch  men  at  such  a  time  is  indeed  & 
bitter  blow  for  India, 

ColoEel  Sir  J.  V,  Batemaa  Champam,  E.E.'— Colonel  Sir  John  Underwood 
Bateman  Chamixiin,  who  died  at  Han  Remo  on  the  Ist  February,  vrm  an  ofHcer  of  the 
Royal  Engineers  (Bengal),  and  son  of  Colonel  Agnew  Champain  of  the  9th  (Norfolk) 
Begiment.  At  the  period  of  bis  decease,  he  had  been  for  some  seventeen  years 
Birector-in-Chief  of  the  Government  Indo-Euroi>ean  Telegraph.  Born  in  London  on 
the  22nd  July,  1835,  he  received  his  early  education  at  Cheltenham  School,  where 
he  remained  a  pupil  from  184G  to  1849.  Entering  subsequently  the  Military 
College  at  Addiscombe,  he  soon  becjime  one  of  its  most  distinguished  cadets,  and 
eventually  j^asaed  out  head  of  his  term— a  position  he  had  held  uninterruptedly  from 
the  day  of  entrance.  His  commisaion  dates  from  the  llth  June,  18o3*  Within 
four  years  after  his  arrival  in  India,  the  Mutiny  broke  out,  and  Chnmpain*s  services 
at  that  critical  epoch  are  such  as  to  warrant  recapitulation. 

Early  on  the  12th  May,  1867,  a  sowar  rode  into  Rurki  bringing  the  news  of  the 


*  By  Mftjoi-General  Sir  Frederic  Goldsmid,  k.c,b,i. 


.  OBITUARY.  197 

oatbceak  at  Meerat.  Captain  Fraser,  commanding  the  Sappers  and  Miners  there, 
that  very  day  marched  his  regiment  to  the  scene  of  disturbance ;  and  Lieutenant 
Champain,  then  acting  for  Lieutenant  Chesney  as  Assistant  Principal  of  the 
Thomaaon  College,  with  his  Principals  approval,  volunteered,  and  was  permitted  tu 
accompany. 

On  the  16th  May,  at  Meerut,  a  large  proportion  of  these  very  Sappers  mutinied, 
and  Captain  Fraser  was  shot  dead  at  his  own  encampment.  Champain  assisted  in 
carrying  him  to  hospital,  and  the  next  day  was  appointed  adjutant  of  the  corps,  vice 
Lieutenant  Mannsell,  who  assumed  command.  Most  of  the  men  present  in  the 
lines  when  the  mutiny  took  place  ran  off  to  Delhi ;  but  from  working  parties  absent 
at  the  time,  and  a  few  individuals  who  remained  faithful  in  the  midst  of  temptation, 
a  body  of  some  300  sepoys  was  formed,  which  nucleus  was  afterwards  reinforced  from 
Uurki,  The  carbines  of  these  men  were  taken  from  them ;  but  when  ten  days 
ifterwards  General  Wilson  determined  to  march  on  Delhi,  the  native  sappers  were 
re-armed,  and  Lieutenant  Champain  testified  that  during  his  adjutancy  their  conduct 
was  most  exemplary,  nor  was  there  one  deserter  among  them  throughout  the 
campaign. 

lieutenant  Champain  was  present  at  both  actions  on  the  Hindun  river  under 
General  Wilson,  and  at  Badli-ke-Sarai  and  the  capture  of  the  heights  before  Delhi 
under  General  Barnard.  Regimental  adjutant  during  the  whole  siege,  he  further 
undertook  the  duties  of  field  and  assistant-field  engineer,  not  having  bad  probably,  for 
three  months,  one  whole  night  in  bed.  He  was  specially  thanked  in  onlers  by  General 
Barnard  for  rapidly  constructing  an  urgently  required  battery,  afterwards  designated 
*•  Champain's,*'  by  written  instructions  of  Colonel  Baird  Smith.  Never  absent  for 
one  hour  from  duty  through  sickness  or  any  other  cause,  he  was  employed  either  to 
superintend  or  assist  in  the  construction  of,  without  exception,  every  single  battery 
thrown  up  during  the  whole  siege.  On  the  13th  September  he  was  wounded,  but 
while  on  the  sick-list,  owing  to  the  number  of  Engineer  officers  incapacitated,  he 
volunteered  for  duty,  and  was  present  at  the  capture  of  the  Palace. 

Lieutenant  Maunsell's  wounds  having  necessitated  his  departure  to  the  hills. 
Lieutenant  Champain  succeeded  to  the  command  of  the  Sappers,  and  was  in  that 
position  on  the  march  to  Agra  and  seven  or  eight  minor  expeditions  in  the  vicinity, 
including  the  capture  of  Fathpur  Sikri.  He  further  commanded  a  small  force  of 
nearly  2000  men,  including  Sappers,  2l8t  Panjab  Infantry,  two  guns,  and  a  detach- 
ment of  Hodson's  Horse  and  9th  Lancers,  on  the  march  from  Agra  to  Fathgarh, 
where  he  joined  the  Commander-in-Chief  in  November  or  December  1857.  He  con- 
tinued to  command  the  Sappers,  numbering  some  500,  on  the  march  to  Cawnpore 
and  the  Alambagh,  returning  to  his  post  of  adjutant  on  the  return  of  Lieutenant 
Maunsell  in  March  1858.  He  was  present  at  the  final  capture  of  Lucknow,  twice 
acting  as  Sir  Robert  Napier's  orderly  officer,  with  Lieutenant  Elliot  Brownlow,  who 
was  killed  when  associated  with  him  in  this  duty. 

Major  Champain  was  thanked  specially  in  orders  by  Sir  Robert  Napier  for 
having,  with  Captain  Medley  and  100  sappers,  held  for  a  night  the  Shah  Najif,  an 
advanced  post  of  great  strength,  abandoned  by  eight  companies  of  the  53rd  on 
account  of  its  remoteness  from  the  army.  Assisting  to  prepare  the  plan  of  the  siege 
for  submission  to  the  Commander-in-Chief,  he  was  ordered  by  Sir  Colin  Campbell, 
after  the  capture  of  Lucknow,  to  erect  fortified  posts  for  outlying  detachments  of 
police  and  regular  infantry.  Of  these  he  completed  about  twenty.  He  was  present 
at  fourteen  or  fifteen  minor  engagements  under  Colonel  Walter  and  others,  and  was 
thanked  in  a  despatch  by  Captain  MacMullin  for  services  rendered  in  a  rather  severe 
afiair  near  Balia.  He  was  the  only  Engineer  officer  employed  at  the  capture  of 
Jagdispur,  where  probably  more  than  10,000  troops  were  engaged  under  Sir  John 


198 


OBITUARV. 


Douglas ;  and  lie  was  partictilnrly  recommendeil  by  that  officer  in  his  final  despatch. 
He  joined  in  pursiiifc  of  the  rebels  to  tbe  Kaimiir  bills,  aiid  when  matters  looked 
more  quiet,  he  was  appointed  Executive  Engineer  of  Goiidab.  Hence  be  was  trans- 
ferred to  Lnclinow,  of  wbicb  station  be  was  Executive  Enj^ioeer  till  ordered  to 
Persia  with  Major  Patrick  Stewart  in  1862  on  special  duty  connected  with  tbe 
pro|J08ed  telegraph  to  connect  India  with  England/ 

The  story  of  the  ludo-Enropean  Telegraph,  diveHte<l  of  its  **  blvie-bookislmess  " 
and  official  belongings,  h  full  of  interest  and  adventure,  and  in  it  are  no  two  drumaih 
personm  more  prominent  tlmn  Stewart  and  Champain.  Of  tbcir  maoy  brother- 
ufiicers  and  friends,  tliero  aro  doubtless  some  living  who  remember  them  when 
ttissociatetl  in  the  preliminary  oi^anisation  of  tbta  great  enterprise  :  first  in  India, 
taldng  imtruclioDs  in  Calcutta  and  making  inquiries  at  Karachi — then  in  Persia, 
travelling  upwartl  fn>ni  Busbahr  through  the  wliole  length  of  tbe  country  to  certify 
the  status — then  in  London,  at  home,  but  not  at  rest.  Here  indeed,  now  moits  than 
twenty- three  years  aj^o,  in  a  small  room  on  theground-floor  of  a  hovise  in  Lower  Bclgravc 
Street,  tbe  two  young  Engineers  might  have  been  found  at  a  table  covered  with 
papers,  deep .  in  the  consideration  of  eontracts  and  estimates,  charts  and  charter- 
parties,  plans  and  8^>ecifications,  together  witli  the  numerous  and  various  questions 
involved  in  the  vast  undertaking  committed  to  Stewarts  charge  by  the  Indian 
Government  and  Secretary  of  State  for  India.  After  some  busy  months  in  London, 
Lieutenant  Champain  left  England  ngain  fur  Persia  in  September  18G3,  tmvelling  vii 
the  Danube  and  Tiflis,  and  reaching  "J  ehran  on  the  20tb  October.  Quitting  the  Shah*s 
capital  cm  the  3rd  NovembL*r,  he  was  at  Bushahr  on  tho  17th  of  tbe  same  month.  At 
this  place  he  met  Captain  MuriJoch  Smith  and  tbe  non-commissioned  oflicera  of  tbe 
Itoyal  Engineers,  witli  whom  ho  returned  to  Tehran*  Those  acquainted  with  the  local 
geography  will  admit  the  distances  traversctl  to  be  considerable,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
character  of  tlie  country ;  and  it  is  to  be  taken  into  acenunt  that  Champain  had 
before,  in  tho  previous  year,  performed  the  jonmey  from  Tehran  to  IjOiidon,  by 
Baghdad,  Alepi^o,  and  Alexandrctta,  \\'hile  his  assistant  was  engaged  in  con- 
Btructing  the  coast-lines  in  Persia  [and  to  tho  Turco-Persian  frontier,  Stewart  had 
returned  to  ISombay  and  Karaclii,  and  embarked  from  the  latter  port  to  lay  down 
the  line  of  submarine  lelegiaph  westward. 

In  January  18G5,  when  the  cable  connecting  Karachi  with  the  little  station  at 
the  head  of  the  Persian  Gulf  had  been  for  some  months  at  work,  and  when  the 
Tm?oo-Persian  link  with  the  Euroi>eaa  system  was  within  an  ace  of  completion — 
Stewart,  worn  out  with  sickness  and  anxiety,  died  at  Constantinople*  Por  the  next 
five  years  Champain  remained  the  Inic  and  loyal  colleague  of  the  prest-nt  writer, 
ap tainted  to  succeed  his  tuiTuer  chief;  ;\nd  it  would  be  no  easy  matter  to  render 
justice  to  the  zeal  and  abiliiy  which  he  displayed  in  seeking  to  remove  the  obstacles 
which  daily  and  hourly  presented  themselves  to  successful  organisation  of  Indo- 
Europt^in  trafhc.  Not  only  was  it  nocessar}'  to  set  in  working  order  the  materials 
given  over  to  the  hands  of  Biittsh  officers,  but  also  to  remedy  the  gross  defects 
apijarent  in  the  many  sections  of  tho  long  overkud  line  outside  their  control.  To 
accomphsh  botli  these  ends  he  stoutly  and  heartily  laboured.  He  was  an  earnest 
advocate  for  securing  tlie  co-operation  of  the  late  Sir  William  Siemens,  a  satbfactory 
understanding  with  whose  Comjxiny  (the  Indo-European)  was  brought  about  mainly 
by  the  exercise  of  his  good  common-aenfle  and  judgment.  In  1870  he  himself  became 
the  sole  director  of  the  whole  Government  section^  comprising  tbe  Persian  Land,  and 
the  PersiaaGnif  Submarine  Line;  and  to  bis  careful  and  energetic  superintondenoe, 


*  The  above  outline  of  Sir  John  C  bam  pain's  Indian  services  is  obtained  from  tbe 
preaent  writer**  own  volume  of  ^Telegfaph  and  Travel*  (Mscmillan,  ISTi). 


OBITUARV.  199 

md  tbe  adminbie  amngements  of  **  the  Indo-European  Company,^  may  be  attri- 
Inted  die  marked  snecess  whidi  theoombined  OTeriaDd  Telegra{^  to  India  has  siuce 
achieTed,  and  for  idiich  it  has  loi^  been  diatingoished.  Now  that  the  inter- 
oommTuucatioQ  of  East  and  West  by  electric  wire  is  an  amompiished  ^i  of  old  date, 
and  that  the  Orerland  Line  has  been  anpplemented  by  a  Red  Sea  route,  the  widely- 
uttered  complaint  at  the  lack  of  such  adTantages— which  naturally  became  a  ^  bitter 
cry  "  during  the  In<Uan  Mutinke — is  a  comparatiTely  forgotten  incident,  and  the 
labour  which  effiscted  the  desired  object  is  regarded  by  the  multitude  as  a  mere 
mechanical  opention,  or  at  best  confounded  with  the  deposition  of  an  ordinary  ocean 
cable,  and  setting  up  posts  and  wires  in  the  lands  of  civilised  Europe.  But  the  work 
was  really  one  of  the  highest  importance  and  magnitude,  and  the  names  of  John 
Champaxn,^  Murdoch  Smith,  OliTer  St  John,  William  Henry  Pierson^  and  others,  will 
be  honourably  and  lastingly  connected  with  its  recoid. 

The  dfgaeased  officer's  last  important  outdoor  duty  was  the  submersion  of  a  new 
guttapercha  cable,  more  than  500  miles  in  length,  from  Jask  to  Bushahr — an  opera- 
tioQ  wfaidi  he  personally  superintended  in  1885,  proceeding  to  India  on  its  completion, 
and  returning  to  England  in  1886,  to  receiTe  the  well-deserved  honour  of  knighthood 
by  admianoQ  into  the  order  of  St  Michael  and  St  George.  Sixteen  years  before,  he 
had  performed  a  similar  service  in  laying  an  indiarubber  caUe  between  the  same 
two  pcnnt^  and  under  signally  difficult  circumstances.  The  steamer  bearing  him 
to  India  was  wrecked  in  the  Red  Sea  (the  cable  ship  had  already  suffered  from  a 
serious  collision  in  the  Channel) ;  and  wind  and  weather  offered  strong  but,  happily, 
ineffectual  opposition  to  the  accomplishmoit  of  the  work  itself.  There  is  no  saying 
to  what  extent  the  many  vicissitudes  he  underwent  *'  by  flood  and  field  "  contributed 
to  break; his  originally  fine  constitution  and  physique,  and  to  cause  that  fatal 
asthmatic  affection  which  painfully  characterised  his  later  days. 

Cdcnel  Pat^^an  Champain  has  been  enrolled  among  the  Fellows  of  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society  since  1874,  and  was  elected  a  member  of  its  Council  in  1883. 
His  paper  on  the  '^  Various  means  of  communication  between  Central  Persia  and  the 
Sea,^  read  at  the  Evening  Meeting  of  the  15th  January,  1883,  provoked  an  interesting 
diacusabn,  and  is  a  valuable  contribution  to  voL  v.  of  the  *  Proceedings*  (New  Series). 
later  in  the  same  year,  another  paper  of  his,  on  '*  Trade  Routes  of  Persia,"  was  read 
before  the  Society  of  Arts  and  published  in  its  JoumaL  In  1879  he  filled  the 
Presidential  Chair  of  the  Society  of  Telegraph  Engineers,  and  delivered  the  opening 
address  of  ^the  session.  His  official  reports,  as  well  as  all  his  writings,  are  lucid  and 
well  expressed,  and  had  he  been  less  chary  of  anything  like  display,  he  might  have 
become  distinguished  for  literary  power.  Let  it  be  added  that  he  was  an  artist  of 
no  mean  capacity,  as  many  of  his  well-executed  sketches  and  paintings  would 
testify. 

His  many  and  long  journeys,  his  interesting  adventures,  his  diplomatic  negotia- 
tiooa  in  Europe  and  Asia,  his  experience  of  men  and  nationalities,  would  alone  have 
sufficed  to  make  him  socially  popular ;  but  his  genial  disposition,  his  keen  apprecia- 
tion of  right  and  wrong,  his  kindliness  of  heart  and  warmth  of  attachment,  his  sense 
of  himiour,  but  extreme  oonsidemtion — these  were  Nature's  qualities — qualities  which 
he  possessed  in  an  eminent  degree,  and  which,  wherever  exercised,  could  not  fail  to 
impart  brightness  and  inspire  affection.  With  a  central  figure  such  as  this,  it  seems 
hard,  in  a  worldly  sense,  to  associate  the  gloom  of  sickness  and  death.  But  the 
picture  has  no  uncommon  features.  Man's  wishes  are  not  the  laws  of  Providence. 
"  Work  well  done  "  is  a  conclusion  in  arriving  at  which  human  testimony  has  a  certain 
value,  and  such  has  been  readily  and  richly  tendered  in  the  present  instance.    How 

*  The  name  of  ^  Bateman**  was  a  prefix  of  recent  years. 


200 


[CBITUARV. 


geoeral  haa  bcfcn  the  consenaiis  in  this  respect  may  be  inferred  from  tbe  fad  that  tlio 
Shah  of  Persia,  who  had  but  two  or  three  years  ago  left  the  path  of  stern  Oriental 
precedent  to  confer  a  sword  of  honour  on  C'hampain,  has  now  further  deviated  from 
that  path  by  the  despatch  of  a  personal  telegram  of  condolence  to  his  fntniiy. 

His  remains  were  interred  at  San  Kemo,  in  the  English  cemetery,  on  the  hill- 
side—a beautiful  spot  overhanging  the  Mediterranean  shore,  such  as  hU  fine  taste 
would  have  once  delighted  to  sketch  on  paper.  Beloved  in  his  domestic  relations,  and 
estimated  by  others  as  just  described,  what  more  may  now  Im  said  regarding  him 
in  a  brief  obituary  notice?  Beyond  the  threshold  reached,  all  else  la  too  sacred  for 
the  pen  of  tlie  writer. 

A.  W.  Moore,  C.B.* — Mr.  Adolphns  W.  Moore,  c.b.,  recently  appointed 
Politicftl  and  Secret  Secretjiry  at  the  India  Office,  died  on  Febmary  2nd,  aged 
forty-seven,  at  Monaco,  where  he  had  gone  to  recruit  his  health.  Mr.  Moore  wa* 
the  son  of  Major  John  Arthur  Moore,  some  time  a  Director  of  the  East  India 
Company,  He  was  brounrht  up  at  Harrow,  and  went  straight  from  school  into  the 
India  Office  when  about  seventeen.  In  1874,  he  joined  the  Political  Department. 
In  1875,  he  was  appointed  Assistant  Secretary,  and  during  the  absence  in  India  of 
liis  chief,  Sir  Owen  Bnrne,  from  1876  to  1878,  acted  as  Political  Secretary*  Jn  1885 
he  retired  from  the  office,  but  the  Conservatives  coming  into  fx>wer  almost  on  the 
same  day,  he  was  invited  aimultaneonaly  to  become  secretary  to  Lord  Salisbury  and  to 
Lord  Randolph  Chnrchilh  Lord  Randolph  Churchill  was  then  Secretary  of  State  for 
India,  and  Mr.  Moore  preferred  the  post  which  kept  him  in  connection  with  his  old 
work.  He  remained  that  statesman's  official  or  private  secretary,  in  or  out  of 
oiBce,  until  Lord  Randolph's  recent  resignation  of  the  Chancellorship  of  the 
Exchequer,  when  Mr,  Moore  received  the  appointment  which,  so  far  as  he  had  any 
personal  ambition  except  for  opportunities  of  useful  work,  had  no  doubt  been  the 
object  of  his  life* 

Mr.  A,  W.  Moore  had  a  vast  store  of  departmental  experience  and  information. 
But  these  are  ordinary  official  qualities  ;  and  he  was  much  more  than  an  ordinary 
official.  He  had  a  rare  faculty  of  marshalling  facts,  recognising  their  relative  im- 
portance, and  drawinj;  from  them  statesmanlike  conclusions.  These  conclusions  he 
expressed  in  t^rms  of  admirable  lucidity.  Hia  mind  had  something  of  a  judicial 
quality,  and  his  comj>asitionfi  had  on  the  reader  rather  the  effect  of  an  exhaustive 
and  impartial  sumniiDg-up,  than  of  an  advocate's  ar^mcnt  in  favour  of  the  line  of 
policy  they  set  out.  His  premature  death  may,  without  any  exaggeration,  be  said 
to  be  a  loss  to  the  nation,  as  well  as  to  his  office  and  the  Indian  Council » the  members 
of  which  folly  appreciated  his  services. 

But  it  is  chiefly  as  a  traveller  that  we  have  here  to  speak  of  Mr*  Moore,  and  it 
was  as  a  traveller  that  I  first  made  his  acquaintanoe.  In  1H67, 1  went  to  him  with 
my  plans  for  a  journey  in  the  heart  of  the  Caucasian  chain,  and  easily  persuaded 
him  to  be  one  of  ray  companions.  In  tho  following  year  we  spent  three  months 
together,  making  the  first  ascents  of  Kaxbek  and  Elbruz.  In  1H74,  Mr,  Moore 
returned  to  the  Caucasus  with  three  other  members  of  the  Alpine  Club,  In  these 
two  journeys,  both  sides  of  120  miles  of  the  snowy  chain  were  visited,  the  chain 
itself  crossed  by  many  passes  previously  unknown  to  Englishmen,  and,  as  a  conse- 
quence, intelligible  dtscripiions  of  its  i>eaks,  passes,  and  glaciers  laid  for  tho  first 
time  before  English  readers.  Mr,  Mooro  was  an  admirable  travelling  companion. 
His  energy  was  equal  to  his  endurance.     He  developed  tinder  difficulties  a  quaint 


By  Mr.  Dotiglas  W.  FrcslifieR 


REPORT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS.  201 

and  inspiriting  humour.      He  combined  a  boyish  and  playful  egotism  in  small 
things  with  a  readiness  for  serious  self-sacrifice  when  he  thought  it  called  for. 

His  official  duties  naturally  stood  in  the  way  of  his  indulgence  in  distant  travel. 
But  twenty  years  ago  his  name  was  familiar  as  one  of  the  leaders  of  the  Alpine  Club 
in  the  exploration  of  the  part  of  Europe  above  the  snow-level.  He  was  one  of  the 
first  climbers  of  the  Pointe  des  l^rins,  the  highest  peak  of  the  Dauphin^  Alps,  of 
Piz  Roseg  in  the  Ober  Eogadin,  of  the  Gabelhom  near  Zermatt.  He  had  a  share  in 
opening  many  of  the  now  famous  glacier  passes  of  the  High  Alps,  the  Sesia  Joch, 
the  Morning  Pass,  the  Jungfran  Joch,  the  Br^che  de  la  Meije.  He  paid  a  great  deal 
of  court  to  Mont  Blanc  He  forced  a  new  way  up  it  by  the  Brenva  Glacier,  he 
walked  up  it  with  only  one  guide,  he  walked  over  it  from  Courmayeur  to  Chamonix 
within  the  twenty-four  hours.  There  was  frequently  something  original  and 
audacious  about  his  Alpine  feats.  With  his  constant  companion  Mr.  Horace  Walker, 
h«  invented  winter  mountaineering,  a  recreation  which  has  led  to  the  discovery  of 
some  curious  and  unlocked  for  meteorological  facts.  He  would  go  off  for  Christmas 
to  the  Dolomites  or  to  Dauphin^.  Of  late  years  his  favourite  holiday  was  a  fort- 
night's walk  over  Alpine  passes  and  through  Italian  valleys  in  October,  a  season  he 
rightly  maintained  to  be  far  more  beautiful  than  midsummer.  He  loved  scenery 
as  much  as  climbing,  and  would  descant  with  equal  emphasis  on  the  glories  of  Mont 
Blanc  or  of  Yal  Onsernone,  one  of  the  exquisite  glens  that  open  on  Lago  Maggiore 
near  Locarno. 

Mr.  Moore  never  published  any  volume.  Scattered  papers  by  him,  all  remark- 
able for  clear  and  forcible  description,  may  be  found  in  the  earlier  volumes  of  the 
'Alpine  Journal.*  For  various  reasons  he  left  his  Caucasian  journeys  to  others 
to  describe.^  But  his  friends  possess,  and  value  highly,  a  privately  printed  volume, 
'The  Alps  in  1864,'  which  contains  a  spirited  and  entertaining  narrative  of  his 
most  successful  and  adventurous  alpine  campaign,  carried  out  in  company  with 
Messrs.  Whymper  and  Walker.  For  three  years  he  acted  as  Hon,  Secretary  of  the 
Alpine  Club,  and  had  only  a  few  weeks  ago  declined  its  Presidency.  One  of  the  old 
mottoes  of  that  body  was 

**  Jaoundnm  vertice  mentis 
Yesci  aur&  ffithereA  et  dextram  conjangero  dextrsQ.*' 

There  are  many  who  will  miss,  both  in  the  mountains  and  at  home,  the  hearty 
grasp  of  the  old  friend  and  comrade  who  has  so  suddenly  and  so  prematurely  been 
taken  from  us. 


REPOET  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS,  SESSION  1886-7. 

Fifth  Meeting,  January  Slat,  1887. — General   R.  Strachey,  r.e.,  f.r.s., 
Vice-President,  in  the  Chair. 

Elections.  —  Frederic  Gorell  Barnes,  Esq, ;  liev.  Canon  Walter  Beck ;  B, 
BiekneU,  Esq. ;  Charles  Ernest  Clarke,  Esq. ;  Thomas  Cecil  Curwen,  Esq, ;  Lieut. 
Arthur  Moftyn  Field,  b.n.  ;  Walter  Bernard  Hamilton,  Esq.,  b.a.  ;  John  Hender- 
son, Esq,;  MaJor-OeneraZ  H,  Hyde,n,E,;  George  Harvey  Johnston,  Esq,;  James 

Wilson  Johnston,  Esq, ;  Frank  J,  Leslie,  Esq. ;  Bev,  Daniel  Orenville  Lewis ; 
Pn^essor  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson  Mac  Ivor  ;    Capt,  Htnry  St,  Patrick  Maxvjell, 

(Beng.  Staflf  Corps) ;  Charles  Griffith  Nuttall,  Esq, ;  Kelson  Provoer,  Esq,,  m.a.  ; 


•  See  FresWIeld's « Central  Caucasus,'  1869,  and  Grove's  •  Frosty  Caucasus,*  1875, 


PROt^EEDlNGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 

Rev,  WiUiam  Jos.  SmttA;  CapL  tht^  Uon.  M.   G.  Talhot,  r,e.  ;  Edwd,    Wcdla^, 
E^q,y  M.D, ;  Eohcrt  Augustus  Warren^  Estj. ;  J,  Beau^hamp  Waimn^  Esq. 

Peesen'tatioxs.— IFiY^mm  Martin^  Esq. ;  A,  JI,  Burtmif  Esq, ;  D,  M»  Hobertsan 
Maedonaldf  Esq. 

The  Emtk  Pasha  Belief  Expedition. 

At  the  comiT^encemcDt  of  tlie  meetmg  tlie  Clmirman  announced  tliat  ft  letter  bad 
Iwen  Teceivprl  from  Mr.  W,  JIackinnon,  President  of  the  Managing  Committee  of 
the  Emia  Pfiiiba  Helief  Expedition,  tlianking  the  Council  uf  the  Society  for  the  con- 
tribution of  1000/.  Ihey  had  made  to  the  funds  of  the.  Expedition,  and  saying  how 
greatly  the  Comraitteo  appreciated  the  coiirteay  and  lil)orality  of  tlie  Society  in  this 
matter.  He  added  that  it  was  understood  that  all  new  geographical  information 
which  miglit  be  obtained  by  Mr.  Stanley  during  the  progress  of  the  expedition 
towards  Emin  Pashas  headquarters,  and  on  the  journey  back,  should  be  com- 
municated to  the  Society  immediately  on  receipt^  for  publication  V>y  them. 

The  subject  of  the  evening  was  an  address  by  IL  J,  Mackinder,  Esq.^  b. 
(Oxford),  on  the  Scope  and  Methods  of  Geography. 

The  address  was  illaatrated  by  diagrams  and  typical  geographical  views  projected 
on  a  Bcreen  by  means  of  the  dioptric  lentern  and  lime  light.  At  its  close  the 
nhairman  announced  that  the  discussion  on  the  address  was  adjourned  to  the  next 
meeting,  February  14th. 

VidCf  anU^  address  and  disciiBsion,  p.  141. 


I 


SiXtJi  Meetiuff^  Fehrimri/  14ili,  lf!87*— General  E.  Stkachey,  r,e.,  f, 
Yice-President,  in  the  Chair. 

Elections — Oeorge  E.  Aslcwith^  Esq,;  WiUiam  Alphetts  Jliggs,  Esq.;  Ba^ 
Lindsay^  Esq, ;  J,  W.  Lindt,  Esq. ;  James  Pankhurst,  Esq. ;   Capt.  W»  C,  Speed'^' 
i'ng;  Whitworth  WalliStEsq.;  Henry  Milner   Whiie^  E$q,^  m.a.  j  Frederick   Wf 
WHkotkSf  Esq.f  j,p. ;  Samvd  JViUiammmt  Esq, 

Pre,se>'tations.— T.  C.  Curwen,  ET>q. ;  RfP,  Wm.  J,  Smtth, 
The  evening  was  occupied  by  the  adjourned  discussion  on  Mr.  H.  J,  Mackinder's 
adtlreM  on  "  The  Scope  and  Methods  of  Geography.**    Antef  p.  160. 


PKOCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


4 


GeograpMcal  Society  of  Paris.— January  7th,  1887 ;  M.  A.  Gebmafs  in  the 
Chair.— The  Minister  of  Public  Instruction  informed  the  Society  that  the  Govern- 
roent  had  decided  to  coatribnte  the  mm  of  241.  (GOO  francs)  towards  defraying  the 
cost  of  the  publication  of  the  maps  accompauyiDg  M.  Dutreuil  de  Rhina'  work  on 
Thibet,  The  General  Secretary  alluded  to  the  great  geographical  imi>ortance  of 
this  work.*— JL  R.  du  Caillaud  forwarded  a  copy  of  the  '  Missions  Catholiques ' 
(12th  Nov.  1886),  containing  an  excellent  map,  by  the  late  M,  Lombard,  of  the 
Foreign  Missions,  of  the  course  of  the  Lower  Mekong. — A  communication  from 
M,  Hangsen  Blangsted  was  read,  giving  some  notes  from  a  paper  reatl  by  M. 
Feddersen  before  the  Geographical  Society  of  Copenhagen  upon  bis  journey 
to  Iceland, — The  Secretary  read  a  letter  from  Whl,  Capus  and  Bonvalot,  dated 
6th  Sept,  from  Samarcand. — Dr.  Vaume  sent  a  report  of  his  journey  from  Keshd  to 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOaETIES.  203 

Hamadan.^-Tbo  series  of  photographic  views  of  the  region  of  Lake  Eelbiah  (Tonis) 
preseDted  at  a  recent  meeting,  was  the  subject  of  a  communication  by  Dr.  Bouire, 
whose  explorations  they  illustrated.  He  gave  some  explanatory  notes  of  interest  on 
this  little  known  district.  With  reference  to  the  exact  locale  of  the  ancient  Lake 
Triton,  M.  A.  du  Paty  de  Clam  transmitted  an  extract  from  a  work  to  be  published 
shortly,  in  which  he  opposes  9r.  Rouire's  theory. — M.  K.  AUain  took  occasion  to 
refer  at  some  length  to  the  journey  accomplished  some  time  ago  by  M.  Foureau  from 
Uargla  (Algerian  Sahara)  to  the  district  of  El  Erg,  by  a  route  not  previously 
traversed  by  any  European.  The  traveller  reached  a  point  situated  in  Sl°  10'  N.  lat. 
and  3**  15'  long.  E.  Everywhere  along  the  route  he  came  across  vestiges  of  an  ancient 
civilisation  and  former  human  habitations.  At  intervals  natural  springs  were  dis- 
covered and  artificial  wells.  In  the  opinion  of  M.  Foureau  the  route  was  well  adapted 
for  a  railway. — ^The  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs  had  received  from  the  French  Consul 
at  Buenos  Ayres,  a  letter  announcing  the  despatch  by  the  Argentine  (Government  of  a 
mission  to  explore  the  territory  of  Patagonia. — The  Society  received  from  M.  Comejo 
a  memoir  by  Dr.  J.  F.  Velarde,  giving  the  substance  of  a  paper  read  by  him  before  the 
Geographical  Society  of  Kio  Janeiro,  on  the  hydrography  of  some  of  the  least  ktown 
parts  of  Bolivia. — ^The  Chairman  announced  that  M.  J.  Martin,  a  French  traveller 
who  has  spent  five  years  in  traversing  Eastern  Siberia,  was  present  at  the  meeting. 
Having  conducted  some  investigations  for  a  largo  Russian  Mining  Company, 
M.  Martin  had  proceeded  to  visit  some  of  the  unexplored  portions  of  Siberia. 
Skirting  the  south-west  comer  of  Lake  Baikal,  he  travelled  northwards  to  the  60th 
parallel ;  then  turning  south,  he  descended  the  Amur  and  traversed  Mongolia  and 
Manchuria.  He  crossed  the  Trans- Baikal  region  twice.  The  Chairman  stated  that 
the  topographical  service  of  the  Russian  stafif  were  about  to  publish  the  traveller's 
admirable  itineraries.  M.  Martin,  at  the  invitation  of  M.  Germain,  briefly  addressed 
the  meeting  and  promised  to  give  an  account  of  his  journey  at  an  early  meeting  of 
the  Society. — In  conclusion  M.  W.  Ruber  read  a  paper  on  the  piercing  of  the 
Siraplon,  M.  Huber  was  one  of  the  committee  of  experts  charged  to  report  upon  this 
enterprise,  and  was  able  therefore  to  give  very  precise  and  interesting  information. 
ITie  Committee  had  pronounced  in  favour  of  a  tunnel  with  double  lines,  which,  with 
a  length  of  about  11}  miles,  would  take  six  years  to  bore,  working  at  the  rate  of  about 
twelve  feet  a  day.  The  advantages  of  the  Simplou  route,  as  compared  with  that  of 
the  St  Gothard  and  Mont  Cenis,  were  then  dwelt  on  by  M.  Ruber.  A  discussion 
followed  the  paper,  in  which  the  Chairman  and  others  took  part. 

January  21st,  1887 :  M.  Jannsen,  of  the  Institute,  in  the  Chair. — The 

Chairman  announced  that  the  Bureau  of  the  Central  Commission  bad  been  recon- 
structed for  the  year  1887,  as  follows: — President,  M.  Janssen,  of  the  Institute 
(Academy  of  Sciences) ;  Vice-Presidents,  MM.  Dr.  Ramy  and  W.  Huber ;  General 
Secretary,  M.  Maunoir ;  Assistant-Secretary,  M.  J.  Giraud. — M.  G.  Marcel  called 
attention  to  several  ancient  maps  in  the  library  of  Arcachon,  and  suggested  that  the 
Society  should  ask  the  Minister  of  Public  Instruction  to  have  a  general  inventory 
prepared  of  all  documents  of  this  description  in  the  possession  of  the  various  public 
libraries  of  the  kingdom. — ^The  Secretary  read  a  letter  received  by  the  Commercial 
Geographical  Society  of  Madrid  from  M.  Julio  C.  Baviera,  an  ofiicer  in  the  Spanish 
navy,  giving  an  account  of  his  explorations  in  Western  Sahara  in  connection  with 
the  mission  with  which  he  was  charged  by  that  Society.  Re  started  from  Madrid 
on  1st  April,  1886,  accompanied  by  Don  Francisco  Quiroga,  professor  of  Natural 
History,  and  Don  Felipe  Rizzo,  as  interpreter.  In  the  course  of  his  travels  he 
traversed  the  territories  of  Ed-Dajla,  Guerguer,  Aatf,  Ar-Rak,  An-Hanfrit,  Tisnik, 
the  plateau  of  Tivis,  Sriyik,  Teninlek,  lyil,  and  Ansert.  He  explored  several  hun- 
dred miles  of  hitherto  unknown  country,  a  large  portion  of  which  he  surveyed. 


204 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


Dr,  Quiroga  waa  able  to  make  valuable  notes  on  the  meteorology,  geology >  flora,  ^'c*, 
of  the  rpgion.  The  rigour  of  the  climate,  the  hostility  and  fanaticism  of  the  natives, 
made  travelling  extremely  hazardous.  The  expedition  returned  to  Spain  on 
16th  August.— The  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs  communicated  a  report  from 
H.  ITaffray,  French  Consul  at  Zanzibar,  on  the  explorations  of  Dr.  Junker,  Ac- 
eording  to  this  report,  which  does  not  enter  into  detafis,  the  most  important  diacovery 
made  by  the  traveller  in  his  seven  years'  travels  is  in  coEiiection  with  the  Welle  or 
Makua,  Br.  Junker  believes  that  the  opinion  hitherto  generally  accepted  that  the 
Welle,  under  the  name  of  the  Aruwimi,  ia  a  tributary  of  the  Congo,  is  errtmeoui?. 
After  the  bend  which  the  Welle  makes  in  Monbuttn-land  in  about  4**  N*  lat.  antl 
27*^  E,  long.,  the  river,  Uifitead  of  deacending  to  the  south  to  rejoin  the  Congo  in 
2PE.  long,  and  1*^  N,  lat,,  tuma  ngain  to  the  north.  Tiie  traveller  encountered  the 
river  between  5*^  and  €°  north  and  20*^  and  22<*  east,  and  conjectures  that  It  runs 
north  into  Lake  Chad,  |>ossibly  under  the  name  of  the  Shari.  He  is  of  opinion  that 
the  Nepoko,  lying  much  more  souths  which  takes  its  rise  among  the  mountains  weat 
of  Albert  Nyanza,  is  really  an  affluent  of  the  Congo.  Ihe  Bokomandi  in  the  south, 
and  the  Uerro  in  the  north,  are  tributaries  of  the  Welle.  The  former  riaes  among 
the  same  mountains  as  the  Nepoko.  The  result  of  Dr,  Junker*a  discoveries  and  hypo- 
theses would  be  to  fix  the  limit  of  the  Congo  basin  much  more  to  the  south.  With 
regard  to  the  navigability  of  tlie  Welle,  the  traveller  states  that  in  Monbuttn-land, 
tbe  river  is  navigable  for  a  long  distance,  but  in  the  vicinity  of  its  confluence  with 
the  Uerre  he  found  some  rapids^  and  is  led  to  the  conclusion  that  there  are  others. 
He  devoted  three  yeara  to  tlio  exploration  of  this  region.— A  letter  was  read  from 
M.  Vofision,  French  Vice-Conaul  at  Philadelpiiia,  giving  an  account  of  hi«  ac- 
quaintanceship with  Emin  Bey  at  Khartum  in  1882,  where  the  latter  was  staying 
on  a  visit.  M.  Vossiou  offered  in  his  li^tter  (dated  5th  January,  1887)  to  lead 
a  relief  party  from  the  east  coast,  if  Stanley  did  not  take  the  initiative.^M, 
Cluaffanjon,  in  a  letter  dated  20lh  Oct.,  1886,  from  San  Fernando  de  Atabapc, 
stated  that  he  was  or^nising  his  expedition  for  immediate  departure  t<>  explore  the 
sources  of  the  Orinoco.  He  had  received  great  assistance  from  the  Governor  pro 
/em.,  and  also  from  M.  MiralieL  He  had  discovered  some  very  curious  funeral  urns, 
differing  frtmi  those  found  by  Dr.  Crevaux.  He  hoped  to  return  to  San  Fernando 
about  the  1st  January,  1887. — M.  Gasassut,  the  inventor  of  an  apparatus  called  the 
**  Cosmograpbe/'  lor  facilitating  the  teaching  of  cosmography,  gave  a  deFcript^ion  of 
ids  ingenious  invention. —The  growth  of  tiie  i>opulation  of  France,  as  compared  with 
that  of  European  countries,  was  the  subject  of  a  paper  by  Dr.  A.  Chirvin,  The 
first  proper  census  was  in  1801,  when  the  population  waa  27,349^003.  The  census 
of  May  last  ffhows  38,218,903  iuhabitiinta.  The  annual  increase  of  population 
shown  by  the  chief  countries  of  Europe  was  stated  to  be  as  follows  i — ^Greece,  12 
per  1000  inhabitants;  Holland  and  Denmark,  10;  England,  9;  Germany  and 
Belgium,  8 ;  Austria,  Sweden,  ]SJorway»  Portugal,  and  I  taly,  7 ;  Spain,  3,  and 
France  only  2  per  1000.  The  author  also  reviewed  the  various  movements  of  the 
population.  In  conclusion  he  stated  that,  although  the  mortality  of  France  wa.s 
one  of  the  lowest  in  Euroi^,  yet  ita  record  of  births  was  the  lowest  of  all,  notwilli- 
atanding  numerous  marriages* 


(    205    ) 

NEW  QBOGKAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 

(By  J.  SooTT  BLeltie,  Librarian  R.G.S,) 

EUROPE. 
Bartholomew,  John. — Gkizettegr  of  the  British  Isles,  [Statistical  and  Topogm* 

phical.    Edinburgh,  A.  &  C.  Black,  1887 :  imp.  8yo.,  pp.  [yilL]  and  912.    Price 

36s.    [ProBented  by  Mr.  Bartholomew.] 

A  leading  feature  of  this  well-printed  gazetteer  is  the  number  of  places 
which  it  contains.  It  answers  with  brevity  the  questions  "  Where  is  it  ?  umI 
**  What  of  it  ?  "  with  regard  to  most  places  that  have  names  in  these  islands, 
and  will  therefore  be  useful  as  a  handy  reference-book ;  those  who  require 
further  information  must  go  to  more  detailed  works.  So  far  as  we  have  tested 
it  the  work  is  wonderftdly  accurate,  and  as  ftdl  as  it  professes  to  be ;  but  it  is 
di£Scult,  unless  by  revision  on  the  spot,  to  obtain  the  latest  trustworthy  in- 
formation. Thus  the  leading  industry  in  Gainsborough,  the  manufiM^ture  of 
agricultural  implements,  is  not  mentioned,  and  the  canals  connecting  it  with 
the  Trent  are  now  of  very  little  importance.  The  newly-printed  maps  which 
are  appended,  embody  a  variety  of  statistical  information,  though  here,  as  else- 
where when  distinct  tints  of  colour  are  used  to  indicate  gradations  of  one 
phenomenon,  it  is  difficult  to  find  a  method  that  is  not  liable  to  mislead  the 
unwary. 

Egli,  [Dr.]  J.  J.— Die  Schweiz.  Leipzig,  Freytag,  1886 :  8vo.,  pp.  viiL  and  210. 
(Dulau.) 

This  is  a  useful  and  well-arranged  summary  of  geographical  and  statistical 
information  on  Switzerland,  by  ute  well-known  Swiss  geographer,  Professor 
EglL    It  has  a  number  of  illustrations,  but  no  map. 

Kettle,  W.  £.— A  few  Notes  on  the  Island  of  St.  Michael,  Azores.     [1887.] 

12mo.,  pp.  16,  map  and  plan.    [Presented  by  the  Author.] 
— • A  Beport  on  the  Artificial  Harbour  of  Ponta  Delgada,  St  Michael's,  Azores 

Islands,  from  Observations  made  during  a  visit  to  the  same,  November-December, 

1886.     London,  B.  H.  Laurie,  1887 :  870.,  pp.  12,  maps  and  plans.     [Presented 

by  the  Author.] 

Feacoek,  B.  B.— Original  Vocabularies  of  Five  West  Caucasian  Languages.  [From 
the  '  Journal  of  the  Boyal  Asiatic  Society  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,' voL  xix.. 
Part  1.]    [1887] :  8vo.,  pp.  18.    [Presented  by  B.  N.  Gust,  Esq.] 

White,  [Lieut-CoL]  T.  PiUdngton  [E.E.]— The  Ordnance  Survey  of  the 
United  Kingdom.  Edinburgh,  Blackwood,  1886 :  8vo.,  pp.  x.  and  174.  Price  5ff. 
[Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

Colonel  White's  object  in  this  instructive  little  volume  has  been  to  convey 
to  the  general  reader  an  intelligible  idea  of  the  National  Survey,  without 
entering  more  than  is  necessary  into  technical  details.  The  book  is  intended 
to  be  a  short  popular  account  of  what  might  at  first  seem  a  dry  scientific 
subject  Colonel  White  has  succeeded  in  writing  an  account  of  a  great  under- 
taking that  any  ordinary  reader  should  find  it  easy  to  understand.  Beginning 
with  the  early  attempts  of  General  Watson  and  Boy  in  the  middle  of  last 
century  in  the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  Colonel  White  traces  the  progress  of  the 
great  work  down  to  the  present  day,  describing  the  various  methods  used,  Uie 
various  improvements  intioduced,  the  present  position,  and  the  future  of  the 
Survey. 

ASL^ 

Beqamin,  S.  6.  W- — Persia  and  the  Persians.  Londun,  Murray,  1887:  8vo., 
pp.  xvii.  and  507.    Price  24». 

Mr.  Benjamin  was  the  first  representative  of  the  United  States  sent  to 
Persia,  where  he  resided  from  1883  to  1886.  He  had  many  opportunities  of 
No.  m.— Maboh  1887.]  q 


20G 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 


seeing  court  life,  and  the  country  around  the  capital  and  in  the  north  of  Persia.  ] 
IliB  doscription  of  the  roj^ion  between  the  Caspian  and  Telieran  is  clear  and 
ilctallcd,  and  even  more  so  his  account  of  Tuhemn.  So  far  as  his  own  observa- 
tions went,  they  are  of  oHgiual  value.  Mr.  Benjamin  has,  moreover,  taken  the 
troiiblo  to  bring  together  a  good  deal  of  tniBtworthy  information  alx)iit  the 
country  generally.  Ho  hfis  chapters  on  the  physical  aspects  of  Persia,  nn  its 
races,  on  arts  and  religion,  on  its  resources,  products^  and  trade,  and  on  the 
Ix)Utical  Bitnation,  The  book  is  interestingly  written  and  richly  illustrated, 
iind  will  he  found  useful  to  any  one  desirous  of  acquiring  Bomo  general  iufonna-  fl 


tion  on  Persia,  in  short  sjiace.    There  is  no  map  in  the  book. 

Smeaton,  Donald  Mackenzie. — The  Loyal  Karens  of  Bnmoa*  London,  Kcgan 
Paul  &  Co.,  1887:  cr.  Hvo.,  pp.  204.  Price  is.  M.  presented  by  tb© 
PuhlishereJ 

An  interesting  sketch  of  the  Karona,  embracing  their  Origin,  Language, 
Customs,  Agricnlture,  Folk-lore,  &c.  j  compiled  from  the  Author*s  observations 
during  his  bve  years*  residence  in  Burma,  from  1879  to  1884. 

Yat6,  [Lieutenant]  A*  C- — England  and  Bussia  Face  to  Face  In  Asia.  Travels 
with  iho  Afghan  Boundary  Commission,  Edinburgh,  Blackwood,  1887:  8vo., 
pj\  viii*  and  481.     Price  21s. 

Lienteniuit  Yate  acted  aa  corresixindent  to  an  English  and  an  Indian  paper 
with  the  Afghan  Boundary  Commission  of  1884-5.  His  ojmmunlcatjoiss, 
with  additions,  he  has  reproduced  in  the  present  volume,  lie  has  wisely  allowed 
these  to  remain  cjiisentially  aa  they  were  originally  written ;  had  they  been  recast, 
Ibcy  would  almost  certainly  have  lost  the  freshness  and  vividness  which  fonn 
unc  of  their  most  attractive  features.  The  book  may  be  taken  as  a  provimooal 
and  unoflicial  narrative  of  the  doinfjs  of  the  Commission,  and  tlie  events  connected 
therewith.  Most  of  the  route  of  the  Commission  in  Afglmnistin^  na  we  know,  was 
tbrougli  territories,  ahnotit,  if  not  altojzether  unknown,  and  therefore  Lieutenant 
Yate*ii  notefl  of  the  country  through  which  he  passed  arc  of  some  value,  such, 
for  example,  as  the  considerable  section  describing  the  journey  from  the  Helmund 
to  Herat  Among  the  illustrations  is  a  fme  one  of  the  ZulSkar  Pass.  The 
rough  sketch-map  on  the  scale  of  32  miles  to  an  inch  will  prove  useful. 

AFRICA/ 

[Cape  of  Good  Hope.]— Blue-Book  for  the  Colony  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 
1S85.     Cape  Town,  W,  A,  Bichards  &  Sons,  188G  :  folio,  pp.  516. 

Feilden,  Eliza  WMgham-^My  African  Home;  or,  Bush  Life  in  Xatal  when  a 
Young  Colony  [1852-7],  London,  Samp«on  Low  &  Co.,  1887 :  cr.  8vo.,  pp,  364, 
illustrations.     Price  7«.  Gcf,     [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

Consists  of  a  series  of  letters,  together  with  aelectiona  from  the  author*s 
journal,  written  thirty  years  ago  during  five  years  of  active  bush  life  in  NataL 

Playfair,  [Sir]  E.  Lambert  [K.C.M.G.].— Handbook  for  Travellers  rn  Algeria 
and  Tunis.  Third  edition,  revised  and  greatly  augmented.  London,  Murray, 
1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  viii,  and  344,    Price  10«, 

It  is  eight  years  since  the  previous  edition  of  Sir  Lambert  Playfair's  well- 
known  handbook  was  published,  and  great  changes  have  taken  place  since  then 
both  in  Algeria  and  Tunis.  Both  countries  are  much  better  known  now  than 
then,  Sir  Lambert  himself  having  done  much  for  their  eiploration.  The  sis^e  of 
the  volume  has  been  increased  by  some  forty  page^,  and  throughout  important 
changes  and  additions  have  been  made,  bringing  the  guide  up  to  the  latest  date. 
The  map  of  Algeria  has  been  much  improved,  and  a  map  of  Tunis  and  other 
mB\m  and  plans  added ;  though  we  venture  to  think  more  might  have  b«eii 
given  with  advantage.  As  the  Consulates  of  Algeria  and  Tunis  were  among 
the  first  establislied  by  England,  Sir  Lambert  has  added  an  interesting  list  of 
the  incumbents  of  these  important  posts  from  John  Typton,  1580,  down  to  tlio 
present  day 


I 


XEV  G£0GE1PH1CAL  PTBUCATIOXS.  207 

AMERICA. 

sidCctaciIHatoryc/ Aiaerxaw  Edited  bj  Jxatin  Wni^x. 
Td.  rr.  FsBBca  Fipimsft^n  ssd  SeciLoneats  in  yortii  Amfriea,  a&d  tbcae  </ 
&  Pj.!»iiUMB,  Daises,  ssd  Sv^des,  15<y>-170O.  Loodxi,  Sgsipaan  Lenr  4r  Ojw 
IJEK:  ins.  s«q^  ^^  ix.  acd  ttt,  acd  516u    Price  3Qk. 

Ix  w€llait  wem.  ant  ^s  aev  Ttifczxae  of  tois  iapviaBS  Ma/Stfotakis^  desk 
vick  UK  ^  las  isas  lammaig  penods  of  Xonk  Aaenean  rTjjantkjg,  sad 
«DB  «fr  v:sk  JK  isoK  vcft^  of  ciKaal  CHBTi,  Bs^  aoi  iXlattBataoas  a«  a  tbe 
csK  4C  me  maeiiiMt  w^ma>,  Ccnaeml,  TcRiiaai&,  Gonez,  a&d  T^ewt  se 
jeskk  v^ck  t5  Mr.  Gozzst  D^ssb;  widle  sbe  edasor  iiddiS  a  kw  MCboK  €&  Mi^a 
if  :ae  Shmo.  C^sK  of  X<zm  As&Bia,  ISOO-lSSSy  T«j  jE^^ 
jtTjr  ingMmiL.  Of  came  n-miiMapT»He  tgmot  bj  oeroBBd  tock  to  Jac^aei  Cticr 
;^Er.  I^  B.  F.  Dft  Gma^  aaid  C^aBTX^BFf  (Ser.  EL  F.  Sa&egi),  mxOka  hag^ 
mritn  m,  Cgaagagcj,  W  sae  eoioc;  ccn^  i^yiW  ^  Dr.  iKa  Cxsu  s 
rhaqoTL  Acnos  s  seuEii  as  ssse  iBDe:^  ^  Mr.  C&aek»  C  ^"^^,  sbd  i^ 
miBi»gTt  «f  i3e  GsBS  LtfiEs  if  lam  Ber.  E.'D.  Xcl^  T1«  fGot  isMsmil  n 
su  caagaer  iau^  vi^  Jioes,  Mjp^jetae^  La  SLjt,  Txiitec  T^^^^^ii^  ^gd  La 
^mTTT  Oastsr  TL  s  ieTimd  i&  lae  •Jsssi,  Beoujaeu;  «sd  i&e  T'y^^^aaM^ 
15  It:.  JL  <S.  5onL  JOit  ;3e  «&sr  it»  &  »aiL  seeaciL  ol  lae  Jcbbs  s£Eidei». 
^  ■'^■Hj*^^  TEL  Mr.  Gsfx^  Sfagm^*^  oekiis  ■ak  FraEOeaae  laii  sai  kaxei^  ^n** 
;ae  «czxxr  va.  Bsiucik^  jciua  aa«i  dan  <f  T2e  I6ck  s&d  ITsk  ^enssn^ 
a&L  Yzk  3iflfK  It  lae  17a.  ■^'^'-^''^  susM^Jiiz  CMOtat,  C&a^ccr  VIIL,  W  Mr« 
llnrainif  F^suv.  aas  of  :sus  I>c3sn.  oz.  3i^:cik  ^TnwniP!*^  a^^  C^opcer  rr  £<r 
Mi.  J.  £.  ^flm,  ^  ia«sr  ZmHtaea  -ol  lae  LtdsRvasK;.  One  5aeasst  ^J  ^m  TUimut 
12  ae  poBES  ^ne  3  SL  hDBFAaesaoL  U  lb  fags  l^r 

.  IL  '93K3.  ilS   ffiiTVS   IFISL  HSOBL   §k^  MUt   'rSMSm'JtiilS^  ISUt    TTT^4J'Hn-y 

F  v^oEa.  "UA  gff  ^!'jgiraaL  dtacaesKTScaBS  ^  ^e  S»irsL  Asienoa  ^snof- 

•jTOrTTg,  i»  nmntatrnty  "^  ks  his  •CBLy  it  «rTi»"ftrr-Ei>  jusbbsk  ;  tjtfj  sxt  -if  tjtt 

las  CEBOK  iat  %  s^uc 
,  ^aie  nxI'T  TrSywifc      I  TTwi^inio  'aat  laa*^ 

(iSDiEH  -^eoT  |MC  wfo^  mtses 

.  OBiQiaguL  lit  aor  ioB  «BBgr  lac  »  \ac^9t 

\  miosssme  i^  isk:  leveat  sxcasaidiL  2kie» 

^fliier  tua.  Hua  m  ik-  aasmxu:  Sir  ^^ii»  so- 

*'€£  "VnciL  cnBianrnn  'juem  ma  juaj  'njcuj'  JZiC^ 

IhBtaeft  osbbl  it  «  if  ^lac  yfrmwiae  ol  itt  K»-4«BnC 

i»  suns^  BiL  -^ler  Tinrnnr  if  :aer  aad,  m  ^jr^ed.  jsol 

rr  tw  OBMenL,     Ji  m  %  mid.  -wruxR 

ly  IsL  3im  -vcBCx.  "w'jiiap  if  -2e  TBHKaifT  'aoc  ss^^-mnrr  j^toft^ 


1ML  JL  maea,  m 
laaB  BIS  iiflciSK^sair- 
;.if  Sicii.  JauzrcL  jl  if  uL  'SU:  ^  Trangn»"'^  sumziecaLsaoc  jexrnrniUL 
jL^i&dxnisam  n  laii  I3SK  l^^tCAL^JBuaL  ^ ':aiEL  $!«!»  m.  m  uoir^  oBaiL 
juw^  -iie  flsziis&sxx:  if  ^ia  jbul  if  l^unnem^  uul  m  suuosuusc  tt^psii^mcs]^ 
jBpit  aosL  TMBgfflj  teaenmsas.  11;^  3s  ystgriHimisk  acussaxR.  'vsj  ^amdiii^ 
i^LOB&mix^  ^la^  iir  &.  ^vsj  argf  acaua.  11:  Us  qintnffnn  iiiss^  m  trzim^  uuje  n. 
iie  inBR.  okhc  li  JB  >bii^  magL  jl  a  «■&  if  iMm,iiiK»  rf  -ti^  ^gac  ibssik 
oc  He^  loBE^  MiuiuuBL.    £  ji  gquBg  "M:  ae  •*•  J»gp  »jgi^ijuay  *  aam  iiegm. 


NEW  GEOCtEAPHlCAl  PUBLICATIONS. 


[BtieilO&  Ayres,] — Ministcre  do  GouvQmemeQt*  Bureau  de  Statistiquo  g^aeralc. 

Anuuaire  Statistique  de  la  Province  do  Buenos- Ayres.      Vnh]i6  sous  la  directiua 

du    Docteur   ]5mile   R.   Goni^  Directcur  da  Bureau  de    Statistique    G^neralc. 

Cinquieme  Anc^e — 1885.     Buenos- AyreSj  1880:  large  8?o»,  pp.  xlv.  aud  4tiO, 

inap«i,  plate,  plan.    [Presented  by  Dr.  EmiLio  B.  Com.] 
Oanada-'-Goologiail  and  Natural  History  Survey  of  Canada.    Alfred  R.  C.  Selwyn, 

LL.D,,  i<'.B.s,,  Director.     Aunual   Report  (new  Berica),  vol*  i.,  1H85*     Maps  to 

accompany    report,    in    separate    cover,    Montreal,    Dawson    Brothers,    1880. 

[Presented  by  the  Director  J 

This  volume  deala  witli  the  surveys  of  1884  and  1885,  chiefly  in  Britisih 
Columbia  and  the  North-wcat  Territory,  Ontario,  Quebec,  Hudson's  Bay  aud 
Strait,  New  Brunswick,  and  Nova  Scotia.  Besides  the  specially  geological  work, 
the  volume  contains  a  good  deal  which  will  be  found  of  value  to  the  geographer. 
We  may  specially  mention  Mr,  G,  M»  Daw8Du*ij  preliminary  report  on  the 
physical  and  geological  featuretiof  that  portion  of  the  Rocky  iR»untains  between 
latitudes  49*^  and  50^  30'  j  a  paper  on  the  CypreaB  Hi  Ik,  Wootl  ^fountain,  and 
adjacent  country,  by  Mr.  E.  b,  McConnell ;  on  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  Region, 
by  Mr.  A.  C,  Lawaon;  on  the  Lake  Mistaaaini  Exi)edition,  by  Mr.  A.  P.  Low; 
on  Hudson  Strait  and  Bay,  by  Mr.  R*  Bt^U.  The  aroount  of  Lake  iristaasini  is 
of  special  interest.  TJiroughout  the  vohime  are  a  number  of  illustrations, 
photographs,  and  w^elL  executed  engravings,  ^vbich  are  uf  some  geographical 
value;  and  so  also  are  the  map,  which  combine  topography  with  geology, 

Steinen,  Karl  [von  den].— Durch  Central-Braailien.  Expedition  zur  Erforschung 
des  Schingu  im  Jahre  1884,  Lcipxig,  Brockhnus,  1886 :  imp,  8vo.,  pp.  xii,  and 
372.     Pric^  22s.  Gd.    (Btdau.) 

Herr  von  den  Stein en'ts  worlc  may  be  t^iken  as  a  typical  example  of  what  a 
scientilic  exploratiun  of  a  great  tract  of  comparatively  unknown  country  ought 
to  1)0.  He,  his  cousin  W,  von  den  Steinen,  and  Dr.  Clauss,  were  members  uf  the 
German  South  Georgia  expedition,  on  the  return  of  which  they  remained  beljind 
at  Monte  Video  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  out  an  exploration  of  a  section  of  the 
South  American  interior.  In  various  departments  of  science  they  were  well 
qualified  for  making  the  most  of  their  oppttr tun i ties,  and  the  volume  containing 
the  record  of  their  work  is  rich  in  results.  Their  main  object  was  to  explore  the 
course  of  the  great  river  Xingu,  w^hich  flowing  north  thruugh  14  degrees  of  lati- 
tude, joins  the  Amazon  near  the  head  of  its  delta.  Starting  from  the  La  Plata 
and  proceeding  northwards  by  the  Parana  to  Cuyaba,  much  good  work  was 
done  before  the  source  of  the  Xingu  was  reached.  Several  chapters  are  devoted 
to  Cuyaba  and  ita  inhabitauta,  and  two  chapters  to  the  great  province  of  Mat  to 
Grofiso,  The  ethnology  of  South  America  receives  special  attention,  and  the 
volume  contains  a  map  showing  the  distribution  of  the  various  races.  The 
survey  of  the  Xingu  was  carried  out  with  great  care,  and  the  detailed  large-scale 
map,  OS  well  as  the  narrative,  abounds  with  new  information.  The  chief  results, 
BO  lar  as  the  river  is  concerned,  have  already  been  described  in  the  *  Proceedings ' 
(voL  viii*,  188G,  p.  G17).  Several  appendiceii,  mainly  ethnological,  are  addedj 
and  the  work  contains  many  atlraimblo  illustrations.  There  are  some  useful 
hints  as  to  the  kind  of  words  which  traveHers  should  aelect  for  which  to  obtain 
native  equivalents. 

AUSTRALASIA. 

Hager,  OarL — Kaiser  WilhelmS'Land  und  der  BIsmarck-Archipel.  Leipzig, 
Gressner  und  Schramm  [188C] :  8vo,,  pp.  14 i.     Price  3*.    (Dulau.) 

Herr  Eager  has  brought  together  in  this  volume  a  summary  of  what  we 
know  concerning  the  recently  acquired  possessions  of  Germany  in  the  South 
Seas,  There  are  several  illustrations,  reproduced  from  books  of  travel,  and  a 
sketch-map  of  the  German  coast  of  New  Guinea. 

Leudeufeld,  B,  von* — The  Glacial  Period  in  Australia.  [Extracted  from  vol.  x., 
Fart  1,  of  the  *  Proceedings  of  the  Linneaa  Society  of  New  South  Wales.*]  8vo., 
pp.  10,  map  and  plates. 


(    209    ) 

NEW  MAPS. 

(By  J.  CoLBS,  Map  Curator,  r.g.s.) 

EUBOPE. 
Croatien  nnd  Slayonien*— Karte  yon  — >,  entworfen  uud  Sr.  Exccllcnz  Uerrn 
Crrefen  Josef  JellaSiS  von  BaSim,  in  tieikter  Ehrfarcht  gewidmet  yom  k.k.  iDgenieur 
AaUtenten  dex  Staatseisenbahn  Michael  Katzenschliigcr.  Scale  1 :  504,CXX)  or 
6*9  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Eigenthum  und  Yerlag  yon  Artaria  &  Ca, 
Wicn,  1887.    Price  5s.    (Dtilau.) 

Elbe* — Stiomkarte  der •    Scale  694*5  yards  to  an  inch.    L.  Friedrichsen  & 

Co.,  Hamborg.    56  sheete  in  case.    Price  21. 18s.    (Dulau,) 

This  map  consists  of  fifty-six  sheets,  each  of  which  would  contain  an  area 
of  forty  square  miles,  but  as  in  many  of  them  a  considerable  portion  is  left 
blank,  the  fact  is  only  mentioned  in  order  to  convey  some  idea  of  the  extent  of 
country  shown  on  either  bank  of  the  river.  In  that  portion  of  the  map  which 
shows  the  course  of  the  Elbe  through  the  Crerman  Empire,  Uie  distance  from 
the  Austrian  frontier  to  the  sea  is  given  in  kilometres,  the  numeration  increasing 
with  the  river's  downward  course,  and  the  opposite  is  the  case  in  the  Austrian 
Empire  where  the  kilometres  are  numbered  up-stream  as  far  as  Prague,  which 
is  the  limit  of  the  map.  The  heights  are  shown  by  contour  lines,  and  cultivated 
ground,  means  of  communication,  &c.,  by  the  symbols  usually  employed  in 
surveys  drawn  on  a  large  scale.  In  addition  to  the  principal  map,  a  sheet, 
on  a  reduced  scale,  is  given,  on  which  the  whole  area  drained  by  the  Elbe 
and  its  affluents  is  laid  down,  together  with  statistical  tables  having  reference 
to  the  same  subject 

Oefterreiohsoh-Ungarischen  Honarchie.  — Specialkarte   der   .     Scale 

1 :  75,000,  or  1  geographical  mile  to  an  inch.  K.k.  militSr-geografisches  Institut, 
Wien,  1886.  Sheets:  Zone  11,  Col.  XXII.  Nagy-ROce  und  Rima-Bdnya; 
12— XXrV.  Gone  und  Csobad;  13— XXVII.  Beregsz^z  und  Mezo-Tarpa; 
14— XXVIL  J^nk;  14— XXIL  GySngyosund  Bakba;  16— XXVI.  Szalacs  und 
Er-Dioszeg;  18— XXVII.  Bucsa  und  Rossia;  32— XV.  Almissa  und  S.  Pietro 
della  Brazza;  32— XVII.  Kocerin  und  Mostar;  33— XVII.  Ljubuski  und 
Metkovi6 ;  34— XIX.  Bilek;  35— XIX.  Trebinje  und  Risano.  Price  If.  4rf.  each 
sheet.    (DtUau.) 

OMterreich-Ungarischen  Eisenbahnexi-— Die der  Gegenwart  und  Zukunft. 

Karte  zur  Reise,  so  wie  zur  Uebersicbt  der  befahrenen,  im  Bau  befindlichen, 
concessionirten  und  projectirtcn  Eisenbahnen,  nebst  deren  eigenthiimlichen 
Benennungen«  Emeute  Ausgabe  mit  3  Beikartken :  Das  nordbohmische  Eisen* 
bahnnetz.— Umgebung  Wiens.-^Die  Orient- Anschltisse,  Artaria  &  Co.,  Wien, 
1887.    Price  2*.  •   (Dulau.) 

Oefterreich-Ungarn. — Eisenbahn-  und  Poet-  Communications-Earte  von , 

enthaltend  fertige  und  in  Bau  befindliche  Eisenbahnen  mit  alien  Stationen,  die 
Postrouten  filr  Personen-Beforderung  und  Dampfschiff-Stationen.  Mit  den 
Distanzen  in  Tarif-Kilometem.  Scale  1 : 1,700,000  or  23*2  geographical  miles  to 
an  inch.  Beikarten :  Umgebungen  von  Wien  und  Budapest  sowie  das  nOrdliche 
Bohmen.    Artaria  &  Co.,  Wien,  1887.    Price  2«.  6d.    (Dulau.) 

Horway.— Generalkart  over  det  sydlige  Norge  i  18  Blade.  Scale  1 : 400,000  or  5* 5 
geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Sheet  VII.  Udgivet  af  den  geografiske  Opmaaling. 
Kristiania,  1885.  Topografisk  kart  over  kongeriget  Norge.  Scale  1 :  100,000  or 
1 '  3  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Udgivet  af  Norges  geografiske  Opmaaling,  188G. 
Sheets:  9o,  Skien;  15a, Eidsberg ;  20o,  Eidsvold ;  26o,  Aamot;  42c,  Troldhetta ; 
43g,  Holtaalen ;  42d,  Rennebu  ;  43d,  Stuesjd ;  49a,  Orlandet ;  50d,  Snaasen ; 
53b,  Overhalden;  5dD,  Hoilandet;  54a,  SanddOla.— Den  Geologiske  UndersCgelse. 


210 


NEW  MAPS. 


Scale  1:100,000  or  1*3  geographical  mile  to  an  inch.  Udgivet  af  Korgca 
goografiake  Opmaaling.  81ieeU:  1 5c,  Fct;  20a,  Nannestad— Kristlania  Omegn 
(iti  6  sheets).  Scale  1 :  25,000  or  2  ■  9  inches  to  a  geographical  mile.  Sheets ; 
II.  and  V*  Udgivet  af  Norges  geografiske  Opmaaling^  1885, — Romsdals  Amt,  IV. 
Scale  i :  200,000  or  2  ■  7  goographic.al  miles  to  aa  inch.    (Dulau,) 


OBDNANOE  8UKVEY  MAPS. 

Publlcfttioni  iBsnod  during  Ute  moDtb  of  Januaiy  188T. 
I -inch— General  M4|mi  :— 

ExaLAxi>  ATtj)  Wales  :  Shc«t  241.  New  Series^  U. 
6-liioh— Ocnmty  M^pi:*- 

EjfaLAKD  AJCB  Wales  :  Bodfordflhire :  23  N.W.»  35  N.W.,  S.VV,,  S.M,  2«  N.E.,  2a  X.E..  29  N.W^ 
N.E.,  S.W.,  aK.;  u.  each.  Brecknockshire :  'i«  n;k,  S.W..  S.E.,  29  N.W.,  N.E..  H.W..S.E., 
35  N.E.,S.W., 36  i^W.,  in  S.W,,  40  N.W.  •  l<.  Mjkcii,  Cambridg-eshiro :  lo  N.fcl,  ii  N.IU,  a.E„ 
12  S.W^  S.K.,  IB  N.E,.  S.K,  lli  KiL.S.fc;.,  21  N.W..  S.W,  S.ll.  55  8.  E.;  U.  t^ath.  Cardlff&ll- 
ahLre:  U  S.E„  12  S,E..  le  NE,.  S,E.  i  l*,  «u:ti.  Carmarthenshir©  :  n  S.W.,  4^  N.W.; 
1*.  each.  DevonoMre  r  19  Nil:  is.  e^icb,  DoTsetaliire :  5  S.W.,  u  N.E. ;  i#,  eiich, 
Glouceatershix* ;  ^s  N.W.,  67  S.W. ;  l*.  eack.  Herefordskire ;  i^s  s,W.  ;  i*.  cacb, 
l-inQoLii^hijre :  13  SAW  u  N.W„  7y  aE.;  i*.  each.  Monmouthshire  :  -^h,  3*.  €d.;  31.  2*» 
Montg-omeryshlT©;  2Q  N^E.,  S.W.,  S.E.,  27  N.W.,  ao  S.E.,;  ir.  each.  Norfolk;  67  S.E., 
79N.I'l;  ijr.caeh.  Someraetflhlre :  60  N.W,.a3S.W.;  i*.e*Lh,  Stalfordahir© :  7i  N.W.; 
U.  Suffolk;  S4  S.W,;  u.  Warwickshire:  i&  N,W.,  S.W..  n  S.E.,  £0  N.E,,  23  S.W^ 
^5  N.W. ;  li.  each.  Worcesterahire ;  i  N.W. ;  ir 
25-illoh— Parkh  Idipa  :— 

EsGLAJfD  AND  Walk*;  Brecknockshire^  XXV,  n.  is,  3*.  ciich.  Cajnbridffeshire :  XXVI. 
13,  3j  J  LIV,  1,  4J.;  LIV.  %  S*.;  LIV.  5»  7.  Sjr.eadi;  LIV.  H.  &*. ;  LIV.  15*  16,  LVIU.  1.  7,  LIX. 
I,  i,  fi,  7,  8,  LX.  1,  2;  8»  3*.  each.  Carmarthemhir© :  XXVIL  12,  13,  h,  is,  XXXIIL  11,  t% 
3«.  rach;  XXXllJ,  J5.  4j».;  XUL  2,  4.  3i,  rflcb.  Devonshire:  XVli.  5.  IVIII.  13,  XLl.  t,  h. 
n,  la.  Lll.  3,4,  7,  R»  13.  CVlI.  9.  10,  12,  14,  CVIII.  1.  2.  5,  U.  11,  Ifl.  €XXVi.  9,  W,  t^^CXXXI.  l&, 
CXXXll.  1,2,3.6.  3*.  ca.h;  CXXXIf.  €.  4j.;  CXXXll,  a,  CXXXUL  1.  2,  3.  4.  5,  fi,  7,  3*.  each.; 
CXXXlfL  11,  41,;  CXXXITL  15.  CXXXVJI.  h  3*.;  CXXXVll.  B,  4*.  Area  Bouk«:  Aihbury, 
BeAWortlijr,  l#, each;  Black  Torrlnptou,  It.  iki.;  Bratlon  ClDTflly,  2f. ;  Brcator.  If*  Gd,\  Broadwood 
Wldfer/i^r  Od.^  Ctawtou,  1*,  6ii. ;  ilermuiBwcck,  U.;  HahviO,  it.;  lame  it  ou,  1*.  Gd.^  MaO'tavy. 
It.;  MiltoD  Abbot,  If.  fkt.;  Norllileir,  2jt. ;  SamtifMrd  HpEn^'y,  U. ;  Sydeokam  lianicrel.  If.: 
Tavirtodt,  2j.  ad. ;  Tet<»it,  Thumhurv,  1 ».  each  \  Wbltchurcb*  li.  gJ.  Gloucestershire :  XXVI.  2, 

0,  LXXVllI.  5,  9,  3*.  each.    Area  Book :  Lower  Slaugbttr,  1*.    Herefordshire :  VIL  13,  X. 

15.  XUL  2,  XIV.  H.  XVIJ.  3,  4.  15.  X  Vlil.  I,  XIX.  Ii.  XX.  11,  3t.  each ;  XXI.  6,  4j.  Himtinff- 
donshir©:  XX.  b,  4j.  Lancashire:  XLVU.  3,  4s.  Leicestershire:  XXIX.  11,  3«.; 
XXX  Vt.  I*.  4*,;  XLIV.  16,  3*,  Area  iVok ;  Markfield,  It,  Lincolnshire:  V.  3,  fi,  7,  d.  la,  X. 
3,  4,  5,  6,  7,  3#.  each;  X.  10,  4f,|  X.  H,  l.'i,  XVL  f,  XXVII.  I,  J,  Ts  6,  y,  Hi,  13,  14, LI.  14,  LIL  4, 
LXl.  s,  LXil.  3,  5,  6,  3*.  (?«ch.    Montgomeryshire  :  VI iL  h.  12,  XXII.  10,  4 jr.  each  1  XXllI. 

16.  3*.;  XXJll,  16,41-  XXVil.  16,  3i. ;  XXVHI.  9,  13,  XXX.  1,  XXXJV.  4,  8.  13,  15.  IXXV.  6,  9, 
W,  13.  14,  XLL  2,  4.  e,  7.  8.  10.  11, 14,  XLVIL  1,  2,  3,  7.  9,  10, 11,  12,  IS,  LI.  3,  4,  7,  ».  11.  3*.  each. 
Norfolk ;  VL  »,  13,  XV.  h,  XVL  1.  2. 3,  3j.  ea*:lii  XVL  3,  4j. ;  XVL  6.  6,  7,  «,  9,  10,  11. 3*.  ench  ; 
XVL  12,  41;   XVL  H.  16,  16.  XVIL  1,  7,  0,10,  14,  3s,  each;    XVIL    IS,  4i.;    XIX.   10,  XX. 

1,  6>  ».  3*.  «ach;  XX.  le,  LXXVII.  S.  6^  13»  4t.  each;  LXXVIL  1ft,  3*,;  LXXXVIIL  1,  4, 
6,  7,  3#.  ench;  LXXXIX.  2,  5,  fl,  4i.  Mch;  C.t,  '_',  «*.  6<L  Area  Book:  North  Eltnham.  If. 
Korthamptonshir© :  VIIL  9,  14,  31.  each;  XL  7.4i. ;  XXVIL  10, 12,  XXXiX.  10,  12, 15.  I6, 
3*.  ra4:h;  XLIV.  H,  12,  4*.  each;  XLVtIL  12,  3t.  Nottinfi-hamshir©  :  I.  13  and  14  on  one 
iihc*t,  3*.;  IX.  15,  fif.;  IX.  16,  6*.  6d.  Butland :  XV.  7,4*.  Somersetshire:  XX.  4.  a*.; 
XXXIX.  9,  3*. J  XXXJX.  14,  LL  1,  2.  13.  LXIV.  5,  4t.  e»ch  ;  LXIV.  a,  31.;  LXIV.  9,  JO,  4f.  each: 
LXIV,  11,  12,  13,  16,  18.  3»,  oftdi :  LXV^  ^,4*.;  LXV,6,  18,  61.  eacb  ;  LXVL  1,  3*.  Arm  Booka: 
BalhforiJ,  Stowey,  1*.  each.  Staffordshire:  LXUL  2,  et.  fki.i  LXUL  5,  a*,;  LXIIL  »,  8*.; 
LXllL  13,  llj.  M.  i  LXllL  14,  4*.  Suffolk:  XXIV.  2.  e#.  C<i  ;  LVL  3,  LXIIL  16,  LXXIV^  7, 
LXXXL  11,  3f,  each;  LXXXVIL  3,  4j,  Arva  Book^:  AketLham,  Alnheton,  Bmndbb,  Chedburgb, 
Cla.vclou^  luutoo.  It.  eucb;  FramBDi;hani,  Fre^alDgfield,  It.  6ii.  eacL;  Great  Ui&kenUaiu.  (ireat 
FlDborijugh,  Hargrave,  llawkedati,  LnwshaLI,  Lt  tht  ringlmrn.  Little  Blakenhatn,  Oiifid*'n,  Southwell 
Park,  PakBfl*ld,  Wlnstoii,  It.  e*ch.  Warwickahii'e  :  XXX.  8,  Bt.;  XXXI.K,  10,  XLIU,  ?,  4,  6, 
*t.  1>,  3t.  eaclii  XLIV.  3,  4i.;  XLIV.  s,XLV.  L  9.  ^t».  13.14,  XLVL  7,  Vi,  14.  l&,  LI.  3,  4,  7,  B,  10, 11, 
15,  16,  lAL  4,  5,  »,  13,  LIV.  2,  3.  7.  ift,  3t.  «acb.  WOtshire  :  XXV.  B,  9,  XXVIL 2,  XX VIIL  4, 
3t. each;  XXIX.  0,  St, i  XXDL  10,  XXXIE. 2,  3,  fl,  7,  8,  11,  12,  15,  3ji.  each ;  XXXJL  16.XXXL11.  15, 
4f.  each;  XXXVL  1,  13,  XXXIX.  1,3,6,0,  XL.  11,  XLL  3,  G,  9,  H,  13, 14,  ID.  XLll.  1,  5,  9.  13,  3*. 
each.  WoroestertBhir© :  XXIIL  a.  ar.  Area  Hooks;  Aldlngt-m,  Breedon,  Crowle.  Crutck, 
I>jdd»rhlll,  Kld«r»fleld.  Graflan  FljfoTd,  Ha^lwr.  lllnibli'tou,  HiKldlngton.  Little  Witley,  U.  each  ; 
Miirtley,  It.  ed. ;  Oddlngley,  BMniarlcy  d'Abltot,  SL  Andrew,  aiid  limdii  ruted  to  ibe  imrUkbcB  of 
t?t.  Peter  and  St,  Andrew,  St,  i'etcr,  eind  kndi  raled  lu  the  i>arbhe'ii  of  Sl  Leier  und  St.  Andrew,  S«I- 
warpe.  Sbsljrlejr  Beaucliamp,  Siirawley,  Tlbberton,  U. each.    Yorkshir©  :  '-LX.X.XIL  11, 3t. 

Town  Plams— lO-fectEcale.'- 
KKCLAMi  AN©  Wales  :  Aljeirstwith.  VL  13.  2,  7  ;  2f.  each.  Bradford-on-ATon.  XXXIL  14*  fi.  9, 
10,  15, 1?,  20,  2X  24,  25;  XXXVIII.  2,  4  ;  2t.e«ich.  C«;wk<-me,  LXXXVIll.  16.  15.  20  ;  LXXXJX. 
13,  1.  7,  11.  16,  17,18.22;  XOIL  4.5;  XCtlLl.  1 ;  2t.eacb.  Oramhara,  0X111.18,3.  h,  13.  IS,  l% 
23,  24 ;  CXXIL  4,  4.9;  2l.  each.  8tratf<»I\l-uT5-Avon.  XLIV.  6.  2,  3,  4,  7.  9,  12. 13,  14.  IS,  IS,  20.  23; 
2t.  each.     IVo  w  bridge,  X  XXV I IL  7,  4  ;  21;     Y tov  1 1 .  L  X  X  X 1  i  L 14, 1 1 , 1 B,  2 1 ;  X  C .  1, 4,  tt ;  2#.  cdch. 

CStat^ordt  Agent) 

AFEIOA, 

A&ica  Meridional  Portngneza— Carta  da .    Scale  1;  6,000,000  or  82"! 

geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    CommisaSo  de  Cartograpliia,  188C.    Coordenada 
'poT  A.  A.  d'Oliveira,     Gravado  e  impresao  por  Erhard,  Paris.     (Z)«/a«.) 


NEW  MAPS.  211 

Algeric— Carte  Topographique  de  V .  Scale  1 :  50,000  or  1  '4  inches  to  a  geo- 
graphical mile.  D4pOt  de  la  Guerre,  Paris.  Sheets :— No.  8,  Dellys ;  9,  Azef- 
foon;  15,  Djebel  Filfila;  17,  Bdne;  18,  Oued  Guergour;  22,  M^ncrville ;  65, 
Ben  Haroun;  79,  Sidi  el  Baroudi;  85,  Vesoul  Beniane;  86,  Mede'a;  88,  Aine 
Bessem;  102,  A!ne  Bou  Dinar;  127,  Arzeu  ;  128,  Mostaganem  :  155,  Dehrousse- 
ville;  179,RioSalado;  181,Arbal.    (Dulau.) 

Cabinda,  Holembo,  e  Hassabi  — Carta  dos  Territorios  do  .     Scale 

1 :  750,000  or  10*3  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Commissao  de  Cartographia, 
1886.  Coordenada  por  A.  A.  d'Oliveira.  Gravado  e  impress©  por  Erhard,  Paris. 
(Dulau.) 

Onin^e. — Carte  de  la  delimitation  Franco-Portugaise  en ,  par  E.  Desbuissons, 

1886.  Scale  1:940,000  or  12*8  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Gravd  et 
imprimd  par  Erhard,  Paris.    (Dulau,) 

Kabylie. — Carte  de  la  Grande  (Algdrie)  et  d'une  partie  de  la  Medjana. 

D*apr^  les  reconnaissances  des  Officiers  d'£tat-major  et  autres  documents. 
Pabli^o  par  le  Ddpot  de  la  Guerre,  Paris,  1855.  Tirage  de  D^cmbre  1886. 
Scale  1 :  200,000  or  2*7  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    Price  2«.  Gd,    (Didau,) 

Principe.— Carta  da  Ilha  do .     1886.      Scale  1 :  100,000  or  1*3  geographical 

mile  to  an  inch.  Commissao  de  Cartographia.  Coordenada  por  Ernesto  de 
Vasconcellos.    (Dulau,) 

S.  ThiagO.— Ilba  de .    Piano  hydrographico  do  Porto  da  Praia,  Archipelago 

de  Cabo  Verde.  Scale  1 :  8000  or  9  inches  to  a  geographical  mile.  Commissao  de 
Cartographia.    (Dulau,) 

Siidafrika.— Die  Portugiesische  Exiiedition    quer  durch  ,  1884  und  1885* 

Nach  den  Originalkarten  von  Capello  und  Ivens  im  Massstab  1:1,000,000 
reduziert  auf  Justus  Perthes'  Spezialkarte  von  Afrika.  Scale  1 ;  4,000,000  or 
55*5  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Petermann's  *  Greographische  Mitteilungen,' 
Jahrgang  1887,  Taf.  3.    Justus  Perthes,  Gotha.    (Dulau.) 

West  Central  Africa-— Boute  von  Paul  Staudinger  und  Ernst  Hartert  von  Loko 
am  BenuS  nach  Kano,  Sokoto,  und  Gandu.  August  1886-April  1886.  Nach 
den  Tagebiichem  der  Relsenden,  construirt  und  gezeichnet  von  Wilhelm  Erman. 
Scale  1:1,000,000  or  13*6  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Mittheilungen  der 
Afnkanischen  Gesellschaft  in  Deutschland,  Bd.  v.  Taf.  4. 

Zontpansberg  (Transvaal).— Curte  des  Districts  du ,et  de  Lorenzo  Marquez 

(Possessions  Portugaises)  dress^  par  Henri  Berthoud,  Missionnaire,  d'apr^  ses 
voyages  en  1881, 1883,  et  1885.  Scale  1 :  925,000  or  12*6  geographical  miles  to 
an  inch.    F.  Noverraz  et  Fils,  Geneve.    (Dulau.) 

AMEBIGA. 
HissiiSippi  Eiver.— Map  illustrative  of  Captain  Willard  Glazier's  Voyage  of 
Exploration  to  the  Source  of  the  — .    Drawn  from  delineations  by  his  Indian 
guide  (Jhe-No-Wa-Ge-Sic.     Approximate  scale  1:265,000  or  3*5  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.    Band,  McNally  &  Co.,  Chicago.    (Dulau,) 

In  a  note  which  is  inserted  on  this  map  beneath  Lake  Glazier  it  is  stated  to 
be  the  source  of  the  Mississippi  river,  and  that  it  was  reached  July  22nd,  1884. 
It  would,  however,  appear  that  this  lake  was  first  visited  and  surveyed  by 
Lieut.  Allen  in  1832,  and  afterwards  by  Mr.  Featherstonehaugh  in  1835,  who 
describes  it  in  his  book  *  A  Canoe  Voyage  on  the  Minnay  Soter.'  In  the  other 
portions  of  the  map  there  is  little  worthy  of  special  notice,  and  for  farther 
particulars  with  regard  to  Captain  Glazier's  claim  to  be  the  discoverer  of  the 
sources  of  the  Mississippi  river,  see  B.G.S. '  Proceedings '  for  January,  pp.  58 
and  69,  where  a  note  on  Mr.  Harrower's  pamphlet  will  he  found ;  and  also  in  the 
February  number,  p.  119,  where  Captain  Glazier's  claim  is  briefly  discussed. 


212 


KEW  JIAPS, 


ATLASES.  '^^H 

Alidree,  Richard, — Supplement  zurcraien  Auflage  von  RichArd  Andrees  HaadaH|^| 
enthaltead  die  33  Seiten  ueucr  Eartea  der  zwciten  Auflage  von  1886*    Apart  liir 
die  Bcfiitzcr  der  crsten  Auflage,  Heraiisgegcbeti  von  dcr  Geogiaphischen  Anstalt 
VOB  Velhagen  &  Klasing  in  Leipzig.    Lief,  1  ife  L\    Price  2*.  each,     (Dutau,) 

In  conseqiienco  of  discoveries  and  Burveys  that  have  hc^n  mado  bIocc  the 
original  issue  of  this  atlas,  eome  of  the  maps  which  it  contained  required 
correction,  and  it  was  also  desirable  that  others  which  had  appearecl  in  the 
original  iBsiie  should  be  given  on  larger  scales,  Willi  these  objects  in  view, 
the  author  i«  now  issuing  a  eupplement  in  three  parts>  which  will  contain 
33  sheets  of  maps.  On  a  previous  occasion,  attention  has  been  called  to  this 
excellent  atlas,  which,  for  the  price  at  which  it  is  sold,  is  equal  to  any  published. 
These  two  jmTt&  contain  the  following  maps  : — Lief.  1 :  Beite  3,  Ireland;  4  u.  5, 
England  und  Wales ;  6,  Schottlaud ;  7,  Das  shdlicho  Skandinavien  ;  8,  Nord- 
westliches  Frankreich  ;  9,  Nordustliches  Frankreich ;  10,  Siidweatliches  Frank- 
i-eich  ;  23.  Die  Antillen ;  24  n,  25,  Kordwestlichefi  Afrika ;  2%  Westafrikanische 
Kolonial-karten,— Lief.  2  r  Beite  11,  Siidoatliches  Frankreich;  12,  Franzosisch 
-italienische  Alpen  ;  13,  tlbersichrskarteder  Alpen ;  14,  Sizilien  und  Sardinien  ; 
15,  Griechealand ;  16,  WestniBaland ;  17,  Kaukasualiinder ;  18,  Japan ;  27.^ 
Algerien  und  Tunis  ;  28  u.  29,  Nord< Jstliches  Afrika  ;  30,  Agypten.  ^| 

Berghaua*   Physikaliaclier   Atlae  (begriindet  1836  von  Heinrich  Berghans), 

75  Kartcn  in  Ziehen  Ahtcilungen,  enthaltend  mehrerc  Huudcrt  Daratelliingcn 

ilber  tleologie,  llydrographie,  Meteorologie,  Erdmagnetiamus,  PBanzenverbreitung, 

Tierverbreitiing    und    Volkerknnde,      Vollstiindig    ncu    bearbeitet    nnd    unte(E^ 

Mitwirkung  von  Dr,  Oscar  Dnide,  Dn  Georg  Gerlaud,  Dr.  Julius  Hann,  Dr.  Q^H 

Hartlaub,  Dr.  W.  Marshall,  Dr.  Geoi^  Neumayer,  und  Dr.  Karl  v.  Zittel,  heraus- 

gegeben  von  Professor  Dr.  Hermann  Berghatifl,   Siebente  Lieferuog*  Inhalt:  Nr.  31, 

Isothermen  von  Xord-Amerika.     Nr.  48,  Florenkarte  von  Aden.    Nr-  5G,  Vor- 

breitung  der  Keptilien.     Gotha,   Justus    Perthes,   1886.     Price  3».  each  part, 

(Didau.)  H 

This  is  the  seventh  issue  of  this  atlas,  and  contains  sheets  No.  31,  48,  and!^ 

56.    Sheet  31  exhibits  isothermal  lines  on  the  Continent  of  North  America  for 

the  months  of  January  and  July,  and  the  mean   temperature  of  the  year. 

Another  map  shows  the  isotherms  of  the  eastern  portion  of  the  United  St^tteu 

for  Januarj\     Sheet  48  is  a  map  illustratin.^  the  distributiou  of  flowering  plants 

in  Asia  and  Europe.     The  region  embraced  is  so  lar^e,  and  the  cons<?i]uent  ^ys* 

tern  of  colouring  is  so  elaborate^  that  there  is  some  little  difRcnlty  in  distinguish* 

ing  the  meaning  of  tho  different  shades  employed,  as,  for  iniitance,  the  colour 

u»ed  to  diatingulsh  the  region  of  tho  Dryobalauopfi  from  that  of  the  Diptero- 

carjjua  is  so  nearly  the  same  aa  that  employed  in  the  latter  case  that  it  wonld 

ixi  extremely  diflicult  to  decide  as  to  which  it  was  intended  to  represent. 

Sheet  56  exhibits  the  distribution  of  reptiles.     This  is  done  by  mcAns  of  six 

small  maps  of  the  world,  the  different  regions  where  each  class  is  found  being 

enclosed  in  a  band  of  colour.     These  sheets  are  beautiful  specimens  of  carto* 

graphy,  the  registering  of  the  colours  employed  being  perfects 

BrltlBll  Empire,-"Atlasofthe throughout  the  World,  by  John  Bartholomew, 

}r.B.G.s.,  with  Explanatory  and  Statistical  Notes,     Enlarged  Jubilee  Editiotu 
London,  G.  Philip  &  Son,  1887.    Price  3i.  Bd. 

This  little  atlas  contains  twenty-nine  sheets  of  maps  which  have  been 
specially  prepared  to  illustrate  the  various  colonies  and  dependencies  of  the 
British  Empire,  The  first  map  gives,  with  tho  aid  of  colour,  a  general  view  of 
the  distribution  of  the  British  i)osse8Hions.  Care  appears  to  have  been  taken  Uj 
US©  the  best  materials  in  the  work  of  compilation,  and  the  result,  as  a  whole, 
3s  satisfactory.  Under  the  title  of  "  Notes  to  Maps  "  some  very  useful  explana- 
tory and  statistical  information  is  given. 


PROCEEDINGS 


OP  ' 


ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  RECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


Prejevahhys  Journeys  and  Discoveries  in  Central  Asia.^ 
By  E.  Delhab  Moboak. 

CBead  at  the  Evening  Meeting,  Febmaiy  28th.  1887.) 
'  Map,  p.  268. 

Before  calling  your  attention  this  evening  to  the  travels  of  Prejevalsky, 
let  me  give  a  few  personal  reminiscences  which  may  help  to  bring  his 
individuality  before  you. 

I  first  met  him  at  an  evening  meeting  of  the  Imperial  Geographical 
Society  at  St.  Petersburg,  when,  with  a  flow  of  language  and  eloquence 
very  striking,  he  gave  an  account  of  his  first  expedition  into  Central 
Asia,  whence  he  had  just  returned.  Calling  at  his  lodging  a  few  days 
afterwards  I  found  him  busily,  engaged  in  unpacking  his  collections 
which  were  in  an  admirable  state  of  preservation,  notwithstanding  the 
many  thousand  miles  they  had  come  and  the  variety  of  climates  to 
which  they  had  been  exposed.  Among  his  chief  prizes  he  showed  me 
skins  of  the  Ovis  Poli  and  other  rare  animals  shot  by  him  in  Northern 
Tibet  Ever  since  then  our  acquaintance  has  been  renewed  as  oppor- 
tunity offered  between  his  long  absences  from  Europe,  and  from  time  to 
time  he  has  sent  me  particulars  of  his  discoveries  which  I  have  com- 
municated to  this  Society.  As  to  his  personal  history,  I  may  mention 
that  his  earlier  years  were  passed  in  inuring  himself  to  all  kinds  of 
physical  privations  and  hardships  to  prepare  for  the  career  of  an  explorer, 
and  soon  after  entering  the  military  service,  he  asked  for  and  obtained 
an  appointment  in  Eastern  Siberia,  where  he  could  indulge  his  passion 
for  sport  and  adventure.  In  the  dense  virgin  forests  on  the  TJssuri, 
that  remote  part  of  the  Bussian  empire  acquired  in  1860,  he  passed 
two  summers,  continually  moving  from  place  to  place,  and  when  not 
occupied  with  his  of&cial  duties  taking  meteorological  observations, 
collecting  and  drying  plants,  shooting  and  stuffing  birds,  keeping  a 
diary,  &c. 

In  1871-73  he  made  his  first  great  expedition  in  Mongolia  and 

*  Compiled  from  the  Bossian  originals. 
No.  rV.— April  1887.]  b 


314 


PREJEVALSKY'S  JOURKEY^S  AND  DISCOVERIES 


Tibet,  After  crosBing  the  Gobi  Desert  between  Kiaclita  and  Kalgatx  lie 
turned  westward  and  followed  nearly  in  the  footsteps  of  Abbe  Hue  to 
the  province  of  Eaneu  in  Western  China,  visiting  Lake  Kokonor,  a 
magnificent  water- spread  10,800  feet  above  the  sea.  He  then  entered 
Tsaidam,*  a  saline  marshy  tract  Bome  500  milGs  long  from  east  to  west, 
which  in  his  opinion  has  recently  been  covered  by  the  sea.  Hence  he 
passed  into  Northern  Tibet»  but  owing  to  the  want  of  resources  ho  was 
unaMo  to  prosecute  his  journoy  to  Lliiisa,  and  was  obliged  to  turn  back 
when  but  27  days'  march  or  about  500  miles  from  that  city.  Among 
the  results  of  this  expedition^  besides  rich  collections  of  the  flora  and 
fauna  of  the  countries  visited  and  a  detailed  route  survey,  was  the 
discovery  of  a  moist  mountainous  region  in  Kansu,  to  the  north  of  the 
upper  Hoang-ho  and  east  of  Lake  Koko-nor,  well  wooded  and  abundantly 
supplied  with  rainfall  though  isolated  by  arid  tracts.  On  his  return 
journey  ho  crossed  the  Gobi  in  its  widest  part  between  Din-yuan*ing 
and  Urga,  in  the  height  of  summer,  by  a  route  never  before  attempted 
by  European  travellers. 

In  1870  Prejovalsky  advanced  from  Kulja,  then  held  by  Hussia^ 
crossed  the  Thian  Shan  and  turning  southwards  from  the  oasis  of 
Eara-shahr^  struck  the  Tarim  and  followed  this  river  down  to  its  out- 
flow in  Lake  Lob,  the  first  European  to  visit  this  lake  in  modem  times* 
His  description  of  it,  difijaring  widely  from  the  accounts  given  by  old 
travellers  and  by  Chinese  writers,  took  geograpbcra  by  surprise,  par- 
ticularly as  regards  the  Bweetneea  of  its  waters  at  its  western  end  where 
the  discharge  of  the  Tarim  takes  place.  But  his  most  important  dis- 
covery was  that  a  high  range  of  mountains,  the  Alt^^n-tagh,  rises  almost 
jjrecipitously  from  its  southern  shore  to  the  limit  of  perpetual  enow, 
and  apparently  buttresses  the  northern  Tibetan  plateau.  We  can  now 
understand,  says  Baron  nichthofen,  why  the  old  silk  traders  passed  so 
close  to  the  south  of  Lob*nor,  and  encounter  'd  the  terrors  of  the  desert 
between  it  and  Sha-chau  rather  than  attempt  a  passage  over  huge 
mountains  where  the  diMculties  of  transport  were  so  great.  We  shall 
see,  however,  when  we  come  to  Prejevalsky*8  fourth  and  last  journey  that 
the  trade  route  did  in  all  probability  cross  those  mountains  hy  an  easy 
pass  from  Cherchen,  while  an  alternative  route  to  China  lay  through 
Lob-nor  and  Sha-chau. 

By  these  two  journeys  Prejevalsky  had  acquired  a  reputation  as  a 
traveller  and  observer,  and  whon  he  started  on  his  third  expedition  he 
was  well  supplied  with  funds  and  \i4th  every  requisite-  In  1879  be 
undertook  what  he  himself  prefers  styling  his  third  "  scientific  recon- 
naissance" into  the  heart  of  Asia,  Fort  Zaisan,  now  a  town  in  th© 
government  of  8emii)alatin8k,  was  his  point  uf  departure.  Here  he 
obtained  the  supplies  necessary,  aud  transport  animals  for  his  party 
numbering  thirteen  all  told,  ten  being  Cossacks^  picked  meuj  and  well 
♦  10,000  feet  above  sea-leveU 


I 


I 


15  CENTRAL  ASIA. 


^ 


practised  in  the  use  of  firearmB,  upon  which  Prejevalsky's  experience 
had  taught  him  to  place  his  chief  reliance  in  dealing  with  the  natives 
of  Central  Asia. 

Their  route  at  first  led  them  by  Lake  Uliunghm*,  visited  in  1253 
by  the  Franciscan  monk  Euhmqnis,  who  was  sent  on  a  mission  by 
Louis  IX.  of  France  to  the  Jloiigol  Khan  at  Karukomra.  The  lake  has 
a  circumference  of  87  miles,  an  elevation  above  the  sea  of  about  1600 
feet,  and  receives  on  the  east  the  discharge  of  a  large  river,  the  Urnngu. 
A  pecnliar  feature  about  this  lake  is  that  a  narrow  ridge  of  highland 
separatea  its  north-eastern  extremity  from  the  Black  Irtish,  and  there- 
fore from  the  basin  of  the  Obi  and  the  Frozen  Ocean. 

Prejevakky  and  his  party  passed  along  its  western  and  southern 
fihores  to  the  Chinese  fort  of  BulaD-tohoi,  sittiated  at  the  month  of  the 
Unrngu.  'J'hey  then  followed  this  river,  which  has  a  course  of  abont 
300  miles,  and  derives  its  source  from  the  Altai  Mountains,  cutting  a 
deep  channel  through  the  plain  lying  between  them  and  the  Thian  Shan 
range.  Not  long  before  the  expedition  passed  this  way  a  large  body  of 
Kirghizes,  numbering  about  9000,  had  wintered  on  the  Urungu,  having 
escaped  from  tho  control  of  the  Eussian  authorities  in  Soniipalatinsk. 
They  had  suffered  terribly  from  want  of  fodder  for  their  cattle,  and 
Prejevalsky  saw  numerous  traces  of  their  encumpments  along  a  tract 
extending  over  100  miles  up  the  Urungii,  where  everything  edible  had 
been  devoured,  even  to  the  hark  of  the  poplur  trees,  which  had  been 
felled  and  stripped,  while  the  ground  was  strewn  with  the  carcases  of 
their  dead  sheep.  This  incident  serves  to  illustrate  tho  great  change 
that  has  come  over  Central  Asia  sinoe  the  days  when  Jinghis  Khan 
and  other  great  conq^nerors  found  sufficient  sustonanco  for  their  vast 
arniies. 

The  natives  of  the  upper  valley  of  the  Urungu  or  its  chief  tributary, 
the  Bttliigun,  are  Turgtite-Kalmuks,  whose  kinsmen,  inhabiting  north- 
western Dzungaria  at  the  foot  of  the  Tarbogotai  range,  are  the  descen- 
dants of  those  Kalmuks  who,  driven  out  of  their  camping  grounds  by 
the  Bzungars,  migrated  to  the  banks  of  the  Volga  and  Ural  at  the  end 
of  the  17th  century,  and  in  1770  suddenly  departed,  to  the  number  of 
460,000  families,  into  the  depths  of  Asia  under  the  leadership  of  their 
Khan  UWsihi,  and  arrived,  though  in  greatly  diminished  numhers,  on 
Lake  Balkash,  and  afterwards  at  Ili,  where  lands  were  given  them  hy 
the  Chinese  Emperor.  The  Turgutes  are  subjects  of  the  Emperor  of 
<Jhina,  and  remnants  of  them  who  escaped  tho  Dungan  insurrection  now 
occupy  the  lands  about  Yulduz  and  Kara-shahr. 

After  ascending  tbe  Urungu  and  Bulugun,  Prejevalsky  crossed  a 
sand  waste  to  the  foot  of  the  Thian  Shan,  called  by  Mm  the  desert  of 
Dzungaria,  after  tho  countiy  of  which  it  forms  part.  It  is  bounded  on 
throo  sides  by  moantains,  while  on  the  east,  where  the  Altai  and  Thian 
Shan  ranges  appr*>ach  one  another,  an  isthmus  of  sand  unites  it  with 

B  2 


aiG  PREJEVALSKrS  JOURNETS  AND  DISCOVERIES 

the  Golu,*  This  coBBection  existed  in  distant  ages,  when  the  whole 
area  of  what  is  now  known  as  th©  Gobi  was  covered  by  a  sea  menlioned 
in  Chinese  annals  as  Kan-haLj  The  Dzimgarian  desert  formed  a  great 
gulf  of  this  sea  commnnicating  with  another  x&st  water-apread,  the 
Aralo-Caepian. 

Frejo%'alsky  describes  at  some  length  its  climate,  soil,  flora,  and 
fenna ;  we  have  only  space  here,  however,  for  a  few  of  his  remarkis. 
First,  the  most  characteristic  of  the  flora  of  this,  and  indeed  the  whole 
of  the  Central  Adan  plains  and  deserts,  is  thi»  Saxaul  (Haloxjflon 
ammodendron\  called  by  the  Mongol b  zal\  a  tree  or  shrub  growing 
to  a  height  of  fourteen  feet,  and  a  thickness  near  the  root  of  half  to 
three-quarters  of  a  foot.  It  is  most  commonly  met  with  in  the  drift 
sands,  particularly  in  Ala-shan  and  in  Rnssian  Turk  is  tan.  It  is  by  no 
means  attractive  in  appearance,  it  gives  no  shade,  and  the  sand  round 
it  is  devoid  of  all  other  vegetation.  But  its  usefulness  to  the  nomad 
ifl  beyond  description  ;  it  supplies  kim  with  fuel,  and  his  camels  with 
food ;  its  wood,  though  heavy  and  hard,  is  exceedingly  brittle,  so  much 
S0|  that  a  large  log  of  it  when  struck  with  the  axe  will  fall  to  pieces. 
Henoe  it  is  of  no  use  for  building  purposes,  but  it  bums  splendid  I  y» 
almost  like  coal,  and  retains  its  heat  a  long  time.  Its  geographioal 
distribution  is  very  wide  in  Inner  Asia.  It  is  met  with  throughout  the 
vast  tract  extending  from  the  Caspian  Sea  on  the  west,  to  the  limits 
of  China  Proper  on  the  east,  and  through  nearly  12^  of  latitude  from 
the  parallel  of  Lake  Uliunghur  on  the  north  to  Tsaidam  on  the  south, 
where  it  grows  at  a  height  of  10,000  feet  above  the  seaj  but  its  chief 
habitat  is  the  Gobi  and  Northern  Ala-shan,  Bznngaria,  and  Russian 
Turkistan*  Of  the  fauna  of  Dzungaria,  we  must  mention  the  wild 
horse — ^Frejevalskj^'s  wild  horse — a  stuffed  specimen  of  which  ia  pre- 
served at  the  Academy  of  Sciences  at  St.  Petersburg,  and  the  wild  camel, 
the  Bactrian  two-humped  species.  Both  these  animals  inhabit  the 
wildest  and  least  accessiblo  parts  of  the  desert.  The  wild  horsCj  wliich 
jmlsBontologistB  have  shown  was  onco  widely  distributed  over  Europe 
and  Asia,  is  now  only  met  with  in  a  corner  of  the  desert  of  Bxungaria : 
but  the  wild  camel  was  also  observed  by  Prejevakky  in  the  desert  of 
Lob,  where  he  was  the  first  European  to  see  it  since  the  Venetian 
traveller  Marco  Polo,  six  centuries  ago,  passed  this  way. 

On  turning  southward  from  the  valley  of  the  Bulngun  he  soon  left 
behind  him  the  Altai  and  approached  the  Thian  Shan,  visible  in  the 
clear  atmosphere  of  the  desert  130  miles  off,  while  its  highest  peak» 
Bogdo-ula,  could  be  seen  before  leaving  the  Urungu,  160  miles  distant. 
Among  its  spurs  he  found  a  few  Chinese  settlers,  but  they  were  not  so 
numerous  as  they  had  been  before  the  Dungan  insurrection,  and  they 
had  entirely  driven  away  the  nomada. 

•  Borne  ckains  of  mouataioi  between  the  Turbogotoi  and  Tbian  Shan  bonier  it  on 
tiw  woat*  t  Or  **  tha  dry  mq,*' 


I 
I 


IN  CENTRAL  ASU. 


217 


Passing  the  salt  lake  and  plain  of  Barkul,'  Prejovalaky  crossed  tire 
-xnain  a,xx3i  of  the  Thiao  Shan  l>y  a  pass  8700  feet  high,|  and  descended 
<o  the  oasis  of  Hauii  on  the  south  side* 

This  oasis,  supplied  with  moiiiture  by  the  streams  which  descend 
:from  the  snowy  muuntaiDs,  though  of  no  great  extent,  is  reniarkably 
3>roductive,  Com,  vegetaljles,  grapes  and  melons  are  grown  here,  the 
last  of  such  exceptionally  fine  flavour  as  to  he  considered  worthy  of 
"being  sent  to  the  court  of  Peking.  But  Hami  in  its  present  state  shows 
unmistakable  evidence  uf  the  ravages  committed  by  the  Mahommedan 
Tebels.  Its  trees  have  all  been  felled,  its  gardens  destroyed,  its  home- 
uteads  laid  in  ruins.  Only  within  the  last  few  years  have  the  Chinese 
l)egim  restoring  their  houses  and  cultivating  the  land.  Prejevalsky 
considers  it  an  over-rated  place,  not  to  be  compared  with  Kulja,  that 
"  pearl  of  Central  Asia/' 

The  natives  of  Hami  are  descended  from  the  ancient  Uighurs,  and 
are  called  Taranchi.}  They  wear  a  national  drese,  consisting  of  an  ampU^ 
flowered  klialal  or  robe,  and  a  cap  of  a  peculiar  shape,  worn  at  the  back  of 
the  head.  The  women  are  good-looking,  black -eyed  and  black-haired, 
with  splendid  white  teeth,  but  unfortunately  they  fullow  the  Chinese 
custom  of  painting  their  faces*  They  walk  out  unveiled,  and  are  gene- 
rally free  and  easy  in  their  mannerB,  just  as  they  were  in  Marco  Folot* 
time. 

Kami  is  a  strategical  place  of  the  highest  importance,  as  it  commands 
the  chief  roads  from  China  Proper  to  Eastern  Turkistan  and  Bzungaria. 
It  is  the  key  to  all  the  cities  Bituatod  along  the  Thian  Shan,  fur  here  a 
road  passable  for  wheeled  vehicles  crosses  the  narrowest  part  of  the 
desert  to  An-si-chau.  By  this  route,  250  miles  long,  Prejevalskj' 
passed,  resting  his  caravan,  much  exhausted  by  the  fiery  urdeal  they 
had  gone  through,  in  the  environs  of  Sha-chau. 

Sha^^hau  is  one  of  the  best  oases  of  Central  Asia,  It  is  situated  at 
the  foot  of  the  Nan-shan  range,  at  a  height  of  3700  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  occupies  an  area  of  about  200  square  miles,  the  whule  of  which  is 
thickly  inhabited  by  Chinese,§  Sha-chau  ||  is  interesting  as  the  meeting- 
place  of  three  expeditions  started  independently  from  Kubsia,  India,  and 
China.     Just  two  months  before  Prejevalsky  reached  this  town  it  was 


•  The  town  of  Baikal,  founilod  by  the  Cliii»eie  in  1731,  rcmjimud  on  one  side  ef 
PtejevalftkyN  route»  iiud  was  not  visited  by  liim. 

t  On  eitber  uidc  uf  tbia  range  tfiL-re  iB  ft  cart*rofld  leading  from  Wi  stem  China. 
The  northern  road^  Peh^lii*  kad^  lo  Daikul,  Guchen»  UrumtBi,  Manas,  5<hi-ho,  Jinhft 
and  beyond  vi&  tbo  Talki  jjciss  to  Kulja.  The  Boutbera  toutt'^  Niiq-Iu,  paiBca  ibrougU 
f icliun*Turfaiif  Kjura-^habr,  Korla^  Kucha,  Bai,  Akau  to  Ki^bgar. 

I  Hami  is  composed  of  three  parts,  two  CldDeee  (an  old  and  a  now)  und  on^> 
Tkoandii 

{  Preje?Dlfiky  efetimateB  the  fopulatiou  at  10,000,  «f  whom  2000  were  froldicrs. 
&6C;cbenyi  given  12,000  as  tht.»  totiiL 

Alio  koown  bj  its  Chinese  name  Tung-hwim-haien. 


218 


PREJEVALSKY^S  JOURNEVS  AND  DISCOVERIES 


I 


visited  b^^  Count  Szeclienyi,*  jtiid  eighteen  montlia  afterwards  Pundit 
A— k,  whose  re|x>rt  of  it  agi'ees  fiiirly  well  with  that  of  our  traveller, 
also  Btayed  here.  Both  Prejevalsky  and  Szeclienyi  remark  on  some 
curious  eaves  in  a  VMlley  near  Sha-chau  containing  Buddhistic  clay 
idols.  These  caves  were  in  Jlarco  Polo's  time  the  resort  of  numerous 
worshippers,  and  are  said  to  date  hack  to  the  Han  dynasty .f 

Undeterred  by  the  suspicious  and  unfriendly  attitude  of  the  Chinese, 
who  thwarted  him  in  every  way,  Prejevahiky  pushed  on  towards  Tibet, 
now  seeking  the  road  hy  scouting^  now  pressing  into  his 'service  ooca* 
sional  Mongols  with  whom  he  chanced  to  meet.  He  crossed  the  Nan- 
shan,  whose  glittering  snowy  Bumniits  stood  forth  in  startling  contrast 
with  the  dark  blue  canoj^y  of  the  heavens,  those  mountains  which 
extend  on  the  ea«t  to  the  sources  of  the  lloang-ho  and  on  the  weat  to 
Loh-nor»  Khoten,  and  the  Pamir,  forming  a  gigantic  northern  barrier  to 
the  whole  of  the  Tibetan  uplands* 

By  his  discovery  in  1876  of  the  AltjTi-tagh,  Prejevakky  defined  the 
till  then  unknown  conoeotion  hetw^een  the  Kan-shan  and  Kuen-ldn,  at 
all  eventa  in  a  general  way,  and  the  position  of  the  northern  harrier  of 
the  Tibetan  plateau,  advancing  this  in  the  meridian  of  Loh-nor  3^ 
farther  to  the  north  than  had  hitherto  been  supposed.  Tsaidam  proved 
to  be  enclosed  on  all  sides  by  mountains,  w^hile  the  Kuen-ldn,  extend- 
ing under  various  names  from  the  sources  of  the  Yarkand  river  far  into 
the  interior  of  China  Proper,  margined  the  lofty  uplands  of  Tibet  only 
in  its  western  part  on  the  side  facing  the  low  Tarim  desert.  The  far- 
thtr  margin  of  that  Tibetan  plateau  is  formed  hy  the  nowdy  discovered 
Altyn-tagh,  uniting  on  the  one  side  by  means  of  the  Toguz-dahan  with 
the  Kuen-liin,  and  on  the  other,  as  may  be  now  confidently  asserted, 
with  the  Nanshan,  stretching  from  Sha-chau  to  the  Yellow  river. 

In  this  way  an  uninterrupted  gigantic  mountain  wall  stretches  from 
the  Upper  Iloang-ho  to  the  Pamir,  dividing  the  great  intumescence  of 
Central  Asia  into  two  parts,  the  Mongolian  desert  on  the  norths  and  the 
Tibetan  plateau  on  the  south,  ■ 

Nowhere  in  this  world  is  there  to  ho  met  with  on  such  a  scale  so 
marked  a  difierence  between  two  countries  lying  side  hy  side.  The 
chain  of  mountains  separating  them  is  often  not  wider  than  aboat 
30  miles,  and  yet  on  either  aide  of  it  lie  tracts  completely  distinct  in 
their  ge<dogical  formation  and  topographical  relief,  in  their  elevation 
and  climate,  their  flora  and  fauna,  and  lastly,  in  the  origin  and  the 
fortunes  of  the  peoples  inhabiting  them. 

But  let  ns  return  to  the  Nan-shan.  This  range,  as  wo  have  stated, 
extends  westward  from  the  Upper  Hoang-ho,  and  is  divided  into  several 
parallel  chains  forming  a  mountainous  alpine  country,  widest  to  the 
north  and  north-west  of  Koko-nor,  where  parts  of  it  rise  utove  the 

*  In  April  1S79. 

t  Whetlier  to  tiie  first  or  eecond  dynaity  of  that  name  is  imkiiowu. 


IX  CENTRAL  ASIA. 


919 


snow-line.  In  tlie  meridian  of  Shu-chati  ll:e  Nan-alian  narrows  to  a 
l>elt  o£  27  miles,  and  even  less  near  the  sno^vy  groiip  of  Aiiembar-ula, 
But  before  ibis  contraction,  60  railoa  to  tlio  east  of  the  gioup  just 
mentioned,  it  stand b  as  a  gigantic  range  crowned  with  perpetual  snow 
for  a  distance  of  over  70  miles  in  a  direction  W.N.W.  to  E.8-E.* 

In  the  Nan-shan  mountains,  Prejevalsky  pitched  his  camp  in  a 
chanuing  spot  by  the  side  of  a  brook,  which  ho  called  **  Botmteous,"  ft 
name  it  richly  deserved  for  its  life-giving  properties.  The  Nan-shan, 
in  the  meridian  of  Sha-chau,  is  a  sterilo,  treeless  range,  differing  widely 
from  its  eastern  part,  the  soKialled  mountains  of  Eansu,  In  the  last- 
namedf  dense  forests  of  every  kind  of  tree  and  sknib  clothe  the  slopes, 
particularly  on  the  north.  The  alpine  zone  abounds  in  rhododendrons 
and  ridi  pasturage ;  the  treeless  Sha-chau  mounttiins,  on  tho  other 
kand«  have  only  about  a  dozen  kinda  of  bushes,  and  but  little  variety 
m  their  herbaceous  flora,t  while  their  avifauna  is  proportionately 
deficient. 

Instead  of  grassy  slopes,  there  are  beds  of  rocky  detritus,  or  bare 
clay,  giving  an  aspect  of  dreariness  and  monotony  to  the  scene.  Yet 
the  higher  bolts  possess  a  savage  grandeur,  with  their  summits  towering 
above  the  main  axis,  their  precipices,  and  white-capped  peaks. 

In  these  wild  mountains,  Prejevalsky  and  his  Cossacks  remained 
several  weeks  hunting  and  exploring.  Among  tho  additions  to  their 
zoological  collection,  was  a  now  species  of  deer,|  and  tho  large  Tibetan 
partridge  §  inhabiting  the  highest  alpine  belts.  They  visited  a  glacier, 
17,100  feet  by  barometrical  measurement,  and  gaining  the  crest  of  tho 
range  had  a  magnificent  view  of  its  whole  extent. 

But  here  a  disaster  nearly  overtook  them.  Their  mutton  and  dried 
venison  being  all  consumedj  they  sent  out  hunters  every  day  to  tiy  and 
obtain  deer  or  yak.  Owing,  however,  to  the  scarcity  of  these  animals, 
they  often  returned  empty  handed,  One  day,  a  Cossack  reported  that 
ho  had  fired  at  and  wounded   a  yak,  but  approaching  darkness  had 

*  At  lis  eastern  extremity  this  rangte  is  joined  almost  at  right  angles  by  another 
nn^  ocMaing  from  tJio  W.S.W»,  equally  snowy,  thonE;:h  perhaps  leaa  continued.  In  its 
ioathem  part  this  range  is  ci»tili;^oiiii  with  the  desert  of  Xortiicrn  Tcjaidani,  near  Luke 
Ike-TsaidaiDin-nor.  Neither  of  thei^  snowy  ranges  liayiDg  aoy  genend  name  among 
ihe  local  inhabitanUj  whe  only  diBlinguisli  cirtain  porta  of  the  moimtams  and  their 
chief  peaks,  Prejevalsky  claiming^  the  rights  fif  »  first  discoverer,  chrietenod  one — that 
extending  along  the  mnln  axia  of  tho  Xan-^han — Humboldt  range,  nml  the  other, 
porpeadicnlar  with  it  Hitter  range.  Dietinci  peaks  of  Humboldt  range  attain  au 
devation  of  19,000  fe^:t,  and  perhaps  more  in  ita  central  and  eastern  parts, 

f  Tho  limit  of  Yegetatiou  on  Huinbokli  range  lies  nt  an  elevation  of  13,700  feet  on 
th©  nortljem*  and  15,000  feet  on  tbe  Bouthcrn  aide.  The  Bnow-linc  is  TOO  feet  higher 
on  either  side. 

X  Ccrvus  dWirostris  n,  sp. 

J  Megitlopcrdrix  thibetanus.  Its  general  name  in  Asia  is  utiar^  a  word  of  Kirghiz 
or  Torldsh  origin ;  the  Mongola  call  it  fuiillh,  and  tho  Tibetans  ktm*j-mo.  There  aro 
two  other  varieties  of  this  bird  foutid  in  the  Himulja  and  Altai  MeuntainSi  bat  the 
httbits  of  life  and  call-note  of  all  three  are  the  same. 


220 


PREJEVALSKY'S  JOURNETS  AND  DISCOVERIES 


obliged  him  to  almiidon  the  pTirsnit,  The  next  daj,  he  and  a  com- 
panion Yegoroff,  set  ont  to  renew  the  search ;  they  came  upon  tho 
track  of  the  wounded  yak,  showing  that  it  had  climhed  a  mountain 
ridge  and  descended  the  southern  slope.  The  hunters,  excited  ^v^th  tho 
chase,  followed,  A  mile  or  two  beyond  tho  pass  they  came  across  a  herd 
of  wild  sheep,  into  which  they  fired  a  Tolley,  and  while  Kalminin  went 
to  aseertain  if  any  had  fallen,  YegorofF  continued  his  pursuit  of  the  yak. 
In  the  meantime,  Kalminin  unexpectedly  shot  a  kulan  or  wild  donkey, 
and  haTing  don©  this,  he  returned  to  tho  spot  where  he  had  parted  with 
Yegoroff  and  shouted*  EeceiTing  no  answer,  and  thinking  it  possible 
his  eompanioB  hEid  gone  straight  back  to  camp,  Kalminin  retraced  his 
steps  and  joined  his  party  at  ton  that  night.  The  nert  morning,  the 
prolonged  absence  of  Yegoroff  caused  much  anxiety,  and  a  search  party 
was  organised*  For  some  miles  they  followed  the  tracks  of  the  hunter, 
hut  at  last  lost  all  trace  of  him  in  tho  maze  of  crags  and  defiles.  For 
£vG  days  they  continued  their  search,  Prejevalsky  himself  assisting. 
They  climbed  the  rocks  in  all  directions,  thoy  fired  off  their  guns,  and 
then  concluding  Yegoroff  had  perished  from  exhaustion,  with  heavy 
hearts  they  broke  up  their  encampment  and  resumed  their  march. 

They  had  gone  about  17  miles^  when  the  leading  Cossack  discerned, 
by  the  aid  of  a  field -glass,  a  man  coming  down  the  mountains  towards 
their  caravan ;  two  of  the  party  set  out  at  a  gallop  to  meet  him,  and 
within  half  an  hour  they  had  brought  back  with  them  the  unfortunate 
Yegoroff.  He  couldl  hardly  8t4ind ;  his  face  was  sunken  and  nearly 
black,  his  eyes  bloodshot,  his  lips  and  nose  swollen ;  he  wore  nothing 
but  a  shirt  J  and  his  feet  were  bound  in  rags.  When  he  had  sufficiently 
recovered,  he  related  how  he  had  come  upon  the  yak  ;  how  he  had 
wounded  him  a  second  time,  how  he  had  again  pursued  him  till  dark, 
and  how,  when  he  had  turned  his  steps  homeward,  he  had  taken  the 
wrong  directioD,  and  when  morning  dawned  he  had  found  himself  on 
the  Syrten  plain,  He'told  too  how  he  had  made  his  way  again  to  the 
mountainsj  hut  instead  of  going  north  had  gone  west,  and  how  he  had 
kept  himself  alive  by  chewing  rhubarb  leaves  and  drinking  water ;  he 
had  also  shot  partridges,  and  eaten  them  raw.  On  the  fifth  day  he 
came  upon  a  herd  of  Mongol  cows,  but  there  were  no  herdsmen  to  be 
seen,  they  having  fled  probably  at  the  eight  of  a  stranger ;  he  wanted 
milk»  but  alaSj  the  cows  were  all  dry ;  his  strength  was  sensibly 
diminishing,  and  he  knew  that  in  a  day  or  two  he  must  die  from  t^heer 
exhaustion ;  he  determined  therefore  to  walk  to  the  very  last,  and  then 
by  tho  side  of  a  spring  wash  his  shirt  and  die.   Thus  ended  Yegoroff*8  tale. 

The  expedition  now  entered  the  Tsaidani  plains,  an  expanso  of  salt- 
marsh  and  clay  flats,  dotted  with  lakes,  and  elevated  about  10,000  feet 
above  the  sea.    Its  ^Mongol  inhabitants*  received  the  Russians  well, 

*  Tlie  MongoU  of  Tsaidam  cultivate  patcbee  of  the  soil  and  o1>tDiii  gmxl  craps  wherf* 
there  is  irrigatLon* 


I 


IN  CENTRAL  ASU.  221 

bnt  feared  to  show  them  the  direct  road  to  Tibet,  lest  they  should  incur 
pimishmeiit  from  the  Chinese  authorities.  The  expedition  had  therefore 
to  take  a  circuitous  route  along  northern  Tsaidam,  which  led  them  into 
the  track  followed  by  Prejevalsky  in  1872-3.  The  native  princes, 
acting  doubtless  by  orders  from  Peking,  refused  Prejevalsky  both  guides 
and  provisions,  and  it  cost  him  no  little  trouble,  and  he  had  even  to 
resort  to  threats  to  obtain  these.  At  length  he  reformed  his  caravan, 
and  prepared  to  enter  the  promised  land,  the  mysterious  realm  of 
Tibet. 

Northern  Tibet*  offers  no  exception  to  the  well-known  grandeur  of 
Asiatic  scenery.  No  other  part  of  the  world  has  anything  to  compare 
with  its  gigantic  tablelands,  13,000  to  15,000  feet  above  the  sea,  its 
stupendous  mountain  ranges,  not  lofty  compared  with  the  general 
elevation  of  the  country,  yet  bordered  by  the  wildest  alps. 

But  few  Europeans  have  crossed  its  solitudes  and  these  have  followed 
the  routes  taken  by  the  Buddhist  pilgrims  from  Sining  to  Lh4sa.t  Un- 
fortunately none  of  them  left  a  detailed  geographical  description  of  his 
journey  through  Northern  Tibet.  Far  more  important  in  this  respect 
were  the  services  rendered  by  Pundit  Nain  Singh  in  1873,  when  he 
accomplished  his  remarkable  journey  from  Ladakh  to  Lhasa  vi&  Tengri- 
nor,  took  497  altitudes,  and  determined  the  latitudes  of  276  points.^ 
Another  pundit  proceeded  from  Eastern  Nepaul  to  Tengri-nor,  skirted 
its  northern  shore,  and  returned  by  way  of  Lhdsa  to  India. 

Prejevalsky  himself  on  his  first  expedition  penetrated  200  miles  into 
Northern  Tibet  by  the  same  pilgrims'  road,  as  far  as  the  confluence  of 
the  Napchitai-ulan-murren  with  the  Mur-ussu,  the  head-waters  of  the 
Yaiig-tse-kiang. 

In  1879-80  he  again  made  his  way  to  the  upper  Yang-tse-kiang, 
oros^ed  this  river  and  the  Tang-la  range,  besides  exploring  the  upper 
Hoang-ho  to  the  south  of  Koko-nor.§ 

*  PrejeTaUky  iacludes  within  Tibet,  viewed  in  its  widest  physioo-geographical 
aspect,  the  region  to  the  north  bounded  by  the  Altyn-tagh,  the  basin  of  Koko-nor  and 
the  Tangntan  country,  all  of  which  lie  outside  Tibet  proper,  but  from  the  similarity 
of  their  physical  conditions  may  be  included  in  it 

t  In  1624  the  Jesuit  Antonio  Andrada  set  ottt  from  Agra  and  reached  the  sacred 
shores  of  Lake  Mansarowar ;  thence  he  made  his  way  to  Rudok,  and  eventually  by 
way  of  Tangut  to  China  (Markham's  *  Tibet,*  p.  Ivi.)-  In  1661  the  missionaries 
Grueber  and  D*Orville  passed  through  Lhasa  to  Agra  on  the  Ganges.  Between  1723- 
1736  the  Dutchman  Samuel  van  der  Putte  travelled  from  India  to  Peking  througli 
IMsa  and  back  again  to  India;  and  lastly,  in  1845,  the  missionaries  Hue  and  Gabet 
reached  the  capital  of  the  Tale  Lama  from  Northern  China,  and  returned  through 
Southern  China  to  Canton. 

X  Sec  *  Journal  R.G.8.,'  vol.  xlvii.  pp.  86-136. 

§  Eastern  Tibet  was  also  visited  in  1862  by  the  Abb^  Desgodins,  who  went  from 
Bathang  to  Cha-mou-to  (Chiamto)  (See  *  Proc.  R.G.S.,'  1885  and  1886.  '  La  Thibet  d*apres 
la  correspondance  des  Missions ') ;  and  Pundit  A— k,  during  his  four  years*  travels, 
succeeded  in  making  his  way  from  Lhdsa  to  Tyingali  (Tengelik)  in  36^  N.  lat  and 
96°  E.  long.,  and  thenc^  through  Xorth- western  Tsiidam  to  Sha-chau. 


222 


fREJEVALSKrS  JOURNEYS  AND  DISCOVERIES 


I 


Meagre  as  our  geographical  information  is  concerning  Northera 
Tibet,  its  general  features  may  be  rongkly  sketched,  more  especially 
as  nature  has  fashioned  it  on  a  large  scale.  The  limits  of  our  plateau 
are  the  Kuen-lun  on  the  north,  and  the  northern  Himtilja  on  the 
south  ;  from  east  to  west  it  extends  from  the  Karakornm,  and  its  south- 
eastern continuations,  to  the  borders  of  Sze-chnen  and  Kan-su,  The 
eastern,  smaller  half  of  this  region  differs  widely  from  the  western. 
A  line  drawn  diagonally  from  Lake  Tengri-nor  to  the  sources  of  the 
Yellow  river  would  servo  to  EQark  the  division.  West  of  such  a  line 
lies  a  continuous  table  land  almost  without  relief,  and  having  no  waters 
flowing  towards  the  ocean  except  in  its  eastern  part.  East  of  this  line  « 
all  the  streams  belong  to  the  oceanic  watershed,  the  country  loses  its  f 
tableland  aspect,  and  now  and  again  presents  grandiose  alpine  scenery. 

The  whole  of  Tibet  may  from  the  diversity  of  its  topographical 
features  l^e  divided  into  three  parts  :^a  southern,  comprising  the  upper 
valleys  of  the  Indus,  the  head-waters  of  the  Sutlej  and  the  Brahmft- 
putra ;  a  northern,  presentiDg  a  continuous  tableland  ;*  and  an  eaatem^ 
containing  an  alpine  country  reaching  far  into  China  Proper.f  The 
Kuen-lun  on  the  north  and  the  Northern  Himalya  on  the  south  are 
its  repreeeutativo  chains,  but  neither  of  these  has  been  yet  fuUy  ex- 
plored, though  their  main  features  have  been  revealed  to  us  by  the 
Pundits  Nain  Sing  }  and  D.  in  the  case  of  the  Kortliem  Himilya,  and  ■ 
by  Fi-ejevalsky  in  the  central  parta  of  the  Kuen-liin.  f 

The  climate  of  Tibet  is  characterised  by  (1)  a  low  temperature  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year,  notwithstanding  its  southern  position;  (2)  a  pre- 
valence of  violent  storms,  especially  in  spring ;  and  (3)  by  excessive 
dryness  of  atmosphere  in  autumn,  winter,  and  spring — on  the  other 
hand,  by  an  ahundance  of  humidity  in  summer. § 

Turning  to  the  flora  and  fauna  of  Korthorn  Tibet,  we  again  meet 
with  a  strange  phenomenon,  a  poor  vegetation  contrasting  w^ith  large 
numbers  of  herbivorous  animals.  Of  trees  there  are  none,  and  Preje- 
valsky  only  found  three  kinds  of  bushes,  one  of  which — the  wdllow— 
grew  half  a  foot  in  height ;  the  others  lie  on  the  ground*  There  are 
three  or  four  kinds  of  grasses  along  the  banks  of  the  Mur-ussu  and  some 
other  valleys,  but  the  soil  is  for  the  most  part  bare,  or  only  occasionally 
covered  with  plants  about  an  inch  in  growth.     But  its  fauna  places 


*  I  am  informed  bj  Mi*  Ney  Elias  tbut  this  country  may  prove  to  be  momifcimuiw, 
just  as  parts  of  Nortb-eaat  Tibet  actually  visited  by  Prejevaltiky*  In  tljesame  way  tbo 
Pamir  uraa  tbougbt  to  bo  a  continuous  tableland  before  exploration  proved  it  to  be  a 
fiucceaaion  of  ranges, 

t  Itii  not  proposed  in  tlii»  paper  to  enter  into  the  orographical  details  commumcated 
by  Prejevalaky.    Thesti  might  form  the  subject  of  an  apfMjndii  in  a  separate  paper. 

I  Kain  Blrigli  measured  a  peak,  Gandizri  (i%  25,000  ft^et  higb^  and  Pundit  D.  saw 
equally  lofty  summits  aouth  of  Tengri*non — Juurual  K.G.S.,  vol.  xlvii.  p.  105. 

§  1  am  ioformcd  by  Mr,  Ney  Elias  that  the  humidity  noticed  in  Eastern  Tibet  and 
Kftu-su  docs  not  extend  to  Western  Tibet 


IK  CENTRAL  ASIA. 


Tibet  in  a  separate  zooiogical  category,  not  from  the  variety  of  species,* 
but  from  their  number  and  aize.  Probably  there  is  hardly  any  part  of 
the  world,  except  perhaps  Inner  Africa,  where  there  are  such  nmnbera 
of  wild  animals  as  are  met  with  on  the  solitudes  of  Northern  Tibet, 
Hare  in  one  day  the  traveller  may  see  hundreils  of  herds  of  yaks,  wild 
aeses,  and  antelope,  and  these  show'  no  signs  of  alarm  at  the  approach  of 
man.  Their  numbers  may  be  estimated,  not  by  tens  or  hundreds  of 
thunsands,  but  by  millions* 

The  first  place  among  them  is  taken  by  the  wild  yak,  which  may 
be  distinguished  from  the  domestic  species  by  many,  thougli  compara- 
tively minor,  zoological  marks,  and  may  be  calledt  as  Prejcvalakj' 
suggests,  Poejihagus  muius,  owing  to  the  fact  that  this  animal  never 
utters  a  sound,  while  its  domestic  congener  grunts  like  a  pig,  and  is 
therefore  named  by  Pallas  Bo9  grtmniens. 

Then  there  are  two  beautiful  kinds  of  antelope.f  two  kinds  of 
mountain  sheep4  frequenting  the  wildest  crags ;  lastly,  a  deer,  only 
found  in  small  numbers  on  some  of  tbo  mountains,  but  not  on  the 
plateau  itself. 

On  advancing  into  Tibet,  mraours  reached  the  expedition  that  the 
Tibetans  had  assembled  troops  to  prevent  their  approaching  the  capital. 
Neyertheless  they  advanced,  full  of  hope  and  scorning  every  inauspicious 
omen  and  report.  In  order  to  avoid  the  high  pass  over  the  Burhan 
Buddlia  they  turned  into  the  defile  of  the  Nomokhun-gol,  passing  along 
one  of  those  barren,  stony  plains  so  common  in  Central  Asia,§  margining 
with  a  wide  and  slightly  inclined  belt  the  foot  of  the  Bnrhan  Buddha. 
Here,  in  the  midst  of  tamarisk  bushes,  they  came  upon  patches  of  culti- 
vated land,  sown  with  barley,  a  rare  sight  in  a  country  inhabited  by 
Mongols,  who  hate  and  despise  agriculture.  Having  passed  the  Burhan 
Buddha  and  Shuga  ||  ranges,  the  last-named  by  a  pass  of  15,200  feet,  they 
entered  a  remarkable  valley,  only  thi-ee  miles  wide,  but  70  miles  long, 
forming  a  natural  causeway  between  two  huge  ranges.  At  either  end  of 
it,  passes  %   lead   southwards   across  the  range  named  by  Prejevalsky 

•  AU  the  mumnials  found  by  PrejeTtilaky  in  Nortbern  Tibet  belon;^  to  four  orders, 
distributed  on  follows :— Caraivora,  ^ ;  Gliresi  6  ;  Soliiiuiigula^  2 ;  HuxiiififUiLid,  1^. 

t  Tbe  orongo  (Panthoiops  Ih^gsoni)  and  iidft  (Prtxapra  pictk<mda}. 

X  The  wbite-brea«ted  argnli  (Otis  //-H/*/sonj  ?)  and  Kuko-yaman  {Ps^ifvia  Xttftoor). 

§  The  ocrurreDce  of  eimilar  jilaiiis  iti  Afghan iatiiii  hns  lK?en  expkincd  by  C  L. 
Gnedbuch,  Ike  geologist  on  the  Afghan  Boondaiy  Commiiibion,  in  the  following  wny : 
**  Nearly  all  the  great  valleys  of  Southern  Afgh&DistaD  are  covered  TirUh  poat-Pliocent' 
depomU  in  great  thickness ;  amongst  them  b  conspicuous  a  deposit  of  gravel  and 
iireguliir  fragments  of  rock  from  the  Hirrronnding  hills,  more  or  lets  firmly  eomen ted 
together  by  a  calcareona  or  argillaceous  matrix  forming  a  breccia.  After  ilia  integration 
has  taken  ]ilace  on  the  snrfacc  of  this  deposli,  t\w  prevailing  Band«eharged  stonnB 
ffinuHre  such  decomposed  niat*?rbl^  leaving  the  larger  particka,  namely,  th<i  pebbles  and 
sogoliir  rock  frogmentSf  behind^  producing  wide  spreads  of  those  Btoije-»trt?wn  plains, 
chanLctenstic  of  this  part  of  Asia,  and  commonly  termed  dasht  by  the  natives." 

H  Described  in  Prejevalsky's  book,  *  Mongoliii,  &c-/  voL  ii.  chap.  (1, 

^  Chium-ChiuTO  is  the  name  of  the  eastern  pass,  16^300  feet»  Anghir-dakeliin  (A— k's 


mm 


224  . 


PREJEVALSKY'S  JOURNEYS  AND  DISCOVERIES 


"Marco  Polo."  Their  outward  track  lay  by  the  eastern  pass,  their 
return  journey  by  the  weBtem.  They  were  now  fairly  on  the  plateaa 
of  Northern  Tibet,  and  for  tho  remaindor  of  their  journey  in  that  countr^^ 
never  descended  below  14,000  feet.  Hero  their  difficnliies  were  great. 
The  guide  refused  to  show  theoi  tho  way,  or  probably  did  not  know 
it ;  tho  weather  turned  cold,  with  continued  enowfalls,  though  it  was 
only  the  middle  of  October,  and  their  camels  and  horses  could  find 
nothing  to  eat ;  the  artjoh  l>ecame  damp  and  refused  to  bnrn,  and  thei^ 
was  every  prospect  of  an  early  winter.  It  required  some  resolution  on 
the  part  of  the  leader  of  the  expedition  and  hie  men  to  persevere. 
Difficulties,  however,  could  not  daunt  them,  and  they  all  as  one  man  h 
said,  *'  Come  what  may^  we  will  go  forward."  ( 

They  still  advanced  in  the  same  south-westerly  direction  towrards 
the  Koko-shili  or  Blue  range,*  visible  as  a  long  wall  on  the  horizon. 
After  tw^o  days  more  of  bad  weather,  tho  snn  ahone  out  brilliantly,  but 
the  glare  from  the  snow  caused  ophthalmia  to  men  as  well  as  animals, 
and  one  of  their  sheep  became  totally  blind.  But  there  were  sjTnptoms 
of  a  change  for  the  better,  and  the  severe  cold  they  hsd  so  recentl}'^ 
experienced  had  been  exceptional.  After  they  had  extricated  them- 
selves— not  without  difficulty,  for  they  had  no  guide — from  the  Koko- 
ehili  Mountains^  the  weather  became  warmer,  and  the  snow  melted  off  H 
the  southern  slopes, 

Btjfore  reaching  the  next  parallel  range,  the  Dumbure.f  they  crossed 
a  plain  15,000  feet  above  tho  sea,  studded  with  lakelets  fed  by  springs, 
where  the  sandy  soil  supports  a  scanty  vegetation  consisting  of  mingled 
alpine  and  steppe  forms*  Their  next  march  was  most  difficult,  for  they 
had  not  only  to  cross  the  main  axis  of  the  Dumbure  and  two  of  its 
ramifications,  but  to  traverse  intermediate  tracts  of  half-frozen  marsh 
land.  Having  at  last  extricated  themselves  from  these  mountains,  they 
arrived  on  the  banks  of  the  Mur-ussu*  Hero  they  halted  for  tw^o 
days,  before  ascending  its  valley,  by  a  well-worn  track  taken  by  the 
LhEksa  pilgrims.  But  this  disappeared  altogether  after  about  twenty 
miles,  and  they  had  again  to  report  to  scouting  in  order  to  find  the 
road.     Fortunately,  they  were  by  this  time  so  experienced  in  local  land- 


AngliirtdkebiB)  tliRt  on  the  west  A — k  also  gives  thin  name  AngkiMflkahin  to  a  long 
ningeljiDgeajjt  and  vmet,  piobtibly  identical  vvitli  Prejfcfvalfeky'B  "Marco  Fcslo  "*  rajigK, 
He  dcilTes  this  name  from  u  medlcimil  herb  used  for  burning  as  incense,  Cf.  *  B«port 
on  the  Explorations  in  Grtat  Tibet  and  Mongolia,'  p.  42. 

*  The  Koko-shili  m  a  ^est4^rlj  ooutinuution  of  tli©  Baian-kara-ula.  It  Btretcbca 
from  the  point  tit  which  the  expoditicn  cioMod  it  for  400  tnikei  due  we^t.  Its  height 
abovo  the  plain  iw  only  between  1000  mud  2000  ft*t,  but  tb<j  plain  itself  is  1*1,000  feet 
above  sea-leveh  A — k'a  *'  Khokliosili,"  at  tlic  point  wbtro  he  croesed  it,  io  35*^  10'  37" 
N»  !at.  The  height  of  the  pasu,  bb  measured  by  boiliDg  wa(er»  was  13,430  feet,  Cf. 
Eeport,  p.  41.  His  "Khokbo«ili"  lies  to  ibe  ouulh  of  the  Ma-chu  river  (Prejevalaky'i 
Na  pchitai-uilan'nmrren) . 

t  A— k*B  "  Dung^bnra/' 


IN  CENTRAL  ASU.  925 

marks,  that  they  had  no  difficulty  in  hitting  off  the  right  line.  But 
the  severe  marching  had  told  on  the  camels  and  horses;  four  of  the 
former  and  one  of  the  latter  were  disabled,  and  it  was  necessary  to 
reduce  the  number  of  loads.  A  cache  was  therefore  made  in  a  natural 
valley  in  the  mountains,  where  some  of  their  heavier  baggage,  including 
the  skins  of  animals,  was  left  to  be  called  for  on  their  return.  This 
was  satisfactorily  accomplished,  and  the  expedition  again  pushed 
forward.  But  toils  and  hardships  began  to  tell  on  all  the  men^  who  not 
only  felt  the  usual  effects  of  travel  at  great  heights,  loss  of  strength, 
giddiness,  shortness  of  breath,  sometimes  palpitations  of  the  heart  and 
general  lassitude,  but  one  or  other  of  the  Cossacks  was  always  ailing 
with  cold  or  headache.  Happening  upon  the  tracks  of  a  caravan  that 
had  recently  passed  and  trodden  down  the  snow,  they  were  able  to  cross 
the  Tang-la  Plateau,  which  lay  like  a  mighty  swelling  in  front  of  them, 
crowned  in  the  far  distance  with  a  long  chain  of  snowy  summits.  But ' 
first  they  forded  the  Mur-ussu,  the  water  only  two  and  a  half  feet  deep, 
being  at  its  lowest,  and  the  ice,  though  strong  enough  to  bear  a  man, 
would  not  support  an  animal. 

The  pass  over  the  Tang-la  is  16,700  feet  of  absolute  height,  yet 
only  2100  feet  above  the  valley  of  the  Mur-ussu,  and  2000  feet  above 
that  of  the  Sang-chu  flowing  at  the  foot  of  its  southern  slope.  Yet  the 
ascent  of  this  plateau  from  the  north  is  80  miles  long  and  the  descent 
50  miles.*  Towards  the  west  of  the  caravan  road,  the  Tang-la  is  still 
loftier,  and  its  snowy  peaks  f  stand  closer  together  than  towards  the  east. 

In  this  direction  too,  i.  e.  towards  the  east,  the  range  runs,  according 
to  hearsay  reports,  for  130  miles  as  a  snowy  ridge,  and  possibly  the 
Tang-la  itself,  together  with  its  accompanying  plateau,  continue  east- 
wards, though  on  a  smaller  scale,  to  the  Ein-sha-kiang,  or  Upper 
Yang-tse-kiang,  where  this  river  has  a  due  southerly  course.  And  if 
such  be  the  case,  the  Tang-la  range,  like  the  Baian-kara-ula,  divides  the 
sources  of  the  greatest  rivers  of  Eastern  Asia,  the  Yang-tse-kiang  on  one 
side,  the  Gamboja  and  Salwin  on  the  other.t 

*  Equal  to  a  rise  of  one  foot  in  26  miles  on  the  north,  and  one  foot  in  40  miles  on 
X  the  south.    The  Tang-la  might,  therefore,  be  easily  crossed  by  a  railroad. 

t  The  snowy  peaks  seen  by  Prejevalsky  on  the  Tang-la  were  at  least  19,000  to  20,000 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  the  snow-line  is  at  17,000  feet  on  the  northern  side  and  about 
17,500  feet  on  the  southern  side. 

X  All  the  rivers  of  the  northern  slope  of  the  Tang-la  cerfainly  join  the  Mur-ussu, 
which  has  its  source  here.  From  the  southern  slope  of  the  western  Tang-la,  accoiding 
to  the  information  collected  by  Prejevalsky,  flows  the  river  Zacha-Sanpo  falling  into 
Lake  Mitlk-jansu  (probably  the  Chargut-cho  of  Nain  Singh).  This  lake  is  also  the 
reservoir  of  other  streams,  which  are  themselves  fed  by  lakes  lying  south  and  west 
along  the  northern  slope  of  the  Northern  Him^lya  range.  Lake  Mityk-jansu  or 
Chargut-cho,  sends  its  surplus  drainage  to  the  east  by  a  river  entering  Lake  Amdo- 
t&onak,  and  from  this  agnin  issues  another  river  called  Nnp-chu  by  Tibetans  and 
Kara-ussu  by  Mongols.  This  river,  known  in  its  lower  course  as  the  Lu-tse-kiang 
(Tibetan  Nge-kio)  and  other  names,  appears  in  Indo-China  as  the  Salwin. 

In  this  way,  if  there  really  be  this  connection  between  LiJce  Mityk-jansu  and  the 


PREJKVALSKrS  JOURNEYS  AND  DISCOVERIES 

Tlie  inb 111 >i tail ta  t>f  these  platcraiix  were  Ycgrais,*  tbo  first  Been  fiinc50 
the  expedition  left  Tsaidam,  aTid  Goliki^f  two  TaBgiitaii  trthets  known 
Tinder  the  general  name  of  Sok-pa.  The  Yegrais  nomadi&e  in  the  I'ang-la, 
moving  from  place  to  place  according  to  the  supply  of  food  for  their 
cattle ;  tho  camping  groTinds  of  the  Gollki  arc  on  the  Bine  river,  much 
Mow  it^  confluence  with  tho  Napchitai-ulan-mnrren,  Prejc  valsk}'  saw 
nothing  of  tho  Goliki,  hut  came  acrosB  the  Yegrais  while  ascending  the 
Tang-la,  and  afterwards  fought  them  when  they  attempted  to  close  the 
pass  to  his  caravan.  Their  appearance  closely  resembles  that  of  all 
the  tribes  of  Northern  Tibet,  though  there  are  probably  slight  differenoee 
between  them,  but  not  enough  to  be  distingiiiahed  by  a  paesing 
traveller*  Their  long,  matted,  black  locks  fall  on  their  sboulders, 
their  whiakers  and  beard  are  scanty,  their  face  and  head  angular,  their 
complexion  dark,  their  dress  dirty.  They  carry  a  «word  thrust  into  their 
Ijelt,  a  gun  of  the  old  matchlock  typo  over  their  shoulders,  a  lance  in 
their  hands,  and  are  always  on  horsebaek.  They  are  spoilt  by  the  sub- 
mifisiveness  of  the  Mongol  pilgrims  whom  they  plunder  as  well  as  every 
caravan  eoniing  from  and  going  to  Lhilsa.  They  live  in  black  tents 
made  of  the  hair  of  the  yak.  Their  occnpations,  l>esides  those  of  a 
predatory  kind,  are  bunting  and  cattle-breeding.  Their  domesticated 
animal  a  are  the  yak,  sheep,  and  a  few  horses.  They  number  400  tents 
or  2iH}0  souls  of  both  sexes.  After  his  engagement  with  the  Yegrais 
Pi-ejevalfiky  came  to  some  warm  springs  on  the  south  side  of  the  Tang*la. 
One  of  these,  surrounded  by  si licious  crags  at  a  height  of  15,600  feet 
above  the  sea,  had  a  temperature  of  90^  Fahr.t  Within  the  rock  a  dull 
s50und  is  heard  continually  and  the  noise  made  by  the  water  is  like  the 
blows  of  a  hammer ;  by  their  side  is  a  funnel  in  the  rock  sending  forth 
suflfocating  steam. 

On  the  fifth  day  of  their  descent  from  the  Tang-la  the  exp€N3ition 
loft  its  plateau  and  arrived  at  [the  Sang-cbu  river  (14,700  feet),§  where 


more  westerly  lakes  as  shown  in  Nain  Siiij;li*s  route  map  (see  J^mrnal  ILG.S*,  vol.  xlvii. 
pp,  87  and  110),  the  eouroea  of  the  Salwin  [or  perhaps  tlio  Irawadi]  should  be  placed  od 
tbo  tftljleland  of  Northern  TiWt  in  83p  E,  long,  and  about  32^^  N.  kt.,  or  a  littJe  east  of 
the  meridian  of  the  sourcea  of  the  Yaru-Sanpo»  i.  e.  Upper  Brahmftputra,  If  this  should 
prove  to  be  tho  case,  both  these  rivere,  the  Solwin  [?  Iruwadi]  for  au  ijomeuse  extent  of 
their  upper  courso  aloug  the  j>lfttejiii  of  Tibet,  flow  from  west  to  tast  piirallel  with,  and 
at  no  grtat  diatancu  from,  one  nuuther,  parted,  however,  by  the  mighty  Northern 
Htnuilja  ehaiu. 

*  Cf.  *  Meagolia/  vol.  ii.  p.  151. 

t  The  Goliki  are  probably  tho  Koks  of  Abbe  Hue. 

X  The  lower  springs  are  nine  miles  from  the  upper  one  on  the  bnaks  aud  in  the  bed 
of  a  brook,  the  Tiing-chu,  which  also  recojvei  the  drainage  of  the  upper  apring*  Two 
of  them  throw  up  fuuntains  3  and  4  feet  high,  tlje  othera  issue  in  small  streams  with  a 
hissing  or  Vmbbliug  sound.  Tlic  uiaxLimum  tempers^ture  observed  at  the  lower  springs 
WB8  I2t  Fahr. 

§  The  B.iug-chu  fSows  into  the  Taag-chu,  called  by  the  Mongola,  Biij^yn-gob  atid 
this  latter  has  a  soath^eftateily  course  intothj  Nap-chu  or  Kara-nssu,    Tlie  valley  of 


J 


IN  CENTRAL  ASIA.  227 

they  met  with  the  first  encampments  of  Tibetans,  whose  black  tents 
were  scattered  about  the  valley,  among  herds  of  yak  and  flocks  of 
sheep. 

On  their  second  march  from  this  valley  they  learnt  that  the  Tibetans 
had  decided  not  to  allow  them  to  pass,  and  that  great  excitement  pre- 
vailed at  Lh4sa,  where  reports  were  circulated  that  the  Russians  were 
coming  to  steal  the  T41e  Lama  and  destroy  their  faith.  Pickets  had 
been  stationed  from  the  village  of  Napchu  on  the  frontier  to  the  pass 
over  the  Tang-la,  but  these  had  been  withdrawn  on  the  approach  of 
winter,  as  it  was  thought  that  the  expedition  had  been  deferred.  Now, 
on  its  sudden  appearance,  soldiers  and  militia  were  at  once  assembled  on 
the  frontier,  and  the  inhabitants  were  forbidden  on  pain  of  death  to  sell 
the  Russians  anything  or  enter  into  relations  with  them.  Two  officials 
with  an  escort  of  ten  soldiers  were  sent  from  Napchu  to  inquire  who 
they  were,  in  order  that  the  authorities  at  Lh&sa  might  be  at  once 
informed  on  all  points. 

Having  advanced  to  within  a  short  distance  of  the  village  of 
Napchu  *  and  met  the  Tibetan  officials,  Prejevalsky  halted,  and  here 
he  was  obliged  to  wait  until  an  answer  had  been  received  from  Lh&sa. 
On  the  sixteenth  day  the  answer  came,  positively  refusing  to  allow  them 
to  proceed.  And  thus  they  were  compelled  to  return  when  they  were 
within  170  miles  of  the  capital  of  Tibet. 

I  must  now  say  something  of  Prejevalsky 's  fourth  journey  to  Tibet, 
1883-1885.  Having  left  St.  Petersburg  in  August  1883,  he  travelled  to 
Eiachta,  where  he  finally  equipped  his  party,  numbering  altogether 
twenty  men,  well  practised  in  the  use  of  firearms. 

From  IJrga  he  again  crossed  the  widest  part  of  the  Gobi  to  Ala-shan, 
and  marched  thence  to  the  Chinese  city  of  Si-ning.  Early  in  May  1884 
he  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  Burhan-Buddha,  having  left  a  depdt  in 
Eastern  Tsaidam  of  all  his  superfluous  baggage  and  spare  camels  under 
the  charge  of  seven  Cossacks,  while  he  and  his  companions,  a  party  of 
fourteen,  started  to  explore  the  sources  of  the  Hoang-ho  or  Yellow  river. 
After  about  70  miles  of  marching  over  a  barren  plateau,  14,000  to 
16,000  feet  high,  they  reached  their  goal.  The  Hoang-ho  is  formed  by 
two  streams  flowing  from  the  south  and  west  out  of  mountains  scattered 


the  Sang-cha  i»  bordered  on  the  south  by  a  low  ridge,  the  Jugulun,  which  forms  the 
northern  margin  of  another  upland  extending  some  distance  to  the  south,  probably  to 
the  Sarotyn-Kansyr  (Sanden-Khansa  of  A — ^k's  map),  which  stands  on  the  south  bank 
of  the  Nap-chu.  This  snow  chain  (i.  e.  Samtyn-Eansyr)  is,  in  Prejevalsky's  opinion,  the 
easternmost  spur  of  the  Nien-chen-tang^la,  and  therefore  of  the  Northern  Him&lya. 
Samiyn-Khansyr  divides  the  waters  flowing  down  its  northern  slope  to  the  Kara-ussu 
and  down  its  southern  slope  to  the  Yaru-Sangpo,  i.  e.  Upper  Brahmaputra. 

*  Hue's  Naptchu,  A — ^k*8  Nag-chu,  situate  on  the  river  of  the  same  name.    Abbd 
Hue  was  fifteen  days  going  from  Napcliu  to  Lh^Ua. 


228 


PREJEVALSKV*S  JOURNEYS  AND  DISCOVERIES 


over  a  wklo  marsh j  plain  (40  miles  long  by  12  wido)^  known  under  the 
name  of  Odon-tala  (thousand  fiprlnga).  Here  tlio  Hoang-ho  appears 
as  a  very  modest  river,  divided  into  two  or  throe  channelB,  each  from 
70  to  90  ftset  wide  and  two  feet  deep  at  the  fords.  After  flowing  in  this 
way  fur  12  miles  it  passes  through  two  great  lakes^  the  Jarin  and  the 
Orin,  13,500  feet  above  the  eea ;  then  it  makes  a  sharp  elbow  to  avoid 
the  snowy  Anmeh-machin  range,  bursts  through  the  chains  of  the  Kuen- 
liln,  and  hurries  on  to  China  Proper. 

From  the  sources  of  the  Hoang-ho,  Prejovalsky  continued  southwards 
to  the  Blue  river,  the  Bi-chu  of  the  Tangutans,  passing  over  a  hilly 
plain,  for  the  moet  part  covered  with  tusaocky  marshes  overgrown  with 
stiff  wiry  grass.  He  crossed  the  waterparting  between  the  two  great 
rivers  of  China  at  a  height  of  14,500  feet,  and  on  entering  the  basin  of 
the  Bi-chu  cAme  to  a  very  different  countrj%  alpine  in  its  character,  but 
without  forests,  possessing,  however,  a  rich  and  varied  herbaceous  flora* 
Here  be  met  with  a  tribe  of  nomads  called  Kaniy*  who  received  him  in 
an  unfriendly,  tbongh  not  actually  hostile  way.  After  67  miles  of 
difficult  marching,  he  reached  the  banks  of  the  Blue  river,  flowing  at 
a  height  of  12,700  feet,  hemmed  in  by  mountains,  with  a  muddy,  rapid 
stream  of  great  depth.  Finding  it  impossible  to  cross  with  his  camels, 
he  retraced  his  steps  to  the  lakes  at  the  sources  of  the  Hoang-ho,  which 
he  explored  and  named.f  Xear  this  he  was  attacked  by  a  band  of  300 
mounted  Tangutau  robbers,  but  succeeded  in  dispersing  tliem,  and  made 
good  his  retreat  down  to  Tsaidam,  which  in  spite  of  its  unattractive 
appearance,  seemed  a  well-favoured  land  after  his  experiences  in  Northern 
Tibet.  Hence  he  marched  to  the  west  along  a  wide  valley  stretching 
for  150  miles  between  the  Chamen-tagb  on  the  north  ani  the  Kuen- 
lun  on  the  south,  and  rising  gradually  from  9000  feet  at  6az  to 
14,000  feet  at  its  western  extremity,  where  it  is  closed  by  a  range,  con- 
necting tho  Euen-lun  with  the  Altyn-taghp  This  valley  is  situate  in 
the  direction  of  the  prevailing  westerly  winds,  and  is  constantly  swept 
by  them.  Hence  Prejevalsky  gave  it  the  appropriate  name  of  "  Valley 
of  the  Winds.**  The  descent  from  it  to  Cherchen  in  the  Tarim  basin 
is  very  easy,  so  that  in  all  probability  it  was  the  highway  in  ancient 
times  between  Kboten  and  China.  Tho  Kuen-lun  was  found  to  cul- 
minate in  the  snowy  group  of  jing-ri,  in  meridian  90^,  with  20,000  feet 
of  absolute  elovationj  forming  the  centre  of  chains  to  the  east  and 
west,  to  %vhich  Prejevalsky  gave  the  following  names : — -*'  Marco  Polo," 
'*  Columbus,"  "  Mosco,"  with  its  peak  •*  Kremlin,"  20,000  feet,  and  •'  Con- 
jectural,"  with   its    rounded   summit  **  Shapka   Monomakh"   (Cap   of 


*  Kam,  or  KbDm,  is  the  name  of  tlie  provitiro  of  Eftstorn  Tiljet.  Nain  Siogli  cam© 
flcpoaa  a  predatory  tribe  named  *'  Kbatupa,"  who  bad  originally  come  from  tb©  cc»mitry 
north-east  of  Lbasa.    Cf*  Journal  R.G.B.,  toL  xlvii.  pp-  "^5  set^q,^  102. 

t  ^  Bufiniau"  and  '^  Expeditioo  "  lake,  hut  aee  autey  where  tbo  uative  names  are  taken 
from  hh  own  map. 


IN  CEyrRAL  ASU.  329 

Mononiacinis),  Between  the  Moeoo  and  Conjectnnd  ranges  lies  an 
exccjauielj  salt  lake,  free  from  ice  in  the  coldest  weather,  and  named 
hj  PrejeTalskj  **  The  Unfinasen,"  having  a  circnmfei^nce  of  about 
36  miles,  with  a  width  of  only  seven. 

Having  retained  to  his  depot  at  Gaz,  Prejevalsky  started  for  Lob- 
nor,  distant  168  miles,  across  an  absolutely  unexplored  plateau.  In 
revisiting  Lob-nor,  he  verified  his  previous  observations,  clearing  up 
doobts  expiessed  by  geographers  as  to  whether  the  waterspread  seen  by 
him  were  the  tme  Lob-nor  or  only  an  expansion  of  the  Tarim  before 
readiing  its  final  discharge.  He  concluded  that  Lob-nor  is  a  reedy  lake 
of  no  great  depth  surrounded  by  flat  shores,  the  haunt  of  prodigious 
numbers  of  waterfowl,  and  inhabited  by  a  few  hundred  human  beings, 
whose  halHts,  tenements,  and  mode  of  life  resemble  thoee  of  the  primitive 
lake  dweDers. 

Frejevalsky's  farther  journey  lay  along  the  southern  border  of 
Eastern  Turkistan.  He  visited  the  oases  of  Cherchen,  Eiria,  Nia,  and 
Khoten,  heard  of  the  buried  cities  which  flourished  3000  years  ago  and 
are  now  almost  obliterated  by  the  moving  sands,  saw  more  snowy  peaks, 
and  made  a  short  incursion  into  the  Kuen-lun,  but  being  opposed  by 
the  Ghineae,  could  not  proceed  to  any  great  distance. 

Note. 

With  leferenoe  to  the  last  part  of  his  joarney  General  Prejevalskj  has  been  good 
enoogh  to  communicate  the  following  particalara  to  me  by  letter. 

1.  Changes  in  existing  maps, 

(a)  The  Khoten  river  makes  no  bend  to  the  west  bat  has  a  nearly  meridionid 
oomae  from  south  to  north  (our  iUaerary  from  Khoten  to  the  oonfluence  of  the 
Kboten-daria  with  the  Tarim  measures  327  miles). 

Q})  There  is  no  such  lake  as  Yashil-^ul,  nor  any  lakes  along  the  course  of  the 
Khoten-daria. 

(c)  Thirty  miles  below  the  fork  of  the  Eara-kash  and  Khoten  rivers,  a  low,  narrow, 
and  absolutely  barren  ridge,  having  an  apparent  elevation  of  only  500  feet,  stretches 
frcHn  fortMaiml-bashi  in  this  direction  (Le.  towards  the  Khoten-daria). 

2.  More  Details. 

Forty-three  miles  below  Khoten,  following  the  Khoten^aria,  otherwise  known  as 
the  Yunm-kaah,  lies  the  oasis  of  Tavek-k^,  inhabited  by  about  500  families,  not 
marked  on  any  map.  According  to  native  information  the  population  of  the  Khoten 
oasis  (including  Khoten,  Kara-kash  and  Sam-pul)  numbers  600,000. 

In  September  the  Khoten  river  is  an  insignificant  stream,  70  to  100  feet  wide 
and  6  inches  to  a  foot  in  depth.  After  a  devious  course  of  17  miles  below  Mazar. 
tagh  ridge  it  dries  up,  only  leaving  pools  here  and  there'  along  its  sandy  bed.  In 
summer,  however,  there  is  an  abundance  of  water  and  the  river  then  reaches  the 
Tarim. 

On  either  side  of  the  Khoten  river  are  drift  sands  the  whole  way  from  Khoten  to 
the  Tarim.  The  valley  of  the  former  river  is  about  three  miles  wide  and  indistinctly 
defined ;  on  the  lower  river  there  are  no  inhabitant& 

No.  IV.— Apbil  1887.]  s 


280 


PREJEVALSKTS  JOURNEYS  AND  DISCOVEEIES 


The  flora  and  fauna  here  are  extremely  poor  \  Khoten  has  aa  elevation  of  4100 
feet,  aod  the  confluence  of  the  Khoten  river  with  the  Tarim  2800  feet,  12  miles 
below  the  junction  of  the  Yarkand  and  Aksu  darias.  Here  the  Tarim  has  a  width  of 
about  200  yards  at  low  water,  and  a  depth  of  not  less  than  five  teet.  The  whole  of 
the  Tarim  in  navigable  for  small  river  steamers  from  the  confluence  of  its  upper 
waters  to  Lob-nor.  The  first  irahabited  parts  of  the  Aksu  oasis  occur  on  the  left  bank 
of  its  river,  18  miles  from  the  ford  across  the  Tarim  coming  from  Khoten.  And  it 
is  exactly  ^^  miles  farther  to  the  to^n  of  Aksu,  The  Ak^u  oasis  has  a  population 
of  56,000  families,  according  to  cative  information,  and  ia  the  most  fertile  part  of 
Kashgaria. 

After  the  jmper, 

Mr.  H,  H,  Ho  WORTH,  m.p,,  said  he  had  sj^ent  many  years  hv  wandering 
over  the  terrihly  dry  and  arid  history  of  the  districts  described  in  the  ffapcr.  It 
was  early  in  the  thirteenth  century  when  Jinghis  Khan,  the  greatest  of  all  Asiatic 
conquerors,  and  probably  the  greatest  man  the  Asiatic  world  ever  produced,  set  out 
to  conquer  the  country  described  in  the  paper,  then  known  as  Tangut,  and  spent 
four  summers  in  laying  it  waste.  His  victims  were  numbered  by  millions,  and  it  is 
difficult  to  understand  how  it  could  have  been  so  ]x>pulous,  unless  its  physical  oon- 
ditiona  have  greatly  altered.  Jiughis  Khau  made  himself  master  of  all  the 
Turkish  tribes  which  then  occupied  Central  Asia,  and  then  made  his  famous 
expedition  to  the  west,  making  the  valley  of  the  Black  Irtish,  so  graphically 
described  in  the  i>apor,  the  rendezvous  of  his  trooi>3.  At  the  other  end  of  the 
district  described  in  the  paper  is  the  great  bend  of  the  Yellow  river  enclosing  the 
country  of  the  Mongol  tribe  called  Ortus  or  Ordus,  so  called  from  their  having  been 
the  guards  and  guardians  of  the  Ordu,  or  special  encampment  and  household  of 
Jinghis  Khan.  On  his  death  they  were  entrusted  with  the  care  of  his  tent  and  his 
body.  Only  three  or  four  years  ago  the  great  French  naturalist  P^re  David  made 
an  expedition  into  their  country,  and  found  that  they  were  in  possession  of  a 
silver  box  in  which  they  said  they  had  the  bones  of  Jinghis  Khan.  When 
Jinghis  Khan  had  conquered  the  whole  of  zlsia  he  performed  one  of  tho  greatest 
feats  in  connection  with  the  movement  of  human  races  that  was  ever  known :  he 
shifted  the  whole  of  the  tribes  of  Central  Asia  very  far  to  the  west.  When  he  died 
he  left  the  Mongols  in  charge  of  tho  district  still  called  Mongolia,  which  had  pre- 
viously been  largely  occupied  by  Turks,  and  it  was  very  singular  that  one  of  these 
Turkish  tribes  with  which  he  was  specially  in  contact,  called  Kirais,  was  still  found 
north  of  the  Tliian  Shan.  This  was  the  same  tribe  that  was  mled  by  Prester 
John.  Some  of  the  Kimis  were  transplanted  into  the  Usbeg  country,  at  the  same 
time  the  Turkish  people  who  occupied  the  whole  district  south  of  the  Thian  Shan 
was  pushed  very  much  to  the  south,  so  that  along  the  boniers  of  Tibet  there 
were  still  the  descendants  of  the  Buddhist  Turks  who  lived  in  that  district  when 
the  Chinese  pilgrims  jessed  that  way,  and  who  were  mentioned  by  Marco 
Polo.  The  Tibetans  call  them  Horpa.  When  in  1368  the  Chinese  drove  the 
Mongols  out  of  China  a  certain  number  took  refuge  in  the  valleys  of  Tsaidam, 
&c.  Another  migration  took  pbce  in  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century 
when  a  large  number  of  the  Kalmuks  were  induced  to  migrate  down  to  Lob- 
nor.  In  tho  last  century,  when  the  great  struggle  took  place  between  tho  civil 
and  religious  powers  in  Tibet,  the  Dalai  Lama  was  so  hard  pressed  that  lie  sent 
for  these  Kalmuks  to  help  him,  and  it  wag  with  their  assistance  that  he  drove 
out  tho  civil  authorities.  He  had  been  much  struck  with  one  of  the  pictures 
shown  lo  the  meeting  of  a  most  desolate  part  of  tho  desert  which  was  known  among 
the  Mongols  in  the  fourteeuth  century  as  the  "  Pield  of  White  Eoues,*^  which  waa  an 


■ 


IS  CENTRAL  ASIA.— DISCOSSrON. 


sii 


cxtTemelj  expreasive  descriptioa  of  tbo  terrible  ws^te.  With  regard  to  the  other 
cod  of  the  diatriot,  to  which  Prejevalsky  lad  referred,  he  might  mention  that  in  tbo 
S«ri«8  lakes  and  aUo  m  some  of  the  early  megalithic  remflicB  in  Brittauy  were  found 
some  little  axes  TOode  of  jade,  and  German  geologists  were  convinced  that  they  conld 
only  hare  come  from  the  valley  of  Khoten.  No  jade  was  found  in  Swxteerland, 
ifDcl  if  it  were,  there  was  nothing  there  to  triturate  and  grind  it  down  so  as  to  make 
polished  axes  with.  It  was  exceedingly  likely  that  these  small  jade  axes  were 
brought  from  Central  Aeia-  All  through  medieval  times  those  small  axes  wore  in 
use  among  the  Turkish  tribes. 

The  Chairman  (General  K.  Strachey)  said  he  was  prohahly  one  of  the  very  few 
tjettons  present  who  had  ftctnally  been  in  Tiliet,  though  he  had  not  been  very  far  into 
Tt«  It  was  now  thirty  years  since  he  was  there,  but  he  saw  enough  of  it  to  get  a  moro 
vivid  idea  of  the  nature  of  the  country  than  it  waa  possible  to  obtain  without  an 
aclnal  visit  to  it.  He  looked  forward  with  great  interest  to  the  full  narration  by 
General  Prejcvalsky  of  his  latest  journeys  in  the  northern  part  of  Tibet,  Tho 
aocount  thai  Mr.  Morgan  had  given,  combined  with  what  had  been  learned  from 
the  native  Indian  explorers  who  went  into  the  country  under  the  Indian  Survey 
BefMrttnent,  interested  him  greatly »  and  he  was  quite  satisfied  that  what  may  be 
regarded  as  Tibet  proper  certainly  extended  as  far  as  the  great  range,  which  w^as 
marked  on  the  map  as  the  Kuen-ldn,  and  where  travellers  from  the  north  llr&t  came 
tipon  very  liigh  mountains  and  an  arid  country.  The  region  to  the  north  of  this 
range  appeared  to  be  altogether  different  in  its  character  from  Tibet  proper.  It  had 
been  visited  by  General  Prejevalsky  and  was  described  by  A— k,  who  was  there  for 
several  months,  and  his  description  gave  a  fair  impression  of  what  the  coontry  was 
like.  The  j>eople  cultivated  wheat,  and  A — k  found  there  what  he  was  pleaxed  to 
call  ft  forest,  but  what  was  in  fact  a  thicket  formed  of  baehes  six  or  seven  feet  high, 
and  that  was  altogether  in  excess  of  any  arboreous  vegetation  to  be  found  in  Tibet 
proper.  To  some  extent  the  climate  also  seemed  to  have  changed*  In  Tibet  there  wens 
commonly  strong  westerly  winds,  but  A — k*s  account  was  that  the  prevailing  winds 
of  the  district  to  the  north  of  the  Kiieu-ldn  were  easterly  or  north-easterly.  The 
country,  too,  was  sjene rally  speaking  sandy  with  rounded  hills,  and  without  the  steep 
rocky  mountains  found  in  Tibet.  Although  Mr.  Morgan  had  spoken  of  luxuriant 
'Viegitation,  he  ventured  to  think  it  was  very  different  from  what  was  oonsidered 
Inxitnant  vegetation  in  any  other  part  of  the  world.  Enormous  crowds  of  animal 
life  had  been  mentioned,  but  he  entirely  disbelieved  anything  of  the  sort.  When 
a  traveller  was  wandering  over  a  stony  desert  the  appcamnce  of  a  comparatively  few 
wild  animals  would  no  doubt  engage  attention,  but  ho  altogether  doubted  that  there 
wat  any  large  amount  of  animal  life  there.  Mr.  Morgan  had  roferred  to  the  province 
of  Kansii,  and  stated  that  there,  there  was  really  fiuo  vegetation.  Ko  doubt  the  in- 
^uence  of  the  niiii*bearing  winds  from  tho  Pacific  was  felt  there;  but  Til>et  proper, 
60  Jar  as  ft  had  any  rain  or  moisture  at  all,  was  under  the  inGuence  of  the  winds  that 
came  up  from  the  Bay  of  Bengal.  Mr.  Howorth's  remarka  regarding  the  transfer  of 
the  population  in  the  time  of  Jcnghis  Khan  wero  citromely  interesting,  but  he 
doubted  if  any  such  change  of  climate  had  taken  place  since  Jenghis  Khan  made  his 
expeditions,  as  Mr.  Howorth  appeared  to  suggest.  80  far  as  India  was  concerned 
he  did  not  think  there  bad  been  any  oonsiderable  change  of  climate  within  the 
historical  period;  but  he  quite  admitted  that  there  was  evidence  of  great  changes 
ance  the  surface  had  taken  its  present  form.  He  remembered  Sir  Oeiry  Rawlioson 
and  his  brother  Canon  Rawlinson  giving  them  most  interesting  statements  regarding 
the  changes  of  climate  that  must  have  taken  place  in  the  country  about  the  lower 
part  of  the  Oxus ;  but  ho  did  not  think  that  similar  changes  had  taken  place  in 
northern  India.    Whether  they  had  occurred  in  the  Mongolian  plain  was  a  matter 

s2 


232 


PREJEVALSKT'S  JOUBNEYS,  LTC.— DISCUSSIOK. 


well  worthy  of  itiveatigation.  It  would  be  iotereBtiag  to  the  Fellows  present  to  be 
informed  that  at  the  present  time  sn  Enghfth  traveller  was  still  in  those  countries. 
Mr.  Carey,  a  gentleman  belonging  to  the  Indian  Civil  Service,  had  been  there  for  the 
last  two  years.  Ha  left  India  in  May  1885,  struck  northward,  and  descended  Into 
the  plaine  of  Turkistan  near  Khoton*  His  iilan  was  successfully  carried  out  during 
Au^uflt  and  Seplemher  1885,  and  resulted  in  more  than  300  miles  of  country  being 
traversed  which  had  never  before  been  visited  by  a  European  of  any  nationality. 
The  altitudes  on  this  section  of  the  journey  were  always  very  great,  the  track  being 
de«cribed  as  runninc;  usually  at  about  14^000  feet  above  the  sea,  while  one,  at  least, 
of  the  passes  crossed  waa  calculated  to  reach  19,000  feet.  In  desceQding  from,  the 
Tibetan  highlands  towards  Kiria,  an  extremely  difScult  defile  bad  to  be  passed, 
where  five  (lays  were  taken  up  in  making  good  a  distance  of  28  miles.  A  short 
stay  was  made  at  Kiria,  and  a  somewhat  longer  one  at  Kboten,  where  General 
Prejevalsky's  party  was  camped  on  Mr.  Carey's  arrival.  The  two  explorers, 
however,  did  not  meet,  the  former  being  then  just  on  the  point  of  starting  for  Aksu 
and  RoBsiaa  territory,  while  the  latter  had  to  fit  himself  out  with  a  new  caravan  of 
camels  for  crossing  the  desert  of  Kucbar.  From  Kucbar  he  made  a  freah  start, 
when  the  Tarim  was  followed  down  to  a  i)oint  where  it  turns  southward  towards 
Lake  LoK  Thua  the  whole  length  of  the  Tarim  had  been  explored.  The  country 
along  its  course  was  described  as  flat  and  reedy,  and  the  people  extremely  poor  and 
miserable ;  at  the  villages  near  Lob,  fodtler  waa  so  deficient  that  Mr,  Carey  had  to 
pitch  his  standing  camp  for  the  latter  part  of  the  winter  (about  February  to  April) 
at  a  village  called  Cbaklik,  some  distance  south  of  the  lake,  and  close  to  tbe  foot  of 
the  great  range  of  mountains  which  forma  the  northern  scarp  of  the  Tibetan  high- 
lands. This  long  halt  was  utilised  in  preparing  for  a  journey  southward  into  Tibet 
as  soon  as  the  season  should  permit ;  and  it  happened  eventually  that  a  new  depar- 
ture was  made  on  the  30th  April,  1886.  The  last  that  was  heard  of  Mr.  Carey 
appeared  to  have  been  in  May  last  year,  and  it  was  to  be  hoped  that  before  very  long 
some  more  intelligence  would  be  received  from  him.  They  were  indebted  to 
Mr.  Ney  Elias  for  this  account  of  Mr.  Carey*8  proceedings,  and  it  was  to  be  regretted 
that  Mr.  Elias  was  unable  to  be  present  at  the  meeting  to  throw  some  furtlier  light 
upon  that  country  of  which  he  probably  knew  more  than  any  other  EnglisliniaD- 

Mr.  E>  Delmab  MoitUAN,  in  reply,  said  that  Prejevalsky  had  dealt  at  aome 
length  with  the  question  of  the  violent  winds,  which  he  attributed  partly  to  local 
causes.  Prejevalsky  gave  full  details  of  the  extraordinary  numbers  of  wild  animals, 
•stating  that  he  Baw  them  not  only  on  his  last  but  also  on  his  previous  journey.  It 
was  owing  to  the  presence  of  these  vast  numbers  of  animals  that  travellers  were  able 
to  cross  the  high  plateaux  of  Northern  Tibet,  their  dung  being  the  only  fuel  to  be 
found  there,  and  he  believed  that  A — k  also  referred  to  the  subject.  When  winter 
commenced  with  its  usual  severity  large  herds  were  observed  by  the  traveller 
imigratiog  to  lower  and  warmer  regions  in  the  sonth-^st.  The  conditions  of  life  in 
Northern  Tibet  are,  moreover,  exceptionally  favourable  to  them :  Ist,  their  im- 
munity from  persecution  by  man;  2nd,  the  unlimited  range  over  which  they  are 
distributed ;  and  lastly,  the  absence  at  these  high  altitudes  of  the  insects  that 
torment  them  in  the  plains  below.  In  summer  there  waa  sufScient  humidity  to 
fiupi  ort  such  scanty  vegetation  as  Tibet  afforded  ;  at  other  seasons  it  wsa  quite  dry. 


(    233    ) 

PotanirCs  Journey  in  North-western  China  and  Eastern  Tibet. 

Wk  are  indebted  to  M.  Veniukoff  for  the  following  abstract*  of 
M.  Potanin's  lecture,  delivered  before  the  East  Siberian  Section  of  the 
Enssian  Geographical  Society,  on  his  travels  in  China,  at  Irkutsk,  in 
December  1886. 

Potanin's  expedition  started  from  Peking  in  1884,  with  the  intention 
of  crossing  the  desert  of  Ordo8(Ortu8)  to  Lang-chan,  capital  of  Kan-snh, 
and  penetrating  thence  as  far  south  as  possible.  The  X)art7  started  on 
Uie  13th  May  for  Eukn-khoto  (or  Kwei-hwa-cheng),  passing  over  the 
triple  chain  of  mountains  dividing  the  plain  of  Peking  from  that  on 
which  Euku-khoto  is  situate.  The  southernmost  of  these  three  ridges 
bears  the  Chinese  name  of  U-tai-shan,  *'  the  mountain  of  five  sacrificial 
altars,*'  after  the  group  of  five  peaks,  the  highest  of  which  is  10,000  feet 
above  the  sea,  a  height  not  exceeded  by  any  mountain  in  Northern  China. 
At  its  southern  foot  lies  a  valley  remarkable  for  its  Buddhist  monas- 
teries and  shrines,  one  of  which,  '*  Shing-tung-tze,"  is  entirely  made  of 
brass,  whence  its  name. 

Euku-khoto  is  the  depdt  for  the  Mongolian  trade  with  China.  It 
contains  200  tea-shops,  five  theatres,  15  temples,  and  six  Mongol 
monasteries.  Among  its  sights  are  the  Buddhist  convent  of  Utassa 
with  its  five  pinnacles  and  bas-reliefs,  the  convent  of  Fing-sung-si,  and 
a  temple  containing  a  statue  erected  in  honour  of  the  Chinese  general 
Pai-jin-jung,  who  avenged  an  insult  ofiered  to  the  Emperor  of  China. 

Leaving  Euku-khoto  the  expedition  crossed  the  Yellow  river  and 
entered  the  sand- wastes  of  Ordo8.t  The  Mongols  of  Ordos  are  ranged 
under  BbyetLX'koshung9  or  banners  under  seven  princes,  the  chief  authority 
being  vested  in  one  who  has  the  longest  family  tree  and  bears  the  title  of 
*'  Wang."  Their  holiest  place  is  a  collection  of  felt  tents  called  *'  Edjen- 
joro,"  reputed  to  contain  the  bones  of  Jenghiz  Ehan.  These  sacred 
relics  are  entrusted  to  the  care  of  a  caste  of  Darhats  numbering 
some  fifty  families.  Every  summer,  on  the  twenty-first  day  of  the 
sixth  moon,  sacrifices  are  ofiered  up  in  his  honour,  when  numbers  of 
people  congregate  to  join  in  the  celebration,  such  gatherings  being 
called  t6Ugan. 

On  the  southern  border  of  Ordos  are  the  ruins  of  Borobalgassun, 
said  to  date  from  Jenghiz  Ehan's  time.  From  this  place  the  expedition 
went  to  Lang-chau,  in  the  valley  of  the  Yellow  river,  surrounded  by 
fruit  gardens  which  continue  along  the  river  for  about  40  miles.  To 
the  south  lie  hills  covered  with  thick  deposits  of  loess,  and  the  river 
cuts  its  way  through  these,  forming  a  narrow  gorge.     Many  of  the 

*  TraiiBlated  by  Bfr.  E.  D.  Morgan. 

t  Fully  described  by  Prejevaldky  in  his  irork  *  Mongolia,'  ftc,  toL  i.  pp.  180-195 
€tpa»9iin, 

X  PrejeTaUky  says  six,  and  gives  their  names.    Cf.  *  Mongolia,*  d:c.,  vol.  i.  p.  144. 


234     POTANrN*S  JOURNEY  IN  NORTH-WESTEEN  CHINA  AND  EASTERN  TIBET, 


inliabitants  live  in  artificially  constructed  caves,  probably  since  tbe 
Mahommedan  insurrection  which  destroyed  so  many  villages  and  towns, 
and  laid  waste  the  coEntry. 

M,  Potanin,  who  was  accompanied  by  his  wife,  visited  the  territory 
of  the  Salars,*  a  Turkish  tribe,  which  has  preserved  its  written  and 
spoken  language  almost  unaltered.  This  jtribe  inbabits  twenty-four 
villages  near  Siun-hwa-ting,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Yellow  river. 
iVnothcr  in  teres  ling  people  visited  by  the  travellers  were  the  Amdos 
Mongols,  identical  with  the  "Taldi**  or  "Daldes"  of  Prejevalfiky,t 
scattered  over  a  tract  lying  between  the  meridians  of  Lang-chau  and 
Suh-chau,  and  partly  engaged  in  agriculture  and  horticulture.  Their 
language  is  a  mixture  of  Mongolian,  Turkish,  and  Chinese  words  ;  their 
houses,  food,  and  dress  are  Chinese,  while  the  costume  of  their  M'X)men^ 
especially  their  head-dress,  is  peculiar.  The  Amdos  are  governed  by 
elders,  whose  office  is  hereditary,  and  who  trace  their  descent  from  a 
half  historical,  half  legendary  prince,  Li-ching-wang,  whose  tomb  ia 
shown  on  the  bank  of  the  Sining-gol  near  Shangnlang.  Some  of  the 
Amdoe  profess  Islam,  others  retain  Lamaism. 

Potanin  and  his  travelling  companion  Skassi  liad  an  audience  of  the 
governor  of  Si-ning,  who  gave  them  a  free  pass  for  Eastern  Tibet. 
During  a  part  of  their  journey  they  had  an  escort  of  twenty  Tangutan 
or  Tibetan  soldiers  officered  by  a  monk. 

From  Si-ning  the  travellers  set  out  for  Mlng-chau,  passed  over 
so-called  iantjg  or  high  plateaux  (about  10,000  feet),  thickly  clothed 
with  herbaceous  vegetation.  To  the  west  of  their  road  rose  two  snowy 
g^ups  of  mountains — Amni  {-jakar  and  Amni-tungling.  The  town  of 
Gui-dui  on  the  Yellow  river,  the  fortress  of  Bounan,  and  the  monas- 
teries of  Labrang  and  Joni  were  successively  visited.  At  Labrang  they 
were  received  with  much  ceremony  by  the  chief  Lama  or  ge^en,  who, 
besides  his  spiritual  functions,  exercised  temporal  swa3*  over  the  district 
and  had  a  military  force  at  his  command.  Joni  is  the  residence  of  a 
Tangutan  prince  named  Joni-bombu, 

From  Ming-chau  the  expedition  turned  southward,  but  were  pre- 
vented from  penetrating  farther  than  Sung-pang-ting,  their  supplies 
having  come  to  an  end.  The  country  between  Ming-chau  and  Sung-pang* 
ting  is  described  as  a  labyrinth  of  steep  ranges  of  mountains  and  deep 
valleys,  where  the  views,  even  from  the  summits  of  the  passes,  are  too 
limited  to  enable  the  observer  to  form  any  clear  idea  of  the  general  direction 
of  the  ridgee  and  valle3rB*  The  scenery,  however,  offers  many  points  of 
interest.  Biver  torrents,  cascadea,  and  natural  terraces  lend  a  charming 
variety  to  the  landscape,  while  the  roads,  only  passable  for  pack  animals, 
here  clinging  to  the   rocky  steeps,   or  cut  into   the  rock  itself,  there 

•  Ct  ■  Mongolia,*  &c^  voU  iL  p,  149. 
t  Ct  ^MoogoliA,'  Ac  Tol.  a  pp.  G9  M^,  and  299  9eq, 

t  Or ** Amneb,'*  Le.  ** ancestors,**  held  vcred  by  the  TsngataiiE:  cC  'Mongolia,* 
Ac*,  Tol  iL  p.  76, 


I 


A  JOCRSET  DC  SOKTHESS  ASD  EASTEBX  IIAKCHUSU. 

sopported  on  irooden  props,  or  carried  acron  the  stream  on  rid^etj  bob- 
pension  bridges  wbich  rock  to  and  fro  under  the  laden  mnle,  remind  the 
traveller  of  the  wild  alpine  country  he  has  entered.  Bains  too  were 
freqnenty  for  the  Chinese  monsoons  deposit  their  moisture  on  these 
ranges  and  call  into  existence  a  Inxnriant  vegetation.  The  hiUs  from 
top  to  bottom  were  denselj  forested  with  conifers  in  the  npper  zone, 
deciduous  trees  and  bnshes  on  the  lower  slopes.  Here  were  observed 
three  kinds  of  maple,  the  lime,  the  hazel,  a  prickly-leaved  oak  like 
the  ikx  with  fruit  branches  like  the  strings  of  copper  coins  current 
in  the  country,  whence  the  CSiinese  caU  it  the  **  money-tree."  Here 
too  amidst  the  undergrowth  were  the  tall  stems  of  the  bamboo  and 
several  sub-tropical  ferns.  Maize  is  cultivated  in  the  deeper  vaDeys, 
and  round  the  villages  a  sheaf-like  variety  of  bamboo,  DUmpfnm 
KaM,^  yidding  a  frnit,  the  m-i»si  ;  the  soap-tree,  the  varnish-tree,  palms 
(CftoHeropt),  and  bananas  The  deciduous  woods  of  the  upper  belts  at  a 
hei^t  of  9000  feet  were  fringed  with  bushes  of  rhododendron  of  two  <»- 
three  kinds,  one  of  arborescent  growth,  with  a  trunk  eight  inches  in 
diameter.  In  the  alpine  zone  above  the  limit  of  the  forests,  four  kinds  of 
poppy  were  observed,  <me  yellow  (Cdikcatiia  %mlegrifoUd)j  two  blue,  and 
one  red* 

Sung-pang  is  an  important  trade  centre,  and  lies  on  the  road  taken  faj 
the  tea  caravans,  passing  from  Szechuen  to  Northern  Tibet.  Thj&Js  one 
of  the  three  main  roads  to  Lhasa  followed  by  the  pilgrims  frcnn  China 
and  Mongolia.  The  environs  of  Sung-pang  are  funous  for  their  monas- 
teries or  •*  bonbo,"  the  objects  of  veneratioai  to  tiie  Tangutan  population. 
Thirteen  miles  nortii-east  of  Sung-pang  is  the  snowy  Siue-shan,  at 
whose  foot  flows  a  rivulet,  theKsemtso,  **  golden  lake,**  really  a  suceessicm 
of  small  lakes  divided  by  thin  waDs  of  tufa,  one  above  the  other. 

From  Sung-pang  the  expediti<m  returned  to  Lang-chau  vii  Lung-«n- 
fu,  Yen-hflien,  Tse-chau,  Hung-chang-fu,  and  Di-dao.  They  passed  the 
winter  at  the  monastery  of  Kumbum,  south  of  Si-ning,  where  tbey  saw  the 
relies  of  the  mother  of  Tsonkaba,  the  great  Buddhist  reformer,  and  the 
miraculous  tree  described  by  Abbe  Hue. 


A  Jomrmof  tj»  Noriken  and  Eastern  MandiuricL 

The  *  Proceedings'  for  Deoemb^  last  t  ccmtained  an  account  of  a  jour- 
ney undertaken  by  Messrs.  James,  Younghusband,  and  Fulfoid  to  the 
Pei-shan  Mountain  and  the  sources  of  the  SungarL  Mr.  James,  one  of 
the  party,  informs  us  that  the  three  traveUers  have  since  continued 
their  explorations  in  Northern  and  Eastern  Manchuria,  and  visited  parts 

*  A  spetitmcldMie  plmn,  Bometimes  called  tbe  *^ Keg-fig " ;  the  French  sweetmeatB 
^gna-ooqmti  are  made  from  ita  fruit 
t  '  PraewdiBga  B.6.S,*  ISSe,  p.  779. 


23$  A  JOUUNEY  IN  NORTHEKN  AND  EASTERK  MANCHURU.  ^M 

of  tlie  country  wliich  havo  not  been  previously  described.  After  a 
tletentioii  of  three  weets  at  Kirinj  caused  hy  the  prolonged  rains,  they 
started  on  the  3rd  September  fur  TsitBihar,  the  capital  of  North 
Manchuria.  Passing  through  Petunia,  they  croBSed  the  Sungari  at  its  fl 
junction  with  the  Konni.  The  rivers  were  in  flood,  and  the  joint  stream 
was  10  miles  across.  The  prairies  also  beyond  were  so  much  under 
water  that  frequent  diversions  had  to  be  made  for  the  high  road 
described  by  the  Archimandrite  PaOadius.*  Tsitsihar  was  reached 
on  the  20th  September,  and  then  the  party  turned  to  the  south-east, 
passing  for  175  miles  over  a  high  undulating  and  perfectly  uncnlti* 
vated  steppe.  Large  flocks  of  geese,  of  which  there  were  three 
varieties ,  the  large  bustard,  and  a  species  of  black  crane,  too  shy  for 
a  specimen  to  be  secured,  were  comnjon.  The  only  other  thing  notice-  S 
able  here  was  a  rude  but  eiBcient  system  of  manufacturing  soda  and  " 
a  salt,  called  mien-tm.  The  earth  containing  the  salt  is  gathered 
from  the  edges  of  brackish  lakes,  mixed  in  large  tanks  with  water, 
and  then  the  impregnated  liquid  is  drawn  oE  and  boiled  in  iron 
cauldrons,  at  the  bottom  of  which  the  soda  collects  in  a  solid  cup-shaped  H 
mass,  9  to  12  inches  thick.  The  other  salt  is  ladled  out  liquid,  and 
pressed  into  briuks.  The  process  is  identical  with  that  used  for  the 
production  of  saltpotro  in  Sind,  and  borax  in  Ladakh,  fl 

Near  the  edge  of  the  steppe  the  flourishing  town  of  llulan,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Hulan  river,  8  or  10  miles  from  the  Sungari  was  reached. 
The  modem  town  of  Pe-tun-lin-tzu,  55  railcs  to  the  north-east  was  the 
next  visited,  and  then  Pa-yen -shu^shu,  55  miles  to  the  south-east  of 
Pe-ttm-lin-tzu,  Each  of  these  towns  contains  upwards  of  25,000  inha- 
bitants, and  increases  in  size  rapidly,  as  the  country  around,  which 
is  very  fertile,  is  being  widely  cultivated,  and  colonists  arrive  eveiy 
winter  in  largo  numbers  from  the  south. 

The  whole  of  Mfinchuria  is  noted  for  brigands,  but  this  neighbourhood  M 
literally  swarms  with  them*  One  everjiog  at  dusk  the  party  met  with  a  H 
party  of  five,  armed  with  foreign  guns.  But  it  is  considered  unlucky  to 
meddle  with  "foreign  devils,**  particularly  as  these,  for  purposes  of 
sport,  always  carried  their  guns  ready,  so  the  party  was  not  molested. 
The  banditti  make  their  hiding-places  in  the  hills  to  the  north,  and  the 
officials  are  so  corrupt  and  incompetent,  and  tho  Manchu  soldiers  are 
so  cowarJlj')  that  in  spite  of  constant  and  wholesale  executions  the  pest 
still  flourished.  Anyone  who  makes  a  little  money  is  liable  to  have  his 
house  plundered,  or  to  be  kidnapped  and  taken  oW  to  the  hills,  and  then, 
if  an  exorbitant  ransom  is  not  paid,  his  head  is  sent  back  without  fail  to 
his  friends,  jjo Mr  encoura^jer  les  an  t res.  Not  nmch  more  than  a  year  ago 
a  large  body  attacked  Pe-tun-lin-tEu,  with  the  connivance  of  the  local 
military  Mandarin,  and  another  flourishing  village,  called  Hsian-shih-ho, 
was  looted  twice  in  the  same  year. 

•  'Journal  B-G.S.,'  vol  rlil  p,  142. 


A  J0C7RKET  IX  NORTHERN  AKD  EASTERN  MAKCHURU.  237 

The  Solon  Tartan  also,  who  live  by  hantiDg  in  the  hills,  are  wild 
saTages.  While  the  party  was  at  Holan,  four  Chinese  arriyed,  the  last 
of  a  party  of  thirteen,  who  had  gone  to  the  hills  to  collect  medicinal 
loots,  and  were  masBacred  for  the  sake  of  their  carts  and  baggage.  No 
attempt  at  retribution  would,  it  was  said,  be  made  bj  the  officials. 

The  principal  places  of  business  in  the  tract  are  the  distilleries,  as, 
although  the  grain  is  Tcry  cheap,  communications  are  so  bad,  that  even 
when  floods  make  almost  a  famine  in  Liao-tung,  as  is  often  the  case,  it 
does  not  paj  to  export  it  south,  except  in  the  form  of  liquor.  These 
distilleries,  and  indeed  all  important  places  of  business,  whether  inside 
towns  or  out,  are  strongly  fortified  with  lofty  walls,  flanking  towers, 
inm-plated  gates,  and  sometimes  even,  with  small  cannon ;  convoys  of 
carts  travel  around  with  gingalls,  matchlocks,  and  spears,  unless  they 
have  first  paid  blackmail  to  the  brigands,  and  even  foot-passengera 
carry  weapons  of  some  kind.  Three  French  missionaries  reside  in  this 
out-of-the-way  region.  They  have  discovered  that  excellent  claret  and 
brandy  may  be  made  out  of  the  wild  grapes  of  the  country. 

From  F^yen-shu-ehu  the  road  followed  the  left  bank  of  the  Sungari 
as  far  as  San-seng,  below  which  town  the  Chinese  have  built  a  fort, 
aimed  with  Erupp  guns,  to  guard  the  approach  up  the  river.  From 
San-seng,  which  is  not  a  very  flourishing  place,  the  party  turned  south, 
up  the  valley  of  the  Hurka  or  Mutan-chiang,  along  a  tract  constructed  a 
few  years  back,  and  said  to  be  passable  for  carts.  It  proved  barely  so. 
It  crosses  an  everlasting  series  of  very  steep  ridges  running  down  to 
the  edge  of  the  right  bank,  with  difficult  swamps  between,  and  though 
the  worst  parts  had  been  roughly  bridged  or  causewayed,  so  much  is  it 
out  of  repair  that  until  the  frost  came  it  was  very  difficult  to  get  the 
carts  through,  and  the  gradients  of  the  hills  were  so  severe  that  many 
accidents  happened. 

Along  the  Hurka  and  its  tributaries,  the  capture  was  seen  of  entire 
shoals  of  salmon  coming  up  to  spawn,  the  fish  being  intercepted  by 
weirs  of  wickerwork,  and  then  pulled  out  of  the  water  as  fast  as  the 
gaff  could  be  thrust  into  them,  so  that  hundreds  were  collected  at  a 
time.  San-seng  was  left  on  the  16th  October,  and  after  passing  a  canton- 
ment called  Teh-ho,  which  guards  the  road  leading  to  Lake  Hinka  and 
the  settlement  of  Nikokk,  Ninguta  was  reached  on  the  26th.  This 
neighbourhood  is  veiy  well  cultivated.  The  road  further  south  was 
found  not  to  be  so  difficult,  and  Hunchun,  a  large  cantonment  in  the 
south-east  comer  of  Manchuria,  was  made  on  the  6th  November.  From 
there  the  travellers  visited  the  Bussian  outpost  on  the  frontier,  as  well 
as  the  station  of  Novaviyeek,  in  Possiet  Harbour,  meeting  with  a  most 
cordial  reception  from  the  colonel  in  oommand  and  the  other  Bussian 
officers.  From  San-seng  onwards  the  country  swarmed  with  pheasants  in 
incredible  numbers,  and  black-game  was  also  met  with  in  large  flocks, 
very  tame,  packing  together  in  willow  trees,  like  hens  in  a  barn.    The 


238 


A  JOURNEY  3N  NORTHERN  AND  EASTERN  MANCHURIA, 


mountain  deer  or  fau-tzu  was  aleo  oommon.  From  Hnnchiin  the  party 
divided.  One  of  the  numbor  went  with  a  convoy  of  mules  by  a  short 
cut  across  the  hills  to  Eirin.  This  route  follows  a  river  YarlouBly  called 
the  We-tzu-ho,  the  Yang-tzu-kang-ho,  and  other  Barnes,  from  places  on 
its  banks,  and  it  falls  into  the  Kaya-ho  shortly  before  the  river  joins 
the  Tumen,  The  raule-track,  which  is  also  used  by  carta  in  winter,  con- 
tinues along  this  stream  up  to  its  very  source,  and  then  crt^sses  the 
watershed  between  the  Tumen  and  Htirka  valleys  by  the  Hu-la-pa-ling 
pass.  It  then  follows  the  Sha-ho,  a  tributary  of  the  Hurka»  crosses  the 
Hurka  itself  at  a  place  called  San-cliia-tzu,  not  far  from  Autuo  (which  is 
erroneously  shown  in  tho  maps  on  the  Tumcn  side  of  the  watershed),  and 
ascends  another  tributary,  the  ChuH^rk-tao-ho  as  far  as  Omoso,  on  the 
Imperial  high  road  from  Ninguta  to  Kirin,  After  crossing  the  Chang- 
tsai-ling,  it  quits  the  main  ro^d  again  near  a  mountain  called  La-bu-la- 
tzu,  and  crosses  a  further  range  called  Hai-ching-ling,  south  of  the 
Lau-yeh-lmg,  one  which  the  high  road  passes.  Kirin  was  reached  by 
this  route  on  the  24th  November,  and  the  rest  of  tho  party  travelling 
in  Ninguta  arrived  on  the  26th.  The  next  place  to  be  visited  was  the 
large  commercial  city  of  Kwan-chang-tzu,  containing  probably  100,000 
inhabitants,  and  there  the  party  turned  south,  travelling  first  to  Mukden 
and  then  to  Yingtstu,  the  port  of  Nowchwang  which  they  reached  on  the 
20th  I>ecember,  just  seven  months  from  the  day  they  started.  Fortu- 
nately tho  weather  was  unusually  mild  and  little  snow  fell*  The 
greatest  cold  felt  was  —  20^  Eeaumur  (—13^  Fahrenheit),  whil& 
occasionally  north  of  the  Sungari  it  falls  to  —  45^  Centigrade  (—  49*^ 
Fahrenheit).  Travelling  was  therefore  easy.  At  Yingtzu  the  ]>arty 
separated.  Mr.  James  went  south,  travel  sing  the  whole  of  the  Liao- 
tung  promontory  as  far  as  Lu-shuan-kou  or  Port  Arthur*  On  the  road 
he  visited  several  interesting  Korean  remains,  and  about  twenty  miles 
from  tho  port  of  Ta-chiang-ho  he  ascended  to  a  picturesquely  situated 
cave,  near  the  top  of  a  fine  precipitous  mountain,  inhabited  by  Buddhist 
priests,  who  hay©  built  some  temples  inside.  These  ancient  ediBoes 
ofi'er  a  strong  contrast  to  tho  forts,  great  Krupp  guns,  torpedoes,  sub- 
marine mines,  and  other  modern  appliances  for  defence  with  which 
Port  Arthur  briatles.  From  there  Mr,  James  passed  by  a  transport  to 
Chefoo,  and  he  has  since  left  China  for  America.  Mr.  Younghusband 
and  Mr.  Fulford  took  tho  Imperial  high  road  vi4  Shan-hai-kuau  for 
Tientsin,  to  finish  their  vacation  in  Peking.  The  whole  journey  has 
extended  over  more  than  3000  mileSt  Almost  without  exception  the 
people  were  found  civil  and  obliging  ;  but  excluding  Liao-tung  and  the 
Chang-pei-shan  hills,  whore  strong  guilds  exist,  brigandage  certainly  is 
the  curse  of  the  country  ;  putting  on  one  side  the  tract  d"'^*»  *^^ 
Sungari,  which  has  already  been  described.  Twice,  pari 
were  met  on  their  m*ay  to  trial  and  execution  ;  tho  ^ 
traveller  was  seen  on  the  high  road  coming  fror 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


239 


N 


» 
^ 


I  aent  to  the  a^ast  for  lettors  waa  stopped  hj  a  band  wMch  plundered 
some  carts  immediately  behind  him,  and  while  the  party  were  at  Mukden 
the  news  amved  of  the  blockading  of  upwards  of  a  hundred  robbers  in 
a  caTB  on  the  road  to  Kirin,  The  Manchu  military-civil  administration 
is  certainly  effete,  and  it  is  time  it  j^ave  place  to  Chinese,  The  Manchu 
Tartars  themselves  are  fast  losing  their  own  language,  spoken  and 
written,  for  Chinese,  and  the  substitution  of  extremely  complicated  hiero- 
glyphics for  a  simple  alphabet,  forma  a  case  of  national  retrogression 
without  parallel  in  modem  times.  They  are  demoralised  by  petting  and 
idleness ;  for  every  man  belonging,  as  it  would  be  called  in  India,  to  the 
Imperial  caste,  and  who  can  draw  the  bow,  receives  two  ttiels  a  month, 
and  land  rent-free,  in  return  for  a  training  in  the  militia  twice  a  year. 
Am  the  Emperors  no  longer  visit  the  cradle  of  their  dynasty,  it  is 
time  a  Chinese  reformer  were  sent  to  the  province  with  power  to  mak*:^ 
a  clean  sweep  of  all  existing  Manchu  officials  and  institutions,  Tht; 
country  is  extremely  rich  in  gold,  silver,  iron,  coal,  furs,  silk,  and 
opium,  the  cultivation  of  which  last  has  greatly  increased,  and  the 
dru^  IB  now  exported  to  all  parts  of  China.  All  it  requires  is  good 
government  and  security  to  life  and  propert3^ 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


I 


Geography  at  Oxford. — We  call  attention  to  the  announcement  made 
by  General  Strachey,  at  the  Evening  Meeting  of  the  28th  Februar^^,  to 
the  effect  that  the  Council  had  been  officially  informed  that  the  University 
of  Oxford  had  decided  to  establish  a  Readership  of  Geography  for  0ve 
years.  Thus,  as  General  Strachey  stated,  the  aspirationB  of  the  Society, 
as  regards  Oxford,  have  been  realised. 

Further  Explorations    of  the  Tributaries  of   the  Congo  by  Mr. 

Orenfell. — The  indefatigable  explorer,  Mr.  George  GrenfeD,  has  juet 
added  a  sucoeesful  ascent  of  the  great  Quango  tributary  of  the  Congo  to 
bis  previous  achievements  of  the  like  nature.  In  company  Avith  Mr. 
Bentley,  in  th©  Baptist  Missionary  steamer  Feae.e,  he  succeeded  in 
reftching  the  Kiknnji  Falls,  the  point  at  which  Major  von  Mechow, 
descending  the  Quango  from  the  south,  was  obliged  to  turn  back  in 
1880*  About  six  miles  above  the  junction  of  the  Kasai  with  the  Quango 
they  found  another  lEwg©  tributary,  the  Djuma,  entering  the  river  from 
the  eaet,  which  presented  so  large  a  volume  of  water,  that  it  was  a 
ma^er  of  uncertainty  which  was  the  larger  stream.  A  little  beyond 
this,  the  course  of  the  Quango  veered  round,  first  S.S.W,  and  then  west ; 
at  4'^  30'  S»  lat.  it  had  come  back  to  its  usual  southerly  course,  and 
maintained  it  for  the  remainder  of  the  journey-  The  Kikunji  Falls 
(5'"^  8'  8-  lat.)  are  about  three  feet  high,  and  though  insurmountable  to 
the  Peacc^  are  said  by  Mr.  GrenfeU  to  be  no  ol>stacle  to  communication 


2i0  GEOGRAPHICAL  KOTES. 

by  canoes   arid  small  eraft.— Mr.  Grenftsll   expects    to  1>o  in  England 
in  May* 

The  Gambia  and  Sierra  Leone. — In  a  newly-issued  Colonial  Office 
Report  on  the  Gambia,  by  Mr.  G.  T.  Carter,  the  Acting  AdmiDLstrator, 
there  are  some  fresh  data  on  the  climate  of  that  colony,  which  tend 
greatly  to  modify  previously  accepted  notion &,  based  on  imperfect 
observations.  Theae  tend  to  show  that  Ihe  temperatures  hitherto 
accepted  are  much  too  high ;  the  mean  temperatures  for  1885  were,  in 
Jannarj%  at  7  a;m*  68 * 5^,  and  at  noon  73 •  7^ ;  in  July,  at  7  a.m.  80^j  and 
at  noon  82 '  5"^.  There  are  also  in  the  report  a  few  notes  on  the  ethnolog;^^ 
of  the  colony.  A  Colonial  Oifico  Eeport  on  Sierra  Leone,  with  map, 
contains  mnch  information  regarding  the  difiFerent  districta  and  tribes  of 
that  colony  and  its  vicinity. 

Haeent  French  H^editioiis  in  the  interior  of  Senegal— A  commnni- 
c-ation,  dated  17th  December,  1886,  from  Senudebn,  on  the  Upp«r  Niger, 
has  b^en  received  by  the  Geographical  Society  of  Paris,  which  gives  some 
account  of  the  intended  operations  of  the  French,  tinder  Colonel  Gallieni, 
in  that  region,  whicht  it  is  believed,  will  lead  to  geographical  results  of 
great  importance*  In  consequence  of  the  threatening  attitude  of  the 
Marabout  Mahmadu  Lamine,  who  was  encamped  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Diana,  two  columns  had  boon  formed  to  proceed  against  bim ;  one, 
starting  from  the  confluence  of  the  Faleme  and  the  Senegal,  was  to 
march  direct  upon  Diana  via  Senedubu ;  the  other,  traversing  the 
district  of  Bambuk,  was  to  cross  the  Faleme  near  the  village  of  Jabusire, 
and  by  this  circuitous  route  approEich  the  same  objective  from  the  south. 
One  or  two  ofiBcers  specially  charged  with  topographical  work^  were 
attached  to  each  column.  The  country  to  be  traversed  is  not  known, 
and  the  existing  maps  are  all  at  fault  regarding  it«  With  the  view  of 
establishing  more  amicable  relations  with  Almany  Samory  to  the  east, 
the  Uassulu  mission  had  been  ordered  to  visit  that  sovereign,  with 
instructions  to  survey  all  the  country  along  the  right  bank  of  the 
Niger,  and  returning  up  the  Tankisso,  to  connect  its  surveys  with  those 
of  the  other  two  detachments.  Further,  Dr.  Tautain,  the  companion 
of  GalUeni  on  hie  journey  to  Bcgu,  and  Lieutenant  Quiquandou  had 
been  charged  to  explore  the  Great  Beledugu  country,  and  to  push 
beyond  Murdia  and  Segala  to  the  north. 

Dr.  Len2. — The  new  number  of  the  *  Mittheilungon '  of  the  Vienna 
Geographical  Society  contains  the  letters  from  Dr.  Lenz,  to  which  we 
referred  in  the  last  number  of  the  •  Proceedings,'  and  which  carry  on  the 
narrative  of  his  journey  from  Kasouge  on  the  Upper  Congo  to  the  river 
Shir^.  These  letters  do  not  oontaiu  much  geographical  information, 
and  no  wonder,  for  Dr.  Lenz  had  Ms  hands  full  of  trouble.  Kasonge  is 
an  extremely  unhealthy  place ;  his  companion  Bohndorf  was  prostrated, 
and  had  to  be  carried  nearly  the  whole  way ;  small-pox  broke  out  among 


GSOGiLAPElCAL  XOmS.  341 

liis  ttimTmn,  mmnj  of  his  men  died,  and  othen  had  to  be  left  behind,  so 
that  he  had  little  leisure  or  enei^  left  for  geographical  work.  Still 
the  letters  contain  srane  interesting  information,  and  donbtless  we  may 
look  far  more  in  his  complete  narrative.  He  tells  us  that  Tippoo  Tip 
went  to  Zanribar  for  the  purpose  of  being  invested  by  the  Sultan  with 
authority  to  act  as  his  representative  in  the  Tanganyika  regions.  Of 
covrBe,  we  know  now  that  this  mission  was  useless,  as  the  Sultanas 
authority  extends  only  to  10  miles  from  the  coast.  Dr.  Lenz  left 
Kasonge  oa.  June  30th,  and  traversing  the  plateau  between  that  and 
Lake  Tanganyika,  reached  Mr.  Here's  station  on  Kavala  Island  on 
August  7th.  He  found  much  of  the  route  studded  with  recently  founded 
Zsnzibari  villages  established  by  the  Arab  traders,  the  natives  having 
been  compelled  to  retreat  into  the  forests  and  remote  mountains.  All  these 
Tillages  are  surrounded  with  fields  of  maize  and  durra,  as  well  as  with 
maniooB,  bananas,  and  oil-palms ;  sheep,  goats,  and  fowls  are  plentifuL 
On  the  latter  part  of  the  journey,  over  a  plateau  3000  to  4000  feet  high, 
were  mountains  rising  to  the  same  height,  mainly  composed  of  granite, 
with  occasional  crystalline  slates.  After  being  hospitably  entertained  by 
Mr.  Hoie,  Dr.  Lenz  arrived  in  Ujiji  oo  August  1 5th.  Here,  as  already  stated, 
he  resolved  to  abandon  the  attempt  to  proceed  to  Emin  Pasha,  and,  at 
considerable  cost,  hired  a  large  boat,  with  which  he  proceeded  to  the 
south  end  of  Lake  Tanganyika.  He  left  on  September  8th,  and  took  eleven 
days  to  reach  Niomkolo,  on  the  south  shore,  having  called  on  the  way  at 
Karema,  now  a  Boman  Catholic  mission  station.  With  reference  to  the 
Lnknga  river,  which  Mr.  Stanley,  in  1878,  found  had  forced  its  way 
through  obstractions  and  flowed  into  the  Congo,  Dr.  Lenz  has  some  in- 
teresting remarks.  Mr.  Hore  informed  him  that  the  current  is  now  ex- 
ceedmgly  strong,  and  that  during  his  residence  of  several  years  on  the 
lake,  he  has  observed  the  level  of  its  water  to  have  fallen  15  feet.  Dr. 
Lenz  himself  observed  at  several  places  old  shore-lines.  Niomkolo  is  a 
most  inhospitable  district,  and  Dr.  Lenz  had  to  stay  a  fortnight  before 
he  could  get  enough  of  men  to  take  him  two  days'  journey  towards  Lake 
Nyassa.  The  villages,  strongly  fortified,  are  all  at  war  with  each  other. 
At  Famba's  strongly  fortified  village  (Thomson's  Mfumbo)  Dr.  Lenz 
found  himself  on  an  important  waterparting.  The  Seise  goes  north  to 
Lake  Hikwa,  and  dose  beside  it  rise  two  or  three  small  streams,  which 
uniting  with  others  to  form  the  Chambese,  flow  to  Lake  Bangweolo,  and 
so  may  be  regarded  as  the  ultimate  sources  of  the  Congo.  There  was  a 
four  days'  march  through  an  uninhabited  district,  with  many  mined  vil- 
lages. Further  on,  a  large  caravan  of  Arabs  and  Zanzibari  was  met  with, 
who  had  been  selling  ivory  to  the  African  Lakes  Company.  The  region 
consists  mostlj  of  granite  and  crystalline  slates ;  the  average  height  above 
sea-level  5000  feet,  with  mountains  rising  some  thousands  of  feet  higher. 
After  passing  the  villages  of  Mpansa  and  Nimbo  (?  Vimbo)  he  came 
on  Stevenson's  traces,  and  on  October  15th  reached  the  mission  station 


242  GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES, 

near  Miuia  Wando  (?  Maliwanda )*  Karon ga*8,  on  Lake  Nyasaa  (a  station 
of  the  Lakes  Company),  ^vas  reaclietl  on  the  17tb*  Henc©  Dn  Lonz 
journeyed  down  the  lake  to  the  Shire  river,  from  which  his  last  letter 
18  dated»  December  1886. 

Changes  of  the  Coast-line  in  Northern  Africa— Df,  Theobald  Fischer 

contributeis  an  interesting  paper  to  Petermann's  *Mitteilungeii'  (Nos,  1  and  2, 
1887),  in  which  he  gives  a  detailed  account  of  iheobservationsmadeby  him  atSieTGral 
points  on  the  north  coast  of  Africa,  His  previous  examination  of  the  coasta  of  the 
Mediterranean  and  ScaDdina\na  led  to  hia  iiodertakiDg  tbis  journey  ia  the  spring  of 
1886,  his  special  object  bt'ing  to  Btudy  on  the  spot  the  action  of  the  Burf-wave 
upon  the  Algerian  and  Tunisian  coasts.  In  tbe  course  of  his  exj>editionj  however,  he 
travelled  over  a  considerable  part  of  Algeria,  viaiting  Bona,  Biskra,  and  Constantine, 
He  then  traversed  the  "Shott^*  district  eastwards  to  the  Gulf  of  Gabes.  The  obser- 
vations  made  during  this  part  of  hie  journey  will  add  to  the  completion  of  our  know- 
ledge of  the  country.  But  it  ie  to  his  study  of  the  coast-line  that  wc  desire  to  draw 
attentioQ.  The  coasts  of  Algeria  and  Tunis  forcibly  illustrate  It ichtbo fen's  theory  as 
to  the  formation  of  surfaces  of  ahnision  and  their  important  connection  with  changes 
of  the  fibore-line.  The  information  as  to  the  atrengtii  and  direction  of  the  wind, 
necessary  in  dealing  with  the  action  of  the  sea  upon  the  coast,  Dr,  Fischer  obtained 
from  the  carefully  prepared  tables  of  Mr,  0,  M*Cartby,  who  has  for  some  years 
made  this  subject  his  special  study.  From  tbe  tables  for  the  two  years  ending 
April  1885  he  found  that  tbe  preTailing  direction  of  the  wind  was  uorth-^ast  j  in 
tbe  summer  months,  when  its  strength  was  greatest,  tbe  wind  was  almost  inTariably 
from  that  quarter.  The  coast  of  Algeria  is  subject  to  storms  of  great  violence  from 
the  north  and  north-east.  Tbe  traveller  gives  an  account  of  tbe  damage  done  by 
one  which  occurred  shortly  before  his  arrival  at  Algiers.  He  confined  his  coast 
studies  principaOy;to  four  points : — 

1.  Tite  Algerian  Coast  near  Tipaza, — This  bay,  lying  to  the  west  of  the  town 
of  Algiers,  may  be,  he  says,  regarded  as  entirely  tbe  result  of  the  action  of  the  eurf- 
wave.  Its  western  boundary,  the  promontory  of  Chenua,  formed  of  hard  uummu- 
litic  limestone,  and  its  eastern  boundary,  Cape  Sidi  Ferruch,  a  spur  of  the  mountains 
of  Algiers  composed  of  granite  and  mica-slate,  have  withstood  the  onslaught  of  tbe 
waves,  though  the  shores  exposed  to  the  north-east  are  strewn  with  large  pieces  of 
rock,  testifying  to  the  powers  of  the  sea.  The  soft,  miocene  limestoue  of  Tipaaa  has 
given  way  rapidly  before  the  sea,  which  has  advanced  to  the  limit  of  th^  hard 
nummuUtic  limestone.  The  action  of  the  sea  in  forming  the  numerous  small  bays 
along  tbis  part  of  tbe  coast  has  been  facilitated  by  the  torrents,  at  the  mouths  of 
which  these  bays  are  generally  to  be  found. 

2p  The  Coast  in  the  viciniij/  of  Algiern. — Here,  on  tbe  western  side  of  the  bay, 
where  the  coast  is  of  hard  slate,  the  sea  has  formed  an  abrasion  surface  of  about 
li  mile  in  breadth.  Cape  Blatifu,  bounding  the  bay  on  the  east,  is  composed  of 
slate  rich  m  quartz.  Tho  ravages  of  the  sea  are  very  apparent  at  Rusgnnia  and 
Riisubbicarri,  where  the  coast,  consisting  of  clay  and  marl,  has  given  way  about 
650  yards.  These  towns,  of  which  now  scarcely  anything  remains,  were  founded 
by  Augustus,  and  in  the  middle  ages  were  flourishing  and  possessed  good  harbours. 
At  tbe  innermost  part  of  tbe  bay,  however,  the  land  has  gained  on  tbe  sea,  especially 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  river  Harrach,  where^  in  front  of  the  chalk  ridges,  a  fertile 
plain  half  a  mile  broad  extends  some  four  miles  each  side  of  tbe  mouth  of  tbe  river. 
Dr.  Fischer  concludes  that  tlie  surface  of  abrasion  has  here  reached  such  a  breadth 
that  tbe  surf-wave  loses  its  power, 

3.  Tite  Bay  of  Bmia, — The  physical  features  of  the  bay  aire  described  ia  detail 


« 


GEOGRAPmCAI  NOTES. 


348 


by  the  traveller,  particularly  Ihe  dunes  surrounding  it,  whick  form  a  barrier  to  the 
rivers  fiawing  into  the  sea,  caosiog  them  In  some  iostances  to  How  for  several  miles 
parallel  with  the  low  hilk  before  fioding  their  natural  exit«  New  land  is  being 
formed  here.  The  direction  of  the  current  from  Cap©  Bosa  on  the  one  side  to  Cape 
de  Garde  on  the  other  forces  the  mouths  of  all  the  rivera  westward.  This  is  very 
notice-able  in  the  case  of  the  Mafragh  and  Seybuso,  both  of  which  are  rich  in 
alluvial  deposits.  The  efifect  of  this  on  the  ahore-line  is  at  once  apparent,  as  the 
east  coast  of  the  bay  has  nndergone  practically  no  changie,  whereas  to  the  west 
of  the  month  of  the  Seyhuse  the  land  has  gained  very  considerably  on  the  sea. 
Br.  Fischer  refers  at  some  length  to  the  ancient  town  of  Hippo. 

4.  The  Guff  of  Tunis, — The  traveller*a  principal  work  here  was  in  the  delta  of 
the  Medjerda,  to  which  so  many  writers  have  drawn  attention.  He  traces  the 
physical  clianges  which  have  taken  place  in  the  peninsula  of  Utica,  and  the  rapid 
formation  of  land  within  historical  time  through  the  exceptionally  rich  deposits  of 
the  Medjerda.  After  careful  ejamination.  Dr.  Fischer  nnds  that  the  Medjerda  does 
not  flow  into  the  Bay  of  Porto  Farina,  as  indicated  in  tho  French  topograpluc^l  map 
of  Tunis,  recently  puWiBhed,  hut  discharges  directly  into  the  aea.  Occasionally  in 
winter  (when  the  French  sun^ey  was  made)  the  waters  are  very  high,  and  an  arm 
of  the  river  flows  into  the  above-mentioned  hay.  An  excellent  little  map,  showing 
the  delta  and  ancient  IkhI  of  the  river,  accompanies  Dr.  Fbcher^s  paper.  The  Bay 
of  Tunis  is  gradually  being  closed  up  by  the  action  of  the  ocean  current  and  tho 
furf-wave*  It  is  only  kept  from  being  completely  landlocked  by  the  i»eriodicaL 
overflowing  of  the  Medjerda,  Its  size  and  depth  are  also  being  diminished  by  the 
refnse  of  the  city  of  Tunis,  Dr.  Fischer's  description  of  the  flora  of  all  this  district 
will  be  found  of  interest.  He  comments  on  tho  very  general  cultivation  of  the 
date-palm,  which  is  pknted  close  to  the  &ea-shore. 

Dr»  Hans  Schinz  in  South-western  Africa. — In  the  *  Proceedings'  for 
1880,  p.  65Q,  we  gave  a  brief  account  of  the  explorations  of  l>r.  Schinz 
in  Sonth-weBtem  Africa,  The  following  intereating  details  are  taken 
from  a  private  letter,  Br.  Schinz  went  out  to  Kama  Land  in  1884,  on 
behalf  of  Mr.  Luderitz.  Having  explored  the  territories  acquired  by 
this  enterpriBing  gentleman,  and  now  passed  into  the  posseiBsion  of  a 
company,  he  turned  to  the  northward,  exploring  the  country  as  far  as 
the  Knnene  river,  and  to  within  a  short  distance  of  Lake  Ngami,  He 
resided  and  travelled  in  Ovambo  from  August  1885  to  February  188r>, 
when  a  misunderstanding  with  the  family  of  King  Kambonde  of 
Ondonga,  whose  suspicions  had  been  aroused  by  his  scientific  pursuits, 
compelled  him  to  seek  safety  in  flight.  The  journey  from  the  kings 
residence  to  Groot  Fontein  (Otyavanda  tyongue)^  the  settlement  of  the 
Boers,  near  the  Otavi  copper-mines,  can  be  accomplished  in  summer  in  a 
fortnight,  but  owing  to  the  condition  of  the  road  Dr.  Sohinz  spent  fully 
six  weeks  over  it.  The  soil  was  saturated  with  water,  and  the  draught- 
oxen  frequently  sunk  into  it  up  to  their  bellies,  the  day's  progress 
occasionally  not  exceeding  a  mile.  Etosha  Tan  presented  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  veritable  lake.  Tho  Boors  who  have  settled  at  Groot 
Fontein  under  the  leadership  of  Mr,  Jordan  received  the  traveller  most 
hoepitably*  They  had  left  Humpata  in  Mossamedes,  owing  to  a  disa- 
greement with  the  Portuguese  authorities,  and  established  themselves 


244  G£0€RAPHICAL  NOTES. 

withiu  a  territory  ptircliased  by  their  leai^ler  from  tlio  Cliiof  of  Ondonga, 
and  constituted  a  Hepnblic  named  "  Upingtonia/'  in  honour  of  the 
Prime  Minister  of  Cape  Colony,  This  territory  is  bounded  on  the  west 
by  the  Etosha  and  Onandora  Pans  and  etretcbes  away  eastward  between 
18°  and  20^  of  south  latitude.  Dr,  Schinz  describes  it  as  a  region  well 
adapted  to  agricultural  pursuits.  Abont  one-fourth  of  it  ie  hill}^,  and 
apparently  rich  in  minerale,  while  the  remainder  consists  of  uoduliiting 
limestono  plains  (am  ancient  lake-bed)  of  great  fertility.  Perennial 
springs  are  numerous,  and  the  ample  rains  fall  between  November  and 
April.  Malarial  fevers  prevail  during  that  season,  but  they  are  not  of 
a  vimlent  typo.  Horsea  and  cattle,  however,  aro  subject  to  a  lung 
disease  as  in  other  parts  of  South  Africa.  Mr,  Jordan  has  divided  his 
territory  into  farms  of  6000  acres  each,  six  of  which,  together  with  all 
mining  rights,  ho  reserved  to  himself^  handing  the  rest  of  the  country 
over  to  a  ^*  Bostuur,"  elected  by  the  Boers.  Settlera  receive  farms  gratia 
on  condition  of  their  beginning  to  cultivate  them  within  a  year  from  their 
arrival.*  Having  procured  a  fresh  team  of  oxen,  Dr,  Schinz  trocked  to  the 
eastward,  following  at  first  a  spoor  left  by  Mr.  Erickson's  waggon,  and 
then  the  dry  bed  of  the  Omuramba  wa  Mataka  as  far  as  Karakobis,  where 
that  watercourse  turns  to  the  north-east  and,  aasaming  the  name  of 
Seshongo,  joins  the  Okavango  or  Ombuengo,  The  country  between 
Karakobis  and  the  Tonke  (Tiogo)  forme  part  of  the  Kalahari,  and 
presents  a  succession  of  dunes,  covered  with  Bauhinias,  Cassias,  Com- 
breti,  and  other  di  cotyledon  on  s  trees,  the  intervening  depressions  being 
occupied  by  acacias,  Yleys  are  only  met  with  at  long  intervals,  and 
game  is  the  reverse  of  abundant.  The  few  inhabitants  are  bushmen, 
and  speak  a  language  distinct  from  that  of  the  Nama,  though  apparently 
allied  to  it.  In  May,  Dr»  Schinz  arrived  at  Nokana,  the  residence  of  the 
Batowana  chief  Moremi,  who  formerly  lived  on  Lake  Ngami,  but  who 
in  consequence  of  an  incursion  of  the  Matabeli  has  removed  to  the 
swamps,  thrco  days'  journey  to  the  north-west  of  it.  Tho  immediate 
neighbourhood  of  the  lake  has  been  abandoned  to  the  Bakoba,  the  old 
herdsmen  of  the  Batowana.  Dr.  Schinz  was  not  permitted  to  visit  it. 
He  heard  J  however,  that  the  lake  has  not  dried  up,  although  much 
reduced  in  si^e.  It  is  fed  by  numerous  branches  of  the  Okavango  which 
meander  through  the  extensive  swamps  lying  to  the  north  of  it.  The 
Batowana  name  of  the  lake  is  Ngabi  or  NagabL  On  his  return  to 
Damara  Land,  Dn  Schinz  once  more  crossed  the  Kalahari.  At  Qhanze, 
where  Mr.  Eobertson  has  built  himself  a  stone  bouse,  he  was  able  to 
collect  materials  for  a  grammatical  sketch  and  a  vocabulary  of  the  Ai- 
San  language.  This  journey  through  tho  Kalahari  was  attended  with 
much   hardship,   and  the   traveller   suffered   greatly   from   fever   and 

*  Id  Judo  1886  Mr.  Jordan  was  murdered,  and  the  fiftoen  families  who  bad  settled 
in  '^Upingtoma'*  have  ainoe  placed  tliemselvcB  under  the  protection  of  Germany. 


OEOGIlAFinCAL  NOTES. 


245 


dysentery.  Embarking  at  Walvtsck  Bay  on  November  16th,  188C,  Dr. 
ScMnz  reached  Capeto\m  after  a  voyage  of  twenty-six  days,  and  then 
returned  to  Europe,     Br,   Schinz   has  aucceeded   in  making  valuable 

'  botanical  and  ethBOgraphical  collections,  and  is  at  present  engaged  in 
preparing  a  full  acconnt  of  his  explorations. 

New  Guinea  Expleration.^We  are  informed  by  the  Eev.  W.  G. 
Lawes,  by  letter  from  Port  Moresby,  Jiintiary  20tli,  that  an  expedition  ia 
being  equipped  under  the  leadership  of  Mr.  Vogan,  the  curator  of  the 
Auckland  Museum,  with  the  intention  of  attempting  as  soon  as  the  rainy 

Iseaion  was  over,  to  cross  South-eastern  New  Guinea  from  Freshwater 
Bay  to  Hnon  Gulf.  A  journey  into  the  interior  was  made  in  August 
last  by  Dr.  Clarkson  and  Mr,  G,  Hunter,  from  Kapakapa,  along  the 
depression  between  the  Astrolabe  and  Macgillivray  Coast  Banges.    The 

tiemp- Welch  river  was  crossed,  but  no  addition  of  importance  was  made 

}io  our  knowledge  of  the  country. 

MM,  Capus  and  Bonvalot  in  Central  Asia. — Some  interesting  details 
concerning  the  recent  unsuccessful  attempt  of  these  French  traveUers  to 
penetrate  to  Balkb  across  the  Afghan  frontier,  have  been  received  by  the 
[Geographical  Society  of  Paris  in  two  letters,  the  latest  dated  13th 
January,  1887*  Thoy  started  on  the  13th  September  from  Samarkand 
for  Bokhara,  having  rested  at  the  former  place  sioce  July,*  The  route 
lay  through  the  Takhta-Karacha  pass  to  the  village  of  Shahr-i-sabz,  A 
few  miles  south  of  Samarkand  the  plantations  of  General  Korolkoff 
connnence.  By  utilising  the  waters  of  the  Kara-tepe  and  other  streams 
i  considerable  area  of  hitherto  barren  country  has  been  within  the  space 
of  seven  years  brought  under  cultivation  and  covered  with  acacias, 
mimosas,  fruit-trees,  &c.  The  pass  of  Takhta*Karacha,  though  not  more 
than  5500  feet  high,  is  very  difficult,  especially  on  the  south  side  where 
the  path  is  narrow  and  stony.  Passing  through  Yakobag  and  Kalta-kul 
the  travellers  ascended  to  the  Ahugah  pass,  known  also  under  the  name 
of  Lahore  Murda,  the  top  of  which  Is  at  an  elevation  of  15,58G  feet.  The 
descent  into  the  valley  of  the  Sanguirdak  was  toilsome,  down  a  slope  of 
45%  the  path  running  zigzag  over  stones  and  rubbish.  The  Sangardak, 
one  of  the  affluents  of  the  Surkhan,  is  a  rapid  torrent  rushing  through  a 
wild  narrow  gorge.  All  tMs  district  was  covered  by  the  "  KisMaks " 
or  winter  villages  of  the  Uzbegs,  Tajiks,  and  other  tribes.  A  magnifi- 
cent cascade,  a  rare  thing  in  Centxal  Asia,  was  found  at  Baghcha.  The 
valley  gradually  broadens  as  the  mountains  open  out,  until  the  plain  of 
ar  becomes  visible  in  the  far  distance.  Passing  through  Baridjui 
ad  Karatagh,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Turpalan,  the  travellers  reached 
liasar  on  the  24th  September.  The  plain  ii?  covered  with  fields  of  rice, 
which  is  of  exceptionally  good  quality,  Hissar  itself  is  very  unhealthy, 
and  in  summer  is  practically  abandoned,  the  whole  population  retiring 

•   Vid<  *  Pfooeedingi  E,G.S./  1886,  p,  722, 
No,  IV.— April  1887,]  t 


246 


GEOGKAPHICAL  NOTES. 


to  Earatagh*  At  the  latter  placo  the  party  was  received  by  the  Bey  of 
Hisear.  After  a  fihort  stay  at  Uissar,  the  travellers  descended  the  still 
unexplored  valley  of  the  Kafimahan  to  the  point  where  it  dischargee  into 
the  Amn-Daria.  The  valley,  bordered  with  chains  of  hills,  has  an  average 
breadth  of  about  2 J  miles^  and  is  everywhere  covered  with  saline  efflores- 
cenoes*  The  XJzbegs,  who  are  rarely  met  with  in  the  npper  part  of  the 
valley,  are  vary  nnmerous  near  Kabadian.  They  settle  on  the  rich 
allnvial  gronnd  at  the  many  bends  of  the  river,  or  on  the  little  islands 
with  which  it  ifl  atndded.  The  hills  are  almost  bai-e  of  vegetation. 
Kabadian,  reached  by  the  party  on  Ist  October,  is  situated  in  a  fertile 
oasis  where  the  valley  widens.  The  march  was  continued  down  the 
valley  by  Bish-Kent  to  Aivadj,  on  the  Amu-Baria,  and  thence  to  Termez, 
where  flome  excavations  were  made  among  the  ruins.  On  the  lith 
October  the  traveOers  crossed  the  AmU'Daria,  near  Chnsbka  Guzar,  into 
Afghanistan,  when  they  were  made  prisoners  by  the  Afghans  at  Shnr- 
tepOi  near  the  frontiers,  and  detained  for  25  days  in  a  Turkoman 
sarai.  On  the  8th  November,  by  order  of  the  Emir,  they  were  released, 
and  conducted  across  the  frontier.  The  reason  assigned  for  not  allowing 
them  to  travel  in  Afghanistan  was  that  the  country  was  not  in  a  suffi- 
ciently settled  state.  They  bad  thus  got  within  about  50  miles  of  Balkh, 
their  intended  objective.  After  making  some  further  excavations  at 
Termez,  the  return  journey  was  commenced  up  the  Surkhan  valley  over 
the  mountains  of  Baisun,  to  Derbend,  Near  the  latter  point  they  took 
Lup  the  route  followed  by  them  in  1881,  in  order  to  pass  through  the 
^UftouB  gorge  of  Chatchag.  The  ordinary  route  to  Ghuzar  was  ahan- 
ckmed  in  favour  of  one  more  to  the  north  by  Kara-Koval,  and  through 
the  valley  of  Katta-Uru-Baria.  On  the  8th  December,  after  visiting 
Karabag  and  Ghirakchi,  the  travellers  crossed  the  Russo-Turkistan 
frontier  at  Jam,  and  reached  Samarkand,  having  been  absent  three 
months* 

Arctic  Traveb^Mr.  Alexander  McArthur,  formerly  in  the  servioe 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  loft  Winnipeg  on  February  13th,  on  an 
exploring  expedition  to  the  Polar  regions*  He  intends  to  go  from 
Winnipeg  to  Fort  Churchill,  and  to  continue  bis  journey  along  the 
west  coast  of  Hudson  Bay.  While  Colonel  Gilder  proposed  to  push 
north  by  Fury  and  Hecla  Strait,  Mr.  Mc Arthur  proposes  to  go  north- 
west by  way  of  King  William's  Land  and  Boothia  Felix,  He  intends  to 
spend  a  winter  on  King  William  "s  Land,  and  to  go  north  in  the  ensmng 
winter,  crossing  Lanciister  Sound,  and  followiQg  the  west  coast  of  North 
Devon*  He  then  proposes  to  cross  to  the  little-known  islands  of  Jones 
Sound  and  thns  reach  the  west  coast  of  Grinnell  Land,  which,  he  hopes, 
will  prove  a  safe  route  north.  He  expects  to  be  absent  some  three  or 
four  years.  W©  agree  with  Scienee  in  believing  that  this  plan  of  reaching 
the  North  Pole  will  be  as  unsuccessful  as  Colonel  Gilder's^  and  it  is  a 
pity  that  two  men  so  energetic  should  waste  their  time  in  journeys  that 


GEOGRAPHICAL  KOTKS, 


247 


can  jield  results  of  no  value.  There  ia  at  least  no  reason  why  a  traveller 
who  intends  to  explore  the  extreme  north  should  not  start  from  the 
neare.st  avaOable  point,  iostead  of  wasting  his  time  and  strength  in  a 
hazardous  joiimej  for  which  there  ia  no  neoessity,  Ab  Science  Bnggest8» 
Colonel  Gilder  might  do  real  service  by  devoting  his  energies  to  the 
explot-atton  of  Jones  Sound»  one  of  tbe  most  important  remaining 
problems  of  Arctic  geography.  The  latest  news  with  regard  to  Colonel 
Gilder  is  that  he  has  returned  to  Winnipeg  from  his  Journey  to  Hudson^s 
Bay,  and  has  for  the  present  given  up  his  plan  to  reach  the  North  Pole 
by  that  route. 

The  Rivers  of  New  England. — To  the  March  number  of  the  American 
Journal  of  Science  Professor  N,  S.  Shaler  contributes  an  article  of  some 
geographical  interest  on  the  fluviatile  swamps  of  New  England.  He 
first  notes  the  fact  that  the  greater  number  of  New  Eti  gland  streams 
flow  in  a  genemlly  north  to  south  direotion.  Except  at  tho  head- waters 
of  ithese  southward-flowing  streams >  where  the  brooks  have  too  little 
volume  to  clear  their  beds  of  the  glacial  waste  which  encumbers  them, 
the  valleys  of  the  group  contain  no  swamps.  All  these  southward- 
flowing  streams  show  that  they  have,  for  a  conBidei-able  time,  been 
cutting  their  beds  downwards  through  a  deep  layer  of  detrital  material 
which  was  evidently  deposited  in  their  chitnuols  While  the  ice-sheet  was 
disappearing  from  the  district  in  which  they  lie.  Above  the  alluvial 
plain  are  several  terraces  l>eariug  the  mark  of  river-action.  The  upper- 
most of  these  terraces,  however,  Professor  Shaler  points  out,  is  of  the 
peculiar  form  characteristic  of  the  deposits  which  were  made  at  the 
front  of  the  ice-sheet  when  the  base  of  tho  glacier  lay  below  the  level 
of  the  sea  ;  these  Eame-hearing  terraces  were,  he  believes,  formed  while 
the  valleys  in  which  they  lie  were  depreased*  Omitting  tho  upper 
tennace^  the  other  terraces  prove  that  in  tho  valleys  of  rivers  flowing 
from  north  to  south,  the  conditions  have  been  stich,  that  the  streams 
have  had  no  difficulty  in  constantly  cutting  deeper  and  deeper  into  tho 
detrital  deposits  which  hindered  their  flow  at  tho  dose  of  the  glacial 
period.  Turning  to  the  streams  which  flow  from^  south  to  north, 
we  flod  the  conditions  in  marked  contrast  to  those  which  are  found 
in  the  rivers  flowing  in  the  opposite  direction*  The  number  of  these 
northward- flowing  streams  is  small,  and  none  of  them  have  drainage 
areaii  to  be  compared  with  those  of  the  greater  New  England  rivere. 
Ppofesfior  Shaler's  observation  refers  especially  to  the  Xaahua,  the 
Concord,  tho  Charles,  and  the  Neponset,  all  situated  in  Eastern  Massa- 
chusetts. He  finds  that  along  the  streams  which  flow  from  aouth  to 
north  there  are  no  river-terraces  except  those  which  are  covered  by  the 
ordinary  floods,  and  are  at  times  swampy ;  while  in  the  rivers  flowing 
in  the  opposite  direction,  the  lowest  terrace  is  well  drained  in  the  dry 
season^  The  only  heuehes  or  terraces  are  of  the  Kame  character 
referred  to  above,  and  these  are  very  conspicuous  features  in  some 

T  2 


248 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


©f  the  valleys,  and  by  an  unwary  observer  may  be  taken  for 
ordinary  river-terracea.  A  careful  exaniinatton  of  their  sections 
and  surfaces  proves  distinctly  their  glacial  origin.  Below  the  level 
of  the  Kame  terrace,  the  valleys  of  the  rivers  which  flow  from 
south  to  north  show  no  other  l>enches  till  we  descend  to  the  level 
of  the  present  flood -plain,  which  is  always  covered  with  a  very 
slight  flood.  The  whole  of  this  alluvial  plain  is  swampy,  and  so  far  as 
Professor  Shaler  has  aeen»  there  is  never  any  indication  of  down-cutting 
on  the  part  of  the  stream-bed.  It  is,  moreover,  clear  that  the  reverse 
process  is  now  rapidly  in  action ;  none  of  these  streams  have  sufficient 
currents  to  clear  their  beds  of  the  detritus  brought  into  them  by  floods. 
The  result  is  that  tho  process  of  deposition  is  constantly  going  on,  both 
in  tho  river-bed  and  over  a  wide  field  on  either  side.  At  the  same  time 
Professor  Shaler  produces  evidence  to  indicate  that  at  a  former  period 
these  rivers  had  a  much  more  powerful  current  than  now,  capable  of 
doing  considerablo  excavating  work.  It  thus  appears  probable  that 
after  the  streams  which  flow  to  the  northward  had  in  good  part  done 
their  excavating  work,  a  change  came  over  them  which  led  to  a 
lowering  of  their  slopes  and  a  consequent  diminution  of  their  fall. 
Professor  Shaler  enters  into  considerable  detail  to  show  that  after  the 
removal  of  the  ioe^iheet,  there  was  an  elevation  of  the  land  in  the 
district  concerned,  and  that  during  the  immediate  post-glacial  period 
these  north-flowing  rivers  excavated  their  valleys.  Then  a  change 
must  have  come  about  which  led  to  the  relative  lowering  of  the 
ftouthem  part  of  New  England,  and  a  corresponding  relative  increase 
in  the  height  of  the  northern  part  of  this  section;  Professor  Shaler 
ia  inclined  to  think  there  was  a  positive  sinking  of  the  southern 
section.  The  amonnt  of  tilting  he  estimates  need  not  have  exceeded  two 
feet  to  the  mile,  and  was  most  likely  a  change  which  involved  a  largo 
part^  if  not  the  whole,  of  the  glaciated  district  of  the  continent. 

The  Valley  of  the  Cachapiial  (Argentine  Andes),  —  The  current 
number  of  Petermann's  '  Mittoilungen  *  contains  an  article  by  Br.  A. 
Plagemann  on  his  explorations,  made  last  summer,  in  the  valley  of  the 
CachapuEd.  The  head-quarters  of  the  traveller  were  the  residence  of 
Don  Manuel  Olegario  Soto,  well  known  for  his  hospitality  to  all 
travellers,  situated  in  the  centre  of  tho  Hacienda  of  Canquenes.  Dr. 
Plagemann*s  object  was  to  make  an  exhaustive  examination  of  this  com- 
paratively emaU  but  important  district.  The  results  of  his  work,  while 
confirming  mainly  those  of  the  celebrated  Dr.  Paul  Gilssfeldt  •  and  other 
travellers  in  the  same  region,  will  go  to  complete  our  knowledge  of  the 
details  of  the  country,  and  in  several  instauces  rectify  our  maps.  He 
explored  the  tributaries  on  both  banks  of  tho  Cachapual,  including  the 
Eios  de  los  Cipresses>  del   Cortaderal,  Claro,  do  los  Lenas,  and  the 

•   Vidi '  Frooeodinga  ILQ.SV  1884,  pp.  658  et  seq. 


GECK3RAPH1CAL  NOTES. 


249 


**  cajoB  *'  de  los  Vegas,  devoting  much  time  to  tho  glaciers  at  tbe  head  of 
the  river  vallojB.  The  "  cajon "  del  Cortaderal  contains  a  fin©  glacier 
&B  large  aa  the  magnificent  *^Ada''  glacier  of  tho  *^  cajon  ^*  do  loa 
Cipreeses  which  Br,  Guaafeldt  describes.  The  largest  and  most  im- 
portant glacier  of  the  district,  named  the  **  Yentisq^uero  do  los  Piu- 
quenes^"  was  thoroughly  explored  l>y  the  traveller*  The  head-waters 
of  the  Cachapoal,  he  ascertained,  conisist  of  three  streams,  tbo  Hio  de 
Molina,  Bio  de  los  Fiuqitenea,  and  l?io  de  los  PiuquencLtoe.  The  Rio 
Canquenefi,  marked  on  some  maps,  haa  no  existence.  Dr.  Plagemann 
found  the  " penitentes *'  or  "penitents,**  those  curious  conical  snow- 
formations  in  the  same  high  zone  of  from  11,500  to  13,800  feet  as 
mentioned  bj  Dr*  Giissfeldt.  With  regard  to  the  effect  of  rarefied  air 
on  the  body  at  high  elevations,  neither  he  nor  his  companions  snffered 
at  all ;  he  believes  the  80*called  "  puna "  to  be  connected  in  some  way 
with  the  electrical  condition  of  the  atmosphere*  He  confirms  the 
observation  of  preceding  travellers  as  to  tho  vai-ying  character  of  the 
anow-line,  which  bo  estimates,  in  agrooment  vdih  Herr  Fiasis,  at  10,500 
feet*  The  author  concludes  his  paper  with  some  remarks  upon  the 
different  passes  of  the  Cordillera. 

Proposed  Astronomical  Observatories  on  High  MonntaiiiB.  —  The 
Harvard  College  Obeervatorj^  being  entnisted  with  the  Boyden  fund  of 
230,000  dollars  bequeathed  for  the  purpose  of  promoting  astronomical 
reeearch  at  elevations  free  from  atmospheric  impediments,  has  issued  an 
invitation  to  travellers  and  others  to  furnish  them  with  exact  informa- 
tion regarding  mountain  elevations,' especially  in  the  southern  hemi- 
sphere. Facility  of  access  is  a  prioiary  condition,  and  it  is  probable 
that  a  very  great  altitude  will  be  eventually  chosen  for  a  permanent 
station.  The  points  on  which  detailed  information  is  required  are  as 
follows : — 

1.  Latitude  and  longitude.  Distance  and  direction  tVom  some  town,  or  otlxer 
well-known  point.  Height,  and  how  determined.  2,  Peak,  pass,  or  tableland. 
Character  of  surface :  ledge,  broken  rock,  gravel,  or  covered  with  trees,  shmba,  or 
grasSp  Frevaleoce  of  snow  in  summer,  and  ])eriod  during  which  the  depth  of  snow 
1  in  i^nnter  might  obstruct  the  paths  of  access,  or  occasion  other  inconvenience  or 
damage.  Proximity  of  wood  for  fuel,  and  of  water.  3.  Means  of  accesa,  distance 
fhmi  and  height  above  the  nearest  railway  station,  waggon  road,  bridle-path,  or  fool- 
path*  Time  of  ascent  and  descent.  Nearest  post-otBce  and  telegraph  station,  and 
their  distances  from  the  proposed  station*  Nearest  point  of  road  kept  open  in 
winter.  4.  Observation  of  the  rainfall  at  different  seasons  of  the  year.  Proportion 
of  the  sky  covered  with  clouds  at  different  hours  and  seasons.  These  observations  are 
desired  at  sunset,  sanrise,  and  late  in  the  evening.  Such  observations  may  also  he 
made  of  a  distant  mountain  peak,  confining  the  evening  observations  to  moonlight 
nights.  Observations  of  the  barometer  and  thermometer  are  also  desired.  Informa* 
tion  is  wanted  regarding  the  prevalence  of  very  high  winds ;  the  presence  of  dust, 
haze,  or  the  smoke  from  forest  fires,  rendering  distant  points  invisible ;  and  all  other 
meteorological  phenomena  afifecting  the  value  of  the  station  for  astronomical  pur- 
poses.   If  there  is  a  rainy  or  cloudy  season,  its  duration  j  also  the  regular  recurrence 


250 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


of  clauils,  thunder-storms,  or  wind,  at  any  giveu  hour  of  the  day,  5.  Sketches  or 
photographs  of  tbe  proposed  location,  and  of  jioints  on  the  road ;  also  of  the  view. 

CorreBpondence  is  invitod  with  those  residing  near  or  in  eight  of 
suitable  locations  who  are  willing  to  undertake  any  of  the  ohaervations 
just  descrilied  above.  Letters  should  be  addressed  to  Mr*  E.  C.  Piokering^ 
Director  of  Harvard  College  Obeervatary^  Cambridge,  Mas6.»  U.S.A. 

GeograpMcal  Education.— There  are  several  matters  of  interest  in 
connection  with  the  subject  of  geographical  education  which  have  come 
np  dming  the  past  month.  Bj  a  new  ordinance  of  the  German  Educa- 
tion Department  geography  has  been  raised  to  the  first  rank  ("ein 
selbstiindigeB  Each  "J  in  the  higher  schools  of  Germany ;  that  is,  it  may 
bo  taken  as  one  of  a  teach er*^  two  specialties  along  with  either  a  scien- 
tific, a  linguistie,  or  an  historical  subject.  The  subjects  of  examioation 
for  a  teaoher  wishing  to  take  the  Faculta*  Bocendi  in  geography  are 
laid  down*  There  are  three  grades — for  lower,  middle,  and  higher 
classes.  For  the  lower  classes  the  teacher  must  show  that  ho  has  an 
elementary  but  precise  knowledge  of  mathematical,  physical  (eapecially 
topical),  and  political  geography ;  the  candidate  must  also  be  in  a  posi- 
tion to  demonstrate  the  loading  facts  of  mathematical  geography  by 
means  of  simple  apparatus.  For  a  certificate  of  permission  to  teach  in 
middle  classes,  the  candidate  must  show  a  more  intimate  knowledge  in 
the  above-mentioned  departments,  as  well  as  an  aoquaintance  with  the 
history  of  exploration,  and  with  the  roost  important  trade-routes,  past 
and  present*  For  the  upper  classes  the  candidate  must  show  that  he 
ha^  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  elementary  mathematical  principles  on 
which  mathemalical  geography  ie  based^  and  be  in  a  position  to  give  an 
account  of  the  more  important  geological  conditions  of  the  earth's 
surface.  Moreover,  the  candidate  must  show  that  ho  possesses  an  in- 
telligent knowledge  of  the  political  geography  of  the  present  and  of  the 
politico-historical  geography  of  the  most  important  civilised  peoples,  as 
also  prove  his  familiarity  with  the  leading  facts  of  ethnography.  For  each 
stage,  besides,  the  candidate  must  exhibit  a  readiness  in  the  construction 
of  maps.  In  Germany  it  is  believed  that  tliis  new  ordinance  will  have 
a  powerful  influence  in  still  further  improving  the  position  of  geography 
in  that  country;  In  this  connection  we  may  state  that  a  German 
teacher,  Herr  Anton  Stauber,  of  the  Beal- gymnasium  of  Augsburg,  has 
obtained  tho  King  of  the  Belgians'  prize  of  25,000  francs,  for  the  best 
essay  on  the  most  effective  means  of  popularising  geography  and  im- 
proving its  position  in  education  of  all  degrees.  It  is  worthy  of  note 
that  no  German  was  on  the  committee  of  judges.  In  our  own  country, 
in  connection  with  the  exhibition  of  the  Society's  Educational  Collection 
at  Bradford,  a  series  of  prizes  was  offered  by  the  Bradford  School  Board 
for  (1)  Hand-made  models  of  the  physical  features  of  the  borough; 
(2)  Hand -made  maps  of  any  country ;  (3)  Hand-made  maps  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  any  school;  (4)  Hand-made  model  of  the  neighbourhood  of 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  961 

anv  Echool;  {^oj  Hand-made  apparatus  for  teaching  lAiynuui]  f^*^i^Tii\ihy  i 
acd  loj  A  sketch  of  the  geography  and  associated  on)  of  YfjrkMrtf. 
Thirnr-three  maps  and  models  were  sent  in  for  these  pri/^m,  whirii  wm*^ 
decided  on  Uarch  17th,  the  adjndicators  lx;ing  Professor  Mi*ill  (of 
Yorkshire  College ;,  Mr.  J.  S.  Keltie,  Mr.  T.  G.  lJ<x^pcT.  IT.M.  Infqmfiim 
•jf  S^hcic-Liv  azid  Hr.  A.  B.  Binnie,  the  Borough  En gi  been  Th^^  U«t  itmp 
was  one  of  Yorkshire  hy  Mr.  F.  D.  King,  of  Tfoly  Trinity  ShiidHAi 
Sch'icL  Bndtbrd.  while  a  m«yif:l  of  tho  rjoantry  around  Hk'iptfAtf  by  Mi, 
F.  B.  StkniiTArdr  of  Christ  CharcL  National  Schry^l,  waa  of  high  m^rfft. 
The  physoil  map  of  the  ancitnt  parish  of  Kildwif;k,  }fy  Mr.  X  F* 
HjffwelL  'if  KUdwick  National  School,  also  deserves  mffniUfn.  Tbft 
^suBxaL  iniinynrft  of  such  competidona  in  impressing  up^/n  tead^^^n  tli« 
iapcztaooe  of  zood  appaiacoa  in  teaching  geography  must  \^.  %f^ti,  mbA 
-ixey  difirtiQbre  'ieflerve  enconragement.  The  public  spirit  of  tho  Bra^ 
:*}r4  tTianKnar  Smcol  in  isatinitinz  such,  a  oorApetltion  des^i^i?*  a  w^>rd 
•:f  pcuse. 

Sum.  Ta^a. — The  •  Deu-ache    Oecgraphiache    BUtt/tr '    •'^f 
^nhlxfliiei  ci  biographical  iketch  ..t  Emin  P^aha  ?>y  I>r.  W.  WoJ 
±um  whicii  we  zarher  the  fuLlijwi=.g  particnian.     EdTUizri 
'-iecoBT  known  tm  Emin  Paaxia.  was  bora  ^n  Xarch  2ftth,  l^M),  U  Opyihiy 
in  PrTiwiinii   ^Teaia.  die  «3n  :t  a  merchant-     On  ?he  fsif^vfiv^  n 

I.r4J-  die  mother  psmoveii  v^  N^iase,  *a<i   *xn  -ifvsrw«rjia  ^ 

wemmt  -ime.  SkinaxrL  -vie  f.-im  his  ^jarliesr.  Vnrjilni/v!  *5xhi  :  flu«( 
loT^i  )f  zanuTu.  iifi lorj  -v  iiicii  ]ia»»  •  i  :.«^r ;  n  -jp i  h  ifii ;f!  >. ;  ■.n  ii*/  a  ilM> 
jrr»:iiK  -ime.  jeceL^red  jla  5r:»"  ^::ii:arion  ar,  iho  •'^/m-  -  ini  <if 
Xtriaite,  ind  snbseqnaiilj  iTTUiiiiifi  medicine  ir  rhe  ^ni-rnni^mm  ^ 
Broeian.  Beriin.  uuL  K>inigaherr>  Ha-^^n^  ihcained  his  'i«g^«%  !• 
^tarTcti  ^-r  "lie  East.  )htaineil  ui  inpoinnuenr  m  Harhot 
kt  Anirrar:.  icrompanied  i  militar*  *::pedition  ln&>  ."iTria  4.1 
"."TTi  ^,  ind  iohsenuentiy  be<!ame  irraiihiwi  'xi  :he  linusehniii  <i^ 
P.ifcfia^  -TOoni  "jie  irri^nderi  Vj  Trr^'r.i^fniL  uul  Srzenm.  '"01 
jud  T.anua.  iHa  ^^aimn  iihii  rrw.irri.H  -he  ^ione  if  :;^74.  :«iil  A|^ 
:i?nniizBr  u:com.nanieii  jjs  ramily  'o  \..>Riitannnrjpl*^.  In  ".bft  t^rta^tif 
l::7r^  iie  loidk  ^izut  to  !iis  j:eniia  u  Neiiifle  uid  Breaiaii.  iTis  .gCuwait  di^ 
.i^r*a  javmg  ')een.  -xciteti  "ix-rpadinir  'Jie  TorSa  if  "^in  ipr  T  n  jmd 
Jmsch.  j^  {taarted  rVr  Za^^r.  imi  ^ncpftetxert  in  ^hraining  u  rgrttac- 
Jieni  u  iTircson  _n  -he  irmy.  3bw  lie  mhsenuentiy  <eT-7(hri  inffnr 
rtjrdoxL  3aaha.  uui  rose  -o  -iie  losirion  f  Tfi'«-f-i.rr*or  ^r'  'Iv^  ''  »:/ir;»l 
-'rrrvmce,  j  naner  f  !iutor7. — ^Th*?-  'iTiik  'f  Jr.  Hrnnitzer  ..tUi^w 
vin^ai  "oilection^a.  aiL^nnnn;^  :o  ^"  >•'•  inet^imeni^.  ftiineftni  ni  Jmi^  ten« 
en-  -ij  Dr.  '.  ZarrLauh  \x  3rKnen,  oui  Pinr.  .i.  -on  ?',i7^tn  r^ 
'?omii  'fDr.  Zirtianr/-  ; actors  >ii  -Lii  ^oilrfriorj*  .»r»-r  li^^Ti  »i  ,.. -^ 
■:iir  ^Trxjeetiiaus  f  "he  luOjLOi^iioai  ioi^ierr  -t'  — .ntVm.  oirt  .n 
"hfe  man  t  he  Bnriah  )mithoio;5icai  T-nm-  riw*-;-  .nclui* 
hzpe  -Tieexea  uui  k  :iew  ^emza.  oamed  'Zminia  '  ij  .Ir.  H  ti4^  >• 
:oniiUT    t  -r.e  ^iHc^Tr-rar. 


52    ) 


COEEESPONDENCK 

The  Band-i-Amir  Lakes  and  Moore's  Bmdemeer. 

In  the  article  on  Captaias  Maitland  and  Talbot's  journeys  in  AfghaniBtan,  in  the 
Febraary  number  of  tbe  *  Proceedings*  (p.  104),  it  is  eaid  that,  "  An  excuraion  was 
made  to  the  oelebrated  Band-i-Amir  lakes,  whicli  are  mentioned  by  the  poet  Moore/* 
in  the  following  passage  :^ 

**  There's  a  bower  of  roBea  by  Bendemoer'i  atreum, 

And  the  mghtmgalo  eings  round  it  all  the  day  long; 
In  the  limo  of  my  childhood  *twaa  liko  a  sweet  dream, 
To  iit  in  the  rosea  imd  hear  the  birds'  song." 

The  writer  of  the  article  forgets  that  to  reach  Moore's  *'  Bendemeer*s  stream,"  not 
"  lakes/*  one  must  go  to  Persia,  to  tho  neighbourhood  of.  Slitr^z,  Moore^  in  a  foot^ 
note  to  the  passage  referred  to,  says  it  is  "a  river  which  flows  near  the  ruins  of 
Chilminan" 

In  fact,  the  Band-i-Amlr  referred  to  in  the  article  in  the  *  Proceedings ' — which 
also  is  known  by  another  name,  and  will  be  described  in  my  'Notes  on 
Afghdnist^u,'  aa  soon  as  they  are  allowed  to  see  the  light — ^has  nothing  whatever  to 
do  with  "  that  bower  on  the  banks  of  the  calm  Bendemeer  !*'  of  Lalla  Rookh.  The 
"  river,*'  so-called,  of  Moore's  poem,  was  a  hand  or  dyke,  but  not  a  hand  in  the  usual 
acceptation  of  that  word  as  used  in  India,  hut  a  stone  structure  of  considerabLe 
architectural  beauty,  "  the  like  of  which,*'  the  Muliammadan  historians  say,  "  the 
world  did  not  contain,**  erected  over  the  river  Kur,  near  the  city  of  Shlrdz,  for  the 
purpose  of  irrigating  the  numerous  gardens  and  vineyards  in  the  plain  north-west  of 
the  city,  in  which  there  literally  were  "  bowers  of  roses/'  and  also  for  drinking 
purposes. 

It  was  the  munificent  work  of  the  great  Amir,  *Uzd-ud-Daulah,  Abu-Shuj4*-i- 
Kai-Klmsran,  the  Buwiah  or  Dilami,  sovereign  of  Pars,  and  ivho  caused  many  other 
works  of  public  utility  to  be  erected.  He  came  to  the  throne  in  3^  IL 
(94^-50  A.D.),  »iid  died  in  372  H,  (982-83  a.d.). 

It  is  dangerous  to  jump  at  oonclusions^  in  geographical  and  historioal  matters 
especially,  from  an  apparent  similarity  in  names. 

H*  G.  RAVERTy, 

The  Secretary,  R.G.3.  Ma/or, 

11th  March,  1887: 


The  LengtJis  of  the  Grmted  Rivers, 

Caius  Colleoe,  GAlTBBnSGr,  ' 
Fek  17th,  1887. 

In  connection  with  General  Tillo*s  estimates  of  the  lengths  of  great  rivers,  given  in 
tlie  *  Proceedings*  for  the  present  month,  it  may  be  interesting  to  notice  the  different 
results  we  obtain  as  to  their  relative  lengths,  when  the  minor  windings  of  the  streams 
are  left  out  of  consideration.  Not  only  will  the  order  of  length  of  the  eight  rivers 
given  be  greatly  altered,  but  the  riveia  themselves  included  in  the  list  will  be 
different.  And,  indeed,  by  so  doing  we  obtain  a  more  correct  idea  of  their  compara- 
tive importancCj  sioce  the  lengths  obtained  will  correspond  more  nearly  with  the 
extent  of  country  drained,  or,  at  any  rate,  with  the  extent  of  their  basins  from  source 
to  mouth.  It  seems  unsatisfactory  that  a  river  should  take  a  high  place  en  the  list 
from  mere  accidental  circumstances  which  cause  it  to  take  a  tortuous  course. 

The  proportion  which  the  true  length  of  a  river  bears  to  that  of  its  general  course 


COKRESPONDENCE. 


253 


T&rles  immensely  according  to  sucli  circumstances.  As  a  general  nilc  of  ooursc,  tlie 
greater  the  slope  of  the  country,  the  fewer  Tvindings  will  there  be,  except  where  the 
stream  U  conatAatly  deflected,  io  passiog  tliroush  a  hilly  country.  Again,  a  river  of 
great  volume  will,  owing  to  lis  width,  gain  less  by  the  small  curves  which  would 
iM>t  appear  in  an  ordinary  map.  As  examples  of  the  two  extremes  in  this  respect 
we  may  take  the  Bio  Funis,  wbich  along  its  general  course  measures  only  about 
half  its  true  length,  and  the  St.  Lawrence,  in  which  the  difference  is  inconsiderable. 
Id  an  imperfectly  surveyed  country  the  true  length  can  be  roughly  computed,  by 
aaoeitaining  the  average  ratio  betv,'ceu  the  two  measurements  in  the  case  of  two  well- 
known  rivers.  Captain  Blakiston,  from  his  observations  on  the  Yang-tsze,  sug- 
giested  1*3  :  1  as  this  ratio ;  *  but  owing  to  the  extreme  tortuosity  of  one  part  of  the 
liver,  this  difference  seems  slightly  above  the  average.  It  may  be  observed  that  when 
a  rivier  flows  through  a  nearly  flat  alluvial  plain,  the  tendency  is  for  the  windings  to 
be  gnuiually  increased,  as  the  force  of  the  current  wears  away  the  concave  side  of 
the  curve,  while  the  projecting  points  are  lengthened.f 

Of  the  eight  rivers  of  General  Tillo*^  list,  those  which  owe  their  position  in  it 
mainly  to  the  windings  of  their  stream,  are  the  Mississippi,  Mackenzie^  and  Amur,t 
while  the  Congo  takes  a  lower  place  than  that  to  which  the  length  of  its  general 
oouTBe  would  entitle  it.  In  the  case  of  the  Amazon  this  latest  estimate  corresponds 
more  nearly  with  the  rougher  measurement  than  that  given  in  most  lists  a  few  years 
ogcv  in  wbich,  in  spite  of  its  great  breadth,  a  proportion  of  over  1  in  2  was  added 
OQ  /or  windings  not  appearing  in  a  small-scale  map.  The  order  m  which  the 
■ame  eight  will  be  put  down  on  the  other  plan,  and  the  approximate  lengths 
of  their  general  course,  will  be— (1)  Kile,  3100  miles  j  (2)  Yang-tsze-kiang,  2750  j 
(3)  Yenesei-Selenga,  2700 ;  (4)  Amazon,  2600  ;  (5)  Mississippi  and  Congo,  2500 ; 
(T)  Amur,  2200 ;  (8)  Mackeniie,  1800.  The  Mackenzie  now  falk  far  short  of,  and 
the  Amur  is  equalled  by  several  rivers  not  included  m  the  above  list,  viz.  the 
Hoang-ho,  Lena,  Obi -Irtish,  and  Mekong,  while  the  Niger  and  Parana  are  very  little 
behind  these.  These  measurements  are  to  a  certain  extent  proportional  to  the 
direct  distances  from  source  to  mouth,  in  wliich  res-pect  the  Nile  far  surjeissea  any 
other  river. 

It  13  often  said  that  the  rivers  of  Asia  are  inferior  in  length  to  those  of  America 
owiug  to  the  position  of  the  mountain  ranges  near  the  oentre  in  the  former  case,  and 
near  one  side  in  the  latter.  But  from  the  above  figures  we  see  that  the  Asiatic 
rivers,  in  spite  of  the  conformation  of  the  country,  would  quite  equal  those  of 
America,  were  it  not  for  the  much  greater  tortuosity  of  the  latter.  Of  course  the 
icaiOQ  mentioned,  together  with  the  fact  of  the  vast  area  of  inland  drainage  in 
Asia,  accounts  for  the  non-existence  there  of  rivers  far  surpassing  those  of  any  other 
part  of  the  world,  which  the  immense  size  of  the  continent  would  lead  us  to  expect. 
Such  a  river  might  have  existed,  even  with  the  present  dis|X)sition  of  the  main 
ranges,  if  the  depresaion  of  Lob  Nor  had  not  prevented  the  drainage  of  Eastern 
Turkeetan  from  reaching  the  sea,  or  if  the  drainage  into  the  Sea  of  Aral  had  been 
ttrried  on  into  the  Obi,  which  last  some  have  conjectured  to  have  been  the  case  in 
ancient  times, 

I  may  notice  that  if,  as  is  laid  down  in  the  map  embodying  the  results  of  A — k's 
surveya,  the  Nak-chu-kha  of  Tibet  flows  into  the  Lan-tsang-kiang  instead  of 
tbe  Lu'klang,  the  Mekong  ought  probably  to  have  a  place  among  the  eight  longest 
rivers  in  the  world. 

Edwaed  Hkawood. 


•  *  The  Yang-tse,*  p.  296,  t  Ibid.,  p.  97. 

♦  At  one  part  of  the  Upper  Amur  a  voyage  of  20  miles  hrinp  one  back  to  a  point 
half  a  mile  from  the  starting-point  (ri**?  Batea*  *  Illustrated  Traveli*/  i-  p.  *i47. 


C    254    ) 


KEPOET  OF  THE  ETENIN&  BIEETINGS,  SESSION  1886-7. 

Seventh  Meeting,  Fehrmry  2Sih,  1887- — General  E.  Strachby,  r.e.,  f.r,s,, 
Vice-President,  in  the  Cliair. 

Elkctioks.^ — Eev.  John  F.  Bramston  ;  Capt,  Archibald  I>rummond  (Scots 
Guarda) ;  Geo,  T.  Fernet/hough,  Esq. ;  Edward  John  Eaks^  Eiq. ;  JJev.  H.  P. 
Bigginion-Whyts-MeUille ;  Lakshmi  Nardyanu^  Esq.;  Albert  Oeorge Parrot ,  Esq.; 
Itichard  Adolf  Ploetz,  Eaq.y  M.A. ;  W,  P.  Simdairf  E$q.^  m.p,  ;  WiUtam  Ja$.  Joseph 
Spry,  Esq, ;  J?.  E,  Tliompsonr,  Esq,,  b.a. 

PBESBJITATION.^IF.  £,  ^amUtm,  Eaq, 

ESTABUSMMEKT  OF   A  EeADELESUIP   OF    GeOGEAFHY   AT  QXFOBD. 

On  opening  the  bosiness  of  Ibe  MeetiDg,  the  Chairman  announced  thatin  reiponse 
to  a  proposal  that  was  made  to  the  University  of  Oxford  lost  Btimmer^  the  (k»\mcil 
had  received  a  oommuEication  to  the  effect  that  the  UDiTeraitj  had  determined  to 
appoint  a  Lecturer  of  Geography  for  fire  yeara ;  bo  that  as  regards  Oxford  ^  the  aapira- 
tions  of  the  Society  had  been  realised.  He  was  sure  that  the  Fellows  would  be  glad 
to  hear  that  the  UniTersity  of  Oxford  had  taken  this  step.  A  dmilar  application 
had  been  made  to  Cambridge,  but  the  negotiations  were  not  sufficiently  advanoed  to 
enable  him  to  make  any  definite  statement  with  regard  to  it  He  thought,  however, 
there  was  every  probabiUty  of  Cambridge  following  in  the  direction  ifx  which  Oxford 
was  now  leading. 

The  following  jiaper  was  read : — "  Prejevalaky*s  Journeys  and  Discoveries  in 
Central  Asia-"    By  E.  Delmar  Morgan,  Esq,    Ante,  p.  213. 


Eighth  Meeting,  March  14ih,  1887.— Frakcis  Galtok^  Esq.,   f,r,s., 
Vice-Presidoiit,  in  the  Chair. 

Elections.— Mayor  Patrick  Qm.  Craigie;  Arthur  Willis  Danthwaiie^  Esq,^ 
ii<D,  ;  Stankif  Edwards,  Esq^ ;  Mev^  Mithad  Graves ;  Cdonel  Eenry  Lumsdai 
(Loud.  Scot.  E.y.);  Menry  MocJtford,  Esq.;  Gerald  Statilesf  PhUip^  Esq.;  [F, 
liat/nwnd.  Esq, ;  Percy  Cliarks  Pmd,  Esq, ;  E.  E.  Wilson^  Esq, 

Phbskntationb. — N,  Prowtr,  Esq, 

The  jiaper  of  the  evening  was  •*  The  Alpine  Ilegiona  of  Alaska."  By  Lieut. 
H.  W.  Seton-Karr  (92nd  Highlanders). 


PEOCEEDINGS  OF  FOEEIGN  SOCIETIES. 

Oeographical  Society  of  Paris.— February  4th,  1887 :  M.  Jaksben  in  the 
Chair.— M.  G.  Boll  and  forwarded  copy  of  a  paper  read  by  General  Perrier  belbre  a 
recent  meeting  of  the  Academy  of  Sciences^  on  the  artesian  wells  and  oases  created 
by  the  French  in  Ued  Eir  (South  Algeria).  The  correspondent  took  the  opportunity 
of  pointing  out  the  complete  suooess  of  this  system  of  irrigation.  Already  five  oases 
hod  been  formed  and  planted  in  this  district ;  one  company  hod  made  seven  artesian 
wells  and  planted  50,000  date-palms, — A  note  was  read  from  Dr.  Labonne  with 
reference  to  M,  Feddersen's  recent  paper  given  at  Copenhagen  on  the  subject  of  the 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES, 


9S5 


aodeDt  TegetatioD  of  IceL&Dd.  I)r.  Laboune  maintaiDs  that  the  trunkB  of  great  trees 
found  there  hy  M*  Feddersen  were  carried  up  into  the  Valley  of  the  GeyaerB  hy  the 
isea,  an  arm  of  which  formerly  penetrated  into  the  south  part  of  the  island,  and  that 
they  were  covered  over  by  a  volcanic  eruption.  He  points  out  that  all  these  tree 
tnmlu  are  found  lying  horizontally,  and  that  their  apeciejj  differs  from  the  present 
dwarf  bniahwood,-^M,  E,  Hangsen-Blaugsted  informed  the  Society  that  the  popu- 
lation of  Sweden  on  the  3 1st  Decemlxjr,  1886,  numbered  4,720,000,  accordiag  to 
the  of&cial  report,— Tho  Minister  of  Public  Instruction  forwarded  a  letter,  dated 
20tL  December,  1886,  from  MM.  Capus  and  Bonvalot,  now  travelling  in  Central 
Asia, — An  extract  from  the  Chinese  Tirnes^  on  the  opening  of  the  first  French 
railway  in  China,  was  Bent  by  M.  Decauville.  The  line  runs  from  Tien-tsin  to 
Ching-Yang,  a  distance  of  only  two  miles,  hut  it  is  extremely  popular  among  the 
natiree,  and  will  doubtless  lead  the  way  for  more  important  undertakings. — 
Writing  from  Arecife  de  Lanzarote  (Canary  lelands),  on  the  8th  January,  M,  Camille 
Douls  announced  that  he  was  about  to  start  on  a  journey  across  Uad^Dra&t  and 
Suss,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs.  This  country  had 
been  but  pftrtially  explored,  and  he  would  inform  the  Society  from  time  to  time  of 
the  geographical  results  of  his  mission, — The  operations  of  the  French  in  1886  lu 
the  weetem  Sudan  were  set  forth  in  report  received  from  the  Upper  Niger, — Br, 
Boaire  presented  a  book  on  behalf  of  the  author,  M,  Yalery-Mayet,  which  gives  au 
tooount  of  the  explorations  of  the  latter  in  South  Tunis,  In  commenting  upon  this 
work  Dr,  Eouire  observed  that  H.  Valery-Mayet,  who  was  professor  of  zoology  at  the 
School  of  Agriculture  at  Montpellier,  was  entrusted  by  the  Minister  of  Public 
Bustiuction  with  this  mission  of  seientiEc  exploration  in  Tunis.  Starting  &om  Bfax, 
he  had  travelled  over  the  country  between  that  town  and  Gassa  and  then  on  to 
Gabes  and  Zarzis.  His  book  was  fall  of  the  moat  valoable  information  on  the 
fauna  and  flora  of  Tunis ;  his  observations  on  the  gum-tree  being  very  interesting, 
lie  confirms  the  ancient  geographers  in  their  description  of  the  conn  try  ,^The 
Minister  of  Public  Instruction  forwarded  a  letter  from  M.  Ph.  Pinellij  dated  ifom 
Ciudad  Bolivar,  15th  December,  1B86,  according  to  which  M.  Chaffianjon,  the 
traveller  on  the  Orinoco,  had  started  from  San  Fernando  de  Atabspo  and  was 
then  exploring  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the  head- waters  of  the  Orinoco, 
— M,  William  Huber,  Vice-President  of  the  Central  Commission  and  General 
Secretary  of  the  Commisaion  on  Friaes,  announced  the  awards  made  by  the 
Sodety  for  the  year  1887 ;— Gold  Medal  to  Captain  Chae.  Bouvier,  of  the  Navy, 
for  his  geographical  and  topographical  work  in  the  French  Congo  region ;  Gold 
Medal  to  M,  Fritsche,  Director  of  the  Russian  Observatory  at  Fekin,  for  liis 
numerous  journeys  in  the  north  of  China  during  the  last  sijEtecn  years }  Gold  Medal 
to  M.  Joseph  Martin  in  consideration  of  his  Siberian  travels  and  particularly  his 
itinerary  in  the  still  tit  tie*  known  country  between  the  Lena  and  the  Amur  ;  Silver 
Medal  to  M.  Alph.  Aubrey,  civil  engineer,  for  the  geographical  resulta  of  his  mission 
to  Sboa ;  the  **  La  Roquette  "prize  to  Lieutenant  A,  W.  Greely,  of  the  American 
Army,  for  his  expedition  to  Smith  Sound  and  his  meteorological  and  magnetic 
observations ;  the  **  Erhard  "  prize  to  M.  Grcnier,  of  the  Naval  Map  Depfit ;  and  the 
"  Jomard*^  prize  to  M,  Joret  in  recognition  of  his  biography  of  M,  Tavemier,  the 
great  French  traveller.— M,  Venukoff  presented  a  memoir  written  by  himself  on 
the  navigability  of  the  riverg  of  Eastern  Europe  and  also  an  excellent  map  of 
the  environs  of  Lake  Baikal,  published  by  M*  Tchersky,  on  scale  1 :  420,000,  which 
shows  the  depths. — ^In  conclusion,  a  paper  was  read  by  M.  J.  Renaud,  hydro  graphical 
engineer,  on  the  harbours  of  Toaking.  The  writer  dwelt  on  the  factitious  develop- 
ment  of  Haiphong,  which  he  said  could  never  l>e  a  great  port  in  consequence  of  two 
sandy  bars  at  tbe  mouth  of  the  river,    Hon-Gac,  in  the  Bay  of  Halong,  was 


256 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES* 


dcstmed  to  become  the  harbour  of  tho  future,  being  in  communication  with  the 
heart  of  the  delta  by  means  of  canals ;  a  railway  connectiog  it  with  Hanoi  could  be 
mado  without  much  difficulty.  The  roadstead  of  Haloug  was  accessible  in  all 
weather,  at  all  times  of  the  tide  and  to  shipa  of  the  greatest  tonnage.  Though 
not  unhealthy,  it^  situation  in  this  respect  was  inferior  to  that  of  Haiphong, — The 
report  of  the  Society's  Librarian  for  1886  showed  additions  during  the  year  of  1038 
workB,  comprising  1249  volumes,  114  maps  in  249  sheets,  42  atlases,  and  231G 
photogmphs,  besides  numerous  periodicals. 

February  lath,  1887 :  M.  W.  Huber,  Vice-President  of  the  Ceotnil 

Commission,  in  the  Chair. — Among  the  letters  read  at  the  commencement  of  the 
meeting  was  one  from  M.  W.  Martin  on  the  place  of  Tavernier's  death,  a  question 
which  had  been  before  the  Society  on  several  occasions*  The  writer  quoted  the 
statements  of  MM*  Haag,  who  assert  that  the  great  traveller  died  at  Copenhagen, 
and  not  at  Moscow,  as  supposed,  M*  Joret,  the  biographer  of  Tavemier,  upheld  the 
latter  view.  Tho  Chairman  suggested  that  steps  should  be  taken  by  the  Society  to 
clear  up  this  point — M.  R.  du  Caillaud  sent  a  risumi  of  recent  articles  in  several 
religious  papers  which  jiosscssed  geographical  interest*  The  following  facts  may 
be  mentioned.  The  Germans  had  established  a  station  at  a  point  two  hours*  march 
east  of  Mrogoro  (Africa).  A  young  Swedish  officer  had  arrived  at  the  latter  place 
from  the  Congo.  After  a  two  years'  engagement  with  the  International  African 
Association^at  Stanley  Falls,  he  set  out  for  the  East  Coast  with  a  few  men  and  hardly 
any  provisions.  Deducting  the  time  of  his  residence  at  the  Falls,  he  had  croesed  the 
continent  by  the  Congo  route  in  the  very  short  time  of  from  nine  to  ten  months. 
At  Benito,  on  the  West  Coast,  th©  **  Mission  du  Saiol-Esprit  '*  had  established  a 
station, — A  letter  was  read  from  M,  Fr,  Scbrader,  Member  of  Central  Commission, 
on  the  subject  of  M.  do  Saint  Sand's  paper  on  the  Pyrenees,  given  at  a  recent 
meeting. — The  Minister  of  Public  Instruction  communicated  a  letter  from  MM. 
CapuB  and  Bonvalot,  written  from  Samarkand,  and  giving  the  news  of  their  ex- 
IKjdition  down  to  the  ISth  January  last.^The  Chairman  alluded  to  the  presence 
at  the  meeting  of  Lieut.  0.  Giraud,  lately  returned  from  Tongking,  and  MM. 
Dufourcq,  Becazes,  and  Ponel,  three  of  the  most  energetic  colleagues  of  M.  de 
Brazza  on  the  Congo.  He  hoped  that  the  Society  would  have  the  pleasure  of 
listening  to  pajiers  from  these  tmvellers  at  no  distant  date.— ^In  conclusion,  M,  J. 
Thoulet  gave  on  account  of  the  voyage  he  had  just  made  along  the  coasts  of  New- 
foundland in  the  ship  La  Clorinde^  with  the  object  of  studying  several  important 
questions  relative  to  the  hydrography  and  geology  of  these  parts.  With  regard  to 
the  banks  extending  along  the  sc^uth  of  Newfoundland,  he  said  that  Maurj'  had 
attributed  their  formation  to  the  deix>sit  of  mineral  matter  brought  down  from 
Greenland  by  the  iceberi^s,  which  here  come  under  the  influence  of  the  warm  waters 
of  the  Gulf  Stream.  M,  Thoulet  was  of  opinion  that  the  icebergs  had  nothing  to  do 
with  this  formation,  which  he  stated  was  due  to  the  erosion  by  the  frost,  and  the 
carrying  away  by  the  coasting  ice,  of  tho  rocks  on  the  west  coast  of  Newfoundland 
snd  Labrador. 

Geo^aphical  Society  of  Berlin, — February  6th,  1887 :  Professor  Sachact 
in  tlie  Clmir, — A  letter  was  read  from  Br.  Junker,  dated  from  Cairo,  January  24th, 
in  which  the  traveller  informed  the  President  that  he  intended  to  remain  some  time 
in  Cairo  to  recover  his  health,  and  avoid  a  too  rapid  change  of  climate.  He  woulcf 
then  proceed  to  St,  Petersburg,  where  his  relatives  resided,  and  on  his  journey 
thither  would  give  an  account  of  his  travels  to  the  BerUn  Geographical  Society, — 
Herr  Staudinger  (Member  of  the  Flegel  expedition  to  the  Niger)  then  addressed 
the  meeting  on  his  journey,  m  company  with  Herr  Harbert,  to  Sokoto.  From  Loko 
on  the  Benu^i  the  expedition  proceeded  vi^  Anassarawa,  Iveffi  and  Kashia  to  Saria 


PROCEEDIKGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIEa 


257 


Aa  the  chief  of  Sana  would  not  permit  tlie  expedition  to  travel  alone  and 
wltbout  protection  lliroagli  tbe  robber- mfea ted  forest  district  of  Katoahena  on  the 
north-west  of  Saria,  the  travellers  were  obliged  against  their  will  to  remain  soveral 
months  in  this  town,  a  delay  which  they  profited  by  fn  making  an  excursion  to 
Kano,  six  days*  journey  distant,  whence  it  would  have  been  easy  to  reach  Kuka  if 
time  and  money  had  been  at  their  disposal.  On  the  9th  December,  1885,  the 
expedition  was  at  last  able  to  leave,  in  the  retinue  of  tbe  Saria  chief,  who  had  to 
take  to  the  8ultan  of  Sokoto  the  customary  tribute.  At  Gidan  Goga  tbe  Sultan 
give  them  a  very  friendly  reception,  and  accepted  the  letter  and  presents  from  the 
Emperor  of  Germany,  granting  full  liberty  to  Germans  to  reside  and  trade  in  Ms 
country.  They  had  permission  to  visit  Sokoto  and  Wurna  as  well  as  the  province 
of  Gandii  which  is  governed  by  the  Suitan*s  younger  brother.  The  expedition 
returned  from  Sokoto  on  tbe  20th  April,  1886j  by  the  same  route  to  Loko  on  the 
Benue,  the  slender  means  at  their  disposal  not  permitting  them,  as  they  originally 
intended,  to  varj'  their  route  by  visiting  the  hitherto  unexplored  district  extending 
from  Bauchi  and  Muri  to  Jols* 

March  StTi,  1887 :  Professor  Sachau  in  the  Chair,— A  paper  was  read  by 

Dr.  Snouck  Hurgronje  of  Leyden,  on  bis  six  months'  residence  in  Mecca,  where  he 
remained  in  the  disguise  of  a  Mahommedan  Effendi,  from  February  to  August  1885, 
with  the  object  of  studying,  on  a  spot  free  from  Earojiean  influenoes,  the  real  life 
of  Islam  and  its  power  over  other  lands,  especially  the  Dutch  East  Indies. 
Dr*  Horgronje  was  tbe  fifth  European  who  had  visited  Mecca;  previously  there 
have  been  a  Si)aniard  under  the  name  of  Ali  ]3ey  el-Abbaei,  F*  L,  Burckhardt, 
Capt.  R,  F.  Burton,  and  J ,  F.  Keane  (de  Maltzan  s  *  Peleriuage  a  la  Mecquc  * 
contains  only  well-known  facta  and  hearsay  inaccuracies).  Dr.  Hurgronje,  more- 
over, is  the  first  traveller  who  has  lived  for  a  long  time  in  the  metropolis  of  Islam,  and 
not  merely  as  a  pilgrim  in  the  season  of  the  pilgrimage.  He  made  first  a  stay  of  five 
months  in  Jedda,  in  order  to  get  acquainted  with  people  from  Mecca.  Tho  in- 
hahitanta  of  Jedda  live  chiefly  on  their  trade  with  pilgrims ;  every  Meccan  leader  and 
guide  of  pilgrims  (Sheikh)  has  his  agents  (Vakil)  who  form  an  important  class,  and  he 
deals  with  a  definite  class  of  pilgrims  whose  languages  and  customs  he  understands, 
leading  them  to  the  holy  city  and  caring  for  their  living  until  with  lightened  purses 
they  start  on  their  homeward  journey.  Many  of  these  sheikhs  have  twenty  to  thirty 
subordinates,  and  180  sheikhs  deal  only  with  the  Malayan  pilgrims.  The  road  between 
Jedda  and  Mecca  is  protected  by  eight  small  forts  a^nst  robbers.  The  journey  can 
he  accomplished,  on  an  ass,  in  fourteen  hours.  The  appearance  of  the  city  has  changed 
scarcely  at  all  since  BuTckhardl*d  time.  In  the  middle  of  the  narrow,  north  and  south- 
lying,  valley  stands  the  mosque,  in  an  open  court,  surrounded  with  a  colonnade,  in 
the  middle  of  which  is  seen  the  Ka'ahaj  the  sanctuary  of  the  ancient  Arabians,  The 
mosque  covers  a  s]Tace  of  21  hectares.  Tbe  surface  of  the  city  ground  is  rising  gradually 
through  the  accumulation  of  detritus  washed  down  into  tlie  valley  by  rains  from 
the  neighbouring  heights,  but  around  the  mosque  tbe  soil  is  kept  to  the  same  level 
by  artificial  means.  All  rain  from  the  eastward  brings  floods  to  the  city.  The 
"  black  stone/'  five  feet  high,  is  built  into  the  eastern  angle  of  the  Ka'aba,  and  bound 
by  a  silver  ring.  There  are  many  such  black  stones  in  Mecca,  which  are  reverenti- 
ally regarded  by  tho  faithful,  though  not  officially  sanctioned.  On  this  account  the 
stone  cannot  well  be  an  aerolite.  Ou  Abu  Gibez,  the  holy  mount  to  the  east  of 
Mecca,  Dr.  Hurgronje  found  a  stone  exactly  similar.  He  brought  home  a  sample  of 
the  water  of  the  holy  spring  Zemzera,  which  on  being  analysed  proved  to  contain  a 
considerable  quantity  of  bitter  salt.  A  conduit  50  kilometres  in  length  supplies 
Mecca  with  fpesh  water,  and  there  are  public  fountains  in  each  street  which  have 
been  perfectly  restored  through  the  able  Governor,  Othman  Pasha,  the  Wali  WOlyet 


258 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 


el-Hidjar,  The  populatioE  is  veiy  mixed,  Hi^iramaut  supplies  chiefly  traders, 
Egypt  traders^  handicmftsineDj  professors  of  the  healing  art,  and  many  iiiarrift^jeable 
girlB*  Yemen,  Syria,  the  Magrib,  Bokhara  aad  Afghanistan,  India  and  the  Malay 
Archipelago  are  also  numerously  represented.  This  diversified  assemblage,  however^ 
is  quickly  asaimilated,  and  takes  the  peculiar  character  of  the  Koralshite  nucleus  of  the 
population.  Eastern  aod  Central  Africa  contribute  numerous  negro  slaTes^  who 
are  here  well  treate<l,  and  after  several  years*  service  frequently  received  into  society 
as  free  men.  The  Mecca  people  form  numerous  corporations,  ^ilds,  aristocracies  of 
Seyyids  and  Sherifes;  but  their  importance  is  nullified  by  the  vigorous  action  of  the 
Government,  The  city  is  divided  into  fifteen  districts  without  visible  boundaries, 
and  fends  arising  from  trifting  causes  often  break  out  between  the  inhabitants  of 
different  districts,  which  are  sometimes  fought  out  with  abusive  words  or  knives 
outside  the  city.  The  character  of  the  people  is  generally  humane,  hospitable,  and 
sociable;  it  is  only  during  the  pilgrim  months,  when  each  one  has  to  care  for  himself 
and  get  all  he  can  during  the  short  time,  that  they  appear  greedy  and  av&ricioug. 
Through  an  indiscretion  of  the  French  Vice-Consul  at  Jedda  in  betraying  him,  Dr, 
Huigronje  waa  Huddenly  seiMd  and  ejected  from  Mecca,  barely  escaping  with  his 
life. 


NEW  GEOGBAPmCAL  PUBLICATIONS, 

(By  J.  SooTT  Keltie,  Librarian  B.o.s,) 
EUBOPK 

Forel,  [Br J  F*  A,  ^  Lc  Lac  Leman.     Precis  Scicntifique,     2"*"  Edition,   revue 

et  augment^e.    Geneve,  11,  Georg,  1886  ;  8vo.,  pp*  76.  [Presented  by  the  Author*] 

This  hrochure  originally  appeared  aa  a  contribution  to  the  volume  on  Mont- 

*  reus,  published  in  1877,    Br,  Forel  has  done  well  to  bring  it  down  to  date 

and  publish  it  separately.     It  is  really  a  succinct  but  complete  account  of  tlic 

interesting  lake  in  all  its  aspects,  and  embraces  the  results  of  Dr,  ForePs  own 

very  valuable  researches. 

Mahafiy,  J»  F*  —  Rambles  and  Studies  in  Greece.  Third  edition.  London, 
Macmillan  &  Co,,  18B7:  8vo,,  pp,  xviii.  and  465,  map  and  illustrations. 
Price  IQs.  6d     [Presented  by  the  Publishers,] 

KmoMiLf  James  Oeorge  Cotton.  -^  The  Growth  of  Freedom  in  the  Balkan 
Peninsula.  Notes  of  a  Traveller  in  Montenegro,  Bosnia,  Servia,  Bulgaria,  and 
Greece.  With  Historical  and  Descriptive  Sketches  of  the  People.  London,  John 
Murray,  1886 :  8vo,,  pp.  xvi.  and  415,    Price  10«.  6d. 

Describes  the  general  coudition  of  things  in  the  Balkan  Peninsula,  more 
particularly  in  their  political  aspect.  Some  of  the  matter  has  already  appeared 
m  the  Times  and  the  Morning  AdvertueTj  but  there  is  much  that  is  new. 
The  concluding  chapters  of  the  work  deal  with  the  social  life  of  the  Bulgarians. 
There  is  a  map  of  the  Balkan  States. 

[l^EBiaiiiE,]^ — Annnles  de  Plnstitut  Mdt^orologique  de  Eoumame,  Par  Ste&a 
G.  Hepites,  Directeur.  ISSij.  Tome  L  Bucharest,  1886 ;  4to»,  ppw  cxixviii,  and 
367,    [Presented  by  M.  Hepites,] 

Geographers  as  well  as  meteorologists  will  welcome  this  volume  as  a  token  of 
a  serious  effort  to  work  out  the  climate  of  Roumania.  The  introduction  contains 
a  history  of  meteorological  researches  in  Roumania, 

Temperatur-mittel  aus  der  Periodo  1851-1885 :  fur  die  CaterreichiBcheii  Alpen 
und  deren  Grenzgebiete,    4  to,,  pp.  30. 


NEW  OEOGRiJ'HICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 


259 


ASIA. 
Conder,  Claude  Eeignier— Syrian  Stoae-Lore ;  or.  The  Monumental  History  of 
Palestine^      Published  for  the  Committee  of  tho   Pftlestitie  Exploration   Fund. 
London,  R.  Bentley  &  Son,  1886 :  8vo.,  pp,  xiv,  and  472,  maps.     Price  7«.  6d. 
This  is  a  treatise  on  the  ancient  condition  of  Palestine  from  the  earliest 
recorded  timea  down  to  the  close  of  the  Frank  dominion.     It  diBCtisies  the 
social  condition  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  country,  their  race— origina,  langnages, 
rdigion%  social  cnstoma,  government^  art,  literature,  and  trade.     The  anther 
fioiuiida  the  present   review  of  the  reanlta  of  exploration   and  research   not 
an  the  Biblical  narratives,  hut  on  monumental  records ;   and  endeavours  in 
the  early  chnpters  to  show  what  could  be  known  of  Sjrria  and  of  ita  inliabitants, 
Hebrews^  Hittites,  Phoenicians,  <&c.,  were  there  nothing  left  to  us  of  a  Hebrew 
literature.    There  are  three  maps  as  follows :— 1.  Map  of  Syria  in  1300  bx,  ; 
2.  Map  of  Syria  in  500  A.n. ;  3.  Map  of  Syria  about  1180  a.d. 

Biener,  [BrJ  Carl. — libanon.  Gruntllinien  der  Physischen  Geographie  mod 
Geologic  von  Mittel-Syrien.    Wien,  Holder,  1886 :  8vo,,  pp^  x,  and  412*     Price 

The  guiding  principle  of  Dr.  Biener's  work  is  tho  ^  intimate  relation  which 
exists  between  the  geology  and  geography  of  a  limited  region  like  tliat  em- 
bf«oed  in  the  volume,  Dr,  Diener  has  made  a  very  thorough  study  of  Central 
Syria,  and  the  results  are  a  useful  contribution  to  scientific  geography.  In  the 
first  section  he  gives  a  general  view  of  the  stratigraphical  condition  of  Central 
Syria ;  followed  by  sections  on  the  littoral  of  Phoenicia  and  the  Lebanon  ;  the 
deprassion  r^ion  of  Coelo-Syria ;  th(*  Antilibanna  and  the  system  of  Palmyra 
ridges;  the  leading  lines  of  the  Lebanon  ^stem  and  their  relations  to  the 
itractTire  of  Western  Asia  and  the  Eastern  Mediterraoean  basin.  The  volume 
contains  a  considerable  '.number  of  fine  photographs  besides  maAy  woodcut 
illustrations,  sections,  and  ma|>s* 

Hull,  Edward  CXL.B.,  F.E.S.]— Mount  Seir,  Sinai,  and  Western  Palestine.  Being 
a  Narrative  of  a  Scientific  Expedition.  Majia  and  illustrations.  Published  for 
the  Committee  of  the  Palestine  Exploration  Fund  by  Richard  Bentley  &  Son, 
1885 :  8va,  pp.  xvi.  and  227.     Price  10s.  6d. 

The  geological  results  of  Dr.  Hull's  expedition  to  Palestine  have  alreadv 
been  noticed  in  the  *  Proceeeings  *  for  1886,  p,  343.  The  present  volume  con- 
tains the  narrative  of  the  expedition,  and  therefore  gives  many  geographical 
detail.^}  unsuited  to  the  geological  treatise.  The  maps,  sections,  and  illustrations 
are  useful. 

[India.] — Memoirs  of  the  Geological  Survey  of  India.  Palieontologia  Indica  ,  .  .  . 
Ser.  XIL  The  Foaail  Flora  of  the  Gondwfina  System.  Vol  IT.  Part  2.  The 
Fossil  Flora  of  some  of  the  Coalfields  in  Western  Bengal,  By  Ottokar  Feist- 
mantel,  M.D.  Calcutta,  Geological  Survey  Office,  Jtc. ;  London,  Tnibner  Sc  Co. 
1886 :  folio,  pp.  iv.  and  71,  plates. 

Ditto.    Ser.  XIII.    SalUBange  Fosails.    By  WiEiam  Waagen,  ph.d.,  r.o.s. 

L    Productus-Limestooe  Fossils.     6.   Ccclcnterata,     Calcutta,  ditto;    London, 
ditto^l886:  folio,  plates. 

Lydekker,  Mcbard.— Catalogue  of  the  Eeinaina  of  Siwalik  Vertebrata  contained 
in  the  Geological  Department  of  the  Indian  Museum,  Calcutta.  Part  I.  Mam- 
malia.    Calcutta,  printed  by  the  Superintendent  of  Government  Printing^  India, 

•    1885 :  8vo.,  pp.  X.  and  116. 

Ditto.     Part  IL    Aves,  Beptilia,  and  Pisces.     Calcutta,  ditto,  1886 :  8vo., 

ppw  vii  and  26. 

Catalogue  of  the  Remains  of  Pleistocene  and  Pre-historic  Yertebrata  con- 

taiced  in  the  Geological  Department  of  the  Indian  Museum,  Calcutta.    Calcutta, 
ditto,  1886:  8vo.,  pp.  vi.  and  16, 


^260*  KKW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIOKS. 

Memorio  vnB  het  Eealtiur  iler  Nederlnndsch-Indische  Maatschappij  ran  Nijverlieid 
en  Laadbouw  t©  Batavta  aan  de  Directenren  der  NederlaBdache  Maatschappij  ter 
bevordetiDg  van  Nijverlieid  te  Haarlem  over  de  Pakketvaart  in  Nederkodscli- 
Inditi.     Batavia,  Ogilvie  &  Co*j  1886;  8vo,t  pp.  111. 

Tiie  Biicred  Books  of  the  East.  Translated  by  various  Oriental  Scholars,  and  edited 
by  F.  Max  Miiller.  VoIb.  XXV.  and  XXIX.  Oxford,  Clarendon  Preaa,  1886 : 
8vo.,  fi\  (xxv.)  cxxxviii.  and  620  j  (xxix.)  440,  [Presented  by  the  Secretarj^  of 
State  for  India.] 

Van  der  GhilB,  J.  A^-^Be  Ycatiging  van  bet  NederlandacbeGezagover  deBanda- 
Eilanden  (1599-1621).  TJitgegeyen  door  bet  Bataviaascb  Genootscbap  van 
Kunaten  en  Wetenscbflpp«n.  Batavia,  Albrecbt  &  Co. ;  *s  Hage,  M.  Nijboff, 
1886 :  large  8vo.,  pp.  iii.  and  18i,  map. 

Nederlandscb-Indificb  Plakaatboek,  1602-1811.     Derde  Deel.     1678-1709. 

Uitgegeven  door  bet  BataviaascK  Genootscbap  van  Kunsten  en  Wetenschappen 
met  medewerking  van  de  Nederlandscb-Indiscbe  Begering.  Batavia,  Lands- 
dmkkerij  ;  's  Hage,  M,  Nijboff,  1886 :  8vo.,  pp.  681. 

B  AFEIGA. 

[Cape  of  Good  HopeJ—The  Cape  of  Gootl  Hope  Civil  Service  List,  1887 :  con- 
mniog  tbe  Official  Hetorn  of  the  Civil  and  Military  Establisbmeots  of  the  Colony, 
Acts  and  Ecgulations,  Services  and  Duties  of  Officers,  etc.     Also  tbe  Civil  Service 
Calendar,  1887:   containing  all  matters  connected  with  tbe  Examinations  for 
entry  into  the  Service,  and  tbe  Civil  Service  Law  Examinations,     Edited   by 
Ernest  F.  Kilpin.    Caj>e  Town,  J.  C.  Jiita&  Co.,  1887:  Svo.,  pp.  xii.  and  27C, 
map.     [Presented  by  tbe  Colonial  Secretary,  Cape  of  Good  Hope.] 
Collton,  [CoL]  E.E. — Journal  d\m  voyage  du  Caire  ^  Kt'oeb,  Berenice  et  Berber, 
et  retour  yar  Ic  d^ert  de  Korosko.     [Bulletin  de  la  Soci^td  Kb^iviale  de  Gdo- 
grapbie,  11*  Serie,  Num^ro  0.]     Le  Caire,  Imp.  nationaio,  IS86:  Svo. 
Tbe  journey  was  made  in  1873-74. 
HorowitZi  Victor  J. — Marokko.    Das  Weeentlicbste   und  Tnteresfianteste  iiber 
Land  und  Lento.    Leipzig,  Friedricb,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp*  215.    Price  4ff<    {WiUiams 
(fc  Norgnte.) 

Tbis  is  a  useful  and  careful  siunmary  of  wbat  we  know  concerning  Morocco, 
by  a  member  of  tbe  German  Consulate  at  Tangier.  It  deals  witb  the  position 
and  dimensions  of  tke  country  ;  cbmate,  mountains^  rivers,  and  division  of  the 
land ;  products ;  inbabitants ;  mode  of  life  i  manners  and  customs ;  religion ; 
industry  and  trade  ;  government ;  history  j  most  imf tort  ant  towns.  In  a  few 
concludiuci;  considerations  tbe  autbor  maintains  that  tbe  wbole  of  tbe  nortb 
cuast  of  Africa  ought  to  be  occnpied  by  European  ixjwers. 

[Madagascar.]— The  Antananarivo  Annual  and  Madagascar  Magazine,  No,  i., 
Cbristmas  1886,  (Part  li.  of  vol.  iii.)  Edited  by  the  Rev,  J.  Sibree,  f.k.q.s.,  and 
Rev,  R,  Baron,  f.l,s.  Antananarivo,  L.M.S.  Press,  1886 :  8vo.,  pp.  i v.  and  128-260, 
[Presented  by  Mr.  Sibree.]    (TriihnerJ) 

Tbe  present  number  consists  largely  of  papers  on  Malagasy  folk-lore,  philo- 
logy, poetry,  S^c,  It,  bowever,  contains  a  translation  of  M.  Grandidier's  pai>er 
on  the  channels  and  lagooos  of  tbe  east  coast  of  Madagascar,  to  which  Mr. 
Sibree  odds  a  supplementary  not©  referring  to  Captain  Kooke'a  boat-jonmey 
along  these  lagoons  in  18(j4  (Proc.  R.G,S.,  December  1885).  Mr.  Sibree  states 
that  witb  a  comparatively  small  expenditure  a  continuous  and  commodious 
waterway  might  be  made  along  300  miles  of  coast,  connecting  the  principd 
ports  un  the  east  side  of  tbe  i&Iand,  and  giving  a  great  impetus  to  trade.  Less 
than  30  miles  of  canal  would  be  suflRcient  for  the  purpose.  More  than  fifty 
years  ago,  during  the  refgn  of  tbe  first  Radama,  this  great  work  was  actually 
commenced ;  but  the  death  of  that  sagacious  sovereign  put  an  end  to  the  work. 


NEW  GKJGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 


261 


[Kessedagliat  G.  B.l^Diario  Storico  Mi H tare  dellc  Ri volte  al  Sudan  dal  1878  in 
poi.  Alessandria,  V.  Penasaon^  1886 :  lai^e  8vo.»  pp.  63,  maps*  [Presented  by 
F.  BoDolii,  General  Secretary  to  the  'Societc  KliMivialc  de  Geographie,*] 

MoUer,  P.,  Pagels,  Q„  och  Gleerup,  E.— Tro  Ar  i  Kongo.  Stockholm, 
Korstedt.     [Presented  by  tbo  Publishers,] 

This  work  is  appearing  in  parts  of  80  pa^^es  eacb,  and  will  when  complete 
form  two  Tolumea.  It  desoribes  the  experiences  of  the  three  authors  during 
their  residence  on  the  Congo  as  employes  of  the  Free  State.  Two  parts  have 
appeared,  abundantly  illustrated* 

EoMfs^  Gerhard-— Quid  Novi  Ex  Africa  ?  CasseJ,  Fischer,  1886 :  8vo.,  pp,  li88. 
[Presented  by  tiio  Aiith<.>r.] 

This  volume,  without  content*  or  index,  oonsiste  of  a  number  of  detachad 
sketchy  papers  by  Dr.  Rnhlfa  on  a  great  variety  of  African  subjects,  such  au 
Towns  on  the  Red  Sea ;  the  Climate  of  the  Red  Sea  and  Abyssinia ;  Egypt ; 
Coffee;  Jews  in  Africa;  Is  there  any  TCJiBon  for  believing  that  the  town  popu- 
lations of  Morocco,  Algeria,  Tunis,  and  Tripoli  arc  of  a  special  character  ?  France, 
Algeria,  and  Tunis  j  the  Colonisation  of  East  Africa ;  the  Hygiene  and  Cli- 
matology of  East  Africa,  &c.  There  is  no  indication  that  these  papers  have 
already  appeared,  though  they  have  mostly  the  appearance  of  journalistic 
articles. 

ABIERIOA. 
Ball,  JohB,  F*Il,S, — Notes  of  a  Natural ist  in  South  America.    London,  Kegan 
Paul,  Trench,  &  Co.,  1887.     Price  Bs.  M.    [Presented  by  the  Aiilhor.] 

This  vahiaHe  and  interesting  work  contains  Iktr*  Bfill's  first  impressions  of 
South  America,  during  a  journey  which  occupied  the  five  months  from  March 
to  Aui^ust  1882.  He  went  direct  from  Southampton  to  Panama,  sailetl  down 
the  West  Coast,  through  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  up  the  coast  of  Brazil  as 
for  north  as  Pemambuco,  and  then  home. 

It  will  be  seen  that  this  embraces  a  glance  at  the  whole  or  South  America, 
except  the  Orinoco  region  treated  of  by  Humboldt,  and  the  Amazons  by  Bate.s. 
It  has  often  been  remarked  that  naturalists  are  the  best  writers  of  hcioks  of  travel, 
because  they  observe  more  accuratt^ly,  and  convey  iheir  own  impressions  mom 
graphically  than  other  travellers.  This  work  is  an  additional  proof  of  the 
troth  of  the  observation.  In  less  than  400  pages  it  conveys  a  clearer  idea  of 
South  America  than  the  untrained  traveller  could  give  if  he  wrote  a  score  of 
volumes »  This  then  is  the  book  for  the  general  re^ider.  But  the  general 
leader  believes,  with  Pope,  that  "  The  proper  studj'  of  mankind  is  man ;  '*  so 
when  he  readies  the  opening  chapter  (p.  11),  and  finds  the  author  say, 
"Next  to  the  vegetable  inhabitants,  1  was  interested  in  the  black  population 
of  the  island" — he  will  be  apt  to  stop  short,  fearing  he  will  hear  of  little  but 
botany.  But  this  fear  would  be  unfounded,  for  Mr.  Ball  is  better  than  his 
word.  All  that  is  technical  in  his  botanical  work  he  has  relegated  to  the  pages 
of  the  Journal  of  the  Linncean  Society.  The  botany  in  these  *'  Notes  '*  is  uf 
general  interest,  popular  in  style  and  interspersed  with  anecdotes.  It  is,  for 
mstance,  something  new  about  the  thistle  to  learn  that  it  now  covers  large 
tracts  of  country  in  Southern  Chili,  because  an  Englishman  (Query,  Scotch- 
jnan),  under  the  strange  delusion  that  it  would  be  useful  as  fodder,  irai>orted  a 
sack  of  the  seed  and  sowed  it  broadcast. 

On  another  i>age  we  read  that  a  Penivian  plant  called  the  tupa  is  alleged  by 
the  Indiana  to  i>roduce  temporary  blindness  if  the  eyes  hap|»en  to  be  touched 
after  handling  tne  leaves  of  the  plant.  A  local  liotanist,  Mr.  Nation,  pua'ly 
from  a  love  for  science,  verified  the  statement  by  cxfjeriment. 

When  Captain  (afterwards  Admiral)  Fitstroy  left  York,  Fuega,  and  Jemmy 
in  Tierra  del  Fuego,  in  1834,  Darwin  wrote  in  his  Journal  (p.  22C) — **  I  fear 
it  is  more  than  doubtful  whether  their  visit  will  have  been  of  any  use  to  them." 
This  sad  forecast  has  been  realised*  Mr.  Ball's  picture  of  the  drunkenness  and 
degradation  of  the  natives  in  the  Straits  of  l^IagcUan  makes  it  clear  that  they 
are  a  doomed  race,  nnlesa  spirits  be  removed  out  of  their  way. 
No.  IV.— AriuL  1887.]  "  u 


^a 


NEW  GKOGHArUlCAL  I'UBLICATIONS. 


It  is  jsluiiJiiiiit  txt  (urn  io  a  cuuiitry  whore  our  Jiiitlior  Jbtiiid  striking  cvidcnco* 
uf  progress  iiud  civilfsatiuu — the  Argentine  llejmblic,  for  which  he  has  invcutpd 
the  conijmct  imd  aijpropriatc  name,  Arij^eiitaria.  I'he  DKust  rcuiorkablii  fact  its 
tliu  enormous  stream  of  spontaneous  imiiri;L;^ra(h.m  fiowh];j;  iiihj  liic  countr}', 
chiefly  from  Italy.  In  1875  it  was,  as  ^imtd  by  Ur.  Ball,  47»50O.  In  1886  it 
hiul  increased  to  upwards  of  100,000  per  annum.  As  the  oxistmj;  i>opulation  h 
under  5,000,000,  this  repreaenta  a  larger  ratio  of  increase  by  imnji juration  than 
any  recorded  in  the  history  of  nfttions — except,  perluips,  in  the  California^  find 
Australian  rush  for  gold  ;  hence  the  rapid  proj^e-ss  f>f  Ar^a-ntaria  in  material 
wealth,  and  the  sudden  dcveloproent  of  iigriculture  in  a  country  which,  until 
recently,  was  pnrely  pastoral 

WeDding  his  way  northward,  our  traveller  then  cnterctl  that  paradise  of  the 
naturalist — ^Brayib  Judl^iog  by  bis  glowing  description  of  the  marvels  of  tropical 
nature,  which,  however,  do  not  go  one  hairbreadth  beyond  the  trtith,  it  is  clear 
that  if  Mr,  Hatl  bad  happened  to  reverse  the  order  of  hia  voyage,  and  taken 
the  Brazil  coast  first,  ho  would  have  spent  his  five  months  there,  and  the  rest 
of  the  *'  Notes  *'  would  have  been  unwritten.  The  world  would  have  been  so 
much  the  poorer;  but  now  that  we  have  secured  this  book,  let  us  boj^  that 
Mr.  Ball's  next  holiday  may  be  «pent  in  Brazil,  so  that  it  may  bo  followed  at 
no  distant  day  by  one  on  its  natural  wonders,  which  he  is  so  well  qualified  to 
appreciate  and  deacribe. 

Mr,  Ball^  throughout  the  volume  and  especially  iu  the  appendices,  has  eon- 
tribiited  much  that  is  of  ttie  bitiheBt  interest  to  the  scientific  geographer.  The 
first  appendiic  deals  with  the  fall  of  temperature  in  aBceiiding  to  heights  above 
sea-leveL  This  is  followed  by  another,  ol  special  interest,  in  which  he  discuasen 
some  ixainta  in  connection  with  Dr,  Croll's  theory  of  secular  changes  in  the 
i;artb*s  surface.  While  amply  recognising  the  high  value  of  Dr,  Croirs  work, 
Mr.  Ball  indicates  what  he  considers  as  one  or  two  weaknesses  in  the  line  of 
argument.  One  imjiortant  point  he  indicates  is  that  recent  observations  seem 
to  show  that  facts  do  not  justify  the  aasumption  that  the  average  tempemtitre 
of  the  fiouihern  hemisphere  is  lower  than  that  of  the  northern  ;  if  there  ia  any 
essential  diflerence  it  is  more  likely  to  be  the  other  way,  Mr*  Ball,  in  connection 
with  his  very  instructive  isothermal  map  in  the  volume^,  refers  to  the  effect 
of  the  so-called  "  Humboldt  current "  in  lowering  the  temperature  of  the  West 
Coast  of  South  America.  It  will,  no  doubt,  interest  him  to  rem!  what 
Mr.  Buchanan  says  with  reference  to  the  supposed  current  in  his  paper  in  the 
*  Proceedings  R.G.S,'  for  December  1886.— [C.  M.] 
[ Bolivia*] ^La  Bolivie  (Lettres  d'un  Voyageur  Suisse).  8vo. 
Giles,  Pearce.^Tlie  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  Buffalo,  N.Y,,  Matthews, 
Northrnp  &  Co.,  1887  :  8vo.,  pp.  48. 

Ihis  is  another  contribution  to  the  tiresome  contioversy  concerning  the 
8<3urce  of  the  Mississippi ;  it  is  written  on  behalf  of  Captain  Glazier's  claim. 
Uargrff  Pierre^— Mdmoircs  ct  DtKJuments  |>our  servir  h  I'Histoire  des  Origincs 
Franfaisea  des  Pays  Outrc-Mer.  D^convertes  et  fitablissements  des  Franeais 
dans  rOuest  et  dans  le  Sud  dc  rAm^riqno  Septentrionalo  (1G83-1724)*  Tome 
cinquieme.  Paris,  Maisonneuve  Freres  et  Ch.  Leclerq,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  clx*  and 
607.    Price  20«,     (Didau.) 

The  previous  volume  of  this  important  publication  was  noticed  in  the 
'Proceedings*  for  1882,  p,  122.  The  sub-title  of  the  new  volume  indicates 
the  nature  of  the  documents  which  it  contains—"  Premiere  Formation  d'unc 
Chaine  cle  Fostes  entre  le  Fleuve  St*  Laurent  et  le  Golfc  du  MeiiquCt 
(1683-17*.?4)."  M.  Margry'a  Introduction  shows  the  bearing  of  these  docu- 
ments, and  gives  the  history  of  the  period  to  which  the  documents  refer  so  far 
as  the  French  in  America  are  concerned.  The  first  part  contains  contemporary 
documents  referring  to  the  subject  indicated  by  the  sub-title.  Besides  this 
there  is  a  document  by  Lamotbe  Cadillac  on  Missilimakinak  (on  Lake  Huron) 
and  the  countries  beyond,  in  which  the  writer  adduces  a  crowd  of  curious 
reasons  for  believing  that  the  Hurons  were  descendflub?  of  the  Jews.  From 
the  same  writer  there  is  a  document  on  the  establishment  of  a  post  on  the 


^  NEW  GEOGRAriUCAL  PUBLICATIONS.  2Go 

strait  (Detroit)  between  Lakes  Huron  and  Erie.  In  the  socoDd  pirt  we  have 
various  letters  by  Juchercau  de  St.-Denys  on  the  communication  between 
Louisiana  and  Canada  by  the  affluents  of  the  Mississippi.  Part  3  contains 
many  oommunicationH  by  Lamothe  Cadillac  and  Le  Moyne  de  Bienville  on  the 
establishment  of*  the  Frcucti  on  the  coasts  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  by  the 
latter  and  De  Panger  on  the  establishment  of  New  Orleans  and  Balise,  the 
embouchure  and  the  passes  of  the  Mississippi. 

ARCTIC. 
[Jan  Hayen.] — Die  Internationale  Polarforschung,  1882-1883.  Die  ijsterreichische 
Polarstation  Jan  Mayen  ausgeriistet  durch  seine  Excellenz  Graf  Hanns  Wilczek 
geleitet  vom  K.  K.  Corvettcn  Capitiin  Emil  Edlen  von  Wohlgemuth.  Beobach- 
tungs-Ergebnisso  herausgegeben  von  der  Kaiseilichen  Akademie  der  Wissen- 
schaften.  II,  Band.  IL  Abtheilung.  [Wien]  Karl  Geruld's  Sohn :  4t<)., 
j*p.  175,  diagroma.     [Presented  by  the  Imperial  Academy  of  Sciences,  Vienna.] 

GENERAL. 
HomniBen,  Theodor* — The  Provinces  of  the  Roman  Empire  from  Ctesar  to  Dio- 
cletian.   Translated  with  the  Author's  sanction  and  additions  by  William  P. 
Dickson,  d.d.,  lud.      London,  Bentley  &  Son,  1886 :    two  vols.  8vo. ;  vol.  i. 
pp.  xvi.  and  367 ;  vol.  ii.  pp.  [iv.]  and  366.    Price  36«. 

These  two  volumes  are  a  continuation  of  Monmisen's  well-known  History  of 
Rome.  Apart  from  their  great  historical  value,  they  deal  so  largely  with  the 
geography  of  the  important  period  which  they  embrace,  that  they  will  be  con- 
sidered a  valuable  acquisition  by  the  student  of  ancient  geography.  The  ten 
maps  by  Dr.  Kiepert  add  much  to  the  geographical  value  of  the  volumes. 

BecloSy  Elisje.— The  Earth,  a  Descriptive  History  of  the  Phenomena  of  the  Life 
of  the  Globe.  Edited  by  Professor  A.  If.  Keane.  London,  Virtue  &  Co.,  1886 : 
imp.  8yo.,  pp.  xil.  and  500. 

_ ^    The  Ocean,  Atmosphere  and  Life.     A  Descriptive  History   of  the 

Fhenomena  of  the  Life  of  the  Globe.  Edited  by  Professor  A.  H.  Keane.  Loudon, 
Virtue  &  Co.,  1887:  imp.  8vo/,  pp,  xii.  and  500.  Price  21s.  each  volume. 
[Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 

As  there  is  no  preface  to  these  volumes  we  do  not  know  to  what  extent 
the  reprint  of  the  translation  of  M.  Reel  us'  well-known  works  has  been 
brought  up  to  date.  So  far  as  we  can  see  the  main  addition  to  the  volume  on 
the  Earth  is  Professor  Kcane's  Appendix  on  the  Progress  of  Recent  Geogra- 
phical Exploration,  which  is  referred  to  neither  in  contents  nor  index.  In  the 
next  reprint  some  of  the  Alpine  heights  and  names  should  be  more  carefully 
revised.  On  the  whole,  'The  Earth'  is  a  very  full  and  trustworthy,  as  well  as 
eloquently  written,  account  of  the  chief  facts  of  physical  geography  up  to  the 
date  of  M.  Reclus'  own  revision. 

To  *  The  Ocean '  Professor  Keane  has  been  able  to  do  much  more  than  to 
•  The  Earth.'  The  volume  bears  evidence  of  considerable  research  on  his 
]iart,and  many  of  the  results  of  recent  ocean  investigations  have  been  embodied. 
The  Ocean  occupies  only  the  first  section  of  the  volume ;  part  ii.  dealing  with 
the  Atmosphere  and  Meteorology,  and  part  iii.  with  Life.  The  two  volumes,  it 
will  be  seeo,  cover  a  wide  field,  and  are,  no  doubt,  intended  to  serve  as  an 
introduction  to  M.  Reclus' Universal  Geography.  The  illustrations  and  maps  are 
as  abundant  and  beautifully  executed  as  in  all  the  other  works  that  come 
from  M.  Reclus'  hands. 

[Scientific  Geography.]— Zeitschrift  fUr  Wissenschaftliche  Geographic,  .  .  . 
herausgegeben  von  J.  I.  Kettler  (Weimar).  Band  vi.  Heft  1.  Weimar, 
Geographisches  Institut,  1887. 

We  are  glad  to  welcome  the  revival  of  this  important  organ  of  scientific 
geography,  which  has  been  in  abeyance  for  some  time.    Dr.  Kettler's  colleagues 

u  2 


264 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 


are  Professors  H.  Fischer,  A,  Kirchlioff,  0.  Kriimmel,  J.  Rein,  S.  Huge,  M. 
Schunke,  and  F.  Wieser.  The  longest  article  in  tbis  number  is  Herr  Belter's 
paper  on  the  Antarctic  Question,  to  which  wo  have  referred  as  a  separate  publica- 
tion. Dr.  0»  Kriimmel  contributes  a  valuable  paper  on  surface  temjieratures  of 
the  ocean,  with  a  map.  In  a  note  on  the  Post  and  Telegraph  School  of  Berlin 
we  are  in  formed  that  in  the  higher  classes  geography  occupiea  an  important 
jflace,  and  judging  from  the  programme  of  aubjecUgi\'en  it  is  of  a  very  thorough 
character. 

Guillemaxdi  F.  H.  H- — The  Cruise  of  the  Marchem  to  Kamschatka  and  New 
rhiioea,  with  notices  of  Formosa,  Liu-Kiu,  and  various  Islands  of  the  Malay 
Archipelago.  By  F.  IL  H.  Guillemard,  M.A.,  M*i>.  (Cantab.),  &c.  2  vols.  8vo., 
maps,  and  numerous  woodcuts  and  coloured  illustrations.  Murray,  1886.  Price  42i, 

This  work  will  take  high  rank  as  a  book  of  travel.  The  cruise  of  Mr,  C. 
T.  Kettlenreir*?  yacht  Marchesa  id  the  eastern  Beaa,  of  which  it  is  a  narrative, 
occupied  the  months  from  January  1B81  to  April  1884,  nnd  appears  to  have 
been  planned  ivith  the  design  of  visiting  the  least-frequented  lands  of  that  part 
of  the  world,  and  studying  their  natural  history  and  the  physical  and  social 
l>eculiorities  of  the  native  races.  With  excellent  literary  tact  Dr.  Guillemard 
has  chosen  to  pass  lightly  over,  or  say  nothing  about,  places  and  countries 
which  have  come  within  the  range  of  the  globe-trotter  or  have  been  frequently 
l)efore  described.  Thus  we  are  f^iiared  an  accoiint  of  the  voyage  out  vili  Suez 
Canal,  of  Ceylon,  Singapore,  Java,  Hong  Koug,  and  Japan,  whilst  ample 
space  is  given  to  the  stranger  region  of  Kamscbatka,  the  eastern  side  of  Formosa, 
the  Sulu  archipelago.  North  Borneo,  Northern  Celebes, and  the  western  islands  and 
mainland  of  New  Guinea,  Many  of  tbe  smaller  islands,  nnvisited  by  former 
travellers,  and  erroneously  laid  down  on  the  best  modem  charts,  were  more  or 
less  carefully  explored,  so  that  tbe  craise,  to  that  extent,  baa  proved  to  lie  one 
of  geographical  discovery.  Though  teeming  with  valuable  scientific  informa- 
tion and  original  observation,  tbe  book  is  most  agreeable  reading,  any  tedium 
that  might  arise  from  the  sameness  of  incidents  which  will  sometimes  occur  in 
the  conscientiously  written  narrative  of  even  the  most  varitd  travel,  being 
relieve  J  by  happy  touches  of  humour  and  lucid  descriptions  of  scenery.  Tlio 
work  is  beautifully  illustrated,  and  tbe  jdeasure  and  profit  of  reading  It  are  not  a 
little  enhanced  by  an  abundance  of  siugle-page  maps ;  the  cx>nvenient  plan 
being  adopted  of  giving  a  general  map,  with  routes,  at  tbe  begin oii^  of  each 
main  section  of  the  region  travelled  over,  and  a  s|)ecial  map  on,  of  course,  a 
much  larger  scale,  for  the  separate  islands  or  excursions.  These  maps,  gootl 
and  useful  as  they  are,  might,  however,  easily  have  been  made  bett<.T,  for  in 
many  cases  places  mentionSl  in  the  text  am  omitted^  rendering  it  difficult  to 
follow  on  the  map  the  author's  narrative.— {H.  W*  BJ 


The  following  works  have  also  been  added  to  the  Library : — 

CUTZOEi  [Han.]  Bobert. — Visits  to  Monasteries  in  the  Levant.  Sixth  edition. 
With  illustrations.    London,  John  Murray,  1881 :  cr,  8vo.,  pp*  xx,  and  373. 

Barbler,  J.  V,— Essai  d'un  Lexique  geographique.  Paria,  Berger-Levrault  Sc  Co., 
1880;  8vo.,  pp.  115,  tables. 

Horse,  Edward  S. — Ancient  and  Modem  Methods  of  Arrow-Release,  [From  the 
Bulletin  of  the  Essex  Institute,  vol.  xvU.,  Oct.-Dec.,  1885.]  8vo.,  pp,  56, 
illustrationt^    [Presented  by  the  Feabody  Academy  of  Science,  Siilem,  Mass.] 


(    266    ) 

NEW  MAPS. 
CBy  J.  Coles,  Map  Curator,  r.g.s.) 
EUROPE. 
BayeriL — ^Topographischen  AUas  der  Eonigreich  -^^^  bearbeitet  im  topograph. 
Bureau  d.  K.  b.  Generalstabes.    Scale  1 :  50,000  or  1*4  inches  to  a  geographical 
mile.    Blatt  20,  Bamberg,  Ost— 39,  ADsbach,  Ost.— 40,  Schwabach,  Ost  and 
West— 60,  Dillingen,  West.    Price  Is.  M.  each  sheet    (JDulau,) 

Bayern. — Positions-Karte  vom  E5nigreich.  Bearbeitet  im  topograph.  Bureau  d.  E.  b. 
Gencralstabes.  1 :  25,000.  No.  543,  Landau.— 544,  Eichendorf.— 572,  Simbach.— 
573,  AmsdorC— 602,  Diepoltskirchen.— 603,  Schonau.— 629,  Neumarkt  a/B.— 
680,  Massing. — 631,  Eggenfelden. — 632,  Wurmannsquick.— 657,  Zangberg.— 658, 
Mdteling.    Mimchen.    Price  Is.  6</.  each  sheet    {Dulau,) 

Bontsehen  Seiches. — ^Earte  des  Herausgegeben  von  der  kartogr.  Abtei* 

long  der  KonigL  Preuss.  Landes-Aufnahme  1886.  Scale  1 :  100,000  or  1*S  geo- 
graphical miles  to  an  inch.  Sheets : — 41,  Wiek  auf  Riigen ;  90,  Zinnowitz ;  518, 
Tropplowitz ;  539,  Ewringen ;  573,  Earlsruhe ;  587,  Hagenau.  Price  Is.  6</.  each 
sheet    {Dtdau.) 

Helgoland- — PIaq  der  Insel  -^,  von  Fr.  Aeuckens.  Helgoland*  Prioa  2s. 
(J[hda%L) 

Italia.— Carta  del  R^no  d' ,  alia  scala  di  1 :  100,000  or  1  *  3  geographical  miles 

to  an  inch.  Istituto  geografico  militare,  Firenze.  Sheets : — ^27,  Mont  Bianco ;  28, 
Aosta;  41,  Gran  Paradise;  42,  Ivrea;  43,  Biella;  57,  Vercelli;  66,  Cesana 
Torioese;  67,  Pinerolo;  68,  Carmagnola;  69,  Asti ;  78,  Argentera ;  79,  Dronero ; 
80,  Ooneo;  81,  Ceva;  90,  Demonte;  91,  Boves;  92-93,  Abenga-Savona ;  102, 
San  Ramo ;  103,  Porto  Maurizio;  139,  Aquila  degli  Abruzd ;  140,  Teramo ;  141, 
Chieti«    Price  Is.  id.  each  sheet    (Jhdau,) 

Ihlfffiffth'PolCTl-"^^*"^^*"^^  yon  ,  und  den  angrenzenden  GouYemementSy 
YOQa.O'Giadj.    Eassel,  Fischer.    Price  Is.    {Dtdau.) 

ORDNANCE  BURYET  MAPS. 
PrtHrUfcww  iMoed  4nriag  tlie  month  of  Fe1»mry  IWt, 
l.inch— Cknaml  Maps  >— 

Vmciamd  asd  Walks:  New  Series.    Sheets  23S,  237  (oaUine),  290  Oiills),  1«.  esdi. 
SamAVo :  Sheeu  lao.  131  (oatUne),  is.  M.  esch. 

6-iiicll— Oovn^  ]Csps>— 

EMLAn>  Ajn>  Walks:  Badfbrdahire :  26  S.W.,  27  NJL.  is.  each.  Berkshire:  e,  2i.  sd. 
Brecknockahire :  34  ««'  '-  v  w.,  43  N,w.;  it.  €«dL  CanabiidireshlT© :  7  S.W., 
1S&&,  II  &W.,  15  N.W.,  it  .^.W.,  itf  iiK,  34  5J.K..  6t  K.fcL,  t%  N.W.,  SsW,,  &7  N.W^  aW., 
C3  K.E.;  U.  each.  Cardi^ansMre :  e  &W.,  li  aW,  i»  EM^  II  5).W.;  if,  *atb.  C»r- 
marthODflhire:  17  N.W.,  N.E.,  S.W,S.E^  i«  JI.W..  N.E. ;  u^icACh.  Devon^Mre :  ^0  ^y^., 
13S  N.W.,  N.K, S.W.,  134  N.W.;  ij;  e«li.  Dpraetahlre  i  H  X\W.,  la  s.W..  sk.,  it  S.W.. 
SJL\  is.  each.  Qlouoestershire :  4ft  aK^  T?  >\u\;  u.*.M£ii.  HjsrefordshiT« :  :!4  s.W.. 
31  H.W,38  K.W,  N.E^  A'l  N.W. ;  u,  eidt.  Himtmjtdcmaliire  :  n  S  E..  li  N.i:,j  u.  Mth. 
liSioestttrahire:  3S  SuW. ;  u.  I*kiodliiflliire  ;  li  N. v^ .,  N.E..  54  S  Jl,  S.w^  s^E^  T2  N.t;, 
fS8.W.,fSH.W.,X.E^S.n^  ^j;^  113  SLfc:.:  Ij.  e»di,  Merklnetliftllire :  3*  S;H,  :ii  N>1. 
SlR,  3>  SwEL;  Is.  each.  ICozunoutkBhirct :  29.  2j.  &j.  ;  %^.  is  Moiitgt^mezTBMre: 
3 XX,  7  H^  &E-,  11  ^.W.,  u  EiML,  ti.H,  ao  h\W..  VT  NX,  H,W.;  1*.  esch.  Norfolk: 
SI  N.W.;  Is.  OzfbrdsMre ;  3»^  u.  e<i.  K«btbiorsblT# :  34  aw^  37  N.W.;  u.  ^^^ii. 
Shropshire:  2«  N.W,  X Ji.,  so  S,W*;  l*.  «^.  8omerset«liire ;  *»  N,W^  XIL^  W  N.H, 
w  &lC  M  ji.W.;  u.  each.  StalEDrdshire :  70  &IS.;  is.  Soflblk:  72  aw.;  is.  War- 
wickshire: 15  K.£L,  20  &W,  22  M.W.;  is.  each.   Worcestershire:  3 SJL;  is. 

86-ineh— FuWillaBa:^  

Etclaa  axd  Walis:  Brecknockshire:  nXL  4,  ii.  is.  XXXIX.  8.  XLVL  2,  at.  cMdi. 
Cambridgeshire:  XXVLt.  XLL12,  UV.8.3«.Mch;  LVlll.  3.  &«.;  Lyill.4.  t.  3s.  each; 
LIX.i2.4s.;LJL3,3(.  Carmarthenshire:  XXXV.  11.3s.  Devonshire :  XLL 3. 7, t, 3s. 
each;  XIX  11«  4s.;  XLL  13.  14,  IS,  lAL  11,  CVIL  13,  CYUL  4.  CXIX.  1,  CXXXL  1,  2.  5,  3«.  CMfa; 
CXXXL  f,  4s;  CXXXL  10,  14,  CXXXIIL  S,  f.  10,  13.  3s.  CMfa;  CXXXIIL  14,  U,  Area  Books: 
BridtBenile  East,  Bridsenile  WcaC,  Is.  cMh;  Pprortby.  2s.  Qlonoestershire :  1.  14.  4s. 
Area  Books:  AtciiIds,  is.  6d. ;  Bonrton  00  the  Water,  Cherriastoo,  Chmth  looonb^  Gntt  Btaiiv- 


266 


NEW  MAPS. 


loll,  Hiin]wkkt%  lltLn^fii  It],  Vt>.  incli;  llMrhtcy.  ]t.  t:tl;  Ucuiuh.  Uutc  llUi*iu;:tuu,  1^.  t:.iJLt-ii;  Ktii- 
Ghiukuraptori,  U.  0</. ;  I'l-ljwortU,  tIcKtmai'ton,  S<jvDiilmiijptiiii,  Westcote,  Wyck  KLMingtuD*  1*.  e«di, 
Heref6rdflhlT« :  3L  12,  XVIL  8. 12,  XXI.  0,  u,  u,  ^IVIL  3,  XXXV.  6, 3i.  wich,  Lincolii- 
shire :  V.  it,  u. ;  V.  16»  lu,  VL  0,  XVJIl.  3.  m,  u,  ie»  XXXVI.  2. 3,  fi,  ft,  io»  XLV.  10,  Llll.  6, 
j«.  11.  LXIK  1,  ^jf.  eftch.    MontRomervBbire  :  VIU.  1,  2,  3.  4.  a,  6,  7, 9,  io»  11, 13.  H,  16.  itJ, 

xni.  11, 12,  xjv.  1.  s,  u.  xxm.  a,  xxxiV.  la,  le.  xxxv.  e,  xli.  3, 12, 15,  le,  31.  pjicii;  XLVii. 

4,  5f, ;  XLVIL  «♦  14,  a*,  each.  Norfolk:  1. 13,  3*.;  VL  I,  3,  U.  cvch;  VI,  4,  fl,  6,  7.  8,  10.  U.  3i. 
Mcb  :  VI.  V\.  4«.i  Vr.  14, 15,  16,  Vll.  1,  a,  5,  6,  3»,  eacli ;  X.  1,  4*,;  X.  2,  6,  6,  9,  3*.  i-acii;  X.  13,4*. ; 
X.  14,  3j. ;  XL  1  anJ  5  on  one  eibeet,  fiji. ;  XI.  6.  7,  P.  10,  ll,  5».;  XI.  12,  14*  15,  10,  XO.  9  a«*l  13  on 
«iuesli(>et,  a*.s  XVII,  lu,  4*.  Are*  Bookis:  AlderToitl,  Bri*ley,  Bcirlinjfbutn  St.  Peter,  H»>rnijifl;to(l, 
IJmppnl^nc,  Litcbium,  Ef?(?dLiuu,  SparljAm,  Swanlngton,  'TbelveUm,  Ti)arp«  Abboia,  TlbeBlimiu, 
Tlttleftbiill,  Tivet&bK^ll,  Wiwtoi.  WhbwnwLt,  WiiifjinlilnR ;  ix.  wch.  Northampton:  III.  i«, 
IX,  6,  XXXIX.  4,  a,  XLV.  2,  13,  3*.  ej*ch.  Area  Houkj:  Jiiltun.  Sulgruv^  VVliUtwi;  U.  each. 
Somersetshire:  LXIL  i,  s*,  j  LXIl.  4,  4*. ;  LXII,  6.  5*.;  LXII.  7,  4*,;  LXII.  ii,  12,  3t.  ea.  U  ; 
l.XJI.  1:1,  4ji,|  LXII.  1(5,  LXllI.  11, 12*  14.  3*.  eicb.  AreftBuolcj!:  Ikirrow  Guniev,  Cofnpiuu  IluinK 
Norton  Mftlrtward;  1*.  ejicb.  StaffonUhlre :  LXtL  13,  6t.  ed.;  LXVIJ.  1,  3<.  Suffolk: 
L3£XL  m.  LXX1X»  4,  8,  4f.  CAcb;  LXXIK,  1«.  3«.  Area  Books;  tombs,  Elmfleit,  Elmiwtll.  I^'ritu-n. 
Ore4i  AfthacitI,  HeiTin^eet>U*Trinfr«welLWGolnIt;  1«.  euch.  Warwickshire:  XXXIS.  Si.  Ki. 
XLIIL  1,  B,  7,  10,  13,  3*.  tadj;  XLIIL  H,  -*«.;  XLV.  2,3f.;  XLV,  fi.  4*.  1  LI.  1.  2,  6,  B^  1.1, 14,  LJl. 
10.  LIV.  16,  ai.  each.  Wiltshire:  XXVIH.  1,  2,  34.  each;  XXXIL  4.  4».;  XXXVL  !i  fi.  9. 
XXXVJII.  3,  10,  12,  16.  XL.  1,  3#.  each;  XL.  8,  14,  4*,  each;  XLI.  1.  2,  3#.  Pincb ;  XLL  4,  4r  ;  XLI. 
R,  7,  8,  10,  13,  15,  XLll  2,  «.  14,  XLVL  3,  4,  6,  8,  7,  H,  9,  10,  12, 13,  14,  Ifi,  LIIL  L5.«.'.  10,  IL  1<1.  '5^. 

nuch.    Woroeatershtre  :  XXllL  3.  4,  3ju  e^ich  ;  XXVIIL  11, 4*,  j  XXXVL  13.  XL  10.  XL^  ,  1. 

1 3,  3*.  PAcb.    Area  Buokj  1  Birtnawrton,  Gre*t  and  little  HainpUm  j  U,  eadi. 

Town  Plana — lO-feetwale: — 

KMfiiJkKD  AND  Wxlka:    AUTTetwItb,  VI.  Q,  s.  12  and  13,  14,  IS,  19,  12,  23,  24  {  VL13.  3,  4,  8;  2r. 
Bach.    Bradford-on-Avon.  XXXIL  14.  13,  U.  Ifl;  2*.  each.    Trowbridge.  XXXVIIL  7*  ft.  9, 10.  1  ». 

14.  IG,  1«,  19,  JO,  2J,  24,26  ;  XXX  VilL  8.  fi,  U  ;  XXX VIU.  11*  3,  4,  51  31.  «ftcb,  Wchi  Hmmwlcli, 
J  JtVlll.  14,  X  4p  lu  i  LXVUL  15*  1.  6 ;  2i.  each. 


(^Btayi/ord,  J[ietiL) 


ASIA* 


Asien*— "tJebersichts-Karto  der  etlmographijscljen  Terhaltnisse  von ,  und  voa 

(leu  angrenzeoden  Tlieikn  Euroim's.  Bearbeitet  auf  Grand  lage  von  Fr.  Mullefs 
AUgemeiner  Etlinographie  und  herausgegebon  mit  Uoterstiitzung  der  kaiseiiicken 
Akademie  der  Wi«seiischaften  in  Wien  von  Vinzenz  v.  HaardL  Aiisgefuhrt  im 
j/eograpliiiclieii  Institute  v.  Bd,  Hiilzel  in  Wien.  Scale  1:8,000,000  or  109".^* 
geographical  railea  to  an  inch.  Wien,  1887.  Im  Selbst-Verlnge  des  Verfassersi. 
Fiir  den  Buchbandcl  in  Commission  bei  Ed,  Holzel  in  Wieii,  6  sheets.  Price 
1/,105.     (Sianford.) 

Tills  impoftant  map  exhibits  the  distribution  of  the  varioun  races  of  men 
iDhabiting  the  oontineni  of  Asia  and  Western  Europe,  The  difficulty  which 
invariably  presents  itself  when  it  is  desired  to  illustrate  graphically  tlie 
details  of  any  large  subject^  in  consequence  of  the  number  ol'  shades  of  colour 
which  have  to  be  employed,  has  been  overcome  in  tho  present  instance  by  the 
judicious  system  adopted  by  the  author,  which  b  as  follows;— Each  different 
shade  represents  some  great  division  of  the  human  race,  the  subdivisions  uf 
which  are  indicated  by  numerals  placed  on  the  colours  used  for  the  w^hole  race. 
Ill  all  cases  where  the  same  tint  extends  over  any  krge  area  the  name  of  the 
jjcople  is  given  in  addition  to  the  colour.  Altogether  the  arrangtment  appears 
lo  be  good,  and  enables  any  one,  with  the  aid  of  the  very  clear  explanations 
t^iven  wilh  the  index,  to  see  what  special  race  of  men  inhabits  any  particular 
district  contained  within  the  limits  of  the  map.  Tlie  author  informs  us  in  the 
titie  that  this  map  is  based  on  Fr,  Muller  s  *  Allgemeiuer  Ethnographie,*  aLd 
great  credit  is  duo  to  Ilerr  Vinzenz  v.  Haardt  for  the  admirable  manner  in 
which  he  has  placed  before  the  student  the  information  contained  in  that  work. 
Tho  scale  is  sufiiciently  large  to  admit  of  a  fair  umoiint  of  detail  j  it  is  well 
executed,  and  cannot  fail  to  be  of  valuo  to  all  who  may  be  interested  in  ethno- 
!ogi«il  8 todies* 

Indian  Government  Surveys:— 

Indian  Atlas,  4  miles  to  an  inch.  Qunrter  Sheets :  32  N.W,  Parts  of  Bick- 
aneer  Native  State  (Kajputana  Agency).  3D  S.W,  Parts  of  Districts  AhmetU 
11  agar,  Kolaba,  Poona,  Satara,  and  of  Bhor  Native  State  (Bomkiy  Presidency). 
40  N.E.  Parts  of  Districts  Sholapur,  Kaladgi,  Satara,  Kolhapur  and  Poona 
(Bombay  Presidency),  and  Paranda  Circar  (Niauim's  Dominions).  07  K.E,  Parts 
of  Bareilly,  KumauD,  Tarai  and  rilibhit  (N,W.  Provinces),  and  Nepal  (Native 


NEW  MAPS.  267 

State). — India,  1883,  80  miles  io  an  inch.  2  sheets. — ^Trigonometrical  Branch, 
Survey  of  India.  EiLthidwar,  1  mile  to  an  inch.  Sheet  No.  6  (2nd  edition). 
Seasons  1863-64,  1867-68.  Parts  of  Gohelvdd  and  Ahmedahad.  No.  7  (2nd 
edition).  Seasons  1863-64-66-67  and  1867-68.  Part  of  Gohelvdd.  No.  12 
(2nd  edition).  Season  1868-9.  Part  of  Jhilivdd.  No.  15  (2nd  edition). 
Seasons  1866-67  and  1867-68.  Parts  of  Gohelv^  and  N.  Kathiawar.  No.  16 
(2nd  edition).  Seasons  1866-67  and  1868-69.  Parts  of  Kdthidwar,  Gohelvad, 
and  Undsarvaiya.  No.  26  (2nd  edition).  Seasons  1870-71.  Parts  of  Kdthidwdr, 
and  Gohelvdd.  N6.  27  (2nd  edition).  Seasons  1870-71.  Parts  of  Edthidwar 
and  Gohelvdd.  No.  28  (2nd  edition).  Seasons  1870-71.  Parte  of  Sorath, 
Kathidwdr,  Gohelvdd,  and  Bdbridvdd.  No.  32  (2nd  edition).  Seasons  1873-74. 
Parte  of  Halar  and  Machhu-Kdnta.  No.  33  (2nd  edition).  Seasons  1873-74. 
Parte  of  Hdldr,  Machhu-Ednta,  and  Jhdldvdd.  No.  43.  Seasons  1874-75.  Part 
of  Hdldr.  No.  52  (2nd  edition).  Season  1878-79.  Part  of  Hdldr.  No.  53  (2nd 
edition).  Seasons  1878-79.  Part  of  Hdldr. — ^Trigonometrical  Branch,  Survey  of 
India.  Sheet  No.  15  of  Gujardt  (2nd  edition).  Scale  1  inch  to  a  mile.  City 
of  Surat,  with  portions  of  ite  CoUectorate,  and  parts  of  the  Baroda  and  Sachin 
States.  Seasons  1876-77. — Gujardt  Survey,  1  mile  to  an  inch.  Seasons  1883-84 
and  1884-85.  Sheet  No.  184.  Parte  of  the  Baroda  State,  and  of  the  Rewa 
Eantha  Agency. — Oudh  Revenue  Survey,  1  mile  to  an  inch.  Seasons  1860  to  65. 
Sheete  No.  136.  Districte  Lucknow,  Unao,  Bae  Bareli,  and  Bara  BankL  No.  150. 
Districte  Barabanki,  Fyzahad,  Sultanpur,  and  Kae  Bareli.  No.  164.  Districts 
Sultenpur  and  Fyzabad. — Punjab  Survey,  1  inch  to  a  mile.  Seasons  1853  to  SG. 
Sheete  Nos.  147, 148, 149, 150,  170, 171, 172. 173, 175, 194, 195, 196, 197, 198, 
2ll,  212.  District  Montgomery.  Sheet  No.  251.  Districte  JuUundur  and 
Ludhiana,  and  Eapurthala  Stete.  Season  1884-85. — Bengal  Survey,  1  inch  to  a 
mile.  Seasons  1857  to  69.  Sheete  Nos.  295,  296,  316,  317,  318,  337.  District 
Jalpaiguri. — ^Mysore  Topographical  Survey,  1  inch  to  a  mile.  Season  1883-84. 
Sheete  Nos.  60  and  61.  Parte  of  Districte  Bangalore  and  Mysore.  District  Eoliat. 
1880-81-82-83.  Scale  4  miles  to  an  inch.— District  Lohardugga,  Chote  Na;;- 
poor,  4  miles  to  an  inch.  1874.  4  sheets.   {Stanfordy  Agent,) 

AUSTRALASIA, 

Qaeendand. — ^Map  of ,  illustrating  ite  Mineral  and  other  Productive  Capa- 
bilities. Scale  1 : 3,504,000  or  48  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Printed  and 
Published  at  the  Surveyor-Greneral's  Office,  Brisbane,  1886. 

Smnatra* — Kaart  van  het  Eiland en  den  Riouw-Archipel.    Scale  1 : 1,500,000 

or  20*4  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    Zamengesteld  door  W.  J.  Havenga 
voormalig  Chef  van  den  Topographischen  dienst  in  Nederlandsch-Indie,  1886. 
G.  Eolff  en  Co.,  Batovia ;  Institut  National  de  Gdographie,  Bruxelles.    (Dulau,) 
•  This  is  a  beautifully  executed  map,  on  which  the  topography  of  the  island 
of  Sumatra  is  very  clearly  shown,  and  all  details,  such  as  means  of  communica- 
tion by  land  and  sea,  are  laid  down.    The  towns  and  villages  are  distinguished, 
according  to  their  importence,  by  symbols,  and  the  boundaries  of  the  several 
R^idencies  are  given.      The  map  is  a  fine  specimen  of  cartography,  but  it 
would  have  been  better  if  the  coast-line  had  been  marked  in  a  more  decided 
manner. 

Tarawera  Volcano,  Hew  Zealand.— Plan  of  the  Seat  of  Eruption,  10th  June, 
1886.  Scale  80  chains  to  an  inch,  Surveyor-General's  Office,  Wellington,  188(J. 
{Jhdau.) 


208  ^^^^  KEW  MAPS. 

ATLASES, 

Bacon,  0-  W,,  F.E.G.S.— New  Completo  Atkaof  the  Worlds  containing  atl  Ihel 
latest  GeograpWcal  Disooveriea  tlironghout  the  various  Countries  of  tho  World,] 
with  General  Deccriptioo,  Alpliabetical  Index,  and  Gazetteer  of  1000  principal  | 
towns.    London  :  edited  and  publislied  by  George  Bacon,  f.b.o^s.    Price  2L  15«. 

This  Atlas  is  for  the  most  part  composed  of  the  maj^s  of  the  "  DispatcliJ 
Atlas/*  which  was  published  about  thirty  years  aga  Attccnpta  have  been  madal 
to  correct  these  and  bring  them  up  to  date,  but  an  experienced  eye  will  at  oncaj 
detect  many  errors  and  omissions.  The  most  accurate  portion  of  the  Atlas  i 
the  manner  in  which  the  railroada  have  been  bid  down,  but  even  in  this  respect  J 
there  are  serious  errors,  as  for  instanco  in  the  case  of  ranps  101  and  102,  on  onoT 
of  which  the  Northern  Pacific  Bail  way,  which  has  been  working  thniuj^jh  fori 
some  years,  is  said  to  be  a  proposed  line,  and  on  the  other  the  Canadian  P^icifiaj 
Raiiway  is  shown  aa  incomplete.  The  topography  is  very  poorly  shown  and" 
contains  numerous  mistakes,  some  of  the  geography  laid  down  being  that 
l^iven  in  the  original  mafjs,  eadii biting  tho  state  of  our  knowledge  thirty  years 
ago. 

BergliailS'    Physikaliacher   Atlaa  (begriindet  1836  von  Heinrlch  Berghaus),! 
75  Kartcn  in  sieben  Abteilungen,  en  thai  tend  mehrerc  hundert  Darstellungeal 
liber  Geologie,  Hydrographie,  Meteorologic,  Erdmagnetisraus,  Pflanzenverbrettung, ' 
Tiervcrbreitimg    nnd    Volkerknnde.      VoUstandig   neu    bearbeitet    nnd    untcr 
Mitwirknng  von  Dr.  Oscar  Drnde,  Dr.  Georg  Gerland,  Dr.  Julius  Hann,  Dr.  G,  i 
Hartlaubj  Dr,  W.  Marshall,  Dr.  Georg  Neumayer,  nnd  Dr.  Karl  v.  Zittel,  herau»-l 
gegcbeo  von  Professor  Dr.  Ocrmann  Berghans.   Achtc  Lieferung,    Inhalt:  Nr.  30, 
Isotbermen   von   Eurupa,       Nr,    -10,   Flurenkarto  von   Afrika  nnd   Auatralien. 
Nr.  57,  Amphibien  und  Fischc.    Qotha,  Justua  Perthea,  1887-    Price  3i.  each 
part.    (Bidau.) 

British  Empire. — The  Colonial  and  Indian  Atlas  of  the  .     W*  &  A.  K, 

Johnston,  Edinburgh  and  London,  1887.    Price  5s. 

This  atlas  consists  of  twenty-nine  shceti  of  mapa,  fiooe  of  which  ara  far 
superior  to  any  that  have  been  prtxiuccd  in  the  cheaper  claas  of  English  atlases,  of 
which  so  many  have  been  published  during  the  past  and  present  year.  The  eight 
maps  of  the  Indian  Empire  arc  specially  worthy  of  notice,  and  appear  to  have 
been  taken  from  the  Royal  Atlas.  The  maps  of  Canada  and  Australia  are  alao 
good,  evident  care  having  l>een  taken  to  use  the  beat  and  most  recent  materiala 
in  their  construction  ;  th*.^  Kimc  remark  applies  to  the  smaller  and  inset  mapA, 
Though  not  i>art  of  the  British  Empire,  the  wellH^xocuted  plan  of  the  SnezOinal 
which  is  given,  is  a  very  useful  addition  to  the  Indian  and  Colonial  maps  which 
this  class  of  atlas  usually  contain.  As  the  expense  of  mounting  full-page 
maps  on  guards  would  have  considerably  added  to  the  cost  of  production,  and 
consequently  have  raised  the  price,  a  system  of  dividing  the  nrnps  by  a  blank 
inargiii  in  the  centre  has  been  adopted,  by  which  m^ns  the  whole  of  the  map 
is  open  lo  view  instead  of  being  hidden  in  the  oentrCj  as  it  would  be  if  this 
precaution  had  not  been  taken* 

EDUCATIONAL. 
PalestiB€. — Pictorial  Map  of  Palestiue,  giving  a  birdVeye  view  of  the  Holy  Land, 
and  showing  the  jieculiar  features  of  tho  country,  Jordan  valley,  the  Ravines  and 
Towns.  Important  events  indicated  by  distinctive  marks.  By  Frances  H»  Wood, 
Size  68  inches  by  34  inches.  Mounted  on  linen  and  varnished,  with  roller  and 
Handbook,  Price  9«.  dd.  To  be  obtained ^  post  free,  from  tlie  author,  Beckenham, 
Kent. 

This  would  more  proj)erly  have  been  called  a  picttire  than  a  map.  It  is 
very  misleading  as  regards  vertical  scale,  and  though  it  might  convey  to  the 
mind  of  a  child  some  general  notion  of  the  positions  of  places*  of  interest,  it 
would  at  the  aame  time  give  very  false  ideas  aa  to  the  magnitude  of  the  area 
embraced,  and  suffacc  conditions  of  the  country.  It  may  also  be  remarked 
that  the  lettering  is  very  indistinct. 


■  ^  .  i  -*r 


PKOCEEDINGS 

OF  THE 

KOYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  RECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


Tlie  Alpine  Begions  of  Alaska. 
By  Lieut.  H.  W.  Seton-Karr. 

(Bead  at  the  Evening  Meeting,  March  14th,  1887.) 
Map,  p.  330. 

Alaska,  or  the  north-west  comer  of  North  America,  was  bonght  from 
Bnssia  by  the  United  States  twenty  years  ago.  It  is  bordered  on  the 
east  by  British  territory,  and  extends  from  55°  north  latitude  far  into 
the  Arctic  Zone  and  offers  one  of  the  best  regions  for  the  study  of  the 
formation,  movements,  and  extent  of  glaciers,  especially  that  part  of  it 
which  we  visited  and  explored  for  the  first  time. 

Having  left  England  lasit  April  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  these 
alpine  regions,  I  found  on  reaching  Victoria  another  expedition  bound 
for  the  same  spot,  namely.  Mount  Saint  Elias,  and  was  allowed  to  join  the 
party.  It  was  equipped  by  the  Neio  York  Times,  and  consisted  of  Lieut. 
F.  Schwatka  and  Professor  Libbey,  jun.,  of  Princeton  College,  N.Y. 

On  the  conclusion  of  this  expedition,  I  went  on  alone  to  the  north 
and  west,  instead  of  returning  by  the  United  States  man-of-war  which 
came  back  for  us  in  September;  and  I  found  that  the  glaciers  were 
quite  as  extensive  on  the  west  of  Mount  St.  Elias  as  they  are  on  the 
east  of  it,  while  one  of  immense  extent,  near  Cape  Suckling,  was  named 
the  Great  Bering  Glacier,  this  being  the  portion  of  America  which  that 
explorer  first  sighted. 

Having  now  returned  from  my  six  months'  exploration,  and  as  the  first 
traveller  in  the  footsteps  of  Cook  to  make  a  complete  circuit  of  this  coast 
from  St.  Elias  to  Prince  William  Sound  and  thence  to  the  westward,  my 
impressions  have  been,  that  the  St.  Elias  alpine  region  offers  one  of  the 
best  places  for  the  study  of  glacial  phenomena  under  the  most  powerful 
conditions.  The  air  is  warmed  and  charged  with  vapours  by  the  Pacific 
currents,  including  the  Kuro  Siwo  or  so-called  Japan  current.  It  is 
suddenly  confronted  by  a  vast  range  of  mountains  rising  directly  from 
the  ocean's  edge.     The  result  is  a  snowfall  unusually  heavy,  and  the 

No.  v.— I^Lly  1887.]  x  2 


THE  ALPINE  REGIOKS  OF  ALASKA. 


thickest  and  moat  extensive  glaciers  after  those  of  Greenland  or  the 
Arctic  regions. 

Along  the  whole  of  this  difficult  coast,  bordered  aa  it  is  by  a 
gigantic  wall  of  icy  mountains  facing  the  sea  and  rising  abruptly 
from  its  brink,  from  the  end  of  the  Inland  Passage  at  Cape  Spencer  as 
far  as  Prince  William  Sound,  there  are  only  two  spots  where  any  shelter 
exists  with  a  safe  landing-place  all  the  year  ronnrl^ — ^namely  Yakatat 
Tillage  and  Kaiak.  But  at  seYen  other  points  the  Indians  can  land 
during  the  fine  summer  months,  namely,  at  Lituja  Bay,  at  Dry  Bay,  at 
the  river  near  it,  at  the  head  of  Yakatat  Bay,  at  Icy  Bay,  at  Cape  Yagtag, 
and  at  a  reef  near  Icy  Cape, 

None  of  the  old  navigators  saw  the  true  character  of  tbo  flat  broad 
plains  which  border  this  coast.  To  the  east  of  Yakatat  Bay,  and  to  the 
east  of  Icy  Bay,  there  exist  small  areaa  of  flat  land  which  are  covered 
with  a  forest  of  spruce  and  cedar.  But  every  other  plain  or  flat  expanse 
conaists  of  ice,  and  is  covered  with  stones  and  moraines.  In  other  words, 
the  country  that  intervenes  between  the  range  of  the  St.  Elias  Alps 
and  the  sea  (from  Cross  Sound  to  the  Copper  river)  with  the  exceptions 
I  have  mentioned,  consists  entirely  and  exclusively  of  glaciers  and 
nothing  else.  The  terminal  moraines  of  these  glaciers  are  so  gigantic 
and  extensive  that  the  ice  itself  lies  huiied  under  millions  of  tons  and 
hundreds  of  iMjuare  miles  of  loose  rocks  and  atones  which  it  has  carried 
down  with  it  from  the  mountains  in  its  slow  and  gradual  advance. 
Large  aa  are  these  moraines  the  bare  ice  is  correspondingly  immense  in 
its  extent.  What  we  named  the  Great  Agassiz  Glacier  is  probably  about 
600  square  miles  in  extent,  and  ita  momines  between  one  and  two 
hundred  ;  and  what  wo  named  the  Great  Gnyot  Glacier,  on  the  west 
of  it,  is  of  quite  unknown  extent.  Where  it  projects  into  the  sea  the 
ice  cliff*e  are  300  feet  high.  This  forms  Icy  Ciipe.  We  saw  no  icebergs 
here,  probably  because  the  current  carries  to  the  westward  the  masses 
that  fall  off  into  the  sea. 

Vancouver  described  tho  coast  between  Yakatat  Bay  and  Icy  Bay  as 
"  a  barren  country  composed  of  loose  stones,**  No  one  could  have  guessed, 
without  landing,  that  all  these  loose  stones  were  the  moraines  of  the 
glaciers  which  lay  beneath  them.  But  when  we  landed  at  Icy  Bay  and 
inspected  ihe  so  called  barren  country,  it  was  seen  that  below  tho  stones 
and  rocks  there  lay  solid  ice  riinging  from  three  or  four  hundred  feet  in 
thickucsa  in  some  placca  to  six  or  seven  hundred  feet  in  other  places. 
These  moraines  or  accumulations  of  imbble  and  stones  upon  the  surface 
of  the  ice  at  Icy  Bay  change  and  move  with  the  ice  so  slowly,  that  parts 
are  covered  with  brush  and  thicket  of  great  density— so  dense  that  it 
cost  us  many  hours  of  labour  to  cross  a  mile  of  it. 

La  Ptirouse,  too,  like  all  the  navigators  who  have  sailed  along  this 
coast,  mistook  the  true  nature  of  what  he  saw.  Ho  thought  tho  ice, 
where  it  protruded  from  under  the  stones,  was  snow  lying  upon  the 


THE  ALPINE  REQIONS  OF  ALilSKA.  271 

ground.  He  wrote  that  *'  masses  of  snow  covered  a  barren  soil  unem- 
bellished  by  a  single  tree ;  this  plain,  black  as  if  burned  by  fire,  was 
totally  destitute  of  verdure." 

Forty  miles  W.N.W.  from  Cape  Phipps  lies  Capo  Sitkagi,  which  is 
the  Pointe  de  la  Boussole  of  La  P6rouse.  Vancouver's  Cape  Bion,  about 
15  miles  N.W.  by  W.  of  it,  is  the  Low  Cape  of  Tebenkoff. 

Icy  Bay  is  merely  a  shallow  crescent  in  the  coast-line,  though 
Tebenkoff  marks  12  and  15  fathoms,  and  5  fathoms  at  the  head  at  a 
point  on  the  chart  which  is  now  many  miles  from  the  sea,  and  consists 
of  the  gravelly  and  partially  dry  estuary  of  the  river. 

Mount  St  Elias  (according  to  Prof.  Davidson's  *  Coast  Pilot  of 
Alaska ')  lies  in  lat.  60°  22'  6",  and  long.  140°  54'.  Dall,  the  American 
surveyor,  makes  it  19,500  feet  high ;  the  Admiralty  chart,  14,975  feet ; 
the  Bussian  chart,  17,854  feet;  Grewink,  16,754  feet;  and  D*Agelet, 
12,672  feet.  It  is  thus  one  of  the  few  mountains  whose  height 
exceeds  the  first  estimations.  It  is  said  to  have  been  in  eruption  in 
1837  and  1847.  If  this  be  true,  the  eruption  could  hardly  have 
issued  from  the  summit,  which  is  a  sharp  rocky  peak,  but  rather 
finom  what  much  resembles  an  old  crater  on  its  south-east  base,  and 
which  the  maze  of  crevasses  on  the  glacier  prevented  our  approaching ; 
but  we  found  no  traces  of  volcanic  action.  In  the  Beport  of  the  U.S. 
Coast  Survey  Mr.  Ball  says,  **  After  a  thorough  search  I  have  been  able 
to  find  no  trustworthy  account  of  any  eruption."  St.  Elias  is,  I  believe, 
the  Bussian  patron  saint  of  thunder,  which,  strangely  enough,  is  very 
rarely  heard  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Mount  St.  Elias.  The  massiveness 
of  the  peak  made  it  appear  to  me  not  to  be  higher  than  15,000  feet. 
The  breadth  of  its  form  and  the  high  mountains  behind  it  have  perhaps 
been  the  cause  of  its  height  having  been  underestimated*  St.  Elias  has 
thus  undergone  promotion.  Mount  Hood,  in  Oregon,  has  suffered  from 
treatment  the  very  contrary,  because  it  stands  alone.  It  was  originally, 
by  a  *^  rough  "  estimate,  17,000  feet  high  (I  quote  from  an  article  in  The 
Tme$y  A  ^^ close"  estimate  made  it  16,000  feet.  Some  measurements 
by  angles  dropped  it  to  14,500  feet,  and  a  triangulation  to  13,000.  The 
first  aneroid  taken  up  was  said  to  have  made  it  12,000  feet,  and  after- 
wards a  mercurial  barometer  brought  it  out  11,225  feet;  so  that  if 
these  reducing  processes  go  on.  Mount  Hood  may,  in  the  words  of  a 
j^oneer  of  that  r^ion,  **  finally  become  a  hole  in  the  ground." 

The  scene  or  view  of  the  St.  Elias  range  from  Takatat  is  one  of  the 
most  wonderful  in  the  world.  Mount  St.  Elias,  hitherto  considered  the 
liigliaat  mountain  in  North  America,  stands  upon  the  ocean's  edge,  from 
which  it  rises  sheer  to  20,000  feet — a  mass  of  snow  and  ice  from  base  to 
summit — the  longest  snow-climb  in  the  world  short  of  the  Antarctic 
r^pons.  Its  summit  has  always  been  marked  in  modem  maps  (though  not 
in  that  of  Tebenkoff^  which  has  formed  the  basis  of  all  these  maps)  as 
exactly  on  the  141st  meridian,  which  is  the  boundary  line,  as  thou|^  two 


272 


THE  ALPINE  REGIONS  OF  ALASKA, 


jmtions  were  chary  of  claiming  a  summit  which  belongs  to  one  of  them  ; 
and  what  is  more  curious  still,  ae  exactly  10  leagues  from  the  nhore.  This 
was  the  extreme  limit  to  which  the  narrow  etrip  of  coast  called  South- 
east Alaska  could  extend  inland.  If  the  summit  of  the  watershed  came 
witliin  that  distance,  the  Ixiundary  was  to  follow  that.  If  the  shore-line 
has  been  correctly  charted,  I  found  that  the  summit  was  east  of  the 
meridian  of  longitude  just  mentioned.  It  was  also  more  than  ten 
leagues  from  the  shore-line  of  Icy  Bay.  Mount  St,  Elias  is  therefore  in 
the  British  Empire,  It  is  to  be  supposed,  as  a  San  Franciscan  officer 
remarked  to  me,  that  war  will  not  ensue  with  reference  to  this  question. 

Vancouver  (July  1704)  writes :  **  At  eight  in  the  evening,  Mount  St. 
Elias  bore  by  compass  N.  73^^  W.,  and  Mount  Fairweather,  N,  10''  K 
The  length  of  time  we  had  been  in  sight  of  these  very  remarkable  lofty 
monntains  afforded  ns  man}^  observations  for  ascertaining  their  situation, 
whence  the  former  appeared  to  be  in  latitude  60^  22i',  longitude 
219^  21'.  Until  past  eleven  at  night.  Mount  St,  Elias  was  yet  within  our 
visible  horizon,  appearing  like  a  lofty  mountain  ;  although  at  this  time 
it  was  at  a  distance  of  one  hondred  and  fifty  geographical  miles.'^  This 
IB  in  longitude  140°  39'  W.  from  Greenwich,  and  more  than  thirty 
miles  from  the  sea.  We  left  Sitka  on  July  lOtb,  in  the  U,S.  man-of*war 
P/tifa,  for  the  Indian  village  in  Yakatat  Bay.  We  reached  it  on  the 
12th.  There  is  a  small  landlocked  harbour  here ;  five  Indian  houses 
form  the  village.  After  waiting  here  for  four  days,  trying  to  hire  a 
large  canoe,  the  vessel  took  us  to  the  foot  of  St.  Elias.  Besides  two 
white  men  and  an  Indian  interpreter  we  had  hired  from  Sitka,  three 
Indians  were  brought  from  Yakatat,  making  a  total  of  nine  persons.         ■ 

Wo  were  landed  on  July  17th,  at  Icy  Bay,  But  not  without 
difficulty,  for  the  snrf  on  this  coast  is  heavy  and  constant.  On  the 
beach  were  an  immense  numl>er  of  bear  tracks ;  one  of  our  men,  who 
stayed  at  the  base  camp,  killed  three  of  these  animals,  while  we  saw 
another  in  the  very  heart  of  the  ioy  region.  A  number  of  immense 
torrents  reach  the  sea  all  along  this  coast.  There  are  at  least  three 
between  Point  Riou  and  Point  Sitkagi.  So  large  is  the  body  of  fresh 
water  brought  from  the  glaciers  by  these  torrents,  that  the  sea  is 
fresh  on  the  surface  and  fit  for  drinking  more  than  a  mile  from 
shore,  notwithstanding  the  constant  and  strong  current  which  sets  from 
the  eastward.  Bat  the  extent  of  the  glaciers,  whose  melting  produces 
all  this  fresh  water,  is  also  immense.  From  the  highest  point  attained 
in  our  ascent  of  St.  Elias,  nothing  could  be  seen  in  thedietatice  but  plains 
of  ice,  much  more  extensive  than  I  had  ever  seen  before.  The  largest  of 
these  rivers  issues  from  under  the  ice  which  has  bridged  it  over,  ov  buiied 
it,  just  at  the  meeting  of  the  Guyot  and  Agassis  Glaciers.  It  was  called 
the  Jones  river;  and  up  this  river  wo  had  to  mako  our  way  on  the 
19th  of  July.  This  river  spread  out  into  a  fan*like  delta,  the  apex  of 
which   was   near  what   looked   like  a  green  wooded  hill,  which   had 


I 


THE  ALPINE  REGIONS  OF  ALASKA.  278 

a  curiously  aneven  outline  like  the  teeth  of  a  saw.  Meanwhile,  we  woro 
almoet  constantly  wading  in  ice-cold  water,  and  some  quickHuiidH  had  to 
be  crossed,  than  which  there  is,  I  suppose,  no  sensation  more  unpleasant. 
It  seemed  as  though  an  elastic  crust  of  glacier  mud  were  floating  on  a 
liquid  mass  below,  and  might  break  and  let  one  in  at  any  moment. 
But  when  at  last  this  occurred  to  one  of  us,  he  sank,  Uj  our  n;lief, 
no  farther  that  his  middle,  saying  he  had  struck  bed-rock,  or  more 
probably  the  bed  of  the  stream.  About  five  in  the  afternoon  we  were 
near  enough  to  the  green  hill  (as  we  had  thought  it  to  be^  to  discorer 
that  it  was  nothing  more  nor  less  than  a  very  large  glacier,  which  we 
named,  as  I  have  said,  the  Agassiz  Glacier,  its  front  part  being  quite 
buried  under  enormous  quantities  of  moraine,  and  overgrown  with  birch 
and  willow.  Large  streams  welled  up  from  between  the  rocks  at  itJi  frx/t« 
one  of  which  we  named  the  Fee  Uiver.  This  huge  moraine  must  be  fnus 
of  the  most  extraordinary  in  the  world.  A  great  thickness  of  ice  lies 
buried  underneath  it.  It  is  now  advancing  faster  than  it  can  melt 
away,  for  the  forest  is  being  gradually  swept  down  before  it. 

After  waiting  for  two  days  in  order  to  bring  up  more  supplies,  we 
started  onee  more,  and  afier  penetrating  for  a  mile  through  the  thick 
bmahwood  on  the  moraine,  we  found  that  Tegetati/jn  ceased  alt/igether^ 
leaTing  nothing  but  hillocks  of  stones  heaped  together  cm  the  ice,  and 
more  or  leas  oompacted  by  a;^e. 

The  moniBes  of  the  Great  Agassiy  Glacier  were  mostly  composed  of 
gnnite,  and  those  of  the  Great  Gnyot  Glacier  <d  *Lae.  A  wid6  depression 
in  the  glacier  marks  their  line  of  pmctir/iL,  nnder  which«  nnmp^ai  and 
unheard,  &ws  the  great  r.ver. 

A%  dnik  we  were  OTorsght  to  a  standsiill  >>y  a  large  lake  fX0renA  with 
icabcrga,  wiu^  we  nam&l  after  the  Presi'iebt  of  the  Italian  Geo^p'Sk- 
phicni  Sociecy  tCasf mi/,  Bey-Ad  h  lay  a  nn^e  ^A  iJii^  whifii  we  suuned 
the  ClMix  HiHa,  after  the  veneiabLe  dwiia  profta^/r  of  girigrafphy^  At 
this  point,  one  ai  tfie  party  g»^ti&;^  knt  detaintd  im  if/r  two  days.  This 
wns  caap  r.mrJf^r  Hirt^  Prr>fs29tt.>r  Libcey  ikad  thoa;paa  tics  iar^e  lake 
conid  <»kT  Ift  pHsed  t,j  viz  be^in^  to  the  east.  I  f^jmiAanA  iith  weat 
b>  he  the  uaei  wisj.  We  botii  tiierifore  le^  ont  in  opf^ucte  dir>i^rt>.i«ji  t// 
Bnke  tpss^  Tut  ^z^/jba/^r^  as  I  bare  saiL  wm  lad^xmsjMkj  ^Ciseft.t  l>r 
two  ^Tft  witLom  btix^  a^«u&  v^  isiA  a  f  r^tkahie  r^ite.  ISnx  iai0saa:tM^. 
I  hnd  iioaii  a  wvy  '^c  ^>  tai*:  « Jlaix  fiilk.  TiJt  way  aj  aer^isa  a  ffkteh 
cc  finaiFr  wofi^  saxner.^ecilj  aKaaae  ac.  ittadvi,  Mt  wsift&  wimc  I  £/»t 
iiMBii  ii  was  ace  ao.  jt^iSksA  a:  a.  L  •>&  <»i&  tiie  i:  waa  'v«f:>t9i^  c^  t&^ 
ke-<afii  ^  lae  z^itdifs^  soaI  ^jSi^SLt^  Mouxr^a^^  u!iC w€f»L  ii  aiui  t^  C&asx 
fiui*  cic  a  ar:aii  ^iik^  :c  £::a.7-ii.  ^i£<e  ta^  itaoLp  Mi  c^  a  'jxn»  rrr^x.  or  liikie 
}flrt  «if  tje  ir.c^ ju.  '.^  liLft  jaict;.  "lixj!:  'w:^uiz%  \t  mzcjx.  ift^Au»ii  to  id(7^  mJk 
aescw  -aiicr  tiiauil  Iti-r^L  L«sa  -Ui*a  tw*tLt7-i-,n3  oi-^crs  la6*r  taos  n-Ter- 
3«ii — dsr  flbiiL  ri  wm — isni  «?T*E»ft  =.7  3',  i*^  ',*f  aii^ity  vai«sv  nwuji^r 
e  fC4!efL  ^jsMujli!^  wiszk  5:  aotfier]^  smi  cdmsl    A  kry; 


274 


THE  ALPINE  REGIONS  OF  ALASKA. 


cham  of  lakes  hai  been  dammed  up  and  had  Immt  loose  again.  Tlie  fires 
we  had  made  along  ita  banks  to  guide  the  lust  one  hack  to  camp  had 
set  the  email  forest  ablaze* 

The  ice  was  j^radually  advancing,  and  the  pin©  trees  were  in  process 
of  being  mowed  down  by  the  advancing  glacier  and  ground  up  into 
Kiere  heaps  of  matchwood.  Three  destmctive  agenciee  were  tbns  at 
work  at  the  same  time  within  a  yard  or  two  of  each  other — fire,  water, 
and  ice.  This  breaking  loose  of  the  river  accounted  for  the  marks  of 
sudden  risings  and  fallings  in  the  water-level  on  the  distant  flat-land  of 
ley  Bay,  whei-e  the  vast  mud-flats  were  always  damp^  as  if  from 
periodical  inundations. 

Our  Doxt  dny'a  march  took  us  right  to  the  base  of  Mount  St.  Elias,  up 
a  great  glacier  descending  from  the  face  of  tbe  moontainj  which  we  named 
the  Tyndall  Glacier.  The  mocdsains  of  our  lodians  were  now  for  the 
geoond  time  worn  out.  But  in  any  case  they  would  have  refused  from 
superstitious  fear  to  proceed  with  us  any  farther. 

At  half- past  four  next  morning,  we  left  our  fifth  and  last  camp 
for  the  final  ascent.  The  party  then  consisted  of  LieuL  Frederick 
Schwatka,  Joseph  Woods  (one  of  our  two  hired  men)  and  myself.  As 
the  only  one  with  any  alpine  experience,  I  tied  Mr,  Schwatka  in  the 
centre  of  the  rope,  and  Woods  and  myself  at  the  ends.  As  we 
jipproached  the  great  bend  and  ioe-fall  of  the  Tyndall  Glacier,  the 
crevasses  became  oovered  with  fresh  snow.  Mr,  Schwatka*s  great 
weight-=eighteen  stone — would  bave  made  it  very  difficult  for  us  had 
any  of  the  snow  bridges  over  the  crevasses  given  way,  and  as  it  drew  on 
towards  midday  these  became  quite  soft. 

We  were  now  aiming  for  one  of  the  bare  rocky  ridges  wliich  descend 
direct  from  the  upper  snow-fields.  We  soon  found  wo  were  wasting 
much  valuable  time  in  trjdng  to  thread  the  labyrinth  of  crevasses 
without  advancing  at  all  nearer  to  the  peak  itself,  which  now  was 
clouding  over.  Only  one  day  s  provisions  remained.  This  was  hardly 
enough  even  for  an  immediate  return.  We  now  felt  the  consequences 
of  our  delay  of  two  days  during  the  loss  of  Prof.  Libbey.  If  the  snow 
over  any  of  the  fissures  had  given  way  under  Mr.  Schwatka,  we  might 
have  had  very  gre^t  difficulty  in  raising  him  to  the  surface  again. 
With  a  couple  of  Swiss  guides,  and  a  whole  fortnight,  or  even  a  week, 
at  one's  disposal,  a  great  height  would  have  been  attained,  if  not  the 
oon(|Uest  of  the  actual  summit.  The  state  of  the  weather,  and  the  time 
thai  would  be  wasted  in  passing  the  icefall,  compelled  us  at  last 
to  attack  the  rocky  ridges  of  the  west  spur,  which  seemed  to  present  no 
difficulties  which  we  could  not  overcome.  Mr.  Schwatka  was  unable, 
through  illness,  to  ascend  beyond  a  certain  point,  but  I  continued  the 
ascent  up  a  steep  arete. 

At  a  height  of  6500  feet  I  could  see  the  country  to  the  north-west 
and  south-east.    It  consisted  entirely  of  plains  of  ice.    Above  the  height 


THE  ALPIXE  EEGK)5S  OF  ALASKJL  275 

of  6900  feet  I  was  in  the  donds,  and  tlierefere  saw  nothing.  It  was 
only  obrkyos  that  the  summit  of  the  ridge  was  reached  hy  the  fact  that 
the  ground  in  front  commeneed  to  fall  awav  to  the  westward. 

It  was  now  afaont  six  in  the  erening,  and  I  was  alrjne  upon  the 
summit  of  the  western  ridge  or  spur  of  Hoont  St.  Elias. 

As  shown  hy  aneroid,  the  altitode  was  14d0  feet  abore  where  I  had 
left  Mr.  Schwatka,  who  had  retained  one  of  the  two  large  mercurial 
Dtain  faaraneters.  Pnxfeasor  Libbej  was  meanwhile  making  simnl- 
(  oliservmtioiis  below  at  oar  fourth  camp,  with  the  secxmd  of  these 
large  instruments.  The  readings  were  afterwards  connected  with  those 
at  the  base  camp  at  lej  Baj,  and  gare  for  the  point  I  had  reached  a 
total  hei^t  of  7200  feet  abore  the  sea-lereL  To  tnrene  the  ridge 
itself  towards  the  main  peak  was  impracticable.  The  onljr  thing  thai 
remained  was  to  retrace  one's  steps  and  rejoin  the  other  two  who  were 
waiting  befew.  It  was  claimed  in  Xew  York  papers  that  this  was  the 
highft  dimb  above  the  snow-lerel  hitherto  recorded.  AimI  where  is  the 
fliow4evel  oo  Mount  St.  Eilas  t  If  the  snow-line  is  defined  as  the  Hani 
downwards  of  the  region  of  perpetnal  snow — in  other  wc«ds^  as  the 
he^t  abore  the  se^-lerd  below  which  all  the  snow  that  fells  ammally 
melts  dnring  snmmer — ^then  we  were  of  opimon  that  the  snow-line  on 
thesoathmdeof  St.  Elias  is  obIt  400  feet  abore  the  se»-leTeL  Itrsonlj 
€B  the  coast  that  there  exists  sach  a  hcarj  snowfelL  The  sMith-east 
winds  are  the  rain-winds^  Here  the  moistare  thej  bear  is 
and  precipitated  fer  the  first  tiaae.  Farther  inland  the  hsmiditj  ] 
be  less. 

It  woajd  pn>faaUT  be  below  iLt  mark  to  nimf  two  thriasind  fear 
handred  i^iiuOj  •jaare  miles  as  the  area  of  the  fiat  glacaezs  whidi  boaibl 
the  nnaar  between  Croas  Soand  and  the  CopfKr  rirer,  <  n  law  re  of  tha 
^Mwrfiflis  id  the  mage,  or  the  inland  giariffm. 

I  wvaid  dastzibate  this  area  as  kmkmm : — 7'»  iqaare  aulea  butatta 
Cross  Soasd  azhd  Yakatat,  7-»  theaee  to  St.  £uai»  aad  lOW  bttamm 
St.  £2ias  and  the  Copper  rrrer. 

At  maaigai  <m  tAe  »xk  Jahr  w^  tried  to  leare  1st  Baj  to  recarm 
to  Yakataz  xa  oar  wulfr-boat,  wxath  utlcakged  to  ik^  Pa^m^  Bat  the 
caif  was  too  hesTj.  aikd  we  were  awaaiped  at  mtdr^igrri.  The  daikataa 
cf  the  xigxit  asbd  tiie  €T.nhnaiTig  fridwai  of  Vbfc  water  <4f  Ifj  Baj  ^Mtfi 

The  feik^wz&g  engirt  or  mhrr  at  eariy  dawx  oii  ikjk  !«:  of  Aagaal, 
■  L  am  ■iiMiiaafil  jit Making  gar  vmruyt  firjm Ivj Baj, tMagii  at ihe  etat 
cf  ahsEndosiiig  Tuemt  <£  tiie  hsig^fe^  We  atsLi  xi«e  litcann  tmoL  fer 
tMse  -"'^t.fm  laser  ca.  Tic^  sarrmrnifiT  iii  tmtj^j^z  i^i'saoL  awax  in  mrrtfa 
^B-  — r'''"**f  vjoitt  weekft  ijr  iii!:  aaif  to  aalandp 

The  vjm  wiik&  laifl  uea  k£i  wixii  as  vr  tiie  U^  msai-<iif-«ac^  aias 
la  w^aj     isfiirT  tii&  'jms^  woA  itssmrj  fur  idxxe  subl  l>  C2a^  wigtm  JX 

WitttfiEX  aadae  dtttsj-  is  wxaud  ittve  hfc& 


276 


THE  ALPINE  REQIOKS  OF  ALASKA. 


impossible  to  procure  a  large  caucxj  from  the  Yakatat  Indiana^  and 
althoui^iL  we  waited  for  several  days  in  hope  of  doing  so,  the  result 
only  served  to  strengthen  the  impression  we  bad  formed  of  this  tribe, 
and  to  emphasisG  the  oft-repeated  advice,  that  a  sporting  or  exploring 
party  should  have  the  ability  to  render  themselvcB  independent  of 
their  assistance. 

It  should  be  mentioned  that  we  found  Icy  Baj^  a  shallow  iodentation 
in  the  coast-line,  quite  xm deserving  in  every  way  the  name  of  a  bay,  and 
with  nu  protection  even  in  the  mildest  weather  from  the  long  curling 
breakers  that  sweep  in  from  the  wide  racific.  It  was  almost  tho  only 
thing  which  the  natives  had  told  tho  truth  about ;  though  from  their 
evident  desire  to  exaggerate  eveiy  obstacle  we  had  not  i)laoed  much 
faith  in  their  representations. 

The  man-of-war  returned,  as  promised,  early  in  September.  Mean- 
while, a  Hmall  trading  schooner  had  called,  belonging  to  four  Swedes 
who  had  settled  on  Xaiak  Mand  for  the  purpose  of  hunting  sea-otters. 
There  are  many  places^  especially  near  the  Aleutian  Islands^  where 
Scandinavian  hunters  have  made  a  temporary  abmle.  They  form  the 
finest  race  of  settlers  that  can  anywhere  be  found. 

I  left  the  expedition  at  Yakatat,  and  on  the  9th  of  August,  I 
started  on  a  journey  to  the  north  and  west  in  this  small  schooner  U) 
Kaiak  Island,  and  from  thence  in  a  canoe  by  the  Copper  river  to  Prince 
AVilliam  ijound.  When  I  left  Yakatat  and  Bailed  westward  I  had  thought 
that  Icy  Cape  was  the  last  great  glacier  which  reached  the  sea  from  the 
8t,  Elias  Alps*  But  1  found  that  a  plain  of  ice  as  large  or  larger  than 
the  Agassiz  Glacier  exists  to  the  eastward  of  Cap©  Suckling,  which  I 
named  Great  Bering  Glacier- 
After  sta3'ing  with  these  hospitable  Swedes  on  Kaiak  Island,  I  went 
on  in  a  large  Cduoe,  accompanied  by  two  of  the  Swedes,  an  Indian 
medicine-man,  and  three  Indians^  to  reach  Cape  Martin,  the  east 
corner  of  the  great  estuary  or  delta  of  the  Copper  river*  Here,  just  as 
at  Yakatat,  is  an  Indian  village,  where  a  strong  spirit  is  distilled  from 
sugar.  The  whole  village  was  drunk,  and  tho  inhabitants  veiy  rude 
and  boisterous.  After  a  considerable  delay  we  sncoeeded  in  getting 
away  from  them.  Wo  next  beached  the  canoe  not  far  to  the  west- 
ward, and  dragged  it  over  the  sandbars  into  the  tidal  lagoons  of  tho 
Copper  river,  A  vaat  expanse  of  mud  was  found,  over  which  it  was 
easy  to  drag  the  canoe  with  small  fatigue.  When  the  tide  rose,  recourse 
waa  had  to  paddling. 

From  our  camp  on  the  23rd  of  August,  1880,  on  an  island  in  the 
centre  of  the  tidal  lagoons  of  the  Copper  river  estuary,  a  wide  panorama 
was  spread  out  before  us.  Northward  tho  eye  plunges  for  50  miles  into 
a  valley  from  which  tho  river  issues.  From  Capo  Martin,  the  south-east 
ptjint  of  the  delta,  to  the  spot  w^here  the  hills  on  each  side  first  com- 
mence to  close  togetlier — a  distance  of  20  or  25  miles — tliere  stretches  a 


THE  ALPINE  REGIONS  OF  ALASKA.  277 

low  dark  range,  from  3000  to  4000  feet  in  height,  on  which  I  counted 
eighteen  small  glaciers  on  the  summits  and  four  large  ones  in  the 
valleys  below.  This  line  of  mountains  is  broken  midway  by  a  gap 
eight  miles  wide,  which  allows  a  glimpse  of  an  extensive  snowy  range 
lying  behind  it.  The  highest  peak  seems  at  least  13,000  or  14,000  feet 
high,  with  six  others  not  quite  so  lofty. 

The  opposite  or  west  shore  of  the  delta  of  the  Copper  river  is  of 
much  more  remarkable  formation.  From  the  spot  where  the  valley 
opens  out,  as  far  as  the  middle  point  of  this  west  side,  the  mountains 
project  out  into  the  tidal  alluvial  plain.  On  this  part  I  counted  fifteen 
small  summit  glaciers  and  two  large  glaciers  in  the  valleys,  spreading 
out  after  the  manner  of  Alaskan  glaciers  in  the  shape  of  an  extended  fan 
to  the  level  of  the  river.  But  from  this  point  westward  to  Cape  Whitshed 
(25  miles)  the  shores  form  a  deep  wide  bay,  with  hills  thickly  timbered 
below  and  devoid  of  glaciers  above.  Here  are  placed  the  two  small 
Indian  villages  of  Oodiak  and  Alanuk.  But  though,  just  here,  there  is 
no  ice  on  the  summits,  there  are  three  large  valley  glaciers  descending 
from  a  group  of  snow-mountains  lying  behind ;  one  of  these  is  a  double 
glacier.  From  this  point  westward  the  mountains  are  not  so  high, 
until  Cook's  Inlet  ia  reached. 

Nuchuk  is  an  Indian  village  on  a  large  island  at  the  entrance  to  that 
wonderful  inlet.  Prince  William  Sound. 

We  reached  Nuchuk  on  the  26th  of  August.  A  white  trader  lives 
here.  It  was  one  of  the  old  Bussian  fur-trading  posts.  The  schooner 
was  expected  daily,  but  it  was  not  until  the  end  of  October  that  she 
arrived.  I  had  long  given  up  all  expectation  of  seeing  any  vessel  until 
the  spring,  and  was  preparing  for  a  winter's  journey  round  Prince 
William  Sound.  The  Sound  is  surrounded  by  moderately  high  moun- 
tains on  the  east  side;  few  reach  to  10,000  feet.  Those  of  the  Eenai 
Peninsula  are  lower  and  less  bold  in  shape.  Everywhere  the  north  sides 
are  bare.  The  south  sides  are  thickly  wooded  to  1000  feet  with  spruce 
and  alder. 

After  crossing  the  Sound  on  the  25th  October  to  the  Indian  village 
of  Chenega,  we  left  it  through  one  of  several  channels  which  exist 
between  Montague  Island  and  the  Kenai  Peninsula.  As  we  skirted  the 
Eenai  Peninsula  I  could  see  many  glaciers  reaching  the  sea.  The 
mountains  from  which  they  descend  seem  to  protect  Cook's  Inlet  from 
the  rain  which  is  so  prevalent  in  Prince  William  Sound. 

The  summer  in  Cook's  Inlet  is  one  long  spell  of  clear  warm  weather, 
and  it  has  earned  the  name  from  the  miners  who  have  visited  it  of 
*^  Summerland."  The  west  shore  of  Cook's  Inlet  is  mountainous  and 
wooded  up  to  a  height  of  1000  feet.  The  eastern  shore  is  flat.  Canoe 
travel  is  very  rapid  in  Cook's  Inlet  at  the  commencement  of  the  flood 
tide,  when  the  incoming  water  covers  the  sand,  which  apx)ears  to  vanish 
beneath  it  like  a  sinking  stone. 


278 


THE  ALPINE  REGIONS  OF  ALASKA. 


Mount  llyamna  (12,000  feet)  and  Burnt  Mountain  (11,200  feet)  are 
both  on  the  western  side  of  Guok  8  Inlet,  and  both  actLVG  volcanoefi. 
AugUBtin  Isiand*  close  by,  lb  ako  active,  and  broke  out  a  short  time  ago 
with  great  violence,  covering  the  aea  with  dust, 

Ivan  Petroff  who  made  a  census  of  most  of  the  Indian  tribes  in  1879, 
and  who  waa  sitting  by  my  side  during  the  fearful  mnrder,  at  our  supper 
table,  by  a  Kussian  madman,  of  the  general  agent  of  tho  Alaska  Com* 
mercial  Company,  is  the  only  person  who  has  set  foot  upon  the  aides  of 
Mount  Ilyamna,  The  fierce  brown  bears  of  Alaska  are  very  nn  merons  in 
these  volcanic  regions :  the  explanation  of  this  is  to  be  found  in  the 
fact  that  the  natives  w^ill  not  approach  any  of  the  volcanoes.  The  deer 
and  boar — the  latter  more  particularly — seek  these  "regions  instinc- 
tively, untrodden  by  man's  foot  as  they  are,  and  nntrodden  as  they  will 
ever  be  by  the  foot  of  any  Indian, 

John  Bremner,  a  miner  (whose  simple  diary  I  found  at  Nnchuk, 
recording  the  extraordinary  events  he  witnessed  among  the  Copper 
River  Indians,  and  his  life  for  seven  months  with  this  depraved  and 
dissolute  clan),  found  that  it  was  impossible  to  persuade  any  one  of  the 
tribe  to  approach  within  several  miles  of  Mount  Wrangel,  a  volcano 
which  rivals  St.  Elias  in  height-  He  however,  alone,  and  in  the  dead 
of  winter,  made  an  attempt  to  reach  its  orator,  when  one  of  his  snow- 
shoes  breaking,  he  was  compelled  to  return.  The  part  of  his  diary 
referring  to  this  daring  adventure  is  as  follows  (the  spelling  being 
corrected) : — **  Nov.  IGth,  1884.  I  made  the  attempt  to  get  to  the  volcano 
(Mt.  Wrangel)  and  failed.  I  got  within  about  one  mile  of  tho  crater 
when  one  of  my  8now*8hocs  broke,  and  I  came  very  near  passing  in  my 
checks.  Before  I  could  get  back  to  tho  timber  several  of  my  toes  froze, 
and  my  ears  jou  ought  to  see  them ;  they  would  match  a  government 
mulcts.  1  do  not  think  it  is  possible  to  make  the  ascent  in  the  winter,  but 
1  think  it  w^ould  be  easy  in  the  summer.  I  could  not  get  any  of  the 
natives  to  go  with  me.  They  are  afraid  to  go  anywhere  near  it*** 
Still  more  is  this  the  case  on  Unimak  Island,  where  in  addition  to  the 
feeling  of  reverence  and  horror  with  which  Mount  Shisaldin  inspires 
them,  the  superstitious  thoughts  which  the  story  of  the  Bussian 
massacre  has  left  in  their  minds,  is  an  additional  cause  of  fear,  and 
this  large  island  is  totally  uninhabited* 

I  add  another  extract  from  Lis  diary  i — 

"  Feb.  3rd,  a  beautiful  day,  not  a  cloud  in  the  sk}',  I  was  treated  to 
a  sight  to-day  that  1  wish  you  could  have  seen ;  the  Volcano  has  been 
very  quiet  a  good  while,  but  to-day  it  i^  sending  out  a  vast  column  of 
smoke  and  hurling  immeojse  stones  hundreds  of  feet  high  in  the  air; 
the  masses  it  is  throwing  up  must  be  very  large  to  be  seen  here,  at  least 
thirty  miles  in  an  air-line  distant  from  the  mouth  of  tho  crater;  it  has 
made  no  loud  reports,  only  a  sort  of  rumbling  noise. — Feb.  4lh,  a  little 
colder,  but  pleasant.     Tho  Yolcano  has  stopped  throwing  stones   or 


THE  ALPINE  REGIONS  OF  ALABKA.  279 

making  a  noise  but  is  still  sending  out  an  immense  clond  of  smoke. 
It  is  Teiy  beantifulf  not  a  breath  of  wind,  and  the  smoke  ascends  to  a 
great  height  in  an  immense  column  before  spreading  out.** 

Mount  PaTlov  is  another  Tolcano  near  the  ^end  of  the  Alaska 
Peninsula,  which  broke  out  into  eruption  last  August  with  great 
Tiolenoe,  and  destroyed  a  portion  of  itselfl  None  of  these  Tolcanoes 
have  been  examined  or  explored. 

The  admixture  of  Bussian  blood  seems  to  hare  prolonged  the  life 
of  the  Indian  races  in  Prince  William  Sound  and  Cook's  Inlet.  Tbejr 
seemed  a  far  finer  set  mentally  and  physically  than  the  Takatats,  who 
are  pure  Indians.  The  character  of  the  Yakatat  Indians  has  not 
Taried  much  since  Ismaelof  and  Belcharof  (1780)  gave  the  following 
description  of  them: — ''They  cut  their  beards  and  paint  their  faces 
with  stripes  of  Tarious  colours.  These  people  hare  neither  laws  nor 
religion.  They  worship,  howerer,  crows,  from  which  they  aflect  to  be 
descended.  Among  other  objects  of  barter,  the  natires  offered  two  boys 
about  twelve  years  old."  When  we  arrived,  the  Takatat  Tni^M^nd  had 
lately  been  tearing  up  their  blankets,  as  they  do  each  spring  after  a 
period  of  debauch. 

There  remains  in  the  alpine  regions  of  the  Xorth  Pacific  a  wide 
field  for  ezpUners.  Mounts  Crillon,  Fairweather,  and  La  Pfonise, 
reqwctively  15,900,  15,500,  and  11,300  feet  high,  are  not  quite  so 
striking  as  St.  Elias,  but  much  nearer  to  civilised  settlements.  Probably, 
it  would  be  easier  to  land  at  the  wonderful  inlet  of  Lituya  Bay,  than 
at  Icy  Bay,  and  it  would  certainly  be  easier  to  leave.  There  is  no  per* 
manent  Inidian  village  here,  but  the  natives  put  in  to  camp  sometimes. 

Lituya  Bay  is  d'  ae  to  Mount  Fairweather.  The  vessel  of  the  UJS. 
Coast  Surrey  entered  it  and  compared  it  to  the  Toaemite  Tali^  in 
Galifioniia  with  the  addition  of  ^adeiiL  La  Perouae  entered  it  and 
kat  a  boat  and  its  crew,  throngh  misfortune  and  ignorance,  on  the  tnr 
at  the  cntnnee.  Indians  can  land  at  Dry  Bay,  or  at  the  month  of  n 
nsHMleas  ixver  near  at  hand.  At  this  point  exists  the  only  paas  kaciwn 
orer  the  SC  Biaa  Alpa— known  to  the  Indiana,  and  known  to  tbeai 
akme.  and  tmv^enahle  only  in  winter. 

Dry  Bay,  froaa  Indian  report,  arast  be  nearly  as  intercnting  sa 
liaya  Bay.  It  ia  neady  certain  that  a  large  Ix«iian  vxlla^  exMte 
wi  ■liiiir  in  tke  neighbonrhood ;  and  by  taking  a  snull  light  csMis 
ha%«efxialdRnc&TakBtatbyBcnns  of  tke  ames  of  kgmw  behind 
thebene^ 

There  is  a  large  Uask  apaee  upon  tke  saap  of  AJadca,  lyia^  between 
Cck1:*s  Iiilit  aoid  tke  great  Yukon  rfver.  It  is  aa  nnknown  m  any  ^ 
t^  nnexpasand  reg>:mf  «n  tfte  ^-^^  Indian  report  aroa  iLat  lim 
\  of  vvy  lofiy  si^nxiaiasL  and  &at  rrreia  lead  io  limsm  ^ 


SL  mm  Hmm 


THE  ALPINE  REGIONS  OF  ALASKA,^DISCUSSION. 

ebould  l>e  in  tlio  party  experieneeJ  mountaineers,  and  it  should  land 
either  on  tho  west  Hitle  of  Yakatat  Bay,  or  at  Cape  Yagtag,  near  Icy 
Cape,  where  there  is  said  to  be  a  reef  which  affords  protection  against 
the  Burf.  It  Bhonld  .unraber  at  least  six  persons^  bo  as  to  l>e  iiidependent 
of  the  Indians^  or  at  least  not  wholly  dependent  on  them.     If  Yakatat  , 

Indians  are  hired,  as  many  of  them  as  poBsihle  should  bo  engaged  up  to 
ten ;  hut  if  Indians  are  brought  from  Chilcat  not  so  many  will  be 
required. 

The  main  object  should  be  to  he  able  to  camp  long  enough  on  the  | 

spot  to  ascertain  the  easiest  way  of  ascending  Mount  St.  Elias,  by  i| 

"packing"  with  this  object  enough  provisions  to  the  base  (three  days' 
travel)  to  last  fur  a  fortnight.  If  the  monotain  is  to  be  ascended  at  all, 
it  will  only  be  accomplished  by  experienced  alpinists. 

We  next  touched  at  Kodiak,  where  occurred  the  murder,  to  which  I 
have  alluded,  of  the  general  agent  of  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company. 
Wo  were  seated  in  a  small  room  after  dark  at  supper.  As  the  meal  was 
nearly  finished  a  shot  was  fired  at  us  from  the  outside  through  a  double 
glaea  window,  which  was  smashed  to  atoms,  filling  the  room  with 
smoke,  covering  the  table  with  fragments  of  broken  glass,  and  killing 
the  general  agent,  who  was  fitting  by  my  side,  besides  severely 
wounding  another  occupant  of  tbo  room.  An  insano  Russian  had  fired 
into  a  crowd  of  unsuspecting  men  with  a  charge  of  buckshot  I  He  had 
evidently  aimed  at  the  agent. 

The  schooner  remained  some  days  at  Kodiak,  and  then  sailed  for 
San  Francisco,  where  1  arrived  on  the  15th  of  November, 

The  following  diacusaioD  ensued : — 

Mr.  B,  PacsHFiELD  regretted  that  he  could  not  add  anytliiog  to  Lieut.  Seton- 
Karr's  narrative  from  peraoiml  kDo\vletlge  of  the  mountains  of  Alaska.  But  as 
tlio  paper  read  had  been  somewhat  hrief,  the  meetinj:  would  perhaps  alluw  him  to 
oflfer  some  genend  remarks  on  the  present  position  of  mountaineering  as  a  hranch 
of  geo;^phlcal  research.  He  would  then  take  in  detail  certain  points  raised  by 
Mr.  !ieton-Karr,  and  he  wouW  conclude  hy  quoting  soma  valuable  notices  of  the 
REime  region,  recently  published  in  America.  He  had  sometimes  been  tempted,  while 
listening  to  the  papers  read  at  the  Society's  meetings,  to  amnae  himself  by  inventing 
fancy  claaaifications  of  the  travellers  who  appeared  before  them.  A  learned  German 
supplieil  bim  with  the  first  classification.  Ilerr  Schwarz*  said  that  there  were 
two  great  classes  of  travellers,  those  w^bo  sought  for  lateral  progress  and  those  who 
strove  for  vertical  advance— the  ordinary  traveller  who  tried  to  get  m  far  ns  possible 
from  his  fellows,  and  was,  therefore,  something  of  a  misanthrope,  and  the  moun- 
tameer  whose  endeavour  was  to  get  a  little  nearer  to  the  angels,  anil  who  miirht  l>e 
called  a  philangehst  Another  authority  divided  travellers  into  seafarers,  landfarcrs, 
and  gnowfarers,  Such  a  division  might  serve  to  enforce  at  least  one  useful  lesson, 
that  the  craft  of  goin^  above  the  ffnow*level  was  as  distinct  a  craft  as  tliat  of  navi- 
gation, and  that  it  k  as  impossible  to  explore  efficiently  snow-mountains  without  it. 


*  *  ITeher  Fels  und  Firn ;  die  Bezwingung  der  miichtigsten  Hochgipfel  der  Enle  duich 
den  Menschen,*  &e.^  Leipzigt  1884. 


THE  ALPINE  REGIONS  OF  ALASKA.— DISCUSSION. 


281 


as  it  is  for  a  laodsman  to  explore  beyond  low-water  mark.     Some  people  found  it 
hard  to  uaderstjind  thi;! ;  and  great  nonsftase  was  frequently  talked  by  those  who 
librgat  Ihat  mountain  people  were  not  necessarily  mountaineers,  that  they  were 
[often  incapable  of  giving  tlie  gmallest  assistance  to  mountaineers,  and  that  their 
[testimony  as  to  the  practicability  of  ascents  was  worthless.     Before  the  days  of 
[DeSaussor©  no  Alpine  peasant  had  ascended  any  Alpine  a  now-mountain.     At  the 
^'preaent  time  it  waa  proper  to  call  attention  to  De  Saussure,  because  thifl  year  was 
something  more  than  a  jubilee,  it  was  the  centenary  of  the  ascent  of  Mont  Blanc 
by  the  illustrious  Genevese.     His  was  not  the  first  ascent  of  Mont  Blanc,  for  that 
mountain  had  been  climbed  the  year  before  by  Balmat  and  Dr.  Paccard,  but  it 
was  the  first  properly  recorded  ascent,  and^  therefore^  the  ascent  that  had  been  most 
Talnable  to,  and  was  best  remembered  by,  the  world.    Its  value  was  not,  however, 
immediately  manifesL  Two  fellow-citizens  of  De  Saussure — Rousscnu  and  Voltaire — 
«et  men's  brains  spinning  in  a  different  direction.     It  was  not  till  within  the  last 
thirty   years   that    De  Saussnre'a  travels    had  borne   full   fruit  in   the  thorough 
^  Bubjugation  of  the  Alps,     By  the  present  generation  the  exploration  of  the  Alps 
had  been  taken  in  hand  and  finiahed,  the  secrets  of  the  snow  had  been  explored, 
and  the  icy  wastes  had  been  turned  into  the  health-^ving  playground  of  Enrope. 
The  word  'MEaccensible'^  had  been  banished.      From  the  Maritime  Alps  to  the 
Gross  Glockner  not  a  single   pinnacle  rmised  its   head  unconquered.     Anjs^ustus 
raised  a  trophy  on  the  Maritime  Alps  above  Monaco  and  in&cribed  it — "  Dcvictis 
Alpinis    gentibus    a   mare  supero  ad  inferum  *' ;    now  a   monument    could    bo 
raised  to   De  Saussure,   **  Devictis   Al|jibii8."     He  did   not  desire  to  exa;];gerate 
the  part  of   mriuntaineenng    in    the  exploration  of  the    earth,    the    portion  of 
which  uniler  snow  was  comiiaratively  Kmall.    But  he  wished  to  show  that  moun- 
taineers had  been  well    empJoyed,   although  their   laboura  had  occupied  but  a 
small  space  in  the  'Proceedings'  of  the  Geographical  Society.      A  double  reason 
might  be  given  for  that.     First,  they  had  been  chiefly  engaged  in  completing  the 
task   before  them — exploring  the  Alps.      The   ice-craft  learnt  in  Europe  had  as 
yet    only  been   brought  to  bear  in  a  few   isolated  insUncea   on   more    distant 
ranges.      Secondly,    the    Geographical   Society   had    kept  its  eyes  fixed  beyond 
Europe,  and  had  excluded   from  its  sphere  EurO|x>an   travel   and   research.      In 
Germany  it  would  be  found  that  Payer's  Alpine  and  Arctic  papers  equally  found  a 
place  in  the  leading  geographical  magazine.*     When  he  first  frequented  the  Royal 
Geograplilail  Society  ho  was  astonished  to  find  that  they  had  not  the  maps  made  by 
his  friend  the  late  Mr.  Adams  Reilly  of  the  chain  of  Mont  Blanc  and  the  southern 
slopes  of  the  Pennine  Alps  in  their  Map-room  I     He  believed  that  the  Society's  pjold 
medals  had  been  given  for  much  less  hard  labour  and  geographical  research  and 
accurate  and  artistic  map-making  tlian  were  embodied  in  these  sheets.!     But  now 
the  Royal  Geogra]>liical  Society  and  the  Alpine  Club  were  about  to  be  forced  into 
connection,    Tiie  Club  had  done  its  work  in  Europe  and  would  have  to  turn  to  other 
plaoee.     The  maiden  peaks  of  New  Zealand,  the  Caucasus,  the  Himalaya,  and  the 
Andes  would  no  longer  be  the  objects  of  the  occasional  pursuit  of  a  few  chart^Tcd 
libertines;  they  would  be  constantly  run  after  by  a  crowd  of  admirers.     South 
America  had  already  found  its  De  Sauesure  in  Mr.  Whym|>cr,  whose  long-promised 
work  they  must  all  look  forward  to  with  great  interest.     He  was  sorry  that  he  could 
not  say  that  North  America  had  yet  found  a  De  Sanssure.     The  journeys  of  Mr, 
Solon-Karr  and  Lieutenant  Schwatka  must  rather  be  compared  to  the  travels  of 


•  Petermann's  *  GeographiBche  Mitteilungen/  Ergftnzungsheft  No.  17,  and  passim, 
t  Mr,  Adums  Reilly's  MS.  maps  are  now,  by  the  permif<8ion  of  the  Alpine  Club,  on 
view  for  a  short  timo  in  the  Mup-ixKJiu, 


283  THE  ALPINE  REGIONS  OF  ALASKA.^DISCUSSION. 

Pococke  and  WindhftTn,  the  two  adventarcms  toiirista  who  went  to  Chamonix  forty 
years  before  De  Sauaamne,  and  visited  the  Montenvers.     The  party  whose  adventures 
httfl  jimt  been  described  were  doomed  to  failure,  for  tlie  expedition  was  not  suffi- 
ciently provided  with  moimtaineera*     Lieut*  Seton-Karr^s  own  Alpine  experience 
was  limited^  and  lie  hud  with  him  a  companion  of  eighteen  atone;  and  to  attempt 
to  take  such  a  compftoion  up  a  mountain  19»000  feet  hig^h  was  a  Quixotic  enter- 
prise.    He  did  not  tbink  that  Lieut.  Seton-Ktirr  need  have  felt  any  anxiety  aa  to 
the  tronble  he  might  have  had  in  lifting  Lieut,  Schwatka  out  of  a  crevasae,     Alpine 
ropea  had   been  thoroughly  tested,  aad  none  of  the  ropea  in  use  would  besr  the 
shock  of  an  eighteen-stone  tnan  fallincr  suddenly.    To  come  now  to  some  of  the  point* 
m  the  paper,  he  would  first  refer  to  the  name  of  the  mountain — Mount  St,  EUaa, 
It  was  curious  to  find  in  such  a  region  the  name  of  St,  Elias,     Why  should  the 
prophet  Elijah  be  connected  with  that  great  mountain?     Wherever  the  Eastern 
forms  of  Christianity  prevailed,  the  prophet  Elijah  or  Elias  seemed  to  be  the  peculiar 
patron  of  moan  tain  pcskE,    If  they  looked  at  the  map  of  Greece  they  would  find 
his  name  and  chapel  on  the  top  of  many  mountains ;  and  on  Olympus,  instead  of  an 
altar  to  Zeus,  there  were  conventa  dedicated  to  St,  Elias.     In  the  Caucaans  the 
primitive  tribes  who  had  been  driven  into  the  hill-fastnesses  by  the  Circassians, 
were  said  to  believe  that  the  prophet  Elijah  frequently  appeared  on  the  highest 
mountains,  and  to  appease  him  with  milk,  butter,  and  beer,*     V^arious  explanations 
were  given  of  this  connection.  Some  people  thought  it  was  because  the  (rreek  Church 
attached  so  much  importance  to  Elias's  part  in  the  Transfiguration ;  others  said  that 
Elias  the  pmphet  had,  through  a  similarity  of  name,  succeeded  to  the  altars  of 
Itelios,  the  sun.f     Another  possible  explanation  might  be  found  in  a  survival  of 
the  belief  attributed  (2  Kings  ii.  16)  to  the  sons  of  the  prophets,  who  sent  out  a 
searcb  expedition  of  "fifty  strong  men'*'  to  look  for  Elijah,  because  they  thought, 
**  Peradventure  the  Spirit  of  the  I-*ord  hath  cast  him  upon  some  mountain,"     Of  all 
the  mountains  on  whicli  the  prophet's  name  had  since  been  cast  Mount  St.  Elias 
must  be  the  farthest  and  the  loftiest.      With  regard  to  the  height  of  St.  Elias, 
19,500  feet  might  now   be  fairly  taken  as  settled.     Mr.   Elliott,  in   his   recently 
published '  Arctic  Province,*  spoke  of  Mr.  Baker,  who  made  the  trian^lation,  as 
**one  of  the  most  accomplished  mathematicians  in   the  United  States  Survey," 
Another  accomplished  surveyor,  Lieut,  Allen,  had,  he  states!,  ascertained  that  Mount 
Wrangiel  rose  18,4C0feet  over  the  forks  of  the  Copper  river^  and  that  those  forks  were 
over  2000  feet  above  the  sea.    That  would  make  Mount  Wrangel  1000  feet  higher 
than  Mount  St,  Elias,  so  that  after  all  the  United  States  might  be  happy  in  possessing 
the  higheat  peak  of  the  North  American  continent.     He  need  hardly  say  to  any- 
body in  the  room  who  had  any  cxperieoee  in  mountaineering  that  he  utterly  dis- 
believed  in  the  ascent  of  Mount  Wrangel  by  the  miner,  quoted  by  Lieut.  Seton- 
Karr,     He  did  not  believe  that  he  got  anywhere  near  the  top  of  the  mountain,  or 
even  much  further  than  its  base.    That  a  solitary  man  should  ascend  nearly  to  the 
summit  of  a  peak  of  20,000  feet,  in  that  latitude,  in  winter,  was  absolutely  incre- 
dible.   With  regard  to  the  statement  in  the  paper  that  the  snow-level  on  the  seaward 
slope  of  Mount  St,  Elias  was  only  40O  ftet,  Mr,  Elliott  described  the  forests  of 
Prince  William  Sound,  a  little  farther  west,  as  rising  to  lODO  feet,  and  the  snow* 
level  as  between  3000  feet  and  4000  feet ;    and  another  explorer  had  collected 
liotanical  specimens  at  between  1000  and  3000  feet.     'IT^e  atcent  of  Mount  St. 
KMas   would  probably  prove   the  longest  snow  tramp  in    vertical  height  on  the 
earth's  surfiice.     But,  whatever  the  snow-level  might  be>  the  lieight  reached  by 


•  Klaproth,  *  Voyage  ftn  Caucase/  vol.  i.  eh,  13. 
t  Bent's '  Cyclttdea.* 


THE  ALPLNE  REGIONS  OF  ALASKA.—DISCUSSION.  283 

Lieat  SetoD-Karr  above  the  sea-levd  did  not  equal  that  of  the  sammits  of  Elbruz 
above  the  Caucasian  snow-level ;  and  the  pretensions  of  the  New  York  newspaper 
with  regard  to  this  ascent  mnst  therefore  be  dismissed.  He  wished  to  ask  Lieut. 
SetoD-Earr  if  there  was  any  chance  of  an  explorer  being  able  to  cross  the  Indian  pass 
from  Dry  Bay  and  get  round  by  the  lakes  north  of  Mount  St  Elias  to  the  forks  of 
the  Copper  river  near  Mount  Wningel  ?  Such  a  tour,  combined  with  the  ascents  of 
Mount  St.  Elias  and  Mount  Wrangel,  would  probably  be  the  most  interesting 
mountain  excursion  possible  in  North  America.  He  regretted  very  much  that, 
owing  to  the  non-anival  of  the  photographs  that  Lieut  Seton-Earr  expected,  he 
had  been  unable  to  illustrate  his  paper  with  the  lantern.  He  hoped  that  mountain 
travellers  in  future  would  take  photographic  machines  with  them  and  make  good  use 
of  them.  It  was  a  very  easy  thing  to  do.  He  had  himself  carried  Mr.  Donkin's 
camera  nearly  up  Mont  Blanc,  and  every  one  knew  what  superb  plates  Mr.  Donkin 
produced.  With  regard  to  the  accessibility  of  the  region  described  in  the  paper,  he 
had  recently  received  an  illustrated  pamphlet,  published  by  the  Northern  Pacific 
Bailroad,  and  written  by  Lieut  Schwatka.*  It  contained  a  promising  account  of 
the  facilities  soon  to  be  afforded  to  travellers.  It  was  in  contemplation  to  build  an 
hotel  at  Glacier  Bay,  close  to  Mounts  Crillon  and  Fairweather,  and  to  run  excursion 
steamers  from  Sitka  to  Icy  Bay.  When  travellers  frequented  these  coasts  the 
weather  promised  to  be  as  great  a  topic  of  conversation  on  Alaskan  steamers  as  it  was 
at  Swiss  Uble  d*h6tes.  The  rainfall  at  Sitka  was  85  inches,  but  there  were  said  to  be 
100  fine  days  in  the  year.  At  Gbicier  Bay,  Mr.  Wright,  in  August,  out  of  29  days, 
had  14,  or  nearly  half,  **  beautiful  beyond  description."  The  witnesses  were  very 
contradictory,  for  another  officer  described  the  weather  ss  "  boisterous  winds  chronic, 
and  howling  gales  frequent."  Mr.  Seward,  on  the  contrary,  thought  the  climate  was 
infinitely  superior  to  that  of  Northern  Germany ;  but  he  was  a  politician,  and  not  a 
disinterested  one  (for  he  had  had  a  share  in  the  purchase  of  Alaska),  and  therefore 
was  politically  biassed,  and  could  hardly  be  expected  to  tell  the  truth.  In  conclusion, 
he  woold  give  very  briefly  the  main  facts  contained  in  an  important  note  which  had 
been  published  in  the  'American  Journal  of  Science'  (January  1887)  by  Mr. 
Wright,  who  made  some  prolonged  observations  at  the  head  of  Glacier  Bay,  on  a 
Urge  glacier  called  the  Muir  Glacier.  It  was  found  that  that  glacier  occupied  a  vast 
smphitheatre,  with  a  diameter  ranging  from  30  to  40  miles,  with  nine  main  and 
seventeen  smaller  branches.  The  main  trunk  was  two  miles  wide.  It  entered  the 
uoean  with  a  sea-front  of  a  mile,  rising  in  cliffs  300  feet  in  height  Bergs  containing 
40,000,000  cubic  feet  broke  off  from  it  From  measurements  taken  with  care  at 
the  eiid  of  summer,  the  period  of  greatest  motion,  the  vdocity  of  the  ice  was 
ascertained — and  this  was  a  fact  well  worthy  of  attention — as  70  feet  a  day  in  the 
centre,  and  10  feet  in  the  margin  of  movement !  Now,  1}  foot  a  day  was  aboat 
the  motion  of  the  Mer-de-Glaoe,  and  55  feet  in  the  year  that  of  the  Aar  Gladen. 
The  only  observatioos  at  all  comparable  in  their  results  with  those  of  the  Moir 
Glacier  were  tbon  of  the  Jakobshavn  Glacier  in  Greenland,  where  the  motion 
was  said  to  be  3f  miles  a  year.f  De^te  this  rapid  motion,  Mr.  Wright  stated  that 
a  period  of  glacier  decrease  was  going  on  in  Alaska,  corresponding  to  that  in  the  Alps 
and  in  the  Caocasos,  apparoitly  just  terminated.  A  still  more  remarkable  (act  was 
ascertained  in  the  discovery  of  a  forest  boried  in  sand,  from  which  the  ioe  had  recently 
letieated.  Mr.  Wright  showed  that  the  sand  had  been  deposited  by  streams  dammed 
by  a  side  glacier  during  a  long  previous  period  of  advance  of  the  ice.    The  ioe  had 


*  *  Wooderland,  or  Alaska  and  the  Inland  PSsMge,'  by  Lieot  Sehwaika. 
t  See '  Alpine  JoumsL'  voL  xiL  pp.  229-30,  for  a  summary  of  the  most  reeent  state- 
ments and  eoDdasioiis  as  to  gkricr  bmHioq. 

No.  v.— Hat  1887.]  y 


284 


TOE  ALPIXE  REGIONS  OF  ALASKA.— DISCUSSION. 


tlien  passeJ  over  tbe  saud  without  diBturbio^  it»  In  this  instance  the  ice  had  heen 
partiftlly  supported  by  a  spur  of  rock,  and  therefore  its  whole  weight  had  not  pressed 
t>n  the  sand*  But  Mr.  Wrii»ht  went  on  to  say  tlmt  **  the  caimcity  of  the  ice  to  move 
without  disturbing  them  over  such  gravel  depoisits  as  cover  the  forests,  is  seen  in  the 
present  condition  of  the  south-west  corner  of  the  glacier  itself.  As  the  ice-front 
has  retreated  along  that  shore,  large  masses  of  ice  are  still  to  be  seen  Inpping 
over  upon  the  grave!.  These  are  portions  of  the  glacier  still  sustained  in  place  by 
the  underlying  grave!.*'  This^  of  course,  was  ira^xirtant  evidence  wnth  regard  to  the 
boring  faculty  of  glaciers.  It  seemed  aa  if  it  would  prove  a  confirmation  of  much 
that  was  written  m  Mr.  Whymper's  Alpine  volume.  He  (Mr  Fresh  field)  had  never 
been  disposed  to  believe  in  the  enormous  powers  attributed  to  glaciers  as  bores.  Tbey 
scraped  and  polished  to  a  great  extent,  but  he  did  not  think  that  they  dug  deeply. 
They  were  not  so  much  the  sculptor's  workman  as  the  sculptor  himself.  Their  share 
in  hill  structure  was  to  give  it  artistic  merit;  to  round  a  corner  and  polish  a  boss. 
Thoise  who  were  interested  in  glaciers  should  not  fail  tt)  study  a  very  beautifully 
llustrated  official  report,  published  at  Washington,*  on  all  tbe  glaciers  in  the 
United  States,  excluding  those  of  Alaska*  The  conclusion  that  Englishmen  would 
arrive  at  would  be  that  the  glaciers  of  the  rest  of  North-west  America  were  a  very 
poor  lot — -hardly  worth  looking  at  from  the  picturesque  point  of  view,  and  scarcely 
equal  to  those  of  the  Pyrenees.  Another  result  would  be  to  make  Englishmen  envy 
tbe  Americana  the  amount  of  money  which  their  government  could  afford  to  devote 
to  tbe  illustration  and  publication  of  scientific  reix>rts.  lie  congratulated  Lieut. 
Seton-Karr  on  the  success  that  ho  had  obtained  in  approaching  the  mountain  and 
visitinjT  the  more  remote  parts  of  the  Alaskan  coast.  Those  who  went  first,  and 
opened  the  w^ay,  were  not  less  entitled  to  credit  than  those  who  came  afterwards,  and 
reaped  the  fruit  of  their  predecessors*  labours. 

Mr.  Clikton  DnxT  (l^resident  of  the  Alpine  Club)  said  he  had  been  very  much 
interested  in  the  paper,  for  it  dealt  at  once  with  mountain  and  geographical  explora- 
tion.     He  could   fully  endorse   what   Mr.    Freshfield  bad  said,  that,  to  attack  a 
mountain  19^500  feet  high,  with  the  very  remotest  pmsj^ect,  not  of  success,  but  of 
attaining  any  height  whatever,  the  expedition  must  be  specially  equipped.     There 
must  he  no  one  in  the  party  who  was  not  a  mountaineer.     With  regard  to  trusting 
to  the  natives,  experience  in  Alaska  would  prove  to  be  the  same  as  in  the  Andes,  as 
originally  it  was  in  the  Aif«,  and  as  he  had  the  opportunity  last  summer  of  finding 
it  was  in  the  Caucasus.     Until  the  natives  were  educated  to  liecome  mountaineers 
they  would  never  be  of  the  least  use.     The  Swiss  peasants  had,  however,  been 
educated  until  tbey  had  become  instructors  of  those  who  educated  them.    Among 
the  natives  in  mountainous  countries  there  was  always  at  first  an  amount  of  super* 
Eitition,  and  which  resulted  in  a  dread  and  abhorrence  of  attacking  the  higher  peaks. 
It  followed  that  to  attain  any  success,  even  apart   from   reaching  the  aummit  of 
such  a  formidable  mountain  as  Mount  St.  Elins,  the  explorer  must  be  provided  with 
those  who  could  act  the  part  of  porters,  and  who  were  thoroughly  reliable.     From 
the  description  that  had  been  triven  of  the  mountain,  he  fancied   that  the  ascent 
must  be  one  of  a  most  forraidablo  nature  from  its  great  length,  and  be  considered 
that  the  route  which  bad  so  far  been  followed  was  hardly  likely  to jirove  the  right  one. 
It  appeared  to  him  to  be  a  very  long  way  round,  affording  no  opportunity  for  bivouack- 
ing suPuciently  high.     From  the  last  camp  the  party  seemed  to  have  started  with  an 
idea  that  tbey  could  go  up  a  height  of  something  like  15,000  feet  in  a  day,  hut  in 
such  cases  600O  feet  was  an  exceedingly  sood  day'«  work.     With  Mr.  Freshfield, 
he  congratulate<i  Lieut.  Seton-Karr  on  having  broken  new  ground,  and  ^n  Laviug 


I 


*  Report  of  the  GeoloijicftI  Survey/  1883-4. 


BETWEEN  THE  NILE  AND  THE  CONGO, 


285 


thown  that  in  Alaska  there  were  glaciers  and  moimtaiDS  of  the  Iiigk^t  ioterest  to 
every  one  coonected,  not  only  with  geography,  but  also  with  the  sister  science,  wbick 
be  hoped  geography  would  adopt »  oro;:^raphy, 

Lieut.  Seton-Karr  said  the  Indians  had  a  pass  from  Cbilcat  to  the  north  of  St. 
Eh'as  to  ilocnt  Wrangel  down  the  Cluchitka  river.  The  Copper  river  had  been 
ascended  by  Lieutenant  Allen  in  1884.  Tbe  Indians,  however,  only  crossed  the  i>a3S 
in  winter  when  the  streams  were  frozen,  but  it  might  perhaps  be  done  in  eummer. 
The  snow-level  depended  on  the  stiow-fall,  and  the  conditions  of  St,  Ellas  were  «nch 
that  the  snow-fall  was  very  heavy.  Damp  winds  came  up  from  the  Pacific,  and  were 
coriJensed  on  the  snow  mountains  which  were  immediately  at  the  ocean's  brink  ; 
the  result  Tvas  a  very  heavy  snow-fall,  greater  tbau  in  any  other  pai  t  of  Alaska. 
There  was^  therefore,  more  snow  to  melt,  and  consequently  tbe  snow-lioo  descended 
lower.  Ho  judged  it  to  be  400  feet,  hat  other  travellers  might  make  it  even  lower. 
ICo  doubt  some  of  the  glaciers  were  decreaaing,  but  others  at  Mount  8t  EUas  were 
vancing  and  getting  larger.    All  the  forest  land  which  ho  saw  was  being  destroyed 

their  advance.  With  regard  to  the  w^eather,  as  a  rule,  June  and  July  were  line. 
There  wag  not  a  single  drop  of  rain  during  the  whole  fortnight  he  remained  on  the 
slopes  of  Mount  St.  Elias,  although  it  was  cloudy.  After  that  bad  weather  set  in, 
and  it  rained  the  whole  time  he  was  in  Alaska. 

Tbe  CiTAiEMA?i  (Mr,  Francis  Galton)  congratulated  Lieut.  Seton-Karr  on  the 
opportunity  ho  had  had  of  exploring:  a  country  where  the  tbrc^s  of  nature  wore  to  U? 
seen  acting  on  a  very  large  scale.  The  journey  had  evidently  been  performed  under 
circumstances  of  great  difficulty.  We  rni^ht  expect  a  more  detailed  account  in  the 
nsrmtive  of  his  journey  which  he  is  about  to  publish.  He  experienced  many 
difficulties  which  he  has  not  mentioned  in  his  paper,  and  on  more  than  one  occasion 
he  was  in  ]>eril  of  his  life.  It  was  to  be  hoped  that  Alaska  would  be  further 
explored,  and  that  fuller  knowledge  would  be  obtained  of  its  moat  interesting 
charactedsticH. 


Between  the  Nile  and  the  Congo ;  Dr,  Junker  and  ihe  ( Welle)  Makua, 

By  J.  T.  Wills. 

(Read  at  the  Eveuiug  Meeting,  March  2Sth,  1887.) 
Map,  p.  330. 

I  NEED  hardly  remind  you  that  in  the  fertilo  part  of  Central  Africa, 
in  the  belt  of  tropical  rains  and  rich  vegetation  which  stretcheB  from 
the  Zambesi  to  Senaar  and  Lake  Tsad,  river  navigation  is  tho  oiily 
means  of  cheap  transport :  and  hoats  almost  the  only  altenmtive  to  slave 
porterage.  Hi  vers  are  here  tho  trade  rontes  and  tho  lines  upon  which 
European  inflnence  must  advance;  and  the  big  navigable  rivers^ 
with  tho  exception  of  the  Niger  Benuo  and  Zambesi,  al 
cme  of  three  points,  Berlxsr,  Lake  Tsad,  and  Stanley  Pc 
last  is  alone  at  present  accessible  to  us. 

Let  ns  first  look  for  a  moment  to  the  history  of 
round  the  region  in  qncstion.     The  first  central  A< 
explored  and  need  was  the  Nile.    Eighteen  ceutur 
tbe  Emperor  Nero,  two  Koman  centurions  ej' 
Kile  500  miles  beyond  Khartum  as  far  as  th 


286  BETWEEN  THE  KILE  AND  THE  CX)KGO:  ^H 

the  river  closed  in  bj  reeds  and  morasses,  full  of  tall  graea  into  whidi 
there  was  no  mefins  of  penetrating  either  hy  boat  or  on  foot.  This  sudd 
region  in  a  swamp  uf  vast  extent,  where  matted  weeds  and  floating 
grasses  choked  with  fine  mud,  and  knit  together  by  the  tangled  roota  of 
aquatic  plantB,  form  rafts  or  inlands  of  floating  sod^  on  which  other  tall 
grasses  grow,  and  which  jamb  and  block  the  deep  channels,  like  floating: 
ice  ill  jtolar  fieas»  while  all  around  |)apyma  and  other  reeds  grow  thick  on 
the  ehallo^v  swamps  and  inundated  flats.  The  block  so  formed  is  variable 
and  intermittent,  and  when  exploring  expeditions  in  1831>,  1840  and  1841, 
penetrated  for  the  first  time  beyond  the  point  reached  b}'  Nero's  cen- 
turions, little  hindrance  was  expt  rienced,  then  or  for  the  next  twenty-five 
years;  but  in  1870  Baker's  expedition  had  the  greatest  dilliculty  to  get 
through,  and  the  block  of  sudd  that  formed  in  1878  continued  on  and  off 
for  thieo  years,  and  after  nearly  frustrating  Gcssi'a  campaign  in  th© 
Bahr  Gazal,  eventually  caused  his  death  in  1881.  Emin  Bey  very 
postibly  *  owes  his  safety  now  to  the  re-formation  of  this  siuld  in  1884, 

When  European  ivory  traders  in  and  after  1845  followed  the  tracks* 
of  the  Egyptian  expetiitionB  beyond  the  sudd,  two  navigable  branches* 
of  the  Kile  were  found  ;  eno  navigable  at  all  seasons  as  far  as  Gondokoro 
(Lado),  and  the  other  as  far  as  Meshera  el  Eek,  The  custom  was  to  sail 
up  from  Khartum  to  cither  of  those  points*  in  the  dr}^  season  or  w^inter, 
and  to  sail  down  again  in  Juno  upon  the  flood.  Tlie  winds  are  strong 
and  steady  from  the  north  and  K.N.E,  for  three  or  four  months  as  far  as 
Meshera,  and  for  one  or  two  aa  far  as  Lado  ;  and  they  arc  nearly  equally 
strong  and  steady  from  tho  south  during  an  equal  period,  lesserdng  in 
strength  and  duration  up  north  towards  Berber,  as  the  winter  north 
winds  do  towards  Lado.  Consequently  the  clumsy  Khartum  nuggers 
of  40  or  50  tona,  with  a  20  fixit  Learn,  low  maets,  and  rotten,  spliced,  and 
cranky  yards,  often  average  up  to  the  sudd  some  four  or  five  miles  an 
hour  against  a  stream  that  generally  runs  two  miles  an  hour.  They  thus 
do  48  to  DO  miles  a  day,  and  in  nine  or  ten  days  get  to  the  sudd. 
Schweinfnrth  describes  Lis  nugger  often  staggering  under  bare  poles, 
when  the  wiud  was  best,  for  fear  of  breaking  the  yard.f  This  is  the 
chesi pest  river  navigation  in  Africa^and  according  to  Gesei,  freights  from 
above  Meshera  to  Khartum  were  only  27.  a  ton.  It  costa  at  present 
between  30L  and  401.  a  ton  to  get  porters'  loads  carried  up  from  the  £ea 
to  Stanley  Pool,  and  it  need  to  cuat  10^.  a  ton  by  camel  from  Suakin  to 
Berlter. 

We  all  know  how  these  trade-winds  soon  became  slave-trade  winds; 
how  soon  after  the  discovery  of  the  great  lakes  and  souicea  of  the  Kilo 

•  1  bc{^  kuv©  to  niter  roy  ophiioti.  News  from  tlie  Soudun  allows  that  the  Khnlif  nt 
Khiirtum  hiia  neilber  k-isiire  nor  i«>wer  lo  attack  him*  Nor  hau  uny  oud  vUc.  I  do  not 
iKliLve  there  ortf  any  rebels  or  A  labs  now  in  i\w  Bahr  Gazal  e:tcej.t  a  few  ecore  of  petty 
tela VI -bun tore,  aufl  those  without  jioliticBl  support  The  rtopciiiug  of  trade  with  tho 
Bcjudan,  boweTcr,  will  (juk'kly  iucriofie  Ibeir  numbers,— J.  T.  W. 

t  The  yardH,  if  mude  of  fir,  ha?e  to  be  imported  front  Trieate, 


4 


I 


DR.  JUNKER  AND  THE  (WELLE)  MAKUA.  287 

Sir  S.  Baker  was  sent  up  in  1870  to  stop  slaving  on  the  Lado  branch 
where  it  was  least  vigorous,  and  how  he  was  followed  by  Gordon  in 
1874-75-76,  while  Zebehr  and  many  other  smaller  slave-hunters  con- 
tinued their  devastations  practically  unmolested  in  the  Bahr  Oazal. 
And  we  know  how  Nile  explorations  led  to  other  explorations;  how 
Livingstone  traced  the  Zambesi  to  its  source,  and  Barth  visited  the 
countries  round  Lake  Tsad.  In  1870  Schweinfurth  went  through 
the  Bahr  Gazal  with  an  ivory  trader  and  reached  the  big  Welle 
Makua  in  Honbuttu,  beyond  the  Nile  watershed,  just  at  the  same 
time  that  Livingstone  explored  Lake  Bangweolo,  Lake  Moero,  and 
the  Lnalaba  down  to  Nyangwe.  Schweinfurth  reported  that  his 
river  was  supposed  to  run  to  the  Shari,  Livingstone  supposed  his 
to  be  the  Nile.  Three  years  later,  Cameron  disclosed  by  his  overlund 
march  the  south  watershed  of  the  Congo,  and  Nachtigal  got  important 
but  hearsay  information  of  the  south  watershed  of  the  Shari.  The 
mouth  of  the  Congo  was  known,  but  no  one  had  got  past  the  rapids 
between  the  sea  and  Stanley  PooL  In  1875  Gordon  was  on  the  Upper 
Nile  launching  steamers  *  (which  are  still  in  working  order)  on  the  upper 
Dufle  and  Lake  Albert  reach,  which  is  separated  from  Lado  by  over 
100  miles  of  land  transit.  He  established  the  government  which  Emin 
Bey  now  maintains,  Long,  his  lieutenant,  navigated  a  considerable 
unknown  reach  on  a  still  higher  level  in  our  enemy's  country;  and 
Stanley  sailed  round  Victoria  Nyanza,  which  pours  its  waters  in  Long's 
reach  orer  more  cataracts.  Stanley  then  went  to  the  slave-hnnters  at 
Xyangwe,  and  prepared  to  embark  on  the  unknown  river  there  in 
October  1876,  just  when  Gordon  went  down  to  Egypt  to  say  that  be 
would  not  go  back  to  the  Nile  unless  he  had  full  powers  over  the 
whole  Sondan  slave  trade. 

When  Stanley  emerged  on  the  west  coast  and  made  known  the 
Congo,  Gordon,  as  Governor-General,  was  preparing  to  pat  dowrn  at  laat 
the  roaring  slave  trade  of  the  Bahr  Gazal ;  and  Zebehr  was  writing  to 
his  son  there  to  rebeL  That  TehtUi/m  barred  farther  expUvatiMi  of  the 
WeUe  Makna.  Bohndorf^  CAce  Gordon's  and  afterwards  Junker's 
servant,  went  by  himself  io  ex{4are  in  Zebehr's  omDirj^  Uit  was  made 
to  swear  on  the  Kcffan,  and  was  finally  robbed  and  left  naked.  I>r. 
ianker,  wIm  was  already  in  the  Bahr  Gazal  in  1877,  had  Uj  keep  well 
Io  the  east,  wbeie  great  hardships  broke  his  health,  and  frxobi  him  Uj 
retire  for  a  year  to  Khartom  and  Egypt. 

Stanky.  as  we  knvw,  retnmed  to  the  Ccngo,  made  ^rm  his  vaj,  and 
took  np  his  ftteaaaer  to  Stanley  Poci],  and  in  Ibh^i  nrmtitd  for  the  fifvt 
umt  tLe  great  are  of  tLe  Congo  ^aU^e  Kwa  nnoiith «,  which  he  bad 
jaddWd  own  six  yean  before.  He  went  akffkg  the  sonth  bank  ^A  the 
Ce^<&.  wiJe^  is  ijere  ^ne^hr  so  wide  <'and  also  fmll<4'  is«anday  thai  the 
uher  bazJL  2»  kc^ssL  j  b&k#w  the  horizon  abi  imt  of  sight ;  when  at 
*  OaeKMIcKilnS' 


288 


BETWEEN  THE  NILE  AND  THE  CONGO; 


length  hd  crofised  over  and  reached  the  month  of  a  big  tribntarjr  on  the 
north  eide^  and  fonnd  from  the  friendly  natives  that  they  were  in 
possession  of  certain  |>6culiar  and  numiBtakable  Italian  beads  (which 
had  come  down  this  river  throngh  the  Watumba  from  traders  who  cam© 
from  the  north),  he  was  surprised  more  than  interested,  and  passed  on 
to  view  with  dismay  the  presence  of  Tippu  Tib'8  Nyangwe  slave-hunterft 
at  Stanley  Falls,  and  at  the  month  of  the  Aruwimi. 

These  beads  were  Rafai's  beads  :  the  big  river  which  Stanley  was 
told  came  far  from  tiie  north  or  north-east,  and  was  so  wido  above  that 
one  could  not  see  the  other  shore,  was  the  Loika  (or  Itimbiri ),  and  was 
found  last  year  to  bo  navigable  for  at  least  100  miles  at  all  seasons  from 
its  month.  It  is  identical  with  the  big  water  or  lake  reBWjhed  by  Eafai, 
six  days'  journey  sonth  from  the  Makna  across  the  oountry  of  the 
Ababua,  where  Eafai  had  a  secnre  trading  post.  Petermann*s  Mitthcil- 
tingen  had  published  Rafai'a  news  (which  Lupton  had  sent)  a  full 
year  before,  and  I  am  rather  surprised  to  find  that  atich  items  of  news 
were  not  forwarded  with  the  usual  letters  through  Belgium  to  Stanley 
on  the  Congo. 

Hicks,  VI  itli  hi8  army  of  10,000  men,  had  been  slain  four  or  five  days 
before  Stanley  appeared  on  the  Loika  (on  Xovcmber  lOth,  1883),  Lupton, 
at  Dem  Suleiman  was  receiving,  as  a  precious  gift,  300  percussion  caps 
from  Bohndorf,  Dr.  Junker's  servant,  who  had  hurried  off  with  news  of 
his  master  to  catch  the  expected  steamer— the  last  Bteamer  that  ever 
visited  the  Bahr  GazaL  Rafai,  Lupton*6  best  captaiai,  had  fallen  fighting 
bravely  against  the  ^lave-hunters  or  Mahdiists.  Rumbek  was  taken 
by  storm  by  t!ie  rebels,  and  Emin's  garrison  there  put  to  the  sword  the 
same  month,  and  the  news  of  that  disaster  recalled  Emin  Bey  horn 
Tangasi  in  Monbuttu,  on  the  Makiia,  five  days  after  his  long  and  anxi- 
ously expected  arrival  in  that  neglected  district,  and  forced  Dr.  Junker 
also  to  retire  from  his  half-explored  rivers  to  Lado.  Thus  connection 
between  the  Soudan  and  the  Congo  was  just  not  made  in  1883,  and  no 
further  exploration  of  northern  tributaries  of  the  Congo  took  place  till 
fifteen  months  ago. 

Let  us  now  trace  Br*  Junker's  explorations,  all  made  before  November 
1883  and  on  foot.  After  having  recruited  his  health  in  Egypt,  ho  arrived 
in  the  spring  of  1880  in  the  Bahr  Gazal,  where  Gessi  was  celebrating  the 
Erst  anniversary  of  his  great  victories  over  the  slave- hunt ci-a.  Gessi 
had  40,000  liberated  slaves  on  his  hands,  and  was  planting  them  in  the 
colonies,  hoping  they  would  settle  down  as  cultivators.  He  was  building 
nuggers  on  the  Wan,  and  was  collecting  a  good  quantity  of  ivory,  and 
50  tons  of  first  rate  indiambbcr.  Ndoruma,  a  great  Zandeh  chief, 
whose  country  lies  on  the  watershed  of  the  Nile  basin,  and  %vho  had  for 
years  successfully  repulsed  the  slave-hunters,  and  on  one  occasion  liad 
destroyed  a  force  of  800  muskets,  had  recently  "  come  in,"  first  sending 
envoys  with  a  present  of  100  tusks  of  ivory  to  ascertain  if  the  good  news 


DR.  JUNKER  AND  THE  (WELLE)  HAKUA.  289 

about  the  new  governor  was  true,  and  then  coming  hiiHself  to  do 
homage  or  make  sabmission.  He  gave  Oessi  all  his  ivory,  1000  loads,  i.e. 
150  tons,  and  also  offered  to  give  up  the  800  captured  muskets.  To 
Ndoruma's,  therefore,  Dr.  Junker  went,  but  as  his  armed  escort  of  ten 
negro  riflemen  or  basingers  caused  great  alarm,  he  sent  them  back  at 
once  from  the  chiefs  border,  trusted  then  and  thenceforward  to  the  good- 
will of  Zandeh  chieftains,  and  never  had  cause  to  regret  this  course. 

From  Ndoruma  he  went  to  the  Makua,  and  acted  in  fact,  though 
not  in  name  as  a  government  ambassador.  *'  I  am  looked  on,"  he  writes, 
*'as  a  mediator.  Qessi  is  only  too  anxious  to  punish  the  deeds  of 
violence  which  the  natives  suffer  at  the  hands  of  the  Nubians  whom  he 
sends  out  to  collect  ivory.  As  long  as  1  remain  here,  robberies  and 
murders  are  not  likely  to  be  committed,  for  fear  of  my  reporting  them. 
Ndoruma's  belief  in  my  protective  power  is  shared  by  many  other  chiefs 
near  here,  all  of  whom  have  either  visited  me  or  sent  messengers :  they 
are  afraid,  not  only  of  the  Arabs  (Nubians),  but  also  of  their  own  kith 
and  kin.  Blood  feuds  are  frequent,  and  each  prince  fears  to  go  in  peace 
to  his  own  cousins  and  brothers."  Semio,  for  instance,  to  the  west  of 
Ndoruma,  who  had  felt  the  weight  of  Zebehr's  and  Suleiman's  attacks 
ever  since  the  destruction  of  Mofio,  his  liege  lord  and  northern  neigh- 
bour in  1874,  had  become  a  mere  vassal  of  Suleiman,  intrusted  by  him 
with  the  use  of  besinger  riflemen  for  the  purpose  and  on  condition  of 
getting  slaves  and  ivory  from  his  neighbours.  Semio,  now  that  times 
had  changed,  dared  not  go  outside  his  own  marches,  and  sent  many 
urgent  requests  to  Junker  to  come  to  him.  Kifa  also  sent  to  ask  him  to 
try  his  persuasion  upon  a  rebellious  relative. 

Junker,  however,  sending  Bohndorf  to  pay  calls  on  these  chiefis,  went 
south  and  struck  the  Makua,  where  there  were  alarms  of  war,  which 
made  the  natives  (here  Monbuttus)  distrust  him  and  show  hostility. 
He  was  very  glad  when  Ndoruma,  who  had  heard  he  was  in  diffi- 
culties, arrived  in  hot  haste  with  all  his  forces  and  set  him  free.  Ho 
then  surveyed  this  country  in  the  bend  of  the  Makua,  and  reconciled  two 
brother-chieftains  who  had  been  egged  on  to  fight  each  other  by  detach- 
ment of  so-called  troops,  who  were  hero  doing  pretty  much  as  they 
liked.  He  also  effected  a  reconciliation  in  the  family  of  Wando,  another 
Zandeh  chief.  Wando*s  son,  Hoqua  alone  of  all  the  family,  had  sub- 
mitted to  the  Egyptian  Government,  which  means,  I  must  explain,  that 
he  had  agreed  to  help  Yussuf  Bey,  Mudir  of  the  Eohl,  to  get  slaves  and 
ivory  from  the  territories  of  his  brothers  and  father. 

When  Dr.  Junker  arrived  on  the  Makua  there  was  a  body  of  his 
troops,  under  a  Colonel  Hawash,  fitly  described  by  Casati  as  brigands, 
here  well  out  of  Gessi's  reach  and  control,  who  were  bullying  the 
Monbuttus  on  the  south  of  the  Makua,  to  the  great  alarm  of  Kanna  and 
even  of  Bakangai,  great  Zandeh  chieftains,  lower  down  the  Makua  on  its 
south  side. 


380 


BETWEEN  THE  NILE  AND  THE  CONGO: 


Dr.  Junker  probably  knew  that  GeB«i  had  then  qiiitted  tbe  Babr 
Gazali  finding  bis  position  under  the  new  Governor-Generial  intolerable, 
but  be  did  not  know  tbat  be  %vaa  then  dead,  baving  been  rescued  too 
Jate,  and  at  the  jioint  of  starvation,  with  fifty  otber  survivors  only  out 
of  400,  from  the  raiddle  of  the  sudd  in  wbicb  hi«  worn-out  etaamer  bad 
been  belple^sly  blocked  for  tbree  montbs  (September  1880  to  Januarj^ 
1881).  He  tberefore  avoided  tbe  Monbuttu  region  for  a  timet  and 
iiaving  waited  for  ono  of  Gossips  more  respeotablo  ivor}'- trailing  agents, 
Osman  Badui,  and  for  the  escort  of  bia  caravan,  went  to  Bakangai's, 
where  (July  1881)  be  found  much  confidence  reposed  in  him,  and  much 
alaroi  felt  at  tbe  doings  of  Ha  wash*  He  kept  promising  the  people  a 
lietter  future  when  Emin  Bey  should  como  to  set  thing«  in  order,  and 
**  often,"  he  says,  *'  did  I  hear  them  speak  thus  in  reply  :  *  TeU  us  again 
such  sweet  tidings ;  this  year  of  your  coming  is  a  fortunate  one  for  us. 
Through  your  words  we  hope  for  a  better  future/  "  He  wrote  to  Emin 
Bey  of  this,  and  to  say  that  he  had  promised  that  he  would  presently 
oome  to  set  things  right.  There  waa  no  governor  in  the  Babr  Gazal  all 
that  year,     Lupton  arrived  only  in  December  1881, 

From  Bakangai  he  went  back  through  Kaivna*s  country  to  where 
Colonel  Ha  wash  bad  been  fighting  Manbanga,  Munza's  cousin,  for  over 
a  year,  and  was  lying  by  till  he  could  avenge  tbe  defeat  of  some 
detacbments  by  annihilating  the  Monbuttu  chief.  He  was  well  received 
and  listened  to  both  by  Hawaeli  and  Manbanga,  and  succeeded  in 
making  a  truce  and  in  getting  Hawash  to  observe  it  while  be  reported 
his  conduct  to  Emin  by  letter.  Emin'a  reply  came  back  by  letter  over 
a  distance  of  400  miles,  and  was  (as  I  gather  from  Casati)  obeyed  by 
Hawash, 

Br.  Jnnker*8  own  account  of  his  action  in  this  matter  is  very  modeat, 
but  Casati  shows  that  it  was  miicb  more  considerable  in  weight  and 
effect.  Casjiti  met  Junker  here,  and  describes  him  as  follows; — A  man 
of  groat  culture  and  intelligence,  modest  and  unaffected,  full  of  open- 
hearted  kiudnesa  to  mo,  who  won  my  highest  esteem — a  man  of  firm 
character  too,  rpiiet  and  self-possessed,  "  I  left  him  "  he  adds,  "  full  of 
content  and  happiness.**  Dr.  Junker  has  been  dei^cribed  very  unfairly 
and  incorrectly  by  Mr.  Stanley  in  the  Time*  as  an  honest  little  man, 
altogether  absorbed  in  recording  geographicHl  minutiaa  on  an  elaborate 
large-scale  map,  and  as  a  Russian.  Dr.  Junker  is  a  German,  of  Gorjuan 
parents,  born  and  bred  in  Germany,  educated  entirely  at  German  schools 
and  colleges,  and  German  to  tbe  backbone.  In  justice  to  him  I  must 
ask  your  attention  to  tbe  good  political  work  which  he  did  hero  and 
©laowhere. 

Dr.  Junker  returned  to  Bakangai,  explored  the  southern  watershed 
of  tbe  Makua,  and  waited  for  Emin's  arrival  and  for  the  reply  to  his 
report  upon  Hawashs  in  which,  when  it  came,  Emin  made  a  promise  to 
follow  soon,  which  pa'omise  events  did  not  allow  hiai  to  fulfil.     He  then 


DR.  JUNKER  AND  TH£  (WELLE)  MAEUA.  291 

went  sonth  through  Monbutta  to  the  banks  of  a  river  Nepoko,  70  yards 
wide,  which  almost  certainly  runs  into  the  Biyerre,*  and  which  he 
struck  in  about  1^  48'  N.  Here  he  was  detained  by  Sanga,  a  Monbuttu 
chief,  who  was  trying  to  reorganise  on  the  Nepoko  part  of  the  shattered 
remains  of  Munza's  people,  who  had  been  driven  by  the  slavers  from  the 
hanks  of  the  Makua.  The  numbers  of  the  nation  have  greatly  de- 
creased. Junker  says,  and  in  their  present  seats,  whither  they  have  thus 
been  driven,  they  form  an  aristocracy  of  a  few  thousands,  ruling  nume- 
rous backward  and  comparatively  uncivilised  indigenous  tribes.  Sanga 
detained  him  as  he  did  not  know  whether  he  was  friend  or  foe,  and 
Junker  had  to  send  secretly  to  Gambari,  a  Monbuttu  whom  he  had 
visited  further  east,  to  give  him  a  good  character.  Gambari  was  a 
slave,  brought  up  in  Yussufs  household,  who  had  been  sent  by  Yussuf 
to  Monbuttu  to  rule  it  as  a  conquered  country,  but  having  failed  t 
and  having  been  dismissed,  he  had  been  himself  captured  lately  by  the 
miscreant  Arabs  on  the  Eohl,  and  was  just  saved  by  Emin's  arrival  from 
being  sent  down  to  Khartum  to  be  sold  as  a  slave.  Gambari's  repre- 
sentations set  Junker  free,  and  in  September  1882  he  rejoined  his 
servant  Bohndorf  at  Semio's,  after  a  year  and  a  halfs  absence,  and 
reposed  awhile,  being  ill  from  bad  food  and  want  of  necessaries,  out  at 
elbows,  out  at  heel,  and  consequently  lame. 

Dr.  Junker  found  that  between  the  south  water-shed  of  the  Makua 
and  the  Nepoko,  and  rather  to  the  west  of  his  route  to  the  Nepoko,  lay 
the  headnsprings  of  the  Nawa  which  flows  west  and  becomes  a  big  river ; 
it  runs  five  or  six  days  south  of  Bakangai's  and  must,  as  he  says,  be 
Bafai's  big  water,  and  Stanley's  Itimbiri,  which  we  ought  to  call  Loika. 

Dr.  Junker  left  Bohndorf  (whom  he  did  not  see  again)  at  Semio's 
in  the  end  of  1882.  He  explored  the  Werre  or  Opi,  which  falls  into  the 
Hakua  about  long.  24^°,  and  found  rapids  on  the  Makua,  near  the 
junction ;  these  being  the  only  Icnoum  rapids  on  it  below  the  Kibali 
rapids  in  long.  28^.  Travelling  as  usual  overland,  from  one  Zandeh  chief 
to  another,  he  struck  the  Makua  at  several  other  points  of  which  Ali  Kobe's 
seriba  in  about  22^  E.  3|  N.  was  the  furthest.  The  Makua  was  here 
colossal,  and  full  of  islands  (as  it  is  elsewhere  above)  some  of  which  are 
thickly  populated  while  others  are  full  of  elephants.  Fi-om  bank  to 
bank  the  river  was  perhaps  six  miles  across.  It  ran  north-west,  and 
six  days  beyond  was  joined  by  the  Kuta  ;  of  this  junction  he  is  quite 
positive,  the  point  being  well  known  to  the  Zandehs ;  in  fact  all  the 
Zandeh  chiefs  seem  to  know  it,  for  Casati  up  at  Kanna's  was  told  how 
these  rivers  joined  in  the  land  of  Ambanenghe,  and  Fotagos  learnt  the 
same  at  Ingimma's  years  before,  with  this  addition,  that  canoes  there 
had  sails. 

•  Miscalled  the  Aruwimi. 

t  In  loppljing  eunuchs ;  but  not  for  want  of  trying.    He  was  one  himself.    The 
matter  is  fully  dealt  with  by  Gessi  in  an  unpablished  letter  to  General  Gordon. 


203 


BETWKEN  THE  NILE  AND  THE  CONGO: 


Dr.  Junker  had  no  means  of  navigating  the  river,  Tiie  Zandehs, 
"wLose  chiefs  were  everywhere  friendly  to  Mm  and  glad  to  see  Mm,  do 
not  own  boats.  The  tribes  inhabiting  the  banka  and  i&lands  are  quite 
distinct  in  raco  and  language,  and  knew  nothing  of  Geesi  or  Ltipton,  or 
of  their  anti-slavery  policy.  Ali  Kobo  and  other  government  ivory 
traders  were  now  comers  and  were  only  just  beginning  to  get  acquainted 
with  tbem  ;,  a  voyage  would  have  meant  fighting,  Dr,  Junker  therefore 
went  back  to  the  north-west  to  connect  his  surveys  with  Luptcn'a. 
Between  Ali  Kobo  and  Singio's  he  passed  no  rivor  of  any  mzo  running  to 
the  Kuta,  Singio'a  is  a  little  abovo  the  junction  of  the  Shinko  and 
Mbomo  and  just  below  the  junction  of  the  Warre  (of  which  one  fork  is 
called  Uallej  and  the  Mbomo.  He  then  went  to  S©mio*s  and  sent  news  of 
his  return  (and  of  the  Makwa  having  been  last  seen  to  the  south-west) 
to  Lupton  and  Bohndorf.  Lupton  replied  that  he  had  explored  as  far 
west  as  Foro,  along  lat.  7°  N.,  and  had  taken  latitudes.  Junker  con- 
nected his  survey  at  Mbanga,  where  Lupton  had  taken  sixteen  stellar 
observations  for  latitude,  and  at  Bern  Bekir  closed  his  own  circuit. 
Junker  only  surveyed  with  compass,  and  by  reckoning  distances 
travelled,  yet  he  took  such  car©  and  had  made  bo  many  cross  routes  and 
subsidiary  triangles^  that  at  Mbanga  he  was  not  much  out  in  his  reckon- 
ing (according  to  Lupton 's  latitude).  Still  he  was  out  of  course.  Cor- 
recting the  map  so  as  to  fit  Lupton*s  latitude  we  get  the  Makua  into 
the  position  shown  on  my  sketch  map.  Dr.  Junker's  uncorrected 
mapping  makes  it  cross  Grenfell*s  Loika. 

Lupton's  letter  reporter!  that  all  tho  streams  he  had  crossed  going 
to  Foro  ran  fiouth  or  south- west  to  the  Mbomo,  and  two  of  them  the 
8hinko  and  Enji  were  as  big  as  the  Mbomo  itself.  The  Bhinko  or 
l^iperwer  {Bohndorfs  Ghenko)  is  formed  by  the  junction  at  MaiTa  of 
several  streams,  some  of  which  rise  three  or  four  days  S.S.W,  of  Hofrat 
el  Nahas.  Marra  is  1D80  feet  above  the  sea,  or  1000  feet  above  Stanley 
Pool,  and  tlie  iShinko  there  M^as  20  to  25  feet  deep  and  90  yards  wide 
with  steep  banks.  It  is  not  fordable  in  the  diy  season  anywhere  lower 
down.  From  Furo,  which  is  beyond  the  Enji  but  in  its  basin^  Lupton 
had  sent  a  man  south  or  S.8.W.  rather  to  the  Kuta  (as  the  joint  Ml>omo 
Sliinko  is  called  there)  to  report  upon  it.  The  man  took  44  hours  and 
odd  minutes  on  the  way,  halts  excluded,  to  Barusso  on  the  Kuta,  which 
jilaces  it  about  6°  20'  X.,  and  found  the  river  two  or  three  miles  wide, 
running  west.  A  river  which  Lupton  calls  the  Welle  joined  it  13  hours 
above,  and  a  big  river  joined  it  also  from  the  south  four  days  l>eIow 
EaruBSO*  This  last  must  bo  the  Makua,  for  Junker  found  no  other  inter- 
mediate river  of  any  size,  except  one  that  ran  west  to  the  Makua. 

It  will  be  well  for  the  future,  to  avoid  confusion,  to  call  the  Welle 
Makua,  **  Makua/*  and  the  Werro  or  Opi,  "  Opi."  Makua  is  the  Monbuttu 
name ;  tho  Zandehs  call  it  ^Varshah    Welle,  I  believe,  only  means  river. 

Lupton's  letter  is  dated  October.       Hicks  and  hiB  army  perished, 


ML  JOXKKR  AND  THE  (WKLLC)  HAKCiL  293 

and  Stanley  anived  at  the  month  of  the  Loika  in  November ;  the  last 
rteamer  came  np  and  took  down  Bohndorf  with  Lapton's  news  in 
December;  Goidon  met  Bohndorf  in  the  Eorosko  desert  in  January, 
leaznt  his  news  in  fiiU  at  Khartum,  and  must  have  been  encouraged  by 
it  in  his  long  consLd^ed  plan*  for  going  south  to  Lupton  with  all 
steamers  and  stores,  and  holding  the  Bahr  Gazal  till  he  could  open  up  a 
route  to  the  Congo,  and  find  a  water-way  up  the  Makua  or  to  the  Makua 
by  which  the  n^ro  Soudan  could  be  permanently  held  against  the 
Mahdi,  and  against  all  slave  traders.  I  call  attention  to  this  plan  of 
<jordon's  because  we  are  now  perhaps  able  to  carry  it  out. 

I  must  leave  Dr.  Junker  himself  to  describe  these  countries  and 
their  people  in  fnlL  As  you  see  from  the  map  a  great  quadrangle  of 
country  between  the  Bahr-el-Arab  on  the  north,  the  Lado-Nile  or  White 
Nile  on  the  east,  the  Makua  on  the  south,  and  Foro,  the  Enji,  and 
Ali  Kobo  on  the  west,  has  been  explored  £nom  the  side  of  the  Soudan. 
The  water-shed  runs  from  comer  to  comer  diagonally  from  Wadelai  to 
60  or  70  miles  south-weet  or  W.S.W.  of  Hofrat  el  Nahas  (the  copper 
mines),  the  extreme  known  point  here  being  a  mountain  with  a  wide 
view,  ascended  by  Potagos  in  1877,  in  company  with  Arabs  who  told  him 
what  he  was  looking  at.  The  watershed  is  highest  in  the  south-east, 
and  beyond  Wadelai  it  flanks  Albert  Nyanza  in  mountains  7000  feet 
high.  There  are  passes  of  4000  to  5000  feet  leading  to  the  sources  of 
the  Makua  from  Wadelai.  Mount  Baginze,  due  south  of  Meshera,  is 
4000  feet;  there  are  several  mountains  probably  higher  than  this  in 
Makaraka  about  the  sources  of  the  Bodi,  and  a  large  tract  of  country 
ahove  3000  feet  high.  To  the  north-west  the  watershed  seems  to  be 
pretty  flat  in  many  places. 

Hie  rivers  on  the  Nile  slope  run  north  in  long  parallel  courses. 
The  eastern  or  longer  rivers,  Bodi,  Bohl,  Boah,  and  Tonj,  in  and  after 
the  rainy  seascm  inundate  large  parts  of  the  great  triangle  of  low  flat 
plain  that  fills  the  whole  space  between  the  Bahr-el-Gazal  and  Nile  as  &r 
as  Bumbek,  and  nearly  as  far  as  a  north-west  and  south-east  line  drawn 
through  Lado  and  Djur  Ghattas.  Their  lower  courses  are  therefore  lost 
in  swamps  and  reeds,  and  are  not  navigable.  The  five  shorter  rivers  on 
the  west  are  all  navigable  from  Meshera  for  at  least  five  months  in  the 
year  to  boats  drawing  five  feet  of  water,  up  to  points  ascertained  by 
Lupton.  Dem  Suleiman  is  close  to  one  of  these  points.  There  is 
at  least  10  feet  of  water  up  to  Wau  and  Kurshukali  for  seven  or  ei^t 
months.t 

The  low  flats  sweep  round  up  the  Bahr  Arab,  and  Hofrat  is  on  a 
great  open  whidi  is  lower  (at  40  miles  east  of  Hofrat)  than  the  NOe  at 

*  See  Lieut-Gen.  8ir  G.  Graham'a  mrtiele  in  the  « FottnigfaUj  Beriew/  Jan.  1887, 
and  Goidoii*s  «La£t  JoonttlA,'  pp.  47,  48,  49,  87, 112,  145,  200,  225. 
t  Gesi  (nnpablisbed  letter> 


2a4 


BETWEEN  THE  NILE  AND  THE  CONGO: 


Wado,  Hofrat  la  tlie  copper  mine,  for  the  sake  of  which  Zelsehr  made 
war  on  Darfur*  The  ore  standi  up  in  a  long  wide  reef,  protruding  two 
or  three  feet  above  the  ground.  It  is  very  pure.  Zebehr  and  Geeai 
worked  it  and  bartered!  copper  for  ivory.  Copper  is  tho  ouly  precious 
metal  known  to  the  ]\Ionbuttu9  and  other  Congo  negroes,  and  was  much 
valued.  The  Babr-cl-Arab  is  fordable  in  tho  dry  season  at  25J;°  eastt 
but  not,  it  is  said,*  lower  down,  Por  five  months  or  more  it  floods  the 
swamps  on  its  banks  so  as  to  form  an  almost  impasBable  hai*rier  between  the 
negro  and  Arab,  the  fertile  and  tho  desert  regions  of  tho  Soudan,  every- 
where east  of  Ilofrat,  or  of  long,  25"^,  It  is  no  doubt  obstructed  by 
sudd  and  reeds  below,  but  except  lor  this  ought  to  be  navigable  for 
eight  months;  its  course  is  only  too  flat.  This  triangular  flat  would  be 
suitable  for  growing  ricct  but  at  present  is  worthless,  and  is  thinly 
inhabited  by  Dinka  negroes  with  their  thin^  but  highly  venerated  cows. 
It  must  always  be  verj^  unhealthy*.  The  valuable  and  healthy  part  of 
the  Nile  elope  is  the  upland  plateau  2000  to  3000  feet  high,  which  begins 
just  north  of  the  lino  Djur  Ghattas-Lado  and  continues  beyond  the 
watershed.  Schweinfnrth  fully  describes  its  characteristics— the  rich  red 
ferrugineouB  and  rather  spongy  soil,  tho  park-like  and  moderately 
timbered  uplands  (wliere  tho  tall  grass  is  fired  every  year,  as  it  is  on 
the  low  triangular  flat  and  throughout  Senaar),  the  real  tropical  forests 
which  clothe  tho  banks  of  the  nairow  river  cuttings  f  which  are 
generally  200  or  300  feet  deep,  in  which  the  air  is  close  and  heavy  in 
contrast  to  tho  fresh  and  open  air  above. 

In  the  Makua  basin,  tho  vegetation  is  more  luxuriant,  and  the  trees 
bigger,  Indiarubber  (for  instance)  which  Gessi  and  Lupton  exported  in 
quantity,  and  of  first  rate  quality  (much  better  than  the  Brazilian)  is 
more  abundant.  The  banana  grows  in  Monbuttu,  but  in  the  Nile  basin 
not  north  of  Wadelai,  There  is  more  for  eat,  though  the  Zandehs 
regularly  burn  the  tail  grass  annually-  I  do  not  know  if  this  firing  of 
the  prairies  is  a  long-establiBhed  practice  or  not ;  its  effect  in  creating 
prairies  is  of  course  great.  Going  from  Kurabek  to  Tangaai  in  the 
hottest  six  months  of  tho  year,  Casati  found  6G^  and  97^  were  the  ex- 
tremes of  temperature  (l9"-36''  C)  which  is  very  moderate.  Monbuttu 
country  proper  is  distinctly  healthy,  very  fottile  and  well  watered, 
but  rolling,  well  drained,  and  2500  to  2800  feet  high.  The  Nubians 
were  bringing  their  wives  and  children  to  settle  there  in  1871,  and,  aa  we 
know,  they  are  not  so  tolerant  of  moist  heat  as  Engliehmon.  Ten  or 
twenty  thousand  of  them,  must  have  emigrated  for  good,  or  rather  for 
evil,  to  the  Bahr  Gazal,  before  Gessi  turned  them  out.  By  all  accounts 
the  Makua  slope  is  healthier  than  the  Nile  slope.  Bohndorf  notices 
the  difference  at  Mbanga,  which  is  at  nearly  tho  same  altitude  as  Dem 
Suleiman,  Lupton,  in  the  Bahr  Gazal,  thanks  to  constant  activity,  had 
not  a  day's  sickness. 

•  Schweinfuiitj.  f  Schwemfujrlli'fl  ija/en^  foreata. 


DR.  JUNKER  AND  THE  (WELLE)  MAKUA.  295 

The  two  chief  races  in  the  Makua  basin  are  the  Zandehs  and  the 
Monbnttas  (the  latter  is  a  name  given  by  the  Arabs).  The  sonth  bank 
of  the  Makua  generally  is  Monbuttu,  and  the  north  Zandeh  as  far  east  as 
long.  28^  The  Zandehs  stretch  along  the  watershed  to  near  Lado ;  the 
Makarakas  who  supply  Emin  with  his  best,  and  >vith  most,  of  his 
soldiers,  being  Zandehs.  To  the  north-west  they  reach  the  Shinko,  and 
the  sonth  bank  of  the  Euta,  The  Bandas,*  who  occupy  all  the  country  west 
of  the  Shinko  and  north  of  the  Kuta,  as  far  (according  to  Nachtigal)  as 
latitude  9^  north, are  the  same  as  the  Zandehs  in  language  and  customs^but 
there  are  political  differences,  and  they  refuse  to  be  called  Zandehs.  The 
Zandehs  also  have  conquered  and  occupied,  not  long  ago,  the  Bomokandi 
basin,  thus  cutting  off  the  Monbuttus  proper  of  Schweinfurth  (in  Munza's 
and  Degberra*s  kingdoms)  and  from  the  A-Babua,  who  are  of  the  same 
race  and  language,  and  who  extend  from  about  the  Mbelima  as  far  as  Ali 
Eobo,  and  apparently  south  to  the  Nawa-Loika.  The  original  inhabitants 
of  the  Zandeh  countries  in  the  Bomokandi  basin,  are  called  Mege  and 
A-Barambo.  The  tribes  east  and  south  of  the  Monbuttu,  are  by  them 
called  Momyu,f  and  those  south  of  Nepoko,  Mabode.  The  Mege  are 
Monbuttu  in  language  if  not  in  race.  The  tribes  south  and  east  of  the 
Monbuttu's  proper,  as  far  as  the  Albert  Nyanza  watershed,  are  looked  down 
on  by  them  as  poor  ravages,  and  as  above  stated,  the  Monbuttus,  though 
much  broken  up  by  slave-hunters,  exist  now  chiefly  as  an  aristocracy 
ruling  inferior  subject  races. 

Of  the  tribes  through  which  Stanley  means  to  go  east  and  north-east 
from  Stanley  Falls,  little  is  known.  According  to  Dr.  Junker  they  are 
disorganised  and  disunited,  and  probably  sparsely  scattered  in  a  rough, 
hilly,  forest  country :  they  have  goats,  and  those  nearest  Lake  Albert  have 
catUe.  The  rivers  there  beyond  the  Nepoko  have  probably  a  rapid  fall. 
The  liver  that  joins  the  Congo  just  below  the  Falls  is  twice  broken  by 
rapids  a  short  way  up. 

The  Akkas  or  dwarfs,  exist  only  in  scattered  colonies.  In  the  coun- 
try west  of  the  Shinko,  and  north  of  the  Kuta,  which  the  Nubians  call 
Dar  Abu  Dinga,  are  a  peculiar  people,  the  Nsakkara.  The  A-Bassango, 
who  inhabit  the  banks  and  islands  of  the  Makua,  and  who  practically 
monopolise  its  navigation  throughout,  are  distinct  from  the  Monbuttus, 
Zandehs  and  others.     They  have  canoes  sixty-feet  long. 

The  attention  of  travellers  and  linguists  will  be  directed  mainly  to 
the  Zandehs,  Monbuttus  (i.  e.  A-Babua,  <fec.)  and  A-Bassango. 

The  Monbuttus  are  a  superior  and  intelligent  people,  superior  to  any 
of  the  Bahr  Gazal  tribes,  from  whom,  as  Schweinfurth  says,  you  may 
expect  an  intelligent  answer  and  a  sound  judgment,  and  whose  word  you 
can  rely  on  in  matters  of  business.  In  Mnnza's  time  they  emphatically 
formed  a  nation,  and  knew  it.  They  stood  by  each  other  faithfully  as 
fellow-countrymen,  and  they  are  faithful  to  friends.     Many  of  them 

*  Or  Bandja.  f  A  tcim  of  contempt 


296 


BETWEEN  THE  NILE  AND  THE  CONGO ; 


foTiglit  imder  Gesai.  He  eaved  them  for  a  time,  and  deposed  Gambari, 
Emin  came  to  Tangasi  in  1  B83»  and  administered  tlie  country,  which  is 
part  of  his  province ;  the  nation  was  then  much  broken  and  decayed,  and 
looked  to  him  for  protection. 

The  Monbnttns  are  agriculturiits  and  smiths.  Their  population 
in  1870  was  very  dense;  according  to  Schweinfjirth,  about  a  million  in 
a  space  of  a  square  degree,  or  250  to  the  mile.  Though  they  have 
neither  pincers  or  iile,  or  tho  art  of  tempering  by  immersion,  they 
supplied  the  Zand  eh  8  with  many  of  their  weapons.  They  felled  trees, 
and  made  canoes  40  feet  long  and  5  wide,  with  a  tedious  little  iron 
hatchet.  Miinza's  great  hall,  100  feet  long,  50  wide»  and  40  high,  was 
the  architectural  triumph  of  Central  Africa,  They  did  not  know  how 
to  weave  cloth  in  1B70,  though  tho  A-Babria  did.  The  men  dressed  in 
fig-bark,  while  the  women  went  naked.  They  are  light-coloured,  have 
rather  long  curved  noses  (for  negroes),  and  are  all  oircumcised.  They 
are  great  cannibals,  and  naturally  so,  as  they  have  no  domestic  animals 
to  eat,  and  are  not  great  hunters.  Bananas,  cassava,  yams,  sweet 
potatoes,  and  sesame,  are  their  chief  food. 

The  Monbuttti  women  are,  according  to  Schweinfurth,  a  striking 
and  most  un pleasing  contrast  to  the  Zandeh  women,  who  are  modest 
and  retiring,  faithful  as  wives,  and  devotedly  attached  to  their 
husbands. 

King  Munza  was  a  powerful  monarch  who  levied  taxes,  and  kept 
good  order.  He  had  a  great  retinue  of  couiliera  and  officials,  and 
affected  mnch  state  and  pomp  whenever  he  emerged  from  his  usual 
privacy •  AH  that  he  touched  was  sacred.  He  protected  his  people 
from  the  abominable  malpractices  of  the  slave-dealers,  and  steadily 
refused  to  let  any  of  his  numerous  daugbters  marry  an  Arab  or  Nubian. 
For  these  reasons  they  murdered  him  iu  187i>. 

The  Zandehs  are  a  less  civilised  but  more  promising  race.  Their 
domestic  virtues  seora  to  be  considerable,  and  their  fighting  qnalkiea 
are  superior  to  those  of  any  other  negroes  in  the  Soudan.  The  testimony 
as  to  this  last  is  clear  and  unanimous.  Emin  has  written  most  em- 
phatically of  the  gallant  defence  of  Amadi  by  his  Makarakas,  who  ate 
their  boots  and  then  at  last  cot  their  way  out.  The  negro  battalions 
in  Hicks's  army  stood  out  a  whole  day  without  water  after  he  and  his 
Egyptians  perished,  refusing  to  capitulate,  and  saying  they  had  eaten 
tho  Effendina's  *  bread,  and  therefore  meant  to  do  their  duty.  Con- 
tinually during  the  rebeUion  the  basingers  died  like  the  Old  Guard, 
selling  their  lives  very  dearly.  The  best  of  them,  without  any  doubt, 
were  Zandehs.  Lupton*8  intention  to  take  to  the  jungle  with  a  spear, 
along  with  his  trusty  Zandehs,  when  his  ammimition  should  be  spent, 
and  to  so  continue  resistance,  argues  in  favour  of  the  troopa  as  well 
as  of  the  leader.     Sudden  betrayal  only  prevented  him  doing  so. 

•  K-e.  tho  GoreninieTit'&   . 


DR,  JUNKER  AND  THE  (WELLE)  MAKUA.  297 

The  Zandebs  are  a  nation  of  hunters.  Hunting  is  their  chief  occupa- 
tion. Meat  is  their  word  for  food,  and  they  hunt  for  meat.  They  have 
no  cattle,  and  a  third  of  their  grain  (eleusine)  goes  in  brewing  a  drink 
that  deserves  the  name  of  beer.  They  can  carve  well,  and  make  pottery 
and  iron  weapons.  Their  huts  are  tasteful,  and  they  are  very  fond  of 
music,  even  of  their  own.  They  take  auguries  regularly  before  going 
to  war,  and  seem  to  have  a  faint  sort  of  hero  worship.  Schweinfurth 
thinks  their  religious  ideas  are  poor,  but  the  Banda  tribes*  have  a 
male  and  female  deity,  each  of  whom  has  a  shrine  in  each  homestead, 
where  they  lay  their  offerings,  take  oaths,  "  baptise  "  their  children,  and 
take  auguries.  In  person,  tbey  are  remarkable  for  their  round  broad 
heads,  short  legs,  and  big  full  eyes  set  wide  apart,  and  above  all  for 
their  graceful  agility  and  ease  of  motion,  high  training,  and  evident 
mastery  over  every  accomplishment  that  befits  a  hunter. 

Politically  they  are  disunited,  through  the  number  and  turbulence 
of  an  aristocracy  of  petty  chiefs,  each  of  whom  is  implicitly  obeyed  by 
his  retainers.  Succession  goes  by  primogeniture,  but  the  insubordination 
of  brothers  greatly  tempers  the  rule.  It  is  the  custom  for  a  Zand  eh  to 
ask  his  chief  to  find  him  a  wife,  or  to  intercede  for  him,  ratlier,  with  the 
father  of  the  maid  he  has  courted.  In  most  savage  countries  a  man 
buys  his  wife  direct  from  the  father.  The  Zandeh  custom  suggests  that 
not  long  ago  their  nation  was  organised  for  war  like  the  Zulus,  who 
being  all  soldiers,  might  only  marry  by  permission  of  their  leader. 

Each  chief  or  dan  has  round  it  a  waste  or  forest  mark,  where  it 
hunts,  and  which  separates  it  from  the  next.  Sometimes  independent 
brothers  are  found  living  and  ruling  side  by  side  within  the  same 
belt  of  waste.  The  word  clan  is  perhaps  wrong ;  for  change  of  allegi- 
ance, and  taking  service  under  another  more  popular  chief  seem  to  be 
not  uncommon. 

The  chiefs  affect  no  state,  but  may  be  known  by  their  pride  of  mien. 
Schweinfurth  says  that  they  do  not  lead  their  retainers  in  battle ;  but 
they  alone  declare  war  and  peace  and  direct  the  campaign.     They  have 
power  of  life  and  death,  and  now  and  then  "  indulge  in  fits  of  Ciesarism," 
lest  the  fact  that  they  can  kill  without  giving  a  reason  should  be  for- 
gotten.   All  the  ivory  belongs  to  them,  and  half  the  carcass  of  elephants. 
They  recognised  Gessi's  and  Lupton's  authority  over  them,  by  asking 
for  protection,  by  making  large  gifts  of  ivory,  by  referring  disputes  to 
Dr.  Junker,  whom  they  treated  as  a  government  commit' 
agreeing  to  trade  ivory  only  with  government  agents,  aDi 
other  ways.    In  1883  most  of  the  country  north  of  the  Mak 
Kobe  and  Barusso  eastwards  was  in  fact  an  Egyptian  proteoi 

I  have  mentioned  examples  of  the  intestine  discords  of  tm 
and  of  the  struggles  of  brothers  for  independence,  or  leaden 
were  so  cruelly  fomented  by  the  slave-hunters.    Dr.  Junker'i 
*  According  to  Nachtigal's  Boron  mnn,  tee 


298 


BETWEEN  THE  NILE  AND  THE  CX)KGO: 


seems  to  stow  tliat  the}'  hail  had  their  Burfeit  of  civil  wars,  and  wished 
for  internal  peace  and  for  protection  under  a  strong  leader,  a  wish  which 
wonid  require  another  European  arbitrator  and  protector  like  Gessi 
or  Lupton  to  carry  out.  Khartum  traders  will  infallibly  fament  dis- 
sensions in  order  to  get  ivory  and  slaves,  for  this  is  their  invariable 
policy.  Whoever  can  prevent  this  and  organise  the  nation  ought  to 
l>e  ablo  to  stop  tho  whole  Bahr-^l-Gazal  slave  trade.  At  least  that 
was  Gordon's  plan  in  1B84. 

So  much  for  the  people :  let  us  return  to  the  rivers.  Where  does 
the  Makua  flow  to  ?  It  must  flow  either  to  Lake  Tsad  or  to  the  Congo ; 
that  ie  quite  clear,  I  dismiss  as  utterly  absurd  the  idea  maintained  by 
Stanley  in  his  book  on  the  Congo  that  it  is  the  Biyerre ;  and  I  cannot 
understand  how  such  an  authority  could  have  written  in  1885  two 
pages  of  argument  to  maintain  that  it  does,  for  upon  the  face  of  the 
facts  which  were  know^n  on  Bolindorfs  arrival  in  Europe,  and  which 
were  in  print  in  the  middle  of  1884,  the  hypothesis  is  untenable. 
Explorers  look  only  to  their  ow^n  discover}^ 

We  now  know,  thanks  to  explorations  made  in  December  1885 
or  February  1880  by  tho  missionary  Mr.  Grcnfell,  that  tho  Loika  is 
navigable  to  about  23"*  25'  E.,  2""  50'  N.,  that  the  rapids  he  stopped  at 
are  possibly  passable  at  high  water,  and  that  the  river  about  Christmas 
has  a  volume  of  some  30,000  cubic  feet  a  second.  We  also  know  of  the 
Mobangi,  up  which  he  went  100  miles  before  he  found  h©  was  not  in 
the  nuiin  Congo  (such  is  its  size  and  th©  sharp  angle  at  which  the 
two  streams  meet),  and  found  it  navigable  to  4^  27*  N.  at  lowest  water; 
and  we  know  also  that  tho  only  other  northern  tributary  of  the  Congo 
between  the  Mobangi  and  Aruwimi  is  the  Ngala,  near  Ban  gala,  which 
in  December  had  a  volume  of  about  25,000  cubic  feet  a  second.  The 
Xgala  has  since  been  navigated  in  time  of  flood  by  a  tiny  steam-launch 
to  about  Si^"^  N,  and  peihaps  21*  E.  It  and  its  bmnches  are  there  very 
small  streams,  barred  by  rapids  and  waterfalls,  in  a  hilly  and  rocky 
country.  Its  sources  in  these  hills  defines  the  watershed  of  tho  Makua* 
Grenfell  searched  carefully  for  other  northern  tributaries  and  found  none. 

The  French,  in  January  1886,  navigated  tho  Sekoli-Bonga,  another 
largo  Congo  tributary,  parallel  to  the  Mobangi,  and  only  00  miles 
further  west,  which  in  October  had  a  volume  of  about  40,000  cubic  feet 
a  second.  All  these  estimates  of  volume  are  by  Mr.  Grenfell.  Tho 
Mobangi  is  by  far  the  biggest  of  these  northern  tributaries,  not  excepting 
the  Biyerre ;  *  the  Makua  must  be  the  Mobangi,  or  eke  must  go  to  Lake 
Tsad  :  that  is  quite  clear. 

[Note.— 'The  following  argumentative  paragraphs  were  not  read  at 
tho  meeting.     They  meet  Mr,  Kavenstein*8  arguments.] 

Now  the  Lake  Tsad  streams  wore  explored  by  Barth  and  Xachtigal. 
They  are  two,  the  Shari  and  the  river  of  Logon.  The  latter  ia 
♦  St!ioley*8  '*  Aruwtmi," 


■ 


DR.  JUNKER  AND  THE  (WELLE)  MAKUA. 


m 


fordable  in  March  (at  Logon"),  and  is  there  about  two- thirds  the  size  of 
the  Sbari.  The  Shari  in  March  has  been  described  by  Barth  bm 
G0€  yards  wide,  quite  shallow  for  two-thirds  that  width,  and  15  feet  at 
deepest*  The  cnrrent  in  the  deep-water  channel  ran  two  to  three  miles 
an  hoer,  and  over  the  shallows  of  course  much  less.  Say  cnirent 
2 J  miles  an  honr  throughout,  and  average  depth  for  200  yards  13  feet 
and  for  the  rest  three  feet  (a  veiy  liberal  interpretation),  and  yon  have 
42,000  cubic  feet  a  second.  Barth  says  the  year  was  a  very  rainy  one. 
Kachtigal  travelled  along  the  Sliari  for  many  days  above  Earth's  point 
in  March,  and  says  it  is  330  to  450  yards  wide,  fordablo  half-way 
across,  and  for  a  third  part  beyond  (i.  e*  for  a  third  of  its  width),  10  to 
15  feet  deep;  current  two  miles  an  hour.  If  the  remaining  sixth  part 
is  the  slope  down  from  the  edge  to  the  10  foot  depth,  and  if  the  fordable 
half  averages  three  feet,  this  gives  20,000  to  28,000  cubic  feet  a  second. 

But  then  the  Shari  splits  into  four  streams,  which  flow  from  east  to 
west  Both  in  Bagirmi  and  Wadai,  Kaclitigal  found  they  were  well 
known  and  that  there  was  no  other.  He  took  into  his  service  an  intel- 
ligent and  reliable  man,  who  had  crossed  them  all  in  the  dry  season, 
though  apparently  not  at  the  driest.  The  Aukadebbe,  which  joins  in 
lat.  lU""  (Nachtigal  went  beyond  its  mouth  to  lat.  9}^^  on  the  west  side  of 
the  Shari),  and  the  White  and  Blue  rivers,  which  join  below  lat.  9^, 
have  together  about  as  much  water,  or  more,  than  the  fourth  or  main 
stream,  the  Ardhe.  One  was  80  yards  by  three  feet,  the  second  200  or 
300  yards  by  4  feet,  the  third  100  or  150  yards,  but  not  fordable,  and 
the  currents  of  all  three  were  nothing  particular.  The  Ardhe  was 
300  *  yards  wide  and  fordable,  but  it  had  a  current  which  made  fording 
rather  diflScult,  Kow  a  four  mile  an  hour  current  three  feet  deep,  or 
a  three  mile  an  hour  current  four  feet  deep,  is  pretty  bad  to  crosg,  and 
the  former  at  four  or  the  latter  at  five  feet  would  lift  one  off  one's 
lega.  These  depths  and  ctirrents  if  maintained  right  across  the  river 
give  (which  could  hardly  be)  from  17,000  to  30,000  cubic  feet  a  second. 
This  crossing  was  not  said  to  be  at  the  lowest  season. 

Evidently  this  fordable  Ardhe  is  not  the  Makua.  Roughly  speaking, 
it  is  about  half  tho  Shari,  which  is  perhaps  at  very  most  40,000  (in  a 
wet  year),  but  more  likely  some  25,000  cubic  feet  a  second  in  a  usual 
dry  season*  The  Makua  in  long.  28®  near  Munza^s  has  10,000  cubic  feet 
of  water  a  second,  and  at  Ali  Kobo  is  six  miles  wide  iu  the  dry  season. 

But  suppose  the  Ardhe  was  tho  Euta-Makua.  The  Kuta-Makna 
certainly  at  long.  22^  drains  at  least  120,000  square  miles  of  country 
for  its  watersheds  are  known.     Where  would  the  other  half  of  the  Sha: 

*  This  Ib  naiive  informatioD*     Tlie  man  did  not  miosiire  widths^  btit  compared  it 
&  river  bed  before  Ibeir  eyea  which  Naclitifftil  promptly  raeuriiiied.     Had  ho  been 
LoDdoner  his  estimate  would  be  nearly  worthless,  but  a  blave-lmtitor,  who»o  biisinc 
ii  to  cross  mtmy  rivera,  looks  twice  at  tliem  and  wilh  a  pmctiscd  eye.      An  «• 
ki^owa  a  bowshot ;  ft  mountaineer  the  height  of  a  snow-slope,  and  Urn  tiuiF 
a  Chinese  tailor  will  eye  hia  ctiatomer  and  then  fit  hiiu  perfectly  without 

No,  V,— Mat  1887.] 


300 


BETWEEN  THE  NILE  AND  THE  CX)NGO: 


(the  three  northern  gtrcaius)  find  a  proportiooate  drainage  area?  Indeed 
they  wonld  require  a  far  bigger  one,  for  they  rnn  in  latitudes  where  the 
dry  seaBon  is  very  dry  indeed.  Where  woidJ  the  Logon  find  ita  pro- 
portionate area?  And  where  wonld  the  Mohan gi  find  a  basin  three 
or  four  times  as  big  as  that  of  the  Kuta-I^Iakua-Ardhe  ?  Grenfoll 
was  at  4^  27'  N.  on  the  Mohan gi  in  its  very  lowest  season,  at  the  end  of 
Febrnary :  at  the  season  when  the  Knta  and  Makua  too  are  at  their 
loweet.  The  river  was  640  yards  across^  of  25  feet  average  depth,  and 
had  a  current  of  one  to  two  miles  an  hour :  say  a  current  of  1^  miles  an 
hour,  and  its  volume  is  75,000  cubic  feet  a  second,  which  is  three-quarters 
of  what  all  the  other  northern  tributaries  of  the  Congo  below  the 
Amwimi  put  together  contribute  in  November  and  December,  and  two- 
thirds  of  what  the  united  Kasai-Sankuru  gives  (120,000  cubic  feet  a 
second)  *  in  June  (a  month  perhaps  from  its  lowest).  An  area  of 
180,000  square  miles  is  drained  by  the  Kasai-Sankuru.  The  Euta- 
Makna  drains  two-thirds  as  much,  and  presumably  has  two-thinls  of  its 
volume,  which  is  just  the  volume  apparently  discharged  by  the  Mobangi. 

Again,  Nachtigal  had  another  informant,  a  trader  from  Bomn, 
who  had  gone  south  across  the  Aukadebbe  and  White  rivers,  which  rise, 
he  says,  much  further  east  (in  the  hilly  Nile  watershed  tc^ward  Hofrat 
el  Kahas),  and  no  doubt  are  the  streams  which  Potagoe  had  pointed  out 
to  him  from  his  mountain  point  of  view  near  the  junction  of  the  Sbari, 
Nile,  and  Kuta  basins.  Beyond  these  rivers,  and  fifty  miles  beyond  the 
springs  of  the  Blue  river  (which  lio  in  a  hilly  country),  the  Bomu  man 
passed  through  Foro  (Lupton'a  Foro),  cIobq  to  w^hich  also,  in  a  hilly 
country,  were  the  springs  of  the  Ardhej  a  river  which  he  knew  all  about; 
and  100  miles  beyond  Foro,  he  reached  the  Kuta,  which  be  said  was  a 
river  bigger  than  the  Shari  itself,  which  certainly  did  not  run  into  it, 
flowing  west,  and  full  of  inhabited  islands,  some  of  them  rocky.  He 
gives  other  names  besides  Foro,  which  Lupton  identifies.  He  spoke  the 
Banda  language,  and  said  it  was  spoken  from  lat.  9°  N,  to  the  Kuta,  and  he 
gave  examples  to  show  Nachtigal  that  all  its  dialects  are  mere  dialects 
and  nothing  else*  This  uniformity  of  language  of  course  facilitates  the 
spread  of  good  information.  His  distances  as  mapped  by  Nachtigal 
are  bo  correct  that  the  Kuta  so  mapped  (though  Nachtigal  hims-elf  was 
nearly  400  miles  from  it  in  Wadai)  is  only  forty  or  fifty  miles  further 
south  than  Lupton  found  it  to  be* 

Nachtigal  consequently  did  not  pretend  that  thisKuti  could  flow  into 
the  Ardhe,  but  threw  out  a  suggestion  that  it  may  flow  into  the 
Logon  (the  Congo  then  was  unknown).  But  this  cannot  be,  for  the 
Ardhe,  according  to  the  other  informant's  distances,  lies  only  120  mUes 
from  Grenfell's  furthest  on  the  Mobangi,  The  Kuta-Makua  would 
have  to  make  a  tremendous  sweep  to  get  round  it  to  the  Logon  (which, 
as  stated,  is  a  fordable  stream  two-thirds  the  ei^e  of  the  Shari  in  the  dry 
*  By  an  eitimtite  moTQ  core  fill  than  anj  of  the  othen  gi?cLi  above. 


* 


DR.  JUNK£R  AND  TH£  (W£LL£)  MAKUA.  301 

seaflon,  not  capable  of  receiving  a  fifth  part  of  their  waters)  and  would 
alzDDfit  run  into  the  Mobangi  on  the  way. 

The  fact  of  the  Logon  swelling,  so  as  to  equal  or  even  exceed  the 
Shari  in  the  rains,  is  easily  accounted  for  by  its  position :  its  basin  lies 
where  the  summer  rainfall  must  be  drawn  from  the  Atlantic,  and  may 
reach  farther  south  than  the  Ardhe. 

The  reported  connection  between  the  Shari  (Ardhe)  and  Logon, 
which,  if  true,  makes  Bagirmi  an  island,  is  immaterial.  Frimdfade  it 
is  not  likely,  and  Nachtigal  himself  says  he  is  inclined  to  disbelieve 
it ;  its  existence  is  negatived  by  the  unequal  rise  and  fall  of  the  two 
rivers.  As  in  the  dry  season  it  is  said  hardly  to  flow  at  all,  it  hardly 
alEeots  my  argument. 

The  origin  of  the  idea  that  the  Makua  flows  to  the  Shari  is  found  in 
the  tale  told  to  Sohweinfurth  in  Monbuttu,  that  it  flowed  to  a  big  water 
wher^  the  people  prayed  like  the  Arabs,  and  had  white  clothes  like 
theirs.  I  explain  this  tale  by  another  whose  truth  is  immaterial  as  long 
as  we  suppose  it  to  have  been  repeated  for  true.  Bafai,  in  1877,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Mbomo,  told  Pdtagos  that  beyond  the  Shinko  was  a  river 
Sebanga,  running  south  to  th6  Mbomo  (the  Enji  we  may  suppose),  and 
beyond  it  another  which  bifurcated,  one  part  going  to  the  Shari,  and  the 
other  to  the  Mbomo  (Kuta).  Bafai  also  told  him  that  Zebehr  had  a  few 
years  before  descended  the  Tsigo  (Shinko?)  in  a  canoe  to  the  Mbomo, 
and  from  the  Mbomo  had  ascended  the  Sebanga  *  and  had  learnt  of 
this  other  peculiar  river.  Potagos  adds  that  he  asked  Zebehr  about  this 
afterwards,  who  assured  him  that  this  was  so.  If  Zebehr  and  Bafai 
believed  such  a  tale  it  would  also  reach  Munza's  through  the  Arabs. 

Li  face  of  the  known  positions  of  the  Makua  and  Mobangi  it  is 
scarcely  necessary  to  weigh  the  Shari  hypothesis  any  more.  Before  the 
discovery  of  the  Mobangi  was  made  it  was  scarcely  tenable. 

The  matter  is  now  one  of  practical  importance.  The  Mobangi  is 
known  to  be  a  waterway  hardly  inferior  to  the  main  Congo  for  practical 
purposes :  deep ;  never  less  than  600  yards  wide,  even  in  February,  when 
the  Euta-Makua  certainly  (and  it  too  apparently)  is  at  its  lowest  level ; 
and  navigable  at  all  times  from  Stanley  Pool  650  miles  thence  straight 
N.N.E.  to  lat.  4°  20'  N.  beyond  the  limit  which  the  Congo  State,  by 
private  treaty  with  Germany,  has  placed  to  its  future  "  sphere  of  opera- 
tions," and  beyond  the  limits  which  the  French  will  probably  occupy  if 
they  win  in  their  dispute  with  the  Congo  State  as  to  which  of  the  two 
shall  not  operate  in  the  Mobangi  basin.  It  is  then  found  to  turn  sharply 
to  the  east,  flowing  from  the  east  through  a  gap  it  has  cut  in  a  line 
of  quartz  and  red  clay  hills  1000  feet  high,  hills   which  may  be  a 

•  The  souroes  of  this  Sebanga  were  pointed  out  to  Potagos  on  the  mountain  in  the 
Shari  basin,  where  he  had  such  an  extensive  view.  It  is  probably  the  EnjL  All  tiiat 
we  know  of  the  chances  of  such  a  bifurcation  is  that  the  lower  Ardhe  runs  in  a  wide  flat 
country,  where  there  were  no  mountains  to  be  seen  to  the  south. 

z  2 


302 


BETWEEN  THE  NILE  AND  THE  CONGO  j 


eon  tin  11  at  ion  of  tlie  billy  watershed  between  tho  Makiia  at  Ali  Kobo 
arid  the  sources  of  the  Ngala,  Tho  gap  is  narrow,  and  big  rocks  rise 
in  mid-stream;  at  bigli  water  it  is  diilctilt  to  pass;  but  at  Ljw  water, 
after  reconnoitring,  Mr.  Grenfell  got  the  Peace  through  easily,  in 
February.  Where  wo  know  the  Kuta-Makua  next,  they  are  placid  and 
colossal ;  the  Shinko  at  Marra  is  still  90  yards  wide,  20  to  3J>  feet  deep 
in  Octtjber,  and  only  1980  feet  above  the  sea.  Stanley  Pool  i&  now  said 
to  be  916  feet  above  the  sea  ;  *  but  Mr.  Grenfell,  who  is  more  likely  to 
be  righf,  makes  it  only  800  feet.  Equator  Station  at  Mobangi  mouth  is 
130  feet,  and  Grenfell's  furthest  just  500  feet  higher— eay  1300  feet 
Therefore  more  rapids  on  the  Mobangi-Kuta  may  be  expected. 

The  river  strikes  at  the  very  roots  of  the  slave  trade,  and  renders  its 
suppression  easy  by  commercial  and  peaceful  means*  Take  away  the 
ivory,  turn  a  lucrative  trade  from  Khartum  to  the  Congo,  and  the  great 
kicentive  to  slave-hunting  and  slave  wars  is  gone;  philanthropy  is 
cheap,  fur  the  profits  will  be  enormous.  Ivory  is  now  worth  in  London 
twenty  to  twenty-five  times  the  cost  of  its  transport  from  Stanley  Pool 
to  here,  the  remaining  900^  or  so  a  ton  will  pay  for  river  steam ers, 
trading  stations,  and  the  rest.  Lupton  carried  his  ivory  from  sonth  and 
south- west  of  the  Makna,  and  almost  all  of  it  from  the  Congo  side  of 
the  watershed  overland  to  Meshra.  He  claimed  to  show  a  net  profit 
through  this  trade  of  60,000?.,  reckoning  the  whole  cost  of  his  prorince 
as  part  of  the  expenses. 

What  Gordon  proposed  to  do  when  writing  as  Governor  of  the 
Tnngo  to  Stanley,  iu  January  1884,  can  be  done  now.  **If  we  act  in 
the  countries  where  tiie  slave-traders  hunt  and  make  treaties  with  the 
cbiefs,  we  can  prevent  their  raids  and  trulj^  stop  the  slave  trade."  f 

We  have  not  heard  the  hist  of  the  negro  Sudan  or  of  the  way  thither, 
A  way  lies  through  the  country  of  the  Zandehs  the  loyal  subjects  of 
Ges^i  Paslia  and  Lupton  Bey,  up  the  two  rivers  Dr.  Junker  has  traced 
to  their  confluence. 

After  thepflper. 

Sir  FaAKcis  de  Wiston  considered  that  the  Society  was  much  indebted  to 
Mr,  Wills  for  his  paiier,  which  was  really  a  fiistory  of  the  exploration  of  Central 

•  280  metres.    Mr.  "Wautere  haj?  juat  accepted  this  figure. 

t  These  blocks  are  l)t*coming  llie  Jnnksanefl  or  ftLimelakea  of  the  Sudim,  juat  as 
Gordon  prophesied  they  would.  "  My  heliof  is,"  he  wrote,  **  that  thid  Mobdi  business 
will  be  the  end  of  bkvf^ry  in  the  fciudun.  The  Amha  havo  inranahly  put  their  Bhi¥C8 
ill  tlie  front  and  araaetl  thera  (with  rifles);  the  slaves  have  seen  tlmt  tluy  were  plucky 
while  their  msiateri^  isbifltiid.  U  it  likel3'  that  they  will  ever  yjehl  obedience  to  their 
masters  na  heretofore  ? ''  The  lii?it  Blue  Book  id  an  inatnictive  commeuUiry  upou  this. 
Upon  a  promise  of  B>  dtillar:*  u  hfnid  to  ta^^h  hlaek  who  should  come  down  to  I'^gypt 
deaertions  hnve  he^im  fjeely^aii'l  the  wuiild-be-eoDqiieiror  of  Assouon,  Wnhi(l-ei-Njoiirai, 
|<nd  to  stop  and  try  to  dimrm  Ibe  eiily  drilled  trtwp»  or  decent  riflenieri  that  he  hud  in 
h'lA  army.  [Sinec  this  was  writ! en  Njounii  ims  btxn  beaten  by  thr  loyaliata  and  the 
Klinrttun  Khahf  bus  been  Imnskrring  hU  siigeiuil  to  the  swampy  isluud  at  Khartum 
fuj  fcDX  of  a  loyalist  coalition.] 


PR.  JDKKEU  AND  THE  (WELLEJ  MAKUA,— DISCL'SStON. 


303 


kirica^  and  will  prove  very  useful  to  students  of  that  region,  giving,  as  it  did, 

succinct   account  of  what   Imd    taken    ptnce  tliere  during   the  i^ast  ten  years. 

The  question  which  most  interested  him  was  whetlit-r  the  Congo  would  in  future  be 

the  route  to  the  dislrict(  and  whether  the  Mobangi  would  prove  navifiable  up  t© 

Kibali.     Mr-  Wills  had  omitted  to  mention  that  Greofell  in  comin<^  down  ran  on 

ETOcks,  and  very  nearly  gank  his  vessel,  the  Peace,  which  only  drew  18  inches  of 

]  water.     It  was  a  general  characteristic  of  a  1  those  rivers  to  have  rapids  where  the 

[navigation  became  very  dangerous.     Therefore  until   it  was  known   whether  its 

eourse  was  navigable  it  would  not  be  safe  to  prophesy  whether  the  Mobangi  (or 

Welle)  would  or  would  not  become  the  great  highway  in  the  future*     He  hud  been 

cynnected  with  the  Emin  expedition,  because  of  his  friondiship  with   Mr.  Stanley^ 

The  expe^iition  arrived  at  the  Cape  on  the  10th  March,  and  reached  the  mouth  of 

the  Congo  on  the  18th,  one  day  ahead  of  the  calculated  time,  without  any  hitch  or 

misadventure.     He  ha^l  juHt  received  a  telegram  from  Sir  Frederic  Goltlsmiti,  the 

Presiilent  of  the  West  African  Telegraph  Company,  stating  tliat  the  Mudma  arrived 

all  well  with  a  party  of  796  all  told.     Mr.  Stanley's  party  numbered  638.     All  the 

Europeans  were  well  an4  in  excellent  spirits,     Tip|X)o  Tib  was  with  them,  in  order 

that  they  might  get  as  much  information  aa  possible  out  of  him  with  regard  to  the 

country  which  it  was  projjosed  to  cross.     The  exp<idition  were  about  to  enter  into  the 

terrifcofy  of  the  Congo  Free  State,  and  the  Committee  were  sure  that  the  King  of  the 

■  Belgians  and  hia  officers  serving  there,  would  do  all  in  their  power  to  forward  the 

party  on  at  the  most  rapid  rate  possible.     Of  coarse,  calculations  made  abont  travel 

in  Central  Africa  were  subject  to  variations,  but  it  was  hoped  and  belie  vet!  that 

Mr,  Stanley  would  arrive  at  Stanley  Falls  and  cross  the  350  miles  to  Wadclni  by 

the  middle  or  end  of  Jnly.     The  messengers  despatched  from  Zanzibar  would  no 

doubt,  carry  to  Emio  Fasha  the  tidings  of  the  relief  that  was  being  sent,  and  that 

would  keep  his  soldiers  in  good  heart.     It  might  be  thought  that  the  route  from 

Zanzibar  was   very  much  shorter  than   the  Con;zo   route,   but  from  Wadtlai   te 

Zanzibar  would  Deceasitate  a  land  journey  of  over  100  days.     ITiat  was  the  oidoion 

of  Mr,  Stanley  and  Colonel  Grant,  both  of  wh<jm  had   had  great  experience  in 

African  travel  j  but  by  the  Congo  route  the  land  journey  could  be  accompliahtd  in 

about  fifty  days.     Among  Emiu's  party  there  were  many  women  and  children, 

with  whom  an  overland  Journey  of  100  days  would  be  a  very  ditlicult  task.     It 

was  also  known  that  when  once  a  road  was  opened  in  Africa  by  a  white  m tin  it 

became  known  as  a  white  man^a  road,  and  if  the  territory  described  by  Mr.  Wills 

were  once  traversed  by  Europeans  a  great  blow  would  be  tstruck  at  the  heart  of  the 

slave  trade. 

Mr.  Ravenstein  said  that  Dr.  Junker's  work  was  among  the  very  best  lliat 
had  been  done  in  Africa.  To  him  and'  Schwelnfurth  we  owed  nearly  all  we  know 
about  the  countries  lying  to  the  west  of  the  Upper  Nile,  He  had  found  no  difBciilty 
in  adjusting  the  work  of  these  explorers  to  the  latitudes  observed  by  Mr.  Lupton. 
Still,  the  map  of  that  part  of  the  country  rested  upon  very  unsatisfactory  data, 
if  cither  the  Meahra  er  Rek,  and  a  point  on  the  Upper  Veyi,  had  been  determined 
with  ftocuracy.  As  to  the  latitude  of  the  former,  Luptou  and  Pctherick  dilTered  to 
the  extent  of  ten  miles,  whilst  Marno*a  and  Petherick's  observations  in  the  south 
were  quite  irreconcilable  with  each  other.  For  the  longitudes  of  these  places  wo 
still  had  to  trust  to  very  unsatisfactory  itineraries.  We  ought  not  too  readily  to 
accept  the  positions  inserted  upon  Dr.  Junker's  most  recent  map,  for  a  survey  of  a 
winding  river,  unchecked  by  observations  for  latitude,  or  facilitated  by  prominent 
landmarks,  was  a  task  not  very  easy  of  accomplishment.  He  trusted  that  Mr. 
Stanley's  nilief  expedition  would  bring  home  a  few  points  fixed  with  great  care.  H« 
supposed  that  after  Dr.  Junker's  most  recent  statements  they  roust  ftccept  it  as  a 


304 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


fact  tbat  the  Welle-ilakiia  found  its  way  into  the  Mobaogl.  Still,  he  could  not 
help  thirxkic^  that  with  the  facta  until  quite  recently  before  them,  as  good  a  case 
might  have  been  made  out  in  fayoiir  of  the  Shari  as  of  that  tributary  of  the  Congo. 
Dr.  Schweinfurth  told  them  that  the  Welle  begins  to  rise  about  the  middle  of  April, 
whilst  the  lower  Shari  first  rose  Benaihly  in  June,  and  waa  highest  in  September  and 
the  begianiDg  of  October.  The  discharge  of  the  Welle  was  estimated  by  Schweiofurth 
at  iOfiOO  cubic  feet  a  second  when  in  flood,  whilfit  the  Shari,  according  to  Nachtigal, 
discharges  64y(X>0  feet  in  springs  when  it  is  lon\  Assume  a  rise  of  twelve  feet,  and 
the  discharge  would  be  nearly  200,000  cubic  feet.  We  knew  little  about  the  way 
in  ^vhich  the  Shari  conducted  itself  on  its  way  to  Lake  Tsad-  There  might  be  a  sort 
of  half-way  house,  he  meant  a  lake,  from  which  it  Issued  with  reduced  volume.  It 
was  known,  however,  that  the  ri?er  turned  B|K?ndthrift  en  approachiog  the  lake,  and 
instead  of  going  along  decently,  it  sent  one  branch  to  the  right,  another  to  the  left, 
and  even  parted  wnth  some  of  itg  water  to  the  Benne,  This,  at  all  events,  was 
asserted  by  Br,  Yogel  to  be  the  case.  As  to  the  Mobangi,  it  appeared  to  differ 
considerably  according  to  the  seasons.  Where  Grenfell  passed  with  ease.  Captain 
Ruuvier  failed  to  make  any  progress.  The  Shari,  notwithstanding  its  vagaries,  was 
a  considerable  river  all  the  year  through,  and  kept  Lake  Tsad,  whose  water-level 
might  fairly  bo  estimated  at  10,000  square  miles,  pretty  well  up  to  its  level,  even 
causing  it  occasionally  to  overflow  through  the  Bahr  el  GazaL  If  we  assumed  the 
annual  rainfall  over  the  Tsad  to  amount  to  36  iochea  a  year,  and  the  evaporation 
to  120  inches,  then  that  lake  won  Id  require  an  annual  supply  of  two  million  miUiona 
of  cubic  feut  to  maintain  its  level,  and  this  the  Sliari  alone  contributed  at  the  rate  of 
63,570  cubic  feet  a  second.  Unfortunately,  in  all  these  speculations  we  dealt  with 
assumptions  and  not  with  facta,  for  the  volume  of  none  of  the  rivers  in  question 
had  ever  been  accurately  ascertained  even  for  a  BiDgle  day.  The  basin  of  the  Tfiad, 
which  covered  an  area  of  550,000  square  miles,  of  which  246,000  were  unproductive, 
yielding  no  rain,  was  deserving  of  being  exjdored,  and  he  hoped  that  the  Royal 
Niger  Company  would  make  it  their  business  to  settle  the  various  problemB  still 
awaiting  solution. 


GEOGKAPHICAL  NOTES, 


I 


Dr.  Jimker, — The  distinguislied  Afiican  explorer,  Dr.  Wm.  Junker,  will 
arrive  in  London  in  a  fow  days,  and  it  is  expected  that  ho  will  read  a 
paper  at  the  Society'H  meeting  on  the  9th  inst.  The  preliminary  sketch- 
map  given  in  the  present  number,  in  illustration  of  Mr.  Wills's  paper, 
shows  the  substance  and  the  extent  of  Br.  Junker's  discoveries.  Since 
the  end  of  1883,  Dr.  Junker  has  been  with  Emin  Bey,  shut  up  in  the 
Equatorial  Province  on  the  Upper  Kile,  and  only  last  year  euoceeded  in 
negotiating  a  passage  through  Dganda,  and  bo  reached  Zanzibar  about 
Christmas,  Dr.  Junker's  travels  in  the  Sudan  and  Central  Africa  have 
lasted  from  the  spring  of  1876  to  the  end  of  1886,  with  the  exception  of 
about  a  year  and  a  half  in  1878-80*  In  his  first  journey  he  found  the 
sources  of  the  Wollo  Makua  near  Lake  Albert  Nyanza,  but  Suleiman's 
rebellion  and  his  own  ill-health  prevented  further  exploration  to  the 
west.  In  1880-83  he  explored  the  basin  of  tho  Makua  and  Kuta, 
(Upper  Mobangi),  travelling  without  any  armed  escort,  and  known 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  305 

ihe  Paaha's  (Gessi's)  "brother.     The  news  of  the  capture  of  Rumbek  by 
the  rebels  in  the  end  of  1883  made  him  retire  upon  Lado  to  Emin  Bey. 

A  new  Expedition  to  the  Owen  Stanley  Bange,  New  Guinea.— The 
Gkrverhment  of  Victoria  are  preparing  to  send  out  a  well-equipped 
expedition  to  explore  the  Owen  Stanley  range  from  Port  Moresby,  and 
have  offered  the  leadership  to  the  man  of  all  others  best  able  to  carry 
so  difficult  an  undertaking  to  a  successful  issue,  namel}',  the  Bev.  J. 
Chalmers.  A  grant  of  2000^  has  been  made  towards  the  cost  of  the 
expedition,  and  further  oontributions  are  expected. 

Climate  of  Blant3rre,  South  Central  Africa. — We  have  received  copies 
ef  a  brief  report  of  meteorological  observations,  taken  during  the  year 
1886  (with  instruments  lent  by  our  Society)  by  Dr.  Milne,  of  the 
Scottish  Missionary  Station  at  Blantyre,  which  supply  information 
regarding  the  interesting  subject  of  local  climate  in  Central  Africa, 
otherwise  so  difficult  to  obtain.  Blant3rre  is  situated  on  the  highlands 
between  the  river  Shir6  and  Lake  Shirwa,  in  S.  lat.  15°  47'  30"  and 
K  long.  85°  3'  54",  at  an  altitude  of  3320  feet  above  the  sea-level.  The 
obaervations  show  the  mean  temperature  of  the  year  to  be  64*8°  Fahr., 
the  hottest  months  being  October,  November,  and  December  (respectively 
74-2°,  73-9°,  and  73-1°);  the  coldest,  June  and  July  (60-9°  and  58-2°); 
the  mean  daily  range  showing  a  maximum  of  21 '8  (August),  and  a 
minimum  of  10*4°  (March).  The  total  rainfall  of  the  year  was  55*78 
inches,  and  rain  fell  on  109  days.  The  greatest  daily  rainfall  was  2*35 
inohes,  in  January.  The  rainfall  for  1882  was  50*84  inches,  and  for 
1882,  62*72  inches.  The  prevailing  winds  are  easterly — south  of  east 
in  March  and  July,  north  of  east  during  the  rest  of  the  year.  Westerly 
winds,  north  of  west  from  October  to  March,  and  south  of  west  in 
January  and  February,  include  only  64  out  of  an  annual  total  of  730 
observations ;  they  nearly  always  bring  rain,  although  the  greater  pro- 
portion of  the  rain  comes  from  an  easterly  direction.  The  mean 
monthly  range  of  the  barometer  was  *23  inch;  the  mean  daily  range 
•44  inch. 

Captain  Casati. — The  two  couriers  which  the  Milan  Society  for 
Commercial  Exploration  in  Africa  and  the  Italian  Geogmphical  Society 
have  united  in  sending  out  for  the  relief  of  their  compatriot,  are 
announced  as  having  started  on  the  9th  March  for  Unyoro.  They  are 
travelling  under  the  powerful  protection  of  Tippo  Tip,  and  carry  very 
little  baggage.  They  are  further  provided  with  letters  of  credit  to  all 
the  mission  and  commercial  stations  along  the  route,  so  that  Casati,  on 
his  return  in  their  company,  will  not  be  without  the  necessary  means. 
It  is  expected  that  the  return  journey  will  have  been  completed  in  less 
than  nine  months'  time.  These  messengers  will  be  able  to  commtmicate 
to  Emin  Bey  the  news  of  Stanley's  expedition  for  his  relief. — The 
latest  news  (23rd  January)  from  Uganda  announces  the  safe  arrival 


30S 


GEOGRAPHICAL  KOTES. 


at  its  ileetination   and   return   to   Uganda  of  the  caravan  which  Dr. 
Jtmker  equipped  and  despatched  to  Eiuin  Bey  in  August  1886, 

The  Mungala  River  (Ceatral  Africa). — A  very  brief  account  of  a 
journey  made  by  the  Belgian  Lieutenant  Baert  on  this  river  is  published 
in  the  *  Monvement  Geographique*  (1887,  No.  5).  The  Mungala  is  one  of 
the  northern  tributaries  of  the  Congo,  and  ie  described  as  unimportant 
by  Greufell,  who  howe%*er  did  nut  navigate  it  for  any  great  distance. 
Lieutenant  Baert  a^icended  the  river  fur  220  miles,  reaching  a  point  in 
8""  30'  N.  lat,  and  22^  E,  long.,  which  is  supposed  to  be  very  near 
Dr.  Junker's  most  westerly  point.  Here  he  was  debarred  from  fm-ther 
progress  by  the  rapids.  It  is  certain,  however,  that  the  Mungala  is  not 
identical  with  the  Welle»  because  Lieutenant  Baert  found  the  breadth 
of  the  former  to  be  only  about  11  yards»  and  its  greatest  depth  5  feet, 
whereas  the  breadth  of  tbe  Welle  at  Ali*Kobo  in  Baasange  Land  is  bo 
great  that  Dn  Junker  oonld  not  determine  it, 

A  TiBit  to  Sokoto. — The  *  Mittheilungon  *  of  the  German- African  Abbo- 
oiation,  and  the  '  Verbandlungen '  of  the  Berlin  Geographical  Society, 
publish  further  reports  of  the  visit  to  Sokoto  of  Messrs,  Standinger  and 
flartert,  members  of  the  expedition  of  the  late  Mr.  Flegel.  Starling 
from  Loko  on  the  Benue  on  August  12tb,  1885,  the  travellers  arrived  on 
the  fourth  day  at  Anasiirawa,  the  residence  of  a  king  subject  to  the  chief 
of  Zaria.  His  palace  is  enclosed  within  a  lofty  battlemented  mud-wall, 
and  is  an  imposing  structure.  The  interior,  however,  is  disappointing. 
Two  days  afterwards  they  reached  Kefi-Abd-es-Songa,  one  of  the  moat 
important  parts  of  the  Haiissa  empire,  where  European  merchandise  is 
exchanged  for  ivory*  I'hey  found  tho  market  well  supplied  with 
provisions  and  native  manufactureB,  including  leather  wares,  pottery, 
cutlery,  and  textiles,  as  also  with  slaves.  Passing  Gitata,  grotesquely 
perched  on  a  rock  and  the  beautiful  Panda  valley,  tbey  crossed,  on 
September  7th,  a  lofty  range  of  granitic  mountains,  and  arrived  two  days 
afterwards  at  Kashia,  a  flourishing  Fulbe  settlement.  After  a  delay  of 
eleven  days  they  were  permitted  to  proceed  to  Zaria,  which  had 
previously  been  visittd  only  by  Clappertcm  and  Vogel.  The  town 
covers  a  large  area,  but  is  thinly  peopled.  It  is  enclosed  by  a  lofty  wall, 
pierced  by  numerous  gates,  at  every  one  of  which  stands  a  tax-collector, 
who  levies  a  toll  in  cowries  upon  all  persons  attending  the  market 
The  market  was  well  attended,  and  plentifully  supplied  wdth  cattle, 
aa^B,  sheep,  goats,  horses,  and  slaves.  The  native  nianufacturea 
exhibited  mucli  taste,  but  were  dearer  than  EuroiK^an.  The  delay 
which  occurred  here  was  availed  of  to  pay  a  flying  visit  to  Kano*  After 
their  return  they  left  for  the  camp  of  the  Sultan  of  Sokoto,  who  had 
taken  up  his  quarters  within  a  day's  journey  of  Kaura,  tb 
Zamfara,  and  was  engaged  collecting  tribute  from  the 
kings  and  towns*    The  suUan  granted  them  an  audie*^ 


4 


1 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


S07 


received  tlie  presents  which  had  been  sent  him  bj  the  Gorman  Emperor, 

^nd  which  consisted  of  lifteen  needle  gnns,  cavalry  ewoTds  and  sabres, 

:mirrora,  ivory  carvings,  bmct^lets,  etiiffa  and  jewellery*     He  assured  his 

^nsitor  that  his  *'  Emiiire  was  open  to  all  traders  ;  that  ground  would  be 

oeded  for  buildiog  factories,  and  that  not  an  inch  of  land  had  been 

surrendered,  nor  a  monopoly  granted  to  the  English  "     Previonsly  to 

letuming  to  Loko  the   Gernifin   envoys   visited   Sokoto   (where   thoy 

arrived  on  January  12th»  1880),  Gandti,  and  Wumu,  where  the  Sultan 

presented  thera  with  a  reply  to  the  Emperor's  letter,  and  with  a  bill  for 

a  million  cowries  drawTi  upon  the  King  of  Zaria,  who  commuted  the 

puyment  by  the  gift  of  a  horse*     Leaving  Wurnu  on  February  20th, 

they  were  back  at  Loko  on  April  20th.     The  accuunt  is  accompanied  by 

^  valuable  map, 

MM.  Capus  and  Bonvalot  in  Central  Aiia,— Furtlicr  news*  of  these 

^X^vellers  hfis  reachetl  the  Geographical    Society  of  Paris  in  a  letter 

"Hrritten from  Margilan  (Ferghana)  ^shich  relates  their  movements  down 

^O  23rd  February  last.     Their  stay  at  Samarkand,  after  unauccessfully 

^^'ttempting  to  enter  Afghanistan,  was  not  of  long  duration.     They  had 

'i^cided  to  return  to  France  by  way  of  Karchi,  Kerki  and  the  Turkoman 

'insert  on  the  Afghan  frontier,  w^hen,  hearing  that  caravans  in  winter 

^:x*eqnently  travel  from  Kashgar  to  Leh  (Ladik),  they  determined  tti  try 

^'tliis  route  to  British  India,     With  this  objt^ct  they  set  out  quickly  to 

^^Jargilan,  where  at  the  time  of  writing  they  were  making  preparations 

:t\»r  this  important  journey.    The  plans  of  the  tiavellers,  w^hich  had  been 

lodified  at  the  suggestion  of  General  KaralkoflF,  to  whoso  iissistance  they 

rore   greatly   indebted  on    their   la-st  journey,  were   as   follows.     At 

<Ijultcha,   their  base  of  operations,  provisions,  pack  and  saddle-horaes 

^^would  be  obtained,  and  also  a  stock  of  fuel,  as  they  had  to  cross  a  perfect 

desert  at  an  altitude  of  from  13,000   to  1G,000  feet.     From  Gultcha 

"tliey  would  proceed  through  the  Taldik  (?Tea-ek)  pass  to  Lake  Kara  Kul, 

~t;hen  over  the  pass  of  Tuyak,  and  along  the  frozen  river  of  AkbaitaL 

^Ai*ter  following  this  a! ream  for  t^ome  distance,  the  travellers  w^ould  leave 

it  and  endeavour  to  reach  the  little  river  Almagan,  near  the  khanate  of 

IKundjut,  in  order  to  avoid  being  stopped  by  the  Kara^Kirghiz  and  tlio 

-Afghans.     They  would  then  push  on  to  Nagar  through  the  passes  of 

Market  and  Yassin.     This  route  presents  few   difficulties   in   winter, 

which   is   the   beat   season   for   avoiding   conilicti   w*ith    the    summer 

inhabitants  of  the  Pamir.     The  travellers  hoped  to  be  able  to  conciliate 

the   young  ruler  of  Kundjut,   who   had   quite  recently  succeeded  his 

father,   after  having   caused   hira   to   be   assassinated    by    two   of  Ids 

Bervantfi,     In  view  of  the   importance  of  this  route  through  country 

little  known  to  Europeans,  we  shall  await  with  intt^rest  the  result  ot 

this  bold  enterprise, 

•  Vide  Froc.  E.G.S,  1&87,  p.  215. 


308 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


Surveys  and  reconnAiasaEces  in  ITpper  Burma.  ^  Colonel  Wood- 
thorpe,  R,E.,  arrived  at  Paimgbyin  on  the  Kjendwin  (lat,  24^^  16', 
long.  94°  50')  on  the  27th  January,  having  crossed  the  Knbo  valley 
from  Tammu  by  vvliat  is  called  the  Sweja  route*  Leaving  Tammu  on  the 
25th,  he  marched  to  Auktang,  then  to  Kaia,  6  miles  north  of  Auktang, 
whence  ho  ascended  the  Kyendwin  in  a  Berthon  boat  to  Paungbyin. 
From  Faungbyin,  Colonel  Woodthorpo  was  to  proceed  a  five  days*  march 
up  the  Yen  or  Urn  river,  accompanied  by  Lieutenant  Daly,  the  political 
officer.  They  intended  to  proceed  by  an  inland  route  and  return  by  river, 
paying  a  visit  to  Samjok  (Thaungdut)  on  the  way.  After  this  trip, 
Colonel  Woodtborpe  intenda  to  go  to  Kindat,  whore  he  hopes  to  meet 
Mr<  Ogle*  Up  to  the  present,  though  delayed  by  bad  weather,  they  have 
cleared  and  observed  at  8  peaks,  and  fixed  a  good  many  points  to  work 
from  ;  while  they  have  surveyed  the  Kubo  valley  and  gained  a  fair 
knowledge  of  the  hills  to  the  west,  which  are  inhabited  by  Chins  or 
Bunnese  Nagas.  The  Yen  river  has  been  partially  surveyed,  and  also  a 
good  deal  of  the  country  to  the  south-east  of  Manipur  and  west  of  the 
limit  of  Major  Badgley's  survey  of  1882,  The  outturn  of  work  tip  to 
the  end  of  January  amounts  to  800  square  miles  on  the  quarter  inch 
and  2G0  square  miles  on  the  one-eighth  of  an  inch  scale, — Captain  Hobday  fl 
reports  from  Mandalay  that  he  had  just  returned  from  the  I?uby  mines^  ™ 
marching  with  a  column  first  to  Mainlnng,  then  to  Mogok,  where 
Mr.  Kennedy,  who  had  surveyed  up  from  the  river  at  Kyan-nyat,  met 
him*  He  then  went  on  to  Engouk  (elevation  COOO  feet),  which  is  to  be  _ 
an  experimental  sanitarium ;  the  climate  is  cold  and  invigorating,  the  U 
temperature  at  night  going  down  to  26"  Fahr.  From  Engouk,  Captain 
Hobday  returned  to  Mandalay  by  a  new  route  via  Shwen-aungbin  to 
Thabytkyon  on  the  Irawadi,  which  is  reported  to  be  much  better  and 
shorter  than  that  vitl  K.yan*nyat,  which  becomes  impas&able  in  the  rains. 
Mr.  Kennedy  is  left  in  the  Kuby  mine  district  to  continue  the  survey, 
and  Captain  Hobday  intends  to  accompany  the  Sawbwa  of  Thibaw  of 
the  Shan  States  back  to  his  capital,  and  to  take  the  opportunity  to  recon- 
noitre a  large  bit  of  unknown  country.  He  expected,  in  all  probability, 
to  be  away  from  Mandalay  till  the  end  of  March.  fl 

Horth  Alaska, ^^Some  interesting  detaila  concerning  Lieut.  Howard's 
daring  journey  across  the  north  of  Alaska,  which  we  briefly  noticed  in 
the  December  number  of  the  *  Proceedings '  (p.  789),  have  recently  been. 
published.  In  the  course  of  his  expedition  he  descended  the  Ikpikpuk, 
the  river  mentioned  by  natives  as  flowing  between  the  Yukon  and  the 
Glacial  Ocean.  Acconipanied  by  a  sailor  named  F,  J.  Price,  ho  started 
on  12th  April,  1886,  from  Fort  Cosmos  on  the  Kowak  river,  with  instruc- 
tions from  Lieut.  Stonoy,  of  whose  expedition  ho  was  a  meoiberj  to  cross 
the  country  from  the  river  Putram  to  Point  Barrow.  He  took  with  him 
two  sledges  and  sixteen  dogs.  He  travelled  as  far  as  practicable  in 
company  with  the  natives  of  diflferent  tribes,  and  in  this  way  was 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  309 

escorted  by  from  30  to  100  men  at  a  time.  The  journey  was  fall  of 
hardships,  and  the  cold  intense,  the  thermometer  descending  as  far  as 
30°  below  zero  (  ?  Centigrade).  In  the  mountainous  districts  it  became 
necessary  to  unpack  the  baggage  and  carry  it.  Lieut.  Howard  was  very 
well  received  by  the  natives,  who  had  never  seen  a  white  man.  The 
people  resemble  the  Esquimaux  rather  than  the  Indians  of  North 
America ;  they  are,  without  exception,  given  to  the  use  of  tobacco ;  men, 
women,  and  children  all  smoke.  The  traveller  journeyed  in  the  sledge 
for  seven  days  on  the  river  Cadwell,  which  was  frozen  all  over,  and  then 
crossing  a  mountain  chain  he  discovered  the  river  Ikpikpuk.  From 
23rd  May  to  3rd  June  he  encamped  close  by  its  source.  He  now  suffered 
much  from  hunger,  his  supply  of  provisions  ])eing  completely  exhausted, 
and  unable,  like  the  natives,  to  eat  putrefied  seal  fat,  he  had  to  content 
himself  with  roots.  Upon  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice,  he  started  down 
the  river  in  a  boat  made  of  skins  sewn  together,  and  descended  the  river 
for  200  miles,  down  to  its  mouth,  where  it  forms  a  great  number  of  lakes 
and  swamps,  some  of  which  are  more  than  five  miles  broad.  He  arrived 
with  his  skin  boat  on  the  shore  of  the  Arctic  Ocean  at  Point  Barrow, 
whence  he  returned  to  San  Francisco,  having  travelled  for  a  distance 
of  1000  miles  in  Alaska.  He  determined  his  position  daily  by  astro- 
nomical observation. 

Antarctic  Exploration. — We  learn  from  Melbourne  that  a  further 
step  *  has  been  taken  in  promotion  of  an  expedition  towards  the  South 
Pole  by  leading  men  in  the  colony  of  Yictoria.  Acting  on  an  offer 
made  by  the  gallant  Arctic  explorer  Sir  Allen  Young  to  lead  such  an 
expedition,  it  is  stated  that  Sir  Graham  Berry  has  brought  the  question 
of  a  Government  grant  towards  the  cost  of  the  enterprise  (stated  to  be 
8000Z.)  before  the  Cabinet,  and  that  the  matter  is  being  urged  forward 
with  a  view  to  the  vessel  or  vessels  starting  from  Hobson's  Bay  in 
October  or  November  next.  The  object  of  the  expedition  is  to  be 
entirely  geographical,  but  incidentally  much  advantage  is  expected  to 
accrue  to  the  whaling  and  sealing  interests  who  would  profit  by  the 
information  gained. — It  is  rumoured  that  a  movement  is  on  foot  also  in 
Sweden  for  the  despatch  of  an  expedition  to  the  Antarctic  regions,  and 
that  Baron  von  Nordenskiold  has  expressed  his  willingness  to  take  the 
command. 

Oerman  New  Ouinea. — Great  activity  is  being  displayed  by  the 
New  Guinea  Company,  and  their  Chief  Commissioner,  Admiral  von 
Schleinitz,  in  making  voyages  of  discoveiy  along  the  coast  of  this  part 
of  New  Guinea.  The  first  two  numbers  of  this  year's  *  Nachrichten 
iiber  Kaiser  Wilhelms-Land  *  contain  reports  upon  these  operations. 
Huon  Gulf  has  been  thoroughly  explored,  with  the  result  that  besides 
the  rectification  of  the  coast-Une,  eight  natural  harbours,  previously 

♦   Vide  *  Proceedings  R.G.S.,'  1886,  p.  718. 


310 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


unknown,  have  been  survejed^  and  nine  rivera  discovered.  Wliile  tL© 
party  was  enable  to  ascend  these  streams  for  any  great  distance,  it 
seems  pretty  certain  that  one  of  them,  Markham  rivers  presents  an 
excellent  starting-point  for  the  exploration  of  the  interior,  as  the  river- 
valley  is  broad,  and  bordered  by  high  mountain  chains.  The  coast 
between  Astrolabe  Bay  and  the  mouth  of  the  Empress  Augusta  river 
was  explored  during  November  last.  This  journey  led  to  the  discovery 
of  new  bays,  islands,  and  streams,  which  will  cause  much  alteration  to 
existing  maps.  Information  regarding  the  character  of  the  country 
and  its  suitability  for  cultivation  has  been  collected.  A  very  carefully 
prepared  map  of  Huon  Gulf,  on  scale  1 ;  500,000,  is  published  with  the 
foregoing  reports. 

The  Great  Watersheds  of  the  Globe.— General  von  Tillo,  the  well- 
known  Russian  geographer,  contributes  a  brief  note  to  the  current 
number  of  Petermann'a  *  Mittoilungen  *  on  the  subject  of  the  principal 
waterslieds  of  tbe  earth.  He  gives  a  cartographical  representation  of 
this  great  water-divide  which,  starting  from  Capo  Horn,  exten^ls  along 
the  whole  of  the  west  coast  of  the  American  continent  up  to  Behring 
Straits,  and  then,  continuing  on  tliG  opposite  side  of  the  Straits,  runs  in 
a  kind  of  irregular  diagonal  across  the  continents  of  Asia  and  Afnwi, 
terminating  at  tlie  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  This  diagonal  runs  roughly  along 
the  line  of  the  great  mountain  ranges  of  Central  Asia  which  end  in  the 
Caucasus,  and  then,  with  a  bend  tLruugb  Syria  and  across  the  Istlimus  of 
Suez,  follows  the  monntaintj  of  the  West  of  Africa  down  to  the  Cape. 
The  whole  line  is  thus  unbroken  in  its  continuity,  except  for  a  lew 
miles  at  Behring  Straits.  After  this  great  watershed,  the  next  in  im- 
portance is,  according  to  General  Tillo,  that  of  the  Indian-Pacific,  and 
then  follow  tho  particular  water-divides  of  the  different  continents.  It 
will  be  seen  that  the  line  sketched  above  has  a  characteriatic  concavity 
as  regards  the  North  Polar-Atlantic  basin,  to  which  belong  the  greater 
part  of  the  land-masses  of  the  old  world  and  the  greatest  part  of  tho 
land  in  the  new. 

The  German  "  GeogTaphentag,"— The  annual  Assembly  of  German 
Geographers  took  place  this  year  at  Karlsmhe,  from  April  14th  to  17th. 
Among  the  more  important  subjects  brought  before  the  meeting  were 
Antarctic  Explorations,  by  Dr.  Neumayer  ;  Progress  am!  Preiseut  Position 
of  German  Surveys,  by  Dr,  Jordan  of  Hanover ;  On  the  Promotion  of 
Geographical  Study  and  Education  ;  On  Morocco,  by  Professor  Rein ; 
On  MounUin  Grouping,  by  Dr.  A,  Bohm  ;  The  Natural  Conditions  of 
Historical  and  Social  Development  in  the  Rhine  Valley  and  the  Black 
Forest,  by  Professor  Gotheim.  Herr  Paul  Reicbard  gave  an  account  of 
bis  recent  journeys  in  East  Africa,  and  Herr  Hugo  Ztillor  read  a  piper 
on  the  Buundaries  of  tho  Explored  and  Unexplored  Region  in  Togoland 
and  the  Cameroons. 


(   311   ; 

REPOBT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS,  SESSION  1886-7. 

Ninth  Meeting,  2Qth  March,  1887. — General  R.  Strachey,  r.b.,  f.r.8., 
Vi<»-Presideiit,  in  the  Chair. 

Elkctionb.— i>r.  B.  Borun ;  Frederick  V,  Dichim,  Esq. ;  Colonel  Augmtm 
Le  Mesurier,  B.E. ;  John  Henry  Lile,  Esq, ;  Alexander  Macdonald,  Esq. ;  Arthur 
Patchdt  Martin,  Esq. ;  John  H.  May,  Esq, ;  Philip  MenneU,  Esq. ;  Jos.  Gurdon 
Leyctsttr  Stephenson,  Esq.,  c.e. 

The  paper  of  the  evening  was  : — 

•*  Between  the  Nile  and  the  Congo :  Dr.  Junker  and  the  (Welle)  Makua."  By 
J.  T.  Wills.    Ante,  p.  285. 

Tenth  Meeting,  25th  April,  1887. — General  R.  Strachey,  r.e.,  f.r.s., 
Vice-President,  in  the  Chair. 

Elections.— (7corgfc  Stapylton  Barnes,  Esq. ;  Staff- Surgeon  Horace  E.  F,  Cross, 
B.N. ;  Charles  Washington  Eves,  Esq. ;  Jos.  Wm.  Johnson,  Esq. ;  Lieut.'Cohnel 
Edmund  Molyneux ;  Edw.  Wm.  Parson  Sy  Esq, ;  Townsend  Percy,  Esq, ;  Bev. 
Charles  E.  Stevens,  b.d.,  ph.d.  ;  Sir  John  WHloughby,  babt.  ;  Matthew  Wyatt,  Esq. 

Pbesentation — O.  Stanley  Philip,  Esq. 

Royal  Medals  and  otheb  Awabds  fob  1887. 

At  the  opening  of  the  meeting,  the  Chairman  announced  that. 

The  Royal  Medals  and  other  awards  for  tho  present  year  had  that  day  been 
adjudicated  by  the  Council,  as  follows : — 

The  FonNDEB*8  Medal,  to  Lieut.-Col.  T.  H.  IIoldich,  b.e.,  in  consideration 
of  the  services  he  has  rendered  to  geographical  science  by  the  zeal  and  devotion 
with  which  he  has  carried  out  the  surveys  in  Afghanistan ;  first,  in  1878-80,  when 
he  explored  the  Bori  Valley  route  and  mapped  the  country  near  the  Beluchistan 
border,  and  subsequently,  as  senior  survey  officer  with  the  army  in  Northern 
Af;;hanistan,  ascended  the  Lughman  Range ;  in  1881-83,  when  in  the  course  of  his 
surveys  of  the  Eastern  Afghan  boundary  he  carried  his  Instruments  to  the  summit 
of  the  Takht-i-Suliman ;  and  lastly  in  1884-86,  when,  as  chief  of  the  survey  party 
on  the  Russo- Afghan  Boundary  Commission,  he  availed  himself  of  the  opportunity 
to  extend  the  survey  operations  over  an  area  of  more  than  100,000  square  miles. 
Also  for  his  numerous  valuable  contributions  since  1879  to  the  Society's 
*  Proceedings.' 

The  Patbos's  or  Victobia  Medal,  to  Mr.  G.  Grenfell,  for  the  extensive 
explorations  he  has  carried  out  during  his  thirteen  years'  residence  in  West  Africa ; 
first  in  the  Cameroons  country,  and  afterwards  on  the  Congo,  and  especially,  for 
his  reconnaissance  surveys  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Congo,  eleven  of  which  he  has 
ascended,  laying  down  their  courses  in  a  series  of  preliminary  charts  on  a  large  scale. 

The  MuBCUisoN  Grant,  to  Mr.  George  Bourne,  second  in  command,  and  now 
sole  survivor  of  the  Landsborough  Expedition  which  crossed  the  continent  of 
Australia  in  1861,  in  search  of  Burke  and  Wills. 

The  Back  Premium,  to  Sarat  Chandra  Drab,  for  his  researches  in  Tibet,  in 
1879  and  1881-82. 

The  Gill  Memorial,  to  Mr.  J.  F.  Needham,  in  recognition  of  his  services  in 
exploring  the  valley  of  the  Lohit  Brahmaputra  between  Assam  and  the  Zayul 
Valley  of  Tibet. 

The  paper  read  was : — 

"  The  Lu  River  of  Tibet ;  is  it  the  source  of  the  Irawadi  or  the  Sal  win  ?  "  By 
General  J.  T.  Walkrr,  r.e.,  t.r.s. 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 

GeograpMcal  Society  of  Pariflt  Marcli   4thj  18S7:   M.  Jansbbk  in   the 
Chair. — ^The  Miniater  of  Public  iDStriiction  forwarded  a  circular  annouDcing  that 
the  25tli  Annual  Coogrt-gs  of  the  Learned  Societies  would  be  held  on  the  31  fit  Maj» 
at  the  Sorboone  Hall,  aud  giving  the  list  of  stibjecta  to  bo  discussed  by  the  Geo- 
graphical Section. — A  commnnication  was  read  by  the  Secretary  from  M,  A,  Dumont. 
civil  engineer,  ^ving  iome  account  of  the  scheme  for  opening  up  the  valley  of  the 
Euphrates  to  European  commerce* — Dr,  Lahonne  informed  the  Society  that  he  had 
juat  been  charged  by  the  Ministtfr  of  Public  Instruction  with  a  mission  to  Iceland 
and  the  Faeroe  Islands  for  the  purpoae  of  further  pursuiog  hie  researches  on  the 
natural    history  of  these   islands, — A  letter  was  read   from   Dr»   A.  d^Elysaeef^ 
physician  of  the  Russian  Imp>eriftl  Guard,  announcing  his  return  to  St.  Petersburg 
from  a  fre&h  journey  in  Asia  Minor,     After  exploring  the  north  of  Syria,  he  pro- 
ceeded to  Mesopotamia  across  the  country  of  the  Kurds.     For  three  mouths  he  was 
engi^ed  in  making  anthropological  researches  in  the  heart  of  the  mountaiDS  of 
Kurdialan  and  Armenia*     He  then  travelled  from  Cherput  to  Samsum.     An  im- 
portant work  on  the  Upi>er  Bed  Biver  and  its  affluents  was  received  from  M.  Qouiii, 
French  Resident  at  8on-Tay  (Tongkioor).     In  a  letter  accompany  log  this  presenta- 
tion M,  Gonfn  announced  that  he  coatemplatetl  making  a*complete  study  of  the  moun- 
tainous districts  on  the  borders  of  Tonkiog,  inhabited  by  the  Muoogs,  Thos,  Ghana, 
and  other  tribes.     M.  Gouin*»*  paper  will  be  inserted  in  the  Quarterly  Bulletin, — 
M*  Petit  communicated  some  informBtioa  as  to  the  Congo  received  by  him  in  a 
letter  from  Stanley  Pool  (25th  December,  1886),  from  which  we  learn  that  the 
Arabs,  after  gaining  possession  of  the  Falls  station,  had  descended  the  river,  plun- 
dering as  they  proceeded.     The  Bangak  station  was  in  danger.     The  tmnaport 
service  also  from  the  coast  to  Stanley  Pool  had  been  interrupted  on  both  banks  in 
consequence  of  the  attacks  by  the  natives  on  the  caravans ;  the  State  appeared  to 
be  unable  to  cope  with  the  mischief. — The  latest  news  of  M,  A.  Thouar  was  con- 
tained in  a  letter,  dated  9th  December,  and  forwarded  by  the  Minister  of  Public 
Inatraction.    He  had  started  on  2nd  December  on  his  journey  across  the  Gran  Chaco, 
escortetl  by  forty  men.--M.  E.  Hangsen  Blangsted  communicated  the  following  in- 
formation  as  to  the  population  of  Greenland,      The  number  of  natives  in  North 
Greenland  about  the  end  of  1885  was  4414,  and  in  South  Greenland  5500;  the»o 
figures  showed  an  increase  for  the  year  1885  of  86   and   31   respectively.^The 
American  explorer,  Mr.  R.  Peary,  civil  engineer,  who  was  desjiatched  last  summer 
by  the  Government  of  the  United  States  to  Ritenbenk  to  study  the  aontinenfal 
Jce  and  its  movement  towards  the  coast,  had  succeeded,  in  company  with  a  Dane, 
in  penetrating  faHhor  than  any  previous  traveller*      The  details  of  his  expedition 
were  not  yet  know^n.— In  conclusion  a  paper  was  read  hj  M.   Jean  Broussali, 
an  Armenian  student,  on  Armenia  and  its  people.     The  lecture  was  illustrated  by 
projections  of  photogrnphic  views. 

^ —  March  ISth  1887 :  M.  Janssen  in  the  Chair.— M.  G.  Holland,  minin? 
engineer,  and  member  of  the  scientific  mission  of  exploration  in  Tunis,  sent  a  copy 
of  a  oonimuuication  recently  made  by  him  to  the  Academy  of  Sciences  on  the  gec»Iogy 
of  the  region  of  Lake  Kelbia  and  the  littoral  of  Centml  Tunis.  The  conclusions 
at  which  he  arrives,  may  be  summarised  as  follows  i — the  configuration  of  the  land 
on  the  littoral  of  Central  Tunis  has  not  undergone  any  practical  alteration  within 
historical  time.  During  the  Roman  period  it  is  possible  that  the  level  of  the  wmters 
was  higher  in  consequence  of  very  heavy  rains  then  prevalent,  but  at  that  time,  as 
to-day.  Lake  Kelbia  only  communicated  with  the  sea  in  an  intermittent  way  and 


FH0CE1DING3  OP  POREIGK  SOCIETIES. 


313 


Ijy  as  tmimportiint  atream, — Tbo  queeiion  of  the  locsale  of  Tav©mier*8  grare  again 
occupied  the  attention  of  the  Society,  papers  being  read  by  tho  Btcretary  from 
31U.  W.  Martin  and  Ck  Joeet  on  the  snbject.—A  letter,  dated  23rd  Febniarj',  1887, 
Tras  received  from  the  tniveHers  MM.  Capiis  and  Bonvalot,  now  in  Central  Asia. — 
HL,  B.  du  Caillaud  cummunicated  two  short  papers,  one  on  a  Chiocae  Atlantis,  the 
odber  on  earthquakes  in  China, — M.  Depgodlna  forwarded,  among  other  docnmentSj 
one  containing  the  obserrationE  of  the  Abb4  Dengodins  on  the  rnles  formulated  by 
the  Society  for  the  orthography  of  geographical  names.  He  complains  of  their 
incompl«fcenefis,  and  states  that  nnmeroua  Chinese  and  Tibetan  namee  cannot  be 
written  aiccording  to  them.  Hts  instanoea,  in  the  case  of  the  Clunese  lan;^age,  the 
want  of  any  diitinction  between  "an"  and  "ane,"  "In"  and  "ine,"  **on*'and 
"one,"  "h'*  Boftly  and  strongly  aspirated.  As  regards  I'ibetan,  no  provision  is 
made  by  the  rales  for  the  Round  "nga/' — An  extract  from  an  American  paper 
relative  to  Lieutenant  Howard's  Journey  aorOBs  Alaaka  was  sent  by  M.  Jules  Gmird. 
— M.  Ramon  Liata  informed  the  Society  of  his  projected  expedition  to  Tierra  del 
Fu^o,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Argentine  Government. — Several  publications 
dealing  with  questions  of  colonisation  and  scientific  exploration  in  Canada  were 
praiented  to  the  Society  by  M,  G,  Demanche*  Among  them  a  report  by  Lieutennnt 
Gordon,  commander  of  the  Ahrt  on  hia  two  years'  summer  cruises  In  Hudson's 
Bay,  M.  Demanche  pointed  ont  the  advantages  oflfered  by  Canada  to  French 
emigranta,^ — M,  Mich.  Venukoff  wrote  announcing  the  completion  of  the  calculation 
of  the  length  of  the  52od  ^tfirallel  between  Valencia  (Ireland)  and  Orsk  { Russia) ; 
tho  results  obtained  would  be  published  al  the  end  of  the  year. — In  conclusion, 
IL  Castonnet  dee  Fosses  read  a  pajier  on  the  oonstntction  of  a  new  summer  [jalace 
at  Fekin, 

The  Geographical  and  Antliropological  Societies  of  Berlin.— Special 
meeting  lield  »n  hanour  of  Dn  Junker  on  16th  March,  18S7 :  Uerr  W,  Reiss  in  the 
Chair. — The  Chairman,  after  welcoming  the  traveller  in  the  name  of  the  Geographical 
Society,  sketched  briefly  his  achievements,  referring  to  the  severe  trials  and  dangers 

,h6  had  experienced,  and  coniroenting  on  the  energy  and  endurance  ho  must  have 
iplayed  in  having  iruccessfuUy  overcome  them.     The  valuable  anthropological 

*  collections  had,  it  was  true,  he  said,  been  lost,  but  the  traveller's  diaries  and  the 
wealth  of  geographical  material  obtained  by  him  had  been  preserved,  as  the  excellent 
maps  exhibited  at  the  meeting  testified.  Amid  great  applauae  from  the  numerously 
attended  meeting,  the  audience  rising  tn  ma$&e  from  their  places,  the  Chairman 
presenttid  Dr  Junker  with  the  diplonm  of  honorary  membership  of  the  Society. 
The  traveller  was  then  welcomed  in  the  name  of  the  Anthropological  Society  by 
Professor  Virchow,  who  dwelt  on  the  fact  that  Dr,  Junker  had  grown  up  in  an 
anthropological  atmosphere  ;  his  family  were  natives  of  Gxittlngen,  where  Blumen- 
bacb  then  taught,  and  later  on  he  had  oome  under  the  influence  of  K,  E.  von  Biier. 
After  these  preliminaries.  Dr.  Junker  commenced  his  lecture  with  a  short  reference 
to  the  purely  geographical  results  of  his  journey,  the  details  of  which,  ho  said,  he 
desired  to  reserve  for  a  written  account.  On  the  present  occasion  ho  would 
endeavour  to  give  his  hearers  a  general  sketch  of  the  regions  through  which  ho  had 
{naaed,  and  of  the  origin  of  the  Mahdist  rebellion.  His  usual  mode  of  travelling, 
inaamuch  aa  he  was  never  accoraf>anied  by  a  largo  band  of  porters,  but  as  a  rule 
only  by  a  small  number  of  servants,  was  to  arrange  for  a  long  stay  at  a  given 
point,  and  from  there  to  make  extended  tours  into  the  neighbouring  territories. 
In  dealing  with  the  native  {xitentates,  it  was  his  practice  in  the  irst  instance 
to  send  messengers  to  their  places  of  residence,  through  whom  ho  assured 
them  of  his  peaceful  intentions,  and  of  the  fact  that  ho  was  coming  without  a 
military  escort.     On  the  side  of  the    wary    chiefs,   envoys   were    then    usually 


PflOC£EDING3  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


sent  back  with  tLe  traveller s  messeagers  in  order  to  satisfy  themselves  of  the 
truth  of  the  asaertioDs  made.     In  this  way    the    traveller    gained    easy  admie- 
sion   everywhere.     I'ho   stations   at  which   he  was  obliged   to  lemain  for  some 
length  of  time  were  always  surrounded  with  a  fence  and  a  hedge  of  thorna  on 
account  of  the  numerous  leopards  in  the  vicinity.     These  animals  very  frequently 
attack  human  beings,  particularly  the  women,  who  go  out  in  the  evening  to  fetch 
water.     The  habit  which  they  have  of  returning  to  their  prey,  if  iinahl©  to  conBume 
it  all  at  one  time,  causes  them  to  he  eaBily  caught  in  snares  laid  for  them*     Lions, 
which  abound  in  equally  large  numbers,  are  more  cautious ;  they  avoid  nets  of  every 
kind.      The  natives  therefore  secure  themselves  at  night  by  spreading  light  nets 
over  their  ]mts.     Hunting  is  laborious  work,  in  consequence  of  the  tall,  tliick,  sharp 
l^raas.     Only  during  the  months  of  December  and  January,  when  the  dry  grass  is 
burnt  up,  is  it  jxissible  to  take  exercise  with  comfort.      The  game  retreats  to  those 
spots  where  the  grass  is  not  burnt  away ;  here  the  elephants,  whose  feet  are  injured 
by  the  burning  of  the  grass,  fall  an  easy  prey  to  the  Akkas.      In  April  the  grass 
becomes  again  so  tail  that  travelling  is  exceedingly  arduous.     The  great  Monbuttu 
and  Niam  Niam  empires  have  completely  fallen  to  pieces  in  consequence  of  having 
been  divided  among  the  very  numerous  descendants  of  the  late  powerful  ruler ;  the 
people  are  continually  quarrelling^  and  throughout  the  wliole  of  the  country  traversed 
by  Dr.  Junker  there  is  not  one  really  powerful  king.     In  Monbuttu  land  the  women 
paint  their  bodies  with  tricolonred  devices  resembling  an  inlaid  floor ;  among  the 
women  of  rank  this  toilet  is  extmordinarily  elaborate  and  ingenious.    The  first  signs 
of  the  Mahdiet  movement,  which  was  destined  to  set  the  whole  of  the  Sudan  on  fire, 
be;;an  in  the  year  1862.    The  revolt  of  the  Denka  tribes  cut  the  traveller  ofl^  from 
returning  to  Bahr-el-Ghazal  by  way  of  Meshra-el-Eek.     At  first  Lupton  I  ley  hoped 
to  be  able  to  quell  the  rebellion,  but  inasmuch  aa  the  men  under  his  command  were 
only  irregular  troojis,  Dongolas  and  Arabs,  instead  of  the  native  troops  which,  as  a 
rule,  remained  true  to  the  Government,  and  as  he  received  no  help  from  the  Egyptian 
Government,  he  waa  compelled,  after  many  unsuccessful  battles,  and  after  being 
deserted  by  his  troops,  who  fraterniatd  with  their  fellow-believers,  to  give  himself 
up  to  the  Mahdists,  in  whose  han<ls  he  is  at  the  present  moment  a  prisoner.     Br* 
Junker  defends  Lupton  vigorously  against  the  attacks  which  have  been   made 
upon  him.     Lupton,  he  says,  did  the  ntmoat  possible  nnder  the  circumstances,  and 
fought  bravely.     When  Dr*  Junker  saw  tbe  impossibiUty  of  penetrating  to  the 
north,  he  retmced  his  steps  eastwards  about  the  end  of  the  year  1883,  and  met  with 
pjmin  Bey  at  Lado.     Here  he  received  the  letters  which  had  been  sent  to  him  in 
the  previous  May  from  Europe;  they  proved  to  be  the  last  tidings  of  home  for  a 
long  time.    Instead  of  European  news,  the  beleaguered  men  now  began  to  receive 
violent  and  threatening  communications  from  the  Mahdists  containing  reports  of 
the  defeats  of  the  English,   to  which,  however,  but  little  credence  was  given* 
Immediately  after  the  fall  of  Khartum,  the  Emir  KaramaOa,  whom  the  Mahdi  had 
despatched  against  Emin  Bey,  sent  a  proud,  insolent  letter  to  the  latter.     This 
letter  Dr.  Junker  read  to  the  meeting.     In  consequence  of  the]  continued  advance  of 
Karamalla,  who  in  April  1884  had  seized  Amadl  and  shortly  afterwards  got  Makaka 
into  his  power,  Emin  Bey  deemed  it  advisable  to  remove  the  State  archives  from 
Lndo  to  Dufile,  and  prepared  himself  for  the  worst,  when  suddenly  the  rebel  leader 
stopped  his  onward  movement  and  returned  to  the  north.     Why  he  took  this  strange 
step  is  an  enigma  which  still  remains  to  lie  solved.    At  length,  on  Janimry  2nd,  1866, 
Dr.  Junker  left  Emin  and  Casati  in  order  to  reach  Zanzibar  through  Unyoro.     The 
way  in  which  he  Bucccssfnlly  accomplished  this  journey  is  wtU  known.    In  the 
opinion  of  the  traveller,  it  would  now  be  an  easy  matter  to  reconquer  the  Sudan 
provinces,  as  the  people  are  weary  of  war  and  of  the  continual  disturbances ;  more- 


NEW  GEOGRAPUICAL  PaBUCATIONS.  21% 

over,  the  Mahdi's  sacoesiior  has  already  heen  murdered.  It  would  almost  appear  as 
if  political  considerations  had  prevented  the  reacquisition  of  the  Equatorial  provinces. 
A  number  of  (German  Geographical  Societies  were  represented  by  delegates  at  the 
meeting,  while  others  sent  congratulatory  telegrams.  The  Geographical  Society  of 
St.  Petersburg  announced  by  telegram  the  nomination  of  Dr.  Junker  as  an  honorary 
member  of  that  Society.  The  map  of  the  country  traversed  by  Dr.  Junker,  which 
was  exhibited  at  the  meeting,  was  on  scale  1:410,000,  having  been  prepared  i& 
Cairo  under  the  direction  of  Dr.  Schweinfurth,  from  the  original  maps  of  the 
traveller.  The  new  route-eurveys,  prepared  by  Dr.  Junker  himself,  comprise 
the  region  between  Dem-Bekir  in  the  north,  the  Baginse  Mountains  in  the  east, 
AU-Kobbo's  zeriba  in  the  west,  and  Ssanga  on  the  Nepoku,  which  is  probably  the 
upper  course  of  the  Aruwimi,  in  the  south.  The  approximate  longitude  an^ 
latitude  of  these  poinU  are  as  foWowB  :—Dem  Bekir,  long.  26^  28',  lat.  6""  47'; 
Bagime  MU.,  long.  28°  53'  30",  lat  4^23';  Ali-Kobho's  zeriba,  long.  22°  57'  40", 
lat.  3°  43';  Saanga,  long.  27°  55',  lat.  1°  54'. 


NEW  GEOGBAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 
(By  J.  SooTT  Eblth,  Librarian  b.o.8.) 

EUROPE. 

Baedeker,  E.~Italy.  Handbook  for  Travellers.  Third  part :  Southern  Italy  anA 
Sicily,  with  excursions  to  the  Lipari  Islands,  Malta,  Sardinia,  Tunis,  and  Corfu. 
With  26  maps  and  17  plans.  Ninth  revised  edition.  Leipsio,  E^arl  Baedeker; 
London,  Dulau  &  Co.,  1887  :  12mo.,  pp.  xlviiL  and  416.    Price  6s. 

Laveleye,  Emile  [Be]* — La  P^ninsuledes  Balkans.  Yienne,  Croatie,  Bosnie,  Serbie, 
Bulgfuie,  Boumelie,  Turquie,  RoTimanie.  Bruxelles,  C.  Muquardt,  1886:  8vo^ 
2  vols.    L,  pp.  360 ;  XL,  pp.  435.    Price  7«.  6c;. 

.    The  Balkan  Peninsula.    Translated  by  Mrs.  Thorpe.    Edited  and  revise* 

for  the  English  public  by  the  author,  with  an  introductory  chapter  upon  the  most 
recent  events,  and  a  letter  from  the  Right  Hon.  W.  E.  Gladstone,  m.p.,  with  a 
map.  London,  Fisher  Unwin,  1887  :  8vo.,  pp.  xxvL  and  384.  Price  16*. 
[Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 

M.  de  Laveleye*s  instructive  work  may  be  regarded  as  an  important  contri- 
bution to  political  geography.  Of  course  it  deals  largely  with  the  history,  the 
public  men,  and  the  special  politics  of  the  Balkan  Stat^  but  at  the  same  time 
contains  much  that  will  be  found  useful  by  the  geographical  student.  The 
translation  seems  faithful,  and  is  readable,  and  contains  an  introductory 
chapter  bringing  the  book  up  to  date. 

Sandys,  John  Edwin. — An  Easter  Yacatiou  in  Greece ;  with  Lists  of  Books  om 
Greek  Travel  and  Topography  and  Time-tables  of  Greek  Steamers  and  Railways. 
With  a  Map  of  Greece,  and  a  Plan  of  Olympia.  London,  Macmillan  &  Co.,  1887:: 
cr.  8vo.,  pp.  xvi.  and  175.    Price  3«.  6d,    [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

This  little  book  contains  a  short  account,  in  journal  form,  of  a  tour  in  Greece 
taken  by  the  author  and  his  wife  in  the  spring  of  last  year.  A  week  was  spent 
at  Athens,  from  whence  excursions  were  made  to  Salamis,  Eleusis,  Phyle, 
Pentelicus,  Laurium,  and  Sunium ;  Tiryns  and  Mycenas,  Nemea  and  Corinth, 
Delphi  and  Olympia,  Zante  and  Corfu,  were  afterwards  visited.  The  map  i» 
intended  to  show  the  principal  land  and  sea  routes,  and  the  lines  of  railwa}*. 
There  is  little  in  the  book  that  cannot  be  found  in  well-known  sources  oi' 
information. 
No.  v.— May  1887.]  2  a 


316 


NEW  GEOQRJIPHICAL  PaBUCATIONS. 


Saunders-Forster,  C.  0,— Beneath  Parnassian  Clouds  and  Oljinpiaa  'SuDibmc, 
London,  Remington  Sc  Co.,  1887  :  cr,  Svo.,  pp.  284,  Price  7«.  Bd,  [Presented 
by  the  Publishers.] 

A  popular  account  of  a  lady*«  journey  in  Greece.    Amoiig  the  varioTW  places 

vUited  may  be  roeotioued — Thebes,  Livatlin,  Chajronia,  Aracbova,  and  Delphi ; 

the  valley  of  the  Upper  Kephissus,  ThermopylfB,  Lamia,  and  Stylida  j  Volo, 

Larissa,  Atbens»  Korinth,  Mykene,  Tiryns,  and  Epidauros;  Tempe,  Kalam- 

bakka,  and  the  Metcora  Monasteries. 

Woodward,    Horace  B.— Tlie  Geology  of  England  and  Wales;  with  Notes  on 

the  Piiysical  Features  of  the  Country.     Second  Edition.     With  Geological  Map 

and  Illustrations.     London,  George  Philip  &  Son,  1387:  8vo.,  pp.  xv.  and  070 

Pxice  18«.     [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 


ASIA, 


Paris,  Fiachbftcher,  1887 


Braudai  Fanl,^Le  Hant-Mekong,  on  le  Laos  otivert. 
8vo.,  pp.  64.     Price  If.  2d,     (Duiau.) 

This  is  an  account  of  journeys  made  by  M,  Branda  in  1884:  and  1886  on  the 
Upijer  Mekong,  and  adds  something  to  our  knowledge  of  that  river  and  its 
vicinity.     It  contains  a  sketch-map  of  the  river  from  Sambok  to  Stnng-treng. 

[D* AraiEOlLl^Becoeil  de  iVoyages  et  de  Documents  pour  servir  k  THistoire  de  la 
Geo;2:raphie  depuis  ie  XIII"  jusqn'k  la  fin  dn  XVl^  siMe*  VIIL— Le  Voyage 
do  Monsieur  D'AramoD,  Ambassadenr  pour  le  Roy  en  Levant,  escript  par  noble 
hommc  Jean  Chesnean,  fun  des  secretaires  dudict  seigneur  ambaassadeur,  public 
ct  aonote  par  M.  Ch.  Schefer,  membre  de  rinatitut,  Paris,  L€foux,  1887  :  large 
8vo.,  pp.  Ixi.  and  295, 

Contains  reproductions  of  scene  of  the  original  plates. 
Hoche,  luleai — i^s    Pays    des    Croisades.      Paris:    A    La    Librairie    Illusfcr^e. 
[188U.]     Imp.  8vo.,  pp.  646.     Price  15s. 

The  chief  geographical  value  of  tliis  handsome  and  richly  ill  as  t  rafted  work 
lies  in  the  fiict  that  it  gives  a  very  complete  and  satisfactory  idea  of  the  actual 
condition  of  most  of  the  places  aod  sites  of  interest  in  Palestine.  There  is  besides 
a  vast  amonnt  of  historical,  antiqnarian,  and  ethnological  description.  The 
work  is  the  result  of  the  author's  own  journeya  through  the  country  of  the 
Crusades,  supplemented  by  research  in  various  authoritative  sonrccs.  There 
is  no  index,  and  no  Us t  of  illustrations,  and  so  far  as  we  observe,  only  the  small 
map,  that  of  Palestine, 

Japan  J— Memoirs  of  the  Literature  College,  Imperial  University  of  Japan,  Ko.  1. 
The  Language,  Mythology,  and  Geo^^raphical  Nomenclatnro  of  Japan  viewed  in  the 
light  of  Aino  Studies.  By  Basil  Hall  Chamberkin,  including  *An  Ainu  Gram- 
mar/ by  John  Batchelor,  and  a  catalogue  of  boiks  relating  to  Yezo  and  the  Ainog, 
1887,  published  by  the  Imperial  University,  Tokyo :  large  8vo.,  pp,  174.  [Pre- 
sented by  H.  Watanabe,  President  of  the  Imi>erial  University,  Toky5,  Japan.] 
Oliphant,  Laurence. — Haifa,  or  Life  in  Jlodem  Palestine.  Etlinburgh  &  London, 
BInckwood,  1887:  8vo,,  pp.  vi.  and  369.  Price  7s.  6cf.  [Presented  by  the 
Publisher,] 

Mr.  OHphant's  letters*  mainly  contributed  to  American  journals,  extend 
from  the  end  of  1882  to  the  end  of  1885.  Most  of  this  time  his  home  was  at 
Haifa,  on  the  Bay  of  Acre,  under  the  shadow  of  Mount  Carmel  From  this  he 
made  frequent  excursions  in  various  directions  to  places  of  antiquarian  and 
historical  interest.  His  observations  on  the  tojx>^raphy  of  the  country  around 
the  Sea  of  Galilee  are  of  special  utility.  His  letters  are  a  series  of  pictures  of 
the  life  of  the  jieopl©  among  whom  he  lived,  of  the  country  around,  and  of  its 
present  condition^  geographical,  social  and  industriaL  Mr,  Oliphant  lived  long 
enough  in  this  one  region  to  be  able  to  become  thoroughly  familiar  with  it,  and 
his  obeervationa  are  therefore  of  unusual  value. 


SEW  G£OG£APH]CAL  PUBLICATION'S.  317 

cp  6e  gvscnle  BesclTinen  ran  bet  Kssteei  Eat&r^,  16^-180S. 
Ullgiynii  door  bet  Bat&riattcb  Geccctscbap  rmzi  Kczsrcn  en  WeteosdiappaL 
Dade  DeeL    s\^nrecLbage,  IL  XijiK^;  ISSN'S:  4uk,  pp.  40$. 

ftrlnmirhfT   G.— DerDmobn.    Lnrzij,  Biedeker,  1^6:  Sto,  pp.  SOL    Ftioe 

Hot  StLiuuiiser  b  sn  cf^iixer,  leadent  in  Hiiia,  and  Las  done  much  good 
snrrcj  vock  in  Falestfne;.  Tbe  present  memoir  ccntains  a  Terr  complete  stodr 
ci  the  Jaclan  distnc:  to  tLe  east  and  north  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  which,  lor 
the  fint  time,  vas  scrreTed  br  Berr  ^h^unacher.  There  are  nunerous  ilins- 
tralvTrf  and  i^m\%  aDd  an  excklent  map,  cc  the  scale  of  1 :  132,000. 

AFRICA. 
AmmmltM  J. — ^Les  ExpiccmiSoos  an  Sene^  ec  dans  les  Gontrees  Toumet  depois 
L'A■t^aItf  juaqc  a  nos  joore.     Precede  d*ime  nocke  Ethnognphiqiie  war  Xoire 
ColoBie^  par  ]e  Geikeral  Faidherbe.      Fkris,  MaisoonecTv  Freres  ci  Ch.  Ledoc, 
lg86:  8Ta,pp.xLs*>d444.     Price  2iw  W.     (IhOam.) 

This  is  a  rsefd  sammarr  of  explontioos  in  the  Senegambian  region,  be- 
tveen  10^  and  2CP  S.  lat.  and  extenoing  inland  to  TlmbociG.  There  it  a  map 
CD  the  scale  cf  1 : 5,O>D,O0O,  shewing  the  itineraries  of  traTeDers. 

^^rtilir  H^  aad  &.  iTOM-^-De  Angola  a  OootnHCOsta.  Dttczipcio  de  imia 
ilipxi  aaaTez  do  Ccotmente  Afiricano  por  H.  Gipello  e  B.  Itcds.  2  toIs^ 
HAG^  Icpreosa  nackcal,  IS?^ 

Tbe  Fcnzgixse,  norviihssandin^  the  great  disooTcries  thej  made  in  the 
past,  hare  xuc  ini^nentlj  been  repvxnched  vith  not  baring  cootiibiited  to  our 
ksoiriedge  of  Aitica  to  an  extent  a:  all  oanmensmte  vith  the  rast  temtocies 
which  ihej  boli  or  claim  in  that  ccntincnt.  Tha:  reproadi,  hoverer,  cm  no 
longe*  be  friiir  krelkd  against  them.  The  exr^cntjoi^  carried  on  bj  math 
mes  as  Seipa  Pinto,  Capello  azid  Irens,  hare  rerr  matcTiallT  enlarged  oar 
knovledge,  aikd  altboo^  the  narratires  viuch  they  hire  pnhLished  mar  not 
be  entitled  V>  a  f^aoe  in  tLe  fiist  rsnk  ci  vorks  of  ibat  kind,  the  informatioa 
wkich  tber  cocrer  is  cf  a  verr  scbs^untiAl  nature,  and  their  raloe  not  merelT 
ephemesal  like  that  of  so  ma::  j  other  bc!cks  of  irsrel  with  which  the  market 
hag  of  reeest  reaxs  been  flooded. 

Mesoa.  CapeJk^  and  Irens  are  no  iKrSoes  as  African  exploreis.  Their  fanner 
jocraer,  of  which  ther  poWiihed  a  reooid  in  '  BenzneDa  to  the  tenitofj  of  the 
Tacci'  (London,  1$S2),  filled  np  SDsne  very  prc*Toking  bianks  on  oar  maps, 
and  CQ  the  present  oocasioii  thrr  hare  doDC  eq^ially  well,  if  not  better.  If  it 
was  not  in  thdr  power  lo  riral  a  Liringsume  or  a  Siankr  by  the  brilliancy  of 
their  ciflKyreries,  they  hare  at  all  erenis  laid  down  a  track  acniss  the  cod- 
tineot  which  may  sifely  be  trosted  ior  guidaooe. 

It  was  origiially  the  intention  of  the  anthovs  to  make  their  way  inland  firom 
FjndM^  hot  fining  the  ooTintzy  en  the  npper  Koroko  imptacticable^  they  shifted 
their  baas  of  operations  to  lloeaznedes^  and  |Tooeded  by  the  ordinazy  route  to 
Hnilla,  cromiiZ  the  Sbella  nxxmtains  at  an  eleradcn  cf  6000  faet«  the  hig^iest 
ahztnde  attained  throo^oat  their  jcmmey  across  the  oontinesit.  The  enriroos 
of  Hinlla  (5f»69  feet)  are  described  as  being  admiraKy  adapted  for  European 
settlement,  tie  climate  besng  heshhy  and  agreeable,  and  the  soil  prododng 
nearly  eroything.  Odc  great  crswback,  the  difficulty  if  ocanmanisating  with 
the  ciast,  may  be  orenxone  in  coGrse  of  time.  After  as  excursion  to  Kipungo, 
the  **  lind  of  miliet.**  the  expuorers  proceeded  by  a  well-known  route  to  Hmnhe 
(3500  feet;  on  the  Kimene,  and  then  ascending  tbe  broad  and  swampy  raUey  of 
that  riro-  as  ^  as  Eitere,  they  crossed  it  ai  a  s{«i>t  where  it  is  confined  within 
high  banks.  Its  width  there  is  100  tc.  100  yards,  its  depth  abont  eigjit  feet,  and 
it  appears  to  be  navig&ble  throc^xTct  the  year.  A  joanxy  through  a  deserted 
cunniiT  then  led  th«n  to  tbe  nndnlaxing  plaiean  of  Hands,  since  oocnpied  by 
Bo(man  Gathouic  misBonaries,  and  prtrviou&Iy  risit^  by  IL  Dafocr,  aad  }pr 
sereral  tzaders  ocming  from  Orambo  Laitd.  Mica-schist  and  Lanrentian  gneass 
are  oreriaid  hae  bv  dar,  IrmfBlnnffi^  and  sandstones  of  tertiazy  and  aeooDdarv 

2  A  2  ■ 


S18 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUCATIONS. 


age ^  and  iLdiciitions  of  mineral  wtalth  are  not  wanting.  The  livers  are  partly 
jieriodiciil,  ad  they  are  further  soulb^  and  the  explorers  distinguish  between 
"  Damlms"  or  torrent  l>eda,  along  which  the  water  flows  at  all  times  in  the  same 
direction,  and  '*  MoIoIhk/  along  which  it  flows  io  contrary  directions,  according  to 
the  state  of  tbo  flood  in  the  rivers  with  which  they  are  connected.  A  eireful 
Bnrvey  of  one  or  more  of  ihese  jieiiodical  river-beds  is  a  great  liesidcratnm. 

On  July  11th  the  explorers  arrived  on  the  Kuban  go,  about  120  yards  wide, 
and  flowing  between  prettily  wooded  banks.  The  Ambuella,  w^ho  live  in  the 
villages  alon^^  it«  left  hank,  are  physically  8n|K?rior  to  the  tribes  nearer  the 
coast*  They  dress  in  cloth  ins  tend  of  in  hides  ;  are  good  musicians,  dexterotis 
smithis,  ji^ood  agriculturists,  and  expert  flt^hermen.  Their  huts  are  circular, 
with  pointed  roofs.  Manioc,  njiUct,  and  batatas  are  the  principal  crops  grown^ 
Cattle  are  scarce. 

The  western  section  of  the  country,  exteniliiig  between  the  Kuban  go  and 
th©  Upfier  Zambezi  or  Liambai,  is  a  sterile  waste  of  sand,  but  further  east  the 
steppe  bears  a  luxuriant  vegetation  durin";  the  rRiny  seasons,  when  it  is  th© 
resort  of  va&t  mumkrs  of  zebras,  gungas  (Boaelephas  otmw),  buffaloes,  gUTis,  and 
gazelles,  which  during  the  dry  season  retire  to  the  rivers.  The  population  ia 
scarce,  and  the  inhabitants  raise  Iheir  houi=ea  on  piles,  in  the  midst  of  sworn  pat, 
as  a  security  against  the  predatory  Manbuoda  and  Makha.  The  resources  of  the 
whole  of  this  region  are  {x>or,  and  the  vast  swamps  aiijoining  the  Zambezi  are 
hardly  passable  during  the  rainy  season.  The  greatest  altitude  attained 
between  the  Kuljango  (3700  feet)  and  the  Liambai  (3230  feet)  was  4062  feet. 

On  December  13th  the  Liamliai  was  crossed  near  Libontn,and  the  travellers 
having  followed  itB  valley  until  they  were  well  within  the  borders  of  the  empire 
of  the  Muata  Yamvo,  turned  lo  the  norlh-eastward,  and  reached  the  Kaboinpa 
river,  one  of  the  principal  tributaries  of  the  Liambai,  but  not  the  main  stream, 
as  has  sometimea  been  supposed.  The  river  had  a  widtli  of  about  200  yards, 
and  its  greeniah  waters  flowed  along  with  a  velocity  of  three  miles  an  hour. 
Crccc^diles  abounded.  Following  the  course  of  this  river,  the  explorers  speedily 
found  themselves  in  a  vast  forest  region,  frequented  by  occastonal  elephant- 
hunters,  but  almost  devoid  of  permanent  inhabitants.  The  iiardabipa  of  a 
march  through  such  a  region  were  increased  by  the  preseoce  of  the  tsetse,  to 
whose  stings  the  riding-oxen  soon  fell  victims.  Several  of  the  j>orters  died 
from  exhaustion,  and  the  caravan  only  escaped  a  more  serious  disaster  through 
its  timely  arrival  at  the  village  of  the  Muen©  Kaojinga  (3903  feet),  a  clriirf 
still  owing  alle;iiance  to  the  Muata  Yamvo.  Shortly  before  this,  the  Lualaha, 
whose  baisiu  iulerlnces  curiously  with  ihat  of  the  Zambezi,  had  been  crossed 
near  its  source,  and  we  are  told  that  the  natives  look  ujx>n  this  river  as  the  real 
"  head'*  of  the  Zaire,  to  which  the  Luupula  is  merely  a  tributury.  CTeographers, 
however,  with  the  mfip  of  Atrica  spread  out  be 'ore  them,  will  hardly  be 
prepftrcd  to  accept  this  view,  Ked  loam  predominates  throughout  this  ioland 
region,  bei*ides  whicii  the  explorers  nolicetl  mie4i-schist,  irou-cires,  and,  on  one 
occa«ion,  clinkstone,  a  volcanic  rock,  apparently  of  post- tertiary  age. 

Having  crosstd  the  wooded  hills  of  Kitangule  and  some  tributaries  of  the 
Kafue,  the  rsplorer^,  on  October  L'Srd,  entered  the  basin  of  the  Zaire,  and  eight 
days  afterwards  arrivet!  in  the  prettily  wooded  district  of  Takata  (4134  Jeet), 
with  wh<.>se  chief,  Muene  Ntenke,  they  af>eedity  established  cordial  relations. 
They  were  now  within  the  limits  of  the  empire  which  Msiri,  a  native  of 
Unyarawezi  (called  Ukalaganja  or  Garangauza  by  the  western  tribes),  has 
carved  himself  out  of  the  ancient  dominions  of  the  Kazcrabe,  and  which  extends 
trom  Lake  Klkonja  and  Uroa  in  the  nortii  to  the  Mushinga  mountains  in  the 
south,  and  from  the  LupJaba  eastward  to  the  Luupula.  This  vast  region  is  by 
no  means  devoid  of  natuml  wealth,  but  it  has  been  dejxipulated  by  war,  and  the 
tiaveller  soinelimes  spends  days  on  the  march  without  encountering  a  single 
human  being.  After  some  much -needed  rest  Captain  Ivens  started  for  the 
residence  ol  ilsiri.  His  mute  letl  through  a  country  of  picturesque  hills,  and 
jxist  Kalabij  ono  of  the  famous  copper-miQca  of  Katanga,  the  produce  from 
which,  in  the  shai>e  of  ingots,  bracelets,  and  wire,  tiuds  its  way  westward  as 
far  as  Bihe.  Palii?o3ioic  sch^ts  prevail  thonghout  this  region,  and  in  addition 
to  malachite  and  iron-ores.  Captain  Ivena  discovered  coal. 


4 

1 
I 

4 


4 


HSW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUGATIONS.  819 

The  **  Kimpata  *"  of  Msiri,  in  the  district  of  Buukea,  is  approacbcd  throagh 
«  perfect  labyrinth  of  narrow  lanes  planted  with  eaphorluas,  and  decorated  at 
intervals  widi  trophies  of  human  skalls,  every  one  of  which  has  a  history 
attached  to  it,  proclaiming  the  detestable  craelty  of  this  parvenn  amcmg  African 
rulers.  Permission  to  proceed  to  Kazembe^s  town,  or  even  to  visit  the  western 
shore  of  Lake  Moero,  having  been  refused,  on  the  ground  of  the  unsettled 
state  of  the  country.  Captain  Ivens  rejoined  his  companion  at  Ntenke^s,  and 
they  resolved  to  make  their  w%y  to  the  Luapula. 

The  intervening  region  is  a  wooded  wilderness,  almost  deserted  of  men,  but 
abounding  in  elephants.  The  hills  are  composed  of  gneiss;  the  more  level 
tracts  are  covered  with  loam,  frequently  dyed  red  with  oxide  of  iron.  Having 
snccesavely  crossed  the  Lufira,  which  flows  to  the  north,  and  the  Loenge  or 
Upper  Kafne  (4637  feet),  which  is  tributary  to  the  Zambezi,  the  Luapula  was 
reached  at  length.  It  takes  its  course  through  a  fringe  of  forest,  and  has  a 
width  of  about  600  yards.  Kinyame,  the  chief  of  the  Ma-ussi,  on  its  further 
bank,  turned  out  to  be  a  ''good  man,  with  whom  many  days  were  spent 
happily,**  although  he  looked  upon  his  visitors  as  spies  of  Msiri,  and  conse* 
quently  refused  them  permission  to  visit  Lake  Bangweolo  or  to  trace  the 
Luapula  to  Lake  Moero.  This  restriction  of  their  movements  prevented  the 
Portuguese  explorers  from  joining  their  work  with  that  of  Lieut.  Giraud.  Some- 
what reluctantly  they  turned  to  the  south,  and  almost  immediately  they  entered 
a  deserted  wilderness,  through  which  they  travelled  for  140  miles  without  en- 
countering a  single  human  being.  At  length,  after  suffering  much  hardship, 
they  stood  upon  the  brink  of  the  Mushinga  range  (about  3600  feet),  and  looked 
down  upon  an  extensive  lowland  which  lay  1300  feet  beneath  them.  Accus- 
tomed as  they  had  been  to  travel  over  comparatively  level  ground,  the  steep 
descent  proved  very  trying.  They  were  very  much  struck  by  the  contrast 
between  the  verdure-clad  tableland,  with  its  woods  of  acacias,  mupandas 
(Brachyttegia  iamarindoides),  and  other  trees,  and  the  bumt-up  plain  beneath. 
For  the  first  time  since  leaving  Kapangombe,  at  the  foot  of  the  Sheila  moun- 
tains, they  saw  Bauhinias,  baobabs,  gonga-trees,  thorn-trees,  as  also  hyi^iasnas 
and  Livingstonia  palms.  The  villages  lay  in  the  midst  of  extensive  plantations 
of  sorgho,  and  lofty  scaffoldings  rose  around  them,  occupied  day  and  night  by 
watchmen,  whose  duty  it  is  to  scare  away  wild  beasts. 

The  2iambezi  was  reached  on  April  26th,  at  a  spot  about  40  miles  below  its 
confluence  with  the  Kafue,  and  thence  to  Quilimane  the  explorers  followed,  with 
some  slight  variations,  the  route  which  Livingstone  took  during  his  memorable 
journey  in  1856.    On  June  24th  they  stood  on  the  shore  of  the  Indian  Ocean. 

The  maps  which  accompany  the  narrative  are  drawn  on  the  uniform  scale  of 
1  in  1,000,000.  They  are  evidently  based  upon  a  careful  itinerary  survey  adjusted 
to  67  observed  latitudes,  and  57  longitudes.  The  latter  are  all  of  them  determined 
by  chronometer,  for  Captain  Ivens  lost  his  telescope,  which  precluded  him  from 
availing  himself  of  eclipses  of  Jupiter's  satellites,  and  he  looks  upon  lunars  as 
'*  impracticable."  He  took,  indeed,  forty  sets  of  lunars  when  on  the  Luapula, 
but  finding  that  the  results  differed  to  the  extent  of  30  min.  he  rejected  tnem 
altogether.  Comparing  Captain  Ivens's  longitudes  with  those  previously  deter- 
mined on  the  liiambai,  by  Dr.  Livingstone  and  Captain  Serpa  Pinto,  it  is 
gratifying  to  find  that  the  agreement  with  the  latter  is  absolute,  while 
Livingstone's  result  differs  to  the  extent  of  nine  miles  only.  On  the  lower 
Zamb^i  likewise  the  agreement  with  Livingstone  is  equally  satisfactory,  the 
difference,  in  the  case  of  Tete,  amounting  to  five  miles  only.  1 1  is  therefore  some- 
what startling  to  find  that  Lienzo,  on  the  Kuti,  which  Serpa  Pinto  places  by 
observation  in  latitude  14°  42'  S.,  longitude  20°  25'  E.,  should  occupy  latitude 
14°  38'  S.,  longitude  20°  52'  E.  on  Capello  and  Ivens's  map.  In  that  section  of 
the  country  which  adjoins  the  Luapula,  the  Portuguese  explorers  are  sub- 
stantially in  agreement  with  Lieutenant  Giraud,  who  shifted  the  Kazembe's  capital 
thirty  miles  to  the  east  of  the  point  assigned  to  that  place  by  Dr.  Livingstone. 

A  very  full  list  of  altitudes  is  given  in  the  appendix,  but  as  the  geograp^od 
co-ordinates  of  the  tables  have  in  many  instances  been  rejected  on  the  maps,  we 
are  frequently  left  in  doubt  as  to  the  exact  locality  to  which  the  altitudes  apply. 
The  great  feature  brought  out  by  these  hypsometrical  observations  is  the  uni- 


320 


XEW  GECK3RAPHICAL  PUBLICATIO.NS. 


formity  in  tlie  heiglit  of  the  tAbleland  of  Central  A.frjca.  The  greatest  altitude 
attained  by  the  explorers  (6001  feet)  was  on  tbe  Sheila  mountain,  and  tbeoce, 
as  far  as  I  he  iliishinga  range,  whicli  fomis  tbe  edge  of  the  plateau,  they  never 
descended  helow  3000  feet,  nor  do  they  ever  apjjear  to  have  ascended  a  height 
exceeding  5000  feet  afttr  ihey  bad  left  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  Huila. 
Their  lowest  point  (3232  feet)  was  on  the  Liambai,  their  highest  (4885)  between 
that  river  and  the  Luapnla, 

The  meteorolo^ica]  journal  was  kept  with  much  care.  Observations  were 
usually  recorded  ihrice  daily,  and  extended  to  temperature,  atmospheric  pres- 
sure, moisture,  direction  and  force  of  the  vind  and  hours  of  raiafalL 

Frost  was  recorded  on  ive  niinhts  in  June  and  July,  when  the  travellers 
were  l>etweeu  15°  50'  and  1G°  S.  lat.,  and  at  an  altitude  of  3700  to  4000  feet 
above  the  sea.  In  the  heart  of  the  con  line  nt,  between  latitudes  11°  and  12,°  S,, 
the  rains  eet  in  about  the  end  of  September,  and  grow  heavier,  and  more 
frequent  in  proportion  as  the  aun  approaches  the  southern  tropic,  attaming  a 
niasininm  in  December.  In  January  there  is  a  slight  decrease,  but  a  second 
maximum  is  attained  in  February.  By  the  end  of  March  they  cease.  Bains 
are  brought  by  south-easterly  and  north-easterly  winds. 

Themagnetical  observatiuna  made  at  twenty-two  stations  are  of  considerable 
importance,  and  extend  to  variation,  dip,  horizontal  force,  and  total  intensity. 
Lists  and  descriptions  of  the  zoological,  botanical,  and  mineralogical  specimens 
collected  are  given  in  an  append ix« 

The  illustrations  throughout    the    work  are  excellent  and   trastwortby, 

many  of  them  bein^  taken  from  photographs. 

Oamblei  John  G. — Catalogue  of  Printed   Books  and   Pa|>crs  relating  to  South 

Africa.    Fart  IL    Climate  and  Meteorology,    Cape  Town,  W.  A.  Richards  &  Sons, 

1885 ;  8vo.,  pp,  xl.     [Presented  by  John  G.  Gamble,  Esq.] 

~^—  Altitudes  above  Sea  Level  of  places  in  South  Africa  south  of  20°    S. 

I^ititude,  collected  by  John  G.  Gamble.     Cape  Town,  W.  A.  Richards  &  Sons, 

1886  :  8vo.,  pp.  28.     [Prefiente<i  by  J.  G.  Gamble,  Esq,] 

Schwarz,  [Dr.]  BemllBrd-^KamernD.  lieise  in  der  Hinterlande  der  KoUmie. 
Leipzig,  Frohberg,  1680  :  8vo,,  pp.  358.     Price  lOf.     (Dulau.) 

Dr.  Schwarz  visited  the  Kameroons  in  1885--6.  He  made  a  laud  journey 
into  the  interior  by  the  east  danks  of  the  mountains,  and  as  far  as  the  foot  of 
the  Bafunimi  Mountains,  returning  by  tbe  river.  The  book  is  largely  descriptive 
in  character,  but  at  the  same  time  contains  solid  information  conceratng  tb© 
districts  and  the  people  visited  by  Dr.  Schwarz.  There  is  a  good  map  of  the 
region  on  tbe  scale  of  1 :  600,000. 

AMERICA. 

[America,  ITnited  States.]— Department  of  the  Interior.  United  States  Geo- 
logical Survey,  J.  W.  Powell,  Director.  Bulletin  of  the  United  States 
Geological  Survey,  Nos.  30-33,  Washington,  Government  Printing  Office,  1886; 
8vo.,  plates.     [Presented  by  the  Director  of  the  U.S.  Geological  Survey.] 

No,  30,— Second  Contribution  to  the  Studies  on  the  Cambrian  Faunas  of 
North  America,  by  Charies  Doolittle  Walcolt.  No.  31.— Systematic  Review  of 
onr  prtsent  knowledge  of  Fossil  Insects,  including  Myriapods  and  Arachnids,  by 
Samuel  Hubbard  Scud  der.  No.  32,— Lists  and  Analyses  of  the  Mineral  Springs 
'  of  the  United  States,  [A  Preliminary  Siudy]  by  Albert  C.  Peale,  M.D.  No. 
33.^-Notes  on  the  Geology  of  Northern  California,  by  J.  S.  Diller. 

[Argentine  Eepublic.]— Anuario  Bibliogrifico  de  la  Repdblica  Arjentina.   Afio  VII 
— 1885.     Fuadador  Alberto  Navarro  Viola.    Buenos  Aires,  Iran,  de  M,  Bie 
1886 :  12mo.,  pp.  486  and  xlvi. 

Hort,  [Mrs.]  Alfred.— Via  Nicaragua.  A  sketch  of  Travel.    London,  Be] 

1887  ;  8vo.,  p.  207.     Price  7a.  Gd.    [Presented  liy  the  Publisher.] 
This  is  an  old  story  of  a  journey  to  San  Fiaucisco  vid  Nir» 

to  Panama,  evidently   before   the  dn3^s  of  r^ieific  roib 


4 
4 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUCATIONS.  321 

lively,  and  gives  a  good  picture  of  the  discomforts  of  travel  in  those  days, 
but  there  is  little  information  of  geographical  interest. 

[Lake  Lahontan.] — United  States  Greographical  Survey.  Geological  History  of 
Lake  Lahontan,  a  Quaternary  Lake  of  North-western  Nevada.  By  Israel  Cook 
Russell.  Washington,  Government  Printing  Office,  1885 :  4to.,  pp.  xiv.  and  288. 
[Presented  by  the  Director  of  the  Survey.] 

There  is  much  in  this  work  that  is  of  interest  to  the  geographer  as  well  as 
the  geologist.  The  numerous  magnificent  illustrations  and  maps  especially 
render  it  of  great  geographical  value. 

[Panama]. — Le  Canal  de  Panama  en  1886.    Rapport  pr^sentd  par  M.  Jules  Ch. 

Rous,  D^Mgu^  et  Membre  de  la  Chambre  de  Commerce,  Marseille.   1886 :  4to., 

pp.  131.     [Presented  by  M.  Roux.] 

M.  lioux,  who  is  President  of  the  Marseilles  Geographical  Society,  was  sent 
out  by  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  of  Marseilles  in  the  early  part  of  last  year  to 
report  on  the  works  in  connection  with  the  Panama  Canal.  He  had  every 
facility  for  obtaining  information  on  the  actxial  state  of  the  works,  and  his 
report  is  therefore  of  considerable  practical  value.  It  contains  forty-five  large- 
sized  photographic  illustrations  of  places  and  persons,  which  render  it  of  some 
geographical  value. 

SiniBOn,  Alfred. — Travels  in  the  Wilds  of  Ecuador  and  the  exploration  of  the 
Putumayo  River.  London,  Sampson  Low  &  Co.,  1886 :  8vo.,  pp.  v.  and  270. 
Price  8».  Od.    [Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 

Mr.  Simson,  while  staying  at  Guayaquil,  was  attracted  by  the  mystery 
surrounding  the  Eastern  (Oriental)  Province  of  Ecuador.  This  was  the  scene 
of  Gonzalo's  (the  youngest  and  most  brilliant  of  the  Pizarros)  romantic  expedi- 
tion to  the  river  Napo,  during  which  he  was  deserted  by  his  second  in  com- 
mand, Orellana,  who  descended  the  Amazons,  returned  to  Europe,  and  claimed 
the  whole  merit  and  reward  of  the  discovery  for  himself.  This  region  had 
remained  practically  unvisited,  except  by  Jesuit  missionaries,  who  published 
nothing  concerning  it  to  the  world,  from  that  time  (1541)  until  now.  It  was 
a  task,  therefore,  worthy  of  Mr.  Simson*s  energetic  and  adventurous  character 
to  explore  this  region,  and  the  present  work  is  the  creditable  result. 

The  first  difficulties  were  the  double  line  of  Andine  passes  (the  Sierra  and 
the  Cordillera),  which  he  successfully  surmounted,  chiefiy  on  foot,  and  reached 
the  eastern  watershed,  which  is  practically,  as  far  as  the  boundaries  in  these 
regions  permit  of  definition,  the  Oriental  Province.  Across  this  province  he 
penetrated,  still  on  foot,  through  dense  forests,  until  he  reached  the  river  Napo, 
which  he  descended  in  canoes,  to  Iquitos,  an  important  town  and  port  on  the 
Upper  Amazons. 

At  this  point,  after  five  months*  arduous  labour,  he  had  successfully  achieved 
his  original  design.  The  delays  and  dangers  through  which  he  had  already 
passed — flooded  rivers,  savage  Indians,  attacks  of  sickness,  villages  decimated 
or  deserted  in  consequence  of  small-pox,  more  dreaded  than  any  other  scourge — 
ought  to  have  satiated  the  most  robust  appetite  for  adventure.  But  it  was  not 
so  with  our  traveller.  He  casually  met  near  Iquitos  a  Brazilian  in  command 
of  an  expedition  to  explore  the  River  Pntumayo,  or  19a,  and  accepted  his 
invitation  to  join  it.  He  took  a  very  prominent  and  dangerous  post,  being 
placed  in  command  of  the  pioneer  steamer,  which  preceded  and  selected  the 
channel  for  the  larger  one  which  followed.  He  successfully  ascended  the 
Putumayo  900  miles.  This  interesting  expedition  is  described  in  Chapters 
XYII.  and  XYIIL,  and  although  Mr.  Simson  is  chary  of  giving  dates,  this 
fact  enables  us  to  fix  the  period  of  his  journey  at  about  ten  or  eleven  years 
ago. 

The  book  is  full  of  information  of  great  interest  and  novelty  con- 
cerning the  scenery,  the  Jesuit  missionaries,  the  Indians,  both  civilised  and 
barbarous,  and  the  natural  history  of  the  regions  through  which  Mr.  Simson 
passed.  We  do  not  remember  to  have  met  with  anything  more  striking  than  his 
description  on  psges  131  and  132  of  the  ravages  of  vampire  bats  at  Aguano  on 


S22  X£W  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 

\\iii  Xajo,  Tb€  Diap  U  quite  unworlby  of  tlie  book,  and  of  eo  service  in 
lollowiDg  Mr.  Sinisoii^H  journejfl.  In  taking  It-ave  of  this  delightful  traveller, 
we  camiiot  refraiu  from  expreshingi  tbe  hope  thftt^  though  tea  years  have  now 
elapsed  since  bis  jouruey,  the  spiiit  umy  move  bim  to  explore  fioiiie  other 
unknown  pnrt  of  South  America,  and  giyt;  ms  an  equally  useful  and  inteJejling 
account  of  his  adventures,— =[C.  MJ 

[United  States,  &c.]^Brad*haw*ii  A.B.C.  Dictionary  to  the  United  States,  Canada 
atjci  Mexico,  showing  the  most  important  towns  and  points  of  interest  London, 
Triibnt  r,  1880  i  8vo,,  pp.  304,     [Presented  by  tbe  Pablishers.] 

^I  bis  contains  much  useful  information  in  a  handy  form.  Canada,  however, 
nceive**  very  meagre  treatment,  the  space  being  mainly  devoted  to  ihe  eastern 
provinct'S.     Mexico  h  treated  In  much  greater  detail. 

?       ARCTIC. 

^Greenland  j— Oliservations  Internationales  Pi>laircs,  1882-83.  Expedition  DanoiFe. 
(Jbiscrvations  faites  &  Godthaab  sous  la  direction  de  Adam  Paulsen.  Fublides  pfir 
r  I  us  I  i  tut  Me'teorologiqtie  do  Dane  mark.  Tome  iL^l""  LiTraisoQ.  Copenhagen, 
G.  E.  C.  Gad,  1886.    [Presented  by  the  luBtituteJ 

This  volume  is  mainly  occupied  with  tahles  of  atmospheric  pressure,  and  ebb 
ami  flow  of  the  tide.  Observai  ions  were  made  for  the  longitude  of  God tbaab, 
the  mean  result  being  Sh.  26m,  &4s.  W.  of  Greenwich. 

AUSTllALASIA. 

Xustralia,  Western,— I^q>ort  by  the  Director  of  Public  Worka  on  the  Public 
Works*  of  tiic  Colony,  fur  the  year  1885.  Perth,  K.  Pether,  Government  Printer, 
1886:  folio,  pp.  24. 

The  Apf)endix  consists  of  Mr.  H.  S.  Carey's  Report  on  the  Telegraph  Line 
from  Northampton  to  Roebourne,  and  the  Extension  frtim  Roobourne  to  Cossack, 
which  contains  some  useful  information  on  the  country  etnbraoed,  illustrated  by 
a  map. 

British  Kew  Guinea.— Issued  by  Messrs.  Bums,  Pbilp  &  Co*  Sydney,  printed 
by  John  Woods  &  Co,,  1886;  4to.^  pp.  36,  illustrations.  Price  6d.  [Presented 
by  Theodore  F.  Be  van,  Esq.] 

OCEANIA. 

Eager,  Carl.  Die  Marahall-Inseln,  in  Erd-  nnd  Volkeikunde,  Handel  und  Messeo. 
Mit  einem  Anliang;  Die  Gilbert- Inseln.  Leipzig,  Lingke  :  8ro.,  pp,  iv.  and 
157.     Price  2s.  Sd,     (Dulau,) 

This  is  a  summary  of  what  is  known  concerning  the  Marshall  Islands, 
apropos  of  recent  German  enterprises  in  the  Western  Pacific.  There  is  a  shtrt 
mtroduction  on  Micronesia  and  an  Appendix  on  the  Gilbert  Islands. 

GENERAL. 
Albert  de  Monaco,  [Prince]. — ^Sur  le  Guir*Stream,  Eechercbes  pour  tf  taUir  ses 
liapports  avec  la  Ct^te  de    France.     Campiagne  de  Tliironddh^  1886.     Paris, 
Gautbier-Vilhifs,  188t> :  large  8vo,,  pp.  41,  maps. 
Bastian,  Adolf.^ — 2ur  Lebre  von  den  Geogmpluschen  Provinzen.     Berlin,  Mittler 
uiai  ISohn,  188G  t  8vo,,  pp.  xxv.  and  118.     Price  2s.  ^d.     (Dulau,) 

Dr.  Bastian  discusses  in  this  brochure  the  subject  of  tbe  division  of  the 
earth's  surface  into  geographical  provinces,  involvii^g  tbe  question  of  the 
influence  of  geographical  surroundings  on  mankind.  He  brings  much  leamiiip 
tM  bear  on  the  discussion,  and  introduces  a  perpkxing  multitude  of  refereEces  and 
fjuotations* 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUCATIOXS.  323 

Campbell,  [Sir]  George  [M.P.]— The  British  Empire.  ;Cas8tll&  Company  [1887]: 
bvo.,  pp.  viii.  and  184.    Price  3».    [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

In  this  little  volume,  Sir  George  Campbell  deals  with  the  various  classes  of 
dependencies  of  the  British  Government, —  India,  Crown  Colonies,  Territorial  Com- 
panies, Protectorates,  mainly  from  the  political  or  Imperial  point  of  view.  Such 
questions  as  federation,  emigration,  and  our  relations  to  other  colonising  nations, 
are  discussed ;  Africa  receives  a  chapter  to  itself. 

[Colonial  Exhibition.] — Reports  on  the  Colonial  Section  of  the  Exhibition.  Issued 
under  the  supervision  of  the  Council  of  the  Society  of  Arts,  and  edited  by  H. 
Trueman  Wood,  m.a..  Secretary.  London,  Clowes,  1887 :  8va,  pp.  v.  and  505. 
Price  10«.  6(i.    [Presented  by  direction  of  H.R.H.  the  Prince  of  Wales.] 

This  volume  contains  a  series  of  reports,  twenty-three  in  all,  on  the  leading 

products  shown  at  the  recent  Colonial  and  Indian  Exhibition.     Those  of  most 

geographical  interest  seem  to  us  to  be  Mining  Industries,  by  Dr.  Le  Neve  Foster ; 

Grain,  by  Mr.  Proctor  Baker ;  Tea,  by  Mr.  A.  G.  Stanton  ;  Coffee,  by  Mr.  H. 

Pasteur ;  Wines,  &c.,  by  Mr.  R.  Bannister ;  Tobacco,  by  Dr.  G.  Watt  and  Mr. 

J.  McCarthy ;  Wools,  by  F.  H.  Bowman ;  Silk,  by  Mr.  J.  Wardle ;  Timber,  by 

Messrs.  F.  Leslettand  Allen  Ransome. 

Pitz-Patrick.— An  Autunm  Cruise  in  the  ^gean:  or  Notes  of  a  Voyage  in  a 
Sailing  Yacht.  London,  Sampson  Low  &  Co.,  1886 :  8vo.,  pp.  x.  and  316. 
Price  10».  6d,    [Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 

The  cruise  here  recorded  was  made  in  the  autumn  of  1885.  Besides 
Athens  and  other  places  in  Greece,  about  which  and  its  antiquities  we  are  told 
much,  several  of  the  ^gean  Islands  were  visited,  and  a  good  many  places 
on  and  near  the  coast  of  Asia  Minor.  Although  the  ground  gone  over  is  not 
new,  Mr.  Fitz-Patrick,  who  tells  his  story  attractively,  has  many  notes  on  the 
present  condition  of  things,  as  well  as  on  the  past,  which  render  his  book 
instructive.  It  will  be  useful  to  those  who  think  of  following  his  example. 
There  is  a  good  map  of  the  ^gean  legion. 

Jahrbacher  der   K.  K.   Central-Anstalt  (lir  Meteorologie  und  Erdmagnetismus. 

Officielle  Publication.      Jahrgang  1885.      Neue  Folge,  XXII.  Band.      Wien, 

Wilhelm  Braumiiller,  1886 :  4to. 
Journal  of  the  College  of  Science,  Imperial  University,  Japan.     Vol.  I^  part  I. 

Published  by  the  University,  TokyO,  1886 :  large  8vo.,  pp.  112,  plates.    [Pre- 

sentcd  by  the  Imperial  University',  TOkyO,  Japan.] 

Palestine  Pilgrinui'  Text  Society. — Of  the  Holy  Places  visited  by  Antoninus 
Martyr  (Circ.  530  a.d.).  Translated  by  Aubrey  Stewart,  m.a.,  and  Annotated 
by  Col.  Sir  C.  W.  Wilson,  b.k.     London,  1885 :  8vo.,  pp.  viii.  and  44,  maps. 

The  Pilgrimage  of  the  Holy  Paula.    By  St.  Jerome.    Translated  by  Aubrey 

Stewart,  m.a.,  and  Annotated  by  Col.  Sir  C.  W.  Wilson,  k.c.m.o.,  &c.  London, 
1885  :  8vo.,  pp.  viii.  and  16,  map. 

Of  the  Buildings  of  Justinian.    By  Procopius  (circ.  560  A.D.).    Translated  by 

Aubrey  Stewart,  mjl.,  and  Annotated  by  Col.  Sir  C.  W.  Wilson,  B.E.,  &c,  and  Prof. 
Hayter  Lewis,  F.8.A.  London,  1886 :  8va,  pp.  viii.  and  178,  maps,  plana,  plates. 
Description  of  Syria,  including  Palestine.     By  Mukaddasi  (circ.  985  A.D.). 


Translated  from  the  Arabic  and  Annotated  by  Guy  le  Strange.    London,  1886 : 
8vo.,  pp.  xvi.  and  64,  map  and  plans. 

Itinerary  from  Bordeaux  to  Jerusalem.    *  The  Bordeaux  Pilgrim  '  (333  A.D.). 


Translated  by  Aubrey  Stewart,  Esq.,  M.A.,  and  Annotated  by  Col.  Sir  C.  W. 
Wilson,  K.C.B.,  &c.    London,  1887  :  8vo.,  pp.  xii.  and  116,  plans. 

Stephen,  Leslie.— Dictionary  of  National  Biography.  VoLX.    Chamber — ClarksoD. 
London,  Smith,  Elder  &  Co.,  1887  :  8vo.,  pp.  vL  and  456.    Price  12«.  6d. 


324 


NEW  GEOGHAPHICAL  PaBLICATIONS. 


[TasmanJ  Alwl  Jaoszoon  TaBrDBu.  Door  Mr.  Cb.  M,  Doz}%  In  Bijdragen 
lot  de  TaaU  Land-  en  Yolkerkunde  vati  Kederlaiidfiche-Iudiu,  5'^*  Volgreeks, 
2,^  Dee\,  2^  Allevering.     's  GraveDliAge,  Nijlioff,  1887. 

This  paper  is  a  welcome  addition  to  the  little  that  we  know  of  the 
person tl  life  of  Tasmnn,  as  \vg\1  as  to  the  sources  of  information  we  posBesB 
concerning  his  work  as  an  explorer, 

[The  *  ChaHeager  *  VoyageO— I*^^port  on  the  Scientific  Reaults  of  the  Voyage 
of  H,M,S.  'Cballeuger*  during  the  years  1873-76,  under  the  command  of  CaptaiQ 
George  S.  Nare»,  r.n.,  f.k.i^,  and  the  late  Captain  Fraak  Tonrle  Thomson,  B,&% 
Prepared  under  the  auperiiitendcnce  of  the  late  Sir  0.  Wyville  TboinM)n,  kt-, 
F,B»8.,  &c.,  and  now  of  John  Murray,  one  of  the  Naturalists  of  the  Expedition, 
Zoology— Vol  XVIL  London,  Eyre  &  Spottiawoode,  188G :  4to.,  pp.  Yiii.,  178, 
L,  362,  viii.  and  47,  chart  and  plates.  Price  40a.  [Presented  by  the  Lords 
ConimiiJaiouera  of  Her  Majesty's  Treasury.] 

[ -2  ^'^^^o.     Botany— YoL  IL      London,  Longmans  &  Co.,  &c.,  1886:  4to., 

pp.  iii,  and  17B,  plates.     Price  15*.     [Presented  by  ditto.] 

Boport  on  the  Scientiic  Results  of  the  Voyage  of  E.M.S.  Challenger  during 

the  years  1873-76,  under  the  command  of  Captain  George  S.  Narea>  e,n.,  f.r,8., 
and  the  late  Captain  Frank  Tourle  Thomson,  r.n.  Prepared  nnder  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  late  Sir  C,  Wyville  Thomson,  kxt*,  f.b.s,^  5rc,,  and  now  of  John 
Murray,  one  of  the  naturalists  of  the  Expedition,  Zoology — VoU  XVII I.  (in 
Two  Parts,  with  a  Volume  of  Plates)  and  XIX,  Loudon,  Eyre  &  Si>ottis- 
woode,  1887  :  4to,  Price.(Vol  XVIll.)  bL  lOs.,  (Vol.  XIX.)  25«.  [Presented 
by  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  Her  Majesty^s  Treasury.] 

[The  East] — Nouveaux  Melanges  Orientaux.  Memoires,  Textes  et  Traductions 
puliliiSs  par  lea  Professeura  de  llicole  Sp*k!iab  des  Langnes  Orientales  Vivantes  k 
rOccasion  du  Scptieme  Congres  InternatioDal  des  Orientidistes  retmi  k  Vienna 
(Sept.  1886).  Pari«,  Imprimerie  Nationale,  1886 ;  imp.  8vo.,  pp,  liv,  and  698. 
[Presented  by  the  French  Minister  of  Public  Instruction.] 

ITie  section  of  most  geographical  interest  in  this  volume  is  that  which  gives 
a  translation  of  the  travels  of  Basileua  Batatze,  of  Constantinople,  in  Asia  and 
Europe,  in  the  beginning  of  the  18 Lh  century.  In  Enjj;land  he  was  much  struck 
with  the  philhellt'iiism  of  the  English,  and  especially  of  Oxford.  "  What  struck 
me  most  in  England  was  the  ct^lebrattHi  University  of  Oxford,  where  they  teach 
all  the  sciences.  I  ofTert:^  to  that  establishment  the  map  of  Central  Asia  which 
1  had  had  engraved ;  they  thanked  me  very  warmly  for  this  gift." 

ThomaSi  A.^Etymologischea  Wurterbuch  Geographischer  Namen.  Namentlich 
soicher  aus  dem  Bereiche  der  Schulgeographie,  Breslan,  F,  Hirt,  1886 :  8va, 
pp.  iv.  and  192,     {Dulmi,) 

As  its  name  implies,  this  little  book  contains  a  selection  of  geographical 
terms  and  names  of  places  with  their  etymologies.  So  far  as  it  goes,  it  seems 
on  the  whole  satisfactory,  though  necessarily,  some  of  the  etymologies  are  con- 
jectural, if  not  fanciful.  Why  should  London  and  Cambridge  be  given,  bat 
neither  Oxford,  Liverpool,  nor  Edinburgh?  The  book  is  to  a  large  extent 
bastid  on  Egli's  works. 


I 


The  following  works  have  also  been  added  to  the  Library  :— 

Annual  Report  of  the  Board  of  Regents  of  the  Smithsonian  Inst* 
the  Operations,  Expenditures,  and  Condition  of  the  Institution  I 
Part  11.     Washington,  Government  Printing  office,  1885 :  8^ 
plates.    [Presented  by  the  Smithsonian  Institution,] 


NEW  MAPS.  325 

Se  Sance,  Charles  E.— The  Water  Supply  of  England  and  Wales;  its  Geology, 
Undei^round  Circulation,  Surface  Distribution,  and  Statistics.  London,  £. 
Stanford,  1882 :  8vo.,  pp.  x.  and  623,  maps.  Price  25a. 
McCarthy,  John. — Commercial  and  Technical  Report  on  West  Indian  and  British 
Honduras  Products,  at  the  Colonial  and  Indian  Exhibition,  1886.  Compiled 
\mder  the  direction  of  Sir  Augustus  Adderley,  K.c.M.a.,  Executive  Commissioner. 
[1886] :  8vo.,  pp.  128.  [Presented  by  Sir  Augustus  Adderley.] 
Men  of  the  Time :  A  Dictionary  of  Contemporaries,  containing  Biographical 
Notices  of  Eminent  Characters  of  both  sexes.  London,  Routledge,  1887 :  8yo., 
pp.  viii.  and  1121.    Price  IBs, 

A  good  deal  has  been  done  to  bring  this  useful  reference  book  into  con- 
formity with  the  time.  There  is,  however,  a  great  want  of  proportion.  Many 
obscure  and  undistinguished  journalists,  about  whom  no  one  cares  to  know 
anything,  are  allowed  as  much  space  to  write  about  themselves,  as  the  editor 
devotes  to  some  men  of  the  highest  rank  of  eminence.  In  the  editor's  estima- 
tion, the  following  geographers  and  travellers  are  evidently  not  '*  men  of  the 
time " : — Emin  Pasha,  Dr.  Junker,  Schweinfurth,  De  Brazza,  Bates,  the 
Hydrographer  to  the  Admiralty,  Joseph  Thomson.  And  yet  we  find  Schwatka. 
In  the  article  on  Mr.  Thiselton  Dyer,  *'  the  late  "  Sir  J.  D.  Hooker  is  referred  to. 

Science.  An  Illustrated  Journal,  published  weekly.  Vols.  I.-VIII.  February- 
June,  1883— July-December,  1886.  Cambridge,  Mass.,  and  New  York,  the 
Science  Company,  1883-1886 :  4to. 

Smith,  W.  Anderson. — Benderloch;  or,  Notes  from  the  West  Highlands. 
Second  Edition.  With  Map  and  Index.  Paisley,  Alexander  Gardner,  1883 : 
sm.  8vo.,  pp.  366  and  5.    Price  6».    [Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 

Loch  Creran:  Notes  from  the  West  Highlands.     Paisley  and  London 

A.  Gardner,  1887 :  sm.  8vo.,  pp.  322.    Price  6«.    [Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 

The  English  Catalogue  of  Books  published  from  January  1835  to  January  1863, 
comprising  the  contents  of  the  "  London  "  and  the  *'  British  *'  Catalogues,  and  the 
principal  works  published  in  the  United  States  of  America  and  Continental 
Europe,  with  the  Dates  of  Publication,  in  addition  to  the  Size,  Price,  Edition,  and 
Publisher's  Name.  Compiled  by  Sampson  Low.  1864:  pp.  vi.  and  910. — 
Ditto.  Vol.  U.  January  1863  to  January  1872.  Compiled  by  ditto.  1873  : 
pp.  452.— -Ditto.  Vol.  IlL  January  1872  to  December  1880.  Compiled  by  ditto. 
1882 :  pp.  562.— Ditto  for  1884  ....  with  the  addition  of  an  Index  to  Subjects. 
1885:  pp.  130.— Ditto  for  1885,  ditto.  1886:  pp.  120.— Index  to  the  British 
Catalogue  of  Books  published  during  the  years  1837  to  1857  inclusive.  Compiled 
by  Sampson  Low.  1858 :  pp.  292  and  xxx. — Index  to  the  English  Catalogue  of 
Books.  Compiled  by  ditto.  Vol.  II.  1866  to  January  1876.  1876 :  pp.  408.— 
Ditto.  Vol.  III.  January  1874  to  December  1880.  1884 :  pp.  175.  London, 
Sampson  Low  &  Co. :  8vo. 


NEW  MAPS. 

(By  J.  CoLBS,  Map  Chtraiar,  b.o.s.') 

EUBOPE, 

Bruges* — Plan  de ^  par  Joseph  Kips,  f.b.g.s.  Scale  1 :  7500  or  9*7  inches  to 

a  geographical  mile.    London :  Joseph  Kippe.    Price  lOd. 

Bmzelles* — Plan  de  (Bmssds),  les  Environs,  et  Plan  de  Waterloo.*    Par 

Joseph  Kips.    London.    Price  lOd, 


32G 


NEW  MAPS. 


Colberg'^ — KArte  der  Umgegend  von ,  nach  den  von  OfSzieren  des  7*  Pommer- 

schvn  lufanterie-Eegimenta  Ko.  54  gelLererfcen  Nachtragen  zu  den  Origioiil- 
Aufnabmen  dcB  Gcneralfltabes  bearbeitel  in  der  KdoigL  Landes-Au&iftkme.  Scale 
1 :  25,000  or  2 '9  inches  to  a  geographical  mile*  Berlin :  Simon  Schropp  (J.  H. 
Neumann),  1887.     Price  1*.  Bd.    (Dulau,) 

Coilin.^ — Specialkarte   des  UegieningB-BeziTks   .     Scale  1:300,000    or  4*1 

geographical  miles  to  an  inch,  Entworfen  von  Nowack,  KgL  Plankammer- 
Insjiektor  des  Sut.  Bureaus,  Berlin,  Simon  Schropp  (J.  H.  Keumann),  1887. 
Price  2«.    (Duiau.y 

Batltscli'Lotluillgea*  —  Geologiscbe     Uebersiclitskarte    des     westlichen    , 

Herausige^eben  von  der  CommlBi^ion  fiir  die  geolog.  Landesuol^rsuchung  von 
Elsasft-Lothringen.  Scale  1:80,000  cr  1*1  geographical  miles  to  an  inch* 
Chromolith.  FcA,  Mit  Text.  Berlin^  Simon  Schropp  (J.  H,  NeumaEn).  Price  5«, 
(Dulau.) 

^ Uebersichtfikarte  der  Eisenerzrelder  des  westUchen         .    Htarans- 

g^eben  Ton  der  Commission  (lir  die  geolog.  Landesunterfiuehung  von  Elaasa^ 
Lothringen.  Scale  1 :  80,000  or  1  "1  geographical  miles  to  an  in ck  Berlin,  Simon 
Schropp  (J.  H.  Neumann).     Price  Is,    {DulatiJ) 

BeiLtficIien'BeiclieB,— ^rte  des ■,    Scale  1 :  100,000  or  1  '3  geograpliical  mi  Its 

to  an  inch.  Sheets  No.  534,  Kenitiath,  Herausgegeben  vom  topogr.  Bureau  dts 
K.  Bayer,  Genets  I  S  tabes,  1886.  No,  601,  Saarhnrg  U  Deutsch^Lothr.  Herau*- 
gpgeben  von  der  kartogr.  Abtheilung  der  Konigi  Preuss.  Landes-Aufnahme, 
1887,     Price  If.  Bd.  each.    {Dtdau,} 

Dresden^— Neuester  Plan  von  Ad,  Liubers,  Scale  1: 15,000  or  4'8  inches  to  a 
g<?ographical  mile,  Mit  SkraftsenTerzcichniss.  Leipzig,  0.  Dietrich,  Price  1<. 
(Dttiau,) 

Erfurt.— Specialkarte  des  RegierungB-Be^irks    *,     Scale  1 ;  300,000  or  4*1 

geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Entworfen  von  Nowack^  KgL  Plankammer- 
Jnnpektor  des  Stat,  Bureaus.  Berlin,  Simon  Schropp  (J,  H.  Neumann),  1887, 
l*rice  2$,    (Duhu.) 

Europa, — Eiaenbahn  und  DampfschiOrouten  Earte  von  J*  Fmnz,  Sc&lo 
1  ^  3,000,000  or  41* 6  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  6  sheets.  Glogau,  Flem- 
ming.     Price  IZs.     (Dulau.) 

Franldiirt  a/0.— Specialkarte  des  KegiemngBr-Bezirks  .    Scale  1 :  300^000  or 

4*1  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Berlin,  Simon  Schropp  ( J.  H.  Neumann), 
1887,    Price  3s.    (Dulau,) 

Gand.^ — Plan  de  • (Ghent),  par  Joseph  Kips,  f.r,g.s.     Scale  1 :  10,000  or 

7  "3  inches  to  a  geographical  mile.  London,  Josejih  Kipps,  Price  lOd, 
Gran  SaiSO  d*Italia*^^arta  Topografiea  del  — — •,  pubblicata  a  cura  della  Sezione 
di  Roma  del  Club  Alpino  Italians  ed  esc|;uita  dal  ^ocio  G,  E.  Fritzsche.  In  bue 
alia  nuova  Carta  ddlo  Stato  Maggiore  Italiano.  Scale  1:80,000  or  I'l  geo- 
graphical miles  to  an  inch.  Tntituto  Cartografico  Italiano  e  Stab.  Lit.  L.  Bolla, 
Koma,  1887,    Price  4i-    (Dulau.) 

I'hia  map  contains  the  whole  group  between  the  Yoinano  and  Pescara 
valleys.  Its  extreme  limits  are  the  Pii2o  di  Sevo  and  the  city  of  Teramo  to 
the  north,  and  the  railway  station  of  Bussi  to  the  soulh,  thus  including  the 
**  Mandamenti^*  of  Amatrice,  Monlerealo,  Aquila,  Popoli,  Sassa,  Paganica, 
Barisciano,  S,  Demetrio  nei  Yestini,  Capestrano^  Ternmo  Montorio,  and 
Tossiccta,  The  single  sheet  of  this  map  includes  an  area,  porth^ns  of  which 
are  givtn  on  four  sheets  of  the  1 ;  100,000  map  of  the  Italian  General  Staff, 
The  elevations  are  shown  by  contour  lines  100  metres  apart,  and  the  hill  work 


* 


XEW  MAPS.  S27 

IS  ooloareJ  in  five  shades  of  brown,  the  forests  and  meadows  are  greeo,  and  the 
lailways,  roads,  and  paths  are  all  plainly  indicated.  An  inset  map  of  the  Gran 
Sasso  d'ltalia  is  giyen  on  the  scale  of  1 :  25,000,  with  oontoara  for  erery  twenty- 
five  metres  of  difference  of  altitude.  The  map  is  well  drawn,  the  ooloors  are 
jndidoosly  chosen,  and  the  lettering  clear. 

■enebnrg.— Specialkarte  des  Regiemngs-Bezirks w    Scale  1 :  300,000  or  4*1 

geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Entworfen  Yoa  Xowack,  ElgL  Plankammer- 
In^iektor  des  Stat  Boreans.  Berlin,  Simon  Schropp  (J.  H.  Kemnann),  1887. 
Price  2m.     iDmlau.) 

Potldam.— Spedalkarte  des  Regienings-Beairks  .    Scale  1 : 300,000  or  4*1 

geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Entworfen  Ton  Xowack,  KgL  Plankammer- 
Inspd^tor  des  Stat  Boreans.  Berlin,  Simon  Schropp  (J.  H.  Nenmann),  1887. 
Price  3t.    (Dulau.) 

KUBlland. — ^Earte  der  Eisenbahnen  der  enropaischen mit  Theilen  der  angren- 

zenden  Lander  nnd  Klein-Asiens.  Scale  1 : 6,000,000  or  82 '5  geographical  miles 
to  an  inch.    Wien,  Artaria  &  Co.    Price  Is.  6ct    {Dylau}. 

Siebengebirges. — Uebersichtskarte  des  ,  angefertigt  nnter  Benntzung  des 

amtlichen  Materials  vom  Oberbergamts-Markscheider  Adolf  Schneider  in  Bonn. 
Scale  1: 12,500  or  5*8  inches  to  a  geographical  mile.  Berlin,  Simon  Schropp 
(J.  H.  Neomann),  1887.    Price  2s.    [Ihdau.) 

Srerige,  Vorge  och  Danmark— General  Karta  ofrer samt  angransande  delar 

af  dstersjo  lander  jemte  jemvags  kommunikationer.  3<l*  till^ta  och  forbattrade 
Upplagan.  Sammandragen  och  forfattad  i  sex  Blad.  Scale  1:  1,000,000  or 
13*6  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  August  Hahr,  Stockholm,  1887.  Pa  FOrlag 
af  F.  and  G.  Beijer.    Price  1/.  U    (Dulau,) 

This  is  a  new  edition  of  Hahr's  well-known  map  of  Sweden,  Norway,  and 
Denmark,  with  corrections  and  additions  which  bring  it  up  to  date. 

ORDNANCE  SUBYET  MAPS. 
PobdoUloDt  laoed  diizii«  tlw  booIIi  of  Maidi  188T. 
l-i2loh— Oencrml  lf^»  :-^ 

Emolaxv  A3n>  Walks  :  N«w  Series.    Sheets  85, 95.' 97,  S23,  U.  ettoh. 
SooTUkXD:  SbeeU  128, 129  (oatiine).  U.  9d.  each. 

6-inoh— CooDty  ]Ups>- 

Emqlxvd  avd  Walks:  Bedfordshire:  si  N.E.,  &&.  od  one  sheet;  u.  Breoknookshire : 
18  &W..  33  N.W^  S.W.,  S.E^  34  N.E.;  Is.  ctth.  Oambridtfeahixe :  s  N.K,  S.W., 
4  N.W.,  6  N.W.,  S.W..  S.K.  7  N.W..  14  &E.,  15  aw.,  20  N.K. :  Is.  tSL  Cardlsanshire :  lo . 
&W..  S.&,  12  &W.,  15  N.KL,  S.W..  &Ew.  16  N.W.,  17  &W..  43  N.W.;  Is.  etch.  Oarmarthen- 
ahire:  lO  N.W.,  &W.;  is.  CMh.  Gheahire:  large  index  mra^  2  mikt  to  1  inch;  2«.  ed. 
Derbyshire:  45  N.W.,  S.W.,  49  N.IC.  53  N.E.;  is.  each.  Devonahire:  120  S.E.;  i<. 
DorMtahire:  12  N.W..  N.E.,  &W..  13  N.W.,  u  S.W. ;  is.  etch,  aionoesterahire :  n 
N.W^  S.W. ;  is.  taxh.  Herefordshire :  31  S.W..  33  &£.,  Uereford ;  37  HJi,  39  N.W..  4i  SwK. ; 
is.  each.  Himtixiflrdonahire :  6  &E.,  7  &W.;  is.  each.  Uncolnahire :  78  N.W.,  &W., 
S.E.,  86  N.W.,  S.E.;  is.  each.  Kerionethahire :  S9  aK.;  is.  Konxnouthahire : 
24.  2s.  6d.  Kontffomeryahire:  3  &£.;  is.  Nosfolk:  39  &W.,  51  &£.;  is.  each. 
Somersetshire :  4i  N.WT.  Wells;  86  &£..  87  M.W.,  aK;  is.  each.  StafEbrdshire :  70 
aw.;is.e>ch.  Warwickshire:  14  &£.,  isaE,  17  aw.;  ls.each.  Worcestershire: 
3aW.,6ai£.;  is.  each. 
25-inoh— P^trteh  Maps  .•— 

Ekolaxi)  avd  Walks:  Bredknockshize :  XXV.  3.  4. 8. 16.  XXTT.  3. 7. 8, 12, 15.  XXXIX.  11. 
15.  XLVl.  1. 3s.  each.  Cambridgeshire:  XLI.  1.  2.  3.  4,  7.  8,  9.  3s.  each ;  XU.  10.  4s.;  XU. 
11, 13. 15.  16.  LVIU.  10.  3S.  each.  Oarmarthenihire :  XXVIL  3.  4,  7.  8.  16.  XXXIV.  10. 
13. 14.  XXXV.  1, 2. 3. 5. 6.  7. 10. 13. 15,  XLI.  3, 4.  XLII.  1, 6.  7. 3s.  fach..    DeTonanire :  XXLX. 

1.5.  6.  9.  10.  11.  13.  14.  16.  XXX.  11.  12.  15.  XU.  10.  LII.  2.  5.  6.  12,  CVII.  11.  CVIIl.  3.  7.  8, 
CXIV.  9.  as.  each;  CXIV.  10.  4s.;  CXIV.  13, 14,  3s.  each ;  CXX V.  11.  4s.;  CXXV.  12, 16.  CXXXI. 
9,  3s.  each.  Glouoestershire :  Area  Books:  BledlnRton,  Clapton,  ClUfbrd  Chambers.  Lower 
Swell,  Maagersbary.  Oddlngum,  Preston  npon  SUmr.  Weston  upon  Avon  (part  oQ,  is.  each. 
Herefordshire:  X.  11.  XVIL  11. 16.  XX.  16.  XXI.  15,  XXIV.  s,  8,  XXVIL  2.  6.  8.  11,  12. 14. 
15,  XXVm.  1.  2,  9.  13.  XXXIV.  3.  4.  7.  8.  3s.  each.;  XXXV.  1,  4s.;  XXXV.  5.  3s.  Lin- 
colnshire: V.  11.  4s.;  VI.  10.  13,  14,  XL  2,  4.  5.  6.  7,  15.  XVUL  2.  3s.  each:  XVIll. 
5.  5s.;  XVliL  6.  8.  11,  3s.  each;  XVIIi.  12,  4s.;  XVIIL  IS.  Ss.;  XVIIL  15.  a«.;  XXVIL 
11.  4s.;  XXVIL  12,  15.  IC,  XXXVL  4,  7.  8,  9.  11,  12,  3s.  each;  XXXVL  13,  4s.;  XXXVl. 
14,  15,  16.  XLV.  9.  13.  14,  I4III.  1.  2.  6.  9.  12.  CLIIL  2.  3s.  each.  Montgomeryshire: 
IV.  7. 13,  16,  V.  5, 10,  IX.  7,  9, 10,  13, 16,  XIU.  1,  3,  4,  6^  7,  8,  15,  XVL  3.  XXIIi.  4,XXX11L  5.  6,  7, 


828 


NEW  MAPS. 


31.  each.  Norfolk :  L  lO,  n.  12»  3j.  etch  ?  I.  H.  U,  <*.  «ch ;  L  IB,  IIL  6  ind  10  on  one  ihoct, 
3*.;  Dl.  0.  I'i,  IV.  &,  10,  H,  13,  V.  11  and  12  on  one  kbwt,  VJ.  2,  VIL  4,  9.  ».  10.  U.  13, 13*  H,  la, 
Vlir.  4,  a,  X-  10.  XL  13,  3i.  e«ch;  XXXin.  I.  2.  6.  ii.  cftch  ;  LXllL  15.  2*.  ed.  Are*  Books: 
Acl«,  Belghtoci,  Freethorpe,  Ffnclum.  Great  Wltcliioghftni.  Little  Witch  in  rIisih.  Moullon,  Soutli-| 
wood.  14.  etKh.  Northamptonahire :  UI.  b,  h.  a^.  <^di ;  HL  lo,  4f.  each  ;  IIL  n,  13,  h,  16«  ^ 
!V.  9,  10,  13,  U,  3J,  eacli;  IX.  1,  4*.;  IX.  2,  «,  XIV.  1.  XX\1X.  3,  XLIX.  13,  3j.  ciicrb.  Area 
Hook.* :  Lower  Bodiogton,  Wootton,  1*.  each.  Shropsbire :  Are*  Bw^k :  dun,  3*.  Somerset- 
slllre:  LXIL  2,  3#.  etch;  LXn.  3,  ft,  41.  Mch;  LXn.  h.  3i.;  LXIL  14.  *«.j  LXIL  IS.  3*.  i 
LXIIl.  &,  10,  «.  Mch ;  LXJlf.  13.  3*.;  LXIIL  16.  U.i  LXIII.  16.  LXXIV,  1.  2.4,9.6.  3*.  *'»cb ; 
LXXIV,  10,  4M,i  LXXIV.  ifi.  3*.  Staffordahir© :  LXIL  3,  4.  4«.  each;  LXIL  8.  &f,{  LXIL 
16,  LXIIL  7,  U.  6d.  e«ch;  IJtVH,  2,  ;!f.;  LXVIL  3,  &*.  j  LXViL  t,  6f.  6<i.  Suffolk:  XLL  4, 
if.  WarwlokBhire  :  XXXV,  i.  2.«,  lo,  la.  14,  XXXix.  3,  ii.  ii.  XL.  i.  2.  in,  ii.  la.  13.  js,  i6, 
XLVL  16,  XLVII.  13,  LIV.  S.  12,  3*.  ttick  Ait*  fJook*:  Welfij-a  (part  of),  Wt-rton  upon  Avoa 
([Mul  of),  ij.  each.  Wiltelilre :  XXV.  i,  ^  ^  ;  XXX 11.  lo,  XX.\V.  1,  *i.  a.  ^.  fi,  r.  ».  9.  lo, 
12.  13.  14,  XXXVL  «,  XLU.  10,  XLiy,  18.  XLV.  L  3,  4.  6,  e.  7.  «,  »,  10,  la,  13.  H.  16.  le,  XLVL 
1.  2«  IL  XLVIL  1,  5, 6.  10,  LIU.  3,  3,  3i.  eacb;  MIL  a,  4c. ;  LUL  9.  3«.  Woroeaterablre : 
XL.  3,  6,  3t.  eAch. 
Town  Plana— lo-fret  K»le  .■ — 

Ekclakd  xyv  Wales  :   Aberyitwlth,  VI.  9,  IT.  2*.  eack    erewktm*»  LXXXIX.  13,  31.  St.  each. 
Weal  Brutnwlch.  LXVllL  14,  »*  Ifi;  a#.  each. 

(Stanford.  Agent.) 

^  AFRICA. 

Ostafrika- — Politisclie  UbeTsicbt  von  — ^  oach  den  neuestea  Vertragen  und 
BesitxergToifangen.  Scale  1:  8,000,000  or  109*5  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 
Aus  K.  Kie|Tert'ii  Folitiacher  Wandkartc  von  Afrika  in  6  BL  Berlin,  Dietrich 
Beimer,  1887.    (Dulan.) 

Although  tbe  piiblic  have  from  time  to  time  been  informed,  through  the 
press,  of  the  annexation  of  extensive  territoricfi  in  the  fzeneral  scramble  that  has  i 
taken  place  amonj  European  natiuna  for  African  possessions,  yet  the  proceaa  of  1 
annexation  has  been  si>  gradual  that  it  ia  not  until  the  publication  of  a  map 
like  that  under  consideTation,  that  we  are  able  to  take  io  the  full  meaning  and 
extent  of  the  chancea  which  have  taken  place  in  the  political  geography  of 
Africa  in  the  laat  decade,  or  even  within  a  much  briefer  period.  This  map 
allows  that  the  once  extensire  territory  where  the  authority  of  the  Sultan  of 
Zflnzibar  was  acknowledged,  is  now  reduced  t^  a  mere  strip  of  land  extending 
along  the  coast  for  a  distance  of  950  miles,  that  Germany  has  secured  a  vast 
extent  of  country,  and  in  addition  to  this,  has  also  taken  possession  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Tana  river,  althou}>h  the  En^jlish  poesessbns,  which  are  laid  down  as 
including  the  ^eatcr  portion  of  Masailand  and  the  Kilhnandjaro  district,  are  im- 
mediately in  the  roar\>f  this  position,  and  are,  in  fact,  bonndwi  on  the  north  by 
the  very  river  the  mouth  of  which,  accordins;  to  this  map  is  claimed  as  a 
German  port.  Madagascar  and  all  the  otitlyinp;  islands  are  coloured  as  French 
potsessions,  the  Portuguese  tirritory  is  laid  down  as  extending  across  the  Conti- 
nent, and  the  recent  acquisitiona  of  the  Italian  Government  on  the  coast  of  the 
Red  Sea,  are  marked  as  extending  from  Massowah  to  a  point  nearljr  opposite  the 
island  of  Perim.  It  would  be  impc^sible  in  such  a  notice  as  this  to  call  atten- 
tion to  all  the  |>oints  of  interest,  for  these  we  must  refer  the  reader  to  the  map 
itself,  a  comparison  of  which  wiiii  Boulton'a  map  of  Africa^  published  in  1800» 
will  show  what  w^onderful  progress*  has  l>een  made  during  the  present  century 
in  our  knowledge  of  the  interior  of  Africa,  and  how  all  the  eastern  portion  of 
Equatorial  Africa,  which  appiars  as  a  blank  in  Bonl ton's  map,  Is  now  divided 
into  states,  and  [xi^sessionsof  Europea^n  countries,  with  an  amount  of  detail  and 
precision  closely  resembling  that  which  was  formerly  only  to  be  found  in  maps 
of  Europe, 

South  Africa.—^^nginal  Map  of ,  containing  all  South  African  Colonies  and 

Native  'IVrritoriea,  compiled  from  all  available  information,  combined  with  the 
r^ults  of  his  own  explorations,  by  the  Bev,  A,  Meren&ky,  formerly  Superin- 
tendent of  the  Beriin  Missions  in  TranavaaL  Scale  1 :  2,500,000  or  34*4: 
geographical  miles  to  an  inch,  4  Blatt.  Second  and  revised  edition,  1887. 
Berhn,  Simon  Scbropp  (J.  H.  Neumann),  Price  12s.  {Dulau,) 
Tanifamka-See  und  dem  Luftlaba^ — Dr,  Richard  Bohm's  und  Paul  Richard's 
Rontenaufnahmcn  zwischen  dem  — —  (Quellgebiet  des  Congo)  1883-1884* 
Construirt   und  gezeichnet  von   RichRrd  Kiepert,     Scale   1:  750,000  or  10*3 


NEW  MAPS.  829 

geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    '  Mittheilungen  der  Afrikanischen  Gesellschaft 
in  Deutschland;  Bd.  v.  Taf.  2. 

Profil  langs  Dr.  B.  Bohm*8  und  P.  Reichard*8  Route  von  Mpala  am  Tanganika- 
See  nach  Kagoma  in  Usanga.  Profil  der  Routen  zwischen  Mkande  am  UpSmba- 
See  nnd  der  Landschaft  Katanga.  Langenmassstab  1:  750,000  or  10*3  geo- 
graphical miles  to  an  inch.  Yerhaltniss  des  Lan<ren-  znm  Hohenmassstabe  =  1 :  30. 
*  Mittheilungen  der  Afrikanischen  Gesellschaft  in  Deutschland,*  Bd.  v.  Taf.  3. 
(Dtdau,) 

CHARTS. 
Admiralty. — Cliarts   and   Plans   published    by  the    Hydrographic  Department, 
Admiralty,  in  January  and  February  1887. 
No.  Inches. 

959        m       =         0*4       West    Indies,    Honduras: — ^Approaches    to    Belize. 

Price  2s. 

969      l^       ~         ^'^\     South  America,  east  coast  :—Pemambuoo  roads,  with 

\m       =         9*6/         Pemambuco  harbour.    Price  1«.  6rf. 
554        m       =         0-13     South  America :— Magellan  strait.    Price  2«.  6<f. 
958        m       =         1*1       China,  south  coast  :—Hie-che-chin  bay.    Price  Is.  6c?. 
1126        Ports  and  anchorages  in  Corsica  island: — New  plan  of  Gulf  of  Porto 

Vecchio. 
1497        Reunion  island :— Plan  added,  Port  Pointe  des  Galets. 
1382        Tahiti  and  Moorea : — New  plan  of  Papetoai  and  Cook  bays. 
(J.  D.  Potter,  Agent,) 

CHARTS  CANCELLED. 

No.  Cancelled  by  No. 

554  Magellan  strait New  chart,  Magellan  strait    ..      ,.     554 

1963  Plan  on  this  sheet,  Chino  bay  ..       New  plan,  Hie-chi-chin  bay ..      ,.     958 
740  Plans    of   this   sheet,  Vingorla 
roads,  Mai  wan  bay. 

CHARTS  THAT  HAVE  RECEIVED  IMPORTANT  CORRECTIONS. 

No.  1895.  England,  south  coast :  Dungeness  to  the  Thames.    494.  West  Indies : — 
Anchorages  in  Martinique.     40.  India,  west  coast: — E^arachi  harbour.     740. 
India,  west  coast: — A'chera  river  to  cape  Ramas.     1986.  China,  east  coast: — 
Hai-tan  strait.    1761.  China,  east  coast: — Port  Mathcson  to  Ragged  point. 
(J,  D.  Potter,  Agent,) 

French  Charts.— No.  4119.  C6te  Nord  de  France.  Rade  de  Cherbourg.  1886.-— 
4126.  Corse.  Golfe  de  Porto-Vecchio.  1886.— 4127.  Golfe  du  Tonkin.  Lagunes 
entre  Thuan-An  et  le  Cap  Choumay.  1886.— 4142.  Terre  Neuve.  C6te  Nord- 
£st.  Grand  et  Petit  Bras  de  la  Source  situ^s  k  la  Partie  Sud  de  la  Baie  Aux 
Lifevres.-;  1886.— 4137.  C6tes  du  Pdrou.  Baie  de  Salinas.  1886.— 4150.  Mer 
des  Indes.  Mouillages  k  la  C6te  Guest  de  Madagascar.  Morondava,  Croquis  du 
Mouillage.  lies  Barren  et  Atterrages  de  Maintirano.  Bosy,  Croquis  de  I'Entr^e 
du  Bras  de  mer.  1886. — 1149.  Mer  des  Indes.  Mouillages  k  la  C6te  Est  de 
Madagascar.  Vatomandry.  Croquis  du  mouillage  de  Mahanoro.  1886.  Service 
hydrographique  de  la  Marine,  Paris.     {Dulau,) 

Korwegian  Charts. — Specialkart  over  den  Norsko  Kyst  fra  Temingen  til  Beian 
og  Rodberg.  1:50,000.  Kartet  rettet  til  1887.— Specialkart  over  den  Norske 
Kyst  fra  Beian  til  Lovo,  1 :  50,000. — Chart  of  the  Coast  of  Norway  from  Stavfjord 
to  Trondhjems  Fjorden  (no  title).  Udgivet  af  den  Geografiske  Opmaaling, 
Kristiania.    (^Duiau,) 


S30 


XEW  MAPS. 


TTmted  States  Charts. —  No*  995.  Great  Circle  Sailioj;  Chart  of  tlie 
Atlantic  Ocean.  Trice  2*.  It/.— No.  1026.  Port  Eleaa  (Elena  Bay)»  West 
of  Costa  Rica,     Price  U.  3<i.— No.  1028.  Murcielajio  Bay,  Weat  Coast  of  CobU 

•  Rica.  Price  1«.  3/i.— No.  1029.  Potrero  Grande  Bay,  West  Coast  of  Costa  Rica. 
Price  1*.  3<i.— No.  1033.  Bdleoa  Bay  (Gulf  of  Nicoya),  West  Coast  of  Costa 
Bica.  Price  1*.  3(f.— No.  1035.  U vita  Bay,  West  Coast  ofCuaUHica*  Pri<^  L<.3il. 
^Pilot  Chart  of  the  North  Atlantic  Ocean,  Fehruary,  Mfurch,  and  April  1887. 
Puhlibhed  at  the  Hydrographic  Office,  Navy  Department,  Washington,  DX. 

ATLASES. 

Berghans'  FhyaikaliiCher  Atlas  (hegrtindet  183G  von  Heinrich  Berghaua). 
75  Karten  in  Bieben  Ableilungen,  enthaltend  mtbrerc  hnndert  DarBtellungen 
iiljer  Geologic,  Hydrographie,  Melearoloilie,  Enimagnetiannifi,  Pflanzenverbrei tuner, 
Tierverbreitung  und  V^lkerkunde.  Vollstiindig  neu  hearbeitet  und  n titer  Mtt- 
wirknng  Ton  Dr,  Oscar  Dnide,  Dr.  Georpf  Gerland,  Dr.  Jnlius  Hann,  Br.  Q. 
Hartlaub,  Dr.  W.  Marshall,  Dr»  Georg  Neumayer,  und  Dr,  Karl  v.  Zittel, 
heransgegeben  von  Professor  Dr.  Hermann  Ber^hans.  Neiinte  Lieferung.  Gotha, 
Jiifitus  Perthes,  1887.     Price  3«.  each  part.    {DidmtS} 

This  part  contains  the  following  maps ; — No,  38>  Regenkarte  der  Erde.  Nr.  50, 
Florenkarte  von  Amerika.     Nr.  60,  Haiistiere  und  Parasiten. 

Horth  Atlailti0*^^yDchronons  Weather  Charts  of  the and  the  adjacent 

continenlB  for  every  day  from  Ist  August  18b2  to  Slst  August  1883.  Published 
under  the  Autliority  of  the  Meteorolo^rical  Council.  Part  I.,  Charts  from 
Ist  August  to  7th  November  1^82.  Loudon :  Printed  for  Her  Majesty'** 
Stationery  OfBce,  and  »sld  by  J.  D.  Potter,  31  Poultry,  and  Edward  Stanford, 
55  Charing  Cross,  1886*     Price  17s, 

This  is  the  first  part  of  a  Meteorological  Atlas  which,  when  completed,  will 
contain  the  results  of  a  large  number  of  observations  extending  over  a  period  of 
thirteen  months,  from  August  Ist,  1882,  to  August  31fit,  1883.  These  have 
been  Cfillecled  from  a  large  number  of  ships,  and  they  supply  the  means  ot* 
exhibiting  with  considerBble  precision  the  principal  meteorok)gica!  elements  for 
every  day  during  the  period  over  the  whole  area  dealt  with.  The  present  issue 
embraces  a  period  commencing  August  1st,  1882,  antl  ending  on  the  7th  Novem- 
ber of  the  same  year.  The  charts,  which  are  drawn  on  the  conical  projection, 
are  reductions  from  drawings  on  a  much  larger  scale ;  two  are  given  for  each  day, 
ono  showing  the  barometric  pressure,  the  wind,  and  the  weather;  the  other 
showing  the  temperature  of  the  air  and  sea,  and  the  weather.  In  order  that  the 
barometric  observations  taken  in  various  parts  of  the  world  should  be  truly 
gynchronotis,  the  hour  for  taking  the  readings  was  fixed  at  Greenwich  noon,  and 
that  for  taking  the  tera|^ratures  at  local  noon.  The  barometric  pressure  lias 
been  dt^duced  by  inter|iolaiion  for  Greeuwjcli  noon  of  e^cb  day,  and  has  l>ecn 
entered  at  a  point  corre»jx)nding  to  the  ship^s  place  at  that  time^  the  result 
being  that  the  pressures  shown  are  strictly  synchronous*  The  curves  of  equal 
bftrometric  pressure  are  represented  by  black  lines,  dmwn  for  each  tenth  ol  an  " 
inch,  a  dratted  line  for  the  twentieth  of  an  inch  being  occasionally  in- 
troduced* Figures  in  the  central  area  of  depression  show  the  lowest  reading 
of  the  barometer,  recorded  by  vesi^ils  which  passed  through  it.  The  force  and 
direction  of  the  wind  is  indicated  by  black  arrows  of  d liferent  form,  the  winds 
at  high  elevations  being  indicated  by  red  arrows.  Tlie  weather  is  shown  by 
appropriate  shnding  on  both  the  pressure  and  temix.Tature  charts.  The 
isotherms  are  eliown  by  red  lines  over  the  sea  for  each  5°  Fahrenheit,  and  by 
thick  red  lines  over  the  land,  those  over  the  continent  of  America  being  for 
Greenwich  noon,  and  over  Europe  for  about  8  a.m.  local  time. 

llie  protiuction  of  these  weather  charts  must  have  entailed  a  vast  amount  of 
labour,  and  if  continued  for  a  serifs  of  years  they  wilt  be  of  great  value.  It  is  not, 
however,  mentioned  whether  it  is  the  intention  of  the  Meteorological  Council  to 
carry  on  this  work  beyond  the  date  mentioned,  August  Slat,  1883,  though  it  is 
to  be  presumed  that  such  is  the  case,  as  the  observations  for  any  single  year, 
though  highly  interesting  and  seiving  to  illustrate  meteorological  theories^ 
would  in  point  of  fnct  he  of  little  ronl  sen  ice  to  the  mariner. 


(W... 


'"^•Sr.< 


PROCEEDINGS 

OF  TBI 

ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  REOOBD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


The  Annual  Address  on  the  Progress  of  Geography :  1886-7. 
By  General  B.  Straohsy,  b.e.,  f3.s.,  Vice-President. 

(Delivered  at  the  Anniyersary  Meeting,  May  23rd,  1887.) 

The  unavoidable  absence  of  Lord  Aberdare,  caused  by  the  effects  of  the 
very  unfortunate  accident  which  occurred  to  him  in  the  course  of  last 
winter,  has  led  to  a  departure  from  the  ordinary  practice  of  the  Society, 
under  which  the  President  of  the  past  year  addresses  you  at  the  Anni- 
versary Meeting.  At  the  desire  of  the  Council  I  have  undertaken  to  dis- 
charge this  duty,  feeling  alike  the  obligation  that  is  imposed  upon  me  as 
one  of  your  Vice-Presidents  to  do  all  in  my  power  to  further  the  interests 
of  the  Society,  and  to  meet  its  requirements,  as  well  as  the  great  honour 
that  is  done  me  by  selecting  me  from  among  so  many  able  and  distin- 
guished colleagues,  to  replace  so  eminent  and  successful  a  predecessor  as 
Lord  Aberdare. 

It  is  hardly  necessary  for  me  to  say  that  the  entire  Council  has  felt 
most  deeply  for  Lord  Aberdare,  while  it  has  most  fully  appreciated  the 
extraordinary  value  of  his  services  to  the  Society,  and  has  regretted 
the  untoward  cause  of  his  absence  on  this  occasion.  The  Fellows  will 
bear  in  mind  that,  with  the  exception  of  one  year,  Lord  Aberdare  has 
held  the  office  of  President  since  1880,  and  I  think  you  will  concur  in 
the  opinion  that  I  express  that,  with  the  exception  of  Sir  Roderick 
Murchison,  there  is  no  one  of  our  Presidents  to  whom  the  Society  has 
been  so  much  indebted.  Lord  Aberdare's  long  and  varied  official  and 
business  experience,  and  his  special  connection  with  the  cause  of  educa- 
tion, qualified  him  in  an  unusual  manner  to  preside  over  the  action 
of  the  Council,  during  the  last  four  or  five  years,  in  which  those  aspira- 
tions towards  the  extension  and  improvement  of  geographical  education 
in  this  country,  which  were  the  frequent  themes  of  his  addresses,  were 
given  a  practical  form,  and  are  at  length  on  the  point  of  becording 
realised,  in  connection  with  the  teaching  of  the  two  great  universities 
of  Oxford  and  Cambridge. 

No.  VI.— June  1887.]  2  b 


332     THE  ANKUAL  .\DDBESS  ON  THE  PR^RESS  OP  GEOGRAPHY:  1886-7. 

'  Tliat  tho  general  proBperity  of  the  Society  has  not  fallen  off  during 
tlie  period  of  Lord  Abordare'e  tenure  of  office  is  sufficiently  fibown  l>y 
til©  continned  increase  of  the  number  of  subscribing  Fellows,  which 
during  the  last  year  has  increased  somewhat  more  than  during  tho 
previous  year,  whilo  the  total  number  on  the  list  on  the  let  of  May  was 
3392.  The  financial  position  is  likewise  satisfactory,  and  it  is  antici- 
pated  that  the  grant  of  lOOOi.  which  has  been  made  in  aid  of  the  Stanley 
Expedition  in  relief  of  Emin  Bey  may  be  met  from  the  income  of  the 
Society,  after  meeting  all  other  demands,  without  trenching  on  the 
invested  capital. 

It  may  he  of  interefit  to  the  Fellows  to  notice  that  about  3000^.  is 
spent  on  the  publications  of  the  Society,  so  that  nearly  U.  is  returned  to 
each  of  them  in  the  value  of  the  *  Proceedings  *  and  other  publications. 

The  losses  of  the  Society  by  death  during  the  year  have  been  70» 
besides  5  Honorary  Corresponding  Members.  I  may  detain  you  to  name 
a  few  of  these  more  prominently  distinguished  by  their  eervices  to  geo- 
graphy. More  or  less  detailed  biographical  notices  of  several  of  these  have 
already  appeared  in  tho  pages  of  onr  *  Proceedings/  written  in  most  cases 
by  colleagues  who  were  well  qualified  for  the  task  by  personal  acquaintance 
with  the  deceased  and  the  work  they  had  performed.  Thus,  an  account 
of  the  career  of  that  eminent  Indian  officer  Major-General  Sir  Charles 
Macgregor,  the  author  of  '  A  Narrative  of  a  Journey  through  Khorassan 
and  the  North-weet  Frontier  of  Afghanistan/  has  been  contributed  by  his 
fiiend  Colonel  Iloldich ;  a  life  of  Colonel  Sir  J,  Bateman  Champain^  tho 
zealous  engineer  officer  who  so  long  occupied  the  post  of  Director  of 
tho  Indo-European  Telegraph,  has  been  written  by  his  professional 
colleague  Sir  Frederic  Goldsmid  ;  a  memoir  of  Mr.  A.  W.  Moore,  by  his 
fellow-traveller  in  the  Caucasus,  Mr.  Douglas  Freshfield  ;  and  one  of 
Sir  T.  Douglas  Forsyth,  the  leader  of  the  celebrated  Yarkand  Mission 
of  1870  by  his  brother,  Mr.  W.  Forsyth,  (j.c.  Otir  pages  havo  also 
recorded  the  chief  incidents  in  the  active  life  of  Admiral  Bedford  Pirn, 
R.N.J  one  of  the  most  adventurous  of  our  Arctic  explorers,  who  virtually 
accomplished  the  long  sought  *'  North- West  Passage  "  during  the  search 
for  Sir  John  Franklin,  by  crofising  the  ice  from  one  of  the  soarching 
vesBels^  the  Besolute,  which  had  come  from  the  Atlantic,  to  the  InveMi- 
jfaior,  which  had  come  from  tho  Pacific. 

Other  deceased  members,  who  had  achieved  deserved  reputations 
as  geographerB,  or  in  departmonts  of  science  allied  to  geography, 
are  Colonel  G.  0.  De  Pr6e,  ii.E.,  the  late  Surveyor- General  of  India,  an 
able  officer,  devoted  to  his  profession,  whose  health  had  been  seriously 
affected  by  his  long  service  in  India ;  Dr.  R.  J*  Mann,  the  eminent 
meteorologist,  who  contributed  much  to  his  special  department  of  science 
by, his  addreseeB  as  President  of  the  Meteorological  Society,  and  his 
admirable  paper  on  the  Physical  Geography  and  Climate  of  Natal, 
founded  on  his  oi^ti  personal  observations  in  that  colony  for  a  long 


THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHY:  1886-7.     833 

series  of  years ;  and  Mr.  James  Wyld,  the  enterprising  cartographer  and 
map  publisher. 

One  of  our  deceased  honorary  corresponding  members,  General  C.  M. 
P.  Stone  (of  the  United  States  Army)  will  be  honourably  remembered  for 
the  part  he  took,  during  the  years  of  his  service  in  Egypt  as  Chief  of  the 
General  Staff,  in  promoting  the  scientific  exploration  of  the  little  known 
provinces  in  the  Soudan,  then  newly  annexed  to  the  Egyptian  dominion. 
It  was  he  who  directed  the  surveys  then  carried  out  by  Engineer  officers 
under  his  command,  especially  in  Darfur,  and  also  the  work  of  measure- 
ment of  the  Nile  level.  He  took,  for  many  years,  a  leading  part  in  the 
proceedings  of  the  Geographical  Society  of  Cairo,  having  been  vice- 
president  since  its  foundation  in  1875,  and  president  from  1879  to  the 
date  of  his  retirement.  He  died,  after  his  return  to  America,  on  the  25th 
of  January  last. 

I  have  already  alluded  to  the  prospects  of  the  early  realisation  of  the 
endeavours  which  the  Council  have  been  making  for  some  years  past  to 
improve  and  extend  geographical  education.  It  was  resolved  by  the 
Council  at  the  end  of  June  last,  that  the  most  practical  way  of  attaining 
the  object  in  view,  with  the  means  at  the  disposal  of  the  Society,  was,  in 
relation  to  the  higher  class  education,  to  make  specific  proposals  to  the 
Universities  of  Oxford  and  Cambridge  for  providing  lecturers  on 
geography,  with  the  aid  of  funds  to  be  supplied  by  the  Society ;  and  in 
relation  to  secondary  education,  to  offer  scholarships  and  prizes  for 
competition  among  the  persons  of  both  sexes  who  present  themselves  for 
acceptance  as  certified  teachers  at  the  yearly  examination  held  by  the 
Education  Department,  to  be  awarded  to  those  passing  highest  in  the 
geography  examination. 

The  proposals  made  to  the  Universities  were  as  follows : — 

That  the  Council  should  appoint,  with  the  approval  of  the  Vioe- 
Chancellor  or  his  delegates)  a  Lecturer  or  Reader  in  geography  who  should 
deliver  courses  of  lectures  at  both  Universities,  arranged  so  as  to  suit 
students  in  the  Honour  Schools.  The  salary  of  the  lecturer  to  be  paid 
by  the  Council,  and  the  University  to  accord  him,  as  far  as  practicable, 
the  status  of  a  Reader  attached  to  the  University. 

Or,  as  an  alternative : — 

That  each  University  should  join  with  the  Council  in  supplying 
funds  for  a  readership.  The  reader  to  be  appointed  by  a  committee  in 
which  the  Boyal  Geographical  Society  should  be  represented. 

Further  it  was  decided : — 

That  the  Council  are  prepared  to  award  in  alternate  years  at  each 
University  an  exhibition,  value  lOOL,  to  be  spent  in  the  geographical 
investigation  (physical  or  historical)  of  some  district  approved  by  the 
Council,  to  a  member  of  the  University  of  not  more  than  eight  years' 
standing,  who  shall  have  attended  the  geographical  lecturer's  courses 
during  his  residence. 

2  B  2 


33^     THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS  ON  THE  PBOGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHY:  1886-7. 


Or,  in  lieu  of  the  above ; — 

**  In  tlie  event  of  it  being  conaidered  undesirabla  in  any  year  to  award 
the  exhibition,  the  funds  may  be  devoted  to  two  prizes  of  5QL  and  25/. 
reepeetively,  to  be  offered  to  members  of  the  University  of  the  same 
standing,  for  an  essay  on  a  geograpliical  snbject,  tbo  conditions  of  which 
would  be  laid  down  by  the  Council**' 

The  Council  contemplated  that  such  a  lecturer  should  from  time  to 
time  delivia*  lectures  iu  Loudon^  which  they  did  not  doubt  would  bo 
t|uito  compatible  with  the  discharge  of  University  duties. 

These  proposals  were  forwarded  to  the  Y  ice -Chancellors  of  the  two 
Universities,  with  letters  expressing  the  hope  of  the  Council  that  they 
would  receive  the  favourable  consideration  of  the  University  autho- 
rities. 

Both  the  TJniverfcities  have  resixinded  very  coidially  to  the  proposals 
thus  made  to  them.  The  arrangements  contemplated  by  the  Council 
are  likely,  however,  to  be  so  far  modified  as  to  substitute  tlie  appointment 
of  two  lecturers,  one  for  each  University,  in  place  of  one  to  serve  for  both, 
a  change  which  certainly  appears  to  bo  for  the  better.  The  University 
of  Oxford,  it  is  anticipated,  will  now  take  very  early  steps  for  the 
nomination  of  a  Keader  in  Geography.  The  authorities  at  Cambridge 
have  expressed  a  wnsh  to  postpone  the  appointment  of  the  lecturer 
until  next  year,  and  have  requested  the  Council  to  endeavour  to  arrange 
in  the  interval  for  the  delivery  of  an  introductory  courae  of  lectures, 
illustrative  of  the  general  character  and  scope  of  the  instruction  in 
geography  which  it  will  in  the  future  be  the  duty  of  the  lecturer  to 
impart.     This  the  Council  hoi>e  to  be  able  to  accomplish. 

The  proposals  made  to  the  Education  Department  have  also  been 
moat  readily  assented  to.  The  final  form  in  which  this  part  of  the 
scheme  is  understood  to  be  settled  is  as  follows: — The  Council  offer  one 
flcholaiAhip,  value  15L,  and  four  prizes,  consisting  of  atlases  or  books, 
to  the  successful  male  candidates  passing  highest  in  the  examination  in 
geography  at  the  yearly  examinations  for  teachers'  certificates  con- 
ducted by  the  Education  Department ;  and  a  like  scholarship  and  four 
prizes  to  the  female  teacher  candidates.  At  the  same  time  a  wish  has 
been  expressed  that  the  Council  may  he  furnished  with  the  answers  of 
the  selected  candidates,  in  order  that  the}"  may  form  a  judgment  as  to 
the  standard  of  education  acquired,  and  to  regulate  their  future  action 
in  respect  to  the  prizes.  Effect  will  bo  given  to  this  at  the  examinations 
to  be  held  in  December  next. 

It  may  therefore  be  confidently  exixscted  that  in  the  course  of  the 
ensuing  year  these  arrangements  will  come  into  practical  operation,  and 
I  trust  that  at  the  next  Anniversary'  Meeting  of  the  Society  it  will  be 
possible  to  adduce  direct  evidence  of  the  successful  inauguration  of  these 
important  measures. 

The  Council   has  further  endeavoured   to  promote  the  cause  of 


THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHY:  1886-7.     385 

education  in  geography  by  assisting  the  Oxford  University  Extension 
course  of  lectures,  so  far  as  this  particular  branch  of  instruction  is 
concerned.  The  reports  which  the  Council  has  received  of  the  success 
of  these  lectures,  in  arousing  an  interest  in  the  study  of  geography 
among  an  important  class  at  some  of  the  larger  centres  of  population, 
are  such  as  to  justify  the  hope  that  valuable  results  may  be  secured  in 
this  direction  also. 

In  immediate  connection  with  this  statement  of  the  action  taken  for 
the  furtherance  of  geographical  education,  I  may  conveniently  refer  to 
important  discussions  on  this  subject  that  have  been  raised  during  the 
past  year  before  the  Society  at  two  of  its  ordinary  meetings,  and  before 
the  Geographical  Section  of  the  British  Association. 

Some  divergence  of  opinion  might,  perhaps,  have  been  expected 
among  those  who  took  part  in  these  discussions,  as  to  the  best  method  of 
dealing  with  geographical  instruction.  I  think,  however,  that  when 
certain  ambiguities  of  form  and  expression  are  set  aside,  there  will  be 
found  to  be  substantial  identity  of  judgment  on  the  essentials  of  the 
questions  involved. 

In  the  first  place,  it  was  for  the  most  part  rather  assumed,  than  speci- 
ficcdly  stated,  that  the  discussion  had  reference  to  the  more  advanced 
education,  and  that  the  students  proposed  to  be  dealt  with  had  already 
acquired  some  elementary  knowledge  both  of  the  main  facts  of  topo- 
graphical geography,  and  of  the  chief  physical  forces  that  are  eflfective 
in  determining  the  conditions  of  the  earth's  surface.  In  describing 
what  I  gather  from  these  discussions  to  have  been  the  general  opinion 
as  to  the  system  of  instruction  to  be  adopted  for  pupils  thus  prepared,  I 
cannot  do  better,  I  think,  than  follow  with  very  little  modification  the 
words  of  Mr.  Bryce,  whose  lucid  observations  very  ably  summed  up  the 
essential  points  under  discussion.  Was  it  not  the  function  of  scientific 
geography,  he  asked,  to  exhibit  the  way  in  which  a  variety  of  physical 
causes  played  firstly  upon  one  another  and  secondly  upon  man,  and  was 
it  not  the  case  that  the  duty  of  a  University  professor  of  geography, 
would  be  best  discharged  when  he  dealt  first  with  the  elementary 
causes,  and  then  showed  the  students  by  successive  stages  how  each 
cause  passed  into  a  secondary  or  subsidiary  cause,  until  the  world  as 
it  now  is  was  arrived  at?  He  would  naturally  begin  with  the 
distribution  of  land  and  sea,  of  the  continents,  islands,  and  oceans ; 
of  the  directions  and  elevations  of  mountain  chains.  Thence, 
he  would  pass  to  the  winds,  rains,  and  climate,  which  depeuded 
on  the  distribution  of  the  land,  the  mountains,  and  the  sea.  From 
this  secondary  set  of  causes  he  would  follow  the  distribution  of 
vegetation  and  of  animal  life,  examining  the  resulting  fertility  and 
productive  power  of  different  countries,  and  showing  the  sequence  of 
cause  and  effect  through  the  varying  rainfall,  the  distribution  of  land 
and  sea,  and  the  influence  of  the  sun's  heat.     He  would  then  pass  on  to 


33G     THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHT:  1886-7. 


consider  how  all  ihcae  causes  operated  upon  man  and  dGtermined  the 
conrse  of  tiumaa  history. 

If  thiB  bo^  as  there  can  Ije  no  reason  to  donbt  that  it  really  is,  tlie 
right  method  uf  teaching  geography,  it  follows  of  necessity  that  the 
80ope  of  geography  as  a  scientific  study  is  marked  out  by  the  same 
general  principles.  Geography  is  essentially  a  science  of  observation, 
and  as  such  is  ancillary  to  many  other  branches  of  science,  to  all  of 
which  it  brings  its  aid,  supplying  them  with  those  data  relating  to  the 
distribution  of  land  and  sea,  to  the  e^Dnfignration  of  the  surface  whether 
above  or  below  the  sea4evel,  to  terreetrial  position,  and  so  forth,  by 
which  are  determined  those  conditions  of  climate  that  are  now,  or  have 
been  influential,  or  which  indicate  former  conditions  of  the  earth,  the 
coDsideration  of  which  is  involved  in  tbo  devcloj>ment  of  those  sciences. 

I  cannot  but  regard  as  idle  the  questions  that  have  sometimes  been 
raised  as  to  the  claim  that  geography  has  to  be  regarded  as  a  science. 
There  in  no  reason  for  hesitation  in  declaring  that  geography  has 
for  its  object  a  perfectly  definite  branch  of  knowledge,  namely  the 
investigation  and  representation  of  the  various  features  of  the  earth's 
Burface,  and  the  study  of  the  secondary  effects  of  these  features 
on  all  that  is  oljserved  on  the  earthy  and  that  to  the  series  of  facts 
thus  brought  together,  scientific  methods  are  perfectly  applicable. 
There  is,  in  fact,  no  greater  difficulty  in  recognising  the  legitimate 
place  of  ge<^aphy  as  one  of  the  sciences  of  oheervationj  because 
of  the  close  relation  that  subsists  between  the  matters  with  which 
it  deals,  and  those  that  fall  within  the  scope  of  other  branches  of 
science  such  as  geology  or  biology,  than  there  is  in  assigning  the  like 
character  to  chemistry  and  electricity,  because  of  the  interaction  of  the 
forces  with  which  they  specially  deal,  with  those  that  constitute  the 
principal  subject  of  inquiry  in  other  specialised  fields  of  human 
knowledge. 

The  only  expedition  now  on  foot  under  the  direct  control  of  the 
Society  is  that  under  Mr.  Last,  which,  according  to  accounts  just 
received,  has  returned  to  Zanzibar,  and  to  which  I  shall  again  refer 
hereafter. 

At  the  end  of  last  year  the  steps  that  had  been  taken  for  the 
despatch  of  an  expedition  for  the  relief  of  Em  in  Bey  were  brought 
before  the  Council,  with  a  view  to  Beeking  the  aid  of  the  Society  m 
the  undertaking,  and  the  Council  having  been  informed  that  such  an 
expedition  had  been  organised  under  the  control  of  a  responsible  Com- 
mittee, with  the  approval  of  the  Egyptian  Government,  and  with  the 
promise  of  a  grant  in  aid  from  that  Government,  it  was  resolved  that 
the  Council  being  satisfied  that  valuable  new  geographical  data  are 
likely  to  be  obtained  by  whichever  route  the  expedition  proceeds,  a 
grant  of  1000^  should  he  made  to  the  Managing  Committee  of  the 
expedition,  to  bo  applied  in  aid  of  the  geographical  exploration  of  the 


THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHY:  1886-7.     337 

oountry  to  be  trayeraecU  and  in  the  hope  that  the  results  of  that  explorar 
tion  may  be  communicated  for  publication  by  the  Society. 

The  Managing  Ck>mmittee,  through  Mr.  W.  Mackinnon,  in  acknow- 
ledging this  grant,  stated  that  it  was  understood  that  all  new  geo- 
graphical information  which  might  be  obtained  by  Mr.  Stanley  during 
the  progress  of  the  expedition  towards  Emin  Bey's  headquarters,  and  on 
the  journey  back,  should  be  communicated  to  the  Society  immediately 
on  receipt,  for  publication  by  them. 

Mr.  Stanley  started  on  the  17th  February  yUl  Egypt  and  Zanzibar, 
and  his  progress  so  far  as  now  known  will  be  noticed  subsequently. 

According  to  long-established  custom,  I  now  proceed  to  review  the 
chief  geographical  events  of  the  year ;  a  task  which  the  ever-increasing 
volume  and  complexity  of  the  literature  of  the  subject,  and  the  growing 
number  and  variety  of  explorations,  renders  yearly  more  difficult.  It 
will  naturally  be  impossible  to  notice  more  than  the  principal  occur- 
rences, and  I  will  commence  with  Africa,  which  continent,  as  in  so 
many  former  years,  has  been  the  chief  field  of  activity. 

The  attention  of  geographers  during  the  year,  as  far  as  regards 
Africa,  has  been  chiefly  directed  to  the  basin  of  the  Congo,  where 
many  explorers,  of  various  nationalities,  have  been  employed  in  ex- 
ploring and  surveying  the  numerous  streams  which  combine  to  make 
the  Congo  one  of  the  greatest  fluvial  systems  of  the  world.  Other 
explorers  have  been  engaged  in  the  same  region  in  examining  into  its 
economical  and  prospective  commercial  resources,  but  at  present  without 
definite  results.  An  excellent  summary  of  the  geographical  work  done  in 
the  Congo  region  up  to  the  middle  of  last  year  was  given  to  the  Society 
in  this  hall,  in  June  last,  by  Sir  Francis  de  Winton,  who  had  then  recently 
returned  from  his  two  years'  administration  of  the  country.  The  most 
important  of  the  new  explorations  he  described  was  that  of  Lieutenant 
Wissmann  and  his  party,  who  had  embarked  on  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Eassai  river,  near  the  part  made  known  to  us  by  Livingstone  and 
Cameron,  and  navigated  it  to  its  junction  with  the  Congo.  Since  then 
Dr.  Wolff,  one  of  Wissmann's  companions,  has  explored  the  Sankuru,  a 
large  northern  tributary  of  the  Kassai,  and  found  it  naviga);)le  for  a  long 
distance.  One  result  of  this  latter  exploration  is  to  show  that  another 
navigable  river  of  the  far  interior,  the  Lomami,  enters  the  Sankuru 
from  the  north-east,  and  that  it  is  a  distinct  river  from  the  Lomami  of 
Cameron,  recently  ascended  by  Grenfell,  which  enters  the  Congo  near 
Stanley  Falls. 

The  direction  which  the  Kassai  takes — in  a  long  curve,  from  south- 
east to  west-north-west — causes  it  to  be  the  recipient  of  nearly  all 
the  drainage  of  the  southern  half  of  the  Congo  basin,  and,  near 
it^  junction  with  the  main  stream  it  adds  to  its  volume  the  waters 
of  another  great  tributary,  the  Quango,  besides  the  Mfini  from  a 
chain  of  great  lakes  further   north.      The  united   waters  are  poured 


338     THE  ANNDAt  ADDKESS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHY:  1S80-7. 

into  the  Congo  tlirough  the  Kwa,  whicli,  according  to  Mr,  Gren- 
feira  inoaaurement,  is  contracted  in  ita  passage  tlirougli  a  rango  of 
low  hille,  and  at  its  mouth  is  only  700  yards  wide  (a  little  Kigher  up 
only  450  yards);  tlie  depth  of  the  swiftly  flowing  stream  Mr.  Gronfell 
was  unable  to  ascertain  as  no  bottom  was  touched  with  a  lino  120  feet  long* 

The  prospective  value  to  the  Congo  State  of  the  Kassai,  with  its  im- 
mense mileage  of  navigable  waters  flowing  through  fertile  plains,  is 
acknowledged  on  all  hands.  Already  stations  have  been  founded  on  its 
l>anks,  and  Portuguese  traders  are  choosing  the  newly-discovered  river 
route  in  preference  to  their  old  inland  road  into  the  interior  fiom 
Loanda.  It  has  been  during  the  past  few  months  repeatedly  reascended 
by  river  steamei's,  once  by  Sir  Francis  de  Winton  himself. 

Equal  in  importance  and  extent  have  been  the  explorations  and 
surveys  along  the  main  river  and  many  of  its  tributaries  airried  out 
by  Mr.  Grenfell,  The  chief  of  these  explorations  waTe  noticed  by  the 
Marquis  of  Lome  in  the  Address  of  last  yeai-;  and  a  brief  general 
account  of  his  surveys  was  given,  together  with  a  reduction  of  hits 
admirabto  series  of  ri%^er  charts,  in  the  October  number  of  our 
*  Proceediogs.'  Since  then  Mr.  Grenfell  has  added  to  his  achieve- 
ments the  ascent  of  the  unknown  portion  of  the  Quango  between  its 
junction  with  the  Kassai  (or  Kwa)  and  the  Falls  of  Xikunji,  which 
latter  was  the  farthest  point,  coming  down  i-iver,  reached  by  a  former 
traveller,  Von  Mechow, 

Other  considerable  additions  have  been  made  to  our  knowledge  of 
the  Congo  region,  by  LieutonantB  Kund  and  Tapponbeck^  members  of  a 
flcientific  expedition  sent  out  in  1884  by  the  German  African  Asaocia- 
tion.  These  two  courageous  travellers,  instead  of  following  the  courses  of 
the  rivers  like  others,  and  gleaning  information  only  of  the  country  and 
people  along  the  banks,  struck  across  the  countrj%  first  from  Stanley 
Pool  to  the  south,  and  thence  towards  the  east^  crossing  in  succession  all 
the  southern  tributaries,  from  the  Quango  inclusive  to  the  Lukenye, 
beyond  the  Kassai ;  a  toilsome  and  dangerous  march  of  about  600  miles. 
Another  member  of  the  same  expedition,  Dr.  Buttner,  made  also  a  land 
journey,  of  le^  extent  but  not  less  interest.  Starting  from  San  Salvador, 
the  old  capital  of  the  Coo  go,  ho  travelled  eastward  and  crossed  the 
Quango,  reaching  the  capital  of  a  negro  potentate  named  Kaaongo^ 
whence  he  struck  northward  to  the  main  Congo  above  Stanley  PooL 
Much  valuable  information  regarding  tbe  coniiguration  of  the  country 
and  the  ethnology  and  products  of  the  interior  was  obtained,  on  these 
two  journejs.  We  learn,  for  example,  that  the  whole  western  section,  to 
a  diiitiiuce  some  400  miles  inland »  is  a  hilly  country  cut  up  by  devp 
valleys,  to  which  succeeds,  further  inland,  a  wide  stretch  of  undulating 
plains,  wooded  only  along  the  courses  of  streams,  and  that  it  is  only 
when  the  eastern  side  of  the  Kassai  is  reached  that  continous  tropical 
forest  is  met  with. 


THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHY;  1886-7.     839 

North  of  the  Congo  the  French  have  been  active  both  in  completing 
the  pioneer  exploration  of  their  new  possessions  and  in  laying  down 
with  scientific  precision  large  tracts  of  country  imperfectly  known. 
The  most  important  work  of  the  latter  kind  is  that  of  Captain  Bouvier, 
the  representative  of  France  on  the  joint  commission  for  laying  down 
the  boundary  between  the  Congo  State  and  the  French  Possessions. 
This  accomplished  surveyor  fixed  numerous  positions  by  a  long  series 
of  observations  both  for  longitude  and  latitude,  and  his  report,  which 
will  be  accompanied  by  an  atlas  of  thirty-eight  maps  on  various  scales, 
will  form  a  solid  contribution  to  our  geographical  knowledge  of  the 
region.  An  important  pioneer  exploration,  about  the  same  time,  was 
made  by  M.  Jacques  de  Brazza,  brother  of  the  eminent  traveller,  to  the 
north  and  east  of  the  French  stations  on  the  river  Ogow6,  undertaken 
soon  after  Mr.  Grenfell's  discovery  of  the  magnitude  of  the  Mobangi,  and 
apparently  with  the  object  of  ascertaining  whether  that  great  river 
flowed  within  the  French  boundary  as  fixed  at  the  Berlin  Conference. 
After  a  journey  of  a  month's  duration  through  dense  forests  M.  de  Brazza 
emerged  on  an  open  plain  through  which  flowed,  not  the  Mobangi 
but  the  Sekoli,  an  independent  tributary  of  the  Congo  lying  far  to  the 
westward.  After  a  fruitless  attempt  had  been  made  to  penetrate  beyond 
this  river,  his  party  built  canoes  and  descended  the  Sekoli  to  its  mouth. 
It  has  been  recently  announced  that  by  arbitration  the  French  boundary 
has  been  extended  a  little  farther  to  the  east  than  fixed  by  the  Berlin 
Conference,  so  as  to  include  the  right  bank  of  the  Mobangi.  A  complete 
and  very  useful  rhume  of  all  the  geographical  work  accomplished  by 
recent  French  explorers  in  the  Ogowe-Congo  region,  by  Major  de  Lan- 
noy  de  Bissy,  was  contributed  to  our  *  Proceedings '  for  December  last, 
illustrated  by  a  map  reduced  from  the  French  surveys. 

Public  interest  has  recently  been  directed  towards  the  region  north 
of  the  Congo,  and  the  practicable  routes  it  may  offer  to  the  Kiam-Niam 
countries  and  the  Egyptian  Soudan,  in  consequence  of  the  despatch 
of  the  expedition  under  Mr.  Stanley,  for  the  relief  and  rescue  of  £min 
Bey,  which  has  adopted  the  Congo  route  to  the  Upper  Nile  in  pre- 
ference to  the  more  direct  and  shorter  route  inland  from  Zanzibar.  A 
paper  giving  a  resumS  of  all  published  information  regarding  this  region 
was  recently  read  in  this  hall  by  our  accomplished  young  colleague 
Mr.  J.  T.  Wills.  Since  then  you  have  had  before  you  the  greatest  of  all 
travellers  in  this  little-known  region.  Dr.  Junker,  and  heard  his  own 
account  of  his  six  years'  explorations.  The  wide  open  plain  country 
lying  between  the  Congo  and  the  Nile,  which  Dr.  Junker  described  to 
us,  is  watered  by  numerous  streams,  the  chief  of  which,  the  Welle- 
Makua,  flows  westerly  in  the  direction  of  the  Upper  Mobangi,  and, 
judging  from  Dr.  Junker's  maps,  it  is  difficult  to  dispute  his  conclusion, 
in  which  Mr.  Wills  agrees,  that  the  two  rivers  are  the  same.  Other 
geographers  believe  that  the  Welle-Makua  belongs  to  the  Shari  system 


3i0     THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHY:  188S-7. 


and  flows  into  Lake  diad.  The  alternative  offei's  one  of  those  problems 
in  which  specalative  geographers  seem  to  delight ;  hut  in  this  case  it 
will  not  ho  long  before  a  solution  is  arrived  at  in  the  only  satisfactory 
way,  namely,  by  actual  exploration.  Meantime  wo  learn,  by  the  latest 
news  from  the  Congo,  that  Mr.  Stanley  has  chosen  to  adopt  a  somewhat 
more  direct  route  to  Emin  Pasha  than  that  first  proposed,  namely,  from 
the  Congo  near  Stanley  Falls  by  land  to  the  ehores  of  the  Albert 
Nyanza* 

Two  more  journeys  across  the  continent  have  been  brought  to  a 
suecesefnl  conclusion  during  tJie  past  year.  One  by  M,  Gleernp,  a 
Swedish  officer,  formerly  in  the  service  of  the  Congo  State»  who  crossed 
from  Stanley  Falls  to  Zanzibar,  and  the  other  by  the  experienced 
traveller  and  geologist,  Dr.  Oscar  Lenz,  who  undertook  in  1885  an  ex- 
pedition for  the  purpose  of  reaching  Br,  Junker  and  Emin  Fasha  viA  the 
Congo.  Beaching  Stanley  Falls  in  February  1886,  Br.  Lenz  was  unable 
to  obtain  men  from  the  Arab  traders  there  to  accompany  him  on  the  march 
through  the  unknown  country  between  that  point  and  the  Upper  NOe, 
and  proceeded  to  Ujiji  in  the  hope  of  meeting  with  better  success  there, 
and  advancing  northwards  along  the  eastern  side  of  Lake  Tanganyika. 
The  distiirb^id  state  of  the  country  and  the  excitement  in  Uganda 
made  this  nnpossible,  and  he  took  the  Tanganyika  and  Nyassa  route 
to  the  Lidian  Ocean,  emerging  at  the  Portuguese  Bettlement  of  QuilH- 
mane. 

Further  south  Dr.  Hans  Schlnz,  a  learned  botanist  and  etbnologiet, 
has  been  exploring  with  fruitful  results  the  region  between  the  Kunene 
and  Lake  Kgami, 

On  the  eastern  side  of  the  continent  our  Society  is  especially  in- 
terested in  the  expedition  of  Mr.  J.  T.  Last,  who  was  commissioned  by 
us  in  the  summer  of  1885  to  proceed  to  the  region  between  the  Rovuma 
and  the  Zambesi  and  follow  up  the  work  of  Mr,  0*Neill  by  exploring  the 
Namuli  Hills  and  the  Liikugu  Valley.  We  hear  by  recent  telegram  of 
his  safe  arrival  at  Zanzibar,  and  may  shortly  expect  him  home  to  give 
us  in  person  an  account  of  his  journey.  The  letters  which  wo  have  re- 
ceived from  him  from  time  to  time  have  informed  us  that  ho  has  carried 
out  his  programme,  though  he  found  the  summit  of  the  Namnli  Hills 
inaccessible,  and  in  addition  traversed  the  wbolo  region  a  second  time, 
striking  into  the  interior  from  Qnillimane,  and  emerging  at  Ibo  on  the 
Mozambique  coast. 

Count  Pfei],  one  of  the  most  active  of  the  pioneers  in  the  newly- 
acquired  German  Protectorate  of  Eastern  Tropical  Africa,  published  last 
year  an  account  of  hia  two  journeys  in  Khutu  and  in  the  neighbouring 
region,  a  country  previously  known  to  us  only  through  Thomson's 
expedition  to  the  Central  African  Lakes.  Some  additions  to  our  know- 
ledge of  the  geography  of  tbis  part  of  the  Afiican  interior  have  resulted 
from  Count  P full's  labours,  the  most  interesting  of  which  ig  the  dis- 


; 


THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GE06RAPHT:  1886>7.     841 

oovery  of  the  main  stream  of  the  Ulanga,  or  upper  course  of  the  Bufigi, 
a  river  which  this  explorer  claims  to  be  of  some  importance,  and  which 
he  navigated  in  a  boat  for  upwards  of  150  miles. 

The  unsuccessful  attempt  of  the  experienced  African  traveller  Dr. 
Fischer  to  carry  succour  to  Dr.  Junker  in  1885-6,  a  mission  with 
whidi  he  was  charged  by  that  traveller's  family,  would  have  excited 
great  interest  in  the  earlier  days — ^not  long  past — of  Central  African 
travel.  The  route  he  took  led  for  several  hundred  miles  through  a 
totally  unexplored  country,  namely,  from  the  Pangani  westward  across 
the  region  which  still  remains  a  great  blank  on  our  maps  to  the  caravan 
route  between  Unyanyembe  and  Victoria  Nyanza.  He  reached  the 
southern  shores  of  the  Victoria  in  January  1886,  but  found  it  im- 
possible to  obtain  leave  to  pass  through  the  territory  of  the  fanatical 
king  of  Uganda.  Turning  backward  he  made  a  valiant  attempt  to 
reach  the  Upper  Nile  by  the  eastern  side  of  the  great  lake,  but  his 
supplies  failed  him  by  the  time  he  arrived  at  Lake  Bahriugo,  and  he 
returned  with  a  sorrowful  heart  to  the  coast.  He  did  not  long  survive 
the  fatigues  of  this  arduous  journey,  but  died  soon  after  his  return  to 
Europe,  in  November  last. 

In  the  continent  of  Asia  the  most  important  addition  to  our 
accurate  geographical  knowledge  of  the  interior  is  no  doubt  that 
gained  by  the  joint  Bussian  and  British  Commission,  which  has  been 
engaged  on  the  survey  of  the  northern  frontier  of  Afghanistan  from  the 
borders  of  Persia  to  the  Upper  Oxus,  but  pending  the  diplomatic  settle- 
ment of  disputed  (points  this  information  has  not  been  made  public, 
though  it  will  doubtless  soon  become  available.  A  brief  note  of  a  portion 
of  this  work,  describing  surveys  made  by  Captains  Maitland  and  Talbot, 
between  the  Hari-rud  and  Bamian,  connecting  Herat  with  the  last-named 
place,  and  also  with  points  north  of  the  Oxus,  and  the  neighbourhood  of 
Kunduz,  has  appeared  in  our  '  Proceedings.'  The  total  area  surveyed 
amounts  to  about  120,000  square  miles,  mapped  on  the  scale  of  ^  inch  to 
the  mile,  in  60  sheets.  These  brilliant  results  are  believed  to  be  unique 
in  liie  annals  of  surveying.  The  chief  of  the  British  topographical  staflF, 
by  whom  these  surveys  were  undertaken,  was  Colonel  Holdich,  to  whom 
one  of  the  Gold  Medals  has  now  been  awarded,  in  recognition  of  the 
valuable  services  to  geography  rendered  by  him  in  this  and  other  similar 
expeditions. 

Much  valuable  geographical  work  has  also  been  accomplished  by 
Mr.  Ney  Elias,  the  Gold  Medallist  in  1873,  who  was  despatched  from 
Ladakh  on  a  mission  to  Chinese  Turkistan,  and  diverging  westward  at 
Yengi-Hissar,  traversed  the  Pamir  Plateau  for  a  distance  of  360  miles, 
to  the  Khanat  of  Shignan.  The  details  of  this  journey  have  not  yet 
been  made  known  by  the  Indian  authorities,  but  Sir  Henry  Bawlinson 
has  communicated  to  our  *  Proceedings  'a  note  in  which  he  points  out 
that  his  former  suggestion  that  this  route,  first  brought  to  notice  by 


342     THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHY:  1886^ 


Major  Trotter,  was  probably  that  by  wiiicli  caravans  of  Rome  passed 
from  Bactria,  and  had  been  used  as  a  military  road  in  comparatively 
modem  times,  is  confirmed  by  the  additional  light  now  thrown  on  the 
subject ;  and  he  identifies  the  lake  Mang^Kul^  visited  and  described  by 
Mr.  Elias,  as  the  famona  Dragon  Lake  of  Buddhist  cosmogony,  and  as 
answering  Yery  closely  to  the  description  given  by  the  Chinese  traveller 
Hwang-taang  in  the  seventh  century. 

Mr,  A.  D,  Carey,  a  gentleman  in  the  Indian  Civil  Service,  has  in  a 
most  enterpiising  manner  devoted  a  period  of  leave  of  absence  to 
a  very  remarkable  journey  in  Eastern  Tnrkistan  and  Tibet,  and  has 
traversed  a  large  part  of  those  central  regions  which  have  lately 
been  made  known  by  General  Prejevalsky,  and  of  which  a  brief 
resume  was  given  in  the  last  Presidential  Address.  Accompanied 
by  Mr.  Dalglcish,  an  enterprising  trader,  who  had  previonsly  visited 
Eaatem  Tnrkistan,  he  started  from  Ladakh  in  the  snmmer  of  1885, 
taking  a  route  which  had  never  before  been  trodden  by  a  European,  from 
Leh  eastward  across  the  high  Tibetan  platean,  and  descending  to  Kiria 
by  an  extreiBely  difficult  and  rugged  defile  via  Polu,  After  a  short  stay 
here,  he  traversed  the  desert  northward,  along  the  course  of  the  Khotan 
river,  and  arriving  at  the  Tar i in  crossed  that  river  to  Shah-yar  and 
Kncliar.  At  the  end  of  the  year  ho  tracked  the  Taiim  to  Lako  Lob  and 
proceeded  thence  in  a  southward  direction  to  the  foot  of  the  great  escarp- 
ment which  in  this  meridian  forma  the  northern  limit  of  the  Tibetan 
highlands,  where  he  wintered,  and  made  a  fresh  start  across  the  Altyn 
Tagh  in  the  spring  of  1886.  No  news  having  been  received  of  him  for 
many  months,  bis  friends  had  begun  to  fear  for  his  safety,  but  all  anxiety 
has  been  sot  at  rest  by  recent  telegramB  from  India  announcing  his  safe 
arrival  at  Ladakh  at  the  end  of  the  winter.  Considering  that  Mr.  Carey 
travelled  without  escort  and  imarmed,  and  that  his  journey  has  been 
performed  on  Blender  means  through  vast  tmknown  tracts  peopled  by 
tribes  supposed  to  be  of  hostile  and  fanatical  temper,  his  exploit  is  on© 
of  the  most  remarkable  in  the  recent  annals  of  adventurous  travel* 

Northwards  of  Khatmandu,  the  capital  of  KepaJ,  about  four  hundred 
miles  of  entirely  new  traverse  in  Nepal  and  Tibet  has  been  contributed 
by  a  native  explorer,  surnamed  M — H.,  besides  a  confirmation  of  the 
details  of  a  hundred  miles  of  ground  previously  travelled  over.  It  is 
regretted  that  the  explorer  brought  back  no  determinations  of  heights, 
which  would  have  been  most  interesting,  for  he  crossed  the  main  ridge 
of  the  Himalayas  by  one  of  the  highest  passes  (the  Pungu-la)  and 
approached  within  fifteen  miles  of  Mount  Everest.  Another  native  enr- 
veyor,  E — N.,  who  accompanied  Colonel  Tanner  in  bis  explorations  on 
the  Tibetan  border  in  the  autumn  of  1884,  was  despatched  across  Bhutan 
and  the  mouataina  to  the  east  to  reach  Gyala  Sindong,  the  lowest  point 
yet  reached  on  the  Sanpo,  and  starting  from  the  left  bank  of  the  river» 
to  find  hie  way  back  to  India  by  ant/  practicable  route,  without  reorossing 


■ 


THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHY:  1886-7.     843 

the  river.  The  object  was  to  set  at  rest  the  vexed  question  of  the  con- 
nection between  the  Brahmaputra  and  the  Sanpo  on  the  one  hand  and 
the  Irawadi  on  the  other.  The  explorer  met  with  bad  luck  at  the 
outset,  from  the  fact  of  there  being  hostility  between  Tibet  and 
Bhutan,  a  state  of  things  which  had  closed  all  the  passes  into  Tibet. 
He  therefore  had  to  find  his  way  back  to  India  down  the  Hachhu 
and  Wongchu  rivers  to  Baxa,  having  been  detained  and  kept  under 
surveillance  for  ten  days  by  the  jongpon  of  Chukhajong.  His  next 
attempt  was  made  from  Dewangiri,  whence  he  proceeded  by  a  pretty 
direct  route  to  the  Monlakachung  Pass,  and  thence  to  the  vicinity  of  Seh, 
a  very  large  monastery  on  the  Lhobra  river,  the  position  of  which  had 
been  previously  obtained  from  the  north  by  Lama  U — G.'s  traverse  of 
1883.  Here,  in  consequence  of  the  rumours  regarding  the  advance  of 
the  Tibet  mission  from  the  south,  and  of  a  party  of  Eussians  from  the 
north,  the  officials  absolutely  stopped  his  further  progress,  and  kept  him 
in  custody  for  nine  days,  and  then  conveyed  his  party  under  escort  to 
Seh.  Thence  he  escaped  with  his  party  by  night,  and,  keeping  away 
from  the  beaten  tracks,  found  his  way  to  Menchuna  (lat.  28°  N.,  long. 
92°  E.),  and  thence,  via  Tawang,  to  Odalguri,  along  the  route  formerly 
traversed  by  Pundit  Nain  Singh.  His  work  furnishes  about  280  miles 
of  new  route  survey,  and  throws  light  on  the  general  geography  of 
Bhutan,  forming  a  connection  with  the  work  of  Pemberton  (1838)  from 
the  south,  and  of  the  Pundit  and  the  Lama  from  the  north. 

Another  journey  carried  out  by  three  English  gentlemen  through 
the  heart  of  Manchuria,  from  south  to  north  from  the  shores  of 
the  Yellow  Sea,  and  from  west  to  east  to  the  Eussian  settlement  of 
Vladivostock  on  the  Pacific  coast,  also  calls  for  notice.  The  party 
consisted  of  Mr.  H.  E.  M.  James,  of  the  Indian  Civil  Service,  Mr.  F.  B. 
Younghusband,  of  the  King's  Dragoon  Guards,  and  Mr.  H.  Fulford, 
of  the  Chinese  Consular  Service.  We  have  received  at  present  brief 
accounts  only  of  this  meritorious  achievement ;  but  they  are  sufficient 
to  show  that  the  travellers  made  excellent  use  of  their  opportunities 
of  gaining  accurate  information  regarding  the  country,  its  inhabitants 
and  products.  One  of  their  objects  was  to  ascend  the  Pei-shan  or  White 
Mountain,  the  highest  mountain  in  the  country,  which  they  accom- 
plished, and  fixed  its  altitude  by  boiling-point  and  aneroid  at  7525  feet, 
the  estimates  previously  given  in  books  making  it  10,000  or  12,000  feet. 
A  very  good  map  of  their  route  was  plotted  and  a  copy  obligingly  com- 
municated to  the  Society.  Mr.  James  has  just  arrived  in  England,  and 
we  may  hope  to  have  an  early  opportunity  of  hearing  from  his  own  lips 
an  account  of  his  journey. 

The  recent  addition  of  Upper  Burma  to  the  territories  administered 
by  the  Viceroy  of  India,  makes  it  certain  that  before  long  the  various 
questions  that  have  till  now  puzzled  geographers  in  relation  to  the 
course  of  the  rivers  that  rise  in  Tibet  and  flow  from  that  country,  will 


344     THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHY:  188S-7. 


be  finally  cleared  np,  and  a  staflf  of  surveyors  under  Captain  Hobday  is 
already  at  work  in  this  country.  The  sonrcee  of  the  Brahmaputra  have 
already  been  clearly  designated,  but  doubta  itOl  surround  the  origins 
of  the  Irawadi,  which  actual  surveys  will,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  before  long 
dkpeL 

The  expectations  entertained  of  the  opening  up  of  the  still 
unknown  interior  of  New  Guinea,  from  the  gouthem  or  Britiflh  por- 
tion of  the  island^  by  the  expedition  of  Mr.  H*  O*  Forbes,  have* 
unfortunately,  not  been  fulfilled.  Mr.  Forbes  spent  the  rainy  season 
in  the  early  part  of  1886  in  camp,  at  a  short  distance  inland  from 
Port  Moresby,  profiting  by  the  enforced  inactivity,  in  cultivating 
friendly  relationw  with  the  tribes,  learning  the  languages  and  making 
botanical  collections.  The  remainder  of  his  resources  during  these 
months  was  exhausted^  and  when  at  the  oomm  en  cement  of  the  fine 
eeaeouj  in  April,  he  made  a  bold  attempt  with  the  great  advantage  of 
the  companionship  of  the  Eev.  *T.  Chalmers,  to  reach  the  summit  of  the 
Owen  Stanley  range,  the  term  of  service  of  his  Amboynese  escort  had 
expired,  and  he  could  do  no  more  than  make  a  few  observations  in  the 
rugged  country  at  the  foot  of  tho  mountain p,  75  miles  distant  from  the 
coast.  Since  then  he  has  not  been  enabled  to  renew  his  explorations. 
We  learn,  however,  that  tho  Government  of  Victoria  has  taken  the  matter 
in  hand^  and  that  a  well-equipped  expedition  is  in  preparation  for  the 
exploration  of  the  interior,  the  leadership  of  which  is  to  he  offered  to 
Mr,  Chalmers,  whose  account  of  his  varied  explorations  along  the 
south-eastern  coast  region,  given  at  one  of  our  evening  meetings  during 
this  session,  will  be  fresh  in  your  memories.  The  great  influence 
which  this  experienced  missionary  pioneer  has  obtained  over  the  natives, 
and  his  knowledge  of  their  habits,  inspires  us  with  great  hopes  in 
the  success  of  this  enterprise,  which  so  much  depends  on  the  willingness 
and  fidelity  of  native  followers.  Several  minor  excursions  have  sine© 
been  made  by  various  travellers,  but  very  little  has  been  added  to  our 
knowledge  of  the  southern  portion  of  the  island.  Captain  Evenirs 
larger  expedition,  fitted  out  in  Kew  South  Wales,  succeeded  in  ascending 
the  Fly  river  and  penetrating  for  some  distance  up  an  eastern  arm  or 
tributary  named  the  Strickland,  which  is  said  to  flow  in  the  rear  of  the 
range  of  ooast  hLtls,  but  the  map  of  the  parts  explored  has  not  yet 
reached  us. 

In  German  New  Guinea  the  discoveiy  of  the  important  river,  named 
after  the  Empress  Augusta,  was  conflnned  by  Captain  Ballmann  who  in 
April  1886  ascended  it  in  a  small  steamer  for  a  distance  of  40  miles, 
and  it  has  since  been  further  navigated  by  Admiral  Yon  Schleinitz  and 
I)r.  Schrader  in  the  steamer  Oiilie,  which  reached  a  distance  of  224  milee 
from  the  mouth,  the  ship's  steam  launch  ascending  112  miles  further, 
finding  still  sufficient  water  but  being  obliged  to  return  for  want  of 


THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHY:  1886-7.     846 

The  progress  made  in  the  great  continent  of  America  which  still 
offers  wide  fields  for  the  explorer  and  still  wider  and  more  productive 
fields  for  the  physical  geographer,  remains  now  to  be  briefly  noticed. 
As  a  contribution  to  physical  geography,  Mr.  John  Ball's  recently 
published  volume  on  his  voyage  round  South  America  and  various  short 
journeys  inland  at  various  points,  merits  special  mention.  It  is  a  model 
of  what  serious  books  of  travel  that  aim  at  conveying  accurate  know- 
ledge of  the  countries  visited,  ought  to  be. 

In  Central  America,  our  colleague,  Mr.  A.  P.  Maudslay,  continues  his 
explorations  of  the  sites  and  his  studies  of  ruined  cities,  having  returned 
to  Yucatan  and  Guatemala  after  reading  tons  in  June  last  the  results  of 
his  second  and  third  visits  to  Central  America.  His  work  has  great 
geographical  and  ethnological  as  well  as  antiquarian  interest,  and  his 
excavations  at  Copan  show  that  the  ruins  are  those  of  a  city  and  not 
simply  of  a  group  of  sacred  edifices,  and  that  the  course  of  the  Copan 
river  has  changed  somewhat  since  the  remote  time  at  which  the  massive 
walls  of  the  buildings  had  been  erected.  He  believes  that  he  has  good 
ground  for  concluding  that  Copan  and  other  cities  were  abandoned 
before  the  Spanish  discovery  of  America  in  1492. 

Lastly,  there  remains  to  notice  an  admirable  laboar  of  exploration  in 
the  interior  of  Brazil  by  a  private  scientific  expedition  consisting  of 
Dr.  Karl  von  den  Steinen,  Herr  W.  von  den  Steinen  and  Dr.  Otto  Claus. 
These  gentlemen  set  themselves  the  task  of  exploring  the  course  of  the 
Xingu,  one  of  the  great  southern  tributaries  of  the  Amazons.  The 
work  was  accomplished  in  1884,  but  the  first  detailed  accounts  of  it  were 
published  only  in  May  and  June  last  year.  The  party  proceeded  in 
the  first  place  overland  to  Cuyaba  in  the  far  interior  and,  organising 
there  their  caravan,  proceeded  to  the  sources  of  the  great  river,  and 
descending  along  the  banks  of  the  principal  stream,  through  wild 
Indian  territory,  to  the  point  where  it  becomes  navigable,  built  bark 
canoes  and  paddled  down  the  river  a  distance  of  about  1000  miles  to  its 
junction  with  the  Amazons.  Throughout  the  journey,  in  addition  to  the 
geographical  survey,  physical,  biological,  and  anthropological  observa- 
tions were  made  with  the  usual  thoroughness  of  German  travellers. 

For  the  following  brief  report  on  the  Admiralty  surveys  of  the  year 
1886  I  am  indebted  to  our  colleague,  Captain  W.  J.  L.  WhartoD,  Hydro- 
grapher. 

The  portions  of  the  globe  where  surveying  vessels  have  been  engaged 
under  the  orders  of  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty  are  as 
follows  : — England,  east  and  west  coasts ;  river  St.  Lawrence ;  British 
Guiana ;  north-western  coasts  of  Africa  and  Spain ;  Eastern  Archipelago  ; 
China;  Australia;  Tasmania;  Coral  Sea;  New  Guinea;  and  Banks 
Islands,  New  Hebrides.  These  vessels  consisted  of  seven  steamships  of 
war,  three  sailing  schooners  of  Her  Majesty's  Navy,  and  two  hired  steam- 
ships, manned  by  81  officers  and  659  men.     A  detailed  report  of  the 


346     THE  ANNUAL  ADDKESS  ON  THE  PUOGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHV:  imQ- 


work  accomplished  by  eacli  surveying  vessel  will  shortly  be  presented 
to  Parliament  in  accordance  with  custom. 

The  chief  additions  to  hy^lrography  resulting  from  the  labours  of 
the  surveying  officers  arc  as  under  : — 

Ai  home.— A  re-surve^^  of  tho  Would,  an  important  navigable  area 
fronting  the  Norfolk  shore  between  Winterton  and  Cromorj  including  tho 
dangerous  shoal  banks  Hai^boroogh  Sand  and  Hammonds  KnoU,  which 
were  last  examined  in  1328-30.  A  thorough  examination  for  tbe  first 
time  of  the  outer  Dowsing  Shoal,  an  extensive  bank  30  miles  from  the 
shore  at  the  north-eastern  approach  to  the  Wash-  Completion  of  the 
new  chart  of  the  British  Channel. 

Abroad* — In  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  a  re-survey  of  the  narrowest  and 
shallowest  pttssages  eastward  of  Quebec,  known  as  the  Traverses,  This 
survey  showed  that  considerable  changes  had  taken  place  since  it  was 
previously  examined,  nearly  sixty  years  ago. 

In  British  Gtiiana,  a  re-survey  of  Demerara  with  its  approaches,  as 
also  the  ship  channel  leading  into  EsH6t|uibo  river. 

On  the  north-west  coast  of  Africa,  a  new  survey  of  the  mouth  of  tho 
river  Gambia,  embracing  Bathnrst  anchorage,  and  dctcrminatioii  of  the 
astronomical  positions  of  the  salient  {joints  and  chief  places  between 
Bathurst  and  Marighan* 

In  China,  a  detailed  triangulation  of  the  coast  and  islands  from 
Amherst  rocks,  at  the  mouth  of  tho  Yang-t«e,  southward  to  Ockseu,  a 
distance  of  400  miles  in  a  direct  line,  was  executed  with  precision  and 
accuracy,  A  chart  of  the  outtir  approaches  to  tho  river  Min,  embracing 
the  islands  of  Cbangchi,  Matsou,  and  White  Dogs,  was  made  and  joined 
to  tho  survey  of  the  northern  entrance  to  Hai-tan  Strait,  Completed 
188.J. 

In  the  Eastern  Archipelago,  the  charts  of  the  trade  routes  between 
China  and  tlie  Australian  Colonies  have  been  improved  by  a  survey  of 
Cnyos  Islands  (Sulu  Sea),  and  additional  soundings  taken  off  the  north 
part  of  Cagayanes  Islands  and  in  Banka  Strait  (Celebes).  Near  Port 
Darwin,  Dundas  and  Clarence  Straits,  now  being  much  used  by  vessoK 
have  been  partly  re-surveyed.  On  the  West  Coast  of  Australia,  a  survey 
in  ample  detail  of  that  portion  of  Shark  Bay  north  of  Dirk  Ilartog 
Island.  In  Tasmania,  a  new  chart  of  D'Entrecasteaux  Channel  loading 
to  Hobart  and  a  re-survey  of  tho  eastern  entrance  of  Bass  Strait  between 
Flinders  Island  and  Wilson  Promontory  on  tho  mainland  of  Australia. 
On  the  Queensland  Coast,  completion  of  the  shore-line  and  waters  inside 
the  Great  Barrier  Reef  from  Cape  Upstart  northward  to  Townsville. 

The  rapid  advance  of  the  colony  of  Queensland  has  made  it  desirable 
to  ascertain  whether  more  passages  do  not  exist  through  the  Great 
Barrier  Reef  that  stretches  for  so  many  miles  along  the  coast  and  bars 
the  approach,  than  are  now  known,  as  also  to  settle  definitely  the  posi- 
tionfl  of  the  many  dangers  which  stud  the  Coral  Sea,  which  must  be 


THE  .iNKUAL  ADDRESS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHY:  1886-7,     347 


traverecd  hj  vessels  comiBg  from  the  nortli-<5aBt.  To  this  end  the  sur- 
veying Tessek  in  Australia  have  examined  parts  of  this  great  reef  and 
the  following  passages  have  been  siirvoyed :— Lark  Pass,  a  new  and 
good  channel  and  convenient  for  vessels  leaving  Cooktown ;  Flora  Pass, 
an  opening  Bouth  of  Cape  Grafton  (reported  in  1883),  proves  to  be  a 
convenient  and  safe  passage  throngh  the  Barrier ;  an  ojiening  directly 
opposite  Townsville  that  was  recently  reported  to  be  fifteen  milt3s  wide. 
No  wide  and  straight  opening  conld  be  found  in  this  locality,  although 
the  detached  nature  of  the  reefs  makes  the  passage  easy  from  inside  in 
fftvonrahle  weather.  In  addition  to  these  surveys  the  chart  of  Flinders 
Passage  also  received  amendments  from  the  four  tracks  of  a  surveying 
vessel  through  it. 

Our  knowledge  of  the  Coral  Sea  has  been  much  enlarged  by  the 
Buocessful  charting  of  the  following  coral  reefs  and  islets : — Holmes^ 
Flora^  Moore,  Flinders,  Bart,  Herald,  Surprise,  Bougainville  [Heath 
Eeef],  Diane  Bank  [Owen  Sand  Islet],  Coringa  Islets*  Some  of  these 
dangers  were  a  source  of  anxiety  to  tho  mariner,  from  the  doubtful 
positions  assigned  to  them  ;  and  it  is  now  believed  that  tho  long  vexed 
question  of  the  dangers  reported  by  Bougainville,  so  far  back  as  1768, 
but  which  have  never  since  been  sighted,  although  searched  for  by 
more  than  one  ship,  is  now  settled.  The  soundings  obtained  over  that 
area  of  the  Coral  Sea  in  which  the  above  reefs  and  islets  ai*e  situated, 
furnish  the  first  information  as  to  the  general  depths,  and  it  appears  by 
them  that  the  known  reefs  stand  upon  a  great  plateau,  from  600  to 
800  fathoms  beneath  the  surface,  and  that  oceanic  depths  do  not  exist 
between  the  reefs. 

In  New  Guinea,  an  accurate  survey  has  been  made  of  the  passages 
leading  to  Goschen  Strait  through  China  Strait.  This  route  will,  no 
doubt,  be  at  some  fature  time  largely  need  by  steamers  trading  between 
Eastern  Australia  and  China  and  Japan.  The  shore-line  of  New 
Guinea  from  Su-a-u  eastward,  to  the  North  Foreland,  as  also  between 
Killerton  Point  and  East  Cape,  was  included  in  China  Strait  survey. 
Northward  of  Port  Moresby*  in  continuation  of  the  portion  surveyed  in 
1885,  the  shore-line  was  charted  as  far  as  Hall  Sound.  In  the  New 
Hebrides^  a  sketch  survey  of  Banks  Islands  has  been  carried  out. 

Under  tho  orders  of  the  Indian  Government  the  Marine  Survey  of 
British  India  charted  the  principal  approaches  to  Mergui,  a  rising  port 
of  trade  on  the  coast  of  Tenasserim,  and  also  examined  the  usual  track 
through  Mergui  Archipelago,  southward  to  the  entrance  of  Pak  Chan 
river.  Detailed  surveys  were  also  made  of  the  near  approaches  to 
Bhaunagar,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Gulf  of  Cambay,  and  also  Mandwa 
Bay  outside  that  gulf. 

Under  the  Dominion  Government  of  Canada,  the  northern  shores 
of  Georgian  Bay,  between  Collins  and  Byng  Inlets,  have  been  charted. 

During  tho  year  the  Hydrographie  Department  baa  published  57 

No.  TL— June  1887,]  2  c 


1 

i 


348     THE  ANNUAL  ADDEESS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GKOGRAPHT;  1886-7. 

new  chai-ts  and  plans,  and  improved  20  charts  by  the  addition  of  29 
new  plana.     2700  correctionB  have  been  made  to  the  chart  plates* 

It  will  not  be  out  of  place,  at  the  present  tim%  when  our  ootrn try- 
men  are  celebrating  in  all  parta  of  the  globe  the  fiftieth  j'ear  of  the 
reign  of  Her  Majesty  Queen  Victoria^  to  look  back  on  the  progress  that 
has  been  made  in  geographical  knowledge  since  the  commencement  of 
that  reign  which  dates  seven  years  after  the  foundation  of  our  Society. 
The  time  at  my  disposal  will  only  admit  of  an  extremely  brief  review, 
and  I  would  refer  you  for  more  ample  detfiils  to  the  valuable  memoir 
drawn  up  by  our  esteemed  secretary,  Mr,  Clements  Markham,  and 
published  by  the  Society  a  few  years  back,  under  the  title  of  '  Fifty 
Years'  Work  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society •*  A  comparison  of  the 
maps  of  fifty  years  ago  with  those  of  the  present  day  shows  how  great 
have  been  the  additions  mad©  to  our  knowledge  during  tliis  period* 
Foremost,  in  this  respect,  must  be  placed  the  maps  of  Africa,  the 
interior  of  which  has  been  transformed  from  an  almost  complete 
blank,  oontaining  little  more  than  hypothetical  geographical  featxires 
derived  from  the  reports  of  native  trade rs*  some  of  which  had  been 
handed  down  to  us  from  the  time  of  Ptolemy,  to  trustworthy  representa- 
tions, based  on  precise  data,  of  a  vast  system  of  rivers^  lakes,  and  mountains, 
the  existence  of  which  had  been  wholly  unknown  to  the  civilised 
world*  This  continent  has  at  length  been  traversed  and  retraversed 
in  ail  directions,  and  what  remains  unknown,  consists  of  details 
needed  to  fill  in  well-ascertained  large  outlines,  rather  than  essential 
features  still  to  be  discovered.  Closely  following  the  progress  of 
geographical  research,  some  of  the  latest  fruits  of  which  it  has  been 
my  agreeable  duty  to  recognise  to-day,  when  presenting  one  of  the 
Gold  Medals  of  the  Society  to  Mr.  Grenfell,  the  advance  of  commercial 
enterprise  is  already  carrying  the  pioneers  of  civilisation,  reoiniited 
from  all  the  principal  States  of  Europe,  into  the  heart  of  what  may 
without  exaggeration  be  called  a  newlj-found  quarter  of  the  globe. 

The  additions  Uj  out  knowledge  of  the  great  insular  continent  of 
Australia  have  Vicen  hardly  less  remarkable ;  and  the  difficulties 
that  have  been  overcome,  and  the  enterprise  and  endurance  displayed 
in  the  investigation  of  its  geography,  have  never  been  surpassed 
in  the  history  of  the  earth's  exploration.  Here,  too,  hand  in 
hand  with  the  advance  of  geographical  knowledge,  the  domain  of 
civilisation  has  been  extended,  and  the  Australian  colonies  have  started 
into  existence  fully  armed  as  it  were  from  their  birth  for  the  battle  of 
national  life.  Our  fellow- subjects  in  those  distant  countries  have 
already  displayed  their  complete  fitness  to  undertake  the  task  of  further 
geographical  investigation  in  that  quarter,  and  to  them  we  may  now 
confidently  leave  it,  assuring  them  of  the  continued  sympathy  and 
interest  with  which  their  labours  will  be  regarded  by  this  Society, 

During  the  period  to  which  I  am  referring,  much  ako  has  been 


THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS  057  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHf:  1886- 


349 


done  to  a«H  to  oiir  knowledge  of  the  formerlj  little  tinderstood  geography 
of  Central  Asia.  The  Hiiflsian  geographers  on  the  north,  and  our  own 
Bnrreyors  on  the  aouth,  have  now  almost  entirely  cleared  away  the 
darkness  that  shrouded  this  part  of  the  earth's  snrface.  The  limits  and 
the  nature  of  the  central  plain  lying  between  the  nionntains  of  Siberia 
and  of  Tibet  have  T:»een  at  length  BatiKfactorilj^  ascertained.  The  long 
diacnssed  problem  of  the  true  source  of  the  Brabmapntra  has  tieen 
finally  solved.  The  remarkable  plateau  of  Tibet  baa  l3een  crossed  in 
many  directions, and  important  parts  of  it  have  been  accuTately  anrveyed, 
flo  that  here  also  what  remains  to  be  done  is  rather  to  complete  the 
delineation  of  details  than  to  enter  upon  altogether  new  investigations. 

The  large  geodetic  and  topographical  operations  in  connection  with 
the  international  demarcation  of  the  northern  boundary  of  Afghanistan, 
will  supply  all  that  seems  still  required  to  complete  the  maps  of 
Western  Asia  between  the  Indus  and  the  Caspian. 

Turning  to  the  American  continent,  we  find  a  measure  of  progress 
which,  to  say  the  least  of  it,  quite  equals  that  obtained  elsewhere.  The 
exploration  of  the  vast  tract  lying  between  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi 
and  the  Pacific  has  been  carried  out  by  the  United  States  Government 
with  a  degree  of  completeness,  both  in  respect  to  its  topographical 
representation  and  its  pbyeical  characteristics,  that  has  probably  never 
been  approached  elsewhere,  and  the  whole  country  has  thus  been  thrown 
open  to  the  enterprise  of  the  energetic  citizens  of  the  United  States,  who 
have  not  been  slow  to  possess  themselves  of  its  natural  wealth. 

In  British  North  America,  under  less  favourable  conditions  for  the 
prosecution  of  such  systematic  surveys  as  those  carried  out  in  the 
territories  of  the  United  States^  much  has  still  been  done,  and  the  recent 
opening  of  the  railway  connecting  Columbia  on  the  Pacific  with  the 
eastern  Canadian  States,  and  the  establishment  of  another  through  route 
to  Eastern  Asia,  will  doubtless  before  long  lead  to  the  thorough  explora- 
tion of  the  countries  through  which  the  railway  passes. 

The  Arctic  voyages  which  had  been  originally  commenced  with  the 
hope  of  finding  a  practically  useful  north-west  passage  to  Asia^  have  long 
oeaaed  to  be  animated  by  such  an  expectation,  and  their  rejietition  has 
been  undertaken  in  the  cause  of  geographical  exploration  alone. 

The  results  of  the  numerous  expeditions  undertaken  during  the 
last  fifty  years,  combined  with  those  obtained  by  land  joumeys  directed 
from  British  North  America^  have  very  completely  defined  the 
southern  border  of  the  Polar  Sea  between  Behring  Strait  and  Greenland^ 
and  have  secured  the  precise  delineation  of  the  somewhat  complicated 
system  of  channels  by  which  the  northern  border  of  the  American 
continent  is  intersected,  and  of  the  islands  formed  by  them,  along  the 
Arctic  circle.  In  like  manner  the  boundary  of  this  sea  has  been 
determined  by  voyages  directed  to  the  north-east  along  the  northern 
border  of  Asia. 

2  c  2 


850     THE  ANNL^AL  ADDRESS  OK  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHY:  1880-7, 

The  higlxest  latitude  readied  hitberto  is  ratlier  less  than  83^"*  N. 
— that  hj  within  500  miles  of  the  Pole.  The  further  extension  of  the  ex- 
ploration of  the  north  of  Greeoland  and  of  Franz- Josef  Land  may  still 
b©  possible,  and  it  U  hy  journeys  in  this  direction  that  any  closer  approach 
to  the  North  Pole  will  probably  ho  moat  readily  attainable. 

I  should  not  omit  mention  of  the  memorable  voyage  to  the  awtarctio 
circle  under  the  most  experienced  of  Ibe  Arctic  naval  commanders  of  his 
time,  the  results  of  which  were  of  the  greatest  scientific  value,  though 
the  difficulties  arising  from  climate  that  stand  in  the  way  of  a  near 
approach  to  the  South  Pole  prevented  the  expedition  reaching  a  higher 
latitnde  than  78''  II' S. 

Lastly,  I  may  notice  the  remarkable  additions  that  have  lieen  made 
during  this  epoch  to  our  knowledge  of  the  ocean,  its  depths,  its  tempera- 
ture, the  i;^nnds  and  climates  that  prevail  over  its  various  portions,  its 
currents,  and  the  life  with  which  it  aboundn.  Much  of  the  knowledge 
thus  acquired  has  supplied  completely  new  and  wholly  unexpected  data 
with  which  to  deal  in  our  endeavours  to  interpret  the  earth's  histor3% 
and  to  understand  the  phenomena  it  presents  to  us. 

It  has  been  in  connection  with  the  extension  of  geographical  dis- 
covery, both  that  to  which  I  have  thus  more  specially  referred,  and 
other  similar  explorations  to  which  specific  reference  has  not  been 
possible,  that  there  has  been  accumulated  a  great  mass  of  knowledge 
which  has  had  a  most  important  place  among  tho  canses  which  justify 
our  assigning  to  this  epoch  its  conspicuous  character  of  deserving  to  be 
recorded  in  the  history  of  the  present  times,  as  the  age  of  scientific 
progress.  There  is  no  room  to  doubt  that  it  was  only  by  aid  of  the 
accumulation  of  a  knowledge  of  numerous  forms  of  life  from  various 
countries,  develofied  under  different  conditions,  that  the  remarkable 
generalisations  of  Darwin  and  Wallace  as  to  tbo  origin  and  distribution 
of  species  became  possible ;  and  that  in  this  sense  those  great  conceptions 
of  the  signification  of  tho  wonderful  variety  in  the  forms  of  animal  and 
vegetable  life,  and  of  the  remarkable  manner  in  which  they  are  found 
associated  in  various  parts  of  the  earth,  which  it  has  truly  been  said  are 
worthy  of  being  classed  with  the  sublime  discoveries  of  Newton,  may  be 
regarded  as  consequences  of  geographical  exploration  and  discovery. 
In  a  somewhat  similar  manner  the  progress  of  geology  follows  that 
of  geography,  and  the  same  may  be  said  of  almost  all  the  natural 
sciences. 

In  some  branches  of  science  the  student  is  able  to  submit  his  con- 
clusions to  tbe  test  of  cxperimentj  to  vary  the  conditions  of  his  investi- 
gaHon  at  his  pleasure,  and  to  draw  his  inferences  from  the  varying  results 
under  tbe  changed  conditions*  In  the  great  laboratory  of  nature  no 
sncb  contml  of  conditions  is  within  our  power.  But  by  suitable  varia- 
tion of  onr  geographical  position,  we  are  able  to  observe  the  eflects 
Ihat  thephysical  forces  of  nature  have  produced  under  vailed  conditions. 


THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHr:  1886- 


351 


and  it  thus  becomes  possible  to  some  extent  to  obtain  a  substitute  for 
tlie  power  of  direct  experiment. 

Properly  to  estimate  the  relation  between  geographical  conditions  and 
any  observed  effect,  it  is  obviously  necessary  to  possess  a  sound  know- 
ledge of  the  physical  forces  that  may  be  called  into  operation  in  pro- 
dncing  that  effect,  and  consequently  such  a  kDowledga  is  of  essential 
importance  to  every  geographer, 

I  shall  not  detain  you  to  say  anything  more  on  the  mnch-discuased 
subject  of  geographical  education.  I  desire  to  point  out,  however,  that 
for  such  reasons  as  I  have  briefly  indicated,  it  is  hardly  possible  to  over- 
estimate the  value  of  exact  and  scientific  geographical  research,  and  that 
this  can  only  be  attained  by  those  Tvho  have  been  properly  prepared  by 
previous  training.  Such  a  training,  it  is  hoped,  maybe  provided  by  the 
instruetiou  which  it  hiis  been  the  earnest  desire  of  the  Society  to  sco 
imparted  at  our  chief  Universities,  and  which  I  trust  may  not  only  add  to 
the  number  of  our  scientific  travellers,  but  serve  generally  to  throw  on 
many  other  branches  of  a  tody  that  light  which  an  intelligent  knowledge 
of  geography  alone  can  supply, 

OBITUARY  FOR  THE  YEAR  188C-7, 

As  stated  in  the  Council  Report^  we  have  lost  by  death  during  the  year  no  fewer 
than  seventy-five  of  our  number,  besides  five  Honorary  CorreBponding  Members. 
Among  them  were  several  of  onr  moat  active  and  esteemed  colleagues,  and  others 
eminent  as  geographers  and  scientific  travellers.  Detailed  notices  of  some  of  these 
have  already  appeared  in  the  pages  of  oar  monthly  *  Proceedings,'  viz.  Colonel  Sir  J.  U. 
Bateman  Champain',  U.K.;  Sir  T,  Douklas  Fousyth;  Colonel  C.  M.  Macgbegok, 
K.c,0. ;  M.  A.  W,  MuoRK,  CB. ;  Admiral  Budfobd  Pjm  ;  and  Dr«  E.  Rufpell. 
A  brief  account  of  the  chief  work  of  General  C.  M.  8 tone,  Colonel  De  PaiiE  and 
Dr*  H.  J.  Mann  is  given  in  the  foregoing  Presidential  Address,  and  a  memoir  of 
Don  Mariano  Felipe  Pak  Soldan,  from  the  pea  of  Mr.  Mahkhamj  appears  in  the 
present  number  of  the  *  Proceedings.'  The  names  of  the  others,  many  of  whom  were 
men  of  high  distinction  in  diflferent  walks  of  Ufe»  are  as  follows : — 

Sir  Wm.  p.  Anurew,  whose  active  life  was  spent  m  the  promotion  and  ad- 
ministration of  railways  in  India,  and  who  was  for  many  years  Chairman  of  the 
Sfjnde  Railway  Compauy :  he  was  the  author  of  several  pamphlets  on  the  Euphrates 
Valley  route  to  India;  Dr.  Hermann  Adich,  kuowu  for  his  biological  luvestiga- 
tions  iu  tbe  Caucasus;  G.  F.  Anga**,  artist  and  traveller,  the  author  of  a  pictorial 
work  on  Zulu  land,  and  of  i>opulftr  volumes  on  Australia  and  Polynesia  j  he  died  on 
the  4th  October  last;  Kev.  A,  Audy  ;  Bear-Admiral  W.  Arthur,  e, a,,  who  had 
seen  mnch  active  service  in  the  Maori  and  KaQr  wars  of  I845-T  and  1851-2,  in  the 
Baltic  and  Black  Sea  duriog  the  Russian  war,  and  in  the  China  war  of  1857-60, 
He  served  as  naval  attach^  at  Washington  from  1879  to  1882 ;  the  Right  Hon, 
A»  S.  Ayrton  ;  R.  A,  Brooks  ;  Sir  C.  J.  Fox  BunburYj  Bart, ;  J,  Bkobib  ;  Captain 
E,  BuHSTAii,  B,x.,  the  eminent  marine  engineer.  Secretary  to  the  Thames  Con- 
servators  since  1857 ;  X  H.  Batten  ;  Gzo*  Bishop  ;  H.  Blaine  ;  A.  C.  Baldwin*  ; 
Viscount  Babrinoton;  J.  H,  Baxkkdalie;  Capt,  E,  G.  Bayktok,  b.k.r.  ;  Rev. 
Thos.  Butler  ;  J.  Bbamley-Moore;  E.  Biocirss;  W,  Beksok  ;  F.  Cooksox;  E, 
Cooling  ;  A.  Cassels  ;  Geohoe  Clowes,  member  of  the  well-known  printing  firm 
of  William  Clowes  &  Sons,  tiie  Society's  printers ;  J.  Tt.  Deane  ;  Capt,  Neil  D,  C. 


352 


THE  LU  KIVEK  OF  TIBET; 


F.  Douglas,  S<iot«  Faailier  Guards  j  W.  E.  H*  Elli^  ;  H<  Ec€Les  j  ViBOOunt 
Falkland;  \V.  Fpidge;  J.  Pielden;  W.  Gillespie;  G.  13,  Glover;  J.  Y. 
CxiBhOX,  the  emioeot  Sinanifih  schokr  and  translator  of  Cervantes;  James  Gibbs, 
C.8.L,  Member  of  tlic  Indian  GoTemment  and  Chancellor  of  the  University  of 
Bombay,  at  an  earlier  time  Assistant  CommiBsioBer  In  Scmde  nrwier  Sir  Bartle 
Frere;  R*  R.  Gloveb;  JU  Hakkey;  A.  B,  lucjLig;  R.  Jeffs;  JL  WAnn  Jackson ; 
T*  C.  Jack  ;  Sir  Geo.  KejJjNeh,  it*c*JC.G.,  a  distinguiBhed  Member  of  the  Indian 
Civil  Service,  who^amongst  other  posts  had  occupied  that  of  Financial  Commiaaioner 
in  Cyprus;  J,  Kemfsteh;  Lord  Kin>aird  ;  Sir  Luke  S.Leake;  A.  Lawrence; 
Kev.  J,  Lo^'G  ;  Colooel  Sir  W.  Owen  Lanyon,  kx.m jj.,  whose  chief  military  services 
were  rendered  in  Africa,  for  be  was  aide-de-camp  to  General  Wolseley  in  the 
Ashaoti  Ex|ie<lilioTi,  Administrator  in  Griqualand  West^  taking  part  afterwards  in 
the  Zulu  war,  and  in  1882  was  Commandant  of  the  hose  of  operations  in  Egypt ; 
A.  B.  McQueen  Mackintosh  ;  G.  Dk  Laudke  Maciwna  ;  Admiral  Sir  G.  N. 
Broke-Mi DDLETON,  Bart, ;  hii*  period  of  service  in  the  Navy  extended  from  the  battle 
of  Kavarino,  at  which  he  was  present  as  a  midshipman,  and  the  capture  of  St,  Jean 
d'Acre,  to  the  Crimean  war ;  A.  Matheson  ;  General  R.  C.  Moodv,  TwE.*  wlio  was 
Governor  of  the  Falkland  Islands  from  1843  to  1847,  and  from  1858  to  1863  Chief 
Commissioner  of  Lands  and  Works  in  British  Columbia,  during  which  period  thL* 
foundations  of  the  capital.  New  Westminster,  %vere  laid,  and  Port  Moody  (named 
after  him),  the  westernmost  fioint  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway;  Lieut.-Col.  G. 
Napier,  r.a.;  E,  PiERREroxT, ;  W.  L,  Powell,  r.n.;  Capt,  W.  B.  PnrLiJMORE, 
Grenadier  Guards ;  Capt,  Lonsdale  Pounden  ;  Euqene  Kimmel  ;  E.  K.  Simmons  ; 
E.  Stoey;  Rev.  M,  C.  T.  Stdrmax  ;  J.  Sarll;  Sir  Charles  E.  Trevelyan, 
Bart. ;  R.  Vause;  W.  S.  Whitwoktu  ;  G.  W,  Wheat  ley  ;  E.  Watt;  and  laatly 
Jasies  Wyld,  the  well-known  cartographer  and  map  publisher,  who  ooutribnted 
much  during  bis  time  to  the  dilTusion  of  geographical  information,  especially  hj 
his  *'  Great  Globe,*' which  he  erected  in  Leicester  Square  in  1851,  and  maintained 
as  a  public  esiiibition  for  ten  years. 


The  Lu  River  of  Tibet ;  h  it  the  source  of  (he  Irawadi  or  the  Saluin  1 
By  General  J.  T.  Walker,  b.e.,  f.r,8. 

(Read  at  the  Evening  Meeting,  April  25th,  1887.) 
Mop  J  p.  r.r»8. 

That  vast  and  biglil}'  elevated  regioD,  in  the  heart  of  Asia,  which  ir 
called  Tibet  by  Europeans  but  Bod-yul  or  Peu-yiil  by  the  natives  of  the 
country,  is  bordered  to  tho  south  principally  by  the  Himalayan  mountain 
ranges^  wrbich  Btietch  IGOO  miles  in  longitudinal  chains,  running  east  and 
west  between  the  74tli  and  the  l)8th  meridians,  and  also  by  a  system  of 
meridional  chains  lying  across  a  further  stretch  of  about  250  miles 
up  to  tho  102nd  meridian,  at  right  angles  to  the  Himalayas,  which  are 
ofl&hoots  from  the  Tibetan  plateau  into  Upper  Burma  and  tbo  Yunnan 
province  of  China.  The  region  is  highest  on  the  north,  its  loftiest 
tableland^  tho  Lingzi-tang  plateau  ^which  lies  between  Eastern  Turki- 
atan  and  Ladak^rising  to  tho  enormous  altitude  of  17,600  feet  above 
the  BearleveL     This  plateau  abuts  against  tho  Kiun-Lun  (Kuen-Luon) 


IS  IT  THE  SOimCE  OF  THE  IRAWADI  OR  THE  SALWIN  ? 


853 


rangea  whicli  constitute  tbo  northern  ecarp,  as  the  Hiinalayae  the 
scmthem,  of  what  is  probably  the  greatest  existing  protuberance  above 
the  general  level  of  the  earth*s  crust.  Thence  the  surface  of  the  ground 
slopes  gratlnally  to  the  east  and  west  and  Bouth,  nowhere  falling  below 
10,000  feet  but  on  the  extreme  southern  border.  On  the  north  varioua 
Bmall  rivei's  Eod  their  waj  through  openings  in  the  Kiun-Lnn  to  become 
Icjst  in  the  Tarim  basin  and  the  Gobi  desert,  and  one  considerable  river, 
the  Iloang-ho,  desceods  into  the  plains  of  Northern  China  and  the  desert 
beyond  the  Great  Wall,  and  after  many  windings  enters  the  Whanghai 
or  Yellow  Sea ;  but  the  general  tilt  of  the  ground  compels  all  the  other 
rivers  to  pass  through  the  son  them  scarp  of  Tibet,  in  making  their  way 
to  the  ocean.  The  longitudinal  chains  of  this  scarp  present  formidable 
harriers  to  the  downward  progress  of  the  waters,  but  the  meridional 
chains  facilitate  it  by  the  outlets  which  the  intervening  valleys  present 
for  their  egress*  Thus^  there  is  a  stretch  of  no  less  than  1 400  miles 
between  the  two  great  fissures  in  the  Himalayas  through  which  the 
Indus  and  the  Yaro-tsanpo  enter  India,  on  the  extreme  west  and  east ; 
whereas  in  a  stretch  of  only  150  miles  three  groat  rivers  make  their 
exit  between  the  meridional  chains  ;  these  are  the  Di-chu  as  it  is  called 
by  Tibetans,  or  Kin-sha-kiang  as  called  hy  the  Chinese,  which  becomes 
the  Yang-tse-kiang  or  Bine  river  of  China ;  the  Chiamdo-chu  or  Lan- 
tsan-kiang,  which  becomes  the  Mekong  river  of  Cambodia;  and  the 
Giama-Nu-cbn,  which  the  Chinese  call  the  Lu-kiang,  or  Ln-tse-kiang 
indifferently*  The  latter  river  is  generally  held  to  be  the  source  of  the 
Sal  win,  but  I  purpose  to  show  you  that  it  is  more  probably  that  of  the 
Ira  wad  i. 

But  first  I  must  just  remind  yon  of  the  long  controversy  between 
English  and  French  geographers  regarding  the  lower  course  of  the 
Yaro-tsanpo,  the  former  maintaining  from  information  derived  from  the 
natives  that  it  enters  the  Brahmaputra,  and  is  the  principal  sonrco  of 
that  river,  the  latter  carrying  it  into  the  Irawadi,  on  the  authority  of 
Chinese  geographers.  It  is  now  knovrn  with  certainty  to  enter  the 
Brahmaputra,*  but  to  this  day  the  lower  hundred  mi  leg  of  its  course  out 
of  the  Tibetan  plateau  has  not  been  explored  by  any  European,  or  any 
Asiatic  of  sufficient  intelligence  to  give  a  rational  account  of  it ;  and  to 
this  day,  an  even  greater  length  of  the  lower  course  of  the  IjU  river 
remains  aimilarly  unexplored.  These  lengths  lie,  the  first  within,  the 
second  on  the  border  of  the  Eastern  Himalayan  region,  and  I  wish 
particularly  to  draw  your  attention  to  the  circumstjinco  that  this  region 
ia  materially  lower  than  any  other  portion  of  the  Himalayas,  and  yet 
that  it  presents  the  greatest  difficulties  and  barriers  in  the  way  of 
geographical  research.  It  commonoes  alx>nt  the  93rd  meridian  which 
separates  it  from  the  great  Himalayan  chain  of  lofty  peaks  covered  with 
perpetual  snow,  which  forms  so  prominent  an  object  from  the  plains  of 
*  Se3  Note  7  on  the  enatum  hmlu  of  the  Yaro-tjaapo, 


THE  LIT  RlVEir;  OF  TIBET; 


Upper  lodia,  tLrougliout  their  entire  extent  from  east  to  west ;  tli©  peaks 
are  moatly  20,000  feot  above  the  sea-level,  sereral  exceed  25,000,  and 
the  liigliotit  yet  measured— MoDt  Everest— is  29,000,  They  are  dis- 
tributed pretty  evenly  over  the  entire  extent  of  tbe  range;  thus  Nauga 
Parbat,  which  towers  over  tbe  Indus  on  tho  extreme  ivest,  is  26,600  feet 
high,  and  on  the  exti'eme  east,  in  Bhutan^  there  are  peaks  rising  above 
26^000  feet ;  but  for  a  considerable  distance  to  the  east  of  tbe  93rd  meri> 
dian  there  is  nothing  above  16,700  feet.  Yet  the  higher  region  is  better 
populated,  and  the  inhabitants  have  more  or  less  constant  intercourse,  iu 
times  of  peace,  with  each  other,  aiid  with  the  people  of  India  and  Tibet 
on  either  side ;  the  lines  of  communication  between  neighbouring  valleys 
and  villages  are  well  eatablitthed,  though  occaeionallj^  they  are  very 
circuitouts,  in  order  to  avoid  the  physical  difficulties  presented  bj  the 
stupendous  scarps  of  some  of  the  hill  ranges  and  the  deep-fissured 
ehannels  of  some  of  tho  rivers ;  but  by  some  route  or  other  iVaiatics 
may  travel  through  the  entire  length  and  breadth  of  the  couotrj,  ex- 
cepting when  tlie  paases  are  closed  by  snow  ;  and  Earopeans  may  do  so 
too,  excepting  when  hindered  for  political  reasons,  as  iu  Kepal  and 
Tibet. 

In  the  lower  region  the  highest  peaks  do  not  attain  the  altitude  of  the 
principal  passes  in  the  gorges  between  the  western  peaks,  and  the  general 
configuration  of  the  ground  ia  less  rugged  and  precipitous;  but  the  hill- 
sides and  the  plateaus  are  overgrown  with  a  dense  tropical  vegetation 
which  presents  a  very  formidable  barrier  to  iutercommunicatioD,  even 
between  neighbouring  localities.  The  decayed  vegetation  of  ages 
clothes  the  ground  with  a  coating  of  rich  soil,  from  which  the  inhabi- 
tants readily  raise  a  sufficiency  of  food  to  supplement  the  fruits  and 
roots  which  nature  provides  bountifully  for  their  own  requiremeuta  and 
their  cattle  and  goats  and  pigs*  Thus  in  every  locality  the  people  have 
a  tendency  to  become  isolated  from  their  neighbours ;  iutercourso 
between  members  of  the  same  tribe  is  restricted  by  the  difficulties  of 
transit  through  dense  forest  and  jungle;  di  fife  rent  tribes,  and  even 
different  clans  of  the  same  tribe,  regard  each  other  with  more  or  less 
suspicion  and  alarm,  and  thus  in  their  isolation  they  have  become 
savage  and  barbarous,  and  they  are  much  dreaded  by  their  more  civi- 
liaed  neighbours  in  Assam  and  Tibet.  Frequent  attempts  have  been 
made  by  officers  of  tbe  Survey  of  India  to  obtain  natives  of  the  border- 
land to  train  as  surveyors  and  employ  in  making  geographical  explora- 
tions of  tills  region,  as  baa  been  done  so  successfully  in  other  parts  of 
the  Himalayas  and  in  Tibet;  but  as  yet  no  one  has  been  found  who 
could  be  trusted  to  make  hia  way  any  distance  beyond  the  border. 
Whatever  exploration  has  been  accomplished  in  this  region  has  been 
mainly  achieved  by  Europeans,  and  it  is  to  Europeans  that  we  must 
look  for  the  elucidation  of  the  geographical  problems  which  still  await 
solution.     See  Note  !• 


: 


IS  IT  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  IHAWADI  OH  THE  SALWIN  ? 


355 


Ie  1820  Wilcox  attGuipted  to  reach  tlio  sources  of  tlie  Loliit  or 
Eaatern  Bialiinaputi*a>  the  basiu  of  which  lies  between  the  basins  of  the 
Lu  and  the  Yaro-tsanpo,  He  ascended  the  Lohit  from  the  station  of 
Sadiya»  in  Upper  Assam,  to  the  point  where  it  enters  the  plain?,  near 
the  Brahmakund,  or  pool  of  Brahma,  so  famous  in  Indian  mythology ; 
there  he  entered  the  country  of  the  barbarous  Miishmi  tribes,  and  made 
his  way  up  the  narrow  and  circuitous  channel  through  which  the  riveV 
flows  down  from  ita  sources,  across  the  great  spur  from  the  Himalayas 
which  forms  the  eastern  boundary  of  Assam ;  ho  passed  irito  an  open 
%'alley  beyond,  and  had  reached  the  Tillage  of  Jingsba,  a  Mishmi 
chieftain,  midway  between  the  Brahmaknnd  and  the  Zayul  plateau  of 
Cis-Himalaj-an  Tibet,  when  he  was  prevented  from  proceeding  any 
further.  But  he  obtained  some  valuable  geographical  information  ;  the 
Mishmis  showed  him  the  general  direction  of  the  river  and  the  moun- 
tains in  which  its  sources  are  situated,  and  they  gave  him  the  names  and 
dietancea  of  the  principal  ^'illages  on  ita  banks. 

In  1836  Dr.  GriflBth,  the  celebrated  traveller  and  naturalist,  ascended 
the  Lohit  frum  the  Brahmakund,  and  had  got  about  half  as  far  as  Wilcox, 
when  the  Miahmis,  who  bad  accompanied  him  60  far,  declined  to  take 
him  a  foot  farther,  or  even  into  the  lands  of  the  neighbouring  Mishmi 
clans,  so  he  had  to  return  to  Assam  without  having  reached  Tibet. 

In  1852  the  Abbe  Krick,  a  priest  of  the  French  Eoman  Catholic 
Foreign  Mission,  iucceeded  in  making  his  way  up  tho  river  through  the 
Hishmi  country,  and  beyond,  to  the  village  of  Sama,  which  is  situated  a 
few  miles  below  Rima,  the  chief  town  in  the  Tibetan  district  of  ZayuL 
After  three  weeks*  residence  the  authorities  insisted  on  his  return  to 
Assam,  His  journey  to  and  fro  occupied  about  three  months,  and  he 
wrote  a  very  interesting  and  animated  account  of  it,  which  was 
published  soon  afterwards  in  France,*  but  which  seems  to  have  been  as 
jet  quite  overlooked  by  geographers,  though  it  contains  some  important 
geographical  information,  as  I  will  presently  indicate.  In  1854  he 
again  travelled  through  the  Mishmi  countiy,  tliiu  time  accom^mnied  by 
a  fellow-priest,  M.  Boury  ;  they  reached  ihe  Tibetan  village  of  Sama, 
and  there  they  were  both  treacherously  murdered.  This  second  journey 
IB  well  known  to  geograj^hera,  and  Colonel  Yule,  in  his  geographical 
introduction  to  the  last  edition  of  Captain  GilKs  *  Biver  of  Golden  Sand, 
concludes  his  analysis  of  the  evidence  (*ree  Note  2)  whether  the  rivers 
of  this  region  flow  into  the  Brahmaputra  or  the  Irawadi,  in  the  following 
eloquent  words : — 

"Thus,  siQgular  to  my,  from  the  blood  of  thoise  two  missionary  priests,  spilt  on 
the  baaka  of  the  Lohita  (the '  Blood-red "),  ifi  moulded  the  one  firm  link  that  wc  as  yet 
possess,  biDding  together  the  ludiaa  and  the  Chinese  geography  of  those  obscure 


•  *llelatkm  d\m  Voyage  au  Tliibpt  en  1852,  par  M.  L'AhiK;  KritL 
d©  piete  nt  tfedutrfttion  d'Auguste  Vatoo/    Pari»»  1^54. 


A  ta  tibrairlo 


356  THE  LU  RIVER  OF  TIBET  r  ^^^ 

I  only  heard  of  the  published  narmtiye  of  M.  Krlck's  first  journey 
quite  recently  I  from  the  Abbe  Desgodius,  in  reply  to  my  inquiries 
whether  any  geographical  information  was  forthcoming  from  the  extant 
accounts  of  the  second  jonrney  which  terminated  so  Badly.  And  I  will 
now  give  you  a  brief  epitome  of  it,  as  the  information  it  contains  has  an 
important  bearing  on  my  subject  this  evening. 

M*  Krick  prepared  himself  for  the  journey  to  Tibet  by  acquiring  a 
sufficient  knowledge  of  the  Mishmi  language  to  enable  him  to  converse 
freely  with  the  Mishmis,  without  the  aid  of  an  interpreter.  The  English 
officials  in  Upper  Assam  did  all  in  their  power  to  help  him,  gave  him 
presents  to  conciliate  the  Mishmis^  and  on  the  failure  of  his  efforts  to 
indnce  any  Assamese  to  take  service  with  him,  as  carriers  of  his  goods 
and  supplies  of  food  for  the  journey,  they  induced  a  Kampti  chieftain, 
Chowsam  Gohaiu,  who  had  previously  been  employed  in  endeavouring 
to  open  up  communications  with  Tibet,  to  accompany  him  and  furnish 
him  with  Mishmi  porters.  They  started  from  Sadiya  in  December 
1851,  **a  party/'  he  says,  **of  seventeen  travellers  in  all,  not  including 
the  dog  Lorrain  who  ran  on  in  front,*'  They  followed  the  course  of  the 
Lohit  Brahmaputra,  in  some  parts  traversing  the  bed  of  the  river,  and 
having  to  spring  like  acrobats  across  great  boulders,  in  other  parts 
making  their  way  along  either  bank,  scrambling  over  precipices  or 
catting  paths  for  themselves  through  dense  forest  and  jungle.  Thej^ 
had  frequently  to  cross  the  river  by  suspension  bridges  of  a  single  cane, 
along  which  the  traveller  has  to  pass,  his  body  i-esting  in  a  ci-adle 
attached  by  a  ring  to  the  cane,  do^vn  which  ho  shoots  rapidly  to  the 
lowest  point,  midway,  and  then  hoists  himself,  laboriously  olimbing  with 
both  hands  and  feet,  up  the  rise  to  the  opposite  bank  ;  happily,  his  face 
all  the  while  looks  up  to  the  sky,  and  away  from  the  roaring  torrent 
below.  M.  Krick  says  that  the  first  time  be  ventured  on  this  means  of 
transit,  and  placed  himself  in  the  cradle,  he  felt  like  a  man  putting  a 
cord  round  his  own  neck;  but  after  arriving  safe  and  sound  on  the 
opposite  shore,  without  ever  feeling  the  possibility  of  a  fall,  he  re- 
preached  himself  for  his  mistrust  of  Mishmi  bridges,  and  from  that  time 
voted  that  they  should  be  recommended  to  the  Society  of  Progress. 

The  presents  with  which  he  had  been  liberally  furnished  by  the 
English  officials,  seem  to  have  been  rather  an  anxiety  to  him  than  other- 
wise ;  for  they  excited  the  cupidity  of  the  chiefs  of  the  clans  through 
which  he  had  to  pass,  each  of  whom  endeavoured  to  get  as  much  as  he 
could  for  himself.  But  wherever  he  went  his  knowledge  of  the  language 
stood  him  in  good  stead,  and  he  met  with  a  friendly  reception  ;  at  ever^* 
stage,  however,  he  was  strongly  advised  not  to  proceed  any  further,  each 
clan  fearing  to  compromise  itjaelf  with  its  neighbours  and  with  the 
Tibetans ;  he  was  nowhere  actually  stopped,  but  everywhere  endeavours 
were  made  to  terrify  him  into  returning  by  tales  of  the  dangers 
which    assuredly     awaited     him.     On    reaching    Jingsha's     village, 


IS  IT  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  IBAWADl  OR  THE  SALWD^? 


357 


where  Wilcox  had  boen  turned  back,  ho  was  taken  to  the  edge  of 
a  loftj  ijrecipicG  overhanging  the  Brahmaputra,  and  Bhown  the 
place  where  two  Asiatics,  who  were  endeavourmg  like  him  to  make  their 
way  into  Tibcjt,  had  been  murdered,  some  yeara  previously,  and  their 
corpses  thrown  into  the  river.  **  See,"  said  his  informants,  who  appear 
to  have  been  really  anxious  for  hia  welfare,  '*  there  are  the  stains  of  their 
blood ;  if  you  go  on  you  will  bo  murdered  and  your  body  thrown  into 
the  river."  But  ho  was  resolved  to  proceed  at  all  risks,  and  when  thoy 
found  this  they  guided  him  onwards  and  supplied  porters  to  carry  his 
stock  of  goods,  which,  however,  was  being  rapidly  diminished  by  petty 
thefts  and  presents  to  the  chiefs.  He  had  a  gun,  and  always  kept  it  by 
him,  and  as  the  Mishmis  had  very  few  firearms,  the  possession  of  this 
weapon  made  them  somewhat  afraid  of  him,  and  he  appears  to  have 
prudently  abstained  from  over  firing  it,  and  thus  betraying  his  small 
.skill  m  its  use.  One  night,  when  close  to  Tibet,  he  was  aroused  by  an 
Assamese  whose  release  he  had  obtained  from  slavery  to  the  Mishmis, 
who  informed  him  that  the  people  were  plotting  his  murder,  and  he 
should  keep  awake  with  his  gun  in.  readiness ;  too  tired  to  do  this,  he 
dropped  tho  gun  and  fell  asleep,  commending  his  soul  to  God  who,  he 
says,  knew  the  motives  of  his  journey,  and  could  if  He  pleased  protect 
him  ;  next  morning  he  awoke  with  some  surprise  at  finding  himself  still 
alive.  He  met  with  no  further  opposition,  and  his  next  march  brought 
him  into  an  open  valley,  '*  seemingly  formed  by  the  alluvium  of  the 
Brahmaputra ;  "  and  in  the  distance  ho  saw  tho  villages  of  Tibet.  Great 
was  his  joy  at  a  sight  which  more  than  made  amends  for  hie  past  perils  and 
privations.  He  entered  Tibet  repeating  the  Nunc  dimiitu,  happy  if  need 
he  to  die  there>  hut  hoping  to  he  permitted  to  settle  among  the  people  and 
learn  their  language  and  make  converts  to  Christianity,  They  received 
him  kindly,  their  gentle  and  courteous  manners  forming  a  striking  con- 
trast with  the  savage  rudeness  and  untutored  ways  of  the  Mishmis. 
Equally  striking  was  the  transition  from  the  tangled  thickets  and 
rugged  paths  of  the  wilderness  of  hills  through  which  he  had  passed,  to 
the  open  valleys,  the  smiling  fields,  the  softly  undulating  pasture  lands, 
and  the  happy  homesteads  of  the  Tibetans ;  "  inhabitants,  houses,  culti- 
vation, scenery,  everything,"  he  says,  **  wore  a  gracious  aspect ;  the 
change  was  as  from  night  to  day." 

He  took  up  his  quarters  in  a  Tibetan  family,  and  at  once  set  to  work 
to  learn  the  language  from  his  hostess,  who  was  very  good  to  him.  He 
seems  to  have  been  treated  with  all  the  more  consideration  hecause  he 
avowed  himself  a  priest  of  the  Christian  religion  ;  lamas  from  the  sur- 
rounding monasteries  came  to  visit  him,  and  would  prostrate  themselves 
before  his  cross,  and  raise  his  breviary  respectfully  to  their  foreheads. 
But  all  too  soon  the  local  authorities  insisted  on  his  leaving  the  country ; 
they  said  that  an  insurrection  wa.B  imminent,  for  which  reason  his 
presence  was  not  desirable  at  the  moment,  but  he  might  return  after- 


358  THE  W  RIVER  OF  TIBET  r 

wards  when  matters  had  quieted  down*  Very  reluctantly  tbertjfore  lie 
commenced  to  retrace  his  footstepg.  His  stock  of  presentu  was  exhausted, 
he  was  almost  reduced  to  beggary,  and  his  prestige  was  much  diminished. 
On  reaching  Jingsha's  village  he  found  the  chief  suffering  greatly  from 
a  bad  wound  in  one  of  hia  legs ;  ho  was  told  to  cure  the  leg  in  three  daj^s 
or  ho  would  bo  killed  if  he  failed  to  do  so ;  happily,  he  had  gone  through 
a  course  of  medical  study  m  France  under  a  Doctor  Lorraiu*  afttjr 
whom  the  dog,  who  was  his  sole  companion,  was  named ;  he  had 
still  Bomo  medicine,  and  he  succeeded  so  well  in  his  treatiuent  of  the 
wound  that  Jingsha  Ijecame  very  grateful  and  friendly,  and  rendered 
him  substantial  aBsistanco  for  the  remainder  of  his  journey  back  to 
Assam. 

After  waiting  two  years  for  the  suppression  of  the  insnr  reel  ion  in 
Tibet,  M,  Krick  returned  to  Sama  accompanied,  as  already  stilted,  by 
yL  Boury,  There  they  were  murdered  by  a  Mishmi  chief  named  Kaisha, 
who  was  afterwards  captured  in  his  own  village  by  a  detachment  of  the 
42nd  N J.,  under  Lieut.  Eden,  sent  from  Assam,  was  tried,  convicted, 
and  hanged.  But  the  murder  took  place  in  a  Tibetan  village,  and  it 
was  instigated  by  a  Tibetan  official ;  thia  man  was  eventually  arrested 
by  the  Chinese  JVfandarins  at  Kiangka,  near  Batang,  and  so  severely 
beaten  that  he  died  shortly  afterwards.  Thus  the  murder  of  the 
missionaries  was  avenged  both  by  tlio  Chinese  and  tho  British  ofliciala, 
apjmrently  without  any  preconcerted  arrangement  on  the  part  of  the 
two  Governments, 

That  the  Ahb(5  Krick  should  have  braved  the  perils  and  privations  of 
a  second  jonrnoy  through  the  Mishmi  conntr}'  to  Tibet,  in  order  to  preach 
the  gospel  of  Jesua  Christ,  and  teach  the  philosophy  of  the  Cross,  in 
lands  where  Buddhism  reigns  supreme,  is  an  instanoe  of  courage  and 
heroism  and  self-devotion  of  a  very  high  order  of  merit.  In  this  country 
we  have  more  opportunity  of  becoming  acquainted  with  tho  labours  of 
the  notable  mifisiocariea  of  the  Protestant  Churches,  as  Livingstone, 
Williams,  and  Paterson,  and  Hannington,  the  most  recent  martyr  of  the 
Church  of  England,  than  we  have  of  tho-se  of  other  branches  of  the 
Christian  Church.  I  have  therefore  deemed  it  an  act  of  simple  justice, 
and  one  which  will  ceiHiainly  enlist  the  sympathy  of  my  audience,  to 
endeavour  to  rescue  from  oblivion  the  noble  enterprise  of  this  earnest 
and  devoted  Frenchman  and  Ilonian  Catholic  priest ;  it  illustrates  the 
happy  fact  that  tho  heroes  of  Christianity  are  not  confined  to  auy  one 
nation,  to  any  one  branch  of  the  Church,  or  to  any  particular  school  of 
Christian  thought  and  discipline  j  but  that  tho  noble  army  of  martyrs 
iinds  worthy  recruits  wherever  the  banners  of  the  Cross  are  unfurled. 

The  account  of  M.  Krick's  first  journey  to  Tibet  is  a  long  buried 
chapter  of  geography  which  it  has  been  a  pleasure  to  mo  to  exhume  and 
bring  to  light ;  had  it  been  more  widely  known,  geographers  would 
have  been  spared  a  great  deal  of  bhmdering  and  false  geography,  as  I 


K  IT  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  IRAWADJ  OR  THE  SAL  WIN  ? 


359 


mil  presently  eliow.      But  first  I  miast  resume  my  narrative  of  tlie 
exploratioo  of  these  regions. 

The  next  explorer  was  Pandit  Krishna  (A^k)  of  the  Indian 
Survey,  of  whose  *  Four  years*  journeyings  through  Great  Tibet '  I 
gave  an  account  to  this  Society  two  years  ago.  (See  *  Proceedings  *  for 
February  1885,)  lie  was  returning  to  India  from  Darehendo,  the 
;  easternmost  town  of  Tibet  on  the  frontier  of  China,  and  had  made  his 
way  acro6S  the  system  of  meridional  monntains  and  valleys  which  I 
have  already  alluded  to,  and  entered  the  Zaynl  basin  from  the  east,  and 
reached  the  village  of  Sam  a,  with  the  intention  of  proceeding  to  Assam 
by  the  direct  route  through  the  Mishmi  country^  when  he  was  told  that 
if  he  did  eo  he  would  certainly  be  either  murdered  or  enslaved.  Ho 
there  fore  returned  to  India  by  a  very  circuitous  route  which  took  him 
almost  up  to  Lhasa.  In  this  case  the  Mishmi  barrier  proved  most 
beneficial  to  the  science  of  geography ;  for  the  long  route  taken  by  the 
Pandit  to  avoid  it  lay,  for  upwards  of  600  miles,  in  entirely  new  ground, 
the  exploration  of  which  has  thrown  much  light  on  a  very  obscure  but 
important  region,  and  has  enabled  the  limits  of  the  eastern  basin  of  the 
Yaro-tsanpo  to  be  defined  with  considerable  precision.  Had  he  taken 
the  direct  route  to  Assam,  he  would  merely  have  confirmed  what 
geographers  had  already  been  told  by  Wilcox,  and  might  have  learnt 
from  the  Abbe  Krick,  that  the  rivers  of  the  Zayul  district  are  the  sources 
of  the  Lohifc  Brahmaputra. 

Now  this  fuct  in  fatal  to  the  theory  of  tho  identity  of  the  Yaro-tsanpo 
with  the  Irawadi.  Thus  as  the  region  between  Sama  and  Brahmakund 
had  not  been  traversed  by  either  Wilcox  or  the  Pandit,  Mr.  Robert 
Gordon,  who  had  published  a  great  folio  volume  in  support  of  that  theor}% 
maintained  that  tho  region  is  much  broader  than  is  shown  in  either 
Wilcox*s  map  or  the  Pandit's,  that  it  is  crossed  by  the  Yaro-tsanpo  which 
here  receives  the  Zayul  river  and  then  passes  down  into  the  Irawadi, 
that  the  Lohit  is  too  inconsiderable  a  river  to  receive  the  Zayul  which 
Is  a  much  greater  river,  and  that  the  head-waters  of  the  Lohit  are 
situated  in  the  hills  bordering  Assam,  at  a  much  higher  level  than  the 
level  of  the  Zaynl  at  Sama.  He  put  forward  his  reasons  for  these 
remarkable  assumptions  so  dexterously,  in  a  paper  which  he  read  before 
tho  Society  (sec  '  Proceedings  '  for  May  1885),  that  Lord  Aberdaro,  who 
was  presiding  on  the  occasion,  appCiars  to  have  been  half  persuaded  by 
them,  and  concluded  the  discussion  with  the  remark  that, 


*'  Mr.  Gordon  had  very  fairly  thrown  out  a  challenge,  that  if  the  npper  waters  of 
the  Brahmaputra  were  at  a  higher  elevation  that  tho  Zayul  river,  into  which  he 
ftisuines  the  Sanpo  to  flow,  that  would  settle  the  question.  Of  course  rivers  did  not 
run  np-hill,  and  if  the  Saopo  near  Kima  was  lower  than  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Brahmaputra  there  conld  be  no  more  dispute  about  the  point.  He  hoped  that  some 
gifted  traveller  would  before  long  be  animated  by  a  desire  to  solve  the  problem  by 
actual  travel  down  the  Sanpo/' 


^f^  THE  l.ir  RIVER  OF  TIBET: 

The  challenge  was  immodiately  taken  up  by  a  British  police  officer 
in  Assam,  Mr.  Needham,  who  proceeded,  with  the  approval  of  the  local 
Government,  not  **  down  the  Sanpo,"  whieh  no  one  has  vet  attempted, 
but  up  the  Lohit  Brahmapntra,  accompanied  by  Capt,  E.  H.  Molesworth. 
Ascendiiig  thL*  river,  they  pa&eed  through  the  Mishmi  country,  and 
reached  a  point  within  a  mile  of  Eima,  the  chief  town  of  the  Zayul 
district,  a  few  miles  beyond  Sama,  and  then  retnmed  to  Assam,  again 
travelling  along  the  banks  of  the  Lohit  Brahmapntra.  They  have 
fnlly  confirmed  the  broad  facta  of  Wilcox's  geography  and  the  Pandit'a 
{see  Note  3).  Aod  they  came  across  a  still  stantling  memorial  of 
MM*  Krick  and  Bonry,  in  two  upright  slabs,  on  a  very  large  stone 
beside  a  stream  marking  the  boundary  between  Mishmi  and  Tibetan 
country,  which  they  had  erected  to  commemorate  their  passage  across 
the  Jordan  that  lay  between  their  wilderness  and  their  promised  land. 

Krick  gives  a  most  vivid  monograph  of  the  Lohit  Brahmaputra.  He 
describes  the  river  as  descending  into  the  Zayul  basin  from  mountains 
to  the  north-east,  through  a  channel  which  resembles  a  narrow  cleft 
between  two  towering  pinnacles ;  be  testifies  to  its  great  water-power, 
the  irresistible  impetuosity  of  its  course,  the  wild  boanty  of  its  banks,  and 
the  thundering  roar  with  w^hich  it  startles  the  surrounding  solitudes; 
he  describee  its  bed  in  the  Mishmi  hills  as  all  too  narrow  to  contain  the 
volume  of  water ;  thus  it  does  not  flow,  but  bounds  furiously ;  its  surface 
ia  everywhere  a  sheet  of  white  foam,  save  in  rare  intervals  of  oom- 
parative  calm,  where  it  seems  to  slumber  in  deep  pools  under  the 
shadow  of  huge  trees,  whoso  verdure  is  mirrored  in  its  surface.  He 
flays  its  volume  is  so  groat  that  it  is  not  sensibly  augmented  even  by 
affluents  of  considerable  size.  This  is  a  very  important  observation,  as 
it  indicates  that  the  river  has  piobably  another  and  more  distant  source 
than  either  of  the  two  mentioned  by  Wilcox  and  traversed  by  the 
Pandit,  which  rise  in  the  south  face  of  the  Himalavas,  and  that  its 
principal  source  probably  originates  in  the  Tibetan  plateau  to  the  north* 
whence  it  descends  into  the  Zayul  basin,  between  the  two  towering 
pinnacles  which  were  specially  pointed  out  to  him. 

And  now  let  me  take  you  away  from  this  region  into  Upper  Bnima. ' 
A  range  of  hills  which  juts  southwards  from  the  eastern  extremity  of 
the  Himalayas  separates  the  Zayul  basin  from  that  of  the  Lu  river  to 
the  east,  and  then,  bending  westwards  in  horseshoe  fashion,  separates 
it  from  that  of  the  Irawadi,  and  then  again  trending  southwards, 
separates  Assam  and  Eastern  Bengal  from  Burma.  This  range  is 
crossed  by  two  routes  from  Upper  Assam  to  the  Irawadi,  which  were 
explored,  one  by  Wilcox  sixty  years  ago,  ihe  other  recently  by  Colonel 
Woodthorpe  and  Major  Macgregor.  Of  the  latter  an  interesting  account 
was  given  to  this  Society  last  December  by  Major  Macgregor.  It  lies  a 
little  to  the  south  of  Wilcox's  route,  but  sufficiently  near  to  enable 
Woodthorpe  to  test  the  accuracy  of  Wilcox's  work  in  the  region  of  the 


IS  IT  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  IRAWADI  OR  THE  SAtWiN? 


361 


Upper  Irawadi,  and  we  have  tlie  gratification  of  knowing  that  Wiloox 
has  been  as  fully  corroborated  in  this  quarter  aa  he  has  heen  in  the 
region  of  the  Lohit  Brahmaputra  by  Pandit  Krishna,  by  the  Abbe  Krick, 
and  by  Mr.  Necdham.  Now  it  is  so  much  more  pleasant  to  be  able 
to  testify  to  the  goodness  of  a  man^s  work  than  to  speak  of  any  flaw  or 
blemish  in  it,  that  it  is  with  some  reluctance,  and  without  any  thought 
of  detracting  from  the  credit  which  is  ver}"  jnstly  Wilcox's  due,  that  I 
would  point  out  an  unfortunate  mistake  which  he  made»  not  in  his 
geography,  but  in  his  nomenclature.  He  reached  the  river  which  is 
called  Nam-kiu  by  some  natives  of  the  country,  and  Mali-kha  by 
others,  and  he  ciiUed  it  the  Irawadi.  It  is  doubtless  a  source  of  the 
Irawadi,  but  it  is  certainly  not  the  principal  souroe,  even  should  the 
river  he  proved  to  have  no  source  outside  Burma ;  for  the  Pandit's 
survey  shows  that  the  range  which  separates  the  Za^^l  hasin  from 
Upper  Burma^ — and  which  is  called  by  some  the  Nam-kiu,  by  others 
the  Kampti,  and  by  others  the  Khanung  range— trends  considerably 
to  the  north  of  the  sources  of  the  Mali-kha,  and  gives  birth  to 
other  rivers  of  greater  magnitude*  The  erroneous  employment  of 
the  definite  article  the,  in  place  of  the  indefinite  article  a  or  an,  is 
liable  to  cause  mischief  in  geography  as  in  all  other  departments 
of  knowledge,  and  its  employment  by  Wilcox  has  caused  many 
geographers  to  look  on  the  Mali-kha  as  the  principal  source  of  the 
Irawadi,  Dr.  Anderson,  in  a  paper  which  he  read  before  our  Society  in 
June  1870,  maintained  that  this  view  was  erroneous,  and  that  the  river 
was  probably  fed  by  waters  descending  from  the  Tibetan  plateau,  and 
entering  Burma  by  what  was  then  known  as  its  eastern  branch.  Here 
again  the  erroneous  use  of  the  definite  for  the  indefinite  article  has 
troubled  geographerSj  for  Wilcox  told  of  a  branch  of  the  river  which  ho 
calls  the  eastern  branch,  and  which  certainly  rises  in  the  Namkiu-Kampti 
range;  thus  it  has  been  alleged  in  opposition  to  Dr*  Anderson  that 
there  is  no  room  for  his  river  between  Wilcox's  eastern  Ij-awadi  and  the 
Lu,  and  therefore  that  the  Irawadi  can  have  no  other  sources  than  those 
indicated  by  Wilcox ;  and  there  is  considerable  force  in  this  objection  ; 
for  we  now  know  with  certainty,  from  the  Pandit's  surveys,  that  no 
Tibetan  river  west  of  the  Lu  can  possibly  enter  Burma,  because  it  would 
first  have  to  cross  the  Lohit  Brahmaputra  and  the  Namkiu-Kampti 
range*  If  then  any  Tibetan  waters  enter  the  Irawadi,  they  can  only  do 
BO  by  the  channel  of  the  Lu. 

Of  this  channel  the  portion  with  which  we  are  best  acquainted  is 
that  lying  due  east  of  the  Zayul  basin^  between  the  parallels  of  28'' 
and  2t>^ ;  it  has  been  frequently  traversed  by  the  Abb6  Desgodins  and 
his  brother  missionaries,  who  settled  themselves  at  a  place  called  Bonga, 
a  little  to  the  east  of  the  river,  on  the  lower  parallel,  for  upwards  of  a 
year,  when  they  were  driven  out  of  the  country  by  the  Tibetan  officials  ; 
it  has  also  been  crossed  and  geographically  fixed  on  the  upper  parallel 


THE  LU  Hm:R  OF  TIBET; 


by  Pandit  Krislina,  I  had  the  privilege  of  making  the  iicquaintance  of 
the  Abbe  DesgodinB  8ome  yearns  ago  when  we  were  both  residing  in 
Calcntta.  Pie  brought  me  a  map  of  Eastern  Tibet  which  ho  had  drawn 
to  illustmte  a  paper  he  was  about  to  read  to  the  Asiatic  Society  of 
Bengal/  and  in  which  he  runs  the  Lu  river  int>  the  Salmn,  boldly 
writing  the  name  Sal  win  along  its  upper  course  in  Tibet,  aa  if  there 
coTild  be  no  possible  doubt  on  the  eubject.  At  that  time  I  had  other 
things  than  Tibetan  rivers  to  think  of  and  attend  to,  and  it  did  not 
occur  to  me  to  question  the  accuracy  of  the  Abba's  nomenclature  any 
more  than  I  had  that  of  Wilcox,  But  the  enforced  leisure  of  retire- 
ment from  the  public  service  has  i>ermitted  me  to  turn  ray  thougbta  to 
the  subject ;  and  my  attention  has  been  specially  drawn  to  it  by  Herr 
Loczy,  the  geologist  attached  to  Count  Szeehenyi's  expedition  to  Western 
China  and  Tibet,  who  has  crossed  the  Salwin  a  little  below  the  2rith 
parallel,  on  the  road  from  Talifu  to  Bamo ;  ho  maintains  the  Salwin  to 
be  too  insignificant  to  have  its  sources  far  off  in  the  heart  of  Tibet, 
and  therefore  that  the  Lti  river  must  be  tbe  source  of  the  Irawadi. 

This  induced  me  to  Inquire  of  the  Abbe  Desgodins  whether  he  had 
any  positive  information  regarding  tho  couise  of  the  Ln  below  Bonga. 
He  replied  that  the  lowest  point  on  the  river  which  had  been  reached 
by  any  of  the  French  missionaries  was  the  village  of  Ohamoatong,  some 
BO  miles  below  Bonga,  about  latitude  27^  45',  which  had  been  visited 
by  Father  Biibernard;  that  beyond  this,  to  tho  so  nth,  lay  a  region 
occnpied  by  barbarous  Lii-tse  and  Ly*Bu  tribes  which  none  of  the  mis- 
sionaries had  entered ;  but  that  he  had  met  several  Chinamen,  natives 
of  the  town  of  Young-chang,  which  is  situated  at  no  great  distance 
(20  miles)  from  the  Salwin  river,  between  it  and  the  Lan-tsan  or 
Mekongj  in  lat,  25°,  where  tbe  Salwin  is  generally  known  as  the  Lxi ; 
that  these  Chinamen  were  in  the  habit  of  trading  with  the  Ly-SM  and 
Lu'tse  tribes  to  the  north,  and  had  made  their  way  np  to  Bonga,  and 
that  they  had  never  told  him  that  the  Ln  river  near  Young- chang  was 
not  the  same  river  as  the  Lu  near  Bonga.  How,  he  asks,  are  we  to 
account  for  two  rivers  so  near  each  other  having  the  aame  name? 
and  be  nrgea  that  though  there  are  many  instances  of  a  river  having 
different  names  in  different  parts  of  its  ooiirse,  he  knew  of  none  of  two 
distinct  rivers  so  near  each  other  having  the  same  name.  He  admits, 
however,  that  he  has  no  positive  information  on  the  qnestion  of  identity. 
Then  he  makes  an  interesting  suggestion ;  he  says  he  has  crossed  both 
the  Lu  and  the  Lan-tsang  rivers  repeatedly  between  the  parallels  of 
28"^  and  29**,  and  that  the  Lu  is  there  sensibly  the  larger  river ;  but  Gill 
and  Loczy  had  crossed  the  Salwin  and  the  Lan-tsan g  three  degrees 
lower  down   on  the  road  between  Talifu  and  Bamo;   if  then  it  can 

*  Thid  map  was  published  at  tbe  time  bj  tbe  Asiatic  Soolctj,  nnd  libs  been  roprodiioed 
in  *  Le  TMbct  d'iipres  la  corrcspondance  dee  MiBaionaireB,  par  C.  H.  Desgodlna,'  2iid  ed. 
Faiijs. 


IS  IT  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  IRAWADI  OR  THE  SALWIX?  363 

•be  proved  that  at  their  points  of  crossing  the  Salwin  is  the  smaller 
river  of  the  two,  he  thinks  there  would  be  a  great  probability  that 
the  Lu  turns  into  the  Irawadi  below  Bonga. 

The  name  obviously  explains  the  identity  which  geographers  have 
hitherto  assumed,  but  of  itself  it  is  an  insufficient  proof,  and  I  know  of 
no  other.  We  are  told  by  Pandit  Krishna  that  the  Lu  of  Bonga  is 
known  by  Tibetans  as  the  Giama-Nu,  or  simply  the  Nu  (which  the 
Chinese  have  turned  into  Lu)  for  a  considerable  distance  in  its  upper 
course  through  Tibet ;  thus  it  cannot  acquire  its  name  from  the  country 
of  the  Lu  tribe  which  lies  below  Bonga  in  the  southern  scarp  of  the 
Tibetan  plateau ;  but  a  river  rising  in  that  country  and  flowing  into  the 
Salwin  might  very  probably  do  so.  It  is  to  be  remembered  also  that 
the  characters  used  by  the  Chinese  in  writing,  however  well  adapted  for 
the  expression  of  ideas,  are  ill-adapted  for  the  phonetic  expression  of 
words,*  and  thus  identity  of  name  does  not  always  establish  identity 
of  the  things  named.  Moreover,  Chinese  geography  has  no  uniform 
system  of  terminology,  and  it  presents  at  least  three  instances  of  two 
rivers,  no  further  apart  than  these,  having  a  common  name,  the  Lo,  the 
Shu,  and  the  Whai, 

As  regards  the  relative  magnitudes  of  the  Mekong  and  Salwin 
rivers  on  the  line  of  the  road  from  Talifu  to  Bamo,  Gill  has  given  us 
nothing  on  the  subject ;  Baber  says  the  Salwin  is  "  beyond  question  the 
largest "  ;t  Sherard  Osborne  says  the  Mekong  is  "  decidedly  the  most 
important,"}  Colquhoun  is  silent,  but  in  his  book  *  Across  Chryse '  he 
gives  pictures  of  the  bridges  at  each  crossing  from  his  own  photographs, 
and  of  these  I  have  had  the  enlargements  made  which  are  suspended  on 
the  wall  behind  me  for  your  inspection.  You  will  notice  that  the 
Salwin  is  crossed  by  a  suspension  bridge  in  two  spans,  and  the  Mekong 
in  one  span ;  each  span  of  the  Salwin  is  nearly  equal  in  length  to  that 
of  the  Mekong,  and  thus  at  first  sight  the  Salwin  has  the  appearance  of 
being  decidedly  the  greater  river ;  but  Herr  Loczy  maintains  it  to  be 
much  the  shallower  river  of  the  two  and  to  have  a  much  SDlaller 
volume.     He  says : — 

"  The  Lau-tsan  [Mekong]  was  found  to  be  deeply  cut  into  the  rock  at  the  point 
where  it  was  crossed  by  the  bridge,  a  little  below  a  narrow  portal-Uke  opening 
between  steeply  inclined  limestone  banks  several  hundred  feet  in  height — Gill  says 
1300, 1  would  say  only  600-700 — through  which  the  river  emerges ;  its  surroundings 


•  For  example,  I  am  informed  by  the  Abb^  Desgodins  that  he  believes  the  name 
Lu,  or  Lu-tae,  of  the  little  tribe  to  the  south  of  Bonga  to  be  "  a  Chinese  corruption  of 
tho  native  name  *  A-Nong ' ;  as  the  Chinese  language  does  not  contain  this  syllable 
Xong,  and  has  no  characters  to  express  it,  they  must  have  said  Lu  instead,"  a  statement 
which  can  scarcely  be  considered  lucid  and  identificatory. 

t  In  his  "  Notes  on  Route  of  Mr.  Grosvenor's  Mission  through  Western  Yunnan," 
p.  178  of  *  Supplementary  Papers  R.G.S.,'  vol.  i.  part  1. 

X  See  p.  217  of  our  *  Proceedings,'  vol.  iv..  Session  1859-60. 

No.  VL— June  1887.]  2  d 


36i 


THE  LtJ  RIVER  OF  TIBET; 


were  very  simikr  to  those  of  the  Km-8lia*kiaiig  near  Eatang,  both  rivers  being 
deeply  eroded  and  well  developed,  with  deep  water,  smooth  surface,  and  coastant  fall, 
and  the  sourcea  of  botli  were  apjiarently  far  dbtaiifc.  The  bridge  was  a  suspension 
bridge  with  an  extreme  length  of  120  paces,  correspondiog  to  the  actual  breadth  of 
the  channel;  the  river,  though  only  at  low  water,  occupied  the  entire  breadth  of  the 
channel ;  the  high- water  mark  was  18  feet  above  tlie  actual  level. 

"  The  Lu-kiang  [Salwin]  flowed  in  an  open  valley  between  two  terraces  200  to  300 
feet  in  height^  the  nearest  hills  being  two  miles  distant  It  was  crossed  by  a  fine 
suspenision  bridge  about  200  paces  ia  length,  with  a  centre  pier  resting  on  a  great 
rock  which  rose  from  an  island  in  the  middle.  The  river  was  not  actually  more 
than  80  paces  broad,  and  was  flowing  \vholly  ia  the  eastern  channel ;  a  bed  of  dry 
fihiDgie  and  boulders  was  left  exposed  in  the  western  channel.  It  was  very  rapid 
and  with  a  broken  surface  indicating  shallowness.  The  actual  level  was  vcrj  little 
below  the  high-water  mark.  The  cotiTse  of  the  river  between  its  banks  was  winding 
and  irregular,  the  surface  uneven,  and  the  fall  uneven.  The  bottom  of  the  valley  is 
composed  of  tertiary  lake  deposits.  The  large  boulders,  and  the  velocity  and  general 
shallowne^  of  the  water,  indicated  that  the  souroe  of  the  river  was  probably  at  no 
very  great  distance/* 


This  opinion  of  a  profeBflioiial  geologist  is  obviouely  of  great  weight ; 
I  think  it  fatal  to  the  hypothesia  that  the  Ln  river  which  has  a  course 
of  upwards  of  700  miles  in  Tibet,  and  is  known  to  h©  a  confiiderahle 
river  above  BoDga,  can  ever  become  bo  r^fltricted  in  volume  as  ia  the 
Salwin  200  miles  lower  down,     (^See  Note  4,) 

I  will  DOt  discuBS  the  question  whether  the  magnitude  of  the  Irawadi 
ia  not  of  itself  sufficient  to  prove  that  the  river  must  receive  a  con- 
siderable body  of  water  from  Tibet  in  addition  to  what  it  receives  In 
Burmaj  as  has  been  so  strongly  and  repeatedly  urged  hy  Mr*  Kobert 
Gordon,  Excellent  authorities  hold  that  the  rainfall  in  Upper  Burma 
is  enormous  and  sufficient  to  account  for  the  entire  volume  of  the 
Irawadi;  and  this  view  was  put  forward  hy  Colonel  Yule  and  supported  by 
General  Strachey  quite  recently,  on  the  occasion  when  Major  Macgregor 
read  the  interesting  paper  to  which  I  have  already  alluded.  But  I 
submit  that  we  are  not  yet  in  possession  of  sufficient  information  regard- 
ing the  actual  rainfall  and  the  relations  between  the  amount  which 
sinks  into  the  ground  and  which  passes  into  the  river,  to  come  to 
any  positive  conclusions  on  this  point.  I  remember  that  Mr.  Gordon 
has  urged  that  the  Brahmaputra  needs  no  affluent  from  Tibet  because 
of  the  enormous  rainfall  in  its  Assam  basin ;  yet  we  now  know  with 
certainty  that  it  receives  the  Yaro-tsanpo  from  Tibet.  If  any  weight 
whatever  is  to  be  attached  to  his  laborious  investigations  of  the  volume 
of  the  Irawadi,  as  showing  the  necessity  for  the  river  to  have  a 
Tibetan  origin,  that  weight  must  now  be  transferred  from  the  Yaro- 
tsanpo  to  the  Lu. 

There  is  a  remarkable  consensus  of  opinion  among  both  Chinese  and 
Tibetans  that  one  or  more  rivers  rising  in  Tibet  flow  into  the  Irawadi* 
Their  notions  regarding  the  hydrography  of  Tibet  to  the  north  of  Burma 


IS  IT  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  IRAWADI  OR  THE  SALWIN?  365 

are  curiously  confused,  but  I  think  this  is  probably  due  to  the  circum- 
stance that  the  principal  lines  of  communication  in  this  region  run  east 
and  west,  that  being  the  general  direction  of  the  roads  between  Pekin  and 
Lhasa,  while,  on  the  other  hand,  the  general  direction  of  all  the  rivers 
but  the  Lohit  Brahmaputra  is  from  north  to  south ;  thus,  as  a  rule,  the 
roads  strike  across  the  rivers,  and  do  not  pass  along  them,  and  con- 
sequently the  identification  of  the  upper  and  lower  courses  of  a  river  is 
probably  often  a  matter  of  mere  conjecture.  Thus  erroneous  information 
has  been  promulgated  which  has  had  its  influence,  even  on  the  latest 
European  geographers.  For  example,  Captain  Ereitner,  the  geographer 
attached  to  Count  Szechenyi's  expedition,  published  a  map,*  in  1881,  in 
which  he  shows  two  rivers  flowing  through  Tibet  to  the  west  of  the  Lu, 
one  of  which  he  calls  the  Djama-nu-dschu — obviously  the  same  name  as 
the  Pandit's  Giama-Nu-ohu — and  runs  into  Wilcox's  eastern  Irawadi, 
the  other  he  runs  into  Wilcox's  Irawadi  proper  on  the  west.  The  Abbe 
Desgodins,  in  the  map  which  I  have  already  mentioned,  shows  a  single 
river,  rising  not  so  far  north  as  either  of  Ereitner's,  which  passes  a  town 
called  Song-nga-kieu-dzong,  and  then  flows  through  the  eastern  Himalayas 
into  a  branch  of  the  Irawadi.  {See  Note  5.)  Mr.  Lepper  in  his  map  of 
the  Singpho-Kamti  country,  published  in  1882  by  the  Asiatic  Society 
of  Bengal,  shows  the  same  river,  and  runs  it  into  an  eastern  source  of 
the  Irawadi  which  is  called  the  Phongmai-kha  by  some  people,  the 
Shumai  by  others,  and  southwards  is  known  as  the  Meh-kha,  which 
joins  the  Mali-kha  above  Bamo ;  this  eastern  branch  M.  Lepper  calls  the 
Irawadi  proper.  (See  Note  6.)  But  these  three  maps  were  constructed 
before  the  Pandit's  explorations  were  published,  and  we  now  know  with 
certainty  that  no  Tibetan  river  west  of  the  Lu  can  possibly  enter  the 
Irawadi. 

Dr.  Griffith  and  Dr.  Anderson  have  both  concluded,  from  information 
which  they  personally  obtained  when  travelling  on  the  Irawadi  above 
Bamo,  that  the  eastern  source  of  the  river  is  the  most  considerable,  and 
that  it  rises  in  the  northern  plateau  above  Burma ;  Wilcox  in  one  of  his 
maps  actually  shows  it  as  possibly  doing  so ;  and  the  gallant  Frenchman, 
Lieut.  Gamier,  whoso  promising  career  was  so  sadly  extinguished  in 
Tonquin,  where  he  fell  fighting  singly  against  fearful  odds,  arrived  at 
the  same  conclusion,  from  information  obtained  in  the  course  of  his 
travels  in  Western  Yunnan  and  the  Shan  States. 

I  have  now  placed  before  you  all  the  information  I  have  collected 
on  this  interesting  question.  Of  course,  the  chief  argument  in  favour  of 
the  identity  of  the  Lu  above  Bonga  with  the  Salwin-Lu  is  the  identity 
of  name,  and  this  is  a  strong  argument,  but  it  is  not  sufficient  of  itself 
to  establish  the  oneness  of  the  two  rivers.  Hitherto  a  strong  argument 
has  been  the  Abbe  Desgodins's  belief  in  their  identity,  he. having  resided 

♦  *Karte  von  China  und  Ost-Tibot  mit  besonderer  BeruckBichtignng  der  Graf 
Szechenyi'schen  Route  in  den  Jahren  1878-80.* 

2  n  2 


366 


THE  LU  RIVER  OF  TIBET; 


8u  long  at  Bongn  ;  but  tkis  cannot  l>e  longer  urged  now  he  haa  frankly 
admitted  tliat  he  has  no  positive  information  regarding  the  course  of 
the  river  for  luuro  than  a  few  inilee  below  Bonga ;  I  rather  think  that 
he  has  still  a  warm  corner  in  his  heai*t  for  the  Salwin  theory,  but  bo  he 
once  had  for  the  belief  that  the  Yaro-tsanpo  is  the  source  of  the  Irawadi, 
which  he  has  long  since  abandoned. 

But  there  is  no  such  certainty  regarding  the  lower  course  of  the  Lu 
as  we  have  of  the  Yaro-taanpo;  for  though  a  length  of  fully  100  miles 
of  the  lower  course  of  the  latter  river  remains  uneurveyed,  the  limits  of 
ita  basin  are  known  with  precision,  but  a  greater  length  of  the  Lu  is 
unsurveyed,  and  nothing  is  known  of  the  limiting  basin. 

Happily,  the  exploration  of  this  region  would  probably  prove  much 
more  practicable  for  Europeans  than  that  of  the  Yaro-tsanpo;  for  the 
Ly-su  and  Lu-tse  tribes  who  in  habit  it,  though  they  are  said  to  be  fierce 
and  barbarous,  allow  foreigners  to  travel  throngh  their  country^  and 
this  the  triV>es  inhabiting  the  other  region  will  not  do.  Thus  an  impor- 
tant geograi>hical  problem  is  definitely  presented  for  invcfltigation,  the 
solution  of  which  should  be  w^ell  within  the  bounds  of  the  practicable 
for  some  of  our  countrymen  in  Upper  Burma,  Therefore,  as  our  Presi- 
dent, Lord  Aberdare,  hoped  in  the  matter  of  the  Yaro-tsanpo,  I  now 
hope  that  some  gifted  traveller  may  before  long  be  animated  by  a  desire 
to  solve  the  problem,  hy  actual  travel  up  the  Lu ;  and  that,  as  in  the 
case  of  the  Lohit  Brahmaputra,  the  scientific  world  had  not  to  wait  long 
between  the  propounding  of  the  problem  by  Lord  Aberdare,  and  its 
solution  by  Mr.  Xeedham,  so  now  they  may  not  have  to  wait  long  for 
the  unravelment  of  the  problem  of  the  Lu  which  I  have  endeavoured 
to  set  before  you  this  evening. 

NOTES. 

1,  The  Lamas^  Survey  of  Tibet, — Geographers  liave  long  heea  in  poasessioQ  of 
maps  of  Tibet  from  surveys  executed  early  in  the  eighteenth  century  by  Lamas, 
under  initnictions  from  the  Jesuit  Fathers  who  were  then  making  a  survey  of  China 
for  the  Emperor  Kangbi,  The  Lamas'  Survey  is  said  to  haTe  been  accomplished  in 
two  years,  and  as  the  area  covered  exceeds  lialf  a  million  sqnare  miles,  the  result 
can  only  be  rude  and  approximate,  and  must  have  been  derived  to  a  greater  extent 
from  hearsay  than  frc>m  actual  snrvey.  The  distancea  along  the  main  roads  were 
probably  measured  with  chains  or  ropes,  but  it  is  doubtful  whether  the  directions 
were  determined  hy  magnetic  hearings,  and  probable  that  they  were  merely  estimated 
by  the  eye,  aided  by  reference  to  the  positions  of  the  sun  and  stars,  for  the  loDgitudes 
are  much  more  sccurate  than  the  latitudes;  Ihns  there  is  much  less  error  in  longitude 
between  Darcheudo  (Ta-taien-lw)  and  Lhasa,  distant  650  miles,  and  between  Lhasa 
and  Leh,  in  Ladiik,  distant  825  miles,  than  there  is  in  latitude  between  Darchcndo 
and  Batang,  which  are  only  160  miles  apart  This  is  singularly  in  contrast  with 
geographical  mapping  in  general,  latitudes  being  as  a  rule  determined  much  more 
accurately  than  longitudes ;  and  it  is  probably  due  to  the  fact  that  the  general 
direction  of  the  principal  roads  is  east  and  west,  and  that  the  distances  were 
measured  instrumcntally  while  the  heBricgs  were  only  eetimatedH.    Ihe  Survey  is 


I 


IS  IT  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  IRAWADI  OR  THE  SALWIK? 


367 


supposed  to  liave  beon  based  oo  aatronomical  detflnnimitioni  of  position  ;  but  this  is 
scarcely  possible,  for  tbe  latitudes  of  such  important  places  as  Lbasa  and  Batang  are 
very  erroneous,  tbe  first  by  30,  tbe  second  by  70  miles. 

The  goograpbical  details — as  published  in  D*Anville'g  Atlas,  1737 — are  very 
meagre,  and  occasionally  very  misleading;  but  they  would  seem  to  be  generally 
reliable  along  the  principal  lines  of  communicatioDj  and  they  have  been  ct^rroborated 
at  several  points  by  the  work  of  the  trained  Pandits  of  the  Indian  Survey. 

2,  Mfmorandiun^  qu  the  eountrif^s  hdiveen  ?YM,  Yunnan^  ami  Btirmtif  hj 
Monseiyntfir  TTiomine  de9  MazureSy  Vicar  Apostolic  of  Tibd, — This  memorandum 
was  commnnicatod  in  a  letter  written  by  the  Vicar  Apostolic,  when  residing  at 
Bongii^  to  Bishop  Bigandut  of  RaDgoon,  wkicb  Is  published  in  tbe  *  Journal  of  the 
Asiatic  Society  of  Bengal,'  for  18G1.  The  writer  mentions  a  range  of  hills  30  miles 
to  the  west  of  the  Lu,  to  the  west  of  which  he  says  there  is  a  rather  i neons idtTable 
river  called  the  '*  KoutJj  Kiang^  or  Sch6t<5  Kiang,"  which  enters  tbe  province  of 
Yunnan  under  tbe  name  of "  Lountchang-kiang*"  and  joins  the  Irawadi  hakm  Bamo  ; 
beyond  it  there  are  several  ranges  of  mountains,  of  which  the  general  direction  is 
from  north  to  souths  and  then  a  considerable  river  "named  in  the  maps  Gakbo 
Dzanbo**  and  "  called  by  tbe  Chinese  Kanixxj  tsangbo  "  which  flows  into  the  Irawadi, 
and  in  the  district  of  which,  "  according  to  the  Tibetans,  is  the  village  of  ^jam^, 
where  our  two  priests  MM.  Krick  and  Boury  were  murdered.''  Thus  as  wc  know 
that  village  to  be  on  the  banks  of  the  Lohit  Brahmaputra,  we  might  infer  that  the 
Loliit  is  the  same  as  the  Kanpoo,  and  Colonel  Yule  has  drawn  this  inference."  But 
there  is  only  one  range  of  hills  between  the  Lu  and  the  Lohit  on  the  main  road  from 
the  east  into  tbe  valtey  of  the  Lobit ;  there  are  several  meridional  ranges  west  of  the 
Lu  opposite  Bonga,  but  they  are  all  spurs  from  tbe  Namkiu-Kampti  range  to  the 
south  of  the  Zayul  l>asin  ;  and  the  Kanpoo  is  certainly  a  river  of  the  eastern  basin  of 
the  Yaro-taanpo.  {See  Note  7.)  Kouts,  Sch^t^,  Loung-tchang  (Yonng-cbang  ?) 
appear  to  be  Cbioese  names  for  one  or  more  of  the  several  rivens  rising  in  the 
Namkiu-Kampti  range,  which  we  know  to  be  sources  of  the  Irawadi, 

The  worthy  Bishop*a  geography  lias  evidently  been  confused  by  errors  in  tbe 
map  of  Andriveau  Gonjon,  Paris  1841,  to  which  he  refers,  and  by  hia  Chinese  and 
Tibetan  informants  wrongly  combining  different  rivers,  as  has  been  humorously 
anggested  by  Colonel  Yule. 

8*  Needkatns  corrobomtkm  of  Wilc4}x  and  the  FandU, — Needham  was  not  in 
a  position  to  make  a  regular  route  survey,  but  he  estimated  his  marches  carefully, 
and  took  bearings  with  a  magnetic  compass  for  some  distance,  but  unfortunately  the 
iifeedk  of  this  instrument  fell  out  and  was  lost  as  he  was  entering  the  as  yet  un- 
flunreyed,  and  therefore  most  important,  portion  of  the  rout« ;  he  also  took  frequent 
readings  with  an  aneroid  barometer.!  He  makes  the  distance  from  Sadiya  to  Hima 
187  miles,  the  corresponding  measure  on  the  map  which  has  been  constructed  to 
illufltnite  the  Pandit's  travels,  being  120  miles.  But  the  greater  portion  of  the  route 
waa  surveyed  by  Wilcox ;  and  hia  po«itions  of  peaks  to  the  north  of  his  eastern- 
most point  agree  so  closely  with  those  of  prominent  peaks  fixed  half  a  century 
afterwards  by  the  Great  Trigonometrical  Survey,  that  his  rendering  of  what  he 
actually  saw,  and  did  not  merely  obtain  from  native  information,  may  he  accepted 


*  In  his  Geographical  In  trod  action  to  Giira  '  River  of  Golden  Sand/  condensed  by 
E.  C.  Bttlwr,  p.  [76], 

t  This  instrument  appears  to  have  had  a  largo  index  error,  giving  readings  about 
1000  feet  in  defect;  thus^  its  height  of  Tamemtikh,  40  miles  ahovo  Sadiya^  on  tbe 
Lohit^  is  only  450  feet,  which  is  the  height  of  Badiya;  and  its  Rima  is  about  3600  feet, 
the  Pundit's  value,  d&iluced  from  the  boiling  poiatj  being  4 €50  feet. 


S68 


THE  LU  RtVER  OF  TIBET : 


without  liesitatioD.  This  then  fixes  the  Lohtt  i;p  to  the  point  where  he  saw  the 
Gulma  and  La  Tki  rivers  enter  it,  near  each  other,  on  the  south  or  left  bank.  From 
thence  to  TEima  is  about  47  miles  by  Needham,  which  is  12  miles  more  than  hy  the 
map  of  the  Pacdifa  travels^  and  23  more  than  was  estimated  by  Wilcox. 

4.  The  purees  of  ilie  Lu  river, > — ^The  general  course  of  this  riTer  from  its  sources 
down  to  Bonga^  has  not  yet  beeu  snrveyed*  Pandit  Krishna  crossed  the  river  and 
fixed  it  on  the  line  of  the  road  between  Batang  and  Zayul,  in  the  28th  paralleh  He 
says  that  the  Tibetans  call  it  the  Giama-Nu-chu,  and  that  he  frequently  heard  of  it 
as  lying  to  the  east  of  hia  route  from  the  Zaynl  valley  northwards  to  Lhojong,  ia 
lat.  30°  45' ;  also  that  it  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  at  the  village  of  Shaug-ye^am  (left 
bank)  on  the  road  from  Lhojong  to  Chiamdo ;  and  that  when  [he  turned  westwards 
towards  Lhasa,  he  was  told  that  the  river  was  still  parallel  to  his  route. 

In  Vol.  XIV.  of  the  great  French  collection  of '  Memoirea  concemaat  rhistoire, 
les  sciences  •  •  .  des  Chinois,'  the  river  is  said  to  have  the  MongoHon  name  Hala-ou- 
sau  {lit.  Black  water)  and  the  Tibetan  name  Nga*eulh-y-tchou ;  to  rise  to  the  north 
of  Lhasa,  beyond  the  Terkiri  Lake  (the  Tengri  Kur)  in  the  Fouka  lake,  whence  it 
winds  through  the  Nga-eulh-ki-keu  and  the  Ila-la-tche  lakes,  and  then  flows  north- 
east to  So-ko-taouDg  (lit.  the  town  of  Sok);  then  turning  southwards,  it  passes  to 
the  east  of  Lo-loung  (Lho-iong)  and  enters  the  lands  of  Mi-la-loung,  whence  it  passes 
to  Nou-y  and  takes  the  name  of  N'ou-kiang, 

The  Lamas'  map  shows  the  river  as  rising  in  hUIs  near  the  Eara''  lake,  to  the 
north  of  Lhasa,  and  flowing  due  east  until  joined  by  a  river  coming  from  the  north, 
past  the  town  of  Souc  (Sok)  ;  the  united  stream  then  flows  southwards,  and  is  crossed 
by  a  bridge  at  Sapia,  on  the  lioe  of  the  road  between  Lourondson  (Lho-joag)  aod 
Chamtu  (Chiamdo),  and  lower  down  is  called  the  Nou-kiang. 

Due,  in  travelling  from  Lho-jong  to  Chiamdo,  reached  the  village  of  Kia-yn-kiso, 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  "  Souk-tohou,  qui  cotd^  efitre  deux  montagnes  et  dont  le$ 
eauT  sont  largeSf  ^profondes  et  rapides  ^ ;  he  found  the  villagers  in  great  tribulation 
hwaiise  a  fine  wooden  bridge  across  the  river  had  just  been  carried  away  by  a  flood  j 
be  was  consequently  obliged  to  cross  on  a  raft 

Tlie  Ahb^  Desgodius  travelled  from  Batang  viii  Kiangka  (Chinese)  or  Grartok 
(Tibetan)  up  the  valley  of  the  Lan-taan  to  Chiamdo  (his  Tcbamouto),  and  was 
endeavouring  to  proceed  to  Lhasa  by  the  road  viS,  Lho-jong,  when  ho  was  stopped 
on  the  plateau  at  the  head  of  the  Ou  river  (his  Ou^Kio),  which  lies  between  the 
Lu  and  the  Lan-taan.  He  says  of  this  road  that  it  crosses  the  Lu  by  a  wooden  bridge 
an  stone  piers,  at  a  place  called  Kia-yu-kiao  by  the  Chinese  and  Jelje-Sam  by  the 
Tibetans.*  He  travelled  along  the  Ou  from  its  sources  down  to  the  town  of 
Tchiaya  (the  Pandit's  Dayul)  and  on  to  its  junction  with  the  Lu  op|>osite  Menkon, 
in  lat.  28''  34',  confirming  the  FandiVs  rendering  of  the  Lu,  but  oorrectiog  his  map, 
which  shows  a  river  flowing  from  Dayal  into  the  Lau-tsan,  though  only  by  dotted 
lines,  implying  uncertainty. 

The  Pandit,  in  travelling  northwards  from  Lhasa,  entered  a  district  to  the  eiut 
of  the  hike  region  w  hich  was  called  the  Nag-chu*kha  (lit  Black  water  district),  where 
be  crossed  a  succession  of  streams  flowing  eastwards,  and  coming  from  the  northeni 
spurs  of  the  Niuchentangk  range  and  the  lake  region ;  in  his  map  these  streams  are 
represented  as  combining  into  a  single  river,  the  Nag-cha,  and  then  flowing  east^ 
wards  in  a  direct  line  to  Chiamdo,  and  then  turning  southwards  and  becoming  the 
Lan-taan;  but  the  whole  of  this  system  of  hydrography  is  purely  conjectural, 


•  These  arc  probably  the  lutmes  of  two  places  on  op^wsite  hankR  of  the  river,  the  first 
on  the  right  bonk^  as  we  know  from  Hnc»  find  the  frtctmd,  tho  Pandit*a  Shang-ve-Jam, 
on  the  lefl  bank. 


IS  IT  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  IRAWADI  OR  THE  SALWIN?  369 

as  is  indicated  by  the  dotted  lines  of  the  map.  Tlie  delineation  is  obviously 
improbable,  and  it  appears  to  have  been  adopted  merely  because  the  only  informa- 
tion the  Pandit  obtained  on  the  spot  regarding  the  Nag-chu  was  that  *'it  was 
believed  to  rnn  into  China." 

It  is  in  this  region  that  the  work  of  the  Pandit  from  the  south  meets  that  of 
Prejevalsky  from  the  north ;  the  eminent  Russiau  traveller  descended  to  a  little 
below  the  Dangla  range  into  the  basin  of  a  river  which  he  calls  the  Nap-chu  or 
Khara-ussu  (Black  Water),  and  in  his  map  he  shows  the  river  as  probably  rising  in 
lakes  to  the  west  and  flowing  eastwards. 

There  is  much  reason  to  accept  the  concurrent  evidence  regarding  the  course  of 
this  river,  within  Tibet,  which  is  furnished  by  the  Lamas'  map  and  the  '  M^moires 
concemant  les  Ghinois.'  The  sources  are  obviously  identical  with  the  Pandit's 
Nag-chu  and  Prejevalsky's  Nap-chu;  the  further  course,  first  towards  Sok  and 
then  to  the  bridge  on  the  road  from  Lho-jong  to  Chiamdo,  is  supported  by  Hue  and 
Desgodins ;  and  the  course  below  that  bridge,  down  to  the  parallel  of  29^,  is 
corroborated  by  Desgodins  and  the  Pandit ;  the  channel  between  27i°  and  29°  is 
well  known,  from  the  journeys  of  the  French  missionaries  at  Bonga ;  it  is  only 
below  27^^  that  the  river  enters  an  unknown  region,  and  becomes  lost. 

5.  The  Sanga  river  the  prohaMe  source  of  the  Lohit  Brahmaputra, — A  town 
called  Sanga^hu-jong  (lit  the  town  on  the  river  Sanga)  is  situated  to  the  north  of 
the  eastern  Himalaya  and  west  of  the  Lu.  In  the  map  of  the  Pandit* s  travels  the 
Sanga  river  is  shown  in  dotted  lines  as  probably  flowing  eastwards  into  the  Lu ;  in 
M.  Charles  Desgodins's  *  Thibet '  (p.  287,  2nd  edition)  it  is  said  to  join  the  Zayal 
river ;  in  the  maps  of  the  Abb^  Desgodins  and  Mr.  Lepper  it  is  shown  as  flowing 
southwards  into  an  eastern  branch  of  the  Irawadi.  The  Abb^  is  now  satisfied, 
after  perusing  the  Pandit's  report,  that  it  cannot  pass  down  into  the  Irawadi,  but  he 
still  holds  that  its  direction  below  the  town  to  which  its  name  is  given,  and  which 
he  writes  Sang-nga-kieu-dzong,  is  south,  not  east.  Thus  it  is  probably  the  river 
which  the  Pandit  came  across  at  Dowa,  where  joined  by  the  stream  from  the  Tila 
pass,  along  which  his  route  lay ;  he  mentions  it  as  *'  the  Zayul-chu  coming  from  the 
north " ;  he  also  says  that  **  a  route  branches  off  [from  Dowa]  to  Sanga-chu-jong, 
distant  about  50  miles  to  the  north."  He  crossed  the  river  a  few  miles  below  Dowa, 
by  a  wooden  bridge  80  paces  in  length,  and  found  it  "deep,  and  with  a  rapid 
current";  so  considerable  a  river  must  have  a  more  distant  source  than  the  one 
shown  oonjecturally  in  the  Pandit's  map,  and  is  most  probably  the  Sanga  river, 
after  its  descent  from  the  Tibetan  plateau,  "  through  the  narrow  cleft  between  two 
towering  pinnacles "  mentioned  by  the  AblxS  Krick  in  his  vivid  description  of  the 
Lohit  Brahmaputra. 

6.  The  Irawadi  proper, — Of  the  two  branches  of  this  river,  the  Meh-kha  and 
the  Mali-kha,  which  come  together  in  lat.  25°  50,  above  Bamo,  it  is  a  question 
which  is  the  greatest.  Either  of  the  two  may  join  the  Lu  in  the  unsurveyed  region 
between  the  parallels  of  26®  and  27®.  The  western  river,  the  Mali-kha,  has  been 
generally  regarded  hitherto  as  the  principal  stream,  on  the  authority  of  Wilcox ; 
but  in  Mr.  Lepper's  map  the  Meh-kha  is  called  the  "  Irawadi  proper."  A  native 
surveyor  who  was  sent  up  the  river  from  Bamo,  by  Captain  Sandeman,  in  1879,* 
found  it  much  swollen  at  Mainla  (Maingna),  25  miles  below  the  junction,  in  the 
nuddle  of  January;  leaving  the  river  and  proceeding  overland,  in  six  days  he 
struck  the  Meh-kha,  the  eastern  branch,  a  few  miles  above  the  junction,  and  found 
it  occupying  only  a  portion  of  its  bed ;  he  crossed  it  in  a  boat,  proceeded  north- 


♦  General  Report  on  Operations  of  Survey  of  India,  1879-80,  Appendix,  p.  32, 


370 


THE  LU  RIVER  OF  TIBET; 


wards  for  eome  dist-ance,  and,  returning  in  the  middle  of  February,  fotintl 
t)»at  tl^e  Meb-kha  had  fallen,  whereas  the  combined  river  at  Mainla  was  more 
flooded  thiin  when  he  last  saw  it.  Captain  Sandeman  has  therefore  concliided  that 
tho  Mali-kha  is  the  greater  river.  But  the  flooding  may  have  been  due  to  local 
rainfall  at  the  sources  of  the  Mali-kha,  which  we  know  from  Wilcox  and  Macgregor 
to  be  very  heavy  in  the  months  of  January  and  February.  The  native  surveyor 
w»s  informed  that  the  Meli-kha  becomes  flooded  in  April ;  thus,  as  all  the  great 
rivers  of  India  w^hich  rise  in  Tibet  or  in  the  Himalayan  monntaiiiB  begin  to  be 
flooded  by  the  melting  of  the  suows  in  April,  the  Meb-kha  may  very  possibly  be 
the  Irawadi  proper,  and  the  continimtioE  of  the  Lu. 

7.  The  Ea^ertir  Basin  of  the  Yaro^tsfinpo.^'Vf  hen  Pandit  Krishna  found  him- 
self unable  to  make  his  way  to  Assjim  through  the  Mislimi  country,  be  turned 
north  wank  from  Sama,  and  procj3eded  up  the  Rong  Thod  valley  of  Western  Zayul 
to  the  Himalayan  ranj^e,  which  he  crossed  at  the  Atagang  pass ;  tlience  cout inning 
northwards  for  about  150  miles,  he  passed  through  the  districts  of  Nagong  and  Fashu 
to  Lho-jong,  and  then,  travelling  westwards  for  about  200  miles,  he  passed  through 
Pemba  and  Arig  to  Lharugo,  ITiroughout  this  distance  his  course  lay  over  highly 
elevated  plateaus,  nowhere  below,  and  In  parts  much  above,  11,000  feet,  which 
constitute  the  eastern  and  northern  borders  of  the  eastern  basin  of  the  Yaro-tsanpo  ; 
the  bill  ranges  which  define  the  water-parting  lay  in  some  parts  on  his  right  hand,, 
in  others  on  his  left.  Leaving  Lharugo  he  found  the  hill  ranges  treoding  south-west 
through  Kongbo — in  general  parallelism  with  the  Ninchen-tangla  range,  between 
Lhasa  and  the  Tengri  Nur — down  to  the  channel  of  the  great  river,  where  they  face 
spurs  from  the  northern  slope  of  the  Himalayas,  tho  two  together  forming  the 
ixirtals  of  the  eastern  basin.  Down  to  this  ix>int  the  general  course  of  the  river  for 
many  hiindi^l  miles,  from  its  sources  in  the  Man asora war  lake  region,  is  a  little  south  of 
east ;  but  now  it  trends  northwards  and  flows  due  north-east — in  general  pftralleliam 
with  the  Kongbo  hills  and  the  Nmchen-taugla — for  about  100  miles,  when  it  turns 
abruptly  to  the  south;  its  course  has  been  explored  to  Gia*k-Sindong(6000  feet), 
about  twenty  miles  below  the  bend,  but  no  farther.  Measurements  of  the  dis- 
charges of  the  principal  rivers  entering  Assam  from  the  north,  and  other  collateral 
information,  conclusively  identify  it  with  the  Dihong  of  Upper  Assam,  which  ha& 
l)eeu  explored  upwards  to  a  point  abont  100  miles  below  Gia-la-Sindong.  Notking 
is  known  definitely  regarding  the  connecting  channel,  excepting  that  it  must  have  a 
fiill  of  about  7000  feet,  or  as  much  as  the  entire  fall  of  the  Yaro-tsanpo  in  a  course 
of  between  900  and  lOOO  miles  through  Tibet. 

Very  little  is  known  of  the  interior  of  this  eastern  basin,  for  Pandit  Krishna's 
route  lay  altogether  outside  it.  Bat  he  fixed  the  sources  of  an  important  affluent 
called  the  Nagong-chu  (lit.  Bbck-water),  whicli  rises  near  the  Atagang  pass ;  it  is 
shown  in  his  map  as  having  its  sources  near  those  of  the  Sanga-chu  on  the  cast,  and 
the  HongThod-cbu  on  the  south,  and  flowing  westwards,  and  joining  theyaro-tsanpo 
or  Dihong  river*  Needham'a  Mishmis  told  him  that  it  •*  flows  away  west  into  the  Abor 
country,"  Its  existence  appears  to  have  been  known  to  Wilcox,  who  was  told  by  a 
Misihmi  chief  that  the  Dihong  has  two  branches :  '*  one  from  or  passing  Lhasa,  and 
the  other,  the  smaller  of  the  two,  rising  near  the  heads  of  the  [Lohit]  Bmhmaputra,*' 
adding  that  **  the  Lhasa  people  on  their  way  to  the  I^ama  valley  [Zayul]  go  up  the 
lesser  Dihong,  and  cross  over  the  snowy  mountains  from  its  source  to  that  of  the 
Bmhmaputra."  This  lesser  Dihong  was  described  by  the  Pasi  Meyong  Abors  to 
Capt.  Beresford  in  1879  as  **  the  Kala-pani  (lit.  Black-water),  which  falls  into  the 
DihoDg  some  distance  in  the  interior  of  the  hills;"  and  tltey  also  mentioned  a  route 
iato  the  Lama  country  by  following  up  the  Kala-pani  and  crossiug  the  snowy  ranges. 
Again,  Lumliug  told  Lieut,  Bowlatt  in  1845  that  from  the  west  side  of  the  same 


IS  IT  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  IRAWADI  OR  THE  SALWIN  ?— DISCUSSION.     871 

xnonntain  from  which  the  Brahmaputra  issues,  likewise  proceeds  the  Dihong."* 
Thus  we  have  a  chain  of  concurrent  testimony  to  the  flow  of  the  Nagong-chu  into 
the  Taro-tsanpoy  and  to  an  important  route  from  Lhasa  to  Zayul  following  the  course 
of  the  Kagong.  For  the  latter  reason,  it  seems  prohaUe  that  the  junction  is  "  some 
distance  in  the  interior,"  say  a  little  below  6ia-la-Sindong,  rather  than  immediately 
above  the  point  where  the  Dihong  enters  the  plains  of  Assam,  as  shown  in  the 
Pandit's  map. 

Other  important  rivers  must  exist  in  this  basin  of  the  Yaro-tsanpo,  flowing  south- 
wards from  the  northern  scarp ;  and  the  Pandit's  map  shows  one,  the  Daksong-chu, 
as  rising  in  the  Arig  and  Lharugo  districts,  and  joining  the  great  river  a  little  above 
Gia-la-Sindong.  The  map  of  Pandit  Nain  Sing's  last  exploration  shows  this  river 
Tery  similarly.  But  to  its  east  there  is  a  great  region  which  is  a  blank  on  both  maps. 
We  get  some  information  about  it,  however,  in  the  *  M^moires  concemant  les  Chinois  * 
and  the  Lama's  map.  The  former  mentions  a  Eang-pou  river  rising  in  the  Tchouo- 
la-ling  mountains  to  the  east,  flowing  southwards,  entering  the  kingdom  of  Lo-ka-pou 
(the  Abors),  and  joining  the  Taro-tsanpo.  The  latter  shows  a  Een-pou  river  rising 
in  the  Tchamto  mountuns,  to  the  south  of  a  road  pasdng  westwards  from  Lourond- 
son  to  Choupatou  and  Tardson ;  the  two  first  places  are  obviously  identical  with 
Pandit  Krishna's  Lhojong  and  Shiobado,  and  the  third  probably  with  his  Alado. 
This  enables  us  to  fix  the  sources  of  the  Een-pou  with  certunty,  and  to  see  that  the 
river  cannot  pass  near  Sama,  as  supposed  by  the  Bishop  des  Mazures  {see  Note  2). 
Further,  the  Lama's  map  shows  a  river  flowing  from  the  Amdso  lake  to  the  south- 
east, near  the  [Himalayan]  water-parting,  which  may  probably  be  the  Pandit's 
Nagong-chu,  and  is  represented  as  joining  the  Een-pou  near  a  town  called  Chourton ; 
below  this  the  Een-pou  is  made  to  flow  for  some  distance  parallel  to  the  great 
Tsanpo,  and  then  both  are  stopped  on  entering  terra  incognita.  Here  the  map  says 
"  Unpeupitu  loin  de  ce  cote  8ont  les/rontierea  du  Royaume  d^Ava^  nomme  Ya-oua- 
Eoue ;  *  and  this  has  probably  caused  some  geographers  to  conjecture  that  the  rivers 
flow  into  Burma,  and  are  sources  of  the  Irawadi.  The  'M^moires'  say  that  after 
passing  into  the  kingdom  of  Lo-ka-pon-tchau  [the  country  of  the  Abors],  the  great 
river  turns  to  the  south-west  and  enters  the  kingdom  of  Ngo-no-te  [now  a  part  of 
Eastern  Bengal],  whence  it  flows  into  the  sea ;  and  this  shows  that  among  Chinese 
geographers  there  were  some,  though  possibly  a  minority,  who  had  an  accurate  know- 
ledge of  the  general  course  of  the  Yaro-tsanpo  from  its  sources  to  the  ocean. 

After  the  paper. 

Dr.  J.  Andebson  said  that  his  attention  was  originally  directed  to  the  subject  of 
the  sources  of  the  Irawadi  about  seventeen  years  ago  when  he  was  travelling  in 
Upper  Burma  with  Sir  E.  Sladen  on  the  first  expedition  to  Western  Yunnan.  He 
was  at  that  time  very  much  struck  with  the  size  of  the  Irawadi,  and  bearing  in 
mind  the  very  limited  geographical  distribution  assigned  to  it  on  the  maps,  he  was 
led  to  make  inquiries  not  only  with  regard  to  it,  but  also  with  regard  to  the  Salwin, 
General  Walker  had  stated  that  in  the  paper  which  he  (Dr.  Anderson)  read  in  1870, 
he  said  that  the  Irawadi  was  probably  fed  by  waters  descending  through  the  Tibetan 
plateau  and  entering  Burma  by  what  was  then  known  as  the  Eastern  Branch,  but 
the  fact  was  that  he  was  very  careful  to  guard  himself  in  expressing  an  opinion  as  to 
the  branch  from  which  the  river  got  its  waters.  What  he  stated  was  that  it  was  pro- 
bable that  some  Tibetan  river  flowing  down  in  the  direction  of  the  Irawadi  might 


^-  See  paragraph  20  of  letter  dated  2l8t  June,  1886,  from  the  Secretary  to  the 
Chief  Commissioner  of  Assam  to  the  Secretary  to  the  Goverument  of  India,  Foreign 
Department 


372 


THE  LU  KIVER  OF  TIBET; 


be  one  of  its  ttppcr  sources,  Lut  others  might  be  branches  of  the  Yaog-tse-kiang,  and 
the  Irawadi  drained  that  part  of  the  area  between  Lhaasa  and  Batang,  which  had 
prenonsly  been  apportioned  to  the  Cambodia  and  the  Salwin*  In  1870,  be  regarded 
the  npper  portion  of  the  Sahvin  as  the  source  from  which  came  tbe  great  body  of 
water  which  found  its  way  into  the  Irawadi,  and  in  a  map  wKicb  he  constructed 
he  drew  the  Sope  river  aii  coming  down  from  the  SoutbTanga  range.  He  waa  very 
much  gratified  to  find  that  his  view  had  received  such  ample  verification  from  tbe 
facts  wbicb  General  Walker  had  brought  before  the  meeting.  There  was  one 
important  fact  which  General  Walker  had  stated  witb  regard  to  the  physical  con- 
figuration of  the  area  between  the  Zayul  basin  and  the  meridional  ranges  to'  the 
east.  Only  one  range  of  mountains  intervened  between  the  Lu-kiang  and  the  Lohit 
Brahmaputra,  Of  course,  that  was  entirely  based  upon  the  survey  of  the  Pandit 
which  he  supposed  was  approximately  correcL  There  was,  therefore,  no  possibility 
for  another  river  to  be  introduce^ljljetween  the  Lohit  Brahmaputra  and  the  Lu-kiang, 
When  he  was  in  Moulmein  he  made  inquiries  as  to  the  dimensions  of  the  Salwi%  and 
he  ascertained  from  the  natives  that  the  river  at  that  point,  as  General  Walker  had 
stated  on  the  authority  of  Loczy*  the  geologibt,  had  not  a  large  quantity  of  water, 
had  not  any  eroding  channel,  and  that  it  was  a  comparatively  shallow  river  crossed 
by  a  ferry-boat  and  also  by  a  bridge.  The  facta  that  ho  collected  were  verified  by  the 
oiMervationa  of  Iioczy,  He  thought  Geneml  Walker  had  made  out  a  very  fair  case 
lor  what  was  called  tbe  upiier  waters  of  the  Sal  win  not  being  the  Sahvin  at  alL  lu 
the  map  that  he  (Dr.  Anderson)  drew  he  cut  off  the  8alwin  alx>ut  150  miles  north  of 
Moulmein,  showing  that  he  believed  the  district  above  belonged  to  the  Imwadi. 
The  only  way  in  which  the  question  could  be  solved  was  by  actual  observation  on  the 
spot,  and  by  tmcing  the  Lu-kiang  to  its  original  source,  but  General  Walker  ha^^l 
made  out  a  strong  case  as  to  the  possibility  of  the  Lu-kiang  fiowing  down  into  the 
Irawadi.  If  the  Lu-kiang  was  proved  not  to  be  connected  with  the  Irawadi,  then 
the  immense  rainfall  at  the  northern  portion  of  the  Irawadi  valley  must  be  looked  to 
as  a  source  from  which  that  river  derived  its  great  mass  of  water. 

Colonel  Sir  E,  B»  Sladek,  having  been  called  upon  by  the  President  to  join  in 
the  discussion,  said  that  he  rose  with  great  diffidence,  as  he  was  present  at  the 
meeting  almost  by  accident  and  did  not  know  until  he  entered  the  room  the 
subject  of  the  paper  of  the  evenings  Dr.  Anderson  had  read  a  paper  in  that 
room  some  eighteen  years  ago  on  the  sources  of  tbe  Irawadi :  he  (Sir  E.  B.  Slailen) 
was  present  on  that  occasion,  and  was  called  upon  to  say  a  few  words.  He  then 
»aid,  as  he  said  now,  that  ho  knew  nothing  definitely  about  the  sources  of  the 
Irawadi,  though  he  was  acquainted  with  certain  peculiarities  connected  with  the 
rise  and  fall  of  the  waters  of  that  river  in  Its  mid  course.  These  peculiarities, 
however,  were  too  remote  to  throw  any  light  on  tbe  veied  question  of  the  river's 
sources.  He  thought  General  Walker  had  added  a  valuable  link  to  the  speculative 
chain  of  critieiam,  which  seemed  to  prove  that  the  Irawadi  had  a  Tibetan  source,  but 
he  did  not  think  the  actual  question  would  be  aalisfaclorily  solved,  until  an  expedi- 
tion had  been  sent  for  the  purposes  of  special  exploration  and  survey.  There 
was  one  point  u|K)n  which  he  might  perhaps  be  regarded  as  an  authority.  Having 
lived  for  many  years  ia  Upper  Burma,  he  thought  he  might  say  that  the  rainfall 
there,  and  in  the  parts  contiguous  to  the  north,  could  not  alone  account  for  the 
large  volume  of  water  which  was  carried  away  by  the  Irawadi. 

Sir  Thomas  Wade  said  that,  without  having,  like  the  Abb^  Desgodins,  "  a  warm 
comer  in  his  heart "  for  this  theory  or  that,  it  did  appear  to  him  that  the  new 
conditions  assigned  by  General  Walker  to  the  course  of  the  Irawadi,  would  compel 
us  to  ignore  the  existence  of  the  Lung-ch'uan  and  one  or  two  important  streams 
Wsides,  which  Chinese  geographers  kid  down  as  rising  in  Tibet,  and  subsequently 


IS  IT  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  IRAWADI  OR  THE  SAL  WIN  ?— DISCUSSION.     373 

entering  China,  and  which,  if  they  existed  at  all,  could  hardly  fail  to  be  feeders  of 
the  Ta  Chin-sha  Chiang  (Ta  Kin-sha  Kiang),the  Great  Gold  Sand  River,  otherwise  the 
Irawadi.  The  course  of  the  Lu  Eiang,  or,  as  it  is  called  before  it  crosses  the  border 
of  Tfin-nan,  the  Nu  Kiang,  is  traced  with  apparent  completeness  from  its  rise  in 
Koko  Nor,  as  the  Sok,  past  Shobando  in  Tibet,  which  country  it  traverses  under 
various  names  until  it  leaves  it  as  the  Nu  Kiang.  Then,  crossing  the  border  land 
of  the  Nu  savages,  it  enters  Yiln-nan  as  the  Lu  Eiang,  and  its  course  through  the 
three  prefectural  jurisdictions  of  Li-kiang  Pu,  Ta-li  Fu,  and  Yung-ch*ang  Fu  is 
described  in  the  great  geography  of  YiiD-nan  with  remarkable  minuteness,  until  on 
reaching  the  southern  frontier  of  Yung-ch'ang  Fu,  it  proceeds  through  the  country 
beyond  as  the  Cha-li  or  Tsa-li,  and  becomes  known  to  foreign  geographers  as  the 
Salwin.  He  did  not  wish  to  be  understood  to  protest  against  General  Walker^s 
theory  as  unsustainable  but  simply  to  deprecate  its  immediate  adoption. 

Mr.  Chab.  H.  Leppeb  said  his  excuse  for  venturing,  as  an  amateur,  to  criticise 
the  theories  of  one  who  has  so  recently  held  General  Walker*s  eminent  and  pro- 
fessional position  was  this.  Ever  since  1878  he  had  taken  a  deep  interest  in  matters 
connected  with  this  frontier  of  India.  In  the  cold  weather  of  1881-2,  when  at 
Sadiya,  preparing  to  start  on  one  of  his  little  trips  across  the  frontier  in  search  of 
information,  he  heard  that  the  Abb^  Desgodins  was  on  his  way  up  the  Brahma- 
putra also  in  quest  of  information.  The  Abb^  Desgodins  had  lived  for  over  a 
quarter  of  a  century  on  the  Tibeto-Chinese  frontier,  at  places  not  much  more  than 
200  miles  from  our  extreme  frontier,  and  yet  that  200  miles  is  still  such  an  obstacle, 
thanks  to  our  Government,  that  he  had  had  to  travel  thousands  of  miles,  right 
across  China,  down  its  coast,  round  by  the  Straits,  across  the  Bay  of  Bengal,  and  up 
the  Brahmaputra,  to  reach  the  British  frontier,  at  a  point  about  200  miles  from  the 
point  he  had  lived  at  in  China.  His  visit  was  a  chance  of  acquiring  information  he 
(Mr.  Lepper)  could  not  miss.  Telegraphing  to  his  friends  in  Darjiling,  the  reply 
brought  the  welcome  news  that  he  would  reach  Sadiya  in  about  three  days.  On 
his  arrival  he  readily  accepted  his  (Mr.  Lepper's)  invitation  to  accompany  him  for 
a  portion  of  his  trip,  and  an  extremely  pleasant  fortnight  was  spent  together  in 
the  dug-out  canoe  which  served  both  for  conveyance  and  for  sleeping  apartment. 
Much  of  what  the  Abb^  Desgodins  told  him  about  Tibet  has  since  appeared  in  the 
Nineteenth  Century  JReview,  They  had  with  them  works  of  reference  to  which 
they  constantly  referred,  both  as  a  check  and  as  a  guide ;  and  whatever  was  written 
in  English,  he  having  dictated  in  French,  was  read  over  to  him  for  correction.  The 
notes  so  taken  down  can  therefore  be  trusted,  either  as  affording  the  Abba's  opinion 
at  that  time,  or,  as  stating  in  other  instances  the  conclusion  come  to  after  discussion 
and  consultation  of  references.  It  is  true  that  all  this  happened  before  A — k's 
return  from  his  splendid  journey,  but  he  should  advance  noUiing  here  which  can 
clash  with  that  authority. 

The  first  comment  in  analysing  General  Walker's  speculations — ^that  expression 
was  applied  with  all  respect^ was  this.  It  appears  that  the  lecturer  has  not 
taken  quite  as  much  note  of  the  monsoon  influence  as  is  necessary  in  drawing 
conclusions  as  to  the  length  of  rivers  by  comparing  their  volume.  He  lays  great 
stress  upon  these  comparisons  of  volume,  and  argues  that  because  one  stream  may 
contain  less  water  than  another  at  about  the  same  latitude,  therefore  the  former 
cannot  have  a  much  longer  channel  than  the  latter.  This,  he  (Mr.  Lepper)  feared,  is 
Iiardly  an  axiom.  On  the  other  hand,  the  consequence  of  a  river  being  within  the 
monsoon  influence  is  a  very  good  reason  why  its  volume  should  be  greatly  in  excess 
of  that  of  even  a  much  longer  river  whose  course  lies  outside  of  the  region  of  monsoon 
influence.  Coupled  with  this  omission  there  is  another :  the  area  of  the  watershed 
along  the  course  of  the  rivers  referred  to — speaking  now  of  the  Irawadi,  the  Salwin, 


374 


THE  LQ  rJVEK  OF  TIBET: 


and  the  Mekong  m  their  upper  waters — is  never  alluded  to,  yet  this  the  lecturer,  he 
was  sure,  would  allow  to  be  an  important  factor  in  the  speculation*  With  reference 
to  the  region  over  which  the  monaoon  is  felt,  the  following  items  occur  among  the 
notes  received  from  the  Ahbe  Desgodina,  "  The  limit  of  the  region  affected  by  the  rains 
of  the  Bay  of  Boigal  is  abont  half-way  between  Tseku  and  A  Tnn-Tzii,  near  the  28** 
of  latitude,  Yerkalu  is  outside  the  area,  and  irrigation  there  is  necessary*  The  fm-ther 
south  towards  Yimnan,and  the  nearer  thelrawadi  the  greater  the  influence,  Menkoii 
is  outside  the  area,  as  U  also  the  Lu  Tse  territory  J*  We  all  know  that  both  of  the 
Irawadi  branches  are  well  within  the  area  of  monsoon  influence.  Now  the  Irawadi*s 
western  branch  is  stated  by  all  our  authorities  as  under  90  yards  in  width,  and  Major 
Macgregor  makes  it  "  in  no  place  over  five  feet  deep.**  Wilcox  states  that  he  was 
"  surprised  to  find  but  a  small  river  not  more  than  80  yards  broad,  and  still  fordable, 
though  considerably  swollen  by  the  snows,"  These  are  details  which  guide  us  in 
estimating  the  size  of  the  eastern  branch,  which  he  (Mr,  Lepper)  ventured  in  1882 
to  call  the  Irawadi  Proper,  and  which  may  still  prove  to  be  so,  though,  in  having  to 
agree  with  General  Walker  in  turning  the  Song  Kga  Kiu  of  Tibet  into  the  Bralima- 
putm,  one  of  his  (Mr,  Lepper^s)  chief  rea,son3  for  giving  the  eastern  branch  of  the 
Irawadi  the  title  of  "  Irawadi  Proper  '*  baa  been  cancelled.  Wilooi  told  us  that 
among  the  objections  to  assigning  the  eastern  branch  a  very  distant  souroo  was  it» 
want  of  ma;Tiiitude,  for  it  is  nU  described  as  larger  than  the  Kampli  branch. 
Major  Macgregor  reports  that  the  Kamptis  all  seemed  to  agree  that  the  Phungmai 
(the  eastern  branch)  was  about  the  same  size  as  the  western  branch,  Mr.  Lepper's^ 
own  notes  acquired  from  natives  who  had  seen  both,  are  to  the  effect  that  the 
eastern  branch  is  a  little  bigger  than  the  western,  and  hence  it  is  called,  among 
its  Bumeroua  aliases,  Nam  Kiu  Lung  or  big  Nam  Kiu,  in  distinction  to  the  western 
branch  or  Nam  Kiu,  These  details  are  very  important^  aa  going  to  show  that  the 
two  bmnches  are  much  the  same  aize,  at  a  point  where  neither  have  commenced 
to  rt^ve  many  tributaries.  If  they  are  so  nearly  the  same  size,  how  is  it,  if,  as 
the  lecturer  advances,  the  Lu,  which  is  already  a  big  stream  in  Tibet,  and  has  a 
course  of  700  miles  in  Tibet  before  emerging  from  the  Himalayas,  how  is  it  that 
the  branch  receiving  all  this  drainage  is  not  immensely  bigger  tlian  the  other — or 
western  branch — ^ which  ia  not  so  favoured?  and  which  cannot  be  so  favoured ^ 
unless  it  has  a  subterranean  course  under  the  Lohit. 

Taking  up  next  the  case  of  the  Sal  win  as  compared  with  the  Mekong : — The  Abbt- 
Desgodins  has  crossed  the  two  repeatedly — for  ho  (Mr,  Lepper)  hoped  to  show  good 
circumstantial  evidence  for  atill  considering  the  Lu  and  the  Salwin  the  same  river — 
and  he  found  between  the  parallels  of  28°  and  29^  that  the  Lu^r  Salwin— is  there 
sensibly  the  larger  river.  That  is  a  much  more  important  fact  than  that  Gill  and  I^oczy 
found  the  case  reversed  180  miles  lower  down,  after  (as  in  the  case  of  the  Salwin)  one 
liad  been  running  in  a  necessarily  very  narrow  defile  between  two  high  ranges  for  by 
far  the  greater  portion  of  its  course,  and  ouisidt  the  monsoon  area,  whereas  the  other 
had  enjoyed  a  much  greater  (i*e.  wider)  watershed  after  reaching  the  monsoon  region, 
and  had  therefore  most  probably  received  several  tributaries.  If  Ilerr  Loczy  found 
the  Sidwin  to  be  only  80  jmce^s  broad,  and  shallow,  and  if  that  is  to  be  used  as  an 
argument  against  the  Salwin  being  the  Lu,  on  account  of  the  lattef  s  700  miles  in 
Tibet,  then  that  argument  tells  equally  well  against  the  Lu  being  the  eastern  branch 
of  the  Irawadi,  which »  by  all  accounts,  is  about  the  same  size,  or  not  much  over 
80  yards  in  width,  and  shallow  too. 

Next  as  to  tlie  identity  of  name.  General  Walker  lays  it  down  that  the  Lu 
cannot  acquire  its  name  from  the  country  of  the  Lu  tribe,  which  lies  due  south  of 
Bonga,  and  not  south-west  as  shown  on  General  Walker's  map.  General  Walker  a 
experience  of  Chinese  etymological  idiosyncrasies,  he  ventured  to  think,  is  limited. 


IS  IT  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  IRAWADI  OR  THE  S AL WIN  ?— DISCUSSION,     375 

General  Walker  evidently  abstains  from  using  na  an  argument  the  Chinese  trait  of 
doing  things,  according  to  our  notions,  backwards.  He  (Mr.  Lepper)  had  had  several 
years  among  the  Chinese,  and  he  thought  that  they  are  qiiite  capahle  of  having 
named  this  river  liackwrards,  so  to  speak.  For  the^e  reasons :  the  Sal  win  is  not  only 
called  the  Lu,  but  also  the  Lu-Tse^Kinng,  by  the  Chinese,  as  stated  on  the  Abbe's 
m!*p.  The  Chinese  traders  ascending:  it  so  called  it  from  the  territory  of  the  Lu-Taes 
from  whence  it  descended  into  ihat  no  maix*«  land  to  the  north  of  Upper  Burma. 
Having  begun  by  calling  it  the  Lu-Tse-Kiang,  the  Chinese  on  reaching  Tibet  and 
finding  it  called  Nu>  or,  as  it  should  be  written^  Ngen,  would  be  the  very  last  people 
to  change  their  Lu  into  Ngeu,  The  Chinese  play  all  kinds  of  havoc  with  Tibetan 
Tiames,  often  approximating  the  Tibetan  name  to  Chinese  souuds,  conveying  a  meancng 
to  Chinese  eat?,  quite  irrespective  of  the  original  Tibetan  meaning.  They  frequently 
do  not  even  attempt  to  approach  the  sound  of  the  Tibetan  uames  ;  as  a  case  in  point, 
the  M<5koDg  is  called  the  Lan-tzang-Kiang  (pure  river  of  the  south)  in  Chinese,  whereas 
the  Tibetans  call  it  Da-Kin,  and  sometimes  La-Kiu.  There  are  many  Tibetan 
sounds  which  the  Chinese  cannot  pronounce,  and  possibly  Ngeu  is  one  of  these,  and 
they  may  have  had  an  additional  inducement  to  adhere  to  their  name  Lu,  inasmuch  as 
by  so  doincj  they  would  be  following  that  which  Chinese  are  bo  tenacious  of,  their  dearly 
loved  '*  old  custom.**  Sometimes  the  Chinese  try  to  hit  the  sound  as  nearly  as  they 
can,  and  thus  Gungra  in  Tibetan  becomes  Khong-la  in  Chinese,  which  has  no  mean- 
ing, but  IS  their  beat  approach  to  Gungra.  They  have  no  syllabi©  for  "  Qung,''  and 
cannot  pronounce  r.  As  General  Walker  (according  to  a  footnote)  thinks  that 
an  explanation  given  him  by  the  Abb^^  (that  **  Lu  **  may  be  the  nearetst  approach 
the  Chinese  can  make  to  **A-nong,''  the  Chinese  language  not  containing  the 
syllable  "  Nong  ^)  can  scarcely  be  considered  lucid  and  satisfetctory,  he  (Mr.  Lepper) 
could  give  him  several  others,  such  m  the  case  of  the  town  Do  (sometimes  Ta-tsey- 
do,  Le»  the  junction  of  the  Ta  and  the  Tsey  rivers)  in  Tibetan,  which  becomes  Ta- 
ts ien-lu  in  Chinese  (the  place  where  arrows  are  forged  1). 

On  one  speculation  he  completely  accepted  General  Walker's  view — that  of  tho 
Song-nga-kiu  being  one  of  the  sources  of  the  Brahmaputra,  It  would  take  too  loijg 
to  repeat  from  his  paper  in  the  *  Proceedings  '  of  the  Asiatic  Society  of  Bengal  his 
former  reasons  for  drawing  that  stream  aa  a  part  of  the  Irawadi,  but  he  must  ask 
General  Walker  to  notice  that  there  is  a  trifling  error  in  saying  that  the  Abbe'^s  map 
published  by  tho  Asiatic  Society  of  Bengal  ia  reproduced  in  the  2nd  edition  of 
*  Le  Tibet.'  In  the  former  the  Song-nga-kiu  did  not  flow  into  the  Irawadi,  but,  by 
dotted  lines,  into  the  Brahmaputra.  The  new  map  in  the  2nd  edition  of '  Le  Tibet' 
agrees  with  his  (Mn  Lepper  s)  in  making  the  Song-nga-kiu  fall  into  the  Irawadh 
Both  agreed  to  make  this  alteration,  &b  they  thought  they  had  o:»llected  sufficient 
evidence  of  a  kind  to  justify  the  change,  as  nobody  at  that  time  knew  what  A — k 
has  since  brought  to  light,  viz.  that  tho  Lohit  (i.e.  the  Brahmaputra)  intervened. 
Hence  thay  "  corrected  "  what,  as  it  happened,  was  correct  inft>  an  error,  not  an 
uncommon  event  in  speculative  geography. 

He  would  now  ask  General  Walker  what  we  are  to  do  on  our  maps  with  that  river 
up  which  those  Chinese  traduris  mot  by  the  Abbe  have  ascended,  and  which  they 
have  called  Lu  or  Lu-tse-Kiang,  and  which  they  have  told  him — this  he  (Mr.  Lepper) 
took  from  his  notes — ^passes  for  four  days'  march  through  the  territory  of  tlie  Lu* 
tses?  In  asking  this  question  he  must  point  out  that  Chinese  traders  do  nat  visit 
Bor  Kampti,  a  tract  through  which  both  branches  of  the  Irawadi  flow. 

In  conclusion  :  the  Irawadi,  although  in  full  position  for  receiving  monsoon  rains, 
and  although  it  has  a  comparatively  wide  watershe«l,  is  only  about  80  yards  wide, 
and  shallow ;  is  it  not  much  more  probable  then  that  it  should  have  a  shorter  couiso 
than  a  river  conined  in  a  gorge  between  two  mountain  ranges,  shut  out  from  the 


THE  LU  RIVER  OF  TraET,  ETC. 


monsoon  and  from  tributaries,  and  whick  river  k  also  80  yards  wide  ?  Is  not  the 
latter'a  only  chance  of  attaiomg  a  volume  equal  to  that  of  the  Irawadi  depeadont 
upon  its  longer  course  ? 

Though  he  had  miide  use  of  the  identity  of  name  in  his  argnmeot,  he  trusted  he 
had  made  clear  that  "  the  cAtV/ argument  in  favour  of  the  identity  of  the  Lu  above 
Bonga  with  the  Salwin  '*  is  not,  after  ail,  this  identity  of  name.  And  aa  regards  the 
"  still  warm  comer  in  the  heart  "  of  the  Ahy  Desgodins,  which  the  lecturer  appears 
to  think  Is  all  that  the  Abb<3  has  left  for  the  Salwin  theory,  all  he  could  say  is  that, 
notwithstanding  that  the  Abbe'  had  commissioned  him  (Mr*  Lepper)  to  edit  and  to 
translate  *Le  Thibet,'  and  notwithstanding  that  he  had  had  two  letters  from  him 
wnthin  the  past  month — one  by  last  mail — ^he  makes  no  reference  whatever  in  eitlier 
of  these  to  any  desire  on  his  part  to  make  any  alterations  in  the  text  of  *  Le  Thibet,* 
as  he  would  have  done,  he  thought,  had  he  been  converted  to  the  lecturer's  views. 
iVvk  page 293,  2nd  ed,  *  Lo  Thibet*) 

He  thanked  General  Walker  for  his  kind  permission  to  make  these  remarks, 
and  he  was  sure  they  would  be  accepted  in  the  spirit  in  which  they  were  offered. 

General  Walkze  said  that  Mr.  Lepper  had  given  the  results  of  conversations  he 
had  had  with  the  Ahlxl  Desgodins  some  years  ago,  before  the  travels  of  the  Pundit  had 
been  published ^  hut  he  (General  Walker)  had  heard  from  the  Abb^  during  the  last 
few  weeks.  If  the  Abbe  had  said  that  the  Chinese  tracers  from  the  south  had 
travelled  up  the  Ln  river,  that  would  have  settled  the  matter,  but  what  he  actually 
said  was  that  they  had  not  told  him  that  they  had  not  done  so*  The  fact  was  that 
the  French  maps  in  the  Abbe*s  possesmon  had  biassed  him  to  believe  that  the 
Lu'kiang  was  the  upper  source  of  the  Salwin.  When  he  constructed  his  own  map 
he  was  90  certain  about  it  that  ho  wrote  the  name  "Salwin"  on  the  course  of  the 
river  high  up  in  Tibet,  Now,  however,  that  he  had  got  further  infgrmatioD>  ho 
admitted  that  there  was  much  reason  to  question  the  accuracy  of  hia  early  impres- 
sions ;  from  the  Chinese  traders  he  obtained  no  information  whatever  regarding  the 
river;  indeed  they  never  told  him  that  they  had  travelled  np  any  river  at  all. 

The  Chairman  (General  R,  Strachey)  said  the  diBCUSsion  had  been  very  inter- 
esting, but  after  all  it  was  only  speculative  geography »  The  subject  was  one  iu 
which  he  personally  felt  considerable  interest,  having  for  many  years  past  thought 
a  I  good  deal  about  Tibet  His  own  disposition  at  the  present  time,  with  such 
information  as  was  available,  was  to  aide  with  General  Walker.  The  three  great 
rivers  which  flowed  from  Tibet,  the  Kin-sha-Kiang,  the  Lan-tsan^kiang,  and  the 
Lu-kiang,  were  crossed  in  their  upper  jjarts  by  the  Pandit  Krishna.  He  crossed  the 
first  at  an  elevation  of  7700  feet,  and  described  it  as  300  yards  wide,  llic  next  he 
stated  was  crossed  by  two  bridges  at  an  elevation  of  9450  feet,  and  the  Lu  was  said 
to  be  200  yards  wide  at  an  elevation  of  7100  feet.  As  to  the  Kin-&ha*KiaDg  there 
was  no  possible  doubt.  Where  Gill  crossed  the  Kin-sha-Kiang  on  his  journey  from 
Batang  to  Talifu  and  Bhamo  he  made  it  200  yards  wide.  Then  he  crossed  the 
Ljm-tBan-kiang  below  Talifu,  where  it  was  only  60  yards  wide,  at  an  elevation 
of  4000  feet  Kext  he  crosseti  the  river  which  is  certainly  the  Salwin,  to  which 
he  also  gives  the  name  of  Lu-kiarag,  by  a  suspension  bridge,  the  stream  l>eing  about 
70  yards  wide,  at  an  elevation  of  2000  feet*  The  middle  river  of  the  three,  where 
crossed  by  the  Fundit,  seems  to  have  been  the  smallest^  and  considering  what  the 
Salwin  afterwards  became  it  was  rather  curious  that  the  third  of  those  rivers 
should  convert  itself  into  the  Salwin,  while  the  second  became  a  far  larger  river, 
the  Mekong,  The  monsoon  reachcil  to  the  extreme  northern  part  of  Burma,  and 
made  it  very  difficult  to  form  any  clear  opinion  as  to  the  source  from  which  the 
rivers  that  traverse  the  country  are  fetl,  based  on  their  apparent  size.  It  seemed 
to  him  that  as  the  Lu  was  relatively  so  deep  in  the  upper  part  of  its  course,  the 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  877 

probalnlity  was  that  it  had  its  outfall  at  a  lower  level  than  the  others,  and  that 
there  was  a  greater  ohance  of  the  waters  of  the  Lu-chu  discharging  into  the  Irawadi 
than  into  the  Salwin.  It  was,  moreover,  extremely  improhahle  that  a  river  should 
have  such  a  course  as  was  marked  out  for  the  Salwin,  coming  down  from  latitude 
dO^  to  25^  ahnost  without  any  affluent  at  all,  and  confined  strictly  between  two 
mountain  ranges. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 

Mr.  Carey's  Boute  in  Central  Asia. — In  the  E.G.S.  <  Proceedings  ' 
for  January  1887,  a  brief  note  will  be  found  tracing  the  explorations  of 
Mr.  A.  D.  Carey  up  to  the  village  of  Chdklik,  near  Lake  Lob,  where 
he  spent  the  latter  part  of  the  winter  of  1885-86.  Information  has  now 
been  received  from  Mr.  Carey,  dated  from  Leh  in  Ladak  (to  which  place 
he  returned  near  the  end  of  April  last),  showing  how  the  second  year  of 
his  adventurous  wanderings  has  been  passed.  About  the  1st  May, 
1886,  a  start  was  made  from  Ch4klik,  with  the  object  of  exploring  some 
of  the  northern  regions  of  Tibet,  during  the  few  months  of  summer  that 
enable  such  elevated  and  inhospitable  regions  to  be  visited.  Mr.  Carey 
passed  south  across  the  Altyn  and  Chiman  mountains,  and  reached  the 
foot  of  a  high  chain,  which  is  probably  the  true  Euen  Lun.  Here  his 
guides  failed  to  find  a  pass  by  which  it  was  possible  to  cross  so  early  in 
the  year,  and  he  had  to  travel  a  considerable  distance  eastward,  through 
barren  and  difi&cult  country,  until,  at  length,  an  opening  was  found 
leading  to  the  valley  of  the  Ma  Chu — the  head  source  of  the  Tang-tse 
Eiang.  The  Ma  Chu  seems  to  have  been  followed  down  until  the  main 
track  between  Lassa  and  Eoko-nor  was  struck,  when  want  of  fodder  and 
supplies  obliged  the  party  to  turn  northward  again,  and  recross  the  Euen 
Lun  by  passes  which  General  Prejevalsky  and  the  Pundit  A — k  have 
already  described.  Mr.  Carey  now  found  himself  in  the  Tsaidam  region, 
and  made  an  interesting  round  journey  from  a  place  called  Grolmo 
(where  his  caravan  was,  in  the  meantime,  left  to  recruit),  and  back  to 
the  same  point.  During  this  excursion  a  good  deal  was  seen  of  the 
nomadic  Ealmuks  and  Mongols  who  inhabit  the  comparatively  low- 
lying  valleys  of  Tsaidam.  They  seem  to  have  been  peacefully  inclined, 
but  not  over  hospitable,  and  frequently  refused  to  part  with  either  food 
or  grain  in  exchange  for  money.  Eventually,  in  the  autumn,  the 
explorer  made  a  second  journey  over  the  Euen  Lun,  and  then  again 
turning  northward,  struck  straight  across  the  Tsaidam  country  and  the 
Gobi,  to  Sachau  and  Hami,  whence  he  travelled  to  Urumtsi,  in  the 
Tien  Shan,  now  the  capital  of  Chinese  Turkistan.  Here  the  party  was 
well  received  by  the  Chinese  governor  and  despatched  to  Yarkand, 
where  it  arrived  early  in  the  present  year,  and  whence  a  start  was  made 
on  the  7th  March  for  Ladak.  From  the  few  particulars  contained  in 
Mr.  Carey's  letter  from  Ladak,  it  would  seem  that  the  obstacles  he  had 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES, 


to  contend  with  in  exploiing  nor  them  Tibet  were  snow,  want  of  fodder, 
and  nmtinoLis  i>Qny  drivers.  From  Chaklik  to  the  point  where  the 
Lliassa  track  was  strock,  in  Jul}',  occupied  eighty-three  day^s,  and  during 
this  time  no  hnman  being  was  inct  with.  A  great  part  of  the  gixnind 
traversed  appeivrs  to  be  new  to  geographers,  both  on  this  section  of  the 
jounioy  and  in  Taaidam;  while  Bomo  parts  of  the  homeward  routo  to 
Yarkand  are  also,  to  all  intents  and  purposes,  new.  In  any  case,  Mr. 
Carey  and  bis  assistant  Mr.  Dalgleish  are  the  only  Englishmen  who 
have  ever  travelled  through  the  entire  length  and  breadth  of  Chinese, 
or  Eastern,  Tnrkistan* 

Explorations  in  the  Island  of  Haman. — Mr.  B.  C.  Henry^  the  author 
of  *  Ling-Nam,  or  Interior  Arrows  of  Southern  China,'  informs  us  that 
last  year  he  mad©  a  second  \4sit  to  the  Island  of  Hainan,  and  raaile  still 
more  extensive  journeys  than  before  recorded  among  the  aborigines  of 
the  interior  mountain  region,  reaching  the  geographical  centre  of  the 
Lee  territory,  and  demonstrating  tho  fact  that  this  region,  supposed  to 
be  iinpasgable,  can  be  traversed  from  east  to  west  and  from  north  to 
south  with  coniparati%'o  ease.  We  hope  soon  to  receive  from  Mr.  Henrj^ 
further  details  of  his  interesting  journey. 

Expedition  to  Kova  Zembla.^ — M»  Con&tantin  Nosiloflf,  the  Russian 
traveller  and  naturalist,  informs  us,  in  a  letter  written  from  Kazan,  of 
his  intention  to  undertake  this  summer  an  expedition  to  Nova  Zembla. 
M*  NosilofF  has  recently  been  engaged  in  exploring  tho  Ural  Mountains 
in  order  to  find  an  easy  route  betwcjen  the  Petchora  and  the  Obi.  The 
objects  of  the  present  expedition  to  Kova  Zembla  are  (1)  to  prepare  a 
detailed  map  of  tho  coasts  and  the  interior  of  the  island ;  (2)  to  study 
the  hydrography  of  the  coast,  and  make  observations  regarding  the 
movements  of  the  ice  in  the  Kara  Sea  and  in  the  straits  leading  into  it ; 
(3)  to  make  meteorological  observations,  and  to  collect  zoological  and 
botanical  specimens ;  (4)  to  study  the  ethnography  of  the  SamoYedes. 
Ho  invites  suggestions  from  specialists  in  theso  branches  of  science 
resident  in  England. 

Eastern  Siberia.'—At  the  recent  general  meeting  of  the  Geographical 
Society  of  Paris,  M.  Joseph  Martin  gave  an  account  of  his  second  journey 
in  Eastern  Siberia,  which  extended  over  a  period  of  nearly  four  years 
(May  1882  to  Jan.  1886).  In  1882  he  was  entrusted  by  a  Russian 
mining  company  with  a  mission  to  organise  and  survey  its  mines  in  tho 
neighbourhood  of  Vitim  and  Olekma,  on  the  river  Lena.  Tho  prevailing 
formation  of  this  mining  region  is  slate,  with  iron  pyrites  and  reefs  of 
(quartz.  Tho  workings  aro  confined  to  the  auriferous  deposits,  the  gold 
being  obtained  in  the  form  of  spangles  and  nuggets  at  a  maximum  depth 
of  170  feet.  While  the  auriferous  deposits  of  the  Lena  appear  from  the 
fossil  remains  to  be  of  the  same  age  as  those  of  the  Amur,  the  former  aro 
found  at  a  much  greater  depth  than  the  latter.     His  mission  with  regard 


GEOOIUrUICAL  NOTES. 


87t 


to  the  mineB  having  been  fulfilled,  M,  Martin  determined  to  carry  ont  a 
long-oheriehed  scheme  of  exjiloration  in  the  little-kno^vn  ccmntr}*  between 
the  Lena  and  the  Sea  of  Japan,  including  the  region  of  the  Stanovoi 
MouBtaiDS*     The  general  direction  of  the  march  from  Olekma,  on  the 
Lena,  was  sonth-west,     Six  or  eight  raonntain  ranges,  ileniidod  of  vege- 
tation,   with   watercoTirBes    in   the   intervening   valleys,   were   crossed 
in  succession,  their  elevation  ranging  from  1300  to  2700  feet.    The  party 
at  length  reached  Lake  Nitshatka,  where  the  vegetation  is  more  abun* 
dant*    Several  Boundings  in  the  lake  were  made,  which  showed  a  depth 
of  490  feet.     The  lake  is  fed  by  etreams  from  the  lofty  glacier-crowned 
summits  in  the  vicinity,  and  diechargee  its  w^aters  eafitwards  into  the 
Tchara,  an  affluent  of  the  Olokma.     Not  far  from  the  lake,  to  the  south- 
weat,  the  valley  of  the  Yitim  is  separated  from  that  of  the  Tchara  by  a 
narrow  ridge,  w^hich  was  crossed  by  the  party  at  a  height  of  about  0000 
feet.     The  crevasses  of  the  glaciers  on  the  northern  sloi]>6  of  the  rang^ 
made  travelling  difficult.     The  flora,  of  which  the  traveller  obtained 
specimens,  is  quite  alpine  in  character.      Beyond  Lake  Kitshatka  the 
mountainDUB  region  is  perceptibly  more  elevated  than  that  previously 
traversed.     The  party  then  journeyed  down  the  valley  of  the  Tchara  for 
about  a  months  and  crossing  again  the  water-divide  into  the  valley  of  the 
Vitim,  reached  a  plateau  containing  a  series  of  lakes,  the  principal  of 
which  is  Lake  Amadisse.     The  country  between  this  plain  and  the  Kalar, 
an  affluent  of  the  Vitim,  is  drained  by  numerous  tributary  streams. 
Although  this  was  in  August  snow  had  faUen  twice.     In  this  region 
winter  succeeds  summer  very  quickly.     The  transition  generally  takes 
place  between  the  15th  August  and  the  1st  September.     At  the  first 
sign  of  winter  the  Tunguzes  of  the  party  began  to  get  unruly,  and  were 
disposed  to  desert.     On  the  marshy  plateau  which  commands  the  valley 
of  the  Kalar  the  traveller  discovered  two  small  lakes  situated  at  an  alti- 
tude of  about  3000  feet,  one  of  which  is  ctdled  by  the  natives  Dwajang, 
and  the  other  he  named  Lake  Martin-     The  succession  of  tablelands  be- 
tween Lake  Amadisse  and  Lake  Martin  are  of  slate  formation,  and  rich 
in  mineralSt  such  as  iron,  copper,  coal,  and  lead.     The  party  then  again 
entered  the  valley  of  the  Olekma,  where  the  vegetation  in  the  direction 
of  the  Stanovoi  Mountains  is  quite  southern  in  character,  and  presents  a 
sharp  contrast  to  that  of  the  Vitira  valley.    After  six  months'  toUsome 
marching  the  foot  of  the  Stanovoi  range  was  reached.     It  was  the  inten- 
tion of  the  traveller  to  cross  the  range  to  the  south-east,  near  the  source 
of  the  Aldan,  in  order  to  explore  the  river  Zea,  but  he  was  compelled, 
through  the  insubordination»of  the  Tunguzes  and  the  aj^proaoh  of  winter, 
to  tnm  almost  due  south*     Between  the  Olekma  and  the  northern  part 
of  the  Stanovoi,  and  separated  from  the  former  by  a  ridge  of  4000  feet, 
I  flows  the  Tunguir,  an  affluent  of  the  Olekma,     The  Stanovoi  range,  in 
the  part  visited  by  the  traveller,  consists  of  rounded  peaks,  covered  with 
forests  of  larches  and  birches*    Here  and  there  are  summits,  rising  to  an 
No,  VL— Jtoe  1887.]  2  e 


B80 


GEOGKAPBICAL  NOTES* 


elevation  of  from  4300  to  5000  feet,  bar©  of  Tegetataon,  and  snow-covered 
during  part  of  tlie  year.  As  far  as  explored  by  the  traveller,  the  rang© 
preeentfi  a  Ices  accentuated  relief  than  the  watershed  between  the  Oleknia 
and  the  Yitim,  The  crossing  of  the  Stanovoi  jHonotains,  wbich  at  that 
point  run  in  parallel  chains,  occupied,  by  forced  marches,  three  long 
days,  and  was  accomplished  without  any  gnide  but  the  compass,  and 
under  the  most  trying  conditions^  the  reindeer  sinking  three  feet  into  the 
snow.  The  traveller  had  constructed  a  number  of  light  sledges,  and 
made  some  tongh  snow-shoes  for  the  men.  The  part}^  then  debouched 
into  the  valley  of  one  of  the  upper  tributaries  of  the  Amur,  where  a  snow- 
8torm»  lasting  ten  days,  overtook  them.  After  marching  parallel  with 
the  Amazar,  they  eventually  reached  the  banks  of  the  Amur  itself  in 
November  1883  (nine  months  from  starting),  at  a  village  thirty  miles 
from  Albazino*  From  this  point,  accompanied  by  a  devoted  Tunguz,  he 
made  his  way  to  Kara,  and  aftenjv'ards  returned  to  Irkutsk.  In  the 
spring  of  1884  he  set  out  on  a  joiu-ney  t^  the  mining  district  of  Trans- 
Baikal,  on  the  Mongolian  frontier,  whence,  after  a  stay  of  six  weeks,  he 
travelled  east  to  study  the  region  between  the  Argun  and  the  C  bilk  a. 
llavLug  reached  Albazine  a  second  time*  he  travelled  along  the  south 
ttlope  of  the  range  into  the  upper  valley  of  the  Zea,  which  is  mountainouB, 
picturesque,  and  covered  with  beautiful  forests.  The  route  along  the 
Ijase  of  the  Stanovoi  was  difficult,  owing  to  the  "  tundras."  He  spent 
some  months  on  the  Amur  and  the  Ussuri,  and  he  ascended  the  latter 
river  to  Lake  Kbinka  and  Yiadivostock.  The  itinerary  of  his  route  be- 
tween the  Lena  and  the  Amur,  carefully  prepared  by  the  traveller  with 
the  aid  of  the  compass,  has  been  submitted  to  the  BuBsian  Staff,  and  the 
results  will  be  incorporated  into  the  map  of  Siberia. 

Norwegian  Coast  audDeep-aea  Survey  in  188  6.— Captain  Fabricius, 
director  of  the  hydrographic^l  section  of  the  Geographical  Survey  of 
Norway,  gives  the  following  particulars  as  t^j*  the  results  of  the  hydro- 
graphical  researches  earned  out  by  him  on  the  north-west  coast  of 
Norway  last  year  i^— The  part  of  the  coast  sounded  off  the  islands  of 
Eiist  and  Yiero  (lat.  67-68"^  N.»  and  long.  29-3lf  E.)  is  of  far  more 
interest  than  those  of  previous  summers,  as  we  have  here,  in  all  proba- 
bility, disoovered  the  end  of  the  bank  projecting  from  the  west  side  of 
tlie  Lofoden  Jj^lands.  West  of  the  two  islands  named  a  large  sub- 
marine plateau  w^as  sounded  during  last  summer,  having  a  fairly 
gradual  slope  southwards,  a  sharp  fall  towards  the  deep  ocean j  and 
finishing  towards  the  west.  This  plateau  forms  probably  the  southern^ 
most  and  widest  part  of  the  bank:  which  pit>ject8  from  the  Lofoden  and 
Yesteraalen  Islands,  the  width  of  which  appears  to  decrease  northwards, 
so  that  its  edge  or  fall  on  the  ocean  side  is  here  closer  to  the  coast. 
About  four  geographical  miles  west  of  the  islands  of  Uost  and  Varo 
the  depth  was  found  in  several  places  to  bo  60  fathoms,  and  the 
bottom  sand.      Inside   this   line  the   bottom  is  uneven,    with   several 


* 


GEOGHAPHICAL  NOTES. 


881 


smaller  elevated  banks,  called  by  the  fiBLerm^n  sJcaUer  (yhells),  whilst 
westward  it  gradually  elopes  UDtil  3li  miles  wvst  of  Rost  the  depth 
IB  100  fathoms.  Here  the  depth  niiiB  nearly  north  to  south  for  a 
distance  of  about  40  miles,  or  from  south  of  the  Skorava^r  Inland  (the 
southernmost  islet  of  the  Rtist  group)  to  the  southernmost  point  of 
MofikentesQ  (Lofoden  Islands),  whence  it  trends  eastwards.  As  regards 
the  flouthcm  part  inwards  about  four  miles  south  of  SkomvaT,  and  aa 
regards  the  northern  t^iwards  A'aeru,  until  28  or  30  miles  west  of  that 
island,  it  curves  north-eastwards.  Inside  this  line  the  bottom  is  uni- 
formly sand,  and  sand  mixed  with  pehldes  and  marine  shells.  Further 
westwards  the  plateau  conti lines  with  a  still  gradual,  but  somewhat 
t|uick0r,  increase  of  depth,  until  60  miles  west  of  Eost  it  attains  a 
depth  of  150  fathoms.  The  nature  of  tlie  bottom  still  remains  the  same 
until  the  last-mentioned  depth  is  approached,  when  the  lead  brought 
up  sandy  clay.  This  spot  is  on  the  edge  or  fall  of  the  bank  towards 
the  deep  ocean,  as  a  few  miles  furtlier  west  the  depth  inoreascH  rapidly 
from  150  to  300  fathoms  and  more.  About  70  miles  west  of  Skomvon* 
a  depth  of  438  fathoms,  \%ith  clay  bottom,  was  found,  and  a  sounding 
of  a  series  taken  by  the  Norwej^an  North  Atlantic  Expedition,  about 
five  miles  further  west,  showed  a  depth  of  5D3  fathoms  and  a  similar 
bottom.  Korth wards  the  150  fiithom  iino  of  depth  and  the  lines  of 
depth  beyond^running  nearly  parallel  for  200,  250,  300,  and  350  fatboms 
— apx)roach  eomewhat  to  the  above-mentioned  100  fathom  line,  which 
seems  to  imiicato  a  sharper  fall  ocean  wards  outside  the  latter  depth 
as  we  proceed  northwards.  In  fact,  the  soundings  already  known 
on  the  sea-border  of  the  Lofoden  and  Yesteraalen  Islands  and  the 
coast  of  Fiiimarken  tend  to  show,  as  stated,  that  the  edge  of  the 
,  JliOfoden  bank  lies  nearer  to  the  shore  further  north*  On  the  coast 
atfiide  the  islands  Langu,  Andii,  and  Senjen,  for  instanoe,  it  will  most 
probably  Ijc  found  15  to  20  miles  from  the  shore,  and  here  the  face 
appears  to  be  sharper  too.  North  of  Senjen  the  edge  seems  to  sheer 
straight  northwards  and  recede  more  rapidly  from  the  shore,  whilst  it* 
declivity  also  seems  to  decrease.  Preliminarily  a  chart  has  l»een  drawn  of 
the  part  of  the  Sea  of  liost  and  Yaerii  sounded  last  summer,  the  scale  being 
1 :  200,000,  which  has  been  reproduced  by  lithography.  The  chart  forms 
an  addendum  to  the  coast-chart  **  Fleina  and  Landhoniet  to  Tranii,"  which 
latter  has  been  revised  and  brought  up  to  date.  It  is  expected  that  next 
autumn  there  will  be  sufficient  material  in  hand  to  issue  a  fishing  chart 
of  that  part  of  the  bank  referred  to  lying  outside  the  Lofoden  Islands. 

Swedes  on  the  CongD*T-According  to  the  Journal  of  the  Swedish 
Geographical  Society,  33  Swedes  have  up  to  the  present  been  employed 
in  the  service  of  the  Congo  State.  Of  these,  ten  died  there  through 
acoidents  or  from  fever,  six  were  compelled  to  return  home  on  account 
of  ill-health,  seven  returned  on  the  expiry  of  their  threo  years'  service, 
whilst  ten  are  stUl  in  Africa. 

2  K  2 


382 


GEOGRAPHICAL  K0TE5. 


Lunda,— Captain  Curvalho,  the  leader  of  the  recent  Portuguese  exiic- 
dition  into  Lunda,  in  a  letter  to  Senhor  L.  Cordeiro,  pnbliBlicd  in  tlio 
*  Boletim '  of  the  Lisbon  Geographical  Society,  gives  some  interesting 
infonnation  on  that  Central  African  empire,  which  supplements  that 
previously  obtained  by  Br.  Pogge,  Dr.  Buchner,  and  others.  Lnnda, 
according  to  him,  is  quite  a  recent  creation,  reaching  hardly  back  to  the 
middle  of  the  last  century.  The  country  on  the  Ealanyi  and  westward 
to  the  Kasai,  the  present  centre  of  the  empire,  was  originally  inhabited 
by  the  Tubungo*  ruled  over  by  numerous  petty  chiefs  (muene-u*ata  or 
muftta)j  the  principal  among  whom  was  the  Tatnko  (father)  Shakala, 
Thia  Shakala  quarelled  with  bis  two  sons,  Kinguri-a-Konda  and  Yala- 
ia-Kouda,  and  with  the  consent  of  the  other  chiefs  appointed  his 
daughter  Lufebi  to  succeed  him.  The  Lukdno,  or  bracelet  of  human 
sinews,  was  consequently  entrusted  to  this  lady,  as  a  B}Tubol  of  her 
sovereign  power,  until  she  should  make  choice  of  a  husband.  One  day 
a  hunter  (Kibunda)  appeared  on  the  Kalanyi,  and  won  the  lady's 
favour.  His  name  was  Ilunga,  and  he  claimed  to  be  the  sou  of  Kasongo 
a  ix>werful  chief  of  Luba,  whose  eldest  son  had  succeeded  to  his  father's 
possessions  (in  Eua)  whilst  a  younger  son,  Kanyoka,  had  established 
himself  to  the  north-east  of  what  subsequently  became  known  as  Lunda. 
When  Kibunda  Iluuga  married  Luezhi  his  elder  brother  sent  him  a 
battle-axe  (ki-uLui-ka),  as  a  legacy  from  bis  father,  and  this  axe  stU! 
forms  one  of  the  royal  emblems  of  the  empire,  Ludzhi's  brothers  left 
the  country  in  disgust,  and  having  aesisted  the  Portuguese  in  their  wars 
against  Jinga  (Matamba)  finally  settled  down  as  chiefs  in  Kasanje  and 
the  Songo  countries,  where  their  desceudeuts  still  reign.*  Kibunda 
Hunga,  at  the  suggestion  of  one  of  the  chiefs,  assumed  the  title  of 
Muatyan-vu-ft,  or,  in  full,  "  Muata-yanvua  man  gaud  a  niawoso  nimitondo 
nimanita  niatuendi  a  kua  Lunda,"  which  means  "  The  Lord  who  owns 
all  the  land,  all  the  rivers  and  all  the  people  of  Lunda,**  Lunda  itself 
lieing  interpreted  to  signify  **  union  "  or  "  unity."  The  royal  household 
i>f  the  Mu^tyan-vu-a  rivals  in  numbers  that  of  any  European  sovereign. 
The  foremost  place  in  it  belongs  to  the  Lukoquesha,  the  **  person  who 
looks  after  the  mu(ityan-TU-a,'*  She  is  the  modem  representa-tive  of 
Luezhi,  is  appointed  by  the  Muata  among  the  members  of  the  royal 
family,  but  cannot  apparently  b©  deposed  by  him.  Her  influence  is 
very  considerable.  The  other  leading  ladies  of  the  oourt  are  the  Muari, 
or  first  wife,  the  Temeinj^o,  or  second  wife,  the  Ngiua  muana,  or  official 
"  mother "  of  the  Muata,  and  the  Ngina  ban^a  or  bis  ofiicial  "  sister/* 

*  It  i&  difficult  to  reconcile  these  native  traditiouB  with  the  Portuguefle  historical 
rtM'ortla.  Wara  agninHt  tb©  TRTioua  mlera  kno^n  as  JiDga  t?cfo  wnged  repeatedly  aince^ 
15110  uiid  Tip  to  1745,  id  wlilch  year  Bartholomew  Duurt©  de  Sequeira.  the  Capitfio  mor, 
captured  the  Jinga'a  cApital.  CaTazzi  alrefldy  incntiona  a  chief,  Cassange  Cun- 
tjuinguri,  who  iRras  born  in  1608  near  Amhuctt,  and  who  niaj  have  been  a  ^od  of  the 
Kingtiji  who  came  out  of  Lunda. 


' 


GEOGBAPBICiX  KOTES. 


Among  the  councillors  (kanapuube)  the  chief  places  are  accorded  to  the 
Muitio  (or  attorney- general),  the  Snana  mulopo  (official  **  brother  "),  the 
Mona  uta  ("  master  of  anus  '*),  and  the  Mmiri  muiBhi  (cook).  The  chiefs 
who  now  rnl©  over  the  Yarious  districtB  of  Lunda  are  stated  to  have 
:goiie  forth  from  the  original  seats  of  the  Tnbungo,  and  claim  kindred 
with  Luc^zhi  or  llunga.  Senhor  CarvaUio  furniBhes  pedigrees  of  njatiy 
of  these  chiefs,  but  we  are  able  to  mention  only  a  few  of  tho  mora 
prominent.  Among  Luezhi's  relatives  were  Kahungiila  of  Mataba; 
Bimgulo  or  Buhungulo,  a  son  of  the  former^  now  represented  by  Kilwata  ; 
Kahungula  ka  Mazai^  another  son,  now  represented  by  Sna-Muteba,  the 
seventh  of  the  line  ;  and  the  Muene  Puto  Kasongo,  on  the  Kuaugo.  The 
raoBt  prominent  among  the  members  of  Ilnnga's  family  was  Ka-Shina 
Mayoj  who  assumed  the  title  of  M&yo  munene,  and  is  now  represented 
by  Ka-Mwanga,  the  seventh  of  the  line*  Bumbo  Attema  took  up  his 
quarters  in  the  Mungo  mountains,  to  the  cast  of  the  Kuanza,  in  lat.  1 1°  8*, 
and  became  the  head  of  the  Makioko  (plural  of  Kioko),  who  have  thence 
spread  to  th©  north  and  to  the  south.  Kinbundo,  Katema,  Eabinda,  and 
others  became  rulers  of  the  Makoza  (a  nickname)  ;  several  Luba  chiefs 
(Mukelenge  mutonbo)  went  to  the  norlh-west ;  others,  including  Living- 
d tone's  Shinde,  were  sent  to  the  south,  whilst  the  Muata  Kazembe  was 
despatched  to  the  east.*  If  Senhor  Carvalho's  information  can  be  trusted, 
only  fourteen  Muatyan-vu-a  have  ruled  since  th©  foundation  of  the 
empire.  The  firat  of  these  was  Kibunda  llunga^  the  husband  of  Luezhi, 
.and  founder  of  the  empire.  To  him  succeeded  five  sons  {Xoezhi,  Unbiila, 
Muteba,  Molazhi,  and  Mukanza.  This  last  was  on  th©  throne  when 
the  Pombeiros  passed  through  the  country  in  1806,  Yanvo,  the  seventh 
ruler,  was  a  son  of  Noezhi.  To  him  succeeded  his  second  son,  Kikomba, 
the  first  son,  Ditenda,  having  died.  Noezhi  II.  was  a  son  of  this 
Ditenda,  and  ruled  when  Gra^a  visited  the  country,  iu  1849.  Molazhi, 
a  son  of  Noezhi  II.,  and  Muteba,  the  youngest  son  of  the  same,  succeeded. 
Muteba  was  a  popular  rulen  He  appointed  Kata,  the  chief  w^ife  of  his 
brother  Molazhi,  to  be  his  LukoquC^zha.  He  ought  to  have  been  suc- 
ceeded by  hia  son  Unbila,  a  favourite  of  the  people,  but  the  Lukoquezha 
intrigued  in  favour  of  her  son  Shanama,  who  rose  in  revolt,  and  was 
eventually  chosen  by  the  tdiiefs,  in  1874.  This  ruler  is  described  as  tho 
"  Terror  of  Lunda."  He  was  murdered,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  sons 
Kibinda  Ditende  and  Kan-ga-pua,  neither  of  whom  ruled  long.  The 
sceptre  was  then  offered  to  Nbala,  a  son  of  Muteba,  but  he  declined  the 
proferred  dignityj  stating  that  Kivunza  YSinvo,  the  brother  of  Shanama, 
At  that  time  (1885)  living  an  exile  near  the  KuangOi  was  the  rightful 
heir.  Eventually  Kivnnza  Ydnvo  was  raised  to  the  throne,  and  it  m 
with  him  that  Senhor  Carvalho  has  concluded  a  treaty  which  places  all 
Lunda  under  the  protection  of  Portngal. 

•  Tho  foorlh  Kttzembe  was  on  the  throne  in  1792  wben  Dr*  Laoerda  visited  tho 
^country,  and  tlie  fifib  (Ampata)  in  1S31, 


884 


GEGGKAPHICAL  NOTES. 


PatagOEia.—Liou tenant  C.  Moyaiio,  who  in  1877  wiUi  M,  F,  Moreno, 
made  a  journey  into  the  south  of  Patagonia,  accomplishcHl  some  time  ago 
anothc^r  excursion  into  the  country  south  of  the  Sauta  Gru2»  the  results 
of  which  he  has  reported  to  the  Argentine  Government,  Tbe  i^artj- 
numbered  thirteen »  and  the  explorations  lasted  about  two  and  a  half 
months.  Lieut.  Mojano  had,  on  his  previous  journey,  visited  Lake 
Argentine  and  ohBorved  in  tho  south-west  of  the  same  an  important  in* 
flux,  which  he  Buppoeed  connected  the  lake  with  a  smaller  lako  basin 
lying  to  the  south.  In  1880  the  Chilian  explorers,  MM.  Ihar  and 
Hogers,  visited  this  small  lake  and  found  it  had  a  discharge  to  the  west 
into  the  Pacific,  but  no  conneetion  with  Lake  Argentine,  In  his  last 
journey,  M.  Moyano  has  been  able  to  confirm  his  previous  observations 
as  to  the  union  of  these  two  lakes.  The  subjoined  details  will  show 
that  this  latest  expedition  into  the  still  imperfectly  known  region  of 
Sonth  Patagonia,  has  rendered  considerable  service  to  geography.  The 
traveller  has  explored  the  sources  of  the  GallegOB  and  Coile  rivers, 
determined  the  geographical  position  of  the  two  large  lakes  which  lie 
in  the  extreme  west  of  the  Ooile  valley*  Besides  ascertaining  the  union 
between  the  two  lakes  referred  to  above,  he^^has  cctllocted  numerous  data 
from  which  it  may  be  concluded  that  all  the  lakes  of  South  Patagonia 
are  connected  with  each  other.  With  regard  to  the  character  of  the 
country,  the  coast  zone  is  covered  with  a  sparse  herbaceous  vegetation 
which  is  suitable  for  rearing  cattle,  sheep,  goats,  &c,,  and  stands  the 
climate  all  tho  year.  Some  small  tracts  in  the  river  valleys  would  be 
suitable  for  agriculture  on  a  small  scale.  The  centre  of  the  country  is 
less  fitted  for  cultivation,  owing  to  the  poverty  of  the  soil  and  to  tho 
severity  of  the  winter,  which  is  increased  by  the  heights  of  these  table- 
lands and  their  distance  from  tho  coast.  The  mountainous  region  on 
the  west  which  begins  with  the  first  span] of  the  Gordillera,  is  distinguishod 
by  dense  and  endless  forests  of  antarctic  beeches  and  by  a  herbaceous 
vegetation  which  satisfies  the  utmost  Memands  of  cattle-breeders.  The 
traveller  found  traces  of  coal  and  iron  in  several  places,  but  unfortu- 
nately very  far  from  the  commercial  routes.  Other  minerals  he  did  not 
meet  with.  The  following  are  the  positions  of  three  mountain  peaks 
which  he  named:— Monte  Andrade,  a  mountain  5808  feet  high, 
situated  in  oC"  o8'  30''  S.,  and  73^  5'  W»  ;  Monte  Guido,  4200  feet, 
in  50^  5'  S.  and  72'*  25'  W,  j  and  Monte  Guerrico,  about  U95  feet, 
in  50^  48'  30"  S.  In  connection  with  this  exploration  we  may 
announce  the  publication  of  Fontana's  map  embodying  the  results  of 
his  expedition  to  the  Chubut  River,*  which  will  cause  much  alteration 
in  existing  maps  of  Patagonia. 

Tierra  del  Fuego. — The    expedition   of    M.    Eamon    Lista,    which 
started    hi   November  last  on   an   exploration   of  Tierra   del  Fuego, 

♦  "Proc.  B,G.S.,*  ISSe,  p.  527. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


386 


returned  to  Buenos  Ayre§  5n  February,  having  been  completely 
BUOceBsfuL  The  current  number  of  Petermann's  *  MitteOungen '  con- 
tains a  letter  from  M.  Riinion  Lista  to  General  B.  Mitre,  in  which  ^*^ 
gives  some  account  of  the  results  of  hiB  journey.  The  Argen- 
tine (Eastern)  part  of  the  island,  which  he  explored  for  440 
miles  from  Sebastian  Bay  to  Le  Maire  Straits,  is  more  fertile 
than  the  Patagonian  coast  zone  bounded  by  the  Chubut  and  Cape 
Yongfrau,  and  has,  in  the  traveller's  opinion,  a  greater  indus- 
trial future  before  it.  The  generally  accepted  reports  as  to  the 
inhospitable,  barren,  and  even  uninhabited  state  of  the  ialand  may,  he 
Bays^  be  true  as  regards  the  western  half  of  the  same,  but  are  certainly' 
false  regarding  the  eastern  or  Argentine  portion.  The  latter  part  of 
Tierra  del  Fuego  may  be  divided  with  reference  to  its  physical  features 
into  two  sections:  (i.)  that  extending  from  Cape  Espiritu  Santo  to 
Cape  Pen  as,  where  the  country  consists  of  valley  a  more  or  less  broad, 
covered  with  moat  excellent  fodder,  and  watered  by  rivers  of  consider- 
able volume,  and  partly  navigable,  which  spring  from  a  enow-covered 
rang©  of  mountains  (Bartholome  Nodal)  in  the  interior.  This 
district  ©njoya  an  agreeable  temperature  ;  the  little  snow  which  falls  in 
winter  soon  molts,  (ii.)  South  of  this  region,  which  may  be  called  thi> 
"meadow  country,"  extend  the  antarctic  forestg.  Here  the  fodder 
vegetation  is  not  so  rich,  and  the  streams  have  leaa  water,  but  th©  land- 
scape has  a  more  beautiful  appearance,  reminding  the  traveller  of 
Switzerland,  with  small  lakes,  high  mountains,  and  enchanting  woods. 
On  the  third  day,  after  leaving  the  south-west  corner  of  Sebastian  Bay, 
th©  party  reached  a  river  flowing  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  where  they 
came  suddenly  upon  some  of  the  natives,  Tbo  latter  were  full  of  mis- 
trust, which,  however,  was  speedily  removed  when  they  heard  the  word 
"  brother."  Thia  form  of  salutation  was  evidently  unaccustomed  to 
them ;  they  are  usually  greeted  with  a  volley  of  musketry  by  the 
Chilian  miners  of  Useless  Bay*  Some  of  the  Indians  approached  the 
traveller  and  commenced  dancing  and  leaping.  Most  of  them  were 
young  men,  tall  and  powerful,  with  their  faces  painted  red ;  a  few  of 
them  had  their  arms  and  hands  coloured  white  with  clay.  All  wore 
their  hair  cut  behind  and  anointed  with  an  unctuous  red  pigment. 
They  wore  no  clothing  except  a  kind  of  cloak  made  of  the  skin  of  th© 
silver  fox,  and  strange  to  say,  this  was  worn  with  the  rough  side  out- 
wards. The  traveller  observed  many  huts  deserted  for  the  moment,  and 
dogs  in  them,  some  with  long  shaggy  hair,  others  dark  coloured.  H© 
desired  to  appropriate  one  of  these  animals,  which  had  the  appearance 
of  a  sheep  dog,  but  an  Indian  interposed  aiid  made  him  understand  that 
the  dog  belonged  to  him,  and  had  been  trained  to  hunt  the  guanacos. 
Besides  his  geographical  studies  th©  traveller  made  numerous  scientific 
observations  during  his  journey  across  th©  island,  more  particularly  of 
an    anthropological  and  geological  character.    His  notes  on  the  land  an 


38G 


OB1T0ART. 


Boa  fauna  are  in  tores  ting.  He  measured  many  of  tho  iiativeSi  and  has 
prepared  a  vocabulary  of  the  language  used  l>y  tlie  nativee  of  the  forest- 
regioQ  between  Capo  Penas  and  Polycarp  Bay.  The  aDimal  kingdom  on 
land  is  represented  by  some  iiiamraalia,  guanacos,  and  foxes  (Oani» 
mageUmdciis)^  the  latter  very  much  prized  on  account  of  itB  beautiful 
skiUi  Among  the  rodents,  which  on  fortunately  are  far  mora  numerous 
than  the  mammals,  may  bo  mentioned  the  Cienomys  '  magellanicitg^  a 
veritable  land-plague,  which  infests  the  northern  part  of  the  island.  Of 
birda,  which  fill  the  woods  and  river  batiks,  the  traveller  mentions  the 
parrot,  duck,  snipe,  plover,  wild  goose,  ibis,  *tc.  He  also  gives  examples 
of  the  sea  fauna. — The  finding  of  gold  on  the  shores  of  the  Straits  of 
Magellan  has  quickened  the  general  interest  in  the  island  of  Tierra  del 
Fuego,  and  an  expedition  under  the  Argentine  governor,  Captain  Taz,  is 
announced  to  start  into  the  interior. 


Doe  Hariano  Felipe  Pa?  Soldan,*  our  Peruvifln  Honorary  Corresponding 
Member,  died  at  Lima  on  tbe  3l8t  of  December,  1886,  ftged  65,  He  was  bora  at 
Arequipa  on  August  22nd,  1821,  of  a  family  of  old  Castilian  deaoent, 
;inii  was  one  of  several  talented  and  acx^omplished  brothers*  .  His  nephew,  who 
writes  under  the  paeutionym  of  **  Juan  de  Arona,**  is  a  poet  of  such  eminence  as  to 
have  been  elected  a  CorreapondiHg  Member  of  the  Kojal  Academy  of  Spain. 
Mariano  Paz  Soldan  was  educated  at  the  College  of  San  Geronlmo  in  Arequipa, 
whence  be  went  to  study  law  at  Lima,  and  nt  an  early  age  he  was  called  to  the 
Peruvian  Bar,  In  1844,  when  still  vei-y  young,  he  received  a  judicial  appointment 
at  Caxamarca  ;  and  bis  attention  was  early  turned  to  the  condition  of  the  prisons, 
and  to  the  best  means  of  ameliorating  the  wretched  fate  of  condemned  persons  in 
Peru.  To  this  pbilanthropic  work  Paz  Soldan  devoted  the  best  years  of  his  life. 
In  1853  be  undertook  a  journey  to  the  United  Slates  with  the  aole  object  of  studying 
the  iTenitentiary  system  in  the  United  States.  It  was  necessary  that  be  should  not 
only  inform  himself  respecting  prison  discipline  and  treatment,  but  also  that  he 
should  become  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the  designs  for  penitentiaries,  and  even 
with  questions  relating  to  building  materials,  and  the  organisation  of  labour.  For 
the  subject  was  new  to  his  countrymen,  ah  ovo  usqne  ad  mala,  Paz  Soldan 
devoted  his  whole  energies  to  this  self-imposed  task,  and  some  of  bis  results  appeared 
iri  bis  ea  dies  t  publication,  *  In  forme  sobre  las  Penitenciarias*  (1854X  Two  years 
afterwards  tbe  building  of  the  penitentiary  at  Lima  was  caramenced  under  his 
supei  intendence.  It  was  completed  in  about  six  years,  on  the  most  improved  princi- 
ples, and  is  a  noble  monument  of  the  patriotism  and  enlightened  perseverance  of 
our  late  Corresfondiug  Member.  Paz  Soldan  afterwards  filled  the  jx)sts  of  Minister 
of  Fubhc  Works  and  of  Education  in  seveml  administrations,  and  was  for  many 
years  the  Director  of  Public  Works  in  Pem*  Several  of  the  most  useful  undertakings 
and  improvements  in  that  country,  during  tbe  last  quarter  of  a  century,  have  been 
due  to  the  energy  and  zeal  of  Mariano  Paz  Soldan, 


By  C.  R.  Bfarkham,  c.B.,  rR,8.,  Secretary. 


OBITtTARY. 


387 


In  the  midst  of  his  active  public  life,  oar  Correspooding  Member  devoted  much 
time  to  ihe  elucidation  of  the  geograpli y  of  his  native  country.  Geographical  studies, 
and  the  gradual  collection  of  a  valuable  library,  were  the  occupations  of  his  leisure. 
Yet  be  deroted  much  time  to  our  science,  with  valuable  reaults.  Hia  first  geo- 
grapbical  work  was  the  *  Geogralia  del  Peru,'  completed  in  1861,  of  which  the 
physical  sections  were  written  by  hia  brother  Mateo ;  and  this  was  followed  by  the 
Femvian  Atlas,  a  work  which  involved  immense  labour  aod  research,  and  called  for 
great  tact  and  iierseverance  in  its  execution,  Senor  Paz  Soldan  made  ii  special 
journey  to  Paris  to  arrange  for  the  engravitig  and  publication.  But  his  most  impor- 
tant geographical  work  was  the  Geographical  and  Statistical  Dictionary  of  Pera, 
which  was  completed  iu  1877.  It  is  due  to  the  present  Admiral  I>oa  AiireUo  Garcia 
J  (xarcia,  that  tlie  int4?rest  he  has  always  shown  In  the  promotion  of  geographical 
work  should  here  be  recorded.  When  ho  was  Minister  in  1875,  he  spontaneousily 
gave  orders  that  the  dictionary  of  Paz  Soldan  should  be  prioted  at  the  eipeose  of 
the  Peruvian  Government.  These  works  of  Paz  Soldan,  presented  by  the  author, 
are  now  in  the  Society's  Library,  aud  are  indispensable  to  students  of  South  American 
gecgraphy. 

Don  Mariano  Paz  Soldan  was  president  of  the  Commission  for  demarcating  the 
boundaries  of  Peru.  In  1879  he  originated,  and  his  son  Boa  Carlos  became  the 
-editor,  of  a  literary  periodical  called  the  JltmBia  peruana.  Mainly  consisting  of 
essays  on  historical,  antiquarian,  and  philological  subjects,  some  of  them  of  great 
value,  tt  abo  contained  original  geographical  information.  The  deplorable  war  with 
Chile  brought  the  literary  iaboura  of  its  contributors  to  a  close.  Many  of  them 
ionght,  and  some  fell  in  defence  of  their  country. 

The  last  years  of  Mariano  Paz  Soldan  were  clouded  by  the  misfortunes  of  hia 
beloved  fatlierland.  The  Chilians  occupied  the  capital  of  Peru,  and  these  conquerors 
behaved  in  a  way  which,  fortunately,  is  without  a  precedent  among  civilised  nations 
4Uid  in  modem  times.  The  building  of  San  Marcos,  the  most  ancient  university  in 
the  new  world,  was  converted  into  cavalry  stables.  The  public  library  was  used 
p4U  a  barrack,  and  its  priceless  treasures  were  thrown  Into  the  streets  or  sold  as  waste 
paper.  The  persecution  of  all  distinguished  Peruvians  was  rigorous  and  unceasing 
during  the  occupation.  Many  old  and  respected  civilians  were  seized  and  sent 
prisoners  into  the  south  of  Chile.  Paa  Soldan  took  refuge  in  Buenos  Ay  res,  where 
the  illustrious  entile  was  received  not  only  with  respect,  but  with  the  most  cordial 
hospitality.  The  University  appointed  him  to  a  professorship,  and  he  endeavoured 
to  requite  the  kindness  of  his  generous  and  uympathising  hosts  by  working  at  a 
geographical  dictionary  of  the  Argentine  Republic.  He  also  wrote  his  history  of 
the  war  with  Chile,  during  the  period  of  his  eadle.  The  return  of  our  Corres|)onding 
Member  to  his  ruined  fatherland  was  clouded  ,with  sadness.  He  saw  much  of  the 
work  of  a  lifetime  destroyed  by  the  desolating  war,  and  he  could  not  hope  that  he 
would  be  spared  to  aid  in  the  labour  of  reparation.  He  may  truly  be  said  to  have 
<lied  of  a  broken  heart. 

Paz  Soldan  was  the  John  Howard  of  Peru.  He  was  a  man  of  broad  views  and 
enlightened  sympatMes.  As  a  statesman  he  originated  and  matured  nomerous 
useful  measures,  both  in  tbe  departments  of  education  and  of  public  works.  As  a 
^eogmpber  he  was  indefatigable,  and  enthuBiastlc.  He  was  a  good  linguist  and  an 
able  scholar.  In  these  respects  his  accomplished  son,  Don  Carlos  Paz  Soldan,  h 
/ollowing  in  his  respected  father^s  footsteps* 


{    388     ) 

REPOET  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS,  SESSION  1886^7, 

Mevenih  Me^tingy  May  \\th,  1887. — F.  GaltoNj  esq.,  f.r.s,,  Vice- 
President,  in  the  Chair. 

Elections, — Louis  Adh3\  Esq, ;  TAos.  Morris  A$h^  E$q, ;  MtlvUl  Beachcmfi^ 
E$q, ;  T,  J,  Beard  ^  Esq. ;  Joseph  GUI,  Esq, ;  John  GUlespis,  Esq. ;  liev.  J  no,  Oxley 
Oxland;  Alfred  Eadfordt  Esq,;  Eenry  R^yndd\  Esq,;  ItolH^rt  Davits  Iioberts, 
Esq, ;  Willium  Wariy,  Esq, ;  Bev,  O,  K  Wndhorne, 

Tbe  paper  read  was  :^ 

**  Explorations  in  Ceatral  Africa.**    By  Dr.  Junker* 

Will  be  publifilied,  with  map,  in  the  July  Namber  of  the  '  Proceedings.' 


PEOCEEDINGS  OF  FOEEIGN  SOCIETIES. 

GeograpMefd  Society  of  Paris,  April  1st,  1887 :  M.  Jannsek,  of  the  Insti- 
tutej  in  the  Chair. — Among  the  works  presented  at  the  meeting  were  the  following*: 
^-'La  FroDliire  8mo-atinamite^'  by  M.  G*  Deveria,  contaioing  some  interesting 
geographical  and  ethnographical  information,  and  a  work  entitM  *  La  Tunisie,*  by 
M.  J.  L,  de  Lauessan,  embodying  the  resolts  of  personal  observations,  M.  Costenoble 
a  publisher  of  Leipaig,  forwarded  the  Gennftn  edition  of  an  important  work  by 
Dr.  A*  Voeikofp  the  eminent  Rnssian  professor,  entitled  *Die  Klimate  dor  Erde,* 
which  was  published  in  1884  in  the  Russian  language.  The  first  volume  of  this 
work  treats  of  the  general  conditions  which  influence  climates,  and  the  second  volume 
deals  with  the  different  climates  of  the  globe.  Among  the  chapters  of  special 
interest  we  note  one  on  river  and  lake  systems  and  their  dependence  on  the  rains 
and  snow,  two  chapters  devoted  to  the  consideration  of  snow  and  ice,  another  on  the 
question  of  surface  temperatures,  and  the  final  chapters  of  the  first  jmrt  which  treat 
in  a  general  way  of  the  distribution  of  heat,  atmosphenc  pressure,  and  rain  over  the 
earth's  surface.  Excellent  maps  and  diagrams  acxsompany  this  valuable  book. — 
A  long  manuscript  was  received  from  M.  A,  du  Paty  de  Clam  on  the  Basin  of 
Central  Tunis  in  ancient  times;  it  was  stated  that  this  paper  would  be  inserted 
in  the  Quarteriy  Bulletin. — M.  H*  Duveyrier  sent  a  letter  relative  to  a  passage 
in  his  report  laat  year  on  the  journey  of  MM.  Capello  and  Ivens,  in  which  he 
discussed  the  important  difference  in  the  position  of  the  cataract  of  Mambirima 
as  given  by  these  travellers  and  by  M.  Giraud.  The  letter  concluded  with  the 
statement  that  the  explorer  who  should  fix  definitely  the  position  of  the  south- 
west point  of  Lalce  Bemba  aod  survey  the  first  100  miles  of  the  course  of  the 
Luapula  would  render  a  real  service  to  geography »^ — The  Secretary  read  a  letter  from 
M,  Frederick  Schwatka  to  M.  W.  Huber,  which  was  dated  9th  March,  1887,  from 
Rock  Island.  The  writer  promisixl  to  send  the  Society  one  of  the  first  copies  of  the 
report  on  hia  second  journey  to  Alaska,  which  would  lie  ready  in  about  a  month. 
He  mentions  several  inaccuracies  in  existing  maps  of  Alaska ;  not  one  of  them  shows 
the  Grandidier  glacier. — The  Minister  of  Public  Instruction  forwarded  a  letter  from 
M,  A.  Thenar,  dated  15th  January,  1887,  from  Lagunillos  on  the  frontier  of  the 
Bolivian  Chaco.  The  march  from  Padilla  to  Lagunillas  had  been  attended  with  great 
hardiihipB,  owing  to  violent  storms  and  the  ronghess  of  the  paths,  where  such  indeed 
existed.  Notwithstandtng  some  sickness  the  slaflf  of  the  expedition  remained  intact. 
M,  Thenar  intended  to  start  from  Lagunillas  on  the  following  day  with  provisions 
for  three  months. — The  Chairman  announced  that  the  Academy  of  Sciencca  had  just 
voted  the  sum  of  40/.  to  M,  Virlet  d*Aofist,  one  of  the  oldest  members  of  the  Society, 


■ 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


889 


to  enable  him  to  continiio  his  reaearcliea  oa  the  causes  of  cartliqiiakes.^Tlie  General 
Secretary  called  the  attention  of  the  meeting  to  &  large  wall-map  of  Brazil,  exhibited 
in  the  hall,  which  had  been  prepared  by  M*  E,  Levasseur,  of  the  luBtitute.  Thidi 
important  map  had  taken  three  years  to  execute,  and  waa  practically  a  map  of  South 
America.  It  waa  prepared  on  the  scale  of  1 :  BflOOfiOO  and  contained  all  the  latest 
information.— ^M.  Ch,  Kabot  announced  to  the  Society  the  departure  of  M.  Nossiloft', 
the  Russian  natumlistp  on  a  new  expedition  to  Nova  Zembla,  and  stated  the  objectti 
of  the  mission.  He  further  made  a  comuiuni cation  on  the  subject  recently  Ijefore  the 
Society,  of  the  transport  of  matter  by  icebergs.  Ho  supported  the  opinion  of 
M.  Thonlet  that  the  banks  off  Newfoundland  were  not  formed  by  the  deposits  from 
icel)crga.  He  referred  to  the  results  of  hiA  own  observationa  in  Spitzbergen  in  1882, 
when  he  had  occasion  to  study  the  ice  in  the  fiord  s.^ — M.  Dutreuil  du  Rhins  then 
read  a  paper  *  by  M,  Gouin,  French  resident  at  Son-tay,  on  the  Upper  Red  river 
and  its  two  affluents  the  Black  and  the  Clear  rivers.  M,  Baudens,  who  travelled  in 
the  country  in  1885-6,  then  made  some  remarks  with  reference  to  the  course  of  the 
Black  river,  which  according  to  M.  Gouin,  has  a  northerly  direction ,  M.  Baudens' 
survey  shows  it  as  flowing  west  or  north-west.  Some  discussion  followed  upon  thia 
point.  M.  Baudens  gave  further  some  interesting  notes  on  the  navigation  of  these 
rivers  and  the  physical  features  and  present  state  of  Tongking. — Mt  Gauthiot, 
General  Secretary,  announced  that  the  Commercial  Geographical  Society  of  P&ris  had 
jnst  awarded  its  chief  medal  to  M.  OouiB  in  recognition  of  his  valuable  work  in 
Tongking. 

April  15th,  1887  :  M,  Febdixaxo  de  Lesskps,  President  of  the  Society 

in  the  Chair,  This  w^as  the  first  General  Meeting  of  the  year.  The  Chairman 
said  he  would,  on  the  present  occasion^  dispense  with  the  usual  opening  speech  from 
the  Chair,  as  there  was  so  much  business  to  be  got  through ;  he  would  therefore  at 
once  call  on  M.  E.  Cbtteau,  scrutineer,  to  announce  the  result  of  the  election  for  the 
Bureau  of  the  Society  for  1887-8,  This  was  stated  to  be  as  follows :— Prcsiilent, 
M.  Ferdinand  de  Lesseps ;  Vice-Presidents,  Geneml  Perrier  and  M.  Bouquet 
de  la  Gryej  Scrutineers^  M,  J.  Renaud,  and  M,  G,  Demanche;  Secretary,  Dr. 
Henri  Labonne,  M.  W.  Huber  then  read,  on  behalf  of  the  commission  on  the 
prizes,  the  general  report  upon  the  awards.  The  reading  of  the  special  reports 
upon  the  latter  followed,  —  After  M,  W,  Huber  had  given  a  resume  of  his 
rejxirt  upon  M,  Rouvier*a  explomtions  on  the  Congo,  the  Chairman  presented 
to  the  representative  of  the  Minister  of  the  Navy,  on  behalf  of  M,  Rouvier, 
the  gold  medal  which  hail  been  awarded  to  the  latter,  and  in  doing  so  alluded 
to  the  great  value  of  the  astronomical  determinations  made  by  the  traveller  of 
points  on  the  Congo,  thereby  completing  the  information  given  by  previous 
explorers,  A  resume  of  M,  F.  Schrader's  report  upon  Dr.  H*  Fritsche-a  travels  in 
the  north  of  China  having  been  read,  M.  do  Lesseps  remarked  ui»on  the  fact  that 
the  traveller's  work  was  purely  scientific,  and  therefore  perhaps  loss  known,  but  not 
less  valuable;  the  gold  medal,  he  said, would  be  transmitted  to  Dr*  Fritsche  through 
the  Bussian  ambassador.  The  third  presentation  was  to  M,  J*  Martin  for  his 
journeys  in  Eastern  Siberia,  uim)u  which  M.  W.  Huber  reported.  The  Chairman  in 
handing  the  gold  metlai  to  M,  Martin,  referred  briefly  to  the  important  l>earing  of 
his  work  on  the  geography  of  the  country  between  the  basin  of  the  Lena  and  that  of 
the  Amor*  M,  A,  Grandidier,  then  rmd  a  resume  of  his  report  on  M.  A.  Aubry*;* 
journey  in  Shoo.  The  traveller  was  not  present  at  the  meeting,  but  M,  de  Lessep:^ 
took  occasion  to  remind  the  Society  of  the  value  of  M,  Aubry^s  work  in  C4jnnection 
with  the  geology  and  geography  of  that  part  of  Africa  during  his  three  years*  mission 


*  This  paper  will  bo  injierted  in  the  Quarterly  Bulletin. 


39a 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


there.  Gointe  H.  ie  Bozemont  then  read  an  abstract  of  his  report  on  Major  Greely*s 
expedition  to  the  Polar  Eegioas^  whereupon  tha  Cbainnaii  handed  the  gold  medal 
(La  Roquette  Prize)  to  M.  Vipjnaud,  Chief  Secretary  of  the  United  Sutes  Legation, 
adding  that  the  Society  desired  thereby  to  express  it«  sense  of  the  value,  not  only  of 
the  discovery  of  naw  territory,  but  of  the  scientific  observations  made  at  Fort  Conger 
during  more  than  one  year,  in  the  highest  latitude  in  which  such  obserifationa 
had  ever  been  recorded*  The  Chairman  then  prt^sented  to  M.  A.  Germain,  on  behalf 
of  M.  A,  Grcnier,  the  gold  medal  awarded  to  the  latter  for  his  cartographical  works, 
and  finally  handed  to  M.  C.  Forel  the  Jomard  Prize  for  his  biography  of  the 
French  traveller,  Tavernier.— In  conclusion,  M.  Joseph  Martin  read  an  account  of 
his  travels  in  Eastern  Siberia. 

Geographical  Society  of  Berlin,  April  2nd,  1887 ;  Herr  W.  Eeiss  in  the 
Chttir,^ — A  letter  was  read  from  Lieutenant  Wissmann,  written  from  Luluaburg,  in 
which  he  reported  that  he  had,  in  July  1886,accompliiihed  a  journey  from  Luluaburg 
to  the  Buahimaji,  the  most  westerly  of  the  three  river  sources  of  the  Saukura,  and 
had  penetrated  into  the  centre  of  the  land  of  the  Baluba  people.  West  of  the 
Lukulla  and  of  Ten  da  Mota,  the  character  of  the  country  changes  completely ;  here 
the  true  Baluba  ia  met  with.  The  "  gallery  woods  "  along  the  rivera  and  streams 
disappear  altogether.  The  grass  prairie  reigns  supreme,  only  on  the  summits  of  the 
steep  watershed  are  a  few  isolated  trees  to  bo  seen.  Here  and  there  large  stony 
plains  are  met  with,  and  hills  covered  with  rolled  granite,  from  which  an  extensive 
view  may  be  obtained — a  rare  experience  in  Africa.  The  natives  dwell  in  farms 
composed  of  from  four  to  ten  huts  in  the  middle  of  their  fields.  They  are  a  fine 
race,  nearly  all  of  them  are  six  feet  high,  and  large-boned.  The  iKjpulation  is 
exceptionally  dense,  nothing  but  fields  and  farms  everywhere.  As  regards  its  pro- 
ductive capacity,  the  country  is  much  too  thickly  peopled,  and  nowhere  in  Africa 
had  M,  Wissmann  seen  such  a  swarm  of  human  beings.  The  land  is  too  poor  for 
the  cultivation  of  tropical  products*  Game  naturally  cannot  exist  in  such  a  thickly 
peopled  locality.  Of  domestic  animals,  the  traveller  saw  sheep,  goat^,  dogs,  and 
fowlsj  but  no  pigs.  ITie  nights  were  very  cold,  the  minimum  temperature  recorded 
being  6*^  to  7*^  C.  The  bearing  of  the  natives  was  insolent  in  the  extreme.  They 
know  how  to  use  firearms,  which  they  have  obtained  from  the  Bihe  traders  in 
exchange  for  slaves,  and  they  attempted  to  stop  the  advance  of  the  expedition.  In 
Bushimaji,  hostilities  broke  out  in  earuest  This  circumstance,  coupled  with  the 
fact  that  the  time  which  the  traveller  had  allowed  for  this  excursion  Jiad  nearly 
elapsed,  induced  him  to  return  to  Luluahurg,  after  he  had  had  one  skirmish  with  the 
natives.  From  this  point,  he  started  in  October  on  a  new  expedition  to  the  north- 
east, with  the  intention  of  crossing  the  Sankuru  and  Lukenje,  then,  travelling  along 
the  watershed  which  divides  the  small  tributaries  of  the  right  hank  of  the  Sankuni 
from  those  of  the  Congo  coming  from  the  south,  he  will  endeavour,  by  keeping  to 
the  east,  to  strike  the  Upper  Congo  in  the  vicinity  of  Nyangwe.  He  expects  to  find 
in  this  very  little  known  diatrict  a  series  of  lakes  similar  to  Lake  Leopold.  With 
regaid  to  the  Baluba  people,  Wissmann  has  come  to  the  conclusion,  that  all  the 
branches  of  the  race,  even  the  most  strongly  mixed,  prefer  to  call  themselves  pure 
Balubas.  They  exhibit  a  coutemptuoui  r^ard  for  their  neighbours.  The  pure 
Biiluba  live  on  the  Upper  Lubilajsh,  The  Bashilangc  and  Bakete,  who  inhabit 
the  country  to  the  west  of  these  as  far  as  the  Kaasai  and  Lulua,  are,  in 
^Mssmann's  opinion,  a  mixture  of  tha  Baluba  from  the  east,  and  an  aboriginal 
race  who  resemble  the  Batua,  and  apparently  called  themselves  Bashitange. 
The  traditions  of  the  present  Bashilange  point  to  an  immigration  hither  from 
the  south-east.     In    consequence  of  mingling  with  the  aborigines  of  the  land 


FMCiiaaAms  of  fgbks  »rnnR  391 


tKej  Imre  6ssEaaxitti  wwa^r  dam  ibe  pov  Bulski  txpe*  ah^cndi  tknr 
stOl  speak  t&e  BiIbL^  iKBrnee.  is  ihm  tecisxy,  t^  MMmcd  rdbkm  of  Uk 
ori^malBatBa  se  awiiiae  to  W  feoid^as  beck  mam  Iiiiimi  ^ofn^stfj  aixed. 
In  tiiB  reipect,  &ie  Bm£ji%«  iaSet  fivn  taie  tnbes  iirng  to  tbe  wxlb,  nek  at  Um 
»^V"^-,  F— HLi,  Wax^oBA,  aBoai^  vkocL  traces  of  the  Batata  exisi,  becasK  tbaR 
tnbea bai«  alvm  oaiji^Bd  ^ke  Bataa.  aad  keep  r'niiiaNii  *o  ae{«nte  tbu  titer 
aerer  eater  one  of  tz/Kj  basa.  Afioorosz  to  TwiUfiiin  WsaBaaaoi,  tke  Baiaba 
appear  to  exttsad  mhem  iht  aoBBb-vcrt  flboe  of  Lake  TaagaBjika.  aad  also  to 
Uraa  and  the  Hoa^  Ltlkt,  Ike  nfitag  familT  of  die  MaaSa  YamTO  i&  tke  ooaatrr 
of  Lnada  if  a2a>  of  Banska  csigiB. 

Dr.  F.  SjULAax,  <f  Bade,  tkea  ^ire  a  tvt  oear  and  aagjertita  sketck  of  Um 
geaenl  geogiaffecaLfyfrlnrMof  tkeaiaadof  OeTka,  Daria^  kia  ttaj  of  tao  ad  a 
ikalf  Tears  in  tke  2&aac,  Sor  tke  fwapuae  of  makaag  amkigBcal  aad  aaiskiopokgical 
obaerTat>:tts,  be,  ia  oci&paiiT  aitk  bia  eoaaa,  Hecr  P.  Saraca,  nade  aine  excanaaas 
ca  foot  in  dlfleteot  &ecagpf  fpcaa  tbe  cealre  of  tke  idaad.  Tbe  greater  part  of  tke 
iriasd  if  a  plaza,  cleiaieii  bet  little  abow  tke  aa  kill ;  oal j  in  tiie  an^tliefa  part  a 
Taat  aHraatazn  gjoa|]^  eocipcaBd  cf  cneiB  and  gianitp,  aad  cioa  aad  witkrazsadpeakiy 
riaea  ap  like  a  j;Sg*j*tjy  vaUyaDd  ^lidei  tke  ^^«*^^  aa  fivas  itaciiaiate  it  oaBoemad, 
into  t«t>part»--4kea^eit  and  aoBtk-veatbaaad, the noftk and eaitdnr.  Tkeaaatem 
half  paytirrpatea  in  both  the  sMaaoca  niai^  vkile  the  aorfk  laitfia  part,  dmii^  the 
aoath-weat  mooaocQ,  viich  issndatea  the  aocdh-aeateni  lepoa  and  the  nKamtaina 
with  nin,  expeneaccf  ahncat  eaatznaallT  a  dear  dqr  and  great  diongbL  In  eoose- 
cpeaoe  of  theae  ecEkditkos  the  vhde  of  the  aocth-aactcni  half  of  tlK  idand  ia  thickl  J 
popalated  and  coltnnatad,  ahcnndmg  vith  eooo  pafana  ad  rirr  frldt ,  wki^  eztead 
in  the  fana  of  teracea,  fig  ap  the  lanaatain  akyea,  Ike  higher  paita  of  die  moan- 
tains  aeie.  antQ  within  oompamOTclT  leeent  times,  dotiied  with  the  mcs;  loxaiiaat 
tropical  faeats ;  bat  aiaoe  it  was  foaad  thirtj  jean  ago  that  cofiee  thiires  here  in  a 
1  finally  able  aianner,  the  printeral  faeats  bare  crerjwhere  disappmrpd,  and  the 
***^-**^  liriag  in  them  faaTe  beea  didodged,  ao  that  at  the  preaeat  time  it  is  obIt  in 
steep  mines,  and  on  the  heights  between  5000  and  7000  feet,  vheie  the  oold  slonns 
pteieat  the  cnhiTation  of  cofiee,  aad  tke  Gorenmient  has  protected  a  portion  of  the 
forestsfromdestrnctioDythat  aanallpaitof  theTirginwood8renam&  Ihesegkomy 
grej-green  woods  are  tctt  diSierent  from  thoae  of  the  low  plains.  The  txaea  are 
ooiered  with  long  white  lichens  and  gold4irown  moas.  Magnifioent  rhododendiODS 
and  tree-fernf ,  20-30  feet  high,  form  the  diief  adornment  of  theae  high  monntain 
forests.  For  the  rest,  tbe  whole  mocntadn  range  was  oorered  with  coffee  j^antatioDS 
imtil  the  year  1870,  when  ther  were  mifortnnatdy  infected  with  a  fongns.  This  is 
tbe  reaaon  that  to-day  nearlj  all  the  coffee  plaiitationii  baxe  Tanished.  and  in  their 
pboe  pbntatiotis  of  tea  and  cocoa  bav«  ^imng  up.  These,  howerer,  arp  not  ao  pro- 
fiuble,  and,  moreoTer,  hare  already  began  to  be  visited  by  disease.  Thus  G^yka 
will  not  in  the  near  fntoie  be  so  prosperous  as  in  earlier  days.  The  broad  plains  of 
the  dry  portion  c^  the  island  are  oorered  with  endless  leafy  woods,  the  trees  of  wbidi, 
as  regards  their  exterior,  are  rery  similar  to  thoae  of  a  European  wood,  with  the  ex- 
ception ci  the  leares,  which  are  hard  and  wanting  in  saccnlent  Teitlaie.  Scattend 
freely  abont  are  trees  stiange  in  appearance  to  European  eyes,  such  as  the  Fkms 
indiod,  oi  which  eren  a  small  wood  often  fnrmshes  a  specimen.  On  the  t^"k«  of 
the  riTers  are  foand  gigantic  trees  from  25  to  60  feet  in  circomference,  entwined  with 
climUng  plants.  The  greater  the  distance  from  the  riTers  the  sfarser  the  vegetation, 
and  in  the  rery  dry  district  of  the  north,  where  no  rain  ialls  for  seven  months,  one 
finds  only  lowbrashwood  and  prickly  eophor^nas,  in  form  like  diandeliefs.  Thefotast 
districts  arc  now  aknost  nninhabited,  especiaUy  in  the  sonth-^ast,  wbeteas  formerly 
they  were  in  parts  thickly  peopled.    In  the  northern  districts  the  traveller  maete  with 


892 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PtJBLICATIOXS. 


extensive  mias ;  large  towns  witli  temples  and  jialaces  are  to-day  orergrowm  with 
forests.  The  answer  to  the  question,  liow  was  it  possihle  for  these  dry  regions  to 
have  boen  bo  densely  populated,  is  to  be  found  in  the  remains  of  the  gigjaotic  water 
reservoirs,  which,  the  Cingalese  kings  constnicted  for  the  cultivation  of  rioe-fields. 
Some  of  these  reaer^oira  date  hack  from  the  first  centuries  of  our  era.  When  the 
Cingalese  people  retreated  southwards  before  the  invasions  of  the  south  Indian  races, 
these  immense  works  fell  into  decay  and  became  the  home  of  the  crocodile.  The 
attempts  of  the  Eoglish  Govemmeot  to  encourage  rice  culture  by  utilising  the  old 
reservoirs^  and  to  make  Oeylon  aa  regards  its  supply  of  rice  indei.>endent  of  lodia, 
have  up  to  the  present  time  been  attended  with  hut  little  suceeas.  Instead  of  human 
beings  the  jinimal  world  has  taken  jiossession  of  these  vast  solitudes.  The  elephant, 
the  wild  buffalo,  the  wild  boar,  the  bear,  and  great  troops  of  monkeys  people  in 
immense  numbers  this  region.  Although  in  the  large  towns  such  as  Kandy, 
Colombo,  &c.f  the  population  is  very  mixed,  in  the  country  districts  it  is  strongly 
divided.  ICorth  and  east  of  the  great  foreab-belt  the  Tamils  live,  west  and  south  of 
the  same  the  Cingalese,  while  in  Oie  woods  themselves  dwell  the  aboriginal  in- 
habitants, the  Veddfls.  AVestof  the  forest  country  we  find  the  Buddhist  religion 
find  civilisation,  and  the  Aryan  language,  w4ule  t^  the  east  the  Bmhman  religion  and 
Dnividian  language  provaiL  In  this  connectioa  the  analogy  with  India  is  strikiog. 
For  there  also  we  find  in  Hindustan  for  the  mofit  part  an  Aryan  territory,  and  in  the 
Deocan  a  Dravidian,  divided  by  the  broad  wooded  mountain  chain  which  runs  from 
the  Gulf  of  Cambay  to  the  east.  The  Cingalese  inhabit  mostly  the  fertile  districts 
of  Colombo.  The  Tamils  have  their  centre  on  the  island  of  FaflTua  to  the  north  of 
OeyloUi  and  from  that  pioint  extend  along  the  east  coast  and  the  northern  part  of  the 
west  coast.  On  these  dismal  sandy  coasts  they  are  very  scattered.  The  pure 
Veddas  now  scarcely  number  20O0,  and  disease  is  rapidly  thinning  tlieir  ranks,  so 
that  in  GO  to  100  years  not  a  single  pure  example  of  this  worthy  race  will  in  all 
probability  exist.  They  have  recently  been  settled  by  the  Government  in  small 
colonies,  and  can  hardly  now  be  called  "  Kock  Veddas."  Until  quite  recently,  how- 
ever, they  lived  in  hollows  of  the  rocks ;  the  chase  was  their  only  occupation,  and 
leaves  their  only  clothing.  They  had  not  even  learnt  to  use  stone  for  pointing  their 
arrows.  They  hunted  chiefly  monkeys  and  devoted  themselves  to  fishing.  They 
are  very  low  in  the  scale  of  civilisation  and  have  hardly  any  wants.  Their  appear- 
ance compares  in  a  remarkable  manner  with  that  of  the  Australian  negroes. 


NEW  GEOaHAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 

(By  J.  BcoTT  Eeltib,  Lihrartan  b*o,s.) 
EUEOPE, 

ConiLelli  Bobert. — St.  Kilda  and  the  St.  Kildians.  London,  Hamilton,  Adams  & 
Co. ;  Glasgow,  T,  D,  Morison,  1887  :  sm,  8vo.,  pp.  170.  Price  2a  6^.  [Presented 
by  Mr,  T.  D.  Morison.] 

Consists  of  a  series  of  articles  which  originally  appeared  in  the  Glasgow 
HerahL  The  author  gives  a  general  idea  of  the  present  condition  of  things  in 
St.  Kilda,  which  appar  to  have  very  little  changed  since  the  time  when  Martin 
visited  it,  nearly  200  years  ago. 

ASIA. 
[Smitllf  AgEeflO— Tliroiigh  Cyprus.    liondon^  Hurst  and  Blackett,  1887 :  8vo., 
pp.  ix.  and  351,  map  and  il lustrations.    Price  15*.   [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 
Contains  an  account  of  a  tour  round  the  coast  of  Cyprus  by  two  English 


SXW  GSOGRirmCAL  PCBUCJLTlOiSSw  S^ 

lacks.  Amrcz:  ibe  piaoes  Tisatad  are  Lar&aca*  Fjnui^ccsta,  Tnlc^ovx  Krtbenit, 
XiDoaa,  Krirnia,  ligfkm^  xht  Meaasaeries  cf  Kt&o  and  Chnr^iiv^riaatfisa, 
FwpktM  mna  UaoasaoL  IlieR  it  aa  aoocnat  of  t^  hisswr  of  Uiei^asii^  abo  of 
itapRidiKis.    Tiie  ajjfKs^dix  ooBtaiDa  diacBSBkKis  OQ  tbe  dii^^ 

TcHfle,  LJSirj  SiAard  IBftrU-^oamils  kept  in  HT^enbid,  Kasbmir,  Sikkini, 
and  XepiL  Edited  with  IntrcdckcikB  br  his  son,  Biduiid  OuriEac  Temixle.  1U|:« 
a&d  CnstzatkcsL  Loodoo,  Alkn  &  Ce^  1SP7 :  2  xxsk.  ^ra ;  t\>L  L  pjw  xxviu 
aDd  314 ;  toL  iL  pfv.  Ht.]  and  303^    ftiw  32*.    rPrtsented  by  the  poblishersw] 

Tbe  niic>3s  of  these  Tohxmes  «cs3sts  of  joomals  kept  by  Sir  Kichaiu  Temple 
wiiik  Besadeoi  at  Hyderabad  in  1867,  and  during  excursaoos  whidi  he  made 
into  Kas^.Tnrr,  Skkim.  and  Nepal  at  xanous  penod&  To  these  Captain  Temple 
has  wzitten  elabcvate  and  instzuctiTe  introdoetioDs  ocotaining,  amoi^:st  other 
thinzs,  ixsefnl  sammaiies  of  the  geogn^y  of  the  Tahoos  le^ons  with  whidi 
the  TolTimes  are  ooncefned.  There  is  a  good  sopply  of  maps,  and  the  illnstia- 
tiocs  ir^od  Sir  Hichani*s  own  sketches  fiinn  an  attractive  feature. 


AFRICA. 

[CcBtnl  AfrieaJ — A  Jaorney  to  Lake  Xyassa,  and  Visit  to  the  Magwangwara  and 
the  Sooroe  of  the  RoTnma,  in  the  year  18S6,  by  the  Bishop  of  the  Univo^ties^ 
IGssoQ  to  Central  Africa.  Zanubv,  Printed  at  the  UniTcrsities*  Mission  Press» 
Kinngani,  8tq^  pp.  49. 

[Be  Brasa.] — ^Texte  Public  et  Cooidonn^  par  Xapol^on  Xey.  Conferences  et 
Lettres  de  P.  SaTorgnan  de  BrazB^  snr  ses  Trois  Explorations  dans  LXHicst 
Afhcain,  de  1875  i  1SS6.  Paris,  Dreyibos,  1887  :  8to.,  pp.  ii.  and  463*  Price 
lOfirancs.    (2>«^«.) 

This  is  a  coUection  of  the  rarions  addresses  which  from  time  to  time  have 
been  deliTcred  by  M.  de  Brazza,  and  of  the  letters  which  he  sent  home  daring 
the  omrse  of  his  ten  years'  explorations  in  the  region  of  the  Congo  and  Ogow^. 
The  Tolame  will  be  useful  as  giving  in  a  handy  form  details  oonoeming 
De  Brazza's  work,  the  letters  especially  being  of  value,  as  conveying  observa- 
tions and  impressions  while  still  fresh.  The  editors  seem  to  have  done  their 
work  jndidoasly ;  there  are  numerous  illustrations  and  several  maps.  M.  l)e 
Brazza*s  own  narrative  will,  we  are  informed,  soon  be  begun  in  the  *  Tour  du 
Monde,'  and  will  ultimately  be  published  in  three  large  volumes  by  Hachette 
&  Co. 

AMERICA. 

Chamay,  Ddsir^. — ^The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World ;  bdng  Travels  and  Ex- 
plorations in  Mexico  and  Central  America,  1857-82.  Translated  from  the  French 
by  J.  Gonino  and  Helen  S.  Conant.  London,  Chapman  and  Hall,  18S7 :  royal 
8vo.,  pp.  xxxii.  and  514.    Price  31s.  6d,    [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

M.  Chamay  gives  here  thb  results  of  his  many  years'  explorations  among  the 
abundant  remains  of  the  ancient  civilisations  of  Central  America.  The  volume, 
moreover,  includes  many  sketches  of  the  modem  aspects  of  town  and  country  iu 
these  regions,  and  whatever  opinion  may  be  formed  of  the  value  of  the  text,  the 
numerous  illustrations  of  the  remains  explored  by  M.  Chamay  will  be  welcome. 
M.  Chamay  acknowledges  his  indebtedness  to  our  Fellow,  Mr.  Maudslay,  whom 
he  met  at  work  in  the  same  field,  and  the  detailed  results  of  whose  labours  will 
be  welcomed  by  those  who  value  accurate  observations  and  scientific  deductions. 
While  there  is  much  to  interest  and  instract  in  M.  Cbamay's  volume,  its  value 
iis  a  contribution  to  a  solution  of  the  Toltcc  problem,  and  the  early  civilisation 
of  America,  cannot  be  regarded  as  high.  In  his  prefiace  he  indulges  largely  in 
si)eculation  on  problems  which  many  competent  students  deem  insoluble  with 
our  present  data.    He  believes  that "  the  autochthones  of  America**  came  from 


394 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS, 


the  East:  and  amoDg  tLe  arguments  adduced  in  support  of  tlii.^  view  is  tht> 
following  t— *"  The  ^vord  '  Lacondon/  which  is  the  name  of  a  tribe  in  Central 
America,  ii  alao,  according  to  Dr.  Neis,  that  of  a  race  in  ludo-China,  who  spell 
it  *  Lah-canh-<3ong.*  *"  The  English  of  tliis  abridged  translation  is  often  extremely 
awkward  and  almost  unintelligible*  It  is  scarcely  credible^and  oertaioly  not 
creditable,  that  a  work  like  thm  should  be  puhiiahed  without  an  index, 

[ColleUB,  J,  HJ— Guide  to  Trinidad.  A  Hand-Book  for  the  use  of  Tourists  and 
Visitors,  Port-of-Spaiu,  Mnir,  Marshall,  &  Co.,  and  Ford  &  Co.,  1887 :  Sto,, 
pp.  240,  map  and  frontispiece.    Price  4*. 

The  author  who  was  for  nine  years  a  resident  in  Trinidad^  has  here  brought 
together  a  deal  of  useful  information  regarding  the  island,  including — its  Early 
History  and  People;  its  Soil,  Productions  and  Climate  ;  how  to  reach  Trinidad, 
Cost  of  Living,  &c,  j  description  of  Port-of-Spain,  the  capital  Details  are  also 
given  of  excursions  to  varions  parts  of  the  ishmd. 


AUSTBALASIA. 

Chalmerfi,  James. — Pioneering  in  New  Guinea.  London,  Religious  Tract  Society, 
1857  :  Svo.,  pp.  xii.  and  343,     Price  IGs,    [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

Mr.  Chalmers's  long  and  useful  work  in  Kew  Guinea  is  well  known,  and 
he  himself  gave  some  account  of  ft  at  a  recent  meeting  of  the  Society  (see 
Proc,  R.G.S,,  Feb.  1887,  p.  71).  In  the  present  volume  we  hare  no  connected 
narrative  of  Mr.  Chalmers's  routes  and  journeys,  but  rather  a  series  of  episodes 
or  sketches  embodying  a  good  deal  of  geographical  and  ethnological  information. 
The  first  chapter  describes  a  trip  to  Oiabu  and  Mekeo  on  the  west  of  the 
Owen  Stanley  Range,  where  Mr.  and  Mrs,  Chalmers  delighted  the  natives  by 
singing  their  national  song,  "  Auld  Lang  Syne,"  which  was  rej^eatedly  encored. 
In  the  second  chapter  are  some  nseful  details  concerning  the  native  trade.  The 
third  chapter  also  deiils  with  trade,  describing  a  trading  voyage  in  native  boats 
along  the  Gnlf  of  Papua,  in  which  Mr,  Chalmers  took  part.  Chapter  iv.  deaU 
with  various  tribal  wars,  and  chapter  v.  with  peacemaking.  In  tlie  next 
chapter  is  an  interesting  account  of  two  journeys  into  the  south-cast  interior  of 
the  taland.  Chapter  viii.  contains  matter  of  considerable  ethnological  value-^ 
being  answers  to  a  long  aeries  of  questions  on  the  habits,  customs,  and  beliefs 
of  the  Motu  and  Motumotu  tribes.  In  the  next  three  chapters  we  have 
accounts  of  various  tripj  mode  by  Mr,  Chalmers  on  board  H,M.  ships,  one  m 
company  with  Commodore  Erskine,  when  the  Protectorate  was  proclaimed,  and 
another  with  the  late  Sir  Peter  Scratcliley,  Chapter  xii.  deals  with  the  location 
of  native  missianaries^  and  in  chapter  xiii.  we  have  an  account  of  various 
New  Guinea  celebrities^  while  the  concluding  chapter  describes  a  variety 
of  intea'stiug  episodes.  It  Is  instructive  to  be  told  that  in  ail  Christian- 
ised islands  in  the  Pacific,  May  continues  to  be  held  as  a  great  month  of 
feasting  and  rejoicing,  as  in  heathen  times,  the  ceremonies,  however,  being 
now  adapted  to  Christian  uses.  The  map  from  the  February  number  of  the 
'  Proceedings '  is  reproduced,  and  the  numerous  illustrations  are  appropriate  and 
wtU  executed, 

GENERAL,  ' 

Geographifiches  Jahrbnch.  Begriindet  1866  durch  E,  Behm,  XI.  Band,  1887, 
Unt^T  Mitwirkung  von  O,  Drude,  G,  Gerland,  J,  Hann,  H.  Hergesoll,  0.  Eriim- 
mell,  E.  Rudolph,  L.  K,  Scbmarda,  Fr.  Toula,  herausgegeben  von  Hermann 
Wagner,     Gotha,  Justus  Perthes,  1887  :  8vo.,  pp.  viii.  and  496.     Price  12  Mark, 

The  new  volume  of  this  invaluable  seiia!  begins  a  new  series,  the  fresh 
starting-point  being  marked  by  a  change  of  form  from  the  old  small  quarto  to  a 
respectable  octavo.  The  size,  moreover,  is  greatly  increased^  the  present  volume 
embracing  only  what  was  the  first  part  of  previous  iseues^the  separate  sections 
of  geography,  or  the  various  geographical  sciences*    The  subject  of  the  Physics 


NEW  MAPS. 

of  tbe  Earth  is  this  yeflr  treated  by  two  you  113:  Strasahiirg  specmlitts,  Br.  Her- 
pe«oU,aad  Dr.  Rudolph.  l>ofe«,sor  Toulu,  of  YieQDa,  brings  togetbor  new  data 
on  tbe  geognostic  stract-ure  of  tbe  enrtbV  flurfkoem  various  rpgiona.  The  ever- 
"wideDin^  subject  of  fteennography  19  dealt  with  by  Dr.  0*  KrUnimel^  and  Dt, 
Hann  devotca  74  pages  to  receot  advances  in  Geographical  Meteorolo;jy. 
Aljout  .^0  paacB  »re  given  to  the  geographical  Distribution  of  Pknts  by  Dr, 
O.  Drade,  ana  the  sftme  space  by  Dr.  L.  K.  Schmarda  to  the  Distribution  of 
Animftls.  Eecent  Ethnological  research  h  dealt  ivith  in  about  BO  pages  by  Dr. 
G.  Gerland,  of  Strasaburg,  Prof.  Warner  is  to  bo  congratulated  on  the  improve- 
nieDt«  which  he  has  introduced  into  the  JahrhucK 


NEW  MAPS. 

(By  J.  CoLi:^,  Map  Ouraior^  R«o^.) 
EUBOFK. 


Alpea* — Karte  der zwiacben  Lech  und  Inn  und  die  Uingebnng  von  MUnchen, 

▼on  L,  Wenng,  Scale  1 :  400,CMXJ  or  5 -5  geographical  miles  to  aa  inch.  Wiirz- 
hurg,  Staudinger.     Price  la,     (Dulau,) 

BrailBSchweig. — Special  karte    vom    Heneogthum  —  nach    ofiBcieUen  Quellen 
bearbeitet.     Wolfenbiitte^,  Zwiealer.     Prico  2«.     (DuluuJ) 

Bentachland  und  die  Alpen. — Profit  durch in'  der  Linio  de«  10*«>  LUngen- 

grades  ustlich  von  Greenwich  auf  die  incridionale  Kriimmung  des  Meereaniveau^K 
aufgetragen  im  einheitlicben  MassTerhaltnisse  von  1 :  600,000  or  6*S  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.  Der  Bogen  des  Meeresniveau's  ist  mit  Boniitzung  dea  im 
glcichen  Verlago  erschieneoen  Lingg'schen  Erd profiles  konstniirt.  Yerlag  nnrl 
AusfUhrang  der  k,  b.  priviU  Kunstantalt  von  Piloty  3^  Loehle,  Milnchen. 
Price  3s.    (Bukiu,) 

In  the  construction  of  this  profile  Be^Bel's  geodetic  elements  have  been  used. 
The  meridian  for  which  this  section  is  given  is  the  tenth  east  of  Greenwich, 
and  extends  from  45°  N,  to  54®  N,,  thus  passing  through  Cremonai  Ulm, 
Eibelfttadt,  Bischofsheim,  Northeim,  and  Hamburg,  and  showing  the  profile  of 
jtbe  Alps  of  Bergamo,  tbe  Bhmtinn  Alp«,  Bregenzer  Wald,  and  the  Algau  Alps. 
The  projection  shows  the  true  curvature  of  the  earth^s  surface  when  drawn  on 
a  scale  of  1 :  5O0»0OO,  and  a  chord  of  the  arc  subtended  between  the  adopted 
latitudes  serves  further  to  illustrate  tho  subject.  In  one  corner  the  j^eatest 
elevations  in  each  of  the  principal  divisions  or  the  world  are  given  on  the  same 
iioale^  as  well  as  the  ocean  depths.  This  section  is  well  drawn,  and  should  be 
very  usefid  in  conveying  to  students  a  correct  idea  of  the  earth's  form,  and 
tbe  proportions  which  the  elevations  and  depressions  on  its  surface  b<»r  to  the 
wbole  mass. 

ORDNANCE  aXTKVEY  MAPS, 

Pabtlcfttlocki  l«nad  Sarins  thm  mmtk  <tt  April  ISST, 
l.inoll — General  Mapa  :^ 

LxGLAVD  AKD  WxuLa  t  Kew  Soflc*.    Ko.  SOS,  wlQi  HIUa,  tngraTed,  tx. 
6 -Inch— County  M«[i«:-» 

K^oLASD  AifD  Walm  t  Bedfordsliire  :  w  9.W. ;  it.  Brecknockaliire :  13  9.E-  14  S,F1. 
15  SAV.,  19  S.E..  n  JT.W.,  S.W.,  S.E.,  27  N.W..  as  N.K.,  S.K.,  :m  S.W,  36  S.K. ;  u.  each.  Cam- 
bridir©8hire:  i  S.W..  a  ti.K.  4  N.R.  SW.,  1  S.E,  ii  N.W.,  S.VV..  n  a.K,,  33  NE,.  S.W,,  S.fcl, 
46  N.W,  N.K..  S.W,.  S.E. ;  u.  each.  CardlimnsMre :  4  N.W„  aw„  s.K..  is  N.W..  n  N.K., 
S,K.;  u.  fSkch.  Oarmarthanihire :  «  S.W.,  10  SJC.,  ib  aK, ;  it.  e»cb,  Cornwall :  64  N.E. 
ATkd &£,  on ooe  »bret ;  If.  Derbyahire:  41  S.E.;  i«.  DevonsMre;  20  n;w.,  NK.,  s.K,, 
•SK^EL.  S.W.,  m  N.E.,  127  N.W*.  N.KL  i  U,  tmch.  Doraetshlre  :  0  N.W.  and  S.W.  on  on© 
■bitt,  •>'>:.,  aR,  lU  N.W.,  13  aK^  U&K,  ISN.W.,  N.E*8.W„.S.E,,  is  N.VT„aW.,  I«  N,E.; 
Ij.  •aeh.  Glamor gttnslilro :  as;  It.  ed.  Qlonoeaterahire :  3e  K.W.,  46  S.W.»  ?r  N.E. ; 
U.  inch,  Hereford»hlr« :  ac  H.HL,  at  &IS.,  ss  S,W,,  aE,,  39  HW. ;  ii.«*cii.  Hantinffdon- 
•hiT« ;  33  N,E.,  s.W^  2H  N. W„  N.F^  S.W.,  S,E. ;  li,  etch.    I^iceaterahlre :  3  i^W..  %  S.E.. 

Ko.  YX.^JvsE  1887.]  2  y 


396 


KEW  MAPS. 


43  &E.J  II.  eacli.  LmcobiBliir^:  21  N,W^  tii  N,E.,  se  N.E^  113  S.W*;  It*  each*  Merioneth- 
ijiire:  14  SvW,„  *<:i!  s  i:, ;  ijf,  lacii.  Momnoutlishire :  30,  ^.  34,  36,  mdA  as,  on  uoe  Eb<ret} 
ai,  <kJ.  *ach,  MontKomerFBhlre ;  iT  N.W. ;  i*.  Korfolk :  43  Jf.E..  66  S/K,.  6(  N.W., 
S.E.,  Ts  SM.;  u.  uracil.  Shropsliii'e  ^  :«  N*W.;  tr  Somereet&hlre :  t^o  SkW.,  m  N.E,. 
;  87  S.W.,  91  N.E.,  It.  each.  StalfordBitiro :  36  N.E.;  i*.  Suffolk :  t^  NE.;  u,  Warwiok- 
sMrei  »  N.E,,  li  B.E,,  IT  N.W.,  K.K..  28  N.W.,  33  N,K. ;  1*.  eAcJi.    Wiltshire :  it  ;  2*.  eu. 

SS-lmch'-Pariiii  M*pt:^ 

l-lKfiLAKD  AKP  Walks:  Cambridareahlre  :  XU.  5,  4«.;  XU.  14,  LVIIL  ll.  13» 3*. eacli ;  XXXrV. 
9,  XXXV.  »,  U,  XL!L  3,  6,  3i.  each.  Devoashire  :  XXJX.  16,  XXX,  16,  l,  LIE  16,CX1L  11,  12, 
Hi.  CXJII.  1, 2,  fi,«,  9, 13,  u,  3*.  each.  G-loucesterahiro  -,  VIII.  16, 16.  3*.  mch.  Are»  Book: 
Welfurd  (part  of)»  ii.  Herefordshire:  X,  ifl.  4r;  XVil.  7,  6i.;  XVIIE  u»  lo,  ii.  12,  13, 
XIX.  0.  10.  Ki.  14,  XXIV.  *.  h  XXVll.  6.  9,  IQ,  Js.  Mcli;  XXVIJ.  13,  4a. ;  XXVIL  IC.  XXXIV.  ll. 
3j,  Lieicesterahire  :  XXX VI t.  3.  u.  Llne&lnHhlre  :  V.  4»  VI.  6,  xr.  1. 4*. each;  XL  3, 
8.  9,  10.  11. 12, 13^  14,  IS.  Zi.  each ;  XVIIL  4*  4ii  XVIIL  7,  XIX.  3,  4,  13,  16.  M.  p«cli ;  XXVIL  3, 
4f.;  XXVIL  *.  7.  3i,  tack;  XSXVL  1,  4j.;  XLIL  12,  fit.;  XLV.  1,  2.  §,  7,  lAlL  3.  ns.  each  :  Ltll. 
7,  41.;  LIJL  P,  13,  14,  Ifl,  LXL  9,  11.  U,  3*. ;  LXI.  10,  4*.  j  LXII.  3.  11.  12,  IS.  LXXVIL  2*  CLIL  1, 
3f.  eacb  ;  CLIL  3.  4,  U.  «Adi ;  €L1[I.  1,  ^  6,  3t.  emh.  MontffOmervBhlre  !  TV.  14.  V.  »«  13, 
IX  1, 6,  6,  JX.  11,  IS,  XIIL  &.  10,  XtV.  a,  10,  XXL  2,  S.  XXVU.  II,  XXXOL  I.  %  la,  XXXIV.  10. 11. 
3*.  eAcb.  Korfdlk :  IIL  7  and  ll  on  oi]« sht^t.  III.  13,  14,  16,  V.  16,  VIII.  1.  6,  0.  12,  13,  14,  IX. 
7,  9, 14,  15,  X.  11.  15,  XV,  16,  3*.  each  J  LXXVllI.  7.  6#.  6*i  An-a  Book*  :  Oltter  next  Yarmoutli, 
Bibb,  Or«at  Varmouih  (pan  <jf),  Gorlc«U>ii  (p«rt  of),  Halveriiate,  RojdoD.  lliiiiham  and  ditto 
(detaclit'd),  Scole;  it.  «adi.  If  orthamptonahirei  UL  1,  3t.;  III.  3.  4,  6,  4#,  cAch  j  IH.  a,  3#.; 
IV.  1,  4t/i  IV,  6,  6,  3t.  each;  XLV.  1,  6,  4t.;  XLV.  10.  £^.  Area  Books;  Lfrt'at  Huughtoo,  Little 
Moupfht^jii^  Stonrtuiit  It.  eacli.  Nottme-hameblro :  VIL  12. st.  Shropshire:  Area  Booka: 
Aihfurd  liowdler.  Aiihford  C»rKimll,  iKii-t*}!!!'.  if.  i?*ch  ;  Bitterley.  It.  (Sd. ;  BorMtun.  Brmnfidd^ 
Bockiiell  (part  of}^  Bnj-ront,  Caynbata,  It.  each  \  CtnnbuTy.  It.  &i, ;  Clnngranfotij.  £a»t  HaiBlet.^<Jrc«t^ 
UoptOQ  Ca*tle,  It.  «ad]  ^  Llanr&lr  WHt^rdine,  li. ;  LuinlWEiMloe  Nonb  (part  of).  Ludfiml,  Ludlow 
Cutte  (Lndlow),  Na*h,  Onlbury.  RlcbanJ'B  Ca«lle,  St.  Ijiwrenc*  (Liidlow)  li.  eath;  Stanton 
Lw:ir,  It.  (ki.;  8u>w.  li.  ScmersetaMre ;  LXII.  9,  St.;  LXIIL  9,  4f.;  LXI  HI.  7,  LXXJV.  3. 
7,  8, 3f.  each  J  LXXIV.  9.  il,  4t.  te^ln  LXXIV.  12,  3i.;  LXXIV.  13,  4t.;  LXKIV.  14,  3t.i  LXXIV, 
1&,  4«.    StaffordBhire :  LXII.  ifi.  LXI II.  6,  w,  LXVJI.  4,  at.  each  i  « J(  VH.  8,  lit.  ed.;  LXVIL 

14.  «f.  W.  Arii  Botikfl:  ItUAball,  If.  Buffolk  I  IL  t,  flt.  6J. ;  LXXXVL  S,  3f.  Area  Boak«i 
H<^lugiield,  Bildeiitoa.  Uradwell,  BrcUingbam,  Buxhall,  GaziU-y;  HrvAt  Yorriiuiitb  (part  laf).  Hiiitte- 
«liani.  llktciiam*  K<?ntfoTd,  KtiUeboftDJi,  Lavenbam.  Mii^MUou,  :Nwij;;^ing.  ^orltju,  Soutbolt.  I'resttjn, 
T]i<tri»e  Worieiut,  WaiUfbani,  Wf-nbniii  Parva,  li.  each.  Warwickshire  :  XXXV.  9,  XXXiX. 
«,  12,  16.  16.  XL.  6.  t,  31.  etich ;  XU  9,  14.  4t.  each;  XLI.  1,  ^  3t.  mcb  ;  XLl.  6,  U. ;    XLI.  «,  Lill. 

15.  Ii6.  3t.  4?acb,  Area  Book:  Aiberstone  upon  Stour,  It.  Wiltahire I  XXXL  IS,  1ft.  aoel 
XXXVnU-— 4,  oil  otifi  abeet,  XXXV.  e,  II,  16.  XXX  VL  7.  XLIV.  3,  4,  7.  at.  e^cli;  XLIV.  11,  4f. ; 
XLIV.  1%  la.  XLVil.  3, 4. 7,  a,  11, 14.  XLYIIL  I.  6. 3t.  each.  W^orceetershlre :  L  11, 61.  «cL; 
XL.  1, 14,  4t.  «acb;  LL  16,  le,  3f.  cadi.    Area  Booka  :  CiMvePrkur,  HindHp.  it.  eacb. 

Town  Plaaa— l(>-ft-et  Kale.*^-» 

Kkgland  ayi>  Waives  :  Lelctnter,  XXX E.  10,  3,  4,  6,  t;  2t.  neb.  West  Bromwfch  and  ScncthiildE, 
LXVJIL  M,  14;  31. 


{Stun/ord^  Agent) 


AFRICA. 


Afrika^ — Sj^ezial-Karle  von im  Massntab  voa  1 :  4,0<X>,000or  55*5  ji^eograpliicftl 

milea  to  an  iuch  {10  Blatt.)  entworfen  von  Hermann  HabeDicbt,  bearbeitet  von 
demselben,  Bruno  Domann  iind  Dr.  Hichard  Luddecke.  Zweite  Auflage.  1^  Lief« 
Inhalt :  Prospectus,— Sekti on  Abessinien  (6)  nebst  Bemerkungen  von  H.  Habe- 
nicht.  Sektion  Ck>ngo  (7)  nebst  Ikmerkungen  von  H,  Habenicht.  Gotba,  Justua 
Perthes,  1887.     Price  3s.  each  part.     (Didau,} 

This  is  the  first  part  of  a  new  edition  of  this  excellent  map  of  Africa,  it 
consists  of  two  sheets,  arid  the  pros|)ectus  (containing  index  map).  Sheet 
No«  6  contains  ^lart  of  Dr.  Junker's  explorations,  and  also  exhibits  the 
boundaries  of  Emin  Paihas  Province.  On  the  mast  of  tbe  lied  Sea^  the  Italian 
territory  extending  from  Massouah  to  Assab  Bay  is  shown^  and  the  colouring 
along  tbe  coast  of  Somali  Land,  which  in  tbe  previous  edition  indicated  that 
it  was  under  Gorman  protection,  lia«  been  removed.  Sheet  No.  7,  boundary 
between  the  Congo  Free  State  and  tbe  French  possessions  has  been  moved  to 
the  Mobaniii,  and  the  boundary  of  the  Portugpeae  territory  of  Angola  is  also 
tbown.  In  the  Congo  basin,  the  river  Lukenje,  the  work  of  Francois,  and 
some  of  Gmufeil's  is  laid  down.  There  are  tiuiaeroiis  other  corrections  and 
additions  which  bear  nitnees  to  the  careful  revision  which  tbe  original  edition 
of  this  map  has  undergone. 

Massaua* — Carta  Sptciale  del  la  Regione  attorno  a  — -  tra  1*  Uokifo  o  Lava  e  , 
riladdaa,  sino  ad  Asus,  Gbinda  ed  Ua-a,  costruita  e  disegnata  da  Gui'^' 
Scale  1  :  200,000  or  *2*7  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.     Torino,  < 
2'-  edizione,  1B87.     Price  lOd,   iDuIau,) 


I 


NEVr  UAI-S. 


MI 


This  map,  which  has  Id  a  great  measure  been  compiled  by  Profesaor  Guido 
Cont  from  Home  UEpubiiahed  material,  will  doubtless  he  examined  with  interest 
by  matij  In  connection  witli  the  movements  of  tlie  Italian  troopa  in  the  neigh- 
bo«irh<Kx3  of  MasBouah,  The  bouodaries  of  the  territory  claimed  by  Italy  are 
clearly  laid  down^  and  many  of  the  totwgraphical  featureSj  which  do  not  appear 
in  other  maps,  are  ahowo. 

Sn&kin  uad  Ka&sala- — Die  Karawauen-Strftsaen  zwischen *  Nach  Itinerar- 

Aufnahmen  vou  Jusoph  Menj^es,  gezeichnet  v.  C*  Baricli.  tscale  1  :  800»(K)0  ur 
10*9  geographical  milea  to  an  inch.  Petermanii's  'GeoTraphiache  Mitteilungen/ 
Jahrgang  1B87,  Taf.  6.    Justus  Perthes,  Oulha.     (Duhn,) 


ATLA8E6. 

Argentilie  Repllblic.— Atlas  de  la  Republics  Argentina,  conatruido  y  publicado 
[•or  rescjlucion  del  "  Instituto  Geografioo  Argentine  "  bajo  loa  auapicioa  del  Exmo. 
Gobierno  Xacional  y  redactado  por  el  l>r.  Arturo  Seelstrang,  miembro  del 
Instituto.  Buenoa  Aires:  LitograOa  y  Eocuadernacion  de  Gailiermo  Kraft. 
1886.    (Diiluu.y 

This  is  the  first  iMue  of  the  Atlas,  and  oontaius  the  following  mapa : — 
Sheet  V,,  the  aouth-east  section  of  tlie  Province  of  Baenos  Aires;  sheet  VIII., 
the  pn>vmce  of  Entre  Rioa ;  sheet  XIL,  the  northern  section  of  the  Province 
of  Cordoba,  and  sheet  Xtll.,  the  southern  Bection  of  the  same  province;  sheet 
XXVi»,  the  Government  of  Santa  Cruz;  and  sheet  XXVIL,  the  Government 
of  Tierra  del  Fuego  and  the  Falkland  Islanda,  From  the  above  it  will  be  seen 
that  the  abecta  of  this  atlaa  are  not  being  issued  in  consecutive  order,  but  as 
600D  Es  completed  in  aufhcient  numbers  to  make  up  a  livraison.  The  maps 
are  not  acoonipanied  by  any  explanatory  text,  neither  is  any  information  given 
Bi  to  the  authorities  or  surveys  from  which  they  are  compiled.  This  is  to  be 
regretted,  aa  some  of  the  sheets,  especially  Noe,  XIL,  XIIL,  XXVh,  and 
XXYIL,  contain  a  large  amount  of  new  work.  The  maps,  which  have  been 
entirely  prcxiuccd  at  Buenos  Aires,  are  very  creditable  siJecimens  of  work,  and 
the  Atlas  when  completed  will  be  a  most  imjx>rtant  and  valuable  addition  to 
the  cartography  of  South  America^ 

ie. — Die in  Karteu  u.  BUdem.    Hand-Atlas  in  sechzig  Karten  und  800 

IJlustnitionen.     In  GO  Lieferunj^en  vollatiLndig.     A.  Hartlebens  Verlag,  Wien, 
Peit,  Leipzig.     1.  Lieferung.     Price  U,     (Dulan,) 

This  is  the  first  isaue  of  a  popular  Atlas  which  will  be  compleled  in  hfty 
ptrts,  coutivining  sixty  maps,  eight  hundred  illustrations,  and  copious  letter^ 
press.  In  this  part  are  two  sheets  of  maps,  one  containing  the  World  in  hemi- 
ipberes,  and  on  an  elliptical  projection,  the  other  being  a  map  of  Norway  and 
Sweden ;  both  are  well  executed,  and  considering  that  there  are  twelve  pages 
of  descriptive  letterpress,  and  twenty  iiluBtratious,  it  is  marvellously  cheap  at 
the  price,  viz,  one  shilling, 

£eyal  Atlas  of  Modern  Geography.— The  ,  exhibiting,  in  a  seriea  of 

entirely  original  and  autbentic  maps,  the  present  condition  of  geographical 
discovery  and  research  in  the  several  countries,  empires,  and  states  of  the  world. 
By  the  late  Alexander  Keith  Johnston,  LL.a,  f.b.g.s.,  r.R.s.E.,  *Stc.  &c.  With 
additbns  and  corrections  to  the  present  date  by  T.  B.  Johnston,  F,B.G.e-,  F,R.f!i.E*, 
r.s.A,s.,  &c.  With  a  SjDeclal  Index  to  each  map.  A  new  edition.  W.  3:  A.  K. 
Johnston,  Edinburgh  and  London.  1887.  Price, 
russia  or  morocco,  with  gilt 
gilt,  10/.  10s. 

In  the  pnesenii 


imperial  folio,  half-bound,  in 
full  bound,  russia  or  morocco, 


^  tbtirely  new  maps,  one  of 

!     *     I  om posing  the 

[hat,  with  the 


S98 


NEW  MAPS. 


«J 


exception  of  tbe  coast-line,  they  hav«  be«n  entirely  re-drawn  and  *. 
Oe  tbe  sheets  repreaentiag  Eojjjland  and  Scotland  the  names  of  mai 
which  have  grown  to  be  important  eince  the  earlier  cditiona  were  ju^ 
have  been  inserted.    Many   corrections  and  additions  will  be  found 
maps,  thus,  in  tlie  map  of  the  North  Polar  Regions,  Major  Gr&ely's  - 
given;  on  that  of  Europe  the  bonndaries  of  Bulgaria  have  been  ooi . 
roarty  alterations  have  been  made  in  the  maps  of  North-west  and 
Afrim,  and  on  the  latter  are  shown  the  results  of  the  explorations  of 
and  Giraiid,  some  portion  of  Jiinker*8  work  being  ako  j^iven.    Sheet  42  < 
all  the  lateat  information  we  have  on  the  subject  of  the  Somali  countr 
the  map  of  Persia  and  Afghaniitan  the  boundarica  of  the  latter  country  • 
down  by  the  Commissioners  are  given,  and,  generally  speaking,  nearly 
map  has  received  imix>rtant  corrections.     There  are,  however,  aa  mig'" 
expected  in  a  work  of  this  magnitude,  several  exceptions  to  this  nile,  foTt^-^;^ 
among  which  is  the  general  map  of  Africa,  which  ia  certainly  quite  out  of     "^ 
Aa  the  Royal  Atlas  has  now  been  before  the  public  for  twenty-six  y-^^ 
and  baa  passed  through  several  editions,  it  would  be  neetiless  to  enter 
the  particulars  as  to  the  manner  in  "which   the  maps  have  been   exect  ^  ^ 
except  to  remark  that  the  two  new  maps  of  Western  Canada  aud   Me^  "^^ 
which  are  the  work  of  Mr»  W.  J.  Turner,  who  was  formerly  draughtsman  to  ^^^ 
Society,  are  quite  equal  to  any  of  those  contained  in  the   previons  editr  -^ 
and  which  have  gained  for  the  Royal  Atlas  such  a  weU»deserved  reputatioi^C^^ 

Horth  Atlantic  Ocean. —  Synchronous   Weather    Charts    of  the and 

adjacent  continents  for  every  day  from  1st  August  1882  to  Slst  August  1 
Published  nnder  the  authority  of  the  Meteorological  Council,  Part  XL  Ch 
from  8th  November  1882  to  14th  February  1S83.  London,  printed  for 
Majesty's  Stationery  Office  by  Eyre  and  S|K>tti8woode.  And  to  be  pnrcbi 
either  directly  or  through  any  Bookseller,  from  Eyre  and  Spottiswoode, 
Harding  Street,  Fleet  Street,  E.C,  or  A.  &  C.  Black,  Edinburgh,  or  K 
Figgis  &  Co.  Dublin.    Price  lis.  this  part. 

This  ia  a  coutinuation  of  the  valuable  series  of  meteorological  charta, 
first  issue  of  which  waa  noticed  in  the  May  number  of  the  R.G.S*  *  Proceedir:*. 

EDUCATIONAL. 

Kampeili  Alb.  de« — ^Tabulio  maxlmna  quibiie  ilhistrantnr  terraa  Vetera m,  in  iis 
s^eholamm  editic  ab  Alb.  de  Kampcn*     Tabula  11*  Italia,     Scale  1 :  750,000 
10' 3  geographical  miles  to  an  inch,     Goth«e,  Justiia  Perthes,  1887.    9  sheel^** 
Price  B».    (Duhii.) 


Tabulae  maximie  quibna  illnatrantur  terne.  vetemm,  in  usum  scholanin^ 

eJitiB  ab  Alb.  Kampen,     Tabula  III.    Gallia.     Scale  1:750,000  or  10*3  geo-^^ 
grapbtcal   miles  to  an   inch,      Gotha?,   Justus  Perthes,     9  sheets.      Price  8r* 
(Dulau,) 

These  form  part  of  a  series  of  school  maps  Id  course  of  publication.  Thejg 
arc  <lrawn  iu  a  bold  style,  and  seem  in  all  respects  well  Biiited  to  the  purpose 
for  which  they  are  designed^ 


PROCEEDINGS 


OF 


ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  RECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


ExphralimiB  in  Central  Africa,    By  Dn  W.  Jukker. 

(Bead  at  the  Evening  Jleeting,  May  9th,  1887.) 

Map,  p.  4GG. 

Although  I  Ixa^^e  not  until  now  had  tlie  honour  of  addressing  an 
Englifih  audienc©  on  tho  subject  of  my  travels,  I  may  take  it  for  granted 
that  my  hearers  are  suflSciently  acquainted  with  the  account  of  my  first 
journey,  which  was  laid  before  the  i>iiblic  in  a  lecturo  delivered  in 
Berlin  in  the  year  1870.  In  the  same  year  I  set  out  on  my  second 
journey,  in  which,  after  seven  years'  wanderings  from  my  departure 
from  Cairo,  I  reached  the  ehores  of  the  Indian  Ocean,  at  Zanzibar,  in 
December  laat.  My  purpose  in  claim  leg  your  attention  at  present  is  to 
lay  before  you  a  short  account  of  my  long  wanderings  in  the  equatorial 
provinces  of  Egypt,  Through  an  unfortunate  concurrence  of  circum- 
fitances,  this  journej'^  covered  a  period  of  time  and  an  extent  of  ground 
far  beyond  my  original  intoiitions. 

In  the  short  space  of  time  during  which  I  can  claim  your  attention, 
I  can,  of  oourse,  give  you  but  a  meagre  outline  of  my  experiences 
during  these  long  ycarsj  and  of  the  results  to  which  my  journej'  haa  led. 
The  mass  of  materials  collected  makes  it  quite  impossible  to  linger  over 
details. 

Instead  of  expatiating  on  the  incidents  of  the  whole  journey,  and 
giving  a  minute  account  of  the  regions  I  have  traversed,  I  shall  confine 
myself  chiefly  to  the  events  of  the  last  few  years.  By  the  outbreak  of 
the  warlike  troubles  in  the  Sudan,  the  Ecjuatorial  Provinces  %vere, 
during  my  residence,  completely  cut  off  from  all  communication  with 
the  north,  which  might  have  enlightened  people  in  Europe  as  to  what 
was  going  on  there.  Whilo  wo  had  to  remain  in  the  dark  as  to  what 
was  taking  place  in  the  Sudan,  you  hsive  had  to  remain,  up  to  the 
present  time,  in  ignorance  as  to  the  progress  of  events  in  the  negro 
countries  subject  to  the  sway  of  the  Egyptian  Government.  I  believe, 
therefore,  that  I  shall  have  a  hotter  chance  of  retaining  your  attention 
if  I  confine  myself  in  the  folio wng  account  to  the  historical  events 

No.  VII.— July  18870  2  g 


400 


EXPLORATIONS  IK  CE.NTRAL  AFRICA. 


that  occurred  in  those  then  imaccossihlo  Equatorial  Provinces  during 
those  eventful  years.  I  shall  princiijully  treat  of  that  region  in  which, 
at  the  present  moment,  Emin  Pasba,  with  his  soldiers  and  a  small  band 
of  oflicialsj  is  patiently  LoldiDg  out  till  the  hour  of  delivorance  arrive. 

My  route  seven  years  ago  was  from  Suez  to  Suakim,  anti  thence, 
hy  a  route  which  was  new  to  me,  to  Berlwr*  On  1113'  first  journey  to  the 
Sudan,  ten  years  ago,  I  had  followed  the  £hor  Baraka  from  Suakim  by 
Tokar  to  Kassala. 

On  my  return  from  my  fi^rst  journey  I  bad  taken  the  route  from  Khar- 
tum through  the  Bayiida  steppo  to  Dongola.  On  my  »eoond  journey  a 
gteamer  took  me  from  Berber  to  Khartum,  where  I  arrived  in  the  begin- 
niEg  of  January  1880,  As  a  travelling  companion  I  bad  engaged  a 
German,  named  Bohndorff,  who  was  to  aid  mo  in  preserving  zoological 
specimens.  A  negro  boy,  whom  I  had  brought  %vith  me  to  Europe  on  my 
first  journey,  accompanied  me  on  the  second,  back  to  the  negro  countries. 
It  was  my  purpose  to  explore  the  regions  on  the  Welle,  and  to  follow 
that  stream  as  far  as  possible  to  the  west*  I  hoped  in  this  way  to  find 
a  definite  solution  to  the  long  open  question,  whether  the  Welle,  first 
discovered  by  Dr.  Schweinfurth,  lielonged  to  the  Congo  or  to  the  Shari 
Ijasin.  At  the  time  of  my  arrival  at  Khartum,  the  dipper  court^e  of  the 
Nile  (that  is  to  say,  of  the  Bahr  el  Gebel)  had  been  closed  for  months 
by  grass  ban"ier«,  the  well-known  Sudd.  iSovoral  steamers  were  work- 
ing, under  the  direction  of  Marno,  at  the  task  of  freeing  the  stream. 
This  circumstance  thwarted  my  plan  of  reaching  the  Welle  from  Lado, 
through  the  Makaraka  countries,  which  were  known  to  me  from  my 
first  journey  to  the  Sudan.  I  therefore  eml>arked  in  the  course  of 
January,  the  month  of  my  arrival,  on  a  steamer  bound  for  the  Bahr  el 
Ghazal,  and  in  February  we  reached  Meshra  or  Hek,  This  was  the 
starting  point  for  the  land  journey  into  the  country,  then  under  the 
command  of  a  Pasha,  which  bad  recently  been  the  scene  of  bloody  wars 
against  Soliman  Bey,  son  of  Ziltehr  Paeha, 

The  journey  by  steamer  up  the  Bahr  el  Ghazal  was  not  without 
ohstructiona.  We  had  about  forty  larger  and  smaller  grass  bars  to 
force.  These,  however,  on  this  river,  do  not  accjuire  the  thickly  inter- 
woven consistence  of  the  bars  on  the  Bahr  el  Gebel^  but  can  generally 
bo  forced  by  a  steamer.  It  was,  however,  hardly  a  year  afterwards,  that 
these  obstructions  in  the  Bahr  el  Ghazal  brought  hundreds  of  j>eople  to 
a  miserable  death.  A  ste^imer,  returning  fi'om  Heshra  er  Kek,  drove 
into  these  grass  bars  with  such  force,  that  it  could  move  neither  back- 
wards nor  forwards.  The  steamer  had,  unfortunately,  e-overal  barges  in 
tow,  full  of  people,  whom  Gessi  Pasha,  who  was  on  board  in  person, 
wished  to  bring  down  to  Khartum.  All  exertions  to  extricate  them- 
selves from  the  labyrinth  of  matted  river-grass  proved  fruitless,  and 
after  they  had  been  closed  in  several  months  famine  set  in,  and  cai-ried 
off  hundreds  of  wretched  victims.    The  misery  w^as  indescribable.    After 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


401 


everything  eatable  had  been  conBumed,  the  Burvivors  supported  life  by 
devouring  the  bodies  of  the  dead.  A  eteamer  sent  ont  at  a  later 
period  from  Khartura,  brought  off  all  who  had  not  previously  died  of 
famine.  As  already  mentioned^  tho  land  journey  begins  from  Meshra 
<;r  Rek,  and  leade  Bonthwards,  through  various  Dinka  tribes,  in  seven 
days,  to  the  Btation  of  Dyur  Ghattas,  After  a  somewhat  lengthy 
stay  there,  I  travelled  west  with  Gossi  Pasha  l»y  Wan  and  Ganda, 
formerly  the  Dem  Idris  station,  to  tho  head  station  of  the  Babr  el 
(thazal  provinces,  Bern  Soliman,  formerly  Dem  Zibohr,  My  baggage 
was  sent  with  my  people^  direct  from  the  station  Ganda  to  Dem 
Bokir,  wfcdther  I  followed  after  a  short  stay  at  Dem  Soliman.  The 
district  traversed  is,  up  to  this  point,  known  from  tho  accounts  of 
various  travellers*  On  my  first  Sudan  journey,  Doming  from  the  south, 
through  the  Makaraka  countries,  I  had  already  penetrated  beyond 
the  station  Wau.  This  district  wan  first  correctly  mapped  by  Dr. 
8chweinfurth,  my  esteemed  master  and  friend,  wlio  after  the  loss  of  his 
instruments,  undertook  the  tremendous  labour  of  calculating  the 
distaucee  by  counting  his  steps.  My  work  of  exploration,  in  the  real 
scDse  of  the  term,  began  from  Dem  Bekir*  From  theuce  I  travelled  in 
the  course  of  the  following  years,  to  the  south  and  west  on  new  and 
unexplored  ground.  In  the  south  I  was  able  to  correct  the  route  of 
the  Italian,  Miani,  which  bad  been  very  erroneously  laid  down  in  former 
maps.  In  tho  west  I  was  able  to  follow  stretch  by  stretch  the  route  of 
the  Greek  traveller,  Potagos^  whose  journal  has  apparently  never  seen 
the  light,  and  to  map  it  out. 

My  more  iuimediate  goal  was  the  territory  of  the  powerful  Niam  Niam 
king,  N'Domma,  who,  up  to  a  short  time  before,  had  been  at  war  with 
the  troops  of  the  Egyptian  government  in  the  Babr  el  Ghuzal  province* 
He  had  formerly  prohibited  tho  passage  of  the  ivory  atravans  through 
his  country,  and  would  sufl'of  no  station  to  bo  established  in  the  districts 
under  his  sway.  Adopting  a  plan  followed  in  all  my  subsequent  journeys, 
I  sent  messengers  forward  to  N'Doruma  to  give  him  par ticuhirs  about  me, 
telling  him  to  make  a  great  point  of  my  travelling  without  military  eacort. 
1  never  entered  the  territory''  of  a  powerful  ruler,  or  even  of  one  of  the 
minor  chiefs,  without  first  waiting  for  his  messengers,  who  generally 
came  immediately  with  tho^se  I  hud  deeimtched,  to  whom  I  used  to  give 
small  presents  for  the  chiefs,  Tho  negro  is  suspicioua.  N'Doruma  him- 
self, from  ^Buch  motives  of  suspicion^  came  to  meet  me  in  person,  in 
order  to  satisfy  himself  about  me  and  my  people  with  bis  own  eyes. 
Seemingly  at  case  about  us,  he  hastened  back  into  his  own  territories,  in 
order,  as  he  told  mo,  to  quiet  the  apprehensions  of  his  subjects  about 
our  appearance.  In  the  Bahr  el  Ghazal  conntiy  I  had  procured  several 
negro  boys  and  giils  to  cook  our  food  on  the  way.  Though  these  were 
several  times  changed  later  on,  I  never,  in  all  my  journeys  afterwards, 
had  any  other  escort  worthy  the  name  than  such  attendants.     A  littlo 


402 


EXPLOKATIONS  IN  CENTRAL  AFRICA* 


slave  girl,  hardlj  nine  years  of  age,  who  liad  run  away  from  her  owner 
and  fonnd  her  way  to  me,  and  a  little  boy,  of  abont  the  same  age, 
accoinpataied  me  on  all  my  jonmejs  as  far  as  Zanzibar. 

At  kstj  in  the  month  of  May,  1  was  able  to  start  from  Bem  Bekir 
with  250  bearers.  In  fourteen  days  I  reached  the  hnts  of  N*Donima, 
Sonthwanls  from  Dem  Bekir,  before  we  eiitered  the  territories  of  the 
Niam  Niam,  who  call  themselves  A-Zandeh,  we  passed  through  scattered 
tribes  of  the  Golo,  Sere,  and  Bongo.  In  the  first  days  we  crossed  a 
number  of  smaller  streams,  which,  flowing  to  the  north-east,  belong  to 
the  Nile  basin.  Soon,  howtn-er,  we  encountered  streams  flowing  to  the 
west,  which  are  tributaries  of  the  M'bomu.  This  is  the  most  consider- 
able of  the  northem  tributaries  of  the  Welle-Makua.  If  the  Welle  be, 
as  it  probably  is,  the  upper  course  of  the  Mobangi,  and  a  tributary  of  the 
Congo,  the  boundaries  of  the  Congo  Free  State  would  touch  on  the 
Bahr  el  Ghazal  territory.  On  the  banks  of  some  of  these  watercoiirses 
a  luxuriant  and  variegated  vegetation  is  met  with^  which,  more  to  the 
east,  does  not  occtir  till  far  to  the  south.  Here  I  saw  those  magnificent 
**  gallery "  forests  which  have  been  described  by  Dr.  Schweinfurth. 
These  are  narrow  fringes  of  wood,  rising  one  over  another  in  the  form 
of  ton^aces,  along  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  here  forming  deep  gorges,  in 
which  the  whole  magnificence  of  a  tropictil  vegetation  lies  hidden. 

My  real  goal,  as  I  have  already  said,  was  the  districts  on  the  Welle, 
particularly  Mangbattn  (Monbnttn),      We  owe  to  Dr.  Schweinfurth  our 
first  accurate  accounts  of  this  countrj^,  who  however,  reached  it   by 
the  more  easterly  route.     The  wearisome  rainy  season  waa  at  hand  oo 
my  arrival  at  N'Doruma*s.     As  that  ruler  wished  me  to  remain  for  some 
time  with  him,  I  resolved  to  set  up  a  station  there  for  the  coming  months. 
With  the  help  of  N'Domma's  people,  who  were  despatched  to  the  work 
by  hundreds,  I  was  able  to  erect  good,  substantial  dweUings,     I  caused 
my  group  of  huts  to  be  surrounded  with  a  high  stockade,  and  large 
branches  of  thorn  to  be  piled  up  against  this  on  the  outside.     This 
measure  of  precaution  is  necessary  in  those  places,  on  account  of  the 
abundance  of  leopards.     Kegresses  are  frequently  carried  off  by  these 
animals,  generally  when  fetchiog   water   in  the  twilight.     Such   an 
iiccidont   happened  once   in  the    neighbourhood  of  my  station.     The 
animal  having   left  his  victim,  only  half  consumed,  on  the  spot,  we 
caught  it  on  the  following  day  in  a  large  trap,  the  arm  of  the  un- 
fortunate negresa  serving  as  a  bait.     The  leopard  is  in  the  habit  of 
returning,  in  most  cases,  on  several  consecutive  daysj  to  the  spot  where 
ho  has  found  his  food,  before  he  looks  out  for  another  scene  for    his 
depredations.    On  this  account,  in  order  to  catch  the  animal,  the  natives, 
immediately  after  a  victim  has  been  seized,  build  in  the  same  place  & 
small  but  strong  hut  of  trunks  of  trees,  in  which  they  place  a  bait  under 
a  beam,  arranged  so  as  to  fall  whenever  the  bait  is  touched.     Numbers 
of  leopards  are  got  rid  of  in  this  way.    The  lioD,  as  is  well  known,  will 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


403 


13 ot  go  into  sach  a  trap,  and  generally  confines  himself  to  certain  diBtricte, 
rich  in  game,  in  which  he  hunts  the  buffalo  and  antelope.  There  are 
other  diatricte  however,  in  which  ho  freqiiontly  attacks  man.  In  Dar 
Banda,  I  frequently  saw  the  isolated  grass  huts  of  the  negroes  sur- 
rounded by  a  light  network,  to  prevent  midnight  depredations  by  the 
lions,  which  are  abundant  in  that  district.  The  lion  is  said  to  avoid 
the  network  just  as  he  does  the  trap.  Hunting  in  central  Africa  is  an 
unusually  arduous  business.  Bank,  high  grass,  sharp,  cutting  and 
frequently  growing  to  the  thickness  of  rushes,  covers  the  country  nearly 
three-fourths  of  the  year.  For  the  same  reason,  during  the  whole  of  the 
rainy  season,  and  till  the  grass  dries  up  and  is  burnt,  travelling  is 
rendered  immensely  more  dilHcult.  The  narrow  footpaths,  made  use  of 
Tjy  the  negroes,  and  partly  trodden  out  by  wild  animals  (there  are  no 
<*ther  roads  in  Africa),  are  almost  entirely  concealed  by  the  rank  grass. 
The  feet  only,  in  most  places,  have  room  to  move  fonvard,  while  the  grass, 
growing  to  the  height  of  a  man,  interlaces  in  tlie  middle  of  the  path  in 
-Buch  a  wa3^,  that,  on  these  journeys,  I  have  frequently  been  unable  to 
eee  a  man  immediately  in  front  of  me.  I  could  only  hear  him  rustling 
through  the  grass.  For  hours  haves  I  been  compelled,  with  my  lifted 
arm,  to  protect  my  eyes  from  the  "waving  stalks.  Such  is  the  state  of 
matters  at  the  end  of  the  rainy  season  and  after  it.  But  in  December 
and  January  tho  grass  has  become  so  dry,  that  it  can  be  burnt  up.  The 
burning  of  the  grass  is  usual  all  over  Africa.  At  this  time,  and  in  the 
first  months  after  it,  when,  by  means  of  the  nightly  dew,  and  later  on, 
after  the  first  new  rain  falls,  young  grass  has  again  spning  up,  hunting 
is  considerably  easier.  Certain  stretches  of  grass  arc  preserved  from  the 
first  general  conflagration.  The  game  retires  into  these  spots.  The 
elephant  too,  seeks  shelter  in  the  grass  thickets.  When  the  hiding 
places  of  the  animals  have  been  discovered,  and  the  grass  is  drj''  enough 
to  burn,  these  spots  are  set  on  fire  from  several  sides  at  the  same  time- 
The  frightened  animals,  remaining  by  their  young  from  maternal  affec^ 
tioD,  have  their  great  feet  hurt  and  singed  by  the  burning  grasti,  and 
then  fall  an  easier  prey  to  the  spears  of  the  natives. 

Such  extousive  grass  conflagrations  preeent  a  sublime  but  terrible 
€pectacle  in  the  darkness  of  the  night.  While  forcibly  reminding  the 
spectator  that  all  things  are  transitory  and  doomed  to  destructioD,  they 
inspire  him  with  strange  and  contradictory  feelings.  What  an  immense 
flum  of  anim^al  life  is  thus  uselessly  destroyed !  A  whole  insect  world 
finds  its  death  in  the  flames.  Millions  of  grasshoppers  and  winged 
creatures  of  all  kinds,  started  by  the  approach  of  the  fii'O,  rise  into  the 
air  only  to  fall  victims  to  their  natural  enemies.  Insect-eating  birds, 
flying  alx»ut  in  the  smoke  above  tho  flames,  are  waiting  for  the  prey, 
which  falls  to  their  share  in  immense  numbers.  Flocks  of  birds  of  prey, 
chiefly  kite^,  fly  about  in  wide  circles  overhead,  every  moment  picking 
np  the  large  grasshoppers,  or  looking  out  behind  the  lino  of  fire  for  field 


404 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  CENTRiX  AFBICA. 


mioe,  or  even  little  Biiakes.  In  the  montiifl  of  drouglit,  after  the  graev 
baa  been  burnt,  that  is  to  eay,  from  Decomlier  to  March  or  April, 
travoUing  in  most  of  these  equatorial  countries  is  exposed  to  fewer 
obstacles.  The  tall  troublesome  grass  has  disappeared,  and  it  m 
poesibl©  to  move  about  in  freedom  to  the  right  and  left  of  the  path. 
Later  on,  when  the  gi-ass  has  again  shot  np  to  the  height  of  several  feet, 
the  traveller,  brushing  off  the  early  dew  in  the  cool  morning  hours,  is- 
completely  wetted  through  up  to  and  above  the  kneea.  \Yiien  the 
snn's  rays  exert  their  full  power  in  the  heat  of  the  day,  they  then  cause 
an  itchy  feeling  in  the  legs,  like  that  caused  by  heating  bandages.  The 
oontinual  friction  givea  rise  to  sores  difEcult  to  heal,  which  at  times  I 
Ijiave  had  by  the  dozen  on  my  legs. 

After  having  finished  the  building  of  the  station  at  N*Donima*s,  I 
planted  the  garden  with  European  vegetables  and  had  the  pleasure  of 
eecing  my  crops  sprouting  up,  the  firat  to  ripen  being  excellent  radishes. 
My  people  and  my  baggage  were  now  provided  for,  I  thoroughly 
enjoyed  the  comfortable  home,  which  I  had  created  for  myself  only  for  a 
few  %veeks.  But  a  quiet  life  would  not  harmonise  with  the  plana  I  had 
laid  out  for  myself.  It  wa,s  my  wish  to  make  myself  acquainted 
with  the  surrounding  districta  in  a  series  of  excursions,  leaving  my 
companion  at  the  station  occupied  in  forming  a  collection  of  zoological 
specimens. 

After  two  months'  residence  at  N^Domma's,  I  started,  in  the  month  of 
Augustj  with  only  twenty  bearers  and  the  most  necessary  accoutrements 
and  small  presents  for  the  negro  chiefs.  During  my  reaidence  at 
N'Doruma'a,  I  had  put  myself,  through  messengei^a,  on  good  terms  with 
various  rulers  and  powerful  chiefs  of  the  Niam  Kiam  oonntries,  and  re- 
ceived many  invitations  to  visit  them  in  their  own  territories*  Only  Mbio, 
the  heroditiiry  enemy  of  N'Doruma,  to  the  east  of  the  latter's  ten-itoiy,  a 
powerful  Zandeh  ruler,  refused  me  entrance  into  bis  country,  and  was 
continually  threatening  to  snrprise  and  bum  my  station.  Two  years 
afterwards  bis  power  was  broken  in  a  bloody  war  with  the  troops  of  the 
Government,  and  I  passed  through  his  territory  on  my  flight  before  the 
forces  of  the  Mahdi. 

On  my  tour  from  N*I)oruma  I  reached  the  Welle  for  the  first  time, 
crossed  it,  reached  Mangbattu,  and,  turning  to  the  east  in  a  large  curve, 
recroased  the  Welle.  Traversing  the  territories  of  various  Kiam  Niam 
rulers,  I  again  returned  in  Decjember  of  the  same  year,  after  four 
months*  absence,  to  my  station  at  K'Donima*a.  It  is  not  in  the  plan  of 
this  short  description  t*>  enter  into  details,  I  shall  only  mention  how, 
at  my  first  arrival  at  the  WeUe,  I  was  involved  in  the  hostilities  of  the 
Mangbattu  and  A-Barambo  tribes.  Thongh  shots  bad  already  been 
exchanged,  1  was  euccesiiful  in  my  efforts  to  prevent  an  open  war,  I 
shall  likewise  pass  over  my  stay  at  that  time  witli  Mambanga,  a  Mang- 
battu chief,  and  the  advance  of  N'Donima  with  his  forces  against  the 


SXPLOI&ITIOKS  IN  CENTRAL  AFRICA*  405 

Niam  Niam  chief  Binsa,  to  release  me,  as  he  said,  out  of  the  latter*8 
hands.  This  movement  was  occasioned  by  a  report  spread  abroad  that  I 
was  detained  a  prisoner  by  that  chief.  On  this  occasion,  too,  I  was  able 
to  prevent  hostilities.  Thera  were  at  that  time  several  Government 
stations  in  Mangbattu.  The  unsatisfactory  state  of  things  among  the 
Arabs  there  caused  me  thus  early  to  give  up  my  original  plan  of  moving 
with  my  people  and  my  baggage  thither  after  the  rainy  season. 
Although  I  had  not  returned  to  my  station  at  N'Doruma's  till  December, 
I  had  soon  to  think  of  another  start,  as,  in  the  meanwhile,  the  most 
favourable  season  for  travelling  had  approached.  This  time  I  intended 
to  proceed,  with  all  my  people  and  baggage,  to  the  country  of  tho 
powerful  Niam  Niam  chief  Bakangai,  southwards  from  the  Welle. 

As  early  as  January  1881,  I  was  on  the  way  by  a  new  road  to  the 
south-west,  the  country  of  the  A-Madi,  crossed  the  Welle  there  again, 
and  obtained,  though  with  the  greatest  difficulty,  the  necessary  number 
of  bearers  among  the  A-Barambo.  These  bearers  afterwards  robbed  me 
of  a  part  of  my  goods  and  abandoned  me,  so  that,  for  the  time,  I  had  to 
give  up  all  thoughts  of  travelling  in  this  direction.  Nor  could  I  find 
people  to  carry  my  baggage  back  to  the  Welle.  There  followed  two  months 
full  of  trouble  for  me,  in  which  we  had  to  construct  huts  for  ourselves 
in  the  wilderness,  and  I  was  hardly  able  to  find  provisions  for  my  few 
attendants.  Fears  of  a  night  attack  by  the  A-Barambo  often  deprived 
me  of  sleep.  In  the  meantime  I  had  secretly  sent  word  to  Sahsa,  a 
friendly  Niam  Niam  chief,  who  immediately  came  with  his  people  to 
the  Welle,  and,  in  order  to  avoid  open  hostilities  with  the  A-Barambo, 
through  which  our  lives  would  have  been  endangered,  caused  my  goods 
to  be  carried  back  across  the  Welle  in  small  instalments.  I  myself 
followed  last,  and  with  a  heavy  heart.  I  wished  however,  to  venture  a 
new  advance  later,  with  only  a  small  amount  of  baggage,  by  another 
road.     For  this  reason  I  waited  on  in  the  country  of  the  A-Madi. 

At  the  end  of  April  I  sent  Bohndorff  with  the  baggage,  under  tho 
care  of  the  chief  Sahsa,  into  the  latter's  country,  south  of  the  Mbomii, 
where  he  was  to  establish  another  permanent  station.  In  tho  meantime 
great  changes  had  been  going  on  in  the  Mangbattu  countries.  Emin 
Pasha  had  sent  regular  troops  to  reduce  them  to  order.  Mambango,  tho 
Mangbattu  chief  whom  I  had  visited  the  year  before,  was  at  war  with 
the  Government  troops.  A  lately  erected  station  on  the  Welle  was  hard 
pressed  by  Mambango's  people.  At  the  repeated  request  of  the  Egyptian 
officer  in  charge  there,  who  had  heard  of  my  residence  among  the  A- 
Madi,  I  afterwards  resolved  to  act  as  intermediary  between  Mambango 
and  the  representatives  of  the  Government,  until  reinforcements  arrived 
from  Emin  Pasha.  I  visited  the  chief,  who  was  favourably  disposed 
towards  me,  in  his  camp,  and  according  to  the  custom  of  the  negroes, 
exchanged  blood  with  him  in  token  of  the  ratification  of  the  bond  of 
friendship  between  us.     To  secure  the  safety  of  the  station,  I  remained 


40G 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  CENTIUL  AFRICA. 


some  months  with  the  soldiers.     At  the  end  of  November,  1881,  I  was 
able  to  cany  out  my  plan  of  going  to  Bakangai, 

From  that  time  on  I  was  almost  nninterraptedly  on  the  way,  and  up 
to  June  1882,  carried  ont  all  my  various  exoureione  south  of  the  Welle 
and  Bomokandi,  My  i  u  vest  i  gat  ions  and  enquiries  there  enabled  me 
to  correct  tbo  route  of  the  Italian,  Miani,  which  should  be  J  aid  down 
several  days'  journey  more  south.  The  territory  of  Bakangai,  which 
that  traveller  likewise  visited,  does  not  lie  directly  south  from  the  Welle, 
but  south  from  iia  large  tributary,  the  Bomokandi, 

I  found  a  friendly  reception  on  the  part  of  the  powerful  Niam  Niam 
rhiefs,  Bakangai  and  Kanna,  sons  of  Kipa*  I  there  became  acquainted 
with  many  an  ancient  cuMt4>m  of  the  once  united  Zandoh  people,  customs 
of  which,  among  the  Niam  Kiam  tribes  north  of  the  Welle,  hardly  a 
trace  remains.  Among  these  are  to  be  reckoned  the  honours  they 
afluctionately  pay  to  their  royal  ancestoi-s,  to  whom  they  render  an 
almost  religious  veneration,  Kanna,  for  instance,  kept  up  the  dwellings 
of  his  long  deceased  father,  before  whom  food  was  daily  placed,  and  a 
part  of  the  produce  of  the  chase.  Even  my  presents  to  Ivanna  wero 
carried  into  the  cabins  of  his  dead  father,  a  circumstance  which  I  bad 
reason  to  regret,  as  1  was  afterwards  obliged  to  furnish  others.  For 
three  days  we  remained  with  Kanna  at  the  huta  of  the  dead  Kipa  before 
the  chief  led  me  to  his  own  <lwt3lliugs.  Human  sacrifices  also,  slaves 
taken  in  war,  are  devoted  to  this  worship  of  the  dead.  The  ruling 
chiefs  are  often  moved  by  dreams  and  visions,  in  which  their  dead 
fathers  appear  to  them,  to  engage  in  important  acts,  such  as  wars,  *fec. 
Immorality  on  the  part  of  the  Zandeh  women  ia  often  punished  by  the 
husband  with  the  death  of  the  seducer.  Instead  of  the  punishment  of 
death  for  such  crimes,  as  well  as  fur  theft,  the  culprit  is  often  maimed, 
by  hacking  off  his  two  hands,  liis  fingers,  cutting  off  the  cars,  the  nose, 
or  the  lips.  While  the  men  of  many  negro  tribes  go  completely  naked, 
I  know  no  tribe  whore  the  women  do  not  at  least  make  uso  of  the  leaves 
of  trees.  In  deep  grief,  during  the  time  of  mourning,  they  cast  off* 
these  too. 

The  Mangbattu  wojuan  has  a  comparatively  free  position,  and  a  seat 
in  the  aseemblies  of  the  men.  Thus  the  Mangbattu  chiefs  ivhom  I 
visited  were,  in  their  large  asHund>lies,  always  surrounded  by  their  chosen 
wives.  The  latter  used  frequently  to  come,  without  hindrance,  with 
their  stools  to  my  evening  fire,  where  they  joined  in  tho  chat  and 
laughter.  Their  clothing  is  very  primitive,  and  consists  of  a  j>iece  of 
bark  cloth  which,  in  sitting  down  on  their  stools,  they  lay  over  their 
kneea*  The  wives  of  tho  principal  chiefs,  however,  are  not  satisfied 
w4tb  this  eimple  covering.  These  people  have,  in  consequence,  become 
ingenious,  and  have  succeoiled  in  learDing  how  to  paint  their  bodies 
with  geometrical  lines,  regular  squares,  or  large  round  spots  in  tho  most 
various  ways*     The  liwly  of  a  llangbattu  woman  of  fashion  is  often. 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


407 


only  to  be  compared  with  an  inlaid  floor,  painted  in  tbree  cjoloiira.  As 
individual  fancy  discovers,  from  time  to  time,  new  and  etriking  patterns, 
they  are  always  aldo  to  produce  new  efiFects  with  their  varying  toilets. 
The  fumitnre  of  tlie  toilet  tahle  of  a  Mangbattu  woman  is  of  the 
simplest  kind ;  a  email  pot  of  dark  brown  oil,  from  the  crown  of  the 
oil  palm  ;  a  piece  of  a  broken  dish  with  red,  and  one  with  black,  colonr, 
and  some  pieces  of  wood  to  lay  the  colour  on.  Finally,  a  few  long 
hairpins,  carved  out  of  ivory,  whitk  serve  as  combs  for  their  woolly  hair. 
Besides  the  painting  of  their  bodies,  which  takes  an  exoeesiTely  long 
time,  and  requires  the  help  of  other  hands  than  their  own,  the  women 
spend  hours  in  piling  np  their  hair  in  artificial  knots,  over  six  inches 
high*  In  patience  and  perseverance  at  the  toilet  the  Mangbattu  women 
tjxcel  their  more  civilised  sisters. 

From  tho  territories  of  the  chief  Kanna,  and  that  of  the  aonthern- 
moet  A-Zandeh,  I  passed  over  again  to  the  Mangbattu  territory j  and 
spent  a  short  time  with  the  Italian  traveller  Casati^  at  the  station 
Tangofii.  Tiience  I  passed  to  the  east,  thrtmgh  the  territoriea  of  the 
A-Batigba  Momvn,  cx'oseed  once  more  tho  Bomokandi  to  the  south,  and 
became  acquainted  with  the  tribes  of  the  Madje,  Maigo,  and  Ma^jode,  and 
discovered  there,  on  my  fioiithernmost  journey,  the  river  Nepoko,  which 
I  identify  with  Stanley's  Aniwimi. 

With  Sanga,  a  Mangbattu  chief  living  on  the  Nepoko,  I  spent 
the  hardest  time  I  ever  had  to  go  through  in  Africa.  Wbolly  confined 
to  negro  diet,  my  health  had  suifered.  KumberlesB  sores  on  my  legs 
did  not  heal  for  months.  I  was  at  that  time  in  want  of  every  necessary, 
even  soap,  having  left  all  my  baggage  l>ehind,  on  account  of  swampa, 
which  were  difficult  to  cross.  On  those  excursions  to  the  eoutli  of  the 
Bomokandi,  I  had  tho  satisfaction  of  meeting  with  the  dwarfish  race  of 
the  Akka,  or  Tikki  Tikki,  in  their  settlements.  They  form  Tvandering 
colonies,  and  are  therefore  difficult  to  light  upon,  being  both  timid  and 
suspicious  in  the  exireme;  they  are  excellent  marksmen,  live  almost  ex- 
clusively on  the  produce  of  the  chase,  and  are  very  skilful  in  killing 
the  elephants  with  their  little  arrows. 

On  iMj  travels  I  was  accompanied  for  years  by  two  Tikki  Tikki, 
Bakangai  made  mc  a  present  of  a  stout  little  fellow,  together  with  a 
chimpanzee.  I  afterwards  sent  him,  together  with  my  collections,  into 
the  Babr  el  Ghazal  territory.  Both  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Mahdi's 
people. 

Weak  in  body,  and  still  suflTering  from  sores  on  my  hands  and 
ieet,  I  finally  retniTied  to  the  Tangasi  station  in  Mangbattu,  where,  in 
Casati's  society,  I  allowed  myself  a  month's  repoee.  The  last  excursion 
had  been  very  trying.  There  being  no  paths,  we  followed  the  elephant 
traoke,  and  had  often  been  obliged  to  creep  through  the  thicket  in  a 
stooping  posture.  But,  at  any  rate*  it  had  terminated  my  journeys 
iiouth  of  the  Welle.     After  having  been  separated  from  my  baggage  for 


IPB  explorations  in  central  AFRICA. 

more  than  a  year,  I  felt  a  longing  to  reacli  my  station,  which  BohndorfiT 
had  in  the  meanwhilo  tranHfcrrt  d  from  the  chief  Sahsa's  to  Semio's,  a 
Zandcli  chief  J  living  north  of  the  Mhonm. 

In  Angnst,  1882,  I  left  for  good  the  countries  south  of  the  Welle. 
Crossing  once  more  the  Wtdle-Makua,  I  travelled  by  a  new  way  to  the 
north,  through  the  country  of  the  A-Madi.  I  aftertvards  passed  through 
several  dietricta  of  A-Zandeh  chiefs,  crossi^d  the  Uerre,  a  considerable 
northern  trilmtaiy  of  the  Welle-iMakna,  beyond  the  territory  of  the 
chief  Yapfiti*  and  after  traversing  various  territories  of  minor  chiefs  and 
scattered  tribes,  I  reaohe^l  the  Mbomu,  and  beyond  it,  at  the  end  iif 
September  1882,  my  new  station  at  Semio. 

Amongst  fnll  chests  and  long  Diiased  necessanes  which  can  make 
life  tolerable  even  in  those  remote  region  a,  I  soon  forgot  all  my  sufferings. 
My  companion  had  often  been  ill  in  the  conreo  of  the  year,  and  wished 
to  retnrn  to  Europe.  I  at  once  set  to  work  packing  up  the  collections 
which  he  was  to  take  with  hiiu.  In  Oetol>er  he  started  for  the  Bahr  ©1 
Ghazal  territory,  where,  in  the  meanwhile,  Lnpton  Bey  had  become 
governor,  I  myself  intended  to  start  on  my  travels  again  in  November 
and  explore  the  ground  to  the  west.  At  tho  same  time,  I  wished  to 
follow  the  course  of  tho  Wello-Makua  further.  A  sad  misfortune  at 
this  time  deprived  me  of  a  part  of  the  valuable  property  of  which  I  had 
hitherto  been  very  sparing.  A  fire  that  broke  out  in  tlie  station  burnt 
down  three  huts,  and  destroyed  a  considerable  part  of  my  gooils.  Before 
departing  again  from  Semio,  I  received  news  from  Lnpton  Be}'  that  tho 
Dinka  tril*ea  had  revolted*  and  that  the  way  to  Jlcshra  er  Rek  would 
therefore  be  closed  for  some  time.  This  was  in  October  1882,  the  com- 
mencement of  long  uninterrupted  and  bloody  ware  in  tho  Bahr  el  Ghazal 
territory,  on  which  finally  the  invitsion  of  the  Mahdi'e  troops  followed. 

My  companion,  Bohndorff,  was  theref^^re  obliged  to  return  to  our 
station  at  Semio,  not  having  been  able  tu  proceed  U>  Meshra  er  Rek. 
[n  the  beginning  of  December  1  had  again  started  for  the  south,  so  that 
Bohndorff  arrived  two  late  to  ^ee  mo.  On  iny  last  tourj  which  did  not 
end  till  the  let  of  I^Iay,  1883,  1  travelled  fii-st  to  the  south-west  and 
reached  the  Welle-Makua  in  tho  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  spot 
where  two  of  its  principal  tributaries  join  it,  the  Uon*o  from  the  north, 
and  the  Mbima  from  the  south.  On  this  trip,  as  well  as  still  further 
to  the  west,  I  was  traversing  the  broad  territories  of  the  Bandyia, 
According  to  their  language  they  are  a  Zandeh  tribe  j  but  they  them- 
selves  boast  of  an  independent  descent,  and  will  admit  to  have  nothing 
in  common  with  the  A-55andeh.  On  the  numberless  islands  of  the  Welle- 
Makua,  I  became  acipiainted  with  the  A-Btissango,  with  a  language  of 
their  own.  The  south  bank  of  the  Makua  is  inhabited  in  that  neigh- 
Uonrhood  by  tribes  of  the  A-Babiia.  It  would  lead  mo  too  far  here  to 
mention  all  tho  tribes  and  peoples  that  I  came  in  oontaot  with  per- 
sonally, or  heard  of. 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


409 


On  tlie  last  great  advance  towarda  the  west,  I  onoe  more  reached 
the  Welle-Makua,  at  a  place  where,  as  in  the  former  case,  it  is  divided 
into  man  J  channels  hj  the  niimberlesB  islands  in  its  bed,  whence  it  is 
impossible  to  estimate  its  breadth.  The  Mbomu  is  said  to  join  the  Welle- 
Makim  five  or  six  days*  journey  moro  to  tho  west.  Making  a  large  bend 
to  the  north,  I  eroMed  the  Mbomu,  which  at  that  part  is  a  broad, 
navigable  stream.  From  the  north  it  receives  the  Shinko,  to  which,  in 
its  tnm,  the  Gongo  Lowa  is  a  tiibtitary,  I  passed  throngh  the  Dar 
Banda,  reached  the  station  Mbanga  (the  former  seat  of  Mofio  as  given  on 
Schweinfurth's  map),  crossed  the  territories  of  various  scattered  tribes 
of  the  Biri,  the  A-Kale,  &c.,  and,  coming  from  the  north  this  time, 
arrived  at  my  station  at  Semio  on  the  1st  of  May,  1883. 

Shortly  before  my  arrival,  Bohndorff  had  again  started  for  the  Bahr 
el  Ghazal  territoiy,  Lnpton  at  that  time  having  hopes  of  quelling  the 
insurrection  of  the  Dinka  tribes.  Xearly  all  the  stations  in  the  Bandj'ia 
territory  had  been  called  in  during  my  last  tour,  and  the  garrisons  sent 
by  Lupton  Bey  to  the  Bahr  el  Ghazal  province  to  put  down  the  insurgent 
Dinka.  I  now  regarded  my  travels  as  finished,  aod  intended  likewise 
in  a  short  time  to  start  for  the  Bahr  el  Ghazal.  Bnt  it  was  oot  to  be. 
After  my  return  to  Semio  I  had  packed  up  my  goods  and  my  fresh 
Collections,  and  was  only  waiting  for  better  news  from.  Lupton  Bey, 

But  in  the  courKC  of  the  next  few  montlis  things  became  worse  instead 
of  better.  Though  he  had  collected  all  hia  available  troops  from  the 
outlying  stations,  Lupton  did  not  succeed  in  putting  do\\*ii  the  Dinka, 
These  were  afterwards  joined  by  the  Nuehr,  the  Agahr,  and  various  tribes 
on  the  Roid.  The  Dinka,  as  Lupton  Bey  then  wrote  to  me,  made  an 
exoellent  use  of  the  guns  that  had  fallen  into  their  hands*  It  was  a 
trying  time  for  Lupton.  I  frequently  recei%'ed  communications  from 
him  from  all  parts  of  his  province,  accordiug  to  his  mo%*ement«  against 
the  rebels.  But  he  held  his  own  with  the  greatest  bravely.  Full 
justice  has  till  now  not  been  done  him  by  the  public,  and  for  a  very 
intelligible  reason.  People  were  in  complete  ignorance  of  all  that  had 
been  going  on  in  hitt  province.  The  eighteen  months'  war  of  the  Dinka 
against  Lupton's  troops  was  far  moro  bloody  and  exhausting  for  both 
parties  than  the  later  engagements  against  the  troops  of  the  Mahdi  in 
Em  in  Pasha's  province. 

After  these  exhausting  wars  against  the  Dinkas,  who  had  been 
finally  supported  by  the  Mahdi's  forces,  Lupton,  betrayed  by  those  about 
him,  was  -compelled  to  deliver  his  province  without  resistance  to  the 
emissary  of  the  Mahdi,  the  Emir  Karm  Allah.  The  chief  cause  of  this 
surrender  is  to  be  sought  in  the  fact,  that  Lupton  had  almost  exclusively 
only  irregular  troops  at  his  disposal,  a  rascally  mob  that  Gessi  had 
already  begun  to  sweep  off  out  of  the  country,  after  the  war  with 
Soliman  Bey.  These  irregulars  consist  of  Dongoia  people,  and  Arabs  of 
all  kinds,  who  were  certainly  of  some  use  in  a  war  against  the  infidel 


410 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


negroes,  but  who  very  naturally  aLantloixed  Lupton  Bey  whenever  they 
were  [isked  to  marcli  against  men  of  the  same  faith. 

In  Emin  Pasha's  province  matters  Btood  differently »  There  the 
regnlar  troops  formed  the  majority.  These  are  driUed  negro  soldierB, 
whoj  besides,  jnortally  hate  the  Arabs,  asd  are  always  ready  to  fight 
with  them.  Thus  the  next  few  mouths  were  passed  at  Semio  in  anxious 
cxjiectation  of  the  igsne  of  events.  On  the  1st  of  August,  1883,  I  made 
the  following  entry  in  ni}^  diary : — **  All  my  hoi^es  of  reachiog  home  this 
year  have  come  to  nothing.  Thanks  to  Lupton's  frequent  communica- 
tionsj  I  have  been  kept  well  informed  as  to  the  state  of  things  in  the 
Bahr  el  Ghazal  province.  Our  eyes  are  turned  with  longing  apprehension 
to  the  north  whence  we  anxiouslj^  exjject  help.  The  steamer  from 
Khartum  has  not  yet  been  heard  of.  What  will  the  immediate  future 
bring  us  ?  Lupton*s  last  news  is  ominous,  Hassan  Mubsat  killed,  and 
nixty  muskets  again  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  rebels !  The  way  to 
Meshra  er  Rek  again  closed  through  the  insurrection »  and  900  muskets 
despatched  to  open  it  up  again.  My  fears  with  regard  to  the  people  on 
the  Bohl  and  the  Eumbehk  station  huve  been  eonfinned,  for  Lupton 
writes; — VEumbohk  destroyed,  only  six  soldiers  escaped.'  Furthermoro, 
Lupton's  account  of  the  disposition  of  the  Arabs  in  the  Mudirieh,  and  the 
flight  of  thirty  Dongola  men  and  some  leading  Faki  to  the  Mahdif 
Finally,  should  the  incredible  happt^ii*  and  the  Arabs  Lard  pressed  from 
the  north  ovemm  the  Bahr  el  Ghazal  province,  there  would  remain  for 
us  only  flight  to  the  soutfa.  Oh  for  help  from  Khartum  1  '*  I  had  already 
induced  Semio,  whom  I  knew  to  be  a  faithful  adhereut  of  the  Govern- 
ment, to  establish  trustworthy  outlooks  on  his  frontiers  towards  the 
north,  especially  from  the  station  Mbanga.  Through  spies  I  Tvas  con- 
tinuall}^  receiving  inforraation  about  tlie  attitude  which  the  noighbotinng 
trihes  assumed  towards  the  insurj  ection  of  the  Dlnka. 

Lupton  whites  me  under  date  of  the  10th  of  August ;  "No  steamer 
yet  1  If  one  does  not  come  soon  with  anj munition  for  me,  it  will  soon  be 
all  over  with  everybody  here.  Satti  (Lupton's  sub-governor)  has  set 
out  once  more  with  700  men  to  Meshra,  and  I  hope  to  God  he  may  find 
the  garrison  there  alive.  I  entertain  grave  appvohonsions  about  them, 
Some  thousands  of  negroes,  Dink  as  and  Nnehr,  attacked  the  station  at 
Gohk,  Wo  lost  500  men,  but  the  enemy  far  more.  After  three  days' 
iighting  the  negroes  weie  driven  off  by  the  reservew  that  haj^tened  up 
from  Bjnr  Ghattas," 

At  last  in  October,  I  received  news  that  a  steamer  from  Khartum  bad 
amved  at  Meshra.  In  spite  of  the  unfavourable  state  of  afiEairs,  I  was 
at  that  time  about  to  start  to  jt^in  Lupton,  in  order  to  be  ahle>  to  avail 
myself  of  the  next  steamer  to  Khartum,  For  this  purpose  I  set  out  from 
my  station  with  all  my  baggage,  I  prudently  remained  to  await  further 
news  in  company  with  tSemio,  to  hunt  for  several  weeks  in  a  district 
which  we  passed  through  on  the  way,  where  game  wa»  abundant.     Tldft 


* 


EXPLORATIONS  IK  CIIKTKaL  AFKICA. 


ill 


was  a  very  fortanAte  circtunatance  for  me,  I  elioiild  oUtttiriae  hmT» 
undoubtcdl  J  liad  to  share  with  Lupton  and  Slatin«  the  misfortniie  of  now 
finding  myself  a  prisoner  amongst  the  Mahdi*8  people,  A  kind  Frovi* 
dence  protected  me  now,  as  well  as  afterwards,  in  the  hard  Umes  that 
followed,  and  always  pointed  ont  the  proper  way  out  of  all  trDnbles.  On 
the  31st  of  October,  Lupton  wrote  me  a  few  lines  as  follows:—**  I  shaU 
write  yon  further  particulars  in  a  few  days.  We  have  had  heavy 
losses  to  suffer.  I  have  lost  Rafai  (Lupton's  best  leader),  and  400  of  his 
soldiers  were  killed  by  the  Dinka.  Mudir  Satti  is  fighting  his  way  witli 
800  men  to  Meshra  el  £ek."  I  must  add,  that  even  thus  early,  Arab 
tribes  firom  the  north  were  making  common  cause  with  the  Dinka,  were 
hounding  them  on«  and  afterwards  fighting  in  their  ranks*  From  that 
time  the  Mahdi  infiuence  from  the  north  became  more  and  more  par- 
oeptible,  otherwise  the  Dinka  tribes  could  never  have  held  out  so  long- 
After  this  news  Irom  Lupton  X  wns  again  oondemned  to  a  painful 
period  of  expectation.  I  became  more  and  more  reconciled  to  the  idea 
of  making  my  escape,  in  case  of  necessity,  by  ^vsy  of  Lado.  A  few 
days  afterwards  I  received  further  particulars  from  Lupton  as  follows : 
"  I  beg  you  to  do  your  best  to  persuade  Semio  to  collect  about  lOOO  of 
his  people  with  spear  and  shiold,  as  well  as  all  those  who  have  guns, 
imad  oome  to  my  help*  I  now  see  no  other  way  of  putting  down  the 
>  insurrection  than  by  the  help  of  the  Niam  Niam  chiefs.  I  am  now 
collecting  Bongo  people  here,  who  will  march  with  us  against  the 
Dinkas,  Do  everything  in  your  power  to  jiersuad©  Semio  to  lose  no 
time,  and  send  him  to  meet  me  as  soon  as  possible.  Bohndorff  is  here, 
but  I  am  afraid  I  shall  not  be  able  to  send  him  to  Meshra.** 

Such  were  my  prospects  after  six  mouths  of  long  and  anxious 
expectation.  I  was,  however,  glad  to  fintl  Semio  ready  to  hasten  at  once 
to  Lupton's  help.  He  took  the  necessary  steps  immediately.  I  myself 
^  began  to  prepare  to  truverback  through  the  broad  Niam  Niam  country, 
!  by  N'Doruma  to  Makaraka  and  Lado.  But  first  I  wanted  to  see  Bemio 
start  with  his  people  to  Lupton.  I  urged  him  to  hapten  every  day,  but 
eight  days  passed  before  the  people  were  collectetl  and  set  out  under  his 
leadership. 

On  the  16th  of  November,  1883,  I  began  my  journey  to^  the  east, 
and  reached  Emin  Pasha  at  Lado  in  January  1884,  after  55  days*  march. 
After  my  departure,  having  been  provided  with  guns  and  ammunition 
by  the  steamer,  Lupton  Bey  had  some  success  in  his  long-continued  war. 
Bchndorff  was  able  to  travel  to  Khartum  with  the  steamer,  returning 
thither  at  the  end  of  Decemljer,  but  all  my  collections  remained  behind 
in  thoBahr  el  Ghazal  province  for  want  of  bearers,  and  were  afterwards 
lost.  With  that  steamer  I  received  my  last  letters  from  Europe,  dated 
May  1883,  Up  to  March  1886,  when  I  received,  at  Uuyoro,  the  first  news 
of  the  events  of  the  last  years  in  the  Sudan,  wo  romained  nearly 
three  years  in  the  dark,  as  to  what  was  going  on.     Wo  could  give  no 


112 


EXFLORATfONS  IN  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


credit  to  tho  threatening  letters  the  Mahdi's  people  seEt  tie,  tlioiigli, 
imfoi'timately,  miicli  of  their  contents  tiiraetl  ont  afterwards  to  he  hut 
too  true, 

Emin  Pashus  province  liad    been  quiet  up  to  the  first  months  of 
1884.     The  insurgent  Agahrs  had  been  energetically  put  down,  and  the 
devastated  station  Kumbehk  at  once  set  up  again  in  order  to  restore' 
commnnicatiou  with  the  Bahr  ol  GhazaL     In  vain  we  waited  in  Lado 
Ibr  tbo  arrival  of  a  steamer.     Tho  successes  of  the  Dinkaa  were  too 
tempting  for  the  other  negro  tribes,  and  so  in  Emin  Pasha's  province 
also  the  rebellion  assumed  more  formidable  proportions*     In  February 
1884,  Ghebft  Shambe,  with  tho  whole  garrison,  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 
negroes.     The  station  Bor  too,  had,  later  on,  a  hard  struggle  to  sustain, 
and  finally  not  only  the  garrison,  but  also  the  troops  hastening  to  its 
help,  were  all  put  to  the   sword.     In  cousideratiou  of  theso  circum- 
stances Emin  Pasha  gave  order*  to  give  up  all  stations  in  Latuka,  east 
of  the  Nile,  and  drew  his  troops  nearer  together.     After  many  letters 
from  Lupton  in  tho  first  months  of  1884,  in  which  ho  s|>eaks  confidently 
of  his  sncoeases  against  the  rcl>elfls  we  were  without  any  news  from  him 
for  a  long  timo.     At  last,  on  tho  23rd  of  May,  we  received  letters  from 
him,  dated  tlie  3rd,  7th  and  12th  of  April.     In  the  last  letter  he  says  : 
"  The  army  of  the  Mahdi  is  btit  nix  bonrs  from  the  Mudirieh.     I  &hall 
fight  to  the  last  moment.     If  I  fjill  send  my  last  rememlirances  to  those 
dear  to  me."     Lupton  enclosed  tbe  copy  of  a  long  threatening  letter  in 
Arabic  to  the  people  of  Bahr  cl  Ghazal,  meant  to  convert  tho  people  to 
belief  in  Mohamed  Ahmed  tho  Mahdi.     With  heavy  hearts,  we  spent 
the  following  days  with  Emin  Pasha.     But  wo  were  not  to  remain  long 
in  uncertainty.     Tbe  news  received  at  the  same  time  of  the  dcKtruction 
of  Hicks  Pasha's  army  could  not  remain  a  secret  to  the  people  of  the 
|>rovince.     The  most  various  reports  were  already  in  circnlation  about 
it.     Tbe  destruction  of  Hicks  Pasha's  army  had  now  to  serve  us  as  an 
explanation  why  no  steamer  had  been  sent  from  Khartum,  in  spite  of 
Lupton's  last  pressing  reports   in   December,     On  the  27t]i  of  May, 
Emin  Pasha  3n%^ited  me  early  in  the  morning  to  his  divan.     Full  of 
troubled  thoughts  I  hastened  to  bim.     Letters  from  the  Eabr  cl  Ghazal 
province  lay  open  before  him.     With  streaming  eyes  he  handed  me  one 
addressed  to  myself.     The  inevitable  misfortune  had  happened.     The 
Bahr  cl  Ghazal  province  was  in  the  hands  of  the  Mahdi's  troops.     The 
letters  which  had   come   in   were  from   a  certain  Emir  Kami   Allah, 
representative  of  the  Mahdi,    in    whoso   name   he   had   occupied   the 
province.     In  a  long  letter  to  Emin  Paslia  he  demanded  of  the  latter 
the  surrender  of  his  province  likow^ise*     A  second  letter  in  Lupton's 
name,  \irritten  in  Arabic,  coufirmod  the  surrender  of  the  Bahr  el  Ghazal 
province.     This   letter    had   Lupton's    seal  to  it,  and  the  following 
words  in  English  :  **  I  helieve  all  that  is  written  above  to  be  true.     But 
as  you  aro  older  and  more  expci  ienced  than  I,  I  shall  give  you  no  advice 
as  to  what  is  to  he  done," 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  CENTRAL  AFRICA, 


418 


Various  threaten  in  g  letters  to  th©  officials  of  the  province  sought  to 
Convert  the  people  to  believe  in  the  Mahdi,  There  was  likewise  a  circular 
to  the  entire  Mahommedan  populiition  from  Mohamed  Ahmed,  the  Mahdi. 

In  th©  letter  from  Emir  Kann  Allah  to  Em  in  Paeha,  tho  latt^.r  was 
required  to  come  inimeilialely  with  his  people  into  tlio  Bahr  el  Ghazal 
territory,  to  start  on  his  journey  to  Kordofan,  to  tho  Mahdi.  Lupton 
wrote  in  a  few  words  to  me»  that  he  was  to  set  out  in  a  few  daj^  to 
Mohamed  Ahmed,    Emir  Karm  Allah's  letter  to  mo  was  as  follows  : — 


'*29th  Dfumad  Acliir,  1300, 
**In  the  name  of  God  the  All-merciful,  &c.,  &c.  The  slave  of 
<Tod,  Emir  Karm  Allali,  Sheikh  Mohamed,  to  Dr.  Junker  the  traveller. 
After  my  greetings  to  you  I  give  you  to  know,  O  traveller !  you 
have  certainly  heard  that  the  times  have  changed,  and  that  tho  power 
of  the  Turks  is  broken,  through  the  appearance  of  the  successor  of  the 
Prophet  of  God,  whom  we  have  expected,  our  Lord  Mohamed  el  Mahdi, 
all  hail  to  him  !  You  have  aUo  heard  how  he  has  rei>eatodly  destroyed 
the  armies  of  the  Turks,  Finst,  at  the  island  of  Ola ;  secondly,  tlie  army 
whoso  leader  w^as  Eashid  Bey,  called  Abu  Euka,  the  Mudir  of  Fashoda ; 
thirdly,  tho  large  army  under  the  command  of  Yuauf  Pasha  es  Shelali, 
and  vdth  him  experienoed  and  skilful  people,  to  the  number  of  9000 
men  ;  fourthly,  the  army  under  the  command  of  Mohamed  Pasha  Imam, 
to  the  number  of  12,000  men;  fifthly,  the  conquest  of  the  Mudirieh  of 
Kordofanj  sLxthly,  the  army  of  the  (lOvenior-General  of  the  Sudan, 
Aladdin  Pasha ^  an  officer  of  the  Staff  called  Ilicks,  and  a  number  of 
Mudirs  and  officers,  and  with  them  strange  cannon,  seven  of  them  five- 
grooved  mitrailleuses,  and  among  them  seven  Krupp  cannon,  and  tho 
remainder  well-tried  cannon  from  tho  time  of  Ismail  Pasha.  Altogether 
36  cannon,  and  seven  rocket  batteries,  and  altogether  36,000  men  and 
more;  and  all  were  killed  hy  the  followers  of  the  Mahdi,  all  hail  to 

'  him  I  how  in  the  twinkliog  of  an  eye  took  place  the  conquest  of  all  the 
Mndiriebs  of  tho  Sudan,  and  their  subjection  under  the  sway  of  tho 
Mahdi ;  how  tho  Mudiriehs  of  Dongola,  Berber,  Khartum,  Taka,  Sonaar, 

'  and  Fashoda,  and  in  the  west,  Fasher,  Kolkol,  Korkobik,  and  others, 
have  become  friends  of  the  Mahdi,  all  hail  to  him  !  And  he  sent  me  aa 
his  representative  from  his  sfde,  provided  with  orders  and  commands 
under  his  sacred  seal,  to  the  Bahr  el  Ghazal  province,  to  bring  it  from 
the  darkness  into  the  light ;  and  on  Tuesday  the  20 th  of  the  current 
month  of  this  year  we  arrived  at  tho  principal  town  of  tho  Mudirioh 
Bahr  el  Ghazal,  and  were  received  by  all  the  authorities  and  the  Mudir, 
and  all  subjected  to  the  commands  of  the  Mahdi,  all  hail  to  him  I  and 
ready  to  travel  with  me  to  Kurdofan;  and  as  you  have  goods  lying  here 
(Emir  Karm  Allah  meant  my  collections  lying  thero)jand  as  I  am  a&aid 
that  the  roads  vdll  remain  closed  to  you  fur  the  future,  I  have  addreseed 
these  directions  to  you,  that  you  may  start  at  receipt  of  this,  and  como 


414 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


her©  and  receive  your  goods  withont  delay,  and  if  not,  the  goods  will 
certainly  be  abandoned  and  lost,  and  in  conclusion  my  greetinp^s. 


Beal 


o 


Karm  Allah  Mohamed." 


Emir  Eann  Allah's  letter  about  the  surrender  of  the  province  received 
a  carefully  worded  answer  from  Emin Pasha,  that  he  was  ready  to  deliver 
the  province  into  the  ban  da  of  the  representative  of  the  Mahdi  in  order 
to  prevent  uselesiS  bloodfihed.  The  hostility  of  the  negroes,  however, 
such  was  the  further  tenor  of  the  letter,  did  not  pemiit  Erain  Fasha  to 
leave  the  province  and  expose  all  that  remained  behind  to  the  danger  of 
destruction.  Emin  Paaha  would  therefore  wait  for  further  orders  and 
a  representative.  Till  then  he  should  try  to  hold  the  province  for  the 
Mahdi. 

Erom  the  great  distanoe  of  the  Bahr  el  Ghazal  province,  Emin  Pasha 
gained  time,  which  was  above  all  things  necessary.  Possibly,  on  the 
one  hand  help  might  come  from  Khartum,  on  the  other  hand  outlying 
stations  might  bo  called  in  and  a  defence  organised.  For  this  purpose 
orders  were  at  once  given.  Socm  after  this,  in  order  to  despatch  our 
letters  to  Uganda  and  Zanzibar,  I  travelled  to  Kmin  Pasha's  southern 
stations^  and  reuiained  for  a  considerable  time  at  Dafli.  About  this 
timo  the  negro  tribes  on  the  route  to  the  Bahr  el  Ghazal  rose  and  killed 
many  Arabs,  who,  in  various  bands  from  Makaraka  and  the  Eohl  terri- 
tory, "wt^ro  marching  to  join  Emir  Karm  Allah.  Other  hordes  of  Arabs 
began  hostilities  against  some  outlying  stations  not  yet  called  in,  and 
finally,  in  the  last  months  of  the  year  1884,  besieged  the  fortified 
station  of  Amadi,  only  five  days  from  Lado.  In  the  hope  that  a 
steamer  would  at  last  come  from  Khartum,  I  returned  to  Lado  in 
September.  For  months  we  had  heard  nothing  more  of  the  Mahdi's 
forces,  and  were  almost  giving  ourselves  up  to  the  hope  that  Emir 
Karm  Allali's  men  had  withdrawn  to  Kordofan.  The  besiegers  of  the 
Amadi  station  had,  up  to  the  end  of  the  year,  several  times  received 
reinforcementa  of  Arabs.  Once  they  had  been  driven  back  with  loss, 
till  all  at  once,  in  January  1 885,  we  beard  that  the  Emir  Kann  Allah 
had  appeared  with  his  troops  before  Amadi.  Once  more  letters  camo 
to  Emin  Pasha,  and  threatening  letters  to  various  people.  At  that 
time  I  had  again  started  for  the  soutb,  to  the  chief  Anfina,  in  th© 
country  of  the  Magungos,  on  the  Victoria  Kile.  During  a  residence  of 
some  months  I  endeavoured  to  despatch  thence  our  letters  to  Uganda,. 
In  April  I  received  news  from  Emin  Pasha  that  the  station  Amadi  was 
taken,  and  that  a  part  of  the  gaiTJson  had  cut  their  way  through  to 
Makaraka.  ^Yith  tho  help  of  the  soldiers  from  Mangbattu,  the  pursuing 
Arabs  were  soon  put  to  flight,  after  a  hard  struggle,  at  the  station  Bimo, 
in  Makaraka.  Makaraka  was,  however^  evacuated,  and  the  soldiers, 
reached  the  Nile  at  the  station  Beddeo,  whence  they  were  immediately 


EXPLORATIONS  IK  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


All 


ordered  to  Lado  to  the  defence  of  the  station.     Emir  Kann  AUahj  after 
tho  fall  of  the  station  Amadi,  notified  to  Emin  Pasha  that  ho  should 
fioon  appear  before  Lado,  and  sent  on  this  occasion,  among  odiers,  the 
!  following  letter : — 

*'  nth  Eahi  Af'hir,  1302, 
"  Copy  of  a  gracious  order  of  our  Lord  the  Mahdi — ail  hail  to  him ! 
to  his  representative  Karm  Allah,  Sheikh  Mohamcd,  Emir  of  the  Bohr 
el  Ghazal,  and  the  Hat  el  Estwa  (Equatorial  Province),  dated  the  12th 
Eabi  Achir,  1302  (2sth  January,  1885).  In  the  name  of  God,  the  All- 
MercifnU  the  All-Pitiful!  Praise  to  God,  our  gracious  Lord!  and  oui* 
prayers  and  submission  to  our  Lord  Mohamed  and  his !  And  after  these  1 
Prom  God*fi  dtjvoted  slave,  Mohamed  el  Mahdi,  son  of  Abdallah,  to  his 
dear  friend  and  representative  Karm  Allah,  son  of  the  Sheikh  Mohamed, 
ivhom  God  in  Ilis  goodness  enlighten  and  protect  with  the  eye  of  His 
'vdlll  Amen.  Receive  from  me  many  greetings,  and  the  mercy  of  God, 
iind  His  blessing  on  thee  I  I  give  thee  to  know,  my  dear  friend,  that 
according  to  God's  infallible  promise  and  His  unchangeable  goodness, 
the  town  of  Khartum  has  been  taken  by  the  help  of  the  Living  and 
Hverlasting  One,  and  indeed  on  Monday  the  9  th  of  Habi  Achir  of  the 
current  year,  early  in  the  morning,  through  the  help  of  the  troops  of 
the  Faith,  who  advanced  and  stormed  the  works,  trusting  in  God,  the 
Lord  of  the  Worlds  and  in  about  half  an  hour,  or  less,  there  befell  the 
enemies  of  God  what  was  appointed  fur  them :  tbey  were  destroyed  tci 
the  last  man,  and  their  fortress;  though  they  had  prepared  theinselves 
in  their  btrengtb,  they  fell  scattered  at  the  first  attack  on  the  field,  under 
the  hands  of  the  Army  of  God  and  tbe  troops  of  the  Faith,  and  sought 
safety  by  entering  into  courtyards  and  closing  the  gates.  Our  army 
followed  them,  and  killed  them  with  the  sword,  and  pierced  them  with 
the  lance,  so  that  lamentations  soon  were  loud,  and  weeping  increased, 
4ind  they  were  all  subdued.  Then  they  laid  hold  on  the  rest,  who  had 
ehut  their  doors  from  fear  of  the  approach  of  harm,  and  took  them 
<;aptive  and  killed  them,  and  there  remained  of  them  only  a  few  women 
land  children. 

"  But  Gordon,  the  enemy  of  God,  how  often  soever  we  have  exhorted 
liim,  and  bidden  him  cea8e»  and  submit  himself  to  God,  yet  he  never 
would,  and  indeed,  because  he  was  a  rebel  and  a  disturber  froui  iho 
beginning.  So  ho  found  the  end  of  his  fate,  and  reaped  with  repentance 
what  he  had  sown  in  crime ;  and  God  banished  him  to  the  house  of  His 
wrath,  his  abiding  place ;  and  so  the  multitude  of  the  ungodly  were 
^lestroyed,  and  thanks  be  to  God  therefore,  the  Lord  of  the  World ;  and 
to  whomsoever  has  deserved  it,  may  fire  be  appointed  as  a  punishment, 
or  Paradise  as  an  abiding  place,  through  God's  appointment;  and  God 
preserve  thee  from  the  reprobate  I  Amen  I  with  tlie  consent  of  the 
Most  High  and  Mighty,  the  Sender  of  all  Good.  And  of  our  followei-s 
ten  died  the  death  of  the  Faith  in  this  conquest,  and  of  the  others  none 
No.  VIL-4PLY  1887.]  2  n 


41C 


EXPLORATIONS  IK  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


were  wounded  or  111111.  And  tliis  ia  on©  of  the  mercies  of  God,  and  from 
Him  is  the  victory*  and  we  have  thrown  onrselves  on  the  earth  to  thank 
Him  for  the  victory  of  the  Faith,  And  do  thou  likewise  and  receive  my 
greetings. 

**  TIte  represeniatlve  of  the  MaMi  in  BaJtr  el 
Ghazal  ajid  Sat  el  E»iica^ 
**  KjtEM  Allah," 


Before  thiB,  Em  in  Pasha  had  sent  the  divan,  with  the  writers  and  their 
families,  the  Government  hooks  and  documents  from  Lado  to  Dufliy 
whither  he  then  followed  himself,  and  afterwards  remained  at  Wadelai- 
After  the  last  organisation  of  the  concentrated  troops,  about  150O 
soldiers  were  distribnted  among  the  gfations,  Lado,  Regaf,  Bcdden,  Kiri, 
Muggi,  Lahoro,  Chor  Ain,  Dufli,  Wadelay,  and  Fatiko.  After  the  fall 
of  the  station  Araadi,  the  insnrgents  were  daily  expected  before  Lado. 
But  news  soon  came  that  they  had  returned  to  the  Bahr  el  Gbazal  by 
forced  marches,  a  circumstance  at  that  time  inexpIiealdB  to  ns,  after  the 
advantages  they  had  gained.  Perhaps  the  Malidi  had  given  the  Emir 
Karm  Allah  special  orders  on  the  advance  of  the  English  at  the  time  of 
the  fall  of  Khartum.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  fiom  this  time  forward,  Em  in 
Piisha's  province  wf^s  no  longer  molested  by  attacks  of  the  troops  of  the 
Mahdi.  Some  lat'cr  hostilities  and  attacks  of  the  Bari  negroes  were  re- 
pulsed by  the  soldiers  of  Lado  and  Regaf.  1  returned  in  Kovember 
1885,  from  Anfuia  to  Wadelai,  as  I  bad  found  out  that  all  our  letters  to 
Uganda  by  this  route  were  intercepted.  On  the  2nd  of  January,  1886,  I 
left  Emin  Pasha  and  Casati,  the  Italian  traveller,  for  the  thii-d  and  last 
time.  Crossing  the  Albert  Nyanza  Lake,  I  went  on  to  Kibiro,  and  to 
Kabrega's,  king  of  Unyoro.  Here,  at  last,  I  succeeded  in  learning  with, 
certainty,  that  there  was  still  a  missionary  station  at  Uganda.  After 
much  trouble  I  managed  to  put  myself  into  secret  communication  with 
them  by  writing.  The  first  letters  from  the  missionary  Mackay,  in 
Uganda,  brought  mo  lieuter's  telegrams^  about  the  events  in  the  fSudan^ 
gathered  together  in  the  course  of  two  years,  fuither,  a  letter  from  His 
Excellency,  Nubar  Pasha,  for  Emin  Pasha,  a  letter  from  Sir  John  Kirk^ 
English  Consul-General,  at  Zanzibar,  and  one  from  Said  Burghasb,  Sultan 
of  Zanzibar.  This  joyful  day  for  me  occurred  in  the  month  of  March 
last  year.  At  the  same  time  Mackay  wrote  me,  that  Muanga,  king  of 
Uganda,  had  caused  the  English  bishop,  Hannington,  to  be  murdered, 
and  that  Dr.  Fischer's  expedition,  sent  out  by  my  brother  to  seek  me,  had 
not  received  permission  to  pass  through  Uganda.  Mackay  advised  me  te- 
nse the  greatest  caution  and  patience,  and  not  to  enter  Uganda  i-ashly^ 

Thus,  to  tho  many  sufferings  I  had  already  undergone,  there  was^ 
added  a  forced  halt  of  some  months  on  the  borders  of  Uganda.  During 
this  time  I  was  severely  injured  by  an  nnfortnnate  accident,  and,  to 
crown  all,  I  was  deserted  by  my  bearers*    In  the  meantime  war  had 


EXPLORATIONS  IX  CENTRAL  AFRICA.— DISCnSSION,  417 

■broken  out  between  tlit^  Wa-ganda  and  the  Wa-njoro.  Thus  it  was  not 
till  the  month  of  Jiina,  after  I  had  already  been  given  ont  for  dead  in 
TTganda,  that  I  received  King  Muanga^e  permission  to  enter  his  capitaL 
I  there  fonnd  an  opportunity  to  fmrchase  2000  dollars*  worth  of  cloth 
from  Arab  dealers,  for  Emin  Pasha  to  make  dresses  for  bis  men,  who  in 
the  last  few  years  had  only  been  able  to  cover  themselves  with  skins. 
From  Uganda  my  way  led  me  in  a  month  and  a  half  over  the  Victoria 
Nyanza^  a  passage  which,  on  account  of  violent  contrary  winds,  lasted 
26  days.  I  then  held  on  southwards  to  Tabora,  a  great  emporium  of 
the  Arab  traders  from  Zanzibar.  I  there  joined  the  great  ivory  caravan 
of  TippQ  Tip,  the  well-known  ivory  dealer  of  Central  Africa^  and 
reached  the  coast  in  his  company.  Unfortunately^  the  close  of  my 
jotuney  was  marked  by  a  bloody  mnrder.  A  German,  H.  Giesecke, 
representative  of  the  great  Hamburg  firm,  A,  Meyer,  for  ivory,  who 
likewise  had  placed  himself  under  the  protection  of  Tippo  Tip,  in 
order  to  reach  the  corist,  w^as  shot  one  night  close  beside  my  tent  by 
hired  murderers.  The  occasion  of  the  crime  was  undoubtedly  the 
jealousy  of  the  Arab  traders  of  Tabora  that  Europeans  began  to  com- 
jH^te  with  them  in  the  ivory  trade.  After  this  event  there  followed 
nnxions  houtH  and  slee]dess  nights  for  me  till  Providence  finally  con- 
ducted Tue  to  the  coast  at  Zanzibar.  Stanley's  expedition  has  now  started 
for  the  rescue  of  my  friend  Emin  Pasha.  I  am  sure  that  you  all  share 
my  heartfelt  wish  for  its  prospero^is  and  speedy  issue.  I  may  also 
express  the  hope  that  we  may  soon  have  amougst  us  again  the  poor 
European  prisoners  so  long  in  the  hands  of  the  Mahdi'a  followers,  the 
brave  and  honourable  Lnpton  and  Slatin  Bey, 

Before  the  jxiper. 

The  Chairman  in  introducing  Br.  Junker,  said  they  all  recognised  bim  as  one 
of  the  most  ]>ersistent  and  successful  of  travellers  in  those  regiona  of  Africa  wliich 
lie  to  the  south  of  Gordon's  provinces  and  which  formed  the  water-par tiug  between 
the  basins  of  the  Kile,  Lake  Tsad,  and  the  Congo.  Tho  Society  had  Mbwed  Dr. 
J  unker's  travels  with  interest  and  sympatliy,  and  he  tendered  him  a  cordial  wel- 
come in  the  name  of  the  Members. 

After  the  paper. 

The  Chairman  said  that  since  entering  the  room  he  had  been  informed  by  the 
Secretary  of  the  Church  Jlissionarj  Society,  that  he  had  that  day  received  letters 
in*m  Mr.  Mackay,  whkh  showed  that  up  to  date  no  known  harm  had  befallen  Emin 
Fash  a, 

Mr.  EuoESE  Stock  (of  the  Church  MLsaionary  Society)  said  that  the  letters 
received  that  day  from  Uganda  were  to  some  extent  anticipated  by  a  Ileuter*s 
telegram  from  Zanzibar  about  seven  weeks  ago,  which  stated  that  Mr,  Mackay  and 
the  French  priests  were  well  on  the  24th  January.  The  letters  just  received  came 
down  to  January  2nd,  They  had  com©  ucroaa  the  Yictoria  Njanza  in  the  EUanar 
Mission-boat,  and  then  were  carried  from  the  south  end  of  the  lake  hy  the  mail  men 
who  were  kept  nmning  every  two  months  a  distance  of  700  miles  to  the  coast. 
The  boat  was  entirely  navigated  hy  Africans  and  went  regularly  backwards  and 
forwards  between  Uganda  and  the  south  end  of  the  lake.    It  was  evideut  that  that 

2  H  2 


418 


EXPIOUATIONS  IN  CENTRAL  AFRICA.— DISCCSSION. 


lioat  aod  the  Kiail  men  brought  the  news  from  EtQin  Pasba  wbich  had  reached  Dr. 
Felkin.  It  was  a  great  IiappiDess  to  the  Chtirch  Missionary  Society  that  their  boat 
and  mail  arrangemeiitH  had  been  stibservient  to  the  cause  of  those  great  travellers 
whom  every  member  of  the  Geographical  Society  delight€^d  to  honour.  Mr,  Mackay 
mentioned  that  there  had  been  for  a  time  a  ctsaation  of  the  massacres  which  took 
place  Bome  time  ago.  Althougb  I  ho  adherents  of  both  the  English  and  French 
Miedons  had  to  be  careful  and  more  or  less  keep  in  coricealtnent^  yet  they  were  able 
to  meet  together  from  time  to  time,  and  lie  gave  a  little  nccount  of  the  festivities 
which  took  place  last  Christmas.  Be  waa  in  some  favour  with  the  king  at  that 
time  owing  to  a  particular  incident.  He  had  on  several  occasions  pat  up  a  great 
flagstaff,  first  for  Mtesa  and  then  for  Mwanga,  hut  that  flagstaff  had  a  habit  of  fallin^c 
down,  and  he  was  always  called  in  to  prop  it  xip  again.  He  had  now  performed  the 
feat  again,  and  in  consequence  of  that  he  was  io  favour  wnth  the  kiog,  Mr»  Mackay 
also  mentioned  the  supplies  sent  on  by  Dr.  Junker  to  Emin  Pasha,  aod  stated  that 
ivory  was  being  brought  to  Uganda,  and  that  was  a  key  which  would  open  many 
doors.  That  might  |>artly  account  fijr  the  favour  with  which  he  was  regarded.  He 
(Mr.  Stock)  would  take  the  opportunity  of  correctiog  a  common  mistake.  Because 
Mr.  Mackay  was  so  exceedingly  clever  with  his  hands  it  was  often  supposed  that 
he  was  an  artisan,  but  he  was  an  educated  Saitoh  geDtlemaOt  a  mechanical  engineer 
by  ]>rofeflfiion,  who  kept  himself  aw  cmtrunt  with  what  took  place  in  the  civilised 
world,  and  particularly  with  the  '  Pixioeedings  *  of  the  Itoyal  Geographical  Society. 

Sir  Francis  de  Winton  said  that  among  the  many  instmctiona  which  be 
received  from  the  authorities  at  Brussels  before  proceeding  to  the  Congo,  none  were 
more  urgently  impressed  upon  him  than  that  he  should  do  whatever  was  in  hia 
j>ower  to  ascertain  the  whereabouts  of  Dn  Junker  and  other  Euroi^eaDS  who  were 
travelling  in  some  part  of  Central  Africa,  He  need  hardly  say  what  pleaf^ure  it 
would  have  given  him  as  Administrator- General  to  have  received  news  of  Dr.  Junker, 
but  that  was  unfortunately  denied  him.  Between  Dr,  Junker  s  southernmost  point 
at  Sanga.  and  Stanley  Falls  there  was  a  considerable  distance,  which  in  Africa  was 
rather  difficult  to  overcome.  He  therefore  bad  not  the  honour  and  pleasure  of 
welcoming  Dr.  Junker  to  the  Congo  Free  State,  but  he  shared  with  all  present  the 
pleasure  that  they  felt  in  seeing  him  among  them  at  that  meeting.  It  must  have 
been  noticed  how  very  little  Dr.  Junker  had  said  aliout  himself  and  his  doings  in 
the  interesting  paper  he  had  read,  and  bow  much  stress  ho  had  laid  upon  the  work 
that  had  been  performed  by  Lupton  Bey  and  Emin  Pasha.  The  modest  description 
that  Dr.  Junker  had  given  of  his  own  work  enhancetl  the  value  of  that  work.  To 
anybody  accustomed  to  tmvel  in  Africa  the  tracing  of  his  wanderings  on  the  map 
meant  a  great  deal — daily  marches  in  the  hot  sun,  great  patience,  great  endurance, 
and  the  us©  of  all  those  faculties  which  went  to  make  up  the  true  African  traveller. 
They  would  all  agree  that  Dr.  Junker  possessed  all  those  faculties  in  a  mo^t  remark- 
able degree.  The  routes  which  be  had  so  carefully  marked  out  would  be  found  very 
valuable  to  the  cartographer  and  the  student  of  the  geography  of  that  portion  of 
Africa.  He  had  settled  many  questions  with  regard  to  the  watershed  between  the 
Congo  and  the  Nile^  and  had  brought  about  friendly  relationa  between  the  natives 
and  the  white  men.  That  was  a  great  thing  in  Africa*  The  white  man  following 
the  Arab  had  always  great  difficulties  to  encounter,  because  the  Arab  course  througk 
the  country  meant  the  collection  of  ivory  and  slaves.  Kotbing  was  more  gratifying 
in  connection  with  Dr.  Junker**  travels  than  the  fact  thflt  he  was  able  to  traverse 
the  country  a  tier  the  Arabs  had  been  in  possession  of  it.  It  was  now  known  that 
for  the  present  Emin  Fn^iba  was  relieved  fVom  any  attempts  that  might  be  made 
against  him  by  the  Mahdi's  followers.  The  exi)edition  which  w^as  en  route  through 
the  Upper  Congo  to  Stanley  Falls  would  then  find  its  way  across  country  to  Wadelai, 


EXPLORATiUNS  IN  CENTRAL  AFRICA.-^DISCQSSION.  410 

and  before  the  end  of  the  present  year  he  hoped  to  have  some  newa  of  the  meetlDp  of 
:3  tan  ley  and  Emin  Pasha.  Id  describing  the  advance  of  the  Mahdi's  emissftriei  from 
the  north  Dr,  Juuker  gave  the  idea  of  a  Mahommedan  mvasiou  into  the  centre  of 
Africa*  It  was  well  known  that  the  Mahommedan  leligion  more  easily  adapted 
itself  to  the  negro  of  Central  Alrica  than  the  Christian  religion,  but  when  it  was 
remembered  that  Christiaoity  and  civilisation  were  advancing  from  the  westward  by 
the  Congo,  and  would  come  from  the  eastwartl  by  the  Victoria  Nyanza,  it  was  to  htj 
hoped  that  it  would  drive  back  the  Mabommedan  invaaioii,  and  preserve  that  region 
for  the  benefit  of  the  world  in  future. 

Mr.  Paul  Dt;  Chaillu  said  that  for  the  last  few  years  he  had  been  bo  much 
engaged  amongst  the  old  Scandinavians,  and  in  studying  the  archmology  of  the  north 
of  Europe,  that  he  was  sorry  to  say  he  had  not  kept  up  the  study  of  Africa.  He 
had»  however^  heard  a  great  deal  that  night  which  was  very  plmsing  to  him.  He 
could  quite  appreciate  ttio  hardships  which  Dr.  Junker  had  undergone-  When  he 
first  went  to  Africa  he  was  eighteen  or  nineteen  years  old  and  did  not  mind  hard- 
ships, but  he  did  now.  When  ho  first  described  the  cannibal  country,  he  stated 
that  he  had  been  told  that  many  tribes  were  cannibals  and  tbat  it  was  not  known 
where  cannibalism  ended.  He  also  stated  ttiat  the  dwarfs^  whom  he  ctxlled  Olwngos, 
were  a  wandering  tribe,  and  they  told  him  themselves  that  they  did  not  know  how 
far  east  their  people  extended.  Dr.  Junker  had  also  found  a  great  many  cannibals 
and  dwarfs*  They  were  all  greatly  indebted  to  Dr.  Junker  for  the  account  he  had 
given  them  of  hia  travels,  and  they  had  great  pleasure  in  welcoming  him  back  safe 
from  such  a  diflicult  country, 

Br.  MuniB  said  tiiat  he  had  not  been  in  Central  Africa  for  twenty  yeara,  but  he 
had  seen  part  of  the  ground  travelled  ovtir  by  Dr,  Junker,  It  had  been  his  pleasure 
to  see  the  veritable  map  which  Dr.  Junker  drew  of  his  journeyings,  and  was  delighted 
to  find  how  much  had  been  done  towards  advancing  African  geography.  He  him- 
self had  been  to  Meshra  el  Rek  and  had  come  down  the  same  route  as  that  followed 
by  Dr.  Junker,  not  far  from  Nambara,  It  apfjeared  to  him  that  the  great  point  of 
the  jm|Ter  waa  that  which  concerned  the  watershed.  Apart  from  the  political 
(jueatiou  with  regard  to  the  various  tribes,  pure  geograpbera  were  interested  in  the 
great  point  that  was  now  left  to  be  settled  with  regaM  to  C-entral  Africa.  There 
were  three  great  rivers  all  springing  from  the  centre  of  the  continent.  The  Nila 
was  the  best  known  and  the  most  celebrated,  and  one  of  the  discoverers  of  Its  sourco 
(Colonel  Grant)  was  present  in  that  room.  It^  great  source  was  the  large  lakea 
centrally  situated  near  Equatorial  Africa,  The  origin  of  the  Congo  was  also  in  the 
same  lake  region  in  marshy  ground,  but  further  down  it  took  a  great  turn  to  the 
west ;  but  there  waa  still  another  large  river  whose  source  had  not  yet  been  settled. 
He  alluded  to  the  Niger,  At  tbe  present  moment  people  were  very  apt  to  regard 
the  Congo  as  the  greater  river  because  of  the  enormous  body  of  water  which  it 
brought  down,  but  which  was  confined  in  a  narrow  bed  between  high  ranges  before 
it  flowed  out  to  the  sea.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Nile  there  was  an  enormous  delta,  and 
in  various  f«rts  of  its  course  the  river  spread  itself  out  such  as  the  Bahr  el  Ghazal. 
The  sources  of  the  great  rivers  of  Africa  were  no  doubt  lakes  and  morasses,  but 
where  did  the  lakea  and  morasses  get  the  water?  The  rainfall  of  Africa  was 
peculiar.  The  monsoon,  if  the  expression  might  be  used,  extended  from  10°  N,  to 
10*^  8.,  and  there  was  a  double  monsoon  as  the  sun  went  backwards  and  forwards, 
so  that,  as  Livingstone  and  other  travellers  had  mentioned,  there  was  a  very  great 
amount  of  moisture  there.  The  watershed  appeared  to  be  at  alx)ut  2^  N,  of  the 
equator,  and  the  Welle  flowed  westward.  Other  travellers  had  seen  another  river 
running  north  to  the  other  side  of  tht?  bend  of  ihe  Congo,  and  very  ingeniously  a  line 
had  been  drawn  on  the  map  bringing  the  Welle  right  into  the  Congo.     Ho  did  not 


420     NOTES  ON  PART  OF  THE  WESTERN  FRONTIER  OF  BRITISH  HONDURAS. 

say  th&t  it  was  not  so^  but  lb  wag  not  yet  proved  to  bin  satisfaction  that  the  Welle 
fell  into  tbe  Congo:  he  was  mther  inclined  to  Ibink  that  it  went  to  the  Niger.  Ho 
"wbhed  to  ask  Dr.  Junker  what  was  the  nature  of  the  country  at  the  farthest  point 
which  he  had  reached.  From  LaJo  (Gondokoro)  down  to  Unyoro  it  was  a  rolling 
©ountry  with  ranges  of  hills.  1'he  whole  plain  north  of  that  was  a  more  or  less 
flat  land  with  no  great  elevations,  but  with  enormous  forests.  What  reason  there- 
fore was  there  for  the  Welle  flowing  south?  He  wished  to  ask  Dr,  Junker  what 
reasons  he  had  for  believing  that  the  AVelle  joined  the  Congo.  Another  question 
be  wished  to  ask  was  where  would  they  place  the  origin  of  the  Niger?  For  modesty 
of  speech,  for  the  length  of  time  ha  had  remained  in  Africa,  for  truthfulness  in  his 
leacription  of  the  people,  the  Makarakas,  Niam  Niams,  and  others,  for  the  immense 
nattiral  history  collections  that  be  had  made,  they  were  all  greatly  indebted  to 
Dr*  Junker,  and  they  trusted  that  in  future  they  should  hear  a  great  deal  more 
from  him. 

Dr.  JuNEER,  in  reply,  said  that  when  he  reached  Zanzibar  in  December  last,  he 
had  not  the  least  idea  of  the  discussion  that  was  going  on  about  the  Mobangi,  Since 
ho  had  heard  of  Mr,  Grenfeirs  journey  up  that  northern  tributary  of  the  Congo  be 
thought  it  very  likely  that  the  Welle-Makua  ran  into  it.  When  he  was  in  the 
region  he  thought  that  the  natural  thing  for  it  to  do  was  to  go  into  the  Shari,  but 
as  the  Mobangi  was  GOOO  or  7000  feet  wide  at  its  mouth  the  question  was  where 
that  great  supply  of  water  came  from, 

A  cordial  vote  of  thanks  having  been  given  to  Dr.  Junker  for  Ms  paper  the 
proceedings  terminated. 


Notes  on  a  fart  of  the  Western  Froniier  of  Briiish  Honduraa. 

By  William  Milleb,  Aasktant  Surreyor-General  Britislt  Honduras. 

The  portion  of  country  eh  own  on  tlio  accompany  iug  map  extends  from 
kt.  17^  3'  40"  to  17°  5D^  27"  N.,  a  part  of  British  HonduriLs  concerning 
wliich  all  existing  maps  are  more  or  leas  erroneotis,  and  of  which  wo 
have  just  completed  the  survey. 

I  am  sorry  that  I  Lavo  not  time  to  supply  the  Society  with  a  more 
finished  map.  Thofirm  hlack  line  shown  as  the  frontier  on  the  plan  has 
been  cleared  through  the  bush  for  the  entire  distance  shown^  and  has 
been  cut  12  feet  wide.  Several  aurveyors  have  been  in  charge  of  the 
party  at  different  times,  and  had  to  return  to  Belize  on  account  of 
sickness,  which  is  caused  chiefly  on  account  of  want  of  good  water.  For 
the  last  twenty-three  miles  I  was  myself  in  charge  of  the  work,  so  I  can 
assure  you  that  the  map  is  correct. 

It  will  he  seen  that  for  a  considerable  distance  the  line  runs  through 
logwood  swamp,  but  in  all  other  parts  fine  timber  grows;  all  the 
varieties  common  to  this  part  of  the  globe  being  present,  as  mahogany, 
sapodtlla,  rosewood,  &c.  The  portion  of  land  available  for  cuUivation  is 
very  small,  and  I  found  no  indication  of  minerals,  the  hills  being  all  of 
a  limestone  formation.     No  open  country  was  met  with,  the  thick  bush 


.>>* 


PI*n  of  Pbrtion  of 
thaWsstarn  Frontier  of  the  Colony  of 

BRITISH  HONDURAS 


^iibhsKti  far  ti%M  Firoe9edgngs  of  ths  Bayml  Gwyv^cplOGAl  Socvcty  .  IfttH 


422     NOTES  OX  PART  OF  THE  WESTERN  FRONTIEII  OF  BRITISH  HONDURAS. 

only  giving  waj  to  tlio  logwcKxl  swamps,  which  are  full  of  a  very 
unpleasant,  tall,  tough  grasa,  about  12  feet  high,  called  verj  ajrrectly 
'*  cutting  grass,"  which  will  adhere  to  anything  which  t'Ouchea  it,  and^ 
nolesa  carefully  put  off,  it  will  cut  through  thick  clothing,  and  naake  a> 
nasty  gash  in  the  flesh. 

These  swamps,  ho%rever,  are  full  of  orebitls  of  many  species,  the 
beauty  of  which  takes  off  some  of  the  monotony  of  working  through 
these  somewhat  dismal  swamps.  I'he  bush  was  bo  lliick  that  -with  a 
gang  of  fift}^  men  I  could  only  cut  tbroiigh  half  a  mile  per  day, 

Chan  Cheech  creek,  which  will  he  fo«nd  marked,  ia  iu  the  dry  season 
only  a  succession  of  pools,  hut  in  the  wet  season  it  is  a  rushing  roaring 
river,  and  at  this  time  the  whole  of  the  low  lands  are  under  water, 
whilst  in  the  dry  season  no  water  is  obtaiiialde.  This  creek  no  doubt 
connects  with  Btx)th's  rivor  or  the  Eio  Bravo,  but  no  person  has  followed 
it  up  to  settle  this  point. 

The  long  narrow  lagoon  at  the  northern  end  of  the  line  marked 
"  Ishnoha  creek  **  joins  Blue  creek  at  the  point  shown.  Ko  white  man 
has  followed  this  down,  but  we  have  this  information  from  an  Indian- 
I  tried  to  follow  it,  and  went  so  far  as  shown  upon  the  map,  where  I 
was  stopped  by  thick,  prickly  bamboo,  armed  all  over  with  sharp  spines, 
about  an  inch  long,  through  which  it  was  impossible  to  penetrate. 

Although  game  of  all  kinds  was  met  with  all  along  the  line  it  was 
not  so  plentiful  as  might  bo  supposed.  The  following  species  were  shot 
at  different  times  i — Antelope,  peccary  and  waree,  gibnut,  l>aboonB, 
quash,  arniadilla,  and  of  birds,  the  quam,  currasow,  partridge,  and 
toucan.  The  only  place,  however,  where  game  alwunded  was  upon 
Ishnoha  lagoon,  where  birds  were  met  with  upon  every  tree,  and  so  tame 
that  they  did  not  fly  away  at  our  approach.  There  were  cranes,  car- 
penter birds,  and  the  big  barking  gaulin,  and  the  alligators  were  so 
thick  that  they  could  bo  seen  at  almo«?t  every  few  yards,  and  so  Ix^ld 
that  they  attacked  a  rough  log  w^hich  I  had  had  hollowed  out  to  form  a 
canoe  in  which  to  explore  the  river,  and  we  had  to  shoot  them  to  keep 
them  off. 

The  villages  show^n  on  the  map  are  inhabited  by  Indians,  but  Cayo- 
(usually  called  **  The  Cayo  *')  is  an  exception,  as  the  great  majority  of 
the  inhabitants  there  aro  negroes  ;  and  at  Benqueviejo  they  are  half- 
breeds  of  mixed  Spanish  and  Indian  descent. 

The  Indians  of  these  villages  are  not  savages.  They  cultivate  the 
soil  and  grow  maize,  rice,  and  beans,  and  raise  pigs  and  fowls.  They 
are,  however,  to  a  certain  extent  dangerous,  as  bo  lately  as  1872  they 
made  a  successful  raid  on,  and  burnt.  Orange  Walk,  one  of  the  chief 
U)wj^&  of  the  colony,  where  there  was  a  fort  and  a  gan-ison.  They  are 
armed  to  a  considerable  extent  with  old  Enfield  rifles  and  the  machete^  a 
kind  of  cutlass,  without  which  travelling  is  impossible  in  this  country. 

All  the  roads  which  I  have  marked  are  mere  paths  through  the  bush. 


RUSSIAN  GEOGRAPHICAL  WORK  IN  1886. 


43S 


the  majority  of  them  so  l>ad  tliat  even  a  mtile  could  not  travel  on  them. 
The  ro*id  from  The  Cayo  to  Benqueviejo  is,  however,  an  exception 
as  it  k  a  well-cut  road  of  ahout  24  feet  wide,  and  in  diy  weather  very 
good  for  mule  traffic. 

The  position  of  Ycaicho  has  always  been  doubtful,  but  I  think  I 
have  marked  it  on  just  about  correctly  as  30  miles  to  the  northward  of 
the  head  of  the  frontier.  The  doulrt  concerning  this  town  is  to  Ijo 
accounted  for  by  the  terror  which  the  Ycaicbe  Indians  inspire.  Last 
Christmas,  I  applied  for  leave  to  visit  this  town,  but  j)ermissiun  was 
refused  by  the  Colonial  Government.  The  town  is  descrilKjd  to  me  as 
being  of  considerable  size,  but  scattered ;  and  there  are  suppused  to  bo 
abont  2000  fighting  men  there,  I'hese  Indians  dress  in  tronsei-s  and 
cotton  shirts,  and  their  staple  food  is  the  tortilla  cake  made  of  pounded 
maize  baked  over  the  fire  into  little  round  flat  cakes.  They  have  a 
rough  idea  of  municipal  self-govomment  and  elect  alcaldes  among 
themselves,  who  have  powers  to  try  and  to  pnnish  oSenders* 

WiLLUM  Miller, 

Amstant-iSnrvtyor  Oeutral  BM, 
Belize,  Beitish  Hondubas,  2ld  Mart^^  1887. 


littssian  Geographical  Work  in  1886. 
From  Eussian  Sources,  by  E.  Delmab  Morgan. 

1,  Woi'k  of  the  Imperial  Eumian  Geographical  Bocid^* 

'9mm  the  Okhot  (Report)  of  the  Bussian  Geographical  Society  for  1886,  we  loarii  the 
lamm  hy  death  of  its  members  have  been  unusually  severe  during  the  past  year. 
AltKWig  the  geographers  meDtionetl  in  the  obituary  record  ore  those  of  Abich,  who 
devoted  about  thirty  of  the  liCMt  years  of  bis  life  (1844  to  1877)  to  the  study  of  the 
geology  of  the  Caucasus,  ami  whoso  name  will  live  for  ever  in  its  annals;  Abramof, 
whose  article  on  the  KarateghiQ  was  translated  for  our  Journal  (vol.  xlL).  He  too 
Initiateti  Fadchenko's  expedition  to  the  glacier  named  after  this  naturalist,  aud  to 
Iskandtfr  Kul,  as  well  aa  that  to  the  Alai,  FaDiirt  and  boundaries  of  Kashgar,  where 
Buch  tncn  as  Middendorf,  Mui«hk^tof,  and  8evertzof  found  a  field  for  their  taloots. 
Among  utber  well- known  names  loat  to  science  is  that  of  Poltoratski,  who,  together 
with  Blajor-General  llyio,  founded  the  cartographical  establishment  now  known  under 
the  name  of  his  colleague.  Poltoratski  gave  great  assistance  to  the  first  liuissian 
explorations  in  Central  Asia,  and  himacll  led  the  Chatir  Kul  expedition  in  1867, 
which  first  crossed  the  Naryn  and  brought  Hussian  surveys  to  Kaahgar  (*  Journal,' 
vol.  xl).  Lastly,  we  must  not  omit  mention  of  R,  K.  Maack^  one  of  the  first 
travellers  on  the  Amur,  m  the  Ussuri  country,  which  he  explored  iu  1857,  and  in 
the  Viliui  district,  giving  to  the  world  the  results  of  his  invt'sligations  in  three 
sepanite  works  relating  to  each  of  these  journeys. 

Tbe  Heport  goes  on  to  speak  of  recent  expeditions  organ  i^d  by  the  Society. 
f*irat,  that  of  Potanin,  lately  noticed  in  our  VProceedings '  (May  1887),  in  which 
three  branches  of  geographical  science  hsu\  their  representatives,  viz.  ethnography, 
in  the  person   of  M.  Potania  himself;  Datural  history,  in  that  of  M.  Berczin;  and 


424 


RUSSIAN  GEOGRAPHICAL  WORK  IN  iSStJ. 


topography,  in  cliarjre  of  M.  Skasai,  The  personnel  of  this  expedition,  too,  ww 
remarkable,  owing  to  the  fact  that  Mine.  Potanin  uliarcd  its  haidsliips  and 
privations,  accoiiipanying  her  hugband  throughout  his  three  years'  wauderings  in 
boutheru  Mongolia,  Western  Chiria,  and  on  the  ooufines  of  Tilxjt.  Another 
expedition  explored  the  magnificent  Khan  Tengri  group  of  mountains  in  the  Thian 
Shao,  whosa  summits  soar  up  to  a  height  of  22,000  and  24,000  feet  With 
regard  to  this  group  M.  Mushkdtof  gives  some  interesting  particulars.  Khan  Tengri 
is  situated  betvveen  42^  and  43°  K.  lat,,  and  is  remarkable  as  the  ]iomt  where  the 
Thian  Shan,  extending  eastward  as  a  narrow,  though  lofty  range,  develops  into  a 
wider  and  more  complicated  system,  affording  a  diJference  so  striking  as  to  have  led 
some  explorers  to  diHiiuguish  the  wetiteni  Thian  Shan  as  a  separate  range  under  the 
name  of  the  highlands  of  Turkijstan. 

The  relation  of  Khan  Tengri  to  the  folded  ridges  of  the  Thian  Shnn,  is  of  equal 
or  even  greater  importance  than  that  of  Muatag-ata  to  the  Pamir ;  its  orography 
and  stratigraphy  therefore  demand  investigation  in  order  to  elucidate  the  origiu 
and  Btrncture  of  the  system  of  which  it  forms  so  conspicuous  a  centre.  In  hke 
•manner,  the  iieientific  iutereiit  attaching  to  the  glaciers  of  Khan  Tengri  may  be 
readily  com^xared  with  that  of  Mount  Elbruz  in  the  Caucaaiia,  the  more  so,  as  the 
Thian  Shan  system  is  generally  dtficieut  in  j^lacial  phenomena,  while  on  the  other 
iaand,  when  these  do  occur  they  are  on  a  most  imixising  scale.  Thus  the  glaciers  ot 
Khan  Tengri  are  probably  quite  as  extensive,  if  tbey  do  not  surpass,  those  of  thu 
Zarafshan  and  Mnk*su.  Lastly,  the  volcanicity  of  Central  Asia  may  best  be  studied 
here,  for  though  it  ha*i  hn^en  amply  proved  in  recent  years,  that  the  opiniras  of  Hum- 
boldt and  others  regarding  active  volcanicity  in  Central  Asia*  have  no  foundation  in 
fact,  there  yet  remain  abnnthint  indications  of  the  presence  of  typical  volcanic  rocks, 
and  from  the  scanty  data  yet  CJ^Ilccted,  it  is  probable  that  although  Khan  Tengri  is 
chiefly  built  up  of  granites  and  schists-,  analogous  to  those  of  the  Terske  Alatau, 
Musart,  &c,,  there  are  nevertheless  amonj?  its  comixjneot  rocks  recent  volcanic  forma- 
tions. These  and  othtr  considerations  pironipted  the  Eussian  Geographical  Society 
to  organise  an  expedition  to  investigate.  Travellers  hare  hitherto  admired  its 
stupendous  size  trom  a  distance,  but  none  have  approached  Khan  Tengri  closely, 
except  P.  P,  Semeonof,  who  in  1857  penetmtefi  to  the  glaciers  of  Sary-jas  and  first 
drew  attention  to  their  imjiortance.  In  those  days,  thirty  years  ago,  travelling  in 
Central  Asia  was  very  different  from  what  it  is  at  the  present  time.  Then  a  journey 
to  those  regions  could  not  be  accomplished  without  great  discomfort  and  some  risk, 
now  the  ordinary  tourist  may  visit  them  and  the  naturallat  pursue  his  investigations 
without  fear  of  interruption. 

It  had  been  intcndeii  to  &end  two  expeditions  in  1885,  but  owing  to  the  absence 
of  its  leader,  J.  V.  Jgnatief,  on  other  duties,  a  start  was  not  effected  till  the  following 
year.    The  point  of  departure  was  Karakol,|  a  Russian  settlement  at  the  east  end  ot 


•  Since  thefio  linea  were  written  a  grent  earthquake  has  been  reported  from  Veray, 
by  which  that  town  has  been  nearly  destroyed,  and  a  region  about  a  thousand  verata  in 
extent  has  been  alft'cted. 

t  Karokol  is  t lie  capital  of  the  district  of  the  fame  name,  and  an  outpost  of  Huissian 
civilisation  in  the*  Thian  Shan.  Its  raud  walls  ami  gardens  give  it  an  Eastern  apptar- 
ance,  hut  the  present  town  is  entirely  modern,  having  been  founded  :^incc  tho  annexa- 
tion of  the  L'outitry  by  I1(lls^ift.  The  basaiar  h  worth  Boeing  from  the  variety  of  types  and 
nationalities  frequenting  it.  Hen^  tuibaned  Sarts  and  pig4aiiird  Dungana  eit  in  little 
shops  andtipeii  booths  Belling  Iho  produco  of  the  country.  About  twrt-nty  milts  fiom 
Kiirakul  tho  ruins  of  an  ancient  town  are  visible  on  the  south  eliore  of  Issyk-kul. 
Its  walls  are  iniboddeil  in  aand^  but  various  urtitles,  euch  as  copper  veestls,  Chinese 


RUSSUN  GEOGRAPHICAL  WORK  IN  188(J, 


425 


Lake  Issyk-kiil,  wliere  A.  N.  Krasnof,  a  botaoist  of  some  repute,  joined  it,  Uia 
flpecial  object  was  to  study  tke  flora  of  the  hi2;li  sqow  and  ice  reg:it'nB  of  tbt* 
Thiaa  Shan,  and  compare  this  with  that  of  the  Polar  regions  recently  worked  up 
by  Yeit  Br^cher  Wittrock*  :  to  deterinine  the  vertical  distribution  of  plant-life 
on  Khaii  Tengri,  and  compare  this  with  corrc3[x>ijdiDg  zones  in  the  hotter-known 
regions  of  the  Trane-Ili  and  Kung^  AlaUu  chains.  Moreover,  M,  Kmanofs  knowledge 
of  the  Aralo-Casptan  flora  would  enable  him  to  deduce  some  interesting  comparisotjjs 
l^tweeiL  it  and  that  of  the  sand  and  clay  wastes  bordering  on  Lake  Balkhash  and 
with  the  transitional  forma  met  with  on  enterini^  the  mountains.  From  these 
aspects  the  sands  of  Tau-kum,  the  lower  Hi  plains,  und  Trans-Ili  mountains  possess 
an  exceptioutd  interest  for  the  botanical  geographer,  their  recent  lacustrine  and 
riverine  sedimentary  deposits  never  yet  having  been  hotanicaiiy  investigated,  while 
the  oldest  flora  of  the  higher  regions  up  to  and  including  the  snow-line  aSbrds 
unequalled  opportunities  for  comparison. 

With  rcference  to  this  exijodition  J.  V.  Ignatief  has  communicated  the  following 
rejxjrt: — '*  Starting  from  Karakol  on  the  16th(Ii8th)  July,  1886,  we  crossed  the  out- 
lying spurs  of  the  Thian  8han,  the  rivers  Jerghea  and  Boeechuk  to  the  Turgen-aksu 
which  we  ascended  to  the  valley  of  the  Sari*jas  and  up  this  to  the  glaciers  dis- 
-covered  by  P,  P.  Semeonof  in  1857,  Wo  were  then  obliged  by  a  heavy  snowfall  to 
retreat  to  the  valley  of  the  Kok-jar-karkanw  The  large  glacier  at  the  sources  of 
the  Sari-jas,  called  by  l\  P.  Semeonof  a  rner  de  giace^  we  named  after  liim,  and 
another,  at  the  sources  of  the  Adir-tur,  *  Mushk<JtofJ  Our  topographer  Alexandrof 
made  an  instrumental  survey  of  Semeonof  glacier  and  measured  its  rate  of  move- 
ment. Muahk^tof  glacier  was  half  inatrumentally  surveyed  by  Khludof*  At  tho 
sources  of  a  left  tributary  of  the  Sari-jas  wo  discovered  another  glacier,  the  Iniichik. 
From  the  valley  of  the  Sari-jas  we  descjetided  to  that  of  the  Tekea  by  a  new  pass, 
^aryn-kol,  on  which  there  is  an  overlapping  glacier,  Tura-jorga.  By  the 
16th{28th)  August,  we  were  at  *  hunters*  settiement,*  whence  we  made  an  excursion 
to  Borodobosup  and  from  this  point  took  a  photograph  of  Khan  Tengri,  On  the 
22nd  August  (3rd  September),  I  with  the  draoght«man  Khludof,  six  Cossacks, 
three  jigits  and  an  interpreter  went  to  Musart,  while  the  topographer  was  engaged 
in  measuring  trigonometrical ly  the  height  of  Khan  Tengri  from  the  Baian-gol 
Valley,  taking  Hunters*  Station  as  zero»  The  deduced  height  of  the  peak  was  found 
to  bo  24,000  feet  above  sea-level. 

*^The  Musart  Pass  has  an  elevation  of  12,000  feet  above  sea-level.  We  followed 
the  defile  to  its  southern  termination  at  Yaman-Kivrgan  where  the  mountains  end, 
and  the  road  to  Aksu  enters  the  steppes.  Trace.^  of  ancient  gkfcciers  were  found  at  a 
height  of  6800  feet  above  sea-level  on  the  sotithern  slope  of  the  defile,  which  bad 
therefore  been  completely  filled  with  ancient  glaciers,  for  the  marks  on  the  sonthern 
aide,  where  atmospherical  desintegration  had  taken  little  effect,  were  plainly  visible, 
■while  on  the  northern  side  there  was  no  trace  of  them  at  6800  feet  The  Thian 
Shan  at  the  Musart  consists  of  granite,  sienite,  gj^psum,  diorite,  marbles  and  azoic 
schists,  white  marbles  being  predominant  at  the  summit  of  the  jjass.     The  strati- 


: 


bricks,  &ai  are  occusionatly  brooght  to  light,  and  I  saw  a  number  of  coibs  with 
nearly  obiiterated  inscriptiOTis*  »tiid  to  datt>  from  the  thirteenth  century.  About  five 
milts  fr^im  Kartikul  there  ure  Bome  hctt  itpt  ings  where  the  water  comes  up  boiling.  The 
road  to  Musart  from  Karakol  in  divided  into  seven  stages,  and  paasKiS  through  Russian 
settlemontd. 

*  Cf.  *  Ueber  die  Schnet-  nnd  ICiisflorii  beaontlers  in  den  Arktiuchcn  Gegeuden,' 
fonuing  part  of  NordenskicJld's  *  Studien  nnd  Forechungen*  (Leipzig,  1H85),  pp.  G7-119. 
The  author  here  quoted  is  the  most  recent  authority  on  Arctic  iloru. 


426 


RUSSIAN  GEOGRAPHICAL  WOEK  IN'  1886. 


graphical  cooditionB  of  the  Musart  are  mucli  inTolved,  the  kyera  have  a  strike 
north-east  to  soutb-weat^  and  north-west  to  south-east ;  in  the  latler  case,  the  azoia 
Mchista  are  upUfted  hy  mtrudiog  dio rites. 

"  On  the  7th(19th)  SeptcmbtT,  we  retcroed  to  Karakol,  whence  we  made  a  bcMit 
excursion  on  Issik-ktil  lake." 

M,  A.  N.  Krasnof  has  comraunicatetl  the  following  particulars  with  rererence  to* 
his  hranch  of  the  work,  and  the  reaulta  obtained  hy  him  durinj^  the  Khan  Teogri  ex* 
l^edition.  He  imssed  the  spiiajr  oq  the  lower  Hi,  ne^ir  the  risers  Kiirtn  *  aful  Kojja^t 
thence  he  went  to  the  watershed  of  the  Chu  and  Hi,  to  the  Andrakai  and  Kak-tau  J 
Mountains,  the  sands  of  Tan-kumj§  and  to  Kaman.  In  the  spring  he  also  skirted  the 
shore  of  the  Ak-kul  gulf^ll  and  explored  the  At-lesken  hills.^  In  the  summer  he  made 
excursions  in  the  valleys  of  the  Tekea^  Naryn,  and  Khirghcjs.  July  and  the  beginning 
of  Augtist  he  devoted  to  the  exploration  uf  the  highest  uplands  of  the  Thian  Shan  at 
the  foot  of  Mount  Khan  Tengri  and  the  watershed  of  the  rivers  Syr-daria  and  Tarira, 
where  he  discovered  new  gbciera  in  the  group  of  Sir-tash  and  Sari-jas,  Having 
visited  the  southern  slope  of  the  range  and  crossed  the  Bedel  Pass  to  the  Chines*^ 
town  of  Utch-Turlan  the  traveller  returned  by  the  valley  of  Issik-kvU  to  Verny  and 
thence  through  Tashkend,  Samarkand,  Bokhara,  and  Merv  to  St.  Petersburg. 

M,  Krasnof  ts  of  opinion  that  the  valley  of  the  Hi  once  had  an  entirely  different 
vegetation  to  that  poaseaaed  by  it  now,  and  this  earlier  plant  life  has  completely 
perished  owing  to  the  desiccation  of  Central  Asia  and  the  consequent  change  in  its 
climate.  Formerly,  says  M.  Krasnof,  the  whole  flora  of  the  Hi  valley  was  similar  to 
that  still  preserved  at  the  foot  of  the  snowy  mountains,  resembling  that  of  Central 
Bussia  with  its  copses  of  deciduous  trees,  where  the  maple,  the  apple,  and  the  elm 
are  the  prevailing  kinds  in  the  midst  of  w  ide  tracts  of  black  earth  steppe  lands,  la 
many  places  the  black  earth  still  remains  distributed  much  in  the  same  way  as  ia 
EoBsia  and  similar  in  character. 

At  present  all  the  lower  chaii:i8  are  deprived  of  the  moistui*©  they  derived  from 
melting  ice-6elds  and  have  changed  their  flora  in  tlie  most  radical  way,  having  now 
only  Central  Asian  fum^s.  Many  of  these,  though  remarkably  changed  ia  fomn» 
owing  to  climatic  influences,  are  nevertheless,  according  to  M.  Krasuof,  the  direct 
descendants  of  the  ttusaian  black  earth  flara  greatly  alteretl,  however,  by  liarder  con- 
ditions of  life.  To  such  fomis  thei'e  have  been  added  many  immigrants  from  tho 
eastern  plateau  of  Asia.  These  low  ridges  may  be  considered  as  centres  of  propa- 
gation of  the  forms  of  vegetable  Life  best  adapted  to  the  arid  soil  of  Ci-ntral  Asia. 

Of  special  interest  too  is  the  fjict  that  in  many  places,  owing  to  the  dryness  of  the 

aate,  granitea  and  other  hard  rocks  l>ecume  pulverised,  and  the  jxiwder  or  dust 
thus  formed  collects  in  large  hillocks;  these  again  become  covered  with  the  roost 
extraordinary  forms  of  plants  barely  maintaining  an  existence  in  the  snow-belts,  but 
here  in  the  sands  suddenly  deriving  new  life,  and  developing  into  gigantic  plants. 


*  The  Klurtu  is  the  la^t  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Dt,  entering  it  on  the  left  about 
50  miles  below  lliL«*ky  ferry  (hridge?), 

t  Tlie  Kopa  flows  from  west  to  east  llirough  a  wide  vidh-y,  dividing  the  EOH3alletI 
Alexatidrofaky  Mountains  from  an  outljing  ran  go  to  tlie  north,  and  fidls  into  the 
Kurtu. 

X  The  Andrakxii  and  Kak-lau  are  prohnbly  native  names  of  the  range  of  low  jouuded 
hills  mentioned  in  the  last  note*     I  saw  them  frum  Iho  high  road  ne«ir  Pishpck. 

§  The  Tau-kuui  sands  form  a  Ijelt  nbunt  30  miles  wide,  alung  the  left  l>ank  of  th& 
Hi,  from  the  rivt^r  Kurtu  to  L*ike  Balks^ah. 

II  The  Ala-kul  gulf  is  the  Br»uthernraoat  portion  of  Lake  Balkush. 

TI  The  At-htfken  hilb  align  the  3<>uth-we3t  shore  of  Liike  Balkanh,  tu  lat.  45*^  X. 


BDaSUX  GEOGRAPHICAL  WORK  IK  1886. 


487 


The  ebores  of  Bolkash  and  Ak-kul  ttrc,  accordiDg  to  M.  Krasnofs  description,  a 
#tony  desert  where  plants,  whicli  under  more  favuured  circumstanoes  are  tall  cnou^b. 
for  the  Bcythe,  attain  only  a  diminutive  size,  wliilst  other  parts  again  are  sands, 
oivered  witk  Aralo-Caspian  shruba  nearly  bare  of  leaves.  These  sands  in  M, 
Krasnofs  opinion,  originated  in  the  disintegration  of  old  sandstones.  Lake  Balkash 
has  greatly  shrunk  in  ftize,  com^mn^d  to  its  former  area. 

Thtj  Ala-kul  gulf  has  wiiter  of  a  bitter  saline  taat«.  It  has  shrunk  so  much  that 
tbe  Kirghiz  ford  that  part  couuecting  it  with  Balkaeh.  The  water  in  Balkasb, 
however,  is  nearly  sweet,  M»  Krasnof  did  not  find  one  of  the  rivers  shown  on  the 
map  as  falling  into  Balkosb  from  tbe  south-west^  all  these  afiluenta  having  long 
since  iinaUy  disappeared. 

The  shores  of  Balkash  are  tbe  haunt  of  numerous  wild  animals.  In  the  lower 
reacheji  of  the  Hi  are  tigers,  w*ild  asses,  kulans  *  which  the  Kirghizes  take  alive,  and 
<jros8ing  them  with  their  own  horses  olttain  iho  fastest  gaIlopers.+  In  July,  M. 
Krasnof  crossed  to  the  bead- waters  of  the  Sari-jas.  The  glaciers  here,  three  in  number, 
4ire  very  dirty,  water-worn,  covered  with  pebbles  and  rapidly  disappearing.  The 
earlier  glaciers,  as  evidenced  by  gkcial  marks,  were  larger,  and  descended  40  miles 
lower  into  tbe  valley  tban  at  present.  There  are  even  now  small  isolated  glaciers, 
which  are  the  remnants  of  former  tributaries.  Near  the  Klinya  a  new  glacier  was 
discovered,  and  named  '*  Friede  **  in  honour  of  tbe  governor  of  Semirechia.J  Tbe 
Sir-tash  group  has  seven  glaciers,  the  larjiest  of  which  was  named  **  Kolpakofsky  ■  •  in 
honour  of  the  governor  of  tbe  steppe  country  (Western  Siberia), 

Although  the  highlands  through  which  flow  the  rivers  Sari-jas  and  Sir-taab  are 
Above  tbe  tree  belt  and  even  u]>wards  of  10,000  fett,  tlieir  flora  nevertheless  does  not 
bear  an  alpine  character.  Alpine  meadows  with  plants  mostly  common  to  the 
*-*uuca5US,  Altai,  and  Polar  SilM*ria,  are  only  preserved  on  the  nortbeni  slopes  in 
Jocalities  moistened  by  the  snow  ;  wherever  the  warmth  of  the  sun  is  felt  the  soil 
liccomcs  so  parched  that  alpine  vegetation  cannot  exist,  and  its  place  is  taken 
by  representatives  of  tbe  wurmwiNxl-covered  stejipes  of  the  Turanian  lowlands* 
Glacier  drift  of  the  Syrt  is  so  dry  Jis  nut  to  be  in  a  condition  to  give  a  start  to  clayey- 
fiandy  soils;  but  the  rains,  of  rare  occuiTence,  only  wash  out  of  it  the  finest  dust 
which  settles  in  a  thick  layer  marvcllou«ly  like  loess,  that  fertile  yellow  earth  which 
sustains  tbe  whole  of  China,  Hence  11*  Krasnof  thinks  that  in  many  i>arts  of  Asia 
this  soil  has  been  formed  by  light  rains  gradually  washing  from  the  dry  crumbled 
dt'bris  of  glacier  rivers^  an  excectlinjjly  fine  dust  produced  by  the  attrition  of  ice  on 
rocks  and  their  disintejiratiou  by  weather.  M.  Krasnof  entered  Chinese  territory  by 
the  Betiel  Pass,  one  of  tlic  best  iu  this  part  of  the  Tliian  Shan,  The  river  Bedel  in 
ita  lower  course  fiows  between  precipitous  cliffs  of  conglomerate  before  entering  a  stony 
desert  very  scantily  clothed  with  vegetation.  Beyond  this  tlie  oasis  of  Turfan  is 
reiiched,  where  notwithstanding  the  elevation,  grapes,  melons,  and  nuts  mature.  There 
are  even  rice  plantations,  and  the  lotus  is  cultivated.  The  flora  of  the  Issik-kul  valleys 
ajid  of  the  Tekes  is  transitional  between  that  of  the  &yrt«  and  the  northern  outliers. 


*  Kutan  is  tbe  Turk!  word  for  the  wild  ass,  the  Tihetati  Kinfuj, 
t  I  was  very  much  struck  with  the  peculiar  colour  and  markings  of  some  of  the 
Kirghiz  horses.  One  iu  partipular  which  carried  nie  a  long  day*a  miirch  over  Iho 
mountiiinsT  had  tbe  dark  titrij^e  down  tbe  spine  and  iicroas  the  withers,  its  colour  being 
generally  ashy  grey.  The  endurance  a:  these  little  horses  is  quite  extrftordinary,  even 
when  corrjing  a  heavj  man  over  a  rtmgh  and  billy  country, 

%  General  Friede,  chief  of  Generul  Kftulinaon's  staft'  in  the  expedition  organised 
to  operate  against  Chimi  in  the  Kulja  district  in  1880,  Generul  Friede,  I  regret  to  see, 
la  reported  to  Mvq  been  injured  by  tbe  recent  earthquake  at  Veruy, 


428 


I^USSIAN  GEOGRAPHICAL  WORK  DC  1BS6. 


The  general  coDchmioniof  M.  Krasnof  may  be  Bumiuarised  as  follows ; — Formerly' 
the  Tliian  Shan  flora  was  intcniiedratti  hoiwet^ii  t!ie  Altai  mid  alpine,  and  resembled 
mora  closely  that  of  the  central  and  northern  Caucasus.  The  process  of  desia\i- 
tion  began  on  the  e^juth,  and  sliowed  itself  by  the  formation  of  detritus,  retreat  of 
the  glaciers,  and  disappearance  of  lakes.  It  caused  the  fomiation  of  loess  deposits^ 
sands  and  pebble-atrevvn  plains,  while  it  diminished  the  areas  of  marshes  and  black 
earth  deposits*  All  plants  common  to  polar  and  alpine  regions  disiippeared  from 
the  southern  slopes  and  syrts,  while  coniferous  and  deciduous  arborescent  vegeta- 
tion also  vanishetl  from  all  waterless  slothes,  tlios©  species  requiring  humidity 
haring  entirely  died  out.  Wherever  the*  snou'  has  ceasetl  to  lie,  the  ancient  flora 
has  also  perished,  only  a  few  species  having  adapted  themsulves  to  a  continental 
climate,  and  assumetl  an  Asiatic  character.  Barren  tracts  are  supplied  by  eiiii- 
grants  from  other  arid  parts  of  the  continent,  while  only  thoae  kinds  of  the 
Thiau  Shan  flora  best  adapt^id  for  removiil  are  distributed  over  the  plain.  These 
migrants  mingle  v?ith  other  Asiatic  forma  and  select  certain  soils  divisible  into  four 
steppe  formations :  the  worm woo^l,  sandy,  saline,  and  stony.  The  high  valleys  in 
the  mountains  and  the  dried  lake-beds,  lacking  moisture,  have  likewise  the  same 
typical  »oi!,  and  the  same  vegetation  as  the  plains,  the  altitude  above  sea-level  having 
Ijut  little  influence  on  the  character  of  the  flora. 

The  report  refers  then  to  A,  V.  Eliseief's  journey  in  Asia  Minor  undertaken 
for  anthropological  researches  among  the  various  tribes  inhabiting  Anatolia. 

M.  Elis^Sief  had  intended  reaching  Kurdistan  aud  Armenia  by  way  of  the  Caucasus, 
hut  failing  in  this  oiving  to  an  insurrection  among  the  Kurds,  he  returned  from 
Kars  to  Batum,  and  thence  by  steamer  to  Iskanderuo  (Alexandretta.)  M.  Elis^ief 
tried  in  vain  to  discover  any  trace  of  lUisaian  colonics  on  the  coasts  of  Asia  Minor, 
He  only  succeeded  in  visiting  the  well-known  colony  on  Lake  Mainos,*  and  leameci 
from  some  of  its  oldest  inhabitants  that  offshoots  were  sent  to  the  banks  of  the  Tigri* 
or  Euphmtes,  but  where  exactly  no  one  could  say.  The  people  of  Maiuos  are 
gradually  forgetting  liuasia,  and  to  many  of  them  it  appears  quite  a  foreign  country. 
There  is  a  church  at  Mainos  and  a  resident  Unitarian  clergj'man,  Tlie  peo])le  of 
MaiooB  are  generally  uncouth  and  illiterate,  many  of  them  speak  Turkish  belter  than 
Bussian,  and  the  general  impression  made  on  M,  Eliseief  was  imnful,  the  more  so 
when  he  learned  that  some  of  the^e  people  had  served  in  the  late  war  against  Kussia, 
and  had  even  earned  military  rewards. 

Having  landed  at  Alexandretta  M.  Elis<5ief  crossed  on  horseback  the  Amanus  f 
and  Kizil-dagh  Mountains,  descend wl  tlie  Amuk  valley,  rounded  Lake  Ak-tenghie, 
and  reached  Antioch.  Hence  he  followed  a  wild  mountain  jiath  to  Aleppoi 
visiting  on  the  way  a  number  of  luins  and  caves,  and  in  one  of  these  he  discovered 
the  bones  of  a  pR?historic  man*  The  cavo  in  which  he  found  them  is  opposite  the 
ruins  of  Koslar-terah  From  Aleppo,  the  traveller  took  the  direct  route  to  Beikn,|  the 
celebrated  pass,  and  thence  proceeded  to  Aintab,§  having  made  an  excursion  to 
Biredjik  f]  in  order  to  visit  the  Arabs  of  the  Euphrates. 


•  Lake  Maniyaa,  three  hoimi  from  Aidinjik  on  the  Sea  of  Msnuora,  in  lot.  40'^  N., 
lonff.  28°  E.  The  OoBBaok  uettlmncnt  liere  dates  from  1770  and  was  visited  by  Mr.  W. 
J.  Hamilton  in  1838.    Cf.  *  Jonnud  It.G  »%'  vol.  viiL  p.  13[J. 

t  The  Anmuufl  mng©  borderii  the  Gulf  of  lakanderun  ou  the  east. 

X  The  Beilan  Puss  or  **  Syrian  Gatus"  leods  through  the  Amanus  range  from  Syria 
into  Cilieia. 

§  Aiiitab  stands  on  lofty  heights  ovcrlwking  the  valley  of  the  Tadjur,  a  trihnlary  of 
the  Euphrates. 

II  Otherwise  called  Bir  or  Bir  al  Birat,  on  the  Euphrates.    It  was  here,  according  to 


KUSStAN  GEOGHAPHICAL  WORK  IN  1S86. 


429^ 


At  Malatia  *  M,  Elis^ief  was  overtaken  "by  winter,  and  could  no  longer  move  easflj, 
hia  natural  history  collections  siiifetiug  in  projiortion.  Having  made  an  excuTsion  to 
Kharput,t  and  thence  across  Uic  mountains  of  Musher  to  Kehan-inaadeii,t  ^^^  left 
Malatia  vi&  Sivaa,  Tokat,  Amasia  to  Haiuaun,  and  thence  by  sea  to  Constantinople, 
The  resalti  of  his  journey  comprise  150  sets  of  anthropoloj^ical  observations  ;  thongk 
these  arc  far  from  complete  they  inclnde  measure rneols  of  Arabs  iu  northern  Syria, 
Kurds,  Kizilbashes,  Yczidia,  and  others,  la  the  mountains  of  Arabistan  he  found  o 
sarcophagus,  a  stone  with  a  Latin  iDscription,  several  kitchen-middena,  and  two 
nibbinga  of  stone  bas»relief»  inscrjlx?d  with  the  names  of  ancient  inhabitants.  Hear 
Kcban-maaden  he  met  with  raenhirrf,  and  at  Kharput  opened  tombs — round  pits  in 
limestone  containing  enonnous  vessels  with  bones  hnnit  and  intact. 

Prince  Masalsky  has  made  a  botanical  excursion  in  the  Kara  district  for  the 
Caucasns  Section  of  the  Russian  Geographical  Society,  with  the  speciU  object  of 
comparing  the  transitional  forms  of  the  Pontine  flom  with  those  of  Ea&tem  Trans- 
Caucasia  and  Armenia,  and  to  determine  their  horizontal  distribution  as  well  as 
the  vertical  distribution  of  arboreiscent  and  bosh  vegetation*  He  also  intended 
ooUectiog  observations  on  cultivated  plants  with  the  view  of  ascertaining  the  possi- 
bility of  developing  the  cnltnre  of  the  orange^  lemon,  tea,  coffee,  and  other  useful 
plants.  Prince  Masaltsky  travelled  vi4  Alexandropol  and  Kars  to  Kaghizraan,  situ- 
ate at  the  foot  of  the  range  boitleriug  on  Turkey  and  dividing  the  waters  of  the 
Araxes  from  those  flowing  into  the  Euphrates.  Kaghizman  was  selected  as  a  centml 
point  for  Prince  Masalsky*s' excursions  in  the  valky  of  the  Araxes  and  other 
mountainous  districts.  During  these  excursions,  he  visited  the  Kurdish  encamp- 
miinta  near  Yagludji  Dichur  and  Beshkitia,  known  for  their  mineral  watiers  and 
the  ruins  of  Neren.  He  descended  the  Arpachai  along  its  bank  to  its  confluence 
with  the  Araxes  and  visited  Kulpakh,  one  of  the  most  ancient  salt  industries. 
From  Kagldzman  Prince  Masalsky  ascended  the  dividing  ridge  near  peak  Marmor, 
viHited  the  rich  juisture  lands  of  Chascbaclar  on  the  head-water  of  the  Ak-chai, 
a  right  tiihntary  of  the  Araxes.  He  then  ascended  the  Araxes  by  Zorab-khan  to 
Bish-keh,  crossed  the  frontier-nmge  near  Kess-dagh^  and  proceeded  viA  Kara-knrt 
to  Sari-kamish  on  the  Ersierum  road  at  the  foot  of  the  Soganluk  range.  Hence  ho 
made  excursions  into  the  Soganluk  Mountains,  climbing  one  of  its  chief  peaks, 
Surdy-kbatch,  and  thence  passed  through  Bardus  in  the  basin  of  the  Chordokh  to 
OUi,  Here  bo  made  researches  in  the  01  ti  district  and  then  went  on  to  the  Torttim 
lake  in  Turkey,  finally  returning  to  Olti  and  thence  to  St.  Petersburg  which  he  reached 
in  September.     The  materials  collected  by  Prinoe  Masalsky  are  nnder  examination. 

V.  A.  Fausek  received  a  &mall  subsidy  for  zoo-geographical  researches  in  the 
Kumo-Manytch   lowlandB,§  where  he  iind«itook  a  journey  in  conjunction  with 


the  Greek  legend,  that  Baochua  threw  the  first  bridge  aeross  the  Euphrates  preparatory 
to  IiIb  march  to  tonijner  India. 

•  The  Melitene  of  the  Komam*,  the  wiater  town  surrounded  by  irrigating  canala 
whit'h  rendered  it  m  unhealthy  that  the  inhabitants  abandoned  it  when  the  first 
Bunimer  heats  came  for  Aspuzi,  in  a  higher  valley. 

t  KLdrput  is  plaeod  on  an  eminence  and  oommands  a  view  over  an  exteuBive  and 
Jerlilo  plain.  Its  inhabitants  appiirently  enjoy  great  prosperity  and  a  temperate  climate. 
CI  Mooraal  R.  O.  S./  vol.  vi.  p.  207. 

X  Kebtm-maaden  is  situated  in  a  ravine  abont  30  miles  from  Kbarput,  and  derives 
its  name  "  Mine  f>f  the  gorge  or  pass,*'  from  a  recently  abandoned  mine  of  argentiferous 
land.     Ibid.,  p.  20tJ. 

§  The  Kumo-Manjtch  Imvlands  extend  in  a  wide  belt  from  the  Sen  of  Aznf  to  the 
Caspisin.    They  are  well  marked  throughout  by  a  ieries  of  long  pools  of  stagnant  water 


430 


RUSSIAN  GEOGRAPHICAL  WORK  IN  1886. 


D.  L.  Ivanof/a  geologist.  Their  routes  lay  UiTough  tlie  Caspian  dei)re8sion  occupied 
by  the  Turkoman  aod  Kara-Nogai  sands  to  the  mouth  of  the  Terek  and  the  shores 
of  the  Caspifltj,  a  belt  40  miles  in  width  along  the  Manytch  Jsthmns,  comprising 
the  area  of  the  Stavropol  Yegorlyks,*  the  Kalmyk  steppe  of  the  great  Derbetof  uluss, 
the  horae-breediog  region  of  the  Don  district,  and  the  environa  of  StavropoL  Tho 
material s  of  M.  Fausek  are  being  worked  up  by  him.  With  regard  to  those  collected 
by  M,  Ivanof,  apart  from  their  scieotific  value,  they  have  a  special  practical  interest 
from  their  bearing  on  the  water  supply  of  ateppe  lands.  Among  his  geological  dis- 
coveries reference  may  be  made  to  one  of  a  series  of  Miocene  deposits  tnw;ed  east- 
wards to  the  meridiaa  of  Georgievsk. 

The  expediiion  of  M.  Grum*Grjimailo  to  the  countries  bordering  on  the  Pamir, 
of  M.  Konshine  to  the  Trans- Caspian  region,  and  of  M.  Kuznetsof  to  the  Govero- 
ment  of  Archangel,  received  no  pectioiary  grants  from  the  Society,  but  only  their 
moral  support.  The  results  obtained  by  M.  (:irum-Grjimailo's  first  journey  to  the 
Pamir  in  1884  and  1885  led  him  io  the  following  condusiona  t — The  lopidoptera 
of  the  Pamir  and  adjoining  regions  are  diatiuct  from  those  of  the  Thian  Shau  as  fiir 
as  this  is  known,  but  having  many  points  of  similarity  with  the  lepidoplerous  fauna 
of  the  Hindu-Kush,  at  all  events  as  far  as  tyjiea  common  to  both  would  seem  to 
indicate.  The  inference  from  this  is  that  at  the  period  when  the  lepidoptem  (and 
therefore  other  orders  as  well)  of  the  Pamir  was  established,  this  region  was  in 
closer  connection  with  the  countries  to  the  south  of  it  than  with  those  on  the  nortli ; 
in  other  word»,  the  Pamirs  were  at  that  period  detached  from  the  Thian  Shan, 
*rhi8  may  be  explained  in  either  of  the  two  following  ways:  (I)  a  non*^yncbronous 
upheaval  of  the  two  mountain  masaes,  or  (2)  if  their  upheaval  took  place  at  the 
same  time  there  was  a  certain  interval  of  time  during  which  they  were  parted  from 
one  another  by  a  wide  aqueous  expanse ;  in  other  words,  at  that  period  the  ranges 
which  now  unite  the  Pamir  with  the  Tbian  Shan  were  non-existing,  and  Ferghana 
and  Kashgar  formed  the  bed  of  one  sea — the  Tarim-Ferghanah* 

M»  A.  M.  Konshine  accompauied,  m  geologist,  the  expaiition  of  Dr*  J.  Radde  to 
the  Tran&caspian  country  and  northern  Khorasan.  From  Askabad  M.  Konshine 
passed  through  Merv  to  Charjul  in  Bokhara  In  order  to  examine  the  channel  of  the 
so-called  KeUf  Usboi  and  the  alluvial  deposits  of  the  central  Amu-daria.  RetumiDg 
from  Charjui  to  Merv,  M,  Konshine  joined  M.  lladde's  caravan  and  took  jMirt  in 
hia  journey  np  the  valley  of  the  Murghab  to  Meruchak ;  hence  he  proceeded  along 
the  Afghan  frontier  to  Zulfagar  (Zulfikar)  whence  he  deaoended  via  Pul-i-khatun 
and  Sarakhs  to  Kari-beiid  and  so  to  Askabad.  In  the  course  of  this  journey 
M.  Konshine  examined  the  deposits  of  Glauber  salts  in  the  oasis  of  Merv,  the  common 
rock-salt  in  siiu  at  Ak-rabat,  hillocks  of  nitre  at  Imam-baha,  ^c. 

From  Askabnd  Br.  Kadde  and  his  companion  Konshine  went  to  Kochan,  in 
Khorasan,  thence  following  the  head-watera  of  the  Attrek  to  Keshef-rnd,  they 
descended  to  Meshed,  recroescd  the  Kopet-dagh,  and  reached  the  Akhal  oasis  by 
Deregez  valley, 

M.  Kusnetsof,  whose  ezcnraion  into  the  Government  of  Archangel  in  the  spring 
of  last  year  was  principally  for  botanical  puri^osea,  undertook  a  series  of  barometrical 
observationa  for  obtaining  data  aa  to  the  relief  of  the  country  in  the  valleys  of  the 
Dwina  and  Vaga  })€tween  Vologda  and  Archangel, 


and  bitter  salt  lakes,  indicating  vevj  dearly  a  former  connection  botwetin  these  two  seas. 
It  may  be  worth  mentioning  that  the  idea  was  formerly  entertained  of  reuniting  them  by 
meana  of  a  oaunl. 

•  The  Stavrofiol  Yegorlyks  are  two  liverg,  the  grcatej  and  lesser  Yegor lyks,  flowing 
from  south  to  noxth  to  join  the  Monytclu 


BDSSIAN  GEOGRArHICAL  WOBE  IK  1886. 


431 


Iq  concltiflion  the  report  mentions  that  the  militarj  topographical  department  of 
tli0  Staff  Corps  has  decided  on  perpetuatiag  the  memory  of  Prejevalsky's  renmrkable 
activity  in  exploriEg  Central  Asia  by  connecting  his  name,  now  so  faraons,  with 
one  of  the  mono  tain  ranges  discovered  by  Lim  during  hii  fourth  joamey. 

The  awards  for  geographical  achievements  this  year  have  been  as  follows  :^- 
The  Constantine  medal  to  Grigory  Nikokiovitch  Potanin  for  bis  twenty -five  years' 
labours  in  the  cause  of  geography  in  general,  and  for  his  last  journey  to  China  in 
pBrticnlar.  The  lesser  gold  medals  to  Stephen  Osipovitch  Makarof  for  his  article 
published  in  the  latfestija  entitled  *  Double  curreuta  in  straits/  being  the  results 
of  his  investigatiouB  on  the  flow  and  reflux  of  the  waters  of  the  Black  and  Med  Iter* 
ranean  seas ;  to  Augustus  Ivanovitch  Skassi  for  his  services  in  Po tunings  flxpoditioQ 
into  Kan-3uh ;  to  Andrei  Alexandrovitch  Bolshof  for  his  cartographical  wofkfl ;  to 
Adolf  Georgicvitch  Eigner  for  the  elaboration  of  the  meteorological  materials  of  the 
Ust  Lena  polar  station  j  and  to  Vasaili  Vassilievitch  Zverinsky  for  his  assistance  in 
compiling  the  Geographi co-Statistical  Lexicon  published  by  the  Society, 

Bilver  medals  were  awarded  to  Alexandra  Yictorievna  Potanina  the  unwearying 
companion  of  her  husband  G,  N.  Potanin  in  all  his  journey  a  ^  for  her  active  co-opera- 
tion in  forming  a  herbarium,  keeping  a  meteorological  record,  and  generally  for  the 
part  flhe  took  in  the  expedition ;  to  the  companions  of  N.  M.  Frejevalsky  on  his 
fourth  journey  into  Central  Asia,  viz.  to  Peter  Kozlof  and  Panteley  Teleshof  for 
their  invaluable  asaiatance  to  the  expedition ;  to  Dmitri  Nikolaiovitch  Bukharof  for 
hb  work»  *A  joUTDey  through  Lapland  in  18S3/  published  in  voL  xiv,  of  the 
Zupiski;  *  to  Fmoz  Karlovitch  Schjwrck  for  hia  *  Russia  of  the  Fflr  East,'  published 
in  vol.  xvi.  of  the  Zapiski ;  f  to  Nikolai  Nikolaievitch  Beliafsky  for  hia  article  on  his 
march  across  the  Ust-Urt  from  Tearevitch  Gulf  to  Kungrad ;  to  Gr.  Efim.  Grum- 
Grjmailo  for  his  paper  on  his  two  journeys  to  the  Cis- Pamir  countries  (supra  ^  p.  430) ; 
to  Stanislav  Danilovitch  Bylke  for  his  labours  as  member  of  the  Committee  of  the 
Society  for  deciding  upon  a  first  raeridiau ;  to  Alexander  YasiHevitch  Eliseief  for  his 
report  on  his  travels  through  Arabia  Petraea  and  the  Sahara ;  to  M.  Ivanof  for  his 
map  to  illustrate  E.  S.  Feodorofs  article  entitled  "Information  on  the  Northern 
Ural,"  published  in  vol  xxii.  of  the  Isvesiijit ;  to  Lieut.-CoL  Nadarof  for  his  MS. 
work  on  the  'Northern  Usauri  Country'  and  others.  Bronze  medals  were  also 
awarded^ 

Among  the  most  important  communications  made  to  the  sections  of  the  Society 
were,  the  chief  results  of  A.  M.  Koushine'a  long  continued  inveatigation  in  the  Trana- 
Caspian  region,  leading  him  to  the  conclusion  that  tho  so-called  Kclif  Usboi  or 
Clmrjui  Ungua  which  intersects  the  Kara-kum  ateppe  from  north-west  to  south-east, 
is  only  an  ancient  shore-line  of  the  Caspian,  and  that  it  is  a  gross  mistake  to 
assume  that  the  various  "uogusses"  i.e,  desiccated  bights,  gulfs,  and  lakes,  are  old 
channels  of  the  Amu*daria.  The  Usboi,  in  M.  Kousbioe^a  opinion,  owes  its  origin 
to  a  system  of  coast  lakes,  extending  in  a  chain  parallel  with  the  Ust-Urt  and  the 
former  seaboard.  At  another  sitting  of  these  sections  M.  Jarintsof  read  a  paper  on 
the  cliff  formations  along  the  coast  of  the  Black  Sea  at  Odessa.  His  oonchisions, 
which  were  at  variance  with  those  of  the  late  M,  Barbot  de  Marny,  ivill  be  published 
in  a  forthcoming  volume  of  the  Zapiski,  M.  N.  N.  Beliafsky  communicated  the 
results  of  his  investigations  in  the  Ust-Urt  and  Amu-daria  from  Petro-Alcxandrofek 
to  Charjui.  He  described  the  surveys  that  had  been  made  from  Tsardvitcb  Bay  to 
Kungrad  and  Knnia  Urgendj,  and  from  IIa7ar-asp  up  the  Amu-daria  to  Charjui, 
finally  stating  that  in  hia  opinion  the  best  route  for  a  universal  Husso-Asiatio 


•  See  '  Proceedings  It,G*S.;  1886,  p.  533. 
No,  YIL— July  1887.] 


t  Ibid,  p.  G2. 


432 


RUSSIAN  GEOGRAPHICAL  WORE  DT  1886. 


railro^Ml  would  be  from  Samtof  to  Kungrad,  then  along  the  Amu-dana  to  Kelif,  and 
thence  to  Kabul. 

Tbe  Etknographical  Section  held  six  meetings  during  the  year  at  which  ten  papers 
werc  read  on  subjects  relating  to  the  etlinology  of  the  Russian  people,  the  southern 
Slavs,  LithuauknSp  natives  of  Siberia,  Mongol  Buddliiats,  and  inhabitants  of  the 
Upper  Zarafehan. 


2.  Military  Topographical  Work  %  Officers  of  the  Staff- Coijts  and  Memhen  of  the 
Corps  qf  Military  Topographers  during  1886,* 

Jieccnnaissance  of  the  iShs/em  Slojw  of  the  Korihern  Cm^.^This  work  was 
accomplished  under  the  aUHpices  of  the  Ministry  of  Imperial  Domains  by  the  mining 
engineers  MM,  Feodorof  and  Lebedziniiky  in  conjunction  with  the  topographers 
MM.  Ivanof  and  Koncha,  The  region  surveyed  comprises  the  ridge' of  the  Ural 
and  iKith  its  slo|)es  from  the  river  Vy&lmra  on  the  west  to  the  Lo^va  on  the  east. 
Ill  this  region  100  miles  from  such  large  centres  as  Bogoslofsky  zavod  (iron-works) 
and  the  Turiueky  mines,  the  first  steps  to  obtain  accurate  topographical  and 
geological  data  have  now  been  taken.  The  exjiedition  followeil  for  the  most  part 
river  valleys  where  there  were  abundant  outcrops  of  mountain  formations,  but  it 
was  occasionally  necessary  to  cross  intermediate  tracts  by  paths  only  beaten  by 
the  Vogul  reindeer  sledges  and  their  herds,  where  supplies  had  to  be  accumulated 
beforehand.  Four  hundred  miles  of  route  snrv'cy  were  executed  in  1886,  over  an 
area  of  54 OO  stjuare  versts  along  the  Northern  Ural,  from  the  village  of  Ust-Uls, 
along  the  rivers  VLngera,  Ghuvalka,  and  along  a  path  leading  to  the  northern 
praying  stone.  The  survey  was  made  on  a  scale  of  three  versts  to  the  inch,  by 
means  of  tlio  plane-table,  and  was  based  on  the  positions  determined  by  the  late 
Professor  Kovalsky  of  the  Kazan  University  (Feodorofs  survey  is  mentioned 
aniet  p.  431).     Heights  were  ascertained  by  the  aneroid* 

Expedition  to  ihi  Bokltarian  dominion^j  organised  hy  the  Military  Topograpikical 
Dvparimeni  of  TurkiEtan, — Its  chief  object  was  the  astronomical  tk termination  of 
the  geographical  ccM>rdinate3  of  a  whole  series  of  points  in  Eastern  Bokhara,  in  order 
to  obtain  sure  data  for  the  cartography  of  that  part  of  Central  Asia,  This  work 
was  undertaken  by  M.  Schwarta:,  assistant  director  of  tlitj  astronomical  and  meteoro- 
logical observatory ;  the  method  adopted  was  that  of  lunar  occulta tions ;  the  instru- 
ments used  were  five  pocket  chronometers,  a  Dollond  teleecoixj  for  astronomical  work, 
a  Pifitor  circle  with  an  artificial  horizon,  an  inclinator,  azimuth  compass,  and  Brauer's 
apparatus  for  i>endulum  obBervations.  The  travelling  equipments  were  finally 
arranged  at  Samarkand^  including  forty  shoes  for  each  horse  and  a  box  for  carrying 
the  chronometers.  At  B  a»m.  daily  observations  were  made  for  terrestrial  attractioui 
dip,  and  declination;  at  nine  the  chronometers  were  conlpared  and  solar  altitudes 
taken.  Altitudes  were  again^taken  15  minutes  before  noon,  followed  by  readings 
of  Ihe  barometer,  aneroids,  and  thermometer.  At  two  the  chronometers  were  again 
compared.  Every  computation  that  could  be  was  made  on  the  spot  immediately 
after  the  observations.  Bad  weather  accompanied  M,  Schwartz  throughout,  while  the 
intense  heat  on  the  bare  steppes  burst  the  glass  fittings  of  his  instruments  and  the 
ivory  rings  of  his  field  -glass.  I  n  add  i  tion  to  t  heso  mis  fortunes,  m  j  ri  ads  o  f  mosqu  i  toes 
on  the  bank  of  the  Amu-dariaj  and  the  peculations  of  the  AmliAkdars  (tax  collectors) 
terribly  exhausted  M.  Schwartz's  physical  strength,  weakened  as  he  was  by  the 
attacks  of  tbe  Shirabad  fever,  which  obliged  him  to  take  quinine  in  doses  of  40  grains. 


*  Extnicted  from  the  Report  publiehed  in  the  *  Bug^ki  Invalid,*  and  Mndly  commu- 
nicated  by  our  Hen.  C!oTiesponding  Member,  M.  Yenukof. 


ROSSIAN  GEOGKAPHICAL  WORK  OT  1886, 


48S 


From  Shimbad  he  proceeded  viJl  Daisun,  Yurohi,  Karatagb,  K&firnahflD,  Puizabad, 
Baljiian,  to  Khovalin,  10  miles  from  the  tovvo  of  Aksii,  a  place  replete  wltk  clasBicftl 
memories,  nod  qow  chiefly  remarkable  for  it8  fortress  built  of  stones  and  timbers, 
answeriog  closely  to  the  deacriptioQ  of  tboae  mentioned  bj  Cfuear  in  \m  campaigns 
in  Gaul.  From  Aksu  M.  Schwartz|went  towards  Gharm.  Between  Tabi-dara  and 
Chil-ilira  the  route  folio wa  the  lofty  and  precipitous  right  bank  oftheKhitigou  along 
narrow  cormcea,  Bome  ofAvhich  wer^  so  nearly  washed  away  aa  to  necessitate  d^toura 
by  the  creata  of  the  mountains  through  thick  brushwood  and  along  the  road  over 
the  sharp  ridge  of  Sliali-Kandagh,  by  which  Captain  Rodionof  paased  in  1886,  From 
Gharm  the  expedition  continued  to  foUow  Hodionofs  itinerary  to  Zanku  along  the 
Pi  tan-Kill  and  over  the  southern  Bok-bash  Pas8»  Abo\re  Kirch  in  the  river-beds 
were  blocked  with  snow,  the  drifts  at  the  end  of  August  lying  15  feet  deep. 

Nearly  opposite  the  month  of  the  Laisu  rivulet,  which  falls  into  the  FitaD-Kul, 
there  is  a  pretty  waterfall,  Sharmarak,  150  feet  high  in  three  descents.  From  the 
valley  of  the  Gadai-eai,  one  of  the  head-streams  of  the  Laisu,  M.  Schwartz  went  to 
Kara-kaza  by  a  circuitous  route^  In  ascending  the  Bok-bash  (about  ll^OCK)  feet), 
the  raid  crossed  a  snow-field  for  several  mties,  while  on  the  opposite  slope  Kirghiz 
summer  eQcampmenta  were  mot  with,  a  contrast  attributable  to  the  fact  that  the 
aqueous  vapours  entering  Turkistan  from  the  Bouth-weat  deposit  theix  moisture  in 
those  defiles  which  are  open  in  that  quarter.  On  the  17th  (129th)  August  the 
expedition  rested  at  the  foot  of  Kara-kazyk  Pass,  at  a  height  of  14,500  leet,  before 
commencing  the  very  steep  descent,  over  dcSbris  and  ice ;  for  two  versls  it  passed 
over  a  glacier,  and  then  followed  the  rocky  bed  of  a  torrent  leading  to  the  military 
road  to  Viiadil,  constructed  in  1878.  Hence  the  expedition  returned  via  Marghika 
and  Khojend  to  Tashkent  on  the  30th  August  (11th  September). 

During  their  116  days'  journey  they  fixed  34  fjointa  astronomically, 
50  magnetically,  and  observed  for  altitude  at  335  places*  M.  Myshenkof,  one  of 
M.  Schwartz's  companions,  colloobed  information  on  the  naphtha  springs,  gold-fielda, 
and  other  mineral  resources  of  this  part  of  Bokhara,  while  M.  Hudnef  executed  the 
topoGjaphical  work.  He  recoonoitied  the  western  part  of  the  Shahri-sebz  range 
between  Takhta  Karacha  and  Djam,  passed  thn^ugh  the  Bokharian  settlement  of 
Tutla  [Tulta?]  and  thence  back  to  Kitab.  The  late  spring,  constant  raina,  and 
snow-fall  interfered  greatly  with  his  work,  and  rendered  the  passage  of  the  Takhta- 
Karacha  unusually  difficult,  M.  Rudnef  met  M.  Myshenkof  at  Samarkand  on  the 
20th  April  (2nd  May)  and  the  two  started  together  to  re-cross  the  Takhta* Karacha  pass 
to  Kitab  and  Shahrahaus  (a  phice  erroneously  rendered  on  maps  as  "Shahr,*'  its 
native  name  being  "Shahrshaus").  Their  advance  was  again  delayed  by  the 
imtMssable  state  of  the  roads  in  the  Kashka-daria  valley.  The  Shahri-sebz  range 
attains  its  highest  altitude  between  Takhta- Karacha  pass  and  Djam.  From  this 
centre  the  mountains  diminish  in  height,  and  bear  more  the  character  of  tablelands 
covered  wltli  luxuriant  pasturnge  and  arable  land.  The  northern  slopes  are  less 
adapted  for  tillage,  owing  to  their  rocky  nature  and  their  steelier  gradients,  than  the 
southern,  at  the  foot  of  which  there  estends  a  ridge  of  hills  forming  a  continuation 
of  a  northern  spur  of  the  Hisaar  range.  Tlie  streams  flowing  northwards  are  srniiUer 
than  those  which  roll  their  watera  to  the  Bokharian  settlements.  One  of  these, 
Makret,  has  an  extent  of  about  four  versta  (2 J  milcH),  while  another,  Kalkama,  is 
even  more  popnlous.  Four  caravan  passes  cross  the  range*  The  direct  road  vift 
Derbent,  Yakkabagh,  Tash*kurgan,  and  the  head-waters  of  the  Katta-uru-daria  and 
Kichi-uru*daria  being  found  impassable  the  expedition  followed  that  via  Yar-tiube, 
Kalta-minar,  and  Kara-khaval,  crossing  the  above-mentioned  rivers  in  their  louver 
courses.  From  Derbend  they  followed  the  foot  of  the  Ak-tau  mountains  to  Shirabad, 
visiting  the  snlphur  and  naphtha  springs  of  Shakarlyk-astan, 

2  I  2 


434 


KHSSIAi^  GEOGRAPHICAL  WORK  IN  1886, 


On  tli€  3rd(15Lh)  June  M.  Myahenkof  returned  to  Samarkand,  while  M.  Rudnef 
continued  Im  topograpliical  survey.  Owing  to  the  approach  of  the  Mahommedaa 
fast  no  guide  would  consent  to  undertake  a  march  of  50  miles  through  barren 
mountains  exposed  to  the  fierce  heat  of  the  sun,  il.  Rudnef  had  therefore  to  confine 
himself  to  a  reconnaissance  of  the  western  slopes  of  the  Terekli-tau  range  and  the 
waterless  Tash-rabat  valley.  He  then  reached  the  Talley  of  Lahur  which  terminatea 
in  a  salt  lake,  visited  in  1884  by  another  topographer,  M.  Petrof.  On  the  17th(29th) 
June  M.  Rudnef  reached  Baljuan*  He  found  in  the  y alley  of  the  Darai-dash-tak 
burning  schiata,  and  in  the  mountains  north  of  Baljnan  traces  of  lead.  Having 
crossed  the  Ruyut  Pass  near  some  salt-works,  M.  Rudnef  w&s  obliged  to  return  ta 
Baljnan  to  connect  his  snrvey  with  tiiat  of  M.  Rodionof,  At  the  settlement  of 
Suk-seh,  M.  Rudnef  visited  the  gold-washings,  said  to  be  the  richest  in  Bokharian 
territory,  and  employing  the  inhabitants  of  four  villages,  each  labourer  earning 
60  copecks  a  day.  He  also  visited  the  gold-fields  of  Khovalio,  about  four  milea 
above  Hazret-sultan.  Having  haUed  at  Chil-dara  the  expedition  went  westward 
along  the  right  bank  of  the  Obi-Ehingou,  which  forces  its  way  between  precipitous 
cliffs  1400  feet  high»  The  path  winds  along  cornices,  supported  on  wooden  propa 
overhanging  the  rushing  torrent  some  hundreds  of  feet  below.  Here  the  most 
experienced  monntaioeer  dismounts  and  holds  by  his  horse's  tail*  On  the  27th  June 
(0th  July)  M.  Rndnef  arrived  at  Gharm,  whence  avoiding  the  valley  of  Dushti-bidan, 
^ji  old  glacier  bed,  he  reached  Kafimahan,  The  road  from  Kafimalmn  to  Ura-tiube 
pasfies  along  the  valley  over  the  Sardi-mion,  over  the  Hisaar,  Zarafshan,  and 
Turkifltan  ranges,  and  crosses  the  rivers  en  route  by  swingiog  bridges,  for  the  use  of 
which  the  Bokharians  levy  a  tolL  This  is  the  only  tolerable  road  for  pack  animals,, 
and  may  be  aocomphshed  in  five  days  from  Kafimahan  to  Ura-tiube,  and  in  three 
days  more  to  the  Amu-daria,  though  the  Bek  of  Hissar  said  that  he  could  reach  Ura- 
tiube  in  three  days  if  he  were  obliged  to  run.  By  this  route  the  Russian  dominions 
are  supplied  with  corn,  asses,  horses,  homed  cattle,  and  sheep.  From  Kafimahan 
M.  Rudnef  turned  westward  by  the  spurs  of  the  Hiasar  range ;  having  arrived  at 
Sarijui  he  took  a  north-westerly  direction  by  the  difficult  Sangardak  defile,  and 
arrived  at  Karshi,  his  health  and  that  of  his  Cossacks  having  suflered  so  severely 
from  constant  fevers  that  he  has  not  yet  recovered*  During  tho  last  three  years 
four-fifths  of  the  population  of  the  Kashka-daria  valley  between  Karshi  and  Chirakchi 
have  fallen  victims  to  this  fever.  Completely  prostrated  by  illness,  M.  Rudnef 
returned  to  Samarkaad. 

Another  topographer,  M.  Glagolef,  attached  to  the  expedition  of  Captain  Poko- 
tillo,  began  surveying  from  Karatagh  down  the  left  bank  of  the  Surkhan ;  he  recon- 
noitred both  banks  of  the  Yaksh  and  part  of  the  right  bank  of  tho  Paudj  to  the 
defile  of  Chaila-kamar,  where  huge  mountains  prevent  access  to  the  Pandj*  He 
found  tho  pass  of  Yalvayak  to  be  11,000  feet  high.  From  Tilliakli  viH  Zygar  to 
Kala-i-khumb  and  beyond,  the  road  is  for  the  most  part  carried  along  ooroicea  and 
balconies  some  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  river  which  has  a  current  of  about 
10  miles  an  hour  and  forms  numerous  waterfalls.  M.  Glagolef  and  his  party 
travelled  on  foot  while  their  instruments  were  carried  by  hand,  and  often  erected  in 
spots  where  a  single  false  step  would  have  cost  a  life.  Owing  to  the  commanding 
height  of  the  right  bank  of  the  Pandj,  it  was  possible  to  snrvey  the  left  bank  with 
sufficient  accuracy  and  to  trace  out  the  boundary  of  the  sinistral  riparian  possessions 
of  the  Bokharians.  From  Kala-i-khumb  the  expedition  crossed  the  Darwaz  and 
Peter  the  Great  ranges  to  Gharm* 

Survey  in  the  Zatafthan, — In  February  188G,  Captain  Pariisky,  of  the  corps  of 
military  to]iogTaphera,  was  ordered  to  the  left  bank  of  the  Zarafshan,  between  Pen- 
jakent  and  the  Bokharian  frontier,  in  order  to  fix  a  base  for  the  survey  of  this  region, 


RtJSSIAX  GEOGRAPHICAL  WORK  IN  1886. 


m 


the  18T5  survey  having  been  interrupted  by  the  war  which  broke  out  m  that  je&r 
with  the  Khna  of  Kokand.  Soon  after  the  departure  of  Captain  Pariisky  from 
Tashkent,  the  fine,  dry  weather  which  had  continued  during  (he  whole  of  the  winter 
<jf  1885-6  suddenly  changed  to  rain  and  frost  wliich  lasted  all  through  March  and 
April.  The  spring  of  1886  was  altogether  an  exceptional  one  in  Tnrkistan ;  the 
rainfall  was  so  heavy  that  the  Syr-daria  overflowed  its  banks,  which  had  not  occurred 
for  fifty  years ;  communications  with  Samarkand  were  consequently  cut  off,  wliile 
at  Khojend  several  buildings  were  washed  away.  The  rains  were  accompanied  by 
€old  and  vegetation  was  unusually  backward.  The  aurvey  operations  had  to  he 
conducted  beyond  the  Darghan  canal  in  a  ateppe  country  almost  wholly  interB4?cted 
by  deep  ravines.  The  bordering  strip  of  fertile  land  la  but  thinly  inhabited,  but 
pack  animals  are  abundant,  so  that  the  dry  baulks  for  erecting  signal  stations,  which 
could  only  he  obtained  at  Samarkand,  were  transported  by  the  completely  spoilt  roads 
on  asses.  The  festival  of  "  the  holy  water"  and  the  new  year  also  mude  the  natives 
indisposed  to  hire  themselves  out  as  labourers  for  Captain  Pariisky.  In  the  twelve 
years  that  have  elapsed  since  the  interruption  of  the  survey  in  the  Zarafshan 
district  many  old  signals  have  disappeared,  and  only  traces  of  them  could  here  and 
there  be  found.  However,  at  length  the  object  was  attained,  and  the  survey  of 
1886  was  admirably  joined  with  the  renovated  signal  posts  and  the  old  survey.  In 
all  1108  sq.  versta  WBjre  surveyed  on  either  side  of  Samarkand,  It  was  proved 
that  the  cultivation  of  the  country  had  nndergone  a  marked  change ;  the  number  of 
buildings  and  gardens  had  increased,  parti^cularly  in  that  part  of  Samarkand  occupied 
by  the  Russians,  as  well  as  in  the  Miyankal  valley,  changes  in  a  measure  due  to  the 
altered  course  of  the  Kara-dana.  This  interesting  phenomenon  had  been  in  a 
measure  caused  by  the  usual  physical  inSucnces  which  alter  river  courses  in  Central 
Asia,  as  well  as  by  the  erection  of  a  now  dam  in  1882,  two  versts  above  the  old  one 
{the  fall  of  the  Ak-daria  is  considerably  greater  than  that  of  the  Kara-daria, 
and  the  object  of  the  dam  was  to  divert  water  into  this  southern  arm  of  the 
Zarafahan).  The  inhabited  points  in  tho  Zanifshan  district  are  quite  dilferont  from 
those  in  Ferghana  where  the  people  live  in  settlements  of  some  size  with  con- 
stant bazaars.  The  Zarafshan  district,  on  the  other  hand,  is  covered  with  a 
network  of  detached  huts  and  settlements,  in  which  bazaars  rarely  occur,  and  these 
only  on  certain  days.  The  nature  of  tho  country  to  the  east  of  Samarkand  differs 
from  that  on  the  west.  While  the  former  is  abundantly  watered  by  the  Zarafshan, 
and  is  almost  one  continuous  rice-field,  the  region  to  the  west  of  Samarkand  depends 
either  on  minfall  for  its  water  supply,  or  on  irrigating  dykes  led  from  the  hills  near 
the  Bokharian  frontier.  Between  these  two  tracts  lies  a  belt  of  stef^jKS  land.  In  a 
hygienic  sense  one  would  have  expected  the  rice-fields  to  he  the  most  unhealthy 
part,  but  the  opposite  is  really  tho  <^se.  The  officers  and  men  engaged  in  the 
survey  enjoyed  pretty  good  health  in  the  eastern  district,  whereas  in  that  on  the 
west  topographers  and  natives  fell  sick  with  fever,  except  the  children  of  the  latter, 
who  kept  their  health  well. 

lieconnamancc  of  ike  JS^r-daria  region. — In  1886  this  reconnaissance  served  as 
a  continuation  of  similar  work  carried  out  in  1885  in  the  district  of  Kliojend  and  the 
Zarafshan  region  in  the  western  part  of  the  Turkistan  range,  beginning  at  its  northern 
outliers.  Having  taken  in  the  former  Ura-tiube  region,  the  survey  passed  into  the 
Kurarainsk  district^  intersectingjtho  Syr-daria  at  two  points  above  and  below  tho 
Begovatsky  rapids.  Here,  too,  changes  were  found  to  have  taken  place  during  the 
last  twenty  years,  owing  to  the  increase  of  population  and  the  greater  extent  of 
cultivated  lands.  The  rivers  Maidan-tai  and  Ugam,  hitherto  not  entered  on  the 
map,  owing  to  their  inaccessibility,  were  found  to  belong  to  the  basin  of  the  Chir- 
chik,  and  to  have  their  sources  in  the  snowy  Karatan  range.    The  passes,  Maidan- 


430 


RUSSIAN  GEOGRAPHICAL  WORK  IN  1886. 


tal-asbu,  Turpak-bel,  and  Kurum-jul,  all  above  10,000  feet,  are  continually  covered 
with  snow.  The  roails  here  are  quite  imtouched  ;  they  are  mere  footpaths  winding 
along  steep,  rocky  cliffSj  or  in  defiles  obstructed  by  huge  boulders  of  rock.  Owing 
to  the  heavy  snowfalls  in  the  winters  of  1685  and  1886,  the  water  in  the  brooks 
and  rivulets  rose  so  high  that  bridges  and  fords  were  injured  or  swept  away.  The 
April  and  May  rains  washed  away  all  traces  of  paths  on  the  steep  slopes,  and  added 
further  to  the  difEculties  of  the  rcconnaiasance. 

Survey  in  the  tnim-Caspian  rfyttm.— This  was  done  in  the  districts  of  Tedj  end 
and  Merv,  l)etween  the  lyth  (27th)  May,  and  the  12tb  (24th)  October,  by  five  topogra- 
phers, on  the  scale  of  2  versts  to  the  inch.  In  the  Tedjend  district  13,336  square 
versts  were  surveyed,  containing  mostly  a  sandy,  waterless,  and  uninhabited  tract. 
The  survey  was  based  on  positions  previously  fixed  astronomicaDy,  and  aceurately 
tested  by  measurement  of  base-lines.  Five  topographerB  also  worked  in  the  Merv 
district.  Here,  owing  to  the  want  of  trigonometrical  data  they  depended  on  a  net- 
work of  angles,  taking  as  a  base  the  nearest  pqints  of  the  instrumental  survey  of  the 
Merv  oasis,  accomplished  in  1884  on  a  scale  of  1166  yards  to  the  inch,  and  the 
astronomical  positions  of  TJtch-adji,  l^epetek,  and  Charjui  fixed  by  Captain  Gedeonof 
of  the  Staff  CJorps,  An  extent  of  9827  square  versts  of  8tepi>e  were  surveyed,  and 
1693  square  versts  in  tlie  Amu-daria  oasis,  extending  for  a  distance  of  about  53  miles 
down  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  between  Eldjik  ferry  and  Sakar-bazar  settlement. 
The  ground  is  everywhere  much  cut  up  by  watercourses,  and  covered  with  detached 
builJings,  snmll  gardens,  frnit  orchardii,  and  single  trees,  causing  much  impediment 
to  the  work  of  survey.  Prom  Charjui  up  the  Amu  valley  to  the  ruins  of  Kuraim- 
kala  near  the  river  bank  opposite  Burdalyk,  and  aa  far  as  Sakar-bazar,  the  country 
is  thickly  inhabited  by  Bokharian  Sarts,  and  further  up  the  river  by  Ersari  Turko- 
mans divided  into  four  tribes,— Kara,  Karabeksnli,  Ulutepe,  and  Glinesh.  This 
population  occupies  a  belt  of  land  from  3  to  10  miles  wide,  so  richly  cultivated,  and 
well  irrigated  from  the  Amu,  as  to  have  the  appearance  of  a  continuous  gawlen  for 
upwards  of  50  miles.  A  similar  tract  of  fertile  soil  extends  to  Kelif.  According  to 
the  guides  there  are  five  wells  along  the  only  road  between  Merv  and  Burdalyk, 
118  miles  long,  and  only  one  of  these,  Bcyur-Desliik,  contains  freah  water. 

Besides  these  ten  topographers,  the  Frontier  Commission  under  the  command  of 
Coi  Kuhlberg  was  at  work,  English  engineers  surveyed  from  Daulat-abad  along 
both  sides  of  the  Russo- Afghan  frontier,  through  Andkoi  in  a  north-easterly  direction 
as  far  as  the  Russian  surveyed  belt  along  the  Amu-daria  valley,  on  the  scalo  of  2 
Engligh  miles  to  the  inch*  The  whole  area  surveyed  by  the  Commission  amounted 
to  25,909  square  versts,  a  tract  of  dreary  arid  desert  without  any  inhabitants,  and 
only  covered  with  grass  in  the  spring,  when  a  few  uomads  pasture  their  docks  and 
herds  there*  After  the  severe  winter,  accompanied  by  snow  and  frost  (reaching 
—  23''  Fakr.),  a  short  spring  set  in  foliowed  by  a  sultry  summer  with  a  burning 
sun,  and  a  temperature  in  the  shade  of  113°  Fahr.  There  were  several  cases  of 
sunstroke,  and  the  members  of  the  Tedjend  and  Merv  sections  suffered  from  a  scarcity 
of  provisions  and  water »  The  Tedjend  topographers  could  only  obtain  supplies  at 
Sarybend,  and  those  of  the  Merv  district  at  Merv  itself. 

The  Omsk  MilUary4opo^mphi€al  BepartmmL — The  geographical  positiona  of 
22  points  have  been  chronometrically  detennined  in  a  region  bounded  on  the  north 
by  the  Ifihim,  from  the  town  of  Akmolinsk  through  the  Stanitza  of  Atbasar  to  the 
villajie  of  Chelkar;  on  the  east,  by  the  road  from  Akmolinsk  to  the  whilom  fort 
Aktaf ;  on  the  south,  by  the  parallel  of  Ulatau ;  and  on  the  west  by  the  border  of 
the  district  of  Turgai  and  the  Government  of  Orenburg.  This  region,  from  the 
Kokchetaf  Mountains  to  the  [jaralkl  of  Akmolinsk,  is  a  perfectly  level  plain, 
almost  destitute  of  trees,  but  with  a  fertile  soil  well  watered  by  the  lahim.    Here 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES, 


48? 


settlementfl  are  frequent  and  the  roads  are  exoeUent.  South  of  Akmolinfik,  towards 
the  Bary-sUy  the  aspect  chaoges,  03  the  country  becomes  a&  undulatm^  p!aio. 
Frotn  the  ea&tem  borders  of  the  Akmoliask  district  towards  the  centre  of  the  tract 
sketched  out^  there  occur  craters  of  extinct  volcanoes  known  by  Tariou^  names. 
Theae  become  more  frequent  towards  the  Turgai  diatrict  and  form  tbe  rocky  Ulataa 
Mountains.  Here,  again,  the  soil  in  prolific,  and  the  country  well  watered,  though 
there  are  no  settlers,  Tbe  lords  of  these  wide  lands  are  the  nomadic  Kirghiz  of 
Akmolinsk  and  Atbazar  districts.     The  rivulets  here  arc  very  difficult  to  cross. 

In  1886,  a  scries  of  levels  was  completed  from  tbe  town  of  Petropavlofsk  through 
Kokchetaf  and  Atbazar  to  Akmoliusk*  Surveys  were  made— {!)  In  the  Akmolinsk 
district  along  the  borders  of  the  Governments  of  Tobolsk  and  Orenburg,  (2)  In 
the  Barlyk  Mountains  and  in  the  valley  of  the  Emel ;  and  (3)  In  the  Khan  Tengri 
expedition.  In  the  Akmolinsk  39^367  sq.  versta  were  surveyed  on  the  5- v erst 
scale.  Here  the  naturo  of  the  ground  required  a  large  number  of  contour  lines ; 
thickets  are  frequent,  serving  to  Bht4ter  tbe  wintering  stations  of  the  nomads  ;  lakes, 
both  fresh  and  salt,  as  well  as  desiccated  kke^beds^  are  numerous  ;  and  a  network 
of  Toads  give;B  access  to  the  heart  of  the  country. 

The  survey  and  astronomical  observations  in  the  vallc*y  of  the  Emel,  from  the 
frontier  pillar  at  Manitu  to  Dowbuljln  with  the  steppe  lying  to  the  south  of  it  in  the 
eastern  part  of  the  hilly  country  of  Barlyk,*  and  along  the  hitherto  unknown  Djair 
mountain  range  and  valley  of  the  Namyn-gol,  was  entrusted  to  Captain  Zakrjefsky 
and  topogmpher  Bogdanof.  In  the  hills  of  Barlyk  there  are  no  carriage  roads,  and 
the  instruments  had  all  to  be  carried  on  pack-horses.  The  5-verst  scale  was 
adopted  i  the  angles  were  measmred  by  the  Stephan  compass  and  the  distances  by 
intersections  or  by  the  eye.  Bogdanof  surveyed  the  northern  part  of  the 
valley  of  the  Emel  along  its  left  side,  the  course  of  the  Ak-su  and  its  head-water ;  the 
western  spurs  of  the  Urkashar  range,  the  western  Djair  Mountains,  and  the  south- 
aastem  part  of  the  Maili  Hills.  Captain  Zakrjefsky,  besides  fixing  a  series  of 
astronomical  points,  surveyed  the  northern  slope  and  eastern  part  of  tbe  Barlyk 
Mountains,  the  valley  of  the  Kup,  the  plain  of  Konur-obo  together  with  the  oon* 
tignous  stiuthern  slopes  of  Barlyk  and  part  of  the  Maili  Hills,  About  10,000  sq. 
verats  were  mapped  in  this  way,  and  this  Uttle  known  and  interesting  part  of  Dsiun- 
garia  described. 


GEOGBAPHIOAL  NOTEa 

Geography  at  Oxford, — It  ia  aimotmced  that  the  Bucceeafnl  candidate 
for  tbe  important  post  of  Eeader  in  Geography,  id  tbe  institution  of 
which  the  Kojal  Geografihical  Society  has  taken  aucli  pereistent  interest, 
is  Mr.  Halford  J.  Muckinder,  5I.a.,  whose  geographical  lectures  have 
attracted  large  audiences  during  the  past  two  seasons  at  the  chief 
centres  of  the  Oxford  University  ExteGsion  in  the  north  and  west  of 
England.  The  interests  of  geography  as  an  important  and  definite 
branch  of  knowledge  and  as  a  necessary  element  in  education  will  ^:^Q 
safe  in  Mr.  Mackinder's  hands. 

*  That  part  of  Chinese  territory^  houndod  on  the  north  by  the  Emel,  on  the  oast  by 
the  Bogflokhan  road^  on  the  south  by  the  Maili  range,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Buatian 
frontier,  is  known  generally  as  the  Barlyk  Lilly  eountry« 


438 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


JubOee  Address  to  H.M.  the  Queen — The  following  Address  from 
the  Society  was  forwarded  last  week  to  the  Home  Secretary,  for 
presentation  to  the  Queen  on  the  auspicious  occasion  of  the  completion 
of  fifty  years  of  Her  Majesty^s  reign :— * 

To  THE  Queen's  Most  Excellent  Majesty, 

TIw  huinble  address  of  the  Prmdent^  Council^  and  Fellows  of  ihe  Eoyal 
Geographical  Sociclif, 

May  it  please  Your  Majesty, 

We^  the  President,  Council,  and  Fellows  of  the  Royal  Geographical 
Society,  beg  leave  to  offer  to  your  Majesty  our  most  respectful  and 
dutiful  congratulationB  on  the  completion  of  the  fiftieth  year  of  Your 
Majesty's  reign. 

Specially  honoured  as  our  Society  is  by  the  patronage  of  Your 
Majesty,  and  the  favour  of  the  illustrious  Princes  your  sons,  their  Koyal 
Highnesses  the  Prince  of  Wales  and  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  wo  grate- 
fully take  this  occasion  to  assure  Your  Majesty  that  it  has  been  the 
constant  endeavour  of  the  Eoyal  Geographical  Society  to  merit  the 
honour  thus  conferred  upon  us,  and  to  discharge  the  obligations  arising 
from  our  position,  by  promoting  the  cause  of  Geographical  exploration 
and  science  to  the  utmost  of  our  ability. 

And  we  venture,  very  respectfully,  to  assure  Tour  Majesty  that 
remarkable  as  has  been  the  progress  in  all  branches  of  Science  which 
has  characterised  Your  Majesty's  reign,  and  which  will  certaioly  render 
that  reign  memorable  in  all  future  time,  there  is  no  branch  of  knowledge 
the  additions  to  which  have  been  more  important  than  those  made  to 
Geography.  Our  Society,  without  arrogating  to  itself  undue  honour, 
may  fairly  claim  to  have  been  largely  instrumental  in  promoting  the 
enterprise  through  which  these  results  have  been  obtained,  and  w^e  are 
proud  to  have  been  furnished  through  the  Royal  favour  with  the  means 
of  conveying  to  many  distinguished  travellers  and  other  persons  who 
have  rendered  signal  services  to  Geographical  science  and  explora- 
tion, a  highly  esteemed  and  honourable  recognition  of  their  labours, 
by  the  award  of  the  Royal  Medals  which  Your  Majesty's  bounty 
provides. 

That  so  large  a  portion  of  the  globe  has  been  opened  up  to  colonisa- 
tion and  other  civilising  influences  during  Your  Majesty's  reign  has  in 
no  small  measure  been  due  to  such  Geographical  exploration ;  and  as 
dutiful  subjects  of  the  Sovereign  whose  dominions  extend  into  all  quar* 
tors  of  the  globe »  and  embrace  nearly  a  sixth  part  of  the  habitable  earth, 
we  desire  humbly  to  offer  our  congratulations  on  the  great  moral  and 
material  progress  in  all  parts  of  those  dominions  and  their  dependencies, 
which  has  distinguished  the  fifty  years  of  Your  Majesty's  reign,  and  on 
the  continued  loyalty  and  devotion  to  Your  Majesty  shown  throughout 


GEOGBAPHICAL  NOTES, 


489 


the  great  and  glorious  Empire  over  which  Your  Majesty  has  been  called 
to  rule. 

For  the  maintenance  of  the  integrity  and  unity  of  thia  Empire,  and 
for  the  proBperous  and  peaceful  prolongation  of  Your  Majesty's  reign, 
your  faithful  subjects  the  President^  Council,  and  Fellows  of  the  Royal 
Oeogimphical  Society  will  ever  pray* 

Olemcnts  E.  Mabkham,  Eichaed  Steachey, 

Douglas  W.  FEBSffFiELD,  President. 

Secrelariea, 

Diego  Cam*s  Memorial  Stone  at  the  Mouth^of  the  Congo. — ^By  a  letter 
kindly  communicated  to  us  by  Mr.  E.  K.  Gray  we  learn  that  Baron  von 
Schwerin,  the  Swedish  traveller,  at  the  close  of  his  recent  expedition  * 
and  after  his  journey  overland  from  Banana  and  Maanda  to  Boma,  has 
discovered  the  celebrated  "Pedra  Padrao,"  or  inscribed  stone,  which 
the  Portuguese  navigator  erected  at  the  mouth  of  the  Congo  on  the 
occasion  of  his  memorable  discovery  of  the  river.  Yon  Schwerin  was 
about  returning  to  Europe,  after  taking  soundings  on  the  south  bank 
off  the  Congo  moutb,  when  he  learnt  from  Senhor  Franca  at  St.  Antonio 
that  the  natives  of  the  locality  had  spoken  to  him  of  a  large  "  fetish 
stone  **  hidden  in  the  jungle.  After  several  palavers  with  native  chiefs. 
Yon  Schwerin  persuaded  them  to  show  him  and  Sonbor  Franca  the  way 
to  the  stone,  of  which  they  stood  much  in  awe.  It  was  found  at  some 
distance  from  the  beach  and  proved  to  be  indubitably  the  remains  of 
the  Pedra  Padrao.  Details  of  the  discoveiy  may  be  expected  soon  from 
Lisbon. 

A  Hew  Afirican  Lake.— We  learn  from  a  recent  official  despatch  of 
Mr,  Hawes,  our  Consul  in  the  Nyassa  region^  that  a  small  lake  has  been 
discovered  south-east  of  Lake  Shirwa  or  Kilwa,  Mr,  Hawes'  description 
IB  as  follows : — Lake  Limbi  is  a  narrow  sheet  of  water  having  an  outlet 
flowing  into  the  southern  end  of  Lake  Shirwa.  Its  position  has  not  as 
yet  been  marked  on  any  of  the  maps  of  Central  Africa,  but  I  understand 
from  Mr,  Last  that  he  fixed  it  during  his  journey  to  the  Namuli  Hills 
last  August.  The  lake  abounds  with  wild-fowl  and  other  birds,  and  is 
the  abode  of  numbers  of  hippopotami.  The  water  is  muddy  and  scarcely 
fit  for  drinking  purposes.  The  only  other  water  in  the  neighbourhood 
is  a  discoloured  thickish  litjuid  obtained  from  pools  dug  in  the  clayey 
8oil« 

Emin  Bey. — The  last  batch  of  letters  which  have  reached  Europe  from 
the  beleaguered  traveller,  are  published  in  Petermann's  *  Mitteilungon ' 
(No.  6).  They  bear  various  dates  from  lOfch  August,  1883,  to  26th 
October  1886,  and  are  principallyoooupied  with  news  of  his  position  and 
prospects  at  difierent  periods.      The  last  of  these  letters,  that  of  the  26th 

♦  Vide  *  Proceedings  B.G,a,*  1885,  p.  817, 


440 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NQTI^. 


October,  1886,  is  of  geographical  iBterest,  and  gives  a  few  details  of  his 
excuraiona  to  Lake  Albert  Nyaoza.  •*  I  aetid  you,**  he  says,  "  a  report  upon 
a  tour  to  Albert  Nyanza*  Since  writing  it  I  have  made  two  further 
journeys  to  the  lake  and  collected  a  masa  of  new  information,  I  eould 
have  sent  yon  the  detailed  map  at  once,  but  since  there  are  still  some 
points  which  need  to  be  cleared  up,  I  will  wait,  and  meanwhile  give 
you  brieiy  the  principal  results  of  my  work*  First  of  all  is  the  dis- 
covery of  a  new  river  which  flows  down  from  the  U-aongora  Mountains ; 
it  is  of  considerable  size,  and  Mows  south  into  the  lake.  The  river, 
which  is  called  Eakibbi  by  the  Wa-aongora,  and  Dueru  by  the  "Wa-mboga, 
formK  near  its  mouth  a  large  island.  It  is,  however,  on  account  of  its 
numerous  rapids,  very  difficult  to  navigate,  but  on  the  other  hand  it 
pours  into  the  lake  all  the  year  round  a  large  volume  of  water.  Upon 
its  banka,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  lake,  is  situated  the  town  of 
Hamgurko,  where  a  quantity  of  salt  of  excellent  q^uality  is  obtainable. 
The  Kakihbi  or  Dueru  forms  the  boundary  between  the  district  of 
Muenge,  which  belongs  to  TJ-nyoro,  in  the  east,  and  the  M-boga  country 
in  the  west-  In  the  west-north-west  and  north  M-boga  w  bounded  by 
Leundi,  a  district  which  lies  behind  the  mountains  on  the  borders  of  the 
lake.  Farther  west  I  found  a  region  peopled  by  races  which  I  consider 
to  be  the  Iddio  (A-Zandeh),  In  the  south-west  there  is,  as  I  was  told, 
a  river,  on  the  banks  of  which  a  colony  of  the  curious  dwarf  race  or 
Akkas,  called  Ealia  by  the  Unyoro  people^  exists,  but  they  show  them- 
selves in  their  speech  to  be  Betua,  I  could  give  here  a  quantity  of 
information  about  the  fair  Wa-huma  of  Mruli  and  the  Torn  Mountains, 
and  also  about  the  Wa-kondje,  &c. ;  for  the  present  the  above  must 
suffice/*  These  letters  were  brought  from  Lado  on  the  return  of  the 
caravan  which  Dr,  Junker  had  sent  to  Fmin  Bey. 

The  River  Mobangi. — The  latest  journey  up  this  important  tributary 
of  the  Congo  is  that  accomplished  by  Captain  van  Gele,  who  in  October 
to  December  last  navigated  the  river  as  far  as  the  San  go  rapids,  which 
Grenfell  surmounted  in  the  Peace  in  January  1885.  Captain  van  Grele 
surveyed  the  following  tributaries  of  the  Mobangi,  which  Grenfell 
remarked  but  did  not  navigate,  viz.  the  Ibenga  (Grenfell's  Botabo) 
and  Lobay  on  the  right  bank  and  the  Nghiri  on  the  left.  The  latter 
is  a  small  river  taking  its  rise  in  a  swamp  lying  to  the  north-west  of 
Bangala,  and  flows  across  the  narrow  tongue  of  land  between  the  Mobsmgi 
and  the  Congo.  This  swamp  is  ideiktical  with  the  Nghiri  Lake  discovered 
by  Lieutenant  Coquilhat  in  1885.  In  the  rainy  season  it  is  connected 
with  the  Congo  by  numerous  small  watercourses. 

Geography  in  Eussia. — It  has  been  decided  to  institute  chairs  of 
geography  at  the  Russian  UniversitieB,  One  will  be  established  at 
St.  Petersburg  University  in  the  autumn  of  the  present  year* 


GEOGRAPHICAL  KOTESL 


4il 


Tha  OliMate  of  Europe  as  regards  the  duration  of  a  certain  mean 
temperature  m  different  areaa-— An  instructiv©  article  on  this  eubject, 
accompaoied  with  maps  and  tables,  is  coDtributed  by  Herr  Alex.  Snpan 
to  tke  current  number  of  Petermann's  *  Mitteilungen.*  Tho  object  is 
to  flbow  the  length  of  time  (the  number  of  months)  a  mean  temperaturet 
low,  temperate,  or  high,  pi^vaila  in  a  Enropean  area,  and  to  mark  off  on 
maps  the  areas  in  which  the  temperature  endures,  the  number  of 
months  being  expressed  by  colours.  It  is  manifest  that  many  gco- 
gi^phical  and  biological  considerations  depend  on  such  general  facts  of 
climate  as  Herr  Supan  is  endeavouTing  to  work  out.  The  diBtributioa 
of  the  fauna  and  flora  of  a  region^  for  example^  must  depend  on  the 
persistence  of  a  certain  mean  temperature  for  some  part  of  the  year» 
Supan  divides  temperatnreB  into  throe  classes:  (1)  32"^  F,  (0^  Cent) 
and  under,  which  he  calls  the  "Prost  Period 'Tj  (2)  51°  and  over 
(10''  to  20'^  Cent),  the  **  Warm  Period*';  (3)  and  68*"  and  over,  or  the 
"Hot  Period.*^  The  duration  of  these  temperatures  he  has  noted  at 
471  diSerent  stations  in  Europe  and  the  countrias  round  tho  ^lediter- 
ranean.  The  temperatures  have  not  been  reduced  to  the  sea^level.  The 
resultfi,  which  he  has  represented  cartographically  in  a  very  striking 
manner,  may  be  briefly  summarised  as  follows: — The  lines  of 
equal  duration  of  the  **  Frost  Period "  run  similarly  to  the  winter 
isothermal  lines,  changing  from  a  southorly  direction  in  tho  west 
of  Europe  to  a  sontb-easterly  and  then  east-south-easterly  in  the  east  of 
Europe.  As  regards  the  **Warm  Period,"  it  is  only  on  the  Atlantic 
side  of  Europe  that  tho  lines  of  equal  duration  run  distinctly  south-east ; 
elsewhere  on  the  Continent  they  approximate  very  nearly  to  the  parallels 
of  latitude,  while  for  the  *'Hot  Period"  they  show  a  north-easterly 
direction.  Thus,  in  all  three  maps  the  contrast  between  the  oceanic 
west  and  the  continental  east  comes  out  very  sharply.  The  climate  of 
Norway,  which  is  generally  spoken  of  as  exceptionally  warm,  is  in  tho 
hill  region  very  cold.  A  glance  at  Maps  1  and  2  explains  why  the 
Norwegian  highland  was  in  the  glacial  epoch  the  birthplace  of  North 
European  land  ice ;  the  reason  is  not  to  be  found  in  the  extraordinarily 
low  temperatures,  but  in  the  duration  of  tho  cold  and  warm  periods* 
In  all  districts,  says  the  writer^  where  a  coast  range  of  mountains  inter- 
poses between  the  interior  and  the  eea,  or  where  the  hills  rise  abruptly 
from  the  sea,  the  lines  of  equal  duration  press  closely  together,  notably 
in  Norway  and  the  Alps*  He  emphasises  the  importance,  in  considering 
the  climate  of  Europe,  of  such  regions  of  depression  as  the  valleys  of  the 
Ehine  and  Rhone,  the  low-lying  plains  of  Hungary,  and  the  country  of 
Poland.  As  r^ards  the  climate  of  the  interior  of  the  Balkan  Penin- 
sula, the  data  are  very  meagre,  but  the  observations  of  the  Austrian 
stations  permit  of  an  interesting  comparison  being  made  between  Bosnia 
on  the  one  side  and   the   Dalmatian  coast  territory  and  basin  of  the 


442 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


A  careful  examination  of  Herr  Supan'e  tables 
valuable  light   on   the  phyaioal  geography  of 


Danube  on  the  other, 
will  doubtless  throw 
Europe. 

Desert  of  Gobi.— The  energetic  traveller  M.  G.  N.  Potanin  relumed 
to  St.  Petersburg  in  the  spring,  thus  bringing  to  a  termination  his 
work  of  three  years'  exploration  in  Mongolia.  M,  Potanin,  in  company 
with  his  wife,  M.  Skassi,  topographer,  and  M*  Beresowski,  left  Peking 
in  the  snmnier  of  1884.  Crossing  the  province  of  Knku-khoto,  the 
party  proceeded  to  Kan-sa,  which  was  in  the  first  instance  the  chief 
field  of  operations.  The  winter  (1884-5)  was  passed  at  the  town  of 
San-chuan  on  the  road  from  Lan-chau  to  Sining.  The  following 
enmmer  was  occupied  with  extensive  excursions  to  the  south  into  the 
territories  bordering  on  Kuku-nor.  After  wintering  in  the  convent  at 
Hni-bui,  Mp  Potanin  travelled  in  the  snmnier  of  1886  to  the  province  of 
Se-chnen,  whence  at  the  end  of  the  year  he  made  his  way  across  the 
Desert  of  Gobi  to  Kiakhta  and  Irkntsk.  The  immense  and  varied 
collections  brought  home  by  him  include  more  than  1500  botanical 
specimens  and  15,000  insects,  together  with  numerous  photographs  and 
ethnographical  objects.  The  topographical  surveys  of  M.  Skassi  are 
spoken  very  highly  of.  He  has  determined  by  astronomical  observa- 
tions the  position  of  more  than  sixty  different  points,  and  has  sur- 
veyed 4000  miles  of  country.  M.  Bercsowski  will  remain  for  another 
year  in  China.  M;  Potanin  has  reported  the  details  of  his  journey 
across  the  desert  of  Gobi  in  a  letter  to  the  Imperial  Geographical 
Society  of  Irkutsk,  Leaving  Goltai  on  27th  June,  1886,  he  followed 
the  course  of  the  river  Ezsin,  which  flows  across  the  desert  of  Gobi,  and 
in  summer  possesses  a  considerable  volume  of  water.  For  some 
distance  the  river  is  lined  on  both  sides  with  chains  of  low  hills  of  chalk 
and  sandstone  formation,  which  aro  covered  with  moving  sand.  In  its 
lower  course  the  Ezsin  divides  into  two  arms,  the  eastern  one  forming 
the  half  dried-np  lake  of  Sugu-nor,  while  the  western  branch  flows  into 
the  great  salt  lake  Gasbun-nor,  situated  in  a  veritable  desert  where  for 
Ofty  miles  neither  water  nor  grass  is  to  be  found*  M.  Potanin  travelled 
round  the  west  shore  of  this  lake,  and  then  crossed  to  the  north  the 
eaatem  spurs  of  the  Altai  Mountains,  which  here  run  from  west  to  east 
in  four  parallel  chains,  between  which  extend  broad  valleys  containing 
rivers  after  heavy  rains.  In  the  most  northerly  range  is  the  snow- peak 
of  Ichi-Bogdo.  From  the  latter  point  the  party  journeyed  to  Lake 
Orok-nor,  and  proceeding  up  the  valley  of  the  Tui,  past  Changai,  reached 
the  Pass  of  Kuljussai.  Then  travelling  down-stream  they  found  them* 
selves  at  length  in  the  vicinity  of  Lake  Ugei-nor,  near  which  the  great 
rout©  from  Urga  to  tJlia*ssutai  passes.  Between  the  Ezsin  and  Lake 
Ugei-nor  four  important  caravan  routes  wore  crossed,  M.  Potanin 
reached  Kiakhta  on  the  11th  October, 


GECH3EAPHICAL  NOTES. 


«A8 


¥ew  Proviiicea  in  Clule. — By  an  ordioanco  of  March  12th,  1887, 
two  new  provinces  have  hoen  created  in  Chile,  Malleco  and  Cautin, 
thereby  bringing  what  remains  of  Arancania  into  administrative  relation 
with  the  rest  of  the  country.  The  province  of  Malleco  has  for  its  chief 
town  Angol,  and  is  divided  into  three  departments,  Angol,  CoUipulli, 
and  Traignen ;  Temnco  is  the  chief  town  of  the  province  of  Cautini 
whioh  is  divided  into  the  two  departments  of  Temuco  and  Imperial. 
The  towns  which  give  the  names  to  the  departments  and  %vhich  have 
from  3000  to  4000  and  even  more  inhabitants,  will  not  be  found  in  the 
last  official  map  by  Pissis^  issued  in  1886.  Traiguen  lies  on  the  river  of 
that  name,  which  runs  into  tbe  Kio  Lnmoco,  a  northern  tributary  of  the 
Rio  Can  tin  or  Imperial ;  Go31ipuIli  is  on  the  river  Malleco,  which  joinB 
the  Regue  below  Angol,  and  so  forms  the  Rio  Yergara.  Temuoo 
and  Imperial  are  both  on  the  river  Cautin,  Imperial  being  at  the  junction 
of  the  Lumaco  with  that  river,  and  Temnco  about  22  miles  higher 
up*  These  places  will  soon  all  be  connected  with  the  rest  of  Chile 
hy  rail, 

Antarctic  Exploration. — Referring  to  our  note  in  the  May  number  of 
the  '  Proceed  logs;  p.  300,  on  the  movement  in  Australia  in  favour  of  an 
Antai-ctic  expedition,  we  are  now  able  to  state  that  still  further  pro- 
gress has  been  made.  The  Antarctio  Committee  appointed  by  the  Royal 
Society  of  Victoria,  and  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  of  Australia 
(Victoria  Branch),  have  recommended  to  the  Premier  of  the  Colony  the 
propriety  of  stimulating  Antarctio  research  by  the  offer  of  bonnees. 
They  advise  that  a  sum  of  10,000^.  be  placed  upon  the  estimates  to  provide 
for  the  amount  of  the  bonusesj  and  for  the  expcDse  of  the  equipment  of 
the  staff.  They  advise  the  Government  to  invite  tenders  from  shipovraers 
willing  to  perform  the  services  required,  the  tenderers  having  to  provide 
two  fortified  ships,  each  not  loss  than  175  tons  register  and  60  horse- 
power nominaL  There  must  be  provided,  free  of  charge,  cabin  accommo- 
dation in  each  ship  for  two  gentlemen  who  will  sail  as  the  scientific  staff, 
and  who  must  be  afforded  every  facility  for  noting  natural  phenomena, 
llie  chartered  shipa  will  have  a  special  bonus  (from  800?.  to  1000^. )  upon 
their  entering  at  the  Custom  House  a  cargo  of  100  tone  of  oil,  the  produce  of 
fish  caught  south  of  60^  8.  The  special  services  expected  are  as  follows : — 
A  flying  survey  of  any  coast-lines  lying  within  the  Antarctio  circle,  and 
not  now  laid  down  upon  the  Admiralty  charts  ;  the  discovery  of  new 
waterways  leading  towards  the  South  Pole,  and  of  harbours  suitable  for 
wintering  in,  and  the  discoveiy  of  commercial  products.  Opportunities 
will  have  to  be  afforded  to  the  scientifiG  staff  to  add  to  our  knowledge  of 
the  meteorology,  oceanography,  terrestrial  magnetism,  natural  history, 
and  geology  of  the  region.  The  masters  of  the  ships  must  specify  the 
hoDUB  they  demand  for  passing  70^  S.  and  for  each  degree  beyond  70^ ; 
and  also  for  every  occasion  in  which  they  succeed  in  eBtabli(?hing  on 
shore  a  temporary  observing  camp.      These  arc  the  principal  points  in 


Ui 


COBRESPONDENCEL 


the  new  8€beme  of  Antarctic  exploration,  and  we  are  glad  to  know 
that  the  Yiotorian  Pi-eniior  ie  prepared  to  move  for  a  Government  grant 
provided  the  other  colonies  oon tribute,  which  no  doubt  they  will  do.- — 
While  on  the  Bubject  of  Antarotio  exploration,  we  may  state  that  we  are 
informed  by  Baron  Nordenskiold  that  the  rninonra  ae  to  his  loading  an 
Antarctic  expedition  are  entirely  premature.  He  has  as  mnch  work  on 
hand  at  home  as  will  keep  him  going  till  1889,  and  it  is  extremely 
doubtful  if  even  then  he  would  undertake  such  an  expedition  were  the 
conditions  favourable. 


CORBESPONDENCK 


On  the  Position  of  Mount  St  EliaSy  and  the  Schwaiha  Expedition 

to  Alaska, 

DSPARTMENT  OW  THB  IniSBIOB,  VM,   GeOLOOICAL  BuIEVET, 

Washington  D.  C. 

Mojf  25, 1887. 

I  hnyo  read  with  interest  the  oDtertainiTig  article  of  Lieut  Seton-Karr  in  the  last 
number  of  the  *  Proceedings '  of  your  Society.  A  few  observations  tbereon  may 
perbapa  be  permitted.  hlauL  Seton-Karr  ohBervea  (p.  272)  in  effect  that  if  the 
ahore-line  be  correctly  mapped,  the  ixjsition  of  Mount  St.  Blias  is,  &c.  It  would  be 
too  much  to  expect  of  gentletneQ  who  explore  in  flearch  of  sport  and  manly  exercise 
such  as  mountain-climbing,  that  they  should  be  conversant  with  all  the  literature 
of  the  subject,  A  few  references  may,  however^  be  ui<iBful  in  supplementiug  lor 
students  of  geography  the  observations  above  referred  to. 

The  shore-line  of  the  Alaakan  coast  betwean  Yakutat  and  Prince  William 
Sound  is  not,  and  never  has  been  correctly  located.  The  posltiou  of  Mount  St,  Elias, 
however,  haa  been  well  determined  by  the  U.S.  Coast  Survey  expeditions  which  I 
Lad  the  honour  to  command  in  1874  and  1880,  Mr,  Marcus  Baker,  ivhoae  qualiticd- 
tioDa  will  not  be  doubted  by  any  one  acquainted  with  him,  was  on  both  occasions 
astronomer  to  the  party,  and  observed  a  at^riea  of  vertical  augles  on  Mount  St.  Eliaa 
in  1874.  The  tri angulation,  however,  and  other  vertical  angles  were  observed  by 
myself  in  person,  not  by  my  valued  friend  aud  assistant,  as  erroneously  stated  in 
Elliot t*8  late  compilation  on  AlaBk^^,  Our  party  waa  furnished  with  a  large  number 
of  chronometers  and  other  instruments  of  precision,  and  the  results  in  full,  togcthtr 
with  the  data  and  essential  jmrta  of  tlio  computation,  were  published  in  the  U.S. 
Coast  Survey  Report  for  1875,  A  separate  copy  of  the  article  waa  fumisbed  to  y^»ur 
Society  in  advance  of  the  volume.  From  this  it  will  be  seen  that  the  position  ot 
Monnt  St.  Elias  is  not  a  matter  of  controversy,  within  narrow  limits,  at  most  not  to 
exceed  two  or  three  miles,  and  in  all  (trobability  much  less  than  one  mile,  Additioual 
information  galnetl  in  1680  will  he  found  in  the '  American  Journal  of  Science  *  (Feb. 
1661,  pp,  104-111,)  The  Malcspina  glacier,  aiuce  named  for  Agj^z  by  Schwatka, 
is  there  referred  to  at  some  IcofjtlL  The  failure  of  Schwatka's  name  for  it  is  the 
less  to  be  regretted  from  the  fact  that  there  ia  already  in  South-eajiteru  Alaska  a 


OOBRESFONDENCE.  446 

truly  magnificent  glacier  named  after  Agassiz  by  the  Snpenntendent  of  the  U.S. 
Coast  Survey. 

I  am  in  a  position  to  state  without  reserve  that  the  map  furnished  to  the  New 
York  Times  by  Schwatka,  from  the  neglect  to  take  existing  knowledge  into  account, 
has  Mount  St  Elias  placed  about  30  miles  out  of  its  true  position,  and  that  any 
hypotheses  similarly  based  upon  the  Tebienkoff  shore-lines  are  necessarily  more  or 
less  erroneous.  As  the  distance  from  the  shore  at  Icy  Bay  to  the  peak  of  St  Elias 
was  not  measured  with  any  instrument  of  precision  by  the  Schwatka  party,  the 
distance  remains  uncertain,  and  as  the  boundary  is  a  line  parallel  to  the  windhigs  of 
the  coast,  and  ten  marine  leagues  therefrom,  the  nationality  of  the  apex  is  yet 
uncertain.  I  am  sure  that  if  some  of  your  Alpine  climbers  should  be  the  first  to 
tread  its  virgin  snow,  and  decide  the  point  in  &vour  of  the  mother  coxmisrj^ 
American  geographers  will  not  grudge  the  victory. 

As  the  Schwatka  expedition  was  due  to  American  liberality  and  enterprise  I 
may  venture  to  say  that  it  is  my  opinion  that  if  its  leader  had  informed  himself  of 
what  was  already  known  in  regard  to  the  surroundings  of  the  mountain,  he  would 
hardly  have  attacked  the  problem  from  the  direction  of  Icy  Bay.  Any  attempt  from 
there  is  foredoomed  to  failure.  The  sketch  of  St.  Elias  in  my  report  on  our  work 
there  is  enough  to  decide  this  at  a  glance,  when  it  is  remembered  that  the  precipitous 
face  there  exhibited  is  turned  toward  Icy  Bay.  An  attempt  to  climb  the  mountain 
with  the  slightest  hope  of  success  must  be  made  from  behind  or  along  the  range. 
My  own  observations  would  indicate  a  point  on  the  north-west  shore  of  Takutat  Bay 
beyond  the  limits  of  the  Malespina  glacier  and  its  torrents.  There  will  be  a  rugged 
region  of  at  least  50  miles  to  traverse,  with  the  snow-line  (apart  from  glaciers) 
between  2500  and  5000  feet  above  the  sea,  according  to  the  exposure  of  the 
slope.  For  clear  weather.  May  or  early  June  is  the  only  time.  The  party  should 
be  sufficient  unto  itself,  and  put  no  dependence  on  Indians.  It  is  possible  that  a 
couple  of  mules,  used  to  mountain  travel,  might  be  of  use  in  the  early  part  of  the 
trip.  The  climb  is  no  child's  plav,  and  will  require  thorough  training  and  equipment 
to  be  practicable  at  all  in  the  doubtful  event  that  the  natural  obstacles  are  not 
insuperable. 

I  am,  &C., 

WiL  H.  Dall.    • 
The  Secretary  R.G.S. 


(     44G    ) 


THE  ANNIVEESAET  MEETING,  May  23bd,  1887- 

General  R.  Strachey,  Vice-PresideBti  in  the  Chair. 

Elections, — SiunH  Charles  Francis  Curnherland,  Esq,;  Ueu.  Alfred  Flower; 
Bev,  Ernest  Awdry  Gray/  Eerhert  Giullaume,  Esq, ;  Alexatider  MoUmann,  Esq, 

The  proceedings  commeDoed  by  the  reading  of  the  Rules  which  govern  the  pro- 
ceeding-a  at  Anniversary  Meetiags  of  tbe  Society. 

The  Chaibmah  then  appointed  Sir  lUwsoN  Raw  son  and  Mr.  Dyabon  as 
Scnitineers  of  the  ballot  about  to  take  place. 

Mr,  DouoLAB  W.  Freshfield  (Secretary)  read  the  Annua!  Report  of  the 
Council,  as  followB  ;— 

REPORT  OF  THE  COUNCIL. 

The  Council  have  the  pleasure  of  submitting  to  the  Fellows  the  following  Report 
on  the  financiiil  and  general  cx)adition  of  the  Society : — 

Members. — The  number  of  Fellows  elected  during  the  year  (ending  April  30th^ 
1887)  was  206,  besides  three  Honorary  Corresponding  Members*  In  tbe  previous 
year,  1885-86,  the  total  elections  amountetl  to  173,  and  in  1884-85  the  number  was 
190,  Our  losses  have  been,  by  death  T6  (besides  5  Honorary  Corresponding  Mem- 
bers), by  resignation  52,  and  by  removal  on  account  of  arrears  of  subscription  51 ; 
making  the  net  increase  for  the  year  25.  In  the  year  1885--86  there  was  an  increase 
of  16 ;  in  1884-85  an  increase  of  13*  The  total  number  of  Fellows  on  the  list 
(exclusive  of  Honorary  Members)  on  the  lat  May  was  3392. 

Finance, — As  will  be  seen  by  the  annexed  Balance  Sheet,  the  total  net  income 
for  the  financial  year  ending  31st  December,  1886  (i.e.  exclusive  of  balance  in  hand 
and  the  donation  from  Miss  Gill),  was  7966L  9s.,  of  which  5859L  consisted  of  en- 
trance fees  and  subscriptions  of  Fellowi,  In  the  previous  year,  1885,  the  total  net 
income  was  7740^.  11 «.  5c?.,  and  the  amount  of  aubscriptiona,  &c.,  5625^*;  in  1884 
the  two  totals  were  8464;*  lis.  6Sii.,  and  6246?.  18«.  id,  respectively. 

The  net  expenditure  for  the  past  year  (i,e^  exclusive  of  balance  in  hand  and  the 
investment  of  the  Gill  Memorial)  was  7767L  18s.  Old,  The  net  eipenditure  in 
1885  was  80531. 12s.  4H.;  in  1884, 9266?.  Os*  6d, 

The  Finance  Committee  of  the  Council  have  held,  as  usual,  Monthly  Meetings 
duriog  the  year,  supervising  the  accounts  of  the  Society.  The  Annual  Audit  was 
held  on  the  6t!i  April  last,  the  Auditors  being,  on  behalf  of  the  Council,  Sir  Henry 
Barkly  and  S.  W.  Silver,  Esq.,  and  on  behalf  of  the  Fellows  at  large,  E.  0.  Tudor, 
Esq.,  and  J.  Dimcan  Thomson,  Esq.  The  cordial  thanks  of  the  Couacil  and 
Fellows  are  due  to  these  gentlemen  for  having  freely  devoted  their  valuable  time  to 
this  important  task.  At  the  end  of  their  labours  the  Auditors  drew  up  the  following 
Report  to  the  Council : — 

Auditors*  B^iorL—**  The  Auditors  appointed  for  the  examination  of  the  Accounts 
of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  for  the  year  ended  Slst  December,1886,  beg  to  report 
that  they  have  examined  the  Balance  Sheet  submitted,  and  have  compared  it  with 
the  Cixah  Book,  Bankers'  Book,  Petty  Cash  Book,  and  other  Account  Books  of  the 
Society,  and  have  found  the  same  to  he  correctly  stated  and  aufSciently  vouched* 
They  consider  the  Books  to  have  been  kept  in  a  manner  highly  creditable  to  the 
Accountant. 

"The  Investments  have  been  augmented  during  the  year  by  a  donation  of 


THE  ANNIVERSART  MEETING. 


447 


lOOOZ.  from  Miss  QUI  in  memory  of  her  late  brother,  Captain  Qill,  B.S.,  and  now 

•consist  of  the  undermentioned  securities :— > 

£.  8.  d. 

North-Eastem  Railway  4  per  Cent.  Debenture  Stock  1000  0  0 

Oreat  Indian  Peninsula  Railway  5  per  Cent.  Stock  ..  4000  0  0 
Great  Western  Railway  4t  per  Cent.  Stock  (Davis 

Bequest) 1800  0  0 

London  and  North- Western  Railway  4  per  Cent.  De- 
benture Stock  (Murchison  Bequest)      1000  0  0 

€aledonian  Railway  4  per  Cent  Preference  Stock     ..  2000  0  0 

Norwegian  4  per  Cent.  Bonds 1000  0  0 

New  South  Wales  3|  per  Cent  Stock  (Gill  Memorial)  1028  0  0 

India  Stock  1000  0  0. 

India  Si  per  Cent  Debentures 1000  0  0 

Consols 3669  2  2 

Consols  (Peek  Fund) 1000  0  0 

Oonsols  (Back  Bequest)      561  0  8 

Consols  (Trevelyan  Bequest)      510  4  0 

Making  a  Total  of £19,568    6  10 

''  The  Balance  Sheet  may  be  regarded  also  in  other  respects  as  satisfactory,  since 
the  ordinary  Receipts  of  the  year  exceed  those  of  1885  by  227(,,  the  Subscriptions 
showing  an  increase  of  501^.,  and  the  Sale  of  Publications  with  Advertisements,  &c., 
of82;. 

**  The  ordinary  disbursement,  on  the  other  hand, — ^notwithstanding  the  cost  of 
publications  was  377?.  more — were  reduced  by  286?.,  in  consequence  of  the  saving 
of  expenditure  on  expeditions,  which  amounted  to  no  less  than  6232.  As  a  result, 
instead  of  a  deficit  of  314?.  as  in  the  previous  year,  there  was  a  net  surplus  of  200?., 
as  will  be  clear  from  the  subjoined  comparative  statement : — 

^„„  Ordiiwry  ToUl  Ezcewof 

*"*"'  Beoefptt.  Expenditure.  Ezpenditnre. 

1885  7741  8055  314 

Bxoeas  of  Berenue. 

1886  7968  7768  200 

the  balance  at  the  Bankers,  and  cash  in  hand,  which  stood  at  325?.  on  the  Slst 
December,  1885,  having  been  thus  augmented  on  the  3l8t  December,  1886,  to 
626?. 

'*  Should  the  revenue  of  the  present  year  continue  to  improve  in  the  same  ratio, 
and  the  cost  of  the  Society's  publications  not  exceed  the  average,  it  may  prove 
practicable  to  provide  the  1000?.  which  the  Royal  G^eographical  Society  has  engaged 
•to  contribute  for  exploration  purposes  in  connection  with  the  Emin  Bey  Relief  Expedi- 
tion which  has  started  under  the  command  of  Mr.  H.  M.  Stanley,  without  having 
recourse  to  a  sale  of  stock. 

"  The  anears  of  subscriptions,  valued  last  year  at  465?.,  have  decreased  to  440?. 
'^  The  investments  and  assets  of  the  Society,  on  31st  December,  1886,  show  an 
increase  during  the  year  from  39,330?.  49.  Id,  to  40,533?.  15«.  6i(?. 

(Signed)  Henrt  Babklt, 

S.  W.  Silver,      ,   ,   ^. 
E.O.  Tudor,       }^«^^^*- 
"  6th  April,  1887.'*  J.  D.  Thomson, 

No.  Vn.— July  1887.]  2  k 


) 


4i8 


THE  ANNIVERSART  MEETING. 


The  followiDg  BalaDCG  Sheet  and  Statement,  ishowlng  the  Boc^ipta  and  Expecdi^ 
ture  of  tlie  Society  from  the  year  1848  up  to  the  [jresenl  date,  aro  annexed  to  the 
Keport  of  the  Auditors  :— 


Mactipi^ 


BALANCE  SHEET  FOR  THE  YEAB  188G.  Expmditure, 


IBAti.                                     t      $,  d.\     X      f.    dj 

ISHS. 

£ 

I.   d. 

£    f.    d. 

Bafancs      la      B&nk«T>'  t 
hj*rjda31«t  Dpc,  iSSft..  J 

320    8    ft 

/Totiw  i — 

Taitei  And  lofurancfi. . 

114 

I    0 

Do,    Acooimtonl'a    do. 

4    ft    4 

B^palra  And  Fumfstiltig 

124 

13    T 

324  17    3 

Co^s,  Om  Mid  Water 
Mlacellmii^oiiii     « .     * . 

04     4  1         n 

SiOmTifUiom:— 

8 

3    0 

For  the  mureat  yev . . 

aa&T    0   D 

312  10    T 

PAld  inadTuuae  ..     .. 

set   0  0 

O#0e;  — 

Arrears..     .*     .*     .. 

37&     0     0 

SalJirift* 

1134 

6    4 

47S7    0     0 

SlAtioncry  and  Fiintinf 

7n 

1     1 

Entrance  Fret        . .     . . 

. . 

6^3    0    0 

MUcctUaeoW     . .     . . 

137 

12    fi 

« *       •  • 

MO    0    0 

1544  14  10 

Paymmtt  nutde  In  •nor 

. . 

44    6     3 

Library  i"^ 

*.       ■  > 

&00     0     0  j 

S&1ar(«a  and  0  ratut  ilea 

300 

0    0 

Hoyfal  Frrmium     .  *     . . 

* . 

62  10     5 

Furdiii«e  of  &x»fes    . . 

130 

i  11 

Hent  of  Shop  ii^d  VaulU 

. . 

134  u    a 

BIndbiK        

MlaoeLkneouA     ..     ., 

47 

14    4 

Publicatitmt,  B»lii  of    .. 

351    t    « 

10 

1    H 

Ad^UietnenU  In  'Pn>> 
oedlogB'       ..     ..     ..J 

508    4    1| 

189  1«    0 

Map-EMmi-^ 

IK).       Id   £xhlbltltia( 

44     fi     0 

S«tUric8  «nd  Gmtultles 

a4& 

0    0 

PuTCtuiM  of   Map!l 

34 

11     1 

fiSS    2     4 

ImttramentH    and  Ec- 1 

iwiw,.     i 

MbcelljjieoaB    . .     . . 

Loan  of  IHoffmrnt  ^  *     ». 
/'«yiM<w(t    for    Sdenttflci 
InatmcttoD  . .     .  *     * ,  j 
Donatiofi  from  Miss  GIU 

..       .. 

10  10     0 
Ifi  IS     0 

44 
4ft 

10    6 

8    2 

€70    »    ft 

Jftjp-Dmutnp-room  :— 

in  mfmary  of  li«r  iRtc 

1000     0     0 

SfcUrtea        

370 

0    0 

broiLir,  Ctopt.  W.  GIU. 

•  •       >* 

DmwlDBMkteiiaJi    .. 

12 

6  10 

l!.£.          *.       i.       ..      .. 

3A3    0  10 
243  16     8 

i(%w<m^t..     , 

,, 

— 

IHvidevdtz 

Mtdah  and  oUier  ftfi'arda 

,, 

•  ' 

174  19     4 

North'Enjt*™  Hallway  1 

SciendJUi         i'urpaa 

i  per  Cent  Debenmre  i 

39  13    4 

Oramt  ,— 

Stock..     ..      1000^  ( 

Sclentiric  Inttnicllon . . 

31 

5     0 

Great  JndtAD  Penln-Hula  l 

KxpeoM^  Mil  iiCKrotiiit  of  1 
Geogmpbical    Exhl-  } 

lUUway  5  pet  lent.  J 

232  12  11 

572 

12  IH 

Stock        . .      40001.  j 

Wikin       * i 

Gre4l  Western  RjiJIway  ' 
4i   per   OnL   Stock  - 

L<mdcm     *od     NortL- 

Paynient  on  Account  of  i 
Map  of  W.  Afriu..  } 

3^ 

0    0 

711  19    0 

Puhl{caii!fmt  :— 

439  17  Hi 

Weatern       Hallway 

' 

Piiiitlnf  '  Proreedlngi' 

1192 

4    0 

4  per  Cent.   Deben- 

as 13    4 

2taps  and  Uliutrwduns 

S34  12    a 

ture  Stock  [  91  Qfchl- 
eon  Ri quest]      lom. , 

Pottase       of      *  l*n>- 1 
cero  urge ' : 

318 

3     1 

Cftledufiijui       RjBdlway 

Paympnra      to      Con-  1 

4  per  Cent.  Preference 

TT    6    8 

tribuiore,     Trftiwla-  n 

204 

0     0 

Siock      ..     aooot; 

tlona,  *c. . .     . .     . .    1 

BoDdM        ,.     looof,  ' 

38  13    4 

Snppiemrnury  Papers 

199 

3     1 

l<kluciUunal  lirpt^na.. 

n 

17     7 

New  South  WaIi>0  3i  ^ 

Ed^ioTof  PtibllcaUtKOfl 

200 

0    0 

per  Cent.  Slock  [Gill   » 
Memorl*!]        loaAl.  ^ 

It     »  11 

Mboelloneoua     . ,     » . 

3i 

18    n 

30«4  11  n 

India  St/>rk    . .     lOOOf. 

38  la    4 

Paynutitiln  error  returned 

, , 

20    0    0 

India  :if  jwr  Cent,  De-  I 
beniurt-s  ..      lOOOlcJ 

33  It   a 

FwthaM  of  102&L  J^ew  . 

C^nt.  mock  (GUI  Me-L 

1000    0    0 

OdiwqIs    3e69t.  3«.  3d, 

104     A     0 

"• 

*  * 

„      [P«k      FuikI)  J 
lOQOl.  f 
„      [Bftck  Beqiint] 

29     0     0 
16     6     S 

morlal) J 

ExpenseH    on    account  .  i 
EtMt  A£r.can  Kxpe- 

.. 

191  17     0 

„      f  Trcvelyia  Be- 
quMt]    &l(9l.  4t.  Od.  : 

14  15  10 

dlUun       ..     ..     ..    1 

ffeUtUite      In      Bankerf' 

&07 

19     3 

IntCTMt  on   lOOtH.  de- 

liaiidB  3iai  I>c  188e.« 

pofilttKl  from  April  l!i   \ 

8    1     7 

Duw    AoGOOialAOt'A  do. 

17 

9     5* 

to  X&vemlier  fi       .. .  , 

424    8     H 

t«4     7     7 

£ 

£ 

93^3    4     ft 

9293    4    9 

REGINALD  T.  00CK6» 
Jr«a«ur«r. 


Audittd  and/ound  torrett,  ^th  qf  Aprils  1687, 
HENRY  BARKLY.l 
S.  W.  SILVER,  . 

J.  IK  THOMSON,     H 
E.  0.  TUDOK.         J 


Uudttor^, 


^                                             THE  AKNIVERSARY  MEETING. 

449         H 

^^1               Statement  ek>wing  tbo  BECEiFra  and  Exfenjoiture  of  the  Society  from  the  Yt^ir                ^^| 

^H                                                              ISiS  to  tlio  3lBt  Dec,  1B86. 

^H 

Yttr. 

CMb  Recdpti 

Gub  AmouDts 

Deducting                   ^^H 
Amouota  Lovfatfil              ^^^H 

witbLQ  ibe  Year. 

InycBtcd  )j}  FondA. 

In  Fnrxlei;  actual               ^^^| 

ExpendUurc.                  ^^H 

£    i.    d. 

£    *.    d. 

t,                             ^^1 

^H               ^loelodes  TroMQiy  GraAt  of  looot. 

28441 

698  ]Q    5 

7S5     6     1                      ^^H 

^H                     tor  tlbB  £ut  AfrlcAQ  E^iRtKt^oii. 

1849 

»T8    3     0 

1,098           6                     ^^M 

^H                "Inclndea  Treimiry  Grant  of  s&OOf. 
^H                      for  th«  East  Afrlcaa  ExpecIltioD, 

1850 
1851       1 
lBft3 

1,036  10     Ci 
1,0^6  11     8 
1.320    3     4 

906  14     7                     ^^B 
995          1                    ^^H 

^H                     OUvefm,  IfiO«l.  iTf.  Id. 

IRW 

1,91?    3    e 

1»615          0                   ^^H 

18M 

a.5«5     7     8 

3,191  19    3                   ^^H 

^H               «!Dclaili*i  Legacy  of  Mr.  Alfred  Dtavla, 

ie&5 

18fi« 

3,5M     T    0 
'3,3ta    5    I 

533  10*  0 

3,636    3     1                     ^^M 

185T 

3.143  13     4 

379    0    0 

3.469  19     9                    ^^M 

^H               'iDclmks   Ugtcj  of  Sir   Roderlek 

1858 

3.089  16     1 

**         *  > 

3,044  13     6                    ^^M 

^^B                   Uorobkcii.  loool. 

1859 

3.411  U     8 

950     0     0 

3,433     3     9                    ^^M 

^^1                "iQclndcfl  Mr.  James  Toting'^  Qimnt 
^^1                    for  CoDgp  Expcdl lion,  aooQl. 

I8ft0 
I8fil 
18«1 

H,449  13     1 
4.TB3  13    9 
4.M9    T     9 

46S  17     5 
1,358     3    « 
1,3*0    7    « 

3                         ^^H 

4                    ^^H 

3.095  19     4                     ^^H 

^H                *lDclDd«ti  1009  L  14«.  ed.  Bale  of  Ez- 

1863 

5*355    9    3 

1»837  10    0 

3,656    4     0                    ^^H 

^H                       cbeqaer  Bills, 

lftfi4 

4.97T    8    i 

1,196     5     0 

S,64T     1  10                    ^^M 

^H               >Inclii(kfl  Mr.  JuDCA  Young's  Qnuit 
^H                   for  tbe  Oooco  Expedltloo*  10411. 

188S 
1866 
l8Af 

4.905    8     3 
5,085     8     a 
5,183    t  11 

1.041     5    0 
1.038  16    0 
1.929    0    < 

4.307                                ^^H 
4.053  IS     0                              ■ 
3,943  IT     4                               1 

1^68 

6,991     4     0 

1.851    3    9 

4,156  11  ID                                1 

^^B               "Iiuiludea    ?4rlkm«auur7   Grant  of 

1869 

*5,869  ll»    0 

3.131     6    0 

4.546    0     8                               I 

^^1                     SOOOk  io  CftmeroD  LjcptditJon. 

IBIO 

•8,043     6     1 

3.8U3    5    0 

3,M45  10     6                               1 

^H              ^"lisdudM  DonaUon  of  fiOOl.  bj  Mr. 
^H                    CL  J.  Lttmbert. 

18T1 
1813 

*6,e3»     3     T 
•8,119     T     9 

1,000     0     0 
1.999    4     6 

3.T36    4     4                      J 

5,871  13     2                     ^^H 

lais 

'1,761  18  10 

3.016    1    a 

6,697  13     6                    ^^H 

^H             ^'iDdQdM    Legmcjr   of  Adminl   Sir 

18t4 

"5^53     5  10       1 

4D9     0     0 

7.^16     3     3                   ^^M 

^H                     Qeorgu  Back,  6401. 

1B7S 

1,034  IB  10 

3.003     1     6 

5.683     4  10                     ^^M 

^^P              i^lBclaiIe«  Legacy  of  StrW.  C,  Tre- 
^^                      T^ljaji^  60OI. 

11S76 
I9t» 

>ll,ail  11     8 
i'»l,9S0     1  11 

3,638    3"o 

e.BlO  13     1                     ^^M 
8,940  17  11*                   ^^M 

18?  8 

"8.124  10     0 

3,000     0     0 

6.381     9    6                            ■ 

^■Iiicliidei  iao&£.  &t«  ad,  lale  of  Ex- 

lan 

^>S,0t9  14  10 

1.551  10  10 

6.99U  14     3                              ■ 

cbeqaer  Billa. 

1880 

8,&99  1«     4 

1,567     5     1 

8.454     1  l&t                          m 

''InclndcB  lOooZ.  Tcoelrcd  tmm  Mr. 
a  Leigh  Smltb. 

1881 
1B«1 
IBSa 

8,809  19     5 
^»S,94a  15    0 
i<^9,699     i     0 

1,001     6'*0 

8,363     5     et                  ^^H 

8.719  10     1                    ^^M 
8,634     3  11                    ^^H 

»  'Includei  B«H.  on  loan  from  BanJteia. 

1884 

1*8,954  11     U 

•  • 

9.»66     0     5                    ^^H 

i«I<icliid«a  msL  01,  lOd.,  flale  cf  IMia 
Ddjentorea. 

1886 
1M80 

'•8,738  13    3 
i<7,9t8    9    0 

1,000     0*0 

8.555    3  10|-                  ^^M 
18     Oi                  ^^H 

i^nctiiiks  DonaUon  of  lOOOl.  inm 

^^H 

MisGm. 

^H 

•  Ttila  «&m  lucludea  Lbe  BpeeLal  ParliuiieDUrj  Grant  truulerred  to  the  Ckmeroa 
February,  1871. 

t  Thlt  amonDi  incliidf!«  tli«  paymecit  of  two  muisa  of  fiOOL  eacb,  ooDtrlboted  to  tbo  A 

EbcpodltioD  Fund  Ld           ^^H 

JHcan  E^loratloQ            ^^H 

Fiisd  la  this  and  the  prevloiu  jenr. 

t  Thi0  ram  Lncludet  tlies  payment  of  U2h  9i.  to  tlie  Afrleau  Expkrattoa  Ftmd;  «li 

^^^^1 

BO  7141.  9t.  Id.,  tbo            ^^1 

fiimpajmeut  for  Quoierciti  EjEpedilkni  t\Liid. 

■ 

STATEMENT  OF  A  R8ETS— Slit  De 

cemher,  1886. 

F]re6liold  House,  Fittings^  and  Fornitiir^  estiiiiAted  (ex*l 

^^H 

cluMT©  of  Map  Collections:  and    Library    Insured  fori 
10,000?.) „      ..      ,.) 

20,000    0    0            ^H 
19,568    6  10            ^H 

Inveatmenia  (amouQts  of  Stock),  as  detailed  in  the  aboTei 
Report  of  the  Auclitors .,      ..      ..j' 

ArroaJS  due  on  December  31,  1S86,  £1103    0    0, 

^^H 

Eetinifttedat   .,      

440    0    0            ^H 

Bftliinfie  at  Bonk     .      ..      . .      - .               - .       

£507  19    , 

17     ^     h 

525    8    8)           ^H 

in  A GGonn tint's  hands ..      ..      ^.      .• 

|4                        XJja      A  a  \iTnni.riJ  1  i  WlMll  M   'B     1 ITI  iTJlirT      •*                 «■                  •■                  ■*                  ■«                 «f                  ■■                  w«               '>'              ^^ 

Total     ..      .. 

£40,538  15    Gi          ^^ 

PuWiaifiojis.— Tbe  moEthly  'Proceedings'  have  been    issued  t 

if'ith  regularity          ^^| 

thoughout  the  year ,  the  twelve  numbers  for  1866  fonning  a  voliime 

of  847  pages,         ^H 

^ 

^1 

450 


THE  ANNIVERSAET  MEETIKG. 


illustrated  hj  23  maps  and  7  pictorial  diagrama.  The  total  cost  of  the  edition  of 
5000  copies  (incluiling  318/.  2s,  Id,  for  free  delivery  to  Fellows  and  Institutions)  was 
i-i345/.  IHs,  3t/,  Froui  this  is  to  be  deducted  the  amount  of  585/.  2s.  GtL  received  from 
sale  itf  copies  to  the  public  and  from  advertisements.  One  part  of  the  *  Supple- 
mentary Papera  *  (Vol.  II.,  Part  J.)  was  also  issued  duriog  the  year;  the  total  cost 
of  which  was  19SL  Bs,  Sd. 

Scientific  Purposes  Qrant. — Duriog  the  past  year  ten  intending  travellers  have 
received  instmctioDs  from  Mr.  Coles  in  Practical  Astronomy  in  the  Society'a 
Observatory,  and  in  route-surveying  with  the  theodolite  and  plane  table,  in  the 
country.      The  total  number  of  hours  devoted  to  teaching  during  the  year  waa  161. 

Twenty-seven  lessons  in  Photography  to  four  iatending  tmvellers  have  been 
given  during  the  year. 

Inatrumeiita  to  the  value  of  115L  have  been  lent  during  the  past  year  to  the 
following  tmvellers  :--Mr.  A.  P.  Maudelay,  Gnateraala,  80?,  ;  MonT-  H.  M,  P.  de  la 
Marti nifere,  Marocco,  B5L 

The  silver  half-chronometer  watch  lent  to  Rev.  T.  J.  Comber  (Congo  Region)  in 
1881],  has  been  returned  broken^  and  after  being  repaired  was  again  lent  to  Mr.  A, 
P,  Mandslay. 

An  instalment  of  25?.  has  been  paid  on  account  of  the  Map  of  Western 
Equatorial  Africa  in  course  of  compilation  by  Mr,  E.  G.  Ravenstein. 

Qeograph%(^l  Education, — The  sum  of  572/.  12f.  Hid.  has  been  disbursed  during 
the  year  on  account  of  the  Exhibition  of  Educational  Appliances  held  in  the  winter 
of  1885-6 ;  and  ISi,  17s.  Id,^  the  cost  of  printing  the  volume  of  '*  Educational 
ileports." 

Map  Boom, — The  accessions  to  the  Map  Room  Gollection  duriDg  the  past  year 
comprise  1554  Maps  and  Charts  on  1947  sheets ;  17  Atlases,  containing  490  sheets 
of  Maps,  and  548  Photographs  and  Views,  Of  these,  44  Maps,  on  306  sheets, 
4  Atlases,  and  146  Photographs  (including  31  Magic  Lantern  Slides)  have  been 
purchased. 

Among  the  most  important  donations  to  the  Map  Room  Colleetion  are : — 748 
sheets  of  the  Ordnance  Survey  of  the  British  Isles  (presented  by  the  First  Com- 
missioner of  Public  Works,  through  the  Director-General  of  the  Ordnance  Survey)  j 
244  sheets  of  British  Admiralty  Charts  (The  Lords  Commissioners  of  tho  Admiralty, 
through  the  Hydrographer) ;  242  sheets  of  the  various  Indian  Government  Surveys 
(H,M.  Secretary  of  State  for  India);  21  French  Charts  (Service  Hydrographique  de 
la  Marine,  Paris) ;  18  United  States  Charts  (Commander  J.  R.  Bar  tie  tt,  u.s^n., 
Hydrographer  to  the  Buruau  of  Navigation,  Washington,  B.C.) ;  22  Maps  publiahed 
in  Petermann's  *  Geographisehe  Mitteilungen  *  (Herr  Justus  Perthes)  j  9  Maps 
published  by  Dietrich  Reimer  (the  Publisher);  6  Reduced  Ordnance  Maps  of 
Scotland,  and  1  Map  of  Ireland,  by  J.  Bartholomew  (the  Author) ;  39  Photographs 
of  the  natives  and  scenery  of  New  Guinea  (Capt.  C,  Bridge,  b.k.)  ;  138  Fhoto- 
s^jraphs  of  various  parts  of  Fmnce  and  Italy  (James  Jackson,  Esq.,  Paris);  192 
Photographa  of  tho  natives  and  scenery  of  Kashmir  and  the  N*W.  Frontier  of 
India  (Prof,  Thistleton  Dyer) ;  22  sheets  of  Norwegian  Government  Surveys  (Den 
Geographiske  Opmaaling  Kristiania) ;  4  sheets  of  the  Genemlstabens  Toj>ographiske 
Kaart  over  Danmark  (The  Danish  Minister  of  War) ;  12  sheets  (Part  XXIX.)  of 
Topograpbischer  Atlas  der  Schweiz  (Section  Topograph,  du  Bureau  d'fitat  Major 
Feddral  k  Berne)  ;  Facsimile  of  the  second  Borgian  Map,  by  Diego  Ribero,  Seville, 
1529  (Sir  A.  J.  Adderloy) ;  Surveys  of  Ancient  Babylon  (Treiawney  Saunders,  Esq.)  | 
Carte  G6>lugique  du  Turkestan  Russe  (Comity  G^ologique  H  St.  Petersbourg) : 
UbersichtS'Karte  der  Ethnographischen  Verhaltnbse  von  Asieu  und  von  den 
angrenzenden  Theilen  Europa's,  von  Yiuzena  v.  Haardt  (the  Author)  j  Synchronoua 


T^E  ANNIYERSARY  MEETING. 


451 


Weathef  Charts  of  the  North  Atlantic  and  the  adjacent  Continents,  for  e^ery  day^ 
from  Ist  August,  1882,  to  aiat  Auguat,  1883 ;  Parte  L  and  IL  (Meteorological 
Office) ;  Atkus  de  la  Republica  Argentina ;  Part  I,  (rinBtitnt  G^ographique  Argontin). 

The  Maps  in  the  Society ^a  Collection  have  been  made  frequent  use  of  by  the 
FellowB  of  the  Society,  public  offices,  and  the  general  public.  The  large  Maps  and 
Views  have  been  lent  to  illustrate  lectures  delivered  at  the  meetings  of  learned 
societies  and  public  institutions,  as  well  as  to  private  individuals.  Twenty-two  new- 
diagrams  have  been  constructed  on  the  premises,  aud  important  alterations  mode  in 
five  others^  wbib  one  diagram  has  been  drawn  outside  the  biiilding,  and  tenders  for 
the  construction  of  two  more  have  been  accepted. 

Library^ — During  the  past  year  the  presentations  to  the  Library,  by  authors, 
publishers,  and  others,  have  been  more  numerous  than  ever. 

995  books  and  pamphlets  have  been  added  during  the  year  ;  845  by  donation, 
and  150  by  purctiase  ;  160  pamphlets  have  been  put  in  covers  by  the  Society's  map- 
mounter,  and  262  volumes  have  been  bound. 

The  sum  of  89^.  6^.  4d  haa  been  spent  in  purchasing  books,  and  the  further  sum 
of  %1L  16*,  %d.  in  binding  fc»r  the  Library* 

Among  the  more  important  accessions  are  the  following; — Schliemann's 
*  Tiryns '  j  *  Kombres  Geogrdfioos  de  Mexico,*  with  separate  Atlas  (the  Mexican 
Government) ;  the  *  Encjclopfladia  Britannica,*  9tli  edition.  Vol,  XXL  (Messrs. 
A.  &  C.  Black)  ;  Richthofen's  *  Fiihrer  far  Forschungsreisende '  (the  Publishers) ; 
Henry's  *  Ling-Nam,  or,  Interior  Views  of  Southern  China*  (the  Publishers); 
continuation  of  the  Reports  of  the  Scientific  Results  of  the  Voyage  of  the  Challenger 
(by  the  Lords  of  the  Treasury) ;  the  publications  of  the  Meteorological  Office ;  con- 
tinuation of  the  General  Report  of  the  Survey  of  lodiaj  and  several  volumes  of 
Max  Miiller's  *  Sacred  Books  of  the  East '  (H.M.  Secretary  of  State  for  India) ;  con- 
tinuatioDS  of  the  Memoirs  and  Records  of  the  Geological  Survey  of  India  (the 
Indian  Government)  ;  the  Publications  de  TEcole  des  Langues  Orientales  Vivantes 
(the  French  Minister  of  Public  InBtruction)  ;  various  publications  of  the  De'i,)6t  des 
Cartes  et  Plans  de  la  Marine,  the  Chinese  Imperial  Maritime  Customs^  and  the 
Victoria  and  Queensland  Governments  ;  Monographs  of  the  United  States  Geologi- 
cal Survey,  Vols,  IX.  and  XI.,  Bulletin  of  the  U.S.  Goolpgical  Survey,  and  Fourth 
and  Fiftli  Annual  Reports  of  tbe  U.8,  Geological  Survey  (J.  W.  Powell,  Director  of 
the  Survey)  j  continuation  of  the  Reports  of  the  Tenth  Census  of  the  United  States, 
1880  J  the  Works  of  Hubert  Howe  Bancroft,  17  vols. ;  Annual  Report  of  the  Geo- 
logical and  Natural  History  Survey  of  Canada  (the  Director  of  the  Survey) ;  the 
Norwegian  North-Atlantic  Expedition  (the  Editorial  Committee);  Radde's  '  Reisen 
an  dcr  Persisch-RusBischen  Grenze '  (the  Publisher) ;  *  Die  Internationale  Polar- 
forschung,  1882-83,'  4  parts  (the  Royal  Academy  of  Sciences,  Vienna)  j  Observa* 
tiotis  of  the  Intenmtional  Polar  Expeditions,  1882-€3,  Fort  Rae  (the  Meteorological 
Office) ;  the  publications  of  the  Prussian  Geodetic  Institute  ;  the  Hakluyt  Society *fi 
publications;  Sttibera  ^Ski^zen  aus  Ecuador*;  Verbeck^s  *  Krakatau/ with  Atks 
(the  Government  of  the  Netherlands) ;  Legafe*a  'Record  of  Buddhistic  Kingdoms* ; 
PaulitBchke*fl  *  Ethnographie  und  Anthropologic  der  Som&l,  GalJa  und  Hararl*; 
Nordensklcild'H  'GrOnland* ;  Justin  Winsor's  *Hifitory  of  America,*  Vols*  IL,  III., 
and  IV. ;  Bassett*s  •  Persia '  (the  Publishers) ;  *  Twent)  -one  Years*  Work  of  the 
Palestine  Exploration  Fund  *  (the  Publisher) ;  *  Report  n|X)n  the  Third  International 
Geographical  Congress  and  Exhibition,  Venice,  1881'  (Gapt.  G»  M.  Wheeler); 
Norman's  *  Colonial  France '  (the  PublisherB) ;  Brown  &  Bank's  *  Dictionary  of  the 
Duke  of  York  Island  Language*  [in  Manuscript]  (Rev.  G*  Brown) ;  *  The  Dawn  of 
British  Trade  to  the  East  Indies  *  (the  Publishers) ;  Rein's  *  Japan,*  2tea  Band  (the 
Autkor) ;  WoeikofiTs  *  Die  Klimate  der  Erde,'  2  vols, ;  Bartholomew's  '  Gazetteer  of 


452 


THE  ANNITEESARY  MEETING. 


the  Britisli  Isles  *  (Mr,  Bartbolomew)  j  Steinen's  '  Dorch  Central-BrasiJieu  * ;  Con- 
der*B  'Syrian  Stone-Lore';  UuWs  'Monnt  Seir,  Smai,  and  Western  Palestine'; 
Marjnj's  *  Mdmoires  et  Documents  pour  scrvir  k  l*Ki8toir0  des  Originea  Fran^aises 
des  Pays  Outre-Merj'  Tome  V* ;  Mommsen's  *  Provinces  of  the  Koman  Empire,'  2 
vols.;  Eeclua'  'The  Earth/  do.  *The  Ocean,  Atmosphere  and  Life'  (the  Piiblisher). 
Admiral  Sir  E.  OMiiANKEY  moved  the  adoption  of  the  Report ;  Mr.  J.  Thoksok 
seconded  the  motion »  which  was  agreed  to. 


PRESENTATION  OP  THE  BOTAL  MEDALS. 

ThiBoyal  Medals  for  the  encouragement  of  Geographical  Scicnco  and  Disoovery, 
liAd  l)6flD  awarded  fey  the  Council  as  follows  :— 

The  Founder's  Medal,  to  Lieuteo ant-Col.  T.  H.  HOLUloff,  b.e*  ;  in  oonaideration 
of  the  services  he  baa  rendered  to  geograpliical  scienco  by  the  zeal  and  devotion 
with  which  he  lias  carried  out  the  surveys  in  Afghanistan ;  first  in  1878-80,  when 
be  explored  the  Bori  valley  route  and  mapped  tlie  country  near  the  BelucbLstan 
border,  and  subsequently,  as  senior  survey  officer  with  the  army  in  Northern 
Afghanistan,  a«:ended  the  Lughman  Range ;  in  ISBl-SB,  when  in  the  course  of  hifl 
surveys  of  the  East-ern  Afghan  boundary  be  carried  his  instruments  to  the  summit 
of  the  Takht-i-Sulimsn  ;  and  lastly  in  1884-86,  when,  as  chief  of  the  survey  party 
of  the  Husso-Afghan  Boundary  Commission,  be  availed  himself  of  the  opportxmity  to 
extend  the  survey  opemtioos  over  an  area  of  more  than  100^000  square  miles.  Also, 
for  his  numerous  valuable  contributions  since  1879  to  the  Society's  *  Proceedings^' 

The  Patron*s  Medal  to  Mr.  G.  Gbekfell,  for  the  extensive  explorations  he  has 
carried  out  during  His  thirteen  years*  residence  in  West  Africa ;  first  in  the  CameroonB 
country,  and  afterwards  on  the  CJongo,  and  especially,  for  his  reconnaissance  surveys 
of  the  tributaries  of  the  Congo,  eleven  of  which  be  has  ascended,  laying  down  their 
courses  in  a  series  of  preliminary  charts  on  a  large  scale. 

The  Chaibman  in  presenting  the  Founder's  Medal  to  Lieut- -Col.  T.  H.  Holdich, 
R.E.,  thus  addressed  bim ;— Colonel  Holdich,  the  Council  of  the  Royal  Geographical 
Society  have  by  a  imanimons  vote  awarded  to  you  the  Patron's  Royal  Medal,  in 
consideration  of  the  great  services  you  have  rendered  to  geography  in  connection 
with  surveys,  chiefly  carried  out  in  Afghanistan,  during  the  last  eight  years.  In 
1878-79,  whilst  attached  to  a  column  of  the  Indian  Army  in  Southern  Afghanistan, 
vou  mapi^ed  the  country,  then  explored  for  the  first  time,  north  of  Beluchistan  along 
the  Bori  valley »  from  the  Britisli  frontier  ha  the  vicinity  of  the  Indus  to  Piahin,  weat 
of  Quetta.  Jn  the  following  year,  in  Northern  Afghanistan,  you  were  the  first 
Englishman  to  ascend  the  Pagbman  range  which  lies  between  Kabul  and  the  passes 
of  the  Hindu-Eush,  and  duriijg  the  whole  of  the  military  operations  in  those  years, 
your  Ecal  and  iotelligontse  contributed  greatly  to  the  success  of  the  geographical 
exploration  carried  out,  which  has  added  about  40,000  square  miles  to  the  area  before 
surveyed  and  mapfjed. 

In  1S81-83,  when  in  charge  of  survey  operations  on  the  Afghan  boundary  of 
British  India  to  the  west  of  the  Indas,  you  reached  tlie  summit  of  the  Takht-i- 
Suliman,  being  the  first  European  wlio  had  ascended  that  mountain,  and  from  that 
elevation  were  able  to  obtain  much  insight  into  the  topography  of  hitherto  un- 
explored regions  west  of  the  Sulimani  range,  and  the  routes  between  India  and 
Candahar  passiog  through  it. 

Lastly  when  appointed  to  be  Chief  of  the  Survey  party  attached  to  the  Joint 
Commia«ion  for  settling  the  Russo- Afghan  Boundary  yon  were  able  with  the 
co-operation  of  the  excellent  staff  of  oflScera  under  you  to  complete  a  survey  covei^ 
jng  an  area  of  not  far  from  120,000  square  miles,  extending  from  Khoraasan  and 


« 


THE  ANNITERSAEY  MEETING. 


453 


South-eastern   Persia  to   tbe  Upper  Oxus,    These  aaccessfd  results  liave  largely 
been  due  to  your  owu  energetic  aiiperviaion. 

I  may  add  that  it  ia  with  special  perBonal  satisfaction  to  myself  lb  at  I  discharge 
the  aj^reeable  duty  of  haDdiug  you  thia  Medal,  and  that  I  reco^oise  ia  you,  and 
the  officers  associated  with  you  in  your  labours,  worthy  upholders  of  the  traditions 
of  the  distinguished  Corps  of  Royal  Engineers  to  which  we  all  have  the  honour  to 
belong. 

Lieut. -Col,  HoLBicH  in  expressing  bis  deep  sense  of  the  honour  conferred  upon 
him,  said,  that  Turkistan  was  far  away  even  from  India,  and  although  no  record 
had  been  published  of  the  work  of  the  Afghan  Boundary  Commission,  yet  it  would 
easily  he  understood  by  geograpliers  that  to  carry  a  connected  survey  from  lodia 
into  those  seemingly  endless  wastes,  and  to  establish  a  geodetic  connection  with 
the  Indian  Survey  was  a  problem  far  beyond  the  capacity  of  any  single  officer. 
That  he  succeeded  was  really  owiog  to  the  very  able  and  energetic  assistance  he 
received  from  others.  It  was  on  the  shoulders  of  Major  Gore  and  Major  Talbot  of 
the  Engineers  that  the  burden  of  the  scientific  work  of  the  Commission  really 
fell,  and  although  geographical  map-making  should  be  regarded  rather  as  a  large 
iocident  than  the  object  of  tbe  Commission,  aod  it  was  to  the  energy  of  those 
officers  supported  by  a  small  staff  of  native  assistants  that  such  a  measure  of  suooesB 
was  duo  as  they  had  been  able  to  attain.  In  the  name  of  thoee  officers  as  well  as 
in  his  own,  he  thanked  tbe  Society  for  the  honour  conferred  upon  them,  and  for  the 
high  compliment  that  had  once  again  been  paid  to  the  Department  to  which  they 
ail  belonged, 

llie  Chairman,  in  banding  the  Patron*B  Medal  to  Mr.  Grenfell,  said  :  The  Royal 
Medals  entrusted  to  this  Society  for  rewarding  signal  services  in  the  cause  of  geo- 
graphical science  and  discovery  have  often  been  adjudicated  to  African  explorers, 
but  rarely  have  they  been  given  to  a  tmveller  who  has  labouretl  so  long  and  con- 
tinuously and  to  such  good  purpose  as  yourself.  It  is  now  thirteen  years  since  you  first 
began  that  series  of  explorations  of  the  rivers  of  the  African  continent,  for  which  the 
Mission  on  which  you  wc^re  engaged  afforded  you  opportunities,  and  the  highly  in- 
telligent and  persevering  prosecution  of  which  has  enabled  you  to  add  so  greatly  to 
our  accurate  knowledge  of  previously  unknown  regions. 

In  your  earlier  journeys  in  the  Cameroons  country,  between  1874  and  1881,  you 
travelled  some  1300  miles  on  foot,  and  more  than  5000  miles  tn  canoes,  ascending 
and  charting  the  rivers  as  far  as  they  were  navigable.  During  one  of  your  brief 
visits  to  England  you  communicated  to  the  Society  an  account  of  these  explorations 
which  was  published  in  our  *  Proceedings '  for  1882.  Your  subsequent  journeys  in 
the  large  field  of  the  Congo  basin,  carried  out  in  the  coarse  of  your  labours  for  the 
Baptist  Misaiouary  Society,  who  were  the  first  to  occupy  the  new  ground  o[)€ned  by 
the  discoveries  of  Stanley,  commenced  with  the  arrival  of  the  steamer  Fcace  at 
Stanley  PooL  Your  first  journey  in  this  steamer,  on  which  you  and  your  colleague, 
the  Eev.  Mr.  Comber,  ascended  the  Bochini  river,  was  the  beginning  of  a  brilliant 
sucoetaion  of  ejtplorations  of  the  main  Congo  and  its  tributaries,  which  continued  until 
your  departure  from  Africa  a  few  weeks  ago. 

Yon  ascended  the  ^reat  northern  aflluent,  the  Mobangi,  through  5^  of  latitude ; 
and  most  of  the  southern,  as  well  as  other  northern  tributaries  of  the  Congo, 
the  courses  of  which  were  previously  totally  unknown,  were  explored  and  maiiped 
by  you,  in  every  case  as  far  as  they  were  navigable. 

In  all  these  ad V en tiu*ous  voyages,  amidst  the  anxieties  and  dangers  of  journeys 
through  countries  peopled  by  distrustful  or  hostile  savages,  you  never  lost  sight  of  the 
need  of  geographical  precision.  Your  course  was  plotted  from  hour  to  hour  by  an  uq^ 
interrupted  system  of  dead  reckoning  and  compasa  bearings,  conected  by  frequent 


464 


THE  INKIYERSART  MEETING. 


I  obaeiratioDS  for  latitude.  And  when  jour  field-books  and  large-scale  charts  fihall 
have  beta  checked  and  revised,  they  will  aupply  an  addition  to  geographical  knowledge 
rarely  obtained  by  one  traveller  in  a  pioDeer  journey  through  an  unknown  country. 
Mr.  Ghenfell  having  received  the  Medal/said  he  very  highly  esteemed  the  dis- 
tinction which  the  Society  had  conferred  upon  him.  Next  to  the  confidence  of  his 
own  Committee  he  should  value  the  appreciation  which  the  Royal  Geographical 
Society  had  ihown  of  hia  work.     He  could  not  say  that  it  would  inapire  him  to 

I  further  devotion  in  the  cause  of  geography,  for  his  irjterest  in  that  direction  had 
never  neeiled  any  stimulant.  Ever  since  he  was  a  schoolboy  geogra|ihical  matten* 
had  had  a  charm  for  him,  and  ho  remembered  how  greatly  he  was  surpriseii  when 
he  found  that  his  Echool follows  did  not  take  the  same  interest  in  them  that  he 
himself  did.  This  feeling  of  surprise  in  later  years  gave  place  to  one  of  keen 
regret  that  a  country  like  England,  which  was  so  largely  de|)endent  upon  it& 
colonies,  should  neglect  the  study  of  that  science.  While  abroad  he  had  been 
greatly  encouraged  to  hear  of  tiie  renewed  attention  which  had  been  given  in  that 
direction  by  people  at  home,  Ue  was  also  greatly  cheered  to  find  that  the  Society 
had  set  itself  to  the  work  of  popularising  geographical  instruction  in  schools,  and  he 
hoped  that  their  efforts  would  be  eminently  successful.  They  had,  however, 
awakened  very  late  to  the  realisation  of  the  importaoce  of  the  matter,  and  not 
before  vital  interests  had  been  put  in  peril  The  increased  attention  that  was  now 
being  jjaid  to  geography  might  yet,  he  trusted,  result  in  a  healthy  public  opinion 
which  would  save  the  country  from  threatened  disaster. 

The  Awabj5  of  the  MuEomsoN  and  Back  Grants  anh  the  Gill  Memorial, 

The  Chaibkan  announced  the  following  awards : — 

The  MuRruTH'^K  Ghakt  for  1887,  to  Mr*  Gkoiige  Boubne,  second  in  command^ 
and  now  sole  survivor  of  the  Landsborough  Expedition  which  crossed  the  continent 
of  Australia  in  1861,  in  search  of  Burke  aod  Wills. 

The  Back  Pbehidu  for  1867^  to  Sabat  Cbakpba  Dbab,  for  his  researches  m 
Tibet, 

ITie  Gill  Memorial  for  1887,  to  Mr.  J,  F,  Keehham,  in  recognition,  of  his 
services  in  exploring  the  valley  of  the  Lohit  Brahmaputra  between  Assam  and  the 
Zayiil  Valley  of  Til«t. 

Ko  grant  was  made  this  year  from  the  Cuthbert  Peek  Fund, 

The  three  Honorary  Corresponding  Memberships  for  1887  bad  been  voted  to 
H.R.H.  Kboh  Mxrs  Dambong  Rajah  Kubhabp,  Director- General  of  Surveys, 
Siam  ;  Dr.  A.  Kibcuoff,  Professor  of  Geograpliy  at  the  University  of  Halle;  and  Dr. 
F.  Nauhan'x,  late  Director  of  the  Geographical  and  TuiKigraphical  Survey  of  Japan. ^ 

The  Ballot  for  the  new  Council  was  then  taken. 


*  The  Mei>ai*  for  the  Pxomolion  of  Geographical  Education,  placed  by  the  Society 
at  the  dii|K)&al  of  the  Syndicates  respectively  of  the  Oxford  and  Cambridge  Local 
Exatninations,  were  awarded  as  follows  ;— 

188G.  Oxford  (June).— 5i7tTr  Jlf^iiaZ— Arthur  Kent  Chignell,  Brockley.     Bronte 
Medal— T)&\'id  Lamlalo  Johnston,  Boston. 
t:amhridge  (December).  ^-  Silver    Medal  —  (Physical   Geogrraphy)  —  Arthur 
Thomas  Maaterman.    SHner  Medal — (Political  Geography)— Edith  Apple- 
yard. 
The  Prizo  Atlases  offered  by  the  Society  for  Geographical  Pro6cieQcy  to  tbe  cadets 
of  the  Nautical  Training  Collcfres  on  hoard  H.M.  shi|>s  Worcetter  and  Gmtcafj^  were 
awarded,  at  the  examinatioas  htld  in  July  188G^  to  the  following  : — John  David  Aaron 
(Woroenfer  training-ship);  John  Byasa  Watson  {ihniray  train  in  g-ahip). 


BEPOBT  OF  THE  EVENING  HEETINOa.  455 


THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS. 


The  Ghaibm AN  delivered  the  Annual  Address  on  the  Progress  of  Geography  in 
the  year  1886-7.    {Ante,  June  No.,  p.  331.) 

Sir  H.  Eawlinson  said  that  for  over  thirty  years  he  had  attended  the  Annual 
Meetings  of  the  Society,  but  he  did  not  remember  that  he  had  ever  listened  to  a 
discourse  from  the  chair  which  he  considered  more  worthy  of  a  Scientific  Society. 
Sketches  of  travels  and  explorations  were  very  interesting,  but  geography  was  a 
more  serious  matter  than  a  collection  of  anecdotes  and  voyages.  It  had  been  treated 
in  a  serious  manner  by  the  President,  greatly  to  the  edification  of  those  who  had 
listened  to  him.  In  conclusion  he  proposed  a  vote  of  thanks  to  General  Strachey, 
and  wished  him  a  successful  presidential  career. 

Sir  Joseph  Hookeb  seconded  the  vote  of  thanks,  which  was  agreed  to. 

On  the  concliision  of  the  Address  the  Scrutineers  announced  that  the  List  of 
Officers,  as  recommended  by  the  Council,  had  been  unanimously  voted.  The  Ck>ancil 
for  1887-8  is  therefore  constituted  as  follows  (the  names  printed  in  italics  being  new 
Members  or  those  who  change  office) : — 

President :  —  General  Richard  Straehey,  bjb.,  c.8.1.,  p.b.8.  Vice-Presidmiis  : 
Bight  Hon.  Lord  Aherdare,  g.cb.,  f.b.8.;  Sir  Eutherford  Alcock,  k.o.b.;  Sir 
Joseph  Hooker,  k.c.s.i.,  c.b.,  f.b.8.;  Major-General  Sir  H.  G.  Rawlinson,  k.c.b. ; 
General  Sir  C.  P.  Beauchamp  Walker,  k.o.b.  ;  Colonel  E.  Yule,  b.k.,  c.b.  Treasurer : 
Reginald  T.  Cocks,  Esq,  Trustees :  Sir  Barrow  H.  Ellis,  k.o.bj.  ;  Sir  J.  Lubbock, 
Bart.,  F.B.8.,  M.p.  Secretaries :  Clements  R.  Markham,  Esq.,  c.b.,  f.b.s.  ;  Douglas 
W.  Freshfield,  Esq.  Foreign  Secretary:  Lord  Arthur  Russell.  Members  of 
Council :  Sir  Henry  Barkly,  g.c.m.g.,  k.o.b.  ;  W.  T.  Blanford,  Esq.,  f.b.s.  ;  Admiral 
Lindesay  Brine ;  Hon.  G.  C.  Brodrick ;  J.  Annan  Bryce,  Esq. ;  Colonel  Sir  Francis 
AV.  De  Winton,  b.a.,  k.o.m.g.  ;  Bight  Hon,  Sir  M.  E.  Grant  Duff,  g.c.8.i.  ;  Francis 
Gallon,  Esq,,  f.b.8.  ;  Major-General  Sir  F.  J.  Goldmid,  K.o.s.i.,  c.b.  ;  Colonel  J.  A. 
Grant,  c.b.,  f.b.8.  ;  Sir  John  Kirk,  G.O.M.G.,  f.b.8.  ;  Lieut-General  Sir  Peter  5. 
Lumsden,  g.o.b.  ;  Colin  Mackenzie,  Esq.  ;  William  Mackinnon,  Esq,,  c.i.E. ;  E» 
Delmar  Morgan,  Esq. ;  Cuthbert  E.  Peek,  Esq.,  f.b.a.8.  ;  Sir  Bawson  W.  Bawson, 
K.C.M.G.,  aB.;  Sir  Thomas  F.  Wade,  k.cb.;  Captain  W.  J.  L.  Wharton,  b.n.; 
General  J.  T.  Walker,  c.b.,  fas.;  Colonel  Sir  Chas,  W.  Wilson,  B.B.,  k.c.m.g. 


EEPOBT  OP  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS,  SESSION  1886-7. 

Thtrteenih  Meeting,  June  6th^  1887. — General  B.  Stbachet,  b.e..  President^ 

in  the  Chair. 
Pbesbntations. — Colonel  Edmund  Mdyneux ;  F.  E.  Joseph,  Esq. 

Elections. — Alfred  Edward  Carey,  lEsq,;  Walter  G,  Gifford,  Esq,;  Isaac 
Crawford  McLeam,  Esq.,  m.d.  ;  William  Owen,  Esq, ;  Mayor  Power  (84M  Foot) ; 
John  Spencer  Price,  Esq, ;  Samuel  Sandars,  Esq.,  m.a. 

The  paper  read  was : — 

"  A  Journey  through  Manchuria.**    By  H.  E.  M.  James,  Esq. 

Will  be  published,  with  map,  in  the  August  Number  of  the  '  Proceedings.' 


(     456     ) 


PEOCEEDINGS  OF  FOEEIGN  SOCIETIES. 

deofrapMcal  Society  of  Paris^  May  Cth,  1887 :  M.  W.  Hubeb  in  the 
Chair, — The  General  Secretary  stated  that  the  Society  was  in  commiinicatioB  with 
the  Minister  of  Commerce  regarding  the  project  for  holding  a  retrospective  exhibition 
of  French  Science  in  connection  with  the  Exhihjtion  of  1889. — The  Commercial 
Geographical  Society  of  Havre  Bent  the  programme  for  this  year's  Congress,  to  be 
held  shortly  in  that  town- — Among  the  works  present^  was  a  brochure,  by  M.  G. 
Demanche,  entitled  '  D^ Alger  h  Kaironan,*  which  gives  an  account  of  his  jonrney 
and  of  the  progress  of  colonisation  in  Tunis,— Dr.  H.  I^abonne,  in  a  letter  of  11th 
of  Aprilj  announced  his  departnre  uixjh  a  new  voyage  to  Iceland.  The  volcanoes 
and  glaciers  will  again  he  the  object  of  bis  special  study. — A  note  on  the  ortho- 
*  graphy  of  the  word  "  Tibet"  was  read  from  M.  L,  Peer,  of  the  National  Library ,^ — 
Some  information  as  to  Lieutenant-Colonel  Gallieni*s  operations  in  the  countries 
between  the  Senegal  and  Gambia  was  aflbrded  in  several  letters  which  were  read. 
It  would  appear  from  these  that  the  two  columns  charged  to  operate  against 
Mahmadou-Lamlne  at  Diana,  have  surveyed  all  the  country  as  far  as  the  Gambia; 
one  party  of  oflScers  traversed  the  territory  between  the  Bafing  and  the  Faleme,  and 
another,  under  Captain  Oberdorf,  pushed  forward  as  far  as  Dinguiray  and  returned 
to  Kita,  The  French  Protectorate  has  been  extended  over  all  the  provinces  up  to 
the  Gambia*  The  Uassnlu  mission  is  now  crossing  the  Great  Beledugu,  Its  return 
will  probably  be  effected  through  the  countries  of  Amana,  ISalega,  and  Nahu.  The 
unexplored  triangle  between  the  Bafing  and  the  Bachoi  will  be  surveyed  and  the 
valley  of  the  Upper  Niger  more  thoroughly  studied.  The  geographical  results  will 
be  communicated  to  the  Society.— M.  P.  Dufourcq  forwarded  two  letters  from  M*  P. 
Cholet,  Governor  of  the  Niadi-Lndima  region.  The  writer  had  arrived  at  Bnucza- 
ville  from  a  journey  down  the  valley  of  the  Niadi,  He  intended  to  travel  from 
Buanza  to  the  Ogowc  and  then  from  France ville  to  M'Luete. — A  communication 
was  read  from  Dr.  Rouire  on  the  Dolmens  of  Enfida. — Dr,  Hamy  sent  a  paper  on 
the  ruins  of  Copan,  which  was  a  reply  to  M,  H.  de  Charencey. — News  of  M. 
ChaQanjon's  expedition  was  received  in  two  letters  from  the  traveller  himself,  the 
latter  of  which  was  dated  25  th  March,  from  Ciudad  Bolivar,  He  had  returned  from  his 
journey  to  the  Upper  Orinoco  and  had  achieved  a  great  success,  having  very  thoroughly 
studied  the  source  of  that  river  and  its  connection  with  the  Amazons  by  means  of 
the  Casfiiquiari*  He  had  determined  the  course  of  the  Orinoco  by  nearly  100  astro- 
nomical observations.  A  chain  of  mountains  in  the  form  of  a  fan  surrounds  the 
sources  of  the  river,  to  a  jjortion  of  which  he  had  given  the  name  of  De  Lesseps. 
The  Guaharibos  Indians,  who  inhabit  the  upper  valley,  are  a  great  source  of  terror  to 
the  other  tribea.  M.  Chaffanjon  intendLd  to  return  to  France  in  July  after  he  had 
completed  the  second  part  of  his  program  me,  which  included  an  excursion  from  Goura 
to  the  sources  of  the  Essequibo. — Some  notes  on  M.  Eamon-Llsta's  recent  expedition 
to  Tierra  del  Fuego  were  communicattd  by  M.  H.  L*Huisaier,  of  Buenos  Ayres. 
The  traveller  is  of  opinion  that  frost  is  practically  unknown  in  the  island,  such  is 
the  extreme  humidity  of  the  climate.  Two  skirmishes  took  place  with  the  natives. 
The  latter  wear  hardly  any  clothing  and  live  in  boles  dug  in  the  ground;  their  bows 
and  arrows  are  of  the  most  primitive  descriptiou.  They  subsist  on  the  produce  of 
the  chase  and  on  the  leguminous  plants  with  which  the  region  abounds. — A 
communication  was  read  from  M,  Guignet,  suggesting  the  creation  of  permanent 
subterranean  stations  for  provisioning  expeditions  to  the  Arctic  regions  instead  of 
cairns.  The  knowledge  of  the  geology  of  Greenland  and  those  districts  could  thereby 
be  increased .^The  Chairman   intimated  the  presence  at  the  meeting  of  a  very 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


457 


distingxiielied  Austrian  traveller,  M.  Ed.  Gloser,  late  aatroDomer  of  the  Yienna 
Obs«rvatorj-  He  said  tliat  among  otber  results  of  tfae  traveller's  jotimey  in  Yomea 
was  the  aHtronomical  detemimatioTi  for  the  first  time  of  the  longitude  of  the  town 
of  Sanaa-  He  hojjed  that  M,  Glaaer  would  at  aome  future  time  lay  an  account  of 
hla  expedition  before  the  Society.— The  General  Secretary  announced  that  M.  H. 
Coudreaii  was  on  the  eve  of  departure  to  Guiana^  to  continue  his  researches  there. 
His  principal  object  of  exploration  was  the  Tiimuc-Humac  range,  which  Dr.  Crevaux 
crosaed.— His  Highness  Priuoe  of  Monaco  then  gave  a  resume  of  the  results  of  his 
second  scientific  voyage  in  the  North  Atlantic  on  board  the  EirondeUe.  He 
detailed  the  move  men  ta  of  the  various  floats  placed  aome  time  previously  in  different 
spots.  The  zoological  information  obtained  is  very  valuable.  The  temperatures 
were  taken  at  different  depths  along  a  line  from  Brittany  to  GaUcia, — In  conclusion, 
a  paper  was  read  by  M,  Decazes,  from  the  Congo,  giving  some  interesting  information 
of  the  countries  traverBed  by  him  during  the  hiat  four  years.  He  ascended  the 
Ogow^  in  a  canoe.  The  Pahuins  wiU,  according  to  him,  in  a  very  few  years  have 
extended  aver  the  whole  valley  uf  the  river.  Although  very  quarrelsome  and 
warlike,  theae  people  have  a  taate  for  work  and  trade.  Tlje  last  Pahuin  vilkges 
are  now  found  a  little  above  the  Lolo.  After  this  point  the  Chehos  and  Adtimaa  are 
met  with.  The  traveller  visited  the  country  of  the  Batekes  and  gave  a  very 
instructive  account  of  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  natives.  He  navigated  most 
of  the  tributaries  of  the  Ogowd  and  the  Alima,  The  Apfurns  inhabiting  the  banks 
of  the  latter  river  trade  chiefly  in  manioc. 

May  20tb,  1887:  M.  W.  Hdber  in  the  Chair.— The  Seientific  Asso- 
ciation of  Fmnoe  announced  that  the  date  of  tbe  opening  of  the  year'a  Congress  had 
been  fixed  for  September  22nd.  The  Congress  would  be  held  at  Toulousej  and  would 
close  on  the  29th  September. — A  letter  was  read  from  Dr.  Labonne,  dated  0th  May, 
from  Reykjavik  (Iceland),  according  to  which  he  was  about  to  attempt  to  double 
Cape  Nord,  if  not  prevented  by  icebergs. — From  Taahkend,  on  I4th  March, 
M.  B.  Muller,  a  member  of  the  Society,  wrote,  annoimcing  the  departure  of  MM. 
Capua  and  Bonvalot  from  Margilan,  T}ie  writer  had  received  a  letter  from  M.  Capua, 
accordijag  to  which  M.  Bonvalot  was  at  Osh,  endeavouring  to  ascertain  whether  the 
pass  of  AM  WAS  practicable*  The  latter  had  jufit  telegraphed  to  his  companions  to 
move  forward*  The  perils  of  this  enterprise  were,  according  to  the  writer,  very  great. 
H.  Maillet  informed  the  Society  that  he  had  received  a  letter  dated  15th  March, 
from  M.  Bonvalot,  who  was  then  at  the  camp  of  Ak-Ba»oga,  at  the  foot  of  tbe  defile 
of  Taldyk,  and  four  days*  march  from  Lake  Kara-knl, — The  Marquis  de  Roche^ 
mooteix  stated  that  M.  A,  de  Barncl,  an  engineer  in  the  service  of  the  Argentine 
Republic,  was  making  some  useful  explorations  in  Chaco. — The  Chairman  announced 
the  presence  of  Dr.  Junker,  to  whose  valuable  geographical  work  he  referred  in 
graceful  terms.  Dr.  Junker  then  gave  a  rapid  sketch  of  his  travels,  which  will 
appear  in  the  next  number  of  the  *Compte  Rendu/  M.  Dutreuil  de  Hhins  asked 
the  traveller  a  question  as  to  tbe  connection  between  the  Welle -Ma  kna  and  the 
Mobamgi,  to  which  Dr,  Junker  replied  that  he  was  unable  at  present  to  say  anything 
definite  on  the  subject. — The  Ghaimian  stated  that  His  Highness  Prince  of  Monaco 
had  started  for  Kewfoundland* — The  General  Secretary  announced  that  an  exhibition 
would  be  opened  at  the  Trocadero  Museum  on  23rd  May,  of  the  collections  and 
objects  brought  home  by  M,  J.  Martin  from  Eastern  Siberia.— M.  Jacottet  presented 
on  behalf  of  the  publishers  the  third  volume  of  the  *  Blcttonnaire  de  G^pgraphie 
Universelle,*  the  entire  work  would  be  complete  in  five  volumes,  and  the  Seoretary 
laid  on  the  table  two  Memoirs,  by  Roland  Bonaparte,  one  entitled  *  Notes  on  the 
Lapps  of  Finmark/  and  the  other  *  Le  fleuve  Augusta'  (New  Guinea).^ — Dr.  Delisle 
communicated  an  extract  from  a  letter  from  Dr.  Hamy,  who  is  fulfilling  a  scientific 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICiX  PUBLICATIONS. 

mission  in  Tunis.  He  had  reached  the  south  of  Tunis  after  considerable  fatigue, 
and  hod  obtained  some  interesting  anthropological  Information, — In  conclnBion, 
M.  H-  Duveyrier  gave  a  resumS  of  the  results  of  his  mission  of  exploration  in  the 
unknown  part  of  North  Morocco.* 


NEW  GEOGEAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS- 

(Bj  J.  Scott  Esltib,  Librarian  B.a.s.] 

EUEOPE. 

Saddeley»  M.  J.  B,— Thorough  Guide  Series,  The  Northern  Highlands  (Scotland 
Part  IJ,)  containing  a  full  description  of  Aberdeen,  Inverness,  Loch  Marce,  and 
Gairloch,  and  of  the  Mainknd  north  of  those  places  in  the  counties  of  Aberdeen, 
Banff,  Elgin  and  Nairn,  Inverness,  Ross,  Cromarthy,  SutherlBnd,  and  Caithness. 
Third  edition.  London,  Dulan  &  Co.,  1886  :  12mo,,  pp.  ixr.  and  138,  maps  and 
plans.    Price  3s.  ^id,     [Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 


—  —  and  C.  S.  Ward,— Ditto,  Korlh  Wales  (Part  I,)  Chester,  Bhyl,  Llan- 
dudno, Bangor,  Llanrwst,  Bettws-y-Coed,  Carnarvon,  Llanberis,  Beddgelert,  and 
Ffestiniog  Sections.  London,  Dnlau  ife  Co.,  1887  :  ISmo*,  pp.  xxiiii,  and  218, 
maps  and  plans.    Price  3a.  6d,    [Presented  by  the  Publisher »] 

Baadaker,  K, — The  Rhine,  from  Rotterdam  to  Constance,  Handbook  for  Tra- 
vellers. With  30  maps  and  22  plans.  Tenth  revised  edition.  Leipeic,  Karl 
Baedeker ;  London,  Dulau  &  Co.,  1886  ;  12mo.,  pp.  iiiv.  and  410.  Price  B$. 
[Presented  by  Messrs.  Dulau  &  Co.] 

[Italy-]^Annuario  Statistico  Italiano,  Anno  1886.  Roma,  Tip.  Eredi  Botta, 
1887  r  4to„  pp.  cckxxv.  and  1102. 

Leyat,  E.— Katalo^  der  meteorologischen  Beobachtangen  in  Rusaland  nnd  Finn- 
land.  VierterSuppIementband  sum  Reper tori um  fiir  Meteorologiej  herausgegeben 
von  der  K.  Academio  der  Wissenschaften.  St.  Petersburg,  1887 ;  4to.,  pp.  xxiL 
and  435, 

Eykatschew,  M. —  Uber  den  Auf-  und  Zugang  der  Grewaaser  dea  Russischen 
Reiches.  Zweiter  Supplementband  zum  Repertorium  fiir  Meteorologie,  heraus- 
giegeben  von  der  Kaiserlichen  Academie  der  Wissenscbaften,  St.  Petersburg, 
1887 :  4to.,  pp.  103  and  309,  maps. 

WaM&l,  E. — Wahre  Tagesmittel  nnd  Tagliche  Yariation  der  Temperatur  an  18 
Stat  ion  en  des  Russischen  Reiches.  Dritter  Supplementband  zum  Repertorium 
fiir  Metoorologie,  herausgegieben  von  der  K.  Academie  der  Wissenschaften. 
St.  Petersburg,  1887 :  4to.,  pp.  ixL  and  dxxxvi. 

Ward,  C.  S. — Thorough  Guide  Series,  The  Eastern  Counties,  their  Watering 
Places,  their  Cathedral  Cities,  and  other  places  of  interest,  tc^ether  with  the 
approaches  from  London.  Second  edition  revised.  London,  t)u1au  &  Co.,  1886 : 
12mo.,  pp.  xvi.  and  131,  maps  and  plans.  Price  2s.  6d  [Presented  by  the 
Publisher.] 


Will  be  published  in  the  *  Quarterly  Balletin.' 


KEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PtJBUCATIONS. 


169 


ASIA. 
[India-] — TrigODOtnetrical  BraDcK,  Survey  of  India,  Spirit-Leveled  Heights,  No.  1, 
Madras  Presidency,  Seasona  1869-85.  Pr^epared  ia  the  Office  of  the  Trigono- 
metrical Branch,  Survey  of  Indift,  Colonel  C.  T.  Haig,  r.e.,  Offg,  Deputy 
Surveyor  General,  in  Charge.  Puhlished  under  the  orders  of  Lieut.-Col  H.  It. 
ThuilUcr,  n.E^,  Offg,  Surveyor  General  of  India.  Behra  Bun,  printed  at  the 
Trigonometrical  Branch  Office^  Survey  of  India,  1886 :  8vo.,  pp.  xviii*  and  188, 
diagrams, 

Do,  Nob.  2  and  3,  Bombay  Presidency  and  Nizam^s  Dominions,    Seasons 

1877-^0,    Bevised  edition.     Prepared,  &c,    Bebra  Dun,  printed  at  do.,  ISSG: 
8vo.»  pp.  xix*  and  112,  diagrams. 

SementSf  D. —  DremoBti  Minusinskago  Mns^ya.     Pamktniki   metallicheakikh 

epokh,      Tomsk,  1886  :  pp.  185,  21  plates  in  separate  cover. 

This  little  work,  preafiuted  by  the  Public  Museum  of  Minusinsk,  through 
N*  Martianof,  a  member  of  the  ConamitCee,  contains  a  description  of  prehistoric 
antTqiiities  discovered  in  the  district  of  Minusinsk  on  the  Upper  Yenisey  in  the 
iouth-wefit  of  Eastern  Siberia.  The  objects  described  and  figured  in  the  plates  are 
in  bronze,  copper,  and  iron.  They  compnae  a  variety  of  arms  and  implements 
auch  as  daggere^  knives,  wedge-shai>ed  and  spftde«shaped  tools,  masks,  mirrors, 
horse-karnesSj  bracelets,  |)ottery,  &c.  Some  of  these  relica  arc  superior  in 
design  and  execution  to  anything  one  oould  have  expected  from  auch  a  nide 
age.  The  handles  of  two  of  the  mirrors  represent  animals— the  horned  sheep 
and  the  horse.  Among  other  monuments  mentioned  by  M.  Elements  in  the 
introduction  to  his  book  are  the  miiie  inscriptions  and  hieroglyphs  on  the  rocks 
bordering  the  rivers  of  that  country,  copies  of  which  have  been  sent  to  the 
Imperial  Archaiological  Society  at  St,  Petersburg,  These  are  said  to  bear  a 
strong  resemblance  to  the  writing  of  the  savage  Lolo  tribes  described  by 
Mr.  Col  borne  Baber  (see  *R.  G.S.  Supplementary  Papers,*  vol.  L  p.  IIIG). — 
[E.  D.  M.] 
l[or86t  Edward  8.^P<Jftbody  Academy  of  Science.    Memoirs.^ — Yol.  IL  Japanese 

Homes  and  their  Surroundings,     Salem,  Mass.,  Feabody  Academy  of  Science, 

1886 :  large  8vo.,  pp.  xxxiil  and  372,  illuHtrations,     [Presented  by  the  Peabody 

Academy  of  Science.] 

This  work  is  mainly  architectural.  There  are  descriptions  of  the  Japanese 
House,  its  construction,  &c. ;  the  Types  of  Houses;  Interiors;  Entrances  and 
Approaches;  Gardens;  the  Ancient  House;  and  the  Neighbouring  House, 
including  that  of  the  At  no,  the  Bonin  Islander,  the  Loochooan,  the  Korean, 
and  the  Chinese. 

Taa  der  Stoki  [Br,]  J.  F.^ — Eegenwaamemingen  in  Nederlaudsch-Indie.  Zevende 
Jaargang,  1835.  [Hainfall  in  the  East  Indian  Archipekgo,  Seventh  Year, 
1885.]     Batavb,  Landsdrukkerij,  1836:  8vo.,  pp,  xlL  and  408. 

AFBICA. 
Butler,  [Colonel  Sir]  W.  F. — The  Campaign  of  the  Cataracts,  being  a  personal 
narrative  of  the  Great  Kile  Expedition  of  1884-0.    London,  Sampson  Low  &  Co., 
1887  I  8vo.,  pp.  vii.  and  389,     Price  18j.     [Presented  by  the  Publisher,] 

The  important  part  played  by  Sir  William  Butler  in  the  great  Nile  expedi- 
tion for  the  relief  of  Khartum  ia  well  known,  both  in  getting  the  boata  built  in 
this  country  and  in  guiding  them  up  the  river  with  the  aid  of  his  CauEidian 
voyaqeurn.  Ho  tells  the  story  of  the  unfortunate  exj^edition  with  the  power 
and  picturesqneneas  familiar  to  readers  of  the  *  Great  Lone  Land.*  Of  course  no 
new  ground  was  passed  over,  but  Sir  William  Butler's  description  of  the  various 
stages  of  the  river  journey  and  of  the  f^Mitures  on  its  banks  have  a  geographical 
value*  The  work  is  an  important  contribution  to  the  sti^ry  of  this  great 
campaign.    There  is  a  good  mnp,  and  several  Illustrations  by  Lady  Butler. 


460 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 


Payiie*8  Lagos  and  West  African  Almanack  and  Diary  for  1887.  A  Book  of 
Geneial  RefercncG  and  Icfonnatioo.  With  illustrations.  The  Fourteenth  Year 
of  Issue.  London,  printed  by  T.  G.  John&on  :  large  8vo.,  pp.  200,  [Pfesent^ 
by  John  A.  Payne,  Esq,] 

Zabala,  Amado  Osorio^ — Vocabulary  of  the  Fan  Language  In  Weat-em  Africa, 
8oQth  of  the  Equator.  With  Spanish  Interpretation  prepared  on  the  spot. 
London,  Society  for  Promoting  Christian  Knowledge,  1887 ;  12nio.,  pp.  vi.  and  34. 
[PreseBted  by  R.  K.  Cnst,  Esq.] 

AMERICA, 
[America,  ITjiited  States.iHDepartment  of  the  Interior,  United  States  Geological 
Survey,  J*  W»  Powell,  Director,  Mineral  Resources  of  the  United  States, 
Calendar  Year  1885.  Division  of  Mining  Statistics  and  Technology,  Washington, 
Government  Printing  Office,  1886  ;  8vo*,  pp.  vii.  and  576.  [Presentc*!  by  the 
Director  of  the  United  States  Geological  Survey.] 


New  Tork,  D,  Appleton 


Andrews,  C*  C. — Brazil,  its  Condition  and  Prospects* 
A;  Co.»  1887  :  cr.  8vo.,  pp.  352.     Price  75.  BrI, 

'  Describes  the  present  condition  of  things  in  Braxil,  including  its  Situation, 
ReBOuroes,  and  Climate ;  a  description  of  Rio  and  its  People,  their  Life  and 
Manners ;  American -Brazilian  Relations  ;  PubUo  Instruction  ;  Parliamentary 
Governmeut;  Agriculture  and  Stock-raMng ;  Pubho  Lands  and  Immigra* 
tion,  &c.,  &c, 

BritiBh  Guiana:  its  Past  Historj%  Present  Position,  and  Future  Prospects  in 
relation  to  Venezuela.  A  Lecture  delivered  by  Hugh  Watt,  m,p,,  at  Exeter  Hall, 
on  the  25tli  April,  1887.    1887 ;  8vo.,  pp.  31. 

[Chili] -"Sinopis  Estadistica  y  Geo^ralica  de  Chile  en  1886.  Gfimna  Central  de 
Eetadiatica.     Santiago  de  Chile,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  54, 

Anuario  de    la  OEcina  Central  Meteorolojica  de  Chile,  publicada  por  la 

Comision  de  Meteorolojia,      Tomo  18*^,  corresfKindiente  a  1886.     6°  Cuaderno, 
Setiembre  i  Octubre*    Santiago  de  Chile,  Imp.  Nadonal,  1887 :  8vo.j  plate. 


[GuatemalaO — Infonno  de  la  Direccion  General  d©  Estadistica,  1886 :  Guatemala, 
Tip.  de  Pedro  Arenales,  8vo,,  pp.  40, 

[-- — - — ] — Dlrectorio  de  la  Ciudad  de  Guatemala,  compilado  por  la  Direcoioa 
General  de  Estadistica,  Afio  de  1886,  Guatemala,  Tip.  de  Pedro  Arenales,  8vo., 
pp.  296. 

Karr,  H.  W*  SetOE. — Shores  and  Alps  of  Alaska.  London,  Sampson,  Low  &  Co., 
1887 :  8vo*,  pp.  xiv.  and  248.     Price  165.     [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

In  the  paper  which  Mr.  Seton  Knrr  read  before  the  Society  (*  Proceedings,' 
1887,  p.  269),  he  described  the  leading  neaults  of  his  visit  to  Alaska,  so  far  as 
Mount  St.  Eliaa  is  concerned.  But  Mr.  Karr  saw  mucli  more  of  Alaska,  and  in 
this  volume  gives  a  considerable  amount  of  information  on  the  places  visited  by 
him,  and  the  condition  of  the  inhabitants  among  whom  he  sojourned.  Mr.  Karr 
crossed  Canada  by  the  Pacific  railway  in  Juno  1886,  proceeded  up  the  coast 
to  Bitka,  and  thence  in  company  with  Lieutenant  Schwatka  and  others  he 
ascended  Mount  St.  Eliaa  by  Yakatat  and  ley  Bay ;  this  attempt  he  describea 
in  this  volume,  and  in  the  paper  nbivo  referred  to.  After  leaving  St.  Elias, 
Mr.  Karr  proceotied  westwards  to  Kaiak  Island,  and  thence  by  the  delta  of  the 
Cupper  liver,  which  he  descriheit,  to  Nuchuk  Island.  While  waiting  here, 
Mr.  Karr  saw  a  good  dial  of  the  Cnpp*-r  Riverlnrlians,  and  has  much  to  say  about 
them.    After  having  made  up  his  mind  to  winter  at  Nuchuk,  Mr,  Karr  obtained 


KEW  GfiOGRAPmCJLL  PUBUCATIONS. 


161 


a  pMnge  in  October  m  the  tdiooner  KodiaJf  to  St.  Faul»  Ecdiak  Island,  und 
tiMDoe  to  San  Francisco,  after  about  four  moDths*  sojourn  in  Alaska.  Besides 
tba  large  map  rcfpmduced  from  the  '  ProceedmgSi*  there  laiaaiaU  gtticnd  map  of 
Alaska^  and  a  sketch-map  of  Mount  St  ELiaa.  The  iUufitimtioDs  are  of  the  cheap 
"  process  **  kind,  and  not  very  satisfactory. 
Xartm,  K.— Westindische  Skkxen.  Mit  22  Taleln  und  eiiker  Karte.  Leiden, 
E.  J.  BriU,  1887 :  royal  8vo.,  pp.  Tii.  and  186.     Price  16^    (Ihdau,) 

In  1884-6,  HeiT  Brill,  in  coiupany  with  several  ooUeagues,  undertook  a 
visit  to  the  Dntdi  West  Indies  for  tie  special  purpofie  of  studying  their 
geology^  The  present  publication  is  the  first  section  of  a  work  in  which  Herr 
Martin  will  describe  the  complete  results  of  his  travels.  The  present  part  is 
devoted  to  the  general  aspects  of  the  couutriee  and  peoples  visited  ;  the  sub^* 
quent  volume  will  deal  mainly  with  the  geology. 

Miimesota,  The  Geological   and  Natural   History  Survey  of.     The  Thirteenth 
Anuual  Report,  for  the  year  1884.     N.  H,  WiuchoU,  SUte  Geologist    St  Paul» 
The  Pioneer  Press  Co.,  1885 :  8vo.,  pp,  196,  plates, 
The  Fourteenth  Annual  Report,  for  the  year  1885.    St  Pan),  J,  W,  Cun- 
ningham &  Co,,  1886 :  8vo.,  pp.  353,  plates, 

[These  Re|K>rts  were  presented  by  N.  H,  Winchell,  State  Geologist] 
[Badfordi  Alfred.]— Jottings  on  the  West  indies  and  Panama.     Loudon,  pnnted 
by  W.  Wbiteley,  1886:  12mo.,  pp,  103.     [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

An  account  of  a  voyage  to  the  West  Indies  and  Cent  ml  America,  during 
which  the  author  visited  St*  Thonias,  Barbadces,  Grenada,  and  Trinidad  j 
Caracas,  Curasao,  Baranquilla,  Carthagena,  Colon,  PaoMna,  Greytown,  and  New 
Orleans.  Appended  are  a  few  remarks  on  Panama,  the  Caual,  CVilon,  tlie 
Nicaraguan  Canal,  the  Taking  of  Cartbagena,  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico* 

Eoberts,  Morley,— The  Western  Avemus,  or  Toil  and  Travel  in  Further  Kortb 

America.    London,  Smith,  Elder  &  Co*,  1887 ;  8vo.,  pp.  307.     Price  7#.  6d, 
Francis,  FraaciR  [jimrj^— Saddle  and   Mocassin*     London,   Chapman  &  Hall, 

1887  ;  8vo.,  pp.  xi.  and  322.  Price  12s, 
Coim,  WiUiam*— Cowboys  and  Colonels  i  Narrative  of  a  Journey  across  the  Plairi© 
and  over  the  Black  Hills  of  Dakota,  From  *  Dans  les  Montagues  Rocbeuses'  of 
Baron  E.  de  Mandat-Grancy,  with  additional  notes  not  oontained  in  the  original 
edition.  London,  Griffith,  Farran,  i&  Co.,  1887:  8vo.,pp.xi,and  352.  Price  10».  6rf. 
[All  presented  by  the  Publishers,] 

These  books  are  all  of  the  same  stamp,  and  cover  to  some  extent  tho  samo 
region.  The  first  tells  the  story  of  the  author's  adventures  over  the  Western 
States  and  in  the  Canadian  West  and  North-W€st»  mainly  in  search  of  work. 
Ho  gives  a  good  idea  of  the  life  which  such  men  have  to  lead  in  America,  and 
his  bciok  will  be  useful  to  those  who  contemplate  following  his  example.  There 
is  a  small  map  of  North  America,  showing  the  author's  tracks. 

The  second  volume  is  by  the  son  of  the  la  to  Francis  Francif«,  the  well- 
known  authority  on  angling.  His  frequent  visits  to  America  were  chiefly  for 
sportj  and  mainly  to  the  Yellowstone  region  and  New  Mexico,  especially  the 
Animas  Valley.  Several  chapters  also  deal  with  Northern  Mexico*  Mr.  Fmncis 
gives  a  graphic  aooount  of  his  adventures  and  of  his  life  among  tho  hunters  and 
cowboys  of  the  West  At  the- same  time  he  describes  with  mucli  clear neHH  the 
character  of  the  various  regions  in  which  he  travelled,  though  his  book  contains 
no  map,  and  there  is  a  great  lack  of  dates. 

Like  Mr.  Francis's  volume,  Mr.  Conn  a  adapted  translation  from  Man  da  t- 
Grancy's  book  ia  spariuf^  in  dates;  indeed,  we  have  not  discoverod  one,  so  fur  aa 
the  year  is  concerned,  though  the  day  of  the  month  is  ostentatiously  placed 
here  and  there,  diary  fashion,  at  the  bead  of  sections.  From  internal  ovldeoco 
the  Baron's  journey  seema  to  have  been  made  in  1882.  Ho  describes  in  very 
readable  fashion  his  experiences  amon^  miners  and  ranchers,  and  gives  a  gootl 
idea  of  that  phase  of  Efe  in  the  *'  wild  West  '*  which  is  rapidly  passing  away. 


462 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS, 


GENERAL, 

Belooli,  [Dr.]  JuHes. — ^Die  BevOlkeruDg  der  Griechiscb^Romiaclieii  Welt.  Leip- 
zig, Duncber  &  Humblot,  1886;  8vo.,  pp.  xvL  and  520,  Price  lis,  {Wtlliams 
and  Nor^ate.) 

This  is  an  atterapfc  to  estimate  tlie  population  of  tlie  ancient  Greek  and 
Boman  world  at  different  perio«is  by  a  scientific  investigation  of  the  scanty  and 
uncertain  material  which  has  come  down  to  ti8.  The  author  points  ont  that 
estimates  have  frequently  l>een  made  of  the  populations  of  medireval  citiea  and 
small  areas  in  the  ancient  world,  but  the  tas^  haa  never  before  been  undertaken 
for  great  areas  and  extended  periods.  The  author  is  aware  that  hia  results  can 
only  he  approximative,  and  that  oonsiderable  modifications  in  the  details  might 
reasonably  be  made  by  other  inqnireri.  His  estimates  as  a  whole,  however,  ho 
thinks  should  be  near  the  truth.  In  his  first  chapter  tbe  author  deals  with 
sources  of  information — birth-regigteri!,  mortality  lists,  certificates  of  citizenship, 
military  lists,  censuses;  methods  of  transmiltiug  fltatifitics  j  military  service; 
estimates  of  areas ;  production  and  consumption  of  grain ;  discussion  of  modem 
investigations.  The  second  chapter  deals  with  population  according  to  sex  and 
age ;  while  succeeding  chapters  treat  in  detail  of  Attica,  the  Peloponne8u«,  Central 
and  Norihem  Greece^  the  Hellenic  East,  Sicily  and  Greater  Greece,  the  Boman 
CenstiB,  Italy,  the  Latin  West,  the  Town  Population.  The  last  chapter  traces 
the  history  and  progress  of  population  in  the  ancient  world,  Dr,  Beloch 
appends  two  tables,  giving  the  area  and  population  of  Greece  B.C.  432,  and  of 
the  Roman  World  at  the  death  of  Angustua.  The  area  of  Greece  lie  estimates 
at  40,360  square  miles,  and  population  at  3,051,OCX),  of  whom  1,005,000  were 
fllavea  and  bondsmen  ;  this  is  in  the  proportion  of  75  per  square  mile.  The 
density  was  higbeat  in  Central  Greece,  where  it  was  over  160  per  square  mile; 
in  Attica  Dr.  Belooh  makes  the  denaity  to  have  been  about  260  per  square  mile. 
The  total  area  of  the  Roman  Empire  at  the  death  of  Augustus  he  gives  aa 
1,289,440  square  miles,  and  the  population  54  millions,  or  a  density  of  42  per 
square  mile.  Tbe  area  of  Roman  Europe  at  that  date  wag,  according  to  Dr. 
Beloch,  801,420  square  miles,  and  the  population  23,000,000,  or  about  26-7 
per  square  mile,  the  greatest  density  being  in  Italy,  where  it  was  about  64  per 
square  mile.  The  area  of  Roman  Asia  was  256,960  square  miles,  and  popula- 
tion 19,500,000,  or  76  per  square  mile,  the  greatest  density  being  in  Syria, 
whflfe  it  was  nearly  140  per  square  mile.  The  area  of  Roman  Africa  is  given 
as  171,060  square  miles,  and  population  11,500,000,  or  a  density  of  67  per 
square  mile  ;  tbe  area  of  Egypt  being  10,850  square  miles,  and  population 
5  millioDR,  or  450  per  square  mile,  a  little  less  than  the  average  density  of 
England  at  the  present  day.  Of  course,  aa  Dn  Beloch  admits,  these  figures 
must  be  taken  as  only  roughly  approximate, 

[India.] — Report  to  the' Secretary  of  State  for  India  in  Council  on  the  Records 
of  the  India  OGSce.  By  Frederic  Charles  Danvers.  Yol  L  Part  I.  Records 
relating  to  Agencies,  Factories,  and  Settlements  not  now  under  the  Administration 
of  the  Government  of  India.  London,  printed  by  Eyre  and  Spottiswoode :  8vo., 
pp.  185)  and  xxxvii.     [Presented  by  the  Secretary  of  State  for  India,] 

Thie  is  the  first  of  what  promises  to  be  a  valuable  series  of  reiMjrts.  So 
far  aa  the  early  history  and  geography  of  the  East  are  concerned,  the  preaent 
instalment  deals  with  Java,  Sumatra,  Borneo,  the  Straits  Settlement,  St. 
Helena,  and  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  There  is  also  a  section  relating  to 
the  French  in  India,  and  a  list  and  location  of  places  referred  to  in  the 
Report,  with  maps  of  Kalaisia,  the  Cape,  St,  Helena,  and  Mauritius,  Among 
the  other  valuable  features  of  the  volume  are  lists  of  books  and  publications 
relating  to  the  various  regions  dealt  with,  and  classifications  of  the  records 
referring  to  them* 


(    «3    ) 


NEW  MAPS. 

(By  J.  CoLSSy  Jfop  OaraUft  b^qj&S) 

EUROPE. 

Dentiehen  Seiehei.— Kane  des .    SoJe  1 :  1400,000  or  1*3  geognp^hical 

miles  to  an  inch.  Sheets :  152.  XeQbnDdenbors:.  588.  Bastatt.  Heraoagepeben 
vou  der  kartogr.  ^Abdteilnng  dcr  KonigL  Fkcuaa.  Lsndea-Anfnahine  1S87. 
PtioeU.6cf.eadL    (Z>iaaaf.) 

Deiltielllandl. — ^Uebenichtskarta  der  Eise&bahnen  beaibeitet  im  Beid»- 

Eiaenbahn-Amt.  Scale  1 :  IfiOOfiOO  or  13*6  geozraphicil  nuies  to  an  inch. 
Berlin,  4  sheets.    Price  5s.    (DWaii.) 

DeutiehrFruizdlliehe  GreilzLinder  mit  genaoer  Einzekhnnng  der  franaosiachen 
Befestignnzs-Anlagen.  Scale  1 :  403,000  or  5*5  jzeographical  miles  to  an  inch. 
YerkleineTte  Auszabe  der  AIgermisaeo''£cbeQ  Spezialkarte  toq  Elsaas-Lotiiringefi 
(l:200,0O:»).  Metz,  1SS7.  Kartographische  Terlagansta^t  roa  Geoi^  Lang. 
Price  Is.  (kL    {DuUiu.) 

Pranee-— Carie-itiDeraiie  dei  Toies  naTigablea  de  la  ,  d'aptis  le  Guide  officid 
de  la  DarigatioQ  intenecre.    ParU,  Bandiy  et  Cie.    (Jhdam^ 

Cane  de ^  draaee  par  le  Senrice  Tidiial  par  ordre  de  M.  le  M inistie  de 

rint^ear.  Scale  1:100,000  or  1*3  geograi^iical  miles  to  an  indi.  Pans, 
HachetteetGe.,  1887.  SheeU:  VI.— 13,  Paimp..l;  VL— IT,  Plurizner;  VL— 
18,  Tamies;  TIL— 17,  Roermel;  XIIL— 27,  Biantlime;  XVI.— I,  Ste.  Sjnibe; 
XVI.— 6,  St.  Omer;  XVI.— 7,  Su  Pol;  XVU.— 8,  Doollcns;  XVin.— 17, 
Cbiteanrenard ;  XVIU.— 18,  St.  Farseau ;  XXIV.-36,  Touloo,  Price  7'i.  each 
sheet.     [Dtdau.) 

Ttmlia-— Cana  d' ,  da  Carlo  Cerri.    Milano,  1867.     Scale  1 :  eO4,000  or  11 -8 

geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    8  sheets.     Price  8s.    (Dttlam,) 

Leipzig.— Pl^zi  von ,  vcn  G.  HetzeL    Scale  1 :  7000  or  10*4  indies  to  a 

geogjajjLical  n-ile.     Leipzig,  Heinrichs.     Price  Is.    (Z)ii/aif.) 

Meeklemboiirg-Schweriii  et  Strelitz.— Carte  du ,  par  T.  A.  Halte-Bnm. 

Paris,  J.  Eoufi.  ct  Cic.    (Dulau.) 

■ittel-Enropa^ — ^Topographische  Spezial-karte  ▼on  ,  herausgegeben  Ton  der 

kartograpLiscLe  Abtbeilun?  der  k.  prenss.  Landesanfoahme.  Scale  1 :  200,000 
or  2' 7  geograi'Lical  miles  to  an  incb.  Xo.  352,  Boulogne.  380,  St.  Valefj-en- 
Camp.  409,  Bajenz.  411,  Aumale.  441,  Bonen.  532,  Montarps.  562,  Giec 
Berlin,  EiseLscLsiiit.     Price  It.  each.    (Dulau.) 

Boftoek*  Enrirons  de ,  par  V.  A.  Malte-Bmn.    Paris,  J.  Eonfl.  e:  Ge.  fDulam.) 

BnMland.  —  General-  end  Strassenkarte  von  West  and  den  angrmaeoden 

Landem  bU  AVien  end  Butiafcst,  mit  beaooderer  Beriicksichtijun^  der  BaeD- 
bahnen  nnd  mil  Angabe  ailer  ruasischen  Stationen.  Bearbeitet  von  G.  Freytaj;. 
Scale  1 :  Ij^O-'j/XO  or  20*4  ;:ecf2Taphical  miles  to  an  incb.  Eigenthnm  u.  Vcria^ 
von  Artaria  &  Co.  in  W:en,  1687.    Price  2».  6d.    (Dulau.) 

Busalailds.— Die  ELsenlabnen (Jjca  Cheraics  de  fer  de  la  Rossie  d'Earo^K.) 

Scale   1 :  0,OC»:',000  or  82-2  geographical  miles  to  an  incb.     Aisgabe  vt.<i  1SS7. 
Verlas  von  Artaria  4c  Co.  in  Wien.     Price  Is.  Sd.    CDuiau.) 
No.  VIL— July  18&7.:  2  l 


464 


NEW  MAPS. 


ORDNANCE  SUHVEY  MAPS, 
rubllcallotii  Iseued  during  the  moalb  of  Haj  leaT. 
l-lnch— ^GeiMTAl  Maps  :— 

Ij^oljLKU  anp  Walk^  :  New  Series.    Xoa.  90,  H^  338, 3ftl,  358  («titUnO>  1'-  e*<^li' 
Scotland:  126(tiUtUu4^),  U.  9<i. 
lRKLAxt>:  13&  (bill*)*  li. 

e-inoll— County  Map*:— 

Kkolano  axlj  Walo:  Berkshlfo  ;  'J;  2f.  ed.  Breciknookebire  r  i&S.E,,  2i  N,E.,  17  S.W, 
aos.W.;  1*.  cftdi.  CanLbridireshire :  l  H.E^  4  S.fcl*  ti  K.K. ;  u.  ench.  Cardifransliire: 
4  N.H,,  T  N.W.i  If.  wicli.  CarmartlieEitMr© :  is  8.W.;  U.  Cornwall:  &&  S.W,;  n. 
Deyonshire:  65  N,W.,  n&  N.W.,  S,E.;  it.  <*eh.  Dorsetshire:  i*i  S.W.  juid  s,K.  mi  muo 
*hm;  U.  Herefordshire:  44  N>-;  i*.  LincolnBliire:  U  y.W..  2t  N,K..  SAW.  4e  N>:., 
146  N.W,»  N,E.;  If,  each.  MerionetliaMie :  H  RH.  Ti  N^W.^  it,  eadi.  Monmouth- 
shire: 3;  2s.  Gd.  Montromeryehire :  lo  SE.,  39  N.E.;  it.  cAcb,  Norfolk:  <n  S>-» 
42  S.E.,  6i  S,E,,  Ifl  N.W.,  S.E.|  It.  each.  Oxfordahire :  33,  rontainSng  Oxford,  2J.  Ctt 
Somersetshire:  <9  S.E..  so  aE,,  $7  N.E, ;  U.  facb.  StaffordaMre :  7l  N.E.;  it. 
"Warwick Bhire;  fl  N*W.,  S.W^  S.E.J  u,  eiich.  Wiltahire :  li^i  2#.  ftcf.  Worcestor- 
shlre:  -*  NX;  i*. 

g5-inoh— Paiifib  Wipa:— 

Emolakd  A^*IJ  Walls z  Brecknockshire:  XL.  &.  lO,  13.  M,  XLVJ.  6,  9,  3j.  cAcb.  Cftm- 
bridg-eshire :  XU.  «»  4*.;  LVJL  4.  3;t, ;  LVfE  r,  4*.;  LVIt.  w,  LVllE  12,  l&,  LXL  9,  3f.  rwib. 
CftrmarthejiBhire :  XXXI V.  i,  4.  7,  h.  i  i,  u,  XIJI.  8,  oi.  <?iich.     Bevonehire :  XXIX.  :t, 

3.  4,  7,  3*.  PAcb  ;  XXIX.  12,  4j.  ;  XLI.  1.  2,  CXIE  15.  CXUI.  7.  10.  CXVllL  3,  3s.  eadi ;  CX.W,  lb, 
6f.;  CXXXV.  a,  12,  3#.  each.  Gioucesterahire  :  Are*  Books:  Do«idmgton,  Cbarllon  Klng»^ 
Coberley,  Groat  Sburdln^j^U^D,  LeclcbAmpton,  lYeiftburi%  LMcImrIoh,  Up  Hrttbcrley,  If,  eacb. 
Herefordshire  :  Vlli:  u,  XII L  3.  a.  XIV.  11.  13.  is.  XVUh  16.  le,  XXL  16.  af.trnch;  XXH.  I. 
XX VH.  1,  4f.  *^Acli;  XW'IE  4,  7;  XXVIU.  a.  6,  7.  XXXI V.  fi,  13,  16,  XXXV".  7»  ?►,  3*.  eacb, 
IjeioesterBhire :  XXXl.  4,  3f.  LincolnBhire :  V.  13.  vr,  is.  le,  XVIO.  9.  XIX.  i,  2» «.  7, 
a,  »,  U,  13,  14.  3*.  **cl» ;  XIX,  10,  &f.;  XX.  IJ.  Ifi,  XXVIE  3»  XXVIIl.  1.  3,  4,  B,  7,  8«  tP.Bjr.cAch  j 
XXVJII.  10,4*,;  XXVIU.  12,  14.  IMC,  XXXVILQ,  «.  14,  1&.  3f.  eAck ;  XUL  ».  fif.;  XLV.  3,  4, 
fi.  i^.  LIU.  4, 15.  LXI.  1(«,  12,  Kt.  LXIL  4.  7.  !*.  9,  :u.  each;  LXJI.  10,  4f.;  LXIE  13.  14, 16.  3f.  CAcb ; 

CLIE  n,  7,  **.  «^li.  Montiromerrs^i^e ;  IV-  3,  *,  ^*  n.  12.  is,  V,  n»  IX.  2, 3.  3f.  fatih;  JX* 
12,  XL  11,  4f.  eAchj  X11L3,  t»,  13,  3f.  fAtht  XIIL  14.  4f, ;  XIV.  9,  XV!,  U.  XXI.  1,  3f.  eacb; 
XXL  3.  it.;  XXL  fi,  3j, ;  XXIIL  12,  U.x  XXVIL  12,  15,  XXXiV.  3.  7,  9,  LI.  1(J»3*,  cacIi.  Area 
Book:  Cburch  Stoke,  2«.  6d.  Norfolk  :  l\  .  H.  16,  at.  i^atb  ;  VII.  T,  if. ;  ViL  16,  3f,  j  VI IL  2, 
il.;  VllL  7,  ft,  10, 11»  15,  le.  3Jt.  fAcb ;  1X3.  4.  4f,  ^Acb;  IX.  H,  lU.  11,  13.  16,  X.  3,  4  and  &  {on  i»ne 
Phi?et).  12,  16^  3f.  ejicb.  Area  IkKiky :  Korlbwold,  Sioke  Eerry,  Werebam,  Wreltoii.  Jf,  CAch. 
Northamptonshire:  "L  2.  7,  4i.  racIj  ;  XLV,  i»,  n*.  ad.  Area  Book:  HartUnefton^,  ii. 
Nottinghamshire:  VIE  ^.  as.  Butland:  IX.s,3f,  Somera et shire :  UiEia,  3f.i 
LXIL  JO.  6^.;  LXXtTL  I.  4f.;  LXXT1L2,  dt..  LXXUL  4.5.  4f.  eacb;  LXXIIL  <&,  a#. ;  LXXQl.  «» 
H,  10,  41.  eacb;  LXXIIL  11.  12.  a«.  each;  LXXIIL  14,  4*.;  LXXIIL  16.  3f . ;  LXXIfL  16.  4*.; 
LXXV.  a,  3,  4.  3*.  eocb  ;  LXXV.  0,  4f. ;  LXXV,  7.  a,  10,  11,  13.  3i.  tacb  ;  LXXV.  14,  4f, ;  LXXV. 
16,  3f,;  LXXXUL  15,  4f.;  LXXXIX.  1,  3f.  Area  Book:  Su  CaE,berlnp.  U.  Staffordahire  : 
LXIL  13.  3*.  Suffolk  i  LXX.  7,  4J.  Area  Btwks:  l-^rl  istonbain.  GorteiitOD,  li.  tacb.  War- 
Wlckahlre  :  XXXV.  5.  XXXVIL  3,  3f.  earh;  XXXVU.  4,  4».;  XXXVIL  3,  6,  7,  10, 12.  15.  16. 
XXXVIIL  L3»3f,  eacb;  XXX VIU.  5,  41.;  XXXVIIL  7,  8,  p,  10,  11.  12,  14.  15.  XXXIX.  1.  4,  Oi. 
e«b;  XXXLX,  6.  4*  ;  XXXIX.  C,  7.  L.  U,  15.  Xf.  ^acU;  LIIL  12.  4*.  WOtBhire  :  XXXL  12.  3f.  j 
XXXIL  13,  4f.;  XXXV.  16,  XXXVL  10,  3f;  eacb;  XXXVIIL  4.  15,  4a.  each;  XLIV,  6.  3*.;  XLIV. 
8,  6*.;   XLIV.  10,  14.  3f.  tAch;  XLV.  3, 4f. ;   XLV.  11,  XLVIL  2,  »,  12, 13,  XLVUL  2.  6.  LIE  2,  3, 

4,  6,  7,  H,  9, 13,  3f.  cacb  ;  LIE.  14,  if.;  LiL  16,  LIV.  3, 3f,  eacb,  Worcesterahlre :  XLIV.  U, 
15,3f.  eacb;  LL  12, 4f. 

Town  Plan*— lo-f«*t  ecale  .•— 

ENGLAND  AND  ViTALKa :  \Vcit  Bromwicfa,  LXVIil.  14 j,  fi  i  2f. 

{Stanford,  AgertL} 

AMERICA, 

(Juayaquil  (Ecuador).— Plaoo  de  - — ,  por  Dr.  Theodoro  Wolf.  1887.    Scale 
1 :  4800  or  15 "2  inches  to  a  geographical  mile.     Price  12*.    {Ihdau,) 

Niearagua-KanaleB* — Specialkarte  des  .     Nach  der  Earte  der  Vem.  Stti. 

Vt^rniessonga- Expedition  unter  A.  G.  Menocal,  u.s.k,  1885.  Scale  1:G00,(XX)  or 
8 '  1  geog raph ical  m iles  to  an  i ncti ,  W  i th  u  Section .  Petermann's  *  G eographiscl i o 
Mitteilimgen/  Jahrgang  1887,  Tafel  8.    Goth  a,  Justus  Perthes,  1887.   (Dulau.) 

Terre  de  feu.— Carte  ethnograpliiqiie  de  Farchipel  de  la ,    Scab  1 : 3,000,000 

or  41 '  6  geographical  milea  to  an  inch.     Parip,  Gauthier-Villara*     (Dulau,) 

Vancouver    Island* — Die  Indianersliimme   von  ,  iin<i  an  der   Kilate  von 

Britisch-Colnmhia.  Nacli  eigenen  Forachungen  gezeichnet  von  Dr,  Franz  Boas. 
Scale  1  ;  2,000,000  or  27  geographical  miles  to  au  inch.  Petermann's  *  Geogra- 
pliificbe  MitteilungeD,*  Jahrgang  1887,  Tafel  7.     Gotha,  Justus  Perthes,  1887. 


1 


NEW  HAPS.  465 

CHARTS. 

Admiralty. — Charts    and   Plans   published    by  the    Hydrographic  Department, 
Admiral ty,  in  March  and  April  1887. 
Xo.  Inches. 

240        m       =         14*0      England,    south     coast,    Plymouth:  —  Hamoaze. 

2.9.  Od. 
954        m       =  6*8      Ireland,   west  coast  :—Achill   sound,    northern    and 

southern  entrances.     Is.  Gd, 
2206        m       =         2-89      Black  sea :— Odessa  bay.     28,  ed. 
162        m       =         2 '27      Black  sea: — Novorossisk  bay  (Soujak).    Iff. 
603        m       -         0*78      Black  sea:— Cape    Fontana   to   Tendra   Peninsula, 

including  Odessa  and    entrance  to  Kherson  bay. 
2ff.  Gd, 
964        m       =        1*73      Black  sea :— Cape  Loukoul  to  Balaklava  bay,  includ- 
ing Sevastopol  harbour.     2ff.  Qd. 
608        m       =         0*8       Africa,  west  coast : — River  Gambia  entrance.    2s, 
2126        m       =         3'1       New  Guinea,  south  coast :— Port  Moresby.     Is.  Gd, 
968        m       1=         2*9       South  Pacific,  Uea  or  Wallis   islands: — Mua   and 

Mata  Utui  anchorages.    Is,  Gd. 
2221        Plans  of  ports  in  Black  sea : — New  plan,  Ghelendjik. 
207        Albemarle  sound  to  Cape  Fear : — Plans  added,  Hatteras  inlet,  Ocracoke 
inlet. 
1328        Anchorages  in  Chonos  archipelago : — New  plan.  Port  Lagunas. 
1810        River  Zambesi  to  Mozambique  harbour : — Plan  added,  Infusse  bar  (river 
Muite). 
50        Diu  head  to  (Joapnath  point ; — ^Plan  added,  Mandwa  bay. 
2576        Sulu  archipelago : — Plan  added,  northern  entrance  of  the  channel  between 

Lapac  and  Siassi  islands. 
2578  Sulu  sea,  eastern  part : — ^plan  added,  Cuyo  Island  anchorage. 
970  Anchorages  in  Philippine  islands : — ^New  plan,  San  Jacinto. 
2432  TTumen  Ula  to  Strelok  bay :— New  plan.  Expedition  and  Novgorod  bays. 
2532  Ninety  miles  beach  to  Otago  : — Plan  added,  Oamaru  harbour. 
2169  Midway  island : — Plans  added.  Pearl  or  Hermes  reef.    Ocean  island. 
(J.  D.  Potter^  Agent) 

CHABTS  CANCELLED. 

No.                                                                                                   Cancelled  by  Ko. 

2206  Odessa  Bay New  plan,  Odessa  bay 2206 

2221  Plan  of  Soujak  bay  on  this  sheet      New  plan,  Novorossisk  bay         ..  162 

228  BellHik  river  to  cape  Khersonese  /  ^V",  P^*^  ^P*  ^"^"'^^  **»  ^*^'     „,, 

\      klavabay 964 

2862  Ocracoke  inlet    Hattenu.  inlet     {  ^"^  ^'  Ocracoke  inlet.   Hatte-  ' 

^      ra8mlet,on        267 

008  River  Gambia,  Sheet  1     ..      ..       New  plan,  Kiver  Gambia  entrance        608 

212C  Port  Moresby  and   Fairfax         I  New  plan.  Port  Moresby      ..     ..     2126 
harbour ) 

noPT  -ni       r  All.     1-          xf     1     *    i  Now  plan,  Mua  and  Mata  Utui 
987  Plan  of  Allier  bay  on  this  sheet   <            5  o^o 

•^  (       anchorages 968 

529  Plan  of  Pemambuco  on  this  chart. 

CHARTS  THAT  HAVE  RECEIVED  IMPORTANT  CORREOTIONa 

No.  1828.  England,  east  coast :— The  Downs.  2256.  Baltic,  Gulf  of  Riga:— Dvina 
river,  from  the  roadstead  to  the  town  of  Riga.  1238.  South  Atlantic  Ocean  :— 
South  Shetland  and  South  Orkney  islands.    903.  North  America,  cast  coast : — 


46G 


NEW  MAPS. 


Gotildsborough  \nj  to  Little  Spoon  island.  2893,  Gulf  of  Mexico  ;— Cedar  cays 
and  approaches.  1008.  Gulf  of  Mcxic-o  i — Lower  Matacumbe  cay  to  Boca  Graodc 
cay.  2145.  Central  America,  west  cc:ist :— Gulf  of  Nicoya  to  cape  Elena.  2146, 
Central  America,  west  coast : — Cape  Eleua  to  cape  Desolado.  599.  Africa,  west 
coast : — Cape  Verde  to  cape  Roxo,  643.  Africa,  south  coast : — ^Port  Xatal.  21Ga. 
Bay  of  Bengal,  Memui  arcliipelago : — Iron  island  to  Sayer  island.  2577,  PbiUp- 
pine  islands  :^St.  Bernardino  strait  and  adjacent  islands.  1962.  Cliiaap  south 
coast : — Houg  Kong  to  Clielani*  point.  1963.  China,  south  coast : — Chelan g  point 
toChauanbay.  G5-1.  Japan  i — Bungo  channel,  2759a,  Australia,  northern  portion. 
1063,  Australia,  sontb  coast :— WestLrn  approach  to  BaM  strait,  1695b.  Australia, 
south  coast : — Baas  strsiit,  ivt^stem  part.  27G3.  Australia,  north-east ; — Coral  sea 
and  Great  Barrier  reefs,  sheet  h  2764,  Australia,  north-east  coast  :^— Coral  sea 
and  Great  Barrier  reefs,  sheet  2,  2350,  Australia,  north-east  coast : — Double  point 
to  cape  Tribulation.  2614,  New  Zeaknd^  North  iislaad : — Klapara  harbour, 
(J.  D,  Potter,  AgenL) 
TTnited  States  Charts.— No,  1027.  Juauilk  Bay,  West  Coa^t  of  Costa  Rica, 
Central  America.  1887.  Price  Is,  3rf.— 1036.  El  Kincon  Harbor  (Gulf  of  Duloe) 
west  coast  of  Costa  Rica.  Price  Is,  3d— Pilot  Chart  of  the  North  Atlantic  Ocean. 
May  and  Jane  14387,  Published  at  the  Hydrographic  Office,  Navy  Department, 
Washington,  D.G.  J,  R,  Bartlett,  Commander  U.8.N.,  Ilydrographer  to  the 
Bureau  of  Navigation. 

ATLASES. 

Bartholomew,  J.-^Pockct  Atlas  of  England  and  Wales,  by  J,  Bartholomew,  f.b.q.s. 

With  Inilex  and  Geographical  Statistical  Notes, 
Pocket  Atlas  of  Scotland,  by  J.  Bartholomew^  F.n.G.8.     With  iDdcx  and 

Geographical   Statistical   Notes,      London,  John   Walker  &  Co,,  1887.      Price 

Is,  each. 

These  arc  two  very  handy  little  atlases;  tho  nm]«,  which  are  the  work  of 
Mr.  Barthokimew,  are  drawn  on  various  scales,  the  districts  most  visited  by 
tourists  and  the  environs  of  towns  beinj;  drawn  on  a  mucli  larger  scale  than 
those  which  are  less  frequented.  Each  contains  an  index,  constructed, 
however,  on  different  plans,  that  for  England  and  Wales  givinj:  the 
latitude  and  longitude  of  each  'f'hice,  while  in  that  of  Scotland  the  scheme 
followed  of  indicating  positions  by  letters  is  identical  with  that  adopted  in 
Johnston's  Royal  Atlas.  The  geographical  and  statistical  notes  which  cacli  of 
thes«  little  atlases  contains  apj)«ar  to  have  been  compiled  with  care  from  the 
best  sources, 

Belgiliue. — ^Atlas  des  villes  de  la  — *,  au  XVI^  Siecle,  Cent  jilans  dii  gdogra]^hc 
Jacques  de  Be  venter,  exiksnt^  sur  lea  ordres  de  Charles  Quint  etde  Philipixs  IL, 
reproduits  en  fac-simil6  chromogrnphique  ^mr  rinslitut  national  de  gdographie. 

*  Bruxelles,  Livs,  1  to  6,    Price  3/,     {Dnlau.) 

Fhtlip,  G.,  &  Son. — Handy-volume  Atlas  of  the  World.  A  scries  of  C4  plates, 
containing  110  maps  and  plans*  With  complete  Index  and  Statistical  Notes.  By 
J.  Franoon  WilUams,  f.e.g.s.  George  Philip  &  Son,  Liverpool  and  London, 
1887. 

This  atlas  is  so  small  in  size  that  the  maps  of  necessity  contain  bnfc  few 
names  of  places;  such,  however,  as  have  been  given  are  well  chikscn,  and  all  the 
principal  physical  features,  t-ogether  with  the  political  boundaries,  are  as  correctly 
laid  down  as  the  scale  of  the  maps  permits ;  it  also  contains  a  large  amount  of 
statistical  information,  and  as  it  is  furnished  with  a  copiuus  index,  is  likely  to 
be  useful  as  a  gazetteer  to  those  who  do  not  possess  larger  attd  more  detailed 
works  of  the  same  sort. 


5 

t 

ti 
h 
a 

IS 


PROCEEDINGS 

OP  THB 

ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  RECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


On  the  Society  8  Expedition  to  the  NarrnUi  Hills,  East  Africa. 
By  J.  T.  Last,  Commander  of  the  Expedition. 

(Read  at  the  Evening  Meeting,  Jane  27th,  1887.) 

I  HAVE  the  hononr  to  lay  before  yon  this  evening  an  acconnt  of  some 
of  the  chief  points  of  interest  connected  with  the  expedition  into  South- 
east Africa,  which  the  Society  entrusted  to  my  charge,  reserving  my 
fall  report,  with  scientific  details  and  map,  for  a  future  occasion.  The 
principal  objects  of  the  expedition  were  to  fix  the  position  of  the  oonfluenoe 
of  the  rivers  Lugenda  and  Buvuma,  and  to  study  their  resources  for  the 
advancement  of  commercial  enterprise.  Thence  I  was  to  proceed  to  and 
examine  the  mountainous  districts  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Namuli  Peaks 
(the  remarkable  hills  brought  to  our  notice  by  Consul  O'Neill,  and  said  to 
be  snow-capped),  fix  the  chief  points  of  interest,  and  report  upon  the 
country,  after  which  the  river  Lukugu  was  to  be  traced  from  its  source 
to  the  coast  in  order  to  learn  how  far  it  could  be  used  in  the  interests  of 
civilisation  and  commerce. 

On  the  2nd  of  September,  1885, 1  embarked  on  board  the  P.  &  O. 
steamship  Ancona  for  Aden,  continuing  thence  by  the  British  India 
Steam  Navigation  ship  Abyssinia  for  Zanzibar.  On  arriving  at  Zanzibar 
I  found  the  ready  help  and  kindness  of  Sir  John  Kirk  most  useful. 
Through  him  I  was  able  to  make  up  my  caravan  very  quickly,  and  he 
also  obtained  for  me,  from  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar,  letters  to  the  chiefs 
on  the  coast  and  inland,  which  I  found  very  useful. 

Having  finished  my  preparations  in  Zanzibar,  I  hired  a  native 
dhow,  embarked  vdth  my  men  and  goods,  and  after  fifteen  days'  sailing 
amongst  the  beautiful  coral  islands  off  the  East  African  coast,  arrived  at 
Lindi  on  the  22nd  October,  whence,  after  making  my  final  preparations, 
I  started  inland  on  the  28th  October.  Our  first  object  was  to  reach 
Ngomano,  the  district  lying  about  the  confluence  of  the  Lugenda  with 
the  Ruvuma.  The  best  road  to  this  place  was  by  way  of  Newala,  a 
station  of  the  Universities'  Mission.     On  arrival  at  this  place  I  was 

No.  VIII.— Aug.  1887.]  2  m 


468 


ON  THE  SOCIETY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


most  kindly  and  haspitaHy  welcomed  by  the  Eqf.  Cliauncy  Maples, 
Bishop  Smjthies,  and  other  members  of  the  Mission,  After  staying  two 
days  at  this  place,  we  retjumed  our  joiimej,  and  on  the  second  day 
reached  the  left  bank  of  the  Rnvnma.  Wo  then  ascended  by  its  left  bank 
to  within  15  miles  of  its  confluence,  croBsed  oTer  to  the  right  bank,  and 
reached  Ngoinano  at  the  junction  of  the  rivers  on  the  15th  November. 
We  fttayed  here  six  days,  making  observations  to  fix  the  position  of 
this  important  point,  the  resulta  of  which  give  long.  38"^  01'  55''  E. 
andlat  11^  25' 25"  S. 

All  the  country  along  tho  Ruvuma,  from  near  Kewala  to  Kgomano, 
was  formerly  well  populated,  as  the  aites  of  the  old  villages  show,  but 
now  there  is  not  a  house  to  be  seen,  the  district  having  been  overrun  by 
the  Makwangwara  and  other  marauding  tribes,  and  is  now  become  the 
home  of  a  great  variety  of  game*  One  night  when  camped  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Ruvuma,  a  pair  of  lions  made  an  attack  on  one  of  the  grass 
huts  in  which  our  people  were  sleeping,  and  carried  off  a  man.  The  men 
shouting  and  firing  their  gunscaneed  iho  lion  to  drop  his  pre^^  who  was 
afterwards  broaght  into  camp.  The  poor  fellow  was  very  ranch  braised 
and  clawed  about  the  neck  and  shonldere.  After  I  dressed  his  wonnds, 
I  had  to  leave  him  on  one  of  tho  islands  inhabited  by  the  Matjimbwi 
people.  To  these  I  gave  a  present  of  cloth  on  the  consideration  that  they 
should  take  eare  of  the  man  till  his  recovery.  This  they  promised  to  do, 
and  I  afterwards  learnt  that  be  fully  recovered.  There  are  several 
small  islands  in  the  Ruvuma  inhabited  by  the  Matambwi,  These  are 
only  occupied  during  tho  dry  season ;  in  the  rains  they  are  covered  by 
the  waters  of  the  Ruvuma,  and  the  people  go  and  live  in  temporary 
villages  on  the  right  bank. 

From  Ngoraano  we  proceeded  up  the  valley  of  the  Lugenda»  crossing 
from  «ide  to  side,  by  fords  or  by  canoes,  as  the  windings  of  the  river 
and  road  compelled  us,  until  we  reached  the  three  lakes,  Amaramba, 
Chintttj  and  Shirwa.  We  passed  along  tho  eastern  shores  of  these,  and 
then  crossed  over  the  open  forest  by  way  of  Kiladzulu  HiU  to  Blantj^e, 
which  we  reached  on  January  13th»  1886,  Whilst  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  lakes  I  had  an  attack  of  dysentery  and  fever,  which  compelled 
mo  to  be  carried  the  last  five  or  six  days  of  ray  journey.  On  reaching 
Blantyre  I  was  received  with  the  most  kindly  welcome  by  Consul  Hawes, 
wlio  pot  himself  to  no  inconsiderable  trouble  to  make  me  as  comfortable 
as  possil)le. 

The  journey  up  the  valley  of  the  Lngenda  was,  with  the  exception 
of  a  break  here  and  there,  through  a  long  »tring  of  gardens.  Some 
parts  of  the  country  are  very  fertile,  and  would  grow  European  vegetables 
well,  whilst  there  is  but  little  that  is  not  well  adapted  for  growing  native 
grain.  The  common  cereals  of  tho  country  are  maize,  millet,  and  beans, 
besides  which,  ground-nuts,  ptitatoe»,  pumpkins,  and  other  vegetables 
are  grown,  also  a  little  rice  in   places.     The  inhabitants  are  chiefly 


NAMULI  HILLS,  EAST  AFRICA.  469 

Yaos,  whose  principal  chiefs  are  Mtarika,  Nyangwali,  Kandnlu,  Msuza, 
and  ChipilL  All  the  minor  chiefs  are  more  or  less  subject  to  these. 
The  coast  Mahommedans  have  been  for  many  years  passing  up  and  down 
this  valley,  but  their  influence  seems  to  have  little  power  to  induce  the 
natives  either  to  embrace •Mahommedanism  or  to  give  up  some  of  their 
most  heathenish  practices.  Cannibalism  is  but  little  practised  by  the 
Yaos,  still  there  are  some  of  the  great  chiefs,  as  Mtarika  and  Nyangwali, 
who  indulge  in  such  orgies.  I  have  been  frequently  told  by  Yao  men, 
who  are  well  acquainted  with  the  habits  of  the  chiefs,  that  feasts  of 
human  flesh  are  frequently  made  in  secret  by  the  chiefs,  and  partaken 
of  by  them.  Mtarika  has  been  known  to  make  feasts  of  this  kind,  and 
then  to  invite  Mahommedans  and  other  strangers  to  partake  of  it,  telling 
them  that  it  is  goat's  flesh,  of  which  the  coast  people  are  very  fond. 

The  savage  practice  of  burying  living  persons  with  the  dead  is  in 
more  or  less  common  practice  with  some  tribes  of  the  Yao  family.  As 
for  instance,  when  I  was  at  Nyang wall's  town,  the  chief  would  not 
allow  me  to  proceed,  because  they  were  busy  performing  the  rites  of 
burial  to  a  sub-chief  who  had  died  the  previous  day.  I  asked  permission 
to  be  allowed  to  be  present  at  the  burial,  but  was  refused.  My  men, 
however,  went  to  fire  their  guns  at  the  grave,  as  a  mark  of  respect  to  the 
dead,  and  being  coast  men  they  were  allowed  to  stay.  On  their  return, 
they  told  me  that  two  girls  and  a  young  man  had  been  buried  alive  with 
the  body.  There  is  a  custom  that  should  one  of  the  poor  unfortunates, 
who  is  about  to  be  buried  alive,  happen  to  sneeze,  the  sneezing  is  taken 
as  a  sign  that  the  dead  man  does  not  wish  that  person  to  be  buried  with 
him.  He  or  she  is  therefore  released  and  sent  back  to  the  village.  The 
burial  place  is  generally  away  from  the  village,  and  often  alongside  the 
main  road. 

The  river  Lugenda  varies  considerably  in  width :  at  its  confluence 
with  the  Kuvuma  it  is  about  a  mile  wide,  and  at  the  point  where  it 
receives  its  waters  from  the  lake  Amaramba  it  is  some  80  yards.  But 
tliis  is  full  of  water  only  during  the  wet  season.  At  other  times  the 
river  is  fordable  at  many  places.  Islands,  beautifully  wooded,  are 
scattered  all  the  way  up  the  river,  some  of  which  are  three  or  four  miles 
in  length.  They  are  not  submerged  during  the  wet  season,  and  there- 
fore they  form  the  permanent  homes  of  the  people.  Some  of  these 
islands  are  very  beautiful,  covered  with  large  forest  trees,  whose  branches 
are  hung  everywhere  with  garlands  and  festoons  of  graceful  creeping 
plants.  Under  the  trees  are  to  be  seen  little  clusters  of  rather  small 
huts  enclosed  by  reed  fences.  Each  of  these  clustei*s  is  a  household 
group.  The  children  are  playing  about  on  all  sides,  and  every  hero  and 
there  are  seen  groups  of  frisking  kids  with  their  dams.  It  appears  a  bright 
and  peaceful  scene,  and  yet  what  misery  and  suffering  is  often  there! 
what  uncertainty  of  life  and  liberty  I 

Through  the  kindness  of  Consul  Hawes  and  Dr.  Milne,  of  the  Blan- 

2  M  2 


470 


ON  THE  S0C1ETY*S  EXPEDITIOiN  TO  THE 


tyre  Mission,  I  quickly  recovered  from  my  fever,  and  intended  ta 
proceed  on  my  journey,  but  tte  wet  season  set  in  so  very  heavily,  that 
it  was  next  to  imposBibltj  for  a  caravan  to  travel  over  the  boggy 
conntr}'^.  I  therofore  accepted  the  invitation  Consal  Hawes  had  ao 
generonsly  offered  me,  to  stay  with  him  until  the  wet  eeaaon  was  over. 
Dnrinj^  this  time,  as  weather  permitted,  we  made  several  excnrsione  to 
the  principal  hills  and  villages  in  the  neighbourhood.  We  also  paid  a 
visit  to  the  Makololo  people  on  the  lower  Shire,  and  made  a  more  ex- 
tended journey  to  the  Angoni  people  in  the  country  to  the  south-west  of 
Lake  Nyaaaa,  an  account  of  ivhich  is  given  in  the  March  number  of  the 
*  Proceedings '  of  thie  year. 

On  July  12tb»  I  left  Blantyre,  and  proceeded  by  an  almost  easterly 
course,  to  the  block  of  hills  from  which  the  NamuH  Peaks  arise,  which 
we  reached  on  August  3rd.  The  soil  of  the  oimutry  passed  through  is 
in  moat  parts  fairly  good,  and  many  places  are  so  fertile  that  green  corn 
can  be  grown  all  the  year  round*  The  people  of  this  line  of  country  are 
Taos  and  Makuas,  the  former  of  whom  live  near  to  Blantyre,  The  Matiia 
country  is  entered  after  i>assing  the  northern  spur  of  the  Milanji  group 
of  liills.  Of  these  Makuas  there  are  three  sub-tribes  in  the  country 
crossed,  namely,  the  Alolo,  the  Mahivanij  and  the  Lomwe.  These  are 
all  very  similar  in  customs,  language,  and  dress.  In  language  there 
seem  to  be  but  a  few  dialectic  differences,  and  in  dress  they  copy  each 
other  by  all  trying  to  wear  as  little  as  possible.  Tbe  most  distin- 
guishing mark  is  in  their  head-dress  arrangement.  The  Alolo  simply 
allow  their  hair  to  grow,  and  shave  it  off  when  it  becomes  troublesome  ; 
the  aim  of  the  Mahivani  is  to  excel  in  arranging  their  natural  hair  into 
the  most  fantastical  head-dresses  ;  while  the  Lomwe  exercise  their  skill 
in  making  very  curious  artificial  head-dresses,  but  seldom  work  up  their 
own  hair,  I  had  no  particular  difficulty  in  making  my  way  through 
the  country,  though  the  natives  all  looked  upon  us  with  the  greatest 
suspicion,  for  they  could  not  understand  a  stranger  passing  through 
their  countr}'  and  not  buying  anything  except  the  food  wanted  for  the 
caravan. 

On  arrival  at  the  Namuli  district,  I  was  well  received  by  the  princi- 
pal chief.  Ana  Guruwe,  and  arranged  with  him  to  make  his  village  my 
head-i|uarters  duriug  my  stay  in  the  district.  This  was  done  by  an 
exchange  of  presents,  and  then  the  chief  conducted  mo  to  a  rjuarter  of 
his  village  J  where  he  gave  me  houses  for  the  use  of  my  men,  and  an  open 
space  on  which  to  set  up  my  tent.  I  remained  in  the  district  for  about 
three  months,  during  which  time  I  made  several  excureions  up  the  hills 
and  into  the  country  on  all  sides,  iaking  observations  and  collecting 
general  information.  Ana  Gum  we' s  village  is  built  at  the  foot  of  the 
south  side  of  the  bhick  of  hills  on  which  the  Kamult  Peaks  stand.  It  is 
situated  in  long.  ^7"  02'  20"  E.  and  lat^  15=*  27'  30"  S.,  and  is  nearly 
2000  feet  above  sea-level.    There  ie  no  name  in  use  amongst  the  natives 


NAMUU  HILLS,  EAST  AFRICA.  471 

to  denote  the  entire  block  of  hills,  but  each  spur,  cliff,  prominent  part, 
or  peak  has  its  own  distinctive  name.  On  the  south  side  of  the 
mountain  several  low  spurs  strike  out,  and  then  it  rises  very  abruptly  to 
an  altitude  of  2500  feet  above  the  plain.  The  whole  side  is  covered 
with  the  densest  vegetation,  in  which  large  trees,  indiarubber  and 
other  vines,  tree-ferns,  palms,  bamboos,  and  a  great  variety  of  shrubs 
and  bushes,  all  combine  to  add  beauty  to  the  scene.  The  ground, 
wherever  it  is  not  covered  with  bushes  and  creepers,  is  thickly  carpeted 
with  ferns,  flowering  plants,  and  grasses.  In  some  places  deep  gorges 
have  been  cut  away  by  the  ever-rushing  torrent,  and  small  streams  come 
skipping  and  sprinkling  down  on  all  sides.  In  one  place  there  is  a 
beautiful  double  waterfall  of  some  500  feet  over  the  clean  rock,  and  on 
each  side  of  it  large  beds  of  gently  waving  maidenhair  ferns.  The 
mountain  sides  can  be  scaled  in  several  places,  but  the  way  generally 
used  is  up  the  bed  of  a  rough  rocky  watercourse.  In  summer  it  is  drj', 
but  in  the  wet  season  the  tumbling  torrent  makes  a  series  of  most 
beautiful  cascades  and  waterfalls.  On  reaching  the  top  of  the  mountain 
mass,  one  sees  a  large  extent  of  deeply  undulating  country,  gentle  valleys, 
mountain  ridges  gradually  rising  and  culminating  in  abrupt  peaks,  very 
deep  gorges  caused  by  some  enormous  force  and  the  continual  flowing 
of  the  larger  streams.  In  other  places  may  be  seen  a  large  and  almost 
level  boggy  flat,  having  all  the  appearance  of  a  dried-up  lake.  One  of 
these  is  about  a  mile  across,  and  contains  the  head-waters  of  the  river 
Lukugu.  There  is  just  sufficient  soil  and  grass  bound  together  on  it 
to  make  it  safe  walking,  though  many  parts  are  very  shaky  when 
walking  on  it.  A  large  stream  is  always  issuing  from  under  this  boggy 
flat,  into  a  deep  gorge,  down  which  the  Lukugu  flows.  Nature  seems  to 
have  especially  exerted  herself  in  tho  formation  of  this  mountain  mass. 
On  all  sides  high  conical  peaks  may  be  seen  raising  their  heads  from 
1000  to  3000  feet  high,  above  the  common  level  of  the  mountain  mass. 
Look  a  little  away  and  you  see  gently  rising  ridges  with  one  on  both 
sides  forming  fearful  precipices,  from  one  to  two  thousand  feet  deep. 
Along  the  depths  of  these  gorges  and  precipices  the  rivers  may  bo  seen, 
like  so  many  silvery  lines,  wending  their  way  to  the  green  valleys 
beyond. 

The  principal  feature  of  this  mountain  district  is  the  double-crested 
Namuli  Peak.  This  stands  at  the  extreme  end  of  a  ridge  which  gently 
rises  and  extends  towards  the  north  from  the  southern  edge  of  the 
mountain  mass.  On  the  west  side  of  this  ridge  is  a  very  deep  gorge,  from 
the  depths  of  which  Namuli  rears  up  its  head  quite  6000  feet.  From  the 
north,  east,  and  south  sides  of  Namuli,  at  a  distance  of  2500  feet  from  its 
summit,  extensive  spurs  extend.  The  remaining  part  of  the  peak  is  an 
almost  perpendicular  mass  of  white  stone ;  all  the  surface  of  the  upper 
part  of  the  peak  is  guttered  with  innumerable  small  watercourses,  which 
shows  the  effect  of  the  elements  during  the  ages  it  has  raised  its  head  on 


472 


ON  THE  SOCIETY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


high.  The  top  of  the  peak  has  a  slight  indent  running  across  It  from 
east  to  west,  which  makes  it  appear  to  be  double  crested,  one  of  which  is 
a  little  highor  than  the  other.  In  this  indent  a  small  group  of  treea  is 
visible,  from  whieh  flows  continnally  a  small  stream  of  water  down  the 
east  side  of  the  peak,  Tbe  position  of  Namuli  is  long.  37**  01'  15"  E,, 
and  lat  15^  20'  12"  S.     Its  height  is  8000  feet 

There  are  a  nnraber  of  peaks  near  to  Namuli,  each  having  its  dis- 
tinctive name,  of  these  Pilani  and  Pesani  are  the  chief.  Pilani  is  nearest 
to  Namuli,  and  is  within  300  feet  of  being  as  high.  The  two  principal 
peaks  within  a  few  miles  ot  Namuli,  are  Mruli  to  the  west,  and  Mresi  to 
the  east.  All  these  peaks  are  more  or  less  cone-shaped  and  have  streams 
coming  down  from  near  the  top.  It  was  impossible  to  ascend  Namuli, 
the  sides  are  so  ateep  and  smooth,  but  most  of  the  others  liave  rougher 
watercourses,  by  which  I  was  able  to  asoeodj  and  secure  altitudes  and 
observations. 

If  the  mountain  he  considered  as  a  whole,  its  south  side  is  the  liighest, 
and  the  whole  mass  gradually  drops  towards  the  north.  The  only  river 
of  importance  on  the  mountain  which  flows  to  the  south  is  the  Lukugo. 
To  the  north  flow  three  comparativt-ly  large  rivers,  the  Malema,  the 
Ludi,  and  the  Lusi,  The  Malema  rises  from  the  east  side  of  the  ridge 
which  extends  between  Namuli  Peak  and  the  south  urn  edge  of  the  moun- 
tain mass.  Streatus  are  to  bo  seen  rushing  down  from  all  parts  of  the 
sides  of  the  riJge,  into  the  elevated  mountain  valley,  forming  most 
beautiful  waterfalls  and  cascades.  Thence  it  flows  and  receives  streams, 
large  and  small,  from  all  sides,  till  it  enters  the  valley  to  the  north,  and 
then  flows  on  to  the  Lull  with  which  it  joins.  The  scenery  in  the 
mountain  valley  of  the  Malema  is  very  beautiful,  and  in  great  variety. 
Here  you  may  see  a  largo  plot  of  soft  green  grass,  as  smooth  as  a  lawn ; 
there  there  is  a  bed  of  aloes  in  full  flower;  a  little  further  on  Is  seen  a 
belt  of  tall  trees,  covered  with  creeping  plants  and  parasites,  orchids, 
and  ferns  in  great  variety.  Underneath  there  is  the  clear  sparkling 
brook,  gaily  rushing  along  to  add  its  quota  to  the  main  fctream,  Natoro 
here  seems  to  have  used  all  her  power  to  make  the  place  a  lovely  spot,  a 
feast  for  human  eyes. 

The  Ludi  and  Lusi  rivers  rise  in  the  hilb  near  to  and  on  the  west 
side  of  Namuli ;  they  move  on  amongst  the  hills  by  diflerent  paths,  till 
they  reach  the  valley,  where  they  join  their  waters,  and  then  flow  on 
into  the  Luli. 

The  sources  of  the  river  Lnkngn  are  in  a  boggy  lake-like  hollow, 
fdmost  surrounded  by  hills  and  peaks.  On  the  east  side  of  this  basin 
the  peak  Pilani  raises  it^  head,  and  is  separated  from  Namuli  by  a  valley 
almost  5000  feet  deep.  The  waters  of  the  Lukugu,  issuing  from  the 
bog,  rush  down  into  a  deep  gorge,  which  is  thickly  wooded  on  one  side, 
and  the  other  is  a  bare  precipitous  rock.  On  it  ruwheij,  tumbling  over  a 
huge  mass  of  rock,  and  then  dashing  over  and  among  the  boulders  and 


KAMITU  HILLS,  EAST  AFRICA, 


473 


loukSf  until  it  approaohes  the  YiUag^eB  of  Ana  Moolie.    It  passes  here 

with  a  more  quiet,  but  still  rough  der^cont,  and  dancea  aloDg  Tintil  it 
passes  between  the  Cbali  and  31a!isani  Hilk,  and  thenoo  Sows  into  the 
valley  on  the  south  jside  of  the  mountain.  On  ita  way  amongst  the  hills 
it  receives  the  waters  of  several  email  strc^ams,  and  one  larger  tban  itself 
which  rushes  down  Cbali  HilL  This  stream,  the  Volo»  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  pieces  of  scenery  on  the  whole  mountain.  The  sides  of 
the  gorge  through  which  it  passes  are  clothed  with  thick  forests  which 
overhang  the  river  and  form  a  complete  canopy*  Tree-ferns  and  palms 
are  abundant,  and  the  ground  is  covered  with  quite  a  carpet  of  ferns 
and  other  plants  in  great  variety.  Here  there  is  an  open  flat  of  quiet 
water,  a  little  further  on  the  sparkling  river  dashes  along  wet  rocks 
and  boulders,  giving  fresh  life  and  vigour  to  the  whole  scene. 

There  are  but  a  few  villages  on  the  mountain  now,  btit  formerly  it 
was  well  populated  ;  this  is  shown  by  the  partly  cleared  spots,  and 
scattered  groups  of  banana  trees,  whicjli  indie; ite  the  position  of  former 
villages*  The  natives  still  living  on  the  mountain  aro  at  the  groatesh 
varianoe  with  each  other,  continually  fighting  and  carrying  off  each 
other  to  sell  as  slaves^  so  that  I  fonnd  it  impossible  to  induce  natives 
living  on  the  east  side  of  Kamuli  to  accompany  me  to  the  west,  Every- 
where the  soil  is  of  the  greatest  fertility,  so  that  rice  and  native  grains 
can  be  raised  in  large  quantities.  All  kinda  of  European  vegetables 
would  grow  well,  and  in  all  probability  wheat  and  other  Ei^ropean  cereals 
wonld  succeed.  Among  the  hills,  on  the  banks  of  the  Lukugu,  are  tho 
scattered  hamlets  of  part  of  a  small  tribe  of  Makuas,  called  Maua,  who 
are  cannibals*  They  keep  themselves  quite  separate  from  tho  other 
Makuas,  seldom  being  seen  at  any  diatanco  from  their  gardens  or  villages. 
Whilst  tracing  the  Lukugu  to  its  source,  we  had  to  pass  through  tbeir 
district,  and,  on  arrival  at  the  villagCB,  we  found  all  the  people  engaged  at 
a  drinking  boot,  in  a  village  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream.  As  we 
went  along  the  people  came  out  with  a  great  noise,  and  the  chief  sang 
out  that  he  wanted  my  helmet  to  wear,  and  my  skull  to  use  as  a  drinking 
cup.  I  did  not  agree  with  him  on  tbat  subject,  so  we  kept  marching 
steadily  on  till  we  reached  a  piece  of  rising  ground  beyond  the  villages, 
where  we  made  a  halt* 

I  then  sent  a  guide  back  to  the  chief  with  a  small  present,  and  to 
ask  him  to  come  and  see  me  after  1  had  returned  to  Ana  Guruwe's 
village.  The  natives  seemed  to  be  rather  taken  aback  by  the  ajipear- 
anco  of  our  arms»  and  our  steadily  marching  forward*  A  few  dayw  after 
my  return  to  Ouj  uwe's  a  headman  from  Ana  Mocb©*s  village  arrived, 
saying  that  he  had  been  sent  by  that  chief  to  feoo  me.  After  salutations, 
he  said  that  the  people  of  the  village  had  intended  to  attack  ue,  bat  our 
guns  frightened  them.  I  then  asked  him  about  their  man-eating  pro- 
pensities, and  he  told  mo  that  it  was  true  that  they  did  sometimes  eat 
alaves  and  the  bodies  of  those  killed  in  war.    A  common  practice  was 


474 


W  THE  SOCIETY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


that  wLen  it  bad  been  privately  determined  to  kill  a  certain  person,  a 
public  bcer-drioking  would  be  convened^  and  the  intended  victim  in- 
vited to  the  lestival.  As  soon  as  he  was  fairly  intoxicated,  the  men 
told  off  for  the  pnrpose  would  seize  and  carry  him  off  to  the  bush  and 
spear  him ;  then  a  feast  would  be  got  up,  of  which  all  would  partake. 
Ana  Gumwe  had  previously  told  me  how  that  some  of  his  own  people 
and  friends  had  been  carried  off  by  these  people,  mntilated  by  them,  and 
then  devonred.  Guru  wo  also  told  me  that  these  cannibals  even  eat  their 
own  dead. 

During  the  three  months  I  lived  about  Namuli  the  average  mean 
temperature  was  75^  Fahr*  The  general  maximum  reading  was  about 
Oo^  and  minimum  55*^-  On  the  mounfcain  my  men  were  much  affected  by 
the  cold,  the  minimum  thermometer  being  frequently  at  freezing  point, 
and  on  August  25th,  at  our  camp  at  the  foot  of  Peseni,  at  4  a.m.  the 
thermometer  was  at  26^,  and  a  thin  sheet  of  ice  was  formed  on  a  pail  of 
water  which  had  been  loft  outside  all  night.  As  the  month  of  September 
is  the  beginning  of  the  hot  season,  it  seems  highly  probable  that  very 
strong  frosts  may  be  experienced  ou  the  mountain  during  the  cold  season. 
It  will  be  understood  by  reference  to  the  height  of  Namuli,  that  it  cannot 
be  snow-clad,  nor  could  I  get  any  information  from  the  natives  to  show 
that  they  were  acquainted  with  snow,  though  they  are  frequently 
visited  with  hailstorms.  Strong  whirlwinds  are  very  frequent  on  the 
mountains,  rushing  along  with  great  noise  and  force.  The  natives  call 
it  tnyujmrw,  which  word  is  also  used  to  denote  a  bad  spirit. 

After  completing  my  obser^'^ations  in  the  Namuli  district,  I  gave  a 
parting  present  to  Ana  Guru  we,  who  had,  on  the  whole,  been  very  kind 
to  mo,  and  commenced  my  journey  along  the  river  Lukngu  to  the 
coast.  On  the  23rd  October  wo  left  Guruwe's  village,  and  reached 
QuHlimane  on  16th  November  following. 

Wo  struck  the  Lukugu  near  the  ford  at  the  village  of  Ana  Wahiwa. 
Here  we  were  received  by  the  chief  and  by  him  conducted  over  to  the 
nght  bank,  where  wo  camped  for  the  night.  The  Lukugu  here  is 
abont  80  yards  wide,  and  full  of  rocks.  The  banks  are  some  20  feet 
deep,  and  there  was  then  an  average  depth  of  one  foot  of  water.  In 
the  rains,  the  river  overflows  its  banks,  and  becomes  impassable. 

On  the  second  day  after  leaving  this  place,  we  crossed  the  Uluu 
river,  called  Lnkotokwa  on  O^Neiirs  map.  I  could  not  find  any  one  who 
knew  this  latter  name,  but  all  8pokc  of  it  as  Uluu.  It  h  nearly  as  wide 
as  the  Lukugu,  and  had  more  water  where  I  crossed  it.  Its  sources  are 
in  the  hills  around  Kamusula's,  and  it  receives  all  the  water  from  the 
hills  Katuni,  Zaje,  Mrupa,  and  others. 

Just  below  where  the  Uluu  ent<5rs  the  Lukugu  on  the  right  bank, 
the^Mtetele  enters  it  on  the  left  bank.  This  is  about  thirly  yards  wide. 
Thence  we  went  on  to  the  junction  of  the  Lumanana,  or  Luu,  as  it  is 
called   by  the   natives,   which  we   reached  on   October  28th,      After 


NAMULI  HILLS,  EAST  AFRICA.  475 

receiving  the  Ulan,  or  Lukotokwa,  and  numerous  small  streams  on 
either  side,  the  Lukugu  widens  out,  and  several  large  islands  are 
formed  in  its  course.  These  are  inhabited  by  the  natives  only  in  times 
of  danger.  They  are  generally  well  wooded,  and  are  sufficiently  large, 
with  good  soil,  to  be  suitable  as  a  permanent  residence.  This  part  of 
the  country  is  very  thickly  inhabited,  the  people  being  of  the  same  tribe 
as  those  living  near  Namuli. 

In  passing  through  the  villages,  great  numbers  of  men,  women, 
and  children,  escorted  the  caravan  for  miles,  hoping  to  get  if  only  the 
smallest  piece  of  cloth  or  a  few  beads.  It  was  well  for  my  men,  as  a 
native  would  carry  a  load  all  the  morning  for  a  piece  of  calico  a  quarter 
of  a  yard  wide.  Further  on,  we  came  to  a  place  where  there  were  some 
hippopotami;  I  quite  delighted  the  natives  by  shooting  two,  thus 
giving  them  the  means  of  having  a  good  feast.  This  kind  of  thing  I 
was  able  to  do  several  times,  and  so  secured  the  friendship  of  the  chiefs, 
who  all  wanted  me  to  shoot  some  hippos  for  them.  Generally,  the 
soil  of  the  country  on  both  banks  of  the  river  is  very  good,  but  as  almost 
everywhere  else,  the  natives  only  grow  for  their  own  wants. 

After  crossing  the  Lumanana  or  Luu  river,  which  is  some  200  yards 
wide,  we  entered  an  almost  depopulated  country.  Excepting  a  large 
village  recently  built  just  at  the  crossing  of  the  Lumanana,  there  are  only 
a^  few  scattered  villages,  till  the  Portuguese  plantations  and  trading 
stations  are  reached.  The  sites  of  deserted  villages  on  both  banks  of  the 
river  show  how  thickly  the  country  was  formerly,  and  even  till  lately, 
inhabited.  The  land  is  good  in  most  places,  and  would  produce  almost 
any  amount  of  corn,  if  well  cultivated.  On  November  5th  we  crossed 
the  Lugera,  another  large  affluent  of  the  Lukugu,  which  rises  on  the 
eabt  side  of  Milanji  Hills.  This  is  a  river  as  large  as  the  Lumanana,  but 
is  useless  for  commercial  purposes  on  account  of  the  rapids  all  up  the 
river.  On  the  13th  November  we  reached  the  coast  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Lukugu,  having  thus  followed  it  from  its  source  to  its  outlet.  The 
Lukugu  is  quite  useless  for  commercial  purposes,  it  being  a  series  of 
rapids  along  nearly  all  its  course.  A  few  canoes  are  met  with  on  the 
river,  but  they  are  chiefly  used  for  crfjssing,  and  making  small  journeys 
from  village  to  village,  wherever  it  is  possible  to  pass  between  the  rocks. 
There  is  plenty  of  land  between  the  coast  and  the  mountain  ranges  of 
which  the  Namuli  district  forms  a  part,  which  is  undoubtedly  suitable 
for  growing  coffee,  perhaps  tea  and  cocoa:  cotton  in  many  places  is 
grown  by  the  natives,  and  tobacco  everywhere.  The  two  great 
hindrances  to  successful  planting  are  want  of  labour,  and  an  easy  means 
of  transport  of  goods  to  and  from  the  coast. 

From  the  village  of  Maroda,  which  is  near  the  coast  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Lukugu,  we  went  across  the  country  to  Quillimane.  Here  I  rested 
for  about  three  weeks,  and  then  commenced  my  return  journey,  leaving 
Quillimane  on  Saturday,  December  11  th.    The  road  we  followed  led  about 


476 


ON  Tll£  SOCIETY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  THE 


halfway  between  the  usnal  road  to  Bl  an  tyre  and  the  road  I  bad  followed 
down  the  Lukugo.     On  the  14th  January,  1887»  I  ai^ain  n  ficbcd  Blantyre. 

In  the  limited  time  allotted  to  me  fur  this  prelimiiiary  aeeomit  of  my 
expedition 6  it  is  impossible  to  give  the  parti culars  of  this  journey  and 
they  mnst  be  deferred  to  a  future  occasion.  The  people  through  whoeo 
t'oimtry  we  passed  were  a  tribe  of  Makiias  called  Atakwani.  They  are 
in  moht  reBpects  very  like  the  Mahivani  tribe  of  Makua,  and  are  perhaps 
more  closely  allied  to  them  than  to  any  other  tribe.  The  country  i«  in 
many  places  good  and  fertile,  especially  alongside  the  frequent  streams- 
There  is  but  little  difficulty  in  travelling  thiongh  the  country.  The 
natires,  as  soon  ea  they  see  that  the  traveller  is  amicably  disposed,  receive 
him  kindly,  and  at  a  fair  rate  will  provide  him  with  whatever  ho  may 
need.  Of  course,  all  are  not  disposed  alike,  but  invariably  I  have  been 
able  to  overcome  all  onr  difficulties  without  having  recourse  to  arras. 

At  Blantyre  I  was  very  kindly  received  by  Mr,  Moir,  the  Manager 
of  the  African  Lakes  Company.  Here  I  stayed  till  the  28th  of  Januar}% 
and  then  started  on  my  final  journey  to  the  coast,  intending  to  come 
out  at  Ibo,  Leaving  Blantyre  I  went  to  Zomba,  at  w^hich  place 
Mr.  Hawes  has  lately  establishod  the  Consulate.  After  a  few  days* 
stay  with  the  Consul  I  resumed  my  journey,  going  round  the  sooth  end 
of  Lake  Shirwa,  and  ascending  its  east  side,  thence  to  Chinta  and 
Amaramba  Lakes.  On  leaving  Che  Chikw^eo's  at  the  south-east  end 
of  Amaramba,  we  were  told  that  we  should  have  three  tlays  of  furest  to 
pass,  and  then  we  should  come  across  a  road  leading  to  the  Medo 
country.  So  the  men  bought  food  for  that  time,  and  we  went  on  onr 
jonraey.  On  we  went  for  three  days,  four  days,  and  there  was  no  sight 
of  villages.  Still  we  went  on,  and  the  men  finished  their  food,  and  mine 
was  finished  too.  Fortunately  there  was  plenty  of  muBhrooms  aU  over 
the  country ;  these,  with  some  roots  and  flowers  of  a  certain  kind  of 
bean,  had  to  satisfy  our  wants  for  three  days,  at  which  time  we  came  to 
a  small  bill  having  a  village  on  the  weat  side.  As  we  were  on  the  east 
side  we  camped,  and  the  men  went  ofi*  for  food.  As  soon  as  we  got  food, 
the  troubles  of  the  road  were  forgotten,  and  w©  went  on  to  the  villages 
under  the  chiefs  Mpwina  and  Che  Cbikweo.  Hez©  we  stayed  for  a  day 
or  twoj  and  then  began  our  journey  to  Ibo,  which  lies  almost  direct  east, 
Che  Cbikweo  gave  me  two  men  to  act  as  guides  as  far  as  the  Luleko  river, 
and  then  they  were  to  return.  Here  again  we  ware  attacked  by  hunger, 
with  much  more  serious  results.  Oh©  Chikwoo  told  us  that  'wo  should 
reach  the  Medo  villages  in  five  or  six  days,  so  wo  took  food  for  eight. 
After  we  bad  crossed  the  river  Lnleko,  wo  found  ourselves  in  a  pathless 
forest,  and  had  to  putjh  our  way  as  best  we  could  through  the  tangled 
hushes  and  tall  grass.  "We  went  on  this  way  for  six  days,  and  the  men's 
food  was  finished ;  again  they  had  to  take  to  eating  whatever  they  could 
find  in  the  forest.  I  had  to  make  use  of  the  same  <Het,  with  the  excep- 
tion  of  baling  a  few  beans,  which  I  used  with  the  mushitKjms ;  coffee 


NAMOU  HILLS,  EAST  AFRICA.  477 

I  always  had.  So  we  went  on  for  three  days  further,  and  the  men  be- 
came so  weak  that  they  could  not  carry  the  loads.  We  had  a  consulta- 
tion over  our  affairs,  and  it  was  decided  that  we  would  go  on  to  a  hill  in 
the  distance,  climb  it,  and  see  if'  there  were  any  villages  or  cultivated 
gardens  in  sight,  and  if  so  to  send  on  some  men  to  get  food  ;  if  not,  we 
would  hide  the  things  on  the  hill  and  go  on  all  together  till  we  either  fell 
or  reached  a  village.  The  hill  was  ascended,  and  nothing  could  be  seen 
but  the  whole  country  covered  with  thick  forest,  and  every  here  and 
there  cone-like  hills  cropping  up.  The  things  were  hid,  as  I  had  hoped 
safely,  and  we  resumed  our  journey. 

At  4  o'clock  on  the  third  day  we  were  rejoiced  by  seeing  the  green 
fields  of  com  belonging  to  a  village  hid  in  the  forest.  The  sight  of  this 
gave  us  now  vigour,  and  we  were  not  long  before  we  had  reached  the 
village  and  were  satisfying  our  hunger.  The  next  duty  was  to  go  back 
for  the  things,  for  I  had  only  brought  what  was  really  necessary  in 
instruments,  with  my  books  and  papers.  I  sent  the  men  off  the  next  day. 
They  would  not  hear  of  my  going  with  them,  and  as  soon  as  they  reached 
the  place  they  found  some  one  had  discovered  our  things  and  carried 
off  everything  excepting  my  tent,  and  the  empty  tin  boxes.  The  instru- 
ments I  had  left  behind  were  all  smashed  up ;  these  included  all  my  own 
and  several  belonging  to  the  Society.  Besides  these  I  lost  my  clothes, 
the  cloth  which  I  wanted  for  the  journey,  and  nearly  all  my  natural 
history  collections.  They  only  left  me  the  empty  tin  boxes  and  my 
tent,  which  they  could  not  carry  off,  the  men  being  probably  few 
in  number.  It  was  impossible  to  say  who  had  carried  off  the 
goods.  It  might  have  been  a  party  of  hunters  who  came  across  our 
track  and  followed  us,  or  it  might  have  been  people  of  the  village  where 
we  had  arrived.  They  behaved  very  well  to  us  whilst  we  were  there, 
but  it  is  not  easy  to  say  whether  their  kindness  was  the  result  of  a 
naturally  good  disposition,  or  used  as  a  cloak  to  hide  their  theft. 

We  were  now  reduced  to  great  straits,  not  having  either  cloth  or 
other  articles  to  make  use  of,  and  we  were  still  some  fifteen  days  from  the 
coast.  Fortunately  I  had  given  the  men  four  yards  of  cloth  each,  just 
before  we  left  the  things  in  the  forest,  and  this  served  us  till  we  reached 
the  district  of  a  great  chief,  named  Mweli.  To  him  we  stated  our  case, 
and  he  very  kindly  took  us  in  hand,  supplied  our  wants,  and  after 
keeping  us  for  eight  days  in  his  village,  gave  us  all  we  needed  to  take 
us  to  the  coast,  and  al^o  four  men  as  guides  to  take  us  to  Ibo.  For  this 
kindness  I  had  to  send  Mweli  some  things  from  Ibo,  by  the  men  he  had 
sent  with  me.  The  whole  of  the  country  crossed,  from  Che  Chikweo  to 
the  coast,  has  been  thickly  populated ;  the  ground  is  the  best  I  have 
seen,  and  was  formerly  well  cultivated.  The  people  who  lived  here 
were  chiefly  Lomwe  Makua.  They  were  surrounded  on  all  sides  by 
marauding  tribes  who  completely  drove  them  out,  and  made  them  take 
to  the  mountains  in  the  south.   !Now  the  land,  except  the  strip  inhabited 


478      THE  SOCIETY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  THE  KAMULI  HILLS.^DISCtJSSION. 

by  tbe  Medo  Makua,  is  a  dense  foxeet,  tbo  home  of  tho  elopliant  and 
boffalo.  Tho  Portuguese  look  upon  all  tlik  valuable  country  ae  tbeirs, 
and  profess  to  have  lately  made  treaties  with  Mweli  and  Mtarlka  (whom 
tbey  call  tho  Prince  of  Mtarika),  by  which  they  have  acquired  a  right 
over  all  their  lands.  Mweli  was  very  strong  in  hiB  assertions  to  me  that 
the  Portuguese  bad  not  been  able  to  make  treaties  with  him,  though 
they  desired  to  do  so.  By  the  chief  Che  Chikweo  I  was  told  that  Lieut. 
Cardozo  bad  tried  to  induce  Mtarika  to  sign  a  treaty  putting  himself 
Tinder  tho  protection  of  tho  Portuguese  Oovemment,  but  Mtarika  would 
not  consent. 

On  arrival  at  Ibo,  the  Portuguese  authorities  were  very  kind  to  me : 
tbe  Governor,  Senhor  De  Palma  Velho,  gave  me  an  audience  at  once, 
and  provided  me  with  a  house  and  money.  Both  he  and  tbe  new 
governor  who  came  into  office  whilst  I  was  io  Ibo,  showed  me  much 
kindness,  especially  in  regard  to  tbe  expedition,  which  was  allow^ed  to 
pass  from  the  place  free  of  all  passport  or  other  dues. 

From  Ibo  I  went  to  Zanzibar,  and  thence  to  Aden,  reaching  England 
on  Tuesday,  June  14th* 

In  introducing  the  subject  of  tlie  evening— 

The  FuEsiDENT  said  that  about  two  years  ago  Mr.  Last  was  enlrusted  by  tbe 
Council  of  tbe  tvociety  with  a  misaion  to  explore  the  ri^gion  midway  between 
Mozambique  and  Lake  Xyasaa,  iuto  a  portion  of  which  Couaul  CTNoili  bad  pene- 
trated a  abort  time  before*  He  was  especially  desired  to  investigate  a  remarkable 
mouutaioous  tract,  the  Namuli  Hilla,  tbat  bad  been  aeffu  by  Mr.  O'Neill j  and  which 
was  originally  reix»rtcd  to  tbat  traveller  to  be  covered  with  anow.  Mr,  Last's 
inatructiona  wera  to  proceed  first  to  the  junction  of  the  Lugenda  and  Ruviima 
rivera,  and  then  fix  the  course  of  tbe  Lukugu.  Mr.  Last  returned  to  England  only 
a  few  days  ago,  and  had  oot  yet  bad  an  opportunity  to  complete  a  detailed  report ; 
the  i>aper  be  would  read  must  lie  takenj  therefore,  only  as  a  preliminary  general 
account  of  hia  expedition.  We  abouid  look  forward  with  great  interest  to  Mr.  Laat*« 
full  description  of  the  geography  aud  natural  history  of  the  country.  It  was 
evident  tbat  the  vegetation  was  most  luxuriant,  and  the  scenery  beautiful,  and 
no  doubt  tbe  animal  life  would  be  equally  abundant. 


After  Mr,  Last's*  paper, 

Mr.  JoaEPU  Thomson  said  that  Mr*  Last»  before  undertaking  the  present  expG> 
ditioo,  had  done  important  work  in  Uaagara  and  the  neighbouring  regions  of  Easit 
Central  Africa,  contributing  largely  to  our  knowledge  of  the  natural  hiBtory  of  that 
regiou.  The  country  which  had  juat  been  described  waa  one  of  very  great  interest. 
Tbo  Namuli  Mountains  api>eared  to  be  a  [leculiar  mountain  district  in  that  part  of 
Africa,  and  it  would  be  well  to  know  something  about  their  geological  formation. 
Congut  O'Neill  had  referred  to  them  aa,  in  bis  opinion,  volcanic.  If  Mr.  Last  could 
give  the  Society  any  inforniation  on  that  i>oiut,  it  would  be  most  interesting.  Hu 
had  much  pleasure  in  moving  a  cordial  vote  of  thanks  to  Mr,  Last  for  his  paper. 


(     479    ) 
A  Journey  through  Yemen.    By  Major-General  F.  T.  Haig. 

CBead  at  the  Erening  Meeting,  Jane  27th,  1887.) 

The  following  paper  has  been  compiled  from  rough  notes  of  a  tonr 
through  Yemen  made  in  the  month  of  January  last.  It  may  be  useful 
to  future  travellers,  and  also  as  furnishing  some  information  respecting 
a  country  in  which  we  have  certainly  a  deeper  interest  than  any  other 
nation,  but  about  which  we  have  hitherto  been  content  to  know  very 
little.  It  is  forty-seven  years  since  we  took  possession  of  Aden,  and 
established  a  protectorate  over  some  of  the  Arab  tribes  around  it,  tribes 
numbering  130,000  souls,  and  occupying  a  tract  of  country  200  miles 
in  length  by  40  in  breadth.  With  these  tribes  we  have  distinct  treaty 
engagements ;  we  subsidise  them  so  long  as  they  are  of  good  behaviour, 
that  is  to  say,  pay  them  blackmail  to  the  extent  of  12,000  dollars  a  year, 
and  trouble  ourselves  no  further  about  them  than  occasionally  to  inter- 
fere to  put  down  a  disturbance,  or  to  decide  some  disputed  question  of 
succession. 

Their  territory  not  being  divided  from  that  to  the  north  of  it  by 
any  mountain  range  or  physical  barrier  of  any  kind,  one  would  have 
thought  that  some  explorations  of  Turkish  Yemen  would  have  been 
made,  and  some  interest  in  its  condition  displayed  by  us.  On  the  con- 
trary, we  are  mainly  indebted  to  an  enterprising  Italian,  Eenzo  Manzoni, 
for  what  information  we  possess  respecting  it,  and  the  map  made  by 
that  officer  is  the  only  one  of  any  value  that  we  have.  This  map,  which 
is  published  by  Stanford,  was  my  sole  guide  during  my  own  tour,  and 
I  found  it  to  be  exceedingly  accurate  along  the  route  which  I  took 
until,  on  my  way  southward  from  Sanaa,  I  entered  British  territory. 
There  it  is  full  of  mistakes;  Manzoni  probably  filled  it  in  from 
information  obtained  in  Aden. 

My  own  object  in  visiting  Yemen  (the  ancient  Arabia  Felix)  was  to 
see  what  the  country  was  like,  and  to  learn  something  of  the  condition 
of  its  inhabitants,  with  a  view  to  ascertaining  whether  it  might  be 
possible  to  do  anything  for  their  Christianisation.  The  route  I 
marked  out  for  myself  and  which  I  was  enabled  to  follow,  was  from 
Hodeida  on  the  western  coast  to  Sanaa,  the  capital,  a  distance  of 
140  miles,  and  from  Sanaa  due  south  to  Aden,  260  miles.  Including  a 
week  spent  in  Sanaa,  the  journey  occupied  in  all  thirty-one  days.  I 
was  accompanied  by  Ibrahim,  the  Bible  Society's  agent  at  Aden,  a  very 
worthy  man,  who,  though  he  knows  no  English,  understood  my  bad 
Arabic  sufficiently  to  put  it  into  good  and  intelligent  Arabic  for  me, 
and  so  acted  as  interpreter.  I  had  a  Somali  servant,  an  exceedingly 
active,  intelligent,  energetic  fellow,  who  proved  himself  quite  equal  to 
any  travelling  servant  I  ever  had  in  India.  Mules  were  the  animals 
selected  to  carry  us,  as  being  on  the  whole  more  comfortable  to  ride 


480 


A  JODRNEY  THROUGH  YEMEN. 


than  either  camelfl  or  donkeys,  tliongh  a  little  dearer.  The  Yemen 
miiles  are  small,  sturdy,  compact  animala,  capable  of  any  amoimt  of 
fatigne,  and  seemingly  of  climbing  wherever  a  goat  can  climb,  while  to 
my  astonishment  I  fonnd  that  the  camels  would  go  wherever  a  mule 
willp  Including  tlie  two  muleteers  we  were  a  party  of  five.  The 
charge  per  mule  was  4  dollars,  which,  according  to  Arab  cnstom,  I  had 
to  pay  down  in  full  before  starting.  Before  describing  our  journey  I 
may  hero  give  a  few  particulars  about  Ilodeida,  our  starting-point. 

I  had  previously  viaited  Jeddfih^  Suakin,  and  MasBowah,  and  was 
surprised  to  find  Hodeida  the  busiest  place  of  the  four.  There  was 
more  life  and  movement  in  the  streets  and  crowded  bazaars  thnn  I  had 
eeen  elsewhere,  more  signs  of  trade  and  buninees  generally.  Being  tho 
principal  port  of  Yemen,  most  of  the  coffee  and  hides  which  aro  the 
fitaplc  exports  of  the  country  are  shipped  from  here.  The  popula- 
tion may  be  from  25,000  to  3 0,000,  including  that  in  the  fiulnirbs 
outside  the  walls.  Within  the  walls  the  houses,  which  aro  mostly  from 
three  to  four  Btories  in  height,  are  crowded  together^  the  streets  being 
mere  narrow  lanes  six  to  nine  feet  in  width*  The  bazaars  are  extensive, 
and  roofed  over  with  poles  and  mats  laid  across  to  keep  out  the  sun. 
The  town  is  no  cleaner  than  most  Arab  towns^  but  superior  iu  this 
reapect  to  Jeddah.  Tho  water  supply  is  poor,  derived  from  wells  at 
some  distance  from  the  town,  The  market  is  fairly  supplied  with  fniit 
and  vegetables.  There  aro  about  half-a-dozen  English  and  Americans 
resident,  and  a  good  many  Gre4fks  and  other  Levantines.  There  is  no 
harbour,  but  simply  an  open  roadstead,  the  steamers  lying  a  mile  and  a 
half  off  the  shore,  but  there  is  a  pier,  in  somewhat  rickety  condition,  at 
which  goods  are  ahipijcd  and  landed.  There  is  a  vice-consul,  a  Mtihom- 
medan  gentleman  on  the  Bombay  Medical  Establishment,  from  whom  I 
received  much  kindness,  and  who  is  also  inspector  of  the  quarantine 
arrangements  at  the  island  of  Camaran,  to  the  noilh,  during  the  season 
of  the  Haj. 

We  started  for  Sanaa,  a  party  of  five,  on  the  evening  of  tho  29th 
Januarj^  We  had  no  guard  of  any  kind,  all  the  information  I  received 
at  Hodeida  tending  to  show  there  was  no  necessity  for  such  a  precaution. 
There  may,  no  doubt »  have  been  so  in  former  times,  but  the  iron  rule  of 
the  Turks  has  at  least  rendered  this,  the  most  frequented  and  important 
line  of  communication  in  the  country,  comparatively  safe  for  travellers- 
For  the  first  twenty-five  miles  the  road  lies  across  a  gently  undulaiing 
plain,  covered  with  low  thorny  buehes  aud  tufts  of  coarse  gras«.  Thijs 
is  the  Tehama,  and  no  doubt  intensely  hot  in  summer.  Then,  as  a  low 
line  of  hills  is  approacheil,  bigns  of  cultivation  begin  to  appear,  fields  of 
dharm  and  doUtn  (kinds  of  miilet),  and  three  or  four  small  villages  are 
passed,  the  name  of  one  of  these,  '*  Deir  el  Hoonood,"  the  monastery  of 
the  Hindus,  suggeating  the  idea  that  there  may  l>e  truth  in  the  tradition 
that  there  was  formerly  a  considerable  body  of  Indians  in  thia  |>art  of 


A  JOURNEY  THROUGH  YEMEN.  481 

Yemen.  The  plain,  though  somewhat  narrowed  by  the  approach  of  the 
hills  on  both  sides,  continues  on  to  Bajol,  a  place  of  some  importance, 
about  a  fourth  the  size  of  Hodeida,  with  a  somewhat  dilapidated  fort, 
very  solidly  built  with  cut  stone,  and  a  large  population  of  weavers  and 
dyers. 

At  this  point  the  hills  rise  to  the  proportions  of  mountains,  the  valley 
between,  up  which  the  road  runs,  turning  to  the  south-east,  its  surface 
gravelly  in  most  parts,  but  having  a  good  deal  of  cultivation,  and  trees 
such  as  acacias,  dotted  here  and  there  over  it.  This  is  its  character  for 
the  next  ten  miles,  after  which  the  road  enters  and  winds  among  low 
spurs,  but  passing  frequently  through  cultivated  lands  and  patches  of 
forest  of  considerable  height,  and  gradually  becoming  rougher  and  more 
hilly  until  finally  El  Hujjela  is  reached,  at  a  distance  of  about  seventy- 
five  miles  from  Hodeida. 

We  reached  this  place  long  after  dark,  and  put  up  at  the  Eahwa 
(coffee-house)  or  travellers'  rest-house,  a  large  open  thatched  shed,  which 
was  brilliantly  lighted  up  by  a  good  kerosine  lamp,  which  seemed 
strangely  out  of  place  in  such  a  situation.  Large  quantities  of  kerosine 
are,  however,  imported  into  Yemen.  Much  of  it  is  sent  to  Sanaa,  and 
the  kerosine  cans  are  commonly  used  for  carrying  water  at  Hodeida  and 
elsewhere,  as  the  taste  of  the  water  sometimes  makes  very  plain.  Hujjela 
I  found  by  aneroid  to  be  1780  feet  above  sea. 

At  this  point  the  road  enters  the  mountains,  which  towered  grandly 
above  the  little  town  situated  near  their  foot.  And  here  not  only  the 
character  of  the  scenery  changed,  but  also  that  of  the  towns  and  villages. 
In  the  plains  they  are  built  of  mud,  with  thatched  roofs.  Throughout 
the  mountainous  country  they  are  all  built  of  solid  stone,  the  houses 
being  often  of  two  to  three  stories  in  height,  clustered  closely  around 
the  Zmr/,  or  tower,  which  rises  in  the  centre  to  a  considerable  height 
above  its  surroundings.  The  burj  has  usually  been  the  residence  of  the 
Sheikh,  and  would  serve  the  purpose  also  of  a  watch-tower.  Hujjela 
was  the  first  of  this  kind  of  villages  that  we  came  to,  and  I  found,  on 
rising  in  the  morning  and  taking  a  survey  of  the  place  and  the  sur- 
rounding country,  that  we  had  now  indeed  entered  Yemen  proper. 

A  mile  or  two  outside  of  the  town  the  road  enters  the  mountains, 
following  the  bed  of  a  torrent  strewn  with  enormous  boulders,  having 
many  fine  trees  along  its  banks,  but  diy  at  the  time  of  our  visit.  The 
mountains  rose  steeply  on  both  sides  several  thousand  feet  in  height, 
but  with  little  vegetation  on  their  lower  slopes.  Higher  up  we  saw 
terraces,  and  higher  still  large  patches  of  coffee  clustering  in  the  ravines. 
As  we  advanced  the  torrent  bed  became  steeper  and  more  difficult.  The 
toilsome  ascent  was,  however,  relieved  by  the  magnificence  of  the  sceneiy. 
Openings  in  the  mountains  on  both  sides  revealed  other  ranges  rising 
up  to  6000  and  7000  feet,  their  rugged  tops  crowned  at  many  points  by 
villages,  while  other  villages,  surrounded  by  coffee  plantations,  nestled 


482 


A  JOURNEY  THROUGH  YEMEN. 


OB  their  slopes*  One  of  thesa  views  I  shall  never  forget,  whero  a  pile  of 
monntainfi  rose  steeply  up,  one  above  the  other,  like  a  huge  pyramid,  on 
the  top  of  which,  through  the  clear  air,  we  could  distinctly  see,  at  a 
height  of  8000  feet,  the  invariable  village^  its  burj  standi ing  clearly  out 
against  the  sky,  the  exquisitely  auft  and  rich  colourieg  of  the  whole 
being  bej'ond  deBcription* 

After  following  tho  torrent  bed  some  miles  farther,  the  road,  or  rather 
pathway  (for  it  must  bo  understood  that  there  is  no  such  thing  as  a  made 
road  in  the  country)  turned  suddenly  out  of  it  and  followed  a  zigzag  np 
the  steep  mountain  side,  ©very  bit  of  which  was  terraced  and  cultivated* 
Far  above  ub,  at  a  hoight  which  I  afterwards  found  to  he  4660  feet, 
we  could  see  the  village,  burj,  and  kahwa  (coffue -house),  where  wo  were 
to  rest  a  while.  We  reached  this  about  noon,  and  after  a  cup  of  coffee, 
commenced  the  ascent  once  more.  Hero  I  began  for  tho  first  time  to 
form  some  conception  of  the  meaning  of  the  magnificent  scene  around 
me,  Tho  viUago  was  perched,  as  the  villages  always  are^  on  top  of  a 
precipitous  mass  of  rock  at  the  end  of  a  bpur,  and  from  it  I  looked  down 
2000  feet  into  the  torrent  bed  below,  and  4000  feet  up  to  the  top  of  the 
mountain,  and  eveiywhere,  both  abovo  and  below,  to  the  right  and  to 
the  left,  I  saw  nothing  hut  terraces.  The  whole  mountain  Bide,  for  a 
height  of  6000  feet,  was  terraced  from  top  to  bottom.  The  crops  had  all 
been  removed ;  only  some  lines  of  coffee  trees  here  and  there  were  to  be 
seeUj  but  everywhere,  above,  below,  and  all  around,  these  endless  flights 
of  terrace  walls  met  th©  eye.  One  can  hardly  conceive  the  enormous 
amount  of  labour,  toil,  and  perseverance  which  these  represent.  The 
terrace  walls  are  usually  from  five  to  eight  feet  in  height,  but  towards 
the  top  of  the  mountain  they  are  much  higher,  being  sometimes  as  much 
as  15  and  18  feet.  They  are  built  entirely  of  rough  stone,  laid  without 
mortar.  I  reckoned  on  an  average  that  each  wall  retains  a  terrao©  not 
moro  than  twice  its  own  height  in  width.  So  eteep,  in  fact,  is  the 
mountain,  that  th©  zigzag  continues  almost  the  whole  way  to  the  top- 
It  has  been  made  with  considerable  care,  and  though  its  surface  is  often 
rough  and  broken,  th©  wall  which  retains  it  is  generally  in  good  repair. 
This  was  indeed  the  most  striking  charact  oris  tic  of  the  whole  mass  of 
terrace  walls,  the  excellent  condition  in  which  they  ar©  maintained.  I 
do  not  think  I  saw  a  single  breach  in  one  of  them  unrepaired.  It  is 
impossible  not  to  feel  that  a  race  which  baa  erected  such  a  marvellous 
monument  of  human  industry  as  this  on©  mountain  side  displays, 
possesses  capacities  fitting  it  not  only  for  a  far  higher  civilisation,  but 
for  no  mean  place  in  the  scale  of  nationalities.  The  whole  of  the  crops 
are  grown  on  these  terraces,  wheat  and  barley,  oofie©  and  indigo,  fruits 
and  vegetables*  W©  reached  th©  top  of  the  mountain,  which  we  crossed 
at  its  lowest  point,  about  sunset,  when  it  was  wrapped  in  clouds ^and 
mist.  Its  height  by  aneroid  was  8000  feet.  We  then  descended  the 
other  side  to  Menakha,  which  is  situated  at  a  height  of  7610  feet,  and 


A  JOURHEY  THROUGH  YEMEN. 


483 


86  miles  distant  from  Hodeida.    Here  we  found  ourfielvos  in  quite  a 
pleasant  climate,  the  temperature  about  65^. 

Menakha  may  have  a  population  of  4000.  It  has  a  Turkish  garrison, 
and  is  an  important  Btrategical  position.  It  is  commanded  from  more 
than  one  point  on  the  mountain,  and  there  forts  have  been  erected.  I 
was  imprudent  enough  to  make  a  sketch  of  it  from  a  neighbouriug  hill, 
which  led  to  some  polite  inquiries  by  the  Commandant,  and  a  telegraphio 
message  to  the  Governor-General  at  Sanaa,  but  not  to  any  very  serious 
difficulty.  It  may  be  mentioned  here  that  there  is  a  telegraph  line  from 
Hodeida,  via  Menakha,  to  Sanaa,  which  appears  to  be  kept  in  pretty 
good  order,  though  merchants  at  Hodeida  say  it  is  sometimes  quicker  to 
«and  by  post,  though  that  is  only  once  a  week. 

Leaving  Meuakha  the  road  de&cenils  the  eastern  face  of  the  monntain 
for  2700  feet  by  a  far  steeper  and  rougher  path  than  that  on  the  opposite 
face.  It  is  in  fact  for  much  of  the  way  simply  a  ateep  pile  of  boulders, 
■down  which  one  wonders  how  the  little  mules  contrive  to  keep  their 
feet.  Here,  however,  and  in  wore©  places  further  on,  it  is  still  more 
surprising  to  meet  or  overtake  strings  of  loaded  camels  pursuing  their 
'w&y  with  as  much  composure  as  if  they  were  simply  crossing  a  plain. 
The  descent  is  down  the  end  of  a  ravine,  into  a  torrent  leading  out  into 
broken  hilly  country  at  a  general  level  of  5000  to  5500  feet,  with  but 
little  cultivation.  The  trees  and  shrubs  were  here,  as  indeed  almost 
■everywhere  else,  scanty,  and  at  that  season  for  the  most  part  leafless- 
ilefaq  was  the  halting-place  for  tho  night,  the  khan  where  we  stopped 
being  5860  feet  above  sea,  and  the  town  and  fort  some  500  feet  higher. 

We  were  late  in  starting  next  morning,  and  halted  for  an  hour  at 
noon  at  Suk  el  Khamis,  7740  feet  above  sea.  We  were  now  steadily 
lising  as  we  proceeded.  It  was  very  cold,  and  though  wrapi»ed  in 
my  warmest  clothes,  I  could  hardly  keep  myself  warm.  After  leaving 
Suk  el  Khamis,  the  path  rises  by  exceedingly  steep  inclines  up  the 
almost  precipitous  side  of  a  mountain,  growing  worse  and  worse  as  we 
proceeded,  tho  mules  climbing  over  great  buulders  and  trotting  over 
emooth  rocks  on  the  edge  of  terrific  precipices.  At  last  we  reached  the 
highest  point  of  the  pass,  10,010  feet,  the  hills  on  each  side  of  the  path 
being  about  400  feet  higher.  Here  a  great  extent  of  toiTacing  was  in 
«ight.  Then  there  was  a  rapid  descent  to  a  stream,  the  bed  of  which 
was  0600,  and  this  continued  to  be  about  tho  average  level  of  the  co  tin  try 
for  several  miles  on  to  Selim  Basha,  a  small  village  where  we  jiassed  the 
night,  sixteen  miles  distant  from  Sanaa.  The  views  thi±;  day  were 
indeeorihably  magnificent,  especially  from  the  highest  part  of  the  pass. 
Far  away  on  the  horizon  westward  were  ranges  which  seemed  quite  as 
high,  while  all  between  was  an  endless  succession  of  mountains,  ravines, 
•valleys,  precipices,  and  rocky  heights  crowned  by  villages,  tlie  whole 
lit  up  by  a  brilliant  sunshine,  the  rich  and  varied  tints  of  the  nearer  hills 
^adually  passing  into  the  soft  misty  purples  of  the  more  distant  rauges. 

No,  VIIL— Aug.  1887-]  2  n 


4S4 


A  JOURNEY  THROUGH  YEMEK. 


After  cTOBsin^  tbo  stream  above -mentioned,  a  few  hundred  feet 
"below  tlie  highest  poiut  of  the  pass,  iho  road  lay  through  a  country  of 
qtiite  a  new  character;  a  siicceBsion  of  steppes,  gently  sloping  valley s> 
generally  terraced  and  cultivated,  from  half  a  mile  to  a  njile  in  width, 
between  low  hills  of  trap,  each  steppe  separated  fnun  the  next  by  a 
fihort  fiharp  descent.  This  is  the  character  of  the  whole  highlands  of 
Yemen,  as  far  aa  I  was  able  to  judge.  It  contimiod  up  to  a  point  a  few 
miles  from  Sanaa,  where  a  eudden  turn  brought  us  within  sight  of  the 
town  lying  2000  feet  below  in  a  broad  flat  valley  aome  miles  in  width, 
and  extending  in  a  north-east  and  south  dir -ction  as  far  as  the  eye 
f>ou!d  reach.  The  descent  into  the  plain  is  rapid,  and  in  another  hour 
or  two  I  was  resting  beneath  the  hospittible  roof  of  the  Messrs.  Caprolti, 
two  Italian  gentlemen,  w^ho  received  me  with  the  utmost  kindness  and 
made  me  their  guest  dnring  the  six  days  I  spent  in  Sanaa, 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  to  reach  Sftnaa  I  had  to  surmount  an 
elevation  of  10,000  feet.  The  map  seems  to  show  that  by  a  more 
sontherly  route  this  may  be  avoided,  and  that,  a  practicable  road  might 
be  made  with  far  less  st^rions  obstacles.  My  aneroid  made  the  height 
of  Sanaa  above  the  sea  7700  feet.  Mr.  Glascr,  an  Anstrian  savant  who 
has  recently  been  exploring  the  antiquities  of  the  countrj%  I  was  told, 
makes  it  7281  feet,  a  di6ference  of  about  0  per  cent. 

The  town  of  SanEui  is  entirely  snrronnded  by  a  wall,  partly  earthen, 
partly  brick,  of  some  miles  in  circuit,  and  enclosing  a  space  which 
evidently  once  contained  a  popnlation  very  much  larger  than  the 
present,  which  is  rouglily  calcubited  at  30,000  to  35,000  souls.  The 
liiTgo  Jewish  quarter,  with  a  popnlation  of  5000,  is  separated  from  the 
Mabommcdan  parts  of  the  town  by  a  broad  space  of  150  yards  in  width. 
The  bouses  are  from  three  to  fonr  stories  in  height^  built  of  «tone  in 
most  cases,  quite  destitute  of  any  architectural  beauty,  but  with  a  good 
deal  of  ornament aticin  of  a  peculiar  kind  on  the  walls  and  around  the 
windows.  An  objection  was  made  by  the  Wali,  or  Governor-General,  to 
my  sketching,  and  I  could  obtain  no  photographs,  I  was  therefore 
ubiiged  to  leave  without  bringing  away  with  me  any  illustrations  of  a 
style  of  architecture  differing  mnch  from  anj-thing  I  had  seen  elsewhere/ 
The  bazaars  are  poor,  and  the  w*hole  aspect  of  the  town  corresponded  to 
the  social  condition  of  its  inhabitants  as  de.^crihed  to  mo,  an  Arab  popn- 
lation  intensely  hating  the  few  thousand  I'nrks  by  whom  it  is  held 
down,  heavily  taxed,  and  generally  obliged  to  furnish  gratis  the  supplies 
requiied  for  the  large  garrison  of  Turkish  soldiers.  The  latter  ai-o  not 
allowed  to  go  into  the  narrow  streets  for  fear  of  assassination.  They 
seemed  to  be  well  fed,  but  often  badly  clothed.  There  is  a  citadel  at 
one  part  of  the  walls,  with  its  guns  turned  signifieantly  not  to  the 
outside,  but  upon  the  town.  LaTge  barracks  are  being  constructed,  and 
there  is  a  large  military  hospital,  ivhich  I  gathered  from  an  application 
I  made,  it  was  not  wished  that  I  should  see.    The  water  supply  is  good, 


A  JOURNEY  THROUGH  YEMEN. 


485 


beiog  <lerivod  from  wells  sunk  to  great  deptlia  in  the  rock.  Vast  heaps 
of  ruhbiBh  hnre  and  thore  show  where  ex  tensive  htiildings  must  onco 
have  stood,  aad  I  was  shown  the  few  and  scarcoly  distintrntBhablo  ruins 
of  a  Christian  church  of  pre-Iislamio  times.  I  called  Upon  the  Grovemor- 
General,  and  must  do  him  the  justice  to  say  that*  in  spite  of  tho 
biiapicions  circumstances  in  which  I  was  first  brought  to  his  notice,  and 
of  my  having  neither  letter  of  introduction,  passport,  nor  even  a  printed 
visiting  card,  he  received  me  graciously,  and  gi-anted  mo  perraisaion  to 
proceed  direct  to  Aden,  instead  of  returning  to  Hodeida.  He  had  much 
to  ask  about  Egypt  and  the  Soudan*  and  espooijilly  about  India^  wiBhiog 
to  know  if  any  jmrt  of  it  correaponded  in  its  phvsicitl  charactenstics  to 
Yemen.  I  told  him  of  the  Himalayas  and  of  Darjiling,  which,  though 
situated  at  a  similar  height,  7000  feet,  to  Sanaa,  is  connected  with  the 
plains  and  Calcntta  by  rail-  There  appears  to  bo  no  reason  why  Sanaa 
should  not  be  similarly  connected  with  the  port.  Probably,  it  would  not 
be  necessary  to  surmount  any  greater  height  than  8000  feet,  and  tho 
pc^culiar  steppe  formation  of  the  highlands  would  greatly  facilitate  the 
extension  of  the  line  in  two  or  three  directions. 

The  Jewish  p  •pulalion  of  Sanaa  appeared  to  be  generally  well-to-do. 
Their  quarter  was  clean,  their  houses  models  of  neatness  and  cl«fauUuess. 
They  have  twenty-three  synagogues,  and  twenty  sohooL*  with  70i>  hoys 
in  them.  The  whole  male  population  can  reatl,  few  of  tho  females, 
Th  y  are  tho  masons  and  artiticei"8,  and  are  preterred  to  the  Mahom- 
mcdans  as  servants  by  tho  few  Europeans,  as  being  both  cleaner,  more 
intelligent,  and  more  trustworthy.  They  reckon  their  total  numberH  in 
Yemen  at  60,000.  We  found  thein  in  almost  every  town  and  village 
that  we  stopped  at. 

Before  describing  the  road  southwards  to  Aden  I  may  hero  give 
some  information  as  to  the  cliaiate  and  productions  of  high  Yemen. 

There  are  two  rainy  seasons,  in  spring  and  autumn.  No  measure  of 
the  rainfall  ha«  ever  been  taken,  but  tho  rain  is  said  to  come  down  in 
torrents,  generally  falling  every  day,  but  only  for  a  few  hours.  I  was 
shown  one  p  *rt  of  Sanaa  where  the  drainage  flows  in  a  perfect  river  at 
such  times.  The  temperature  in  winter  often  falls  below  freezing-point 
during  the  night,  and  in  tho  hottest  season  the  thermometer  does  not 
rise  above  80^  in  the  open  air  in  the  shade.  Tiie  temperature  in  th© 
houses,  which  have  lliiok  wails,  remains  at  about  62^  all  the  year 
round.  Last  year  was  one  of  alaiost  total  failure  of  rain.  The  country 
conseq^uently,  when  I  passed  through  it,  had  an  exceedingly  parched, 
dricd-up  appearance,  and  tho  temperature  was  higher  than  UHual  at 
that  season.  The  thermometer  was  about  45^  in  the  open  air  in  the 
early  morning,  hut  never  rose  above  C2^  in  the  house  in  Sanaa, 
This  failure  of  the  rainfall  leads  me  to  remark  upon  what  is  pro- 
liably  the  chief  cause  of  it,  viz,  the  almost  total  deforesting  of  the 
moimtainB  above  the  GOOC^  feet  leveL     The  utter  barcmss  of  the  soil, 

2  N  2 


4@6 


A  JOUENEV  THROUGH  YEMEN. 


tlie  almost  total  absenoe  of  either  trees  or  bnebea,  was  a  markod  and 
painful  feature  of  the  greater  part  of  the  liigliland  plateaux  which  I 
traversed.  The  people  themselves  seemed  to  have  no  traditioBB  of 
there  ever  having  been  more  vegetation  on  the  surface,  but  looking  at 
the  fact  that  below  the  level  I  have  mentioned  both  trees  and  shrubs 
were  certainly  much  more  niiuierous,  though  the  soil  was  inferior  and 
the  rainfall  must  bo  less,  while  the  population  ia  less  numerous,  1 
think  there  can  be  little  doubt  that  the  denudation  of  the  mountains  is 
simply  due  to  the  reckless  destruction  of  the  forests  by  an  ignorant  and 
yet  numerous  population,  and  the  neglect  of  any  efforts  to  replace  them 
hy  fresh  planting.  If  so,  the  seasons  have  no  doubt  deteriorated,  and 
the  rainfall  is  scantier  and  more  precarious  than  formerly.  Still  there 
are  evidentlj^  springs  in  all  directions  all  over  the  mountains  j  it  is  im- 
possible that  under  any  other  conditions  could  the  villages  be  perched, 
as  they  always  are,  upon  the  highest  and  most  inaccessible  points. 

All  the  streams  we  passed  had  fish  in  them.  In  the  large  Wady 
Banna  there  were  shoals  of  fish  ae  much  as  six  inches  in  length,  and  I 
was  told  that  in  Sanaa  fish  can  sometimes  be  bought  up  to  12  lb&  in 
weight. 

Irrigation  is  nniversally  practised,  the  available  water  supply  being 
distributed  by  the  hour  to  the  lands  entitled  to  it,  the  Arabs  being  very 
clever  at  judging  the  time  by  measuring,  foot  by  foot,  the  length  of  the 
shadow.  The  task  of  distribution  does  not  always  fall  upon  the  sheikh 
of  the  village,  bnt  more  commonly  npon  some  one  of  the  elders  having 
a  reputation  for  honesty  and  fairness.  The  soil  is  rich;  two  crops  a 
year  appears  to  be  the  rule  everywhere,  and  with  irrigation  three  and 
four.  The  tillage  is  excellent.  The  plough,  though  it  only  turns  up  the 
soil  to  the  depth  of  a  few  inches,  is  often  followed  by  a  large  sort  of  hoo, 
something  like  a  street-scraper,  by  means  of  which  the  loosened  soil  is 
turned  over  transversely,  one  man  holding  the  sci'aper  and  two  others 
dragging  it  by  a  rope  attached  to  it.  Land  is  freely  bought  and  sold 
within  each  tribe,  and  is  inherited  from  the  father  in  equal  portions  by 
the  children,  except  that  a  daughter*^  share  is  only  one-half  the  son^s. 

The  Yemenis  appear  to  be  a  prolific  race.  We  saw  everywhere  great 
numbers  of  children.  The  woman  in  charge  of  the  khan  in  one  village 
that  we  passed  through  had  ten  children.  On  my  expressing  surprise 
I  was  assured  that  that  number  was  not  nncommon,  and  was  told  of 
another  woman  in  the  village  who  had  had  fifteen  sons,  every  one  of 
whom,  it  was  added,  died  on  the  battle-field. 

In  spite  of  all  their  toil  and  labour,  and  the  wonderful  industry 
with  which  they  terrace  and  cultivate  the  land,  the  people  generally 
looked  poor,  often  miserably  so.  Their  clothing  ia  of  the  meanest;  a 
sheepskin  coat,  the  wool  turned  inside^  is  the  most  important  garment 
of  the  men.  The  taxation  is,  I  fear,  heavy  and  capricious.  It  is  con* 
stantly  collected  only  by  military  force*     A  Turkish  official  told  me 


• 


A  JOURNEY  THROUGH  YEMEN. 


487 


that  defaulters  are  Bometimes  tied  to  the  mnzzle  of  a  loaded  £e1d-pie€e. 
If  the  threat  never  goes  ftii  ther  than  this,  one  can  hardly  suppose  it 
likely  to  have  any  effiect,  while  yet  one  shrinks  from  imputing  even  to 
the  Turka,  in  the  absence  of  positive  evidence,  such  horrible  barbarity  as 
the  consnmmation  of  the  threat  woidd  imply.  But  passion  and  hate  run 
high  on  both  sides.  Whole  villagea  are  sometimes  razed,  and  the  Turks 
have  more  than  once  marched .  back  to  Sanaa  with  the  Arabs'  heads  on 
the  points  of  their  bayonets.  It  is  needless  to  say  that  not  one  farthing 
of  the  taxes  taken  ftom  the  people  is  letumed  to  them  in  any  shape  oi* 
form  whatever. 

The  productions  of  Yemen  are  numerous.  Coffee,  indigo^  and  other 
dyes  are  the  most  important.  Vegetables  of  all  kinds  are  abundant; 
some,  such  as  cabbages^  cauliflowers,  ifec.,  growing  to  an  enormous  size  and 
weight.  There  is  a  profusion  of  fruit — grapes,  figs,  walnuts,  peaches, 
apricots,  pears,  &c.  Grapes,  I  was  told,  are  to  be  had  during  half  the 
year,  and  of  large  size  and  excellent  flavour. 

The  principal  exports  are  coffee  and  hides.  There  is  a  nominal 
export  duty  of  only  1  per  cent,,  but  actually  the  amount  levied  is  nearer 
20  or  25  per  cent.  The  fiscal  system  of  the  Turks,  if  it  were  really 
carried  into  effect,  would  be  by  no  means  bad,  but  like  every  other  depart- 
ment of  the  Government,  it  is  ruined  by  the  utter  corruption  that  prevails 
in  every  branch  of  the  administration  from  top  to  bottom.  No  more 
eloquent  expounders  of  the  evils  and  hopeleesness  of  their  whole  system 
are  to  be  found  than  the  Turks  themselves,  as  I  found  from  conversations 
wilh  two  or  three  of  their  own  officials. 

The  road  from  Sanaa  to  Aden  runs  at  first  for  many  miles  in  a  nearly 
southerly  direction,  but  a  Greek  having  lieen  murdered  on  it,  one  or  two 
marches  from  Sanaa,  a  few  days  before  I  started,  I  was  taken  by  a  more 
circuitous  route,  via  Walan  and  Ma'ahar.  For  the  firat  twenty -five  miles 
the  road  runs  through  a  broad  valley,  slowly  rising  until  at  length  the 
hills  enclosing  it  are  crossed  at  a  height  of  9600  feet.  There  is  then  a 
steep  descent  by  a  broad  zigzag  path,  which  still  has  some  remains  of 
the  massive  paving  which  covered  it  in  the  times  of  the  Arab  dynasties. 
This  leads  to  a  great  plain  at  least  twenty  miles  in  length,  and  from  three 
to  five  miles  in  widths  cultivated  in  parts,  many  wells  being  in  use  for 
this  purpose,  and  having  a  few  villages  scattered  over  it.  Ma*abar,  which 
is  one  of  these,  where  we  stopped  for  the  night,  is  8Q80  feet  above  the 
sea.  The  plain  extends  some  miles  further,  and  the  road  then  rises  on 
to  a  vast  flat  plateau  of  trap,  quite  bare  for  a  mile  or  two,  then  disinte- 
grated into  a  soil  which  is  extensively  cultivated.  The  highest  point  in 
this  plateau  was  at  the  village  of  Darrab,  8510  feet.  Bhamar,  an  im» 
portant  town  of  some  thousands  of  inhabitants,  and  having  a  Turkish 
garrison,  is  situated  at  the  southern  end  of  the  plateau.  It  bears 
throughout  the  marks  of  Turkish  rule — decay,  poverty,  and  squalor. 
There  are  some  mosques,  and  two  or  three  minarets,  all,  like  most  of  the 


488 


A  JOURNEY  THEOUGH  YEMEN. 


miDai^ts  in  Sanaa  and  elBewhere,  out  of  the  perpendicular.  On©  bad 
been  nearly  brought  down  by  a  shot  from  a  Turkish  cannon  during  some 
emeute^  wheo  the  Arabs  totik  refuge  in  the  mosque,  and  the  Tnrka  fired 
upon  it. 

Proceeding  southwards  from  Dhamar,  the  road  lies  over  great  sheets 
of  trjip  for  some  distance,  and  through  a  very  broken  mountaiDoua  country 
to  Yerinij  an  important  town  about  the  size  of  Dhaiuar,  92(50  feet  above 
the  sea.  Yerim  is  80  miles  from  Sanaa,  and  170  miles  from  Aden,  Hero 
we  met  for  the  first  time  with  quarter  rupees  and  two-anna  bits  in  the 
bazaar,  marking  the  limits  to  which  British  ci4nage  has  penetrated. 
Elsewhere  the  Austnan  dollar  and  some  copper  coins  were  the  only  coins 
to  be  seen,  and  theae  are  in  fact,  as  a  rule,  the  only  kind  of  money  in 
which  the  Arabs  believe.  When  I  paid  oft  my  camel-men  in  Adt^n  they 
refused  to  take  rupees^  and  insisted  on  having  dollars  instead. 

Afttir  leaving  Yerim,  the  rua'l  ran  for  many  miles  through  a  series  of 
broad  valleys,  well  cultivated,  wirh  a  go<Ki  deal  of  irrigation.  Then  a 
sudden  descent  of  several  hundrefi  feet  took  us  into  the  bed  of  a  torrent, 
which  led  out  into  a  much  larger  valley  between  high  mountains,  scarped 
and  precipitous  at  the  top,  but  their  lower  slopes  beautifully  terracetl 
and  irrigated,  and  dotted  over  witli  numerous  villages.  We  found  we 
were  in  the  valley  of  the  Wady  Bunna.  The  road,  which  was  only  a 
few  feet  in  width,  ran  along  the  steep  side  of  a  mountain  at  a  giddy 
height  above  the  river  at  its  foot,  but  about  sunset  we  descended  into 
the  Wady  and  croshcd  the  stream,  wliich  was  flowing  with  a  rapid 
current  about  tliirty  feet  in  width  and  eighteen  inches  deep.  Its  bod  I 
found  to  be  71 10  ft?et  above  the  sea. 

The  whole  road  south  of  Yerim  lay  through  a  country  much  greener 
than  any  we  had  yet  t^een ;  there  was  much  grass  and  turf,  and  small 
bushes  covering  the  hill  slojxjs  gave  theni  quite  an  appearance  of  verdure. 
All  the  way  south  of  S  "naa  wo  found  bushes  and  trees  along  the  margins 
of  the  streams,  but  south  of  Yerim  the  country  looked  as  if  there  must 
bo  a  more  abundant  rainfall.  Certainly  there  was  a  marked  change  in 
the  appearance  of  verdui'e  everywhere. 

The  next  day's  journey  was  one  of  great  fatigue.  The  rf>ad  lay 
through  a  very  wild  country,  and  at  length  towards  evening  gradually 
ascended  to  the  top  of  a  mountain  range  which  we  crossed  at  its  lowest 
point,  81310  feet.  We  then  descended  1900  feet  down  the  other  side  by 
the  steepest  and  most  difficult  path  we  had  yet  traversed.  It  was 
wonderful  bow  the  mules  kept  their  feet  at  all.  The  difficulty  was 
increased  by  our  meeting  stririgs  of  loaded  camels  and  donkeys  carrying 
U])  tobacco,  cloth,  and  other  things  from  Aden  to  Sanaa. 

A  march  of  30  miles  next  day  through  mountains  moro  wooded  tbnn 
any  we  had  seen  before  brought  us  to  Qataba,  the  frontier  customs 
town  of  Turkish  Yemen,  W^e  crossed  the  frontier  the  following  day  at 
El  Gblile  and  entered  the  territory  of  the  protected  tribes,  which  is  here 


■ 


A  JOEIENEY  THROUGH  YEMEK.— DISCUSSION. 


489 


at  an  elevation  of  4000  feet  above  sea.  In  the  first  part  of  tke  80  miles 
loetween  this  point  and  Aflon  tho  descent  is  rapid.  The  hotter  plains 
are  then  reached,  hut  these  furnish  no  Subjects  of  any  interest  for  remark, 
I  sent  off  my  camels  with  my  servent  to  Aden,  but  myself,  with  Ibrahim, 
struck  off  on  foot  in  a  south-east  direction  through  tlie  Abian  country 
to  Shugra  on  the  coa&t,  where  we  found  a  boat  and  by  it  made  our  way 
back  to  Aden,  soiu©  60  miles,  by  sea. 

The  country  which  I  have  described  does  not  appear  to  be  the  finest 
part  of  Yemen.    I  was  told  that  the  finest  country  in  point  of  population 
and  pToduotionB   lies   to  the   north  of  Sanaa*     The   mountain  region 
extends  quite  300  miles  north  of  that  place  into  Assir.     The  watei'shed 
would  appear  to  be  some  distance  to  tho  east  of  the  meridian  of  Sanaa, 
but  the  country  there  has  been  very  little  explored.     Enough  bats,  how- 
oyer,  perhaps  been  said  to  show  that  tho  whole  of  this  part  of  Arabia  is 
deserving  of  greater  attention  and  more  carefMl  investigation  than  have 
yet  been  bestowed  upon  it*     Much  of  it  posse  Bses  a  climate  quite  sail  able 
for  European  coL  ►nisiation.     In  addition  to  coffees  which  is  indigenous, 
and  the  cultivation  of  which  is  probably  capable  of  considerable  ex- 
tension, Yemen  is  said  to  possess  mineral  riches.     I  w*as  told  by  two 
Europeans  that  they  had  themselves  seen  coal,  and  that  there  is  much 
sulphur  as  well  as  iron  ore.     The  Turks  of  course  do  nothing  for  it; 
under  their  rule  its  c^pabililiee  are  kept  down  to  their  lowest  poesible 
point.     But  they  hold  it  with  difficulty.     They  have  already  once  been 
expelled  from  Sunaa,  every  man  of  them  having  been  put  to  the  sword. 
If  the  time  should  come  that  they  would  be  obliged  to  evacuate  yomcu, 
there  can  be  no  di>iibt  that  EngliJih  rule  would  be  welcomed,     Aden  is 
visited  by  Araba  from  all  parts  of  Yemen,  and  the  spectacle  of  a  wise, 
firm,  and  just  rule  there  presented  has  made  a  deep  impression  upon  the 
whol«  population.     Thi  re  can  be  little  doubt  tbey  would  gladly  see  it 
extended  to  their  own  country.     Meantime  the  Turks  ai-e  quietly  en- 
deavouring to  push  their  frontier  further  east  into  Hadramaut,  a  country 
in  its  western  part  very  similar  apparently  to  Yemen,  and  so  completLly 
to  hem  in  on  ail  sides  the  little  strip  of  British  teiritory  around  Aden. 
The  Kaimakam  of  Q^ttaba,  the  frontier  tuDwn,  an  old  Turkish  officer,  was 
full  of  a  project  for  annexing  the  Yafa  country  to  tho  east,  and  spoke  to 
me  about  it  more  than  once.     How  far  it  is  wise  to  allow  Turkey  thus 
to  extend  and  surround  our  own  territory  on  every  aide,  this  is  not  the 
place  to  discuss.     Certain  it  is  that  such  extension  brings  no  good  to 
races  possessing  very  considerable  natural  capabilities,  and  quite  capable 
of  appreciating  the  benefits  of  a  wise  and  enlightened  government. 

After  General  Haig^s  paper, 

Sir  B\  GouoisMio  agreed  with  General  Hai?  that  it  was  most  desirable  to  learn 
something  mure  about  Yemen.  The  neighbouring  Hadraraaut  also  was  an  exceed* 
ingly  intereatiag  region  about  which  very  httlc  wa«  known  btyoud  the  line  of  coast- 
It  was  not,  periiapi,  generally  rcalisjed  that  HaJrauiiiut  was  tke  muther  country  of 


490 


RECENT  CHANGES  IN  THE  MAP  OF  EAST  AFRICA. 


the  Dutch  Arab  colonists  m  Java  and  the  Eastern  Archipelago,  Recently  the 
Govertiment  of  the  Netherlands  had  published  a  work  on  those  colonists,  and  in 
that  there  was  the  usual  lament  thai  80  little  was  known  about  the  interior  of 
lladramaut.  Tlje  thanks  of  the  Society  were  due  to  General  Haig  for  having 
brought  forward  this  subject  of  the  exploration  of  Yemen. 

The  President  said  that  General  Haig  had  by  this  journey  opened  np  a  field  fof 
further  invefitigation  and  in<juiry,  and  it  was  to  be  hoped  that  some  enterprising 
traveilera  would  follow  in  his  path,  and  obtain  further  details  of  the  condition  of  the 
people  and  the  natural  prodnotiona  of  these  regiona.  He  agreed  with  General  Eoig 
that  some  discredit  attached  to  the  British  Government  for  not  having  done  a  greal 
deal  more  towards  the  exploration  of  mountain  districts  which  were  within  easy 
reach  of  Aden  and  Muscat,  Considering  the  beautiful  climate  that  prevailed 
within  a  short  distance  of  Aden  in  these  mountains,  he  thought  that  something 
might  be  done  towards  forraing  a  settlement  in  them  which  might  be  visited  by  the 
British  occupants  of  Aden. 


Beeeni  ClmngeB  in  the  Map  of  East  Afriea^ 
Map,  p.  iiSO. 

The  accompanying  map  showa  the  political  boundaries  in  Eastom 
Etjuatorial  Africa  resulting  from  the  agreement  arrived  at  by  the 
British  and  German  Governments  in  October  last.  The  movement 
which  lias  led  to  the  acquisition  of  territories  in  the  Zanzibar  region 
by  Germany,  originated  with  Dr.  K.  Peters,  who  founded  in  April 
1884,  a  **  Society  for  German  Colonisation*'  at  Berlin,  similar  in  plan 
to  an  older  "  Kolonialverein,'*  but  bent  upon  the  realisation  of  more 
aiubitfons  schemes.  The  society  at  first  intended  to  acquire  land  near 
Humpata,  at  the  back  of  Mu^^saraedes  in  Fortugneso  Western  Africa, 
upon  which  German  coloni^ti*  might  be  eettltd,  but  Count  Joachim 
Pfeil,  who  had  some  knowledge  of  the  country,  pointed  out  the  superior 
advantugON  of  Eastern  Africa,  and  Mr,  Stanley's  glowing  account  of 
Usagara,  finally  detonnined  the  direction  of  the  enterprise.  Dr.  Peters, 
Dr.  Jlihlke,  and  Count  J,  Pfeil  were  therefore  authuriscd  to  accfuiro 
land  suit^ible  for  the  establishment  of  German  Mgrieulturul  and  com- 
mercial colonies.  Their  intention,  however^  owing  to  the  indiscretion 
of  one  of  the  directors,  became  known,  and  to  prevent  being  forestalled, 
a  repoit  was  spread  tliat  the  party  of  colonisers  were  bound  for  the 
Congo,  instead  of  which  the  three  adventurers  quietly  embarked  for 
Zanzibar,  under  assumed  names,  and  as  steerage  passengers. 

They   reached   that    place   on    November  4th   1884;   on   the   12th 
of  that  month  they  left  Saadani  for  the  interior,  and  on  November 

*  BubihI  upon  the  KohmiaJ-Polilkch^  Korreispondeuz^  a  weekly  pnpor,  published  hy 
thi3  '*  Bwi^ity  for  Uenimn  CobnisiitiDn/'  J.  Wjignet'a  *  Dcutcb'Oat^Arriktt,*  and  other 
publicaUotts  of  the  *'  Gtrman  East  African  Company.*' 


RECENT  CHANGES  IN  THE  MAP  OF  EAST  AFRICA. 


491 


1 9 ih  signed  their  first  treaty,  and  hoisted  the  German  flag  at  Mbuzini. 
Cotlnt  Pfeil  remained  behind  at  Mninyi  in  Ueagara,  whilst  Drs.  Petci's 
and  Jiihlke  hastened  back  to  tlie'  coast,  arriving  at  Bagamojo  on 
Uecemher  17th,  Laving  %vithin  that  ehort  epace  concluded  treaties  with 
eight  chiefs,  by  which  they  claimed  that  all  Uzegnha,  Ngnro,  Usagaia, 
and  Ukami  had  come  into  their  poBSCBsion. 

Peters  then  returned  to  Berlin,  and  on  February  l2th,  1885,  founded 
the  "'  German  East-African  Company,"  to  which  the  rigfits  he  and 
his  colleagues  had  acquired  were  ceded,  and  which  received  an  Imperial 
*'  Schutzbrief,**  or  letter  of  protection,  and  was  SfibBeqiiontly  granted  a 
Charter.     The  present  capital  of  the  Company  is  25O,O0OL 

The  newly-formed  Company  lost  no  time  in  pushing  forward  its 
prospecting  expeditions  in  Eastern  Africa,  for  it  was  thought  politic 
to  acquire  territories  in  all  sorts  of  places,  in  order  that  on  the  day  on 
which  conflicting  claims  were  settled^  something  should  be  left  worth 
keeping. 

Dr.  Jiihlke,  who  had  remained  behind  at  Zanzibar  as  Agent-General, 
was  joined  on  March  22nd  1885,  by  a  first  reinforcement,  headed  by 
Lieutenant  "Weiss,  and  on  April  3rd  by  Mr.  Hocmecke,  the  leader  of  a 
Becond  detachment.  Four  more  parties  arrived  in  the  course  of  the  year. 
It  was  at  first  intended  to  send  exploring  parties  as  far  as  Lake  Tan- 
ganyika and  the  Victoria  Kyanza.  This  plan,  however,  was  ultimately 
given  np,  and  Dr.  Jiihlke  and  Lieutenant  Weiss  were  instructed  instead 
to  proceed  to  Mount  Kilimanjaro.  Tbey  started  from  Pangani  on 
May  10th,  1885,  ascended  the  valley  of  the  Rufn,  making  treaties 
with  Simboya,  the  leading  chief  of  Usambara,  and  with  others.  On 
approaching  Ta%'eta  they  met  people  belonging  to  a  detachment  of 
Zanzibar  soldiers  returning  from  Moahi  in  Chagga,  whose  leader. 
General  MattheTvs,  had  succeeded  in  persuading  the  chief  Mandara  to 
hoist  the  Sultan's  flag.  Dr.  Jiihlke,  however,  j>ersevered  in  his  oTsject. 
Ho  arrived  at  Moshi  on  June  15th,  and  on  June  29 tb,  1885,  Mtmdiira 
put  his  mark  to  a  treaty,  by  which  he  placed  himself  under  German  pro- 
tection, and  ceded  the  whole  of  his  rights  as  a  sovereign  to  the  German 
Company.  He  declared  at  the  same  time,  that  the  Snl tan's  flag  had 
been  hoisted  merely  as  a  sign  of  friendship.  Dr.  JQhlke,  after  tluB, 
hurried  back  to  the  coast,  and  Mandara  has  seen  no  representative  of 
the  German  Company  since,* 

It  is  hardly  to  be  wondered  at  that  these  German  agents  came 
occasionally  into  conflict  with  the  authorities  of  the  Sultan  at  Zanzibar, 

♦  The  Rev.  E.  A.  Fitch  and  Mr.  J.  A,  Wmy.  of  the  Church  Mieeionary  Society,  nvho 
amved  at  Mo&hl  ou  July  Ist,  1885,  i mined intely  after  Dr.  Jiihlke  e  deporturf^  found 
the  Zanzibar  flag  flyinjj,  and  wero  Bsdtn^d  subsequently  by  Mundaxathftt  no  titaty  with 
Gemiiiny  had  been  signed  by  hira.  Mr.  Bucbatian,  of  the  Maiiehe&ter  Chftinber  of 
Coiiir»erce,  arrived  at  Moehi  oa  Juae  29tlif  188C>.  (*C1iuk*Ii  MisdouiLry  lat^Uigouoer,* 
1886,  p.  559.) 


102 


1?EC£NT  CHANGES  IN  THE  MAP  OF  EAST  AFRICA. 


who  not  only  claimed  tlio  whole  of  tlio  coast,  but  also  tlio  interior,  as  for 
U8  Lake  Taugatiyika,  aud  bcyontl.  Tboao  claimH,  however,  wcro  not 
recognised  by  Gurmany,  and  when  a  pnworful  Germau  squadron  put  in. 
an  op|i(iarance  at  Zanzibur  in  An^uat,  1885,  the  t>olt?Ln,  on  the  14th  of 
the  month,  lecognisod  Usagara,  Kguru,  Useguha,  Ukami  and  Wito  as 
German  pix>tectoratos,  and  consented  to  the  couclusion  of  a  com  mere  Jul 
treaty  and  to  the  demai  cati<  ii  of  the  tjoniidariea  by  an  international 
commission*  A  Commerdal  Treaty  with  Germany  was  signed  at  Zanzibar 
on  December  20th,  1885,  and  the  poUtioal  boundaries  were  settled  by  a 
joint  British  and  German  Commis^jion,  and  embodied  in  the  London 
CouYention  of  November  1»  188G* 

The  attempt  of  Dr.  Jiihlke  to  obtein  a  footing  on  the  Jub  and  in 
Southern  Somal  Land  ended  disastrously  for  that  energetic  agent  of 
the  Company,  On  November  luth,  188t),  tho  Isolde  appeared  ulF  tho 
mouth  of  the  Jub,  The  whale-boat  was  sent  to  examine  the  bar  of 
the  river,  but  was  swamped,  and  Lieutenant  Giantter  and  two  sailoi's 
wero  drowned.  Dr.  Jiihlke  immediately  sailed  for  E^ismayu,  whence, 
notwithstanding  the  obstaoles  placed  in  his  way  by  the  Sultan  »  Vrtli,  ho 
proceeded  by  land  to  the  sc^ne  of  the  disaster.  Whilst  at  Kismuyu,  ho 
entei  ed  into  communicartion  with  All  bin  Small  and  other  Somal  chiefs, 
and  having  been  close  tod  with  them  fur  thrte  hours  and  a  hnU  during 
the  night  from  the  loth  to  the  16th  November,  bo  succeeded  in  per- 
fiuadiug  them  to  place  them^elvei*  under  the  protection  of  Germany. 
Ali  received  32/.  in  acknowledgment  of  Im  goud-will,  but  he  begged 
Dr.  Jiihlke  to  keep  the  knowledge  of  this  pecuniary  transaction  from 
his  brother  chiefs,  as  otherwise  they  might  cut  his  throat.  This  does 
not  look  as  if  these  negotiations  hud  been  popularly  approved  of,  and 
Mr*  G,  Denliardt  does  not  hesitate  to  ascribe  Dn  Jiihlko's  murder  on 
December  Ut  to  political  motives,*  Kobbery,  at  all  events,  was  not  the 
object,  for  Dr.  Jiihlke's  valuable  property  was  not  touched.  Tho 
murderer  has  since  been  executed  by  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar*s  orders. 

Whiifet  tbese  events  took  place  in  tbe  Somal  country  the  procesa  of 
annexation  went  on  in  the  south  wdthin  the  limits  of  the  lenitorj^ 
ainco  declared  to  bo  under  Germ  an  iniliienoe.  Count  J.  Pfeili  id  tho 
Cijurse  of  his  explorations  in  the  Lutiji  basin,  1885-6,  concluded  treaties 
in  Ubehe,  Ubena  and  Mahenge,  as  also  with  the  Wamacbonde  and 
WangindOi  which  established  claims  over  a  vast  territory. 

The  first  stations  in  the  newly  acquired  German  possessions  -were 
founded  in  March  and  April  1886,  in  the  valley  of  the  Kingani,  and  the 
development  and  extension  of  these  stations  has  been  the  principal  aim 
of  tbe  Company  Binco  tbe  period  of  annexations  has  come  to  a  close. 
AVith  a  view  to  furthering  this  object,  Dr*  Peters,  with  a  staff  of  twa-nty- 
thiee  persons,  including  engineer.'^,  surveyors,  agriculturists,  and  medical 
men,  left  Gerujany  in  April  and  arrived  at  Zanzibar  on  May  17. 
♦  *  Allgcmeinci  Zeitung,*  1887,  p.  175. 


KECEKT  CHANGES  IN  THE  MAP  OF  EAST  AFKICA. 


493 


Tbe  teixiioiial  areas  in  tha^  regioD,  roughly  estimated,  are  «b 
follows  : — 

The  SuliiiQ  of  ZaTizibaf^s  donuoioiis  (Zfi^nsibAi  Idanrl,  6H  eq*  m. ;  Peinba,  Ens,  ■<!<  ^* 

372  sq.  m. ;  5Iiitia»  '^l*)  sq.  m. ;  mamHaad,  bOUO  ^q.  m.)       9|190 

Oerman  Prok>ctomtuii  (Wito-Inad,  52O0  eq.  n>. ;  Usagiim,  <S:e.,  20JOO  aq.  m.)  25»900 

EematDing  territoriee  over  which   GcrmaDV  is  allowed   tu  establkk  Pro- 

t©Ltorates      .,       .,      , ♦/ ..      .»  122,800 

TeiriUjries  over  wltieh  England  is  allowed  ta  Citablieh  Prot«ctorate«    -»      ,.  72^000 

Wifco-land,  under  Sultan  Ahmed  Siraba,  accepted  a  German  Pro- 
tectorate on  April  8th,  1885,  and  the  ooast  abutting  u^K>n  Man  da  Bay 
has  been  assigned  to  it  The  neiirhlHimrins^  is  hinds,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  Lamu,  have  been  relinquished  by  Zanzibar,  AVito-land, 
which  is  in  part  inhabited  by  Galla,  is  described  as  a  generally  level 
country,  well  adapted  to  agriculture.  The  territories  ceded  within  it 
to  the  brothers  Denhardt  were  tranaferred  by  tbeui,  in  June  1886,  to 
the  *'  Deutsche  Eolonialverein.** 

A  commencement  has  l^een  made  in  the  occupation  of  the  route  which 
leads  np  the  Fanj^uni  or  IJutu  river  into  the  Masai  country  and  to 
Mount  Kilinia-njarOi  Korogwe,  the  first  station,  lies  about  53  miles  up 
the  river,  un  a  lull,  and  was  founded  in  May  1886  by  Mr.  W,  Braun. 
The  surrounding  country  is  deseiibtid  as  delightful.  The  natives  culti- 
vate durrah,  maize,  and  manioc,  and  tbcr©  are  not  wanting  shady  spots 
well  adapted  for  the  cultivation  of  coffee.  The  coco-palm  is  met  with 
aa  far  as  3Iaurwi,  10  nules  t>eyond  Korogwe.  Later  in  the  year.  Mi*. 
Braun  founded  a  station  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Mafi,  30  miles  further  up 
the  Pangani*  and  quite  recently  ho  has  been  authorised  to  push  ahead, 
and  to  estabiiiih  himself  at  the  foot  of  Kilima-njaro.  The  customs 
administration  of  Pangani  is  to  be  intrusted  by  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar 
to  the  German  Company. 

The  important  caravan  route  which  leads  inland  from  Saadani  has 
likewise  been  occupied.  Saadani  itself  is  au  insignifio^nt  place,  with  an 
open  roadstead.  The  Wami,  which  enters  the  sea  to  the  south  of  it,  and 
which  in  the  hill  oouutry  of  Uaagara  is  known  as  the  Mukondokwa,  has 
not  yet  been  fully  examined  as  to  its  navigability. 

Petershohe,  the  first  station  on  this  r<  -ute,  lies  about  52  miles  inland, 
and  was  founded  by  Lieut,  von  Andeilen  in  July  1886.  It  occupies  tho 
slope  of  a  hill,  by  the  side  of  the  Eukegura  rivulet,  not  far  from  the 
village  Mbuzini,  where  the  German  flag  was  first  unfurled  in  Eastern 
Africa.  The  station  buildings  occupy  about  1500  square  yards,  and  aii3 
raised  upon  stone  foundations.  The  live  slock  includes  cattle,  sheep, 
goats,  and  asses,  and  about  ten  acres  of  laud,  by  the  river  side,  have 
been  brought  under  cultivation,  and  bananas  and  other  fruit  trees  have 
been  planted. 

Proceeding  up  the  valley  of  the  Wami  we  pass  Kondoa,  for  years  the 
residence  of  Capt.  and  Mrs.  Bloyet,  who  treated  Count  Pfeil  with  great 
kindness  when  he  wm  stricken  down  by  disease,  and  at  length  reach 


iU 


RECEKT  CHAKGES  IN  THE  MAP  OF  EAST  AFRICA. 


Muinyi^  the  reBidenco  of  the  principal  chief  of  Usagara,  in  whose  vici- 
nity Count  Pfcil,  in  March  1B85,  founded  the  Simha  station.  Mr,  Cari 
Schmidt,  a  practical  agriculturist,  apeak b  highly  of  the  soil,  and  states 
that  the  distrihution  of  the  rainfall  throughout  the  year  is  favourable. 
About  ten  acres  have  been  planted  here  with  food*plants,  ground- nuts, 
red  pepper,  kueme  (a  creeper  yielding  oil),  and  tobacco.  It  is  proposed 
to  introduce  the  Capo  vine.  The  live  stock  includes  cows,  sheep,  goats, 
pigs,  fowls,  geese,  and  pigeons.  Kiora,  in  the  same  part  of  the  country, 
is  an  out-station,  founded  by  Mr.  Ehodes  iu  November  1885. 

The  stations  which  have  been  founded  in  Uzaramo,  along  the  route 
which  leads  from  Bagamoyo  up  the  Kingani  river,  appear  to  have 
made  most  advance.  At  Bagamoyo  itself,  well-known  as  the  head- 
quarters of  the  French  mission,  %vith  whom  excellent  relations  have  been 
established,  the  Company  maintain  a  store  from  which  the  inland 
stations  are  supplied.  The  Kiogani  is  navigable  for  small  steamers  for 
a  considerable  distance  into  the  interior,  and  a  steam  launch  has  been 
placed  upon  it  The  river  inundates  its  valley  for  a  considerable 
distance,  and  has  not  inaptly  been  called  a  miniature  Nile.  The 
bottom-lands  ai*e  well  adapted  for  the  growth  of  cotton,  sugar-cane, 
sesame,  indigo,  and  rice.  The  hiOs  bounding  the  valley  are  partly 
wooded.  The  company's  stations  have  Ix^en  placed  upon  bluffs  com- 
manding the  valley  below,  Dunda,  the  first  among  them,  stands  about 
22  miles  from  Saadani,  and  was  founded  on  March  5,  1880,  by  LieuL 
Krenzler.  It  occupies  the  edge  of  u  bluff,  rising  IGO  feet  above  the 
valley,  and  has  been  fortified  by  Lieut.  Biilow,  and  armed  with  two 
guns.  Commodious  dwelling-houses,  a  smith's  shop,  a  store,  and 
stabling  for  cattle,  sheep,  goat«,  and  asses  have  been  erected,  and  a 
hospital  is  in  course  of  construction.  By  November  1880,  122  acres 
had  been  planted  with  manioc,  maize,  beans,  sugar-cane,  cotton, 
tobacco,  &c.  The  soil  is  good.  There  is  no  tsetse,  but  the  grass  is  too 
teoarse  for  working  cattle,  and  for  the  most  part  eour,  and  it  is  proposed 
to  introduce  French  lucerne,  red  clover,  and  English  rye-grass. 
Already  two  German  colonists  have  established  themselves  near  the 
station,  at  Barkenfelde,  and,  to  judge  from  their  letters,  they  are  well 
content  with  their  lot.  A  hospital,  under  the  direction  of  Baroness 
Frieda  von  Biilow,  is  in  course  of  organisation. 

Alxjut  22  miles  higher  up  the  river  we  reach  Madimola,  founded  by 
Lieut,  Saint'Paul-lllaire.  Samples  of  cotton  forwarded  from  this 
station  in  October  1886,  were  declared  by  Bremen  experts  to  be 
snperior  to  middling  Orleans. 

The  third  station,  Usiiungula,  stands  75  miles  from  the  coast,  and 
was  founded  on  April  25th,  1886,  by  Lieut.  Zelewski.  It  occupies 
the  edge  of  the  plateau,  about  300  feet  above  the  river,  and  is  backed 
by  wooded  hills  attaining  a  height  of  about  a  thousand  feet.  About 
6400  acres  of   land  are  available  here  for  agricultural  purposes,  and 


R£C£NT  CHANGES  IN  THE  MAP  OF  EAST  AFRICA.  495 

4J  acres  have  been  planted  experimentally  with  tobacco,  ground-nuts, 
&c.  The  soil,  a  brown  loam,  is  well  adapted  for  Egyptian  wheat. 
Formerly  this  district  was  much  exposed  to  the  predatory  incursions  of 
the  Fituli,  a  tribe  of  Ukami,  but  Lieut.  Zelewski  has  organised  a  native 
militia,  and  these  raids  have  since  ceased. 

Dares-Salaam,  to  the  south  of  Bagamoyo,  lies  within  the  territory 
assigned  to  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar,  but  its  custom-house  is  to  be  placed 
under  German  administration,  on  behalf  of  the  Sultan.  Preparations 
have  been  made  for  planting  stations  in  the  valley  of  the  Bafiji. 

Looking  bcusk  at  the  work  which  has  been  accomplished  since 
Dr.  Peters  first  planted  the  German  flag  at  Mbuzini,  it  must  be  admitted 
that  considerable  progress  has  been  made.  The  Company  is  very 
reticent  as  to  the  system  of  administration  which  it  is  proposed  to 
introduce  into  these  African  possessions.  We  have,  however,  this 
emphatic  declaration  on  the  part  of  Dr.  Peters,  that  it  is  not  their 
intention  to  found  "a  State  like  that  founded  by  Mr.  Stanley  in 
Western  Africa."  The  German  East  African  Company  may  in  the  mean- 
time be  described  as  a  trading  company,  like  the  Royal  Niger 
Company,  and  arrangements  have  virtually  been  made  with  two 
Grerman  firms  at  Zanzibar,  Messrs.  Hansing  and  O'Swald,  to  act  as  its 
agents. 

The  development  of  the  resources  of  the  country  is  to  be  left  to 
other  agencies.  There  is  no  talk  now  of  diverting  a  stream  of  German 
emigrants  to  Eastern  Africa,  although  a  few  experimental  settlements 
may  possibly  be  established  in  promising  localities.  It  is  thought, 
however,  that  Eastern  Africa  might  yield  at  least  a  portion  of  the 
colonial  produce  upon  which  Germany  annually  expends  about  forty 
millions,  and  that  this  produce  might  be  paid  for  with  German  manu- 
factures. It  is  more  especially  intended  to  cultivate  tobacco,  coffee,  and 
cotton,  and  for  this  purpose  a  "  Plantation  Company  "  has  been  founded 
with  a  capital  of  100,000Z.  An  agent  of  the  Company,  Mr.  Schroeder, 
formerly  a  planter  in  Sumatra,  amved  at  Zanzibar  on  March  6th,  of  the 
present  year.  A  survey  for  a  railway  is  about  to  be  commenced,  and 
mining  operations  have  been  heard  of. 

The  labour  question  has  hitherto  presented  no  difficulty,  although  it 
is  admitted  that  the  natives  frequently  leave  their  work  after  a  month, 
and  only  return  when  their  wages  have  been  expended.  At  some  of  the 
Company's  stations  between  60  and  80  natives  are  employed  daily  on 
agricultural  and  other  work,  and  they  have  generally  given  satisfaction, 
three  negroes  doing  the  work  of  two  Germans.  The  wages  paid  vary 
between  three  and  five  rupees  a  month  with  five  or  six  pesos  posho  per 
diem  in  lieu  of  board.  The  total  monthly  wage  thus  amounts  to  only 
from  11«.  Id.  to  15«.  7d.,  reckoning  the  rupee  at  two  shillings.  The 
Company  only  punishes  breaches  of  contract;  and  men  who  desert, 
after  having  received  their  wages,  are  set  to  work  until  the  amount 


49a 


RECENT  CHANGES  IN  THE  MAP  OF  EAST  AFRICA, 


Iiae  l^eea  made  up,  and  are  then  dismiesecL  It  htm  not  hitherto  been 
foiiBcl  ixeceesary  to  employ  compulsion.  Mr.  Hoeniecke  very  fairly 
points  out  that  slavery,  vla  well  as  the  arbitrary  procefdiugs  of  certain 
ruling  tribeSt  demoralist'd  the  native.  He  recommends  to  employ  the 
slave-lalx>ur  of  the  locality,  but  not  to  permit  the  introduction  of  slaves 
from  other  districts.  A  plot  of  land  is  to  be  allotted  to  each  labourer, 
(as  part  of  his  hire>  and  by  steadiness  ho  is  to  be  enabled  to  procure  his 
emancipation,  Mr,  Hoemecke  strongly  recommends  co-operation  witii 
the  missionaries,* 

A  Grerman  MiBSionary  Society  for  Eastern  Africa  was  established  at 
Hersbruck  in  Bavaria,  in  January  1886,  and  has  already  despatched  twt> 
missionaries,  who  have  for  the  present  taken  up  their  quarters  near 
Kabbai,  but  will  ultimately  penetrate  into  IJkamba,  Another  missio- 
nary society  was  established  at  Berlin^  by  memhors  of  the  Company,  and 
will  confine  its  operations  to  the  German  territories.  A  third  society 
was  founded  at  Neunkirchen,  These  three  sfjcieties  have  already 
despatched  seven  missionaries  and  three  ladies  to  Zanzibar.  It  seems 
too,  as  if  the  French  Fathers  of  the  "Congregation  du  St.  Esprit/* 
who  work  at  present  bo  successfully,  are  partly  to  Ite  superseded  by 
missionaries  supplied  from  the  College  of  Eeichenbach.  The  Holy 
Congregation's  consent  to  this  change  is  stated  to  have  been  obtained 
by  Br.  Peters  duruig  a  recent  visit  to  Rome. 

Scientific  work  ba«  not  been  neglected  by  the  agents  of  the  Company, 
Count  Juachim  Pfeirs  joui-ney  in  1885H3  has  very  materially  increased 
our  knowledge  of  the  Lufiji  vaUey  ;|  the  expedition  to  Mount  Kilimanjaro, 
under  I>r.  Jiiblke  and  Lieutenant  Weis?*,  has  yielded  som©  useful 
results  ;t  and  Dr.  K.  W,  Schmidt,  a  geologist,  has  jnsf  returned  to  Berlin 
with  a  vahialdo  mincralogical  collection,  and  is  preparing  au  account  of 
his  explorations.  It  is  gratifying  to  notice  that  these  reports  are  not 
withheld  from  the  public  from  a  mistaken  and  shortsighted  notion  of 
their  being  used  to  the  prejudice  of  the  Company, 

*  On  the  Traininjj  of  ih©  Negrro  to  Lahoof,  see  tlic  csstits  hj  Dr.  MiTcnsky  and 
HcrmaTi  Bilx>|  recently  publiiiliod  at  Berlin.  They  weie  riward(:'tl  prizes  ofll'rutl  by  tbt* 
German  Company, 

t  'ProceedfngB  K.G.S.j'uuftr,  p.  47* 

t  Weifie, 'Meine  Reiae  imcli  dnti  Kiliina-NdBcliaro-Gcbif^t/  Berlin,  18S6;  nnd  K* 
Jhhlke* '  Die  Erwerbiing  deu  KiliDia-Ndiitharo-Gcbieta/  Cologne,  18S6. 


(    497    ) 

Journeys  in  the  District  of  Delagoa  Bay,  Dec.  1886-J*an.  1887. 

By  H.  E.  O'Neill,  Esq.,  H.M.  Consul,  Mozambique.* 

In  December  last  Mr.  0*Neill  left  Mozambique  on  ah  official  mission  to 
Delagoa  Bay,  and  reached  that  place  on  the  23rd  of  the  month.  He 
reports  as  follows  on  his  jonmeys  in  the  neighbonrhood,  and  on  the 
present  condition  of  the  Portnguese  colony : — 

There  are  two  rentes  now  in  nse  from  Delagoa  Bay  to  the  Transvaal, 
both  sketched  on  the  accompanying  map.  The  first-established,  bnt 
longer  one,  is  that  which  leads  from  the  lowest  "  drift "  or  ford  npon  the 
Temby  river,  through  Swazi-land  into  that  State.  It  was  this  road  that 
was  selected  by  the  Portuguese  Engineers,  employed  in  1878  and  1879, 
for  the  survey  of  the  projected  line  of  rail  to  Pretoria.  The  second, 
along  which  for  some  distance  the  railw^ty  now  being  constructed  will 
run,  leads  from  the  town  of  Delagoa  Bay,  crosses  the  Lobombo  range  at 
the  Matala  *'  Poort,"  or  pass,  and  descending  into  the  valley  of  the 
Incomati  river,  follows  the  course  of  that  river  until  within  a  day's 
journey  of  Barberton. 

My  desire  was  to  give  both  these  routes  a  trial.  Starting  on  the 
first,  I  planned  to  pass  through  Swazi-land,  returning  to  Delagoa  by  the 
second,  which  is  generally  known  by  the  name  of  the  Incomati  route. 
These  two  routes  compete,  in  a  measure,  one  with  the  other  for  the  gold- 
fields  trade,  as  well  as  with  their  great  rivals  passing  through  the  Cape 
Colony  and  Natal.  I  regret  to  say  that  I  have  failed  to  carry  out  these 
plans.  Although  I  travelled  some  distance  on  both  of  these  roads,  I 
nowhere  crossed  the  Portuguese  frontier. 

On  the  morning  of  the  27th  December  I  left  the  town  of  Loren9o 
Marques,  and  after  a  drive  of  about  six  hours  encamped  at  a  point  upon 
the  head-waters  of  the  MatoUa  river,  a  small  affluent  of  the  Temby. 
This  portion  of  the  road  is  over  a  very  soft,  yielding  sand,  and  gives 
such  heavy  work  for  waggon  iraffic  that  the  Boers  who  come  down  in  the 
winter  rarely  bring  their  wagq:ons  into  the  town.  Goods  are  conveyed 
by  lx)ats  a  short  distance  up  the  Temby  and  MatoUa  rivers,  and  taken 
np  by  the  waggons  at  a  point  called  Malbenbaan.  Thence,  if  for  Swazi- 
land, they  proceed  by  the  route  followed  up  by  me  to  the  Umbelosi 
drift,  cross  that  river  and  join  the  Temby  drift  road.  If  they  are  for 
Barberton  they  almost  invariably  go  by  the  Incomati  valley. 

On  Tuesday,  after  an  early  start,  we  reached  a  station  kept  by  an 
Englishman  called  Sheppard,  at  which  the  Incomati  and  Umbelosi  roads 
diverge,  and,  outspanning  here  for  breakfast,  pushed  on  in  the  afternoon 
to  Malbenbaan.  On  Wednesday,  a  drive  of  seven  hours  over  a  lightly 
timbered  country  of  sandy  soil  brought  us  to  the  river  Umbelosi, 
and  I  encamped  at  the  ford  which  the  transport  waggons  usually  cross. 

*  CkmunuDicated  by  the  Foreign  Office. 


JOURNETS  IN  THg  DISTRICT  OF  DELAGOA  BAY. 


t89 


As  you  ent«r  the  Umbelosi  valley  the  aspect  of  the  country  changes 
-very  markedly,  the  broken  outlines  and  precipitous  faces  of  the  Loni- 
bombo  range  coming  suddenly  into  view  at  a  distance  of  only  10  or  12 
miles,  whilst  the  valley  itself  with  ita  vivid  green  pasturage,  its  winding 
river,  and  well  wooded  banks,  presents  a  sharp  and  pleasant  contrast  to 
the  country  we  had  just  passed  over.  Its  reputation  for  sickness  and 
death,  more  especially  in  the  rainy  season,  is  the  very  worst,  and  I  began 
at  once  to  feel  its  evil  effects.  The  acute  form  of  %vhat  is  called  "  horse 
sickuess  '*  broke  out  amongst  my  team,  and  before  I  had  been  three  daya 
camped  in  the  valley  two  of  my  mules  were  dead.  A  slight  delay  there 
was  unavoidable  on  account  of  the  condition  of  the  stream,  which  was 
in  flood,  and  not  expected  to  he  passable  for  several  days.  But  if  X  was 
to  get  on  a  stronger  team  became  necessary «  and  I  wrote  back  at  once 
for  a  reinforcement  of  mules*  When  a  third,  however,  began  to  sicken, 
it  was  clearly  time  to  turn  back  and  strive  to  g#t  into  a  healthier 
locality,  1  therefore  turned,  and  on  my  way  back  to  Malhenbaau 
received  the  disappointing  reply  that  three  of  the  six  remaining  mules 
belonging  to  the  Transport  Company  were  also  dead.  It  became  very 
plain  then  that  it  would  be  foHy  to  attempt  the  journey  with  such 
transport  at  this  season,  and  I  reluctantly  decided  to  return  to  Belagoa 
Bay. 

I  need  not  give  a  detailed  description  of  our  return,  which  was 
made  with  some  difficulty,  as  the  half-team  to  which  we  were  now 
reduced  could  only  drag  a  lightened  cart,  and  we  all  had  to  trudge 
alongside,  now  and  then  **  putting  shoulder  to  the  wheels  "  to  help  them 
out  of  the  soft  deep  sand-pits  into  which  they  sank.  A  short  delay  was 
necessary  at  Sheppard's  station,  and  it  was  not  until  the  evening  of  the 
4th  that  we  again  reached  the  town  of  Lorenzo  Marques, 

I  had  seen  enough  to  con%anco  me  that  no  team  of  mules  was  capable 
of  travelling,  in  this  reason  at  least,  in  the  low  country.  Others,  how- 
ever, were  not  easily  conviDced,  and  a  week  after  my  return,  a  fresh 
supply  of  animals  being  procured  from  the  high  voldt,  another  waggon 
was  despatched  with  twelve  mules  by  way  of  the  Incomati  for  Barberton, 

This  venture  was  even  more  disastrous  than  mine,  for  before  they 
had  got  30  miles  on  their  journey  five  of  their  mules  were  dead.  Nor 
need  I  describe  the  sickness  which  caused  this  mortality,  for  it  is  too 
well  known*  It  was  the  horse  or  lung  sickness,  that  every  year  carries 
oflF  thousands  of  horses  and  cattle  even  on  the  high  veldt  of  the 
Transvaal  and  our  South  African  Colonies,  and  which  during  the 
Transvaal  war  Itaffled  the  skill  of  our  regimental  veterinary  surgeons  to 
cure,  or  prevent,  or  even  discover  the  cause,  as  to  which  there  are 
numerous  theories.  It  works  most  rapidly,  and  tix  hours  is  generally 
sufficient  to  carry  off  an  apparently  healthy  animal. 

Two  days  after  my  return  I  began  to  feel  myself  the  Hi-effects  of  the 
low,  swampy,  and  unhealthy  localities  through  which   I  had  been 
No.  YIIL— Aug.  1887,]  2  o 


000 


JOURNETS  IN  THE  DISTRICT  OF  DEL.VQOA  BAT. 


pasemg,  and  I  waa  attacked  by  a  sharp  fever  which  confined  me  to  my 
room  for  five  days.  Recovering  from  thie,  and  Biiding  that  the  time  left 
me  was  not  eufficient  to  carry  out  a  jo^mey  into  the  interior,  I  decided 
to  visit  Inyack  Island  and  see  for  myself  the  nature  of  the  Portnguese 
occupation  there ;  an  occupation  ivhich  was  not  efifected  for  some  years 
after  the  case  referred  to  the  arbitration  of  Marshal  MacMahon  had 
l>een  given  in  their  favour*  Ifeporte  have  often  reached  me  of  the  claim 
still  made  over  the  island  by  the  Queen  of  the  Amatongas^  and  quite 
recently  I  had  heard  of  an  objection  raised  by  hor  to  the  construction  of 
a  lighthouse  upon  it,  a  work  much  wanted  in  the  interest  of  the 
ahtpptng  visiting  Belagoa  Bay- 

From  tho  15th  to  the  20th  January  was  taken  np  by  this  visit,  I 
found  the  island  effoctively  occupied  by  a  detachment  of  about  twenty 
BoldiorB,  commanded  by  a  lieutenant  in  the  Portuguese  army.  They 
were  well  housed  in  small  but  substantial  barrackSi  situated  upon  an 
elevated  and  healthy  site  overlooking  Port  MelviOe  and  the  bay,  A 
couple  of  small  guns,  mounted  on  field  carriages,  commanded  tho 
anchorage.  Nevertheless,  the  occupation  is  a  purely  military  one,  and  it 
is  pretty  clearly  felt  that  the  neighbouring  Amatongaa  are  not  to  be 
trusted,  A  strong  proof  was  given  to  tho  authorities  of  their  inde- 
pendence some  months  ago,  by  their  refusing  to  permit  the  marking  off 
of  the  fanciful  boundary  given  in  Marshal  MacMahon *8  award.  The 
frontier  line  tlien  fixed  as  26^^  30'  S.  lat»  runs  through  the  centre 
of  Amatonga  territory,  passing  'very  near  tho  Queen's  kraal,  and  it  is 
not  unnatural  that  they  should  raiso  some  objection  to  it.  Except  bo 
far  that  it  excludes  the  British  the  award  has  remained  a  dead  letter, 
and  the  Amatonga  Queen  exercises  a  pmctical  jurisdiction  up  to  tho 
mouth  of  the  Maputa  riven 

Upon  Inyack  Island  there  are,  perhaps,  a  couple  of  hundred  natives, 
who  subsist  by  fishing  and  fumisbing  supplies  of  fresh  food  to  the 
military  detachment.  Regular  communication  is  kept  up  with  the 
latter  by  a  schooner  from  Lorengo  Marques,  and  the  commandant 
informed  me  that  they  were  relieved  every  three  months. 

On  the  20  th  I  returned  to  Loren^  Marques,  and  on  the  24th  I 
embarked  on  my  return  to  ]\Iozambique,  where  I  arrived  on  the  2nd 
February. 

In  summing  np  the  general  resnlts  of  my  observations,  the  first 
point  to  which  I  may  call  attention  is  the  rapid  extension  of  British 
interests  in  the  district  and  their  growingly  permanent  nature.  Hitherto 
they  have  been  only  commercial  and  transitory ;  the  first,  owing  to  the 
influx  of  British  goods  for  the  Transvaal  through  Delagoa  Bay;  the 
second,  due  to  the  passage  of  British  subjects— diggers,  storekeepers, 
speculators,  and  the  like— flocking  to  the  mining  districts  of  the 
Transvaal. 

Nothing,  indeed,  is   more  cnrious  than  the  manner  in  which  this 


I 


JOaRNETS  IN  THE  DISTRICT  OF  DELAGOA  BAT.  501 

district  is  becoming  Anglicised.  It  is  the  first  point  at  which  actual 
contact  has  taken  place  between  the  British  and  Portuguese  in  South 
Africa,  and  it  will  be  interesting  to  see  how  the  inert  life  of  the  latter — 
which  has  confined  them  for  more  than  three  centuries  to  the  shores  of 
the  bay — will  resist  or  adapt  itself  to  the  push  and  vigour  that  charac- 
terises the  former. 

This  AnglicisiDg  process  is  being  carried  on  on  all  sides,  and  even 
by  others  than  Englishmen.  From  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the 
town  of  Loren9o  Marques  and  onwards  towards  the  Transvaal— upon 
both  routes— you  find  Englishmen  and  their  dependents  establishing 
themselves.  Upon  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  Lobombos,  a  little  south  of  the 
IJmbelosi  and  therefore  in  Portuguese  territory,  there  is  a  small  English 
colony  arising,  partly  giving  itself  to  cattle-raising,  but  chiefly  bent  upon 
securing  the  trade  of  the  Swazi  oountry,  to  which  Delagoa  Bay  is  the 
readiest  inlet.  Here  English  enterprise  has  strikingly  asserted  itself. 
Upon  this,  the  old  route  to  the  Transvaal,  there  was  one  short  stage  of 
low  country  between  the  Lobombos  and  the  Temby ,  of  the  unhealthiness 
of  which  the  Boer  transport  riders  were  always  afraid.  To  sa«e  upon 
that  link  in  the  line  of  communication  was  the  work  of  a  small  group  of 
Englishmen,  who  seem  now  to  have  fairly  possessed  themselves  of  it^ 
and  reap  good  profits  by  a  charge  of  6$.  per  owt.  for  goods  they  carry 
over  it  and  deliver  to  the  Boers  on  the  high  veldt.  Storehouses  are- 
no  w  being  planned  at  both  ends  of  this  stage,  on  the  Lobombo  and  at 
the  Temby  drift,  so  that  goods  may  be  properly  housed  and  protected 
whilst  waiting  for  waggon  transport. 

The  only  steamer  regularly  plying  upon  the  Temby  river  is  the 
property  of  a  Scotchman,  settled  on  the  Lobombos,  and  the  steamship 
Somtseu,  of  the  African  Boating  Company,  was  making  the  first  trip- 
of  what  it  was  hoped  would  become  a  regular  service,  when  I  left 
Delagoa  Bay.  On  the  Incomati  route  also,  on  the  only  three  habitable^ 
spots,  in  a  country  almost  deficient  in  water.  Englishmen  have  planted 
themselves. 

But  it  is  the  strong,  eager  rush  for  gold  that  promises  to  draw  over 
the  inner  frontier  into  Portuguese  territory,  the  largest  number  of  a 
class  made  up  in  South  Africa  almost  entirely  of  men  of  the  Anglo* 
Saxon  race.  Pioneering  prospectors  from  Barberton  are  stretching  away 
far  from  the  banks  of  the  Kaap  river,  and  are  already  thick  in  the 
Incomati  valley.  Both  north  and  south  of  that  river  prospecting  goes 
on  actively  upon  the  Lobombo  range,  and  many  claims  have  already 
been  registered  in  the  Secretariate  of  the  Government  of  Lorenzo 
Marques  to  gold-bearing  reefs  upon  the  eastern  slopes  of  those  hills. 
Perhaps  the  most  promising  of  the  mineral  claims  lately  registered  is 
one  to  a  deposit  of  coal  near  the  Umbelosi  river,  and  within  14  miles  of 
carriage  by  water — ^by  that  river  and  the  Temby — to  Delagoa  Bay. 
If  it  prove  to  be  of  good  quality,  and  the  specimens  brought  down  are 

2  0  2 


502  JOURNEVS  IN  THE  DISTRICT  OF  DELAGOA  BAY.  | 

very  favourably  reported  on,  this  coal-field  will  be  exceptionally  well 
placed  for  competing  with  Natal  coal|  wkich  lies  200  miles  from  the 
coast  at  Newcastle, 

Afi  to  the  probable  rush  of  gold  prospectors  into  Portuguese  territory, 
the  experience  already  gained  appears  to  show  that  the  richest  gold- 
bearing  strata  extend  north-east  and  east-north-eastward  from  the 
mining  centres  about  the  Eaap  river,  and  parties  arej  I  hear,  now 
preparing  at  Barberton  to  prospect  the  Gaza,  Manica,  and  Mashona 
countries  in  the  coming  cool  season. 

It  is  when  really  payable  reefs  are  found  in  these  countries  (reported 
the  richest  of  South  Africa  in  gold),  and  companies  are  being  formed 
to  work  them,  that  the  question  of  Portuguese  sovereignty  will  be  first 
seriously  raised,  and  the  true  relations  of  the  Colonial  authorities  with 
such  powerful  chiefs  as  Gungunhana  of  the  Gaza  country  be  really 
tested* 

I  should  like  to  point  out  here  that  the  independence  guaranteed  the 
Swazi  king  by  the  Convention  of  the  3rd  August,  1881,  and  upheld 
ohioBy  through  the  iniuence  of  the  British  Government,  has  done  some- 
thing towards  weakening,  if  not  dismissing,  the  fears  of  the  sun'oiiuding 
native  chiefs  to  gold  prospecting  in  their  territories-  They  have  seen 
Swazi-Iand  almost  overrun  with  English  preapectona,  and  seen  also  that 
the  invasion  is  a  purely  peaceful  one>  and  that  their  rights  have  been 
rigidly  respected.  For  every  grazing  license  given,  or  gold  concession 
made,  the  king  has  been  well  paid.  Every  "  claim  **  marked  out  has 
brought  him  50/.,  and  on  more  than  one  occasion,  upon  a  company  l»eing 
formed  to  work  a  claim,  and  machinerj^  being  set  up,  3000L  in  hard  cash 
were  paid  for  the  concession. 

I  do  not  say  this  state  of  things  is  free  from  future  evil,  or  does  not 
threaten  danger  to  Swazi  independence,  but  those  dangers  are  not  yet 
apparent  to  surrounding  chiefs,  who  only  see  the  immediate  wealth  and 
strength  that  accrues  to  that  country  from  the  discovery  of  gold,  and 
influx  of  whites  there.  Much  will  depend  npon  tbe  manner  in  %vhich 
the  first  prospecting  parties  are  received  by  such  chiefs  as  Gungunhana- 
If  their  reception  be  favourable^  then  certainly  something  like  a  rush 
wUl  follow,  and  some  serious  questions  as  to  territorial  sovereignty 
will  arise,  and  have  to  be  placed  upon  a  leas  vague  and  undefined  footing 
than  they  are  at  present* 

The  natives  themselves  form  one  of  the  chief  channels  for  the  spread 
•of  English  influences  throughout  this  district.  For  more  than  ten 
years  past  there  has  been  an  unceasing  circulation  of  blacks  between 
the  district  of  Delagoa  Bay — and  to  a  smaUor  extent  that  of  Inhambane 
— and  our  Soutli  African  Colonies,  and  the  great  centres  of  industry, 
such  as  Port  Elizabeth,  Durban,  and  Kimberley,  are  well  known  to 
members  of  everj-  native  family.  Every  young  black  who  wishes  to 
acquire  a  Ettle^wealth  at  once  starts  off  for  one  of  them,  and  so  great  is 


JOURKEYS  IN  THE  DISTRICT  OF  DELAGOA  BAT. 


tlie  confidence  now  felt  that  they  wait  for  no  eraigration  agent,  but 
often  travel  singly  or  in  couples  overland  or  by  the  mail-eteamer, 
returning  with  well4iDed  pockets  in  two  or  throe  years. 

Struck  by  the  uncultiTated  appearance  of  the  countr}^  and  the  com- 
paratively large  trade  done  in  it,  I  &aid  once  to  a  trader,  "  Where  are 
the  exports  or  produce  by  which  all  these  imports  are  to  be  paid?" 
**  The  produce  of  this  district/*  he  replied,  "  is  English  gold;  tho  native 
pays  for  everything  here  in  hard  cash."  And  this  is  strictly  trao ;  tho 
natural  produce  of  the  district  is  almost  nt7 ;  its  wealth  coneists  in  the 
savings  of  the  natives  from  their  earuings  in  one  of  our  South  African 
Colonies. 

Thus,  Eogliah  money  has  become  the  currency  of  the  country*  It 
is  not  too  much  to  say  that  Portuguese  money  is  unknown  outside  the 
public  offices-  Even  there  it  has  been  found  necessary  at  times  to  use 
Englieh  coin.  An  amusing  story  is  told,  how  when  the  Public  Works 
Department  attempted  to  pay  the  Kaffirs  employed  on  the  railway 
works  in  PoTtuguese  silver,  they  refused  in  a  body  to  accept  it,  saying 
"This  no  money/*  and  would  not  work  tintil  they  had  received  tho 
British  shilling,  A  knowledge  of  the  English  language,  or  rather  a 
miserable  corruption  of  it»  is  also  by  no  means  uncommon  amongst  the 
natives  of  this  district-  It  is  by  all  these  means  that  the  Anglicising 
process  I  spoke  of  above  is  being  gradually  worked  out, 

I  have  BOW  to  say  a  few  words  upon  the  railway  works.  At  the 
present  rate  of  progress  there  can  be  no  doubt  the  railway  to  Barberton 
will  tiike  years  to  construct,  if,  indeed,  it  would  ever  be  completed*  It 
is  not  easy  to  believe  that  the  effort  being  made  is  a  serious  one,  and  one 
is  inclined  rather  to  think  that  tbe  intention  is  only  to  spur  the  flagging 
energies  of  those  who  are  striving  to  form  a  company  to  undertake  its 
construction,  and  perhaps  to  check  the  Transvaal  Government  from  en- 
couraging any  rival  schemes. 

The  work  was  commenced  last  June,  and  though  9  kilometres  are 
said  to  be  ready  for  the  laying  down  of  sleepers  and  rails,  there  is  much 
work  to  be  done  yet  upon  the  first  two  miles. 

The  line  commences  at  the  harbour  jetty  in  Lorenzo  Marques,  and 
nxns  across  the  swampy  tract  which  divides  the  town  from  the  hill, 
keeping  a  course  so  close  to  the  river's  bank  that  at  every  spring  tide 
the  waves  wash  up  to  within  a  couple  of  feet  of  the  level  of  the  rails* 
Consequently,  the  destructive  action  of  the  sea  upon  this  portion  of  the 
embankment  has  already  necessitated  a  strengthening,  almost  a  recon- 
struction, of  the  original  work.  As  far  m  the  tidal  wash  acts  upon  it, 
it  is  now  being  faced  with  a  wall  of  solid  masonrj^  about  7  feet  thick  at 
the  base  and  3  feet  at  the  top,  made  of  a  hard  red  sandstone,  dug  out 
from  Eeu ben's  Point  and  carried  up  the  river  in  lighters.  W^hen  this  is 
completed  the  first  part  of  tho  work  will  be,  I  think,  tolerably  secure. 

The  advance  working  parties  are  cleariog  and  levelling  at  a  distance 


■ 


604 


JO0RNEYS  IN  THE  ^ISTBICT  OP  DELAGOA  BAT. 


of  9  kilometres  from  the  town,  but  lliore  again  the  work  is  verj  slow- 
paced ,  the  fltaff  small,  imd  lal>ourer6  few  in  number.  No  rfiila  for  the 
permanent  way,  sleepers,  or  plant  of  any  kind  has  yot  arrived  for  the 
line.  A  bad  sign,  too,  was  the  uncertain  uneasy  ring  in  the  tone  of  all 
residents,  officials  as  well  as  foreign ers,  whom  I  spoke  to  about  the 
prospects  of  the  work.  All  declared  that  nnless  a  great  change  was 
made  in  the  rate  of  progress  and  in  the  expenditure  allowed,  its  ultimate 
constniction  was  very  doubtfiih  I  believe  I  am  correct  in  saying  that 
C  oontos  per  month,  or  about  1330^,  is  the  outside  limit  allowed  at  present 
to  the  Public  Works  Department  for  this  work. 

The  recent  action  of  Katal  in  reducing  her  tariff  has  UBdoubtedly 
struck  a  heavy  blow  at  the  trade  of  Delagoa  Bay.  Cargo  consigned  to 
forwarding  agenls  at  that  part  is  now  being  stopped  and  landed  at  Natal 
for  tmnamisBion  vi^  that  colony  to  the  Transvaal, 

In  concluding  these  remarks  upon  tho  state  of  the  district  of 
Delagoa  Ba3%  I  should  not  omit  to  point  out  the  improvomentB  that 
have  Ijoen  made  in  the  town  of  Lorenzo  Mariifues  by  the  Public  Works 
Department  of  the  province.  Most  of  the  public  buildings  of  the  place 
aro  new»  and  have  been  erected  within  the  past  five  years*  Chief 
amongst  them  are  the  oustom-house,  oflSces  of  the  local  government, 
treasury  boards  and  poet-office,  and  a  fine  magazine  outside  the  to%vii 
for  the  storage  of  powder,  which  is  landed  hero  in  large  quantities  for 
the  purposes  of  trade.  Upon  the  hill  overlooking  tha  town  is  a  large 
hospital  and  a  handsome  church. 

A  work  of  great  utility  to  shipping  is  proposed  in  the  extension  of 
the  present  landing-wharf  or  pier  to  such  a  length  that  steamers  shall 
bo  able  to  go  alongside  it  to  discharge.  A  Natal  firm  is  prepared  to 
carry  this  work  out  if  it  can  secure  a  monopoly  of  the  landing  charges, 
and  has  made  a  proposal  to  the  Lisbon  Government  to  this  effect. 
Fairly  successful  efforts  have  at  last  been  made  to  drain  the  swamp 
Burrounding  tho  town,  to  which  ita  unhealthiness  is  generally  attri- 
buted, and  hundreds  of  eucalypti  have  been  raised  upon  it»  which  are 
already  12  and  15  feet  high,  whilst  thousands  more  are  being  planted. 
Thick  groves  of  bananas  in  the  swampy  flat  also  relieve  its  former  bare 
and  neglected  appearance. 

These  last-named  improvements  are  mostly  due  to  the  efforts  of  the 
residents  in  the  town,  who  have  formed  a  '*  Botanical  Sooiety  '*  amongst 
themselves,  and  are  laying  out  a  really  respectable  garden  upon  the 
slope  of  the  hilL 

•  If  the  municipal  authorities  of  the  place  properly  seconded  the 
efforts  of  the  private  residents  and  the  Public  Works  Department,  and 
the  streets  of  the  town  were  properly  cleaned  and  paved  and  lighted, 
there  would  be  even  less  justice  than  there  is  now  in  the  complaints  of 
the  **  misery  and  desolation  of  the  town  of  Lorenro  Marques'*  to  which 
the  English  South  African  press  periodically  ti-eats  us. 


.         (    505  .  )  •  ' 

Exjpedition  of  Mr.  George  P.  James  from  the  Ohanehamayo  in  Peru 

to  the  Atlantic* 

Me.  George  P.  James,  who  has  a  sugar  estate  on  the  banks  of  the^ 
Chanchamayo  river,  undertook  a  joumej  to  explore  the  region  between 
that  position  and  the  Ferene.  His  estate  is  near  the  village  of  La 
Merced  on  the  Chanchamayo.  He  set  out  on  the  17th  of  July,  1886, 
accompanied  by  an  Italian  named  Bogo,  who  oould  speak  the  language 
of  the  Chunchos,  and  was  reputed  to  have  a  certain  influence  over  thenu 
But  both  these  qualifications  appear  to*  have  been  much  exaggerated. 
Mr.  James  resolved  to  follow  up  the  tight  bank  of  the  Faucartambb,  imd 
thence  to  reach  the  famous  Cetro  de  la  Sal. 

In  the  hamlet  of  San  Luis,  which  is  situated  on  the  Cerro  de  la  Sal« 
they  found  a  missionary  named  Sala.  The  good  Father  arranged  that 
the  travellers  should  be  accompanied  by  a  lay  brother,  who  turned  out 
to  be  an  energetic  and  courageous  comrade.  The  party  took  leave  of 
the  good  Father,  and  set  out  in  the  direction  of  Falcazu,  that  is  io  say, 
they  entered  an  unknown  tract  of  ooufatry. 

James  was  armed,  with  a  repeating  rifle,  a  revolver,  and  a  well* 
sharpened  wood-knife  (macheie).  Bogo  was  also  well  armed,  and  the 
lay  brother  was  provided  with  a  machete,  an  indispensable  companion 
in  that  forest  region.  They  pushed  valiantly  on,  slipping  through  the 
dense  undergrowth,  or  opening  a  way  with  their  wood-knives,  the 
compass  being  their  only  guide.  At  length  they  came  in  sight  of  the 
river  Falcazu,  which  had  been  described  to  them  as  navigable.  This, 
unfortunately,  was  not  the  case,  at  least  in  the  dry  season,  and  it  was 
necessary  for  them  to  march  along  its  right  bank,  following  the  coarse 
of  the  stream,  and  wading  across  the  small  tributaries,  during  three 
days,  when  they  reached  a  point  where  the  riVer  was  really  navigable 
in  balsas. 

Between  the  Faucartambo  and  the  Falcaeu  they  only  met  with  one 
river  of  little  volume,  which  they  easily  cross^  It  is  one  of  the 
tributaries  of  the  Ferene. 

At  the  point  where  the  Falcazu  became  navigable,  as  well  as  at 
other  places  along  the  banks,  they  came  upon  habitations  of  wild 
Indians.  These  people  appeared  to  be  hostile  at  first,  but  as  soon  as 
they  saw  the  cordiality  with  which  the  Englishman  and  the  Italian 
drank  their  masato,  and  took  part  in  their  dances  and  noisy  amusements, 
they  forgot  their  suspicions  and  treated  the  strangers  as  old  friends. 
When  the  drinking  bout  was  over  the  chief  of  these  Indians  was  Vexy 
useful,  and  it  was  due  to  him  that  they  procured  three  small  balsas,  one 
for  each  traveller,  and  an  Indian  in  each  to  guide  them.  They  embarked- 
in  the  morning,  taking  care  to  ^ten  all  their  traps  to  the  poles  of 

*  Communicated  by  Mr.  G.  XL  Markham,  c.b.,  f.b.8.,  Secretary.    Prom  SI  Comardof 
de  Lima,  3rd  May,  1887. 


506 


EXPEDITION  OF  MR.  GEORGE  P,  JAMES 


the  balaae,  and  at  al>out  noon,  being  carried  down  by  tlie  rapid  ctureni, 
they  reached  Chincheros,  a  place  situated  at  the  point  where  the  river 
of  the  same  name  falls  into  the  Palcazii.  This  station  appeared  to  have 
commercial  relations  with  Huancabamba. 

Proceeding  on  the  voyage,  the  navigators  stopped  at  a  hut  for  tha 
night,  and  during  the  hours  of  sleep  the  three  Indians  escaped  in  one 
of  the  balsas  and  were  not  heard  of  again  ^  but  they  did  Bot  take  any- 
thing. This  accident  caused  them  to  lose  all  the  next  day,  for  the 
Indian  who  owned ^the  hut  refused  to  go  with  them.  At  length  he 
yielded  to  their  promises.  They  made  one  balsa  out  of  the  two  wMch 
the  fugitive  Indians  had  left,  and  embarked  once  more. 

After  two  hours  the  Indian,  either  by  accident  or  design,  lost  hia 
paddle  and,  on  the  pretext  of  making  another^  be  went  into  the  forest 
and  also  disappeared*  There  was  nothing  left  for  the  three  adventurers 
but  to  continue  the  voyage  alone,  and  this  they  determined  to  do. 
Kothing  occurred  during  the  following  day*  The  current  took  them 
down  the  river  with  moderate  speed,  and  no  natives  were  Been  on  ita 
banks.  In  the  evening  they  selected  a  beach  on  which  to  pass  the 
night,  continuing  the  voyage  on  the  following  day.  But  at  ten  o'clock 
in  the  forenoon  the  balsa  struck  upon  a  rock  and  capsized.  "When  Mr. 
James  came  to  the  surface  the  lay  brother  was  already  on  tho  capsized 
balsa,  and  Bogo  was  swimming  with  one  hand  on  it.  Mr.  James 
soon  reached  it  also.  Half  an  hour  afterwards,  swimming  down  the 
river  with  tho  help  of  tho  balsa,  they  succeeded  in  beaching  her  just  at 
the  point  where  the  river  La  gar  to  falls  into  tho  Palcazu. 

Tho  things  which  were  on  the  balsa  had  all  been  well  secured,  and 
with  the  exception  of  Mr,  Jamea*s  boots  nothing  was  lost  in  the  ship- 
wreck. The  afternoon  and  night  were  passed  without  food,  but  next 
morning  an  Indian  came  to  their  help,  lighted  a  fire,  and  enabled  them 
to  appease  their  hunger  with  boiled  yucae.  Having  dried  their  clothes, 
refreshed  themselves,  and  righted  tho  balsa,  they  continued  the  descent 
of  the  river,  and  arrived  next  day  at  the  junction  of  the  Pichis  with 
the  Palcazu,  when  tho  united  stream  is  called  the  Pachitea.  Here  they 
had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  the  Peruvian  indiarubber  collector  Davila, 
who  was  on  a  voyage  with  a  small  supply  of  that  product,  and  con- 
ducted them  to  a  place  called  Santa  Isabclj  the  residence  of  a  German 
indiarubber  merchant. 

They  remained  at  Santti  Isabel  for  a  whole  week,  waiting  for  another 
iudiarubber  collector.  At  length  he  arrived,  aocompanied  by  two 
monks  who  said  they  were  going  to  the  Puzuzu,  though  it  afterwards 
turned  out  that  they  were  on  their  way  to  the  Pichis.  The  lay  broiher 
joined  them,  so  that  Mr.  James  was  left  with  the  Italian  Bogo  as  his 
sole  companion.  They  made  the  voyage  down  the  Pachitea  in  a  canoe, 
guided  by  the  indiarubber  merchant.  It  was  prospcroiLS  down  the 
whole  course  of  that  great  river,  but  on  arriving  near  its  junction  with 


FROM  THE  CHANCHAMATD  IN  PERU  TO  THE  ATLANTIC. 


507 


ilie  TToftyaliy  owing  to  having  started  before  dawn^  tho  canoe  struck 
Tipon  the  trunk  of  a  tree  half  coTered  by  water  and  capsized.  This 
time  the  travellera  lost  everythiog  they  had  with  them. 

The  position  where  this  accident  befel  them  was  a  mile  above  the 
confluence  of  the  Pachitea  with  the  Ucayali.  The  canoe  was  not  stove 
in,  so  that  they  were  able  to  right  her  again  and  to  reach  a  place  where 
they  fell  in  with  the  small  steamer  Matfo^  which  took  them  down  to 
Iqiiitofi.  After  a  forced  residence  of  five  weeks  at  Iquitos,  Mr.  James 
continued  his  voyage  to  Para ;  proceeding  thence  to  Barbadoes  and 
Trinidad,  he  returned  to  Peru  by  way  of  Panama.  On  May  7th,  1887^ 
he  left  Lima  on  his  way  back  to  his  estate  on  tbe  Chanchamayo, 

During  the  whole  of  his  journey  Mr.  James  only  saw  two  snakes, 
and  one  puma,  which  walked  past  his  camp  at  night  without  doing  any 
harm.  Mr.  James  has  thrown  light  on  the  geography  of  a  part  of  the 
fores tHXJvered  montana  of  Eastern  Peru  which  was  previously  unknown. 
The  practical  results  of  his  voyage  are  not  without  interest.  I'he 
Palcazti  is  not  really  a  navigable  river,  but  the  Pichis  is  suited  for 
navigation.  The  latter  river  is  therefore  the  point  to  which  attention 
fihonld  be  turned  by  those  who  desire  to  open  a  practicable  route  from 
the  central  regions  of  Peru  to  the  Ucayali.  At  present  5000  men  from 
Tarapoto,  machete  in  hand,  are  occupied  in  felling  the  caoutchouc  trees 
on  the  hills  overlooking  the  Pichis.  The  caticho  (Castilloa?)  indiarubber 
tree  is  felled,  while  the  Jeve  (Hevea  or  Siphonia  ?)  is  merely  cut  across 
the  bark  of  the  trunk,  to  obtain  the  caoutchouc  juice.  Hence  the 
mischief  that  is  being  done  by  these  .5000  men  from  Tarapoto  is  con- 
siderable, although  the  caucho  trees  increase  and  multiply  with  com- 
parative rapidity.  Another  army  of  depredators  comes  up  the  Ucayali, 
and  another  np  the  Yavari,  for  the  exclusive  benefit  of  Brazilian  trade. 

Mr.  James  does  not  think  that  it  would  be  of  immediate  utility  to 
open  a  road  from  Chanchamayo  to  the  Pichis,  because,  by  the  time  it 
was  finished  the  5000  cuucJieros  would  have  completed  the  work  of 
destruction.  It  would  be  useless  to  open  such  a  road  for  purposes  of 
exportation  so  long  as  a  heavier  freight  is  paid  for  goods  from  Iquitos 
to  Par^  than  from  Callao  to  Europe.  As  regards  the  export  of  timber 
on  a  large  scale,  there  already  exists  a  North  American  colony  at 
Santarem  occupied  entirely  in  the  timber  trade. 

In  Mr*  James's  view  the  most  useful  measure,  as  regards  the 
Peruvian  forest  region,  which  is  very  fertile  and  enjoys  a  healthy  and 
agreeable  climate,  would  be  its  colonisation.  When  that  is  effected  the 
construction  of  good  routcB  to  the  Ucayali  will  become  necessary. 

Mr.  James  is  an  enthusiastic  traveller,  and  is  willing  to  take  part  in 
any  other  exploring  expedition  which  may  be  undertaken  by  the 
Peruvian  Government. 


(    508    ) 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 

Expedition  to  the  Highlandi  of  New  Gainea, — The  expedition  under 
preparation  at  Melbourne  for  the  exploration  of  the  Owon  Stanley  range* 
to  which  onr  President  alluded  in  his  recent  Anniversary  Address,* 
is  to  bo  plaaed  under  the  command  of  Mr.  Cuthbertsoii ;  the  Council  of 
the  Geographical  Society  of  Yictoria,  who  havo  the  management  of  the 
expedition,  being  in  doubt  whether  the  Rev.  J.  Chalmers's  other  engage- 
ments would  admit  of  his  undertafciDg  the  journey  during  the  present 
year.  Mr.  Cuthbertson  has  had  considerable  experience  as  a  surveyor 
in  New  Guinea  and  North  Borneo,  and  is  acquainted  with  the  Malay 
language  and  some  of  the  dialects  of  New  Guinea.  The  objects  of  the 
expedition  are  to  be  purely  Boientific,  the  chief  aim  being  to  ascertain 
the  nature  of  the  elevated  land  of  the  interior,  A  naturalist  (Mr.  Sayer) 
will  be  attached  to  the  exploring  party,  and  the  Government  of 
Victoria  have  granted  1000/.  to  defray  the  expenaes.-^lt  is  reported  that 
Mr.  H-  O.  Forbes  is  about  to  undertake,  under  the  direction  of  the  Special 
CominisBioner  of  New  Guinea,  a  journey  overland  direct  from  Hood  Bay 
to  Dyke  Acland  Bay,  crossing  the  lower  elevations  to  the  south-east  of 
Mount  Owen  Stanley. 

CMneie  Turkistan. — A  correspondent  of  the  Geographical  Society 
of  Paris  has  transmitted  to  that  Society  an  extract  of  a  letter  from 
M.  Bonvalot  giving  a  brief  account  of  the  importani  work  accomplished 
by  Captain  Gromhcliefski  in  Chinese  Turkistan.  This  Russian  oflRcer 
was  charged  in  the  year  1885  with  a  mission  to  determine  the  frontier 
line  of  Ferghana  on  the  borders  of  Chinese  Kashgaria  aa  far  as  the 
Euseian  fortress  of  Irketchtam,  In  the  course  of  his  mission  the  traveller 
explored  the  whole  region  of  Kashgaria.  He  has  executed  surveys  of  the 
routes  followed  by  him,  viz,  those  leading  from  Kaabgar  to  Ladak,  and 
from  Ferghana  to  the  northern  border  of  Kashmir  by  the  Pamir  plateau. 
The  detailed  account  of  his  journeys,  of  which  only  a  limited  number  of 
copies  have  heen  published,  contains  important  information  on  the 
military  forces  of  China  in  that  region,  and  also  on  the  commerce  and 
natural  wealth  of  Kashgaria.  Captain  Grombchefski  encountered 
great  difficulties,  chiefly  owing  to  the  hostile  attitude  of  the  Chinese, 
Throughout  the  whole  of  his  journey  he  experienced  heavy  rains  which 
rendered  the  ordinary  routes  impracticable.  He  arrived  at  K  ash  gar  on 
the  day  on  which  a  mutiny  had  broken  out  among  the  Chinese  soldiers, 
and  it  was  only  by  a  miracle  that  he  escaped  with  his  life, 

Few  Enasian  Expedition  into  Central  Asia.— An  important  expedi- 

tion  started  in  May  last  from  Irkutsk  for  the  purpose  of  exploring  the 

Sayan   Mountains,    Lake   Kosaogol,   and   the  sources  of  the  Yenisei, 

Colonel  Bolyr  is  in  command,   and  the  party  includes   eeyeral  topo- 

*  •  Proceedinga  R.G.S.;  anU^  p.  344. 


GEOGBAPHICAL  KOTES* 


509 


grapliere  and  an  astronomer.  M-  Mal^eroff,  the  gBologist  and  natnralist, 
lias  charge  of  tho  geological  part  of  the  work*  Important  results  to 
the  cartography  of  this  region  are  expected  from  tho  expedition. 

MM*  Capns  and  Bonvalot. — These  conrageous  travellers  have  snc- 
coeded  in  their  hazardous  enterprise  of  crossing  the  Pamir  and  Hindu 
Knali  into  British  India.  3M,  Bonvalot  wrote  to  us  from  Chitral  on 
May  28thj  stating  that  his  party  had  arrived  there  nearly  destitute 
of  resources  and  were  threatened  to  be  turned  back  on  tho  ground 
that  they  were  Russians.  The  Indian  Govemmont  has  since  inter- 
vened to  extricate  them  from  their  difficult  position.  It  will  bo  re- 
membered that,  according  to  the  last  news  *  recorded  by  us,  they  were 
on  the  eve  of  departure  from  Margbilan,  intendiag  to  reach  British 
India  across  the  plateau  of  the  Pamir,  Since  then  the  news  received  in 
Europe  has  been  of  a  fragmentary  description.  It  appears  they  left 
Marghilan  about  the  beginning  of  March,  and  travelling  westwards  to 
I'sh  entered  the  Alai  Pass,  which  M.  Bonvalot  had  by  a  march  in 
advance  found  to  be  practicable*  On  the  15th  March  they  were  in 
camp  at  Ak-Baaoga  at  the  foot  of  the  defile  of  Taldyk  and  four  days* 
march  from  Lake  Kara-kul.  Since  then  nothing  had  been  heard  of 
them  until  the  news  of  their  arrival  at  ChitraL  It  is  evident  that  they 
were  compelled  to  diverge  from  the  route  originally  laid  down,  which 
after  leaving  Lake  Kara-kul  lay  south-south-east  to  Kundjut,  whereas 
that  actually  followed  was  to  tho  south-west. 

The  Freneh  Expeditions  in  the  interior  of  Senegal. — A  preliminary 

sketch  of  fiomo  of  the  results  of  these  expeditions,  to  which  wo  recently 
referred^f  has  been  sent  to  the  Geographical  Society  of  Paris  by  Lieut- 
Colonel  Gallieni,  the  governor  of  the  French  Possessions  of  the  Senegal. 
Tho  operations  of  the  two  military  columns,  which  proceeded  against 
the  marabout  Mahmadu  Lamino  at  Diana,  resulted  in  tho  ignominious 
flight  of  the  latter.  Tho  topographical  work  of  these  detachments 
includes  surveys  of  the  valley  of  the  Nieriko,  the  upper  Gambia  and  tho 
hitherto  unexplored  parts  of  tho  Tale  mo.  Two  special  missions  of 
officers  had  quitted  Diana,  on©  had  surveyed  the  country  between  the 
Faleme  and  the  Tankisso,  the  other,  under  Captain  Oberdorf,  had  crossed 
the  Gambia  at  Badu,  and  the  Faleme  at  Erimana,  and  had  penetrated 
to  Dinguiray,  which  had  never  before  been  visited  by  a  European.  Tho 
whole  region  had  been  placed  under  the  protectorate  of  France.  The 
TJassulu  mission  had  succeeded  in  concluding  a  most  advantageous 
treaty  with  Almany  Samory,  by  which  the  Kiger  and  tho  Tankisso 
from  their  sources  conatituto  tho  boundary  between  the  French  Sudan 
and  the  dominions  of  Samory,  who,  furthermore,  has  agreed  to  place  all 
his  possessions  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  under  French  protection. 
The  country,  therefore,  now  under  the  protectorate  of  Franco,  extends 

•  '  FruoeedingH  B.G^./*  anU^  j\.  mi.  •  Ibid,  p.  240. 


610 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


on  the  TJglit  ^bank  of  the  Niger  from  Segu  to  Sierra  Leon©  and  the 
Eepiiblic  of  Liberia,  th\is  including  the  whole  of  Fnta-Djallon. 

Eegion  of  the  Upper  Higer. — Dr.  G.  A.  KrauBe,  to  whose  journeys 
on  the  Volt  a  river  we  have  had  occasion  to  refer,  ^  has  "ftdthin  the 
last  year  accomplished  an  important  jonrnej  in  the  unknown  country 
lying  in  the  groat  bend  of  the  Niger.  Although  unsuccessful  in 
carrying  out  bis  original  intention  of  reacliiug  Timbuktu  from  Salaga, 
he  has  nevertheless  achieved  a  great  success,  having  traversed  regions 
unknown  before  and  peneti-ated  to  within  156  miles  of  Tim^buktu.  We 
have  received  two  letters  from  the  traveller,  one  dated  October  23rd» 
1886j  the  other  27th  Apiil,  giving  a  brief  outline  of  his  route.  He 
hegius  by  stating  that  he  left  Berlin  on  hia  present  journey  on  the 
2lBt  March,  188G,  aniviug  at  Accra  on  the  Gold  Coast  on  the  22nd 
April,  and  leaving  that  place  for  the  interior  on  the  1 2th  May.  From 
Salaga  he  proceeded  to  Wogbodogho  (Waga-Dugu),  the  chief  town  of 
tb©  Mofii  country,  and  travelling  northwards  through  the  provinces  of 
Tema  and  Yadega,  arrived  at  Ban,  the  first  point  within  the  kingdom 
of  the  Sheik  Tidjani,  one  of  the  sons  of  El-Hiidj  Omar,  who  for  a  long 
time  caused  the  French  so  much  trouble  in  Senegal.  On  15tb  November 
he  reached  the  largo  town  of  Duensa,  the  centre  of  the  salt  trade,  whence 
he  made  an  excursion  across  a  high  plateau  to  the  south-west  for  a 
distance  of  75  miles  to  Ban*Djagara,  the  seat  of  Tidjiini,  in  order  to  got 
permisaion  to  continue  his  journey  northwards.  Armed  with  the 
neceflsar}'  authority,  he  returned  to  Duensa  and  set  out  for  Timbuktu  on 
the  7  th  December,  under  the  protection  of  the  chief.  On  the  following 
day,  however,  he  received  a  command  to  return  to  Mosi,  The  farthest 
point  reached  was  23  miles  nortb-north-eafit  of  Duensaj  abtiut  1|  days' 
march  westward  of  the  village  of  Bone,  indicated  on  Baiili's  itinerary. 
From  the  first  the  conduct  of  the  cbief  towards  him  was  equivocal. 
He  could  have  continued  hm  journey  to  Timbuktu  at  the  price  of 
apostasy.  The  country  between  Salaga  and  Musi  is  a  plain  watered  by 
many  streams  belonging  to  the  Y olta  system  and  clothed  with  scattered 
trees.  Between  Mosi  and  Duensa  there  were  no  rivers,  only  depreBSions 
which  are  filled  with  water  in  the  rainy  season ;  and  he  was  unable  to 
find  the  sources  of  the  Eastern  Yolta.  Eetracing  his  steps  to  Mosi,  he 
set  out  from  Woghodogho  on  22nd  January  on  an  excursion  south  and 
south-west  to  Sinaani  Gasiiri,  which  he  calls  the  greatest  den  of  thiev-es 
in  the  world.  Thence  by  way  of  Fujishi,  Wa,  and  Bole  he  marched  to 
Kintimfj  in  Ashantee,  first  visited  by  Captain  Kirby  in  1884,  crossing 
on  his  route  a  western  arm  of  the  Volta,  He  eventually  returned  down 
the  Volta  to  Salaga,  where  he  arrived  at  the  end  of  April,  having 
exhausted  all  his  stock  of  goods.  He  had  accomplished  all  his  explora- 
tion with  the  most  limited  resources,  having  had  on  landing  on  the 

»  See  •Pioceediaga  R.Q.8.,*  188C,  p.  722. 


CmOGRAPmCAL  MOTES.  511 

Oold  Coast  only  a  little  over  5Z.,  as  sole  means  for  the  long  journey  to 
Salaga.  Unable,  from  lack  of  means,  to  further  pursue  his  travels,  he 
was  about  to  return  to  Europe,  which  he  hoped  to  reach  about 
September.  He  intended  to  return  to  the  coast  by  a  new  route,  marching 
for  twelve  days  eastward  to  Soguede,  and  then  south  to  the  coast. 
Throughout  his  travels  Dr.  Krause  had  excellent  health. 

The  Coast  Begion  of  South-Westem  Africa. — ^The  current  number 
of  Petermann's  '  Mittellungen '  contains  a  map  of  the  Lower  Euisip 
valley,  in  the  Walfish  Bay  region,  embodying  the  surveys  and  explora- 
tions made  by  Dr.  F.  M.  Stapfif  in  the  course  of  a  complete  exploration 
of  the  country  executed  from  December  1885  to  May  1886.  The 
traveller  also  contributes  a  paper  dealing  in  detail  with  the  geology 
and  physical  features  of  the  district,  which  forms  a  contribution 
well  worthy  to  rank  with  the  admirable  observations  of  Mr.  Francis 
Galton  in  the  same  region,  thirty-seven  years  ago.  "Great  Nama 
Land,"  as  Dr.  Stapff  terms  the  country,  may  be  divided,  he  says,  as 
regards  its  natural  formation  into  three  parts,  (1)  the  stony  desert  or 
Namieb  in  the  north,  (2)  the  valley  of  the  Euisip,  and  (3)  the  sandy 
dunes  in  the  south.  The  Namieb  is  an  extensive  plain,  rising  with  an 
almost  imperceptible  ascent  from  the  sea  until,  at  about  60  miles  from 
Walfish  Bay,  the  traveller  finds  himself  at  an  elevation  of  nearly 
2000  feet  above  the  sea-level.  The  plain  is  broken  by  mountains, 
isolated  or  in  small  groups,  whose  dark  crags  contrast  sharply  with  the 
grey-yellow  plain.  Not  a  tree  or  bush  interrupts  the  prospect  of  limit- 
less desert.  These  apparently  isolated  mountains,  however,  belong  to 
chains  running  north-east  to  south-west.  The  rounding-oflf  and  per- 
foration of  the  clifiGs  is  due  to  the  wind-driven  sand.  The  rain-water 
collects  in  pools  or  "  vleys,"  and  evaporating,  leaves  increasing  deposits 
of  salt  and  sand.  In  these  and  in  the  sandy  river-beds  grow  deep-rooted 
trees.  Other  vegetation  springs  up  rapidly  after  the  rains,  but  soon 
withers.  The  prevailing  wind  is  south-west,  but  from  May  to  July  it 
frequently  blows  from  the  north-east.  The  dunes  between  the  Namieb 
and  the  sea-coast  form  a  belt  of  sandy  desert,  which  between  the  Orange 
river  and^the  Kuisip  is  100  miles  broad.  Dr.  Stapff  does  not  support 
the  theory  that  these  dunes  have  been  formed  by  the  sand  blown  inland 
by  the  south-west  wind.  He  regards  them  as  upheaved  sea-banks, 
which  have  been  moulded  to  their  present  form  by  the  action  of  the 
wind.  In  the  heart  of  the  sandy  desert  he  frequently  found  odd 
fragments  of  polished  and  perforated  sea-shells,  even  at  a  height  of 
1000  feet  above  the  sea-level,  which  may,  however,  have  been  carried 
thither  by  the  sea  wind.  The  banks  of  shell-fish  along  the  route  from 
Riet  to  Fredriksdam  |and  round  Walfish  Bay  clearly  point  to  an  up- 
heaval of  the  land  in  ancient  times,  which  probably  extended  to  the 
whole  of  the^South-west  African  coast.  As  regards  the  river  valley, 
there  is  good  reason  for  supposing    that  the  course  of  the  Kuisip 


512 


GEOGKAFHICAL  NOTES. 


formerly  ran  more  to  the  n<)rtli-oast,  and  that  on  its  left  the  Bfiiidj 
dunes  have  oneroacbed  upon  the  river.  This  ia  no  donbt  to  l3€  explained 
hy  its  small  volume  of  water.  Hahn's  theory  of  an  arm  of  the  river 
formerly  running  through  the  dunes  to  Sandfi«h  Bay  is,  according  to 
the  writer,  nn tenable.  The  dying  away  of  tree  vegetation  in  the  river 
valley  appears  to  point  to  a  diminished  flow  of  water.  Many  ancient  or 
partly  withered  ebony,  wild  fif^^  and  other  trees  are  to  be  seen,  but  no 
new  wood.  After  the  heavy  rains  the  river  in  its  lower  and  broader 
reaches  overflows  and  bears  away  in  its  yellow  flood  tree-trunks  and 
the  htita  of  the  Hottentotis.  Tbo  overflowing  water  quickly  percolates 
the  eandy  dnnes.  The  writer  gives  much  interesting  information  as 
to  the  level  of  this  water  underground,  which  could  be  utilised  for 
cultivation,  aa  in  the  Algerian  "  chotts," 

Meteorology  ia  the  Argentiue  Eepublic— The  Government  of  the 
province  of  Cordova,  acting  on  the  initiative  of  Professor  0.  Doering, 
has  grantc^i  the  necessary  funds  for  the  eatabliahment  of  a  network  of 
meteorological  Btations  over  the  province.  It  is  proposed  to  erect  nearly 
forty  stations.  Professor  Doering»  who  has  made  many  valuable  con- 
tributions to  our  knowledge  of  the  meteorology  of  the  Argentine 
Kopublic,  has  been  appointed  head  of  the  service,  and  the  private 
station  erected  and  fitted  up  by  him  will  form  for  the  present  the 
central  post.  Pending  the  arrival  of  the  requisite  instruments  from 
Germany,  obaervations  will  not  be  commenced  until  February  next. 
The  east  and  extreme  south  of  the  province  have  hitherto  remained 
unknown  because  of  the  lack  of  qualified  observers  in  these  thinly 
peopled  districts.  The  scientific  value  of  this  undertaking  is  enhanced 
by  the  great  diversity  of  the  positions  of  the  stations,  e.  g.  pampas, 
•wooded  plains,  mountains,  and  salt  lakes,  and  in  their  elevation, 
©,  g,  that  of  Tortugas  at  a  height  of  only  24U  feet,  whereas  Champagui 
peak  is  9425  feet.  In  any  case  this  series  of  meteorological  stations  will 
bo  the  most  complete  and  important  system  in  South  America,  and  the 
practical  results  cannot  fail  to  be  of  great  service  to  geographers  in 
studying  the  climate  of  the  country, 

Patagonia. — The  results  of  a  journey  made  in  Patagonia  by  Lieu- 
tenant A.  del  Castillo  have  been  csommunicated  to  Potermann's  *]Mitteil- 
ungen '  fNo.  7).  The  object  of  the  traveller  was  to  explore  thoroughly 
the  stretch  of  country  lying  between  the  rivers  Gallegos  and  Santa 
Cruz,  and  to  survey  the  harbours  on  the  Pacific  coast  mentioned  by 
Captain  Moyano  on  his  last  expedition.  The  journey,  which  was  begun 
early  in  January  last,  was  undertaken  at  the  exponse  of  the  traveller 
and  of  a  few  private  individuals*  The  following  are  some  of  the  chief 
results  of  the  expedition.  A  navigable  waterway  was  found  to  exist 
between  the  two  oceans  along  the  Santa  Cruz  and  canals  connected 
therewith,    In  these  southern  districts  the  line  of  highest 


; 


Ls  connectea     ^m 
i&t  elevation    ^^| 

_1 


REPORT  OF  THE  JsvjuiiNO  IfSEnKOS^  S18 

pTesents  some  remarkable  onrree,  as  the  Oordilleras  are  broken  by 
different  canals.  The  barbonrs  of  the  Gallegos  pampas  were  ascertained 
to  be  deep,  spacious,  atid  completely  sheltered;  the  zone  of  pampas 
lying  to  the  east  of  these  harboniB  is  consequently  inhabitable  dnring 
the  winter,  and  well  suited  for  cattle.  There  are  beds  of  sea-coal  of 
incalculable  value  covering  a  belt  of  20  nautical  miles.  The  traveller 
ascended  the  Gallegos  in  an  improvised  oanoe  up  to  its  source,  and 
concludes  that  the  river  is  |  navigable  without  difficulty  at  certain 
seasons  of  the  year.  The  course  of  this  river  was  carefully  determined. 
He  ascertained  that  the  Bio  Turbio,  a  northern  affluent  of  the  Gallegos, 
rises  in  a  ravine  formed  by  the  Latoire  and  Coronel  Bamirez  'chains 
lying  to  the  south-east  of  the  valley  of  the  Guerrioo.  He  is  of  opinion 
that  the  Grallegos  could  be  connected  by  canals  with  the  harbours  of  the 
west  coast  at  a  comparatively  small  cost. 


REPOET  OP  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS,  SESSION  1886-7. 

Fourteenth  Meeting,  27<%  June^  1887. — General  B.  Strachet,  B.E., 
President,  in  the  Chair. 

Electiokb. — Alfred  Edward  Ann^  Esq. ;  Lieut,  Arthur  Ooj^va^  B.K.B. ;  Affleok 
FraseTy  Esq, ;  Wm,  Henry  KnigJU^  Esq. ;  Colonel  Edxvard  Peniberton  Leach^  v.c, 
CD.,  B.E. ;  James  E,  Mason,  Esq,,  O.M.G. ;  Wm.  George  Motley,  Esq, ;  John  Lambe 
Higden, Esq, ;  Oeorge  Simpson,  Esq,;  Benjamin  Taylor,  Esq, 

The  Jubilee  Addbess  to  the  Queek. 
The  President  annoonced  that  an  Address  to  Her  Majesty  the  Queen,  on  the 
occasion  of  completing  the  fiftieth  year  of  her  reign,  had  been  prepared  on  behalf  of 
the  Gonncil  and  the  Society  and  had  been  forwarded  to  the  Home  Secretary  for 
presentation.  The  Secretary,  Mr.  Douglas  Freshfield,  read  the  Address  to  the 
meeting  (vide  *  Proceedings,'  July  No.,  p.  438). 

The  papers  read  were : — 

(1)  **  Preliminary  account  of  his  Mission  to  the  Namuli  Hills,  East  Africa."  By 
J.  T.  Last,  Esq.,  conunanding  the  Society's  Expedition  to  South-east  Africa.  Ante, 
p.  467. 

(2)  "  Journey  through  Yemen."   By  Major-General  F.  T.  Haig.    Ante,  p.  479. 


PBOCEEDINGS  OP  FOBEIGN  SOCIETIES. 

Oeographical  Society  of  Fari8.--June  3rd,  1887 :  M.  Janksek,  of  the 
Institute,  in  the  chair. — Among  the  works  presented  was  a  translation  of  a  report 
Avhich  the  author,  M.  Jules  Popper,  had  read  before  the  Argentine  Geographical 
Institute  on  the  expedition  made  under  his  direction  in  Tierra  del  Fnega  The 
paper  was  accompanied  by  a  series  of  43  photographic  views.  The  following 
information  concerning  the  progress  of  geography  in  Russia  was  communicated  by 


Bli 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIEa 


M,  Yenukoff  i— The  works  for  the  enlarge  men  t  of  the  canal  between  the  basias  of 
the  Obi  and  Yenisei  had  been  commenced  after  the  breakiog  up  of  the  ice  in  the 
rivers.  A  aom  of  24,000?.  bad  been  pkced  &t  the  disposal  of  the  eDgineera.  The 
Sayan  MonntainB,  the  sources  of  the  YeniBei,  Lake  Kossogol  and  ita  vicioity,  would 
be  explored  thia  summer  by  Colonel  Bolyr,  who  would  have  under  hia  orders  several 
topographers.  A  naturalist,  M,  Makeroff,  was  attached  to  the  expedition.  The 
observ^ations  necessary  for  determining  the  coefficient  of  desiccation  of  the  lakes  of 
Central  Asia  would  be  commenced  this  year  under  the  auspices  of  the  Geographical 
8ociety  of  Russia.  M.  Potanin  had  given  before  the  same  Society  the  details 
gathered  by  him  regarding  the  inhabitants  of  Amdo^  in  the  north-west  of  China. 
The  populatioD  amounta  to  100,000,  for  the  roost  part  Buddhists.  M,  Prejevalsky 
gave  Iheni  the  name  of  Dalde,  but  M.  PotanLn  that  of  Cbirandole;  they  are  the 
Si- fans  of  the  Chinese  authors. — On  the  3rd  MaTcb  the  Emperor  of  Russia  made  hia 
annual  inspection  of  the  topographical,  bydrographical,  and  geodetical  works  executed 
in  the  Russian  Empire  during  the  year  1886.  Among  the  most  interestiog,  geog«u 
phically,  were  the  topographical  surveys  of  the  region  separating  Russia  and  Bokhara 
from  Afghanistan,  and  the  exploralioiis  made  in  the  eastern  part  of  Bokhara  by 
MM,  Schwartz,  Kndneffj  and  others.  The  geography  of  the  country  watered  by 
tlie  sources  of  the  Amn-Daria  was  at  last  established  u|x)n  solid  astronomical  and 
topographical  bases,  M.  Gram-Grjimailo  would  continue  this  year  his  zoological 
aad  botanical  studies  in  the  region  of  the  Pamir,  MM,  Bunge  and  Toll  had  com- 
menc&d  the  publication  of  the  results  of  their  recent  journey  in  the  Kew  Siberian 
Archipelago, — Several  notes  on  different  subjects  were  sent  by  M,  R,  du  Caillaud, 
including  one  on  the  department  of  Lim-Chau, — A  letter,  dated  3rd  May,  from  Raa 
Sabun  (Sabani)  was  read  from  M.  Tuisserenc  de  Bort,  giving  some  account  of  his 
work  and  stating  that  he  bad  not  been  able  to  penetrate  into  the  interior.  The 
letter  haviog  been  read,  the  Chairman  aDUounced  that  the  author  had  just  returned 
home  from  this  his  third  journey  in  the  Algerian  Sahara.  His  travek,  he  said,  had 
resulted  in  the  preparation  of  a  magnetic  map  of  country,  which  would  prove  a 
valuable  contribution  to  our  knowledge  of  North  Africa. -^M,  Lagrange  explained  to 
the  meeting  the  mechanism  of  the  **  Cosmographe,"  an  apparatus  of  which  be  is  the 
inventor.— Some  historical  notes  on  the  island  of  Soootra  were  read  by  Baron  d'Avril. 
— In  conclusion^  M.  Edmond  Ponel  ijave  an  account  of  liis  travels  in  the  C^ngo 
basin  and  along  some  of  the  northern  affluents  of  that  great  river.  In  August  1884 
he  was  attached  to  the  French  West  African  Misaion,  He  mads  a  reconnaissance 
of  the  river  N'Kheni  during  August  and  September  1885,  where  he  established  the 
station  of  Fua-KUche-N*tche.  In  the  following  November  be  was  appointed  to  the 
station  of  N'Eundjia,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Mobangi,  which  he  ascended  to  a  f>oint 
2**  north  of  the  Equator.  During  a  sojoum  of  two  and  a  half  years  in  the  midst  of  the 
savage  tribes  of  the  interior,  M.  Ponel  made  numerous  observations.  The  domestic 
life  of  the  Ba-Bangi  wns  vividly  depicted  to  the  meeting.  The  feast  of  the  rains, 
the  return  of  the  canoes,  the  complicated  style  of  hair- dressing,  and  the  barbarous 
ceremonies  accompanying  the  death  of  the  chiefs  were  successively  tiescribed.  He 
also  gave  much  information  of  commercial  interest. 

June  17th,  1887 ;  M.  Jakssen  in  the  chair. — M.  G.  Rolland,   mining 

engineer,  forwarded  a  copy  of  his  recent  communication  to  the  Academy  of 
Sciences  on  the  "  Regime  dea  eaux  artesiennes  do  TOued  Rir.*'  In  this  note  he 
gives  some  new  information  regarding  the  artesian  basin  of  the  Oued  Rir,  and 
expresses  his  belief  thiit  notwithstanding  the  sounding  operations  which  have 
been  going  on  for  the  last  thirty  years,  the  limit  of  the  supply  of  !?pring  water  is 
still  far  from  being  reached. — A  communication  was  presented  by  M.  A.  Woeikoflf 
on  the  total  eclipsse  of  the  sun  on  the  19  th  August  next  and  the  best  means  of 


PROCKEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOGUCTIES.  816*^ 

obeerying  it.— M.  G.  Marcel,  of  the  Geographical  Section  of  the  National  Library, 
addressed  a  letter  to  the  Society  with  reference  to  the  ancient  geographical  documents 
existing  in  the  Tarious  libraries  of  Paris,  together  with  a  list  of  the  same. — An 
extract  from  a  letter  of  M.  Bonvalot  relating  to  the  work  of  Colonel  Grombchefski 
in  Kasbgaria,  was  sent  by  M.  Maillet. — ^A  letter  was  read  from  Lieut.-Golonel 
Gallicni,  chief-in-command  of  the  French  Sudan,  giving  an  account  of  his  work  down 
to  April  last. — ^M.  H.  Duveyrier  forwarded  the  translation  of  a  letter  received  from 
M.  G.  A.  Krause  on  his  travels  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Salaga. — A  communication 
which  had  been  addressed  by  Dr.  Emile  Hassler  to  M.  £.  Wenz,  was  sent  by  the 
latter  to  the  Society.  The  author  gives  an  account  of  several  interviews  which  he 
had  with  M.  de  Brettes  at  Asimcion.  M.  de  Brettes  and  his  companion  M.  Boiviers, 
a  hydrographer,  started  in  July  last  from  Buenos  Ayres  on  a  mission  to  Gran  Chaoa 
The  Argentine  Government  had  promised  them  a  military  escort,  but  on  arrival  at 
Villa  Formosa,  the  Governor,  Colonel  Fotheringham,  made  excuses  for  not  affording 
them  the  assistance  promised.  They  proceeded  therefore  to  Corrientes  and  made  a 
two  months'  excursion  up  the  Parana  and  the  Paraguay  as  far  as  Asuncion,  in  the 
course  of  which  they  took  numerous  astronomical  observations  and  corrected  the 
hydrographical  map  of  these  two  rivers.  They  had  now  determined  to  accomplish 
their  mission,  relying  on  their  own  resources  alone,  and  intended  to  reach  Tarifa  with 
an  escort  of  Indians. — ^The  Chairman  intimated  that  M.  Morisot,  who  had  accompanied 
M.  Cbafianjon  on  his  recent  expedition  up  the  Orinoco,  was  present  at  the  meeting. 
He  afterwards  announced  that  Dr.  Hamy  was  also  present,  having  returned  from  his 
important  travels  in  Tunis  in  company  with  M.  Errington  de  la  Croix.  The  object 
of  this  mission  was  to  ascertain  the  exact  nature  and  geographical  distribution  of 
the  native  monuments,  known  in  Tunis  as  "  dolmens."  After  visiting  the  Djcbel 
Debbeb  chain,  Sahel,  and  Enfida,  with  this  object,  the  expedition  terminated  with  an 
exploration  of  the  peak  of  Cherichera. — ^The  General  Secretary  called  attention  to 
two  beautiful  collections  of  photographic  views,  one  relating  to  South  Algeria,  the 
other  to  the  Orinoco. — ^M.  Yirlct  d'Aoust  laid  on  the  table  a  memoir  for  publication 
in  the  Bulletin,  entitled  ''Notes  historiques  concemant  Taction  de  Thuile  sur  les 
vagues  de  la  mer,"  and  added  a  few  verbal  explanations  on  the  subject — ^A  paper 
was  then  read  by  M.  de  Rochemonteix  on  the  results  of  the  census  of  the  population 
of  Egypt  The  paper  was  principally  occupied  with  the  consideration  of  the  native 
inhabitants  and  their  history. — ^In  conclusion,  the  Secretary  stated  that  this  meeting 
brought  the  session  to  a  close,  and  urged  upon  the  members  to  endeavour  to  increase 
the  numbers  of  the  Society,  which  were  not  satisfactory.  The  Chairman  announced 
that  one  of  the  members  of  the  Society,  M.  Pierre  ^de  Balaschoff,  had  placed  at  the 
disposal  of  the  Society  the  sum  of  240/.  to  be  used  in  assisting  MM.  Capus  and 
Bonvalot  in  their  travels  in  Central  Asia,  the  two  intrepid  explorers  having  becD 
plundered  of  all  their  goods  by  the  natives. 

Geographical  Society  of  Berlin,  June  4th  1887:  Herr  W.  Reibs  in  the 
chair.  Dr.  Kuckenthal,  lecturer  on  zoology  at  Jena,  gave  an  account  of  the  voyage 
made  by  him  last  summer  in  Spitzbergen  waters  on  board  a  small  whaler  of  TromsJ5« 
The  object  of  the  journey  was  principally  soological.  He  left  Tromsd  about  the  end 
of  April,  and  as  it  was  still  too  early  in  the  year  for  an  advance  to  Spitzbergen,  the 
whaler  was  engaged  in  hunting  the  Byperoodon  ro$tratuSy  which  is  only  met  with  on 
the  high  seas  between  Spitzbergen  and  East  Greenland.  The  brown-green  colouring  of 
the  water  in  these  parts  is  produced  by  minute  one-celled  algsB,  which  serve  as  food 
for  small  red  copepoda,  upon  which,  in  their  turn,  the  fish  feed.  The  presence  of 
this  wealth  of  fish-food  in  those  high  latitudes  permits  apparently  of  an  explanation, 
if  the  immense  shoals  of  fish  which  annually  make  their  appearance  off  the  coasts  of 
Norway  and  Scotland  come  from  the  north.    The  hills  of  Spitzbergen  were  sighted 

NcYm.— Aug.  1887-]  2  p 


516 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOinGIT  SOCIETIES. 


on  tlie  13tli  June>  but  it  was  not  till  the  23rd  tliat  tke  ship  was  Mq  to  mn  into 
Ice  Sound.  Here  the  cre^r  «et  to  work  to  capture  white  wbales,  which  are  caught  in 
herds.  A  stout  net,  more  than  100  yards  long,  is  spread  out  in  the  form  of  a  semU 
circle  in  fallow  water;  the  fish  are  driven  into  it  and  epeared.  The  hlubberof  this 
apocies  of  whale  h  of  a  suj^erior  quality  ;  its  skin  furnishea  the  finest  leather.  The 
traveller  took  the  opportunity  of  making  a  boat  journey  to  explore  the  almost 
unknown  interior  of  Ice  Sound,  the  results  of  which  will  rectify  very  considerably 
our  maps  of  the  Sound,  In  Sasaen  Bay  there  is  one  of  the  moat  remarkable  moun- 
tain formations  in  the  world,  viz.  the  Temple  Mountain.  A  wall  of  rock,  about 
G  miles  long  and  330O  feet  high,  risea  perpendicularly  out  of  the  water.  It  is  com- 
|K»ed  of  a  confused  mass  of  lofty  pillars  and  columna,  with  arches  an^  windows 
t>etweeu,  which  are  grouped  together,  and  form  three  distinct  scries,  one  above  the 
-other.  The  whole,  shining  with  a  yellowish-brown  colour  in  the  distance,  gives  the 
unjifosslon  of  a  gigantic  temple  stnicture.  A  level  snow-plaio,  from  w^hich  rushing 
streams  precipitate  themselves  into  the  depths  below,  forms  the  roof.  From  North 
Sound  the  traveller  also  visited  Nordenskiold's  winter  quarters  of  1872,  w^hich  lie 
found  in  a  good  state  of  preservation.  The  door  of  the  house,  however,  was  wrenched 
^off,  and  the  interior  was  in  a  condition  of  wild  disorder,  books,  flasks^  &c.,  lying 
scattered  about  on  the  ground.  This  confusion  was  the  work  of  eighteen  sailors  who 
wintered  there  in  1872-3,  and  all  died  from  scurvy.  The  formation  of  North  Sound 
is  quite  different  from  that  shown  on  I3uner*a  map;  both  arms  are  in  reality  twice 
as  long  as  broad-  After  capturing  fifty  white  whales,  worth  together  about  300/., 
the  ship  returned  to  TromsCi  on  3rd  September.^ — Lieutenant  Kund  gave  a  sketch  of 
the  general  geographical  features  of  the  Congo  basin,  and  bade  farewell  to  the  Society, 
as  he  was  on  the  eve  of  departure  upon  his  new  journey  to  Cameroons, — Some  brief 
Boies  were  oommunicated  by  Professor  Ascherson  on  his  travels  in  the  Delta  of  the 
Kile.  He  has  visited  particularly  the  coast  lake  (Arabian,  helwrah),  BruUus  (the 
only  pronunciation  of  the  word  which  he  heard).  The  lake  is  exceptionally  rich  in 
fish,  and  much  spawn  (Amblan,  hutartfh)  was  recently  obtaioed  there.  The  fish  are 
salt-water  fish,  for  the  water  of  the  behCrah  is  stmngly  saline.  The  western  of  the 
two  peninsulas  which  separate  the  lake  from  the  sea  is  named  Aglim-el-Bmllus,  A 
particular  town  called  Brnllua,  marked  on  the  maps,  does  not  exist;  indeed,  the  carto- 
grsfihy  of  the  whole  region  needs  great  alteration.  On  the  map  of  J.  Wyld  nearly 
half  the  names  of  the  places  visited  by  Ascherson  are  wrongly  spelt.  The  district 
■of  BruUus  contains  about  15,000  inhabitants  and  100  towns,  the  principal  of 
which  is  Baltfm^  with  a  population  of  6000.  It  is  the  scat  of  the  Mamilr. 
Besides  this,  there  is  only  the  harbour  town  of  Burg-el-Brullus,  with  a  few 
forts,  situated  on  the  Boghaz.  Fresh  water  cannot  be  obtained;  the  drinking 
water  is  brackish  everywhere.  Agriculture  is  consequently  in  a  very  back- 
ward state.  Besides  fishing,  the  cultivation  of  the  date-palm  and  water-melon 
is  the  chief  means  of  livelihood  for  the  people.  The  wild  vegetation  is  very 
-similar  to  tliat  of  the  environs  of  Alexandria.  On  the  heaps  of  ruins  of  the 
^Id  settlements — in  ancient  times  the  population  of  this  region  was  more  numerous 
and  pro8i>erou3  than  now^a  superior  vegetation  is  found.  The  iuhabitants  hold 
the  tradition  that  in  former  days  the  "beh€rahs"  were  caltivated  lauds,  and  that  in 
consequence  of  the  dams  being  neglected  they  became  lakes.  Even  now  it  is 
possible  that  under  a  permanent  and  weE-regulated  government  they  might  be 
reclaimed  in  a  similar  way  to  the  Harlem  Lake.  From  this  region  Ascherson  pro- 
ceeded to  the  Suez  Canal.  In  Ismailia  the  malarious  fevers  have  become  aa  bad  as 
the  most  notorious  fever  spots  in  Asia*  From  El  Bantarah  the  traveller  followed 
the  great  Syrian  caravan  route  to  EL  Arish,  and  then  returned  to  the  west  along  the 
coast  to  the  now  dried- up  Lake  Sirbiys.    This  tenitoij  east  of  the  canal  ia  a  steppo 


MEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUCATIOMS.  017 

ricli  in  yegetation,  which,  botanically  speaking,  fonns  the  transition  re^^on  to  the 
fertile  cultivated  lands  of  Palestine.  The  further  east  the  traveller  proceeds,  the 
greater  hecomes  the  variety  of  the  species.  The  rainfall  in  winter  is  hy  no  means 
inconsiderahle.  On  the  ^th  April  and  1st  May  Ascherson  experienced  heavy 
showers  of  rain*  In  the  flora  there  are  many  species  corresponding  with  those  of 
the  Sinai  Mountains.  They  are  to  he  foimd  along  the  Wadi  el  Arish,  which  in 
winter  is  very  full  of  water.  The  inhahitants  are  a  curious  mixture  of  Turkish, 
Syrian,  and  Arahian  immigrants.  Fair  hair  and  hlue  eyes  are  not  uncommon. 
The  political  hoimdaries  of  this  region  are  very  inaccurately  shown  on  the  maps. 
The  Egyptian  territory  lies  along  the  coast  in  a  £Edrly  broad  belt  as  far  as  Eafii, 
midway  between  £1  Arish  and  Ghazah.  South  of  this  extends  a  tract  of  Turkish 
country,  the  breadth  of  which  is  uncertain,  as  £Eur  as  the  meridian  of  the  oasis  of 
Qatieh  on  the  Syrian  caravan  recite.  The  insecurity  of  this  region,  since  the 
murder  of  Professor  Palmar,  is  so  great,  that  the  traveller  was  only  able  to  travel  for 
three  hours  up  the  Wadi  el  Arish,  that  is  to  say,  within  the  limits  of  the  authority 
of  the  Egyptian  garrison  in  1^1  Arish. 


NEW  GEOGBAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 
(By  J.  SooTT  Exuns,  Ztbrarian  B.GA.) 

EUBOPE. 

Bergner,  BudoU — ^Bamanien.  Eine  Darstellung  des  Landes  und  der  Leute. 
Breslau,  J.  U.  Kern,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  412.    Price  10s.    (Dulau.) 

Herr  Bergner  writes  from  his  personal  knowledge  of  Boumania;  at  the 

Fame  time  he  has  brought  together  information  from  other  sources,  and  his 

>   volume  will  be  welcome  as  a  fairly  complete  account  of  a  country  about  whidi 

there  is  a  lack  of  accessible  literature.    There  are  numerous  fine  illustrations 

and  a  good  map. 

Bennia,  -  Oeorge. — The  Cities  and  Cemeteries  of  Etruria.  Third  edition.  Two 
vols.  London,  John  Murray,  1883 :  voL  L  pp.  cxxviiu  and  502;  voL  ii.  pp.  xv. 
and  579.    Price  21«. 

This  classical  work  will  be  found  of  the  greatest  valne  by  the  student  of  the 
ancient  geography  of  the  region  to  which  it  refers. 

I^ley,  Athelftan. — Athos,  or  the  Mountaiif  of  the  Monks.  London,  Longman, 
1887 :  8V0.,  pp.  xiv.  and  40SL    Price  2U    [Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 

To  most  readers  Mr.  Biley's  brightly  written  volume  will  be  a  complete 
novelty.  Athos,  the  most  northerly  and  mountainous  of  the  three  long 
tongues  that  jut  out  from  the  Salonica  Peninsula,  is  perhaps  the  most  holy  of 
all  the  holy  lands  of  the  Greek  Chorch.  Mr.  Biley  was  fortunate  enough  to 
be  able  to  spend  several  weeks  in  the  peninsula,  visiting  its  many  numasteries, 
communing  with  the  monks,  studying  antiquities,  architecture,  history,  and  a 
little  geography ;  the  results  he  gives  in  this  novel  and  instructive  volume. 

Piat,  Alfred- — ^Projet  de  cr^tion  an  moyen  de  ressources  d'ex^cntion  k  tirer  de 
TcBuvre  memo  d'un  Port  de  Guerre  et  de  Commerce  en  eau  profonde  &  C^bourg 
(Calvados)  pour  supplier  k  I'insuffisance  irremediable  de  Cherbourg  et  du  Havre. 
Paris,  Alcan-L^vy,  1887 :  4to.,  pp.  33,  map  and  pUn. 

Schrenck,  L.'v.,  and  Kazimowics,  C.  J.— BeitragezurEenntnissdesBussisdien 
Belches  und  der  angrenzenden  Lander  Asieos.    Dritte  Folge.    Anf  Koeteii  der 

2p2 


518 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 


Kaiserlic"ben  Akademi©  <3er  WissenscHaftcn.     H€Taiis;]:egeben  von  L.  v.  Scbrcnct 
uiid  C.  J.  Maximovvicz.     Baud  ii.     St  Petersbiii^,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  350. 

Tbis  volume  contains  two  articles.  The  first  ia  by  E.  Biicbner,  on  tbe  Birds 
of  the  St.  Petersburg  Govemment,  Tbe  secuiid  is  by  Count  D.  A,  Tolstoi,  on 
the  TowD-schoolii  during  tbe  reign  of  the  Empress  Catharioe  II.,  translated 
from  the  Ilu&sian  by  P,  v,  Ktlgid^^en. 

ASLi. 
Berg,  L*  W,  C*  [Van  den]. — Le    Hiidbramout    et    les   Colonies    Arabes   ^wa» 
I'Archipel    Indien.      O^vrage   publj/^e  par  ordre  du   Gonvernement.     La  ITaye, 
Nijhoff :  large  8vo.,  pp.  viiL  and  202,     Price  6*,  Gd.     (Dulati.) 

Tbis  18  a  work  of  much  interest,  and  adds  greatly  to  our  knowl©d<»e  of  the 
geography  of  Son  lb -east  era  Arabia  and  the  character  of  its  inhafoitanla. 
The  author  treats  hia  subject  xmder  thre^j  headss:  (I)  the  Hadhramout  itself^ 
on  tbe  original  reporta  of  native  travellers;  (2)  the  Arab  ailonists  of  the 
Hiidbramout  in  tbe  Indian  Archipelago;  aod  (3)  the  lan^^uage  spoken  by  tbe 
Arabs,  both  in  the  mother  country  aod  in  the  colonies,  from  personal  ex- 
perience and  inveHtigation. 

Now  this  Hsdhrumout^not  impossibly  coonciCted  with  Hazarmaveth^  son 
of  Joktan,  great-^andsou  of  Shem — shown  in  the  mnp  which  Giffiord  Palirave 
attached  some  tweiify-live  3'ears  ap;o  to  his  narrative  of  travel  in  more  northerly 
latitudes— is,  roughly  speaking,  c^jm prised  within  46  and  54  meridians  of 
longitude.  Its  most  sombern  point  is  to  be  found  in  the  coast-line  westward 
of  Aden,  but  of  its  extent  inland  we  Lave  no  definite  infornmtion.  M.  Van  den 
Bcig  retninds  us  how  little  we  know  of  the  interior  of  this  intert'stinjij  but 
unexplored  tract.  That  little  has,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  items  of  in- 
struction afforded  by  the  Arab  geographers  of  the  Middle  Ases,  been  obtaine<l 
from  Niebuhr,  Wellste*!,  Fresnel,  and  de  Wrede,  Tbe  last  wrote  from  the 
experience  of  an  actual  visit,  but  his  book  did  not  a|>pear  until  1873,  or  thirty 
years  after  be  had  seen  the  country  doscrilied,  and  bis  description  has  more  tha 
character  of  a  reminiscence  than  of  a  record  tiiken  on  the  spot. 

£f  ckertt  K,  [von]. — Der  Kaukasns  und  seine  Volker.  Leipzig,  Frohbcrg,  1887 ; 
8vo.,  pf>.  vii.  and  385.     Price  12«. 

The  author  of  tbis  inifxirtant  contribution  to  our  knowledge  of  the  Can  casus 
liad  many  op|K>rtanities  duiing  a  two  years'  residence  in  the  country  on  official 
duty,  of  traversing  it  ia  many  directionH,  aud  visiting  regions  rarely  sought 
after  by  modern  travellers.  The  results  of  his  ob,>5ervaiions  he  has  brought 
togeihir  in  a  series  of  chapters  on  various  asf^cts  ot  the  country*  Herr 
Krckert*fl  notes  refer  very  largely  to  the  people  in  tbe  various  branches,  and  hia 
clasai Bcation  Ib  bftsed  on  a  large  number  of  head-measuremenU  combined  with 
the  languages  ipoken^  He  his  |)lotted  tbe  rf^sults  of  bis  ethnographical  In* 
vesti^fttions  on  a  map  wliicb  embraces  the  whol-j  rdion  between  the  Caspian 
and  the  Black  seas  and  between  th»  Sea  of  A»off  and  tlje  river  Araks.  Ho 
has  also  exhibited  in  a  series  of  tables  a  seleclinn  of  words  from  the  varioos 
langui^es  spoken.  After  his  introductory  8ecti<>ns,  the  author  devotes  a 
chapter  to  the  level  country  lying  on  the  north  of  tlie  Caucasian  range*  In  tbe 
two  following  chapters  be  deals  with  Kalmuks,  Turkumans,  Nogais,  aui 
Cossacks*  The  next  chapter  treats  of  the  country  on  the  le^t  bank  of  the  Enban, 
and  following  chapters  of  the  Karaclus,  tbe  CauciLsiiin  Steinbuk,  the  Cherkess, 
the  Ossetians,  the  Chechen  via.  Some  150  pa^^ea  are  devoted  to  Dajihestan  and 
its  people  (Lesghians),  and  two  shorter  chapters  to  the  people  of  the  Coast  rcgion 
and  the  Trans-Caucasians. 

[IndiaO^-^*^^^^"*  ^f  ^^®  Operations  of  the  Great  Trigonometrical  Survey  of  India* 
Vol.  1 V.  A,  General  Description  of  the  Principal  TriancnLilion  of  tbe  Jodhpore  and 
the  Eastern  Sind  Meridional  Series  of  the  Nortb-Went  Quadrilateral,  with  tbe 
Details  of  their  Beductioo  and  the  Final  Results.  Prepired  in  the  ofBca  of  the 
Trigonometrical  Branch,  Survey  of  India,  Col  C,  T,  Haig,  b,e.,  Offg.  Deputy 


NSW  OEOORAPHICAL  PUBUCAHONS.  519 

Surveyor-General,  in  charge.  Published  under  the  orders  of  Col  G.  C.  De  Pr^, 
8.C.,  Surveyor-General  of  India.  Debra  Dun,  printed  at  the  OflSce  of  the  Trigono- 
metrical Branch,  Survey  of  India,  1886 :  4to.,  charts  and  plates,  [Presented  by 
the  Secretary  of  State  for  India.] 

Tchihatchef,  P.  [de].— Klein- Asien.     Ltipzig,  G.  Freytag,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  viii. 
and  188.    [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

This  is  one  of  the  series  of  handbooks  being  issued  by  Freytag  under  the 
title  of  "  Das  Wissen  der  Gej?enwart."  It  consists  of  a  very  complete  and 
useful  sketch  of  Asia  Minor  by  M.  Tchihatchef,  who  has  for  so  long  been  an 
authority  on  that  region.  The  various  sections  treat  of  geography  and  hydro- 
graphy, topography,  climate,  vegetation,  fauna,  geology,  and  a  miscellaneous 
section  on  history,  antiquities,  and  people. 


AFRICA. 

ICape  of  Good  Hope.]— Statistical  Register  of  the  Colony  of  the  Cape  of  Grood 
Hope  for  the  year  1886,  containing  also  Agricultural  Statistics  for  1887.  Cape 
Town,  W.  A,  Richards  &  Sons,  1887 :  folio,  pp.  viii.  and  224.  [Presented  by  the 
Colonial  Secretary,  Cape  Town,  Cape  of  Good  Hope.] 

Suveyrier,  Henri.— Liste  de  Positions  G^graphiques  en  Afrique  (Continent  et 
lies).  Premier  fascicule  A-G.  Paris,  Soci^t^  de  G^ographie,  1884:  4to., 
pp.  102.    [Presented  by  the  Paris  Greographical  Society.] 

There  are  about  1600  positions  in  this  part,  arranged  alphabetically,  with 
altitudes,  latitudes,  longitudes,  and  authorities.  Its  value  to  cartography  is 
evident,  and  we  hope  our  enterprising  sister  Society  will  lose  no  time  in  giving 
M.  Duveyrier  the  means  of  completing  the  undertaking, 

Mackinnon,  [Bev.]  James* — South  African  Traits.  Edinburgh,  James  Gemmell, 
1887  :  8vo.,  pp.  vi.  aod  301.    Price  7a.  Sd.    [Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 

Mr.  Mackinnon  opens  up  no  new  ground  in  this  volume,  but  it  will  be 
found  both  interesting  and  iustructive.  He  spent  three  years  and  a  half  from 
1881  in  South  Africa,  mainly  in  connection  with  the  College  at  Stellenbosch, 
and  his  volume  deals  largely  with  that  town  and  the  country  round  about  it. 
He  gives  much  information  as  to  the  present  social,  economical,  and 
educational  condition  of  the  part  of  the  Colony  with  which  he  is  personally 
acquainted.  He  made  excursions  elsewhere,  into  the  Drachensberg,  to  the  east  of 
the  Colony,  into  Natal  and  the  Transvaal ;  some  of  his  ezperieoces  in  these 
excursions  he  describes.  He  has  also  from  various  sources  compiled  some 
instructive  chapters  on  certain  episodes  in  the  history  of  the  Colony.  The  volume, 
as  a  whole,  gives  a  fair  and  useful  picture  of  the  present  condition  of  develop- 
ment of  Cape  Colony  generally. 

Moloney,  Alfred  [C.M.O.]'-Sketch  of  the  Forestry  of  West  Africa,  with  par- 
ticular reference  to  its  present  principal  commercial  products.  Londoa, 
Sampson  Low  &  Co.,  1887.    Price  10s.  Qd.    [Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 

Mr.  Moloney's  official  connection  with  the  Government  of  Lagoe  has  given 
him  special  opportunities  of  becoming  familiar  with  the  actual  condition  of  the 
forests  of  our  West  African  possessions,  while  his  botanical  knowledge  has  en- 
abled him  to  made  good  use  of  his  opportunities.  However,  Mr.  Moloney's 
book  covers  more  than  British  West  Afriica,  and  he  has  brought  together  much 
useful  information  as  to  the  actual  condition  of  the  forests  in  the  whole  region. 
His  aim  is  to  show  that  there  are  vast  n-sources  of  useful  industry  in  West 
Africa  which  are  unworked,  and  he  goes  over  the  various  trees  and  useful  plants 
in  great  detail,  gives  information  as  to  the  supplies  which  cxi«t,  commercial 
value,  methods  of  culture,  &c  The  volume  may  be  regarded  as  an  important 
contribution  to  what  is  known  as  Commercial  (Jcograpby. 


620 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  POBLlCATlONa, 


Pajot,    Elie. — Simples  Henacignementii  but  Vile  Botirljon.      Paris,   CEallamel 
Aine,  1887 :  8m,  pp.  344,    Price  Zs,  6t/.     (Dulau.) 

This  little  volame  contains  a  useful  account  q(  the  liiatory  of  Keunion,  with 
many  notes  on  itJi  resources  and  progress.  ' 


AMERICA* 

Baillie,  Alexander  F. — A  Paraguayan  Treasure :  the  Search  and  the  Discovery. 
With  route  map  and  plans,  Loudon,  Simpkin,  Marjshatl,  &  Co.,  1887 :  Bvo., 
pp.  368.     Price  68.     [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

BmiJlglmrsti  GaiUermO  E. — Estudio  sohrc  la  Geografia  de  Tarapaca  (pdginas  de 
nn  Uhro)  trabajo  escrito  pfira  e!  nteneo  de  I^^mque.  Santiago,  Imp.  de  *El 
Progreso;  1886 :  8vo,,  pp.  113,     [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

[Cayo  Arenas.] — Sociedad  Mexicana  de  Geografia  y  Estadistica,  Apuntes  sobre 
Cayo  Arenas  fonnodos  por  6rden  de  la  Sociedad  de  Geografia  y  Estadistica  por  su 
segundo  Secretario  Juan  Orosico  y  Berra  y  publicados  por  acuerdo  de  la  miBma 
corporacion.  M^xico^  Ofic.  Tip*  de  la  Secretaria  de  Fomenfco,  1886 :  12nio.»  pp.  vi, 
and  66^  2  m&ps. 

Cumberland,  Stnart< — The  Queen's  Highway  from  Ocean  to  Ocean.  With  numer- 
ous collotype  illustrations  and  two  maps.  Loudon,  Sampson  Low  Sc  Co.^ 
1887  :  8vo.,  pp.  431,    Price  18**     [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

Etescribes  the  country  traversed  by  the  Canadian  Pacific  Tt  ail  way,  from  tho 
Atlantic  to  tho  Pacific  Oceans,  The  opening  chapters  refer  to  the  "  Province 
of  the  Midnight  Snn,"  British  Columbia,  including  it«  mainland,  ialanda,  cities, 
climate,  and  general  resources.  In  chapter  iii.  Esquimault  as  a  naval  centre, 
and  its  bearing  upon  Rus^jia's  position  m  the  Pacilic  is  discussed;  the  remain- 
ing chapters  describe  the  various  points  of  interest  along  the  route  of  the 
"Queens  Highway,**  from  the  Pacific  to  the  Rockies,  and  across  the  ojxin 
prairie  to  Wiunipg  (the  half-way  houst'),  thenco  round  the  north  shore  of  Lake 
Superior,  and  by  Ottawa,  Montreal,  and  Quebec  to  the  Atlantic  terminus  at 
Halifax.  Many  of  the  iliujitratious  are  frotu  photographB  exhibited  in  the 
Canadian  Court  at  the  Indian  and  Colonial  Eihibition. 

HartiHi  K. — Bericht  iibcr  eine  Reise  nach  Nietierlaudiach  West-Indieu  und  darauf 
gegrundete  Studien.  L  Land  und  Leute.  Leiden,  Brillj  1887:  large  8vo.,  pp. 
ISe.     Price  ITs,    (Dulatt,) 

This  is  the  firBt  part  of  what  pramises  to  be  a  complete  and  most  detailtfd 
study  of  the  Dutch  West  Indies,  The  work  is  brought  out  under  the  auspices 
of  the  Butch  Geographical  Society.  The  present  part  deals  with  land  and 
people,  the  former  being  investigated  in  all  its  aspects,  geographical^  geological, 
biologicaL  The  work  abounds  with  well-executed  illustmttons,  lithographio 
and  photographiCi  and  in  future  parts  we  are  promised  four  maps, 

Eumbold,  Sir  Horace  [Bart J^Thc  Great  Silver  River :  Notes  of  a  Residence  m 
Buenos  Ayres  in  1880  and  1881.  Loudon,  Murray,  1S87 :  8vo.,  pp.  [14]  and  330, 
Price  125. 

It  was  not  to  be  expected  that  Siri  Horace  Rumbold  should  be  able  to  tell 
us  much  that  is  positively  new  about  the  Plate  region.  The  record  of  his 
experiences  of  life  in  Buenos  Ayres  and  its  neighbourhood  will,  however,  be 
found  useful  by  those  who  may  have  to  reside  there.  He  has  much  to  tell 
about  the  politics  of  the  Argentine ;  and  his  remarks  on  the  country  as  a  field 
of  immigration  deserve  serious  attention*  Sir  Horace  made  a  trip  up  the 
Uruguay  and  touched  the  country  of  that  name  as  well  as  Paraguay  and  BraxiL 
What  he  has  to  say  concerning  the  life  and  scenLTy  of  the  Brazilian  borderland 
will  be  uew  to  many.      There  are  several  good  iLlustratioo^  but  no  map. 


KEW  GEOGRAPHICAi  PUBUCATIONS. 


ttt 


Sievers,  [Br J  W.— Keise  in  der  Sierra  Nevjula  de  Santa  Marta.  Leipzig, 
(iressner  &  Scliramm,  1887:  Bvo.,  pp.  [10]  and  290.  [Presented  by  the 
Author,] 

Dr.  Sievera  was  a  pnpil  of  Baron  von  KiclithofeTJ,  nnd  by  a  lengthened  visit 
to  South  America,  at  the  cost  of  the  Karl-Rittcr  Stiftung,  and  under  the 
auapicea  of  tbe  Berlin  Geographical  Society,  he  sought  to  gain  some  practical 
experience  as  a  geographer.  The  results  of  his  travels  *m  Venezuela  have  aj)- 
peared  in  the  Journal  of  the  Hamburg  Geograffhical  Society,  The  present 
volume,  which  unfortunately  has  no  map,  is  devoted  to  tbe  very  interesting 
Sierra  Nevada  range,  and  the  region  around,  on  the  nortli  coast  of  Colombia, 
where  Dr.  Sievera  spent  some  time  in  the  beginning  of  188(>.  He  gives  a 
narrative  of  his  journeyings,  full  of  iaformaiion  on  country  and  people,  eBpeciftlly 
the  native  Indian,  Apart  from  the  value  of  the  work  as  a  contribution  to 
geography,  it  is  an  excellent  sample  of  what  can  he  produced  by  a  young  man 
who  has  hail  a  thorough  training  iu  geographical  science  and  methuds  of 
geographical  observation. 

Smithsonian  Miscellaneous  Coliectioaa, — Vols,  xjtviii.-xxjt.  Washington,  published 
by  the  Smithsonian  institution,  1887:  8vo.,  pp.  (xiviii.)  xxv.  abd  747 ;  (xxix,)  x, 
and  773  j  (xxx.)  x.  and  523,  vL  and  559.  [Presented  by  the  Smithsonian 
Institution.] 

Vol.  xxviiL  contains — "Tublea,  Meteorological  and  Physical,*^  by  Arnold 
Guyot,  F.D.,  LL.n,  Fourth  edition,  revised  and  enlarged.  Edited  by  William 
Libbey,  jun. — Vol  xxii,  **  A  Catalogue  of  Scientific  and  Technical  Periodical 
(1666  to  1882),  together  with  Chronological  Tables  and  a  Library  Check-List** 
By  Henry  Carrington  Bolton,— Vol*  xxx,  **  Scientific  Writings  of  Joseph 
Henry,"  with  illnatrations, 

lUmted  States.]— Annual  Keport  of  the  Chief  Signal  OfBcer  of  the  Army  to  the 
Secretary  of  War  for  the  year  1885.  In  two  volumes.  Washington,  Government 
Printing  Office,  1885 :  8vo.,  pp,  (part  1)  609,  (part  2)  440,  maps. 

Part  2  of  this  Report  oontaics  a  treatise  by  Prof.  William  Ferrel  on  *  Recent 
advances  in  Meteorology,  systematically  arranged  in  the  form  of  a  Text-book, 
designed  for  use  in  the  Signal  Service  School  of  Instruction  at  Port  Myer,  Va., 
and  also  for  a  Hand-book  in  the  office  of  the  Chief  Signal-Officer.*  It  is  divided 
ais  follows  ; — Chapter  L  The'constitution  and  physical  properties  of  the  atmo- 
sphere, IL  Temperature  of  the  atmosphere  and  earth's  surface.  HI.  Tho 
Reneral  motions  and  pressure  of  the  atmosphere.  IV.  Cyclones,  V.  Tornad<jes. 
VL  Meteorological  Observations  and  their  Reductions.  YII.  Ocean  Currents 
and  their  Meteorological  EtTects.  The  Appendix  contains  Hypsometric  and 
other  tables,  and  a  list  of  Books  and  Papers  relcjred  to  in  the  work. 

*    Deportment  of  the  Interior,  United  States  Geological  Survey,  J.  W.  Powell, 

Director.  Monographs  of  tho  United  States  Geological  Survey,  Vol.  x.  Bino* 
cerata^  a  Monograph  of  an  Extinct  Order  of  Gigantic  Mammals,  by  Othniel 
Charles  Marsh.  Washington,  Government  Printing  Office,  188G  ;  Ito.,  pp.  xviii, 
and  243,  plates.    [Presented   by  the  Director  uf  the  Unite<l  •! 

Survey.] 


.    Fourth  Annual  Report  of  the  Biireati    of  El 

of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  1882-83.  By 
Wflshington,  Government  PrintiDg  Office,  1886 :  im 
[Presented  by  the  Smithsouian  Institution,] 

Besides  the  report  on  the  general  work  of  th^ 
a  preliminary  paper  of  great  interest,  anipl^^ 
the  North  American  Indians,  by  Colonel   ( 
Hohnes  contributes  three  important  memoi 


523 


KIW  GEOORAPUICAL  PtJELICATlOKS, 


Puebloftp  oa  tlie  Ancient  Pottery  of  the  Miasissippi  Valley,  and  on  tlie  Oripjin 
and  Development  of  Form  and  Ornament  in  the  Ceratnic  Art,  The  volume 
ooncludea  with  a  paper,  hy  Mr.  Frank  Hamilton  CuahiDg,  on  Tneblo  Fottery,  as 
illuBtrative  of  Ziuiii  Culture-growth* 

Report  on  the  Mining  Inilniitnea  of  the  United  States  (exclumre  of  the 


precious  metals)  with  special  investigation  into  the  Iron  Resources  of  the 
Iicpuhlic,  and  into  the  Crelaceoua  Coals  of  tho  North-west.  By  Raphael 
Pumpelly,  Special  Agent.  Washington,  GoTemment  Printing  Office,  1886;  4to., 
pp.  latxviii.  and  1025,     [Presented  by  the  United  States  Government,] 

Ihia  fortnu  volnme  xv,  of  iho  raluable  series  of  the  United  States  Cenaas 
publications.  Apart  from  its  importance  as  containing  a  detailed  account  of 
the  mineral  resources  and  mining;  industries  of  the  United  States,  it  wiO  be 
found  of  special  value  by  the  student  of  economic  geography,  especially  as  the 
statistics  are  graphically  illustrated  by  102  excelieivt  maps  and  diagrams. 

AROTIO. 

[Intematioiial  Polax  ObaervationB,] — Die  Internationale  Polarforschnng  1S82- 
83.  Die  lleobacbtunga-Ergehnisse  der  Deutschen  Stationen,  Band  L  Kin^ua- 
Fjord,  und  die  MeteoiologiMchen  Statjonen  JL  Ordnung  in  Labrador.  4 to., 
pp,  30  and  liv.  and  736,  Band  IL  Siid-Georgien.  pp.  12  and  Ivi,  and  523. 
Herausgej^tben  im  Auflrage  der  Deutschen  Polar-Kommission  von  Prof.  Dr,  Neu- 
majer  und  Pruf.  Dr.  Bergen.  Berlin,  A&cher  &  Co.,  1886,  Price  5^.  [Presented 
by  the  German  Polar  Commission,] 

Bcobachtungun  der  Hussischen  Polarstation  an  der  Lenamiindung.  11,  ThciL 
Meleorologische  Beo  bach  tun  gen,  bearbeitet  von  A.  Eigaer,  I.  Lieferung, 
Bcobachlnngen  vom  Jahre  1882-S3,  Herausgegeben  uuter  Redaction  von 
K:  Lens.  1886.  4 to.,  pp,  xivil.  and  167- — Beobachtungea  der  Rusaischeu 
Polarstation  auf  Nownja  Semlja.  11,  Theil.  Meteorologlsche  Beobachtungen, 
Bfarbeitet  von  K.'  Andrejell.  Herausgegeben  unter  Redaction  ^on  R.  I.*nz. 
IBB^*  4 to.,  pp.  xviL  and  159,  [Publiihed  and  presented  by  the  Bussiaa 
C^eog^aphical  Society.] 

We  have  here  two  more  imi)ortant  instalments  of  the  valuable  scriea  of 
observations  taken  round  the  two  Poles  during  ISS.-^'K  Of  course,  like  the 
observations  already  published  in  this  series,  these  obserrations  are  in  the  main 
meteorological :  as  such  they  are  an  important  contribution  to  physical  geography. 
But  in  both  jmbliciUiona  there  is  much  information  on  the  general  j:eograpliy  of 
the  regions  in  which  the  station  a  were  located.  Kingua  Fjord  in  at  tho  heail 
of  Cumberland  Gulf  in  Davis  Stmits,  and  the  report  contains  a  ijkctcli  of  ihe 
region  with  accorafuinying  maps,  besides  a  few  notes  on  the  Lnbrailor  stations. 
The  geographical  inrormation  on  South  Georgia  ia  much  fiillt^r,  iiicludmg 
sketches  of  ils  topography,  geolrgy,  and  botany,  besides  detailed  map«  from 
*^urvtysof  the  region  around  Uoyal  Bay,  The  re|>orts  of  observations  on  Xoviiya 
Zenilya  and  at  the  month  of  the  Lena  are  in  Russian  and  German.  The  ma^M 
included  in  the  rcpurts  add  something  to  our  knowledge  of  the  geography  of 
both  regions. 

AUSTRALASIA. 
Hobarttown  oder  Somracrfrische  in  den  Antipoden.     Prag,  H,  Mercy,  1886 ;  4 to,, 
pp.  284,     [Prtsenttd  by  the  Author,  1 1. 1.  II,  Prince  Ludwig  Silvator  of  Austria,] 
This  is  a  handsomely  illustrated  work,  giving  an  account  of  Tasmania  in 
its  various  sKpccts,  including  the  Climate,  Geology  and  Min*^mla^  Fauna  and 
Flora,  Population,  Industry  and  Trade,  &c.     There  is  a  map  of  the  Environs  of 
Hobarttown, 

Pratt,  [B«V.]  George*^- A  Comparison  of  the  Dialicts  of  East  and  Wcbt  Polynesian, 
Mid  ay,  Malagasy,  and  Australian,    [Bead  before  the  Royal  Society  of  N,S.W, 


MEW  GEOORAPHICAL  PUBUCATIOMS.  ^28 

2nd  June,  1886.]    [Sydney,  Charle*  Potter,  Goremment  Printer,  1887]:  8vo., 
pp.  24.    [Presented  by  Rev.  G.  Brown.] 

□few  ZealandJ— New  Zealand  Industrial  Exhibition,  1885,  Wellington.  The 
OfiScial  BeconL  Wellington,  G^rge  Didsbury,  Goremmont  Printer,  1886:  8vo., 
pp.  xii.,  230,  and  123,  pUuu 

A  foil  account  of  the  New  Zealand  Industrial  Exhibition,  1885.  Appended 
are  the  three  Exhibition  prize  essays  on  the  Industries  of  the  Colony. 

OCEANIA. 

Penny,  [Bev J  AlGred.— Ten  Tears  in  Melanesia.     London,  Wells  Gardner  and 

Co.  [no  date] :  8vo.,  pp.  [6]  and  232.    Price  5s.    [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

Mr.  Penny  spent  the  last  ten  years  in  Melanesia  as  a  missionary  in  connec- 
tion ¥rith  the  Melanesia  Mission.  Most  of  his  time  seems  to  have  been  spent 
in  Florida  Island  and  the  Solomon  group,  and  concerning  that  island  and  its 
neighbours  and  their  inhabitants  he  gives  us  the  very  valuable  results  of  his 
own  observations.  He  spent  some  time  also  in  Norfolk  Island,  and  in  cruising 
about  among  various  groups,  so  that  his  observations  cover  a  wide  area.  Mr. 
Penny  sums  up  the  results  of  his  experiences  in  a  scries  of  interesting  chapters, 
full  of  information,  much  of  which  will  be  appreciated  by  the  geographer. 
After  a  general  sketch  of  Melanesia  and  of  Norfolk  Island  and  its  history,  Mr. 
Penny  deals  vdth  heathen  superstitions,  native  customs,  the  progress  of 
Cbristanity,  traders,  and  island  phenomena.  In  the  last  chapter  his  observations 
on  the  physical  geography  of  the  islands  with  which  he  is  acquainted,  well 
deserve  careful  reading.    Neither  pictures  nor  map  are  equal  to  the  text. 

GENEBAL. 
Den  Norske  NordhaYs- Expedition,  1676-1878.— {The  Norwegian  North- 
Atlantic  Expedition,  1876-8.]  XVII.  Zoologi,  Alcyonida.  Yed  D.  0.  Danielssen. 
Christianla,  Gr^ndahl  &  S^ns,  1887:  imp.  4 to.,  pp.  viii.  and  169,  map  and 
plates.  [Presented  by  the  Editorial  Committee  of  the  Norwegian  North-Atlantic 
Expedition.] 

.    XVIIIa.  and  XVIIIb.    Nordhavets  Dybder,  Temperatur  og  Str^mninger 

ved  H.  Mohn.    With  48  plates  and  maps,  and  3  woodcuts.    Christianla,  Gr^ndahl 
&  S<^n,  1887 :  imp.  4to.,  pp.  212. 

This  part  contains  minute  details  respecting  the  Depths,  Temperature,  and 
Circulation  of  the  North  Ocean.    Part  XVIIIb.  contains  the  maps  and  plates. 

Emigration  and  Immigration. — Reports  of  the  Consular  Officers  of  the  United 
States.  Washington,  Government  Printing  Office,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  ir.  and  748. 
[Presented  by  Worthington  C  Ford,  Esq.,  Department  of  State,  Bureau  of 
Statistics.] 

Contains  valuable  statistics  of  emigration,  concerning  Austria-Hungary, 
Belgium,  France,  G^many,  Greece,  Italy,  Malta,  Netherlands,{Norway,  Portugid, 
Russia,  Spain,  Sweden,  Switzerland,  and  the  United  Kingdom. 

Gibson,  John.— Great  Waterfalls,  Cataracts,  and  Geysers,  described  and  illus- 
trated. With  32  illustrations.  London,  T.  Nelson  &  Sons,  1887:  poat  Svo., 
pp.  288.    Price  29.  6d.    [Presented  by  the  PublUhers.] 

This  little  work  inclndes  descriptions  of  some  of  the  principal  and  grandest 
of  waterfalls,  &c.,  among  which  may  be  mentioned  the  Falls  of  Niagara  ;  Fails 
,  of  Yosemite  Valley ;  Falls  of  the  Yellowstone  Region ;  Kaieteur  Fall;  Cataracts 
of  the  Orinoco  and  Parana;  the  Falls  of  the  Zambesi ;  the  Falls  and  Cataracts 
of  the  Nile  ;  the  Falls  of  the  Seneratl ;  the  Cataracts  and  Rapids  of  the  Congo ; 
the  Geysers  of  the  Yellowstone  K^on ;  the  Geysers  of  Iceland ;  and  the 
Geysers  of  New  Zealand. 


BU 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUOATIOKS. 


[lEternational  Geodetic  Association.] — VerhandluDgen  derTom  27.  October  bi« 
sfium  1»  November  1B8G  in  Berlin  al>t;ehalteneti  Achten  AilgcmeiBen  Conferetizder 
Internationalen  Erdmessung  und  daren  PtTmantntett  CommisBioE,  redigirt  vom 
Btandigen  Secretar  A.  Hirsch*  Zugleich  mit  den  Bericlateii  der  ¥ertreter  der 
eiuzelDeu  Staaten  iiber  die  Fortschrilte  der  Erdmessung  in  ihren  LiiEdera*  von 
1884-6,  hemusgegeben  von  der  Perma^acnlen  Commission  der  Internationalen 
Erdmessung.— Comptefi-RenduB  des  stknces  do  la  HuiLieme  Conforenoe  G^crale 
de  ['Association  G^odcfiiqiie  Internationaleetde  sa  Commiesion  Permanent*  r^unies 
k  Birlin  du  27  Octobre  au  1'""  Novembro  1886,  redigea  par  le  Secretaire  perpctuel 
A.  Hirsoh.  Publiea  en  meme  temps  que  ka  liapports  des  D6\6gxiis  dea  diflerents 
£tAts  sur  ka  pr<>gT^  des  travaux  geodesiquea  accompliB  dans  lenra  pays  de  1884: 
^  1B86,  par  la  Commission  Ptrmaneote  de  rAssociallon  G^oddsique  Internationale. 
Berlin,  Gcorg  Heimer,  1887 ;  4ta,  pp.  xviit.  and  248,  maps.  [Presented  by  tbe 
AsaociaiioD.] 

Jouroal  of  the  College  of  Science,  Imperial  University,  Japan.  Vol.  I.,  Part  IT. 
Publisbed  by  the  University,  TukyG,  Japan,  1837 :  large  8vo.  [Presented  by  tbo 
Imperial  University,  TCikyO,  Japan.] 

Contains  the  following  paper  ;  "  Beltrage  znr  Theorie  der  Bewegnng  der 
Erdatmosphare  imd  der  Wirbelstiirme,''  by  Dr.  Phi.  Diro  Kitao^  illustrated 
with  a  plate. 

KeaEe,  CProf  J  A-  H, — Eastern  Geography.  A  Geograpliy  of  tbe  Malay  Peninsula, 
lodo-China,  tbe  Eastern  Arcbipelago,  the  Pbilippines,  and  New  Guinea,  With  a 
map.     London,  Stan  ford  ^  1887  :  8vo,,  pp.  xii,  and  190.     Price  5s. 

The  present  volume  is  to  some  extent  compiled  on  the  basis  of  a  smaller 
treatise  which  appeared  at  Singapore  in  1884.  It  is  issued,  we  uoderstand, 
under  tbe  auspices  of  the  Government  of  the  Stmits  Settlements,  and  is  meant 
primarily  for  use  in  the  schools  of  that  colony.  Tho  book  will,  however,  be 
found  usefni  by  all  desirous  of  having  a  pretty  full  and  trustworthy  account  of 
tbe  rep  on  with  which  it  deals.  In  the  treatment  i  especially  of  the  physical 
and  biological  sections,  Mr.  Keaoe  has  made  an  attempt,  pretty  auccessfully, 
"  to  break  away  from  tbe  crude  methods  still  lingering  in  our  schools,  and  to  bring 
tho  matt<;r  more  into  harmony  with  the  views  of  the  Hitters,  Peschels,  Kecliis,  and 
the  other  illustrious  exponents  of  tbe  scientific  method,"  Mr,  Keane  ba^f  taken 
at! vantage  of  the  researches  of  the  most  recent  explorers,  and  his  treatment  of 
tho  whole  subject  is  systematic,  clear,  and  tivirly  full.  He  baa  divided  the 
Eastern  ArcbiiMjlago  into  three^  inatead  of  two  divisions, -^Asiatic,  Oceanic,  and 
Australian,  a  division  for  which  bo  advances  satisfactory  linguistic  reasons. 
His  double  pagination  of  the  contents,  we  should  say,  is  no  substitute  for  an 
index.     The  map  is  too  small  to  be  of  much  practical  service. 

[Malet,  H*  P.]^ — Sunlight  Second  edition,  with  alterations  and  additions. 
London,  Triibner  &  Co.,  1687:  12mo.,  pp.  xii,  and  180.  [Present^  by  tho 
Author.] 
Markham,  Clements  B- — Famous  Sailors  of  Former  Times :  Tbe  Story  of  tho 
Sea  Fathers.  With  frontispiece.  Second  edition.  London,  &a,  Cassell  &  Co., 
ISaC :  cr.  Bvo.,  pp.  viii,  and  22L  Price  2$,  6tt 
HaitinB,  CSl&rles.— Du  Spitzberg  aa  Sahara ;  Stapes  d'un  Naturaliate  au  Spits- 
berg,  en  Laponie,  en  ^cosse,  en  Suisse,  en  France,  en  Italie,  en  Orient,  en  iSgypte. 
et  en  Algerie,  Paris,  Bailliere  et  Fils  [1886] :  8vo.,  pp.  xvi.  and  G19, 
Price  7f.  M, 

This  is  a  new  edition  of  a  collection  of  papers  by  M.  Martins,  which  appeared 
several  years  ago,  after  having  been  first  published  through  various  media. 
M.  Martins  discusses  various  questions  in  physical  and  botanical  geography, 
I>artly  from  his  own  observations,  and  partly  on  the  basis  of  the  writings  of 
others. 


NEW  OEOGBAPHICAL  PUBUCATIONS.  625 

Beport  of  the  Royal  Commission  for  the  Ck>lonial  and  Indian  Exhibition,  London, 
1886,  to  the  R^ht  Hon.  Henry  Matthews,  M.P.,  &c  London,  W.  Clowes  &  Sons, 
1887 :  8to.  pp.  IzziiL  and  373,  plan. 
Bogers,  William  A.,  and  Winlock,  Anna.— A  Catalogue  of  180  Polar  Stars 
for  the  epoch  of  1875.0,*  resulting  from  all  the  available  observations  made 
between  1860  and  1885,  and  reduced  to  the  system  of  the  Catalogue  of  Publication 
XIV.  of  the  AstronomiAche  Gesellschaft  [Memoirs  of  the  American  Academy  of 
Arts  and  Sciences.  Centennial  volume,  vol.  xi.,  part  iv. — ^No.  v.]  Cambridge, 
John  Wilson  &  Son,  1886 :  4to. 
Semeonof,  P.— Geographichesko-Statisticheskii  Slovar  Bocsiiskoi  Imperii.  (Geo- 
graphico-Statistical  Lexicon  of  the  Russian  Empire.)  Vols.  ii.-v.  St.  Petenbnrg, 
1863-85.   [Presented  by  the  Russian  Geographical  Society.] 

This  work,  issued  under  the  auspices  of  the  Imperial  Russian  Geographical 
Society,  is  completed  with  the  fifth  volume,  the  first  of  the  series  having  been 
published  as  far  back  as  1863.  Its  scope  and  object  has  been  to  collect  and 
condense  in  a  form  readily  accessible  to  students  and  the  general  reader  the 
vast  mass  of  materials  contained  in  books,  pamphlets,  magazines,  monographs, 
&C.,  relating  to  all  parts  of  the  Russian  empire.  It  is  in  foci  a  valuable  topo- 
graphical summary  of  every  town,  village,  range  of  mountains,  river,  lake,  sea, 
province,  district,  and  tribe  contained  in  that  vast  extent  of  the  earth's  surface. 
A  list  of  authorities  follows  each  article. — [£.  D.  IL] 
Stephen,  leaUe.— Dictionary  of  National  Biography.    VoL  xL    Clatcr— CondelL 

London,  Smith,  Elder,  &  Co.,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  vL  and  470.    Price  12s.  ed. 
Stevenfl,  Thomas.— Around  the  World  on  a  Bicycle.    From  San  Francisco  to 
Teheran.    With  over  100  illustrations.    London,  Sampson  Low  &  Co.,  1887: 
8vo.,  pp.  xvii.  and  647.    Price  16s.    [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

The  journey,  of  which  this  volume  is  a  record,  was  made  in  1884-85. 
Mr.  Stevens  left  San  Francisco  on  the  22nd  of  April,  1884,  and  reached  Boston 
on  the  4th  of  August,  the  journey  across  the  Continent  having  occupied 
103}  days.  In  the  following  April  the  author  resumed  his  journey,  embarking 
at  New  York  for  Liverpool  On  arriving  at  Newhaven,  he  crossed  to  Dieppe 
and  travelled  through  France,  Germany,  Austria,  and  Hungary ;  Slavonia  and 
Servia;  Bulgaria,  £)umelia  and  Europeaa  Turkey.  From  the  Ottoman  capital 
he  took  steamer  to  Ismid  and  from  thence  traversed  Asia  Minor  br  Angora, 
Yuzgat,  Sivas,  Erzingan,  and  Erzeroum.  He  next  crossed  the  northecn  part 
of  Kurdistan  and  entered  Persia,  vtsiting  Tabreez,  and  Kasveen,  arriving  at 
Teheran  on  the  30th  of  September.  The  volume  has  neither  an  index  nor 
a  map. 

The  Encyclopasdia  Britannica.  Ninth  edition.  VoL  xxiL  Edinburgh,  A.  and  C. 
Black,  1887 :  4to.,  pp.  856.    Price  30s.    [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

There  is  an  unusually  large  proportbn  of  important  geographical  articles  in 
this  volume.  Among  them,  may  be  mentioned  Siberia  and  Syr-Dana,  by 
M.  Krapotkine;  Sicily,  Spain,  and  Syracuse,  by  Mr.  G.  G.  Chisbohn;  Sind 
and  Sistan,  by  Sir  Frederic  Croldsmid ;  Sokoto,  by  Mr.  Jose^  Thomson ; 
Solomon  Islands,  by  Baron  von  Hiigel ;  Soudan,  by  Professor  &eane :  Sooth 
Australia,  by  Mr.  James  Bonwick ;  Sumatra,  by  Mr.  H.  A.  Webster;  Sweden, 
by  Profs.  Hildebrandsson,  Clere,  and  Kjellman,  Dr.  A.  Wir^  and  F.  J. 
NystrCm ;  Switzerland,  by  Rev.  W.  A.  B.  Coolidge  and  Mr.  Webster ;  Syria,  by 
Prof.  Socin.  The  article  on  Stiabo  is  by  Prof.  William  Bidgeway,  and  on 
Surveying  by  General  J.  T.  Walker.  The  volume  contains  eleven  plates,  all 
maps. 

The  Journal  of  the  Bombay  Branch  of  the  Boyal  Asiatic  Society.  Extra  Number. 
Prof.  Peterson's  Beport  on  the  Search  for  Sanscrit  MSS.  in  the  Bombay  Circle, 
1884-86.  Bombay,  Society's  library;  London,  Trfibner  Sc  Co.,  1887:  Svo., 
pp.  XXX.,  47,  and  407. 


BU 


KEW  MAPS, 


The  following  works  have  also  been  added  to  the  Library  :— 

Asta*Buraag&r  Praaciaco  Solaao*— Dlcclonario  Jeogrdfico  d©  la  Reptiblica  de 
Chile.  Nueva  York,  D.  Appletoa  &  Co.,  1867  :  am.  Siro,,  pp,  viii*  and  42 1> 
jxirtrait.     [Prix^euted  by  the  Author.] 

Blosseville,  [Benigiie]  Ernefit  [Poret,  Marqais]  de,— Histoire  dei  Coloniea 
Fenalea  de  rAngletcrre  ifxn»  TAastralie.  Paris,  Adrien  lo  Clero  and  Go»,  &c., 
1831  ;  8vo,,  pp.  59G.     [Presented  by  M,  James  JackaonJ 

[CorawallJ— An  Uosentimentai  Journey  through  Cornwall,  By  the  Author  of 
Muho  Halifax,  Gentleman.*  With  iUufltratious  by  C,  Napier  ileiny,  Lotidou, 
Macmillan  &  Co,,  1881 ;  4to»,  pp,  x,  and  144.  Prko  I2s,  e<i,  [Presented  by  the 
Publishers.] 

DrBSt,  A — -La  Exposicion  Xacional  d©  Venezuela  en  1883,  obra  escrita  de  orden 
del  (lustre  Americano  Geneml  Guzman  Blanco,  Caracas,  Imp.  de  *La  Opinion 
Nacional/  1884 :  folio,  pp.  704,  plan  and  plates.     [Preaentevl  by  Dr.  A.  Ernst.] 

level,  Andrei  A*— Nomenclator  de  Venezuela  contentivo  de  su  cenao  en  orden 
Alfabetico,  2  vuls,  Caracas,  Imp*  *  La  Opinion  Nacioiml,*  1883:  4 to.,  pp. 
(yol  10  ^^0^  (voL  ij.)  435.    [Presented  by  Dr.  A.  Ernst.] 

Passarge,  LoiliB. — Aus  Baltischen  Louden,  Stiidien  und  Bilder.  Glogait,  Carl 
Flemniing,  187B ;  12mo.,  pp.  Tiiu  and  551, 

TiHaviceEcio,  [Dr.]  E. — La  RepiiUica  de  Venezuela  bajo  el  pnnto  de  vista  de  la 
Geograda  y  1  oixigrafia  medicaa  y  de  la  Demografia,  Caracas,  Alfred  Rothe,  1880 : 
Bvo,,  pp.  137.     [Presented  by  the  Author.] 


NEW  MAPS. 


(By  J,  Coles,  Map  Ckraior  B,a.3.) 
EUROPE. 

Alpeagebiete  Oeaterreichs-— DlatanK-  und  Beisekarte  der  oestlichen  (Salzburg, 
Erzheiz,  Oeslerreicb.  t^tdcrmaik,  K  am  ten,  &c.)  mit  Schutzhiitten-Beikarte  und 
Uohen label le,  bearbcitet  von  Jul.  Meurer.  Scale  1 :  3G0,00O  or 4*8  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.     Wien,  Artaria  &  Go.    Price  Ba.    (Dulau,) 

Amiens. — ^Nouveau  plan  de  la  vrUe  d* ,  avec  ses  faubourgs  et  sections  ruralei 

|)ar_R.  Viinot.     Paris.     Price  Gs,    (Didau,) 

Pranee- — Carte  des  rividres  navigables  et  des  canairx  ex^ut^,  en  construction  et 
proj<ct^s.  Scale  1:390,000  or  5 '2  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Paris, 
Andriveau-Goiijon.     {Dvlau,) 

OeBterreichiBeh-ungariBClien  Monarchie.— -Verkehrs-  uod  Eiacnbahii'Atlaa  der 

,   von   W.    Kietmann,      Scale    1  1 700,000    or   9*5   geographical    miles    to 

an  inch.    Leipzig,  Pfau,    Liefening  2,  3  maps.     Price  1«.     {Dulau,} 

TiroL—  Bistanz-  und  Reisekart©  von  ,  bearbeitet  Ton  Jul.   Meurer.      Scale 

1 :  360,000  or  4"B  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    Wien,  Artiiria  Sc  Co,    Price  5s^ 


XEW  MAPa  627 

ORDNANCB  BUBYEY  MAPS. 

PubllefttloBfl  iisaed  during  the  mooth  of  Jooe  1887. 
l*inoh— General  Maps  :— 

£Houurx>  AKD  Walbs  :  New  Series.    Nos.  253  (oatllne),  286  (bUls  ibadsd),  U.  each. 

6-incli— County  Maps:— 

EsoLAin)  AVD  Walks;  Bedfordshire:  26  N.W.,  28  N.W.;  if.  High.  Breoknooiuiiire : 
32S.W.;  It.  Oambridffeslilre :  lO  S.W.,  so  S.W^  38  N.W.,  8.W.;  u.  eaoh.  Oardl«tn- 
■hire:  3  8.W..  6  N.M.  7  S.W.,  lo  N.E.;  it.  each.  Oarmarthenihire :  40  M.IC:  ii. 
Cornwall:  34  N.W.;  ii.  Derbyshire:  47  S.B..  48  M.W.;  it.  eich.  Deronshire: 
12  N.W.,  s.i£^  65  8.K.,  77  N.K..  115  8.W.,  121  &£. ;  It.  esch.  Dorsetshire:  ii  N.K..  aK^ 
16  N.E,  8.E.,  17  8.W.,  18  N.W..  24  N.E.:  It.  each,  aiouoestershire :  69  8.E..  72  8.B.; 
It.  each.  Herefordshire :  39  &£..  40  N.W.,  45  N. w.  it.  each.  Huntingdonshire :  3  8. W., 
26N  W..S.W.;  It. each  Leicestershire:  si  8.W.;  it.  Lincolnshire:  21  8.E..  46  &E., 
145  N.K.,  146 aE.,  149  N.W.,  151  N.E.,  154  8.W.;  It.  each.  Merionethshire:  14  N.W.,  N.K., 
2'i  N.R,  23  S.E. ;  It.  each.  Monmouthshire :  The  followhiK  addlUotial  theeu  of  th(4  oounij 
have  been  Issued  containing  parte  of  the  River  Severn :— 39. 41,  and  42  on  one  shset,  40 ;  2t.  6(1.  eaeh . 
Montffomeryshixe:  laK.;  it.  Norfolk:  26  aW.,  64  aW..  74  H.W.,  76  N.E..  aw.. 
87  N.\VT;  It.  ea. h  Somersetshire :  48N.E..  49  aW.,  50  S.W., 61  N.E..  aE,  71  aE..  91  N. W.  i 
It.  each.  Staffordshire :  20  N.W.,  26  aK..  3h  N.E.;  it.  each.  8ufl61k:  12  N.E.,  67  aW., 
«7  N.K. ;  It.  facb.  Warwickshire :  5  S.E.,  14  N.E. ;  u.  each.  Wiltshire :  24,  37 ;  3t.  $d. 
each.   Worcestershire:  6NJ£.;  it. 

26-inch— Pariah  Maps  :^ 

Ekglakd  akd  Walks:  Brecknockshire:  XLVI.  5,  St.  Oamhridf^shire :  XL.  1,  it.; 
Xr^  2. 5.  LVIII.  8,  3t.  eATh;  LVJli.  14, 4t. ;  LIX.  15.  LX.  12,  LXI.  13, 8f.  each.  Oardi(ranshire : 
XII.  i.3t.;  Carmarthenshire:  XXVL  1,  2.  3.4.  XXXIT.  2.  3^  12,  16.  3t.  each;  Devon- 
shire: XIX.  9,  St.;  XXIX.  8.  5t.;  XXX.  9,  10.  13.  XI J.  6  6,  XCVIII.  7,  II.  CXIII.  3.  4.  8.  12, 
CX Vlli.  4.  8. 12.  16.  C\IX.  3.  4.  5.  6. 7.  8.  CXXV.  8,  3t.  each;  CXX V.  4, 4t. ;  CXX  V.  8,  CXX VI.  I, 
3t.each;  CXXVI.  2.CXXXV.4,  8.  4t.  each;  CXXXV.  16,  3t ;  Dorsetshire:  HI.  6,  6.  9.  13, 
V.  8.  XXVI.  15, 3t.  each.  Area  Books:  Bddnworth,  Sutverton,  Strinlon ;  It.  each.  Hereford- 
shire :  VlII.  9. 10,  XIII  4,  6.  XV.  13,  XX.  10. 13, 14.  XXI.  8.  3t.  each  :  XXI.  10,  4t. ;  XXII.  ft, 
3t.;  XXV.  2.  3,4«.eacb;  XXV.  4.  5,  6,  8.  9,  St.  ««ch ;  XXV.  10,  4t.;  XXV.  11,  13,  14,  1ft,  16, 
XXVI.  5.6,7. 12.  13.  14.  15.  XXVIII.  5,10,  14,  XXXIV.  2,  XXXV.  2.  4,  8.  10,  11,  15,  3t.  each) 
Huntincrdonshire :  IX.  6.  XX.  3, 3t.  each ;  Leicestershire :  XXXL  3, 6, 4«.  each ;  XXX. 
7.5t.;  XXXI. 8.3t.  Lincolnshire:  VL1,6.7,  8,  12. XII.  10. 11,  XIX.  ft.  10. XX. 2,  at. eaeh t 
XX.  9.  4t. ;  XX.  10,  12,  13.  14.  15,  XXVIII.  2.  6,  n,  13.  XXXVII.  1,  3.  7.  8.  10,  11,  12.  XLV.  15, 
LXIII.  1.  8.  LXXI.  2.  4.  7.  3t.  each;  LXXVII.  1. 4t.:  LXXVII.  6.  St.;  Montcomenrshire : 
IX.  14. 3t. ;  XI.  15. 4t. :  XVI.  4, 3t.  6J.;  XVI.  7,  XXIII,  11,  St. ;  Norfolk:  II.  9.  3t. ;  111.  15.  4t. ; 
I Va.  13.  3t. ;  V.  16.  VII.  3.  IX.  5. 12.  X.  7.  Zt.  each.  Are*  Books:  Buxton,  Hevlnf(hem.  it.  each. 
Northamptonshire:  XLV.  5,  6t.  6<f.;  NoUinffhamshire :  XXVI.  1.  4t.;  XXVI.  6.  3f. 
SomerseUhire :  IX.  14.  XVI.  2.6.  3t. each;  XVI.  7,  4t. ;  XVI.  8.  it.;  LXIV. 4.  4t. ;  I.XXIK. 
13. 3t.;  LXXV.  1,4«.;LXXV.  6.8,  12.  LXXVI.  1.  5.  6.  9, 13,  LXXXII.  3.  4,  St.  CMb;  LXXXII.6. 
4t.;  LXXXII.  11.  13.  3t.  ca^h;  LXXXII.  14,  LXXXIII  1,  2,  5.  7.  8.  LKXXIV.  1,  LXXXIX.  3. 
3t.  each  ;  LXXXIX.  5.  8.  4t.  each.  Staflbrdshire '  LXII.  1,  4t. ;  LXU.  2,  5t.;  LXII.  9,  4t, ; 
LXIII.  11,  6t.  td.  Area  Book:  WsImU  and  ditto  Detached,  2t.  Id,  Suflblk:  Area  Book  t  Ckveo- 
dish.  It.  Warwickshire :  XXXVII.  9.  XXXVIII.  2,  4.  6.  is.  16,  XXXIX.  2.  3f.  ejcb ;  L.  16, 
LIII.  4.  LIV.  4.  4t.  each.  Wiltshire:  XXXVL  3, 14,  XXXVIU.  5,  6. 9.  14.  XLVL  16.  St.  e«:h ; 
XLVIL  15.4t.  ;XLVn.  16.  XLVlILlO,Ln.5. 11. 12,15.Lin.  4.3t.eacht  LIII.  13.  4t.;  LIIL  15, 
LIV.  2.  3t.  each.  Worcestershire:  XXXI X.  IS,  5t.;  X  LIV.  16,  U.  4, 4t.  each.  AnsBooks: 
'     Ah  ecburcb.  It.  6d. ;  Bcslej.  It. 

Town  Plans— 10-lieet  scale  .— 

Exglaxd:  Warwick,  XXXIU.  13,  4 ;  2t. 
{Stanford,  AgaU.) 

ASIA. 

Indian  Oovemment  Surveys  :— 

Indian  Atlas.  Scale  4  miles  to  an  inch.  Sheets:— 8  8.W.  Portions  of 
Jacobabad,  Shikarpoor  and  Hobree  Districts, — Sindb.  38  S.E.  Part*  of  Districts 
Aurangabad  and  Bid  (Nizam *3  DomiDioos),  Ahroedcagar  and  Xas:k  (Bombay 
Preftidency).  38  S.W.  Parts  of  Districts  Kasik,  Abmednsgsr,  Po  ma,  and  Tliana 
(Bombay  Presidency),  and  Aaran;;abad  (Nizam's  Dominions).  49  8.W.  Parts 
of  Districts  Dclbi,  Gnrgaon,  Robtsk,  and  Iliaaar  (Punjab),  Sbaikbawati  and 
L'lwar  (Rajputona).  67  N.W.  ParU  of  DistricU  Moradabad,  Bijnor,  Barcilly, 
Tarai,  and  Knmann  (N.W.  Provinces),  and  Bamfnir  (Natire  SUie).  67  8.W« 
Parts  of  Districts  Bareilly,  Bodaony  Alipirb,  Ktsb,  Moradabad,  Bulandshabr, 
Shabjabanpnr,  and  of  Eampar  Native  State  (N.W.  Provinces).— {Prelimioarj) 
Canal  I^Iapof  India,  32  miles  to  an  incb.  18^5.  6  sheets. — Hap  of  Icdta  showing 
Feeders  to  Railways  (Roads  snd  Navigable  (Canals),  1884-5,  32  miles  to  an  inch. 
6  fcbeets. — Bengal  Surrey,  1  mile  to  an  inch.  Seasons  1868  to  1868.  Sheets 
N€8.  21f3,  204,  315,  338,  339.  District  JalpaigarL— Central  India  and  Rsjpotana 
Purvey,  1  mile  to  an  inch.    Sheet  Na  9o.  Parts  of  Jodhpore  a&d  Sirohee*  8casoD 


528 


NEW  MAPS. 


1882-83,  Sheets  118,  Parts  of  Oodeyix)re,Jodhpore,aiidSiroli©e.  SeaBOUfil 880-81-82. 
148.  Paris  of  Dungarpur  and  OodeyjKire.  Season  1884-85.  149.  PartaofDungarpur 
and  Idar.  Season  1884— 85, — TrigoDometrical  Brancb,  Survey  of  India.  K^thi&wir, 
1  mile  to  an  inch.  Sheets :  No.  8  (2od  edition),  Part  of  GohelvsSd.  Seasons  1866-67 
and  67^3,  No,  9  (2nd  editiun),  Part  of  Gohelvad.  Season  18G7-68.  No.  IT 
(2nd  edition).  Parts  of  Golielrdd  and  Undsarvaiya.  Seasons  1866-67  and  69-70. 
No.  19  (2nd  editioa),  Parts  of  BAbn^Tdd  and  Gohelvdd.  Beaaon  1869-70.  No.  20 
(2nd  edition),  Parts  of  JbAUvdd  and  Macbhtikdnta.  Season  1872--73.  No.  21 
(2nd  edition).  Parts  of  JbfitUvjid  and  Macbu-kanta*  Season  1872^73,  No.  22 
(2nd  edition),  Parts  of  Kathiaw&r  and  JtiAliivdd.  Season  1872^73.  No.  23 
(2nd  edition).  Parts  of  KiithiAwir,  Jhdlivdd,  and  HAldr.  Season  18G8-69*  No. 
24  (2nd  edition),  Parts  of  Kdtbiilwiir  and  Hiiljlr.  Season  1871-72.  No.  29. 
(2nd  edition),  Parts  of  Babriawar  and  Soruth.  Seasons  1870-71  and  71-72. 
No.  35  (2nd  edition),  Part  of  Halar.  Season  1873-74  No.  45.  Part  of  HdlAr. 
Season  1874-75. — Oudb  Revenue  Survey,  1  niiie  to  an  inch.  Sbeet  No,  132. 
Districts  Eberi,  Sitapnr,  and  Bahraich.  Seasons  1863-67. — Kobat  Topograpliical 
Survey,  1  mile  to  an  incb.  Sheet  No,  7  (Parts  of  Bangasli  and  Teri  Khattak). 
Seasons  1880*81-82-83.— Mysore  Topograplncal  Survey,  1  mile  to  an  inch- 
Sheet  No.  25,  Part  of  District  Kadur.  Season  1879-82,  No.  50,  Parts  of 
Districts  Kadnrand  Mysore,  Sea^n  1879-80. — ^Hyderabad  Survey^  2  miles  to  an 
inch.  Sheets  Nos.  101,  102,  103,  125,  126  and  127  (on  one),  Mulkaid  Circar. 
Season  1824-25.  Nos,  100,  101,  124  and  125  (on  one),  Koilkondah  Circar. 
Seasons  1821, 24, 25, 29  30  and  33.  Nob.  102, 103, 126,  and  127  (on  one),  Koilkondah 
Gircar.  Seasons  1 821, 24,  25, 29, 30  and  33.  Nos.  104, 105, 128  and  129  (on  one), 
Mnlkaid  Circar.  Season  18:^4-25.  Nos.  104, 105, 128  and  129  (on  oDe),  Koil- 
kondah Circar.  Seasons  1821, 24, 25,  29,  30  and  33.  Noa.  106  and  130  (on  one), 
Mnlkaid  Circar.  Seasons  1824-25.*— Burmah  Survey,  1  inch  to  a  mile.  Sheet 
No.  74*  District  Prome,  Season  1882-83.  Ko.  77.  Districts  Henzada,  Tharra- 
waddy,  and  Prome.  Seusona  1882-85.  No.  92.  District  Prome.  Season  1882-63. 
No,  93.  Districts  Promo  and  Tbarrawaddy,  Seasons  1881-82  and  83. — Northern 
Trans- Frontier,  8  miles  to  an  inch*  Slieets  Noa.  20  and  21.  Parts  of  Tibet — 
Nortb*eastern  Trans-P rentier,  8  miles  to  an  inch.  Sheet  No.  5.  Part  of  I'ihet. — 
Trigonometrical  Brancb,  Survey  of  India.  Sbeet  No.  6  of  North-eastern  Frontier. 
Parts  of  Tibet,  Sikhim,  and  Bhutan.  8  miles  to  an  inch.— Nep^l  Boundary  Snrvey, 
Sbeet  No.  44  (2nd  edition),  1  mile  to  an  incb.  District  Gmmparun.  Seasons 
1883-64-85. — District  Hoogbly,  4  miles  to  an  inch,     {Stanford^  AgenL) 

AFRICA. 

Afrikft.-^Spezial-Karte  von  — -  im  Maasstab  von  1 :  4,000^000  or  55*5  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.  (10  Blatt.)  Entworfen  von  Hermann  Hahcnicbt,  bearbeitet 
von  demselbon,  Bnioo  Domann  und  Dr.  Richard  Liiddecke,  Zweite  Aiiflage. 
n.  Lieferang,  Inbalt:  Sektion  Zen tral- Sahara  (2)  nebst  Bcmerknngen  von 
B,  Domann.  Sektion  Seengebiet  {8}  nebst  Bemerkungen  von  Dr.  R.  Liiddecke. 
Gotba,  JiiBtns  Pertbea,  1887.     Price  Ss.    (Dttlau,) 

The  most  noti cable  feature  in  this  issue  is  the  cliangea  that  have  been  made 
ia  the  delineation  of  the  jKiliticAl  boundaries.  In  tbe  first  edition  of  this 
map  tLe  Sultan  of  Zanzibar  appeared  to  bave  been  deprived  of  nearly  all  bis 
territories,  but  in  tbe  present  map  be  lias  a  narrow  strip  of  coast-line  assi|^ned 
to  him  extending  from  2"  40'  S.  to  10^  45^  S.  and  from  tbe  sea-coast  for  about 
10  miles  inland,  with  tlie  exception  of  some  ports  which  are  coloured  as 
belonging  to  Germany.  Wiib  the  exception  of  the  alterations  in  these 
boundaries,  and  some  minor  corrections,  the  two  sheets  comprising  part  ii.  of 
this  map  of  Africa  are  reprod actions  of  sheets  2  and  8  of  the  original  edition. 


NEW  MAPS.  529 

Khniseb  Thales.— Originalkarte  des  Unteren  — »  Ton  F.  M.  Stapff.  Bednktion 
der  OriginalzeichnuDg  im  Massstab  1 :  100,000  auf  den  Massstab  1 :  225,000  or 
8*1  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Petermann's  '  Geographiache  Mitteilnngen/ 
Jabrgang  1887,  Taf.  11.    Gotha,  Juatoa  Perthes,  1887.    (Dulau.) 

Lagos.— A  Sketch  Sarvey  of  the  Inland  Water  Commnnication  in  the  Colony  of 

,  lying  between  the  French  Protectorate  of  Eotonu  and  the  British  Niger 

Protectorate.  Executed  by  command  and  under  the  personal  supervision  of  C. 
A.  Maloney,  Esq.,  c.m.o..  Administrator,  by  William  Speeding,  Harbour  Master. 
1886.  Scale  1 :  63,360  or  0*86  geographical  mile  to  an  inch.  7  sheets.  Stan- 
ibrd's  Geographical  Establishment,  London. 

This  appears  to  be  a  very  complete  survey  of  a  portion  of  the  inland  water 
communication  extending  between  the  Benin  river  and  Porto  Novo.  The 
soundings  are  given  in  feet,  and  all  important  villages  laid  down. 

Tornba  Country- — ^Route  Survey  through ,  by  Harhour  Master  William  C. 

Speeding,  who  accompanied  the  Special  Commissioners  H.  Higgins  and  0. 
Smith,  from  the  Government  of  Lagos  to  Tribes  interior  of  Lagos,  Between  17th 
August  and  lOtb  November,  1886.  F.  Evans,  Esq.,  aM.0.,  Acting  Adminis- 
trator. 

In  this  map  the  author's  route  through  the  Yoruba  Country  is  indicated  by 
a  brown  line,  the  positions  of  places  fixed  by  him  from  astronomical  observa- 
tions are  marked  with  a  red  cross,  while  those  obtained  from  missionaries  and 
natives  are  given  as  being  only  approximate.  The  number  of  inhabitants  at 
each  village  or  town  through  or  near  which  the  author  passed  appears  to  have 
been  estimated  by  him,  and  placed  in  brackets  beside  its  name. 

AUSTRALIA. 

Sud-Ost-Anstralien.— Oro-hydrographisohe  Skizse  von .    Scale  1 : 8,750,000 

or  51  *  3  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Showing  the  routes  of  Dr.  R.  v.  Lenden- 
feld  1880-85.  Petermann's  '  Geographische  Mitteilungen,'  Erg&nzungsheffc  No.  87, 
Tafel  1. 

Karten-Skizze  Ton^  Dr.  R.  v.  Lendenfeld*s  Route  in  das  Bogong  Gehirge. 
Scale  1 :  500,000  or  6*8  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

Mount  Bogong.  Nach  Dr.  R.  v.  Lendenfeld's  Aufnahme.  Scale  1 :  100,000 
or  1  *3  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

Original-Skizze  des  Kosciusco  Gebirges  von  Dr.  R.  von  Lendenfeld. 
Scale  1 :  250,000  or  3*4  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

MiiUer*s  Peak.    Scale  1 :  100,000  or  1  *  3  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

Petermann's  'Geographische  Mitteilungen,'  Erganzungsheft  No.  87,  Tafel  2. 

CHARTS. 

TTnited  States  Charts.— Na  1030.  Port  Culebra,  West  Coast  of  Costa  Rica. 
Price  It.  3(2.— No.  1032.  Piedra  Blanca  Bay,  West  Coast  of  Costa  Rica.  Price 
1*.  Sd,—No.  1034.  Gulf  of  Nicoya,  West  Coast  of  Costa  Rica.  Price  la.  8d.— 
Pilot  Chart  of  the  North  Atlantic  Ocean,  July  1887.  Published  at  the  Hydro- 
graphic  Office,  Navy  Department,  Washington,  D.C.  J.  R.  Bartlett^  Commands 
U.S.N.,  Hydrographer  to  the  Bureau  of  Navigation. 

ATLASES. 

Berghans*  Physikaliseher  Atlas  (begriindet  1836  von  Heinrich  Berghaus). 

75  Karten  in  sieben  Abteilungen,  enthaltend  mehrere  hundert  Darstellongen 

uber  Geologic,  Hydrographie,  Meteorologie,  Erdmagnetismus,  Pflanzenverbreitung, 

Ticrverbreitung  und  Ydlkerkunda»    Vollstandig  neu  bearbeitet  and  unter  Mit- 


530 


KEW  MAPS. 


wirkuns  von  Bn  Oscar  DnnJe,  Dr.  Georg  Gerland,  Dr.  Jalius  Ilann,  Dr.  G. 
Hartlaub,  Dr.  W.  Marshall,  Dr.  Gcorg  Neuaiayer,  und  Dr.  Karl  v,  Zittel 
herausgegeben  von  Professor  Dr.  Hermann  Bergbaos.  Zebnte  Liefening*  Cod- 
taintng  maps  Nos.  32,  51,  and  72,  Gotba,  Justus  Pertbes,  1887.  Price  3s.  eacb 
part,    (Dfdau,) 

8beet  No.  32  contains  a  Mercitor'a  proj^^ction  of  ibe  Wurld  on  wLicb  ia  laid 
down  tbe  mean  aQnual  barotnotrlc  pressure^  and  three  luset  maps  are  given 
fbowiDg  tbe  iBobars  for  Europe  on  an  enlarged  scale,  the  mean  daily 
range  of  tbe  barometer  for  tbe  World,  and  tbe  mean  of  the  lowest  reailinga* 
Slicet  Ko.  61  contains  two  maps  of  tbe  World  on  the  elliptical  projection, 
oti  which  are  ahown  tbe  diflVrent  regions  where  food -producing  planta 
exist*  Sheet  No.  72  ia  an  ethnographical  map,  showing  tbe  original  locations 
of  tbe  tribes  of  Indiaos  in  North  and  South  America.  The  maps,  as  usual  in 
this  atlas,  are  beantifully  drawn  ;  the  symbols  and  colours  used  are,  however, 
so  numerous  that  great  care  and  some  previous  study  are  ueocssuy  to  avoid 
mistakes. 

Japan.-^Atlas  von .      Sieben  Blatter  im  Massstabe  von  1 : 1,000,000  or  13'6 

geograpbical  miles  to  ao  inch,  iind  eine  Ubersichtskarte  im  Massstabo  vou 
1 : 7,500,000,  or  102*7  geographical  miles  to  an  inch,  entworfen  end  gezeicbnet 
von  Bruno  Hassenstein.  Zweite  (Scblnss-)  Abteilung  in  4  BL  (Sekt-  V.-VXl.) ; 
Nord'Nippon,  Yes^o  u.  Kurilen.  Ylll.  Ubersichtakarte  Im  Mossstabo  von 
1 : 7,500,000.     Gotha,  Justus  Perthes,  1887.     Price  12*.     (Dulau,) 

This  issue  completes  Herr  Ilassenstein's  admirable  Atlas  of  Japan.     In  tbe 

I  preface  the  author  acknowledges  the  sources  from  which  his  inlormation  is 

drawn,  and  in  turu  gives  an  hi^storica!  sketch  of  that  portion  of  Japan  which  is 
represented  on  each  sheet.  Sheet  V.  includes  all  that  portion  of  Nippon  north 
of  the  thirty-eij^hth  decree  of  north  latitude,  and  part  of  southern  Yesao.  i^beet 
YL  includes  the  whole  of  the  Island  of  Yesso,  with  the  exception  of  iis  eastern 

I  extremity,  which  with  the  Kuril  Islands  is  given  on  sheet  Vli.    Biieet  Vlil.  is 

a  general  map  of  Japan  on  a  reduced  scale^oa  which  political  divisions  and  all 
means  of  cornmunicalion  are  kid  down.  The  maps  are  beautiful  sriecimens 
of  cartography,  the  hill-work  being  shaded  in  brown,  and  the  lowland  coloured 
green ;  the  lettering  is  very  clear,  heights  are   given    in    English    feet,    And 

i  ioundings  in  both  metres  and  fathoms.     In  the  projections  the  longitude  is 

*  given  from  Paris  and  Greenwich. 

Stanford,  E. — London  Atlas  of  Universal  Geography,    Londoo,  E,  Stanford,  1887. 
Price  12^ 


s?r!:iT^ 


PROCEEDINGS 

OF  THB 

ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  RECOBD  OP  GEOGRAPHY. 


A  Journey  in  Manchuria. 
By  H.  E.  M.  James,  of  the  Bombay  Civil  Service. 

(Bead  at  the  Evening  Meeting,  June  6th,  1887.) 
Kap,  p.  594. 
I  THINK  it  may  interest  the  Society  to  know  that  my  companions  and 
I  have  to  thank  one  who  is  well  known  here,  I  mean  Mr.  Archibald 
Colquhoun,  for  the  first  suggestion  of  Manchuria  as  a  field  for  travel. 
Wo  had  originally  planned  an  expedition  in  southern  China,  but  we 
chose  Manchuria  on  learning  that  it  was  but  little  known,  that  the 
climate  and  chances  of  sport  were  alike  good,  that  the  people  were 
pleasant  to  deal  with,  and  also  because  wo  hoped  to  see  something  of 
the  Russians  on  the  frontier.  I  fear  my  observations  will  not  have  that 
scientific  character  which  befits  a  paper  read  in  this  place,  but  none  of 
the  observations  taken  on  the  journey  have  yet  been  worked  out,  so  I 
must  necessarily  confine  myself  to  a  simple  account  of  our  doings. 

Manchuria  is  that  part  of  Tartary  which  occupies  the  north-eastern 
comer  of  the  Chinese  Empire,  being  bounded  on  the  north  and  east 
by  Russia,  and  on  the  south  by  Korea,  the  Yellow  Sea,  and  the  Gulf  of 
Liau-tung.  The  name  signifies  the  country  of  the  Manchu  Tartars.  It 
has,  however,  never  been  applied  in  the  extensive  sense  that  foreigners 
use  it,  cither  by  Manchus  or  Chinese.  Occasionally  the  term  Shing-king, 
which  is,  properly  speaking,  merely  the  translation  of  the  Manchu 
word  Mukden,*  the  southern  capital  of  Manchuria,  is  applied  by  the 
Chinese  to  the  whole  country  from  the  sea  to  the  Amur,  but  the 
ordinary  name  is  Tang-san-sh6ng,  or  the  three  eastern  provinces : 
that  is  to  say,  the  province  of  Liau-tung  in  the  south,  of  which  Mukden 
is  the  capital ;  Eirin  in  the  centre  with  a  capital  of  the  same  name ;  and 
the  province  of  Helung-kiang,  or  Black  Dragon  river  (the  Chinese 
word  for  the  Amur),  in  the  north,  vdth  capital  Tsitsihar.  Liau-tung, 
which  is  more  generally  known  as  F^ng-tien,  or  "Heaven  ordained" 
(as  it  has  been  "  ordained "  as  the  source  of  the  preseut  ruling 
*  i  e.  FlonriBhing  Capital 

No.  IX.— Sept.  1887.]  2  q 


532 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCBURLi. 


dynasty),  is  densely  populated,  and  is  computed  to  contain  twelve  or 
tkirteen  millions  of  people.  Eirin  contains  probably  eight  millions,  and 
Tsitsibar  jierbaps  twomillionB,  I  base  tbese  figures  on  calculations  mado 
hy  a  former  Britisb  Consul  at  Kow-chwang,  who  went  into  tbe  question 
with  a  good  deal  of  care,  and  a  missionary,  whom  I  consulted,  comes  to 
much  the  same  conclusion,  Tho  total  area  of  Manchuria  (inclusive  of  a 
patch  of  Mongolia  on  the  north-west,  which  is  included  in  Tsitsihar)  is 
about  380,000  square  miles.  It  is  therefore  larger  than  the  Austrian 
Empire  and  Great  Britain  and  Ireland  put  together*  In  India  it  "would 
be  called  non  regulation  territuiy.  Though  the  law  administered  is  the 
same  as  in  China  Proper,  and  in  the  more  settled  parts  there  is  the  same 
civil  organisation,  yet  the  administration  is  essentially  a  military  one, 
and  the  chief  appointments  are  all  held  by  Manchu  military  officers. 
Originally  the  governor,  or  Tartar  general  of  each  province,  horo  the 
same  title,  viz*  Kiang-kun  (Chiang*chiin),  but  a  few  years  ago  the 
exaltod  Chinese  title  of  Ttsuog-tti,  or  governor-general,  was  conferred 
on  the  guvemor  of  Mukden,  and  the  other  two  governors  are  now 
subordinate  to  him.  IIo  used  also  to  be  commander-in-chief  as  well  as 
head  of  the  civil  administration,  but  in  November  1885  a  special  com- 
mander-in-chief named  Mu  was  appointed  to  reorganise  the  forces  in 
Manchuria,  who  is  independent  of  the  governor-gene ral.  In  the  province 
of  Feog-tien  the  titles  and  grades  of  officials,  magistrates,  and  the  like  are 
j^reciJsely  the  same  as  in  China  Proper,  It  is  only  in  the  outlying  districts 
of  the  centre  and  north  that  military  and  civil  functions  are  found 
united  in  the  same  persons. 

Ftng-tien  actually  adjoins  the  province  of  Chihli  in  which  Pekin 
itself  is  situated,  and  has  always  been  comparatively  civilised,  bearing 
much  the  same  relation  to  the  wild  hilly  tracts  in  the  north  and  east 
that  Bengal  does  to  Assam  and  Bhutan.  For  centuries  it  was  subject 
to  Korea,  then  a  warlike  and  powerful  stata,  but  since  the  eighth  centur}^ 
it  has,  except  during  one  brief  interval,  been  incorporated  with  China. 
The  other  two  provinces  did  not  come  under  the  direct  control  of  Pekin 
till  1644,  when  the  Manchus  conquered  the  Chiacso  Empire.  With  a 
very  sparse  indigenous  population  of  Tartar  hunters  these  two  provinces 
w^ero  reserved  until  comparatively  recent  times,  partly  as  a  nursery 
for  Tartar  soldiers,  but  mainly  as  a  place  for  the  transportation  of 
criminals,  and  it  is  only  since  1820  that  colonists  have  been  permitted 
to  settle  there.  For  a  long  time  after  that  date  life  and  property 
were  so  insecxire  that  the  development  of  the  country  has  been  very 
slow,  but  during  the  last  twenty  years  great  progress  has  been  made. 
Kirin  and  Tsitsihar  are,  however,  still  used  as  a  kind  of  Botany  Bay,  not 
only  for  criminals  properly  so  called,  but  for  ill-behaved  mandarins.  In 
consequence  the  administrntion  is  feeble  and  corrupt,  and  the  cotrntiy 
swarms  with  a  mnltitude  of  evil  characters. 

Manchuria  (for  I  will  continno  tonso  the  name  adopted  by  Westerns) 


I 


A  JOURN£Y  IN  MANCHURIA.  533 

is  essentially  a  highland  country,  a  land  of  mountain  and  river,  forest 
and  swamp.     The  whole  of  the  south  and  east  is  occupied  by  consider- 
able ranges  of  hills,  the  tops  and  slopes  of  which  are  covered  with  dense 
woods,    and    which    geographers    have    christened    Chang-pai    Shan, 
literally,  Long  White  Mountains,  or  else  Shan-alin,  which  is  part  of  the 
Manchu  word  for  the  same  thing.    The  mountaineers,  however,  give  each 
separate  ridge  or  conspicuous  hill  a  separate  name,  and  confine  the  title  of 
Long  White  Mountain  to  the  principal  peak  in  the  region.     The  ranges 
appear   as  if  they  had  come  into    existence  on   the  most    incoherent 
system,  running  in  one  part  from  north  to  south  and  elsewhere  from 
east  to  west.     They  form  part  of  a  series  of  low  volcanic  hills  from  three 
thousand  to  six  thousand  feet  in  height,  which  extend  on  the  south  far 
into  Korea,  and  on  the  west  into  the  Eussian  maritime  province  as  far  as 
the  Sea  of  Okhotsk.     The  only  really  plain  country  is  found  in  a  fertile 
alluvial  tract  in  Feng-tien,  which  is  watered  by  the  river  Liau,  and 
again  to  the  north  and  west  of  Eirin,  where  the  Nonni  drains  a  vast  area 
of  undulating  Mongolian  steppes.     North  of  the  lower  reaches  of  the 
Sungari,  the  hills  form  part  of  a  separate  system  also  volcanic,  and 
which  are  in  fact  outlying  spurs  of  the  Khin-gan  range.     The  principal 
rivers  are  the  Liau,  Yalu  or  Ai  Chiang,  the  Sungari  or  Sung-hwa  Chiang, 
the  Nonni,  and  the  Hurka  or  Mutan  Chiang.  The  Liau  rises  in  Mongolia 
and  flows  into  the  Gulf  of  Liau-tung,  close  to  the  treaty  port  of  New- 
chwang.     The  next  three  rise  within  a  comparatively  few  miles  of  one 
another  in  the  most  remote  recesses  of  the   Ch'ang-pai  Mountains. 
The  Yalu  flows  west  into  the  Yellow  Sea ;   the  T*um^n  flows  into  the 
Japan  Sea,  and  the  two  together  form  part  of  the  boundary  between 
Manchuria  and  Korea.     The  Sungari — which  is  by  far  the  largest,  being 
navigable  by  large  junks  as   far  as  Kirin — is  one  of  the  most  con- 
siderable tributaries  of  the  Amur.     The  Nonni,  flowing  due  south,  and 
the  Mutan  Chiang,  due  north,  are  its  main  affluents. 

On  the  map  are  marked  two  barriers  of  palisades,  one  com- 
mencing at  the  Great  Wall  and  passing  by  Yu-shih-tung-tzu  and  Kuan- 
chang-tzu  to  Fa-ta-ha^man,  and  the  other  starting  from  Fung-whang- 
chang  on  the  Korean  border,  and  meeting  the  first  not  very  far 
from  Kai-yuen.  These  palisades  were  built  by  the  Ming  dynasty  about 
four  centuries  ago.  They  consisted  of  long  lines  of  wooden  chevaux  de 
friso,  in  the  shape  of  a  St.  Andrew's  cross,  and  made  it  difficult  for  men, 
and  especially  for  cavalry,  to  pass,  except  through  gates  at  various 
intervals.  They  were  intended  to  protect  Liau-tung  from  the  Mongols 
on  the  north  and  the  Manchus  on  the  east.  At  the  present  day  they 
have  disappeared  entirely,  though  a  mound  or  row  of  trees  occasionally 
marks  the  place  where  they  stood.  The  gateways,  however,  are  still 
maintained  as  customs  posts,  at  which  transit  duties  are  levied. 

Manchuria  has  a  history  of  its  own,  though  space  allows  but  a  brief 
allusion  to  it.     I  daresay  most  people  are  aware  Manchuria  is  the 

2  Q  2 


534 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHCRU. 


cradle  of  tlie  exiisting  rlynasty  af  China  ;  but  it  is  not  equally  well 
known  that  China  has  heen  conquered  twice  before  by  Tartars  from  this 
region.  About  odo  hnii(3red  years  before  onr  William  the  Conqoeror,  a 
tribe  called  the  Ketaa  invaded  China,  and  took  possession  of  the  throne, 
udopting  the  title  of  Lian,  it  is  said,  from  the  river  in  Feng-tien.  In 
!e68  than  two  htiridred  years  they,  in  their  tnrn,  were  driven  out  by  the 
Nen-chin,  another  tribe  from  the  same  neighbourhood,  who  called 
themselves  the  Kin,  or  golden  dynasty,  and  who  were  npset  in  the 
thirteenth  century  by  Ghenghis  Khan,  the  3Iougolian  "  Scourge  of  the 
World."  The  Mongols  were  overthro'WTi  by  a  Cliinese  rebel  towards  the 
end  of  the  fourteenth  century,  who  founded  the  Ming  dynasty  ;  and  when 
that  had  lasted  nearly  300  years,  came  the  present  Tartar  dynasty. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  during  six  out  of  the  last  nine  centxiries 
China»  at  any  rate  North  China,  has  been  ruled  by  foreigners. 
The  history  of  Chinn,  in  fact»  is  the  history  of  most  Oriental 
monarchies :  a  po%verful  tribe  under  a  powerful  head  conquers  the 
country,  and  for  one  or  two  generations  rules  it  wisely  and  firmly. 
Gradually  luxury'  creeps  into  the  court;  the  princes  Income  dissolute 
and  effete;  the  administration  falls  into  a  state  of  degradation  and 
inefficiency ;  and  thea  the  collapse  of  the  dynasty  is  ocly  a  matter  of 
time.  Such  was  the  case  in  the  year  1643,  when  the  last  Ming  emperor 
was  on  the  throne*  A  common  brigand,  named  Li-tsu-chung,  headed  a 
successful  rebellion  and  took  l^ekin.  The  emperor  committed  suicide,  and 
the  rebel  proclaimed  himself  in  his  stead.  Then  came  the  opportunity 
of  the  Manchus,  About  sixty  years  before  the  fall  of  the  Mings  a  chief 
had  ax-isen  who  had  conqweretl  and  confiolidated  into  one  i>owerful  state 
all  the  miscellaneous  Tartar  clans  who  inhabited  the  country  outside 
the  palisades.  ITis  name  was  Nurh-hoHL'hib,  and  he  liv*ed  in  a  remote 
valley  on  the  Su-tzii  Ho,  about  90  miles  east  of  Mukden  and  60  from  the 
then  Chinese  frontier.  Only  six  or  seven  small  villages  owned  him  as  lord. 
It  hapi>ened  that  his  father  and  grandfather  were  betrayed  by  another 
Manchu  to  the  Chinese,  and  Nurh-ho-chih  resolved  to  avenge  them. 
He  ooUected  a  few  followers  and  attacked  the  tribes  with  whom  the 
traitor  took  refuge  one  after  the  other.  Eventually  he  succeeded  in  his 
vengeful  quest,  but  the  delights  of  victory^  led  him  on  to  further  conquests 
till  he  had  made  himself  master  of  the  whole  of  Manchuria  outside  the 
Chinese  boundar}-.  He  spent  some  time  organising  a  good  administra- 
tion, in  the  courise  of  which  he  gave  his  countrTj'men,  for  the  first  time, 
a  written  alphabet.  At  last  he  felt  himself  sufficiently  strong  to  attack 
China,  and  before  ho  died,  in  the  year  1 626,  he  had  made  himself  master 
of  the  Chinese  province  of  Feng-tien,  His  sncceesor  continued  hai-asaing 
the  Chinese  till  the  downfall  of  the  Ming  dynasty,  when  Wn-san- 
Irwei,  who  had  been  appointed  by  the  Emperor  to  command  on  the  Man- 
chnrian  frontier,  sent  over  to  his  quondam  enemy  inviting  him  to  come 
and  avenge  hifi  deceased  lord.      0?er]oyed,  the  Manchu  accepted  the 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURIA.  685 

offer,  marched  on  to  Pekin,  and  in  tho  year  1644  the  present  dynasty  was 
proclaimed  in  the  person  of  Nurh-ho-chih's  grandson,  a  boy  of  six. 

The  story  cannot  fail  to  remind  a  student  of  history  of  the  rise  of 
Sivajee,  the  Mahratta  hill  robber,  who  undermined,  and  whose  successors 
destroyed,  the  Mogul  Empire  of  India.  Naturally,  ever  since  the  capture 
of  Fekin,  Manchuria  has  been  (and  it  was  so  in  the  case  of  the  two 
previous  Tartar  dynasties)  the  great  recruiting  ground  for  the  Imperial 
army.  Thus,  it  has  always  been  in  a  state  of  depletion  of  its  best  blood 
and  suffered  greatly  in  consequence.  But  of  recent  years,  as  I  said 
before,  Chinese  cultivators  from  Shang-tung,  Ghihli,  and  other  northern 
provinces  of  China,  have  flocked  into  it  in  large  numbers — so  much  so, 
that  for  one  Manchu  that  is  now  to  be  seen,  there  are  probably  twenty 
Chinese.  Nearly  all  special  Manchu  customs  have  disappeared ;  except 
in  the  army,  the  Tartar  hat  has  disappeared  like  the  hat  of  the  old 
women  in  Wales,  and  the  language  itself  is  now  only  spoken  in  a  few 
remote  valleys;  in  fact,  two  teachers  of  Manchu  had  actually  to  be 
imported  from  Pekin  to  Kirin  two  years  ago  on  the  express  ground 
that  the  few  Manchus  who  had  any  knowledge  of  their  own  language 
were  all  wanted  as  official  clerks.  Imagine  the  getter-up  of  a  Welsh 
Eisteddfod  sending  to  London  for  a  couple  of  bards  to  speak  Welsh,  and 
the  parallel  is  complete.  With  the  language,  the  alphabet  also  is  dis- 
appearing, and  the  clumsy  barbarous  Chinese  hieroglyphics  are  replac- 
ing it.  It  is  the  old  story  over  again,  "  Grs&cia  capta  ferum  victorem 
cepit."  So  much  so,  that  the  late  Consul  of  New-chwang,  Mr.  Meadows, 
a  gentleman  of  keen  observation,  declared  it  was  impossible  to  dis- 
tinguish Manchus  from  Chinese  by  their  features  or  general  appear- 
ance ;  but  in  this  I  think  he  went  a  little  too  far.  When  a  large  body 
of  them  are  seen  together  the  difference  of  race  can,  if  I  mistake  not, 
be  seen  at  once,  as  Manchiis  look  more  like  the  Newars  or  the  Ghoorkas 
of  Nepaul  than  typical  Chinamen.  They  are  generally  short  and  good- 
looking,  brown  as  Italians  or  Sikhs,  with  high  cheek-bones,  dark  rosy 
cheeks,  and  large  brown  eyes,  which  are  but  little  oblique.  Never- 
theless, looks  apart,  they  are  to  all  intents  and  purposes  Chinamen. 

I  am  bound  to  say  the  discovery  caused  ourselves  a  little  disappoint- 
ment. We  expected  to  see  a  fine  wild  savage  race,  picturesquely 
dressed,  riding  furiously  on  gallant  horses,  the  heaux'idM»  of  barbario 
manliness,  instead  of  a  population  of  ordinary  stolid  Chinamen.  In 
one  point,  however,  Manchus  do  maintain  a  distinction  which  puta 
them  far  above  the  Chinese :  they  do  not  mutilate  their  women's  feet, 
and  to  this  day  no  woman  with  crashed  feet  may  enter  the  Imperial 
court.  When  they  took  China  they  ordered  the  men  to  shave  their 
foreheads,  to  plait  their  back  hair  in  pigtaila,  and  also  to  wear  narrow 
instead  of  wide  sleeves  to  their  coats,  and  they  ordered  the  women 
not  to  torture  their  little  girls  by  cramping  their  feet.  The  men  meekly 
submitted,  but  the  ladies  indignantly  refosed.    And  I  need  scaroely  tay 


536 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURIA. 


that  then,  as  sioce,  it  was  found  hopeless  trying  to  roform  barbarous 
female  faBhion  wlien  the  ladies  had  mado  up  their  minds  aboiit  it. 

Manchus  still  enjoy  certain  privileges.  Every  male  who  arrives 
at  the  age  of  puberty,  as  soon  ae  he  can  draw  the  bow,  ia  enrolled  in 
pne  of  eight  coi-ps  of  militia,  called  Banners^  from  each  corps  carrying 
distinctive  flag.  This  entitles  bim  to  receive  a  retaining  fee  of 
1  taelj  say  5*.  Od,  a  month.  He  is  given  lan<l  to  cultivate  rent-free, 
which  he  generally  sublets  to  a  Chinaman^  and  if  he  is  employed  on 
active  military  service  he  gets  from  5  to  7  tads  a  month.  The  result 
is,  the  Manchua,  instead  of  taking  to  honest  work,  are  mostly  hangers- 
on  about  yam 6ns  (or  public  offices),  picking  up  odd  l>its  of  work, 
and  trying  for  permanent  official  employment.  They  take  to  dissipation 
and  gambling,  and  become  disreputable  members  of  society-  General 
Hu  is,  however,  now  converting  a  largo  number  of  these  idle 
militiamen  into  regulars ;  and  the  race  has  produced,  and  produces,  as 
good  civil  officials  ever3^  whit  as  the  Chinese.  I  have  brought  a  Manchu 
bow  and  arrows  for  those  to  see  who  are  curious  about  such  things.  It 
is  singular  that  a  race  which  is  wise  enough  to  manufacture  repeating 
rifles  and  to  buy  Krupp  cannon  tshould  still  employ  a  considerable 
number  of  archers.     The  bow  and  arrow  drill  is  very  amusing  to  see. 

One  word  more  about  the  history  of  Manchuria,  Until  the  year  1858 
a  line  running  for  about  1000  miles  north  of  tlie  Amur  river  at  a  dis- 
tance of  from  500  to  1000  miles  from  it,  and  continuing  down  the  coast 
as  far  as  the  Corean  frontier,  marked  the  boundary  of  the  Chinese  pos- 
sessions as  fixed  by  treaty  with  Russia,  and  the  navigation  of  the  Amur 
by  the  Eussians  was  not  permitted*  During  the  Crimean  war,  however, 
they  were  obliged  to  use  that  road  for  victualling  their  settlements  in 
Kamstehatka,  so  numerous  expeditions  were  sent  down  the  river,  and 
posts  established  all  aloug  its  bank.  In  1858,  China  being  tlien  in  the 
throes  of  the  Tae-ping  rebellion,  Euesia  called  on  her  to  legalise  what  had 
been  done,  and  the  whole  of  the  country  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Amur 
was  ceded  to  her.  Two  years  later,  in  1860,  when  in  addition  to  the 
Tae-ping  rebellion  the  English  and  French  armies  were  before  Pekin, 
Russia,  anxious  to  obtain  an  outlet  for  her  Siberian  trade  leas  liable  to 
be  closed  by  the  ice  than  porta  in  the  Sea  of  Okhotsk,  requested  the 
Emperor  Hien-fung  to  make  her  over  the  tract  between  the  river  Usuri 
and  the  sea.  The  countiy^  was  then  practically  worth  nothing  to  China, 
and  she  gave  it  up  quietly.  History  will  yet  show  whether  Russia  acted 
wisely  in  overstepping  such  a  capital  boundary  as  the  Amur.  Some 
people  indeed  think  that  Russia  would  not  mind  taking  another  slice  of 
Manchuria  if  the  occasion  offered:  others  believe  that  the  Chinese, 
having  been  successful  ia  recovering  Kuldja,  might,  if  opportunity 
offisred,  try  and  recover  the  sea-coast  strip.  And  even  though  both 
bides  may  desire  peace,  the  best  friends  are  liable  to  fall  out  when 
crowded  too  close  together. 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURU.  537 

Manchuria  certainly  is  a  most  delightful  country.  In  the  summer 
the  climate  is  delicious,  that  is  when  it  does  not  rain.  It  is  occasionally 
hot,  but  we  never  felt  anything  worse  than  87°  in  the  shade.  The 
winter  is  certainly  severe.  In  the  south  the  thermometer  goes  down 
to  —  15**  Fahr.,  and  in  the  north  to  —  48°  Fahr.,  but  the  cold 
weather  is  extremely  bracing  and  healthy,  and  at  that  season  the  frozen 
roads  make  admirable  highways  for  a  vast  amount  of  traffic.  During 
the  rest  of  the  year  they  are  miry  and  impracticable.  It  is  very  fertile, 
but  I  need  not  give  a  list  of  all  the  crops  that  are  grown,  as  they  differ 
but  little  from  the  crops  of  northern  China  generally.  I  may,  however 
name  three,  the  bean,  the  small  millet,  and  the  poppy.  Of  the  first 
there  are  innumerable  varieties,  and  the  oil  extracted  from  them  forms 
the  staple  export  of  the  country.  The  hsiau-mi  or  small  millet  has  a  tiny 
grain  like  canary  seed,  and  when  boiled  makes  first-rate  porridge,  as  I  can 
gratefully  testify.  The  l)oppy  grows  luxuriantly,  and  the  native  grown 
opium  has  almost  completely  ousted  the  Indian  drug.  The  imports  of 
the  latter  into  Manchuria  in  the  year  1866  amounted  to  572,000Z. ;  in 
1885  they  amounted  to  only  31,300Z.,  and  opium  is  grown  not  only -for 
local  consumption,  but  for  distribution  in  parts  of  northern  and  central 
China.  This  fact  will  show  that  the  opium  question,  which  has  exercised 
so  many  philanthropists  in  the  past,  is  in  a  fair  way  of  settling 
itself,  though  not  in  the  precise  way  perhaps  that  the  philanthropists 
wish.  The  Chinese  are  openly  growing  the  drug  for  themselves,  and 
the  taste  for  Indian  opium  is  disappearing  in  favour  of  the  home  article, 
iust  as  in  India  Trichinopoly  cheroots  have  of  late  completely  ousted 
Manillas.  So  now  that  the  Che-fu  Convention  has  come  into  force, 
which  has  in  fact,  though  perhaps  not  in  name,  imposed  an  additional 
duty  on  the  Indian  article,  it  is  almost  safe  to  prophesy  that  in  a  short 
time  the  Indian  trade  will  be  seriously  affected,  and  the  use  of  the 
Indian  drug  will  be  confined  to  a  few  wealthy  (^ounncte.  The  Indian 
ryot  will  suffer,  having  to  make  good  a  deficit  of  some  millions  sterling, 
while  the  whole  population  of  China,  instead  of  as  now  only  a  part  of 
it,  will  in  future  enjoy  the  luxury  of  opium  smoking.  Admitting  that 
there  are  many  evils  connected  with  opium,  I  may  add  that  I  can  only 
remember  meeting  two  persons  who  had  ruined  themselves  in  health  by 
it,  and  that  some  experienced  foreigners  whom  wo  met  were  of  opinion 
that  taken  in  moderation  on  a  full  stomach  it  is  no  worse  than  tobacco. 

The  mineral  wealth  of  Manchuria  is  very  great.  In  one  spot  we 
found  iron  and  gold  within  a  few  miles  of  one  another,  and  we  were  told 
that  there  was  also  a  silver  mine  close  by.  There  is  also  abundance  of 
very  good  coal  and  peat.  A  good  deal  of  gold  is  exported,  but  mining 
is  strictly  contrary  to  the  law,  and  the  day  before  we  arrived  at  Sansing 
a  man  was  executed  for  it.  Notwithstanding,  in  remote  parts  where  the 
mandarins  dare  not  go,  a  great  deal  of  mining,  or  rather  washing,  is 
carried  on. 


538 


A  JOUKNEY  IN  MANCHURIA, 


The  forests  also  are  very  valuable,  the  pme  trees,  walnute,  oak,  and 
elm  being  conspicuous  for  their  size.  The  trees  are  floated  down  the 
rivers  during  tho  rains,  and  from  the  mouth  of  tbe  Yalii  alone  vast 
qiiautities  are  exported  over  the  wbolo  of  China* 

Minor  prmliicts,  of  great  value  in  the  ©yes  of  the  Chinese,  are  invs^ 
ginseng,  and  deer-liorns,  Tho  hilla  yield  a  great  deal  of  very  fine  sable, 
and  the  tiger  and  lynx  skina  are  magnificent,  tho  severity  of  the  climate 
making  the  fur  groiv  far  longer  than  in  a  tropical  country  like  India. 
Tho  root  of  the  wild  ginseng  ia  a  medicine  very  highly  esteemed, 
and  Bclls  fur  about  lOi.  to  20L  an  ounce.  In  tho  interior  of  the 
Oh*ang-pai  Mountains  we  saw  companies,  twelve  or  fifteen  young  men 
in  each,  scouring  the  valleys  and  glens  in  search  of  the  plant;  one 
or  two  roots  will  repay  them  for  a  season^s  lalMUr*  A  great  deal  of 
cultivated  ginseng  is  grown,  but  the  value  of  it  is  very  small,  only  5». 
or  (i«.  a  ponnd.  Extraordinary  virtues  are  attributed  to  this  plant,  and 
I  am  not  sure  they  are  altogether  moonehine.  A  friendly  innkeeper 
once  gave  us  a  little  chopped  into  fine  ehreds,  of  which  wo  made  tea, 
and  certainly  it  proved  very  useful  in  case  of  Btomach-ache.  Lastly,  tiio 
deer-horns,  which  form  an  important  article  in  tho  Chinese  pharma- 
copoeia, may  be  mentioned.  If  secured  a  short  time  after  the  horn  has 
sprouted,  that  ia  to  say,  when  it  ia  ouly  about  a  foot  long  and  full  of 
blood,  the  Chinese  are  ready  to  pay  almost  any  price  for  it  One  pair 
was  shown  to  us  for  which  50/.  had  been  refused. 

It  is  time,  however,  that  I  should  give  some  account  of  our  journey 
itself.  I  was  accompanied  from  India  by  Mr,  Younghuaband,  whose 
taste  for  travel  is  hereditary,  as  he  is  nephew  to  Mr.  Shaw,  the  first 
English  explorer  of  Yarkaud  and  Kashgar.  We  were  joined  in  China 
by  Mr.  H.  Fulford,  a  young  officer  in  the  Consular  aervice,  to  whom  the 
Charge-d*afFaires  kindly  gave  leave.  lie  spoke  Chinese  capitally,  a  for- 
tunate thing  for  U8,  On  the  19th  May  we  Btarfced  from  Ying-teu,  known  in 
official  language  as  Kow-chwang,  the  name  of  a  town  30  miles  further  up 
the  Liau  river.  Ke^v-chwang  indeed  waa  the  port  originally,  but  owing 
to  the  rapid  accretion  of  land  at  the  mouth  of  the  Liau  the  shipping 
gradually  moved  down  the  river.  Still,  an  Lord  Elgin's  Treaty  con- 
tains the  name  Now-chwang,  that  name  has  l>een  applied  ever  since  to 
the  town  where  the  British  Consul  resides*  We  first  went  to  Mukden, 
120  mileB  to  tho  north,  a  large  wiilled  city  containing  200,000  kihabit- 
anta.  After  the  conquest  of  Liau-tung,  Ntirh-ho-chih  fixed  on  this  as 
hia  capital.  It  contains  an  Imperial  palace,  where  the  relics  of  the 
hero  are  said  to  be  kept.  On  two  hills  in  tho  neighbourhood,  surrounded 
by  sombre  groves  of  pine,  and  adorned  with  fine  triumphal  arches  and 
monuments  of  various  kinde,  tho  Great  Ancestor,  as  the  dynasty  rightly 
calls  him,  and  his  son  are  buried*  Before  the  conquest  of  China, 
Nurh-ho-chih  had,  in  imitation  of  the  Miogs,  created  various  Boards 
or  departments  for  the  conduct  of  the  adminiatration,  and  the  fiction 
is  still  kept  up,  though  nowadays  Blukden  is  only  a  provincial  town,  and 


• 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURIA.  639 

has  not  been  honoured  with  an  Imperial  visit  for  upwards  of  forty 
years.  The  Manchu  Emperor  constructed  also  Temples  of  Heaven  and 
Earth  in  imitation  of  those  at  Pekin,  but  these,  though  still  existing, 
have  been  allowed  to  decay.  At  Mukden  we  hired  twenty  mules,  to 
which  we  had  afterwards  to  add  six  more,  for  in  the  hills  it  was  neces- 
sary to  reduce  the  loads  to  the  smallest  dimensions.  Wo  carried  a  small 
Kabul  tent  which  was  very  useful  occasionally  when  camping  out 
in  the  forests,  though  we  generally  succeeded  in  finding  a  hunter's 
hut,  while  in  the  cultivated  country  wherever  there  were  farms 
there  were  inns — of  a  kind.  The  Chinese  resemble  the  Americans  in 
this  respect  —  wherever  they  make  a  new  settlement  the  first  thing 
they  do  is  to  establish  an  inn,  which  fulfils  the  joint  purposes  of  a 
saloon,  a  grocery,  and  a  dry  goods  store ;  and  though  I  will  not  say 
the  accommodation  is  luxurious,  still  travellers  may  bo  thankful 
for  it. 

From  Mukden  we  turned  due  east  up  the  valley  of  the  Hun,  a  large 
affluent  of  the  Liau,  through  a  most  beautiful  and  well-wooded  valley. 
The  second  day  we  passed  Fu-shun-chang,  formerly  the  frontier 
town  of  China,  and  the  first  which  the  Manchiis  attacked.  We  then 
followed  the  Su  tzu  Ho,  a  tributary  of  the  Hun,  passing  Sarhu,  the 
scene  of  the  greatest  and  most  decisive  battle  between  the  Manchus  and 
the  Chinese,  an  account  of  which  in  Manchu  and  Chinese  is  inscribed  on 
a  fine  marble  slab  erected  on  the  spot.  About  16  miles  further  we 
passed  an  ancient  palace,  and  then  Yung-ling,  a  village  filled  with 
soldiers,  who  guard  a  hill  on  which  are  situated  the  tombs  of  Nurh-ho- 
chih's  ancestors.  Three  or  four  miles  beyond  stands  Yenden  or  Hing- 
King,  the  "  capital  of  prosperity,"  now  a  pretty  village,  with  decaying 
gates  and  walls,  containing  an  insignificant  yamSn  or  government  office. 
This  was  Nurh-ho-chih's  second  but  most  celebrated  capital ;  from  which 
he  went  out  to  fight  at  Sarhu.  Two  miles  south  are  the  remains  of 
Lao-cheng,  his  first  capital. 

Settlers  are  now  taking  up  their  abode  in  great  numbers  in  the 
adjoining  valleys,  and  the  forests  are  rapidly  falling  before  the  axe.  The 
scenery  in  the  neighbourhood  is  marvellously  beautiful — woods  and 
flowers  and  grassy  glades — and  to  the  lover  of  nature  it  is  simply  a 
paradise.  The  first  day  I  began  to  collect  I  found  no  less  than  five 
kinds  of  lilies  of  the  valley,  and  it  was  common  to  see  whole  hill-sides 
covered  with  masses  of  that  delicious  flower,  which  is  such  a  favourite 
in  England.  Beautiful  mandarin  ducks  haunted  every  pool  and  stream, 
and  from  the  mountain  tops  the  cock-pheasant's  crow  was  heard  on 
all  sides.  We  had,  however,  started  just  a  little  too  late,  for  the  spring 
rains  were  even  then  beginning,  and  the  roads  were  becoming  difficult. 
We  followed  the  Su-tzu  Ho  to  its  source  in  the  hills,  crossed  the  water- 
shed, and  on  the  ninth  day  after  leaving  Mukden  arrived  at  T'ung-hwa- 
hsien,  the  seat  of  a  resident  magistrate;  it  is  situated  on  the  Hun 
Chiang,  an  affluent  of  the  Yalu,  which  came  down  in  flood  and  stopped 


6^0 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MAKCHURIA. 


our  progress  for  some  days.     Hardly  liad  we  suoceeded  in  passing  it 
bofore  we  were  again  detained  by  ooo  of  its  tributaries,  and  it  was  not 
till  nearly  a  month  after  leaving  Mukden  tliat  we  reached  Mau-crh  Shan, 
which  is  the  farthest  Chineso  outpost  on  tho  Yalu,  and  garrisoned  by 
200  men*     We  had  intended  following,  if  possible,  tho  Yalu  up  to  its 
source,  crossing  the  watershed  and  descending  the  valley  of  the  T*um^n, 
but  we  found  this  was  quite  impracticable.     Above  Mau-erh  Shan,  the 
river   passes  under  a   euooession  of   lofty  and  precipitous   cliffs,   and 
though  a  few  colonists  have  penetrated  into  the  valleys  beyond  to  cut 
wood,  communication  is  almost  entirely  cut  off,  except  in  the  winter, 
when  the  river  is  frozen  over.     We  learned,  however,  that  by  crossing 
the  mountain   chain  on  our  left,    we  should  find   a   path  practicable 
for  mules,  which  would  take   us  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Sungari, 
and  then  across  another  range   into  the  T*um^n  valley,  so  we  turned 
our   faces    northwards.       We    followed    Number    Two    of   the   upper 
affluents  of  the  Yalu  (the  Chinese  number   them   instead   of  giving 
them   distinct  names),  and  two  days  brought  us   to   the   top   of  the 
Lao-ling,  as  the  range   is  called  which   separates   the   Sungati  basin 
from  the  Yalu.      The  pass  was  3000  feet  high,  and  on  the  far  side  we 
came  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Tang  Ho,  a  fine  affluent  of  tho  Sun  gar  i. 
The  path  here,  and  indeed  all  the  time  we  were  in  the  mountains,  was 
very  narrow,  and  in  places  difficult.     Occasionally  it  passed  along  hill- 
faces  where  the  earth  had  fallen  away  in  a  landslip,  and  it  looked  as 
if  tho  next  step  would  bring  the  whole  hill-side  down  together.     At 
pther  times,  torrents  of  sufficient  depth  and  violence  to  sweei>  a  mule 
its  legs,  had  to  be  crossed  fifteen  or  twenty  times  in  a  morning; 
but  these   were  trifles   compared   with  the  swamps.      Frequently  we 
have    had    half   the   mules   down   at    once,  rolling   their    packs   and 
themselves   in   the    mud.      While    all    hands    were   turned  to   assist 
tho  first  that  fell,  the  others  would  feel  themselves  getting  bogged, 
and  when   struggling   to   get    free  would  tumble   themselves   in    the 
mire.      The    good    temper   and    patience    of  the   mule  drivers,  how- 
ever, were  quite  imperturbable,  and  we  always  got  tlirough  somehow. 
Tho  only  real  accident  we  bad  was  caused  by  the  ground  giving  way 
under  a  mule,  and  tumbling  it  and  one  of   the  men  into  a  swollen 
river.       The   man    was    a    good    deal    hurt,   but   he    recovered,   and 
only   a   few  stores   were  damaged.     Constantly    we   had    to    halt   in 
narrow  places  while  the  path  was  being  enlarged  %vith  axe,  pickaxe, 
or  sjiade  to  enable  tho  mules  to  get  along  at  all.     One  very  hot  day  a 
mule,  carrying  a  great  deal  of  silver,  got  tired  of  waiting,  and  plunged 
into  the  swoOen  Y'alu,  there  350  yards  wide,     lie  swam  some  distance 
from  the  shore,  but   fortunately  returned,  and  the   pack,   which  was, 
after  Chinese  fashion,  merely  slung  across   the   mule's  back  and  not 
fastened  in  any  way,  tumbled  off  in  shallow  water;  a  few  yardi  further 
out,  and  our  loss  would  have  been  considerable. 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURIA.  641 

The  fourth  day  from  Man-erh  Shan  brought  us  to  the  main  stream 
of  the  Sungari,  at  its  junction  with  the  Tang  Ho.  We  were  now 
within  the  precincts  of  the  Long  White  Mountains.  In  theory  they 
are  supposed  to  be  sacred  to  the  ancestors  of  the  reigning  dynasty, 
and  it  is  sacrilege  to  trespass  in  them.  Only  a  few  months  ago 
the  official  Peking  Gazette  published  a  report  from  the  Governor 
of  Kirin,  that  in  obedience  to  standing  orders  he  had  carefully 
searched  all  the  ravines  in  the  Ch*ang-pai  Shan  to  see  if  any  wicked 
people  were  seeking  for  ginseng,  and  he  had  found  the  country  quite 
quiet  and  free  from  intruders.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  mandarins 
never  dream  of  going  into  the  mountains,  and  settlements  are  being 
founded  rapidly.  The  colonists  form  themselves  into  associations  or 
guilds,  with  presidents,  vice-presidents,  and  councils,  who  legislate  for 
the  community,  and  exercise  powers  of  life  and  death.  The  existence 
of  these  guilds  is  known  to  the  authorities  of  Kirin,  who  occasionally 
call  on  them,  and  not  unsuccessfully,  for  assistance  in  hunting  robbers ; 
yet  theoretically,  as  I  have  said,  they  have  no  existence  before  the 
law.  Some  items  in  their  legislation  are  peculiar,  but  practicaL  One 
proclamation  which  we  saw  warned  people  not  to  harbour  certain  bad 
characters,  whose  names  were  given.  A  second  forbade  Koreans  to  fish. 
The  Koreans,  be  it  noted,  are  employed  in  large  numbers  as  agricultural 
labourers  by  the  settlers,  who  want  them,  so  they  said,  to  labour  in  the 
fields,  and  not  waste  their  time  in  sport.  A  third  was  for  regulating 
the  trade  in  ginseng,  and  forbade  any  person  buying  or  selling  it  before 
a  certain  date.  The  penalty  for  transgression  of  that  law  is,  in  the  case  of 
a  rich  person,  a  fine  to  the  guild  of  one  pound  of  rice  (a  luxury  in  the 
hills),  ten  taels  in  money,  and  two  pigs,  weighing  at  least  seventy-five 
pounds  each.  If  the  ofiender  be  an  outsider,  and  therefore  moneyless  and 
unable  to  pay  the  fine,  he  is  to  be  beaten  to  death  with  sticks.  This  law 
was  for  the  protection  of  zealous  ginseng  seekers,  who  sought  the  more 
remote  valleys,  and  occasionally  found  the  market  forestalled  by  hunters 
returning  before  the  season  was  fairly  over.  The  guilds  are  most 
efficient  institutions,  and  the  only  place  within  Manchuria  where 
life  and  property  may  be  said  to  be  really  secure  is  within  their  limits ; 
although,  from  the  configuration  of  the  country  and  the  vast  area  of 
forests  with  which  it  is  covered,  robbers  would,  under  ordinary  cir- 
cumstances, find  there  a  safe  refuge. 

It  was  now  time  to  search  for  the  snowy  peaks,  which,  we  under- 
stood from  the  map  attached  to  the  Bev.  Alexander  Williamson's  book, 
•  Journeys  in  North  China,'  from  Mr.  Bavenstein,  and  other  sources,  must 
be  in  the  neighbourhood — snowy  peaks  from  10,000  to  12,000  feet  high* 
Alas,  the  vice-president  of  the  guild  told  us  that  there  was  not  such  a 
thing  in  Manchuria.  There  was,  however,  he  said,  a  very  celebrated 
mountain,  the  Lao-pai  Shan,  or  Old  White  Mountain  proper,  about  ten 
or  twelve  days'  march  off,  frx)m  the  top  of  which  sprang  the  Talu,  the 


542 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURIA* 


T*iiiiien,  and  the  Sungaru  If  we  liked  ho  could  guide  us  theroi  but  tlie 
road  was  very  clifficult  to  find,  and  1ir  must  conio  himself.  Wo  accepted 
hia  ofler,  loaded  two  mules  veiy  ligLtly  and  started,  taking  only  one 
Bervant  with  us,  and  a  boy  to  lead  tlio  mules  over  tlio  liad  bits.  The 
track  led  over  a  BUcceseion  of  ranges  covered  witli  forest,  so  dense  and 
so  continuous,  that  it  was  quite  a  relief  when  we  came  to  tb©  Sungari 
or  one  of  ita  affluents  and  got  a  breath  of  fiesh  air.  At  intervals  of  15 
miles  would  be  found  the  hut  of  a  ginseng  cultivator,  or  a  hmiter  of  deer- 
borus  and  sable.  Two  such  were  situated  iu  the  craters  of  ancient  vol- 
canoes^ which  time  has  now  clothed  as  thickly  with  trees  as  any  part  of 
the  region.  We  found  the  mountaineers  exccediugly  hospitable  and 
friendly t  as  real  sportsmen  invariably  are,  though  their  huts  were  so  small 
that  we  found  it  a  tight  fit  at  nighf*  We  were  obliged  to  sleep  cheek 
by  jowl  with  them  on  the  little  kang  or  brick  platform,  which  is  heated 
by  the  fire  that  cooka  the  food,  and  serves  the  purpoae  of  stove,  drawiog- 
room,  dining-room,  and  bed-room,  Keally,  sometimes  wo  were  packed 
just  like  sardines,  but  unless  a  Chinaman  got  his  foot  in  one's  eye,  as 
happened  sometimes,  we  slept  peaceably  enough.  The  weather  was 
hot,  and  occasionally  w*e  had  to  carry  the  mules'  loads  for  them  over  bad 
places,  but  we  found  plenty  of  wild  strawberries,  and  a  kmd  of  delicious 
bleaberry  or  barberry  growing  in  great  quantities,  which  was  very 
refreshing. 

The  fifth  day  after  leaving  T*ang-bo-ko  we  had  to  dispense  with  the 
mules,  as  the  bogs  beyond  were  absolutely  i  in  passable  for  any  beast  of 
burden  whatsoever.  Wo  reduced  our  necessaries  as  much  as  possible, 
and  the  rest  we  made  up  into  packs,  which  we  carried  ourselves  with  the 
aid  of  a  hunter,  a  very  good  fellow,  who  volunteered  to  come  and  help 
us.  It  may  be  thought  w^o  should  have  brought  more  attendants,  but 
the  Imts  would  not  have  held  them,  and  besides,  supplies  were  so  scanty 
in  the  hills,  that,  although  the  hunters  were  extremely  generous  in 
giving  UB  dried  deer's  flesh  and  other  trifles,  a  larger  party  oonld 
not  possibly  have  obtained  food.  We  now  came  to  a  swamp  pure 
and  simple,  and  boggy  glens,  where  first  we  &aw  extonBivo  gioves 
of  larch.  At  last,  on  the  ninth  day  after  leaving  the  guild,  we  began  the 
ascent  of  the  ]ong-wished-for  mountain.  The  lower  slopes  are  covered 
with  forests  of  birch  and  pine,  but  these  gradually  grew  less  dense,  until 
we  emerged  on  a  most  delightful  grassy  plateau  dotted  with  trees.  To  us 
it  was  like  being  transported  into  the  Garden  of  Eden.  The  forests  had 
certainly  not  been  devtud  of  flowers,  and  some  fine  turn-cap  lilies  and 
orchids  and  bluebells  had  lit  up  their  gloom  ;  biit  now  we  came  upon  rich, 
open  meadows,  bright  w^ith  flowers  of  every  imaginable  colour,  where 
sheets  of  blue  iris,  great  scarlet  tiger-lilies,  sweet-scented  yellow  day- 
liliea,  huge  orange  buttercups,  or  purple  monkshood  delighted  the  eye. 
And  beyond  were  bits  of  park-like  country,  'with  groups  of  spruce  and 
fir  beautifully  dotted  about,  the  soil  covered  with  short  mossy  grass,  and 


I 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURIA.  648 

spangled  with  great  masses  of  deep  blue  gentian,  columbines  of  every  shade 
of  mauve  or  buflf,  orchids  white  and  red,  and  many  other  flowers.  One 
gem  of  a  meadow  was  sprinkled  with  azaleas  bearing  small  yellow  flowers, 
which  looked  at  a  distance  like  gorse*  Now  for  the  first  time,  and  up 
above  us  through  the  trees,  we  could  see  the  ragged  needle-like  peaks  of 
the  Old  White  Mountain.  As  we  marched  along  the  plateau  we  heard 
the  sound  of  subterranean  streams  rushing  madly  underground,  and  in 
one  place  we  crossed  a  deep  gully  by  a  natural  bridge,  the  banks  of 
which  approached  so  closely  that  we  could  almost  jump  across,  while 
peering  over  we  could  see  the  mountain  torrent  roaring  far  below  like  the 
river  Beas  at  its  source.  It  would  be  very  easy  for  a  careless  walker  to 
slip  into  one  of  these  hidden  watercourses  and  lose  his  life. 

Finally  we  arrived  at  a  cottage  called  T*ang-shan,  at  the  base  of  a 
grassy  hiU  which  slopes  down  from  the  final  heights  of  the  Pai  Shan.  A 
short  distance  there  are  two  splendid  cascades  not  very  far  apart,  each 
about  150  feet  high,  one  of  which  is  called  by  the  natives  the  real  source 
of  the  Sungari  proper.  A  mile  or  two  away  it  forms  a  bum  about  ten 
yards  across,  on  the  edge  of  which  is  a  fine  hot  spring,  142°  Fahr. 
The  evening  we  arrived  we  climbed  a  hill  700  feet  above  the  plateau, 
from  which  we  had  a  grand  view  of  the  peaks.  From  this  point  of 
view  there  appeared  in  sight  two  sharp  peaks,  with  a  saddle  between 
them,  and  the  whole  steep  side  below  was  shining  white,  but  not 
with  snow,  for  there  were  only  a  few  patches  of  it  to  be  seen  in  clefts, 
but  of  wet,  disintegrated  pumice  stone,  large  lumps  of  which  we  bad 
noticed  on  the  banks  of  the  Sungari  on  our  road  through  the  forests. 
The  westerly  peak  looks  slightly  the  higher,  but  after  ascending  the 
saddle  we  found  it  was  lower  than  that  on  the  east,  which  is  a  splendid 
object — bold,  sharp,  and  jagged.  Beyond  it,  further  to  the  east,  on  a 
rock-broken  sky-line,  stands  another  conspicuous  pinnacle,  shaped  like  a 
serpent's  tooth,  and  from  there  the  shoulder  of  the  mountain  slopes 
gradually  down  till  it  reaches  the  plateau  where  the  hut  is  situated. 

The  first  day  of  our  halt  it  rained,  and  we  made  the  ascent  the  next* 
We  climbed  the  slope  behind  the  house,  up  to  our  waists  in  luxuriant  wet 
grass,  full  of  tiger-lilies  and  other  gorgeous  flowers,  and  across  a  stretch 
of  moorland  perhaps  two  or  three  miles  broad,  covered  with  a  dwarf  white 
rhododendron,  a  lovely  little  pink  flower  like  an  azalea,  a  pink  heath, 
and  other  flowers.  Then  we  commenced  the  slope  leading  up  to  the 
saddle.  Even  here,  on  the  naked  pumice,  were  clumps  of  wild  yellow 
poppies,  dwarf  saxifrage,  a  vetch,  and  other  botanical  treasures.  It  was 
a  steep  climb,  reminding  one  somewhat  of  Vesuvius,  except  that  the  rain 
had  consolidated  the  loose  pumice.  At  last  we  got  to  the  top  and  looked 
over  the  edge,  and  lo  !  at  the  bottom  of  a  crater  on  whose  brink  we  were 
standing,  about  350  feet  below  us,  we  saw  a  beautiful  lake,  its  colour  of 
the  deepest,  most  pellucid  blue,  and  though  the  wind  was  howling  above, 
its  surface  as  still  as  Lake  Leman,  reflecting  the  crown  of  fantastic  peaks 


541 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURIA. 


with  Tvbich  tlio  rugged  top  of  tlie  rnountaiii  was  adorned.  It  was  indeed 
a  superb  epectaclo.  We  judged  the  lake  to  bo  about  1^  mile  broad,  and 
six  or  seven  miles  in  circumfereuco. 

After  enjoying  the  view  for  some  time  Mr.  Fnlford  and  I  attempted  to 
descend  the  crater.  The  hunter  guide  refused  to  accompany  ue,  because 
ho  said  it  was  too  steep,  but  he  pointed  out  a  place  down  which,  ho 
eaid,  deer  occasionally  found  their  way  to  feed  on  tho  grass,  of  which 
there  was  a  narrow  fringe  in  one  place  between  the  water  and  the  base 
of  tho  cliff.  Wo  succeeded  in  getting  down  to  about  60  feet  fttrm 
the  bottom,  through  loose  pumice  and  stones,  but  we  wero  suddenly 
stopped  by  finding  that,  under  the  action  of  water,  tho  cliff  which  we 
were  dcBcending  had  crumbled  a"way,  and  left  eome  15  or  20  feet  of 
sheer  perpendicular  rock  in  front  of  us.  If  wo  bad  had  a  rope  we  miglit 
have  got  to  tho  bottom  without  difficulty,  but  tho  descent  was  too  risky 
without  it,  as  the  friable  stone  and  the  pumico  it  was  embedded  in  gave 
no  secure  foothold,  Mr,  Younghiisband,  in  tho  meanwhile,  had  been 
boiling  his  tliermomcter  in  a  cleft  lilled  with  snow,  tho  only  place  where 
he  oould  escape  from  the  wind,  and  then  ho  commenced  the  ascent  of 
the  eastern  peak.  It  was  very  steep,  and  not  unaccompanied  with 
danger,  as  tho  foothold  was  very  uncertain,  and  had  he  slipped  he  might 
have  rolled  over  tho  edge  and  dropped  five  or  six  hundred  feet  into  tho 
lake.  However,  he  succeeded  better  than  w^e  did,  and  got  up  to  tho  highest 
pinnacle,  and  crawled  out  to  tho  very  edge  of  a  peak  of  rock  which 
projects  over  tho  lake  like  a  bowsprit,  and  waved  his  hat  to  us.  From 
below  it  looked  as  if  nothing  but  an  eagle  could  find  a  resting-place  in 
such  a  position.  He  calculated  tho  height  to  bo  7525  feet,  but  alio  win  g^ 
for  an  error  in  tho  reading  of  tlie  boiling-point  thermometer,  w^hich  we 
subsequently  discovered^  500  feet  must  be  added  on  to  that.  Tho  view, 
even  from  the  saddle,  of  the  surrounding  country,  was  very  fine.  Far 
away  in  Korea  we  could  see  forest*clad  peaks  which  looked  aa  if  they 
might  almost  bo  as  high  as  the  Pai-shan,  but  all  tho  hills  in  tho  imme- 
diate neighbourhood,  including  the  Lau-ling,  that  is  the  range  we  crossed 
after  leaving  tho  Yalu,  seemed  pigmies  in  comparison.  So  farewell  to 
the  idea  of  snowy  peaks  10,000  or  12,000  feet  high. 

From  tho  north  end  of  the  lake  there  issues  a  small  stream  which  is 
the  source  of  the  Erh-tao-cliiang,  or  Second  river,  tho  eastern  branch 
of  tho  iSungari,  whoso  confluence  with  tho  main  stream  we  visited  a 
few  weeks  later.  The  source  of  the  Yalu  was  said  to  be  about  ten  miles 
off,  that  of  the  Tumen  thirty,  but  we  could  not  visit  them,  as  our  Bupplies 
wero  almost  at  an  end,  and  had  it  not  been  for  Mr,  Fulford*8  skill  in 
shooting  partridges  we  should  have  had  very  little  to  eat.  Whenever 
we  heard  a  shot  fired  wo  used  to  ask  if  it  was  an  old  one  or  a  young 
one,  the  old  ones  had  so  much  more  meat  upon  tliem.  Tho  birds  used, 
when  flushed,  to  fly  up  into  tho  trees,  and  it  required  a  very  quick  e^'o 
to  distinguish  them  in  the  boughs. 


A  JOURKEY  IN  MANCHURU.  545 

The  journey  to  the  Pai-shan  would  have  been  perfectly  enjoyable 
had  it  not  been  for  a  plague  which  former  writers  on  Manchuria  have 
alluded  to— I  mean  the  midges  and  gadflies.  The  misery  caused  by 
insect  pests  is  a  stock  theme  with  travellers,  too  common  perhaps  to  call 
for  sympathy.  And  yet  if  there  be  a  time  when  life  is  not  worth 
living  I  should  say  it  was  summer  in  the  forests  of  Manchuria.  The 
midges  are  worst  at  night  and  in  the  early  morning,  though  they 
by  no  means  object  to  the  middle  of  the  day  also.  Clouds  of  them  almost 
darken  the  air,  and  they  bite  like  fiends.  Mules  and  cattle  are  picketed 
at  night  to  the  leeward  of  fires,  so  that  the  smoke  may  protect  them. 
At  sundown  all  the  doors  and  the  windows  of  houses  are  shut  tight, 
though  the  smoke  and  summer  heat  are  stifling.  Often  a  fire  must 
be  kindled  as  well  on  the  floor,  to  fill  the  house  with  smoke,  and  when 
full  of  Chinamen  also  the  atmosphere  in  the  early  morning  can  be 
better  imagined  than  described.  Men  at  the  plough  carry  circlets  of 
iron  on  their  heads,  on  which  are  stuck  pieces  of  burning  touchwood, 
and  pieces  of  it  in  their  hands  as  well.  Fortunately  we  had  provided 
ourselves  with  green  gauze  veils,  which  were  invaluable  when  we  went 
to  bed  or  when  marching  in  the  early  morning,  and  at  meals  we  enveloped 
ourselves  with  smoke.  The  gadflies  were  less  annoyance  to  ourselves 
than  to  our  beasts,  as  they  invariably  selected  any  that  were  sick  or 
tired.  They  did  not  appear  till  seven  or  eight  in  the  morning,  and 
retired  at  sundown,  so  by  marching  before  daylight  a  little  respite  was 
obtained  from  their  attacks.  They  were  huge  fat  insects,  and  at  this 
distance  of  time  they  seem  to  me  to  have  been  as  big  as  stag-beetles. 
There  are  several  kinds,  one  striped  yellow  and  black,  like  a  giant 
wasp ;  and  the  rapidity  with  which  they  can  pierce  a  mule's  tough  hide 
is  inconceivable.  In  a  few  moments,  before  one  could  go  to  its  assistance, 
I  have  seen  a  wretched  beast  streaming  with  blood.  Fortunately  the 
gadflies  are  very  stupid  and  slow,  and  easily  killed.  I  remember  once 
Mr.  Fulford  and  I  had  to  stand  over  a  mule  which  had  tumbled  several 
times  down  hill,  and  was  quite  exhausted,  smashing  the  gadflies  as  they 
settled  with  slabs  of  wood,  until  night  came  on.  I  have  no  idea  how 
many  hundreds  we  killed,  but  we  saved  that  mule's  life.  They  did  not 
often  bite  men,  but  occasionally  a  busy,  curious,  thirsty  gadfly  would  try 
how  a  "  foreign  devil's "  blood  tasted,  and  then  that  "  foreign  devil " 
jumped  and  made  remarks. 

We  had  intended  to  shoot  big  game  in  the  hills,  but  we  soon  found 
that  sport  and  travel  were  not  compatible.  We  saw  tiger's  "  pugs,"  but 
the  jungle  was  far  too  thick  to  go  after  them.  The  hunters  trap  them  in 
cages,  though  some,  as  in  India,  worship  them  and  will  not  hear  of  their 
being  disturbed.  The  preparations  for  the  sable  season  were  just  com- 
mencing. When  the  snow  is  on  the  ground,  the  sable,  which  is  a 
species  of  weasel,  likes  travelling  along  the  trunks  of  dead  trees  to  keep 
his  feet  dry.    So  the  hunters  choose  fallen  timber  or  fell  trees  for  the 


54e 


T  IN  MAXCHURIA. 


purpofie,  and  drive  a  row  of  sharp  pegs  on  each  side  along  the  top,  the  pegs 
Ijeing  a  few  inches  apart,  so  as  to  make  a  kind  of  little  avenue  for  the  salile 
to  pass  through.  In  the  middle  ie  placed  an  ordinary  fi^ire  of  four  trap 
from  the  t€>p  of  which  a  long  sapling  is  suspended,  which  falls  and  crushes 
the  unfortunate  animal.  The  doer  are  caught  in  pitfalls,  lx>autifullj 
hidden,  into  one  of  which  Mr,  Fulford  tumbled  one  day.  It  was  16  or 
18  feet  deep,  aod  ho  might  have  lieen  seriously  hurt.  The  black  bears, 
exactly  the  same  beast  in  ajipearance  aa  that  of  Kafihrair,  do  a  great 
deal  of  damage  by  pulling  the  deer  out  of  the  pitfalls  and  devouring 
them.  We  found  ono  in  the  act  and  article  of  finishing  a  magnificent 
stag,  with  ten  points  to  his  antlers.  It  is  a  very  serious  matter  when 
the  bear  munches  up  a  pair  of  horns  worth  30/.  or  40/.  Unfortunately, 
when  we  commenced  carrying  our  kit,  we  had  to  leave  our  rifles  behind, 
or  we  might  have  had  good  bear-shooting. 

A  good  many  of  the  names  io  tbis  region  are  Korean,  and  the  hunters 
told  us  that  it  is  not  many  years  since  the  last  Koreans  were  ejected, 
not  without  bloodshed. 

After  our  return  we  looked  at  Da  Haldo  and  found  the  following 
account  of  the  Fai  Shan,  which,  it  will  bo  seen,  our  visit  corroborates 
almost  exactly.     I  quoto  the  English  translation  : — 

**  The  mountain  from  wbich  the  Suogari  derives  its  source  is  likewise  the  most 
famous  iQ  Eastern  Tartary.  It  lies  mocli  liigher  than  the  rest,  and  may  he  seen  at 
a  vast  distance.  One  part  of  it  l&  covered  with  wood,  and  consists  only  in  a  «oft 
gravel  wlilcli  looks  always  wliite.  Therefore  it  is  not  the  «eow  that  whitens  it,  as 
the  Chinese  imagine,  fur  there  never  is  any,  at  least  in  summer.  On  the  top  are  five 
rocks,  which  look  like  so  many  broken  pyramids  exceeding  high,  and  arc  always  wet 
with  the  peri)etual  fogs  and  vapours  tlmt  condense  around  them,  and  in  the  middle 
they  enclose  a  deep  lake,  whence  issues  a  fine  fountain  that  forms  the  Sungari.  The 
Hanchus,  to  make  the  mountain  a  til  I  more  wonderful,  liave  a  curiona  saying  that  it 
is  the  mother  of  their  great  rivers,  the  Toumen,  the  Yaloo  Oola,  and  Cihou  Oula, 
which  liaviDg  coasted  the  borders  of  Corea,  unite  and  fall  into  the  fiea  of  that 
kingdom. 

**  But  thm  is  not  exactly  true,  as  may  be  seen  in  the  map,  nor  can  the  origin  of 
the  rivers  be  attributed  to  the  Chang  Pei  Shan,  unless  you  include  the  neighbouring 
moun tains  that  separate  the  kingdom  of  Corea  from  the  ancient  city  of  the 
Manchus»" 


This  description  is  quoted  from  P^re  Eegia,  who  with  Peres  Jartoux 
and  Fridelli  surveyed  jilanchuria  for  tho  Emperor  Kanghi  in  the  year 
1709.  It  is  difficult  to  say  whether  it  has  been  written  by  an  eye-witness. 
The  three  Fathers  began  their  work  on  tho  8th  of  May,  and  went  to 
survey  Pechili  on  the  10th  of  Uec^mber,  and  I  am  inclined  to  think  they 
could  not  have  bad  time  in  the  interval  to  go  to  this  remote  mountain  as 
well  as  to  visit  tracts  so  widely  apart  as  the  countrj^  to  the  north  of  the 
Amur,  the  Usuri,  and  Hunchun,  wbich  tbcy  mention  doing.  Certainly 
they  could  not,  if  they  travelled  together,  as  some  expressions  used 
would  imply  they  did.     They  necessarily  had  to  trust  much  to  hearsay, 


A  J0URNE7  IN  MANCHURIA.  547 

and  it  is  scarcely  accurate  to  describe  the  circle  of  peaks  as  "  five  broken 
rocks."  Moreover,  the  lake  and  mountain  are  not  specifically  marked  on 
their  map.  Still,  whether  the  old  Jesuits  ever  looked  down  on  the  blue 
waters  of  the  Lung  Wang  Tan  or  not,  we  may  be  sure  it  was  not  the 
fault  of  their  want  of  enterprise,  and  to  them  belongs  the  honour  of  first 
revealing  the  existence  of  the  lake  to  Europe.  I  may  add  that  the 
mountaineers  talked  of  a  boundary  pillar  not  far  away  on  the  Korean 
frontier,  dating  from  the  fifty- first  year  of  the  emperor  Kanghi  (1711), 
just  two  years  after  the  survey  was  finished,  and  that  Pere  Begis 
alludes  to  this  frontier  as  if  it  had  been  duly  demarcated. 

We  returned  to  T*ang  Ho  Kou,  the  confluence  of  the  river  Tang  with 
the  Sungari  and  the  head-quarters  of  the  guild,  by  the  way  we  came, 
without  adventure,  unless  I  may  count  a  snake  story  as  one.  Our  fol- 
lowers and  ourselves  had  been  sleeping  in  a  deserted  Korean  hut,  and  on 
getting  up  in  the  morning,  one  of  us  saw  the  head  of  a  snake  peering  out 
between  a  bit  of  matting  on  which  we  had  been  sleeping  and  the  wall. 
We  lifted  up  the  matting,  and  there  lay  four  big  brown  adders.  They 
were  sluggish  brutes,  and  made  no  attempt  to  escape,  so  we  killed  them, 
and  found  all  of  them  had  poison  fangs  in  their  jaws.  If  they  had 
crawled  over  us  in  the  night,  one  of  us  might  easily  have  been  bitten. 

By  this  time  it  was  raining  nearly  every  day,  and  the  rivers  were  in 
high  flood.  The  vice-president  of  the  guild,  Mr.  Yen,  told  us  it  was 
impossible  to  find  our  way  to  the  valley  of  the  T*um6n  by  the  route  we 
had  contemplated  taking.  I  believe  myself  if  supplies  had  been  avail- 
able we  might  just  have  succeeded  in  doing  it,  but  the  guild  being  short 
themselves  would  give  us  none,  and  there  was  a  risk  of  our  being 
caught  between  two  rivei*s  and  starved.  Mr.  Yen  then  offered,  if  we 
liked,  to  guide  us  through  the  mountains  to  Kirin^  and  as  the  season  was 
advancing  we  thought  it  best  to  accept  bis  offer  and  go  to  Tsitsihar. 
The  track  was  difficult  both  to  find  and  to  follow,  and  I  am  bound 
to  say  that  Mr.  Yen  proved  himself  a  good  guide.  We  crossed,  as  before, 
a  seemingly  endless  succession  of  forest-clad  hills  and  swampy  valleys, 
with  occasional  settlements.  One  valley  in  particular,  that  of  the  Sung 
Ho,  not  far  from  our  starting-point,  was  several  miles  across,  covered  with 
the  most  magnificent  crops  of  millet  and  Indian  com  I  ever  saw :  but 
places  like  this  were  oases  in  the  desert.  Three  of  the  rivers  could  only 
be  crossed  in  dug-outs,  the  owners  of  which  tried  to  extort  extravagant 
sums  for  the  accommodation.  In  one  instance  we  evaded  the  enemy  by 
taking  a  circuitous  and  very  difficult  route  over  a  ridge,  from  which  we 
had  a  final  and  magnificent  view  of  the  peaks  of  the  Pai  Shan,  shining 
sixty  or  seventy  miles  away  on  the  horizon.  At  another  place  we  agreed 
with  one  of  the  people  for  a  handsome  donation,  but  when  our  baggage 
was  across,  another  man  tried  to  stop  us,  and  threatened  to  send  our 
things  back  again  if  we  did  not  give  more.  He  soon  saw,  however,  that 
we  would  stand  no  nonsense,  and  we  went  on  unmolested. 

No.  IX.— Sept.  1887.]  2  b 


SiB 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURIA. 


After  a  week's  journey  we  came  upon  the  Sungari  again  at  a  place 
called  Yii-si  Hci  Kou-tzu,  a  short  distance  from  the  place  where  the 
jBrh-tao  Chiang,  or  t-astern  branch,  joins  it*  It  is  here  a  splendid  stroam, 
OO  yards  broad,  and  the  scenery  at  the  conflnence  is  grand.  The 
"Erh-tao  Chiang  mshee  down  a  narrow  ravine  with  lofty  precipitons 
sides,  crowned  with  fore  ate,  and  a  tall  cliff,  or  rather  rock — for  it  is  an 
isolated  mass  800  feet  high — hangs  frowning  over  the  meeting  of  the 
waters.  The  Erh-tao  Chiang,  though  shown  in  the  maps  as  the  main 
stream  of  the  river,  is,  aa  its  name  implies,  the  second.  It  ia  not  very 
mncL  more  than  half  as  broad  as  its  fellow,  though  veiy  deep.  Beyond 
this  point  we  came  on  extensive  gold-wafihings,  where  we  were  warned 
to  look  to  our  guuH,  as  the  diggings  were  situated  in  a  kind  of  no-man's 
land,  out  of  tbo  jurisdiction  and  protection  both  of  mandarin  and  guild, 
and  upwards  of  three  hundrt^d  outlaws  had  assembled  there  to  wash  the 
sand  for  gold.  However,  though  we  spent  a  night  qui  to  close  to  them, 
they  did  us  no  harm. 

At  last  we  crossed  the  Hwa-pi  Ho,  tbe  Khnifa  river  of  the  maps,  one 
of  the  finest  tributaries  of  the  Sungari,  Beyond  this  it  was  compara- 
tively plain  sailing.  The  country  was  settled,  and  the  roads  wide  enough 
for  carts.  We  emerged  from  the  jierpi'tual  gWm  of  the  forests  and  the 
everlasting  chop,  chop,  of  the  axe  clearing  away  trees  from  the  path  was 
heard  no  more.  One  nnmistakable  sign  soon  announced  that  we  were 
out  of  the  safe  protection  of  the  guilds.  All  important  shops  had  high 
walls  and  small  fortifications  to  protect  them  against  brigands,  and  wo 
crossed  one  low  pass,  called  the  Ching-ling,  which  was  a  favourite  haunt 
for  these  gt^ntry.  Not  very  long  before  throe  carts  laden  with  valual^les 
—opium,  deer-horns,  and  the  like — were  looted  in  open  day,  and  nine 
persona  in  charge  of  them  were  murdered. 

During  our  progress  from  Mukden  to  Kirin  we  made  a  collection  of 
flowers  and  plants,  the  preservation  of  which  was  a  source  of  some 
difficulty  and  anxiety,  owing  to  the  constant  min.  The  Director  of  the 
Hoyal  Botanic  Gardens,  Kow,  has  kindly  favoured  me  with  the  following 
note  upon  it ; — 

"It  comprises  upwards  of  500  species  of  Flowering  Plants,  32  Ferus,  and 
10  Lycopods  and  Horeetaila  (Equisetuni).  Unlike  the  vegetation  of  the  mountains 
of  the  Poking  region  and  the  neiglibonring  provinces,  this  specimen  of  the  flora  of 
Mimchuria  contains  a  very  small  endemic  element^  and  less  than  half  a  dozen 
absolute  novelties.  Among  the  genera  characteristic  of  the  flora  of  North-eastern 
Asia,  Sttmoccdium,  Ehuiherococcus^  Plah^codon^  Olossocomia^  MeiapJexiSf  Brachy- 
hoiry%  Siphonostegiat  and  Funkia  are  represented ;  but  with  few  other  exceptions 
the  genera  are  dispersed  all  round  the  north  temperate  zone,  and  many  of  these  have 
a  very  much  wider  range*  In  ehort,  it  is  a  part  of  the  same  floral  region  to  which 
the  Britiflli  Islands  belong,  and  no  fewer  than  160  of  tbe  fipecies  collected,  or  nearly 
a  third  of  the  total,  are  identical  with  the  species  inhabiting  these  inlands.  These 
Bpecies  ara  almost  all  herbs  or  very  dwarf  alpine  Bhmbs.  As  in  temperate  North- 
eastern Asia  generally,  the  proportion  of  arboreous  and  ahnibby  species  to  herbaceous 


I 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURIA.  649 

species  is  relatively  high.  They  include  three  limes,  six  maples,  one  i^ear,  one 
mountain  ash,  one  cherry,  one  bird-cherry,  two  thorns,  one  elder,  one  dogwood,  one 
ash,  five  conifers,  three  willows,  two  poplars,  two  hazels,  and  one  oak. 

"The  predominant  Natural  orders  are: — GompositSB,  65  species;  Kosaceas, 
30  species;  Liliacea;,  28  species;  Ranunculaceae,  27  species;  and  Leguminosas, 
20  species;  and  conspicuous  genera  are  Aquilegia  (columbine),  Poeoniaf  Dianthus^ 
PctentUla,  Lathyrus^  Spiraea,  Aster,  Artemisia,  Senecio,  Samstirea,  Adenophora, 
{Campanula),  Polygonum  (knotgrass),  Lilium,  Sec 

"  Otherwise  noteworthy  plants : — Papaver  cdpinum,  Vitis  vini/era^  Tri/olium 
lupinaster,  Saxifraga  (a  new  species  with  large  peltate  leaves),  LinnoBa  horealis, 
Phyllodoce  ccerulea,  Utrictdaria  intermedia,  Pinus  mandshurica^  Lilium  (various 
species)." 

A  snpplementary  collection  was  also  made  in  tho  autumn  on  the 
Mongolian  steppes.  We  also  preserved  a  small  number  of  bird-skins, 
though  the  rapidity  of  our  movements  and  the  obstacles  we  met  with 
greatly  impeded  our  ornithological  e£forts.  Dr.  Bowdler  Sharpe,  of  the 
British  Museum,  has  obliged  me  with  the  following  observations  on  our 
specimens : — 

The  collection  comprises  tho  following  interesting  species :  —  Tetrad  tetrix^ 
Lanius  sphenocercus,  Otis  Byhowshii,  Acredula  caudata,  Sitta  villosa,  Turdiit 
naumanni,  Perdix  barhata,  Emberiza  castaneiceps,  Ninox  scuttdata,  and  Accentor 
erythropygius,    A  black  woodpecker  is  identical  with  a  species  found  in  the  TyroL 

A  week's  journey  from  the  Hwa-pi  Ho  brought  us  to  Kirin.  It  is 
probably  the  filthiest  town  in  China,  which  is  saying  a  good  deal,  and 
wo  were  detained  by  the  rain  for  three  weeks  in  the  filthiest  inn  in  the 
place.  Our  room  was  situated  on  one  side  of  a  large  quadrangle,  which^ 
during  our  stay,  was  one  lake  of  mixed  mud  and  sewage,  as  a  large  open 
drain  ran  through  the  centre  of  it. 

Tho  situation  of  the  town  is  undeniably  fine.  The  Sungari,  on 
emerging  from  the  hills,  low  spurs  of  whioh  extend  even  beyond 
Kirin,  sweeps  round  from  west  to  east  in  a  great  bend  for  about 
four  miles,  and  then  turns  northward  again.  The  town,  which 
contains,  I  should  estimate,  from  75,000  to  100,000  inhabitants, 
extends  for  about  two  miles  along  this  bend,  so  close  to  the  bank 
that  the  street  along  the  river  front  is  constructed  of  wooden  flooring 
raised  on  piles,  in  many  places  rotten  and  most  unsafe.  A  circle 
of  low  hills  springing  beyond  the  west  end  of  the  town  curves 
right  round  behind  it,  and  so  that  with  the  river  in  front  and  rising 
ground  behind,  it  might  be  made  a  very  strong  place.  The  only 
thing  of  interest  is  the  arsenal,  which  has  recently  been  established 
under  the  management  of  a  gentleman  named  Sung,  who  received  his 
training  under  foreigners  in  the  arsenals  of  Tientsin  and  Shanghai. 
He  was  exceedingly  courteous  and  friendly,  and  not  only  showed  us 
over  the  arsenal,  but  asked  us  to  dinner  twice,  and  feasted  us  like 
princes.    It  was  extremely  inteo^esting  to  see  alaorge  establishment  like 

2  B  2 


550 


A  JOURNEr  IN  MAKCHUHIA. 


the  arsenal  filled  nvlth.  foreign  machmery,  some  German,  and  some 
Engliflli,  witli  boilers  and  engines  and  steam  hanimors,  just  Buch  as  one 
ini^Lt  see  at  Woolwich  or  Elswick,  all  erected  and  managed  by  Chinese 
without  foreign  apsistance  of  any  kiniL  It  would  open  the  eyes  of 
thoso  EnropeauH  who  think  that  Western  nations  have  a  monopoly  of 
mecliamcal  and  adminiefcrative  ability.  And  yon  may  like  to  hoar  the 
Chinese  verdict  on  English^  compared  with  German  machinery.  The 
latter  was  considered  to  work  more  qiiickly  and  did  light  work 
better,  but  tho  English  was  more  solid,  and  could  be  depended  upon  for 
accuracy.  Amongst  other  curiosities,  Mr.  Sung  showed  us  a  machine 
gun  invented,  perhaps  it  would  be  more  correct  to  say  adapted,  by  one 
of  his  foremen  from  a  We^tena  model.  It  wae  so  portable  that  two  men 
eoidd  carry  it  al^ont  and  the  tripod  on  which  it  worked  vdth  the  greatest 
ease.  Wo  %vere  shown  it  at  work^  and  it  can  fire  eightj^  shots  a  minute 
smwjthl}^  and  without  any  syuiptom  of  obstruction.  On  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river  to  the  arsenal  a  powder  factory  has  also  been  put  up, 
in  which  gunpowder  is  being  manufactured  on  tho  most  approved  prin- 
ciples. The  fact  that  one  of  the  first  uses  to  which  the  Chinese  are  putting 
the  mechanical  knowledge  they  learn  from  foreigners  is  the  eonwtruetioii 
of  machines  for  destroj^ng  their  fellow-creatures,  affords  food  for 
reflection. 

At  Eirin  we  changed  our  pack-mules  for  carts  to  get  over  the  ground 
fastxjr,  but  our  start  did  not  augur  well.  The  road  through  tho  great 
northern  gate  of  the  town,  the  capital  of  the  province,  wai?  so  much 
out  of  repair,  that  the  carts  stuck  in  it  for  a  couple  of  hours,  and 
one  was  upset  in  a  lake  of  black  mud.  That,  however,  is  not  an 
uncommon  sight  at  the  entrance  even  of  Pckin.  We  followed  the  left 
bank  of  the  Sungari  for  about  24  miles,  and  tliee  crossed  it  at  a  place 
called  Wudu-kai,  where  stand  the  remains  of  giant  walls,  said  to  be 
those  of  a  city  w^hieh  fiourished  a  thousand  years  ago.  Pero  Verbiest 
went  there  with  the  Emperor  Kanghi  in  1682,  and  it  was  even  then 
described  aa  the  first  city  in  all  the  country,  and  formerly  the  seat  of 
the  Tartar  Emperors. 

Abtmt  twelve  miles  beyond  this  we  crossed  a  fine  stream  120  yards 
wide,  called  the  Shih-ehia-tztj,  which  has  apparently'  escajied  tho 
notice,  I  do  not  know  how,  of  pri-vions  travellers.  Our  onward 
journey  followed  thu  track  taken  by  the  Archimandrite  PaUadius 
in  1870.  As  far  m  Petuna  the  country  was  richly  cultivated,  and 
tho  crops  were  YQry  fine,  principally  tho  tall  millet,  beans,  and  hemp, 
the  last-named  taller  than  I  ever  saw  it  before.  The  rivers  were  still  in 
flood,  and  the  whole  country  at  the  junction  of  the  Sungari  and  the 
Nonni  was  under  water,  forming  a  lake  ten  miles  from  shore  to  shore. 
The  day  wo  arrived  a  storm  came  on,  and  the  ferryman  refused  to  start. 
There  was  no  shelter  on  the  river  bank,  and  we  could  not  get  back,  as 
the  marsh  we  had  just  crossed  was  by  that  time  like  a  sponge  and  quite 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURIA.  551 

impassable ;  so  we  were  in  a  dilemma.  We  tried  sending  one  cart 
back,  but  it  stuck  in  the  mud,  and  took  two  hours  to  extricate. 
Eventually,  after  a  wretched  day  spent  in  the  rain  and  wind,  the 
ferrymen  were  persuaded  to  start,  and  shortly  after  nightfall  we  came 
to  a  tiny  fisherman*s  hut,  on  an  island  in  the  ocean,  the  owners  of 
which  had  pity  on  us,  and  took  us  in.  I  regret,  however,  that  the  ex- 
posure gave  Mr.  Fulford  an  illness  from  which  he  did  not  recover  for 
some  time. 

Beyond  the  Sungari  we  came  for  the  first  time  on  the  Mongolian 
steppes.  Great  parts  of  the  country  were  inundated,  and  lakes  were  to 
be  seen  on  either  hand,  stretching  far  away  into  the  distance.  We  could 
not,  therefore,  follow  the  Archimandrite's  route  exactly,  but  made 
numerous  diversions.  The  steppe  is  so  bare,  that  a  single  tree  forms  a 
conspicuous  object  for  many  miles  round.  At  intervals  there  are  small 
villages  adjoining  the  Government  postal  stations,  and  occasionally 
some  Mongol  houses  are  to  be  met  with. 

In  this  region  the  Mongols  have  almost  entirely  abandoned  their 
nomad  life,  and  we  only  saw  two  youarts,  both  of  them  in  course  of 
construction.  Great  herds  of  ponies  and  sheep  were  grazing  on  the 
plain,  and  occasionally  there  was  a  little  cultivation,  but  the  Mongol  is 
a  bad  farmer,  and  the  crops  were  very  poor.  We  were  thankful,  how- 
ever, to  get  from  them  excellent  milk,  and  what  is  more,  ghee,  the  ex- 
istence of  which  outside  India  we  had  not  before  suspected.  They  also, 
such  is  the  abundance  of  cream,  manufacture  a  kind  of  cheese  called 
naiphiy  or  milk  skin,  which  is  very  good.  It  is  made  by  simmering  a 
bowlful  of  milk  for  hours  together  till  the  residuum  is  left  in  the 
shape  of  a  cake  about  half  an  inch  thick.  When  fresh  and  soft  it  is 
very  good,  something  like  Devonshire  cream,  and  when  dried  it  will 
keep  for  a  long  time.  In  this  region  the  houses  cease  to  have  gabled 
roofs,  having  flat  terraces  instead,  as  in  Egypt  and  other  Oriental 
countries.  The  explanation  is  that  wood  is  scarce  in  the  north,  and  flat 
roofs  can  be  constructed  with  a  smaller  quantity  of  timber. 

Tsitsihar  is  about  360  miles  north  of  Eirin,  and  we  did  the  journey 
in  18  days.  We  might  have  done  it  in  less,  but  unfortunately  the  only 
agreement  we  could  make  with  our  carters  was  one  for  a  daily  wage,  so, 
like  true  Chinese,  they  purposely  delayed  our  progress.  I  strongly 
recommend  any  one  travelling  in  China  never  to  make  an  agreement  of 
that  kind.  It  will  be  far  cheaper  in  the  end,  and  far  more  satisfactory, 
to  agree  even  to  exorbitant  terms  for  piece-work. 

We  had  contemplated  going  as  far  as  Aigun  and  Blagoveschensk, 
but  except  for  an  occasional  Buddhist  montunent,  exactly  like  those  of 
Ladakh,  the  country  was  not  very  interesting,  so  we  determined  to  visit 
the  settlements  north  of  the  Sungari,  which  have  been  springing  up  in 
this  region  with  great  rapidity  during  the  last  few  years.  So  we  turned 
towards  the  south-west,  and  a  journey  of  about  170  miles  over  entirely 


652 


A  JOLTRXEY  IN  MANCHURIA. 


bare  steppe  brought  vlb  to  the  flourislimg  town  of  Hulan*  The  steppe 
was  like  an  undulating  sea  of  graea,  the  crest  of  each  wave  being 
about  four  miles  apart,  and  almost  entirely  uninhabitetl.  In  some 
places  the  soil  is  strongly  impregnated  with  alkalies,  from  which  by 
lijtiviation  various  preparations  of  stida  and  saltpetre  are  made.  The 
process  is  very  rude,  exactly  akin  to  what  may  be  seen  any  day 
in  Ladftkh  and  in  Sind.  Vast  flocks  of  antelopes,  hwang-yaji^,  were 
occasionally  met  with,  as  well  as  large  flocks  of  bustards,  eome  of  which 
we  secured*  Numerous  varieties  of  cranes  and  wildfowl  were  also 
observed,  but  with  the  exception  of  the  bustard  they  were  all  too  Bhy  t» 
allow  of  our  obtaining  specimens. 

The  Bteppo  cornea  to  an  eod  about  30  miles  from  Hulan,  and  the 
contrast  between  the  uncultivated  prairie  which  belongs  to  the  Mongol 
dukea  and  the  rich  reclaimed  tract  beyond,  which  is  in  the  jurisdiction  of 
the  Chinese,  was  very  abrux^fc  and  very  striking.  The  district  we  now 
entered  has  only  been  settled  in  comparatively  recent  years.  It  lies 
between  a  branch  of  tlie  great  Khiugan  range,  which  extends  north* 
ward  up  to  and  beyond  the  river  Amur,  and  the  river  Sutigari,  It  is 
from  70  to  lUO  miles  broad  in  the  widest  part,  but  proceeding  eastwards 
the  apui's  apjiroach  nearer  and  nearer  to  the  river  till  but  a  narrow  strip 
is  left.  The  immigration  for  some  years  past  has  been  annually  in- 
creasing. The  principal  to'^vns  are  Hulan  on  the  river  of  tho  same 
name,  Pe-tun-lin-tzu  50  miles  to  the  north-east,  and  Pa-yen- sho-shu 
about  the  same  distance  to  the  south-east  of  Pe-tun-lin-tzu.  All  these 
places  offered  a  great  contrast  to  the  more  ancient  towns  of  Manchuria. 
The  streets  are  crowded  with  shops,  spacious,  elegantly  decorated,  and 
full  of  goods  of  a  better  class  than  are  seen  in  towns  further  south; 
building  operations  are  going  on  as  rapidly  as  in  a  London  Kubnrb,  and 
everything  bears  evidence  of  growing  and  prosperous  commuuitics.  It 
may  be  called  the  Manitoba  of  China,  Unibrtunately,  the  administimtion 
is  still  veiy  imp<?rfect,  and  tho  country  is  infested  with  lianditti,  who 
find  an  as^lmii  in  tho  mountains  to  the  north.  It  is  not  fair  to  say  that 
tho  authorities  arc  blind  to  the  existence  of  the  pest,  or  that  they  fail 
to  do  anjiihing  towards  putting  it  down.  The  grcatar  part  of  the 
garrison  of  Tsitsihar  itself  is  employed  on  outpost  duty  against  the 
brigands,  and  at  tho  largo  village  of  Chao-hu-wo-pu  there  was  an  officer 
on  special  duty  with  a  flying  column.  Some  French  missionaries  ^situated 
at  Pa>yen-shu-shu  and  tho  vicinity  told  us  that  the  number  of  robbers 
executed  was  very  great,  amounting  in  tho  last  year  or  two  to  no  less 
than  500  or  COO ;  but  all  mandarins  ai-e  not  energetic,  and  all  Manchu 
Boldiera,  esjxrcially  those  who  have  taken  to  gambling  and  dissipa- 
tion, are  not  brave.  One  mandarin  we  heard  of  as  conniving  with 
the  brigands  at  sacking  an  important  town,  and  several  instances  were 
told  ua  of  soldiers  who  had  suiTounded  brigands  ignominiously  lotting 
thcni  escape.     In  India  these  malefactors  '^vould  be  pursued  into  their 


A  JOUKNET  IN  HANCHORIA.  658 

fastnesses,  or  the  passes  into  the  hills  wonld  be  blockaded,  and  they 
would  be  starved  out;  but  the  mandarins  reserve  all  action  till  the 
enemy  actually  come  down  to  raid.  It  may  'be  wondered  therefore 
that  colonisation  should  continue  extending,  for  both  life  and  property 
are  most  insecure.  But  if  settlers  were  deterred  by  dangers  of  the 
kind.  Bed  Indians  would  be  masters  of  North  America  to  this  day. 
They  sack  towns,  villages,  isolated  distilleries  and  pawnbrokers'  shops, 
and  occasionally,  as  in  Italy,  they  carry  away  men  whom  they  suspect 
to  be  possessed  of  wealth ;  a  ransom  is  then  demanded,  failing  which 
the  brigands  invariably  keep  to  their  word,  and  send  the  victim's  head 
back  to  his  friends.  Occasionally  they  try  what  the  cutting  ofif  of  an 
ear  or  nose  may  do  to  extract  money  when  sending  for  it  in  the  first 
instance.  We  ourselves,  towards  dusk  one  evening,  met  with  a  party  of 
five,  all  armed  with  rifles,  on  the  high  road  to  Fe-tun-lin-tzii,  but  we 
saw  them  at  a  distance  and  displayed  our  guns.  Our  carts  were  going 
at  a  trot,  and  they  did  not  attempt  to  molest  us.  One  of  the  missionaries 
told  us  afterwards  that  it  is  thought  unlucky  to  interfere  with  ''  foreign 
devils."  The  towns  and  large  villages,  and  all  important  places  of 
business  are  as  strongly  fortified  as  possible,  even  to  the  mounting  of 
small  cannon  on  the  tops  of  the  walls,  and  most  travellers  carry  arms  of 
some  kind.  One  kind  of  life-preserver  was  new  to  us.  It  consists  of  a 
series  of  heavy  links  of  iron,  with  a  piece  about  six  inches  long  at  the 
end,  the  whole  attached  to  a  short  wooden  handle,  somewhat  resembling 
a  dog- whip.  It  gives  a  tremendous  blow,  but  of  course  would  be  useless 
if  the  assailant  closed.  From  Pe-tun-lin-tzu  as  far  as  San-sing,  and 
even  as  far  as  Ninguta  and  Hunchun,  the  authorities  sent  an  escort  of 
soldiers  with  us,  but  they  would  not  have  been  of  much  use  had  the 
brigands  attacked,  as  they  were  always  loitering  behind  or  had  cantered 
on  ahead  to  secure  themselves  good  accommodation. 

There  are  three  French  missionaries  established  at  Fa-yen-shu-shu 
and  in  the  neighbourhood,  all  worthy  specimens  of  their  race  and  sacred 
profession.  They  received  us  with  the  greatest  cordiality,  and  treated 
us  to  home-made  claret  and  eau  de  rt«,  prepared  by  themselves  firom  the 
wild  grapes  of  the  mountains,  and  very  good  liquor  it  was.  Their 
congregations  are  not  very  large,  but  they  are  extending,  and  here,  as 
elsewhere,  it  was  evident  these  good  Fathers  enjoyed  the  thorough 
affection  and  confidence  of  their  people  ;  not  that  this  is  surprising,  for 
they  have  devoted  their  lives  to  their  work,  and  never  contemplate 
returning  to  their  native  country.  A  few  years  ago  a  fourth  missionary 
attempted  to  establish  himself  at  Hulan,  but  he  was  attacked  by  a 
number  of  ruffianly  soldiers,  at  whom,  with  great  want  of  judgment, 
he  fired  a  pistol  and  killed  a  mandarin.  The  result  was,  he  himself 
was  nearly  beaten  and  tortured  to  death.  It  might  have  been  expected 
that  this  incident  would  have  led  to  the  position  of  the  other  three 
missionaries  becoming  untenable,  but  it  is  creditable,  both  to  the  Chinese 


554 


A  JOURNETf  IN  MANCHURIA. 


and  to  the  missionaries  themselves,  that  thej  have  suffered  nothing  in 
consequeoce* 

Tho  missionaries  told  us  that  the  Solon  Manchus  who  inhabit  the  hills 
to  the  north  are  still  as  savage  as  they  were  two  hundred  years  ago, 
\vhen  even  the  women  were  described  as  riding  and  hunting  exactly 
like  the  men.  ^Vhilo  wo  were  at  Hulan,  three  Chinese  returned 
from  the  hills  where  they  had  been  soarchiug  for  a  medicinal  root,  the 
survivors  of  a  party  of  thirteen,  nearly  all  of  whom  had  been  murdered 
by  the  Solons. 

A  march  or  two  beyond  Pa-ycn*shu-shu  the  cultivation  begins  to  fall 
ofil  The  low  ground  is  somewhat  swampy,  broken  by  a  series  of  low 
undulations  of  gravelly,  poor  soil,  and  the  price  demanded  by  the 
Government  does  not  offer  sufficient  inducements.  Between  Pei-jang- 
mu,  the  place  at  which  the  high  road  from  Kirin  crosses  the  Sungari,  and 
San-sing,  about  120  miles,  cultivation  is  scanty  and  Ijad.  Still,  a  great 
deal  of  good  land  is  still  left. 

The  next  place  of  importance  was  San-sing,  which  is  situated  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Sungari,  on  a  spit  of  land  between  the  two  rivers  the 
Hurka  or  Mutan  Chiang,  and  tho  Wu-kung.  The  first  is  about  150 
yards  broad,  and  for  a  mile  below  the  confiuenco  its  clear  blue  waters  can 
lie  seen  flowing  side  by  side  with  those  of  the  muddy  Sungari.  The 
Wu'kung  joins  the  Sungari  about  a  mile  further  west,  flowing  along  the 
base  of  a  precipitous  range  of  bills.  It  is  alxmt  50  yards  broad,  and  at 
the  time  of  our  visit  was  ten  feet  deep,  though  occasionally  it  is  shallow 
enough  to  ford,  San~sing  is  about  150  mik^s  above  the  placo  where  it 
joins  tho  Amur,  and  300  from  Khabarofka,  the  capital  of  the  Russian 
Maritime  Province,  There  is  no  road  along  its  banks,  but  the  stream  is 
very  deep,  and  navigable  by  large  craft.  Tho  authorities  do  not  permit 
immigrants  from  tho  south  to  settle  l>elow  San-sing,  and  trade  betWL'cn 
that  place  and  the  Eussian  stations  on  the  Amur  is  discouraged, 
which  is  a  pit}'.  The  Amur  is  tho  natural  outlet  for  the  fortik^  districta 
north  of  Kinn,  and  were  the  Russian  and  Chinese  officials,  or  perhaps  I 
ought  to  say,  the  Russian  and  Chinese  Governments,  on  a  thoroughly 
friendly  footing,  a  commeroe  valuable  to  both  countries  might  easily  bo 
developed.  To  guard  this  great  waterway  into  their  country,  the 
Chinese  have  erected  a  fort  about  seven  miles  below  the  to\\Ti,  at  a 
point  where  the  Sungari  is  very  narrow.  The  fort  is  anned  with  five 
great  Krupp  guns,  and  the  newest  and  most  expensive  sort  of  shells. 
A  number  of  soldiers  were  bard  at  work  in  the  fort,  but  most  of 
the  garrison,  so  we  were  informed,  are  kept  out  of  mischief  at  a 
gold-mine,  ivhich  is  worked  on  behalf  of  the  Government,  a  little 
distance  off. 

At  San -sing  we  tried  to  make  the  acquaintance  of  the  Yii-p*i-Tatzu, 
or  Fish-skin  Tartars^  who  wear  clothes  made  of  salmon-skin*  They 
have  now  rttired  100  miles  down  the  Sungari,  and  only  come  up  to 


I 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURIA.  556 

San-sing  in  the  winter  to  make  purchases,  so  we  could  not  see  any  of 
them. 

From  San-sing  we  proceeded  up  the  right  bank  of  the  Mutan  Chiang 
as  far  as  Ninguta,  about  1 70  miles  to  the  south.  The  scenery  down 
this  river  must  be  very  lovely  in  summer.  It  winds  about  in  a  deep 
valley  between  hills  covered  with  dwarf  oak,  and  which  in  most  places 
come  down  to  the  water's  edge,  while  on  the  east  rises  a  chain  of  fine 
mountains,  the  tops  of  which  are  covered  with  lofty  pine  forests,  and 
form  the  watershed  of  the  Hurka  and  the  Usuri  The  fall  of  the  river 
is  very  gradual,  nor  did  we  notice  any  rapids  during  the  whole  length 
of  its  course.  Its  average  width  is  about  100  to  160  yards,  the  depth 
varying  from  five  to  ten  feet,  so  that  there  are  no  fords.  Occasionally  it 
divides  into  three  or  four  channels,  the  islands  formed  by  which  are 
covered  with  willows,  which  add  greatly  to  the  picturesqueness  of  the 
valley.  The  road,  which  was  constructed  about  seven  years  ago,  I 
believe,  for  military  purposes,  follows  the  old  mule-track,  and  is  in 
consequence  barely  fit  for  wheeled  traffic.  It  crosses  a  constant  series  of 
spurs,  some  of  which  are  extremely  steep,  and  we  had  several  accidents 
in  crossing  them.  Between  the  spurs  lie  swamps  which  have  been  cause- 
wayed and  bridged  in  places,  but  many  of  the  bridges  are  broken  down, 
and  the  quagmires  have  occasionally  swallowed  up  the  roadway.  In 
addition  to  this  the  hill-sides  themselves  frequently  form  one  connected 
morass,  owing  to  the  vast  number  of  springs  which  rise  high  up  on  the 
mountain  sides.  Had  not  the  first  frosts  of  winter  begun  and  the  surface 
become  hard,  we  should  have  found  this  road  very  difficult. 

Forty  miles  from  San-sing  we  stopped  at  Wei-tzu  Ho,  from  which 
place  the  mule-track  starts  that  was  taken  by  the  heroic  M.  Venault  in 
his  memorable  journey  to  search  for  the  murdered  M.  de  la  Bruniere  in 
the  year  1860.  At  the  present  day  even  carts  find  their  way  across  the 
mountains  as  far  as  the  junction  of  the  Moli  with  the  Usuri.  Up  to 
Wei-tzu  Ho  cultivation  is  pretty  general,  but  south  of  it  the  valley 
narrows,  and  population  almost  ceases.  For  upwards  of  100  miles  almost 
the  only  houses  are  those  occupied  by  military  outposts,  each  manned  by 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  soldiers,  whose  duties  are  to  carry  the  post,  and, 
if  necessary,  capture  brigands.  They  are  garrisoned  half  from  San- 
sing  and  half  from  Ninguta. 

Those  who  have  read  Mr.  Bavenstein's  work,  *  The  Bussians  on  the 
Amur,'  may  remember  the  following  passage  from  M.  de  la  Bruni^re's 
letter : — 

"  Towards  the  end  of  September,  at  the  approach  of  winter,  another  kind  of  fish, 
called  tamaha,  appears  in  the  Amur  and  Usuri.  It  comes  from  the  sea  in  shoals  of 
FC'veral  thousands,  and  weighs  from  10  to  15  lb?,  in  weight ;  the  shape,  and  espe- 
cially the  flavour  of  its  flesh,  gave  one  reason  to  suppose  it  a  kind  of  small  salmon. 
God  in  His  paternal  providence,  mindful  even  of  those  who  do  not  glorify  Him,  gives 
it  to  the  poor  inhabitants  of  this  country  as  an  exoellent  preservative  against  the 


556 


A  JOURNEF  IN  MAKCHURIA. 


rigours  of  winter.  1  state  what  I  found  by  experience,  witkout  wine  and  without 
flour,  supported  by  a  very  little  millet  and  a  morsel  of  tiie  dried  fiah,  I  have  suffered  less 
from  a  continual  cold  of  51°j  and  which  during  many  days  exceeded  65°,  than  I  did 
in  the  south  of  Lioo-tuDg,  with  better  food  and  temperature  of  some  4  degrees  below 
zero." 

It  so  happened  that  the  season  for  catching  these  Balinon  was  at  its 
height  when  we  passed  up  the  valley.  Tho  principal  tributaries  uf  the 
Mutaii  Chiang  were  dammed  with  weirs  of  wickerwork,  on  the  far  side  uf 
which  were  coops  connected  with  the  weir  by  small  openings.  When  a 
ahoal  of  fish  is  going  up,  these  coops  fill  in  a  short  time  with  almost  a 
solid  mass  of  salmon,  and  they  are  hauled  out  with  a  gaff  as  fast  as  the 
implement  can  be  inserted.  In  a  few  minutes  wo  saw  a  whole  Ijoat-load 
landed.  The  eaTCS  of  all  the  houses  in  this  region  are  at  this  timo 
hung  with  thousands  of  fish  split  open  and  diyhig  in  the  sun,  which 
when  cooked  are  not  at  all  bad  eating. 

At  the  eighth  stage  from  San-sing»  about  twenty  miles  north  of  Nin- 
gnta^  we  halted  a  day  at  Yeh-ho,  where  the  Kinguta  garrison  is  stationed, 
Yeh-ho  beang  tho  idace  where  the  road  axiross  tho  mountaius  to  Lake 
Hinka  and  tho  Itusaian  settlement  of  Nikolsk  commences.  There  is  a 
iittio  trade  between  the  two  places,  which  showa  signs  of  increasing* 
About  thirteen  miles  further  on  the  Mutan  Chiang  makes  a  sweep  to  the 
west,  and  the  road  crosses  it.  Seven  miles  further  stands  ^'inguta,  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  river. 

San-fling,  as  might  be  expected  from  the  discouragement  given  to 
settlers,  is  not  a  vei*y  thriving  t^jwn.  Kingut^i,  on  tho  contrary,  is  making 
great  progress,  Tho  valley  of  the  Mutan  Chiang  widens  c\>nsiderably 
from  Yeh  Ho,  so  that  Ninguta  is  really  in  the  centre  of  an  extensive  plain, 
connected  ii\'ith  which  are  numerous  fertilt*  valleys,  drained  by  affluents 
of  the  main  river.  There  is  little  trade  between  San-sing  and  Kinguta, 
though  the  river  is  navigable  for  large  boats  the  wholo  of  the  summer. 
Only  three  or  four  bcjats  a  year,  wo  were  told,  come  from  San-sing  laden 
with  earthenware  and  fragile  articles,  and  they  return  ladt-n  with  melons 
and  fresh  vegetables.  With  Hunchun,  on  the  other  hand,  the  Kinguta 
trade  may  bo  called  considerable,  as  there  is  not  much  cultivation  about 
the  latter  place,  and  it  depends  lur  flour,  wine,  and  other  bulky  neces- 
saries of  lile  almost  entirely  upon  Kinguta. 

At  Kinguta  wo  found  one  civilised  institution,  such  as  would  hardly 
be  expected  in  su  remote  a  place — I  mean  a  telegraph  oflSee,  More  for 
military  than  for  commercial  and  general  purposes,  the  Chinese  are  now 
busy  connecting  all  their  frontier  stations  with  Pekin  by  telegraph.  An 
office  was  opened  at  Hunchun  only  a  few  days  before  we  arrived  there, 
and  the  posts  were  lying  ready  for  erection  this  season  between 
San-aing  and  Kinguta.  We  met  an  officer  of  tho  Department  between 
Kirin  and  Tsitsihar,  surveying  a  line  between  Kirin  and  Aigun  on 
the   Amur,   which   also   will    bo    opened,    I   believe,    in  the  course   of 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURIA.  567 

the  present  season.  It  seems  rather  like  putting  the  cart  before  the 
horse,  having  telegraphs  before  the  post-office,  but  from  the  Chinese  point 
of  view  that  circumstance  is  all  in  the  telegraph's  favour,  as  merchants 
use  the  line  more  than  they  otherwise  would,  and  help  to  pay  its  expenses. 

Hunchun  by  the  road  is  about  180  miles  south  of*  Ninguta.  We 
crossed  to  the  right  bank  of  the  Mutan  Chiang,  a  few  miles  below  the 
city,  on  the  28th  October.  The  season  was  by  all  accounts  a  very  mild 
one,  but  from  this  time  the  weather  got  colder  and  colder.  Leaving  on 
October  29th,  the  thermometer  at  starting  was  11°  Fahr.,  and  from  that 
date  onward  till  we  had  almost  got  back  to  Mukden,  it  varied  from  that 
to  —  14°  Fahr.  The  days  were  very  short,  so  we  had  to  rise  before 
daylight  and  commence  our  march  even  before  the  first  streak  of  dawn. 
It  was  cold,  but  healthy  work.  We  dressed  ourselves  like  our  carters, 
in  long  sheep- skin  robes,  reaching  down  to  the  heels,  with  fox-skin  caps 
that  covered  our  ears  and  necks,  and  when  riding  on  the  carts  we  pulled 
on  over  our  boots  and  trowsers  a  gigantic  loose  pair  of  top-boots,  also 
made  of  sheep-skin.  Fortunately  we  had  very  little  snow,  or  we  might 
have  suffered  serious  detentions.  It  took  nine  days  to  march  from 
Ninguta  to  Hunchun.  The  road  on  the  whole  is  a  good  deal  better  than 
that  from  San-sing.  About  55  miles  from  Ninguta  we  crossed  the  range 
which  divides  the  valley  of  the  Mutan  Chiang  from  the  basin  of  the 
T*um^n.  It  is  1460  feet  in  height,  and  covered  with  dense  forest,  prin- 
cipally birch  and  pine;  amongst  the  latter  a  tree  bearing  an  edible 
nut  was  conspicuous.  After  crossing  two  more  ridges,  steep  but  not 
very  high,  both  under  800  feet,  we  came  upon  the  Kaya-ho,  one  of  the 
principal  affluents  of  the  T'umen,  here  about  50  yards  across.  Leaving 
that  on  our  right,  we  went  up  an  affluent  called  the  Wang-ching  Ho, 
across  three  more  spurs,  after  which  we  found  ourselves  on  the  bank 
of  the  Tyumen,  a  little  below  its  confluence  with  the  Kaya  Ho,  just  in 
the  centre  of  its  great  bend. 

The  place  where  we  first  struck  the  Tyumen,  or,  as  the  Chinese  call 
it,  the  Kauli  Chiang,  is  a  basin  several  miles  in  diameter,  completely 
surrounded  by  mountains,  which  bears  the  appearance  of  having  at  one 
time  been  a  lake ;  for  around  the  base  of  the  hills  are  to  be  seen  the 
remains  of  an  ancient  beach,  as  in  the  Jhelum  valley  in  Kashmir,  and 
little,  isolated,  elevated  patches  in  the  middle  look  as  if  they  had  been 
islands.  The  river  has  found  its  way  out  of  this  basin  through  a  low 
range  of  hills  by  a  narrow  rocky  defile.  So  close  does  the  cliflf  approach 
the  water  that  there  is  barely  room  for  a  cart  to  pass.  Beyond,  the 
valley  again  widens,  and  cultivation  becomes  general.  On  the  opposite 
side  of  tiie  river  is  Korea,  and  we  could  see  a  good  deal  of  cultivation 
and  a  town  called  Ta-wen-chang,  surrounded  by  a  wall  of  considerable 
pretensions.  The  Jesuit  Fathers  have  recorded  their  sensations  on  reach- 
ing the  banks  of  the  T'umSn,  ''  with  nothing  but  woods  and  wild  beasts 
on  one  side,  while  the  other  presents  to  the  view  all  that  art  and  labour 


558 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURIA. 


could  pi-oduce  in  the  best  cultivatecl  kiogdom.  They  saw  walled  cities, 
and  determined  the  situation  of  four  of  tbcm,  which  hounded  Korea  on 
the  north/* 

A  few  miles  below  the  defile  the  road  lea  yob  the  river  on  the  right 
and  passes  the  affluent  called  Mi  Chiang,  and  the  Yillage  of  the  sanio 
name.  Twenty  njik's  further  on  stands  the  town  of  Hunchmi.  It 
consist 3  of  an  enclosure  alxjut  800  yards  long  by  4O0  yards  broad,  sur- 
rounded by  a  lofty  stone  wall,  inside  ivhieh  is  tht?  Genciars  yainen,  and 
some  inns  and  ehops*  The  barracks  are  all  outside,  and  m  is  the  princi- 
pal part  of  the  bazaar.  We  recognised  with  pleasure  that  we  were  now 
within  a  raeasnrahle  distance  of  civilisation,  for  the  shops  were  full  of 
foreign  goods  imi>orted  from  Itussia,  such  iia  kerosene  lamps,  clocks, 
glycerine  soap,  comfits,  biacuits,  cLintz,  English  teacups,  American 
canned  fruit,  and  a  quantity  of  miscellaneous  goods.  Three  ports  of 
them,  I  am  glad  to  say,  were  En  glitch. 

Hnnchun  is  essentially  a  garrison  town,  though  there  are  a  few 
dealers  in  seaweed,  toadstools,  and  medicinal  roots,  lar^o  qnantities  of 
which  are  sent  to  Ningnta  and  Kirin,  and  thence  to  all  parts  of  China. 
There  is  also  a  considerable  trade  in  deer-horns.  Shortly  after  arrival 
we  went  to  call  on  the  General— an  officer  of  distinguished  service  in 
the  Tae-ping  war.  He  received  us  with  the  greatest  possible  politeness 
and  cordialit}^  and  sent  ns  a  dinner  which  for  excellence  of  cooking 
could  not  be  surpassed  by  any  restaurant  in  Europe.  IV-rhaps  wo  ap* 
predated  it  the  more,  because  from  the  time  we  left  Pa-yen-ahn-shu  we 
had  lived  exclusively  on  a  diet  of  pheasants,  only  occasionally  varied  by 
a  wild  goose  or  a  blackcock.  Throughout  the  whole  of  Eastern  Man- 
churia pheasants  swarm  to  an  extent  that  is  scarcely  credible. 
Towards  the  end  of  harvest  they  collect  from  tho  mountains  in  the 
sttibble,  and  I  have  seen  occasionally  2U0  or  300  at  a  time  rise  from  a 
single  field.  They  lie  very  close,  but  are  very  strong  on  the  wing,  and 
they  gave  na  very  g<xid  shooting.  In  some  parts  too,  wild  geeso 
swarmed  in  myriads.  They  generally  kept  high  in  the  air,  but  occa- 
sionally flew  low  enough  to  allow  of  our  securing  one  or  two.  As  for 
the  black  game,  they  were  as  tame  as  barn-door  fowls,  perching  in  large 
flocks  on  the  wallow  trees,  and  occasionally  were  good  enough  to  allow 
ns  to  go  under  the  trees  and  pick  out  tho  finest  of  them  sitting. 

A  considerable  garrison  is  kept  at  Hunchun ;  the  barracks  are  sur- 
icmndcd  by  trees,  and  the  streets  are  cleaner  than  any  Chinese  town  I 
have  seen.  One  dties  almost  think  tho  General  had  attended  a  Sanitary 
Cummissioner^B  lectures  in  India.  Sumo  of  the  truops  are  still  armed 
with  auch  antiquated  weapons  as  gingalls  (huge  muskets,  each  of  which 
takes  two  men  to  carry)  and  old  liro\\Ti  Bess  smooth-bores,  while  a  vast 
number  of  fighting  men  are  wasted  in  carrying  banners,  which  though 
very  picturesque,  are  not  likely  to  prove  of  practical  use  against  modern 
rifles. 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURIA.  669 

The  Russian  frontier,  which  has  only  recently  been  demarcated  afresh 
by  a  Chinese  and  a  Bnssian  Commission,  is  not  more  than  8  or  10  miles 
from  Hunchun,  The  road  passes  for  five  or  six  miles  over  an  open  plain, 
on  which  the  Chinese  have  recently  built  two  forts,  and  ascends. a  low 
range,  an  outwork  of  a  lofty  chain  forming  the  watershed  between  the 
Tumen  and  the  Suifun,  which  last  river  runs  into  the  sea  a  little  beyond 
Possiet  harbour.  Scarcely  a  mile  from  the  crest  of  this  ridge  there  is  a 
brass  pillar,  with  archaic  Chinese  characters  recording  the  fact  that  the 
boundary  was  fixed  there  by  Imperial  command  tinder  Commissioner 
Wu  a  few  months  before  we  arrived;  and  about  three  miles  beyond 
that  the  Russians  have  constructed  an  outpost  for  200  or  300  Cossacks. 
We  were  not  provided  with  passports,  as  we  had  no  intention  of 
travelling  in  Russian  territory,  but  we  wrote  to  the  officer  command- 
ing, asking  leave  to  pay  him  a  visit,  to  hear  the  news  from  Europe, 
and  to  buy  some  stores  and  provisions.  We  received  a  most  courteous 
answer,  offering  us  the  cordial  but  frugal  hospitality  of  a  Cossack. 
Accordingly  wo  rode  across,  and  found  Colonel  Sokalowsky  busy 
with  the  construction  of  the  new  outpost.  The  whole  place  was 
like  a  bee-hive,  for  the  Cossacks  have  to  house  themselves,  and  a  fine 
barrack-room,  together  with  subsidiary  buildings,  such  as  stables,  hos- 
pitals, bakery,  married  quarters,  officers*  houses,  and  last,  but  not  least, 
a  great  Russian  bath  were  under  construction.  We  were  told  the 
amount  of  the  grant  made  for  the  entire  work,  and  I  am  sure  a  British 
Royal  Engineer  would  consider  it  ridiculously  inadequate.  The 
Colonel  was  himself  his  own  architect,  engineer,  and  clerk  of  the 
works,  and  his  house  was  an  arsenal  in  petto.  On  one  side  were  ranged 
the  carbines  of  his  men,  and  around  the  room  were  nails,  hinges, 
rope,  twine,  stirrup-irons,  leather,  in  fact  every  kind  of  miscellaneous 
article  required  by  his  men  for  their  houses,  their  horses  or  equipments. 
He  showed  us  everything,  and  then  gave  us  a  capital  dinner  and  a 
shake-down  on  the  floor. 

Next  morning  wo  rode  off  to  the  principal  military  station,  Novaviyesk, 
fifteen  miles  further  on,  on  the  north  shore  of  Possiet  harbour.  In 
summer  it  must  be  a  lovely  spot,  surrounded  by  lofty  mountains,  with 
the  ocean  close  by,  but  in  winter  it  is  desolate  in  the  extreme.  It  bears 
a  strong  family  likeness  to  a  small  Indian  station,  the  shops,  barracks, 
offices,  and  picturesque  Greek  church  being  located  promiscuously,  with 
quite  the  Indian  want  of  system.  The  shops  were  quite  as  good  as  the 
ordinary  Parsee  shops,  and  we  got  all  the  luxuries  we  wanted.  Possiet 
itself,  a  settlement  of  only  thirty  houses,  is  about  two  miles  off  as  the 
crow  flies,  on  the  seaward  side  of  the  harbour,  but  by  road  round  the 
head  of  the  harbour  the  distance  is  ten  miles.  Novaviyesk  is  situated 
on  the  edge  of  a  small  stream.  Two  or  three  miles  to  the  north,  up  a 
valley,  is  a  colony  of  farmers,  but  they  were  not  doing  very  well.  The 
colonel  informed  us  they  did  not  grow  enough  food  to  support  them- 


j60 


A  JOURKET  IK  MANCHURIA. 


selves,  and  the  GoveanTDent  had  to  import  flour  f  o  save  them  from  starva- 
tion, A  good  many  Koreans  have  taken  up  land  in  tho  vicinity,  and  the 
Unsaiana  consider  them  docile,  iudnstriona,  and  well  behaved.  Wo 
watched  a  party  of  young  Cossacks  being  drilled,  and  others  being 
instructed  in  gymnastics,  and  it  was  difficult  to  realise  one  was  not  liack 
again  in  India.  West  of  the  harbour,  at  the  point  near  the  mouth  of  the 
T*nmen  where  the  Korean,  Chinese,  and  Eussian  frontiers  join,  is  another 
Eussian  outpost.  On  our  return  to  the  frontier  we  dined  again  with  the 
colonel,  meeting  the  Eussian  Imperial  CommisBiouer,  SI,  Methuen,  who 
spoke  English.  IJe  told  us  of  the  failure  of  the  lIoTne  Eiile  movement  in 
England,  of  the  expulsion  of  the  Orleans  Princes  and  Prince  Alexander 
of  Bulgaria,  and  other  things  which  were  news  to  na,  though  ancient 
history  to  the  rest  of  the  world. 

On  our  return  to  Hunchun  tho  part^^  divided*  Mr*  Younghusband 
ad  Mr.  Fulford  went  l»ack  to  Xinguta  by  the  road  we  came,  to  pick  up 
onr  servant  whom  we  had  sent  from  Kiiin  to  the  coast  for  letters,  and 
to  see  the  remarkable  plain  of  stone,  described  by  a  former  Consul  in 
Manchuria,  Mr.  Adkius,  while  I  went  alone  by  a  mule-track  which  leads 
across  the  hills  to  Omoso  on  the  Kirin  and  Ninguta  road.  This  route 
follows  the  course  of  an  affinent  of  the  Kaya  Ho  till  it  reaches  tho  main 
range  of  the  Chang-pai  Shan,  The  road  branches  off  at  Liang-shtti- 
chien-tzij,  30  miles  from  Hunchun,  on  the  Ningnta  road,  and  after 
about  50  miles  of  alternate  ridge,  valley,  and  swamp,  it  descends  on  the 
Wei-tzii  Ho,  at  a  place  called  Nan-kang-tzii>  where  are  three  barracks 
garrisoned  by  about  1 500  men.  It  follows  a  valley,  about  4  or  5  ini les  w  ide, 
which  is  now  being  settled,  for  about  25  miles.  After  crossing  two 
spurs,  it  rejoins  the  river  hank,  and  follows  the  valley  for  about  30  miles 
further,  to  the  foot  of  the  main  chain  of  mountains.  Here  is  an  easy 
pass  called  Ha-la-pa-ling,  and  the  road  then  descends  upon  a  plateau 
much  higher  than  the  valley  just  left,  in  which  the  Mutan  Chiang  and 
its  tributaries  take  their  source.  This  plateau  is  intersected  b}'  vast 
morasses,  over  somo  of  which  causeways  have  been  recently  con- 
structed, but  there  is  also  a  good  deal  of  arable  land,  and  settlers  are 
to  be  found  every  few  miles.  The  plateau  I  spoke  of  is  divided  into 
sections  by  numerous  low  si>ui*b  jutting  out  from  the  main  chain,  and 
occasionally  singular  isolated  hills  like  islands  are  to  bo  observed- 

For  about  thirty-five  miles  the  road  keeps  along  the  left  bank  of  the 
Bha  Ho,  which  falls  into  the  Mutaii  Cliiang  not  far  from  Tung-o*kang- 
tzu,  a  fair*aized  village,  where  a  small  raandarin  resides.  About  sixteen 
miles  to  tho  eouth-west  of  this  place  ytandis  the  town  of  An  tun,  now 
called  Tung-hwa-hsieu,  a  walled  town  with  a  small  garrison,  which  I 
cuucoive  may  be  identical  wdth  tho  place  marked  on  tho  maps  Odoli, 
from  which  place  a  mythical  history  relates  that  the  Manchu  dynasty 
originally  sprang.  Unft>rtunately  I  was  unable  to  visit  it.  I  was 
travelling  with  a  long  train  of  pack  mules,  the  owners  of  which  refused 


■ 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURIA.  661 

to  wait  for  me.  Some  modem  authorities  believe  the  existence  of  Odoli 
to  be  entirely  imaginary.  P^re  Du  Halde,  however,  describes  it  in  con- 
siderable detail,  as  being  very  strong,  accessible  only  by  a  narrow  cause- 
way, which  rises  in  the  middle  of  the  water,  where  may  be  seen  great 
staircases  of  stone,  with  other  remains  of  a  palace ;  so  that  it  yet  remains 
to  be  seen  whether  this  account  was  merely  recorded  by  the  Fathers  who 
surveyed  Manchuria  from  Chinese  hearsay,  or  whether  the  ruins  really 
exist.  I  enquired  of  everybody  for  Odoli,  but  the  name  was  entirely 
unknown  to  them.  This,  however,  is  not  surprising,  as  even  the 
Manchus  have  forgotten  the  old  Tartar  nomenclature,  and  invariably 
call  places  by  their  Chinese  names. 

Sixteen  miles  beyond  Tung-o-kang-tzu  the  road  crosses  the  Mutan 
Chiang,  there  about  60  yards  wide,  at  its  junction  with  a  stream  called  the 
Chu-erh-tao  Ho,  following  the  course  of  which  the  Kirin  high  road  is 
struck  at  the  large  village  of  Omoso,  six  or  eight  miles  further  on.  This 
highway  crosses  the  watershed  between  the  Sungari  and  the  T'um&i  by 
the  Ch'ang-tsai-ling,  a  lofty  and  steep  pass,  about  20  miles  to  the  west 
of  the  village.  A  special  guard  of  soldiers  was  given  to  protect  me 
while  crossing,  as  in  spite  of  a  number  of  soldiers  being  posted  near  the 
top,  the  forest-clad  slopes  of  the  range  are  the  home  of  a  band  of  brigands, 
the  pursuit  of  which  gives  the  soldiers  perennial  employment.  A  day 
or  two  before  I  arrived,  the  guard  had  penetrated  the  hills,  and  found 
the  brigands'  house,  but  the  occupants  were  away,  so  the  house  was 
burned,  and  the  soldiers  returned.  In  1871,  when  a  Consul  (Mr.  Adkins) 
crossed  this  pass,  he  saw  the  dead  bodies  of  some  merchants,  who  had 
been  killed  by  brigands,  still  lying  on  the  side  of  the  road. 

About  20  miles  from  the  foot  of  the  pass  the  mule-track  again  left 
the  main  high  road  on  the  right,  and  crossed  another  range  called 
Hai-ching-ling,  almost  as  high,  but  not  as  steep,  as  the  Ch'ang-tsai-ling, 
and  another  march  beyond  that  brought  me  to  Kirin.  I  was  glad  when 
this  portion  of  the  journey  was  over,  for  the  mules  went  so  slowly 
that  we  never  started  later  than  two  in  the  morning,  with  the  thermo- 
meter below  zero,  and  continued  marching  till  four  or  five  the  next 
afternoon. 

Two  days  after  I  got  to  Kirin  my  companions,  by  hard  marching, 
rejoined  me.  When  returning  to  Ninguta,  they  had  made  the  last  two 
marches  through  the  fertile  vaUey  of  the  Malan  Ho,  an  affluent  of  the 
Mutan  Chiang,  and  they  had  visited  the  remains  of  an  old  city  called 
Tung-ching-chang.  They  describe  it  as  having  been  a  very  large 
place,  with  lofty  stone  walls  and  good  stone  houses.  The  people  have  a 
tradition  that  it  is  of  Korean  origin,  but  others  hold  that  it  was  the 
capital  of  the  Bo-hai*  State,  which  about  the  8th  century  a.d.  was 
recognised  by  the  then  reigning  dynasty  of  China,  and  was  the  capital 
city  of  the  Kin  dynasty  before  they  established  themselves  as  Emperors 

•  Or  Pei-hoL— [Ed.]. 


662 


A  JOURNEY  IN  5IANCHUIIIA. 


at  Pekin.  Mousignor  Boyer,  the  coadjutor  Bisliop  of  Maiitliuria,  who 
has  Leon  in  the  provhico  more  than  thirty  yeara,  i>elievea  that  this  is 
tho  real  sito  of  the  ancieut  Odoli^  although  the  description  does  not 
correspond  with  that  quoted  above. 

My  companioBs  had  crossed  the  Plain  of  Stone,  passing  hy  Lake 
Piltau.  The  so-called  Plain  of  Stone  is  a  hroad  valley,  formerly  filled 
hy  a  morass,  over  which  a  stream  of  lava  has  flowed,  so  that  it  Wars  the 
appearance  of  a  solidiiied  sea  of  molten  metaL  In  gome  places  tho  crust 
is  deeply  cleft  by  fissures  at  the  bottom  of  which  the  water  can  bo  heard 
gurgling,  which  has  given  tho  Chineso  the  idea  that  there  is  a  subter- 
ranean lake  below.  A  good  description  of  the  Plain  of  Stone  and  of 
Lake  Piltan  may  bo  found  in  Consul  Adkins*s  report,  published  in  the 
China  Blue  Book  for  1872.  West  of  the  Ch*aiig-tsai-Iing,  my  two  c-om- 
panions  bad  followed  the  main  roiid  over  the  Lau-yeh-ling,  which  is 
about  10  miles  shorter  than  the  H a- chin g -ling,  but  not  so  easy  to 
climb. 

From  Eirin  we  went  to  Kaan-chang-tzu,  the  most  important  com- 
mercial city  in  Manchuria^  containing  about  100,000  inhabitants.  The 
cold  weather  traffic  bad  begun,  and  there  was  as  much  life  and  bustle  as 
in  the  city  of  London.  We  then  wont  to  Hsiau  Pa^kia-tzil,  the  residence 
of  Monslgnor  Boycr,  and  two  of  bis  colleagues,  and  stayed  a  day  to  see 
the  college,  schools,  and  church.  The  brigands  were  at  work  in  this 
neighbourhoc»d  also.  AVe  saw  a  party  of  them  that  had  just  been  cap- 
tured, and  heard  of  another  which  bad  visited  an  inn  close  hy  only  tho 
day  before  we  aiTived, 

We  then  turned  our  faces  southward,  making  for  Mukden  and 
Tingtzii  with  all  the  speed  possible.  Numerous  high  roads,  in 
winter  as  bard  and  level  as  a  billiard  table,  connect  northern  with 
son  them  Manchuria,  and  the  traffic  is  very  great.  One  day  we  counted 
upwards  of  900  carts  which  wc  passed,  most  of  them  huge  vehicles 
carrying  upwards  of  a  ton  of  goods,  drawn  by  eight  or  nine  mules  or 
ponies* 

During  this  part  of  the  journey  wo  saw  the  greater  part  of  Liao- 
tnng.  Though  it  Buffered  recently  from  great  floods  it  is  very  carefully 
cultivated,  and  covered  with  fiourisbing  towns  and  villages.  Whatever 
the  merits  or  demerits  of  Cbinese  rule,  this  province  certainly  haa  im- 
proved enormously  in  jtho  last  two  centuries.  In  16S2  Pcro  Yerbiest 
wrote  that  only  "  a  few  houses  bad  lately  l>een  built  within  tho  inclosures 
of  the  old  cities  ;  few  of  brick,  and  most  thatched,  and  in  no  order,"  and 
that  "  there  remained  not  the  least  mark  of  a  midtitude  of  towns  and 
\illages  that  stcxxl  before  tho  (Manehu-Chinese)  wars,"  and  in  1 709  the 
Jesuit  surveyors  reconled,  **The  towns  are  of  little  note  and  thinly 
peopled,  and  without  any  defence  except  a  wall  either  half  ruined  or 
made  uf  earth,  though  some  of  them,  as  Ichowand  Rinchan,  are  very  well 
situate  for  trade.'^    It  is  evident  that  the  walla  have  siuce  been  repaired 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURIA.  663 

— as  there  are  now  cities  with  really  splendid  walls  and  in  tolerably 
good  preservation,  while  inside  and  out  they  swarm  with  a  prosperous 
population. 

At  Mukden  we  spent  a  few  days  with  our  friends  the  Presbyterian 
missionaries,  who  are  doing  a  very  fine  work  in  that  neighbourhood. 
At  Tingtzii  we  separated.  Mr.  Younghusband  and  Mr.  Fulford  went 
duo  west  to  Tientsin  and  Pekin  by  land.  I  myself  was  obliged  to 
leave  China  without  delay,  and  the  river  at  Yingtzii  being  closed 
by  ice,  I  proceeded  southward  to  Port  Arthur,  which  is  open  all 
the  year  round.  Its  Chinese  name  is  Lu-shuan-kou  and  it  is 
situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  promontory  known  on  the 
Admiralty  charts  as  Kwan-tung.*  I  reached  it  after  eleven  days.  In  the 
neighbourhood  of  Yingtzii  the  country  is  low  and  flat,  so  much  so  that 
sea  water  is  led  over  it  at  high  tide,  from  which  salt  is  manufactured. 
Further  south  the  country  is  extremely  hilly,  and  the  land  on  the  banks 
of  the  many  streams  are  so  liable  to  floods  that  the  cultivated  area  bears 
but  a  small  proportion  to  the  whole. 

One  of  the  principal  industries  in  these  parts  is  the  growth  of  Tusserf 
silk.  The  worms  are  fed  on  the  dwarf  oaks  with  which  the  hill-sides 
are  covered,  and  the  cocoons  are  gathered  and  wound  off  in  winter.  At 
one  filatory  there  were  upwards  of  thirty  or  forty  young  men  engaged 
in  winding  silk.  They  were  crowded  together  in  the  most  insanitcuy 
way,  some  of  them  working  by  candlelight  during  the  day-time.  At 
Sha  Ho,  which  has  the  honour  of  being  the  first  mission  station  in  Man- 
churia, the  resident  missionary  accompanied  me  to  a  mountain  called 
Hsien-jdn  Shan,  the  Mountain  of  the  Sages,  a  fine,  craggy  hill,  partially 
covered  with  pine  trees.  A  road  winds  for  some  distance  up  a  fine  wild 
glen,  the  bottom  of  which  is  filled  with  fine  oaks,  and  ultimately  ascends 
the  mountain  by  stairs  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock  to  a  curious  cave  high 
up  on  the  face  of  the  cliff.  In  this  recess  have  been  constructed  several 
Buddhist  temples,  and  two  or  three  priests  are  always  on  duty.  The 
view  around  of  crags  and  precipices  and  pine-clad  ravines  is  superb. 

My  next  point  was  Ta-chiang  Ho,  a  small  port  on  the  Yellow  Sea, 
from  which  I  followed  a  route  previously  described  by  Dr.  Williamson 
to  Kin-chao.  At  this  place  the  promontory  is  barely  a  mile  wide,  and 
the  Chinese  are  fortifying  it.  This  part  of  the  country  abounds  in 
remains  attributed  to  the  Koreans,  who  were  masters  of  all  the  country 
as  far  north  as  Mukden  in  the  time  of  the  Tang  dynasty,  by  whom, 
after  very  hard  fighting,  they  were  expelled  in  the  year  645.  One 
of  these  forts,  still  in  perfect  preservation,  is  about  120  yards  square, 
with  square  flanking  towers  at  the  comers  and  in  the  middle  of  each 
side.  The  walls  are  25  feet  high,  composed  of  stone  at  the  bottom 
and  fine  large  bricks,  similar  to  those  whick  may  be  seen  in  the  Great 

*  Lit.  East  of  the  Great  Wall,  a  term  applied  by  the  Chinese  to  Liau-timg  generally, 
t  In  Chinese,  T'u  seti,— local  or  natilTe.— [En.]. 
No.  IX.— Skpt.  1887.]  2  8 


564 


A  JOURSEr  IK  MANCHURIA. 


Wall  of  China,  Tbo  gate  is  very  strongly  fortified.  This  fort  was 
probal>ly  biiilt  as  a  protection  for  the  port  of  Pi*tzii*wo  against  pirates. 
Moreover,  on  the  top  of  every  conspicuons  hill  is  a  watchtower  composed 
of  a  solid  pyramid  of  masonry^  40  feet  square  at  the  base,  tapering  off 
gradually  to  a  rounded  top  about  40  feet  from  the  ground.  Around  it 
is  a  wall  about  15  feet  high.  The  natives  informed  mo  that  these  were 
used  as  watchtowera  and  beacons,  and  tbat  in  former  times  signals  could 
be  exchanged  by  means  of  them  from  the  end  of  the  promontory  as  far 
north  as  Mukdon,  some  300  miles.  The  day  before  I  reached  Port 
Arthur  and  finished  my  journey  I  nearly  mot  with  a  catastrophe.  I 
had  been  warned  against  attempting  to  travel  while  it  was  snowing: 
a  storm  came  on,  but  1  persisted  in  pushing  on.  Before  very  long  the 
whole  country'  was  buried  under  a  sheet  of  white,  and  the  track,  wkich 
passed  over  very  rough  and  l>roken  ground,  was  completely  obliterated, 
and  not  a  sign  of  a  liouso  or  dwelling-place  could  be  seen.  I  knew  that 
two  missionaries  bad  found  themselves  iu  such  a  predicament  not  far 
from  the  very  place  where  I  was  only  two  years  before,  and  they  bad 
been  kept  in  the  snow  several  days  without  food,  so  I  began  to  feci 
uncomfortable.  Fortunately*  a  cart  c^me  up  lielonging  to  a  farmer  in 
the  neighbourhood,  and  he  showed  me  the  road  to  a  cottage,  where  I  was 
thankful  to  get  sbelter. 

Port  Arthur  is  situated  to  the  east  of  the  Liao-ti  Shan  promontory, 
only  about  eiitty  miles  from  Che«fu  as  a  crow  iiies.  The  Chinese 
have  chosen  it  as  the  headquarters  of  their  northern  fleet,  and  as  the 
first  line  of  defence  for  the  capital.  The  barlM>ur  is  a  good  one,  with 
a  very  narrow  entrance  to  the  sea»  and  the  Govemment  has  sjvent 
large  sums  iu  fortifying  the  coast  on  each  side  of  it.  There  are 
thirteen  forts,  and  the  artillery  officer  in  command  kindly  lot  me  see 
one,  which  was  armed  with  magnificent  Erupp  guns.  Great  docks  are 
also  in  progress^  while  torpedoes,  submarine  mines,  and  similar  industries 
are  also  in  full  swing.  It  is  garrisoned  by  troops  drilled  by  foreign 
oflioers,  bo  that  altogether  it  would  be  a  hard  nut  for  any  nation  to 
crack.  Here  I  found  a  Chinese  transport  sailing  for  Che-fu,  and  in 
two  days  more  my  tour  was  at  an  end,  and  I  had  left  Manchuria  be- 
hind me. 

Prom  this  imperfect  account  it  may  be  easily  gathered  that  >>efore 
long  Manchuria  will  cease  to  have  any  distinctive  existence,  and  will 
soon  constitute  as  integral  and  as  thoroughly  a  Chinese  i>ortion  of  the 
Empire  as  Canton.  She  is  at  present  in  a  transition  state*  The  southern 
province  is,  and  always  has  been  Chinese  to  all  intents  and  purposes. 
Manchu  names  and  traditions  may  continue  for  long  within  the  Imperial 
precincts  at  Pekin,  but  in  their  native  country  tbey  wnll  disappear. 
If  China  be  wise  she  will  carrj^  out  in  the  north  and  east  the  policy  she 
has  already  begun  in  Liau-tung  of  sending  her  best,  instead  of  her  worst 
and  most  corrupt  mandarins  to  a  country  which  is  of  so  much  im- 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHURIA,— DISCUSSION.  665 

portance,  both  politically  and  as  a  field  for  emigration  and  mining ;  she 
will  foster,  instead  of  repressing,  colonisation  in  the  Ch*ang-pai  Shan 
mountains,  and  on  the  Bnssian  border,  as  she  will  find  a  contented, 
well-to-do,  loyal  people  a  better  defence  against  possible  aggression 
than  empty  valleys  and  hills  which  are  calling  aloud  for  some  one  to 
come  and  occupy  them.  She  will  develope  her  mineral  wealth,  a  royalty 
on  which  would  amply  pay  for  a  better  and  therefore  a  more  expensive 
administration,  for  in  Manchuria  as  in  China  proper,  the  officials  are 
infamously  underpaid,  a  system  which  gives  direct  encouragement  to 
corruption  and  every  kind  of  abuse. 

To  any  traveller  who  contemplates  visiting  Manchuria  in  the  future, 
I  would  make  a  recommendation.  He  should  make  up  his  mind  whether 
he  wants  sport  or  whether  he  wants  exploration.  If  he  wants  sport, 
and  chooses  to  devote  himself  to  it,  he  could  not  do  better  than  seek 
the  Ch'ang-pai  Shan  in  the  early  spring,  go  to  Tang  Ho-kou,  and 
hunt  in  the  hills  around.  He  will  get  tiger,  stag,  bear,  and  numerous 
kinds  of  deer.  Or  better,  perhaps,  he  might  try  the  hills  north  of 
Pa-yen-shu-shu.  If  he  prefers  exploration,  let  him  leave  his  rifles 
behind  and  go  to  the  Pai-shan  Mountain,  explore  the  sources  of  the 
Yalu  and  T*um^n  as  well  as  of  the  Sungari,  and  follow  down  the  Korean 
boundary,  which  map-makers  seem  a  little  in  doubt  about.  Then  let 
him  find  Odoli,  and  hunt  for  a  great  wall,  which  P^re  du  Halde  says  once 
existed  between  Korea  and  Manchuria,  and  for  any  other  antiquities  he 
may  have  a  fancy  for,  and  I  am  sure  he  will  find  it  a  very  pleasant  and 
interesting  tour. 

After  the  reading  of  the  above  paper. 

Sir  Thos.  Wade  expressed  a  hope  that  all  travellers  in  China  would  be  careful, 
if  possible,  to  record  the  names  of  the  places  visited  in  written  Obinese.  The 
paucity  of  distinct  sounds  in  the  language  was  necessarily  the  cause  of  great  con- 
fusion. As  to  the  country  through  which  Mr.  James  had  travelled  to  the  north  of 
Korea,  it  was  the  home  of  many  races  of  which  the  history  was  more  or  less  known 
for  thirty  centuries,  and  who  had  migrated  westward.  Korea  which  was  now 
bounded  by  the  T'umSn,  in  former  ages  spread  right  into  the  province  of  which  Pekin 
was  the  capital.  In  the  eastern  end  of  that  province  there  were  still  remains  of 
ancient  Korean  cities.  The  authorities  of  all  tiie  three  eastern  provinces  were 
obliged  to  present  their  reports  to  Court  in  Manchu  as  well  as  in  Chinese.  The 
whole  Court  at  Pekin  used  the  Manchu  language  en  families  and  even  Chinese 
officials  when  they  had  passed  the  highest  degrees  were  commanded  to  study  it, 
though  they  did  not  go  very  far.  He  deprecated  the  drawing  of  any  distmction 
between  Manchuria  and  the  rest  of  China  politically,  whether  in  respect  of  its 
people  or  its  officials.  There  was  no  reason  to  suppose  that  an  inferior  class  of 
officials  was  sent  there.  In  former  days  the  provinces  of  Kirin  and  Tsitsihar  were 
used,  among  other  purposes,  as  places  of  exile  for  peccant  officials,  but  they  were 
administered  by  very  high  personages  indeed,  by  cousins  of  the  Emperor,  and  by 
officials  possessing  in  every  respect  as  high  a  status  as  any  in  the  empire.  It  was 
one  of  the  blood  imperial  who  was  governing  Kirin  in  1868  when  General  Muiavief 
crossed  the  Amur  and  extorted  a  treaty  from  him  coDoeding  to  Russia  fix>m  the 

2  s  2 


666 


A  JOURNEY  m  JIAKCimrJA,— DISCOSSrON, 


Sea  of  Okotsk  down  to  Yladivostock,  aome  20**  of  ktttude.  The  tlien  emperor  ha^ 
bad  on  his  hftnda  for  six  years  the  Taepiog  rebellion,  and  had  juat  got  into  a  (|uaiTel 
with  Eogland  and  France,  but  notwithstanding  that  he  hy  no  means  BUrrendered 
the  coimtry  with  iadiflerence  :  on  the  contrary,  while  he  did  not  punish  iiia  cousin, 
he  exposed  the  second  in  command  for  two  mouths  in  a  wootlen  collar  on  the 
banks  of  the  Amur,  Two  years  later,  when  the  French  and  EngUsli  armies  had 
advanced  to  Pekin,  and  when  General  Ignatief  was  negotiating  with  regard  td 
the  frontiers,  the  pressnre  of  drcumstancea  snrrounding  the  Imperial  Court  waa 
such  as  1o  leave  them  no  option  hut  to  concede  whatever  Hussia  chose  to  take. 
Still  be  did  not  believe  that  the  Chinese  now  contemplated  any  attempt  to  recover 
the  20^  of  coMt-!ine,  They  were  epeading  vast  suma  upon  the  purcbaso  of  Krupp 
gnus  and  the  manufacture  of  arms,  but  there  were  very  good  reasons  why  they 
should  do  so.  Ever  sinco  1860  foreiguers  had  been  hammering  away  at  China  to 
adopt  their  steamers  and  rail  way  a,  and  bridges,  and  arms^  and  to  drill  troops ;  it 
therefore  cotild  not  be  wondered  at  that  they  were  taking  steps  to  defend  themselvei. 
He  rejoiced  to  hear  such  an  excellent  account  as  Mr,  James  had  given  of  the  climate 
and  couDtry  of  Manchuria,  One  of  tlie  early  writers  said  of  it,  **  Although  it  u 
doubtful  in  what  part  of  the  world  the  Creator  may  have  placed  Paradise,  it  is 
nnquestionable  that  Pamdise  could  not  have  been  placed  in  Manchuria,  and  tKia 
1  infer  from  the  aridity  of  the  soil  and  the  frigidity  of  the  climate/  The  tobacco  of 
Manchuria  was  extremely  esteemed  in  Cliina,  and  watj  a  source  of  considerahl© 
revenue  at  Peltln.  There  was  a  very  heavy  octroi  laid  upon  it  at  Pekiog, 
and  it  was  a  Government  monopoly.  But  ^lancliuria  by  no  means  ^  took  the 
lead  among  the  poppy  producing  provinces  of  the  empire.  He  was  glad  of  the 
opportunity  of  gainsaying  the  assertion  that  Englishmen  introduced  opium  into 
China,  It  was  introduced  there  by  the  Portuguese,  near  the  end  of  the  16th  century^ 
and  when  its  imix>rtation  became  so  serious  a  question  between  China  and  England, 
it  was  already  grown  to  an  enormous  extent  in  China  itself.  At  the  time  of  the 
war  in  1839  the  English  importation  into  the  country  would  not  have  supplied  one 
per  cent,  of  the  population,  and  within  seven  years  of  that  date  the  poppy  was 
ascertained  to  be  cultivated  in  ten  of  the  eighteen  provinces;  that  grown  in  Kansu 
being  si>oken  of  as  rivalling  the  foreign  opium.  He  congratulated  Mr,  James  on 
having  penetrated  the  mystery  of  the  Chiang  Fai  Shan,  the  Long  White  Mountaina. 
Owing  to  a  confusion  between  ch^anf^^  perj>otunl,  and  cha^tig^  long,  the  range  had  been 
snpixjsed  to  be  covered  with  eternal  snow,  which  would  have  justified  llie  assertion  cf 
diflerent  travellers  that  tliey  were  so  many  thousand  feet  high.  The  Chinese  got  rid 
of  the  questloQ  by  sometimes  saying  they  were  10,000  feet,  and  sometimes  100,000 
feet  high.  Mr.  James,  kowever,  haii  discovered  that  the  whiteness  w^as  not  owing  to 
snow,  bnt  to  a  pumice  stone.  The  lake  which  had  been  mentioned  had  a  foremost 
place  in  the  consideration  of  the  present  dynasty.  The  legend  was  that  years  ago 
three  ladies  were  liathing  there,  when  one  waa  met  by  a  stork,  which  laid  some  fruit 
on  her  lap,  and  she  became  the  mother  of  the  Manebu  race,  which  now  reigned  in 
China.  The  ilanchus  therefore  had  brought  themselves  to  regard  the  Ch*ang  Pai  Shan 
aa  Bacred  ground,  and  it  bad  been  the  subject  of  compositions  both  in  prcwo  and 
verse  of  the  great  emperor  Kien-lung,  who  reigned  in  the  middle  of  the  last  century. 
In  a  paper  preserved  in  an  admirable  geography,  prepared  about  100  years  ago, 
Odoli  was  specially  mentioned  by  him  as  being  about  500  miles  to  the  east*^ 
probably  north-east  was  meant^ — of  a  city  calkd  Hsing  Ching,  where  were  the  tomb* 
of  all  the  early  emperors  of  the  dynasty,  and  which  was  famous  in  past  ages  as  tho 
capital  of  the  race  from  w^hick  the  Manchus  were  descended.  He  suspected  that  it 
would  be  found  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Tung  Ching  Cheng,  the  eastern  capital  of 
an  ancient  powtr.    He  hoped  that  Mr.  James's  interesting  journey  would  encourage 


A  JOURNEY  IN  MANCHUMA.— DISCUSSION.  567 

•other  travellers  to  make  the  attempt  to  decide  the  position  of  Odoli,  in  the  existence 
of  which  he  had  the  fullest  faith. 

Mr.  James  said  that  Mr.  Ross,  the  accomplished  author  of  '  The  Manchas,*  was 
of  opinion  that  the  Manchas  were  unable  to  locate  Odoli  at  all :  on  the  other  hand, 
M.  Boyer,  the  Roman  Catholic  coadjutor  bishop  of  Manchuria,  thought,  with  Sir 
Thomas  Wade,  that  Tung  Ching  Chgng  was  probably  about  the  site  of  it.  The 
description  of  Tung  Ching  ChSng  did  not,  however,  agree  with  that  given  by  Vhre 
Du  Halde,  who  said  it  was  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  lake,  with  lofty  staircases,  and 
a  causeway  approaching  it  Mr.  Ross's  researches  led  him  to  the  conclusion  that 
the  cradle  of  the  Manchn  race  was  in  the  valley  south,  not  east,  of  the  Ch'ang  Pal 
Shan,  called  Huatoola,  at  a  place  known  as  Lao-chSng,  or  old  town,  and  afterwards 
at  Hing-Eing,  where  there  was  at  the  present  day  only  an  insignificant  yamen. 
Hing-King  was  situated  a  few  miles  to  the  east  of  Timg-ling,  the  tombs  of  the 
£mperor*s  ancestors,  the  place  marked  as  Yenden  or  Shing-kiug  on  the  maps.  It 
was  certainly  a  fact  that  the  Russians  began  exploring  the  mouth  of  the  Amur  as 
•early  as  1847,  and  in  1851  the  towns  of  Nikolayevsk  and  Mariinsh  were  founded  on 
the  Lower  Amur,  followed  by  two  others  in  1853.  But  it  was  during  the  Crimean 
war  they  found  how  useful  the  river  was.  With  regard  to  the  Mandarins,  when  he 
was  there  the  Governor-Generalship  of  Tsitsihar  was  vacant,  the  officer  holding  that 
post  having,  so  it  was  said,  just  been  dismissed  for  corruption ;  so,  though  it  might 
be  possible,  he  feared  it  was  hardly  likely  that  it  was  an  exceptional  state  of 
things  that  he  met  with. 

Mr.  H.  H.  HowoBTH  drew  attention  to  the  enormous  amoimt  of  information 
published  by  the  Russians  in  the  '  Peking  Mission.*  In  one  volume  which  had 
been  translated  into  German,  there  was  a  most  elaborate  discussion  with  regard  to 
old  sites,  including  Odoli,  and  the  towns  from  which  the  Manchus  sprang.  One 
race,  which  had  virtually  disappeared  from  history,  had  a  small  fragment  still 
remaining, — the  famous  dynasty  of  the  Ehetans.  There  was  one  tribe,  which 
supplied  a  large  number  of  bannermen  to  the  Chinese  army,  called  the  Solans.  It 
would  be  interesting  to  know  if  Mr.  James  had  come  into  contact  with  them,  and 
had  collected  a  vocabulary  of  any  of  their  words.  He  believed  there  was  no  doubt 
that  they  were  descendants  from  the  old  race  which  blended  the  Mongols  and 
Manchurians  proper. 

Sir  Thos.  Wadb  said  the  Solans  were  regarded  as  the  cream  of  the  Manchus. 
With  regard  to  Tung-ching-chang,  the  word  ching  indicated  the  residence  of  the 
Emperor,  and  at  one  time  the  Khetan  dynasty  had  five  capitals. 

The  Pbesident  congratulated  the  Society  on  having  listened  to  such  an  ex- 
tremely interesting  paper.  Very  little  was  known  about  Manchuria,  and  if  any  one 
thought  there  was  any  difficulty  about  finding  a  field  for  geographical  research  in 
the  future,  he  should  now  be  satisfied  that  there  was  plenty  of  groimd  still  to  be 
explored. 


668 


THE  ABORIGINAL  ISDIAX  RACES 


The  Aboriffiual  Indian  Races  of  the  State  of  Vera  Oruz,  Mexico, 

By  A.  Baker,  British  Consd,  Vera  Cruz.* 

TiiE  origin  of  tlie  aboriginal  tribes  of  Yera  Cruz  is  involved  in  doubt ; 
they  may  have  descended  from  tho  Toltecs  or  the  AatecSp  or  from  a 
mixtnre  of  one  or  both  of  these  peoples  with  other  races.  At  tho  present 
moment  there  is  nothing  to  distinguish  these  tribes  from  each  other 
except  their  languages,  and  even  thiB  distinction  is  fast  disappearing 
before  the  advance  of  civilisation  ever  accompanied  by  the  language  ot 
the  original  conquerors— Spanish.  l<angnage  being  thus  tho  only  dis- 
tinction available,  it  will  be  as  well  to  consider  at  once  its  statistics ; 
and  to  appreciate  tho  importancje  of  the  Indian  element  in  the  population 
one  must  glance  at  the  whole.  The  following  table  gives  the  numbers 
of  the  Spanish  and  Indian  elements  of  tho  population  of  this  State, 
which  may  be  taken  at  620,000  sonls,  exclusive  of  foroignerja. 


1.  Creoles         ,     ,. 

Irt.  Iniin-Creolea  («  Mestizos  ") 
lb»  LsdiauB      »«     


f  2.  ^lexic&u 


3.  Totonaco 


Races  of  iDdlarts 
flpeakinfj  princi- 
jjally  thoir  own 
langvageA,  arid 
but  very  little 
or  no  Spanisli, 


4,  Huaatcco  .« 

5.  Otomi 

G*  Popoloeo  .. 

7.  Tepehua  .. 

S.  Zapoteeo  ., 

9.  CMtiaiiteoo 

^10.  Mayo  *• 


&9,20O 

262, IGO 

31 » 000 

irroo   I 

43 '2« 
5*00 

392,360 
161,000 

63 -26 
2C'00 

32,000 

516 

16,000 

2-58 

S,00O 
7,400 

1,400  ; 

1,200 

1-29 

1*20 

•22 

-19 

200 

•03 

440 

■07 

620,000 

100-00 

These  (J3-2G  per  cent, 
of  tbe  total  jKipula- 
tion  siieak  Bpaaiah 
OS  their  principal,  or 
only  laiipfuage. 
Spoken  in  all  parts  of  the 

IStfttu;  canton  of  Zun* 

gt^Liea  apeaka  it  almost 

excluBiTely. 
Spoken  in  tho  cantons  of 

Jalapo,  Miaantla,   P*i- 

pantla,  and  Tuxpan. 
Spoken  in  Taotayuea  and 

Tax  pan. 
Bpoken  in  Chicontepec. 
Spoken  in  Acayucan. 
Spoken  in  Chicootepeo. 
Spoken    in    GoBaiuiiiua* 

pam. 
Spoken    in    Cosamoloa- 

pam. 
Spoken  m  Tuxtla« 


As  will  be  seen  from  the  foregoing  table,  15  per  cent,  of  the  popn* 
lation  aro  Creoles,  i.  e.  descendants  of  the  Spanish  conc|uerors  and  immi- 
grants, whilst  over  43  per  cent,  are  of  mixed  race,  and  5  per  cent,  aro 
Indians  who  from  living  in  towns  and  thus  coming  in  contact  with  the 
Spanish  language  have  gradually  adopted  it  to  the  entire,  or  partial, 
exclufcion  of  their  tribal  tongnes.  Thus  the  Spanish-speaking  population 
amounts  to  63 '2G  per  cent,  of  the  whole  ;  the  remaining  36*74  per  cent* 
speaking  their  own  languages,  nine  in  number.  If  to  this  36- 74  per 
cent,  one  adds  the  5  per  cent,  of  Spanieh-speaking  Indians,  wo  arrive  at 
41  ■  74  per  cent,  as  the  total  aboriginal  proportion  of  tho  population,    TM& 

•  Communicated  by  the  Foreign  OlEce. 


OF  THE  STATE  OF  VEBA  CRUZ,  MEXICO. 


569 


proportion  is  muoh  smaller  than  in  the  other  States  of  the  Bepublic,  and 
the  explanation  may  be  found  in  the  fact  that  the  State  of  Vera  Cmz, 
by  reason  of  its  seaboard  and  its  commerce,  has  had  a  civilising  effect 
on  the  Indian,  and  has  in  great  measure  assimilated  him  (witness  the 
43  per  cent,  of  Indo-Oreoles),  and  has,  on  the  other  hand,  driven  into 
the  interior  those  Indians  for  whom  the  civilisation  offered  to  them  had 
no  charms. 

Of  the  nine  Indian  races  speaking  their  own  languages  only  one, 
the  '*  Mexican,"  is  found  in  all  the  eighteen  cantons  of  the  State :  the 
remaining  eight  races  are  found  in  considerable  numbers  in  nine  only 
of  the  cantons,  and  each  race  seems  to  restrict  itself  to  a  more  or  less 
limited  area.  The  following  list  of  these  nine  cantons,  and  one  other 
— ^Zongolica — ^ten  in  all,  gives  their  entire  population  of  each  race 
(including  the  SpanishH9peaking),  so  as  to  show  at  a  glance  the  pro- 
portion each  race  bears  to  its  neighbours ;  but  it  will  be  borne  in  mind 
that  the  cantons  in  this  list  comprise  but  144,800  of  392,360  Spanish- 
speaking  races,  and  but  91,980  of  the  161,000  '* Mexican"  speaking 
race,  the  balance  of  the  two  larger  numbers  being  distributed  over  the 
remaining  eight  cantons  of  the  State. 


List  of  Cantons  gontainino  Xatitb  Indian  PoFULATXCm,  showing  the  nomber 
of  eiich  race  speaking  its  own  language. 


rnTitAF*. 

1, 

1 

"i 

t 

W3 

2, 

d 
1 

a 

4. 

1 

5. 

6, 

7. 

1 

4 

P. 

1 

6 

10. 

s 

1.  Jal&pa    ..     .. 

a  Papantia 

$.  TiLntaji]ca     ». 
a  Gliioontepec  ,* 
7,  Acayucan 

0.  T^tlft   .,     ,. 

44,000 
7,400 
10,800 
17,000 
11,600 
11,500 
7,000 
19,000 
13,700 

2,800 

400 

680 

8,400 

13,000 

24,800 

5,050 

,     e^o 

15,000 

9,500 
4,200 
9, GOO 
8,400 

4,700 
10,700 

,7,800 

•  * 

7,400 

1,400 

"* 

9S0 

200 

430 

10«  Eongolica 

HS,500 

i,aoo 

71^980 
20,000 

31,700 

15,400 

7,800 

7,400 

1,400 

9^ 

200 

430 

I44,S00£»l,dS0 

1 

,. 

- 

- 

» 

- 

». 

570 


THE  ABORIGINAL  INDIAN  RACES 


In  the  above  ten  cjantone  the  SpaniBh-Bpeaking  amount  to  144,800, 
whilst  the  non-Spanibh  tspoakiug  races  number  157,260. 

The  most  important  langnage  (next  to  Spanish)  Is,  as  will  bo  seen,  the 
sfvcalletl  *'  Mexican/'  spoken  by  26  per  cent,  of  the  whole  population  of 
the  State,  and  the  canton  of  Zongolica  has  been  added  to  the  above  list 
because  in  that  canton  Mexican  is  sp>okeu  by  20,000  of  its  entire  popu- 
lation of  21,300,  the  odd  1300  only  being  SpaniBh-speaking.  The 
explanation  of  this  fact  is  that  the  canton  of  Zongolica  is  mountainous 
and  difficult  of  access,  and  has  thtis  escaped  almost  entirely  the  invasion 
of  the  Euroi>ean,  so  that  the  original  tribe  (Mexican)  has  been  there 
undisturbed. 

In  the  mountainous  districts  of  Tuxpan,  Tantayuca,  and  Chioontepec 
(forming  a  crescent  from  the  coast  inwards),  and  of  Tuxtla  round  the 
volcano  of  San  Andre,  this  tribe  (the  Mexican)  has  held  its  ground  and 
is  much  superior  in  numbers  to  the  Spanish-speaking  races* 

Next  in  importance  to  the  **  Mexican  '*  comes  the  Totonaca  tribe 
numbering  31,700,  and  occupying  an  irregular  strip  of  mountainoua 
territory  about  200  kilometres  long  by  50  broad,  and  extending  over 
parts  of  four  cantons,  viz,  Jalapa,  Miaantla,  Papantla,  and  Tuxpan. 

The  Huastoco  tribe,  15,400  strong,  inhabit  the  adjoining  cantons  of 
Tuxpan  and  Tantayuca*  The  Otomi  tribe,  78,000,  has  its  stronghold  in 
Chicontepec,  and  tho  Popoloco,  7400,  in  Acayucan.  The  Tepehua  is  a 
small  tribe  of  1400,  and  is  settled  in  Chicontepec. 

The  only  tribes  in  the  state  of  Vera  Cruz,  south  of  tho  city  of  Vera 
Cruz,  are  the  Mexican  and  the  Popoloco  already  mentionetl,  and  tho 
Zapateco,  i>50,  and  Chinanteco  200,  both  in  CoeamaliSapam,  and  the 
Mayo,  4.^0,  in  Tuxtla,  And  it  will  bo  observed  that  it  is  chiefly  in  tho 
lowlands  that  the  native  Indian,  or  at  all  events  bis  language,  is  con- 
apicuoufily  absent. 

The  native  Indian  is  somewhat  shorter  than  the  European,  and 
although  he  is  thin  he  is  **  wiry,'*  and  capable  of  enduring  fatigue  and 
hardship  even  better  than  the  white  man  or  negro.  His  skin  is  fine 
and  soft,  his  colour  ranges  from  broTi\Tiish- yellow  to  nearly  white, 
accordiug  to  climate  (for  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz  presents  three  distinct 
climates ;  tropical  near  the  coast,  temperate  at  elevations  of  4000  feet, 
and  frigid  above  9000  feet).  His  forehead  is  broad,  but  not  very  high, 
and  bis  coarse  black  hair  falls  in  straight  lines  over  it,  giving  it  the 
appearance  of  being  even  lower  than  it  is.  His  eyes  are  small  but  keen, 
ver}-  black,  and  being  deeply  set  in  their  sockets  give  their  owner  an 
air  of  ferocity  rather  characteristic  of  hia  sad  history  than  indicative 
of  his  present  character.  Hia  nose  is  large  but  not  ill-shaped,  being 
generally  aquiline.  His  cheek-bones  are  pronoimced  and  lend  fcome 
support  to  the  theory  of  the  Indian^s  Mongolian  origin.  His  limbs, 
though  spare,  are  muscular,  and  he  carries  heavy  burdens  long  distanceB 
with  less  fatigue  than  a  European. 


: 


OF  THE  STATE  OF  VERA  CRUZ,  MEXICO.  571 

Neither  the  male  nor  the  female  Indian  is  remarkable  for  personal 
beauty,  which  may  account  for  the  limited  extent  to  which  the  European 
and  Indian  races  have  mixed.  The  Indian  woman  is  almost  as  strong 
physically  as  her  husband,  and  she  generally  brings  her  children  into 
the  world  without  assistance.  It  is  true  that  a  large  proportion  of  the 
children  die  in  infancy,  unable  to  battle  with  the  hardship  of  their 
surroundings,  and  this  mortality  has  the  effect  of  restraining  the  increase 
of  the  Indian  race  and  of  maintaining  its  physical  standard  by  the 
action  of  "  the  survival  of  the  fittest." 

The  Indian  is  decidedly  brave  and  fights  well  on  the  side  (whichever 
it  is)  which  has  enlisted  him,  or  rather  pressed  him  into  its  service. 
But  he  has  no  sentiment  of  patriotism,  or  rather  his  patriotism  is  tribal 
and  has  little  or  nothing  in  common  with  that  of  the  ruling  white  race, 
to  whom  he  has  been,  since  the  conquest,  nothing  more  than  a  hewer  of 
wood  and  drawer  of  water.  He  is  industrious  where  he  sees  an  oppor- 
tunity of  enjoying  the  fruits  of  his  labours,  but  he  is  inclined  to  be 
lazy  when  he  is  in  the  service  of  hard  masters  at  the  starvation  rate  of 
wages — 2  reales,  lOd.,  per  day — which  is  but  too  general. 

The  Indian  possesses  a  large  imagination,  and  exercises  it,  from 
what  he  considers  necessity,  as  extensively  as  the  Bussian  does  for 
amusement,  but  he  has  no  more  of  this  vice  of  slaves  than  his  past 
history  would  lead  one  to  expect. 

The  Indian  is  honest,  and  seldom  yields  to  even  the  greatest  tempta- 
tion to  steal.  His  honesty  is  natural,  while  his  untruthfulness  is 
evidently  only  acquired  as  a  weapon  against  what  he  considers  the 
tyranny  of  the  ruling  race. 

As  a  rule  the  Indian  is  sober,  though,  like  other  races,  he  often 
drowns  bis  troubles  in  alcohol,  generally  in  the  shape  of  pvdgue  (juice 
of  the  maguey  plant),  or  aguardiente  (spirits.) 

The  Indian  is  religious,  indeed  superstitious,  and  is  very  much 
under  the  influence  of  the  clergy,  the  only  class  that  has  taught  him 
that  he  is  a  man ;  for  the  conquerors  by  word  and  deed  denied  him  the 
possession  of  a  soul,  and  their  successors  have  often  forgotten  the  finot 
that  the  question  was  decided  by  a  council  in  the  afiirmative.  It  might 
be  thought  that  the  conversion  of  the  aboriginal  races  to  the  religion  of 
their  conquerors  would  have  softened  the  asperities  of  their  relative 
position,  but  it  has  had  in  this  State  a  contrary  effect;  for  the  common 
religion  taught  the  Indian  that  he  was  entitled  to  the  rights  of  citizen- 
ship, whilst  his  conquerors  denied  him  those  rights,  and  used  him  as 
a  beast  of  burden  in  peace  and  as  "  food  for  cannon "  in  war.  The 
Indian  to  this  day  believes  that  the  *'  white  "  civilisation  is  condemned 
by  the  religion,  and  the  priests  of  the  religion,  it  brought  in  its  train ; 
and  to  this  belief  may  be  traced  the  Indian's  unbounded  suspicion  of  the 
white  man.  This  suspicion  is  ever  asserting  itself.  When  the  Spaniards 
quitted  the  country  they  attempted  to  carry  with  them  more  treasure 


572 


tHE  ABORIGINAL  ENDIAK  RACES 


than  they  could  transport  to  the  coast,  and  they  had  to  ahandon  largo 
caravans  of  precious  metals.  These  they  buried  in  the  ground  with  the 
aasistance  of  their  Indian  carters,  men  and  boys ;  they  then  killed  the 
grown-up  carters  to  prevent  their  Btealing  the  treasure,  but  they  often 
spared  the  boys,  simply  carrying  them  off  long  journeys  away  from  the 
points  where  the  treasure  was  buried.  There  are  still  IndxaDs  alive  who 
know,  or  think  they  know,  of  these  buried  treasures,  and  they  would  be 
entitled  to  a  large  share  of  them  if  they  *'  denounced  "  them  -  but  their 
suspicion  of  the  white  man  is  bo  great  that  they  will  not  take  him  into 
their  confidence  on  any  terms,  satisfied  that  if  they  told  him  of  the 
treaaure  he  would  keep  it  all  for  himself  in  spite  of  law  and  justice  !  and 
80  the  hidden  treasure  remains  unfound. 

The  Indian  is  decidedly  intelligent,  and  has,  when  occasion  cbanced 
to  present  itself,  shone  in  art,  poetry,  diplomacy,  and  statesmanship.  It 
h  only  fifteen  years  ago  that  Benito  Juarez  died  President  of  tho 
Republic;  he  was  an  Indian  of  unmixed jace,  and  he  lived  at  an  epoch 
of  Mexican  history  when  intelligence  and  strength  of  character  were 
necessary  qualities  for  success  in  pablic  affairs,  either  military  or  civil. 

The  condition  of  tho  Indian  since  the  Independence,  and  pai*ticularly 
since  the  "  laws  of  reform,"  has  no  doubt  been  ameliorated  in  some 
me&Bure,  but  in  no  sense  radically.  And  unfortunately  neither  Benito 
Juarez  nor  any  other  Indian  who  has  achieved  power  and  influence  has 
found  time  or  opportunity  for  assisting  his  race.  The  general  policy 
has  been  not  to  establish  the  Indian  on  the  soil  he  is  so  capable 
of  tilling,  but  to  hand  it  over  to  foreign  colonists.  The  experiments  of 
foreign  colonisation  made  in  this  State  have,  bowever,  not  been  very  sno- 
ceesful,  and  one  of  them — ^of  Southern  Italians— has  been  a  disastrous 
and  expensive  failure.  The  Indian's  connection  with  the  soil  is  still  the 
humble  one  of  agricultural  labourer^  with  wages  sufficient,  it  is  true,  to 
keep  body  and  soul  together,  hut  insufficient  to  provide  decent  housing 
or  clothing. 

The  Indian  is  still  pressed  into  the  army,  and  being  poor,  imnnot 
often  enforce  his  conutitutional  rights  in  the  matter,  though  that  such 
righta  exist  is  proved  by  tho  number  of  appeals  to  the  courts  which 
Indians  with  well-to-do  friends  are  able  to  prosecute. 

He  is  almost  entirely  unedticated.  Ho  is  taught  little  by  his 
masters,  spiritual  or  temporal ;  and  what  he  does  learn  he  generally 
learns  in  tho  barracks,  and  under  such  uncongenial  circumstances,  that 
he  deserts  his  barracks  and  barrack-school  on  the  first  opportunity, 
although  his  home  has  no  material  attractions  of  any  sort,  being  simply 
a  wattled  mud  hut. 

In  short,  the  Indian,  in  spite  of  his  legal  rights  of  equality,  ia  in 
fact  still  the  hewer  of  wood  and  drawer  of  water  ho  always  has  been  to 
the  race  that  brought  him  civilisation  and  religion,  the  latter  of  which 
only  has  he  been  able  to  assimilato  and  share  with  his  conquerors. 


OF  THE  STATE  OF  VERA  CRUZ,  MEXICO.  678 

What  will  be  the  ultimate  &te  of  the  Indian  in  this  country  is  a 
very  grave  question,  and  its  answer  is  at  present  doubtful.  Some  think 
he  will  entirely  disappear  before  the  superior  white  race — ^that  the 
little  of  his  blood  that  flows  with  white  in  the  same  yeins  will,  each 
generation,  become  less  and  less,  till  all  trace  of  it  be  lost  with  aban- 
doned pedigrees,  and  his  existence  become  a  matter  of  remote  history. 
Others,  and  these  seem  the  more  numerous,  have  faith  in  the  physical^ 
mental,  and  moral  qualities  of  the  Indian,  and  believe  he  will  ultimately 
'*  colonise  "  his  native  land,  cultivate  its  rich  and  boundless  fields  and 
prairies,  learn  to  have  '*  necessities  "  and  to  consume  manufetctures,  and 
in  a  word  become  a  civilised  citizen,  enriching  commerce  and  the  State 
by  his  intelligent  agriculture. 

Amongst  those  who  have  faith  in  the  future  of  the  Indian  must  be 
numbered  Mr.  Bafael  de  Zayas  Enriquez,  who  has  just  published  an 
able  work  on  the  subject,  under  the  title  of  *The  Redemption  of  a 
Bace.'  Mr.  Zayas  is  an  advocate  and  a  journalist  (proprietor  and  editor 
of  the  FerrihcarrU^  a  daily  newspaper  published  in  Vera  Cruz).  In 
politics  he  is  a  supporter  of  the  present  Government,  and  he  dedicates 
his  work  to  President  Diaz.  But  the  work  itself  is  in  no  sense  political, 
and  as  regards  the  position  of  the  Indian,  it  metes  out  praise  and 
blame,  and  particularly  blame,  with  perfect  impartiality  to  all  the 
administrations,  of  whatever  party,  that  have  existed  in  Mexico  since 
the  Independence. 

Mr.  Zayas  deals  with  the  whole  Indian  population  of  the  Bepublio 
(7,000,000  in  number),  and  therefore  covers  a  much  larger  area  than  does 
this  report,  but  his  conclusions  are  as  applicable  to  the  State  of  Vera 
Cruz  as  to  the  other  States  of  the  Bepublio,  and  as  Mr.  Zayas's  views 
are  shared  by  a  considerable  number  of  patriotic  public  men,  it  may  be 
well  to  quote  them  on  the  subject  of  the  future  of  the  Indian  and  what 
should  be  done  to  assure  it 

Mr.  Zayas  is  of  opinion  that  the  present  laws  are  quite  adequate  to 
the  protection  of  the  Indian,  and  that  all  that  is  required  is  to  take 
means  for  their  impartial  application  to  Indian  and  white  man  alike. 
To  attain  this  end  he  would  establish,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Govern- 
ment, in  each  State,  "  societies  for  the  redemption  of  the  Indian  "  (just 
as  in  Europe  one  establishes  societies  for  the  protection  of  animals). 

These  societies  would  encourage  the  education  of  the  Indian,  protect 
him  from  all  imposition  on  the  part  of  his  master,  arbitrate  between 
him  and  his  master  in  case  of  doubtful  disputes,  protect  him  from  being 
pressed  illegally  into  the  military  service,  supplying  the  necessary  funds 
for  carrying  his  complaint  to  the  tribunals,  encourage  him  to  join  benefit 
societies  and  to  deposit  his]money  in  savings  banks  instead  of  hiding  it, 
encourage  him  to  live  on  the  plains  and  near  roads  instead  of  in  the 
inaccessible  forests  and  mountains. 

Whether  these  means  will  be  adopted,  and,  if  adopted,  will  prove 


574 


LVDIAN  SURVEYS,  188^-6. 


adequate  to  the  *'  redemption  of  the  Indian "  ie  a  question  that  time 
alone  can  solve.  But  it  docs  seem  highly  probahle  that  a  sparsely 
populated  coimtry  like  this  and  the  other  States  of  the  Mexican  Republic 
will,  sooner  or  later,  direct  its  serious  attention  to  its  Indian  races  and 
their  capacity  for  cultivating  its  rich  soil,  not  as  serfs,  but  as  farmers  or 
even  peasant  proprietors.  And  if  once  the  Indian  succeed  in  regaining  a 
stake  in  his  country,  then  indeed  there  will  be  no  doubt  of  his  redemp- 
tion.    But  will  he? 

Veba  Ciiuz,  Juhj  22nif,  1887. 


Indian  Surveys^  1885^. 

The  record  of  work  of  tho  Indian  Surveys  for  the  year  1885-6,  under  the 
direction  of  Lieut.-Coloiiel  H.  K.  Thnillier,  k.e.,  officiating  surveyor-general,  is 
noticeable  for  the  completion  of  the  work  of  the  Afgbao  Boundary  Commission. 
Althougli  there  was  much  delay  in  the  settlement  of  the  actual  boundary,  this  delay 
was  turned  to  good  account  hy  Colonel  Holdich  and  Captains  Gore  and  Talbot,  who 
by  makiag  the  most  of  every  opportunity  that  presented  itself,  and  being  efficiently 
aided  hj  some  of  their  brotlier*officerB,  not  to  mention  the  valuiible  assistance  given 
hy  members  of  tbe  native  staff  who  penetmted  into  regions  where  it  was  daugerotiti 
for  the  Europeans  to  venture,  succeeded  in  makiag  a  reconimisBaticc  Burvey  of  a  very 
largiB  portion  of  Afghanistan,  amountinj;  to  an  area  of  upwards  of  120,000  square 
miles.  The  whole  of  this  work  ia  ba&ed  on  a  network  of  triangnlation  mainly 
executed  by  Captain  Talbot,  extending  from  Mashhad  in  the  west,  on  the  position 
of  which  (determioed  by  Captain  Gore)  the  longitudes  depend,  to  beyond  Oabul  on 
the  east  and  to  Farah  on  the  south,  a  connection  giving  the  work  a  value  far  beyond 
that  generally  appertaining  to  geographical  surveys.  Sjiecial  maps  of  Herat,  Bala, 
Murghab,  Maruchak,  and  other  strongholds  have  been  prepared,  while  the  boundary 
deooarcation  itself  is  represented  by  a  map  in  five  sheets  of  the  combined  RuBsian 
and  EngUsh  topography,  showing  a  strip  of  eight  miles  adjoining  the  boundary,  on 
ihe  scale  of  half  an  inch  to  the  mile ;  one  copy  of  the  English  topography  on  the 
quarter-inch  scalo  showing  the  boundary  in  relation  to  the  roads,  rivers^  and  jiassea 
over  to  the  mountains  to  the  south,  in  three  sheets,  and  special  maps  of  the  country 
between  Baulatabad  and  the  Oxus,  and  of  the  Khamiab  district,  regarding  which 
negotiations  have  since  been  concluded  in  St.  Petersburg.  At  the  suggestion  of 
the  Secretary  of  State  for  India,  Colonel  Holdich  has  prepared  an  interesting  report 
on  the  geographical  work  of  the  boundary,  and  as  this  has  been  deisignedly  written 
for  publication,  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  its  appearance  may  not  be  long  delayed. 

Colonel  Holdich  will  bIso  hereafter  i>repare  a  general  report,  w  hick  ivill  include 
the  great  body  of  the  computations,  and  form,  with  previous  reports  on  Afghanistan, 
a  complete  synoptical  volume  of  the  survey  of  India  series.  The  duty  of  under- 
taking the  preparation  of  the  entire  series  of  maps  and  of  constructing  one  general 
map  of  Afglianistan,  has  been  entrusted  to  Captain  Gore,  b.e.,  who  is  now  engaged 
on  the  work  in  India,  In  connection  with  tlie  Boundary  Survey,  it  may  bo  men- 
tioned that  interesting  refjorts  have  been  written  by  individual  officers  of  very 
imperfectly  known  tracts,  such  as  one  by  Captain  the  Hon.  JI,  G.  Talbot,  of 
Daulaty&r,  Haibak,  and  the  Balka  survey  (a  notice  of  which  appeared  in  our 
'  Proceedings  *),  a  report  by  Sub-surveyor  Mira  Sing  on  tho  Fimzkuhi  country,  and 


INDIAN  SURVEYS,  1885-6.  675 

by  Sub-gurveyor  Imam  Sharif  on  the  Taimani  country  and  the  districts  south  of 
Herat.  In  the  second  of  these  reports  light  is  shed  on  the  formation  of  au 
important  mountain  range  of  Northern  Afghanistan,  the  Band-i-Torkestan,  which 
is  described  as  a  separate  mountain  system  from  the  Paropamisus,  the  connecting 
link  between  the  two  on  the  east  being  an  insignificant  watershed  formed  by  an 
irregular  ridge  of  soft  clay  and  sand.  Its  configuration  is  that  of  a  series  of 
approximately  horizontal  plateaux,  occasionally  divided  laterally  by  sheltered 
valleys,  and  singularly  accessible  along  the  main  watershed.  The  source  of  the 
Hari  Bud,  according  to  Captain  Talbot's  researches,  proved  to  be  at  an  altitude  of 
some  12,000  feet  above  sea-level,  about  latitude  34°  SO'  and  longitude  67°  O',  and 
flows  for  some  70  or  80  miles,  under  the  name  of  the  Ab-i-Sar-i-jangal,  to  Daulatyar, 
almost  due  west,  and  in  a  different  direction  from  that  hitherto  shown  on  our  maps. 
In  Imam  Sharifs  journey  through  the  Taimani  country  one  interesting  identification 
was  the  Chalopdalan  or  Chahil  Abdal  peak,  a  solitary  mountain,  12,000  feet  in 
height,  said  to  be  the  "  Takht "  of  Zohak-i-Maran,  the  snake-bearing  governor  of  these 
provinces  in  the  days  of  Ghur,  and  it  was  from  here  that  he  built  the  massivejwalls 
and  towers  of  the  old  forts  which  surround  Taiwara,  and  border  the  way  to  Ghur. 
In  addition  .to  the  above  work,  the  survey  of  a  considerable  portion  of  Eastern 
Khorassan  has  been  executed,  and  has  recently  been  continued  by  Captain  Gore, 
who,  returning  to  India  through  Persia,  has  surveyed  the  route  from  Herat  vi& 
Birjaud  through  the  Lut  desert  to  Kirman  and  Dandar  Abbass. 

The  military  occupation  of  Upper  Burma  in  1886  afforded  scope  for  geography, 
and  Captain  Hobday,  with  a  moderate  establishment  of  surveyors,  has  been  most 
actively  engaged  on  various  important  and  diligent  pieces  of  survey  work,  chief 
nmong  which  may  be  mentioned  a  general  map  of  Upper  Burma,  from  19°  to  26^  N. 
latitude,  and  from  the  meridian  of  94°  to  98°  E.  longitude,  and  a  survey  of  the  city 
of  Mandalay  and  environs,  covering  an  area  of  about  50  square  miles.  In  Upper 
Burma  principal  triangulation  will  soon  become  necessary  for  the  accurate  adjust- 
ment of  the  military  and  topographical  surveys  which  are  being  carried  on,  but  in 
the  present  state  of  the  country  so  extensive  a  project  would  be  premature. 

One  small  party  during  the  year  ended  March  1886  was  engaged  in  secondary 
triangulation  from  Coconada  to  Masulipatam  on  the  east  coast.  Tidal  observa- 
tions were  carried  on  at  seventeen  stations,  four  of  which  were  new,  viz. 
Bhavnagar,  Cochin,  Coconada,  and  Chittagong ;  while  at  three.  Diamond  Harbour, 
Amherst,  and  Moulmein,  the  observations  have  been  discontinued,  in  consequence  of 
the  usual  period  of  five  years'  registration  having  been  completed. 

The  out-turn  of  topography  executed  during  the  year  amounts  to  19,162  square 
miles,  exclusive  of  forest  surveys,  the  bulk  of  this  being  on  the  2-inch  scale.  Three 
of  the  parties,  viz.  those  in  the  Andaman  Islands,  Cutch,  and  Mysore,  completed 
their  tasks,  and  the  first  of  these  was  deputed  to  the  Nicobars  to  undertake  a  survey 
of  those  islands.  Six  parties  were  employed  on  cadastral  surveys,  and  in  addition 
to  these  riverain,  forest,  and  traverse  surveys  were  also  in  operation. 

Colonel  Woodthorpe,  B.E.,  whose  deputation  to  join  the  Gilgit  Mission  has  been 
already  referred  to  in  the  pages  of  these  '  Proceedings,'  has  thoroughly  sustained  his 
reputation  as  a  most  able  and  intrepid  expbrer,  and  has  brought  back  a  nuus  of 
valuable  information  and  surveys,  covering  in  all  about  10,000  square  miles  of  the 
important  and  little-known  districts  of  Yasin,  Chitral,  Hunza-Nagyr,  and  Wakban. 
The  reports  and  maps,  as  well  as  those  belonging  to  the  explorations  in  Tibet  of 
M — H.  and  R — X.,  referred  to  in  the  President^  Annual  Address  (see  '  ProceediDgi' 
for  June  last,  p.  ^2),  are  under  preparation. 


(    576    ) 


GEOGElPmCAL  NOTES. 

Discovery  of  Two  New  Elvers  in  Hew  Gainea.^ — ^In  the  course  of  a 
eliort  exploratory  visit  of  bix  weeks'  duration,  in  Marcli  and  April  last,  to 
tho  delta  region  known  as  Aird  river,  our  Associato,  Mr.  Theodore  Bevan^ 
made  the  important  discovery  of  two  large  rivers,  flowing  from  the  interior 
highlands  at  a  distance  apart  of  about  60  miles,  into  that  part  of  the 
Gnlf  of  Papua,  Fumidied  by  the  liberality  of  the  enterpriging  mer- 
chants, Messrs*  Buras,  Philp,  &  Co.,  with  a  well-equipped  steamer,  the 
Vicioryy  Mr.  Bevan  and  party  left  Thursday  Island  on  the  15th  of  March, 
and  proceeding  up  the  Aird,  fonnd  a  large  navigable  stream  entering 
the  head  of  the  delta,  up  which  they  steamed  for  about  100  miles,  beside*"! 
penetrating  some  distance  up  two  of  its  tributaries.  This  river  he  has 
named  tho  Douglas*  The  second  river,  named  by  Mr*  Bevan  the  Jubilee, 
was  entered  from  Bald  Head,  and  navigated  for  about  the  same  distance 
as  the  Douglaa.  His  time  having  nearly  expired,  he  was  obliged  to 
turn  back,  when  apparently  on  the  threshold  of  most  valuable  dis- 
coveries; the  river  at  that  point  being  still  300  yards  wide,  and  the 
country  hilly  and  pictnjresque,  with  rang©  after  range  visible  towards 
the  interior,  capped  by  a  series  of  lofty  mountain  peaks  in  the  blue 
distance.  The  trip  is  stated  to  be  only  a  preliminary  one,  and  we  hope 
that  Mr.  Bevan's  successful  dash  will  be  rewarded  by  his  being  supplied 
with  the  means  of  following  up  his  discoveiy* 

Antarctic  Exploration, — The  Councils  of  the  Royal  Society  of  Yio- 
toria  and  the  Victorian  Branch  of  the  Eoyal  Geographical  Society  of 
Australasia  have  jointly  addressed,  through  Capt.  Crawford  Pasco,  r.n., 
the  President  of  the  Joint  Committee  of  the  two  societies,  a  letter  to 
Sir  Erasmus  Ommanney,  Secretary  to  the  Antarctic  Committee  of  tho 
British  Aasociation,  expressing  a  hope  that  the  expediency  of  a  national 
expedition  for  the  further  exploration  of  the  Antarctic  Regions  will  be 
urged  upon  the  Home  Government  The  Australian  Societies  them- 
selves are  contemplating,  if  funds  can  be  raised,  to  encourage  by  means 
of  money  grants  for  definite  results,  a  preliminarj'  exploration  by  private 
vessels,  partly  with  scientific,  partly  with  commercial  objects.  They 
state  that  the  cost  of  a  purely  scientific  expedition  is  more  than  any 
colony  would  defray  single-handed,  Tfhe  joint  committee  had  taken 
csonaiderable  pains  to  ascertain  whether  any  unrecorded  exploratory 
work  by  whalers  and  sealers  has  been  done  south  of  60^  since  tho 
memorable  voyage  of  Boss,  and  have  found  that  these  seamen,  one  and 
all,  have  avoided  these  high  latitudes ;  the  rough  seas  prevailing  between 
40°  and  55^  S,,  notwithstanding  the  abundance  of  fish,  being  fatal  to 
anccessful  whaling,  and  that  they  dare  not  cruise  in  the  calmer  seas 
south  of  BB*^  on  account  of  the  iee. 

Survey  Work  in  Burma. — From  Burma  wo  learn  that  Captain 
Hobday  returned  to  Mandalay  early  in  May  from  hie  trip  to  Thibaw, 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  577 

in  tho  Shan  States,  with  tho  foroo  that  accompanied  the  Tsawbwa  of 
that  place  back  to  his  capital,  after  having  been  away  just  two  months. 
He  says  that  he  and  snbHsnrveyor  Faida  Ali  managed  to  do  a  good  deal 
of  work  notwithstanding  the  hazy  state  of  the  atmosphere.  The  party 
will  remain  during  the  wet  season  at  Mandalay,  bnt  as  the  rains  are 
light,  field  work  will  be  continned  when  opportunities  occur  till  the  end 
of  July,  after  which  the  country  is  too  unhealthy  to  move  about  in.  In 
the  middle  of  November  regular  field  work  will  recommence.  Colonel 
Woodthorpe  has  managed  to  effect  a  junction  between  his  triangulation 
which  he  carried  down  the  Kyendwin  from  Manipur,  and  that  of 
Captain  Hobday,  round  Mandalay. 

Survey  of  Travancore  and  neighbouring  States. — The  Government 
of  India  have  sanctioned  a  topographical  survey  of  the  Native  States  of 
Travancore,  Cochin,  and  Pudukottai,  which  will  be  undertaken  by 
No.  19  (Madras)  party  on  the  completion  of  its  operations  in  the  Madura 
district.  Some  parts  of  the  existing  maps  of  the  mountainous  tracts  of 
Travancore  and  Cochin  are  absolutely  blank,  and  the  topography  of  the 
hills  is  quite  unreliable,  the  survey  having  been  executed  nearly  seventy 
years  ago. 

The  Eussian  Expedition  to  the  New  Siberian  Islands.  —  A  paper 
read  by  Dr.  A.  Bunge  before  the  Imperial  Geographical  Society  of  Eussia 
gives  some  details  of  the  work  accomplished  by  this  important  expedi- 
tion, to  the  progress  of  which  we  have  from  time  to  time  referred.* 
Baron  von  Toll,  the  colleague  of  Dr.  Bunge,  started  in  April  1886,  from 
Aidshergaidach  for  the  island  of  Liakov,  with  the  object  of  studying 
its  geological  character.  He  was  joined  shortly  afterwards  by  Dr. 
Bunge,  who  brought  the  rest  of  the  stores  and  provisions.  It  was  then 
decided  to  divide  the  party.  Dr.  Bunge  undertaking  an  exploration  of 
the  island  of  Liakov,  which  was  reported  to  be  especially  rich  in  bone 
fossils,  while  von  Toll  proceeded  to  the  island  of  Kotelny.  Before 
executing  this  project  tho  former  traveller  attempted  a  topographical 
survey  of  a  part  of  the  east  coast  of  Kotelny,  but  with  small  success, 
owing  to  tho  unfavourable  weather  and  the  lack  of  fuel,  which  collects 
as  driftwood  only  in  certain  localities.  He  consequently  returned  to 
the  southern  extremity  of  the  island,  where  he  killed  the  only  polar 
bear  which  was  seen  in  the  course  of  the  expedition,  and  then  crossed 
over  to  the  island  of  Liakov  on  the  25th  May.  Meanwhile,  von  Toll 
had  visited  the  islands  of  Fadeief  and  New  Siberia.  On  the  latter  he 
made  a  special  exploration  of  the  mountain  known  to  travellers  of  the 
beginning  of  the  present  century  as  the  "  wood-mountain,"  which  was 
found  to  be  a  beautiful  tertiary  profile  with  carbonised  tree-trunks  and 
a  rich  collection  of  leaf  impressions  and  fruits,  corresponding  exactly 
with  tho  tertiary  flora  of  Greenland  and  Spitzbergen,  as  described  by 

*  See  *  Pxooeedings  EG.S.,'  1887,  pp.  119  et  ante. 


578 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


Oswald  Heer.  On  returning  to  Kotelny  he  commenced  at  once  bis  er- 
plomtioB  of  the  island,  making  a  complete  circle  of  it  in  forty  days. 
From  the  northern  point  of  the  island  he  obtained  a  view  of  the  still 
nntrodden  land  of  Ssannikov ;  he  estimated  the  distance  at  about  100 
miles.  As  regards  geology »  the  northern  half  of  Kotelny  consists  of 
Devonian  strata,  while  in  the  south  Trias  formations  exist.  The  flora 
shows  Bome  thirty  species  of  lowering  plants.  The  summer  was  very 
unfavourable ;  the  temperature  only  once  rose  to  50^  Fabr.,  while  snow 
showers  fell  nearly  every  day.  The  whole  coast  was  blocked  by  ice,  and 
in  the  majority  of  valleys  the  snow  remained  througbout  the  summer. 
At  the  end  of  October,  von  Toll,  who  bad  spent  the  cohi  period  of 
September  and  October  in  a  comparatively  comfortable  winter  hut,  re- 
joined his  companion  at  Liakov*  Dn  Bunge  woe  considerably  hampered 
in  his  exploration  of  this  island  by  the  want  of  reindeer  for  the  pur- 
poses of  transport ;  by  some  mistake  the  majority  of  these  animals  were 
sent  to  Kotelny,  and  owing  to  the  advanced  season  could  not  get  back.  He 
was  able,  however^  to  do  some  good  work.  With  tho  exception  of  some 
granite  peaks  the  prevailing  formations  of  the  island  are  quaternary; 
tho  ice  blocks  are  covered  with  loamy  deposits,  in  which  are  found 
fossil  bones.  There  are  conditions  here  which  appear  to  he  exactly 
similar  to  those  at  Eschschok  Bay  in  Bebring  Straits,  Besides  the  fossil 
remains  of  the  mammoth,  rhinoceros,  and  musk  ox.  Dr.  Bunge  discovered 
remains  of  two  species  of  oxen,  dear,  horses,  and  of  some  smaller  animals, 
from  the  study  of  which  interesting  results  may  be  expected.  The  flora 
is  richer  than  that  of  Kotelny.  The  traveller  collected  about  seventy 
phanerogams.  In  small  pools,  notwithstanding  tho  frozen  ground, 
numerous  worms  and  fresb-water  Crustacea  were  found,  as  the  water 
reached  a  temperature  of  nearly  61 ""  Fabr.  The  summer  temperature 
was  practically  the  same  as  that  of  Kotelny,  although  there  were  more 
days  free  from  snow  showers*  Both  islands  are  much  poorer  in  birds 
than  might  have  been  supposed  considering  their  situation ;  tho  insect 
world  is  also  poorly  represented*  There  are  but  few  fish  on  the  island 
of  Liakov,  but  some  fine  salmon  were  found  on  Kotelny, 

Cinchona  Cultivation  in  the  Island  of  Eeunion. — Mr.  C.  L.  St  John, 
British  Consul  at  Reunion,  in  bis  Annual  Report  (No.  207)  on  the 
trade  of  the  island  speaks  of  the  plantatious  of  cinchona,  which  have 
excited  for  some  years  considerable  attention  in  Reunion,  Although 
they  have  not  yet  assumed  any  extensive  development,  the  results  are 
very  satisfactory.  The  plantations  are  made  at  an  altitude  of  about 
4000  feet,  where  no  high  trees  exist,  but  merely  brushwood.  Parallel 
alleys  from  five  to  six  feet  wide  are  formed  in  spots  sheltered^  if 
possible ,  from  the  violent  winds  so  oommon  in  Reunion.  These  alleys 
are  separated  by  ranges  of  brushwood  10  feet  wide,  which  serve  to 
protect  the  young  cinchona  plants  from  the  wind.  The  latter  ore 
planted  in  prepared  eoil  15  feet  apart.     The  plants  thus  grow  without 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  679 

diffionlty,  oare  being  taken  to  keep  them  free  from  tlie  roots  of  the 
brush-wood.  At  the  end  of  seven  or  eight  years  they  reach  a  diameter 
of  3^  inches,  and  are  ready  to  be  worked.  Abont  the  month  of  October, 
when  the  sap  resumes  its  upward  movement,  the  plants  are  cnt  down  at 
abont  two  inches  from  the  ground.  The  bark  is  then  taken  ofif  and  laid 
in  the  sun  to  dry.  From  the  stump  a  large  number  of  yoxmg  shoots 
«oon  spring,  which  have  a  rapid  growth,  so  that  at  the  end  of  seven  or 
eight  years  a  new  crop  is  ready.  In  this  way  the  cultivation  of  the 
cinchona,  when  once  started,  can  be  kept  up  at  little  expense. 

The  Discovery  of  the  Congo. — The  Yisconde  de  Sanches  de  Baena 
claims  to  have  shed  a  clear  light  upon  the  disputed  chronologies  of 
Diogo  Cao's  (Cam)  voyages  to  the  west  coast  of  Africa.  A  careful 
examination  of  unpublished  documents  has  led  him  to  the  conclusion 
that  Cao  started  on  his  first  voyage  in  1482,  and  remained  away  nine- 
teen months.  It  was  during  this  voyage  that  he  set  up  the  jpedrapadrao 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Congo,  fragments  of  which  have  recently  been  dis- 
covered by  Senhor  Fran9a  and  Baron  Schwerin,  or  rather  rediscovered, 
as  Sir  E.  Burton  described  these  same  fragments  in  '  A  Trip  to  Oorilla 
Land  and  the  Congo.*  After  his  return  Diogo  Cao  was  granted  a  coat  of 
armsy  the  patent  of  which  is  dated  Santarem,  April  14th,  1484.  He  set 
out  on  a  second  voyage  in  1485,  in  the  course  of  which  he  erected  similar 
stone  pillars  on  Cape  Agostinho  and  Cape  Cross.  If  this  chronology  is 
correct,  the  legend  on  Behaim's  globe,  which  informs  us  that  the  pillar  at 
Cape  Cross  was  erected  on  January  18th,  1485,  can  scarcely  be  correct. 
Peschel*  assumes  that  Diogo  Cao  only  performed  one  voyage,  from 
which  he  returned,  after  an  absence  of  nineteen  months,  in  1486. 
Major  t  says  that  the  Congo  was  discovered  in  1484,  and  that  the  pillars 
further  to  the  south  were  set  up  during  a  second  voyage  in  1485.$ 

Blue  Kountain  Peak,  Jamaica. — According  to  a  careful  series  of 
observations,  taken  with  exceUent  instruments,  by  Mr.  Maxwell  Hall, 
in  November  last,  the  height  of  the  Blue  Mountain  Peak,  Jamaica 
(north-western  summit),  is  7423  feet  above  sea-level.  The  mean  tem- 
perature of  the  air  on  the  peak  has  been  shown  by  the  same  accurate 
observer,  after  applying  the  due  correction  to  a  long  series  of  readings 
taken  during  1885-6,  to  be,  max.  71°' 1,  min.  46° '3.  As  a  result  of 
observations  on  temperature  and  elevation  made  at  successive  altitudes 
from  the  sea-level  to  the  summit,  Mr.  Hall  concludes  that  14,000  feet 
would  be  the  lower  limit  of  perpetual  snow  for  Jamaica,  the  pressure  at 
that  height  being  18  inches,  corresponding  to  a  mean  temperature  of  32°, 

The  Bahamas. — ^In  a  recent  official  report,  Mr.  H.  A.  Blake,  Governor 
of  the  Bahamas,  gives  an  interesting  general  description  of  this  extensive 

*  *  Geschichte  des  Zeitalters  der  Entdeckungen,'  p.  69. 
t  *  Princo  Henry  the  Navigator.' 
X  '  Boletin '  Lisbon  Geographical  Society,  1886,  pp.  55-6. 
No.  TX.— Skft.  1887.]  2  t 


580 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


group  of  low  islands,  founded  partly  on  the  ecientifio  investigationB  of 
Mr.  J,  Oardiner  (B.Se,  London).  He  says  the  numerons  islands  and 
ifilete  forming  the  gixjup  lia  mostly  on  the  eastward  or  windward  edges 
of  the  Bahama  banks,  and  vary  in  size  from  Andros  (100  miles  long  by 
20  to  40  miles  wide)  to  mere  rocks*  The  banlcs  cover  an  area  of  about 
43,000  square  miles,  of  which  only  about  4400  are  above  water.  They 
rise  very  abruptly  from  ocean  depths,  varying  from  500  fathoms  on  the 
western  to  2000  fathoms  on  the  eastern  side,  and  are  indented  by  twa 
submarine  gorges  from  800  to  1000  fathoms  in  depth.  The  islands  ar^ 
formed  of  coral-sand  sod  shells,  consolidated  into  rook  by  the  action  of 
rain-water  dissolving  lime  from  the  weathered  upper  layers,  and  binding 
the  lower  with  infiltrated  carbonate  of  lime.  There  are  three  distinct 
kinds  of  soil  on  the  itdands— white,  black,  and  red*  The  white  is  com- 
posed of  calcareous  sand,  with  a  certain  proportion  of  organic  matter,  and 
is  suitable,  when  fertilisers  are  used,  for  the  growth  of  potatoes  and  other 
vegetables.  The  black  soil  is  mainly  vegetable  mould,  and  very  fertile ; 
it  ocours  everywhere  in  the  islands,  in  some  places  (called  ^*  Banana 
holes,")  to  a  considerable  depth*  The  red  earth  is  the  most  important 
and  fertile  of  all,  and  closely  resembles  that  of  the  Bermudas  in  its 
composition,  containing  a  large  proportion  of  oxide  of  iron.  It  occnrB 
in  larger  or  smaller  patches  in  all  the  islands,  and  in  Eleuthera  and  Cat 
Island  covers  thousands  of  acres.  A  layer  of  it  has  been  found  tinder  a 
superincumbent  stratum  of  the  solid  rock.  The  origin  of  the  red  earth 
is  not  known,  but  it  appears  certain  that  it  has  not  been  derived  from 
the  surrounding  submarine  banks,  for  no  similar  soil  has  been  found 
there  or  by  soundings  in  the  neighbouring  dcop-sea  bed.  In  four  of  the 
islands  there  are  large  tracts  of  pine  forest ;  the  indigenous  timber  on 
other  islands  has  long  since  been  destroyed.  Some  of  the  islands  of  the 
group,  viz.  Watling*e,  Bum  Cay,  Conception,  Samana,  the  Crooked  Island 
Group,  Mayaguana,  and  Great  and  Little  Inagna,  are  separated  from  the 
bank,  and  spring  directly  from  a  depth  of  over  2000  fathoms,  thus  repre- 
senting the  flat  tops  of  precipitous  submarine  mountains  125000  feet  high. 
Breaks  in  the  Andean  Watershed  of  Southern  Chili.— The  discovery 
by  Don  Guillermo  Cox  on  his  journey  to  the  source  of  the  Li  may,  a 
<  quarter  of  a  century  ago,  that  the  main  chain  of  the  Andes  did  not 
in  that  part  of  Chili  form  the  watershed  between  the  rivers  Sowing 
respectively  to  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans,  has  been  corroborated 
by  an  expedition  sent  out  by  the  Chilian  Government  to  those  latitudes  ; 
this  expedition  having  proved  that  certain  rivers  flowing  into  the  Pacific 
Goean  rise  to  the  east  of  the  Andes,  in  a  plain  at  the  comparatively  low 
altitude  of  1650  foot  above  the  sea^level.  These  rivers  spring  from  small 
lakeB»  and  cut  their  way  through  the  Cordilleras  in  deep  gorges.  Thus 
while  the  Limay,  a  tributary  of  the  Rio  Negro  flowing  into  the  Atlantic, 
rises  on  the  west  of  the  main  ridge,  numerous  Pacific  streams  rise  on  the 
east.     Another  important  stream,  the  Palona,  which  rises  to  the  east  of 


J 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  681 

the  Andes  and  disembognes  in  the  Gulf  of  Corcovado,  opposite  the 
sonthem  end  of  the  Island  of  Chiloe,  has  been  recently  explored  by 
Captain  Serrano,  who  ascended  it  in  a  boat  as  far  as  long.  72°.  The 
Palena  proves  to  be  navigable  for  some  distance  from  its  month,  and 
in  its  lower  course  is  half  a  mile  broad.  These  discoveries  will  affect 
the  political  boundary  between  Chili  and  the  Argentine  Kepublic,  which 
had  been  fixed  by  treaty  as  lying  along  the  watershed. 

The  Aguaray-Gudzu.* — According  to  Azara,  the  main  branch  of  the 
Eio  Pilcomayo  enters  the  Paraguay  in  lat.  24°  24'  S.  It  was  to  verify 
this  statement  that  Captain  Federico  W.  Fernandez  and  Mr.  Carlos 
Thompson,  having  chartered  a  small  river  steamer,  the  Sucre,  started 
from  Asuncion  on  the  12th  June,  1886.  A  few  days  afterwards 
they  discovered  a  broad  opening  into  a  lagoon,  locally  known  as 
Laguna  Naro,  and  a  considerable  river  of  brackish  water  disemboguing 
into  it,  which  appeiured  to  correspond  to  Azara's  description.  Not 
having  a  sufficient  supply  of  fuel,  they  were  only  able  to  trace  this 
river  for  a  distance  of  27  leagues  upwards,  and  then  returned  to 
Asuncion.  Captain  Fernandez,  having  in  the  meantime  secured  the 
support  of  the  '  Institute  Geogr^fico,'  was  able  to  return  soon  afterwards 
to  the  scene  of  his  labours.  On  October  1st,  1886,  he  once  more  left 
Asuncion  in  the  Sucre,  having  a  barge  in  tow.  He  reached  the  bar  of 
the  river  (24°  26'  S.,  57°  13'  W.  by  obs.)  on  the  same  day.  Two 
islands,  Carolina  and  Placode,  lie  off  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The 
depth  of  the  northern  and  principal  arm  was  found  to  exceed  50  feet. 
Having  expended  a  week  in  an  examination  of  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
the  Sucre  began  its  ascent  on  October  9th.  The  depth  varied  from 
11  to  16  feet.  After  two  leagues  the  expedition  arrived  at  a  bifurcation, 
and  took  the  channel  opening  to  the  right,  which,  after  an  ascent  of 
25  leagues,  proved  to  be  only  a  tributary,  formed  by  two  streams,  the 
one  rising  in  a  small  pool,  the  other  tumbling  over  three  cataracts 
10  feet  in  height.  This  Arroyo  Huergo  is  of  considerable  depth,  its 
brackish  waters  are  discoloured  by  oxide  of  iron,  and  its  banks  rise  to  a 
height  of  4  to  10  feet.  Twenty  days  were  expended  in  its  exploration, 
in  the  course  of  which  the  river  fell  eight  feet.  On  again  reaching  its 
mouth  the  Sucre  grounded.  By  digging  a  channel  through  the  sand 
her  occupants  succeeded  in  again  floating  her,  but  the  engines  had 
sustained  some  injury,  and  it  was  found  necessary  to  send  her  to 
Asuncion  to  be  repaired.  Thus  valuable  time  was  lost,  in  the  course  of 
which  the  river  fell  10  feet.  On  November  23rd  the  Sucre  returned,  and 
already  on  the  following  day  she  started  up  the  river,  which  was  at 
that  time  about  15  feet  below  the  highest  flood-marks,  although  its 
depth  still  exceeded  13  feet,  and  its  volume  rolled  along  at  the  rate  of 
1940  metres  an  hour.    On  the  third  day  the  furthest  point  of  the  first 

*  *  Boletin  del  Institnto  Geogrdfico  Argentino,'  1887,  pp.  151-71. 

2  T  2 


682 


GEOGRAFHICAL  NOTES. 


ascent  wae  readied.  On  the  fourth  day  smoke  waa  seen  riBing  from  an  en- 
campment of  civilised  Indians  (tribe,  Anima-ac4).  On  November  29th  it 
rained  during  ten  iioui*s,  and  the  river  rose  7  feet,  much  fresh  water 
being  ponred  iDto  it  by  its  numorous  tributaries.  The  depth  continued 
almost  Tinifornily  at  12  to  113  feet,  and  the  Sucre  was  able  to  make  a 
good  record  up  to  December  24th.  On  that  day  a  "raft"  obstructed 
all  progress,  and  a  passage  had  to  be  cleared  at  much  labour,  and  on 
the  following  day,  the  depth  not  being  over  6  feet,  numerous  "snags" 
had  to  ho  avoided.  At  length,  on  December  26th,  when  130  leagues  from 
the  mouth,  the  Sucre  grounded  near  the  mouth  of  the  Eio  Argerich, 
a  brackish  tributary  coming  from  the  north-west,  and  not  far  from 
the  Laguna  Juarez  Celman,  in  kt.  23^  46'  S.,  long.  58°  49'  W.  Captain 
Fernandez,  anxious  to  solve  the  problem  of  the  supposed  connection 
of  the  river  he  waa  exploring  with  the  Pilcomayo,  started  on  Feb- 
ruary lOth  with  three  men  and  a  boat.  After  three  days  of  difficult 
navigation,  and  after  having  acoemplished  six  leagues,  the  boat  too 
had  to  be  abandoned,  and  having  attached  to  a  timbo-tree  a  tin  plate 
hearing  an  appropriate  inscription,  the  journey  waa  continued  during 
four  days  more  on  foot.  The  explorers  only  carried  with  them  a  supply 
of  bificuitis  and  Paraguayan  tea.  During  the  laat  day  of  this  difficult 
journey  the  river  trended  to  the  south  ;  it  grew  wider  and  deei>er,  and  its 
banks  attained  a  height  of  20  feet.  The  water  was  perfectly  drinkable. 
When  18  leagues  from  the  steamer  the  explorers  turned  back.  They 
reached  the  Sucre  by  forced  marches  in  three  days  and  a  half.  On 
February  19th  it  rained  heavily  and  the  river  began  to  rise,  but  it  was 
nevertheless  thought  imprudent  to  delay  the  return  any  longer.  The 
Sucre  and  the  barge  were  consequently  aban(3onod,  and  the  retreat  down 
the  river  was  eflfocted  in  two  boats,  which  started  on  February  20th  and 
reached  the  Paraguay  seventeen  daj's  afterwards.  During  the  whole  of 
this  expedition  not  a  single  human  being  was  met  with.  The  problem 
whether  the  Aguaray-Gudzu  is  a  branch  of  the  Pilcomayo  has  not  been 
solved,  hut  Captain  Fernandez  inclines  to  think  that  the  statement 
respecting  it  made  by  Azara  will  ultimately  be  confirmed.  The  water 
of  the  river  is  brackish,  except  in  its  upper  roaches,  owing  to  the  do- 
posits  of  saltpetre  which  it  drains.  The  lagoons,  however,  into  which 
the  river  discharges  some  of  its  surplus  waters  when  in  flood,  are  fresh, 
and  being  imbedded  amid  luxuriant  vegetation,  present  charming 
pictures,  worthy  the  "  brush  of  a  Bembrandt."  The  country  adjoining 
the  river  presents  an  undulating  surface.  Geologically  it  consists  of 
lieds  of  chalk  and  clay,  thickly  covered  with  vegetable  mould*  Pure 
kaolin  of  a  reddish  hno  is  found  in  some  of  the  ravines,  and  is  used  by 
the  Indians  for  making  their  pottery*  The  shells  discovered  belonged 
to  species  still  existing  on  the  sea-coast.  Dense  bands  of  forest,  some 
three  miles  in  depth,  fringe  the  river  on  either  sidoj  and  beyond  these 
extends  an  open  country,  covered  with  coarse  grass,  and  dotted  over 


• 


OBirUARY.  588 

with  graceful  palms.  The  forests  oontain  much  valuable  timber,  in- 
cluding the  quebracho  {Aspidosperma  Quebracho),  both  white  and  coloured ; 
the  guayacan,  which  here  attains  a  large  size,  the  lapacho,  the  jaca- 
randd,  the  palobobo,  and  many  others.  Five  species  of  palms  were 
observed,  viz.  the  caranduhi  (Palma  copemiciana),  the  pindo  (Cocoa 
austi-alis),  the  carand4  (which  yields  a  useful  fibre),  and  a  small  palm 
with  a  big  trunk,  bearing  a  golden-coloured  fruit  of  pleasant  taste. 
Most  of  the  trees  bear  fruit,  and  during  the  ascent  of  the  river  the  trees 
were  so  thickly  covered  with  blossoms  that  they  resembled  walls  hung 
with  tapestry.  The  animal  world  is  represented  by  jaguars,  tapirs,^ 
deer,  foxes,  armadillos,  the  carpinch6  {Hydrochaerm  Capyhara),  and  a 
variety  of  apes.  Birds  are  in  great  number,  and  the  river  yields  an 
abundance  of  fish.  An  expedition  could  thus  for  months  subsist  upon 
the  produce  of  the  chase. 


Eev.  T.  J.  Comber. — It  is  with  deep  regret  that  we  announce  the  death  of 
this  ardent  xnissioiiary  and  successful  African  explorer.  Mr.  Comber  was  bom  in 
London  in  1852.  As  a  youth  he  resolved  to  devote  himself  to  missionary  work  in 
Africa,  and  after  a  short  training  at  Regent's  Park  College,  his  services  were 
accepted  in  1875  by  the  committee  of  the  Baptist  Missionary  Society.  Towards 
the  end  of  that  year  he  reached  the  mission  station  of  Victoria,  Cameroons,  which 
for  nearly,  three  years  formed  the  centre  of  his  activity.  During  that  period 
he  ascended  the  Cameroons  Peak  (in  April  1877)  and  explored  the  country  to 
the  north  of  the  peak,  proving  that  it  stood  out  an  isolated  mass  and  had  no 
connection  with  a  mountain-range  supposed  at  that  time  to  extend  far  into  the 
interior  of  Africa,*  When  Stanley's  discoveries  on  the  Congo  directed  the 
attention  of  his  committee  to  that  quarter  of  Africa,  he  and  Mr.  Grenfell,  in  June 
1878,  proceeded  on  a  preliminary  trip  to  San  Salvador,  with  a  view  to  the  selection 
of  missionary  sites.  On  that  occasion  the  two  pioneers  pushed  to  the  north-east,  as 
far  as  Timgwa,  the  capital  of  Makuta,  which  Lieutenant  Grandy  had  failed  toreach.t 
At  the  close  of  1878  Mr.  Comber  came  to  England  for  reinforcements,  bat  re- 
turned early  in  the  following  year  accompanied  by  his  wife  (who  died  shortly 
after  his  arrival  in  Africa),  and  by  Messrs.  Bentley,  Hartland,  and  Crudgington. 
The  journeys  imdertaken  by  these  missionaries  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Salvador 
proved  of  considerable  benefit  to  our  geographical  knowledge,  and  resulted  in  a 
map,  based  upon  astronomical  observations,  and  forming  a  great  improvement  upon 
that  published  some  time  before  by  Lieutenant  Grandy.  Repeated  attempts  to  travel 
by  a  direct  road  from  San  Salvador  to  Stanley  Pool  failed,  on  account  of  the  opposi- 
tion of  the  native  ivory  traders,  who  feared  that  their  monopoly  would  be  lost  if 
the  country  were  opened  to  European  enterprise.t  He  was  fired  at  and  woimded 
in  his  attempt  to  traverse  their  district.  Mr.  Comber  consequently  proceeded  to 
the  Pool  by  the  ordinary  route  along  the  Congo  river,  and  soon  after  his  arrival, 
in  1883,  he  laid  it  down  on  a  rough  map.§     In  July  1884  he  accompanied 


«  *  Proceedings  B.G.S.,'  1879,  p.  225,  with  a  map.  t  lUd.,  p.  284. 

X  Ibid.,  1881,  p.  20,  with  a  map.  §  Ibid.,  1884,  p.  7U 


5S4 


PBOCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


Mr.  Grenfell  in  a  trip  in  the  Peac^  op  the  Congo  to  BangalajOnd  up  the  Kasai  to  the 
moutli  of  the  Kuango,*  and  then  paid  another  short  visit  to  England.  On  his  return 
to  Africa  he  took  up  hiis  quarters  at  Lutete.  He  died  at  sea  at  the  closo  of  Jiinu,  on 
l)oard  the  German  steamer  Lula  BdJilen^  and  his  body  was  landed  at  Mayumba  for 
buriaL  In  Mr.  Comber  the  Baptist  Missionary  Society  has  lost  one  of  its  most 
earnest  workers,  and  geography  an  observer  of  very  considerable  ability;  wbila 
nmnerous  friends  among  all  claases,  without  difference  of  religion,  deplore  a  most 
genial  and  kind-hearted  companion,  Mr,  Grenfell,  who  has  only  recently  returned 
to  Englaud  for  much-needed  reat,  left  Liverpool  on  the  24th  August  to  fill  up  the 
gap  created  in  the  staff  of  the  Mission. 

GiacOMO  Bove|''^vhose  recent  death  by  snicide  has  been  announced  jn  the  papers, 
was  horn  at  Maranaano,  in  the  Province  of  Acqui,  Italy,  in  April  1852.  He  entered 
the  navy,  and  when  still  quite  young  accompanied  8ignor  Giordone  on  a  mission  to 
Borneo  and  Japan.  In  1878-9  he  accompanied  Baron  Nordenskiuld  in  bis  remarkable 
voyage  round  Northern  Asia,  in  the  Vega^  and  on  his  return  to  Italy  he  agitated  for 
the  despatch  of  an  expedition  into  the  Antarctic  regions.  The  subscriptions  proving 
inadequate  for  that  purpose,  Lieutenant  Bove  in  1881  accepted  the  command  of  an 
cxjiedition,  oi^ganlaed  at  his  solicitation  by  the  Argentine  Government,  for  the  scien- 
tific exploration  of  Southern  Patagonia  and  Tierra  del  Fnego*  The  scientific  members 
of  this  expedition  were  Professor  Lovisato  (geologist),  Dr.  Ycnciguerra  (zoologist). 
Dr.  Si)egazzi,  and  Lieutenant  Roncagli.  Their  Rcjorts  have  been  published  in 
Spanish  and  in  Italian.!  In  1885,  the  Italian  Government  charged  him  jointly  with 
Captain  Frabello  with  a  mission  to  the  Congo,  whiob  he  ascended  as  high  up  aa  the 
Stanley  Falls.  Lieutenant  Bove,  to  judge  from  his  official  report,  does  not  appear  to 
have  been  impressed  very  favourahly  with  the  commercial  capabihties  of  this  "higb- 
road  "  in  Central  Africa. 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 

GeograpMcal  Society  of  BarllBt  Jnlj  2nd,  1887 :  Professor  SAcnAu  in  the 
chair, — Some  hrief  communications  were  read  announcing  tbat  Lieutenant  Oudenfeldt, 
of  Lancerote,  bad  completed  an  exploration  of  the  Atlantic  coast  of  the  Sahara  from 
Santa  Cruz  de  Mar  Pequena  to  Cape  Juby^  and  had  executed  a  toiwgraphical  survey 
of  the  region, — News  from  the  Congo  was  laid  before  the  Society  as  to  the  progress 
of  the  Stanley  Exi>edition,  which  had  encountered  great  difficulties  on  the  marcb 
to  Stanley  Pool.  The  famishing  people  plundered  the  villages  and  carried  off  all 
the  eatables*  A  considerable  number  of  sick  and  others  perishing  from  hunger, 
who  had  heen  indiscreetly  left  behind,  were  lying  along  the  track  of  the  expedition. 
The  famine  at  Stanley  Pool  was  due  not  so  much  to  the  want  of  rain  as  to  the 
carelesa  way  in  which  the  natives  had  cultivated  their  manioc  fields,  provision  for  a 
fiufEcient  second  growth  not  having  been  made*  The  expedition  left  Leopoldville  on 
the  1st  of  May  in  the  following  order — first  the  Stanley^  with  the  hull  of  the 
I'lortda,  a  steamer  chartered  in  Banana,  belonging  to  the  Sand  ford  Exploring 
Expedition,  and  of  tho  same  pattern  as  the  iS/ayji*^,  only  a  little  smaller,  then  the 
Eenry  Beed^  with  the  hull  of  the  En  aeard  and  Stanley's  own  boat  in  tow,  and 
last  of  all  the  Peace,  with  a  large  lighter  and  a  smaller  boat  belon^ng  to  the  mission.. 
It  had  thus  been  poeaible  for  Stanley  to  take  all  his  forces  with  him.  The  gre&ter 
part  of  the  goods  had,  however,  to  he  left  behind.    A  permanent  camp  was  to  be 


I 


*PToceediDga  R.G.S^  1885,  p,  353. 


t  Ibid.,  1883.  p.  112. 


PBOCESOINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES.  685 

established]  on  the  Aruwimi,  where  the  arrival  of  the  loads  would  be  awaited. 
Meanwhile  Stanley,  with  a  part  of  the  expedition,  would  push  forward  at  once 
along  the  Aruwimi.  Major  Bartlett  was  in  command  of  the  rear  guard. — Dr. 
Schinz,  who  from  October  1884  to  December  1886  travelled  over  the  south-west  of 
Africa,  gave  a  sketch  of  the  general  features  of  the  country  traversed.  In  the  first 
instance  he  made  an  attempt  to  explore  the  region  lying  due  east  of  Angra 
Pequeiia  and  to  penetrate  into  the  Kalahari  desert,  but  his  plans  failed  owing  to 
the  perfidy  and  hostility  of  the  Hottentots.  He  therefore  returned  to  Arudans, 
where  he  severed  his  connection  with  the  Luderitz  Expedition,  to  which  he  had  up 
to  this  time  belonged.  He  then  undertook  a  journey  at  his  own  expense  to  the 
north.  After  being  plundered  in  Great  Namaqua-Luid  by  well-armed  Hottentots, 
ho  succeeded  in  reaching  Damara-Land  by  way  of  Behoboth,  and  thence  proceeded  to 
Fort  Humbe,  on  the  Gunene  river.  The  insecurity  of  the  country  caused  him  to 
abandon  his  plan  of  travelling  farther  to  the  north;  indeed  a  few  days  later 
hostilities  broke  out  between  the  Portuguese  garrison  and  the  settlers,  in  the  course 
of  which  two  French  missionaries  were  murdered.  From  the  Cunene  River  Dr. 
Schinz  took  a  south-easterly  direction  across  tl^e  ''salt  pans"  of  Etosha  to  the  Boer 
isettlemeut  of  Grootfontein,  which  contains  the  greater  part  of  those  Boers  who 
formerly  settled  at  Huila  in  Humpata,  in  the  Portuguese  province  of  Mossamedes. 
The  latter  settlement  is  now  completely  abandoned,  the  Boers  having  dispersed  in 
all  directions.  The  majority  of  those  who  travelled  to  the  east  and  north  have 
succumbed  to  fever  or  to  the  hostility  of  the  natives.  From  Upingtonia  Dr. 
Schinz  marched  to  Lake  Ngami,  which  appeared  to  be  slowly  drying  up.  He 
eventually  returned  to  Walfish  Bay  after  undergoing  many  privations. — Professor 
Ascherson  made  some  observations  upon  the  desert  of  the  Egyptian  Isthmus  east  of 
the  Suez  Canal.  The  Egyptian  frontier  here  does  not  run,  as  represented  on  the 
best  maps,  from  El  Arish  south-east  in  a  straight  line  to  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of 
Akabah,  but  starts  from  Bafah,  a  point  on  the'sea-coast  between  Guza  and  El  Arlsh. 
From  Hafah  a  belt  of  Egyptian  territory  along  the  coast,  some  miles  in  breadth,  ex- 
tends^as  far  as  the  Wadi  el  Ansh,  which  has  been  hitherto  supposed,  but  incorrectly, 
to  form  the  political  boundary  between  Syria  and  Egypt.  The  Turkish  territory 
goes  considerably  beyond  this  ''brook  of  Egypt"  of  the  Bible,  and  stretches  in  the 
shape  of  a  wedge  up  to  the  meridian  of  the  oasis  of  Katieh,  thus  forming  the  divide 
between  the  abodes  of  two  Arab  stocks,  the  Egyptian  Ssauarkah  and  the  Turkish 
Tarabin.  As  regards  geology,  it  is.to  be  noted  that  the  coast  region  between  the  Suez 
Canal  and  El  Arish  consists  of  a  broad  zone  of  dunes,  in  the  valleys  of  which  are  found 
extensive  "  salt  pans."  These  are  the  result  of  the  evaporation  of  pools  of  water  formed 
by  the  winter  rains,  and  are  surroimded  by  their  own  peculiar  vegetation,viz.  tamariak, 
artiplex,  &c.  The  rocky  formation  begms  with  the  steep  slope  (2300  to  3300  feet) 
of  the  plateau  of  the  Sinai  peninsula,  which  at  El  Arish  is  about  a  day's  march  from 
the  coast,  and  which  beyond  the  Bir  el  Abd  bounds  the  southern  horizon  of  the 
traveller  approaching  it  along  the  caravan  route.  In  the  west  this  range  goes  by  the 
name  of  Djebel  Megh&rah,  and  in  the  east  Djebel  Haltal.  The  district  is  by  no 
means  destitute  of  vegetation.  From  an  elevation  the  country  appears  green  almost 
everywhere,  not  only  the  lowest  parts  of  the  valleys,  but  the  slopes  of  the  dunes, 
especially  those  lying  to  the  north.  The  plants  visible  from  a  distance  are  princi- 
pally of  woody  growth ;  particularly  a  variety  of  Artemisium  with  a  sweet  aroma, 
and  also  species  of  Calligonum  and  Retaniun ;  the.  last  mentioned,  however,  is  found 
exclusively  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  district  Speaking  generally,  this  region  is 
surprisingly  rich  in  botanical  species.  Economically  the  country  may  be  said  to 
gravitate  towards  Syria  rather  than  towards  Egypt  The  centre  of  population  in 
the  sparsely  peopled  western  district  is  the  oasis  of  Eatieh«    The  gioves  of  date 


58G 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  FUBUCATIONS. 


IJalms  beloDg  to  four  Arab  tribes,  wbicli  during  tbe  g^reater  portion  of  the  year 
wander  in  nomad  fasbion  ov^er  Syria^  TeturniDg  to  the  oasb  only  for  tlie  date 
barvest.  Agricnlttire  is  but  very  little  practised.  In  tbe  valley  of  tlio  Wadi  el 
Arisli,  however,  wheat  and  barley  are  cultivated  with  succesa  io  wioter,  and  maize 
(which  is  here  called  '*durrah  **)  from  April  to  Jime.  Water  melons  coiit  in  the 
height  of  summer  only  sixpence  per  camel  load.  The  construction  of  tbe  canal  has 
to  a  large  extent  diminished  tbo  trade  along  the  caravan  route,  nearly  all  goods  being 
now  carried  by  sea  from  Jaffa,  Tbe  representation  of  the  caravan  route  on  Jaootin's 
map  k  nearly  accurate,  but  in  the  case  of  Lake  Serbonia,  theton^a  of  land  which  itt 
shown  as  dividing  tbe  lake  in  the  middle  at  El  Gcb,  has  no  existence,  as  Greville 
Chester  showed  in  1880.  The  south  coast  of  the  lake»  which  is  now  again  dry,  is 
almost  completely  unknown,  Tbe  position  of  El  Arisb  was  determined  last  year  by 
M.  Floyer,  chief  inspector  of  Egyptian  telegraphs,  as  31°  10'  20"  lat  and  33°  48'  30" 
long,  (east  of  Greenwich),  Tbe  telegraph  lines  laid  a  few  years  ago,  and  the  country 
in  their  vicinity  along  tbe  caravan  route  from  El  Kantarab  to  Kafab,  as  well  as  part 
of  tbe  line  to  Constantinople,  have  been  topographically  surveyed  by  Albino  Paoletti, 
whose  map  will  shortly  be  published. 


NEW  GEOGKAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 
(By  J.  S€OTT  Eeitib,  Librarian  B.a.s.J 

EUBOPE. 

Baddeley,  M-  J.  B.^Thorough  Guide  Series.  Scotland  (Part  I.),  Edinburgh, 
Glasgow,  and  the  Higblauds  as  far  north  as  Aberdeen,  iDvemefis,  Gairloch,  and 
Storaoway,  with  a  full  description  of  the  various  Approaches  and  Chief  Places  of 
Interest  in  the  Lowlands.  Thirty-seven  maps  and  plana  by  J,  Bartholomew, 
r,ii,o.e.  5th  edition.  LonJoDp  Dulau  &  Co.,  1887:  12mo,,  pp.  xiiiv.  and 
1297.    Price  7$.     [Presented  by  Messrs.  Dulau  &  Co.] 

Botella,  Pederico  de. — EspaHa,  Geografia  Morfolugica  y  Etiologica.  Observa- 
cionea  accica  do  Ja  Conatitucion  Orogralica  de  la  Peninsula  y  Leyea  de  Dlreccidn, 
do  sua  Sierras,  Cordilleras^  Costati  y  Kios  priucijiales.  Madrid|  Imprenta  de 
Fortanet,  1886  :  large  8vo,  pp.  viii.  and  129,  maps. 

[France.}— ^liiiiat^rs  de  I'lnti^rienr.  Dcnombrement  de  la  population*  1886. 
Paris,  Imp.  Nationale,  1887 :  8vo-,  pp.  870.  [rresented  by  the  French  Minister 
of  tbe  Interior.] 

ABIA. 

Amat,  Pietro. — Delle  Relazioni  Antiche  e  Modemo  fra  1* Italia  e  F India.  Memoria 
premlata  dalla  Reale  Accademia  dei  Lincei.  lloma,  Stahilimcnto  Tipografico  dell* 
OpinioTie,  1886:  8vo.,  pp.  x.  and  158,  map.     [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

AtkinsoD,  Edwin  S. — The  Himilayan  District  of  the  Nortb-weatem  Provinces  of 
lodia.  Yol.  iii-  (Formiog  vol.  xii.  of  the  Gazetteer,  N.-W.P.)  AllababaJ,  1886  : 
imp.  8vo.,  pp.  (iii,),  iv.,  and  721.  [Presented  by  the  Secretary  of  State  for  India 
in  CouuciJ.] 

The  present  volume  concludes  the  historical,  geographical,  and  statistical 
account  of  tbe  Himalayan  districts  of  tbe  North-west  rroviDcea,  in  accordanco 
with  the  ofBcial  inatruotiona  given  in  the  preface  to  tbe  second  volume  of  tlitj 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUCATIONS.  587 

Gazetteer.  These  iiistnictions  have  been  meet  faithfully  carried  out,  and  the 
resalt  is  a  mine  of  information  on  the  districts  treated  of  the  highest  value. 
The  present  volume  gives  the  topographical,  statistical,  and  other  IcMsal  informa- 
tion for  each  fiscal  subdivision  and  important  tract,  town,  or  place  in  the 
Kumaon,  Grarwhil,  Tarai,  Dehra  Dun,  and  Jauns&r-B&war  districts.  There  are 
five  large  maps  and  three  photographs. 

AzJmar,  H.— Dictiomuure  Stieng;  Recueil  de  2500  mots.  Saigon,  Imprimerie 
CJoloniale,  1887  :  8vo.,  pp.  vii.  and  184. 

P^re  Az^mar  prefixes  to  his  valuable  vocabulary  of  the  Stieng  people,  who 
inhabit  Camboda,  an  exceedingly  interesting  account  of  the  people  themselves, 
of  the  country,  its  fauna  and  flora,  the  history  of  the  people,  and  their  manners 
and  customs. 

Barth^lemy-St.  Hilaire,  X — L'Inde  Anglaise,  son  dtat  actuel— son  avenir, 
prdc^^  d'one  Introduction  sur  FAngleterre  et  la  Russe.  Paris,  Perrin  et  Gie., 
1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  484.    Price  6s.  6df. 

This  work  is  valuable  as  riving  the  views  of  an  intelligent  and  observant 
Frenchman  on  the  situation  in  India. 

China.  No.  2  (1887).  Despatch  from  Her  Majesty^  Minister  at  Peking,  forward- 
ing a  Report  by  Mr.  H.  £.  Fulford,  Student  Interpreter  in  the  China  Consular 
Service,  of  a  Journey  in  Manchuria.  Presented  to  both  Houses  of  Parliament  by 
command  of  Her  Majesty.  June  1887.  London,  Harrison  &  Sons:  folio, 
pp.  18,  map.    Price  6J(f. 

This  journey  has  already  been  described  in  the '  Proceedings.'  See  Noe.  for 
December  1886,  pp.  779-80,  and  April  1887,  pp.  236-9. 

[Hedges,  William.}— The  Diary  of  William  Hedges,  Esq.  (afterwards  Sir  William 
Pledges),  during  his  Agency  in  Bengal ;  as  well  as  on  his  Voyage  out  and  Return 
overland  (1681-1687).  Transcribed  for  the  press,  with  Introductory  Notes,  &c., 
by  R.  Barlow,  Esq.,  and  illustrated  by  copious  Extracts  from  Unpublished 
Records,  .&C.,  by  Colonel  Henry  Yule,  B.E.,  c.b.,  ll.d.  Vol.  I.  The  Diary, 
with  Index.  [Hakluyt  Society  Publication,  No.  LXXIV.]  London,  printed  for 
the  Hakluyt  Society,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  xii.  and  265.  [Presented  by  the  Hakluyt 
Society.] 

Ifaamann,  [Dr*  K]. — Die  Japanische  Inselwelt.  Eine  geographisch-geologische 
Skizze.  [Separat-Abdruck  aus  den  Mittheilungen  der  Kais.  KOnigl.  Geograph- 
ischen  Gesellschaft  in  Wien,  Jahrg.  1887.]  Wien,  E.  Holzel,  1887:  870., 
pp.  21,  2  maps.    [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

Satow,  E.  K.  [C.K.G.] — Essay  towards  a  Bibliography  of  Siam.  Singapore, 
Government  Printing  Office,  1886 :  8vo.,  pp.  lOa     [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

Mr.  Satow  has  rendered  excellent  service  by  compiling  this  bibliography, 
which  must  have  been  the  result  of  much  research.  It  is  divided  into  four 
parts  :— 1.  Separate  works  relating  to  Siam ;  2.  Periodicals  and  Proceedings  of 
Learned  Societies ;  3.  Language;  4.  Maps. 

AFRICA. 
Baraban,  Leopold. — A  travers  la  Tunisie.    Etudes  sur  les  Oasis,  les  Dunes,  les 
ForSts,  la  Flore  et  la  Gdologie.     Paris,  Rothschild,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  viii.  and  227. 
Price  12s. 

M.  Baraban  is  Inspector  of  Forests,  and  was  entrusted  by  the  French 
Minister  of  Agriculture  with  a  mission  to  Tunis.  The  result  is  a  work  on 
Tunis  of  considerable  scientific  value.  M.  Baraban  sailed  from  Tunis  to  Gabes, 
and  made  a  very  careful  examination  of  the  Great  Chott  that  lies  westward 


588 


NEW  GEOGBAPHICAL  PtJBLICATIONS. 


from  the  Gulf  of  Gabe?,  ProceediDg  across  the  Hammema  to  Gafsa,  be 
tiBTerfied  that  hilly  region  eastwards  to  Malards  on  the  coast,  and  thence  went 
on  to  Sfax  and  Cheba.  Striking  inland  to  Kairwan,  he  spent  some  time  at  the 
holy  city,  and  then  went  north  wards  to  Tunis,  Subsequently  he  made  an 
excursion  into  the  country  of  tho  Kronmirs,  on  the  Algerian  border.  The 
physical  geography,  the  geology,  and  the  flora  of  the  region  visited  by  M.  Baraban 
he  discusses  very  fully.  The  invasion  of  the  country  by  sand  in  the  Gal)es 
region  and  the  causes  of  the  disintegration  of  the  rocks  here  recelTc  special 
attention j  as  well  as  the  means  of  preventing  snch  disasters.  M,  Baraban  also 
discuaees  Roudaire*a  project  of  a  great  interior  sea,  but  does  not  seem  at  all 
favourable  to  it,  mainly  from  the  ecooomical  standpoint ;  he  thinks  good  rail- 
wars  would  be  much  more  useful  The  book  has  many  interesting  illustrations, 
and  a  fairly  good  map. 

Tlieal,  0eorge  McCaU.^History  of  the  Bocra  in  South  Africa.  London, 
Sonnenschein  &  Co.,  1887  :  8vo,,  pp.  xxiw  and  392.  Price  IBs.  [Presented  by 
the  Pabliaher.] 

No  one  is  better  qualified  than  Mr.  Theal  to  write  a  hiatoiy  of  the  Boers  in 
Soutli  Africa,  a  history  which  covers  so  wide  an  area  and  has  to  deal  so  largely 
with  certain  geographical  developments  of  much  interest.  His  *  Compendium 
of  Soutli  African  History^  is  the  leading  authority  on  the  subject.  Presumably 
he  has  had  ample  opportunities  of  visitiug  all  j>arta  of  the  Soutli  African  terri- 
tories, and  has  seen  much  of  the  Boers  at  various  stages.  He  has,  moreover, 
had  access  to  special  sources  of  information  which  came  in  his  way  officially, 
and  the  result  is  this  volume,  w^hich  may  be  taken  as  now  the  standard  autho- 
rity on  a  subject  of  great  interest.  The  copious  bibliographies  are  of  special 
value. 

Wakefield,  [KevJ  M.^Vocabulajry  of  the  Eivir^ndo  Language.  London,  Society 
for  Promoting  Christian  Knowledge,  1887 :  12mo,,  pp.  7.  [Presented  by  R.  N. 
Cust,  Esq.] 

Wolf,  Ludwig.— ^ul^sstamme  Central  Afrika's.     [Berlin,  1686] :  8vo. 

This  is  a  copy  of  a  paper  read  before  the  Berlin  Anthropological  Society,  on 
the  18th  December,  1886. 

AMEBICA. 

[America.] — Narrative  and  Critical  History  of  America,  Edited  by  Justin  Winsor. 
VoL  V.    London,  Sampson  Low  &  Co.,  1887 :  imp,  Svo,,  pp,  vii,  and  649. 

The  present  volume  deals  with  the  English  aod  French  in  North  America, 
1669-1763.  Chapter  i.  is  devoted  to  Canada  and  Louisiana^  by  Mr,  A. 
McFarland  Davis.  There  are  the  usual  critical  essay  and  editc^rial  notes,  with 
a  paper  on  the  cartography  of  Louisiana  and  the  Mississippi  Basin  under  the 
French  dominatioo,  by  the  editor.  In  chapter  ii.  New  England,  1689-1763,  is 
dealt  with  by  Mr.  Wiosor.  Chapter  iii.  deals  with  the  Middle  Colonies,  by  Mr. 
Berthold  Femow,  who  adds  a  critical  essay  on  manuscript  sources,  the  carto- 
graphy being  treated  by  him  jointly  with  the  editor.  Mr.  Winsor  also  under- 
takes Maryland  and  Virginia  in  chapter  iv,,  while  Prof.  W.  J.  Riv'ers  treats  of 
the  Caroliuas  In  cliapter  v.,  Mr.  Winsor  furnishing  the  critical  note  and  essay 
on  the  later  histories  of  Carolina.  The  Eoglish  colonisation  of  Georgia  is  dealt 
with  in  chapter  vi.  by  Dr.  Cb,  C  Jones,  and  the  wars  of  the  seaboard ;  Acadia 
and  Cape  Breton  by  Mr.  Charles  C.  Smith  ;  Mr.  Winsor  adding  a  dissertation 
of  fifty  pages  on  authorities  on  the  French  and  Indian  wars  of  New  England 
and  Canada,  and  other  ten  j^mges  on  majjs  and  records  of  Acadia.  The  last 
chapter  is  by  the  editor,  and  treats  of  the  struggje  for  the  great  valleys  of  North. 
America.     There  Is  the  usual  wealth  of  illustrations  and  maps. 

[America,  tfnited  States*]— [Tentli  Census  of  the  United  States,  ISSO.]  VoL 
:cii.  Iteport  on  the  Mortality  aod  Vital  Statistics  of  the  United  States  as 
returned  at  the  Tentli  Census  (June  1,  1880),  by  John  S,  Billings,  Surgeon 


J 


NKW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUCATIOKS.  589 

U.S.  Army.  Part  IL  Washington,  Government  Printing  Office,  1886:  4to. 
pp.  clviii.  and  803,  maps.  [Plates  and  Diagrams  aooompanying  the  ahove,  in 
separate  case.] 

Annual  Report  of  the  Board  of  Brents  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  showing 
the  Operations,  Expenditures,  and  Condition  of  the  Institution  to  July  1885. 
Part  I.  Washington,  Government  Printing  Office,  1886:  8vo.,  pp.  xviii.  and 
996,  illustrations.    [Presented  by  the  Smithsonian  Institution.] 

This  Report  opens  with  the  Proceedings  of  the  Board  of  Regents  of  the 
Smithsonian  Institution  for  the  session  of  January  1885 ;  the  Report  of  the 
Executive  Committee  for  the  first  six  months  of  1885  ;  and  the  Annual  Report 
of  the  Secretary.  The  General  Appendix,  occupying  more  than  one-half  of 
the  volume,  contains: — I.  Record  of  Scientific  Progress,  1884,  divided  as 
follows — ^Introduction,  by  Snencer  F.  Baird ;  Astronomy,  by  WilUam  C.  Win- 
lock  ;  List  of  Astronomical  Observatories,  by  George  H.  Boehmer ;  Vulcanology 
and  Seismology,  by  Charles  G.  Rockwood ;  Volcanic  eruptions  and  earthquakes 
in  Iceland  within  historic  times  ;  Geography,  by  J.  King  Ck)odrich ;  Physics, 
by  George  F.  Barker ;  Chemistry,  by  H.  Carrington  Bolton ;  Mineralogy,  by 
Edward  S.  Dana ;  Bibliography  of  Invertebrate  Palaeontology,  by  J.  B.  Maroou ; 
Zoology,  by  Theodore  Gill ;  and  Anthropology,  by  Otis  T.  Mason.— II.  Mis- 
cellaneous papers,  including  papers  relating  to  Anthropology  ;  Obsenrations  on 
Stone-chipping,  by  George  £.  Sellers ;  Copper  implements  from  Bayfield,  Wis., 
by  Charles  Whittlesey;  Ancient  Remains  in  Ohio,  by  J.  P.  MacL^;  A 
primitive  store-house  of  the  Creek  Indians,  by  Charles  C.  Jones,  jr. ;  Shell 
neaps  and  mounds  in  Florida,  by  James  Sbepard :  Ancient  earthworks  in  China, 
by  Mark  Williams ;  Plan  for  American  Ethnological  Investigation,  by  the  late 
Henry  R.  Schoolcraft ;  Index  to  the  Literature  of  Uranium,  by  H.  Carrington 
Bolton ;  and  Pric&-list  of  the  Publications  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution. 

Heilprin,  Angelo. —  Explorations  on  the  West  Coast  of  Florida  and  in  the 
Okeechobee  Wilderness.  A  Narrative  of  Researches  undertaken  under  the 
auspices  of  the  Wagner  Free  Institute  of  Philadelphia.  Imp.  8vo.,  pp.  vi.  and 
134.    [Presented  by  the  Wagner  Free  Institute.] 

Professor  Heilprin  informs  us  that  the  State  of  Florida  remains  to  the 
present  day,  as  far  as  its  geographical,  zoological,  and  geological  features  are 
concerned,  very  nearly  the  least-known  portion  of  the  United  States.  The 
explorations  described  in  the  volume  are  therefore  a  really  original  contribution 
to  science.  The  book  is  largelv  geological,  but  there  is  also  necessarily  a  good 
deal  of  geography  in  it.  The  whole  of  Florida,  Professor  Heilprin  finds,  belongs 
exclusively  to  the  tertiary  and  post-tertiary  periods  of  geological  time,  and  con- 
sequently, as  a  defined  geographical  area,  represents  the  youngest  portion  of 
the  United  States.  There  is  no  particle  of  evidence,  he  assures  us,  to  sustain 
the  coral  theory  of  the  growth  of  the  peninsula ;  on  the  contrary,  all  the  facts 
point  conclusively  against  such  theory,  and  indicate  that  the  progressive  growth 
of  the  pcDinsula,  at  least  as  far  as  I^ke  Okeechobee,  has  been  brought  about 
by  successive  accessions  of  organic  and  inorganic  material  in  the  normal  method 
of  sedimentation  and  upheaval.  The  Florida  coral  tract  is  evidently  limited 
to  a  border  region  of  the  south  and  south-west  Professor  Heilprin  concludes  by 
stating  that  man's  great  antiquity  in  the  peninsula  is  established  beyond  a 
doubt,  and  not  improbably  the  fossilised  remains  found  in  Sarasota  Bay,  now 
wholly  converted  into  limonite,  represent  the  most  ancient  belongings  of  man 
that  have  ever  been  discovered. 

AUSTBALASIA. 

[QneenslaildO  1886.  Queensland.  Report  on  the'Argentine  (Star)  Silver  Mines, 
Kennedy  District.  By  Robert  L.  Jack,  Government  Geologist,  [Brisbane,  James 
C.  Beal,  Government  Printer] :  folio,  pp.  9,  map  and  section.  Price  It.  [Presented 
by  the  Author.] 


£90 


KEW  GEOGRAPEICAL  PUBUCATIONS, 


6EKEHAL. 

Catftlogne  of  Printed  Books  in  the  Library  of  the  Foreigii  Office.  31st  December, 
1B85.  London,  Harrison  &  Sons,  1880  ;  imp.  8vo.,  pp,  islv.  and  1220,  [Presented 
by  Sir  Julian  Fauooefote,  g.c.m.o.] 

[Colonial  and  Indian  Exhibition,  188 8*] — "Report  of  the  Royal  CoinmissioD 
for  the  Colonial  and  Indian  Exhibition,  London^  1886»  to  the  Kif^ht  Hon.  Henry 
Matthews,  m.p.,  &c.,  one  of  Her  Majesty's  Principal  Secretaries  of  StAte.  London, 
W,  Clowes  &  Sons,  18B7  :  8vo.j  pp.  IxatiiL  and  373»  plan  and  pkte. 

Edgley,  J.  CJ—I'Iao  Origin  and  Featnres  of  Mountaio  Systems,  With  remarks 
00  the  ancient  Glaciers  of  Wales.  [London],  J*  C,  Edgley,  [1887]  t  Bvo.,  pp.  8, 
plate.     [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

Oliphanti  LaM'tace.— Episodes  in  a  Life  of  Adventure ;  or,  iloss  from  a  Rolling 
Stone.  Edinburgh,  Blackwood,  18B7;  8to.,  pp.  vL  and  420.  Price  10$,  Qd. 
[Presented  by  the  Fubliaber.] 

Mr  Oliphant  has  rolled  pretty  well  all  over  the  world,  and  whether  or  not 
his  gatherings  are  of  a  mosay  character,  they  are  welcome  io  this  shape.  He 
has  seen  many  men  and  many  great  cities,  and  tells  ns  alK>ut  them  in  his  ever 
attractive  style.  Even  from  tbe  purely  geof^raphical  point  of  view  his  volume 
is  useful;  it  shows  the  actual  coodition  of  things  in  the  places  visited  by  Mr* 
Oliphant  during  the  last  forty-five  years  or  so.  There  is,  for  example,  a  chapter 
on  the  overland  route  ferty-six  years  ago ;  another  on  politics  and  Indian  affaire 
in  Canada ;  a  chapter  on  Crimean  and  Circassian  expriencea ;  and  another  on 
adventures  in  Central  America,  Other  chapters  deal  with  experiences  in  Japan, 
in  India,  iu  Italy,  in  Cracow  and  Warsaw,  Volhynia,  Moldavia,  and  SchleswJg- 
Hoi  stein. 

[Pjrard,  [of  Laval]  Franjois*] — The  Voyage  of  Fraofois  Pyrard  of  Laval  to  the 
Kast  Indies,  the  Maldives,  the  Moluccas  and  Brazil.  Translated  into  English 
from  the  third  French  edition  of  1619,  and  edited,  with  notes,  by  Albert  Gray^ 
formerly  of  the  Ceylon  Civil  Service,  assisted  by  H.  C.  P.  Bell,  of  the  Ceylon 
Civil  Service.  In  two  volumes.  Vol.  1.  [Hakluyt  Society  Publication, 
No.  LXXVL]  London,  printed  for  the  Hakluyt  Society,  1887  :  8vo.,  pp.  Iviii. 
and  452,  map,  plan,  and  illustrations,     [Presented  by  the  Hakluyt  Society,] 

rWard,  Thomas  Humphry.] — The  Eeignof  Queen  Victoria:  a  Survey  of  Fifiy 
Years  of  Progress,  Edited  by  Thomas  Humphry  Ward,  m.a*  In  two  volumcit. 
London,  Smith,  Elder  &  Co.,  1887  :  8va,  pp,  (vol.  i.)  594,  (vol.  ii*)  620,  maps, 
&c.     Price  32j. 

In  these  volumes  we  have  a  record  of  the  progress  of  the  British  Empire 
during  the  last  fifty  years*  Vol.  i.  contains  articles  on  the  following  subjects: — 
Legislation  of  the  Reign,  and  Foreign  Policy,  by  the  Editor ;  Constitutional 
Development,  by  Sir  William  B.  Anson,  Bart*;  The  Army,  by  General 
Viscount  Wokdey,  g.cd.  ;  Note  on  the  Ordnance  Survey,  by  Colonel  Sir 
C.  W,  Wilson,  K.C.B.,  Director-General  of  the  Survey ;  The  Navy,  by  Lord 
Brassey ;  The  Administration  of  the  Law,  by  Lord  Justice  Boweu  ;  Finance, 
by  Leonard  H.  Courtney,  m.p.  ;  Religion  and  the  Churches,  by  Rev.  Edwin 
Hatch,  D,D. ;  Colonial  Policy  and  Progress,  by  the  Editor;  India,  by  Sir 
Henry  Sumner  Maine,  K,c.fl,i. ;  and  Ireland,  by  Sir  Rowland  Blennerhassett, 
Bart.^ — Vol,  ii.  contains  articles  on  The  Growth  and  Distribution  of  Wealth, 
by  Robert  Giflen;  Industrial  Association,  by  Right  Hon.  A,  J,  Mundella, 
M.F,,  and  G.  Howell,  M,r. ;  Locomotion  and  Transport,  by  tbe  Editor  ; 
Agriculture,  by  Sir  James  Caird,  k.c/b.  ;  The  Cotton  Trade  and  Industry, 
by  John  Slagg,  m,p*;  The  Iron  Trade  and  its  Allied  Industries,  by  Sir 
Lowthian  Bell,  Bart. ;  Schools,  by  Matthew  Arnold ;  The  Universities,  by 
C.   A,   Fyffe ;   Science,  by  Prof,  Huxley,   f.k.s,  ;  Medicine  and  Surgery,  by 


NEW  MAPS.  691 

Robert  Bnidenell  Carter,  f.b.c.8.;  Literature,  by  Richard  Gamett,  ll.d.  ; 
Art,  by  the  Editor;  The  Drama,  by  William  Archer;  and  Music,  by 
Walter  Tarratt.  •*  The  maps  show  the  percentage  of  increase  and  decrease  in 
the  population  of  the  diflerent  counties  of  England,  Wales,  Scotland,  and 
Ireland,  and  of  the  different  districts  of  London,  between  1831  and  1881, 
the  year  of  the  latest  Census  return." 


NEW  MAPS. 
(By  J.  CoLBS,  JMap  Curator  R.aA) 

EUBOPE. 

Deutsohen  Belches*— Karte  des  — — ,  heraosgegeben  von  der  kartogr.  Ab- 
theilung  der  Konigl.  Preuss.  Landes-Anfnahme  1887.  Scale  1 :  100,000  or  1*3 
geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Sheets:  42,  Sagard;  616,  Schlettstadt  Price 
Is.  6d.  each.    (Dulau.) 

Europe. — Les  Monuments  de  la  Geographic,  des  Bibliothdques  de  Belgique.  Carte 
de  TEurope,  1480-1485.  4  cartes  en  8  feuilles.  Texte  explicatif  par  Ch.  Ruelens. 
Bruxelles,  Institut  National  de  G^i^raphie.    Price  17«. 

This  is  a  fac-simile  of  the  copy  of  Ptolemy's  maps  in  the  Royal  Library  of 
Brussels,  and  forms  one  of  a  series  of  maps  in  course  of  publication  by  the 
Institut  National  de  Gdographie  de  Bruxelles.  Tho  letterpress  which  accom- 
panies the  map  is  extremely  interesting ;  in  it  Mr.  C.  Buelens  gives  the  history 
of  all  the  existing  copies  of  this  map,  aod  the  conclusions  he  arrives  at  after 
comparing  the  Brussels  copy  with  them.  The  fac-simile  copy  is  a  chromo- 
lithograph, and  the  manner  in  which  it  has  been  produced  reflects  credit  on  all 
concerned. 

France.— Carte  g^ologique  d^taill^  de  la  — ,  au  80,000  or  I'l  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.    Feuille  248,  Toulon  et  tour  de  Camarat.    Paris.    {Dulau,) 


.    Carte  de ,  dress^  par  le  Service  Vicinal  par  ordre  de  M.  le  Ministre  de 

rint^rieur.  Scale  1 :  100,000  or  1  '3  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Paris,  1887. 
Sheets:  IL— 15,  He  d'Ouessant;  VL— 14,  Saint  Brieuc;  XIL— 15,  Alen^on; 
XllL— 18,  Chateau-du-Loir ;  XIII.— 20,  Sainte  Maure.  Price  Id.  each  sheet. 
{Dulau,) 

Harz. — Neueste  Karte  vom  — . — ,  von  C.  Diercke  und  Ed.  Gaebler.  Scale  1 ;  200,000 
or  2*7  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    Hannover,  C.  Meyer.    Price  3ff.    (fiidau.) 

London.  —Mason  &  Payne's  Popular  Map  of .    Scale  580  yards  to  an  inch. 

With  Guide.    London,  Mason  &  Payne,  1887.    Price  Is. 

This  is  a  very  clearly  drawn  map  of  London,  accompanied  by  seventy-eight 
pages  of  letterpress,  which  forms  a  compact  and  useful  guide. 

Oesterreichsch-XTngarisolien  Monarohie.— Specialkarte   der  Scale 

1 :  75,000  or  1  geographical  mile  to  an  inch.  E.k.  milit&r-geografisches  Institut, 
Wien,  1887.  Sheete :  Zone  12,  Col.  XXIL  Rimaszombat;  14-XXIX.  Hoss- 
zumezo  und  Avas-FelsOfalu ;  15-XXVII.  Nacy-Kdroly  und  Xkos;  15-XXIX. 
Nagy  Bdnya ;  16-XXV.  Hajdu-Szoboszl6  und  Esztdr ;  16-XXVIL  Tasnid  und 
Sz^plak ;  17-XXIV.  N.  Bajom  und  Szeghalom ;  17-XXVIL  Sadldgy-Somly6 
und  :^lesd;  Mezo  KovdcshiLza  u.  Enrtics;  29-XII.  Zara;  31-Xy.  Sinj  und 
Spalato;  33-XyiII.  Zalom  und  Stolac;  83-XIX.  Gacko  und  Orakoyica.  Price 
Is.  id,  each  sheet.    (Jhdau,) 


892 


NEW  MAPS. 


Prag. — Plan  von  tind  Umgebung,  voa  A,  Hiirlig.    Scale  1;  10,000  or  T"3 

iuclies  to  ft  geograpkical  mile.    Price  It.  Od.    (Dtdau,) 
Sacli»eE. — ScliTilwandkarte    vom    KGnigreicli    *,    von   K.  Bamlierg.      Scale 

1:175,000  or  2 '3  geograplucal   miles  to   an    inch,     8    ebects,    Berlin,    Chun 

Price  Os,    {Didaiu) 

Salzburger-AlpeE.— Karte  der  ,   ucd   der   Sal^kamraerguts  von  Ludwig 

KaYenatein.  Bearbeitct  unter  Hitwirknng  der  Deutachen  und  Oesterreichischen 
Alpenvereins.  Scale  1 : 2GO>000 or3 '4  geographical  miles  to  an  ioch^  Fronkfiirt- 
am-Main,  Ravenstein,     Price  5s,    (DulauJ) 

"Ungam, — Orts-  nnd  Strassen-Karte   der  Konigreich  ,  nebst   Kroatien  und 

Slavonien,  von  A.  Steinbatiser.  Scale  1:1,29{3,000  or  17*7  geographical  miles 
to  an  inch.    Wien,  Artaria  &  Co.    Price  4f.    (Dulau,) 


ORDNANCE  BUKVEY  aiAPS. 

PubllcatScns  luned  dndng  tbe  monlfa  of  July  IBat, 
l-lncll— 0«ieral  Maps  ;— 

EifroLun>  itKD  Wales  :  N«w  S«rlM.    Koft.  100  (ontllDe),  33^5  Coutl^°c)>  ^^^  (liUU),  If.  e«di. 
SooTWXo;  19  (hmi).  130  (cmtllae).  It.  9d.  o*cb. 
Imuutp:  133^  142  (hLllA),  If,  e4ch. 

England  akd  Wales:  Bedf ordahlre :  30  N.E.,  6.W.;  If.  po^h.  Br«ckii<)€kBliir6 :  22  8.1L* 
33  N.E.,  34  N.W.  i  u.  tacli.  OambHdg'eshijre  l  (a  S.E,  and  6  N.E.  vn  one  sh^l),  30  S.E„  S.W„ 
33  N,W*.  :w  NVK.,  K.E.;  1».  eiwh,  CardigftiiBMre:  2  N  W..  K.E..  S.K.,  3  N.W,,  N.E.,  S.E., 
e  S.E.,  11  N.W.;  ii,  cjicb.  Carmanbeoihire :  40  S.E,;  It*  Cornwall:  36  N,W.i  it. 
Derbsrshlre:  47  S\VM48  ij.W,.  s.E.;  i*.  each,  Devonshire:  la  N.E  (Ua  S,E,  mA 
iaS,W.,on  one  sheet) ;  If.  each.  DorsetBllire :  6  8.K,,  17  X.W.,  24  N.W.,  33  N.E,,  S.W.;  It 
each,  Glouoeatenhire :  ns.W.,  77  6AV.*  u.  each.  HuntinffdonsMre:  2^  NAV.,  26 
N.K,  S.R;  If.  e*cb.  Leicestershire:  3  S.E.,  t  KE.,  a  N.W.j  it.  inch.  Llncoliiahip* ; 
J3  8.E.,  38  N.W.,  46  N.W.,  S,W.,  112  aE.»  121  N.E.,  122  N.W.*  142  N^K.,  '143  N.E,  i^.W.,  at.  HT 
N.W.,  14S  N.W.,  N.E.,  S,W,,  S.E.  1*9  aw.,  161  N.W.^  u.  ouch.  Merionethshire:  83  8,W., 
47  NX,  SAV.,  S.E,-ig  N.W.;  1>.  each.  MontR-ojueryBhlre :  35  N.E.,  S.W'.,  S.E..  3a  N.W., 
H.E,,  S.E ;  u.  each.  Norfolk :  B'J  S  W,.  e*  KE.,  74  aC  75  s;E..  hg  N'.W,  ;  i*.  a^h.  Netting- 
hamahiret  44S.E, ;  l*,  Oifordshlre:  fi|  2«.  ed.  Shropshire:  47  N,E„  coatoun^; 
1*.  SomeraetBhire  ^  se  S.E.  4«  s,lv.  60  RE..  8o  N.W..  N.E.^  m  S,E, ;  if.  Mch,  Stafford- 
shire :  4  N.E.,  a  s.E.^  2&  S.E.,  an  s,w.  Suffolk :  n  J^.E.,  4?^  S,E.,  60  S.E.,  67  SR,  e^  S.E.,  go 
ii.E.,  82  S.W. ;  If.  efflck.    Warwickahire  :  ifi  N.W.,  S.W.J  If.  edcb.    Wiltahire ;  Ts;  if. 

S6-illch-^F«rl&b  llap«  ;— 

EtiGLAKp  AKo  Wales;  Brecknockflhlre :  XXXVIL  12,  16,  3f,  eacli*  Oaoihrid^eahire: 
XXXV^  1.  5,  G,  3*.  eaebi  XXXV.  12,  XL.  6»  4«.  cack;  LIIL  10.  13.  14,  18,  LVIE  3,  Us.  cftrb.  Car- 
diganshire:  VJIt.  b,  XII.  6.  3f.  cacb.  Carmarthenalilre  i  XXVI.  6,  3f.;  XXVJ.  T,  4f.; 
XX\  J.  «,  10,  It,  31.  wdi;  XXVI.  12,  Bi.;  XX VE  13.  14,  3f.  e^h ;  XXVE  16,  4f.;  XXX l%^  6.  3i. 
Devonahlre;  XJX.  ii,  12,  a^.e^ch ;  XIX.  11,  4r ;  XLX.  is,  10,  a^.cAcb ;  XXX.  1,  2,  6,  g,  14,  XCTX. 
14,  CXUE  11, 16»  CXIV.  «.  CXVJIL  T,  16,  €XIX.  2.  3#.  eacb ;  CXX  V.  4,  7,  U.  4i.  eAch,  Borset- 
shire:  1.  10,  4f.;  HE  14,  VI.  5,  6,  7,  3f,  each;  VL  h,  4f,;  VIE  3,  &,  3<.  e^cb ;  VU.  6,  41, 
Oloueeetershire :  XX  VL  10,  4e.  Area  Book :  Cbeltenbam,  11.  Herefordahire  :  X  J 1 .  U,  4f . ; 
XIV.  le,  XV (LE  14,  XXL  12,  XXIV.  11,  IB,  Ifl,  XXV.  1,  7.  \%  3«,  each;  XXV J.  U  4f,j  XXVI.  2.3, 
4,  8,  Sf,  fatb;  XX VL  11,  4*.;  XX VL  16,  XXVHL  8,  11,  XXXII.  2,  XXX II.  B,  3f.  t  tcb  1  XXXIL  e, 
4f.;  XXXIL  B,  XXXllI.  I,  4.  7.  3f.  ^fiicb;  XXXIV.  1,  4f . ;  XXXtV.  l&.  XXXV.  3,  12,  13,  14»  Ift,  3f. 
fnch.  Hun  tin  jBpdon  shire:  XX,  6  and  7  (on  one),  XX.  10  anil  11  (on  ocie},  3f.  each;  XX.  16« 
4f.  i  XXIV*  4,  3f.  Lincolnshire r  VL  1 1,  4f. ;  X!L  12, 13, 14,  I6,  16,  XX.  3.  4,  5,  3f.  each ;  XX.  6, 
4f.;  XX.  7,  »,  XXXVll.  '2,  4,  &.  13,  le,  3f.  «ftcb ;  XLV.  11,  4f, ;  XLV>  IG.  LXIIL  2,  3.  4,  6.  ©.  7.  10, 

11,  12,  13, 14,  1&,  Ifi,  LXXL  1,3,  3f.eacl:i;  LXXI.  6,  4f.;  L.\X].B,3f.;  LXXLe,4f,;  LXXL  11,  3f.; 
LXXl.  12,  4r;  LXXL  13,  14,  IS,  ifl.  CL,  4,  3*.  mch.  Ilontffomeryshirei  XVL  a,  XXVI. 
10, 14,  16,  XXXIII.  9,  Sf.^wrb.  Norfolk:  11,11,12,13,  3*.  eatb;  IE  15,  4t.;  IE  16.  V.4,3i.eAch; 
V.  B,  4J. ;  IX,  1,  2,  XXXIL  4,  LVL  «,  LXIX.  2,  3f.  CAcb ;  LXXVIII.  3  «id  4  (om  one),  aof.  ^cL^,  CIV. 
13,  4f.  Northamptonshire:  II L  12,  41.  AreA  Books:  AblDglon,  Dollbif^D,  Duiton,  Kings' 
tborpo,  Muultoo  Lark,  Friary  St.  Aadrftw  (yortbAnaploo).  tit.  (ilks  (Nortbampton),  SL  Peu?r 
(Nortbampioii),  SkSepnlcbre,  Weatoii  Fftvei;  If.  each,  Butland :  X,  4,  3f.  Somersetahire : 
IX.  11, 3f.;  LXVL  10,  LXXIll.  3,  LXXV.  Ifi,  EXXXIE  1,  2, 3f.  eacb ;  LXXXIL  S,  &i. ;  LXXXlL  8. 

12,  1«.  LXXXIV.  a,  3.  6,  0,  7,  3f.  each  J  LXXXIV.  H,  4f.;  LXXXV.  2.  6,  3*.  j  LXXXV,  6,  4*.; 
LXXXIX.  3,  4,  3f.  each;  LXXXIX.  fl,  4i.  Suffolk :  H,  3,  20f.  6d.;  XV.  13,  XXX,  12,  4f.  each  i 
EXX  M,  3f. ;  LXXIX.  3«  5f,  Area  Booka:  CbaUlibacn,  Delbam,  OktUMford.  (Jreat  Wenhani,  Long; 
Melford ;  1*,  each.  Warwickshire :  XXiLL  2,  0.  XXXl.  K  10, 14, 16,  iv,  XX XL  is,  XXXIV.  9, 

13,  I*,  XXXVll.  1,  2,  3f.  each;  XXX VIE  S,  4f.j  XXX VIE  11,  3t.  ^  XXXVIL  13,  H,  XLIV.  4,  L*  12, 
4f.  eacb;  LIIL  7,  U^f.  AreaBcxik:  Ipsky.  U.  Wiltahlre :  XXVIII.  ILXXXIL  l,3i.;  XXXVUL 
1,  I3w4«. ;  LIE  1, 10, LIIL  14.  EVIL  2, 3.  4,  8, 12,  31.  eacb,  Worcesterskire :  XXIV.  10,  16,  3a. 
each  j  XEIV*  12, 4f. ;  LL  7,  3f. 


Town  Plaais— lo-feet  Bcal«  t-^ 

SaOLairD  akp  Walks;  Leiccaler,  XXXJ.  10,  13,  14, 16.  16, 17, 13,  ^  25.  2f.  eacb. 
4,  S.  B,  10,  IS.  la,  24,  26.  ' 

(JStanfordj  Agent.} 


Wisfeed),  yn.  3, 


NEW  MAPS.  693 

ASIA. 

Transkaspisclieii  Gebiete   nnd  von  Nord-Chorassan.  —  Karte  der  

Hauptsiichlich  nach  General  J.  Stebnitzki's  Karte  von  Transkaspien  (1885),  mit 
Nachtr&gen  und  den  Routen  der  Forsbhungs-Expeditionen  unter  Dr.  G.  Radde, 
Dr.  Walter  nnd  J.  M.  Konschin,  1881  bis  1886.  Scale  1 : 2,000,000  or  27  geo- 
graphical miles  to  an  inch.  Petermann's  *  Geographiache  Mitteilungen,'  Jahrgang 
1887,  Tafel  12.    Gotha:  Justus  Perthes.    (DuZau.) 

AFRICA. 

jj^frjj^  — Neue  Karte  von,   nebst  Madagaskar,  Arabien,  Persien,  Afghanistan, 

Belutschistan,  Syrien   und  Klein  Asien,  mit  Anschluss    an   Europa.     Scale 

1:7,500,000  or  102*7  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.     Stuttgart,  J.  Maier. 

Price  8«.    (Dulau,) 
Alg^rie.— Carte  topographique  de  V an  50,000«  or  1  '4  inches  to  a  geographical 

mile.      Sheets:  4,  Herbillon;    9,   Azeffoun;   14,  Philippeville;    19,  La  Calle; 

33,  Penthi^vre ;  43,  Palestro:  64,  Tablat;  65,  Ben  Haroun;  87,  Oued-el-Malah ; 

88,  ATne  Bessem;  128,  Mostaganem;  182,  Sfldnt-Denis  dn  Sig.    Paris,  Minist^re 

de  la  Guerre.    (Dtdau,) 
Mailica.--Carta  do  Districto  de e  dos  territorios  drcumvizinhos,  1887.    Scale 

1 :  2,000,000  or  27  geographical  miles  to  an  inch*    CommissSo  de  Cartographia. 

Coordenada  por  A.  A,  d'Oliveira.    (Dulau,) 

Santo  Antao.— Carta  da  Ilha  de  (Cabo  Verde),  1887.  Scale  1:100,000  or  1*3 
geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  CommissSo  de  Cartographia.  Coordenada  por 
Ernesto  de  Yasconcellos. 

AMERICA. 

Argentina. — ^Mapa  general  de  la  Hepublica ,  j  parte  de  las  naciones  circnn- 

vecinas,  formado  en  visita  de  observaciones  astronomicas^  cartes,  exploraciones  de 
autores  de  cr^ito  j  obras  publicadas  hasta  principio  de  este  afio  de  1887.  Bajo 
la  direccion  del  D.  D.  Marino  Felipe  Paz  Soldan,  dibujado  por  Iob  ingenieros 
geografos  Carlos  Beyer,  Pederico  Block.  Scale  1:  300,000  or  41*6  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.    Paris.    {Dulau.) 

Nord  Amerika* — Oflficielle  Eisenbahnkarte  der  Vereinigten  Staaten  von  , 

Canada  und  Mexico.  Herausgegeben  von  Rand,  McNally  St  Co.  Leipzig,  G. 
Weigel.    Price  3».    (Dtilau,) 

North  America. — General  Map  of ^  constructed  from  the  best  authorities, 

and  embodying  the  results  of  all  explorations  to  the  present  time.  By  W.  and  A. 
K.  Johnston,  Edinburgh  and  London,  1887.  Scale  1 : 7,160,000  or  98  geo- 
graphical miles  to  an  inch.  Price,  moxmted  on  cloth  on  mahogany  rollers, 
varnished,  1^.  Is. ;  on  spiral  spring  roller,  with  mahogany  case,  61,  Ss, 

This  is  a  very  good  general  map  of  North  and  Central  America  on  which 
all  the  railways  appear  to  have  been  carefully  laid  down,  and  although  the 
scale  on  which  it  is  drawn  is  small,  it  is  sufficiently  large  for  the  purpose  of 
general  reference.  The  physical  features  are  clearly  shown,  and  care  has  been 
taken  not  to  overcrowd  it  with  names. 

AI78TBALIA. 

Queensland. — Geographical  Map  of ,  by  Bobert  L.  Jack,  Government  G^lo- 

gist.  Issued  under  the  authority  of  the  Department  of  Public  Works  and  Mines, 
1886.    Scale  1 :  200,000  or  27  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 


594 


HEW  MAPS. 


CHARTS. 

ITluted  States  Charts* — No,  1031,,  Potrero  and  Brazilito  Bojs,  West  Coast  of 
CoBta  Rica.  Price  Is.  ^d, — No.  1044,  Soledad  Bay  and  Santo  Tomaa  Anchorage, 
AVeat  Coaat  of  Ijower  Cftlifomia.  Price  1».  Id,  Published  at  the  Hydrographic 
OfEce,  Navy  Bepajtiuent,  Waahington,  D.C.  J.  R.  Bartlett,  ComnMnder  U,S,N^ 
Hydrographer  to  the  Bureau  of  Navigation, 

ATLABEa  ^1 

Andree,  Richard. ^ — Supplement  zur  ereten  Auflage  von  Richard  Andrces  Hand- 
atlas  enthaltend  die  33  Seiten  aeuer  Karten  der  zweitea  Aufiage  von  1887*  Apart 
fur  die  Besitzer  der  ersten  Aufiage.  Herausgegehen  Ton  der  Geographisohen 
Anfltalt  von  Yelhagen  und  Klasing  in  Leipzig.  In  3  Liefeningen  jede  zu  2  Mark 
{2a.).  3.  Lief.  SchlussHeferung*  Bielefeld  und  Leipzig,  Verlag  von  Velhogen 
k  Klasing,  1887-     (Dulau.) 

Tliis  IB  the  last  issue  of  the  supplement  to  Andree  a  Handatlafl,  and  con- 
tains eight  maps.     No.  2  is  a  map  of  Upper  Italy  which  calls  for  no  special 
mention;  the  hill-work   is^  however,  rjither  flat  in  appearance,  and  hardly 
conveys  a  correct  idea  of  the  physical  features  of  the  conntrj\     No.  19  is  an 
extremely  good  map  of  EaHtern  China  and  the  Corea,  tlie  latest  information 
having  been  used  in  its  construction.     No.  20,  Afghatiistau  and  Balnchistan, 
in  which  the  nurth-wpst  boundary  of  Afghanistani  which  was  the  subject  of 
protracted  discussion,  has  l>een  correctly  laid  down,  and  it  has  in  other  reapecta 
been  brought  up  to  date.     No.  21  is  a  chart  of  the  South-Sea  Islands.     No.  22, 
New  Guinea  and  the  Bismarck  Archii>elago,  exhibits  the  results  of  exploration 
in  New  Guinea  up  to  tli«  end  of  188G,  the  Kaiserm  Augusta  River  in  Kaiser 
Wilheltns  Land^  and  other  recent  discoveries  being  shown.     On  this  sheet  two^U 
inset  mape,  on  ealargetl  scalea,  oiio  of  Astrolabe  Bay,  and  another  of  parts  of  New^f 
Britain  and  New  Ireland^  in  the  vicinity  of  St.  George*s  Channel,  are  given,^^ 
together  with   a  map  of  South-west  Germany,  drawn  on  the  scale  of  the 
principal  map.     No.  31  is  a  map  of  German  East  Africa  in  which  the  extent  of  ^ 
German  possessions  Is  erroneously  indicated,  and  wo  can  Dot  do  better  tlian 
refer  the  reader  to  an  exhaustive  note  on  this  subject,  contained  in  the  R.G.I 
*ProoeedmgB'  for  August  of  the  present  year  (pp.  490-6).     The  territory  i 
the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar  is^  however,  correctly  laid  down  and  shows  at  a  glano 
how  meagre  are  hia  present  jxissessions  in  cctmparison  with  the  vast  extent  < 
cx)untry  over  which  he  claimed  authority  hut  a  few  jeai*s  ago.     No,  34,  Capel 
Colony,  Natal,  &c.,  is  a  well-drawn  map  in  which  ixiUticat  boundaries  and 
physical  features  arc  clearly  indicated.     No ,  35  is  a  map  of  South  and  Central 
Africa,  on  which  an  inset  map  of  the  kingdom  of  Saxony,  drawn  on  the  same 
gcale,  is  given, 

Arg6Etina> — Atlas  Geneml  de  la  Republica ,  construido  segun  los  datos  mas 

recientes  bajo  la  direccion  de  Carlos  Beyer,  Ingeniero  Geografo  de  la  Casa  Editors. 
Orabado  y  Revisado  por  los  S.S.  W.  and  A*  K.  Johnston,  propriedad  eaclusiva  del 
Editor.    Buenos  Aires,  Angel  Estrada,  1887. 

This  atlas  contains  twenty-two  maps,*  the  three  first  being  those  of  the 
world  in  hemispheres,  a  geneml  map  of  South  America,  and  a  general  map  of 
the  Argentine  Republic.  As  each  of  the  thirteen  provinces  is  given  on  a  single 
sheet  the  scales  on  which  they  are  drawn,  of  necessity,  vary  in  proportion  to 
the  areas  represented,  and  the  same  remark  applies  to  those  of  the  Governmenta 
of  Misiones,  Formosa  y  del  Ghaoo,  Pampa  y  del  Rio-Negro,  Neuquen,  Chubut 
y  de  SanU  Craz,  and  Tierra  del  Fue^o.  The  maps  which  this  atlas  contains 
are  the  work  of  Me^rs.  W.  and  A.  K.  Johnston ;  they  are  very  clearly  drawn, 
and  have  been  compiled  from  the  most  recent  sources,  all  railroads  being  shown 
np  to  date,  and  every  road  of  importance  laid  down.  As  a  whole  the  atlas  is  a 
very  creditable  production,  and  is  a  most  important  addition  to  the  cartography 
of  South  America. 


PROCEEDINGS 

OF  TBB 

ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  RECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


Discovery  of  two  new  rivers  in  British  New  Guinea. 

By  Thbodorb  F.  Beyan,  F.B.aj3. 

Kap,  p.  658. 

The  accompanying  map  of  less  than  six  weeks'  exploratory  work  in 
British  New  Guinea  will,  I  trust,  be  found  fairly  full  and  self-explana- 
tory. A  private  firm  (Messrs.  Bums,  Philp,  &  Co.)  lent  their  steamer 
Victory  (of  90  tons  register,  25  horse-power,  100  feet  length  and  9  feet 
draught)  for  the  expedition,  which  was  planned,  organised,  and  (so  far 
as  related  to  the  specialists)  partly  found  by  the  leader.  To  the  courtesy 
of  the  New  South  Wales  Government  we  are  indebted  for  the  carefully 
prepared  map*  which  accompanies  this  short  and  hurriedly  written 
preliminary  account. 

The  Victory  left  Thursday  Island,  Torres  Straits,  on  the  17th  March 
last,  and  entered  the  Aird  river  at  Cape  Blackwood  two  days  later.  At 
Attack  Point  a  hostile  body  of  sixty  nude  Papuans  contested  our  entrance 
to  the  great  river.  These  savages,  after  some  hesitation,  bore  down  upon 
us,  alternately  splashing  the  water  into  the  air  and  beating  time  with 
their  paddles  against  the  sides  of  their  canoes,  also  shooting  volleys  of 
arrows  at  us  both  before  and  after  coming  within  range.  This  attack 
was  decided  in  our  favour,  without  any  bloodshed,  by  a  judicious  use  of 
the  steam-whistle  and  a  few  shots  fired  wide  and  high.  These  harmless 
measures  caused  the  natives  to  take  as  one  man  to  the  water,  prior  to 
re-embarking  and  paddling  off  crestfallen  home.  They  were  painted, 
decorated  with  feather  head-dresses  in  addition  to  other  ornaments,  and 
wore  white  groin  shells  to  partly  conceal  their  nudity.  They  were  above 
the  middle  height,  of  great  muscular  development,  and  of  a  dark  bronze 
colour. 

From  Attack  Point  deep  water  (as  shown  by  the  figures  representing 
reductions  to  low-water  soundings)  was  carried  in  an  easterly  direction 
into  a  broad  opening  leading  to  Aird  Hills  on  the  one  hand,  and  out  into 
Deception  Bay  on  the  other.  This  estuaiy  was,  I  believe,  unnoticed  by 
Captain  Blackwood  in  1845,  who  turned  back  from  the  Aird  river,  when 

*  This  map  is  on  a  very  large  scale ;  the  map  we  give  is  a  reduotion  of  it. — [Ed.] 
No.  X.-.00T.  1887.]  2  Ti 


696  DISCOVERY  OF  TWO  NEW  RIVERS  IN  BRITISH  NEW  GUINEA. 

distant  about  eight  estimated  miles  sontli-westerlj  from  Aird  Hills, 
avowedly  "  owing  to  the  strong  body  of  enemies  in  his  rear."  These 
latter  hills  were  placed  by  ns  in  longitude  144°  11',  or  ten  miles  west  of 
their  location  by  Blackwood. 

From  the  coast  to  this  point  the  country  was  of  alluvial  formation, 
intersected  in  all  directions  by  a  labyrinth  of  waterways.  Aird  Hills 
proved  to  be  an  isolated  range  of  volcanic  tuff  resting  upon  basalt 
boulders  at  the  water-level.  To  the  north  of  Aitd  Hills  a  second  small 
body  of  natives  was  encountered.  They  came  down  in  their  canoes, 
keeping  close  in  to  the  river  banks  until  about  400  yards  distant,  when 
they  landed  in  the  thick  scrub,  and  retutned  with  piles  of  green 
branches  as  a  token  of  peace.  By  signs,  words,  and  the  exercise  of 
patience  they  were  coaxed  first  to  the  boat  sent  out  to  meet  them,  and 
finally  alongside  the  steamer.  Amongst  them  were  a  few  women  and 
children.  Males  and  females  possessed  but  little  covering,  and  in  some 
oases  were  quite  naked.  Of  the  middle  height  and  a  light  bronze 
complexion,  they  reminded  me  of  the  Eoitapuans  of  the  south-east  coast. 

A  river  leading  northward  was  followed  up  from  this  point  for  a  dis- 
tance of  10  miles,  when  the  water  shoaled,  and  a  return  had  to  be  made 
to  the  southward  of  Aird  Hills.  Thence  a  channel  was  found  into  a 
broad  stream  coming  down  from  a  north-westerly  direction,  up  which  we 
proceeded,  through  swampy  alluvial  country,  as  far  as  Bamett  Junction, 
where  the  river  bifurcated  and  the  tide  ceased.  This  proved  to  be  the 
head  of  the  delta.  From  Bamett  Junction  the  river  wound  round  low 
hills  for  a  distance  of  four  miles,  when,  at  a  somewhat  abrupt  bend,  two 
native  houses  on  the  summits  of  volcanic  cones  came  into  view.  It  was 
soon  evident  that  the  strange  apparition  of  the  steamer  gliding  into  these 
fastnesses  was  visible  from  the  shore,  as  the  mellow  sound  of  the  oonoh- 
shell  was  heard  warning  the  inhabitants  of  the  scattered  village  of  danger. 
Slowly  the  steamer  approached,  and  when  abreast  of  the  village,  and 
opposite  a  creek,  some  canoes  full  of  natives  were  seen  paddling  off  in 
abject  terror.  A  mile  above  this  village  the  river  widened,  and  two 
important  tributaries,  coming  in  from  the  north-west  and  north-east, 
formed  Bowden  Junction  in  S.  lat.  7°  11',  E.  long.  144°. 

Seeing  that  the  steamer  had  stopped,  the  natives  of  Tumii  (as  the 
hiU-village  was  called)  approached  in  their  canoes,  but  very  warily.  As 
they  neared  the  steamer  it  was  perceived  that  so  pronounced  were  their 
friendly  feelings  that  they  had  dressed  their  own  persons  with  green 
boughs  as  well  as  their  canoes.  Then  ensued  a  series  of  dumb  motions 
on  our  part  to  express  our  good  intentions,  together  with  the  use  of 
words  likely  to  be  recognised  by  the  natives.  The  next  step  was  to 
bend  a  slip  of  turkey-red  cloth,  a  piece  of  sharpened  hoop-iron,  and  one 
or  two  trifles  on  to  a  wooden  batten,  and  lot  it  drift  with  the  current 
down-stream.  One  native,  bolder  than  the  rest,  paddled  after  this 
parcel  and,  after  cautious  inspection,  appropriated  it,  and  donned  the 


DISCOVERY  OF  TWO  XKW  RIVERS  IX  HRrilSH  NEW  GUINEA.        597 


598 


DISCOVERY  OP  TWO  KEW  ItU'ERS  IN  BRITISH  KEW  GUINEA. 


red  cloth  rs  a  covering  for  his  frizzly  hair*  By  such  ineaiifl  con  fid  once 
was  promoted,  and  taking  with  me  two  men,  I  drifted  slowly  down  in 
the  botit  towards  the  natives,  and  after  overcoming  their  natural  shyness, 
obtained  bone-tipped  arrows  in  harter,  and  taught  theTuniuans  to  shake 
handE, 

This  tnhe  had  certainly  never  seen  and  possihly  bad  never  heard  of 
white  men  before,  Blackwood,  the  only  previous  explorer  in  these  parts, 
not  having  penetrated  within  30  miles  of  this  place* 

From  Bowden  Junction  the  Bums  river^  or  north-west  tributary, 
was  ascended  until  a  fall  in  the  river-bed  of  two  feet  impeded  further 
navigation.  It  was  found  on  landing  that  the  banks  were  8  or  10  feet 
aljove  the  river4evel,  that  the  country  was  studded  with  fine  timber 
and  not  too  dense  an  undergrowth.  Tracks  of  wild  bogs  were  seen,  and 
calls  of  king  birds  of  Paradise  and  Paradisea  raggiana,  hornbille,  parrots, 
pigeons,  and  other  birds  were  heard.  Up  this  river  tho  Tuma  natives 
again  visited  us  and  bad  to  be  attended  to.  When  the  shades  of  evening 
fell  they  glided  off  borne,  beating  time  with  their  paddles  against  the 
sides  of  their  canoes,  splashing  the  water  high  into  the  air,  chanting  a 
lowd  song,  occasionally  looking  round  and  crying  out  *'  Narmo !  Narmo  l " 
to  show  that  tlieir  intentions  were  friendly. 

Up  the  north-cast  tributary,  or  Philp  river,  however,  deep  water 
was  carried  as  far  as  Victory  Junction,  the  river  winding  round  bills 
of  from  300  to  2000  feet  in  height,  of  cretaceous  limestone  formation, 
in  places  sloping  precipitously  and  thickly  wooded  to  the  water's 
edge.  A  short  distance  above  Victory  Junction  was  found  a  mineral 
spring,  similar  in  some  respects  to  the  sulphuretted  hydrogen  waters  of 
Harrogate*  Ahove  this  point,  however,  rocky  bars  or  barriers,  over 
which  the  water  ran  as  through  a  sluice-gate,  closed  the  river  to  navi- 
gation by  tho  steamer.  Thirteen  miles  were  added  to  our  knowledge  of 
this  part  of  the  country  hy  means  of  a  boat- party,  which  reached  Fastre 
Island  after  three  days'  hard  rowing  and  warping  the  boat  up  the  river 
hanks,  in  some  cases  foot  by  foot  at  a  time.  Thence  a  track  was  cut  for 
four  miles  along  the  lower  spurs  of  a  lofty  range,  and  through  dense 
tropical  jungle. 

At  tho  alluvial  island  camping-place  (marked,  on  map»  '*  Boat-party, 
1st  April,  1887  ")  pebbles  of  water- worn  metamorphic  slate,  diorite,  also 
magnetic  iron  sand  yielding  from  every  dish  washed  a  few  colours  (less 
than  a  pinVhead  in  size)  of  scaly  gold,  were  obtained.  The  formation 
on  either  bank  of  the  river  opposite  to  this  island,  as  also  at  the  highest, 
point  reached  by  means  of  the  track  cut,  was  of  dense  basalt.  Specimens 
of  these  were  forwarded  to  Mr.  Wilkinson,  Government  Geologist  of 
New  South  Wales,  who  reports  as  follows:—**  The  pebbles  of  slate  and 
quartz  found  on  the  island  in  the  Philp  river  are  indicative  of  formations 
which  sometimes  contain  auriferous  reefs,  as  well  as  copper  and  other 
metaEiferous   lodes.      These   pebbles,  though  originally  derived  from 


DISCOVERT  OF  TWO  NEW  RIVEHS  IK  BRITISH  KEW  GUINEiL 


600 


DISCOVERY  OF  TWO  NEW  RIVERS  IN  BRITISH  NEW  GUINEA. 


palreozoio  rocks,  may  have  been  washed  out  of  conglomerate  beds  suoii 
as  occur  in  tlie  cretaceous  formation  on  the  Strickland  river;  but  from 
the  occurrence  of  gold  in  the  black  sand  which  is  found  with  them,  it  is 
more  probable  that  both  they  and  the  gold  have  been  brought  down  l:»y 
the  river  from  the  primary  formation  forming  the  mountains,  which  may 
not  be  more  than  20  or  30  miles  distant.  We  may  therefore  anticipate 
mineral  discoveries  being  made  in  these  mountains,  though  not  neoes- 
earily  richer  than  are  found  in  similar  formations  forming  the  ranges  in 
ihe  mining  districJe  of  Australia," 

In  April  the  wet  season  is  not  fairly  over.  The  normal  strength  of 
the  current  on  these  ridges,  combined  with  the  freshets  caused  by  the 
almost  nightly  rains,  rendered  further  progress  by  means  of  the  boat 
impracticable.  The  same  cause  also  rendered  any  hope  of  getting  to 
the  primary  rocks  in  the  three  weeks  which  remained  of  our  allotted 
time,  over  ranges  drenched  by  the  monsoon  and  swarming  with 
ravenous  leeches,  quite  out  of  the  question.  The  estimated  position  of 
Fastre  Island  was  6^  39'  S.  lat.,  1«^  11'  E.  long.,  being  80  miles  direct 
from  Cape  Blackwood,  or  about  100  miles  by  the  river  course.  At 
this  point  we  were  within  21^  miles  of  the  German  boundary. 

At  3.30  p.m.,  on  April  3rd,  a  start  was  made  with  the  whaleboat  on 
the  down-oourate  and  return  journey.  All  were  found  to  be  well  on 
board  the  Vidorif. 

On  the  following  day  the  steamer  proceeded  to  return,  and  in  the 
afternoon  anchorage  was  come  to  opposite  the  friendly  Tumii  village,  the 
inhabitants  of  which  lustily  shouted  **  Narmo,"  in  token  of  the  good 
feeling  that  existed  between  us.  An  exchange  of  visits  was  made  ;  I 
went  ashore  in  the  dingy,  and  after  my  return  the  natives  came  on 
board  the  steamer*  A  vocabulary  of  a  hundred  words  was,  after  some 
difficulty,  obtained  from  the  nativea.  Blen,  women,  and  children 
examined  every  niche  and  cranny  open  to  their  inspection  on  the  vessel, 
and  displayed  amazement  at  what  they  saw.  Afterwards  another  visit 
was  paid  to  the  shorCj  the  boat  being  taken  up  a  creek  skirting  the 
nearest  volcanic  cone  on  which  reeted  the  chiefs  bouse.  The  gardens 
of  the  villagers  were  soon  reached,  where  sugar-cane,  bananas,  and 
tobacco  were  growing  luxuriantly.  Off  the  river  bank,  opposite  to  the 
village,  were  one  or  two  interesting  limestone  caves  thickly  crusted  with 
stalactites  and  stalagmites. 

Next  day,  April  5th,  the  natives  again  came  on  board  and  examined 
eveiythingtone  being  horrified  at  seeing  f^alt-beef  in  a  cask,  and  another 
terror-struck  at  seeing  his  own  ugly  reflection  in  a  mirror.  Several  of 
them  now  began  to  exhibit  thievish  propensities.  Finally,  the  natives 
when  we  landed  on  shore  once  more  began  repeating  the  word  **  Ootoo," 
and  waving  their  arms  downstream.  They  had  apparently  sufficiently 
satisfied  their  curiosity,  and  would  be  glad  to  say  good-bye  to  the  white 
men  and  thuir  vessel.     One  very  old  and  wrinkled  man  rubbed  his  nose 


DISCOVERT  OF  TWO  NEW  RIVERS  IN  BRITISH  NEW  GUINEA.  601 

and  pinched  the  tip  of  it,  then  pinched  and  rubbed  the  pit  of  his 
stomach.  Another  signified  by  signs  the  act  of  cutting  off  the  head 
and  arms,  using  the  words  "  oorar,"  and  "  baddinar." 

The  mountain  ranges  to  the  north  they  called  "  Warharagee  " ;  their 
own  hill,  houses,  and  the  country  to  the  west,  "  Tumu  " ;  the  country  to 
the  east,  "  Imugii " ;  and  the  land  to  the  south,  "  KubOee."  A  peculiarity 
of  the  Tumuans  was  the  way  in  which  the  men  wore  their  hair,  shaving 
it  off  from  above  the  forehead,  but  leaving  a  tuft  on  the  crown  tied  with 
a  topknot  from  behind,  while  a  few  matted  locks  hung  down.  No 
known  Papuan  dialect  would  have  been  of  use  at  Tumu. 

When  leaving  the  Douglas  river,  a  broad  opening  unnoticed  by 
Blackwood,  leading  from  Aird  Hills  out  to  sea  through  Deception  Bay, 
was  taken,  but  we  first  made  a  stay  at  the  previously  unknown  village 
of  Moko. 

While  the  Tumuans  were  of  average  height  and  size,  these  coast 
people  were  of  great  stature  and  muscular  development,  besides  being 
of  a  darker  bronze  colour.  Like  the  other  natives  of  this  new  district, 
the  Mokoans  were  shy  and  at  first  difficult  of  approach.  Even  when 
intercourse  was  had  with  them  they  remained  suspicious  and  on  the 
alert,  while  the  slightest  hasty  action  or  even  discordant  sound  was 
sufficient  to  scare  them  away. 

Deep  water  was  carried  out  of  Deception  Bay  on  9th  April,  1887,  into 
the  Gulf  of  Papua,  as  will  be  seen  from  the  soundings  on  the  map,  and 
a  visit  was  then  paid  to  several  villages  on  the  coast  as  far,  and  in- 
cluding, Motu  Motu,  where  despatches  were  left  for  Her  Majesty's  Special 
Commissioner  for  British  New  Guinea,  Hon.  John  Douglas ;  so  that 
should  any  mishap  have  befietllen  the  expedition  on  the  latter  half  of  its 
exploratory  work,  the  discovery  of  the  Douglas  and  Philp  rivers  would 
not  be  lost  to  the  world. 

As  will  be  seen  by  reference  to  Admiralty  chart  (Gulf  of  Papua, 
sheet  4),  five  river  openings  between  Orokolo  and  Bald  Head  had  been 
reported  by  natives  to  lead  into  one  large  river,  to  discover  which  was 
our  next  object.  The  mouth  of  each  opening,  however,  proved  to  be 
blocked  by  a  sand-bar,  washed  by  heavy  surf.  The  broad  estuaiy 
bounded  by  Bald  Head  on  the  east  and  sheltered  by  a  non-shifting  sand- 
bank (seen  by  Blackwood  in  1845)  proved  to  be  accessible  to  navigation, 
and  the  Victory  anchored  inside  of  Bald  Head  on  the  night  of  14th  April, 
1887,  and  broke  again  on  new  ground.  In  a  little  neighbouring  bight  a 
village  was  discovered,  pcuily  hidden  and  sheltered  by  a  grove  of  coco- 
nut trees.  Canoes  with  natives  paddled  o£^  and  though  shy  at  first,  they 
afterwards  came  near.  The  tribe  was  called  Kiwa  Pori.  Over  two 
hundred  men  appeared  in  thirty  canoes.  One  of  their  signs  was  to  hide 
their  lowered  heads  in  their  hands  and  then  to  draw  their  hands  down 
over  cheeks,  mouth,  chin,  neck,  breast  and  abdomen.  At  dusk  they 
peacefully  dispersed;  and  next  morning  forty-nine  oanoes  with  more 


602 


DISCOVEKY  OFiTWO  KEW  RIVERS  IN  BRITISH  NEW  GUINEA. 


tban  three  huDdred  natives  were  counted.  Tlxe  men  were  of  nmifiually 
fme  stature,  equalling  those  at  Motu  Motu.  They  were  dark  bronze  in 
colour,  and  almost,  some  of  them  entirely,  nude.  Though  with  well* 
nourished  and  muscular  frames,  yet  their  retreating  foreheads  and  heavy 
eyebrows  gave  them  a  sinister  expression. 

Ten  miles  from  Bald  Head  in  a  northerly  direction  the  land  was 
found  to  traverse  the  horizon,  and  broad  sheet©  of  water  coming  in  firom 
west  and  east  formed  a  junction.  Taking  the  w^esterly  opening  and 
passing  round  the  point,  after  proceeding  for  a  distance  of  four  miles  a 
second  (named  Beveridge)  junction  was  reached.  At  this  point  the 
river  was  nearly  half  a  mile  wide,  and  an  extensive  mud  flat  was  found. 
Some  very  fair  agricultural  land  was  now  passed,  with  light  chocolate- 
coloured  soil,  and  covered  with  scrub  that  could  be  cleared  with  ease, 
and  would  form  a  enitable  field  for  the  cultivation  of  rice,  sugar-cane, 
and  tobacco.  Fresh-water  springs  were  notioed  flowing  over  the  banks. 
Numerous  very  small  deserted  huts  built  on  the  ground  and  unsupported 
by  the  usual  piles,  were  passed,  and  a  number  of  crocodiles  and  flying 
foxes  were  seen.  The  country  afterwards  steamed  through  was  alluvial 
swampy  land,  in  which  nipa  and  sago  palms  flourished  amidst  a  thick 
scrub.  The  river  subsequently  narrowed  to  60  yards,  and  at  low  tide 
the  water  was  quite  fresh.  It  was  found  necessary  to  anchor  here,  and 
some  of  the  party  getting  into  the  whale-boat,  rowed  up  the  river,  which 
continued  to  get  narrower  until  it  broke  up  into  several  deep*water 
creeks  of  only  a  few  yards  in  width,  and  further  navigation  was  closed. 
The  highest  point  reached  up  this  (the  Stanhope)  river  was  7^  14'  S.  lat, 
and  144^  28'  E.  long.,  being  34  tailes  due  north  from  Arai  river  on  the 
coast,  or  40  miles  by  river  courses  to  Bald  Head.  lieturning  to  Beveridgo 
Junction  the  Penrose  river  was  followed  up  for  six  miles,  when  it  too 
shoaled,  and  a  return  had  to  be  made  to  Macleay  junction.  Thence  an 
easterly  branch  was  explored  in  the  whale-boat  and  found  to  lead 
into  a  larger  river  which  sent  off  a  subdivision  down  to  the  coasL  This 
latter  was  presumably  the  ^lawau  river  previously  charted. 

A  few  miles  further,  after  passing  a  small  grove  of  coco-nut  trees 
indicating  the  proximity  of  natives,  a  canoe  was  almost  run  into  at  a 
sudden  bend.  The  occupants,  consisting  of  a  few  men,  women,  and 
children,  sot  up  a  shrill  cry  and  paddled  off  hastily.  A  few  minutes 
later  some  twenty  savages  sprang  up  from  behind  bushes  on  the  opposite 
bank,  bows  and  arrows  in  hand,  while  simultaneously  several  canoes 
came  down  from  ahead.  Rowing  back  past  the  shore  natives  we  then 
stopped,  and  waited  for  those  on  the  water  to  approach,  wdth  whom 
after  a  natural  delay  some  barter  was  done,  and  the  foundations  were 
aid  for  amicable  intercourse.  On  the  day  following,  the  steamer  was 
token  up  to  their  village,  which  lined  the  river  bank  under  groves  of 
coco-nut  and  bread-fruit  trees,  and  near  gardens  of  banana  and  sugar- 
cane*    The  houses  of  this  village,  or  Evorra  (as  wo  found  it  was  called)^ 


J 


DISCOVERY  OF  TWO  NEW  RIVERS  IN  BRITISH  NEW  GUINEA.  603 

were  supported  on  piles  some  six  feet  from  the  ground,  and  were  of  the 
hog-baoked  shape,  open  in  front,  with  projecting  peaks,  and  the  usual 
verandah.  From  this  tribe  (in  the  Namai  district)  a  vocabulary  of 
one  hundred  words  was  obtained  after  some  difficulty.  The  word  for 
sun,  ipenriy  being  given  with  a  whisper,  fiuger  pointing  upwards,  but 
averted  gaze.  These  Evorra  natives,  though  only  some  12  or  15  miles 
distant  in  a  direct  line  from  the  coast,  were  not  of  so  fine  a  physique  as 
either  the  Eiwa  Porians  or  Mokoans,  probably  owing  to  their  river  being 
less  abundant  in  fish  than  the  ocean.  They  also  seemed  to  be  of  a  some- 
what lighter  complexion,  and  to  speak  a  different  dialect.  Carved  and 
painted  bark  waist-belts  tightly  pinched  the  abdomens  of  the  males,  who 
also  wore  white  groin  shells  and  pearl-shell  breastplates  of  crescent  shape, 
while  the  younger  men  adorned  their  persons  with  the  brilliant  leaves  of 
variegated  crotons.  Among  novelties  obtained  at  this  viUage  were  flat 
masks  of  semi-oval  shape,  varying  in  length  from  one  to  eight  feet.  These 
were  constructed  of  fibre  of  a  sterculiaceous  plant  with  a  raised  rim  down 
the  middle  from  top  to  bottom,  and  at  one  end  a  projection  shaped  like  a 
nose  with  two  eye-apertures  alongside.  The  whole  was  decorated  with 
an  irregular  semi-serpentine  pattern  in  black  and  white,  and  the  rims 
were  edged  with  cane  frilling.  Human  and  cabalistic  representations 
carved  on  small  fiat  slabs  of  bark  and  palm  frond  were  also  new  to  my 
previous  experience  of  Papuan  ethnology.  Specimens  of  both  descrip- 
tions of  these  curios  were  hung  up  in  front  of  the  houses  apparently  as 
emblems. 

Two  miles  from  Evorra  village  a  second  junction  was  reached,  where 
a  river  over  two  hundred  yards  broad,  with  a  steady  current  of  fresh 
water,  came  down  and  bifurcated,  throwing  off  the  side  branch  which 
we  had  steamed  up,  in  addition  to  a  river  fiowing  southerly.  Five  miles 
above  Llewellyn  Junction  a  few  natives  were  spoken,  but  from  that  on 
to  the  highest  point  reached  no  signs  of  human  life  presented  themselves, 
save  at  different  places  (as  marked  on  the  map)  groups  of  small  and 
seemingly  deserted  huts,  sometimes  surrounded  by  gardens.  These  little 
domiciles  consisted  of  one  or  two  stakes  and  a  roof  thatched  over  with 
palm  fronds,  and  were  probably  the  temporary  shelter  of  coast  tribes 
paying  occasional  visits  up  the  river  to  obtain  sago  and  other  like  pro- 
duce which  abounded  in  the  swampy  country  on  the  Stanhope,  also  in 
the  deltaic  portion  of  the  larger  rivers.  In  one  deserted  hut,  exceeding 
the  others  in  size,  was  found  fixed  up  in  front  a  "  taboo  "  consisting  of 
a  painted  mask  resting  on  a  large  circular  wisp  of  sago-palm  fibre  and 
rattan,  with  pendent  streamers  of  the  same  fibrous  material;  while 
half-way  down  the  floor  of  the  hut  were  bones  of  fishes  and  small  deer 
suspended  from  streamers. 

Up  to  Bennett  Junction  the  river  pursued  a  remarkably  tortuous 
course,  and  at  that  point  widened  to  nearly  half  a  mile.  Five  miles 
further,  at  Woodhouse  Junction,  the  head  of  the  delta  of  the  large  river 


604 


DISCOVERY  OF  TWO  NEW  KIYERS  IN  BRITISH  NEW  GUINEA. 


previouflly  reported  by  the  natives  waa  readied ,  At  an  eaaterly  bend 
about  one  mile  north  of  Mount  Samuel,  where  the  stream  expanded  to 
nearly  three-quarters  of  a  mOe  for  a  short  distance  before  entering  the 
riilges,  a  magnificent  view  was  obtained  of  hill  and  mountain  scenery 
rising  tier  above  tier  in  the  clear  nioi-ning  air,  over  a  foreground  of 
reeds  and  PandanuB  scrub.  Above  this  bend  the  river  naiTowed  to 
400  yards,  flowing  between  banks  covered  with  bread-fruit  trees.  Fur- 
ther north  the  channel  ran  through  gorges  of  volcanic  rocks  clothed 
with  verdant  foliage  to  tho  water's  edge.  Here  the  whirling  eddies 
denoted  the  presence  of  sunken  rocks  underlying  the  swift  eurreot  in 
the  bed  of  the  stream.  Higher  up  again  a  rapid  waa  shot  with  some 
difficulty,  owing  to  the  velocity  of  the  water.  Its  discoloration  was  due 
in  this  case,  as  on  the  Philp  river^  to  the  amount  of  detritus  in  sus- 
pension brought  down  from  the  great  mountains.  Half  a  mile  above 
this  rapid  it  was  deemed  unsafe  to  proceed  further  in  a  vessel  drawing 
nine  feet  of  water.     Estimated  position,  S.  kt.  7°  18',  E.  long,  144'^  59*'. 

Two  miles  were  added,  however,  by  means  of  the  boat,  and  thence  an 
unintermpted  view  for  a  like  stretch  was  obtained ;  but  sonndings  be- 
came more  and  more  irregular.  There  seemed  some  possibility,  however, 
that  beyond  this  tier  of  near  ranges  a  vaOey  stretched  to  the  foot  of 
mountains  of  great  altitude  over  the  German  boundary.  As  the  six  weeks 
of  our  allotted  time  were  nearly  up,  and  representations  were  made  to 
me  of  the  risk  of  continuing,  also  that  our  coal  would  not  suffice  for 
further  stoaming,  it  became  necessary  to  return  seawards  by  means  of 
the  channeln  aBcended,  and  consequently  kno^vna.  To  have  taken  any  of 
the  untried  channels  in  the  delta  would  have  been  unsafe  in  view  of  the 
current  astern,  which  might  have  carried  the  steamer  high  and  dry  on 
to  any  bidden  shoah  The  Gixlf  of  Papua  was  again  entered  from  Bald 
Head  on  28th  AprU,  1887. 

It  wiU  appear  from  the  map  that  as  the  result  of  thirty-four  days* 
actual  exploration  two  principal  new  rivers — namely,  the  Douglas  (with 
its  tributary  the  Philp)  and  the  Queen's  Jubilee — were  discovered,  and 
each  was  followed  up  for  a  distance  of  nearly  100  miles  by  river  coureos 
from  the  coast*  The  Aird  river,  discovered  by  Blackwood  in  1845,  proves 
to  be  only  one  of  numerous  subdivisions  in  the  delta  of  the  main  stream. 
From  Bamett  Junction,  the  head  of  the  delta  of  the  Douglas  river, 
45  miles  from  the  coast,  Aird  Hills  are  the  solitary  exception  to  the  vast 
expanse  of  level  alluvial  land,  clothed  with  jungle,  which  forms  the  delta. 
From  Baruett  Junction  to  the  highest  point  reached,  the  country  was 
Kcrubby,  and  of  cretaceous  limestone  formation,  giving  place  to  a  belt  of 
basalt  rocks,  while  the  pebbles  of  metamorphic  slate,  diorite,  also  the 
magnetic  iron  sand  containing  auriferous  indications  found  on  the  alluvial 
island  in  the  PhOp  river,  point  to  the  primary  rocks  as  forming  the 
watershed  of  this  river  at  a  distance  of  probably  not  exceeding  20  to 
30  mileSi  if  so  much,  from  the  highest  points  reached.    By  the  Stanhope 


■ 


DISGGfVERT  OF  TWO  NEW  RIVERS  IN  BRITISH  NEW  GUINEA.  605 

and  Penrose  rivers  the  expedition  passed  through,  low  country  similar  to 
that  in  the  deltaio  portions  of  the  larger  riversy  and  formed  of  fertile 
alluvium  washed  down  from  the  main  range.  Igneous  rocks  again  were 
found  north  of  Woodhouse  Junction,  on,  the  Queen's  Jubilee  river.  Both 
rivers  disembogue  themselves  into  the  Gulf  of  Papua  over  an  area  re- 
spectively of  probably  40  miles.  Above  the  head  of  the  deltas  of  the 
two  larger  rivers  the  scenery  was  found  to  be  picturesque  in  the  extreme. 
Hills  of  from  a  few  hundred  feet  to  ranges  of  one,  two,  and  even  three 
thousand  feet,  clothed  with  verdure,  came  down  almost  to  the  water's 
edge.  There  were,  amongst  other  trees,  cedars,  oaks,  eucalypti,  myristica, 
fig-trees,  acacias,  pines,  palms,  and  tree-ferns.  Bamboos,  ferns,  and  a 
varied  flora  adorned  the  river  bank.  Butterflies  of  gaudy  hue  and  some 
birds  of  the  brightest  plumage  fluttered  in  and  out  amongst  the  trees 
and  shrubs.  The  water  was  placid,  and  in  the  deepest  recesses  of  the 
gorge-like  ranges,  was  sombre  and  cold. 

On  steaming  slowly  upwards  the  finely  wooded  ranges  became 
higher,  the  river  bends  more  abrupt,  and  the  current  swifter.  On  both 
rivers  the  country  thus  described  was  of  a  good  useful  class,  quite  unin- 
habited as  far  as  could  be  perceived.  It  also  possesses  three  great 
advantages— plenty  of  timber,  deep  water  alongside,  and  a  navigable 
channel  for  a  deep-draughted  vessel  for  a  distance  of  nearly  100  miles 
from  the  coast.  Yast  areas  of  unclaimed  and  uninhabited  land  on  all 
these  new  rivers  offer  the  facilities  required  for  the  successful  cultivation 
of  rice,  sugar-cane,  and  tobacco ;  or  for  the  production  of  what  are  known 
in  India  as  valuable  crops  in  contradistinction  to  **  dry  crops."  For  the 
prosecution  of  these  industries  coolie  labour  would  have  to  be  imported. 
In  their  lower  portion  there  was  a  tidal  rise  and  fall  of  12  to  14  feet; 
and  the  rule  seemed  to  apply  that  the  land  was  making  on  the  convex 
side  while  the  deepest  channel  and  strongest  current  were  found  close  in 
to  the  concave  bank.  Thus  by  studying  the  tides,  and  when  the  tide 
ceased,  following  the  deepest  channels,  in  addition  to  taking  continuous 
soundings,  no  serious  difSculties  were  met  with.  Though  the  steamer 
was  several  times  aground,  for  hours  at  a  time,  as  a  rule  in  soft  mud, 
either  a  freshet  in  the  river,  or  the  tidal  rise  near  the  coast  (backing  up 
the  fresh  water  for  one  or  two  feet  for  great  distances  inland)  came  to 
our  aid,  and  the  vessel  floated  off  without  ever  sustaining  damage.  One 
important  feature  in  connection  with  the  higher  waters  of  the  larger 
rivers  was  that  owing  to  the  almost  daily  scouring  caused  by  the  frequent 
nightly  rains,  mosquitoes  and  malaria  were  absent,  and  beyond  the  fact 
that  one  man  had  a  relapse  for  a  few  hours  of  illness  caught  months 
previously  in  Western  Australia,  fever  and  ague  were  unknown. 

The  days  were  almost  invariably  bright,  and  the  sky  clear  till  noon 
when  masses  of  cumuli  appeared  on  the  horizon.  While  among  the 
ranges  on  both  rivers  the  thunder  at  nights  was  frequently  almost 
deafening  and  the  forked  lightning  most  vivid^  both  tbeing  uraally  the 


606 


DISCOVERY  OF  TWO  NEW  RIVERS  IN  BRITISH  NEW  GCINEA. 


precursorB  of  torrential  rain.  The  mean  temperaturo  at  midday  was  86^ 
in  the  shade,  falling  as  low  as  72"^  at  daybreak.  During  March  and  April 
there  was  occasionally  a  slight  breeze  ofT  the  land  at  night-time.  The 
mornings  in  March  frequently  set  in  with  a  breeze  from  the  north-west, 
-veering  round  to  sonth-weflt  as  the  day  advanced.  At  the  end  of  April 
the  south-east  monsoon  began  to  fume  and  bluster  off  the  Queensland 
coast,  causing  a  heavy  swell  to  wash  the  opposite  Papuan  shores.  By 
reference  to  the  map  it  will  be  seen  that  the  Gulf  of  Papua  presents 
a  lee  shore  to  the  whole  force  of  the  south-east  monsoon.  Making  the 
entrances  of  these  new  rivera  will  therefore  not  be  unattended  by 
dangers  to  navigation^  from  May  to  September  inclusive,  until  this  part 
of  the  coast  has  been  systematically  surveyed  by  the  Admiralty. 

The  map  is  based  upon  a  careful  compass  survey,  supported  by  a 
few  astronomical  observations  taken  as  opportunity  offered.  It  should, 
however,  be  regarded  as  a  preliminary  reconnaissance  or  flying  survey, 
since  it  was  oompiled  in  thirty- four  days,  that  being  the  aggregate 
period  spent  by  the  expedition  in  these  new  rivers.  For  the  same 
reason,  as  also  the  circumstance  of  imperfect  inBtrumcnts,  the  altitude 
of  the  mountains  and  the  great  slope  of  the  river-beds  could  not  be 
obtained  with  any  pretensions  to  absolute  accuracy  on  this  occasion. 
These  and  kindred  observations,  together  with  a  register  of  rainfall^ 
must  make  a  leading  feature  of  the  next  (and  it  is  to  be  hoped  more 
extended)  expedition* 

Hills  and  ranges  varying  from  a  few  hundred  to  consitlerably  over 
2000  feet,  clothed  with  verdure,  came  down  almost  to  the  water's  edge 
on  the  Philp  and  Jubilee  rivers,  as  previously  mentioned,  while  thd 
serrated  forest-clad  tops  of  mountains  estimated  to  bo  over  60QO  feet  in 
altitude,  were  distant  not  more  than  12  or  15  miles  from  the  highest 
points  reached.  Behind  these  latter  again  rose  blue  mountain-peaks, 
rivalling  in  elevation  Mounts  Yule  and  Owen  Stanley. 

Fastre  Island,  on  the  PhUp  river,  would  appear  to  be  not  more  than 
25  miles  distant  from  the  German  boundary,  which  comes  even  nearer 
to  tho  highest  point  reached  by  us  on  the  Jubilee  river.  It  seems 
therefore  probable  that  the  natural  boundary'"  or  water-parting  between 
the  river  systems  of  the  two  territories  may  be  found  to  exist  a  few 
miles  to  the  north  of  the  present  line.  In  any  case  there  is  probably 
an  impenetrable  wall  of  mountains  between  the  two  posflessiouB,  with 
no  likelihood  of  any  large  river  on  the  German  side  having  its  sotiroe 
in  close  proximity  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Philp  or  Jubilee  rivers,  so 
that  a  compromise  or  adjustment  should  if  necessary  be  readily  effected 
between  the  two  powers.  This  boundary  question  will,  however,  b© 
one  of  the  most  important  problems  for  any  future  expeditiodi  to 
definitely  determine. 

The  new  regions  explored  proved  but  thinly  peopled.  All  the 
natives  met  with»  except  ^tho  hostile  Papuans  at  Attack  Point|  were 


DISCOVERY  OF  TWO  NEW  RIVERS  IN  BRITISH  NEW  GUINEA.  607 

readily  amenable  to  hnmane  influence.  The  two  largest  tribes,  and  these 
were  found  on  the  coast,  as  might  have  been  expected,  namely,  those  of 
Moko  in  Deception  Bay,  and  the  Eiwa  Fori  at  Bald  Head,  numbered 
probably  considerably  less  than  one  thousand  souls,  all  told ;  while 
the  small  tribe  behind  Aird  Hills  and  the  Tumuans  combined  were  only 
some  two  or  three  hundred  strong.  Not  more  than  a  dozen  Pimuriians 
or  Vaimuruans  were  seen,  while  the  Evorra  natives  possessed  some 
fifteen  houses  only,  and  a  population  which  might  be  very  liberally 
estimated  at  two  hundred.  No  natives  at  all  were  seen  on  the  Philp 
river,  nor  north  of  25  miles  by  river  courses  from  the  coast  up  the 
Jubilee  river.  It  would  therefore  appear  that  the  higher  waters  of 
these  rivers,  and  even  for  some  considerable  distances  before  they  enter 
the  gorges  and  near  the  main  ranges,  are  uninhabited.  Long  rambles 
into  the  bush  for  collecting  purposes  whenever  opportunity  offered 
seemed  also  to  confirm  this  view. 

The  natives  of  the  few  villages  referred  to  gave  indications  of 
Dravidian  origin,  as  well  as  of  both  Moluccan  and  Melanesian  character- 
istics, to  judge  from  dialects,  appearances,  and  customs.  From  the  new 
tribe  behind  Aird  Hills  a  long  screen  of  latticework,  such  as  is  used  in 
Siam  to  this  day  for  stretching  across  the  mouths  of  creeks  to  ensnare 
fish,  was  obtained.  It  is  put  by  the  New  Guinea  natives  to  the  same 
use,  namely,  that  of  forming  a  weir ;  also  the  war  shields  of  the  Kiwa 
Pori  natives  resembled,  not  indistinctly,  those  until  lately  in  use  in  New 
Caledonia.  All  these  new  tribes  wore  nose  pencils,  and  distended  the 
lobes  of  their  ears,  also  smoked  sun-dried  tobacco  (corresponding  to  the 
Manilla  leaf)  by  means  of  bamboo  tubes.  The  Tumuans  especially 
might  be  described  as  almost  of  an  intellectual  cast. 

The  canoes  of  all  these  tribes  were  of  a  more  or  less  similar  type, 
namely,  dug-outs  with  either  a  bank  of  mud  or  a  small  boy  squatting 
in  the  prow  and  opposing  his  back  as  an  obstacle  to  the  incoming  water. 
All  were  without  outriggers.  Some,  however,  were  of  unusual  dimen- 
sions ;  one  Kiwa  Pori  canoe  holding  twenty-nine  men,  who  all  stood  up 
to  paddle.  Not  a  few  were  grotesquely  carved  and  painted  outside  to 
represent  either  inverted  turtle-shells  or  crocodile  scales.  We  were  not 
a  little  amused  at  the  action  of  one  Moko  native,  who,  singly  in  his 
fragile  canoe,  baled  the  water  out  by  a  motion  of  his  left  foot,*  keeping 
his  balance,  and  paddling  vigorously  against  the  choppy  sea  meanwhile. 

In  the  nomenclature  adopted  on  the  map  every  member  of  the 
expedition  is  represented.  The  three  principal  rivers  are  named  re- 
spectively to  commemorate  the  leading  event  in  the  year  of  their  dis- 
covery, namely,  the  anniversary  of  the  fiftieth  year  of  Her  Majesty's 
reign  ;  also  the  names  of  the  Hon.  John  Douglas  (Special  Commissioner 
for  British  New  Guinea)  ;  and  Mr.  Robert  Philp  (to  whose  intelligent 
liberality  these  discoveries  are  greatly  due). 

This  six  weeks'  expedition,  though  primarily  planned  mainly  for 


608      THE  RAUn  MCERIS  ;  OR  STORAGE  RESERVOIR  OF  MIDDLE  EGYPT. 

g^ogmphical  discovery,  was  by  no  means  barren  in  collateral  results. 
Fifty  pliotographsj  including  many  of  new  tribes  and  scenery,  were 
obtained,  and  interesting  additions  to  our  knowledge  of  the  flora,  fauna, 
and  anthropology  of  New  Guinea  ha^e  been  contributed  by  meana  of 
the  collectionB  made. 


TJie  Bamn  Moeris ;  or  storage  reservoir  of  Middle  Egypt, 
By  Cope  Whitehouse,  ka/ 

Mapj  p.  65d. 

It  is  now  generally  known,  as  the  result  of  my  researches  previously 
communicated  to  the  scientific  world ,|  that  the  Baian  basin  is  a  depression 
to  the  south  and  west  of  the  Fayoum,  between  lat.  28''  40'  and  lat  29°  30\ 
Its  northern  extremity  is  nearly  on  a  line  with  Beni-Suef,  73  miles  south 
of  Cairo.  It  is  connected  on  the  south-east  with  a  narrow  valley  known 
as  the  Wadi  Mu61ah.  I  have  heretofore  described  how  I  was  led  to 
believe  that  some  such  depression  must  exist,  and  bow,  at  first  alone, 
and  subsequently  accompanied  by  engineers  employed  by  me,  or  put  at 
my  disposal  by  the  Egyptian  Government,  these  observations  were 
verified.  It  was  my  opinion  that  about  the  eighteenth  century  before 
onr  era,  foreign  engineers  bad  conceived  a  gigantic  scheme  for  the 
draining  of  the  Fayouoi,  and  the  redemption  of  the  Delta.  They  had 
constructed  a  dyke  at  el-Lahun,  with  a  regulator  by  which  the  supply 
of  Nile  w^ater  was  reduced  to  the  amount  required  for  the  perennial 
irrigation  of  a  province,  which  the  Jews  in  the  time  of  St.  Jerome 
identified  with  Goshen,  and  in  the  twelfth  century  asserted  to  be  Pi  thorn.. 
The  dyke  still  serves  its  original  purpose.  They  bad  also  availed  them.- 
selves  of  a  series  of  drainage  channels  under  the  west  bank  of  the 
Nile  valley.  By  deepening  the  natural  watercourses,  diverting  the 
flood  waters  of  the  Nile,  and  protecting  the  stream  at  intervals  by  dykes, 
they  succeeded  in  making  a  canal  which  for  over  three  thousand  years 
—from  the  Exodus  to  the  present  time — has  continuously  supplied  the 
Fayoum  with  water.  It  is  270  miles  in  length,  and  with  its  immense 
discharge,  U  far  beyond  any  similar  work  in  the  world.  Known  as  the 
Bahr  Jubuf,  or  Canal  of  Joseph,  it  deserves  the  name,  w^hether  it  he  due 
to  the  Hebrew  engineer  who  is  said  to  have  designed  it,  or  to  the 
meaning  of  the  word  which,  m  popular  parlance,  implied  that  the 
reproach  of  barrenness  had  been  taken  away  by  this  offspring  from  the 
Nile,  and  a  new  province  added  to  l^gypt. 

In  order  to  extend  cultivation  throughout  the  entire  delta  it  is 
necessary  to  increatse  the  summer  supply  of  water  in  the  river  itself. 
It  had  been  suggested  by  French  engineers  that  a  dam  might  be  built 

•  Uead  at  the  Mancheeter  Meetmg  of  the  Btiti.^h  AsBooiation,  September  2nd,  1887. 
t  VWe  *  Froccediijgs,'  1884,  p.  601 ;  1885,  p.  756;  1886,  p.  445. 


: 


THE  RAlAN  M(ERIS;  OB  STORAGE  RESERVOIR  OP  MIDDLE  EGTFT.      609 

across  the  Upper  Nile  near  Silsileh,  and  a  lake  formed  which  would 
give  a  considerable  additional  supply.  It  did  not  seem  to  occur  to  any 
one  that  if  the  whole  delta  was  in  former  times  under  cultivation,  this 
was  in  itself  a  conclusive  proof  that  a  storage  reservoir  had  once 
existed.  The  explicit  statements  of  Herodotus,  Strabo,  Diodorus, 
Mutianus,  Pliny,  and  Claudius  Ptolemy  showed  that  the  Nile  had  been 
regulated  by  utilising  a  depression  in  the  desert  corresponding  in  shape 
and  situation  to  the  Baian  basin.  It  had  been  converted  into  an 
artificial  lake  which  controlled  the  flow  of  the  Nile,  averted  its  excessive 
rise,  and  made  provision  against  the  annual  recurrence  of  drought. 
In  Lower  Egypt  there  are  three  seasons.  From  April  1st  to  the  end  of 
July  the  discharge  of  the  Nile  is  about  14,000  cubic  feet  per  second,  or 
an  average  of  about  fifty  million  cubic  metres  per  diem.  A  very  high 
Nile  discharges  387,000  cubic  feet  per  second,  or  an  average  of  over  a 
thousand  million  cubic  metres  per  diem.  Only  about  one-half  of  the 
delta,  or  about  2,625,000  acres,  is  under  cultivation.  About  820,000 
acres  more  are  ready  for  cultivation  and  about  1,670,000  acres  could  be 
reclaimed  if  a  uniform  supply  of  water  could  be  assured.  In  the 
province  of  Oharbieh  alone  the  area  of  land  capable  of  being  reclaimed 
is  reported  by  Mr.  William  WiUcocks  to  be  over  600,000  acres.  Ten 
shillings  an  acre  is  the  tax  paid  by  inferior  land  in  Egypt.  The 
revenue  from  better  land  exceeds  thirty  shillings.  In  a  despatch, 
dated  June  14th,  Sir  H.  Drummond  Wolflf  says : — "  The  cultivable  land 
of  Egypt  amounts  to  about  6,300,000  acres.  The  railways,  telegraphs, 
and  the  port  of  Alexandria  are  owned  by  the  bondholders.  Thus, 
from  a  country  consisting  of  6,800,000  acres  of  cultivable  land, 
and  with  a  population  of  about  6,800,000  including  foreigners,  an 
annual  sum  is  extracted  and  exported  of  5,170,060J."  The  total  revenue 
is  about  10,000,000r 

It  may  therefore  be  assumed  that  a  further  revenue  of  8,000,000L 
could  be  raised  if  2,390,000  acres  were  brought  under  irrigation. 

On  my  return  to  Egypt  in  December  1886,  the  Egyptian  Govern- 
ment requested  me  to  carry  out  further  surveys,  and  detailed  engineers 
to  work  under  my  direction.  Mr.  Stadler  ran  a  line  of  levels  from 
Mazurah,  on  the  Bahr  Jusuf,  for  a  distance  of  26  kilometres  to  the  west. 
This  line  was  continued  to  the  north-west  into  the  Wadi  Baian.  It  was 
checked  by  a  line  to  the  south-east  and  east,  back  to  the  valley  of  the 
Nile.  It  is  shown  on  the  accompanying  map.  Another  line  of  levels 
was  run  between  the  6hai  aq  and  the  Baian  depressions,  which  showed 
that  at  the  level  of  high  Nile  (ca.  30  metres)  these  basins  are  connected 
by  a  narrow  defile.  A  survey  was  also  made  of  the  desert  from  Birtebat 
to  Sedment  el-Gebel,  and  a  line  of  levels  run  across  a  narrow  part  of 
the  limestone  hills  separating  the  Oharaq  basin  from  the  valley  of  the 
Nile.  Another,  and  fifth,  independent  line  of  levels  was  carried  from 
the  west  end  of  the  Birket  el-Qenuiy  whose  surface  level  had  been 


610       THE  RAUN  MOERIS;  OR  STORAGE  RESERVOIR  OF  MIDDLE  EGYPT. 


preyionsly  established  at  —  40  metres,  or  70  metres  (about  225  feet)  below 
high  Nile.  Major  Snrtees  (of  the  Coldstream  Guards)  was  detailed  by 
the  War  Office,  at  the  request  of  Sir  C.  Scott-Moncrieff,  to  accompany 
this  expedition.  He  drafted  a  map  with  contours,  which  are  embodied 
on  the  map  which  accompanies  this  paper. 

In  view  of  these  fetcts,  Lieut.-Colonel  Western,  r.e.,  Director-General 
of  Works,  was  charged  with  the  examination  of  the  whole  project.  His 
elaborate  and  most  valuable  report  was  prepared  under  the  pressure  of 
work  attendant  upon  the  repairs  of  the  Barrage.  In  it  he  shows  that 
the  Baian  basin  might  be  utilised  with  immense  benefit  to  Lower 
Egypt.    His  report,  which  is  dated  May  12th,  is  as  follows : — 

The  Wadi  Halan  having  been  proved  to  be  of  a  reasonably  large  area,  with  a  bed 
level  well  below  that  of  the  Nile,  and  so  situated  as  to  lead  to  fair  hopes  of  the 
possibility  of  its  being  filled  with  Nile  water  at  a  cost  commensurate  with  results, 
the  project  was  ordered  to  be  considered. 

The  inspectors  of  irrigation  of  Lower  Egypt  were  asked  the  areas  of  waste  land 
they  could  in  the  future  profitably  irrigate,  the  increased  volumes  necessary  for  such 
extended  irrigation,  and  the  levels  at  which  the  Nile  must  be  maintained  at  the 
barrage  to  insure  existing  areas. 

The  answers  received  were  as  follows : — 

Area  cultivated 2,500,000  feddans 

Area  cultivable  [i.  e.  ready  for  cultivation,  without  water] . .       800,000        „ 
Area  reclaimable  [i.e.  marsh  or  other  land  requiring  treat- 
ment]        1,500,000        M 

Total  area      4,800,000       „ 

Note. — ^A  feddan  =  1*05  acre. 

And  as  the  minimttm  service  supply  of  40  millions  of  cubic  metres  per  day  in 
the  Nile  is  considered  as  barely  sufficient  for  the  irrigation  of  the  2,500,000  feddans 
of  cultivated  land,  the  volume  necessary  for  the  reclaimable  lands  would  amount  to 
some  25  millions,  or  a  volume  far  in  excess  of  that  likely  to  be  available. 

In  order  to  fill  any  reservoir  the  opportunity  of  the  high  level  of  the  river  in 
flood  time  must  be  availed  of. 

The  inspectors  report  that  'for  fair  crops  in  the  flood  season  the  river  should 
stand  at  the  barrage  at  the  foUowinj;  level : — 


September  1       16*3 

October  1 16*3 

November  1        15*0 


December  1        14*0 

January  1 13*5 

February  1 13*5 


While  from  the  records  of  the  past    11  years  it  is  found  that  the  gauges  to  be 
expected  range : — 


THE  Rl]iAN  M(ERIS;  OR  STORAGE  RESERVOIR  OF  MIDDLE  EGrPT.       611 


And  as  average  years  can  only  (even  in  an  optimist  view)  be  calculated  for  we 
find  that  the  river  level  is  only  just  sufficient  for  current  requirements.  (N.B. — It 
is  very  probable  that  the  inspectors  took  fair  average  years  as  giving  the  levels 
necessary,  but  it  is  recorded  by  Linant  Pasha  that  famines  in  Egypt  very  rarely 
occur  from  lack  of  water,  but  almost  invariably  from  an  excess.)  However,  to  pro- 
ceed on  the  figures  given  by  the  inspectors. 

It  has  been  assumed  hitherto  that  when  the  river  naturally  fell  to  a  gauge  of 
13,  the  barrage  gates  might  be  lowered  and  the  water  maintained  at  this  level.  On 
February  1st  then,  the  gauge  would  be  made  to  read  13  instead  of  the  12*7  recorded 
as  the  average,  and  from  this  date  forward  to  the  rising  of  the  river  in  July. 

As  these  gauges,  however,  do  not  really  show  the  result  required,  the  volumes  in 
the  river  for  every  tenth  day,  from  September  1st  to  February  1st,  have  been 
worked  out,  and  against  these  figures  placed  the  volumes  required  at  the  barrage  on 
the  same  dates. 

The  results  run  as  follows  in  millions  of  cubic  metres  per  day : — 


Number  of 

veArsin 

which 

ATAilabto. 

MAximnm 

Minimam 

A^Uble 

aTAilable 

available 

for  the 

inauyooe 

in  any 

nnmber  of 

year. 

one  year. 

yeaip. 

September  1      

5 

102 

18 

50 

10      

6 

113 

33 

71 

21      

7 

204 

83 

124 

October      1      

7 

293 

49 

164 

10      

7 

367 

18 

175 

21      

10 

468 

15 

209 

Noyember  1      

8 

431 

74 

189 

10      

10 

410 

13 

131 

21      

10 

27q 

14 

92 

December   1      

8 

159 

14 

58 

10      

11 

196 

28 

98 

21      

11 

253 

90 

159 

And  this  abstracted  again  gives  average  volume — 

For  11  years,  129  millions  per  day  for  20  days  on  December  11  to  31. 

„    10    „       138        „  „  50        „     November  10    ,. 

„  70        „      October  21     „ 


134 
140 
134 
127 


100 

„     September  21 

no 

10 

120 

1 

The  site  for  the  head  of  the  canal  of  supply  to  the  Wadi  Ratan  reservoir  would  be 
probably  at  or  near  Feshn,  and  the  river  levels  at  this  site  corresponding  to  the 
average  gauges  on  the  dates  worked  to 


September  1       29-1 

October  1 29-8 

November  1        28*8 

December  1        26*6 


January  1 25*6 

February  1 24*9 

Mayl 190 


at  Wasta. 

It  will  thus  be  seen,  that  to  ensure  the  filling  of  the  reservoir  every  year,  the 
time  available  runs  only  from  December  10th  to  31st,  or  with  a  river  gauge  at  26*6 
to  25*6,  but  that  if  a  filling  every  second  year  or  so  were  sufficient,  the  time  would 
be  from  September  Ist  to  December  31st,  or  with  gauges  varying  from  29*1  to  25*6. 

The  Wadi  Balan,  according  to  latest  plans,  may  be  taken  as  having  surfaces  and 
contents  as  follows  : — ^At  20  metres  above  the  Mediterranean,  surface  846,000,000 
metres,  contents  24,540  million  metres ;  at  25  metres,  surface  924,000,000  metres, 
contents  28,965  million  metres;  at  80  metreSy  soriace  1,001,000,000  metres, '.cou- 

No.  X,— OoT.  1887.]  2  X 


612       THE  RAIAX  MCERIS;  OB  STORAGE  RESERVOIR  OF  MIDDLE  EGTPT. 

tents  33,777  million  metres.  The  distance  along  the  line  of.  the  probable  canal 
from  Feshn  or  Bibeh  to  the  Wadi,  may  be  taken  at  55  kilome^rei,  and  allowing  a 
sbpe  of  l-25,000th  there  will  be  a  loss  of  level  of  about  2  metree — and  the  lake  can 
never  be  filled  to  a  higher  level  than  2*0  Nile  level—- and  as  there  will  be  approxi- 
mately a  similar  loss  of  level  in  oonvejring  the  water  back  to  the  Nile  at  abont 
Wasta,  the  difference  of  level  of  the  Nile  at  the  time  of  filling  and  at  the  time  of 
emptying  must  be  not  less  than  2  by  2*0,  pins  the  depth  of  water  in  the  reservoir 
to  be  utilised.  The  area  of  the  lake  at  25  metres  above  the  Mediterranean  being 
924  millions,  we  may  assume  the  area  at  24  metres  to  be  911  millions,  at  23  metres 
896  millions,  at  22  metres  880  millions,  and  again,  assuming  10  milKons  as 
required  per  day  for  100  days,  the  depth  necessary  will  be  1*1  metre,  or  from  24 
metres  to  22  metres.  The  project  is  therefore  feasible  as  regards  levels  and  volumes 
for  the  average  volumes  available  every  year. 

Allowance  must  be  made  for  evaporation  and  absorption,  and  this  may  furly  be 
taken  at  1*2  metre  in  depth  for  the  year,  or  at  25*2  metres  to  24  metres  above  the 
Mediterranean,  1103  millions.  Total  volume  then  to  be  passed  in,  1103  millions 
for  absorption  and  evaporation,  and  1000  millions  for  irrigation  —  total,  2103 
millions,  or  105  millions  for  20  days,  a  smaller  volume  than  that  found  available 
during  the  period  December  10th  to  31st,  and  if  there  is  water  sufficient  in  these  20 
days,  a  simple  inspection  of  the  table  of  volumes  available  will  show  that  there  is 
more  than  ample  water  at  any  other  period  or  for  any  less  number  of  years  than 
the  11  worked  to. 

It  may  be  noted  here  that  it  has  been  assumed  that  the  barrage  regulating  gates 
must  not  be  touched  during  flood ;  but  if  the  barrage  is  put  into  working  order 
there  is  no  reason  tvhy  the  river  should  not  be  regulated  the  whole  year  and  any 
desired  level  at  the  barrage  maintained,  and  in  this  case  the  Wadi  Raian  might  be 
filled  always  during  the  months  of  August,  September,  and  October  at  a  high  level 
and  at  a  reduced  cost,  due  to  the  smaller  section  of  canals  necessary. 

The  question  of  cost  can  at  present  only  be  worked  out  most  roughly,  and 
perhaps  it  would  be  as  well  to  let  this  stand  over  until  some  decision  has  been 
arrived  at  on  the  facts  collected  and  embodied  in  this  note. 

There  are  various  ways  in  whioli  the  Euan  reservoir  migbt  receive 
an  additional  supply  of  water,  so  as  to  obviate  the  danger  of  even  a 
single  short  year,  and  to  reduce  the  loss  of  head  in  the  canal  of  supply 
and  outflow.  The  basins  of  Middle  Egypt  are  now  emptied  into  the 
Nile.  They  might  be  allowed  to  flow  westward  into  the  new  lake. 
The  calculated  loss  of  two  metres  might  thus  be  materially  reduced. 
A  thousand  millions  of  cubic  metres  might  be  passed  through  the 
Bahr  Jusuf  from  Asiut,  and  this  would  supplement  the  supply  received 
direct  from  the  Nile  at  Feshn. 

In  short,  there  is  no  doubt  that  inasmuch  as  high  Nile  discharges 
into  the  Mediterranean  an  enormous  quantity  of  water,  it  is  merely  a 
matter  of  detail  to  determine  how  it  can  be  most  advantageously 
diverted  into  the  basin  which  nature  has  placed  at  the  side  of  the  river, 
and  at  what  height  it  must  be  stored  so  as  to  yield  a  snfficient  and 
regular  supply  in  the  Delta. 

The  observations  of  Colonel  Ardagh,  c.b.,  b.e.,  will  be  sufficient  to 
show  how  far  all  objectionSy  such  as  evaporation,  leakage,  deposit, 
infiltration,  impregnation,  and  loss  of  head  have  been  snffidenily 
considered. 


TH£  DESEET  FROM  DAHSHUR  TO  MH  RAIAK. 


618 


It  k  estimated  tliat  loss  tkaQ  1,000,0001,  would  eufficQ  for  the  work^. 
They  would  consist  of  a  canal  across  the  Nile  valley  near  Feshn,  the 
improvement  of  the  Babr  Jusiif,  an  embankment  and  basins  in  the  Nile 
valley,  a  cut  or  tunnel  of  less  than  three  miles  between  the  Nile  valloy 
and  the  Gharaq  basin,  an  embankment  of  twenty  miles  to  guide  the 
water  into  the  Eaian  Basin,  with  incidental  expenses  for  gates,  bridges, 
tfec.  It  is,  however,  obvions  that  if  the  revenue  would  amount  at  the 
end  of  a  few  years  to  three  millions  sterling,  while  the  cost  of  mainten- 
ance is  inconsiderable,  the  question  of  the  exact  outlay  is  a  minor 
consideration. 

The  following  papers  relating  to  the  same  subject  were  also  read 
in  the  Geograjjhical  Section  at  Maneht?ster ; — 

The  Feasibility  of  the  Eaian  project.  By  Colonel  Ardagh,  c.b-,  k.e.— 
Having  maintained  a  constant  interest  in  tlie  iDTestt^tions  of  Mr.  Cope  TVhitehoii8« 
during  the  five  years  I  have  i>as8ed  in  Egypt,  and  having  actuolLy  accompanied  kim 
into  the  Raitm  basin,  1  conceive  that  it  will  be  satisfactory  to  the  Britiah  Aseociation 
to  reeeive  the  evidence  of  an  impartial  observer  upon  this  question,  Mr.  Cop 
Whitehouse  merits  the  thanks  alike  of  antiquarintis,  as  of  modern  engineers,  for  his 
researches  relative  to  Lake  Mcpris.  I  do  not  intend  to  say  a  word  as  to  the  identity 
of  the  RaTan  or  Mullah  basins  with  Lake  M<rris,  but  only  wish  to  call  attention 
to  the  fact  t!iat  Mr.  Cope  Whitehouse  has  discovered  a  bastn  or  depression  which  is  un- 
deniably caimble  of  being  turned  into  u  storage  reservoir,  fulfllling  all  the  purposes  of 
the  ancient  Lake  Mo-'fis,  at  a  comparatively  moderate  cost ;  and  that  the  financial 
reault  to  Egypt  of  the  construction  of  sucli  a  storage  reservoir  capable  of  supplementing 
the  insufficieiit  quantity  of  water  furnished  by  the  Nile  during  the  jieriod  of  low 
Nile,  and  of  thus  enabling  larger  tracts  of  land  to  be  kept  in  cultivation,  would 
represent  a  very  large  profit  on  the  capital  invested,  and  a  permanent  increase  in  the 
proluce  of  the  country* 

There  are  no  engineering  difficulties  in  the  way.  The  only  obstacle  is  the 
financial  one.  It  is  an  eoteririse  which  ought  to  be  carried  out  by  the  State,  and 
should  not  be  conceded  to  private  individuals.  There  is,  however,  so  much  to  be  done 
in  connection  ^ith  the  improvement  of  irrigation  in  Egypt,  that  the  time  and  energy 
of  Sir  C.  Scott-Moncrieff  and  his  staflf  are  already  fully  employed,  and  the  fun^is 
are  inadequate  for  this  and  many  other  excellent  projects.  For  my  own  part,  1  fed 
convinced  that  sooner  or  later  a  storage  reservoir  most  be  made ;  and  the  j>eople  of 
Egypt  should  be  moat  grateful  to  Mr.  Cope  Whitehouse  for  his  eflbrts  to  arouse 
public  intcrtfst  in  a  scheme  of  such  value  to  their  prosperity. 

The  Desert  from  Bahshur  to  Ain  Kaian.    By  Captain  rnvyrnj,  Subtee8, 
Coliistream  Guards^  late  Major  in  the  Egyptian  Army. — II 
at  the  request  of  Sir  CoUn  fcscott-Moncrieff,  k.o.m^q.,  o.i 
Egyptian  army,  to  accomf^any  Mr.  Cope  Whitehouse  aod  i 
the  Fayoum  and  Dahshour  and  to  make  a  top 
desert  to  the  north-weat  and  south-west  of  the 
the  Wadi  Ealan,  I  followed  the  routes  shown  n 
Office,  and  embodied  m  a  map  preimred  by  Mr.  ^ 
of  Public  Works. 

Apart  from  the  contour  lines  of  the  Batan  ttii; 
oetiled. 

L  There  is  no  continuation  of  the  Payonm  Ui&ii/. 
Nile,  towards  the  vfest. 


614 


THE  BAHR  YUSDP. 


2*  The  Fayoum  and  Ralau  basins  are  sepamted^to  the  south-west  of  the  Qaar 
Qenin^for  a  bread tl 4  of  several  miles  by  a  plateau  of  limestone. 
3»  Tbe  Ilalaii  bafia  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  steep  cliffs. 

The  Bahr  Yufluft  roag^hly  describing  its  present  state  and  uses*— 
By  Captain  H.  H,  Beow>\  r.e,,  Inspector  of  Irrij^ation,  Ith  Circle,  Egypt.^ — The  Bahr 
Ym^uf  appears  origmally  to  iiave  been  a  drainage  channel  from  Derut  to  KoBhesha, 
formed  njiturally  duriag  the  subsidence  of  the  annual  overflow  of  the  Xile,  by  the  flood 
water  findinoj  its  way  from  Bouth  to  north  along  the  lowest  lying  parts  of  the  flooded 
eountryj  which  parta  run  aloDg  the  edge  of  the  desert  at  a  greater  or  less  diatanoe 
from  it,  as  the  channel  winds  in  its  course*  It  ia  pmbable  that  with  the  object  of 
giving  a  more  early  and  plentiful  supply  to  the  basins  along  the  course  of  thia 
channel,  or  perhaps  with  the  special  view  of  improving  the  wat^r  supply  to  the 
Fayum,  an  artificial  channel  was  cut  to  connect  this  drainage  channel  with  the  Nile, 
The  first  artificial  cut  appears  to  have  taken  off  from  the  Nile  about  a  mile 
above  Derut,  chosen  probably  because  the  Nile  and  the  natural  drains  go  channel 
approached  nearest  to  each  other  at  Derut.  Suhsequeutly  this  connection  was  sup- 
pressed on  the  construction  of  a  larger  channel  with  its  take-off  from  the  Nile  jnst 
below  Munf.tliit,  a  town  about  25  miles  above  Derat.  This  channel  also  joined  the 
natural  drainage  channel  a  little  north  of  Derut.  The  upper  part  of  it  atill  exists  as 
a  disused  channel,  and  is  known  as  the  old  Bahr  Yuanf,  or  the  Manfalutiyah.  This 
channel  dso  has  been  sujwrseded  by  the  present  Ibrahimiyah  Canal,  which  baa  its 
bead  at  AsyCit,  38  miles  above  DerClt.  The  portion  of  the  Manfaliitlyah  (old  Bahr 
.  Yusuf)  from  Beni  Qora  to  Derut  ^vas  taken  up  and  enlarged  to  form  part  of  the 
kj^resent  Ibrahimiyah  Canal*  The  Bahr  Yuauf  baa  thus  now  a  connection  with  the 
liJile  BuflSciently  far  up  to  ensure  a  supply  of  water  to  the  Fayilm  all  the  year  round- 
Tbe  upper  portion  of  the  Ibrahimiyah  requires  to  be  ktpt  clear  by  annual  dredging 
operations,  which,  previous  to  1884,  ooat  not  less  than  40,000/.  annually,,  but  now 
cost  about  20,000/.,  with  a  prospect  of  a  still  further  reduction  without  loss  of  dis- 
charge. The  former  superfieded  h^ds  were  probably  cleared  annually  by  hand 
labour  (unpaid),  during  which  time,  at  any  rate,  there  must  have  been  a  break  in  th« 
water  supply  of  the  Fay  dm. 

According  to  present  nomenclature,  the  Bahr  Yusuf  takes  ofl*  from  the  Ibrahimiyah 
Canal  at  Derut,  ita  head  consisting  of  a  regulator  of  five  openings  of  3'0  metres  width 
each y  and  a  lock  of  8*5  metres  width,  which  latter  ia  throun  wide  open  in  flood 
time,  as  the  water-way  of  the  regulator  is  insufficient  without  the  lock  to  pass  as 
niQch  as  is  required  for  the  filling  of  the  basins.  At  high  flood  there  is  8  metres 
depth  of  water  on  the  floor  of  this  head. 

The  canal-heads,  basin*fecders,  and  escapes,  fed  at  Derat  by  the  Ibrahimiyah 
Canal,  are  the  following  i-^ 


Kime. 


Um, 


OpcuSoga. 


Bemarkii, 


Dayiwi  -, 

Bahr  Yustif 

Derutlyah 

Ibrahimlyali , .  Y 
^contiDnation)/ 
gahellyaU 

Escape  .* 


BubId  fectilcr 

laundation  of  bus  ins  I 
and  irrigation  ofj 
Fayiim ) 

Irrigation  and  assists i 
inundation      . .      . .  J 


for  surplus  arriving  al\ 
Deriit      J 


2  of  30  m.       width 

5  of  3-0 m. 

Lock  of  80  m.  „ 

3  of  3  0  m. 

(7  of  3*0  ni.  „ 

\Lockof8*5m*  „ 

2  of  3-0  m.  „ 

5  of  3-0  m.  ., 

Lock  of  8*5  m.  „ 


For  flood  time  only. 
I  Flows  through  yetir. 


For  use  from  about 
15th  July  to  I5th 
March. 


THE  BAHR  YUSUP.  616 

The  Bahr  Tusuf,  from  a  poiDt  a  little  to  the  north  of  Derat  to  el-LahtlD,  at  its 
entrance  to  the  Fayam,  winds  about  to  such  an  extent  as  to  make  it  appear  unlikely 
that  it  was  ever  an  artificially  made  channel,  though  it  is  of  course  admitted  that 
flowing  water  will  make  a  straight  channel  siouoos  with  sufficient  time  allowed. 
The  cross  section  and  supply  of  the  Bahr  Yusuf  are  not  given  here  for  want  of 
references.  I^  however,  my  memory  can  be  trusted,  the  discharges  are  about  as 
follows  :* — 

Minimum  in  June 1  million  cubic  metres  per  24  hours. 

l£aximum  of  channel  in  August  and  September     27  ^  >•  n 

Itfaximum  of  valley  of  Bahr  Yusuf,  west  of  right  i 

longitudinal  bank,  during  emptying  of  basins  I  72  „  „  „ 

in  October ) 

The  maximum  discharge  of  the  Ibrahimlyah  Canal  at  Asyat  is  65  million  cubic 
metres  per  twenty-four  hours.  The  first  regulating  work  on  it  is  at  DerQt,  38  miles 
from  its  mouth,  so  that  the  flood  enters  freely  at  Asytlt,  and  has  to  be  disposed  of, 
sometimes  with  much  difficulty,  on  its  arrival  at  Dertlt. 

During  the  low  Nile  season  the  minimum  discharge  of  the  Canal  Ibrahimlyah 
above  DerQt  may  be  taken  at  4  millions  of  cubic  metres  per  twenty-four  hours.  Of 
this  the  Ibrahimlyah  (below  DerQt),  Saheliyah,  and  DerQtlyah  together  take 
3  millions,  leaving  1  million  for  the  Bahr  Yusuf  to  carry  to  the  FayQm.  As  the 
Nile  rises,  the  head  of  the  Bahr  Yusuf  is  gradually  opened  further,  until  at  last,  on 
or  about  the  15th  August,  the  lock  is  opened,  and  the  channel  allowed  to  run  as  full 
as  possible  without  doing  injury.  A  longitudinal  embankment  runs  along  the  east 
bank  of  the  Bahr  Yusuf,  forming  the  west  bank  of  the  main  basin  chain.  The  lands 
on  the  west  of  the  Bahr  Yusuf  are,  as  a  rule,  simply  flooded  by  the  flnal  overflow, 
assisted  by  a  few  cross  banks  to  hold  up  the  water  to  some  extent,  but  these  banks 
are  merely  the  rudiments  of  degraded  basins,  or  the  embryos  of  basins  in  an 
undeveloped  state. 

The  basins  on  the  east  of  the  Bahr  Yusuf  are  fed  through  openings  in  the  south- 
west comers  of  the  basins,  and  the  inundation  of  each  basin  is  finally  completed  by 
passing  on  the  water  from  the  basin  next  to  it  on  the  south.  The  discharge  (at  the 
end  of  October)  is  effected  by  cuts  in  the  cross  banks  dividing  ba^ns,  or  in  the 
longitudinal  bank  along  the  Bahr  Yusuf  at  the  n<Mrth-west  comers  of  the  basins. 

As  the  water  thus  supplied  to  the  basins  loses  much  of  its  suspended  matter 
before  it  reaches  the  more  northerly  basins,  new  feeders,  either  from  the  Nile  direct 
or  from  the  Ibrahimlyah,  crossing  the  Sefi  area,t  have  been  or  are  being  made,  or  are 
as  yet  in  the  state  of  proposed  projects.  As  these  are  carried  on  to  completion  less 
water  will  be  required  from  the  Bahr  Yusuf,  and  therefore  its  discharge  during  flood 
time  can  be  utilised  to  a  greater  extent  for  other  objects  which  may  be  decided  to 
be  desirable.  The  cuts  to  feed  and  discharge  basins  will,  as  funds  allow,  be  replaced 
by  regulators.  Much  has  already  been  accomplished  in  the  study  of  what  is  required 
and  in  the  collection  of  useful  information  to  guide  to  practical  and  economical 
projects  for  the  proper  control  of  the  basin  inundation.  These  works  also,  when 
completed,  will  enable  a  less  body  of  water  to  do  the  same  work  as  is  done  under 
present  arrangements.  The  Bahr  Yusuf  enters  the  Faydm  at  el-LahfLn,  where  there 
are  means  of  regulation,  and  escapes  its  surplus  water  from  above  Lahiln  into  the 


*  These  figures  should  not  be  made  use  of  without  being  checked  by  records 
available  in  Egypt. 

t  Sefi  area  is  the  area  under  all*year-round  irrigation,  as  distinguished  from  the 
basins,  which  are  inundated  onoe  a  year  and  grow  one  crop  only. 


&16 


THE  BAHB  TUSUF. 


Kofihesha  Basin,  whicli  has  an  area  of  about  40,000  acres,  and  oontaios  when  full  above 
200  million  cubic  metres.  This  basin,  when  full,  is  relieved  by  making  a  cut  in  a. 
bank  which  has  to  be  annually  constructed,  and  which  should  be  replaced  by  a  large 
masonry  escape,  to  give  proper  control  over  th6  water.  During  the  emptying  of  the 
basins,  the  Bahr  Yusuf  is  the  escape  channel  for  the  water  of  all  the  basins  in 
the  Asyilt  and  Minieh  Provinces  from  Asyut  northwards :  b^  it  the  water  is  carried 
into  the  Koshesha  Basin,  from  which  it  is  finally  discharged  back  into  the  Nile. 
Next  to  the  irrigation  of  the  FaytLm  this  is  its  most  important  function,  and 
probably  its  original  use.  Running  a^  it  does  throngh  the  lowtat  lying  laud,  and 
considered  with  reference  to  the  provinces  of  Asyat,  Minieh,  and  Beni-Suef,  through 


SKETCH  MAP  EXPLANATOBT  OF  THE  SYSTEM  OF  WOBEIKG  THE  BA6IKS. 

which  it  passes,  it  is  better  situated  for  a  drainage  channel  than  for  a  canal-  of 
irrigation.  It  is  only  the  peculiarity  of  the  levels  of  the  Fayum  that  has  rendered 
the  Bahr  Yusuf  a  suitable  channel  for  carrying  the  water  supply  of  that  province, 
but  even  for  that  purpose  it  cannot  be  said  to  work  economically,  by  reason  of  the 
increased  evaporation  that  must  take  place  in  consequence  of  its  sinuous  course, 
unsuitable  section,  and  low  velocity.  A  straight  line  from  Deriit  to  el-Lahdn  is, 
roughly,  150  miles  ;  the  length  of  the  Buhr  Yusuf  channel  between  the  same  places 
is,  actually,  270  miles. 

The  discbarge  which,  at  different  seasons,  is  returned  into  the  Nile  by  the  esca]>e 
at  Deriit,  could  be  passed  down  the  Bahr  Yusuf,  if  required,  provided  that  canal 
were  not  already  running  full :  that  is,  the  discharge  of  the  Bahr  Yusuf  could  be 
increased  beyond  that  which  it  carries  under  present  circumstanoes,  from  15th  July 


THE  CAUCASUS.  617 

to  16th  Augiuty  and  from  Ut  KoTember  to  about  the  15th  March,  the  increase  in 
the  early  part  of  this  latter  period  being  considerable,  and  decreasing  to  nothing  on 
the  15th  March.  If  I  remember  rightly,  the  escape  at  DerUt  is  discharging  about 
20  millions  in  November,  which  would  therefore  be  the  amount  by  which  it  would 
be  possible  to  increase  the  Bahr  Yusuf  at  the  commencement  of  the  named  period, 
were  there  means  of  utilising  the  water,  and  also  arrangements  for  draining  the 
basins  without  the  necessity  for  lowering  the  water-level  in  the  Bahr  Yusuf. 

I  r^ret  that  I  have  no  papers  with  me  giving  for  the  dififerent  months  of  the 
year  the  water-levels  which  can  be  maintained  at  DerQt  without  affecting  the  dis- 
charge of  the  Ibrahimlyah  above  Derflt,  as  these  levels,  no  doubt,  would  be  of 
interest  in  the  consideration  of  the  subject,  in  connection  with  which  Mr.  Cope 
Whitehouse  has  asked  me  to  write  this  note. 


The  Cauca9U8. 

Mb.  Douqlas  Fbeshfield  writes : — I  have  jnst  retumed  from  my  seoond 
journey  in  the  Caucasus.  It  was  undertaken  at  the  invitation  of 
M.  de  Deohy  of  Budapesth,  an  Honorary  Corresponding  Fellow  of  the 
Boyal  Gleographical  Society,  who  had  visited  the  Caucasus  in  the  three 
previous  years,  and  on  his  first  journey  had  ascended  Elbruz  and  Adai 
Choqh.  He  was  good  enough  to  provide  tents,  various  provisions, 
instruments,  &o.,  for  the  joint  expedition,  besides  being  able  by  his 
knowledge  of  Bussian  to  dispense  with  an  interpreter.  I  had  also  with 
me  my  old  oompanion  and  guide  Fran9oi8  Devouassoud  of  Chamonix, 
with  his  brother  and  nephew. 

Starting  from  Naltshik,  on  the  northern  side  of  the  chain,  on 
July  22nd,  we  crossed  from  Urusbieh  by  a  seldom-used  glacier  pass  of 
over  12,600  feet,  the  Adyr-su,  to  Mestia  in  Suanetia.  From  Betsho  in 
that  valley,  I  and  two  of  the  guides  ascended  a  spur  of  Ushba  (about 
12,600  feet)  and  closely  examined  the  mighty  twin  towers  of  that  glorious 
mountain,  which  rose  still  some  4000  feet  above  us  in  huge  cliffs  hissing 
with  avalanches.  On  August  6th,  I,  with  the  three  guides,  climbed  the 
great  snow  pyramid  conspicuous  from  the  whole  of  Suanetia,  and 
known  to  the  natives  and  Bussians  as  Tetnuld.  The  aseeni  cost  us 
thirteen  hours'  walking  from  a  bivouac  of  9000  feet.  Though  the  cold 
was  not  severe,  and  no  one  else  suffered,  one  of  the  guides,  owing  to  an 
ill-fitting  boot,  was  severely  frostbitten.  The  views,  particularly  at 
sunrise  and  from  the  top,  were  clear  and  glorious.  The  position  of 
Tetnuld,  the  only  one  of  the  great  peaks  standing  out  on  a  short 
southern  spur  from  the  Caucasian  watershed,  is  particularly  favourable. 

As  we  rose,  the  vast  white  curves  of  Elbruz  lifted  themselves  Higher 
and  higher  above  the  rock-peaks  of  the  main  chain.  So,  seen  from  a 
distance,  the  dome  of  Bruneleschi  dominates  the  Campanili  of  Florence, 
or  St.  Paul's  the  City  spires.  At  our  feet  lay  the  lowlands  of  Mingrelia 
and  the  hollow  of  the  Black  Sea,  and  along  the  southern  horizon 


618 


THE  CAUCAStrS. 


Btretcbed  the  mountaiua  of  Armenia  and  Asia  Minori  still  streaked 
with  gnow.  A  single  obaervation  gave  the  height  as  16,700  feet.  The 
peak  to  the  north,  climbed  last  year  by  Mr.  Dent  and  Mi*.  Donkin,  the 
President  and  Secretary  of  the  Alpine  Club,  and  estimated  by  them  at 
10,550,  appeared  to  me  at  the  time  from  100  to  150  feet  lower  than 
Tetnnld.  Four  higher  summits  were  close  at  hand,  Schkara  and  Djanga« 
on  the  watershed  (their  heights  I  provisionally  conjecture  at  17,200  and 
16,900  feet),  and  the  Koshtantau  17,096  and  Dychtau  16,925  feet  of  the 
Russian  maps,  on  a  northern  spnr. 

On  the  following  day,  I  caught  up  M.  de  D^chy,  and  oroeaed  with 
him  a  long  disused  pass  (13,600  feet)  over  the  Zanner  glacier  to  the 
valley  of  the  Urban*  The  amount  of  snow  and  ice  on  these  passes 
exceeds  that  on  any  pass  over  the  watershed  of  the  Alps.  We  were  in 
both  passages  of  the  chain  from  ennrise  to  sunset  on  the  glaciers.  The 
Aletsch  Glacier  alone  cau  compare  with  these  vast  icefields,  but  the 
peaks  which  rise  above  it  are  but  snow*hum mocks  by  the  side  of  the 
ciiBs  and  pinnacles  of  the  central  group  of  the  Caucasus. 

From  Bezingi  M.  de  Ddchy  and  1  visited  together  the  glaciers  north 
of  Dychtau ;  and  I  with  F.  Devouassoud  and  his  nephew  ascended  a 
peak  north  of  the  Mishirgi  glacier  and  over  15,200  feet  in  height, 
whence  we  had  a  noble,  and  from  a  topogTapher*s  point  of  view  most 
inBtmctive  panorama  of  the  northern  flank  of  the  chaiD« 

From  Naltahik,  on  August  14th,  M.  de  Dechy  returned  to  Odessa, 
while  1  went  round  to  Tiflis  and  Kutaie,  in  order  to  send  home  the 
disabled  guide,  and  to  procure  an  ititerpreter,  which  I  was  fortunate  in 
doing  at  the  latter  place.  1  then  returned  in  cloudless  weather  to 
Suanetia  by  the  well-known  Latpari  Pass,  closely  examined  the  southern 
glaciers  of  the  great  central  group,  and  crossed  through  the  forests  and 
giant  flowers  of  the  Zones  Skali  to  Gcbi,  ascending  thence  the  panor&mio 
peak  of  Schoda,  11,128  feet.  This  part  of  the  countiy  I  had  seen  only 
in  bad  weather  in  1868.  The  glacier  and  forest  sconeiy  is  in  many 
parts  superb.  It  would  be  difficult  to  imagine  a  more  sublime  and 
fantastic  landscape  than  that  of  Usfakui,  the  highest  community  in 
Suanetia,  when  bebiDd  its  flfty  towers  and  two  black  castles  the  frozen 
ridge  of  Schkara  rises  10,000  feet  overhead  against  an  unclouded  sky. 
From  the  valley  of  the  Scena,  or  western  source  of  the  Zenes  Skali,  the 
five  crests  of  the  same  great  mountain  recall  one  of  the  noblest  views  iu 
the  Alps,  Monte  Eosa  from  Yal  Anzasca,  and  they  are  seen  over  virgin 
forests  and  flelds  of  flowers  which  are  high  enough  to  conceal  a  laden 
horse. 

The  amount  of  snow  lying  everywhere  this  year  on  the  glaciers  and 
rock-peaks  was  altogether  abnormal.  The  oldest  inhabitant  professed 
never  to  have  seen  tbe  like,  and  more  tnistwortby  informants,  such  as 
Dr.  von  Kadde  and  Mr.  Peacock,  H.B.M.*s  Vice-Consul  at  Batoum, 
assured  me  that  the  winter  had  lasted  two  months  longer  than  usual. 


: 


THE  CAUCASUS.  619 

This  extraordinary  snowfall,  tlie  unlucky  accident  to  my  guide,  and  the 
want  of  an  equally  enthusiastic  climbing  companion,  interfered  to  some 
extent  with  my  mountaineering  projects.  I  believe  all  the  great  peaks 
to  be  in  ordinary  seasons  accessible,  though  some  of  them  will  probably 
prove  very  difficult,  and  require  all  the  faculties  of  experienced  moun- 
taineers for  their  conquest. 

M.  de  Dfchy,  during  the  three  weeks  we  were  together  in  the 
mountains,  added  to  his  already  large  collection  some  eighty  plates  of 
the  scenery  and  people,  and  some  measurements  of  heights.  I  have 
amassed  a  quantity  of  rough  sketches  and  topographical  notes,  which 
will  enable  me  to  sketch  with  approximate  accuracy  the  dimensions 
and  relations  of  the  glaciers  and  the  principal  peaks  of  the  great  central 
group  of  the  Caucasus,  which  contains  at  least  six  summits  higher  than 
Kazbek,  and  second  only  to  Elbruz.  Of  four  of  these  the^Bussian  Staff 
have  as  yet,  unfortimately,  published  no  measurements.  The  Eoshtantau 
of  my  own  writings,  and  of  Mr.  Grove,  proves  to  be  the  Schkara  of  the 
Bussian  map,  and  is  probably  the  second  peak  in  the  whole  chain.  My 
*'  Unknown  Peak,"  Mr.  Dent's  Guluku,  is  the  Eoshtantau  of  the  Bussian 
Staff.  The  glaciers  of  the  central  group  on  both  sides  of  the  chain  are 
generally  beginning  to  advance  after  a  period  of  retreat,  resembling  in 
this  those  of  the  Western  Alps. 

Farther  details  I  must  reserve  for  a  future  occasion.  But  I  wish  to 
lose  no  time  in  correcting  a  paragraph  which  has  appeared  in  the  press 
during  my  absence  to  the  effect  that  owing  to  a  robbery  committed  on 
our  camp  in  Suanetia,  and  the  loss  or  breakage  of  our  baggage  and 
scientific  instruments,  my  companion  and  I  were  obliged  to  abandon  an 
intended  visit  to  Daghestan. 

It  is  perfectly  true  that,  under  cover  of  a  dark  and  wet  night,  a 
thief  from  the  village  of  Adish  pilfered  a  revolver,  some  Steigeisen^  half 
a  sheep,  and  a  little  portmanteau  containing  M.  de  Dtehy's  change  of 
clothes.  The  loss  of  his  mountain  wardrobe  was,  of  course,  an  incon- 
venience to  my  companion.  But  I  was  happily  able  to  supply  his  most 
urgent  needs,  at  Naltshik  we  had  a  reserve  of  baggage,  and  Tiflia 
is  a  city  well  provided  with  shops.  The  loss  did  not,  in  £eu^  in  any 
way  affect  our  plans,  and  we  were  on  the  point  of  starting  for  the 
Eastern  Caucasus  when  M.  de  D^hy,  as  he  informed  me,  received 
news  from  home  which  made  his  return  convenient.  I  went  on  to  the 
southern  side  of  the  Central  Caucasus  rather  than  to  Basardjusi,  on  the 
advice  of  Dr.  von  Badde,  whom  I  was  fortunate  enough  to  find  at  Tiflis, 
and  who  with  his  usual  kindness  placed  his  unrivalled  knowledge  of  the 
Caucasus  unreservedly  at  my  disposal 

The  sequel  to  our  "  robbery  " — ^which  M.  de  D6chy  left  the  country 
too  soon  to  learn — must  be  shortly  told.  On  receiving  a  report  of  our 
loss,  the  Priestav  (magistrate)  resident  at  Betsho  in  Suanetia,  came  up 
the  valley  with  the  small  force  of  Cossacks  at  his  disposal  and  summoned 


020 


THE  CADCAStlS. 


T^efore  him  tlie  fifteen  heads  of  families  of  the  offending  village.  They 
were  ordered  to  reniam  as  hostages  until  the  goods  were  returned.  Ab  it 
waa  the  height  of  the  haymaking  season  this  measure  was  exceedingly 
well-jndgetl ;  and  in  the  end  it  proved  effectual.  The  stolen  goo<3s,  or  the 
greater  part  of  them,  have  been  recovered. 

I  have  given  some  details  as  to  this  petty  and  speedily  punished 
theft,  because  the  eraggerated  report  first  circulated  is  likely  to  have,  and 
has  even  already  had,  a  very  miachievouB  effect  io  spreading  completely 
faL^e  impressions  as  to  the  difficulty  or  even  danger  of  travel  in  the 
Central  Cancaaiifl,  It  would  be  a  misfortune  if  intelligent  tntvellors  were 
frightened  off  from  a  country  which  in  my  opinion  is  now  ripe  for  the 
better  sort  of  long  vacation  tourists  and  Alpine  Clubmen,  Two  parties 
of  foreign  travellers,  each  with  an  Alpine  guide,  were  in  Suanetia  when 
I  left  it.  I  wandered  about  for  live  weeks  on  both  sides  of  the  central 
chain,  unarmed  and  often  alone  and  by  night»  in  perfect  security,  meeting 
with  nothing  but  pleasant  greetings,  and  sometimes  hearty  handshaker 
from  old  acquaintances  of  nineteen  years  ago.  I  found  little  difficulty, 
with  or  without  government  papers,  in  obtaining  provisions,  horses,  or 
porters.  Delay  of  course  there  is,  as  in  all  countries  where  time  is  no 
object,  and  talk  takes  the  place  of  newapai>er-reading  as  a  daily  occu- 
pation* But  once  on  the  road,  the  natives  are,  as  a  rule,  good  travellers. 
Adish,  the  scene  of  our  solitary  misadventure,  is  a  remote  hamlet,  in 
former  days  notorious  for  the  vdldness  of  its  people,  and  exactly  the 
spot  where  a  last  outbreak  of  old  habits  was  to  be  looked  for. 

Of  course,  the  above  remarks  apply  only  to  the  district  I  have  lately 
visited,  the  moat  interesting  to  mountaineers.  I  am  not  generalising  as 
to  the  whole  Caucasus,  which  as  a  political  term  extends  with  each 
BuBsian  annexation,  and  includes  frontier  districts  which  may  become 
insecure  from  time  to  time* 

I  may  add  that  I  and  the  Alpine  guides  passed  twice  through  the 
southern  valleys  in  the  latter  half  of  August,  and  in  exceptional  heat, 
without  suffering  from  fever  or  any  sort  of  indisposition,  and  that  there 
appears  to  be  now  little  risk  in  embarking  or  lauding  at  Batoum,  the 
climate  of  which  has  been  much  improved  by  the  extension  of  the  town 
and  the  construction  of  large  docks. 

The  completion  of  a  railway  to  INovorossisk,  which  as  a  port  accessible 
at  all  seasons  is  expected  to  supersede  Taganrog,  will  open  next  year  a 
new  route  to  the  Caucasus,  which  can  already  be  reached  from  England 
in  from  a  week  to  ten  days  viii  Kieff,  Charkoff,  Kostoff;  Odessa  and 
Batoum ;  or  the  Orient  Express  and  the  southern  shores  of  the  Black 
Sea. 


(    fl21    ) 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 

Ascent  of  the  Owen  Stanley  Bange,  New  Guinea.— Mr.  C.  H.  Hail- 
mann  informs  us,  by  letter  from  Port  Moresby,  that  he  and  Mr.  G.  Hunter 
succeeded  last  July  in  reaching  the  summit  of  the  main  range  of  British 
Now  Guinea.  They  appear  not  to  have  reached  the  highest  elevations, 
but  by  a  judicious  choice  of  route,  along  the  valleys  of  the  Kemp  Welsh 
and  Musgrave  rivers,  ascended  to  the  saddle  between  Mounts  Obree  and 
Brown,  and  crossed  to  the  eastern  or  inland  slopes  of  the  range.  They 
started  with  twenty-seven  friendly  natives,  but  had  some  difficulty,  in 
commencing  the  ascent,  with  the  hostile  tribe  who  guard  the  great  moun- 
tain Paramagoro,  which  they  believe  to  be  the  abode  of  the  spirits  of  the 
departed.  Their  hostility  was  eventually  overcome  by  peaceable  mea- 
sures, and  upwards  of  200  of  them  followed  the  expedition  in  the  ascent, 
conciliated  by  the  daily  supply  of  meat  of  wild  pigs  which  the  travellers 
obtained  by  means  of  their  rifles,  though  the  chief  cause  of  the  success 
is  attributed  to  the  great  experience  of  Mr.  Hunter,  who  had  for  a  long 
time  prepared  for  the  expedition  by  making  friends  with  the  tribes, 
several  of  whose  languages  he  speaks  fluently.  The  journey  from  Bigo, 
a  village  near  the  coast  at  Eapatapa,  and  back,  occupied  only  eleven 
days,  and  it  rained  in  torrents  nearly  all  the  time  they  were  on  the 
mountains.  The  flora  is  described  as  magnificent  in  the  extreme, 
including  palms  of  many  species,  tree-ferns,  marantas,  strelitzias,  orchids, 
and  an  endless  variety  of  tropical  flowering  plants ;  east  of  the  range 
the  country  is  more  open  and  richly  grassed. 

Captain  Paiva  de  Andrada  in  Manica. — ^From  a  private  letter  of 
Captain  Paiva  de  Andrada  we  learn  that  this  enterprising  traveller  has 
recently  performed  several  journeys  in  the  countries  to  the  south  of 
the  Zambezi.  Captain  de  Andrada  does  not  aspire  to  rank  as  an 
"  explorer*' ;  but  he  has  nevertheless  visited  many  districts  of  which  wo 
know  next  to  nothing,  and  lays  down  his  routes  upon  a  map  drawn  on 
a  scale  of  1 :  46,000.  He  points  out  that  the  small  sketch  in  the  '  Pro- 
ceedings '  (1886,  p.  508)  is  in  many  respects  superior  to  the  large  map 
by  Moraes  Pinto  published  in  the  *  Journal  of  the  Manchester  Geo- 
graphical Society.*  Both  have  been  superseded  by  the  'Carta  do 
Districto  de  Manica '  by  A.  A.  d'Oliveira  of  the  *  Commissfto  de  Carto- 
graphia,'  but  this  recent  map,  too,  already  needs  rectifications  in  several 
respects.  When  Gungunyana,  the  successor  of  Umzila,  sent  an  army  to  the 
vicinity  of  Inhambane,  for  the  purpose  of  punishing  the  chiefs  who  had 
renounced  their  allegiance  to  him,  Captain  de  Andrada  was  staying  at 
the  village  of  the  Portuguese  resident  on  the  Musurise  (Uniswelise)  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  chiefs  kraal.  Starting  from  Chiloane  he  had  suc- 
cessively crossed  the  swampy  maritime  zone,  the  open  grass  plains  of 
Mashanga,  and  the  woody  region  of  Madanda,  where  rubber  abounded. 


Hm  farihest  prist  wrjaOi  wm  HMonpTs  Tilkge  (lat.  W  57  S.^  nnr 
whidi  hft  rMUd  tiie  gimTe  of  d^iinn  Flupwrn-W jbnntB.  On  ^k 
proadiiog  tbe  Mnengeze  tlie  eomitrj  rises  into  hilk,  and  the  distriei  of 
Ziaihtanho  is  monntaixioiiib  After  s  Tint  to  the  confaence  of  the  Lmdi 
with  the  SaTe,  Captain  de  AnilnMia  Feiomed  to  the  cout,  toodung  the 
Ban  in  two  places,  in  Ut.  3(f  14'  S^  long.  33^  41'  £^  and  in  laL  19^  sr 
ar  &,  long,  34^  14'  K  The  Bini  is  naTigaUe  np  to  the  month  of  tlie 
Lonte.  From  Sofala  Captain  de  Andrada  started  &r  the  month  of  the 
Pnngaeyand  he  asccaidcd  that  river  dnring  ten  days  in  three  ''Bertan" 
boats  and  a  dng-ont,  nntil  near  the  Injamisage  hills  (in  laL  19^,  long. 
34*^  1^  mtisifs  of  rocks  render  its  farther  narigation  impoasiUe.  The 
hanks  of  the  Pnngne  axe  described  as  being  exceedingly  lertiley  and 
well  suited  for  plantations,  and  the  writer's  imagination  pictnres  a 
ftmrishing  town  qiringing  np  at  its  month,  which  shall  become  the 
outlet  of  a  well-cnltiTated  oonntrj,  and  of  prodnctire  mining  districts 
in  the  interior.  From  Kakaka's  riUage,  near  the  rapods,  the  writer 
proceeded  to  Gonreia^  the  capital  of  Kanica,  where  he  arrired  on  April 
10tlL  He  started  again  on  April  17ih  for  Bnpire  Qn  whidi  axe  the 
Emperor  William  Goldfields),  paasing  through  Shitindire,  wbidi  is  not 
a  swamp,  as  shown  on  Pinto's  map,  but  a  beautiful  upland,  in  idiich 
the  Injandue  and  the  Yunduri  hare  their  sources.  Psasing  thence 
throogh  Tana  and  Tumbara,  and  crossing  the  EaTieee  near  its  month 
(170^  15' 8.),  Bopire  was  reached  on  April  dOih.  Starting  thence  on 
llaj  2nd  the  writer  reached  the  Zambea  above  the  Kebrabaasa  rapids  on 
Ifaj  13th«  On  Kay  15th  he  left  dukora  on  his  return  journey,  spent 
the  night  of  the  20th  at  Tete,  travelled  thence  back  to  Bupire  by  a  new 
route,  and  once  more  readied  his  headquarters  at  Gouveia  on  June  28rd. 
It  will  thus  be  seen  that  Captain  de  Andrada  has  passed  through 
extensive  regions  hitherto  but  very  inadequately  shown  upon  our  mape. 
Antarctie  Exploration. — An  important  letter  has  been  addressed  to 
Admiral  Sir  Erasmus  Ommanney  by  the  Agent-General  for  IHctoria, 
Sir  Graham  Berry.  Sir  Graham  states  that  having,  in  accordance  with 
instructions  from  his  Government,  asked  Her  Majesty's  Government  if 
they  would  contribute  the  sum  of  50002.  towards  an  antarctic  expedition, 
provided  the  Australian  Colonies  agreed  to  contribute  a  rimilar  sum,  he 
has  received  a  letter  from  the  Colonial  Office  stating  that  the  subject  is 
**  now  under  the  consideration  of  Her  Majesty's  Government."  The  letter 
is  dated  Sept.  2nd,  but  unfortunately  did  not  reach  Sir  Erasmus  uatOi 
after  the  meeting  of  the  British  Association,  before  the  Antaictio 
mittee  of  which  Sir  Graham  suggested  the  subject  might  be 
with  a  view  to  bring  the  influence  of  the  Association  to  bear  Oft 
Government  in  support  of  the  grant.  In  the  event  of  a  &nm 
answer  being  received  Sir  Graham  was  instructed  to  communioaii  i 
Sir  Allen  Young  with  the  view  of  ascertaining  upon  what  tOBB 
would  take  command  of  the  proposed  expedition.    It  is  m.  fllf 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


62a 


proposal  could  not  have  been  brought  before  tbe  Britisli  Association,  but 
we  hope  it  is  not  too  late  for  the  important  enbject  to  be  taken  np  io 
influential  quarters.  So  favourable  an  opportunity  for  the  resumption 
of  Antarctic  explomtion  shonhl  not  be  neglected. 

Kew  Route  to  Timbuktu.  —  M.  George  Angeli,  who  has  recently 
returned  from  a  jonrnej  of  exploration  in  the  Wefitem  Sahara,  has 
brought  forward  a  scheme  of  a  railway  direct  fromi  Capo  Juby  on  the 
West  Coast,  just  opiioaite  to  the  Canary  Islands,  through  the  Sahara  to 
Timbuktu  and  the  Upper  Niger,  He  states  that  he  has  received  oon- 
cessions  from  native  chiefs  both  in  the  Sahara  and  Sudan.  The  matter 
only  interests  us  from  the  geographical  point  of  view.  There  are  two 
ways  now  of  getting  to  Timbuktu ;  one  from  the  French  colony  on  the 
Senegal,  the  other  from  Algeria,  or  Tunisia,  or  Tripolitana,  across  the 
Sahara,  and  through  the  territory  of  the  Tuwarog.  M,  Angeli  main- 
tains that  his  line  is  perfectl}"  flat,  that  there  are  supplies  of  water,  and 
a  sparse,  but  not  hostile  population.  No  doubt  this  is  the  line  which 
will  eventually  be  followed^  but  the  times  are  not  propitious.  It  was  in 
this  neighbourhood  that  Mr.  Donald  Mackenzie  proposed  to  let  the 
w^aters  of  the  Atlantic  into  a  great  depression  of  the  Sahara,  and  thus 
form  a  great  navigablo  lake.  Timbuktu,  so  long  inaccessible,  will 
probably  be  got  at  in  this  or  the  next  generation. 

The  Physical  Features  of  Fernando  Po.^Horr  Oscar  Baumann,  a 
member  of  Br*  Lenz*  recent  expedition  to  Eiiuatorial  Africa,  contributes 
to  tho  current  part  of  PetermannV  *  MitteilungenV  an  interesting 
sketch  of  the  physical  geography  of  the  island  of  Femando  Po.  The 
volcanic  group  of  which  the  island  is  a  member,  forms  a  line  ruuning 
south-west  from  tho  Cameroons,  and  may  be  regarded  as  the  result  of 
an  eruptive  fissure^  which  on  the  one  side  extends  from  the  Cameroons  to 
the  Isle  of  Anno  Bon,  and  perhaps  further,  and  on  the  other  appears  to 
find  in  the  Rumbi  mountains  a  continuation  into  the  heart  of  Africa. 
Tho  northem  half  of  the  island  is  covered  almost  entirely  by  the  huge 
volcanic  peak  of  O-Wassa  (Clarence  Peak),  with  its  summit  situated  in 
the  centre.  Towards  the  north  and  north-east  the  mountain  gently 
slopes  to  a  precipitous  rocky  coast.  On  the  west  and  north-west  its 
steep  sides  are  cut  by  deeply  eroded  gorges  with  rocky  walls,  which 
end  in  a  narrow  belt  of  flat  country  rising  abruptly  frctr^-.  *^-^  '^' >ast.  On 
its  eastern  side  the  upper  slopes  of  the  moimfcaiii  are  ous  and  < 

wooded,   extending  down    to  a    ':  '   '       *  t 

1300  feet  above  th©  sftft-lnv.d,  wT.; 
to   the  coasts    The 
plateau  of  B«toi«  wl 
mountains  (al 
system  of  ih6 1 
in  conseqneiic 


624 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


the  different  atitboritie«  he  takes  its  height  to  he  9350  feet  The  alti- 
tude shown  on  the  Admiralty  charts  ia  10,030  feet*  He  determioed,  by 
his  own  observations,  about  fifty  altitudes  in  different  parta  of  the 
island.  The  volcano  may  be  regarded  as  extinct,  the  fire  and  clouds  of 
smoke  seen  at  times  on  the  summit  being  easily  explained  by  the  annual 
burning  of  the  grass.  The  crater  on  the  top  of  the  mountain  is  515  feet 
in  depth,  and  is  enclosed  by  grey  disintegrated  walls  of  basolL  On 
the  thickly  wooded  and  almost  impassable  slopes  there  are  m&ny 
subsidiary  craters,  with  which  in  a  certain  sense  the  remarkable  crater 
niin  of  the  Bay  of  Santa  Isabel  may  be  said  to  stand  in  connec- 
tion. The  east  and  west  coasts  of  the  island  present  a  strong  contrast. 
The  basaltic  rock  of  the  former  is  being  continually  crumbled  and 
carried  away  by  the  sea,  while  along  the  latter  the  land  is  gaining  on 
the  sea.  Here  the  formation  of  suooessive  sandbanks  in  front  of  the 
mouths  of  the  more  important  watercourses  has  cut  off  lagoons  of 
brackish  water,  wliich  are  first  of  all  covered  by  mangroves  and 
shrubs,  and  then  very  soon  by  marshy  tropical  woods.  On  the  west 
coast  the  river  mouths  are  turned  to  the  left,  while  on  the  east 
they  appear  to  be  directed  to  the  rigbt,^ — The  physical  geography 
of  the  southern  half  of  the  island  is  determined  by  the  mountain 
range  of  the  **  Cordillera  of  Fernando  Po/*  wliich  in  two  chains  con- 
nected by  a  pass  ruTis  practically  east  and  west*  These  chains  culminate 
in  several  summits  which  have  a  volcanic  character  only  on  account  of 
their  basaltic  composition.  In  the  south  of  the  island,  and  apparently 
quite  intlependent  of  the  Cordillera,  there  rises  a  lofty  volcanic  mass. 
On  the  top  of  one  cone-shaped  peak,  precipitous  on  all  sides,  there 
extends  a  flat  basiu  surrounded  by  a  circle  of  hills.  This  the  author 
supposes  to  be  the  remains  of  a  large  crater.  It  is  a  noteworthy  fact 
that  the  aborigines  of  the  island,  the  Bubo,  choBO  this  basin  as  the  site 
of  their  largest  and  most  important  town,  Bial»ba,  which  is  held  in  great 
respect  as  Moka'a  village.  The  hill  range  running  parallel  to  the  south- 
east coast,  and  on  which  the  villages  of  Kutari  and  Globe  Riabba  are 
situated,  may  perhaps  be  considcTed  as  the  remains  of  a  wall  of  the 
Riabba  crater.  The  mountains  in  the  south  for  the  most  part  present 
an  alm*jat  perpendicular  slope  to  the  sea,  at  the  foot  of  which  there  is 
in  Borne  places  nothing  but  a  huge  barrier  of  volcanic  rocks  heaped 
together,  upon  which  the  foaming  surf  beats  furiously*  On  the  east 
coast,  however,  there  is  frequently  a  stretch  of  sandy  beach  between 
the  sea  and  the  mountain  front.  Like  all  volcanic  islands  in  the  tropics, 
Fernando  Po  is  well  watered.  From  all  the  mountain  slopes  numerous 
streams  of  clear  foiTuginous  water  precipitate  themselves  in  cascades 
into  the  depths  below.  But  the  relative  scarcity  of  water  on  the  east 
coast,  as  compared  with  the  west,  is  striking.  The  principal  river  of  the 
island  is  the  Uapa  or  Shark  river,  which  rising  in  a  small  lake  on  the 
southern  slopes  of  the  oordillera,  flows  south ;  it  is  navigable  for  some 


I 


GEOQRAPHIGAL  KOTES.  625 

distanoe  for  a  canoe.  The  rivers  eeldom  rise  at  a  height  of  more,  than 
2000  feet.  As  an  example  of  vallej  formation  in  this  voloanic  district, 
the  author  describes  the  valley  of  the  Amesuwa  in  the  sonth  of  the 
island.  The  river  flows  in  a  narrow  gorge  and  forms  a  snocession  of 
waterfalls  and  pools,  the  latter  being  dammed  up  by  banks  of  stones. 
The  river  is  generally  dry  in  its  upper  course,  but  it  frequently  happens 
after  heavy  rains  that  the  pools  above  mentioned  are  swollen  and  over- 
flow, forming  a  strong  current.  In  a  oross  section  the  valley  in  many 
places  shows  an  elevation  in  the  centre  of  the  river-bed ;  here  the  sides 
of  the  ravine  are  hollowed  into  caves  by  the  underwash  of  the  stream. — 
An  excellent  map  embodying  the  results  of  the  writer's  three  months' 
exploration  of  the  island  is  published  with  the  paper. 

The  Attak  Oasis  and  Trans-Caspian  Deserts. — An  admirable  paper 
on  the  physical  geography  of  this  region  appears  in  Petermann's 
*  Mitteilungen  *  (No.  8),  by  M.  A.  Eonschin,  the  geologist  who  accom- 
panied Dr.  Badde  on  bis  recent  expedition.  Speaking  of  the  oases  of 
Attak,  the  writer  says,  "The  mountainous  part  of  Transcaspia  is 
bounded  on  the  west  (i.  e.  towards  the  Caspian),  north,  and  more  par- 
ticularly on  the  east,  by  an  interminable  sand  and  salt  desert,  which  is 
rapidly  advancing  in  the  direction  of  the  mountains.  The  loam  of  the 
mountain  face  being  easily  disintegrated  and  washed  down  by  the 
action  of  the  rain  and  snow,  a  zone  of  alluvial  soil,  in  many  places 
20  miles  broad,  has  been  formed  along  the  foot  of  the  heights.  This 
belt,  where  suflSciently  irrigated  by  mountain  streams,  gives  rise  to  the 
oases  of  Transcaspia.  The  recent  *  loess,'  which  covers  the  plain  still 
further  increases  the  fertility  of  the  soil."  A  tract  of  country  of  this 
nature  extends  along  the  north  of  the  mountain  range  from  Kizil-Arvat 
to  Sarakhs,  a  distance  of  over  300  miles,  equalling  in  area  the  cultivated 
part  of  the  Khiva  oasis.  The  contrast  between  the  two  districts  is, 
however,  very  striking.  While  the  oasis  of  Ehiva  is  covered  everywhere 
with  luxuriant  shady  orchards  and  rows  of  slender  poplars  enclosing 
extensive  cotton-fields,  the  Attak  region  is  for  the  most  part  a  salt 
desert-waste,  clothed  with  a  sparse  vegetation,  and  cultivated  only  in 
such  places  as  Geok  tepe,  Askabad,  Artyk,  and  Eaaka,  which  scarcely 
seem  to  bi-eak  the  desolate  uniformity  of  the  remaining  nine-tenths  of 
the  country.  The  chief  reason  for  this  is  the  lack  of  running  water  in 
the  latter  region.  The  streams  flowing  from  the  mountains  into  this 
belt  of  country  number  only  twenty-six,  and  the  volume  of  water  thus 
discharged  is  calculated  to  be  not  more  than  75  cubic  metres  per  second, 
or  about  a  tenth  part  of  the  quantity  required.  On  the  other  hand,  the 
Amu  Daria  pours  water  into  the  oasis  of  Ehiva  at  the  rate  of  2800  cubic 
metres  per  second.  The  relative  scarcity  of  water  in  the  Transcaspian 
region  may  be  explained  on  the  following  grounds :— (1)  the  small 
amount  of  atmospheric  precipitation,  (2)  the  narrow  area  and  thin 
clothing  of  vegetation,  coihbined  with  the  unimportant  absolute  height 


626 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES, 


and  Bteep  slope  of  tlie  moimtaios  whicla  give  rise  to  the  majority  of  the 
wateroonraes.  Tlie  oaees  of  Tejend  and  Merv  poesesa  a  much  greater 
wealth  of  water  than  those  of  Attak,  being  fed  by  the  Tejend  and 
Murghalv  rivers,  which  draw  their  supply  from  the  snow-clad  snminits 
of  the  ParopamisuB  and  Hindu  Kush. — With  regard  to  the  Trans- 
Caspian  deserts,  M*  Eonschin  gives  a  mass  of  valuable  information.  It 
is  impossible  for  us  to  do  more  than  indicate  some  of  the  cooclnsionfl  at 
which  he  arrives.  He  regards  the  great  Eara-Kum  desert  as  originally 
having  formed  part  of  the  old  Aralo-Caspian  basin»  the  marly  loamy  bed 
of  the  latter  having  by  the  action  of  air-cnrrenta  been  transformed  into 
the  sandy  desert.  He  found  between  Zulfigar  and  Ful-i-Khatnn  im- 
portant tracer  of  the  earlier  action  of  the  sea  in  washing  away  the 
sedimentary  strata  of  tho  hills.  Regarding  the  dunes  proper  as  belonging 
only  to  the  sea-coast,  he  divides  the  typical  sand- hi  Us  of  Turkomania 
into  two  classes :  (1)  the  bare  hills  of  recent  formation  and  relatively 
unimportant  dimensions,  which  are  difltinguished  by  their  sickle-shaped 
form  and  extraordinary  mobility ;  (2)  those  of  greater  antiquity  and 
larger  dimensions,  characterised  by  irregular  outline  and  rendered 
perfectly  stable  by  plant  growth.  The  takyrs  and  other  physical 
features  of  the  desert  are  also  described  in  detail.  That  the  western 
part  of  the  Kara-kiim  and  all  the  south-east  coast  of  the  Caapian  waa  at 
a  comparatively  retent  period  under  the  waves  of  the  sea  is  proved  hy 
the  numerous  specimens  of  the  Aralo-Caspian  mollusk  fauna  found  in 
the  sand.  In  the  centre  of  the  Kara-kum  the  takyrs  and  depressions 
have  lost  their  remains  of  marine  fauna^  and  the  Band-hills  have  become 
more  stable,  proving  this  part  of  the  desert  to  he  older  than  the  west. 
The  eastern  portion,  which  is  of  still  greater  antiquity,  is  the  region  of 
the  "  ungusses,'*  or  desiccated  lakes,  gulfs,  (fee.  The  principal  eeries  of 
those,  known  as  the  Charjui-daria,  Charjui-ungus,  and  Eelif-usboi, 
intersects  the  Eara-kum  steppe  from  north-west  to  south-east.  M. 
Eonechin  proves  this  to  he  only  an  ancient  shore-line  of  the  Caspian, 
and  not,  as  formerly  supposed,  an  old  bed  of  the  Amu-Daria.  Upon 
this  ancient  shore-line  of  the  Caspian  he  dwells  at  some  length, 
showing  how  it  corresponds  with  the  contour-line  of  the  sand-banks  of 
the  Eara-kum.  He  then  passes  on  to  a  description  of  the  Sara-Eamysh 
basin  and  compares  it  with  that  of  the  Kara-kum.  The  former,  when 
filled  with  water,  was  io  connection  with  the  Aral  by  means  of  the  Gulf 
of  Abougir  and  with  the ,  Caspian  by  the  Balkan  Gulf,  and  into  the 
united  budn  the  AmU'Daiia  flowed  from  the  south-east.  The  final 
connection  between  the  Aral  and  the  Caspian  was  by  means  of  the 
depression  of  the  western  Ueboi  extending  along  the  Ust-Urt  and  the 
Great  Balkan.  After  the  ruin  of  the  more  pronounced  basin  there  still 
remained  a  series  of  coast  lakes  parallel  to  the  shore- line  of  the  Ust-Urt. 
Through  these  lakes  the  waters  of  the  Aralo-Sara  Kamysh  basin  drained 
into  the  Caspian  in  a  slowly  moving  str^aam.     That  the  Usboi  formed 


J 


OEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  627 

this  final  communication  between  the  Aral  and  Caspian  is  farther  proved 
by  the  discovery  of  important  traces  of  the  action  of  marine  ice  in  this 
line  of  depression.  In  conclusion,  M.  Konschin  expresses  his  opinion 
that  the  conversion  of  the  low-lying  plain  of  Turkomania  from  a  sea 
bfisin  into  a  sandy  desert  is  due  to  (1)  the  influence  of  the  polar  winds, 
(2)  the  upheaval  of  the  ground.  With  regard  to  the  former  cause,  the 
action  of  the  prevailing  north  and  north-east  winds  in  this  region  is 
well  known ;  they  may  be  regarded  as  great  pumping  works  extracting 
the  moisture  from  the  soil  and  carrying  it  away  to  the  west.  He  takes 
the  following  to  be  evidences  of  an  upheaval : — (1)  The  high  altitude  of 
the  most  recent  pliocene  strata  in  the  ravines  of  the  Kioren  Dagh; 
(2)  the  hook  shape  of  the  peninsulas  of  Krasnovodsk,  Darshe,  and  of  the 
island  of  Cheleken ;  (3)  the  narrow  and  extraordinarily  long  coast-lakes 
which  line  the  shore  of  the  Caspian  between  Khiva  Bay  and  Chikishliar 
Bay ;  (4)  the  numerous  narrow  lagoon-beds  running  parallel  to  the 
oasis  of  Akal-tekke  and  the  Kioren  and  Kopet  Dagh  ranges;  (5)  the 
peculiarity  of  the  mouths  of  the  Atrek  and  Gurgan  rivers,  with  their 
marshy  tracts  and  continually  changing  channels;  (6)  the  numerous 
remains  of  marine  organisms  and  traces  of  the  action  of  the  sea  at 
elevations  considerably  higher  than  the  present  sea-level. 

The  Upper  Hawash. — An  Italian  traveller,  Dr.  Traversi,  made  during 
the  summer  of  last  year  an  excursion  to  the  Suai  Lake  and  the  upper 
course  of  the  Hawash.  He  accompanied  the  expedition  despatched  by 
King  Menilek  of  Shoa  against  the  Arussi  Galla.  Although  he  only 
reached  the  north  shore  of  the  lake,  he  ascertained  by  his  route  that 
there  is  no  discharge  from  the  lake  to  the  Hawash.  The  river  Maki, 
rising  in  the  Gurage  hills,  flows  westwards  into  the  northern  end  of  the 
lake,  where  the  Catara,  coming  from  the  east,  also  discharges*  According 
to  the  natives,  the  lake  has  an  outlet  in  the  south  called  the  Suxuki, 
which  flows  into  a  second  lake  named  Hogga.  From  the  high  ground 
to  the  west  of  the  lakes  the  traveller  was  able  to  see  a  third  and  more 
important  lake  further  south,  which  bears  the  name  of  Lake  Lamina. 
The  sketches  and  information  obtained  by  Dr.  Traversi  have  been  em- 
bodied in  a  map  by  Professor  Delia  Yedova,  from  which  it  may  be  seen 
that  Cecchi's  representation  of  all  the  country  to  the  south  of  the  Upper 
Hawash  needs  considerable  alteration. 


No.  X.— Oct.  1887.]  2  t 


628  PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECHON 


PEOCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 
OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION. 

MANCHESTER  MEETING,  1887. 

The  Committee  of  the  Geographical  Section  was  constituted  as  follows : — 

President. — Colonel  Sir  Charles  Warren,  b.e.,  o.c.m.g.,  p.b.s.,  f.r.g.8. 

Vice-Pbesidbnts. — H.  W.  Bates,  r.B.8.;  Henry  Lee  (Chairman  of  the  Manchester 
Geographical  Society) ;  Admiral  Sir  Erasmus  Ommanney,  o.b.,  f.b.s.  ;  General  Sir 
H.  E.  L.  Thuillier,  b.a.,  f.b.8.  ;  General  J.  T.  Walker,  b.e.,  f.b-s.  ;  Colonel  Sir 
Charles  W.  Wilson,  b.e.,  k.c.b.,  f.b.s. 

Secrbtabies.— Rev.  L.  C.  Casartelli,  m.a.,  ph.d.  ;  J.  S.  Keltie ;  H.  J.  Mactinder, 
M.A. ;  E.  G.  Ravenstein  (Recorder), 

Committee. — E.  van  Eetveldo  (Chief  of  the  Foreign  Department  of  the  In- 
dependent Congo  State) ;  Dr.  Ginsburg ;  Colonel  Holdich,  b.e.  ;  J.  Arthur  Hutton 
(of  Manchester)  ;  Prof.  Libbey  (of  Princeton,  New  Jersey) ;  Hugh  R.  Mill,  D.8C. ; 
E.  Delmar  Morgan;  Josiah  Pierce,  jun.  (of  the  United  States  Geological  and 
Geographical  Survey) ;  Sir  Rawson  W.  Rawson,  k.c.m.o.  ;  Trelawney  W.  Saunders ; 
Eli  Sowerbutts  (Secretary  of  the  Manchester  Geographical  Society)  ;  Rev.  S. 
Alford  Steinthal  (of  Manchester) ;  Rev.  Canon  Tristram,  d.d.,  f.b.s.  ;  Coutts  Trotter ; 
Sir  Harry  Verney,  Bart. ;  Captain  Verney,  b.n.  ;  Rev.  Thomas  Wakefield ;  Prof. 
A.  W.  Ward  (Vice-Chancellor  of  the  Victoria  University) ;  Cope  Whitehouse,  m.a.  ; 
Colonel  Sir  Francis  de  Winton,  k.c.m.o  ;  Dr.  Ludwig  H.  Wolf  (Staff-Surgeon,  Royal 
Saxon  Army  Corps). 

Delegate. — T.  Gushing  (Croydon  Microscopical  and  Natural  History  Society). 

The  meetings  of  the  Section  took  place  in  the  Anatomy  Room  of  the 
School  of  Ai-ts,  a  lofty  apartment,  seating  about  300  auditors.  The 
meetings  were  largely  attended,  and  occasionally  the  room  was  crowded 
to  its  fullest  capacity.  The  papers  on  geographical  education,  and  on 
the  Ordnance  Survey,  and  on  the  Congo,  excited  perhaps  most  interest, 
and  led  to  lively  discussions,  which  had  to  he  curtailed  owing  to  the 
want  of  time.  Amongst  the  distinguished  foreigners  present  were 
M.  E.  van  Eetvelde  and  Lieutenant  Le  Marinel,  hoth  deputed  hy  the 
King  of  the  Belgians  to  represent  the  Congo  State. 

Altogether  thirty-four  papers  were  read  and  three  Reports  of  Com- 
mittees were  presented,  including  fourteen  on  Africa,  four  on  Asia,  two 
on  America,  one  on  Australia,  one  on  the  Antarctic  regions,  five  on  geo- 
graphical education,  four  on  cartography,  and  six  of  a  miscellaneous 
nature. 

On  Monday,  Sir  Francis  de  Winton  delivered  a  lecture  on  "  Explora- 
tions in  Central  Africa/'  in  the  Free  Trade  Hall,  which  attracted  a  very- 
large  audience.  Earlier  on  the  same  day.  Professor  Lihhey,  a  member 
of  the  United  States  Alaska  Exploring  Expedition,  lectured,  in  another 
place,  on  the  Indians  and  the  scenery  of  South-eastern  Alaska. 


OP  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCTATION.  629 

Thursday,  September  let. 

The  Fbesident  opened  the  Section  with  the  following  address : — 

My  predecessors  in  former  years  have  used  their  discretion  in  the  opening  address 
either  to  generalise  on  the  science  of  geography  or  to  lay  stress  npon  those  particular 
subjects  to  which  they  considered  it  desirable  to  call  attention.  I  propose  on  this 
occasion  to  refer  to  matters  which  have  long  been  of  importance  to  those  who  are 
desirous  of  the  spread  of  the  knowledge  of  geography,  and  in  which  I  trust  the 
public  generally  are  acquiring  an  interest.  I  refer  to  the  teaching  of  geography  in 
our  schools  and  the  economy  and  advantage  to  the  State  which  would  result  from  a 
more  perfect  and  skilful  system  of  instruction. 

The  term  geography  covers  a  very  wide  area,  and  while  limiting  its  nse  to-day 
to  the  more  restricted  sense  generally  accorded  to  it  in  modem  times,  I  must  pro- 
test against  its  being  applied  only  to  a  dry  digest  of  names  of  places  and  record  of 
statistics,  rendering  it  a  bugbear  in  the  instruction  of  youth  instead  of  allowing  it 
to  cover  all  those  interesting  and  engrossing  subjects  which  truly  belong  to  it,  and 
without  the  knowledge  of  which  the  mind  of  youth  cannot  be  trained  and  expanded 
in  the  direction  to  which  the  science  tends. 

As  the  geographer  Strabo  points  out,  our  science  embraces  astronomy,  natural 
history,  and  is  closely  connect^  with  meteorology  and  geometry,  the  arts,  history, 
and  fable;  but  since  his  day  so  much  progress  has  been  made  in  the  arts  and 
sciences  that  the  branches  of  geography  have  become  specialities  to  be  taught 
separately,  and  the  old  root  geography  has  been  almost  laid  aside  and  treated  with 
contempt,  though  it  is  only  by  a  thorough  acquaintance  with  it,  the  knowledge  of 
common  things,  that  the  branches  which  depend  upon  it  can  be  thoroughly  com- 
prehended. We  may  take  geography,  then,  to  embrace  all  that  knowledge  of 
common  things  connected  with  the  surface  of  the  earth,  including  the  seas  and  the 
atmosphere,  which  it -is  necessary  for  every  human  being  to  be  acquainted  with  in 
order  that  progress  in  other  knowledge  may  be  acquired  and  acquaintance  with  the 
world  be  made  which  will  fit  man  for  life  in  any  capacity,  whether  as  occupying 
the  highest  position  even  to  the  most  humble.  Indeed,  it  is  difficult  to  say  in  what 
capacity  in  life  this  knowledge  is  most  required.  No  man  can  do  practical  work 
without  it,  and  to  the  theorist  it  is  absolutely  essential.  .  .  . 

It  should  be  a  matter  of  great  interest  to  those  who  instruct  in  geography  to 
study  its  gradual  development  from  the  earliest  data  and  to  watch  the  progress  it 
has  made.  And  this  is  not  a  matter  of  very  great  difficulty,  for  as  geography  is  the 
knowledge  of  common  things,  and  the  ancients  were  more  experienced  observers 
than  ever  we  may  hope  to  be,  the  earliest  records  we  possess  are  full  of  geographical 
accounts.  In  the  books  of  Moses,  three  thousand  years  ago,  we  obtain  our  first 
recorded  view  of  the  cosmogony  of  the  ancients,  at  which  time  the  world  is  supposed 
to  be  a  fiat  disc  with  water  surrounding  the  land,  and  this  idea  pervades  later  books, 
and  is  dwelt  upon  in  the  Psalms  of  David.  Homer  also  held  a  similar  view,  and  to 
him  is  accorded  by  Strabo  the  honour  of  being  the  founder  of  geographical  science, 
because  he  excelled  in  the  sublimity  of  his  poetry  and  his  experience  of  social  life ; 
and  a  reason  why  he  excelled  is  carefiQly  related.  He  could  not  have  accomplished 
it  had  he  not  exerted  himself  to  become  not  only  acquainted  with  historical  facts, 
but  also  with  the  various  regions  of  the  inhabited  land  and  sea,  some  intimately, 
others  in  a  more  general  manner.  '*  For  otherwise  he  would  not  have  reached  the 
utmost  limits  of  the  earth,  tmversing  it  in  his  imagination.**  Herodotus,  to  whom 
we  are  indebted  for  furnishing  us  with  the  earliest  known  system  of  geography, 
also  held  the  same  view  concerning  the  earth ;  but  it  is  worthy  of  remark  that  he 
speaks  in  his  day  (450  b.o.)  of  there  being  another  view,  as  to  the  world  being  round, 

2  T  2 


6S0 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


wbJcli  lie  considers  to  bo  cxcee^imgly  ridiculous,  and  tbereforc  it  may  be  surmised 
tliat  evcQ  at  tliat  tarly  period  tbere  were  mindij  tliat  bad  arrive<l  generally  at  the 
conclusion  wliick  now  obtains  as  to  the  ehapo  of  tbo  world.  .  .  . 

When  we  come,  however,  to  consider  the  progress  of  di^ooveries  on  the  sur&ce 
of  the  earth  itself,  the  strides  in  latter  years  appear  to  be  enormous,  but  yet  wo 
must  not  forget  that  there  is  aa  ebb  and  flow  constantly  going  on.  Discoveries  are 
made  and  lost  sight  of,  and  again  are  brought  forward  as  new.  Sometimes,  after  an 
account  of  diacoreries  has  been  published,  a  second  account  differs  moat  materially 
from  the  lirst,  and  the  public  have  to  wait  for  further  examiQation.  Cases  have 
occurred,  as  in  the  early  Portugnes©  discoveries  in  Central  x\frica,  in  which  the  plans 
and  accounts  liave  been  laid  on  one  side  and  forgotten,  and  the  territories  rediscovered 
and  Biirveyod  years  afterwards.  Again,  sketches  of  new  countries  liave  been  made, 
and  the  surveyor  has  omitted  to  show  what  is  conjecture  and  what  is  from  actual 
observation,  and  his  plana  throughout  bare  been  discredited.  In  some  cases  these 
mistakes  havo  retarded  discovery,  in  some  they  have  directly  led  up  to  it — as,  for 
example,  in  the  gigantic  geographical  error  in  p^laclnj*  on  the  globes  of  the  fiftoenth 
century  the  eastern  extremity  of  Asia  no  less  than  150  degrees  longitude  too  far  east, 
which  ]}romptecl  Columbus  to  endeavour  to  reach  A^ia  from  the  west,  and  thus  led 
to  his  discovery  of  America.  .  .  * 

What  we  require,  however,  is  precise  and  accurate  information  of  the  earth's 
surface,  however  it  may  be  obtained,  and  to  train  the  minds  of  our  youth  in  the 
powers  of  observation  sufficient  to  enable  them  to  obtain  this  information ;  and  if 
in  so  doing  our  countrymen  continue  to  be  stimidated  to  deeds  of  daring,  to  enter- 
prise aud  adventures,  to  self-denial  and  hardships,  it  will  assist  in  preserving  th« 
manhood  of  our  country,  which  is  more  and  more  endangered  year  by  year  in  con- 
sequence of  our  endeavour  to  keep  peace  within  our  borders  and  to  stave  oflf  strife 
with  our  neighbouris. 

Probably  many  of  us  here  to-day  of  mature  age,  on  looking  back  at  our  early 
acquaintance  with  geography,  will  recollect  liUle  but  a  confu!?ed  list  of  proper 
names  and  statistics,  learnt  by  rote,  and  otdy  im|)erfectly  carried  in  the  mind,  so 
that  only  a  few  portions  stand  out  still  visible,  and  those  probably  connected  with 
pleasurable  and,  in  some  cases,  painful  accessories ;  perhaps  those  particular  lessons 
which  we  may  have  assisted  some  school  friend  to  muster  still  remain  as  clear  as 
ever ;  or,  again,  those  learnt  under  the  terror  of  the  rod. 

Taking  schools  and  subjects  nil  round,  nothing  probably  has  ever  been  worse 
taught  than  geography  was  only  a  few  years  ago,  and  very  little  progress  towanis 
a  good  system  has  even  yet  been  introduced  into  higher  class  schools,  though  in  the 
schools  of  the  people  an  effort  has  been  made  to  render  the  subject  more  palatable 
and  instructive. 

The  faults,  however,  of  the  system  hitherto  in  use  are  now  fully  recognised,  and 
objectious  are  general  that  the  study  has  been  made  too  piaiuful  .1  grind  and  that  the 
whole  process  has  been  of  too  severe  a  character.  If  this  were  the  only  fault  to  be 
found  in  the  old  method,  I  for  one  would  bo  inclined  to  adhere  to  it,  assured,  as  I 
am,  that  no  training  of  the  mind  can  take  place  without  great  denial  and  sacrifice  in 
learning  self-control.  But  the  real  question  is  as  to  the  practical  results  of  the  old 
system.  Are  they  of  such  a  character  with  all  or  the  majority  of  minds  (of  aU 
classes  and  conditions)  that  they  have  become  stored,  with  useful  knowledge  and  at 
the  same  time  trained  to  take  a  ^ileajure  in  iocrejislog  it  in  the  future?  If  the 
res\ilts  are  short  of  this  we  aiunot  but  pronouaco  the  old  system  to  be  a  failure,  as 
the  knowledge  of  geography  is  the  knowledge  of  common  tbingg  insepftrably  con- 
nected with  the  life  of  each  one  of  us,  and  there  is  no  better  medium  through  which 
the  mind  can  be  trained  to  be  always  in  a  condition  for  acquiring  knowledge  without 
making  too  great  an  eSfort. 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION.  631 

Unfortunately  for  the  prospects  of  introducing  a  complete  and  perfect  system  of 
teaching  geography  (suitable  to  most  minds),  the  reaction  that  has  set  in  recently  is 
likely  to  lead  to  evil  results,  if  not  carefully  curbed.  It  seems  now  to  be  desired  to 
promote  the  acquirement  of  knowledge  at  the  earliest  age  without  effort  and  without 
hard  work ;  but  this  appears  to  be  directed  towards  alleviating  the  toils  of  the 
instructor  as  much  as  the  instructed,  and  we  have  now,  as  a  result,  children  taught 
common  things  without  any  efifort  to  strengthen  their  memories,  and  then  a  system 
of  cramming  introduced  at  a  later  period,  when  the  memory  has  ceased  to  be  capable 
of  responding  to  the  efiforts  made,  and  consequently  all  the  information  crammed  in 
is  dropped  again  in  a  few  months.  .  .  . 

It  seems  to  me  that  the  remedy  recently  adopted  is  worse  than  the  disease  it  was 
to  eradicate,  and  that  however  injurious  it  was  to  attempt  to  store  the  mind  with 
mere  names,  yet  the  memory  was  trained | thereby  to  retain  something  definite; 
and  it  is  still  worse  to  attempt  to  store  the  mind  with  mere  ideas  without  the 
connection  of  names,  and  leave  the  memory  to  rust. 

There  is  obviously  a  middle  course  which  may  rid  us  of  the  errors  of  the  past 
without  leading  us  into  still  greater  difiSculties.  And  if  we  keep  the  object  to  be 
gained  always  in  view  we  cannot  fail  to  take  a  direct  line.  We  want  first  to  lead 
the  memory  to  constant  exertion  of  such  a  nature  that  it  grows  stronger  day  by  day, 
but  is  not  overstrained  or  wearied ;  at  the  same  time  it  must  be  stored  with  useful 
facts,  which  may  be.  quite  above  the  capacity  of  the  mind  to  comprehend  at  the 
time,  but  which  will  be  required  all  through  life :  this  can  readily  be  done  by  means 
of  verses  or  rhymes  set  to  simple  airs  and  committed  to  memory  by  song.  There 
are  facts  of  the  greatest  importance  which  can  be  learnt  in  this  manner  with  very 
little  effort,  and  which,  if  not  fixed  in  the  mind  at  a  very  early  age,  the  want  of 
them  may  be  felt  throughout  life. 

As,  for  example,  the  directions  in  which  latitude  and  longitude  are  reckoned,  in 
which  the  sun  rises  and  sets,  the  relations  of  the  east  and  west  respectively  to  the 
north  and  south,  and  many  other  matters  which  appear  to  be  of  a  trivial  character, 
but  which  require  to  be  as  rigidly  committed  to  memory  by  rote  as  does  the 
multiplication  table. 

These  very  small  matters  are  the  foundations  of  everything  we  require  to  know, 
and  if  we  do  not  have  these  foundations  firmly  and  securely  fixed,  we  will  be  the 
sufferers  all  our  lives.  Too  much  attention  cannot  be  paid  to  them,  as  it  is  the 
early  lessons  which  remain  most  clearly  fixed  in  our  minds.  .  .  . 

Children  have  a  remarkable  capacity  for  making  pictures  for  their  mind's  eye  of 
everything  they  think  of,  which  is  dulled  gradually  as  books  are  taken  into  use ; 
this  faculty,  if  made  right  use  of,  may  be  developed,  and  will  greatly  assist  the 
study  of  geography,  and  will  lead  to  a  **  picture  memory,"  which  will  be  most  useful 
in  regard  to  maps,  drawing,  and  spelling.  .  .  .  When  highly  developed,  we  find  it 
employed  by  novelists,  who  can  bring  their  characters  up  before  them  and  picture 
them  enacting  their  parts,  and  also  by  artists,  who  sometimes  lose  the  power  of 
discriminating  between  that  which  they  actually  see  and  that  which  their  picture 
memories  call  up. 

Although  it  seems  to  me  absolutely  essential  to  cultivate  and  develope  the 
memory,  this  is  by  no  means  all  that  is  necessary.  At  the  same  time  must  be 
taught  the  proper  use  of  the  powers  of  observation  with  reference  to  nature,  which 
in  towns  is  so  difficult  a  matter,  placing  the  bulk  of  our  population  at  so  great  a 
disadvantage.  One  of  the  first  points  neglected  by  teachers  generally  is  to  explain 
to  children  what  the  object  or  result  of  the  lesson  is  to  be.  In  most  minds  it  is  very 
difficult  to  pay  real  attention  unless  it  is  known  what  is  to  be  the  general  drift  of 
the  conversation,  for  otherwise  the  mind  will  be  directed  to  points  quite  irreleyant 


632 


PROCEEDLNGS  OF  THX  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


CliiMren  should  be^^first  told  in  a  few  words  tlie  line  tbe  lesson  ia  going  to  take ; 
this  will  gnsitly  tend  to  secure  the  attisntion  of  what  am  termud  dull  children,  who 
often,  if  properly  treateii,  would  turn  out  the  cleverest,  but  who  cannot  grasp  a 
subject  until  tliey  seu  it  from  all  sides,  and  know  it  thoroughlyi  while  the  **  clever 
children  "  are  satisfied  with  a  view  of  one  side  only.  •  •  . 

It  must  be  recollected  that  from  tlio  moment  geography  is  taught,  children  will 
make  ma|js  or  pictures  in  their  mind's  eye,  whether  they  are  actually  presented 
to  them  or  not* 

For  example,  if  a  house  or  a  garden  is  mentioned,  both  the  teacher  and  the  ohild 
must  view  it  from  the  outside  and  from  a  certain  distance,  for  it  is  impracticable  for 
moat  minds  to  look  all  round  and  behind  at  oqo  time.  To  have  a  full  view  of  what 
is  mentioned  it  is  necessary  to  get  outside  and  beyond  it.  Children  will  differ 
among  themselves  in  their  method  of  viewing  what  is  gpoken  of,  but  the  teacher 
can  readily  ascertain  what  mental  pictures  they  have  formed,  and  can  make  use  of 
this  laculty  in  the  first  use  of  maps.  It  is  remarkable  how  readily  ^uneducated 
natives  in  nncivilised  cotintries  can  understand  plans  from  their  constant  obseira- 
tion  of  nature.  ,  ,  . 

It  13  of  vital  importance  that  children  in  our  island,  who  cannot  under  ordinary 
circumstances  have  snfBcient  opi>ortunities  for  using,  cultivating,  and  developing 
their  powers  of  obeervation  to  any  purpose,  should  have  the  use  of  maps  put  before 
them  in  such  a  manner  that  they  will  not  bo  led  into  error.  .  .  . 

It  is  very  common  for  children  to  mistake  east  for  west,  north  for  aoiitb,  and 
even  to  make  still  more  ridiculous  errors,  which  appear  on  reflection  to  be  quito 
impossible.  Yet  these  errors  remain  oft^n  unobserved  until  the  youth  is  eighteen  or 
nineteen  years  old,  when  he  begins  to  think  the  matter  out  for  himself,  from  finding 
that  he  k  contiuually  making  absurd  mistakes,  but  then  it  is  too  late  for  him  to  do 
more  than  know  that  he  is  liable  to  the  error,  for  on  an  emergency  it  will  crop  up 
in  spite  of  himself.  .  *  . 

It  seems  very  desirable  that  the  first  maps  presented  to  a  child,  viz.  those  of  the 
school  grounds  and  the  parish^  should  be  placet!  on  the  floor  and  properly  oriented  ; 
this  will  go  far  to  fix  the  correct  positions  of  east  and  west,  nortli  and  south,  and  will 
prevent  the  idea  of  the  nortli  necessarily  being  tip  and  the  south  damn.  It  is  to  be 
observed  that  if  a  child  looks  up  to  a  map  it  is  almost  equivalent  to  looking  at  the 
map  when  lying  on  the  back,  in  which  case  the  east  and  west  are  i  n  verted.  The  motion 
of  the  sun  over  the  map  might  with  advantage  be  pointed  out  at  various  times  of  the 
day,  and  if  the  position  of  the  rays  of  the  sun  on  the  floor  when  on  the  meridian 
could  1)6  shown  ench  day  ivhen  practicable  on  the  line  drawn  north  and  south,  it 
would  do  much  to  fijt  In  the  mind  the  fact  that  the  sun  is  iu  the  meridian  at 
apparent  noon  each  day.  A  sundial  should  also  be  available  in  every  school-yard  to 
which  children  may  have  access.  • . . 

Too  much  detail  should  not  be  crammed  into  the  early  lessons ;  a  good  firm 
fonndatiou  is  required,  something  to  start  upon  before  the  great  test  of  faith  is  made 
in  teaching,  viz.  tliat  the  world  is  round. 

Children  should  be  taught,  as  far  as  is  practicable,  to  make  this  discovery  for 
themnelves,  and  many  will  arrive  at  it  one  way  or  another,  or  think  they  do  so, 
which  is  equally  important.  It  is  far  better  they  should  grasp  truths  themselves 
than  have  them  drummed  into  them  ;  it  gives  them  confidence  in  tlieir  own  deduc- 
tions,  and  leads  to  further  observation  of  nature.  In  introducing  the  world  as  round, 
a  hluckboitrd  globe  should  be  used,  abotit  three  feet  in  diameter,  on  which  the  con- 
tinents are  outlined  boldly  in  red,  with  some  meridians  and  parallels  of  latitude  ia 
white.  It  would  be  well  if  a  portion  of  tlda  globe  could  be  taken  to  pieces  to  show 
how  a  horizontal  suodial  for  the  particular  latitude  is  constructed,  and  for  other 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION.  633 

matters  of  interest.  It  is  material  to  show  that  the  earth  revolves  on  a  fixed  axis 
from  day  to  day,  and  in  one  direction.  All  the  great  difficulties  in  learning  geography 
are  at  the  threshold  of  the  science  for  those  who  have  not  observed  nature ;  the  more 
abstruse  subjects  are  comparatively  easy  to  teach. 

The  first  difficulty  common  to  all  is  that  regarding  latitude  and  longitude,  regard- 
ing which  there  are  so  many  elements  of  error.  It  is  so  difficult  for  the  child  to 
recollect  what  term  means  length  and  which  breadth,  and  then  to  get  the  restive 
imagination  to  grasp  the  fact  that  the  length  is  sideways  and  not  up  and  down,  as  it 
apparently  should  be ;  for  even  if  the  earth  is  shown  to  be  an  oblate  spheroid^  there 
is  nothing  to  lead  a  child  to  see  that  there  is  a  greater  circumference  round  the 
equator  than  romid  the  poles,  and  the  time  has  not  arrived  to  perplex  the  child  with 
the  views  of  the  ancients  on  the  subject.  •  • .  The  only  practicable  method  is  to  put  the 
facts  of  the  case  into  amusing  verse,  and  commit  it  to  the  memory  by  song.  At 
this  stage,  also,  some  easy  standards  of  measurement  put  into  verse  and  to  music 
should  be  learnt  by  rote,  to  enable  the  child  readily  to  recollect  the  relative  measure- 
ments of  the  earth,  sun,  and  moon,  and  the  radii  of  their  orbits  and  times  of  progres- 
sion. •  •  • 

Once  the  preliminary  difficulties  are  over,  and  the  power  of  observation  and  con- 
templation is  acquired,  even  in  a  small  degree,  the  study  of  geography  becomes  but 
a  simple  matter,  for  it  is  the  learning  of  common  things,  matters  of  everyday  life, 
which  we  may,  if  in  the  country,  acquire  to  a  partial  extent  of  our  own  experience ; 
but  though  so  simple,  it  requires  continuous  application  and  attention. 

In  each  calling  or  trade  a  man  may  become  an  experienced  geographer  to  a  limited 
degree.  The  pilot,  for  example,  is  an  expert  in  the  geography  of  the  seas  he  works 
in,  for  he  not  only  knows  the  ports,  the  coast-lines,  and  the  sunken  rocks  and  sand- 
banks, but  he  also  knows  the  tides,  the  winds,  he  studies  the  clouds  and  the  currents, 
and  has  an  intimate  knowledge  of  the  contours  of  the  shallows ;  moreover,  he  knows 
the  shipping  of  various  countries,  the  merchandise  they  carry,  and  the  produce  shipped 
from  each  port.  In  the  same  manner,  by  hunting,  shooting,  fishing,  bicycling,  birds- 
nesting,  &c.,  we  acquire  a  knowledge  of  natural  history  and  topography  which  aid 
us  most  materially  in  the  study  of  geography,  and  which  in  a  limited  degree  is  the 
study  of  geography.  • . . 

Even  in  large  towns  it  is  practicable  to  learn  lessons  in  geography  from  actual 
experience  and  observation,  for  if  the  markets  and  railway  produce  are  examined,  it 
can  soon  be  ascertained  from  whence  the  articles  come  and  from  what  ports,  and  with 
careful  attention  most  valuable  lessons  in  political  economy  can  be  gained. 

The  knowledge  of  geography  thus,  even  in  its]  restricted  sense,  embraces  the  life 
of  an  Englishman  of  every  class  and  occupation,  and  its  study  is  of  the  greatest 
importance  to  every  man  who  has  an  occupation ;  it  is  singular  that  so  little  com- 
paratively is  thought  of  cultivating  the  science,  and  how  small  interest  the  State  has 
hitherto  taken  in  fostering  this  class  of  education. 

But  while  the  Board  and  other  schools  for  the  people  are  gradually  taking  up 
the  work  and  endeavourtng  to  work  out  a  good  system  of  education,  it  is  mortifying 
to  find  how  Utile  progress  has  been  made  in  the  higher  class  schools  where  such 
heavy  fees  uro  charged ;  and  the  question  arises  whether  in  these  schools  the  teachers 
apby  really  understand  the  subject  they  teach,  and  would  pass  an  examina- 
t  ^  Govemmcnt  inspects. 

^^Hb«te.u^«.  -.!«    |g  g|0  p,j^  iQ  ii^Q  greatest  disadvantage  with 

«  son  'of  a  labourer  will  hear  the  price  of 

"d,  BO  also  with  the  son  of  a  mechanic  and 

iphy  on  the  subjects  with  which  the 

Munm  learn  to  exercise  his  observa- 


634 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


tion  J  but  the  son  of  wealthy  parents  is  too  often  carefully  kept  from  hearing  all 
that  mi^ht  teach  him  geography,  and  he  is  seldom  obliged  to  exert  htmaelf  to  uae 
liis  observation  in  any  esscnlial  matters  of  daily  life  ;  this  is  reserved  for  the  play- 
ground, where  nothing  of  real  importance  is  at  stake,  and  must  have  the  roost 
deleterious  and  detrimental  effect  on  many  young  minds,  and  naturally  results  in  so 
large  a  proportion  hecoming  useless  for  any  occnpation. 

It  is  apparent  that,  as  education  throughout  the  country  progresses,  the  sons  of 
the  wealthy  classes,  if  they  are  to  compete  Buccesafully  with  others,  must  have  some 
better  mental  training  than  they  obtain  at  present^  otherwise  they  will  in  a  few  years 
be  distanced  by  the  sons  of  the  labourers,  artisans,  and  shopkeepers.  What  an 
Englishman  asks  for  is  a  fair  field  and  no  favour,  and  it  seems  hard  upon  a  parent 
who  struggles  through  life  to  make  money  to  be  enabled  to  give  his  children  the  best 
and  most  expensive  education  the  country  aflbrdSp  that  with  it  he  must  risk  a 
ti-aining  of  the  mind  which  is  inferior  to  that  in  the  less  expensive  schools  of  the 
l>eople.  As  we  are  behind  the  Continental  States  and  our  colonies  in  so  many  of 
our  institutions  and  land  laws,  so  we  are  behind  them  in  our  training  of  the  mind 
in  our  upper-class  schools;  by  neglectiog  by  artificial  means  to  develop  tbg  power 
of  observation  among  boys,  who  until  they  arc  put  out  in  the  world  are  never 
accustomed  to  do  anything  that  will  tend  directly  to  any  practical  and  useful  result, 
we  are  putting  them  to  the  greatest  disadvantage,  and  handicapping  them  in  the 
race  of  life, 

We  omit  to  train  the  memory  in  early  years,  to  lay  a  foundation  of  facts  in  the 
mind,  and  to  develop  any  power  of  observation;  we  carefully  prevent  their  doing 
anything  useful >  and  bring  them  up  in  a  moral  atmospbere  in  which  the  idea  of 
aiiything  hut  amusement  is  practically  excluded,  and  then  in  later  years  we  attempt 
to  adjust  all  our  errors  by  cramming,  when  the  memory  is  incapable  of  being 
crammed,  and  the  mind  has  ceased  to  desire  to  acquire  information  ;  the  result  is 
that  so  many  youuf;  men  are  deliberately  rendered  unfit  for  work  in  life,  aud  those 
who  have  sufRcient  courage  and  energy  to  look  their  proi^j^ecta  in  the  face  find  the 
enormous  disadvantages  to  which  their  teacliing  has  subjected  them,  and  luee 
precious  years  in  unlearning  and  learning  a^ain. 

More  unfortunately  still,  the  best  and  choicest  of  our  minds  cannot  be  crammed  ; 
and  thus  drop  out  at  our  examinations  many  minds  of  the  class  that  for  practical 
purjxjses  would  he  most  useful  to  the  State.  I  allude  more  particularly  to  the 
minds  endowed  with  cogitative  faculties,  which  tend  to  originality  and  research  ; 
these  minds  cannot  be  successfully  trained  unless  combined  with  the  teacbing  there 
is  something  useful  to  do.  It  is  often  observable  that  an  indolent,  inert,  and  lazy 
hoy  suddenly  becomes  filled  with  enthusiasm  and  emulation,  both  at  studies  and  in 
the  playgronndj  when  subjected  to  a  change  of  training.  I  venture  to  assert  that 
every  year  at  our  public  examinations  many  men  are  rejected  who  are  of  the  most 
superior  class  of  mind  fur  all  practical  purposes,  who  are  physically  most  capable, 
who  are  so  constituted  that  they  cannot  cram,  and  who,  though  retarded  by  want  of 
proper  training,  are  beginning  to  train  their  minds  for  themselves,  and  who  if 
brought  up  under  a  good  system  in  early  years  would  take  the  highest  places  in 
examination.  We  are  thus  losing  year  by  year  from  our  front  rank  the  men  who 
would  be  of  the  greatest  service  to  the  State. 

The  pleas  given  for  the  study  of  geography  by  Strabo  are  worth  bringing  before 
the  mind  of  youth,  for  he  points  out  that  while  the  success  resulting  from  knowledge 
in  the  execution  of  great  undertakings  is  great,  the  consequences  of  ignorance  atB 
disastrous,  and  he  refers,  amoug  other  instances,  to  the  shameful  retreat  of  the  fleet 
of  Agamemnon  when  ravaging  Mysia,  and  to  bring  it  more  home  to  our  everyday 
life  he  says :  "  Even  if  we  descend  to  such  trivial  matters  as  hunting,  the  case  is 


■ 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCUTION.  636 

still  the  same ;  for  he  will  be  most  Buccessfnlin  the  chase  who  is  acquainted  with  the 
size  and  nature  of  the  wood,  and  one  familiar  with  the  locality  will  be  the  most 
competent  to  superintend  an  encampment,  an  ambush,  or  a  march.'* 

He  further  calls  attention  to  *'  the  importance  of  geography  in  a  political  view. 
For  the  sea  and  the  earth  on  which  we  dwell  furnish  theatres  for  action ;  limited, 
for  limited  action,  vast,  for  grander  deeds ;  but  that  which  contains  them  all  and 
is  the  scene  of  the  greatest  undertakings,  constitutes  what  we  term  the  habitable 
earth ;  and  they  are  the  greatest  generals,  who,  subduing  nations  and  kingdoms 
under  one  sceptre  and  one  political  administration,  have  acquired  dominion  over  land 
and  sea.  It  is  clear,  then,  that  geography  is  essential  to  all  the  transactions  of  the 
statesman,  informing  us  as  it  does  of  the  positions  of  the  continents,  seas,  and  oceans 
of  the  habitable  earth." 

Of  all  persons  who  require  a  knowledge  of  geography  stand  first  those  who  are 
most  concerned  in  the  government  of  our  empire,  and  yet,  as  has  been  mentioned, 
these  have  for  the  most  part  been  brought  up  at  schools  where  the  mental  training 
for  geography  is  most  defective.  Our  statesmen,  as  a  rule,  have  neither  theoretical 
teaching  nor  practical  experience,  and  it  is  perhaps  not  too  much  to  say  that, 
putting  on  one  side  those  who  are  merchants  and  sailors,  there  are  no  more  ignorant 
persons  with  regard  to  geography  than  our  lawgivers.  This  ignorance  endangers 
the  safety  of  the  country,  for  the  people  are  continually  perceiving,  with  regard  to 
matters  of  everyday  life  and  practical  experience,  that  their  lawgivers  are  more 
ignorant  than  themselves,  and  are  consequently  constantly  interfering  and  giving 
advice  in  the  details  of  the  administration  of  the  empire. 

The  progress  and  development  of  a  free  country  depends  upon  the  characteris- 
tics of  the  inhabitants,  but  these  again  depend  in  great  measure  upon  the  natural 
resources  of  the  country — the  soil,  climate,  mineral  wealth,  navigation,  mountain 
ranges,  risks  and  dangers  from  natural  causes,  and  we  must  not  omit  the  position 
of  the  country  both  with  reference  to  commerce  and  war. 

It  is  not  usually  the  country  too  greatly  favoured^by  nature  which  develops 
most  rapidly,  neither  is  it  necessarily  a  long  term  of  peace  which  favours  progress ; 
on  the  contrary,  all  experience  shows  that  man  requires  a  certain  amount  of 
opposition  to  bring  out  his  energies  and  stimulate  him  to  exertion,  and  though  we 
are  constantly  talking  in  our  country  of  the  blessings  of  peace  and  horrors  of  war, 
we  must  generally  acknowledge  that  our  present  foremost  place  among  nations  is 
due  in  a  great  degree  to  the  keeping  up  of  our  innate  energies  by  incessant  turmoils 
and  differences  of  opinion  within  and  little  wars  and  commercial  rivalry  without. 
It  is  not,  then,  to  a  reign  of  peace  in  which  our  energies  would  stagnate  and  become 
effete,  but  to  a  continuance  of  political  excitement,  which  keeps  the  people  on  the 
alert,  that  we  should  be  indebted  for  progress,  and  our  statesmen  should  be  sujfi- 
ciently  well  educated  and  trained  to  take  advantage  of  every  time  of  excitement  in 
furthering  the  welfare  of  the  empire. 

We  owe  the  benefit  (before  railways)  in  the  improvement  of  oiu:  great  northern 
roods  for  military  purposes  to  the  rebellion  of  1745,  leading  to  our  being  able  to 
run  coaches  between  London  and  Manchester  in  1754,  and  between  London  and 
Edinburgh  in  1763.  Scotland  and  Ireland  are  both  indebted  to  war  and  disorder 
for  the  first  roads,  constructed  for  purely  military  purposes. 

But  while  the  duty  of  taking  advantage  of  each  fitting  opportunity  for  developing 
a  country  lies  with  the  statesman,  his  prospect  of  success  depends  in  great  measure 
upon  his  geographical  knowledge.  His  work  may  serve  but  for  the  purposes  of 
the  moment,  and  never  benefit  posterity,  if  he  has  no  knowledge  or  foresight,  no 
originality  of  purpose  and  perception  of  the  fitness  of  things. 

The  measures  that  can  be  taken  may  be  divided  into  two  classes— domestic  ani) 


636 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


inteniational*  The  former  deaigaed  to  beaefit  the  country  or  empire  directly ;  the 
latter  to  ghidd  the  land  from  hostilities  from  without,  and  in  which  the  consideration 
of  geographical  position  has  a  most  all-important  bearing.  In  this  latter  class  a 
complete  knowledge  of  geography  ia  au  absolute  necessity,  as  the  question  arises  so 
oft^n  as  to  whether  the  acquisition  of  geographical  pofiitiong  will  weaken  or  strengthen 
a  kingdom.  For  example,  were  Ireland  two  degrees  further  to  the  west,  it  is  probable 
that  aO  our  views  as  to  the  method  of  conucctiog  it  for  administrative  purposes 
with  Great  Britain  would  be  greatly  modified.  Again,  the  particular  poiuts  at 
which  our  coaling  stations  may  be  situated  about  the  world  may  depend  upon  a 
variety  of  circimistances,  changing  from  one  year  to  another.  Thus  Gibraltar,  from 
ita  gec^raphical  position,  was  an  absolute  necessity  to  uh  thirty  years  ago,  but,  owing 
to  various  changes,  it  is  not  now  of  equal  value,  either  as  a  coaling  station,  for  pro* 
tecting  our  commerce^  or  as  a  depdt  lor  our  ivares,  and  the  question  is  arking  vnth 
aome  geographists  whether  it  might  not  with  advantage  be  exchanged  for  Ceuta 
on  the  opposite  coast. 

It  is  possible  that  a  more  full  geographical  knowledge  of  Egypt  and  the  Suez 
Canal  might  have  materially  modified  our  present  occui)ation  of  Egj^pt.  The  canal 
could  not  be  held  without  a  fresh-water  supply,  and  the  possession  of  Cairo  and  the 
Nile  is  the  key  to  the  fresh-water  canal  supplying  Isniallia  and  Suez.  Had  it  been 
known  that  a  plentiful  supply  of  water  could  be  obtained  close  to  the  marine  canal> 
independent  of  the  Nile  water,  it  is  questionable  how  far  any  occupation  of  Egypt 
would  have  been  necessary. 

In  such  cases  it  is  not  sufficient  that  the  Government  aubordinatea  should  have 
a  knowledge  of  geography,  for  even  if  they  are  fully  conversant  with  what  they 
ought  to  know,  it  would  be  almost  impracticable  for  them  to  convey  to  statesmen 
knowledge  which  their  untrained  minds  render  them  incapable  of  retaining  or 
making  use  of. 

In  settling  {x^litical  boundaries  it  may  appear  at  first  sight  that  they  should 
coincide  with  certain  geographical  features,  forming  natural  boundaries  not  only 
in  international  matters,  but  also  iu  cases  of  provincial,  county,  town,  and  parish 
boundaries,  and  also  in  accordance  with  historical  associations ;  but  we  must  do  our 
statesmen  the  justice  to  admit  that  the  deviations  they  adopt  may  not  always  be 
the  result  of  ignorance,  but  arise  from  an  astute  perception  that  it  may  be  neceseaij 
in  the  future  to  have  a  cause  for  further  modification,  or  even  for  raising  the  whole 
question  anew.  It  is  difficult,  however,  to  see  how  this  can  with  any  propriety 
arise  in  domestic  matters,  and,  apart  from  the  doubtful  political  morality  involved, 
it  would  only  occur  in  international  matters  on  the  assumption  that  our  empire  is 
paramount,  and  can  quarrel  when  it  chooses ;  and,  moreover,  in  such  a  case  could 
only  be  Justified  by  being  carried  out  with  so  perfect  a  knowledge  of  geograpliy  tliat 
in  any  reopening  of  the  question  our  country  should  be  in  the  right  j  whereaa  bitter 
experience  has  shown  us  that  our  statesmen  have  almost  Invariably  placed  us  in  the 
wrong* 

It  is  fatftl  in  domestic  matters  to  ignore  the  physical  features  within  a  coimtrj', 
and  attempt  to  obliterate  its  historical  and  to|>ographical  associations,  as  the  French 
Revolutionists  attempted,  by  substituting  their  departments  for  the  old  provinces. 
This  has  only  led  to  an  artificial  divisiou,  which  has  not  taken  root  among  the 
people,  and  French  geographers  are  still  calling  attention  to  the  absurdity  of  present 
divisions.  In  such  cases,  we  must  keep  alive  to  what  are  the  ostenaible  and  what 
the  actual  reasons  for  such  changes,  aod  if  the  so-called  simplicity  introduced  by 
lawyer  statesmen  leads  to  increased  law  exi>enBes,  we  may  reasonably  look  witi 
suspicion  on  such  an  interference  with  the  economical  administration  of  the  affairs 
of  the  nation.    In  our  own  country  geography  is  intimateiy  connected  with  all  kinds 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCUTION.  687 

of  divisions  of  land,  which  are  dealt  with  by  the  administration.  A  simplification 
of  the  arbitrary  political  divisions,  and  a  medication  and  synchronisation  of  boun- 
daries might  lead  directly  to  simplification  of  administrative  machinery,  and  saving 
of  expenses  in  salaries,  &c.  London  itself  is  a  glaring  instance  of  Uie  waste  of 
money  and  friction  of  departments,  from  the  extraordinary  overlapping  of  boundaries 
— political,  magisterial,  petty -sessional,  police,  statistical,  postal,  public  works,  &c. 
Probably  a  great  portion  of  the  time  and  energies  of  the  superior  officers  in  the 
various  departments  is  occupied  in  waging  war  on  one  another,  keeping  the  peace, 
or  temporising  with  or  watching  each  other ;  and  this  not  from  their  own  desire  to 
quarrel,  but  from  the  fault  of  the  system  which  overlaps  duties  as  well  as  boundaries, 
and  often  gives  one  and  the  same  duties  to  be  performed  by  distinct  departments. 
Perhaps,  in  some  instances,  this  friction  may  call  out  latent  energy,  but  it  at  least 
most  successfully  prevents  departmental  superiors  from  looking  into  their  own 
departmental  affairs,  and  developing  and  perfecting  the  local  administration,  and 
keeping  up  to  the  times. 

With  regard  to  international  boundaries,  too  little  attention  is  usually  paid  to 
the  changes  which  are  caused  by  the  advance  of  civilisation.  For  example,  a 
natural  boundary  may,  in  time,  become  merely  conventional  owing  to  development 
of  communications. 

At  one  time  the  Bhine  was  a  natural  boundary,  but  has  now  become  a  channel 
of  communication.  Again,  the  Zambesi  is  at  present  a  natural  boundary,  completely 
separating  distinct  tribes ;  the  time  may  come  when  it  also  will  be  a  great  channel 
of  communication.  The  usual  natural  international  boundaries  are  broad  or  rapid 
rivers  and  arms  of  the  sea,  mountain  ranges,  deserts,  and  swamps  ;  but  the  highlands 
and  lowlands  of  a  country  are  also  naturally  separated,  as  they  usually  are  inhabited 
by  people  of  different  nationality. 

InJEurope  we  find  natural  boundaries  gradually  losing  their  efficiency^as  political 
boundaries.  The  Rhine,  for  example,  throughout  a  great  portion  of  its  length  has 
ceased  altogether  to  be  a  political  boundary,  for  though  it  is  still  a  military  line  of 
great  strength,  each  large  town  on  either  bank  has  its  suburb  on  the  opposite  side, 
and  the  population  has  become  so  assimilated  that  the  river  has  ceased  to  be  a 
practical  political  line.  Consequently  the  line  of  the  Yosges  is  deemed  by  many  to 
have  become  the  natural  boundary  between  France  and  Germany,  on  account  of  its 
coinciding  with  the  linguistic  barrier.  But,  again,  linguistic  boundaries  are  no  tests 
of  the  limits  of  nationalities  or  national  feeling.  When  a  foreign  language  is  forced 
upon  an  unwilling  people,  they  may  for  many  generations  be  acutely  opposed  to  the 
nation  whose  language  they  have  [adopted.  On  the  Lower  Danube,  however,  the 
physical,  linguistic,  and  political  divisions  all  coincide,  and  the  river  has  become 
neutralised  and  is  a  natural  boundary. 

In  Central  Europe  we  find  the  highlands  of  the  Alps  forming  the  natural  and 
political  boundary,  though  the  people  speak  three  different  languages ;  but  in  these 
cases  the  people  probably  will  not  be  found  to  be  of  the  same  race  as  those  speaking 
the  same  language  in  the  plains  below.  • 

Again,  in  the  Pyrenees  we  find  a  natural,  political,  and  linguistic  barrier  coin- 
ciding, assisted  by  the  fact  that  the  mountain  people  are  a  different  race  from  those 
in  the  plains  to  the  north  and  south. 

In  our  own  country  we  have  a  curious  instance  of  language  being  no  proof  of 
the  nationality  of  the  people,  as  the  Iberians  in  Wales  speak  Celtic,  and  the  Celts  in 
Western  Britain  speak  Anglo-Saxon.  Again  in  South  Africa,  wo  have  the  people 
of  French  extraction  speaking  Dutch  and  still  feeling  resentment  to  the  Grovemment 
on  account  of  having  forced  a  foreign  language  upon  them,  although  the  British 
have  succeeded  the  Dutch. 


638 


PROCEEBmGS  OF  TM  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


Amoug  Asiatic  and  African  territories  bouniiariea  are  very  often  lll-^eBned  and 
uncertain.  Frequently  it  happens  tliat  between  two  powt^tfiil  states  tliere  is  a  \axgG 
tract  of  oonutry  which  owes  a  double  allegiance,  paying  tribute  to  eacli,  and  yet  in 
some  respects  remaining  independent,  probably  consisting  of  lands  which  are  easily 
ravaged  and  are  com|3aratiTely  speaking  unprot^?ctGd  by  nature. 

When  we  look  info  the  subject  of  boundaries  among  ])astoral  tribes,  we  find 
cui'ious  anomalies.  The  land  belonga  In  many  instances  to  the  tribe  and  not  to  the 
individual,  grnd  cannot  be  alienated.  In  the  desert  of  Arabia  a  tribe  in  one  part  will 
have  an  interest  in  the  date  pahus  or  corn  lands  of  a  tribe  in  another  part,  and  this 
system  is  rather  fostered  than  disconntenancedj  so  that  when  evil  befals  an  indl- 
vidnal  in  one  part  he  may  go  and  live  with  his  tribal  friends  elsewhere.  It  is  a 
knowledge  of  tlie  intricate  connections  of  these  tribes  and  the  to]X)graphic  divisions 
of  tlieir  lands  which  admits  of  any  control  being  kept  over  these  warlike  i>eople,  A 
mistake  arising  out  of  a  nQisuuderstaDding  of  this  Bcdouiu  system  nearly  led  to  a 
disastrous  restdt  in  the  Egyptian  campaign  of  1882,  owing  to  an  outlying  branch  of 
one  of  the  most  powerful  tribes  in  Arabia  being  supposed  to  bo  a  petty  independent 
tribe  of  no  consequence. 

In  many  instances  the  cattle  posts  of  tribes  during  peace  time  by  mutnal 
consent  ititermlngle  and  overlap,  yet  are  kept  separate  and  distinct,  so  that  no 
geographical  boundary  is  practicable;  in  fact,  among  such  people  it  is  the  tribe 
before  the  territory  which  is  under  the  control  of  the  chief.  Thus  it  is  quite 
practicable  to  conceive  instances  of  a  tribe  living  on  lands  wnthin  the  area 
occupied  by  another  tribe  and  yet  governed  by  its  own  laws.  Many  of  the  diffi- 
culties the  British  have  encountered  io  South  Africa  have  arisen  from  a  complete 
ignorance  of,  or  wilfully  ignoring,  the  native  land  laws.  Under  the  tribal  system 
even  the  chiefs  in  council  have  not  the  power  of  disposing  of  any  portion  of  the 
land  they  use;  it  belongs  to  every  individual  of  tlie  tribe  and  of  the  tribal 
branches  and  to  their  children*s  children.  Thus,  when  a  chief  gives  over  his 
territory  it  does  not  follow  that  he  gives  over  the  land  for  disposal  as  crown  lands, 
but  only  the  goverament  of  the  peofde.  It  is  on  this  account  that  the  offer  of 
Khama  and  other  chiefs  of  the  Bechuanaland  territory  was  of  bo  great  value. 
They  proposed  by  agreement  in  council  in  their  respective  territories  to  hand  over 
to  Great  Britain  their  territories,  keeping  for  themselves  the  lands  they  used,  and 
offering  for  emigration  purposes  their  vast  extents  of  hunting  lands,  which  are  not 
now  of  the  same  value  for  hunting  purposes  as  they  were  in  former  days. 

But  Ibis  proposal  has  not  been  accepted,  and  a  parallel  of  latitude  lias  been  pro- 
claimed, without  consent  of  the  Bechuana  chiefs,  as  the  northern  limit  of  the  Britisb 
Protectorate,  cutting  Khamas  territory  into  two  parts,  and  cutting  a  jwrtion  of 
Matabeleland  off  from  Lobongolo's  territory,  so  that  the  Boers  of  the  Transvaal  can- 
not raid  upon  the  Matabeles  without  violating  the  British  Protectorate,  and  vice  twrw, 
while  we  have  no  means  of  securing  its  protection.  Again,  the  Matabeles,  wh^ 
making  their  annual  raid  upon  Lake  Kgaini,  will  violate  the  portion  of  the  State  of 
Khama  without  the  Protectorate,  and  he,  if  he  wishes  to  oppose  them,  must  do  so 
from  his  capital  within  the  Protectorate,  This  will  bring  us  into  conflict  with  the 
Matabeles,  or  else  will  practically  deprive  Khama  of  part  of  his  territory. 

It  is  difficult  to  conceive  any  arraugement  more  likely  to  lead  to  complications 
in  the  future.  The  Protectorate,  based  on  geographical  principles,  should  extend 
as  far  as  the  Zambesi,  taking  in  all  Khama's  certain  territory  and  as  much  of 
the  neutral  territory  as  might  l^  necessary  to  provide  a  natural  boundary  to  east  and 
west. 

In  East  Africa,  again,  the  definition  of  spheres  of  action  recently  is  anomalous, 
A  boundary  ten  miles  from  the  coast  for  the  Zanzibar  dominions  can  of  course  have 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION.  639 

only  a  tentative  character,  and  the  exact  definition  in  the  future  cannot  fail  to  lead 
to  conflicts.  Far  worse,  however,  is  the  adoption  of  the  river  Tana  as  the  northern 
boundary  of  the  British  sphere  of  influence — a  river  occupied  on  both  banks  by  the 
same  agricultural  tribes.  It  is  not  clear  for  what  reason  the  commissioners  have  left 
this  diflSculty  for  the  future. 

It  would  not  be  diflScult  to  give  many  recent  instances  in  which  those  charged 
with  diplomatic  definitions  of  international  boundaries  have  failed  in  their  duty 
owing  to  a  want  of  geographical  knowledge  of  the  localities  with  which  they  had  to 
deal. 

For  example,  the  boundary  treaty  of  1783  with  the  United  States  was  incapable 
of  being  carried  into  effect,  as  the  geographical  features  did  not  correspond  with  the 
assumption  of  the  commissioners.  This  led  to  a  dispute  lasting  thirty  years,  result- 
ing in  the  boundary  treaty  of  August  9th,  1843.  The  ignorance  of  the  geography 
of  the  country  in  this  case  led  to  very  inconvenient  and  even  disastrous  results. 

Again  with  the  San  Juan  controversy.  Historical  and  geographical  knowledge 
and  ordinary  care  for  the  future  development  of  Canada  might  have  led  to  such 
measures  having  been  taken  in  the  first  instance  as  would  have  prevented  cession  of 
valuable  positions  to  the  United  States  in  1846. 

In  India,  again,  our  want  of  knowledge  of  the  country  to  the  north  of  the  Afghan 
boundary  has  led  to  a  series  of  unnecessary  concessions  to  Russia.  Had  the  slightest 
encouragement  been  given  in  former  years  by  the  Indian  Government  to  enable 
officers  to  acquire  information  as  to  the  territories  beyond  our  Indian  Empire,  no 
doubt  we  should  now  be  in  a  more  secure  position. 

But,  fortunately  for  the  British  Empire,  foreign  politicians  have  also  much  to 
answer  for  to  their  respective  countries  on  account  of  their  ignorance  of  geography. 

For  many  years  past  Grermany  has  been  increasing  the  population  of  the  United 
States  and  our  own  colonies  without  assisting  to  further  the  influence  of  the  German 
Empire ;  whereas  had  her  statesmen  been  able  to  look  forward,  a  German  colony 
might  have  been  established.  Many  Germans  as  far  back  as  1866  were  desirous 
of  establishing  a  colony  in  the  Transvaal.  But  Germany  now  has  to  cast  about  for 
unoccupied  territory,  and  has  chosen  a  piece  of  useless  territory  on  the  western 
coast  of  South  Africa,  whereas  with  a  little  foresight  Prince  Bismarck  might  have 
obtained  on  easy  terms  the  whole  of  the  French  colonies  in  the  Gulf  of  Guinea  and 
north  of  the  C!ongo,  which  France  had  actually  abandoned  as  worthless.  Germany 
would  thus  probably  have  held  the  position  of  France  with  reference  to  the  reversion 
of  the  Congo  State. 

By  the  treaty  of  Frankfort  it  was  intended  that  all  Gkrman-speaking  villages 
were  to  be  ceded  to  Germany,  but  the  boundary  as  originally  laid  down,  for  want  of 
geographical  knowledge  on  the  part  of  G^erman  employ^,  left  several  German  vil- 
lages near  Metz  in  possession  of  France,  and  it  was  necessary  subsequently  to  rectify 
the  error. 

As  a  section  of  the  British  Association  we  are  interested  in  the  development  of 
geographical  knowledge  in  the  world  generally,  but  more  particularly  in  our  own 
Empire,  and  it  is  only  by  unceasingly  calling  attention  to  our  shortcomings  with  re- 
gard to  the  science  which  causes  us  to  meet  here  to-day  that  we  may  hope  for  that 
progress  to  be  made  which  will  enable  us  to  maintain  the  proud  position  we  at  pre- 
sent hold  among  nations,  owing  to  our  practical  skill  and  energy.  Hitherto  we  have 
possessed  so  many  other  advantages  that  we  have  been  able  to  dispense  with  a  good 
system  of  instruction,  bat  owing  to  various  causes  other  nations  are  gaining  upon 
us  in  various  ways,  and  we  in  our  turn  should  use  every  effort  to  successfully 
grapple  with  a  subject  which,  if  properly  taught,  must  affect  our  wel&re  as  a  nation 
so  deeply. 


640 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  TEE  GEOGRAPmCAL  SECTION 


Explorations  on  the  Upper  Kassai  and  Sanknm.     By  Dr.  Ltjdwtg 

WoLf. — ^Whea  Stanley  had  given  ue,  by  hia  marv^elloiis  joumGy  tbrocgh  the  Dark 
Continent,  the  knowledge  of  the  course  of  the  Congo,  the  tbotight  naturally  arose 
that  there  might  he  a  connection  between  this  gigantic  river  and  the  Kassai  and 
Saiikum,  which  bad  ahready  been  crossed  &r  to  the  south  by  Livingtone  and  Pogge. 
The  pTobability  of  this  Boon  led  to  the  desire  to  seek  such  n.  connection* 

Stanley,  on  his  way  down  the  Congo,  came  near  the  Equator  to  the  junction 
of  a  river  called  Ikelemba,  which  was  thought  to  be  identical  with  the  Kassai.  But 
going  hack  a  second  time  to  the  Congo,  be  saw  that  this  could  not  possibly  be  wo, 
aa  the  Ikelemba  was  but  a  small  river*  Then  it  was  suggested  that  tbe  Kassai, 
the  "most  mysterious  river,"  as  it  was  called,  probably  might  fall  into  a  large 
inland  lake,  like  Lake  Chad,  whick  probably  existed  in  the  son  them  basin  of  the 
Congo. 

Our  expedition,  tinder  Lieutenant  Wissmann,  sent  out  by  the  royal  protector  of 
African  exploration,  H.M.  the  King  of  tho  Belgians,  undertook  to  solve  the  Kasaai  pro* 
blem*  We  left  Hamburg  iu  November  1883,  for  Loanda  on  the  west  coast  of  Africa^ 
went  from  there  to  Malange,  the  last  Portuguese  station  on  the  eastern  frontier  of  An- 
gola, which  was  under  the  command  of  a  native  captain,  as  the  highest  military  as  well 
as  civil  functionary.  Our  plan  was  to  engage  carriers  here,  buy  the  required  goods  for 
barter,  and  then  try  to  reach  overland  the  Lulua  river,  an  affluent  of  the  Kassai,  in 
the  Baluba  country  of  Mukenge.  There  we  wished  to  establish  our  basib  of  opera- 
tions, build  canoes,  and  then  trust  ourselves  to  the  current  as  a  guide  down  the  Lulua 
and  the  Kassai,  either  into  the  Congo  or  into  a  lake.  This  seemed  to  be  certainly  the 
simplest  way  to  explore  the  course  of  the  river,  and  to  find  somewhere  the  place 
where  it  discharges  its  waters.  At  Malange  we  could  only  get  carriers  as  far  as 
Mukenge,  nobody  was  to  be  found  who  was  willing  and  plucky  enough  to  go  farther 
with  lis. 

,  The  men  of  Angola  are  not  nearly  so  useful  for  exploratory  journeys  as  the 
Zanzibarites.  In  the  first  place  they  are  on  an  Inferior  scale  of  civilisation,  are 
cowardly  and  always  inclined  to  mutiny  as  soon  as  they  hope  to  gain  by  it  any 
advantage  for  themselves.  In  the  second  place  every  carrier  baa  to  receive  his  pay- 
ment in  advance,  consisting  of  goods  for  barter,  which  he  afterwards  tries  to  sell  to 
the  natives  at  the  highest  possible  rate.  Ho  simply  ofim  himself  as  carrier  m  order 
to  have  the  opportunity  of  trading.  The  difficulty  of  keeping  together  our  500 
men,  belonging  to  different,  many  of  them  even  to  still  independent,  tribes  of  Angola, 
we  found  out  already  at  the  commencement  of  our  journey.  For  this  reason  the 
expedition  was  divided]  into  three  separate  columns,  each  one  marching  indepen- 
dently'and  separately.  They  all  left  Malange  in  July  1884,  under  Lieutenant 
von  Francois,  Lieutenant  Frana  Miiller,  and  myself,  for  Mukenge,  %vhero  they 
joined  again  in  November  after  an  overland  march  of  four  months,  the  distance 
being  about  800  miles. 

Lieutenant  Wisamann  was,  as  I  have  already  mentioned  before,  the  chief  of  the 
whole  expedition,  anl  I  was  designed  by  himself  as  second,  and  also  as  his  pre- 
sumptive fiuccesi?or  in  case  of  his  absence  or  illness.  This  latter  case,  unfortunately, 
happened  when  we  had  explored  tho  Kassai  and  reached  Leopoldville  on  the  Congo, 
July  1885.  Lieutenant  Wiasmann  and  (later  on)  also  Lieutenant  Miiller,  both  fell 
ill,  in  consequence  of  tho  many  hardships  wo  had  to  endure,  and  had  to  be  carried 
to  the  coast,  whilst  I  returned  to  the  interior  to  exjtlore  the  Sankuni  and  its 
affluents.  Our  expedition  w^as  in  a  state  of  great  embarrassment  at  the  Congo. 
We  had  left  Germany  for  Africa,  alogcther  eight  (white  men) ;  two  of  us,  Lieutenant 
Franz  Miiller  and  Mr.  Meyer,  a  gunsmith,  had  already  died.  Wissmann  and 
Miiller  had  to  be  taken  back  to  the  ooast^  seriously  ill.    Carpenter  Bergsbg  with  some 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCUTIOK.  641 

men  bad  remained  in  charge  of  Luluaburg  Station,  whioh  we  had  established  in  the 
Baluba  Country,  whilst  the  <chief  of  these  natiyes,  Ealamba  Mukenge,  with  about 
150  of  his  people,  had  agreed  to  accompany  us.  Only  a  few  of  our  Angola  men  had 
then  pluck  enough  to  go  also  with  us.  Gunsmith  Schneider  was  the  only  white 
man  of  our  expedition  who  was  still  with  me.  Many  of  our  faithful  Baluba,  who 
had  shown  such  an  unlimited  confidence  in  the  white  man,  unprecedented  in  the 
history  of  African  exploration,  were  ill  and  weak  in  consequence  of  the  hardships 
suffered.  A  tedious  overland  march,  or  the  hard  work  in  canoes  up  river,  of  some 
months'  length,  would  surely  have  proved  murderous  for  these  poor  people,  and  yet 
they  had  to  be  taken  back  to  their  homes.  This  was  certainly  a  sacred  duty  which 
by  all  means  had  to  be  carried  out. 

I  cannot  think  of  that  time  without  gratefully  remembering  a  man  whose  name 
will  ever  remain  connected  with  our  expedition :  I  mean  Colonel  Sir  Francis  de  Winton, 
who,  as  Administrator-General  of  the  new  Congo  Free  State,  has  enabled  me  to  take 
the  Baluba  back  to  their  homes  by  the  Stanley^  a  new  stem-wheel  steamer,  which 
first  had  to  be  put  together  at  Leopoldville.  Colonel  de  Winton  also  accompanied  me  as 
far  as  the  junction  of  the  Lulua  and  Luebo,  and  assisted  roe  in  every  possible  way. 
If  it  had  not  been  for  his  decision  to  use  the  Stanley  for  transport  of  the  Baluba 
natives,  many  of  them  would  never  have  seen  their  homes  again.  According  to  the 
wishes  of  His  Majesty  the  King,  Colonel  de  Winton  handed  over  to  me  a  steam 
launch,  the  En  Ava/nt,  and  allowed  two  agents  of  the  Congo  Free  State,  Mr.  Bate- 
mnn  and  Captain  v.  d.  Felsen,  to  enter  as  my  assistants  into  the  service  of  the 
Kassai  Expedition.  I  ought  to  mention  that  our  expedition  was  independent  of  the 
International  Association,  and  being  under  direct  orders  of  His  Majesty  the  King 
was  called  the  Kassai  Expedition.  At  the  jimction  of  the  Luebo  and  the  Lulua,  the 
furthest  navigable  point  south,  I  decided  on  establishing  a  station,  for  the  accomplish- 
ing of  which  Mr.  Bateman  deserves  great  credit.  After  having  taken  the  Baluba 
back  to  Mukenge,  and  seeing  the  station  of  Luluaburg,  under  the  care  of  Mr.  Bergslag, 
in  a  prosperous  flourishing  state,  I  began  the  exploration  of  the  Sankuru. 
Mr.  Schneider,  a  gunsmith  of  our  army,  took  most  skilfully  the  place  of  an 
engineer  on  the  En  Avant,  and  thus  enabled  me  to  make  1200  miles  on  this  small 
steam-launch  in  spite  of  her  poor  condition. 

On  the  8th  of  January,  1885, 1  embarked  at  Luebo  station.  Exactly  then  a  year 
ago,  when  I  was  amongst  the  Bakuba«  a  people  who  so  far  had  never  seen  a  white 
nmn  in  their  country  before,  I  received  the  first  startling  news  with  regard  to  the 
course  of  the  Sankuru,  which  gave  me  the  opinion  that  this  river  did  not  discharge 
its  waters  into  the  Congo,  as  formerly  was  believed,  but  into  the  EassaL  When  we 
afterwards  went  down  the  Kassai,  looking  out  for  affluents  on  both  sides,  we  found 
that  the  information  I  had  received  from  the  Bakuba,  that  the  mouth  of  a  river  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Kassai  was  that  of  the  Sankuru,  was  correct  However,  we  left 
the  question,  for  want  of  time,  to  be  definitely  settled  by  a  later  exploration  as  soon 
as  the  Kassai  problem  should  be  solved. 

The  junction  of  the  Sankuru  with  the  Kassai  is  full  of  sandbanks  and  islands. 
The  total  width  of  both  rivers  is  about  2i  miles ;  four  miles  above  the  junction  they 
are  running  quite  parallel  to  each  other  N.N.W.,  so  that  one  may  be  inclined  to 
take  the  right  banks  of  the  Sankuru  for  those  of  the  Kassai,  and  so  consider  both 
rivers  to  be  only  one.  But  soon  the  Sankuru  changes  its  course  almost  suddenly, 
and  is  now  coming  from  north  and  north-east,  whereas  the  direction  of  the  Kassai 
is  from  south  and  south-east.  Near  the  junction  the  right  bank  forms  a  steep 
wall  of  laterite  about  15  yards  high.  The  country  behind  is  an  open  prairie,  with 
narrow  strips  of  forest.  The  nearest  village  was  in  a  northern  direction  about  three 
miles  from  the  river,  inhabited  partly  by  Bashilehle  and  partly  by  Bassongo  Mine, 


642 


prck:eedings  of  the  geographical  section 


with  whom  friendly  reklions  were  soon  established.  The  Sankuru  further  up 
showed  itself  to  be  a  most  lieautiful  river,  the  width  of  which  sometimea  reaches  to 
about  three  miles.  This  lake-Uke  appearance  of  the  river  explains  probably  why 
Livingstone  and  Cameron  heard  about  the  existence  of  a  lake  Sankora  in  the  central 
basin  of  Africa.  The  average  depth  of  the  river  ia  about  three  fathoms,  and  the 
average  velocity  of  the  cpment  three  to  four  miles  an  hour,  a  little  more  than  that 
of  the  Kassai.  Yet  the  navigation  was  not  easy  for  the  En  Avant,  as  she  was  in  too 
poor  a  condition.  Sometimes  it  took  her  one  to  two  honrs  to  gain  abont  200  yards 
against  a  cuTrent  of  only  3i  miles  an  hour.  I  had  to  sacrifice  some  of  my  few  guns, 
which  were  used  to  replace  the  wora-ont  steam-pipes  and  fire-bars;  besides,  the 
broken  plate  of  the  engine  had  to  be  plastered  every  morning  with  clay. 

The  banks  on  either  side  of  the  river  were  now  covered  with  dense  forest,  now  an 
open  prairie,  dotted  hero  and  there  with  palms  and  other  trees,  making  the  scenery 
quite  pretty.  There  are  hills  on  both  sides,  gently  rising  from  50  to  200  feet  in 
height,  but  near  the  Lubi  junction  the  river  has  often  sharp  cuts  and  steep  laterite 
banks  100  to  20O  feet  high.  The  oil-palm  {EIxis  fjuinfensis)  is  quite  abundant.  On 
the  right  bank  of  the  lower  river-section,  in  the  Bassongo  Mino  country,  I  saw  the 
fim-palm  (Bomsstts),  I  mention  this  particularly,  as  1  never  found  theBorassus  on 
the  left  bank,  or  south  of  kt.  4^  S.  on  tlio  right  Kassai  hank.  There  seems  to  be  here 
a  kind  of  botanical  limit  for  this  species.  The  banks  on  both  sides,  especially  on  the 
left,  are  thickly  populated*  From  the  jimction  up  to  the  23rd  degree  E.  long,  are 
settled  the  Bankutu,  belonging  to  the  warlike  Bassongo  Mino  tribe. 

The  same  distance  on  the  left  bank  La  inhabited  by  the  Bakuba,  small  tribes,  who, 
though  indepondeni  of  one  another  and  each  oue  under  their  particular  chief,  highly 
resjiecfc  the  name  of  the  great  Bakuba  king  Lukeugo,  whom  I  had  visited  a  year  agot, 
and  for  that  reason  I  waa  amicably  received  everywhere.  Joining  the  Bassongo  Mino 
and  Bakuba  are  several  smaller  tribes,  as  the  Bashabbe,  But  o  to,  Bena  Lussamba, 
Kato,  Baluba,  ^c. 

All  these  tribes  are  more  or  less  troublesome,  though  finally  I  succeeded  in 
establishing  friendly  relations  with  almost  all  of  them. 

The  BaFBongo  llino,  with  whom  we  had  rather  a  hard  struggle  on  the  Kassai, 
as  they  attacked  us  treacherously,  were  also  hostile  on  the  Sankuru.  Yet  the 
daughter  of  the  powerful  chief  Gapetsh  interfered  and  influenced  her  jieople  not 
to  fight.  She  came,  quite  fearless,  with  but  a  few  companions,  to  pay  mo  a 
friendly  vmt  and  to  exchange  presents  with  me* 

The  tribe  of  these  Bassongo  Mino  is  settled  near  to  the  junction,  about  20 
miles  above.  I  saw  in  their  villages  some  commercial  articles  which  seemed  to 
have  come  the  long  distance  from  the  Congo.  The  chief,  for  instance,  wore  a 
heavy  solid  brass  ring  round  his  neck,  like  the  Bayanzi  do  on  the  Congo.  When 
I  asked  whence  this  brass  came,  they  at  once  jyointed  towards  the  north-west  and 
told  me  of  a  large  river,  where  white  men  with  fire-arms  lived.  Undoubtedly  they 
meant  by  this  river  the  Congo.  The  Bassongo  Mino  further  up  river,  under  their 
chief  Tongolafa,  were  quite  hostile,  and  were  the  only  people  who  confessed  them- 
selves to  bo  cannibals.  When  I  reached  the  country  the  l^n  Avant  had  to  be 
repaired  as  she  had  a  leak.  Cloth ,  cartridges,  everything  was  wet,  and  had  to 
be  dried  on  shore. 

Soon  several  canoes  full  of  nativea  came  along.  All  the  men  were  armed  with 
bows  and  arrows.  ITiey  were  quite  aatonisbed  to  see  a  white  man,  but  not  at  all 
frightened  by  this  first  sight.  One  of  my  Baluba  attracted  their  particular  atten- 
tion, being  fleshy  and  very  stout.  Some  remarks  were  heard  that  it  would  b© 
easy  to  kill  us  all,  as  we  were  only  a  few,  then  to  chop  ua  up  and  to  take  all  the 
beautiful  things  befiides.    Their  chief  Tongolata  already  fancied  I  was  quite  at  his 


I 


OF  THE  BRraSH  ASSOCIATION.  643 

mercy,  and  did  not  eveu  hesitate  to  tell  me  so.    Our  gons,  in  their  ignorance,  were 
not  considered  to  be  weapons  at  alL 

Something  had  to  be  done  to  check  these  hostile  natives  if  we  would  not  run 
the  risk  to  be  quickly  overpowered  by  their  large  number,  which  was  increasing 
every  minute.  Following  a  sudden  impulse  I  drew  my  revolver  and  discharged  it 
close  to  the  chiefs  ear.  The  result  was  startling.  Tongolata  got  so  frightened,  that 
he,  shiveriug  all  over  his  body,  took  hold  of  his  ears.  The  tingling  in  his  head 
made  him  probably  think  that  they  were  gone.  All  the  natives  looked  perfectly 
aghast  aud  quite  horrified.  The  chief,  as  soon  as  he  found  himself  unhurt,  pre- 
tended to  be  my  best  friend,  and  gave  me  as  a  proof  of  it  a  present  of  two  chickens. 

Up  to  the  Lubi  junction  there  were  a  great  many  canoes  on  the  river.  Some 
days  I  have  counted  100  of  them,  and  the  largest  one,  having  double  the  length  of 
the  En  Avant^  could  carry  as  many  as  80  people.  The  natives  rowed  standing 
up,  and  at  such  speed  that  they  easily  overtook  the  En  Avant,  When  they  had 
done  so,  they  used  to  express  their  joy  by  wild  cries  and  by  drumming  with  the 
palms  of  their  hands  against  the  sides  of  their  canoes. 

After  reaching  the  junction  of  the  Lubi  and  the  Sankuru  the  river  narrows  • 
in  some  places  to  260  yards  width.  On  the  18th  of  February,  1886, 1  arrived  at 
Katshitsh,  where  Pogge  and  Wissmann  on  their  journey  to  Nyangwe  in  1882  had 
crossed  the  river  and  had  learnt  from  the  natives  that  the  Sankuru  always  main- 
tained a  northern  direction.  They  told  me  the  same,  not  knowing  better ;  any- 
thing below  the  junction  of  the  Lubi  is  a  mystery  to  them.  Instead  of  Sankuru 
the  river  is  now  often  called  Lubilash.  A  Eoto  chief  on  the  right  bank  told  me 
about  some  rapids  ahead,  and  said,  ^  The  Sankuru  is  good,  the  Lubilash  is  bad  1 " 
which  means  that  the  river,  as  long  as  it  bears  the  name  Sankuru,  is  navigable,  but 
becomes  dangerous  for  navigation  on  account  of  these  rapids  as  soon  as  its  name 
is  changed  to  the  Lubilash.  The  river  narrows  to  250  yards,  has  an  average  depth 
of  three  fathoms,  a  velocity  of  current  of  4]  miles,  and  runs  sometimes  with  sharp 
cuts  between  st^ep  banks  of  laterite  50  yards  high.  I  passed  four  rapids  with  the  En 
Avant,  but  she  twice  struck  a  rock,  fortunately  without  being  damaged.  On  account 
of  these  rapids  I  went  nearly  as  far  as  6°  S.  lat.  overland  to  the  Baluba  tribe  Batondoi, 
who  live  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  I  found  the  rapids  increasing  in  number;  the 
river  being  only  30  yards  wide,  and  the  velocity  of  the  current  4  J  miles  an  hour. 

Between  Katshitsh  and  the  Batondoi  I  met  the  powerful  chief  Zappu  Zapp,  who, 
as  a  slave-hunter,  is  the  curse  of  the  country  between  the  Lubilash  and  the 
LomamL  Nearly  all  his  men  were  armed  with  percussion  guns,  which  he  gets  at 
Nyangwe  from  the  Arabs  in  exchange  for  slaves  and  ivory.  The  other  tribes  are 
still  armed  with  bows  and  arrows.  This  was  the  furthest  point  to  the  west,  whence 
the  trade  all  goes  to  Zanzibar.  Several  of  Zappu  Zapp's  men,  also  his  sons,  spoke  the 
Suahili  language.  Zappu  Zapp  wanted  guns  and  powder  from  me.  He  did  not 
care  for  anything  else.  When  I  refused  to  accept  his  slaves  and  ivory  he  resolved 
to  take  the  En  Avant  by  force  overnight.  I  fortunately  heard  of  his  scheme,  soon 
enough  to  prevent  it.  I  found  the  Lubi,  an  aflfluent  of  the  Sankuru  on  the  left  side, 
50  to  60  yards  wide,  with  about  two  fathoms  depth,  on  account  of  sharp  cuts  and 
turns  not  good  for  navigation.  The  En  Avant  was  driven  by  the  strong  current  at 
one  of  the  sharp  turns  against  the  right  bank  and  badly  damaged.  Going  down  the 
Sankuru  I  found  on  the  right  bank  the  junction  of  a  river  from  100  to  120  yards 
wide,  two  to  three  fathoms  deep,  falling  into  the  Sankuru  by  two  arms.  The  banks 
on  either  side  were  covered  with  dense  forest  and  Pandanus.  There  was  ^hardly  a 
place  for  landing,  and  no  village  to  be  seen.  All  our  food  was  consumed,  tea  and 
coffee  weeks  ago,  and  nothing  but  salt  left.  For  some  days  we  suflferedl  badly.  At 
last  I  got  provisions,  and  also  good  inrormation  from  the  Bena  Tehka,  friendly 
No,  X.— Oct.  1887.]  2  z 


64A  PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 

natives  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Lomami,  who  fell  down  on  their  knees  when  the 
En  Avant  came  in  sight.  They  told  me  that  the  river  at  its  junction  was  called 
Luetshu,  and  by  the  Bassongo  Mino,  Lukenge,  yet  that  they  themselves,  and  also 
the  natives  further  up,  used  the  name  Jjomami.  I  got  the  same  information  from 
other  natives  also,  who  all  distinctly  called  the  river  Lomami. 

When  I  foimd  the  river  taking  and  keeping  steadily  a  south-easterly  direction,  I 
began  to  think  that  the  river  might  be  the  Lomami.  As  the  Kassai,  the  junction  of 
which  was  thought  to  be  near  the  Equator,  and  the  Sankuru,  which  was  supposed 
to  discharge  itself  at  about  1°  ZQl  N.  lat.  into  the  Congo,  both  unexpectedly  took  a 
direction  north-west,  even  west,  it  is  not  surprising  that  the  Lomami  should 
do  the  same.  As  the  central  basin  of  the  Congo  is  a  tableland  with  a  gradual 
slope  from  the  south-east  to  the  north-west,  it  seems  also  to  be  quite  natuxal  that 
the  Lomami  should  take  a  corresponding  course.  The  Kassai,  Sankuru,  and 
Lomami  form  from  the  Congo  a  nearly  straight  water-way  to  the  east,  780  miles 
long,  which  cuts  off  the  north  curve  of  the  Congo,  and  opens  up  to  civilisation  and 
commerce  a  vast,  rich,  and  hitherto  unknown  country. 

After  my  return  from  the  Sankuru  I  happened  to  meet  again  quite  accidentally 
at  the  junction  of  the  Lulua  with  the  Kassai,  in  April  1886,  Lieut.  Wissmann,  who 
had  recovered  and  regained  his  health  by  his  stay  at  Madeira.  Mr.  Grenfell,  of  the 
Baptist  Mission,  had  brought  him  from  Leopold ville  up  the  Kassai  on  board  the 
Feace,  It  was  a  singular  meeting!  On  the  very  same  day  I  had  tied  up  the 
disabled  En  Avant  here,  close  to  the  right  bank  of  the  Kassai,  as  she  could  not  be 
taken  back  to  the  Luebo  station  against  the  current.  I  had  the  intention  to  con- 
tinue my  journey  in  a  boat  or  overland,  when  suddenly  here,  in  the  centre  of  Africa, 
the  English  flag  of  the  Peace  came  in  sight.  One  day  sooner  or  later,  and  we  should 
not  have  met  each  other.  Mr.  Grenfell  was  so  kind  as  to  take  the  En  Avant^  witii 
Captain  v.  d.  Felsen  and  Mr.  Schneider  on  board,  under  the  protection  of  the  Peaee 
down  the  Kassai  to  Leopold  ville.  I  have  still  to  mention  that  our  expedition  is  in 
many  ways  indebted  to  Mr.  Grenfell  and  the  Baptist  Mission.  When  Mr.  Wissmann 
and  Lieut.  Miiller  were  taken  seriously  ill  at  Leopoldville,  and  no  suitable  rooms 
could  be  found  for  them  at  the  station,  they  were  kindly  received  and  taken  care  of 
at  the  Baptist  Mission-house.  The  good  work  done  also  in  this  regard  by  the 
Baptist  missionaries  on  the  Congo,  especially  by  the  late  much-lamented  Mr. 
Comber,  cannot  be  highly  enough  valued  and  appreciated. 

In  the  spring  of  last  year  Wissmann  and  I  explored  the  Kassai  beyond  the 
Lulua  junction.  We  found  the  river  navigable  for  another  CO  miles,  and  then 
came  to  a  cataract  eight  yards  high,  which  I,  in  honour  of  my  friend  Wissmann, 
have  called  the  "  Wissmann  Fall." 

It  is  rather  a  remarkable  fact  that  on  passing  the  5th  parallel  of  south  lat.,  the 
river-beds  become  stony.  This  is — so  far  was  already  known — the  case  in  the  Congo 
and  Kuango,  and  I  found  the  same  in  the  Kassai,  Lulua,  Lubi,  and  Sankuru.  I 
conclude,  from  all  the  information  I  have  gathered,  that  this  cataract  region  between 
5°  and  G°  S.  lat.  stretches  from  the  west  coast  as  far  as  the  Tanganyika  lake. 
We  know  that  the  Lukugu,  the  outlet  of  the  Tanganyika,  also  is  stony.  This 
cataract  region  does  not  seem  to  be  without  influence  on  the  climate  and  on  the 
fertility  of  the  soil. 

The  highest  temperature  I  ever  found  in  Africa  was  on  the  Lomami,  where  the 
motion  of  the  air  sometimes  seemed  to  fail  altogether.  The  heat  was  like  that  of  a 
hothouse,  yet  I  never  found  it  so  disagreeable  as  for  instance  during  the  summer 
in  the  United  States  of  America.  The  nights  are  generally  cool  and  quite  fresh. 
From  the  Kuango  to  the  Kassai  the  primeval  forest  gradually  increases,  but  it  ia 
still  niore  or  less  limited  as  gallery  forest  to  the  many  rivers,  streams,  and  brooks. 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOaATIOK.  G45 

Yet  passing  the  Kassai  and  further  on  the  Lulna,  I  found  by  a  superficial  estimate 
about  40  to  50  per  cent,  dense  forest.  On  mj  journey  from  Mukenge  to  the  Bakuba 
land,  I  have  often  ^iravelled  for  days  through  primeval  forest.  I  mention  this 
particularly,  because  it  has  been  stated  that  there  is  no  forest  of  any  amount  in 
Central  Africa.  The  Sterculiace»  and  Burseracesd  form  here  gigantic  trees  springing 
out  of  the  dense  mass  of  foliage  and  bushwood.  The  indiarubber  creeper,  Landolphia, 
is  very  abundant  in  the  bordering  forest  of  all  the  tributaries  of  the  Eassai,  Lulua, 
and  Sankuru,  but  the  value  of  it  is  known  to  but  few  tribes.  Wherever  the  forest 
disappears,  grassy  glades  and  hills  prevail,  dotted  here  and  there  with  groups  of  oil- 
or  wine-palms  (Elmia  and  £aph.  vinifera).  The  soil  itself  in  its  composition  shows  a 
general  uniformity,  and  only  tiie*proportion  of  the  single  components  to  one  another 
seems  to  be  a  little  different ;  ferruginous  clay  and  sand  mixed  with  humus  are  most 
to  be  seen.  The  much  talked-of  laterite  is  to  be  found  everywhere,  yet  does  not 
at  all  cause  sterility.  As  in  the  upper  region  of  the  Nile,  the  laterite  also  runs 
through  the  most  fertile  territories  of  the  central  basin  of  the  Congo.  The  value  of 
the  soil  depends  chiefly  on  its  abundant  irrigation,  which  often  defies  its  chemical 
composition.  In  regard  to  the  rainfall,  the  central  basin  of  the  Congo,  as  far  as 
6^  S.  lat.,  differs  to  its  advantage  from  the  coast.  There  is  not  a  marked  dry  season. 
At  Luluabnrg,  for  instance,  during  two  years  of  meteorological  observations  in 
1885  and  1886,  we  had  rain  every  month.  June,  July,  and  August  are  the  months 
in  which  the  least  rain  falls,  but  they  have  a  heavy  morning  dew.  The  soils  proved 
to  be  excellent  for  plantations  of  rice,  sugar,  maize,  &c. 

The  country  from  the  coast  to  the  Eassai  is  thinly  populated,  though  all  the 
villages  I  passed  through  showed  a  great  number  of  healthy-looking  children.  This 
will  be  understood  if  wo  remember  that  this  r^on  has  for  centuries  provided  Angola 
and  the  foreign  market  with  slaves.  Already,  at  the  beginning  of  this  century,  the 
Portuguese  slave-dealers  have  sent  their  black  employes  as  far  as  Muata  Yamvo  to 
buy  slaves  there.  This  explains  to  us  abo  the  name  "  Pombeiros  "  on  old  maps  of 
Africa.  Pombeiros  means  simply  slaves  who  have  received  their  freedom,  and  is. 
not  a  family  name,  .though  we  still  find  it  erroneously  written  so. 

Passing  the  Kassai,  we  enter  the  thickly  populated  territories  of  Central  Africa. . 
The  first  people  we  met  here  were  the  Baluba.  It  is  only  a  few  years  since  they 
became  first  known  to  us.  Pogge  and  Wissmann  were  the  first  white  men  who  passed 
(1881-82)  their  country  on  the  way  to  Nyangwe.  Our  expedition  then  followed 
(1885),  and  we  have  been  enabled  by  these  natives  to  add  some  knowledge  to  the 
hitherto  unknown  hydro-orographical  condition  of  Central  Africa.  While  the  natives 
generally  at  first  meet  the  white  man  with  hardly  withheld  suspicion  and  even  hos- 
tility, the  Baluba  at  once  showed  us  a  blind  childlike  confidence.  They  greeted  us 
as  former  deceased  chiefs  and  relations  of  their  king,  Ealamba  Mukenge,  by  which 
names  they  always  called  us.  According  to  their  belief,  all  distinguished  warriors 
and  chiefs  will  return  to  them  metamorphosed  after  their  death.  Whilst  our  500* 
Angola  men  had  not  the  courage  at  Mukenge  to  go  with  us  down  the  Eassai,  or  to- 
make  any  further  journeys  into  the  interior,  the  Baluba  were  ready  to  help  us,  and 
to  go  wherever  we  wanted  them. 

The  Baluba  are  not  the  original  people  of  their  present  country ; '  they  are 
emigrants  from  the  south-east,  whilst  the  Bakuba  have  come  from  the  north-west. 
There  is  a  remarkable  difference  between  these  two  tribes.  They  differ  in  appearance, 
habits,  and  language.  The  Baluba  are  a  strongly  mixed  race,  which  I  could  also 
prove  by  anthropological  measures.  The  capacity  of  the  skull  is  extremely  variable, 
being  even  in  the  extremes  513  ccm.  On  the  whole,  the  average  capacity  is  but  little, 
and  gave  from  seven  skulls,  for  instance,  but  1257  ccnu  Women  had  only  1085, 
and  men  1386.    A  remarkable  difference  I 

2z  2 


6i6 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGIIAPHICAL  SECTlOJf 


It  would  lead  me  too  far  to  give  here  further  details  of  our  anthropological 
obBervatioiiB, 

The  Bakuba^havo  the  characteristics  of  a  piiro  race;  they  are  warlike,  real 
savagefit  and  very  au^Mirstitioua.  EDonnoiis  numbera  of  human  sacnfi^ces  still  take 
place  on  the  death  of  their  chiefs.  The  Bakuba  told  me  most  diatiixctly  that  they 
had  come  from  the  north-west,  and  taken  their  present  country  by  main  force  from 
the  Batna,  who  were  subdued  or  driven  away. 

On  my  journey  in  the  Bakuba  country,  north  of  Hukenge,  marching  all  day 
long  through  a  dense  foreat,  I  suddenly  arrived  at  a  grassy  glade,  where  I  unex- 
pectedly found  a  settlement  of  Batua,  the  African  dwarfk  These  little  people,  men 
and  women,  were  as  much  sJartled  as  I  was  at  our  meeting.  At  first  they  were 
frightened  and  would  have  run  away,  if  they  had  not  been  taken  qm'te  by  surpriae* 
After  a  while  they  became  friendly,  though  in  spite  of  all  efforts  on  my  side  they 
still  reraained  very  timid.  I  was  able  to  take  the  measure  of  their  length  by  a 
marked  spear  unobserved  by  tbem*  They  were  all  well  shaped,  had  uniform  dark 
coCFee-brown  colour,  and  not  apparently  any  pithecoid  signs  whatever.  Prognathism 
and  also  steatopygy  were  not  moiij  developed  than  with  other  African  tribes.  The 
Batua  are  a  mere  hunting  people  and  do  not  cultivate  the  soil.  They  dry  the  flesh 
of  the  animals  and  then  exchange  it  for  Indian  com,  manioc,  j)ea-nuts,  &c,,  even  for 
weapons  and  other  requirements  of  life,  with  the  Bakuba  and  Baluha,  on  a  neutral 
market-place  in  the  centre  of  the  forest  Eveiywhere  near  their  mean-looking  grasB 
huts  were  well-covered  pita  about  three  to  four  yards  deep,  for  catching  elephants* 
btiffaloes^  and  wild  boars,  in  case  they  should  leave  the  forest  to  seek  food  on  this 
small  grassy  gkdo,  I  also  found  the  Batua  at  the  court  of  the  Bakuba  king 
Lukengo,  where  they  were  employed  as  providers  of  game  and  palm  wine  for  the 
chiefs  table. 

Neither  the  Bakuba  nor  the  Batua  know  the  use  of  fire-arms,  yet  they  are  very 
^kilful  in  the  management  of  their  bows,  arrows,  and  spears-  Since  the  Baluba  have 
come  into  contact  with  tbe  Kioque  and  Baiigab,  trading  tribes  from  the  Lunda 
cotmtry  and  from  the  Kuango,  they  are  getting  provided  with  guns  and  jNowder,  for 
which  tbey  barter  childfen,  girls,  and  even  their  own  wives,  Mukenge  may  be 
called  the  most  imjwrtant  slave  market  of  Central  Africa,  as  yearly  thousands  of 
peo]>le  are  sold  there  into  slaverj^*  The  natives  are  so  interested  in  the  slave  trade 
that  it  will  take  a  long  time,  and  a  strong  civilising  influence,  before  it  will  cease 
to  exist.  Though  the  Baluba  have  a  very  keen  feeling  of  right  and  wrong,  which 
they  so  well  express  by  their  saying — 

"  Law  is  better  than  force, 
Life  is  better  than  wealth,'* 

yet  they  do  not  understand  that  there  is  any  wrong  in  selliiag  their  wives  and 
chilli  re  n  ;  as  these  are  property  they  consider  themselves  entitltd  to  dispose  of  them 
at  their  pleasure.  However,  they  make  a  difference  between  domestic  slaves  and 
skives  for  export  ITie  latter  are  usually  troublesome  individuals  whom  they  want 
to  get  rid  of.  Last  spring  there  was  iu  the  market  at  Mukengo  an  old  slave,  a 
rather  distinguished  looking  fellow,  who  had  been  a  chief  in  the  southern  part  of 
Baluba,  At  the  time  of  his  reign  he  was  very  warlike,  always  fighting  with  the 
neighbouring  tribes.  During  these  ooiitinual  wars  many  of  bis  subjects  had  been 
killed,  so  tbat  at  last  the  peojile  began  to  grumble  and  decided  quietly  to  sell  their 
own  cbiL^f  into  j^lavery,  the  best  way  to  get  rid  of  him,  and  to  live  for  the  future  in 
peace.  Tlicy  sold  him  for  ten  goats,  which  were  killed,  and  the  meat,  as  a  com  pen- 
satiou,  dii^tributed  cimongst  the  relations  of  all  those  who  had  died  in  the  frequent 
battles  of  their  chief. 


: 


I 


OP  THE  BRITISH  ASSCKJIATION.  647 

When  I  mentioned  to  a  Baluba  chief  how  wrong  it  was  to  sell  their  own  wives, 
he  quietly  listened  to  my  arguments,  and  then  told  me,  rather  in  confidence,  that 
they  only  sold  their  troublesome  wives  out  of  the  country,  never  the  good  ones. 

The  slaves  are  sold  either  to  the  Bakuba  in  exchange  for  ivory,  or  to  the  tribes 
living  more  west  for  guns,  powder,  and  doth. 

There  is  also  at  Mukenge  quite  an  important  trade  in  indiarubber,  which  has 
been  carried  on  for  several  years.  The  indiarubber  is  taken  overland  to  Malange. 
Tet  to  carry  one  load  of  about  75  lbs.  weight,  consisting  of  1000  small  balls  of  india- 
rubber,  this  long  distance  costs  500  balls  and  four  yards  of  cloth  besides.  To  meet 
these  great  expenses,  the  black  Bangala  or  Baluba  trader  buys  slaves  in  the  Baluba 
country  and  uses  them  as  carriers.  There  is  no  doubt  that  all  the  indiarubber  trade 
from  Mukenge  will  go  its  natural  way  down  the  Kassai  to  the  Congo  as  soon  as  the 
Congo  railway  is  made.  The  Eassai,  Sankuru,  and  Lomami,  forming  a  magnificent 
waterway,  lead  into  the  very  heart  of  Africa  through  hitherto  untouched  countries, 
where  an  abundance  of  dead  as  well  as  of  living  ivory  proves  that  it  would  be  at 
least  too  premature  an  occupation  to  calculate  in  how  long  or  short  a  time  probably 
the  last  elephant  tusk  may  be  shipped  from  Africa.  To  gain  the  real  profit  by  this 
shipping  road  the  access  to  this  navigation  from  the  coast  has  first  to  be  gained. 
Without  a  railway  on  the  Lower  Congo,  where  rapids  and  cataracts  prevent  the 
transport  on  the  river,  commerce  will  hardly  gain  any  profit  from  the  vast  stretch 
of  navigation  offered  by  the  Congo  and  its  tributaries. 

The  climate  of  no  country  has  been  so  much  abused  as  that  of  the  Congo, 
and  in  fact  the  whole  of  Central  Africa.  People  who  have  come  home  disap- 
pointed from  the  Lower  Congo  have  often  considered  themselves  competent  to 
discuss  not  only  the  climate  of  the  small  part  of  Africa  they  had  seen,  but  also  of 
the  interior.  Africa,  as  well  as  other  countries,  has  its  climato-geographical  frontiers, 
and  the  climate  of  the  interior  differs  most  advantageously  from  that  on  the  coast. 
On  the  whole,  the  climate  is  merely  tropical,  and  has  certainly  its  dangers  when 
the  necessary  precautions  are  neglected.  For  this  reason  I  do  not  think  that  Central 
Africa,  any  more  than  India,  ever  will  become  a  country  for  European  emigration 
as  America  and  Australia  are.  Tet  a  European  of  good  constitution  is  quite  able 
not  only  to  live  there,  but  also  to  do  for  several  hours  a  day  manual  labour,  without 
injuring  his  health.  We  ought  not  to  judge  the  danger  of  the  African  climate  by 
the  mortality  of  travellers  and  explorers.  They  have  to  live  under  quite  exceptional 
circumstances,  have  to  suffer  many  wants,  and  to  undergo  many  hardships. 

Convenient  dwelling-houses,  with  some  comfort,  regular  work,  and  a  temperate 
way  of  living  are  in  Africa,  as  well  as  everywhere  else,  the  chief  conditions  of  good 
general  health.  As  in  India  and  the  West  Lidies  the  progressive  cultivation  will 
also  improve  the  climate.  Many  of  the  pioneers,  however,  will  have  to  pay  for  this 
improvement  with  their  lives.  The  history  of  the  colonies  of  all  parts  of  the  world 
teaches  us  that  these  sacrifices  must  be  made,  as  an  inexorable  necessity.  As  a 
nucleus  of  African  civilisation,  and  the  result  of  a  most  disinterested  large-minded 
philanthropy,  the  Congo  Free  State  deserves  the  sympathy  of  all  civilised  nations, 
who  are  all  welcome  there,  to  join  in  the  work  of  raising  Africa  to  culture,  and  of 
reaping  its  commercial  advantages. 


648  NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 


NEW  GEOGEAPHIOAL  PUBLICATIONS. 

(By  J.  SooTT  Eeltdb,  Librarian  b.o.b.) 

EUROPE. 
Baddeley,  M.  J.  B.— Thorough  Guide  Series.   Ireland  (Part  I.)  Northern  Countiea 
includiog  Dublin  and  neighbourhood.    Seventeen  maps  and  plans  by  J.  Bartholo- 
mew, F.B.G.B.    London,  Dulau  &  Co.,  1887 :  12mo.,  pp.  xv.  and  165.    Price  4«. 
[Presented  by  Messrs.  Dulau  &  Co.] 

Baedeker,  K— London  and  its  Environs.  Handbook  for  Travellers.  With  3  maps 
and  15  plans.  Sixth  revised  edition.  Leipsic,  Earl  Baedeker ;  London,  Dulau  & 
Co.,  1887 :  12mo.,  pp.  viii.,  340,  and  46.  Price  6».  [Presented  by  Messrs. 
Dulau  &  Co.] 

Southern  Germany  and  Austria,  including  Hungary  and  Transylvania. 

Handbook  for  Travellers.  With  14  maps  and  30  plans.,  Sixth  edition,  revised 
and  augmented.  Leipsic,  Earl  Baedeker;  London,  Dulau  &  Co.,  1887:  12mo., 
pp.  xvi.  and  441.    Price  7«.    [Presented  by  Messrs.  Dulau  &  Co.] 

Jackson,  T.  0. — ^Dalmatia,  the  Quamero,  and  Istria,  with  Cettigne  in  Montenegro 
and  the  Island  of  Grado.  Oxford,  Clarendon  Press,  1887 ;  3  vols.  8vo. ;  vol.  i. 
pp.  xxvi.  and  418 ;  voL  ii.  pp.  vii.  and  397 ;  vol.  iii.  pp.  vii.  and  453.  Price  2L  2s. 
[Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

Although  the  interest  of  this  fine  and  richly  illustrated  work  is  mainly 
antiquarian  and  architectural,  it  abounds  with  topographical  descriptions  and 
details  of  value  to  the  geographical  student.  Many  of  the  towns  and  villages 
in  the  interesting  regions  embraced  by  the  work  are  described  with  considerable 
fulness,  and  the  historical  information  given  will  be  of  service  to  any  one  desirous 
of  tracing  how  far  the  development  of  the  places  referred  to  has  been  dependent 
on  geographical  conditions.  Places  like  Spalato  and  Ragusa,  the  Bocche  di 
Cattaro,  Pola,  Trieste,  and  other  considerable  towns,  come  in  for  detailed  treat- 
ment, while  there  is  much  information  concerning  several  of  the  islands  along 
the  coast. 

liXOLf  A.  C. — ^Die  Balkanhalbinsel  (mit  Ausschluss  von  Griechenland).  Freiburg 
i.  B.,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  x.  and  276,     Price  6«.    (Dulau.) 

This  is  a  useful  systematic  description  of  the  region  included  under  the  title. 
It  deals  in  its  first  section  with  the  physical  geography,  in  the  second  with 
ethnology,  and  in  the  third  with  towns  and  routes.  There  are  numerous 
illustrations  and  a  small  map. 

[Murray,  John.] — A  Handbook  for  Travellers  in  Devonshire.  Tenth  edition^ 
revised.  With  maps  and  plans.  London,  John  Murray,  1887:  post  8vo., 
pp.  xlii.  and  301.    Price  Is.  Qd. 

Ditto  in  Portugal.    A  Complete  Guide  for  Lisbon,  Cintra,  Mafra,  Evora, 

the  British  Battle-fields,  Santarem,  Alcoba9a,  Batalha,  Coimbra,  Bussaco,  Oporto, 
Braga,  Braganpa,  the  Baths  and  Mountain  Passes,  &c.  With  a  short  account 
of  Madeira,  the  Azores,  and  the  Canary  Islands.  Fourth  edition.  With  plans 
of  Lisbon  and  Oporto,  and  a  travelling  map.  London :  John  Murray,  1887 :  post 
8vo.,  pp.  [67]  and  201.    Price  125. 

ASIA. 

Cantley,  N. — Straits  Settlements.  Report  on  the  Forest  Department  for  the  year 
1886.    Singapore,  Government  Printing  Office,  1887 :  folio,  pp.  35. 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUCATIONS.  649 

[Central  Asia.] — Delimitation  Afghane.  N^gociations  entre  la  Bussie  et  la  Grande 
Bretagne  1872-85.  Edition  du  Ministdre  des  Affaires  fitrangkes.  St,  Petersburg, 
1886 :  4to.,  pp.  384.    [Presented  by  M.  Venukoff.] 

This  volome  includes  a  memoir  (in  Bussian)  by  M.  Venukoff.  There  are 
four  maps  illustrating  the  work. 

China. — Imperial  Maritime  Customs.  1.  Statistical  Series :  Nos.  3  and  4.  Betums 
of  Trade  at  the  Treaty  Ports,  and  Trade  Beports,  for  the  year  1886.  Part  I. 
Beport  on  the  Trade  of  China,  and  Abstract  of  Statistics.  Part  II.  Beports  and 
Statistics  for  each  I\>rt.  With  the  Beports  and  Statistics  for  Corea.  Published 
by  order  of  the  Inspector  General  of  Customs.  Shanghai,  published  at  the 
Statistical  Department  of  the  Inspectorate  General  of  Customs,  1887 :  4to.,  pp. 
(Part  I.)  27 ;  (Part  II.)  vi.  and  473. 

The  total  net  imports  into  China  amounted  in  1886  to  87,479,323  Hk.  TIb. 
as  compared  with  88,200,018  Hk.  Tls.  in  1885 ;  and  tho  total  exports  in  1886 
amounted  to  77,206,568  Hk.  Tls.  as  compared  with  65,005,711  Hk.  Tls.  in 
1885.    The  value  of  the  Haikwan  Tael  for  1886  was  5».  \d. 

The  total  value  of  foreign  imports  into  Corea  has  been  in  1886,  2,474,185 
dollars,  as  compared  with  1,671,562  dollars  in  1885 ;  the  total  value  of  exports 
to  foreign  countries  has  been  in  1886,  504,225  dollars,  as  compared  with 
388,023  dollars  in  1885. 

Haig,  [Major-Oen.]  F.  T.— Beport  of  a  Journey  to  the  Bed  Sea  Ports,  Somali- 
land,  and  Southern  and  Eastern  Arabia.  Beprinted  from  the  '  Church  Missionary 
Intelligencer.'  8vo.,  pp.  40.  Price  6J.  [Presented  by  the  Church  Missionary 
Society.] 

AFBICA. 

Bentley,  [Bev.]  W.  Holman. — ^Life  on  the  Congo.  With  an  Introduction  by  the 
Bev.  George  GrenfelL  London,  Beligious  Tract  Society,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  124. 
Price  1«.  6c?.    [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

This  is  a  trustworthy  and  useful  little  volume,  containing  in  brief  space  a 
summary  of  what  we  know  of  the  Congo  region.  It  deals  with  the  discovery  of 
the  Congo,  physical  features,  vegetation,  chmate,  and  people  ;  home  life  on  the 
Congo ;  religious  ideas  of  the  natives ;  cannibalism,  freemasonry,  and  charms ; 
missions  in  Central  Africa  and  on  the  Congo.  There  are  a  considerable  number 
of  illustrations  and  a  small  map. 

Fallot,  Ernest. — Par  de1&  la  M^iterran^e. — Kabylie,  Aur^,  Eroumerie.    Paris, 

Plon  [1887] :  8vo.,  pp.  3  and  307.    Price  Zs,    (Dulau.) 
Yignon,  Louis.— La  France  dans  TAfrique  du  Nord, — ^Alg^rie  et  Tunisie.     Paris, 

Guillaumin  et  Cie.,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  v.  and  290.    Price  6«.  Bd,    (^Dulau,) 
Bernard  [Doctenr].— L'Algerie  Qui  S*en  Va.    Paris,  Plon  [1887],  8vo.,  pp.  388. 

Price  3«.    (Dulau,) 
Lanessan,  J.-L.  [Del— La  Tunisie.    Paris,  Alcan,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  268.    Price 
3s.  9d.    CDtdau,) 

These  four  volumes  are  all  the  result  of  the  increased  interest  aroused  in 
French  possessions  in  North  Africa,  since  the  annexation  of  Tunis.  M.  Fallot, 
Secretary  of  the  Geographical  Society  of  Marseilles,  made  a  run  over  Algiers  in 
1884.  He  has  some  useful  notes  on  his  visit  to  Kabylia,  the  Aurds  Mountains, 
and  the  Kroumir  country. 

M.  Vignon,  a  former  official  of  the  French  Colonial  Office,  has  been  making 
a  special  study  of  the  French  colonies.  His  present  volume  is  a  systematic 
and  critical  investigation  into  French  colonial  enterprise  in  the  north  of 
Africa.  He  compares  the  progress  of  Algeria  with  that  of  Australia,  not  by 
any  means  to  the  advantage  of  the  former.  Between  1830  and  1886  Algeria 
cost  France  over  4764  million  francs,  while  the  Treasury  receipts  in  Algeria 


650 


l^EW  GEOGRAPHICiX  PCTBUCATIOXS. 


amouDted  to  only  1,161,612^000  francs.  Among  the  questions  discussed  in 
detail  by  M.  Vignou  are  acclimatifiAlion  and  immigration  ;  the  land  qiiestion ; 
the  resources  of  the  country ;  commerce ;  public  works  ;  credit ;  admi lustration. 
Altogether,  while  he  thinks  that  France  has  a  heavy  task  before  her  in  the 
development  of  the  country,  he  believes  she  ia  quite  eipial  to  it, 

Dr,  Bernavd'fl  volume  is  a  sketchy  but  interestingly  written  account  of  a 
visit  to  this  country,  without  any  dates. 

M,  Lauessao,  the  author  of  an  able  work  od  the  Colonial  Expansion  of 
France,  gi^'es  in  his  *La  Tunisie'  a  systematic  description  of  the  country  in  its 
various  aspects-  He  treats  in  succession  of  the  soil,  climate,  and  pt^pulation  ; 
indigenouij  and  Euro[>eau  agriculture  and  industrj^;  mioes  and  marble  quarries; 
the  commercial  situation ;  taxe^  and  customs;  means  uf  communication  ;  public 
works ;  and  necessary  reforms,  A  small  map  ia  appended,  ahowing  the  area  of 
forests  and  the  limits  of  agriculture. 

A^IEBICA. 

Etss,  C.  WasMngion. — Jamaica  at  the  Royal  Jubilee  Exhibition,  Liverpool, 
1687.  London,  *Six>ttiawoode  &  Co.,  1887:  8vOt>  pp.  91,  map  and  portraits. 
[Presented  by  C.  Washington  Even,  Esq.] 

Petitot,  Esdle. — ^Les  Grands  Esquimaux.  Paris,  Plon,  1887  :  8vo.,  pp,  vi.and  307. 
Price  3s. 

Tliis  is  only  a  small  instalment  of  the  narrative  of  Abbd  Petitot's  twenty 
years*  sojourn  among  the  Eskimo  and  Indians  of  British  North  America.  It 
refers  to  a  winter  jouroey  in  1805  to  the  Eskimo  at  tbe  mouth  of  tlie  Anderson 
river,  and  to  his  summer  journeys  in  18US  and  1S77  to  the  |>eople  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Mackenzie  river,  esi>ecially  around  Fort  Macphersoo.  While  on  both 
journeys  he  made  valuable  observations  on  the  geograpny  of  the  country  through 
w^hich  he  passed,  and  is  able  to  cc»rrect  and  add  to  exir^ting  information,  the 
main  value  of  AbWs  Petitot^s  narrative  lies  in  the  extremely  interesting  details 
h©  gives  concerning  the  Eskimo  among  whom  ho  sojourned,  their  physique, 
their  manners,  their  mode  of  life,  and  tbeir  language.  He  writes  unreserv^ly 
concerning  his  Eskimo  friends,  so  much  so  that  he  states  in  the  preface  that  hia 
volume,  •'  N*est  jx^int  destine  il  la  jeunesse.*'  There  is  a  good  map  (1 ;  2,100^000) 
to  illustrate  the  Abbe***  iourncya. 


AUSTRALIA. 

[ATlfitralia.] ^Manual  of  Physical  Geography  of  Austmlia.  By  H.  Beresford 
Be  la  Pot^rWall,  m,a.  Melbourne,  18832  12mo.j  pp.  viii.  and  194.  [Presented 
by  the  Author,] 

Victoria,     Geo!og:y   aud   Physical    Geography,  by  Reginald  A,  F.  Murray, 
Geological  Surveyor  for  the  Department    of  Mine?,      Melbourne,  1887 :   8vo., 

.     pp.  iv.  and  179,     [Presented  by  the  Mining  Department.] 

ilr.  WalFs  book  is  a  welcome  stimmary  of  the  leading  facts  of  the  physical 
geography  of  AustraUs,  so  far  as  these  are  known.  It  seems  to  be  written  witk 
knowledge  and  judgment.  It  deals  with  the  great  featurea  of  the  continent  in 
Buccessive  chapters — relitif,  plains  and  tablelands,  niountains,  oceans,  rivers, 
lakes^  &c.  There  is  a  chapter  on  climatology,  in  which  Mr.  Wall  gives  a  very 
fair  statement  as  to  minfall.  "  It  has  been  a  favourite  s[ieculation/*  he  tells  us, 
"  to  endeavour  to  draw  from  fitatistics  a  theory  of  ]>eriodicity ;  but  nearly  all  the 
theories  have  been  given  up  as  contrary  to  extendwl  exi^ericoce.  If  there  be 
such  a  thing  as  a  drought  period  at  all,  it  mast  be  one  of  great  length — 
probably  one  of  between  fifty  and  sixty  years.**  There  are  separate  chapters  on 
the  flora^  fauna,  and  geology, 

Mr.  Murray's  hook  is  mainly  geological,  but  there  is  much  in  it  which  the 
geographer  will  lind  useful.  It  may  be  accepted  as  an  authoritative  and 
trustworthy  treatise  on  the  geology  of  Yictoria. 


K£W  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUCATIONS.  651 

OCEANIA. 

Clmrcliwafd,  William  B.— My  Consulate  in  Samoa:  a  Record  of  Four  Years 
Sojourn  in  the  Navigators  Islands ;  with  Personal  Experiences  of  King  Malietoa 
Laupepa,  his  Country,  and  his  Men.  London,  E.  Bentley  and  Son,  1887 ;  8vo., 
pp.  xii.  and  403.    Price  15«.    [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

This  volume  does  not  in  any  way  pretend  to  be  scientific,  being  simply  a 
record  of  actual  experieuces  during  a  four  years'  official  residence  amongst  the 
Samoans.  Much  useful  information  is  given  regarding  the  Samoan  Islands, 
the  author  devoting  a  separate  chapter  to  a  description  of  the  whole  group.  He 
has  also  much  to  tell  us  about  the  people  themselves — their  character,  manners 
and  customs,  sports,  and  the  results  which  have  followed  the  introduction  of 
Christianity.  Mr.  Churchward  also  narrates  many  incidents  which  happened 
during  his  consulate,  which  help  to  make  the  book  an  interesting  one.  The 
addition  of  an  index  and  a  map  would  have  added  greatly  to  its  value. 

GENERAL. 

A  Manual  of  Scientific  Enquiry ;  prepared  for  the  use  of  Officers  in  Her  Majesty's 
Navy  and  Travellers  in  general.  Originally  edited  by  Sir  John  F.  W.  Herschel, 
Bart.  Fifth  edition.  Edited  by  Sir  Robert  S.  Ball,  ll.d.,  f.b.8.,  Royal  Astronomer 
of  Ireland.  London,  Eyre  Ss  Spottiswoode,  1886:  sm.  8vo.,  pp.  xiL  and  450 
charts.    Price  2».  6d,    [Presented  by  the  Hydrographer  of  the  Admiralty.] 

In  this  edition  many  of  the  articles  have  been  entirely  re-written.  The  fol- 
lowing is  a  list  of  the  contents  of  the  work : — I.  Astronomy  by  Sir  G.  B.  Airy, 
K.C.B.,  F.B.8. ;  II.  Hydrography,  by  Captain  W.  J.  L.  Wharton,  B.N.,  f.b.8., 
Hydrographer  of  the  Admiralty ;  III.  Tides,  by  Prof.  George  H.  Darwin,  ll.d., 
F.B.S. ;  I Y .  Terrestrial  Magnetism,  by  Prof.  George  F.  Fitzgerald,  F.B.S.,  assisted 
by  Staff-Commander  Creak,  b.n.,  f.b.8.,  and  G.  M.  Whipple,  Esq.,  b.80.  ; 
V.  Meteorology,  by  Robert  H.  Scott,  Esq.,  f.b.8.  ;  VI.  Geography,  by  Gen.  Sir 
Henry  Lefroy,  B.A.,  f.b.8.,  f.b.g.8.  ;  VII.  Anthropology,  by  Edward  B.  Tylor, 
Esq.,  D.C.L.,  F.B.8. ;  VIIL  Statistics,  by  Prof.C.  F.  Bastable,  M.A.;  IX.  Medical 
Statistics,  by  William  Aitken,  Esq.,  M.D.,  f.b.8.  ;  X.  Geology,  by  Prof.  Archi- 
bald Geikic,  f.r.8.  ;  XL  Mineralogy,  by  Prof.  W.  J.  Sollas,  d.8C.  ;  XII.  Seismo- 
logy, by  Thomas  Gray,  Esq.,  b.8C.,  f.b.8.e.  ;  XIII.  Zoology,  by  Prof.  H.  N. 
Moseley,  f.b.8.  ;  XIV.  Botany,  by  Sir  J.  D.  Hooker,  k.o.8.1.,  f.b.8. 

Berlin,  Dorothea.— Erinnemngen  an  Gustav  Nachtigal.  Berlin,  Paetel,  1887: 
8vo.,  pp.  vii.  and  232.    Price  5«.    (DtUau.) 

This  little  volume  consists  mainly  of  extracts  from  the  late  Dr.  Nachtigal's 
private  correspondence.  Besides  containing  interesting  notes  on  the  incidents 
of  his  African  journeys,  they  bring  out,  as  Fran  Berlin  intended,  the  leading 
featiires  of  the  man's  noble  character. 

Jolly,  William.— The  Realistic  Teaching  of  Geography.  London,  Blackie  &  Son : 
8vo.,  pp.  vi.  and  56.    Price  1».    [Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 

Mr.  Jolly,  one  of  Her  Majesty's  Inspectors,  and  himself  an  old  and 
eminently  successful  teacher,  has  here  given  many  hints  that  ought  to  be  of 
real  service  in  the  teaching  of  elementary  geography.  There  is  nothing  par- 
ticularly new,  but  Mr.  Jolly  has  arranged  his  hints  methodically  and  expressed 
them  clearly  and  vigorously.  In  making  use  of  the  simple  arrangements  for 
the  realistic  teachiug  of  geography  which  he  suggests,  the  teacher  should  be  on 
his  guard  not  to  convey  erroneous  ideas  to  young  pupils.  In  building  up 
features  with  sand  or  clay,  e.  g.,  take  care  that  the  pupil  does  not  get  the  idea 
that  nature  builds  after  the  fashion  of  the  teacher.  We  should  think  also  that 
much  caution  must  be  observed  in  using  toy  houses,  horses,  carriages,  and  similar 
things  to  illustrate  the  work  of  man  on  the  fiaoe  of  the  earth.  But  any  method, 
however  perfect,  is  liable  to  abuse,  if  the  teacher  is  not  master  of  his  subject  and 
is  devoid  of  common  sense. 


652 


KEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 


LucaSi  C«  P. — Introduction  to  an  Historictil  Geo^phy  of  the  Britiah  Coloniea, 
Oxford,  Ckrendoa  Press:  1887,  8 va,  pp.  xiL  and  142,  Price  is,  6d,  [Presented 
by  tbe  Publiabers.] 

This  is  the  first  volume  of  what  onght  to  be  a  nsefiil  work.  The  succeeding 
vohimcs,  the  author  teUs  us,  will  be  more  purely  geographical  tliao  tbepreseat, 
and  will  deal  with  the  sepirate  divisions  of  the  empire,  Mr,  Lucas*s  posLlion 
in  the  Colonial  Office  gives  him  exceptional  opportunities  of  obtaining  certaia 
kinds  of  information.  In  the  present  volume  he  di&cuases  certain  preliminary 
<tnestions  of  much  interest.  In  bis  first  chapter  he  tries  to  settle  what  a  colony 
really  is.  The  second  chapter  deals  ^itb  motives  for  colonisation,  which  he 
thinks  are  four — love  of  adventure,  desire  of  wealth,  political  and  social  discon- 
tent, and  religion.  In  the  following  chapter  Mr,  Lucas  deals  with  the  subjects 
of  climate  and  race ;  modes  of  coloniising  and  kinds  of  colonies ;  nations  which 
have  colonised,  ancient  and  modem ;  English  colonisjition ;  and  changes  in  the 
English  colonieB  during  the  llJth  century.  The  volume  contains  eight  page 
maps. 

HuTf  ay,  Kenrie  B.^ — Commercial  Geography^  considered  especially  in  ita  relation 
to  Kew  Markets  and  Fields  of  Production  for  British  Trade.  London,  Thomas 
C.  Jack,  [1887] ;  8vo.,  pp.  viii.  and  298.    Price  2s.  M. 

This  is  not  a  text-book  of  commercial  geography,  but  rather,  as  its  secondary 
title  indicates^  a  collection  of  statistics  and  other  data  bearing  on  undevelope^^l 
fields  for  British  commerce,  Mr.  Murray  very  strangely  maintains  that  com- 
mercial geography  has  nothing  to  do  with  old-established  States,  but  only  with 
uncivilised  or  recently  settled  countries.  TJvis  appears  a  very  narrow  view 
to  take  of  the  field  of  commercial  geography^  which,  by  the  bye,  can  hardly  be 
termed  a  "  science "  All  Europe  is  included  and  the  United  States,  while 
cx>tuiiderabIo  space  is  devoted  to  our  colonies.  So  far  aa  it  goes,  the  book  la  a 
useful  Oul lection  of  facts, 

HamEaim,  [Br.]  Edmimd. — Die  Erscheinuugen  dcs  Erdmagnetismus  in  ihrer 
Abhiingigkeit  voni  Bau  der  Erdriode.  Stuttgart,  Ferdinand  Euke,  1887  ;  8vo., 
pp.  78,     [Presented  by  the  Author,] 

KnrsingTOW,  A.  T. — Gr.  V,  Juggarow  observatory,  Daba  Gardens,  Vizagapatam. 
Beaults  of  Meteorological  Observations,  188G.  With  an  Introduction  containing 
Astronomical  Observations  and  ihe  Explanation  of  the  Reported  Results,  Calcutta, 
T backer,  Spink  &  Co.,  1887  :  12 mo,,  i>p.  167,  plates.  [Presented  by  the  Author.] 
f  enck,  [Dr.]  Albrecht*— tJeber  Denudation  der  Erdoberflache.— Die  alte  EheLn- 
gletscher  anf  den  Alpcnvorlande. — Der  Ausbnicb  des  Tarawera  und  Rotomahana 
auf  Neu-Seeland. — Die  Hottinger  Breccie. — Bericht  iiber  eine  gemeinsame  Excur* 
sion  in  den  Buhmerwald,     [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

The  first  of  these  pamphlets  by  one  of  the  moat  eminent  of  the  younger 
geographers  of  Germany,  is  a  lecture  delivered  to  the  Vienna  Society  for  Qi© 
Advancement  of  Scientific  Knowledige.  It  is  an  instructive  and  suggestive  sum- 
mary of  facts  bearing  on  the  very  important  geographical  subject  of  denudation. 
The  other  pamphlets  are  reprints  of  papers,  mostly  short,  from  various  aerials, 
and  are  mostly  of  a  geological  character, 

Beade,  T,  Mellard. — The  Origin  of  Mountain  Ranges,  considered  experimentally, 
structurally,  dynamically,  and  in  relation  to  their  geological  liistory.  London, 
Taylor  and  Francis,  1886 :  8vo.,  pp.  xviii,  and  359.     Price  21«. 

Mr,  Me  Hard  Reade  has  done  service  in  keeping  alive  a  discuasiou  on  the 
origin  and  formation  of  mountaias.  F«w,  we  should  think,  are  likely  to  accept 
his  theory,  and  for  the  geographer,  the  chief  value  of  his  work  will  be  the  vast 
amount  of  information  he  has  collected  bearing  on  these  most  important  features 
of  the  earth's  surface.  What  Mr.  Eeade*a  theory  is,  may  be  stated  nearly  in  his 
own  wonls.  Mountain  mnges,  according  to  him,  are  ridgings  up  of  the  earth's 
crust,  which  lake  place  only  in  areas  of  great  fiedimentatlon.     The  inciting 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUCATIONS.  66S 

cause  of  the  various  horizontal  and  vertical  strains  ending  in  the  birth  of  a 
mountain  range,  is  the  rise  of  the  isogeotherms  and  consequent  increase  of 
temperature  of  the  new  sedimentaries,  and  that  portion  of  the  old  crust  that 
they  underlie.  The  rise  of  isogeotherms,  the  direct  result  of  sedimentation,  by 
a  series  of  reactions  detailed  in  Uie  body  of  the  work,  evidently,  in  Mr.  Beade's 
conception,  produces  an  accumulated  temperature  much  in  excess  of  its  normal 
effect.  The  rise  of  temperature,  Mr.  Reade  tells  us,  exerts  a  tendency  to  expand 
the  new  sedimentaries  in  every  direction,  in  proportion  to  their  extent  and  mass. 
The  tendency  to  expand  horizontally  is  checked  by  the  mass  of  the  earth's  crust 
bounding  the  locally  heated  area.  The  expanding  mass  is  therefore  forced  to 
expend  its  energies  within  itself;  hence  arise  those  foldings  of  lengthening  strata, 
repacking  of  iSds,  reversed  faults,  ridging  up  and  elevating  movements  which 
occur  in  varied  forms,  according  to  the  conditions  present  in  each  case. 

In  other  words,  Mr.  Reade  tells  us,  all  the  phenomena  of  mountain-building 
are  the  result  of  local  variations  in  temperature  of  the  earth's  crust,  caused  by  the 
reaction  of  surface  influences  on  the  heated  interior.  Every  rise  of  temperature, 
whatever  its  amount,  in  the  locus  of  a  mountain-chain  tends  to  elevation  and 
permanent  ridging  up  by  a  lateral  displacement  of  materials.  Every  fall  of 
temperature  produces  a  proportionate  vertical  subsidence  of  the  surface  over  the 
district  affected,  but  as  the  materials  laterally  ridged  up  in  mountain  ranges 
by  expansion  cannot  be  drawn  back  again  during  contraction,  there  remains  a 
permanent  total  of  uplift  in  the  range  with  every  rise  of  temperature,  that  can 
only  be  removed  by  atmospheric  denudation.  In  this  way  mountain  ranges 
become  permanent  features  of  the  earth's  surface,  notwithstanding  the  vicissi- 
tudes of  the  larger  areal  subsidences  and  elevations  that  take  place,  and  the 
subsidences  due  to  faulting.  Such  is  Mr.  Reade's  theory  of  mountain-building, 
criticism  of  which  must  be  left  to  the  geologists  and  the  physicists. 

Soundings  taken  by  the  India  Rubber,  Gutta  Percha,  and  Telegraph  Works  Company, 
Limited.  1885-1887.  Havana— Key  West  Expedition,  1885.  Second  West 
African  Expedition,  1886  and  1886.  Havana— Key  West  Expedition,  1886. 
Congo  Repairs  Expedition,  1887.  8vo.,  pp.  23.  [Presented  by  the  India  Rubber, 
Gutta  Percha,  and  Telegraph  Works  Company,  Limited.] 

[TTniyersal  Geography.] — Unser  Wissen  von  der  Erde.  Allgemeine  Erdkunde 
und  Landerkundc,  herausgegeben  unter  fachmannischer  Mitwirkung  von  Alfred 
Kirchhoff.  Erster  Band :  Allgemeine  Erdkunde  von  Dr.  F.  Hann,  Dr.  F.  von 
Hochstetten  und  Dr.  A.  Pokomy.  Leipzig,  Freytag,  1886 :  imp.  8vo.,  pp.  xxiL 
and  985.    Price  46«. 

Landerkunde  von  Erdteils  Europa,  herausgegeben  unter  fachmSnnischer 
Mitwirkung  von  Alfred  Kirchhoff.  In  2  Teilen.  Erster  Teil,  erste  H&lfte: 
Europa  im  allgemeinen  von  Prof.  Dr.  A.  Kirchhoff. — Physikalische  Skizze  von 
Mittel-Europa,  von  Prof.  Dr.  A.  Penck. — Das  Deutsche  Reich,  von  Prof.  Dr.  A. 
Penck.  Leipzig,  Freytag,  1887 :  imp.  8vo.,  pp.  x.  and  618.  [Presented  by  the 
Publisher.] 

These  are  the  first  two  volumes  of  a  great  work,  well  begun.  One  naturally 
compares  it  at  first  with  Reclus'  well-known  *  GiSographie  Universelle,'  and  indeed 
Prof.  Kirchhoff,  the  editor  of  the  whole,  in  the  preface  makes  the  comparison  him- 
self. It  is  not  intended,  however,  according  to  the  preface,  to  make  this  GFerman 
woik  so  extensive  as  the  French  one,  but  so  far  as  we  can  judge  from  the 
volumes  before  us,  and  from  the  space  which  will  be  devoted  to  Europe,  there 
is  not  hkely  to  be  much  difference  in  extent.  The  apparent  difference  between  , 
these  two  publications  is  that  while  M.  Reclus  is  entirely  responsible  for  his 
work,  that  edited  by  Professor  Kirchhoff  will  be  the  production  of  a  number  of 
specialists.  At  the  same  time,  it  eiiould  be  remembered  that  in  each  section  of 
his  work  M.  Reclus  has  also  the  aid  of  men  who  have  special  knowledge  of  the 
particular  regions  dealt  with.  While  M.  Reclus  is  above  all  descriptive,  it 
seems  to  us  from  these  two  volumes  that  Professor  Kirchhoff  and  his  colleagues 
p  romise  to  be  markedly  scientific,  while  by  no  means  neglecting  description. 


654 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PlTBLlCATlOXS. 


They  will  include  both  landerkuttde  and  Erdbeachntbunff,  This  is  especially 
seen  in  the  second  vokmie,  devoted  mostly  to  Gennauy,  and  written  by  Professor 
Penck  of  Vienna,  who  justly  enjoys  among  hia  coUeagucis  a  high  reputation  as 
a  scientific  geographer.  He  constaiitly  seeks  to  discover  the  relations  wliich 
exist  between  physical  coDtlitiona  and  human  development.  This  will  be  Been, 
for  instance,  in  his  treatment  of  some  of  the  old  towns  of  Southern  Germany, 
whose  position  and  growth  have  many  of  them  been  detennined  by  physi<il 
conditions  ;  in  the  case  of  some,  it  must  be  admitted,  their  eminence  was  du© 
to  other  circumBtanceii  as  well,  but  the  geographical  position  must  first  of  all  be 
favourable* 

The  first  volume  of  this  serieii  may  l>e  regarded  as  introductory,  somewhat 
analogous  to  Reclus'  '  The  Earth  *  and  *  The  Ocean.*  It  is,  indeed,  an  elaborate 
treatise  on  physical  geography,  in  which  the  separate  scieaces  on  which  that 
deimrtment  of  geography  is  based  receive  detailed  treatment.  The  work,  it 
should  be  remembered,  is  not  meant  for  geographical  special ist«,  but  rather  for 
the  educated  public,  the  teacher,  and  the  student ;  hence  thero  is  some  excuse 
for  devoting  so  much  space  to  geology  and  biology,  a  fair  knowledge  of  w^hich, 
it  must  be  admitted,  is  essential  to  the  IhoroughgoiDg  student  of  geography. 

The  first  part  of  the  general  volume  deals  with  Astronomical  and  Physical 
Geography,  by  Dr,  Hann,  the  well-known  Auetrian  meteorologist.  This 
includes  sectloos  on  the  earth  as  a  planet,  terreatrial  magnetism,  the  atmospherct 
and  the  hydrosphere.  Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  **  physical  geography  "  is  used 
here  in  a  somewhat  narrow  sense,  and  really  ought  to  include  a  considerable 
portion  of  what  follows.  The  second  part,  for  example,  deals  with  the  solid 
crust  in  its  composition,  its  structure  aud  its  growth,  by  the  late  Dr.  F*  von 
Hochstetter.  This  includes  sections  on  physiography,  petrography,  and  tec- 
tonics, temperature  of  the  crust  and  the  interior,  dynamical  geology  or  the  fbroe* 
at  work  to  modify  the  surface,  and  historical  geology  or  stratigraphy  and 
paLfiontology.  The  third  part,  by  Dr*  Alois  Pokoroy,  deals  with  biological 
gec^raphy  or  the  earth  as  the  dwelling-place  of  orgauic  life.  Thus,  as  wo  have 
said,  this  first  volume  is  rather  a  series  of  separate  treatises  on  the  sciences 
related  to  geography  than  a  connected  geographical  whole.  From  a  purely 
geographical  point  of  view  the  second  volume  seems  to  us  more  satisfactory  than 
the  first.  After  an  introduction  of  eighty  pages  by  Professor  Kirchhoff,  giving  a 
very  clear  account  of  Europe  in  general.  Professor  Penck  follows  with  a  physical 
sketch  of  Central  Euro^)©,  in  which  he  traces  its  development  during  the  three 
great  geological  periotls— Palaaozoic,  Mesozoic,  aud  Cainojsoic;  followed  by 
actions  on  the  evolution  of  its  climate,  on  the  glacial  period,  and  on  the  intro- 
duction of  man  into  Europe.  Dr.  Penck  insists,  and  rightly,  that  a  sharp  line 
must  bo  drawn  between  Central  Europe  and  Mediterranean  Euroj^e,  in  accord- 
ance with  the  evolution  of  the  two  regions.  The  former  owes  its  present 
physiognomy  to  the  **  transgression  "  of  the  ocean,  the  latter  to  the  ingreasion 
of  the  sea,  and  their  present  condition  is  only  one  phase  in  a  process  of  evolution 
still  at  work,  the  end  of  which  cannot  be  foreseen,  since  its  origin  is  unknown. 
These  two  sections  occupy  only  110  pages,  the  rest  of  the  600  pagcij  being 
devoted  bo  Germany.  Professor  Penck'a  method  and  principles  of  treatment 
may  be  learnt  from  the  headings  of  his  various  chapters.  The  first  cliapter 
deals  with  the  physical  geography  of  the  northern  face  of  the  Alps  and  the 
neighbouring  tableland  from  which  it  springs.  The  two  succeeding  chapters 
deal  with  the  formation  and  structure  of  the  German  Alpine  borderland  and  its 
anthropogcography.  Three  chapters  are  devoted  to  the  ]>hysical  geography,  the 
formation,  aud  the  anthropogeography  of  the  south-^vestern  region  of  Germany. 
After  the  same  manner  Professor  Penck  successively  treats  of  the  Central 
German  mountain  region  or  hilly  tableland,  the  northern  circumvallatton  of 
Bohemia,  and  the  Korth  German  plain.  The  volume  concludes  with  a  brief 
view  of  the  empire  as  a  whole.  The  volumes  abound  with  the  most  beautiful 
and  appropriate  illustrations,  diagrams,  and  maps.  The  picture,  however^  at 
p.  277,  is  an  unfortunate  misrepresentation  of  the  island  of  Staffa. 


: 


NEW  MAPS.  666 


NEW  MAPS. 
(By  J.  CoLKSy  Map  Owator  B.a.sO 

EUBOPE. 

Berlin  tind  Potsdam. — Spezialkarte  der  Umgegend  von .    Scale  1 : 6,000  or 

12*2  inches  to  a  geographical  mile.  Jul  Straube.  Nebst  alphabetische  Namens* 
Verzeichniss.    Berlin,  Straube.    Price  2b,    (Dulau.) 

Enrop&iselie  Orient — Der .    Scale  1 : 1,200,000  or  16 '4  geographical  miles 

to  an  inch.  Nach  den  neuesten  Quellen  bearbeitet  und  heransgegeben  vom  k.  k. 
militar  geographischen  Institute  in  Wien,  1887.  4  sheets.  Price  7«.  6d, 
(Duiau,) 

This  ;is  a  very  neatly  executed  map  of  the  Balkan  Peninsula  and  Grecian 
archipelago.  The  heights,  which  are  given  in  metres,  are  also  indicated  by 
dififercnt  shades  of  drab,  varying  with  each  500  metres,  except  in  the  lower 
altitudes  and  places  which  are  at,  or  below,  sea-leveL  In  addition  to  the 
explanation  of  the  signs  and  symbols  used  in  the  constrnction  of  the  map,  a 
table  is  given  containing  explanatory  notes  with  reference  to  the  abbreviations 
of  names  and  their  signification  in  Grerman. 

Le  Havre  et  ses  Environs,  par  L.  Leblanc.    Nouveau  plan  de  1887.    Le  Havre. 

Price  1».    (Dulau.) 
Mittel  nnd  Siidbayem,  Hordtyrol,  Salzburg.— Reliefkarte  von ,  nebst  den 

angrenzenden  Gebieten.    Scale  1 :  600,000  or  6*8  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

Augsburg,  Lampart's  Alpiner  Verlag.    Price  5».    (Dtdau,) 

Mnnchen. —  Neuesten  Plan  von  ,     Scale   1:10,000  or  7*2  inches   to   a 

geographical  mile,  von  Jul.  Straube.  Nebst  Verzeichniss  der  Strassen  und  Platze. 
Mdnchen,  Mey  and  Widmayer.    Price  Is,    (^Dulau,) 

Oesterreich-TIngam. — ^Verkdirskarte  von  —  und  den  angrenzenden  Landem 
von  Kussland  und  der  europaischen  Turkei.  Scale  1 :  250,000  or  17  *  1  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.  Nach  amtliche  Quellen  bearbeitet.  6  sheets.  Berlin,  B^liner 
Lithographischen  Institut.    Price  5ff.    {DtUau,) 

Sachsen. — Greologischen  Spezialkarte  der  Konigreich  .    Scale  1 :  25,000  or 

2*9  inches  to  a  geographical  mile.  Heransgegeben  vom  Finanz-Ministerium. 
Bearbeitet  imter  der  Leitung  von  Hermann  Credner.  Sect.  142,  mit  ErlSutenmgen 
enthaltend  Plauen-Oclsnitz.  Geologische  Aufnahme  von  E.  Weise  und  Th.  Liebe. 
Die  Erzgange  von  H.  Mtiller.    Leipzig,  Engelmann.    Price  3«.    (DtiZati.) 

Schweiz. —  Reisekarte    der  ,  von    H.    Keller.     Scale  1:400,000    or    5 '6 

geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  ZiLrich,  Heinrich  Keller's  Geograph.  Verlag.  Price 
6s.  folded  and  mounted.    (Dulau,) 

ORDNANCE  SUBVEY  MAPS. 

Publications  iasned  during  the  month  of  Angost  188T. 
l-inoh— General  Maps  :— 

Ekglakd  akd  Walks  :  New  Series.    Kos.  lOY  (ontUne),  110  (oatline).  If.  each.  ' 
6-incli— Comity  Maps:— 

EsQhAiTD  Aim  Walss;  BedforcUhlre :  22  S.E.,  27  S.W.,  30  N.W.;  If.  esch.  Oaxnbridffe- 
shire:  5S.W.,29S.W.;i«.each.  Deronsbire:  13S.E.;  i«.  DorsetshlM :  5 S.E., 24£E., 
33  S.E. ;  It.  each,  aionoestershire :  M  S.W.;  it.  Iiinoolzishire :  38  S.E.,  Ys  N.W^N.IL, 
142  S.B.,  144  N.W.,  146  aw.,  147  N.E.;  If.  each.  Uerionetlialiire :  6  8.W. :  if.  Nozfolk : 
52  N.W.;  It.  Somersetshire:  83  SJ:.;  if.  Staffordshire:  3i  K.E..  65  S.W.,74  N.W.; 
It.  each.  Warwiokshire :  6  &W.,  21  N.W.,  S.W.;  If.  each.  Wiltshire:  23;  21.  6(1. 
Worcestershire:  8  N.W.  j  if. 


656 


NEW  MAPS. 


26-tiicli— Piirlih  Mnpii—  ^ 

ExoLAKD  AKP  'VVJiLZfl:  BreokiiockBlilTe !   XXXTUI.  9,  6,  Ss.  neb.    Cam1>ridi?«abire ; 

kXXVII.  1,  6.  4#.  each  ;  XXXI.  10,  5*.;  XXXI.  13»  14,  XXXV.  2.  3t.  each;  XXXV,  3,  9.  4*.  eoih; 
XXXV.  10,  3jr.;  XXXV.  11,  H,  IB,  4j.  aicli;  XXXIX.  3,  B,  6,  B,  9»  10.  12,  13,  U.  15,  XL.  3,XLVI, 
1,  3,  LIT,  lU  I'i,  16,  i»,  HIL  ».  3#.  Mch.  Cardlg^nshird!  VJll.  12.  3*.  Carmarthdn- 
Bhire:  XXVL  9,  3a.;  XXXIV.  s,  4*.  Bevonahire :  XIX.  13,  XXX.  3,  7,  XCIX.  i«,CXTI,  3. 
4.  t,  n,  CXIII.  IB,  CXIV.  4,  3*.  each  j  CXIV,  7,  4f.;  CXIV.  12. 15,  CXXVI.  5,  6. 11, 12, 15, 16,3*.  cnch. 
JDoTsetslilre :  HI.  lo,  3*.  Gloucestershire :  XXVLie,  3f,  HerefordaMr© :  XIL  9. 
4*  ;  XIK  10,  34.1  ^11-  12,  13.  4*.;  XII.  16,  XX.  9,  XXIV.  12,  XXVL<>,  10.  XXV!1L4,  XXXII.  3,  4, 
ai.cKihj  XXXH.  7,  «#,;  XXXill.  2,  31.;  XXXIH.  3.4*.;  XXXITL  6.3*.;  XXXlli.  8.  4i.  i  XXXJV. 
c,  31.  HuatiuedonshiTe :  XX.  12,  le,  Lieicestershire:  Lll.  3,  4,  8.  3*.  each.  Are* 
Book:  Kav<»i]i^ti.iie  And  Sjiil^ston,  U.  Lin oolu shire r  XU.  y,  XX.  1.  3«.  e*ch;  XLV,  12,  8#.  «<i,i 
LXI.  15,  LXni.  9.  3#.  tach ;  LXXI.  5,  4 J,  \  LXXL  10.  LXXVH,  5, 3i.  each ;  CL.  3, 4*.;  CL.T.CLI,  1, 
CLI.  2,  3*.  each.  Montgomeryshire:  XL  le.  4*.;  XVL  IB,  XXVL  9,  11,  13.  XL VI,  law 
34.  curb.  Norfolk:  IL  lO,  3ji  ;  11.  U,  4j,;  VUL  3,  5*.,  XXXIL  3,  16,  XL.  S,  LVL  T,  IB,  l«^ 
4#.  cacb;  LXIX.  lo,  3*.;  LXIX.  N.  4*.  NorthamptonshLre :  VUL  3,  4i.  Area  Btxjksj 
St.  GUe»  (N  wtliflmptmi).  St.  I'eter  (NLrtbaroptou),  U,  catL  K  Ot  tin  g^h  am  shire  t  XXVL  5,  3*. 
Butlandshire :  3L  i,  3/. ;  X.  3. as,*,  X.  T, 3t.  Somersetshire:  LXXil.  2,  3,  b,  4t.  cAch; 
LXXIL  fl,  3*.i  LXXIL T,  4«. ;  LXXIL  9,  a*.;  LXXIL  10,  4i.;  LXXIL  14.  15,  3*.  each  j  LXXIL  16» 
LXXXIL9,10,  LXXXIII.  4. 44, each;  LXX.MV.  4, 3*.;  LXXXIX,  7,4*.  Staffordshire:  LXIl* 
B,  6*.  Suffolk:  XL  6,  4*.;  XX.  10.  5».;  LXX.  12,  3*.;  LXXXV.  4,  4*.  Warwickshire: 
XXIII.  3,  4,  6.  7,  H,  10,  3*.  each  ;  XXilL  14.  4*. ;  XXVIL  2,fi,3*.cach;  XXXL  7,  XXXIL  6,  4*. each; 
XX xn.  1, 3,  IB,  XXXIV.  10,  LI  IL  3,  e^  3*,  rtcb,  Wiltshire :  xxnil.  7,  h,  XLVHL  »,  LL  \^ 
LVTL  1,  7,  Id,  11,  13,  16.  3f.  i^ach,  Worcestershire:  XXIV*  1,  it.;  XJ*  9,  ^, j  U,  3,  a, 
3^.  eadi.    Area  Books;  AldennlDiber.  It.;  Blockley,  la.  6d, 

TO"i»m  Plana-^io-feet  scale  ^— 

Ekguoti^  aki>  Wales:  Lel€€«t<?r.  XXXL  14.  4.  2f.    Warwick,  XXXHI.  9,  t».  24.  ftS;  XXXin.10., 
lis,  17,  1^.  21,  21.  'H  i  XXXHL  13,  6,  9. 16.    Wlabedi,  VJL  3.  3. 13, 19,  20,  21.  each, 
(^Slanfordj  Agent} 

AFRICA. 
Afrika. — Special-Karte  von im  Massstab  von  1  :  4,000,000  ori65*5  geographi- 
cal miles  to  an  inch,  (10  Blatt.)  Entworfeo  von  Hermanu  Habenicht,  bearbeitet 
von  de  nisei  ben,  Bruno  Domann  und  Dr.  Eichard  Liiddecke,  Zweite  Anflf^e. 
Ill,  Liefening,  Inhalt:  Sektion  W^at-Sudan  (4)  nehst  Bemerknngen  von  B, 
Domaun.  Sektion  Capland  (d)  nohst  Bemerkungen  von  Dr.  B,  Liiddecke. 
Gotha,  Justus  Perthes,  18B7.    Price  3«.    (/>«/a«.) 

In  this  isaiio  tbere  will  be  found  numerous  corrections  and  additionB,  of  which 
the  most  imporlimt  are  the  following: — On  eheet  4  the  boundaries  of  the 
Frencli  posaessiona  in  Senegambia  and  Foulah  have  been  considerably 
extended  to  the  south.  The  houndnry  of  the  Portuguese  poesesBions  has  been 
changed  so  that  they  are  laid  down  m  including  all  the  territory  between  Cape 
Roxo  and  the  left  bank  of  the  Cassini  river,  while  they  reach  inland  to  13^  45' 
west  longitude.  The  boundary  of  tbe  Sierra  Leone  Government  is  shifted  to 
the  JoDs  river,  and  British  possessions  on  the  Gold  Coast  are  drawn  as  reaching 
to  the  Assini,  and  including  tbe  Sahwi  territory.  The  Nif^er  Go.'ti  territory 
extends  much  farther  up  the  xiver,  and  is  marked  as  terminating  at  Say- 
On  sheet  9  the  most  noticeable  alteration  is  in  the  boundary  of  the  German 
poeaessions  in  South  Africa,  which  are  now  laid  down  as  extending  right  across 
the  continent  to  the  Zambesi,  and  have  been  moved  from  Capo  Frio  to  the 
Cunene  river,  thus  including  a  fajrther  extent  of  territory  about  seventy  geo- 
graphical miles  wide, 

— —  Geologische  Skizze  von ,    Ton  Dr.  G,  Gurich.    Scale  1 :  45,000,000  or 

10  degrees  to  an  inch.     Petermann's  '  Geographtsche  Mitteilungen,*  Jahrgang 
1887,  Tafel  13.     Justus  Perthes,  Gotha,    (DaZaw.) 

Jemando  Foo. — Karte  der  Inael  --  — ,  JNach  eigenen  AufnahmGn  konstniiert 
und  gezeichnet  von  Oscar  Baumann,  Mitglied  der  I'rof,  Dr,  Lonz'scben  Expedi- 
tion nach  Aequatoriakfrika  1885-87.  Scale  1 ;  200,0C)O  or  2 ^7  geographical  miles 
to  an  inch.  Pctcrmann'a  *  Geographische  Mitteilungen/  Jahrgang  1887,  Tafel 
14.     Justus  Perthes,  Gotha.    (Dtdau,) 

Madsg-askara.— Sarin-Taniny .  Natonta  Fanintelony.  F.  F-  M,  A*  Antana- 
narivo, 1887,  Scale  1 : 1,7 00^000  or  2G'9  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 
Nalainy  Wm.  Johnson  tamy  ny  nataon*ny  Mpizaiia-tany  maro,  aady  nampiany 
no  nahitsing.     On  rollers,  varnished, 

Od  commring  this  map  with  one  published  hj  the  same  author  ten  years 
ago,  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  progress  made  in  our  knowledge  of  the 


: 


NEW  MAPa  657 

geography  of  Madagascar  bIdco  that  time ;  this  is  especially  noticeable  in  all  the 
central  districts  of  the  island.  The  map  has  been  lithographed  at  the  Friends 
Mission  Press,  Antananarivo,  and  is  in  all  respects  a  most  creditable  production. 

Zaire. — Embocadura  do  — .  Beoonhecimento  Hydrographioo  para  lan^amento 
do  cabo  submarine  1886.  Scale  1:  750,000  or  10 '3  geographical  miles  to  an 
inch.    CommissSs  de  Cartographia.    Lisboa,  1887.    (DtUau.) 

AMERICA. 

British  Columbia. — Indexed  Map  of  — ,  with  a  new  and  original  compilation 
and  Index.    Scale  1  :  2,400,000  or. 32 '8  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    Hand, 
McNally  &  Co.    Chicago.    (Trubner.) 
United  States.— Indexed  County  and  Township  Pocket  Map  and  Shippers' iQuide 
of  Arkansas.    Scale  1 : 1,300,000  or  17'  8  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

Ditto,  ditta    Colorado.    Scale  1  : 1,480,000  or  20*2  geographical  miles  to 
an  inch. 

Indexed  County  and  Eaihroad  Pocket  Map  and  Shippers'  Guide  of  Connecti- 
cut.   Scale  1  :  560,000  or  7*6  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

Indexed  County  and  Township  Pocket  Map  and  Shippers'  Guide  of  Florida. 
Scale  1 : 1,600,000  or  21*9  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

Indexed  County  and  Railroad  Pocket  Map  and  Shippers'  Guide  of  Georgia. 
Scale  1  : 1,365,000  or  18*7  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

Official  Map  of  the  Indian  Territory.    Scale  1  :  750,000  or  10*2  geographi- 
cal miles  to  an  inch. 

Indexed  County  and  Railroad  Pocket  Map  and  Shippers'  Guide  of  Kentucky. 
Scale  1  : 1,500,000  or  20*4  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

Indexed  County  and  Township  Pocket  Map  and  Shippers'  Guide  of  Louisiana. 
Scale  1  :  1,500,000  or  20*4  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

Ditto,  ditto.    Hew  Hampshire.    Scale  1  :  590,000  or  8  geographicalXmiles 
to  an  inch. 

Indexed  County,  Township  and  Sectional  Pocket  Map  and  Shippers'  Guide  of 
Ohio-    Scale  1  :  635,000  or  8*7  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

Indexed  County  and  Railroad  Pocket  Map  and  Shippers'  Guide  of  South. 
Carolina.    Scale  1 :  2,000,000  or  27  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

Indexed  County  and  Township  Pocket  Map  and  Shippers'  Guide  of  TJtah. 
Scale  1  :  1,430,000  or  19 '6  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

Ditto,  ditto.    Wyoming.    Sdale  1 : 1,120,000  or  15*3  geographical  miles  to 
an  inch.    Published  by  Rand,  McNally  &  Co.    Chicago.    (Triibner,) 

These  all  belong  to  Rand,  McNally  &  Co.'s  series  of  tourists'  maps ;  they 
each  contain  a  copious  index,  with  reference  letters  and  numbers,  by  which  the 
position  of  any  place  on  the  map  is  easily  found.  Being  handy  in  size  and 
clearly  lettered,  they  are  very  well  suited  to  the  purpose  for  which  they  are 
published. 

ATLASES. 

Berghaus'  Physikalischer  Atlas  (begriindet  1836  von  Heinrich  Berghaus). — 
75  Karten  in  sieben  Abteilungen,  enthaltend  mehrcre  hundert  Darstellungen  iiber 
Geologic,  Hydrographie,  Meteorologie,  Erdmagnetismus,  Pflanzenverbreitung, 
Tierverbreitung  und  VOlkerkunde.  Vollstandig  neu  bearbeitet  xmd  unter  Mit- 
wirkung  von  Dr.  Oscar  Drude,  Dr.  Greorg  Gerland,  Dr.  Julius  Hann,  Dr.  G. 
Hartlaub,  Dr.  W.  Marshall,  Dr.  Georg  Neumayer,  und  Dr.  Karl  v.  Zittel,  heraus- 
gegeben  von  Professor  Dr.  Hermann  Berghaus.  Elfte  Lieferung,  Inhalt :  Nr.  33, 
Isobaren  im  Januar.  44,  Florenreiche.  73,  Amerika  um  1880.  Titel  und 
Yorbemerkungen  zum  AUas  der  Pflanzenverbreitung.    Zwolfte  Lieferung,  Inhalt : 


668 


NEW  MAPS. 


Nr.  2,  Tiefiander.  34,  Isobanen  im  Juli,  58,  Kafer,  Titel  imd  Yorbemerkongen 
znm  Atlas  der  Mcteorologie,     Gotlia,  Justm  Pert1ie%  1887.    Price  3$,  eacli  port. 

Sheet  No,  33  contains  a  Mercator's  projection  of  tlie  Worltl,  on  which  i»  laid 
down  isobars,  and  arrows  indicating  the  direction  of  prevailing  winds  tlirougli- 
out  tho  world  during  the  month  of  January ;  aiid  three  smaller  inset  meteoro- 
logical mapei,  one  ghowing  the  isobars  in  Enrop,  on  an  enlarged  scale,  in 
January,  another  exhibiting  thone  of  the  Korth  Polar  region,  also  on  a  larger 
Ec;alc,  during  the  Bame  monlh,  and  a  third  the  mean  lowest  reiidings  of  the 
world,  drawn  on  a  greatly  reduced  scale.  Sheet  No.  44  contains  a  set  of 
botanical  maps, exhibiting  the  t^ons  of  the  different  flora  of  the  world;  they 
are  drawn  on  Lambert's  projection.  On  sheet  No.  73  ib  shown  the  distribution 
of  races  in  North  and  South  America  in  1880.  Thejse  are  most  interesting 
maps,  hut  llie  number  of  shades  of  colour  and  the  numerous  symbols  which  it 
has  been  fouud  necessary  to  employ  are  somewhat  confusing.  Sheet  No.  2 
shows  the  depressions  below  sea-leveh  Sheet  Na  34  is  a  set  of  meteorological 
maps  for  July,  in  which  the  scheme  of  production  corresponds  to  that  already 
described  with  reference  to  Map  No.  33.  Sheet  58  contains  six  maps,  showing 
the  distribution  of  genera  of  Coleoptora  throughout  the  world. 

Ireland. — Pocket  Atlas  of .     By  J.  Bartholomew,  f.r,o.9.    With  Index  and 

GeographicaL  Statistical  Notes,    London,  John  Walker  &  Co.,  1887.     Price  1*. 

Schweiz. — Topographischer  Atlas  der  Schweiz  im  Mass  tab  der  Original-Aufnahmen 
nach  dem  Bundesgesetze  vom  18.  Dezember  1868,  durch  das  eidgenoBsische 
Statsbiirean  nnter  der  Direktion  Ton  Oberst  Siegfried  veroffentlicht.  XXXI. 
Lieferung  (1 :  25,000).  Nr.  80,  Heiden.  169,  Triengen.  170,  Meisterschwanden. 
172,  Keinach.  173,  Merenschwand.  188,  Semi  ach.  1^1|  2ug.  193,  Aegeri. 
271,  Balgach.  272,  Oberriet.  285,  Coocise.  XXX.  Lieferang.  (1 :  25,CX)0) 
Eheiofelden.  171,  Muri.  179,  Mdchnsu.  181,  Huttwih  224,  Appenzell, 
237,  Stockberg.  255,  Buchs.  267,  Mela.  268,  Sargans.  270,  Kagaz.  34e, 
Farvagny.  385^  Schwarzenegg.  Bern,  Schmid,  Prancke  &  Cie.  (vormala  Buch- 
handlung  Dalp,  Eahnhofplatz).     Price  12«»  Gcf.  each  part.     {Didau.) 

Fncrowded  Atlas  of  Political  Oeography^ — The being  an  atlas  specially 

prejmrtd  for  school  u^e,  and  whicli  giires  in  each  map  only  the  geographical 
information  scholars  should  possefis,  and  no  more*  By  T,  Iluddimaa  Johnston, 
F.R.n.ft.  Containing  twenty-four  maps  and  astronomical  diagrams.  London, 
Kuddiman  Johnston  &  Co.,  Limited.     Price  Is, 

In  this  atlas  all  mountain  ranges  are  represented  by  black  lines,  and  the 
maps  contain  so  few  names  that  in  some  cases  they  are  little  moro  than 
skeletons.  The  author  does  not  seem  to  have  grasped  the  difference  there  is 
between  an  overcrowded  map  and  one  which,  while  containing  nothing  un- 
necessary, shall  at  the  same  time  convey  to  the  mind  of  tho  Bcholar  a  ctirrect 
notion  of  the  general  physical  features  of  the  country,  the  x*o«itiona  of  centres  of 
mannfactnre,  and  the  chief  towns  of  counties  or  deimrtnients.  This  cannot  be 
done  by  indicating  a  tableland  or  wide  range  of  hilla  by  a  black  line,  which  can 
only  tend  to  give  a  child  a  very  erroneous  idea  of  the  country. 


V  t  ^jf     S 


Silly  wnadsi  e^ut^trpf 


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IfC 


IS' 


^^ 


PROCEEDINGS 

OF  THB 

EOYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  RECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


Notes  on  a  Sketch  Map  of  two  BoiUes  in  the  Eastern  Desert  of  Egypt. 

By  Ernebt  a.  Floybb,  p.l.b. 
Map,  p.  730. 

There  is  in  the  region  nnder  description  mncli  that  differs  widely  from 
the  Egypt  of  the  ordinary  traveller.  It  is  a  district  of  lofty  mountains, 
of  valleys  wrapped  in  snow,  of  keen  morning  mists,  of  water&lls 
springing  from  ambushes  of  tall  reeds,  of  crystal  pools  mirroring  the 
stately  heads  of  ibex,  and  of  grottoes  hid  ih  maidenhair  fern.  These 
things  seem  strange  in  the  land  of  dull  mud  fiats,  the  featureless  and 
woodless  land,  where  an  evil-smelling  temple  is  substituted  for  a  hill, 
and  the  "  forests  "  of  dates  supply  food  to  a  kind-hearted  but  eminently 
prosaic  population. 

The  roughly  oblong  stretch  of  country  of  which  the  top  comers  are 
Cairo  and  Suez,  and ;  which  stretches  down  between  the  Nile  and  the 
Red  Sea  to  Assuan  and  Berenice,  which  are  the  bottom  comers,  presents 
the  same  general  characteristic  throughout.  It  is  a  mountainous  desert, 
150  miles  broad,  rising  slowly  from  the  Nile  over  sandy  wastes*  and 
secondary  hills  for  about  a  hundred  miles,  where  the  elevation  is 
2000  feet.  Down  the  centre  runs  a  main  range  or  backbone  of  granite 
and  primary  rocks.  From  this  the  desert  slopes  more  steeply  and  more 
evenly  to  the  sea,  over  shingly  plains  and  sometimes  low  secondary  and 
tertiary  ranges  to  the  coral  of  the  sea-coast.  The  eastern  side  of  the 
watershed  is,  as  might  be  guessed,  more  often  blessed  with  rain  than 
the  western.  On  the  seaward  side  during  the  winter  months  heavy 
clouds  hang  round  the  summits,  until  with  thunder  and  violent  winda 
they  pour  in  torrents  down  the  barren  mountain  clefts,  and  fill  the 
granite  dells  and  basins  with  an  ample  supply  for  the  scanty  fiocka 
during  the  summer.  The  western  side  remains  for  the  most  part  a  hot, 
dry,  scorched-up,  sunny  waste.  Always  the  same.  One  wishes  for  no 
twilight  after  a  long  day's  ride  from  the  Nile  banks  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  but  is  content  with  the  almost  sudden  darkness  after  sunset, 
which  is  one  of  the  great  points  of  difference  between  an  English  and 

No.  XI.— Nov.  1887.]  8  a 


G60 


NOTES  ON  A  SKETCH  MAP  OF  TWO  ROUTES 


an  Egyptian  day.  The  ram-clou ds  which  hnrst  on  the  lofty  granite 
anmmits  are  not,  however,  entirely  reatrioted  to  the  seaward  side.  The 
Nile  side  has  its  picturesque  ravines,  its  tree-sprinkled  nullahs,  its 
waterfalls  and  granite  basins.  But  the  seaward  side  is  steeper  and 
stonier,  and  the  gullies  show  a  deeper  erosion,  and  a  wilder  commotion 
among  the  water- worn  bonlders,  than  the  sand-choked  wadiea  which 
wind  their  rihbon  of  stunted  mimosas  down  to  the  Nile. 

Wilkinson  has  described  many  of  its  antiquities,  while  its  modem 
asi>ect  has  been  treated  by  Herr  Klunzinger,  and  my  friend  Professor 
Schweinfurth  has  laid  out  the  country  in  wadies  or  torrent-beds,  one  of 
which  he  explores  whenever  he  can  spare  time  from  his  other  multi- 
farious pursuits.  This  system  of  marching  up  the  various  wadies  is  the 
only  system  hy  which  the  country  can  be  practically  explored.  So 
'fantastically  rugged  and  chaotio  are  the  mountains  of  the  main  range 
that  you  can  only  follow  where  water  shows  you  the  way.  And  the 
traveller  wiU  not  long  forget  that  water  leaps  down  a  precipice  which 
gives  him  considerable  trouble  to  climb  up. 

The  Bedawin  inhabitants  are  to  the  north  the  Ma*iza  tribe,  who 
live  in  goatVhair  tents,  and  despise  the  comparatively  civilised  Ababdi 
who  live  south  of  a  line  drawn  east  from  Kenneh,  and  who  occasionally 
build  themselves  huts  of  mats. 

The  prominent  features  of  a  Bcdawi  are  courage,  endurance,  and 
avarice.  Avarice  is  the  quality  most  deeply  engrained,  but  it  is  not  a 
10  preach  to  them.  It  is  simply  Belf-preservation.  I  should  say  that  the 
Ma'aza  have  a  harder  struggle  for  existence  than  the  Ababdi,  and  cling 
to  their  view  of  a  money  transaction  with  proportionately  greater 
tenacity*  The  former  speak  a  singularly  pure  Arabic,  and  their  arti- 
culation is  beautiful.  Some  of  the  Arabic  plurals  of  tribal  names  are 
curious.  An  Abidi  is  one  of  the  Ababdi  tribe ;  a  Hendua  is  one  of  the 
Hadendowa  tribe.  The  Ababdi  are  perhaps  the  pleasanter  tribe  to  deal 
withj  but  all  Bedawin  are  tough  parties  in  a  money  transaction.  The 
relations  between  the  tribes  and  the  Government  are  for  the  most  part 
tranquil.  The  local  governor  of  a  Nile  town  requires  a  Bedawi  sheikh 
to  live  in  his  town*  This  man  is  nominally  responsible  for  the  behaviour 
of  his  tribe,  while  in  return  all  camel  contracts  are  made  through  him. 
Beiine  this  position  as  a  hostage,  agent,  i}olitical  resident— gild  the 
pill  how  you  will— no  self-respecting  Bedawi  will  live  in  a  town  or 
associate  with  its  governor.  The  man  sent  by  the  tribe  is  generally 
some  old  man,  in  whose  character  there  is  a  flaw* 

If  one  reflects  on  the  conditions  of  Bedawi  exiatence,  it  is  obvious 
that  the  highest  conceivable  standard  of  honesty  is  a  first  and  absolut© 
essential. 

A  Bedawi  is  not  generally  supposed  to  have  much  property,  but  he 
is  distinctly  a  property-owning  creature.  His  gun  and  his  camel-saddle 
he  keeps  with  him ;  but  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  his  wife  would  take  care 


IN  THE  EASTERN  DESERT  OF  EQTPT.  661 

that  he  did  not  have  a  very  expensiye  gun,  until  she  had  got  at  least  a 
•cooking-pot  and  a  flat  metal  baking-platter. 

A  Bedawi  leayes  his  women,  children,  and  property  for  months  at  a 
time ;  when  his  camels  are  grazing  he  takes  off  their  saddles  and  puts 
ihem  nnder  a  bnsh ;  he  deposits  a  bag  of  beans  by  the  way,  for  his  camel 
io  eat  on  the  return  journey.  If  these  things  were  impossible,  he  could 
not  carry  on  his  struggle  for  existence.  A  thief  is  only  possible  where 
ihere  are  locks  and  bars.  There  are  always  weaker  vessels  who  in  an 
unguarded  moment  *'find"  a  camel  rein,  and  such  people  gravitate 
towards  the  river  bank.  This  class  supplies  the  resident  agents,  and  it 
may  be  readily  imagined  that  sa  long  as  the  governor  could  draw  money 
to  suppress  Bedawin  raids,  so  long  were  the  dreadful  Bedawin  spoken 
-of  with  bated  breath,  and  their  numbers  and  fierceness  ludicrously 
exaggerated. 

Public  security  is  not,  however,  dependent  on  the  Bedawin  since 
Baker  Pasha  and  his  police  took  up  their  duties  in  Upper  Egypt. 

The  young  men  of  both  the  IMDa'aza  and  Ababdi  wear  their  hair  in 
the  fuzzy  fashion  rendered  familiar  during  the  Suakin  campaign,  but  it 
is  always  under  some  special  circumstances,  and  usually  a  white  scanty 
turban  is  worn  by  young  and  old. 

It  seems  probable  that  the  Eastern  desert  was  the  scene  of  the  esta- 
blishment of  the  first  monasteries  in  the  world*  Those  of  St.  Anthony 
and  St.  Paul  are  still  visited  by  travellers.  They  are  about  9  miles 
apart,  and  about  17  from  the  coast  in  latitude  29°,  while  in  the  two 
routes  which  I  shall  more  particularly  describe  are  found  the  remains  of 
others,  which,  so  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  investigate,  date  from  the 
fourth  or  fifth  century  of  the  Christian  era. 

The  part  of  the  country,  however,  which  has  the  most  ancient  record 
is  the  old  trade  route  between  Kosseir,  on  the  Bed  Sea,  and  Eoptos 
(modem  Euft),  on  the  Nile. 

This  road,  which  two  thousand  years  ago  carried  almost  the  whole 
traffic  between  the  East  and  West  (between  Borne  and  India),  has  very 
great  natural  advantages.  Sooner  than  sail  the  long  voyage  up  to  Suez, 
Sir  David  Baird  marched  across  it  in  July  1801,  and  only  lost  3  men  out 
of,  80  far  as  I  can  read,  5000,  of  which  700  were  English.  He  dug  two 
wells,  but  his  expedition  nearly  failed  through  the  rottenness  of  his 
waterskins,  than  which  there  is  no  more  futile  vehicle  for  water. 

Later  on,  in  1839,  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Steam  Navigation 
•Company  carried  their  passengers  and  mails  across  from  Eenneh  to 
Kosseir.  In  a  diary  of  an  ancestor  in  India,  I  find  him  in  1826  praising 
the  rapidity  with  which  letters  had  arrived  by  this  new  route.  The  com- 
pany rebuilt  some  of  the  wells,  and  over  the  entrance  to  the  Sayala  well 
is  a  well-cut  inscription  as  follows : — "  M.  E.  Bbigqs.  W.  I.  Hancock. 
Tho.  Wood.  May  25,  1839."  I  think  these  are  evidently  the  names  of 
masons  employed.    The  route  £rom  Kosseir  td  Kenneh,  111  miles  long, 

3a  2 


662 


NOTES  ON  A  SKETCH  MAP  OF  TWO  ROUTES 


divides  into  two  roads,  called  respectiTely  the  Kussafa  and  the  Sikka 
road  (Baird'e  road) ;  but  from  all  I  can  leani»  a  description  of  the  KuBsafa 
road  will  serve  for  both. 

It  was  in  Feb  mar j  1886  that,  on  my  return  from  Suakin,  I  landed 
at  Kos&eir.  The  populatiou  of  2500  were  much  astouiBhed  at  the  near 
approach  of  a  large  English  steamer,  a  sight  which  had  not  been  seen 
since  1864,  when  an  enterprising  cable  company  laid  short  lengths  of 
cable  down  the  Red  Sea,  and  built  a  temporary  station  at  Kosseir, 
Numerous  flags  were  hoisted,  and  almost  the  whole  population  came  to 
the  shore  to  meet  me.  I  itistalled  myself  in  the  large  Government  house, 
where  the  governor  was  most  hospitable,  though  be  was  such  a  small, 
aged,  and  inconsequential  little  man  that  he  really  appeared  to  have 
been  accidentally  discovered  by  my  servants  while  dusting  out  a  room, 
for  me  to  sleep  in.  From  the  appearance  of  the  houscj  I  never  for  a 
moment  supposed  it  was  inhabitedj  and  ordered  my  people  to  sweep  it 
out  for  me,  under  the  impression  that  it  had  not  been  occupied  for  a 
hundred  years  or  eo.  But  we  were  neither  of  ua  greatly  disconcerted, 
and  after  coffee  we  explored  his  town  together. 

Although  the  water-supply  is  brought  from  a  distance  of  ten  hours, 
we  found  a  busy  littlo  town,  and  new  houses  were  in  coui-se  of  construc- 
tion from  the  coarse  soft  coral  which  forms  the  coast,  while  the  huge 
empty  granarieB  were  memorials  of  the  time  when  the  Egyptian  tribute 
was  paid  in  grain  to  the  Turkish  soldiers  in  Arabia,  and  was  shipped 
hence  in  native  boats  to  Jeddab  and  Yambo,  on  the  opposite  coast.  The 
fort  was  built  by  Belliard  and  Donzeld,  and  in  1800  played  havoc  with 
a  detachment  of  marines  from  H.M.S.  Fvx^  who  appear  to  have  landed 
in  ignorance  of  its  existence,  and  were  cut  to  pieces.  It  contains  a 
curious  relic  of  the  French  occupation  in  a  mortar  dated  '*  Messidor  de 
Tan  3  de  la  Eepublique  Fran^aise." 

I  think  the  repaired  well,  with  its  homely  and  rather  cockney  inscrip- 
tion, is  characteristic  of  the  plain  and  practical  impress  England  leaves 
upon  a  country.  If  we  were  to  leave  Egypt  to-morrow  wo  should  leave 
the  corvi^  abolished,  a  measure  which  makes  no  show,  but  which  is  of 
as  unmixed  a  benefit  in  its  results  as  even  the  abolition  of  slavery,  the 
great  object  which  the  Khedive  of  Egypt  is  slowly  but  surely  attaining. 

KoBseir  is  situated  on  the  northern  bank  of  the  broad  water-course,  or 
Khor  Ambagi.  During  rain  this  brings  down  a  heavy  flood  of  sweet 
water,  which,  however,  all  runs  into  the  sea.  And  on  this  point  Klun- 
zinger  has  a  theory,  wliich  1  mention  that  it  may  receive  fuller  investiga- 
tion. He  thinks  that  the  ancient  ports  on  the  Ked  Sea  were  all  opposite 
mouths  of  similar  water-courses,  and  tbat  the  harbours  were  formed  by 
the  sweet  water  killing  the  coral,  and  thus  forming  a  break  in  the  reef, 
which  otherwise  ran  in  a  continuous  line  along  the  coast. 

A  mile  to  the  south^west^  in  the  main  bed  of  the  river,  is  a  small 
garden  with  twelve  date-trees  in  it,  but  beyond  this  there  is  no  vegeta- 


IN  THE  EASTERN  DESERT  OP  EGYPT.  663 

tion  but  sea-weed,  and  how  the  200  goats  which  exist  are  maintained  is 
a  puzzle. 

One  day  sufficed  to  exhaust  the  sights  of  Kosseir,  though  Klunadnger 
spent  eight  happy  years  among  the  fishes,  sea-weeds,  tiie  rooks,  and 
sparse  flora  of  the  neighbourhood.  Six  picked  camels  were  waiting  for 
me,  and  the  next  morning  I  started  off,  full  of  the  pleasurable  excite- 
ment  of  a  new  route. 

We  started  up  the  Ehor  Ambagi,  and  soon  entered  into  the  mountains. 
This  is  an  excessively  barren  part  of  the  world,  and  in  seventy  miles 
I  only  saw  two  species  of  plants,  neither  of  which  were  camel  fodder, 
and  all  of  which  were  burnt  to  tinder;  for  it  was  four  years,  the 
natives  said,  since  any  rain  had  fallen.  But  the  most  striking  feature 
is  the  goodness  of  the  road  through  the  mountains.  The  idea  is  con- 
stantly suggested  that  it  is  artificial,  though  a  closer  examination 
dispels  this ;  and  Strabo  and  other  ancient  writers  mention  the  road  as 
an  ordinary  desert  track.  I  can  convey  the  best  idea  of  it  by  describing 
something  else. 

A  horseman  travelling  in  middle  Egypt  in  the  hot  weather,  finds  the 
narrow  donkey-paths  winding  between  the  fields  very  irksome  to  his 
horse.  The  surface  of  the  fields  themselves  is  baked  into  deep  crevasses, 
making  them  dangerous  to  ride  over,  so  that  short  cuts  cannot  be  made. 
The  banks  which  control  the  inundation  wind  about  so  much  as  to 
sometimes  nearly  double  the  distance  from  point  to  point.  He  is  glad 
therefore  when  he  finds  a  canal  which  has  just  been  cleaned  out  and 
which  runs  in  the  direction  he  is  travelling.  He  descends  into  the  bed 
and  finds  himself  in  a  perfectly  level  road,  perhaps  100  feet  wide,  the 
edges  accurately  cut,  while  on  either  side  is  a  miniature  mountain-range 
formed  by  the  banks  of  the  canal,  and  the  loose  earth  which  has  recentiy 
been  dug  from  the  bed. 

Petrify  this  dry  canal  into  granite,  substitute  a  gradual  incline  for  a 
dead  level,  make  it  wind  slightly  instead  of  running  straight,  and  you 
have  an  exact  reproduction  on  a  small  scale  of  the  seventy-mile 
mountainous  portion  of  the  Bussafa  route.  One  is  tempted  to  describe 
it  as  smooth  and  well  kept.  The  western  forty  miles  stretches  over  a 
fairly  hard  shingly  plain,  diversified  with  low  undulating  ridgies ;  and 
with  the  exception  of  two  rather  steep  defiles,  each  of  200  yards,  an 
omnibus — ^indeed  many  omnibuses  abreast— might  trot  the  whole 
distance  from  the  Nile  to  the  Bed  Sea. 

There  is  little  to  be  seen  that  is  not  properly  transferred  to  the 
itinerary.  Down  in  a  trough  you  rarely  see  far  to  the  right  or  left  A 
glimpse  now  and  then  shows  you  nothing  but  hills,  from  which,  if  you 
try  to  select  one  as  a  landmark,  you  will  be  hidden  by  the  next  turn  in 
the  valley. 

One  can  keep  up  an  even  four  miles  an  hour  over  the  smooth  road, 
and  the  compass  and  road-book  are  always  busy.    In  the  evening,  as 


664 


KOTES  ON  A  SKETCH  MAP  OF  TWO  ROUTES 


dusk  approacheB,  rocks  asenme  fantaBtic  shapes,  and  shadows  »eem  to 
move.  Tlien  from  the  storehouse  of  your  mind,  you  may  people  the 
valley  with  tho  varied  crowds,  which,  thousands  of  times,  have  filled  its 
rocky  windings.  It  may  be  an  endless  chain  of  silent-foot efi  camels, 
each  can-ying  his  two  goat's-hair  sacks  of  wheat  straddled  upright 
across  his  hack.  These  plod  past  with  a  resistless  and  munotonou& 
swing,  and  you  wonder  how  the  ten  or  twelve  wiry  little  men  caii 
possibly  look  after  the  iive  or  sir  hundred  camels.  But  a  caravan  of 
wheat  requires  but  little  attetition.  When  they  halt,  the  camel  kneels^ 
the  toggles  which  fasten  the  bales  are  nnalipped,  and  the  camel  walks 
away.  To  load  up,  the  camel  is  made  to  kneel  between  the  sacks ;  one 
is  raised  slightly  by  two  men,  the  toggle  is  slipped  in,  and  the  camel 
rises  with  his  load,  and  wanders  off  after  those  who  have  already 
started*  It  is  with  European  miscellaneous  baggage  and  over  an  uneven- 
road  which  causes  the  packages  to  shift,  that  camel4oading  is  a  tedious 
operation. 

What  did  a  caravan  along  tho  Russafa  route  two  thousand  years  ago 
look  like?  The  sun,  the  rocks,  the  regular  valley  road  are  the  same. 
Tho  men  are  the  same*  There  is  no  doubt.  I  think,  that  the  Ababdi,, 
with  whom  we  are  riding,  are  tho  Blemmyos  of  Strabo's  history,  Tho 
caravan  would  he  going  the  other  way,  the  bales  being  of  valuable 
silks  and  perfumes  would  be  smaller  than  the  wheat  sacks.  They 
would  be  like  the  bales  which  are  to-day  sent  from  tho  silk-looms  of 
Yezd  to  the  sea-coast,  long  aqnare-Bectionod  bales,  thickly  wrapped  in 
many  folds  of  goat's-hair  cloth.  And  instead  of  six  men  there  would 
be  sijc  hundred,  with  javelins  instead  of  matchlocks,  for  each  of  tho 
bales  is  worth  dOf,  Sharpe,  in  his  history,  says  the  Egyptians  in  the 
time  of  Hadrian,  a.d.  120,  sent  coarse  linen,  glass  bottles,  brazen  vessels, 
brass  for  money,  iron  for  weapons  ^  while  they  received  ivory,  steely 
Indian  ink,  silk,  slaves,  tortoiseshellr  myrrh,  and  other  scents. 

At  every  five  or  six  miles  aloi  g  tho  valley  is  the  remains  of  a  khan 
or  caravansera*  They  are  much  in  niins,  but  I  should  think  that  each 
would  accommodate  a  hxindred  camels  with  their  loads  and  attendants* 
Thus  the  road  would  acconimodate  a  cafUa  of  2000  camels,  a  stately 
procession  resembling  that  which  leaves  Yezd  once  a  year  for  Bunder 
Abbass. 

Perched  on  the  summits  of  the^hilla  round  each  khan  are  little  watch- 
towers,  from  which  the  watchmen  announced  the  approach  of  a  cafila, 
and  perhaps,  but  rarely  I  should  think,  a  raid  by  robbers.  The  sur- 
rounding chaos  of  hills  coiild  never  have  supported  a  band  numerous 
enough  to  attack  a  well-guarded  caravan. 

In  the  month  of  February  you  face  a  cool  invigorating  breeze ;  yon 
can  speak  of  a  bright  sun  without  associations  of  blistered  face  and 
hands;  every  turn  in  the  valley  may  disclose  something  interesting; 
your  camels  swing  along  without  ui  ging,  and  at  every  mile  you  xis^ 


IN  THE  EASTERN  DESERT  OF  EGYPT. 


m 


into  a  purer  and  brisker  atmoapbere.  At  forty-one  mileB  you  reach  tbe 
narrow  steep  defile  of  Abti  Faoana,  where  the  aneroid  shows  1900  feet, 
and  whence  yon  slowly  descend.  Yon  will  probably  camp  for  the  night 
at  Sid,  a  fine  gorge  choked  with  huge  blocks  of  black  and  white  granite 
containing  a  little  pictnresqne  nook  of  sweet  water. 

From  Sid  you  start  down  a  broad  coach-road,  and  soon  enter  a  fine 
gorge,  called  the  Mesagb  El  Bagar.  Hero  are  traces  of  the  Greeks  and 
the  Eomans,  who,  there  seems  little  doubt,  2000  years  ago  worked  the 
quarries  which  had  been  abandoned  by  the  Egyptians  3000  years 
previously.  It  requires  an  effort  to  appreciate  the  antiquity  of  things 
Egyptian.  Here  the  irrepressible  tourist  has  been  carving  his  name 
and  disfiguring  the  ancient  quarries.  But  the  tourists*  names  are 
Cambysesj  Darius,  and  Xerxes,  and  they  carved  their  names  2400  years 
ago.  At  Oxford  you  may  see  crumbling  old  carvings  which  are 
150  years  old.  A  samplo  of  the  breccia,  or  pudding-stone,  from  Hamma- 
mat,  has  been  prepared  for  mo  by  the  kindness  of  my  friend,  Mr. 
Brindley^  the  modem  builder  of  temples. 

On  leaving  Hammaraat  the  road  emerges  from  the  mountains,  and 
foUows  a  broad  shallow  wadi  over  undulating  shingly  plains  for 
28  miles,  when  you  leave  it  on  the  left,  and  halt  at  a  village  called 
El  Gaita.  This  valley  is  the  Wadi  Zeidun,  which  reaches  the  river 
near  Kopt^s,  and  may  very  likely  be  the  canal  to  the  Nile,  on  which 
Straho  says  Koptos  was  situated. 

These  Ababdi  Bedawin  are  so  civilised,  that  here  they  have  a  vUlag© 
of  forty  brick  huts,  a  few  patches  of  corn  and  date  palms^  many  brackish 
wells,  and  some  good  ones.  El  Uaita  is  a  more  important  place  than  it 
seems.  It  is,  in  its  way,  what  Burton  described  Suez  as,  a  jumping-off 
place  from  civilisation*  It  is  a  good  twenty  miles  away  from  the  edge  of 
the  Bif,  the  general  name  of  the  cultivated  Nile  valley,  and  has  an 
ample  supply  of  good  water.  It  served  as  a  starting-point  for  the 
Kosseir  route,  and  also  for  the  ancient  route  to  Berenice.  This  last  was 
one  of  the  six  great  military  roads  in  Egypt,  and  was  well  provided  with 
khans  and  water. 

The  violent  north  winds  which  prevail  in  the  Bed  Sea  made  the 
navigation  so  difficult  and  slow  for  the  poor  «hips  of  the  ancients,  that 
2200  years  ago,  Ptolemy  Philadelphus  established  the  port  of  Berenice. 
This  is  200  miles  south  of  tho  ancient  ports  at  or  near  Kosseir,  and 
consequently  saved  that  distance  and  its  attendant  delays  and  dangers 
to  the  mariners  from  Southern  Arabia  fiud  India*  I  suppose  the  best 
oatnels  and  tho  worst  ships  would  choose  Beit^nice,  while  the  best  ships 
and  the  worst  camels  would  carry  the  Kosseir  traffic.  For  it  is  interest- 
ing to  note  that  Philadelphus,  at  the  same  time  that  he  built  Berenice, 
also  rebuilt  the  old  Kosseir  port,  and  Myos  Hormos,  a  third  port  still 
higher  up  the  coast,  was  still  kept  in  repair^  In  modem  days, 
luxurious  steamers,  steaming  300  miles  a  day,  compote  with  Pullman 


666 


NOTES  ON  A  SKETCH  MAP  OF  TWO  ROUTES 


cara,  which  go  700  milea  a  day;  In  former  days  it  is  probable  that 
many  a  sea-sick  travollcr,  buffeted  by  contrary  %\indfl,  joyfully  landed 
at  Berenice,  and  took  the  twelve  days'  camel  journey  sooner  than  con- 
tinue in  his  cramped  ship,  just  as  now  thoy  disembark  at  Brindisi 
instead  of  Venice. 

But  there  is  little  of  interest  left  in  the  Berenice  road  now,  and 
Captain  Colson,  who  janrneyed  there  in  1878,  found  little  to  record  but 
the  ruined  Imltiug-places  and  choked  wells. 

From  El  Gaita  the  traveller  will  probably  find  the  road  uninterest^ 
ing,  and  he  will  speed  off  to  tho  **rif.'*  But,  if  possible,  he  should 
arrange  to  arrive  at  tho  Xile  in  the  eveningi  and  thug  enjoy  one  of  the 
richest  visions  that  ever  6teei>ed  his  senses  in  delight. 

Some  people  exult  in  the  desert,  are  inspired  by  its  air,  moved  to 
emotion  by  its  rugged  mountain  solitudes,  and  stimulated  even  by  the 
vigour  of  its  absolute  sterility.  Such  men  draw  pleasure  from  all 
things  alike — from  the  bracing  tonic  of  the  desert,  and  from  tho  soft 
indolence  of  the  Nile  valley's  wealth  of  verdure.  Otiiers  will  think  of 
Socrates,  afi  be  rubbed  his  leg,  and  say,  "  What  is  pleaanro  but  release 
from  pain  ?  '*  And  it  is  true,  that  though  the  Englishman  is  the  only 
man  who  travels  unmoved  alike  in  tho  hottest  and  the  coldest  parts  of 
bis  planet,  still  there  are  many  Englishmen  whoso  functions  are  most 
perfectly  fulfilled  in  their  own  island,  and  who  wish  neither  barren 
desert  nor  fertile  valley. 

Volumes  Lave  been  written  in  praise  of  the  Nile  vaUey  by  those 
who  have  reached  it  in  luxurious  vessels,  which  have  borne  them  swiftly 
from  their  sylvan  homes  in  the  loveliest  country  in  the  world.  What 
must  be  the  feelings  of  him  who  has  spent  a  month  or  two  on  the  Bed 
Sea,  and  then  reaches  it  across  the  Russafa  road  ? 

As  you  approach  from  the  east  you  see  long  cliffs  which  back  the 
river,  and  a  line  of  haze  marking  its  course.  StiH  the  sandy  shingle 
you  are  riding  over  might  be  at  Kosseir  for  any  signs  it  shows  of  neigh- 
bourhood to  tho  bountiful  Nile.  At  last  you  rise  over  the  last  low 
ridge — one  more  step,  and  you  are  in  a  sea  of  clover  of  the  richest  green. 
AVhat  a  pleasant  homely  prospect  lies  before  you  I  The  sun  is  setting 
in  a  crimson  haze  over  a  rich  plain  dotted  with  houses  and  with  villages ; 
men,  women,  and  children  troop  along  the  narrow  paths,  laughing 
and  talking,  driving  their  cows  and  sheep  before  them.  A  soft,  warm 
moisture  steals  over  your  sunburnt  cheek,  you  draw  in  one  deep  draught, 
and  the  vigorous  condition  to  which  the  desert  air  and  the  swift  ride 
have  braced  you,  all  melts  away  in  that  first  breath,  and  you  are  undone. 
But  it  is  a  delicious  undoing.  The  scent  of  clover,  the  cheerful  talk,  the 
broad  good-natured  faces,  and  last,  but  not  least,  tho  friendly  groaning 
of  a  hundred  w^aterwheeis,  dotted  all  over  the  plain— everything  murmurs, 
'*  Lay  you  down  and  sleep ;  why  this  hard  riding ;  why  this  pestilential 
energy  ?  "     Yonder,  made  glorioua  by  the  setting  sun,  lies  hundred-gated 


IN  THE  EASTERN  DESERT  OF  EGYPT. 


667 


Thebes,  and  here  we  will  stop.  The  prophet,  when  he  looked  down 
upon  the  beautiful  gardens  of  Bamascus,  turned  him  about  and  departed. 
What  he  said  was  that  he  could  only  go  to  on©  Paradise,  and  he  preferred 
to  wait  for  tJie  other.  What  avo  feel  is,  that  the  Luxor  Hotel,  oven 
when  kept  by  Mr,  Cook,  does  not  require  description  here. 

We  bave  gone  south-west  to  see  the  sunset  over  the  rich  broad  plain 
of  Thebes,  Wo  wished  to  strike  the  Kile  vaOey  at  right  angles,  and 
thus  plunge  headlong  into  it,,  instead  of  approaching  it  obliquely  and 
making  the  disen  chant  men  t  gradual.  But  our  way  from  El  Gaita  lies 
north-west.  Seventeen  miles  brings  us  to  Bir  Ambar,  a  village  on  the 
edge  of  the  "rif"  and  the  desert.  Thence  ten  miles  along  the  edge  of 
the  fields  bring  us  to  the  large  and  once  important  town  of  Eenneh. 

From  Keuneh  we  have  yet  before  us  the  most  interesting  route,  and 
we  enter  upon  ground  which  was  briefly  described  by  Mr*,  later  on  Sir 
Gardner,  Wilkinson  in  1830.  North-east  from  here,  or,  to  be  more  exact, 
from  Koft,  now  a  village  near  here,  runs  another  trade  route,  by  which 
the  merchandise  landed  at  Myos  Hormos  arrived  in  Egypt*  By  tbia 
route  /Elius  Gallus,  the  Koman  general,  returned  from  his  unsuocessful 
expedition  to  Arabia  1000  years  ago,  after  Syllaus,  King  Obadas*  crafty 
minister,  had  led  him  a  wild-gooso  chase  over  the  most  inhospitable 
deserts  of  Arabia.  The  valley  behind  Kenneh  drains  the  western  slopes 
of  a  hundred  miles  of  mountains ;  and  as  a  curious  instance  of  the  power 
of  even  infrequent  water  persevering  through  long  cycles,  large  pebbles 
of  primary  rock  may  be  picked  up  in  its  bed  which  have  travelled  not  less 
than  50  miles.  Along  this  road  came  the  groaning  carts  conveying  the 
rich  red  porphyry  from  the  quarries  of  what  is  now  Jebel  Dukhan,  the 
mountain  of  smoke.  I  do  not  feel  sure  that  the  granite  was  ever  brought 
in  large  quantities  from  the  granite  quarries  of  Jebel  Fatireh ;  but  it 
was  along  this  road  that  the  unhappy  convicts  struggled  to  their  dreary 
labours,  or  perhaps  bounded  joyously  along  after  having  completed  their 
labours ;  for  in  those  days  it  seems  that  men  were  condemned  to  excavate 
so  many  feet  of  griinite  as  now  they  are  condemned  to  pick  so  many 
pounds  of  oakum. 

Starting  from  Kenneh  in  a  northerly  direction,  yon  notice  that  for  a 
mile  the  debouchement  of  the  Wadi  Kenneh,  along  which  the  route  lies, 
bears  a  rich  crop  of  corn,  and  several  wells  of  good  water  are  found  near 
the  Coptic  burying-ground  at  the  head  of  the  cultivated  land.  Here  is 
the  ruin  of  a  house  built  by  Mr.  Libhy  some  twenty  years  ago,  when  he 
supervised  the  supply  of  provisions  to  the  Marquis  de  Baasano  while 
the  latter  was  excavating  sulphur  from  Jimseh,  on  the  Red  Sea.  The 
woodwork  was  all  torn  down  and  burnt  during  the  great  "year  of 
hunger,"  1878,  when  Mr.  Baird,  of  Uri,  went  up  the  Nile  to  distribute 
the  Khedive*s  bounty  to  his  suffering  but  patient  people* 

Thence  you  follow  the  wadi  up  a  broad  shingly  plain  skirting  the 
eastern  fiank  of  some  low  secondary  hills,  and  at  12  miles  you  find  that 


668  NOTES  ON  A  SKETCH  MAP  OF  TWO  ROUTES  ■ 

the  water- oouTBfi  sweeps  round  a  low  bluff  of  pudding-etone,  where  very 
little  water  ib  found  12  feet  below  the  surface.  As  you  approach  this 
Bir  ArraSt  or  Arras  well,  you  seo  quiveriog  and  shiftiug  under  the 
burning  sun  what  appears  to  be  some  Bedawi  goat's-hair  tents.  They 
are,  however,  no  tenta,  bat  a  curious  example  of  how  soil  is  made.  For 
some  miles,  a  number  of  tamarisks,  encouraged  by  the  water  held  up 
beneath  the  soil  by  the  bluff  befoi'e  mentioned,  have  for  many  years 
pushed  a  struggling  existence.  The  spiniform  leaves  of  successiv© 
autumns  have  fallen  round  each  buahj  and  bound  the  sand  together. 
Between  the  mounds  thus  formed,  the  water  has  washed  away  the  sand, 
leaving  them  as  rocks  on  a  sandy  beach.  At  a  distance  they  look  so 
exactly  like  a  Bedawi  encampment,  that  one  reflects  whether,  like  the 
sandgrouse,  bustard,  and  many  other  animals,  the  Bedawi  has  not 
sometimes  owed  his  safety  to  the  difficulty  in  distinguishing  his  camp 
from  a  clump  of  tamarisk. 

The  wadi  winds,  but  you  ride  straight  on  to  Kasr  ol  Jin,  the  *'  fort 
of  the  evil  spirit,'*  which  is  perched  on  a  spur  of  the  hill  27  miles  north 
of  Kenneh.  This  is  the  first  Eoman  station  ;  but  there  h  little  left  but 
remains  of  massive  walls  and  deep  stuccoed  wells.  The  w^alls  of  all 
these  stations  aro  built  for  the  first  four  or  five  feet  of  large  stones, 
without  mortar,  and  the  upper  walls  of  hard  mud. 

The  intending  ti'aveller  will  be  Bared  much  trouble  by  the  map 
published  with  this  paper.  Before  starting  on  this  journey  in  May, 
1886,  I  made  the  most  careful  Inquines  I  could,  but  could  get  no 
information  that  would  stand  cross-examination.  The  watering-places 
were  many ;  but  it  was  four  yeara  since  the  last  rain  fell,  and  no  one 
knew  whether  or  not  they  were  dry.  All  that  appeared  certain  was 
that  there  was  no  water  for  a  hundred  miles,  while  the  wind  in  May 
was  very  hot,  and  always  in  our  faces.  My  caravan  started  by  itself 
with  many  wateT*tankfi,  and  I  was  independent  with  my  usual  five  or 
six  picked  fast  camels.  In  the  summer  the  sun's  declination  north  is^ 
about  equal  to  the  latitude,  and  there  is  no  atom  of  shade. 

But  the  difiSculties  were  greatly  exaggerated ;  for^  as  will  be  seen, 
there  is  at  all  times  an  ample  water  supply  within  70  miles  of  Kenneh. 
And  a  Zennoh  camel  will  carry  his  load  70  miles  in  even  the  hottest 
winds,  while  a  riding-camel  can  do  fair  work  for  five  days  without 
water. 

With  my  light  cavalry]^!  visited  all  the  water-holes  I  could  hear  of, 
making  a  specially  long  and  futile  detour  to  the  Bir  Nejllah,  ten  miles 
to  the  west  of  Kasr  el  Jin ^  but  which  I  foimd  dry  like  all  the  others. 

At  30  miles  from  Kenneh  is  tho  second  Boman  station,  called  Saghi 
or  Naka  al  Teir.  It  is  probable  that  there  was  a  station  between  Koft 
and  Kasr  el  Jin;  but  I  did  not  see  it^  and  only  count  those  I  saw. 
Kaka*al  Teir,  which  is  tho  name  of  the  district,  was  a  large 
caravansera,  much  like  the  Persian  caravansera   of  to-day.     A  large 


IN  THE  EASTERN  DESERT  OF  EGTPT.  669 

quadrangtilar  enclosrire,  stables,  and  living  rooms  all  round,  and  a  well 
or  cistern  in  the  centre.  From  the  width  of  the  cistern  it  wonld  seem 
that  the  Bomans  had  to  dig  very  deep  before  they  found  water,  but  all 
is  now  choked  with  sand. 

The  plain  for  ten  miles  north  of  Naka'al  Teir  is  an  absolutely  flat 
expanse  of  dry,  hard  mud.  And  on  a  hot  afternoon  it  is  a  very  long  ten 
miles,  for  already  at  Naka'al  Teir  the  rider  sees  the  hills  quivering 
before  him,  but  at  ten  miles'  distance  they  look  as  far  or  as  near  as  they 
do  at  one  mile. 

From  the  east  comes  a  wadi  which  joins  the  Kenneh  Wadi,  and  is 
said  to  come  from  Fatireh  and  the  quarries  of  Mons  Claudianus ;  but 
this  required  further  examination,  for  two  Roman  stations  in  the  Medisa 
valley  seem  to  indicate  that  as  the  route  taken. 

At  last;,  at  46  miles,  the  rider  enters  the  low  granite  hills  at  the  Bal 
el  Mukhanij.  The  hills  have  a  calcined  or  decayed  appearance,  like  all 
the  low  hills  which  cluster  round  the  main  range  and  loffcy  peaks  of 
comparatively  live  granite,  which  appear  to  have  been  recently  thrust 
up  through  them.  The  vegetation  increases  at  once,  and  the  now 
confined  bed  of  the  wadi  bears  the  fragrant  artemisia,  tavemiera,  and 
many  other  shrubs,  in  addition  to  the  stunted  mimosa  and  zilla  thistles 
which  have  hitherto  marked  its  course.  The  interest  of  the  ride  is  at 
once  increased  a  hundredfold ;  the  eye  is  relieved  from  the  monotonous 
waste,  and  fixed  on  the  peaks  of  Om  Sidr  and  Jebel  Dukhan,  now  looking 
cool  in  the  blue  distance. 

I  may  mention  here  a  hint  about  carrying  water  in  the  desert,  which 
has  twice  proved  of  value.  The  traveller  should  pay  great  attention  to 
an  ample  provision  of  water-skins,  insist  on  the  addition  of  one  or  two 
to  any  number  the  Bedawin  propose  to  carry,  and  display  great  anxiety 
about  their  lasting  out.  But  he  should  secretly  cany  his  own  supply 
in  strong  bottles  wrapped  in  his  blankets  in  his  servants'  saddlebags. 
I  always  carry  four  commissariat  rum-bottles.  Bedawin  are  absolute 
children  about  economising  their  water,  and  their  water-skin  is  about 
the  least  efficient  thing  that  could  be  devised  for  carrying  water  in. 
People  say  it  keeps  the  water  cool.  But  you  do  not  want  cool  water  in 
the  desert — you  want  water  and  not  an  empty  skin.  I  never  drink  on 
the  march,  except  when  I  halt  and  make  hot  tea.  On  this  occasion,  on 
the  fourth  day,  the  Bedawin  had  drunk  all  the  water;  they  did  not 
know  when  they  would  find  any  more,  and  were  ill-tempered,  and 
wanted  to  ride  back  and  meet  the  caravan.  I  gave  them  a  drink,  and 
was  amused  to  hear  one,  evidently  ignorant  of  my  temperance  habits, 
remark  to  a  servant,  **  We  knew  he  had  bottles,  but  thought  they  were 
brandy."  The  real  danger  of  thirst  is  not  to  the  man,  but  to  his  camel, 
for  if  the  camel  droops,  the  man  in  walking  soon  gets  an  intolerable 
thirst;  though  even  under  these  circumstances  a  man  can  go  on  much 
longer  than  would  be  expected. 


670 


NOTES  ON  A  SKETCH  MAP  OF  TWO  ROUTES 


Winding  along  the  avenue  of  hills,  at  52  miles,  they  open  otit  a 
littlo,  and  you  arrive  at  the  Dcir  Atrnsli,  the  Convent  of  the  Deaf  Mao. 
The  well  hero  was  38  feet  measured  down  to  the  sand,  which  at  that 
depth  choked  it.  For  the  sake  of  argnment  I  said  this  was  not  a  conyent, 
but  merely  a  station  like  Naka*al  Teir ;  but  the  Bedawin  seemed  to  have 
no  idea  of  confounding  the  one  with  the  other*  though  I  could  see  no 
difference, 

Jebel  Dukhan  Bcemed  quite  near  now%  and  a  tall  peak  to  the  north- 
east in  the  Kittar  mass  was  pointed  out  as  that  from  which  the  valley 
TJm  Yeesar,  or  Mother  of  the  Meringa  tree,  took  its  rocky  course.  A 
man  went  forward  overnight,  and  returned  in  the  morning  with  a  skin 
of  water  from  here.  I  afterwards,  while  surveying,  visited  this  place, 
and  found  it  a  grand  gloomy  gorge,  choked  with  huge  boulders,  and 
carrying  a  torrent  of  rugged  blocks  far  out  into  the  plain  to  join  the 
Kenueh  Wadi,     The  water  wras  in  the  little  nook  under  a  mass  as  large 

a  cottage,  and  a  man  could  just  squeeze  himself  under  and  reach  the 
rater  with  outstretched  arm. 

Elding  on  over  the  hard  and  gradually  rising  path  at  66  miles,  vre 
descended  into  the  broad  Kittar  valley,  which  crossed  our  path  at  right 
angles.  It  was  studded  thickly  with  big  mimosa-trees,  Bom©  20  and  30 
feet  high,  but  all  hacked  and  chopped  about.  It  seemed  piteous,  and  I 
was  inclined  to  be  angiy  at  the  destruction  of  the  few  green  trees  I  had 
found  in  my  mountains.  The  Bedawin  occupation,  and  the  only  occu- 
pation I  know  them  to  engage  in,  is  making  charcoal.  They  chop  half 
through  the  finest  branches,  and  bending  them  down,  leave  them  a 
month  or  so  to  wither.  Then  they  come,  collect  tho  boughs,  bury  them, 
burn  them,  and  carry  the  charcoal  off  to  the  Kif. 

An  important  question  was  now  to  be  solved*  The  camels  were  very 
thirsty,  and  the  question  was,  '*  la  there  water  in  the  Kittar  ?  '* 

We  turned  to, the  right  and  rode  up  the  valley,  which  was  picturesque 
and  well-wooded  as  desert  valleys  go.  We  rodo  four  miles,  and  then 
th©  valley  forked,  and  we  went  up  the  westernmost  arm,  which  every 
moment  became  steeper  and  more  choked  with  rocks,  caught  against 
which  were  piles  and  swathes  of  dead  brushwood,  evidence  of  former 
floods. 

Soon  we  dismounted,  and  led  the  stumbling  camels  over  the  rocks, 
and  at  last  I  overtook  two  men  seated  on  the  ground.  It  was  evident 
from  their  faces  that  their  troubles  were  over ;  but  1  could  see  no  welL 
I  asked,  with  assumed  indifference,  **Is  there  water?"  and  they 
answered  **  yes  "  ;  but  no  water  could  I  see.  The  torrent-bed  became 
sandy,  and  there  were  two  or  three  holes  scraped  by  hand,  but  all  were 
dry.  The  last  man  of  tho  party  had  the  wooden  bowl,  and  tho  moment 
it  arrived,  the  man  set  to  work  scraping  out  the  gravel  at  the  base  of  a 
large  upright  boulder.  In  a  very  few  moments  they  reached  the  much- 
wanted  water,  and  th^  next  ten  minutes  were  occupied  in  struggling 


IN  THE  EASTEKN  DESERT  OF  EGf  PT, 


6T1 


with  the  camels  who  betmm©  dangerouBly  haaty,  and  threatened  every 
moment  to  trample  on  us,  or  break  their  legs  bj  scrambliDg  over  the 
smooth  rocks.  They  were  watered  in  their  turn  from  a  copper  basin  of 
which  I  knew  tbe  measure,  and  in  forty-five  minutes  each  of  the  camels 
had  drunk  more  than  eighteen  gallons.  After  this  they  began  to  drink 
steadily,  and  less  like  hydropults  than  when  they  began. 

With  a  comfortable  sense  of  repletion,  we  marched  down  to  the 
fork,  and  sent  a  man  to  the  crosaing  to  warn  the  caravan  of  oar  where- 
abouts. This  man,  I  remember,  camo  back  next  morning,  reporting  that 
the  caravan  had  passed,  and  was  indigBantly  sent  on  their  tracks.  Thus 
by  sleeping  at  his  post,  he  gave  the  laden  beasts  44  miles  of  nnneceesary 
route. 

Early  next  morning  I  strolled  up  the  second  arm  of  the  ravine.  The 
air  was  cool,  scented  with  artemisia  and  the  fragrant  yessar,  and  each 
moment  the  scenery  grew  wilder  and  grander.  The  torrent  cut  a 
tortuous  channel  down  the  valley,  and  the  bed  was  sometimes  ten  and 
fifteen  feet  below  the  surface.  The  northern  flank  was  generally  a 
precipitous  cliff,  while  down  the  southern  slop©  tumbled  cascades  of 
boulders,  and  all  around  tall  rugged  peaks  stood  out  in  bold  relief 
against  the  clear  blue  sky.  The  numerous  green  mimosas,  the  yessar, 
and  other  shrubs,  which  were  dotted  thickly  along  the  vaDey,  were  most 
grateful  to  tho  eye.  The  yessar,  or  Moringa  apiera  (as  distinct  from 
the  Moringa  pierygo^iervia)^  is  a  tree  well  known  in  the  West  Indies, 
which  has  a  eluater  of  white  flowers  like  a  laburnum,  and  a  fragrant 
scent.  I  hope  I  have  succeeded  in  introducing  it  both  into  Cairo  and 
England ;  for  Mr.  Bull  of  Chelsea  showed  me  two  yonng  plants  grown 
from  seed  I  sent  him,  and  several  ar©  doing  well  in  my  garden  in  Cairo. 
Hr»  Thiselton  Dyer  writes  from  Kew,  that  it  was  probably  the  seed  of 
this  tree  which  produced  the  oil  of  Ben,  in  great  use  by  watchmakers 
before  the  introduction  of  fine  mineral  oils.  Ibex  were  evidently 
plentiful,  and  indeed  on  waking  I  had  found  three  peering  at  me  from 
the  opposite  cliff,  Tbe  ibex  ia  a  grand  animal,  and  as  he  always 
selects  his  home  in  the  wildest  and  moat  inaccessible  mountains  be  can 
find,  ibex-shooting  is  a  sport  fit  for  a  king. 

I  was  immensely  surprised  to  find  here  a  pair  of  donkeys,  with  a  young 
one,  running  in  a  semi-wild  condition.  They  belonged  to  some  Bedawin 
whom  we  met  later  on,  about  20  miles  to  the  nortb,  and  leapt  from  rock 
to  rock  with  the  agility  of  goats.  They  were  obviously  quite  unattended, 
and  had  been  here  a  long  while ;  so  it  was  evident  that  there  was  another 
watering-place  ahead  of  ua,  for  they  could  not  drink  from  the  covered 
well  which  had  refreshed  us.  But  I  little  anticipated  the  discovery  we 
were  to  make  afl  wo  climbed  over  the  rocks  which  now  obstructed  the 
gradually  narrowing  ravine.  Rounding  a  shoulder  of  the  cliff,  this  is 
what  we  saw :  Tho  ravine  was  at  an  end.  Over  the  cliff,  which  was 
about  70  feet  high,  fell  a  feathery  cascade  of  goftest  greenest  maidenhair 


672 


NOTES  ON  A  SKETCH  MAP  OF  TWO  ROUTES 


fern.  Over  tlie  green  moss,  and  through  the  clustering  sprays,  trickled 
innumerable  little  fltreamfl  of  water  into  two  crystal  pools  below,  which 
reflected  on  their  pure  surface  the  branches  of  a  Syrian  fig-tree.  Above 
were  tall  rustling  reeds  and  feathery  rushes,  and  between  the  pools  waa 
a  soft  strip  of  green  turf.  Fresh  from  nature's  hand,  our  pool  was  nnpol* 
luted  by  camels,  who  could  not  clitnb  there,  and  only  ibex  shared  our 
treasure  with  us ;  for  the  donkeys  drank  at  a  pool  some  way  off,  caused 
by  the  overflow. 

Here  was  a  delightful  end  to  onr  hot  sunny  ride.  The  friendly  cliff 
hung  lovingly  over  the  pools,  so  that  the  sun  never  came  there,  and  with 
groat  content  I  stretched  myself  on  the  turf.  Books,  meat,  and  tea  were 
always  with  me,  and  I  spent  two  Buch  delightful  days  in  that  grotto  of 
the  nymphs,  that  I  was  almost  sorry  when  it  was  announced  that  the 
caravan  had  got  up  the  valley  aa  far  as  the  camels  could  climb,  and  I 
returned  to  civilisation. 

Here  I  fixed  my  camp  for  a  month  in  the  most  picturesque  spot  I  had 
seen  since  I  left  Baluchistan.  There  was  a  grand  sweep  southward  for 
my  transit  telescope,  and  everything  was  soon  made  ready  for  the  wire 
which  should  connect  me  with  Colonel  Ardagh  in  the  observatory  at 
Cairo.  The  sun  was  hot,  but  the  air  was  pure  and  not  oppressive  until 
just  as  I  'was  starting  on  an  expedition  to  the  quarries  of  Mons  Claudianus, 
when  ten  days  of  phenomenal  heat  fell  upon  ue,  and  for  some  time  the 
thermometer  never  went  below  114^,  and  was  often  118^  throughout  the 
night.  Many  cattle  died  at  Kenneh  during  those  ten  days,  and  our 
soldiers  at  Assuan  suffered  very  much.  This  wave  of  heat  was  felt  very 
severely  in  India.  While  it  lasted,  from  the  Gth  to  the  10th  of  June,  it 
seemed  only  possible  to  explain  it  by  some  fiery  meteor  having  passed 
close  to  the  earth.  And  it  is  eas3*  to  understand  how  the  world  will 
come  to  an  end;  for  had  it  been  a  little  hotter,  all  the  animals  and  human 
beings  on  the  exposed  side  of  the  globe  must  have  perished.  It  increased 
for  four  days,  and  some  of  my  people  ran  off  to  the  sea-ooast ;  but  after  a 
week  it  gradually  got  a  little  cooler.  It  w  as  discouraging  preparation 
for  our  expeditioD  to  Mons  Claudianus,  which  was  an  unknown  distance ; 
but  still  it  was  fortunate  that  wo  had  arrived  at  the  Kittar  waterfall 
before  it  commenced. 

The  tents  were  pitched  on  a  beach  between  the  side  of  the  valley  and 
the  torrent-bed.  A  flat  granite  rock,  on  which  we  used  to  dine,  and 
which  is  inscribed  with  the  year,  marks  the  spot  for  which  the  loDgitude 
is  calculated.  The  silence  in  the  hot  noonday  ^vas  most  impressivo;  the 
rocks  seemed  to  sing  in  the  noonday  heat,  though  this  was  perhaps  a 
singing  in  my  ears ;  and  in  the  evening  ibex  picked  their  way  down  the 
cliff  to  the  water,  and  regarded  us  no  more  than  if  we  had  been  petrified. 
Silence  and  sleep  all  around  almost  suggested  that  the  world  was  not 
yet  created.  It  might  have  been  an  enchanted  valley,  the  nymphs 
proper  to  the  maidenhair  pool  being  asleep  in  one  of  the  weird  caverns 


IN  THE  IL^STERH  DESERT  OF  EGYPT. 


673 


wliicli  abounded  in  tlie  mountain  side.  But  in  the  night  all  the  jians  and 
efreets  of  Arah  story  were  around  us.  Every  cliff  and  crag  gave  forth 
gbostly  and  niyaterioua  noises,  which  I  never  could  explain.  Of  one 
110186,  however,  which  astonished  me  very  much,  I  diddiac^^ver  the  cause. 
From  the  apparently  unhrokeo  face  of  a  cliff,  not  a  hundred  jarde  from 
the  camp,  would  arise  suddenly  the  most  vigorous  (Quacking,  as  of 
hundreds  of  ducks.  This,  after  much  wondering  and  watching,  I  dis- 
covered to  he  a  colony  of  hyraxes  who  lived  in  a  crevice  which  could  not 
bo  seen  from  helow.  It  is  no  wonder  that  the  Bedawin  people  the  dark- 
ness with  jinns  and  ghoeta.  I  should  eurely  have  belioTed  in  them 
myself,  had  I  stayed  much  longer  in  the  Kittar  valley. 

A  description  of  the  Kittar  torrent  'w^ll  serve  for  many  similar 
torrenta  which  rive  tho  mountains,  and  deposit  in  their  caverns  and 
crevaesea  the  store  of  water  which  makes  this  country  habi table.  No 
Bedawi  will  speak  of  them  until  their  discovery  is  incTitable,  and  Major 
Bundle,  in  his  daring  reconnaissance  to  AbiiHammad  during  tho  Soudan 
^xpediHon,  found  large  natural  reservoirs  of  delicious  ivater  which  have 
remained  unknown  to  hundreds  of  travellers  across  the  Eorosko-Abu 
Hammad  desert,  though  they  have  all  filled  their  skins  from  a  brackish 
supply  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood. 

Climbing  up  round  the  side  of  the  waterfall,  yon  arrive  on  a  broad» 
smooth,  sloping  plateau,  riven  in  several  directions  by  giant  fissures^  of 
which  the  Kittar  valley  is  one.  Near  the  top  of  the  waterfall  is  a 
building,  roofless,  but  otherwise  in  good  repair,  which  Wilkinson  de- 
scribes as  a  church,  having  copied  from  it  an  inscription  in  Greeks  which, 
though  mutilated,  translates  as  follows : — '*  Flavins  Juliua,  tho  renowned 
governor  of  the  Thebaid,  built  this  Catholic  church  in   the   time   of 

,  Bishop  of  Maximianopolis/'     Close  by  is  a  lovely  pool  of  clear 

water,  full  of  tall  rushes  and  long  grass,  a  young  date-tree,  and  two  or 
three  Syrian  figs.  It  may  have  been  a  chapel  for  a  summer  retreat  for 
the  monks  of  Deirel  Atrush,  20  miles  away. 

Across  the  top  of  the  waterfall  is  a  curious  natural  bridge,  formed  by 
a  slab  of  gmnite,  and  then  for  a  few  hundred  yards  the  floor  of  the  broad 
ravin©  is  polished  smooth  during  years  of  attrition  by  the  gravel  carried 
by  the  torrents.  Further  up  are  more  clumps  of  long  grass,  and  water 
reappears.  Further  again  the  polished  granite  is  worn  into  deep  rounded 
pits  full  of  water,  and  these  form  the  sources  of  the  waterfall*  This 
water  escapes  through  the  cracks,  and  when  I  visited  the  waterfall  in 
December,  I  was  surprised  to  find  that,  though  there  had  been  no  rain, 
the  pool  at  the  base  had  increased  and  spread  many  yards  beyond  its 
hot-weather  limits,  which,  I  think,  is  aocoimted  for  by  the  fact  that  the 
rocks  swell  in  the  heat,  and  narrow  the  fissures  through  which  the  water 
passes.  The  great  stone  rcBervoirs  thus  emit  their  treasure  sparingly 
i  a  the  summer  and  more  bountifully  in  the  winter. 

The  ravine  stretches  up  to  the  mountain  slope,  and  the  neck,  or 


674 


KOTES  ON  A  SKETCH  MAP  OF  TWO  KOUTES 


divide^  from  whicli  it  takes  ito  descent^  is  a  long  three  hours*  climb  up. 
From  this  ridge,  which  ig  4560  feet  ahove  the  sea,  can  be  seen  a  wide 
view  of  the  surrounding  country*  Away  to  the  south-west  is  a  broad 
expanse  of  desert  with  patches  of  low,  Hack  foot-hills,  which  I  described 
at  Bab  e!  Mekanij,  and  which,  from  the  summit,  looked  like  pine  forests. 
In  the  distance  are  tbo  MedamQd  bills,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Nile, 
while  to  the  north-east  are  the  mountains  behind  Tor  on  the  east  coast 
of  the  Red  Sea,  From  the  divide  the  surrounding  peaks  seem  to  be 
from  500  to  1000  feet  higher.  Down  the  further  side  runs  the  Medisa 
ravine.  All  these  hills  are  rather  steep,  and  difficult  climbing,  and  there 
are  many  places  where  the  foot  slippiDg  or  overbalancing  after  a  spring 
might  produce  very  serious  consequences.  The  water  makes  some  fin© 
leaps,  and  has  polished  itself  some  grand  basins  in  the  granite,  much  of 
which  is  red  on  this  side.  The  lips  of  the  basins  are  encrusted  with 
carbonate  of  limej  and  the  Medisa  water  does  not  make  good  tea  or 
coffee. 

It  is  a  stiflf  climb  down  of  four  hours  from  the  ridge  to  the  Medisa 
glen,  where  is  always  a  plentiful  supply  of  water,  both  in  a  natural 
reservoir  with  steep  sides  and  full  of  green  watercresses^  and  from  holes 
scraped  in  the  gravelly  bed  above.  Camels  are  brought  up  to  the 
Medisa  water,  and  I  think  tbat  it  is  the  hardest  piece  of  climbing  they 
ever  do,  Nor  do  all  make  the  journey  safely.  One  was  standing  at 
the  foot  with  a  broken  leg,  waiting  <3^uietly  to  be  eateo  by  jackals  and 
vultures. 

From  the  Medisa  an  hour's  easy  climbing  takes  you  clear  of  the 
bills  into  the  pretty  Medisa  park,  where  are  massive  remains  of  a 
Boman  station,  and  where  I  pitched  my  camp  in  the  winter  of  1880. 

If,  however,  you  follow  the  windings  of  the  Medisa  ravine,  you 
will  paes  other  large  basins,  one  especially  large  one  overgrown  with 
calamus,  or  Arab  pen -reed,  which  bad  only  dried  up  in  the  summer 
of  1886. 

From  the  well  in  the  North  fork,  where  we  watered  on  our  first 
arrival,  is  a  steep  climb  of  three  hours  to  tbe  divide,  which  is  3910  feet, 
and  tbenco  another  three  hours  brings  you  to  the  beautiful  Kohila 
watering-place.  A  dark  and  gloomy  fissure  leads  into  the  heart  of  the 
mountain,  and  contains  a  ribbon  of  deep  water  about  6  feet  wide. 
Below  the  mouth  is  a  red  granite  basin,  and  in  order  to  -water  camels, 
which  can  approach  from  the  ravine,  the  men  pour  the  water  down  the 
slope^n  fact,  put  tho  waterfall  into  action. 

From  tho  Kohila  water  it  is  a  climb  of  three  hours  down  the  ravine 
to  the  "  Three  Yessar  "  fork,  a  clump  of  three  exceptionally  fine  moringa* 
trees,  which  forms  a  useful  landmark  on  the  road  from  Medisa  to  Fatira, 
and  five  hours  hence  is  the  Medisa  Park,  at  the  debouchement  of  the 
ravine  of  that  name.  Eight  miles  round  tho  flank  of  the  mountain,  and 
across  the  torrents  of  boulders  which  pour  down  from  its  side,  briBg 


I 


J 


rN  THE  EASTERN  DESERT  OF  EGYPT. 


675 


yoii  to  the  valley,  and  thence  it  is  six  miles  to  the  camp  by  the 
waterfall. 

The  three  watering-places  deBcribed  ia  the  Kittar  mountains— also  a 
large  well  to  be  described  later  on— cati  all  withstand  many  years  of 
drought,  and,  so  far  as  I  can  learn,  never  dry  np.  At  Kittar,  the  only 
place  where  the  original  source  could  be  examined,  former  water-marks 
showed  a  gradual  sinking  of  the  auppl3%  but  at  Kohila  and  Medisa  no 
eiich  marks  are  visible,  and  I  think  that  they  are  refilled  as  they  waste 
from  hidden  reservoirs. 

In  the  neighbourhocMi  of  these  water-holes  are  many  rude  shelterB, 
constructed  by  the  younger  Bedawin,  and  from  which  they  fire  at  the 
ibex  coming  to  water.  Besides  these  are  soMctimes  found  small  stone 
huts  of  the  shape  of  bee-hives,  about  4  feet  high,  and  with  a  small  door. 
I  cannot  explain  what  these  were  for,  unless  the  Bedawin  kept  young 
goats  in  them  at  night,  which  those  with  me  thought  unlikely. 

"Where  what  we  may  call  the  high  road  crosses  the  Kittar  valley  is 
a  small  Boman  station.  Starting  from  hero,  the  valley  ascends  still  for 
miles  up  to  a  bold  cliff,  which  I  have  called  the  70  Bluff,  It  was  visible 
for  many  hours  before  I  reached  it^  and  always  bore  70*^  on  tho  prismatic 
compass.  Here  is  the  water-parting  1800  feet  above  the  sea.  Following 
the  broad,  almost  straight,  valley  on  the  right,  are  the  live  granite 
peaks  of  Kittar  and  Munfia*,  while  immediately  on  the  left  are  the  low 
foot-hills,  and  behiod  them  Jebel  Bukhan.  At  six  miles  is  a  piece  of 
the  ancient  Roman  road,  swept  of  shingle,  and  defined  on  either  side  by 
heaps  of  stones.  At  eight  miles  you  turn  to  the  north  into  the  foot- 
hills, and  at  nine  miles  you  reach  the  Bad  la'  well.  This  is  a  large  hole 
scraped  in  the  valley  bed,  and  supplies  the  water  taken  from  it  so 
rapidly  that  a  hundred  camels  can  be  watere<l  at  it.  I  oould  not  hear 
that  it  ever  ran  dry.  Here  is  a  large  station  and  several  smaller  ones, 
and  a  steep  path  leads  over  tho  hill  to  the  valley,  where  the  main  Eoman 
town  and  quaixies  of  porphyry  are  situated.  Tho  ancient  porphyry 
workings  have  recently  been  examined  by  Mr.  Brimlley,  who  has 
obtained  a  concession  for  workiug  them  from  His  Higliness'  govern- 
ment. 

From  Badia'  well  the  road  soon  clears  the  foot-hills,  and  strikes  north 
over  a  vast  sloping  plain  covered  with  coarse  shingle.  Here  for  the 
first  time  is  found  the  Salvadora  Perstcaj  a  shrub  which  in  Persia  indicates 
water  underground.  It  spreads  its  twisted  branches  over  the  surface  of 
the  ground  until  it  has  accumulated  a  heap  of  sand,  when  it  shoots 
upwards,  and  its  haid  bright- green  leaves  form  a  fairly  nourishing 
camel  fodder*  In  Persia  it  is  called  toof,  or  quince,  of  which  fruit  the 
bark  has  a  strong  soent.  Muslims  make  teothbrushes  of  sticks  of  this 
shrub,  which  was  so  employed  by  the  Prophet. 

On  the  right  a  few  stunted  mimosas  show  the  winding  track  of  a 
wadi  which  has  eaten  a  path  through  two  ranges  of  hills  to  the  sea. 

No.  XL— Nov.  1887.]  3  a 


676 


NOTES  ON  A  SKETCH  MAP  OF  TWO  ROUTES 


At  24  miles  from  Badla*  the  path  passes  throngb  a  low  limestone 
rit3g6  full  of  flint  nodiileB,  and  impregnated  with  petroleum.  A  little 
farther  is  a  parallel  range  of  primary  rocks,  and  between  these  ranges, 
and  in  tb©  track  of  the  wadi,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  places  on 
the  route.  It  hears  now  only  the  generic  Arab  term  **  mellaha/'  or  salt- 
place  ;  and  Lepsiue^  who  passed  here  in  1B42,  suggests  that  it  may  be 
the  Fons  Tadnos  of  Pliny.  Here  has  been  once  a  large  flourishing  date- 
grove,  probably  much  cultivation,  and  a  large  population;  but  all  is  now 
ti  scene  of  miserable  desolation.  It  would  appear  that  the  torrent  of 
fresh  water,  of  which  traces  are  seen  along  the  route,  was  once  held  np 
by  the  granite  range  through  which  it  now  winds  down  a  deep  and 
picturesque  ravine.  The  water  probably  many  hnodred  years  ago  cut 
down  to  a  stratum  of  rock-siilt,  and  has  since  then  poisoned  all  the- 
vegetation,  and  covered  all  the  neighbourhood  with  a  greasy  mud  and 
salt  efflorescence.  Some  years  ago  I  described  a  spot  of  desolation- 
arising  from  similar  causes  in  the  Lashuri  desert  of  Baluchistan,  and 
called  Marn,  or  bitterness.  But  at  Mani  the  desolation  was  complete 
and  hopeless.  At  Mellaha  hope  revived  every  spring,  and  was  crashed 
again  every  autumn.  Each  date- tree  pushed  a  few  Btn^ggling  fronds,, 
only  to  droop  as  soon  as  grown  under  the  combined  poison  of  salt-water 
and  burning  sun.  This  had  been  going  on  for  perhaps  400  jears,  and 
each  living  trunk  was  surrounded  by  five  or  six,  and  even  eight  or  teifc 
prostrate  predecessors,  who  had  given  up  the  struggle  and  lay  nn- 
trimmed,  each  with  sixty  years  of  fronds  round  it,  reduced  to  fibre  by 
the  action  of  the  salt,  which,  while  it  dissolved  the  softer,  preserved  tlie- 
tougher  parte. 

Some  green  tamarisk  bushes  struggle  about  among  the  date-trees,  and 
there  are  masses  of  rushes  and  tall  feathery  reeds.  On  the  north  side- 
is  what  I  call,  under  correction,  the  remains  of  a  short  canal  now  full  of 
salt-water  and  overgrown  with  tall  reeds.  I  could  find  no  vestiges 
of  habitations,  but  the  efflorescence  covered  everything,  even  a  stick 
thrown  down  for  24  hours  rendered  any  discovery  impossible  except 
by  excavation.  It  was  by  accident  that  I  found  that  there  was  a 
ravine  through  the  hitls,  for  the  ordinary  road  lies  through  a  pas* 
three  mike  to  the  northward.  One  evening,  while  waiting  for  dinner,  I 
went  for  a  stroll  to  the  foot  of  the  granite  range.  Singing  loudly  aa 
I  went,  I  suddenly  became  aware  of  five  ibex  earnestly  regarding  me^ 
from  a  low  spur,  snorting  and  butting  in  my  direction.  The  moment  I 
stopped  singing  they  retired^  but  came  forw^ard  when  I  began  again. 

Quitting  the  role  of  Orpheus,  I  was  on  the  ground  next  morniog^ 
with  my  riile  at  ahout  an  hour  before  daylight,  and  in  the  hunt  I  traced 
the  ravine  which  is  about  two  miles  long,  and  a  hundred  yards  broad. 
It  is,  for  the  most  part,  steep  on  the  south  and  sloping  on  the  north 
bido.  Some  few  date-trees  have  been  washed  down  from  MeDaha,  and 
a  considerable  stream   of  salt-water  ripples  along,  eometimea  above 


IN  THE  EASTERN  DESERT  OF  EGYPT. 


677 


ground  and  somotimes  making  a  maTsh  over  the  whole  valley,  which  is 
then  full  of  tamarisk  and  green  rnshee. 

Biding  down  the  slope  towards  the  bay  of  Jimseh,  you  cross  at 
right  angles  an  old  Roman  road  leading  to  Abu  ShaV,  which  is  on  or 
near  the  aito  of  the  ancient  port  of  Myos  Hormoa.  The  road  is  dis- 
tinctly marked  by  being  cleared  of  stones  which  are  piled  in  regular 
heaps  at  the  side. 

The  route  now  skirte  the  bay  of  Jimaeh,  the  peninsula  of  which  is 
of  coral  and  limestone  formation,  and  which  is  interesting  as  having 
jnelded  some  small  quantities  of  sulphur  and  petroleum,  of  which  latter 
the  Government  hope  to  procure  a  larger  supply. 

Herr  Oscar  Schneider  has  published  a  long  account  of  the  sulphur 
workings,  and  I  think  shows  that  the  concession  was  obtained  from  the 
Eg>"ptian  govemmeDt  as  a  ground  on  which  to  establish  litigation  and 
claima  for  compensation,  for  the  sulphur  was  produced  at  a  cost  three 
times  greater  than  the  sulphur  from  Sicily,  and  a  claim  for  21  million 
francs  was  made. 

Eeturning  across  tlie  neck  of  the  Jimseh  peninsula,  and  striking 
north  along  tlio  sea-shore  or  over  undulating  and  broken  shingly 
ground,  25  miles  takes  us  to  Jebel  Zeit,  the  oil  mountain,  where  is  the 
wooden  town  of  the  petroleum  miners.  A  paragraph  in  the  Times  early 
in  August  stated  that  at  a  depth  of  1200  feet  very  favourable  indications 
had  been  reached,  but  the  great  central  reservoir  from  which  the  entire 
neighbourhood  had  boen  saturated  had  not  yet  been  reached. 

In  order  to  describe  the  route  down  the  axis  of  the  mountain  range, 
I  will  return  straight  to  Medisa,  and  thence  take  a  fresh  departure. 

Leaving  Medisa  Park,  the  route  curves  round  the  huge  bluff,  and 
enters  the  hills  up  a  picturesque  valley,  flanked  on  either  side  by  such 
regular  buttressed  walls  of  cliff  as  to  suggest  passing  up  the  aisle  of 
some  great  cathedral.  The  valley  is  green  with  shrubs,  and  here  and 
there  smoked  and  blackened  patches  of  rock  suggest  that  the  giants 
have  been  roasting  a  half-dozen  camels  for  supper,  though  the  charred 
appearance  is  explained  by  the  manufacture  of  charcoal. 

At  the  Three  Yessar  Trees  the  valley  forks,  the  left  hand  leading  to 
the  Eohila  water*  On  the  right  are  the  purple  Abu-Hassan  mountains, 
and  rounding  the  north-eastern  angle  of  these,  we  ride  up  the  broad 
Huaahid  or  Rusliaidi  valley  in  which  some  twenty  camels  are  grazing 
under  the  charge  of  some  well-armed  Bedawin,  who  are  recognised 
with  triumph  by  those  with  me  as  Ababdi,  though  far  north  of  their 
established  boundary.  I  travelled  this  route  both  in  June  and  in 
January.  The  former  journey  I  will  not  describe,  for  though  I  made  a 
rough  survey  of  the  route,  and  took  the  necessary  observations  for 
altitude  and  latitude,  still  it  was  mere  labour  from  the  excessive  heat 
which  I  have  before  mentioned. 

On  the   6th  of  January,  aa  we  left  th©  Three  Tessars,   a  name 

3  B  2 


678 


KOTES  ON  A  SKETCH  MAP  OF  TWO  HOtTTES 


suggestive  of  wayside  eitabliahmenta  at  home,  thunder  was  growling  in 
the  mountains  and  echoing  a  thousand  roars  from  cliff  to  cliff.  Rain 
fellj  and  soon  we  were  riding  in  a  heavy  shower  which  settled  into  a 
steady  downpour.  The  effect  on  the  camel  saddles  was  tinpleasant,  for 
tbey  were  sewn  together  with  leather  tbonge  which  quickly  etretched» 
while  the  shaggy,  purple-dyod  sheepskins  on  which  we  sat  gave  up  the 
colour  most  freely-  The  themiouieter  fell  to  50"^  Fahr.,  and  we  enjoyed 
more  or  less  a  regular  English  wet  afternoon.  The  camp  had  been 
started  off  to  find  its  way  to  Luxor,  so  towards  evening  wo  crept  under 
a  huge  boulder  at  the  foot  of  the  cliff.  I  lay  awake  reading  until  late, 
as  I  was  waiting  for  a  Bedawi,  who  was  bringing  me  a  bag  of  gold 
from  Cairo.  Suddenly  came  a  splashing  rush  of  water  from  overhead, 
and  almost  in  a  moment  the  falJs  of  Lodore  were  upon  us.  Within  a 
foot  of  where  wo  lay  was  quickly  a  leaping  frothy  torrent,  and  the 
muve  qm  pmt  was  amusiug ;  for  most  uf  us  had  undressed  to  dry  our  wet 
clothes,  and  in  the  scanty  lamplight  the  water  seemed  everywhere,  and 
men  bounced  in  all  directions,  and  fell  over  each  other  and  everything 
in  laughing  suTprise. 

The  suddenness  with  which  water  comes  down  is  explained  as 
follows,  as  I  once  saw : — The  water  on  four  broad  mountain  slopes 
converged.  One  ran  freely,  but  three  carried  so  much  ibex  dung,  dead 
shrubs,  and  twigs,  that  they  damme<l  themselves.  One  held  up  a 
considerable  head  of  water,  and  in  bursting,  loosened  the  eecond,  and 
quickly  the  third,  when  they  all  poured  tumultuously  down  together. 

We  were  wet  that  night,  but  in  the  moruing  a  fresh  surprise  awaited 
us.  When  w©  woke  we  were  covered  with  snow.  The  valley  was  a 
network  of  running  streams,  but  the  bushes  wore  covered  with  white. 
The  gixat  Jebel  Shaib  took  upon  himself  the  appearance  of  the  Matter- 
horn,  and  an  old  grey-beard,  a  long  time  comrade,  hastened  up  swelling 
with  pride  and  chattering  with  cold  to  explain  to  the  ignorant  English- 
man what  had  happened  to  his  beloved  mountains,  *'  You  see/*  he 
said,  "  those  soft  white  clouds ;  when  it  became  cold,  those  clouds  came 
80  low  down  that  they  were  caught  upon  the  mountains  and  upon  the 
trees;  I  have  seen  Jebel  Shaib  white  before." 

In  the  morning  we  went  through  a  pass  at  the  head  of  the  valley, 
and  skirted  the  northern  and  uppermost  edge  of  a  broad  sandy  plateau. 
To  the  left,  past  Jebel  Shaib,  leads  the  road  to  the  Jiojeh^  or  precipice- 
It  was  ly  this  road  that  the  harassed  and  weary  HeiT  Lepsios  escaped 
on  to  the  plains  in  1842,  after  he  and  his  caravan  had  wandered  aim- 
lessly on  the  mountains  for  two  days. 

Precipice  is,  however,  too  large  a  word  to  describe  the  defile  on  the 
north  flank  of  Shaib,  by  which  descent  is  made  to  the  plain  of  Munfia\ 
1  should  have  ridden  down  it  in  June  had  I  not  wished  to  note  the 
behaviour  of  a  new  aneroid  barometer  I  had  received,  and  I  may  mention 
here  that  the  aneroid,  an  excellent  one  by  Elliott,  did  not  move  ai  all 


IN  THE  EASTERN  DESERT  OF  EGYPT, 


679 


during  the  whole  descent  of  800  feet,  but  that  during  the  three  hours* 
ride  over  the  ehruhby  plain  to  the  well  under  the  Munfia*  hills,  it 
recovered  its  position,  and  accurately  marked  the  difference  in  altitude. 

The  Munfia'  valley  is  a  good  pasturage  for  the  Ma  aza,  who  in  June 
had  a  fin©  flock  of  sheep  there,  and  dug  a  large  well  and  planted  gome 
twenty  date-palms.  Hassan,  the  sheikh  of  that  settlement,  complained 
bitterly  that  the  jealous  men  of  the  Kif  would  not  sell  them  young  date- 
palms,  and  he  had  been  obliged  to  obtain  his  from  the  small-producing 
trees  of  Kufra*  Donkeys,  of  which  he  had  a  few,  required  water  daily, 
aheep  and  goats  every  second  day,  and  camels  every  third  day. 

To  return  to  the  route  after  skirting  the  plain,  w©  enter  the  Fatira 
valley  and  ride  down  it.  About  three  miles  to  the  east  lies  the  mountain 
of  Um  Anab,  or  mother  of  grapes.  Here  is  a  curious  water  supply* 
The  path  to  it  leads  over  the  east  side  of  the  Watli  Fatira  into  a]  deep 
ravine.  From  this  you  climb  up  a  long  sleep  valley,  almost  shut  in  at 
the  top  by  rocks.  Here  on  the  ridge  are  two  round  holes  which  in  June, 
and  so  far  as  I  could  learn  alwaye,  were  brimful  of  sweet  water.  I 
arrived  there  at  noon,  when  many  thousands  of  sand-grouse  wer& 
circling  round,  impatient  to  drink,  and  quite  fearless  from  thirst. 
Unlike  pigeons,  sand-grouse  cannot  drink  on  the  wing,  and  this 
wateriDg-place,  where  they  can  walk  up  to  the  brink,  serves  the  grouse 
for  many  miles,  who  ainnot  drink  from  water  enclosed  by  cliffs. 

At  twenty-one  miles  the  valley  turns  to  the  west,  and  we  strike  up 
a  steep  and  narrow  path  over  the  hille  to  the  west,  see  some  stone  pDlars 
lying  about,  and  at  last  halt  near  the  ancient  square  fort,  in  which  lived 
the  quarrymen  who  excavated  the  granite  from  Mons  Claudianua* 

Her©  were  very  extensive  qiiarrieB  of  grey  or  blue  and  whit©  granite. 
A  low  mound  of  granite  about  8  or  10  acres  in  extent  and  100  feet  high 
has  been  cut  and  removed  in  huge  blocks-  One  pillar  which  lay  ready 
for  removal,  but  cracked,  weighed  256  tons.  Perhaps  in  two  or  thro© 
vnnters  it  could  have  been  rolled  down  the  Wadi  Fatira  and  embarked 
at  Kenneh,  but  I  think  that,  having  convict  labour  at  his  disposal,  the 
master  mason  sometimes  launched  out  in  a  specially  large  pillar,  leaving 
it  to  tho  purchaser  to  carry  away  if  he  could.  The  metbod  of  excavation 
was  the  same  as  was  used  at  Assuan  and  elsewhere  in  Egypt,  wedges 
were  driven  in  at  close  intervals  along  the  desired  line  of  fracture; 
inclined  planes  led  from  tho  hill  to  the  valley,  and  along  either  side 
stand  the  pillars  or  towers  of  large  stones  which  were  used  as  purchases 
for  covering  the  blocks.  At  one  place  was  a  stage  from  which  blocks 
were  loaded  on  carts.  Tho  tov^Ti,  which  was  contained  in  four  high 
walls,  is  completely  in  ruins,  but  the  plastered  walls  of  baths  and  tanks 
remain.  Close  by  were  the  remains  of  a  temple  built,  as  would  appear 
from  the  remains  of  an  inscription,  by  the  Epaphr<Mitos,  who  commenced 
the  construction  of  the  temple  at  Mons  Porphyrites, 

A  ruined  wall,  evidently  an  aqueduct,  from  two  to  four  feet  high, 


680 


NOTES  ON  A  SKETCH  MAP  OF  TWO  ROUTES,  ETC. 


according  to  the  inequalities  of  the  gix)Tiiid,  runs  about  half  a  mile  down 
the  valley  and  round  a  hill,  behind  Tvhich  is  a  deep  brick-built  well,  a 
mined  encloaure,  and  a  tall  tower  which  I  suppose  to  have  been  used  for 
raising  the  water.  Close  by  is  a  building  which  may  have  been  part  of 
the  Roman  establishment,  but  which  I  incline  to  think  was  a  monastery 
built  after  the  quaiTies  were  abandoned,  but  while  the  water  supply 
held  good. 

Um  Digal,  or  the  mother  of  pillars,  was  the  appropriate  name  given 
by  the  Bedawin  to  these  quarriea  which  show  work  that  might  have 
occupied  for  two  or  three  hundred  years  the  number  of  people  which 
could  Live  in  the  fori  Leaving  Um  Digal  we  crossed  a  wadi  running 
west  into  the  Wadi  FatTra,  aod  struggling  up  its  southern  bank  we 
climbed  over  into  the  head  of  the  long  Abu  Dok  ravinCj  which  TxmB 
south-west  towards  Kenneh,  Two  miles  from  the  head  of  the  ravine  a 
tributary  enters  from  the  north.  Xear  the  junction  are  some  deep  holes 
which  would  retain  water  for  perhaps  two  or  three  years*  Here  were 
ruined  buildings,  and  one  approached  by  a  broad  flight  of  steps  seenaed 
to  be  a  temple* 

It  was  in  the  grey  dawn  of  January  7th  that  we  climbed  up  the 
ragged  south  bank  of  Abu  Dok,  rode  through  a  few  broken  hills, 
and  emerged  on  a  broad  level  plain  2400  feet  above  the  sea.  The  air 
was  raw  and  cold,  the  camels'  breath  floated  steamy  in  the  frosty  air. 
Due  north  Jebol  Shaib  with  his  snow  mantle  stood  stem  and  silent.  In 
the  east  a  cheerless  sun  struggled  with  heavy  clouds,  which  reddened 
slowly,  as  if  willing  to  preserve  as  long  as  possible  the  unaccustomed 
appearance.  Silent  and  wrapped-up  closely  we  moved  noiselessly  out 
on  tJie  plain,  and  here  was  a  pretty  sight.  Picking  their  way  down  a 
neighbouring  ravine  to  our  left  came  a  little  herd  of  ibex ;  a  little  brook 
ran  across  their  path,  and  while  they  dallied  with  the  water  they  sud- 
denly became  awai'e  of  us,  all  of  them  turning  their  handsome  heads  at 
exactly  the  same  moment.  They  showed  no  fear,  but  great  curiosity. 
Far  away  to  the  south  lay  range  behind  range,  and  a  tall  mass  called 
the  Missika  Hill  was  the  mark  we  aimed  for.  Across  the  broad  plain 
we  passed  through  more  low  hills,  and  dropped  into  the  Wadi  Abu  Shia' 
— "  the  &.ther  of  wormwood,**  the  strong-iscented  bushes  of  which  filled 
the  valley.  Abu  Shla'  is,  like  Abu  Dok  and  Fatira,  a  large  artery  running 
south-west,  and  we  followed  it  down  to  its  junction  with  a  third,  which 
carried  away  the  water  from  the  Missika  group  of  hUls.  Crossing  the 
triangle  of  low  hills,  we  entered  the  narrow  winding  portal  of  Missika. 
The  east  cliff  is  dovetailed  into  the  west,  and  the  walls  on  either  side 
are  almost  sheer  perpendicular.  Hence  the  road  ascends  slightly  for 
four  miles  to  the  divide  at  I960  feet  above  the  sea.  Two  miles  south  of 
the  divide  the  road  tuins  sharp  round  the  Jiddama  bluffs,  and  in  order 
to  find  the  water  we  follow  the  valley  which  collects  the  di*ainage  from 
north,  east,  and  south. 


I 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


egi: 


Jiddama  is  both  intereatiug  and  weirdly  picturesque.  The  gorge  or 
throat  of  the  raountaina  ia  of  blood-red  stone,  cavernous  and  gloomy. 
I^or  is  Bedftwin  legend  wanting  to  add  romance  to  the  interest  excited 
by  the  rugged  scenery. 

The  throat  is  narrow  and  windings  and  descends  by  a  steep  granite 
step,  up  which  an  active  camel  might  be  forced,  but  which  is  impassable 
for  any  loaded  camel.  Here  water  is  always  found,  and  the  Bedawin 
have  been  at  great  troiible  to  sci-ape  holes  in  the  sandy  bed  and  build 
them  round  with  rude  but  efficient  masonry.  But  the  chief  interest 
arises  from  the  fact  that  hero  is  the  boundary,  not  arrived  at  until  after 
many  bloody  encounters  between  the  Ababdi  and  the  Ma*aza. 

From  Jiddama  the  road  rune  south-east  to  the  south  side  of  the  Eridia 
hills,  and  at  5  miles  from  the  water  18  the  divide,  2130  feet,  and  the  road 
is  choked  by  low  hills*  At  15  miles  you  strike  into  the  Atalla  hills,  and 
find  by  a  dry  watering-place  an  mhera  or  Cahiropia  gigantea,  the  Persian 
diraMt  ahruhum  or  silk-tree,  the  Hindustani  ^nudar^  and  the  Baluchi 
zahren  karrag  or  bitter  flower.  This  tree  is  rarel}^  seen  away  from  sandy 
deserts,  and  seemed  a  strange  visitor  in  the  rugged  valley  where  it  stood. 
Hence  is  a  straight  nm  down  the  broad  smooth  Wadi  AtoUa,  At  22  miles 
from  Jiddama  the  Wadi  Esshay  joins  from  the  north-east,  and  three  miles 
further  we  cross  the  Hnssafa  road  between  Kenneh  and  Kosseir,  Down 
the  Meeigh-el-Bagar  we  rode  to  Hammamat,  now  upon  familiar  ground. 
I^ext  moruing  we  sped  away  to  the  west  j  hardly  halted  at  El  Uaita,  but 
pressed  on ;  saw  the  glorious  sunset  in  the  evergreen  Nile  valley ;  and 
'dined  in  the  evening  with  the  tourists  at  the  Luxor  Hotel. 


GEOGBAPHICAL  NOTES, 

Bev.  G.  GrenfelL— In  a  recent  letter,  Mr.  Grenfell  informs  us  that 
fie  hopes  to  be  in  England  again  early  next  year  and  give  the  Society 
hh  promised  paper  on  his  Congo  explorations.  His  departure  from 
England  in  Angust  last  was  very  sudden ;  ho  says,  "  the  news  of 
Comber's  death  had  not  been  received  more  than  four  hours  when  I 
commenced  to  pack  up  in  readiness  for  the  voyage,"  His  map  of  a 
portion  of  the  river,  including  the  Kwango,  will  accompany  the  paper. 
His  colleague,  Mr.  Bentley,  had  just  returned  from  an  interesting  land 
journey  to  the  south-east  of  Stanley  Pooh 

Oxford  Uiiiversity  Extension  Lectures  for  1887-8. —  We  learn  from 
Oxford  that  Geography  is  to  form  one  of  the  chief  subjects  in  the  courses 
of  instruction  given  under  the  extension  scheme  during  the  season,  October 
1887  to  April  1888,  nofr  commencing.  Eleven  conrBea,  comprising 
eighty-eight  lectures  on  this  subject,  have  been  aft^nged,  with  Mr.  H*  J. 
Mackinder  as  lecturer.    It  is  expected  that  the  conrses  will  be  attended 


682 


QEOGRiLPHICAL  KOTZa 


by  2700  Btiidenta,  and  they  will  be  delivered  at  EnSeld,  Timbridge 
Wollfij  Worksop,  Leek»  Barnslcy,  Barnaley  Dietrict,  Ashbourne,  Banbury, 
Bath,  Bath  College,  and  Taunton, 

AseeEt  of  KiUmanjaro* — ^As  will  be  seen  in  our  Report  of  the 
Proceedings  of  the  Geographical  Society  of  Berlin,  Dr.  A.  Meyer,  of 
Leipzig,  succeeded  in  August  last  in  ascending  Kilimanjaro  to  the 
glacier-walled  crater  aummit  of  Kibo,  and  explored  the  volcanic  plateau 
which  lies  between  Kibo  and  Kimawenzi,  Mr.  Johnston,  as  will  be 
remembered,  ascended  to  over  1G,000  feet,  and  estimated  the  height  of 
Kibo  at  18,800  feet.    Dr.  Meyer  believes  the  height  to  be  19,680  feet. 

The  Forests  of  Timis* — Mr.  1\  B.  Sand  with,  British  ConHid  at  Tunis,  has 
recently  prei>arcd  a  special  re{xjrt  on  the  fores  ta  of  the  conn  try,  which  has  been 
pubhshed  by  the  Foreign  Office  (No*  63).  These  forests,  which  cover  aa  ap- 
preciable part  of  the  eurfaoe  of  Tunis,  were,  until  the  Freoch  occupation,  subject  to 
no  anpen^Bion,  but  in  the  year  1883  the  French,  alive  to  the  importance  of  preserving 
what  remained  of  them,  placed  thera  under  the  management  of  a  separate  depurt- 
mentj  which  baa  carefully  explored  their  extent  and  conclusively  shown  that  they 
are  an  important  element  of  national  wealth.  The  river  Mejer<ia  may  be  said  to 
divide  the  forests  into  two  main  groups.  Those  covering  the  north-west  of  tlie 
country  consist  of  the  cork  tree  and  deciduous  oak,  locally  known  as  the  Zen, 
The  trees  grow  in  a  stratum  of  sandstone,  which  reposes  on  the  upper  chalk,  and 
completely  disappear  where  the  latter  stratum  comes  to  the  surface.  The  cork  trees 
are  invariably  found  growing  on  the  southern  slopes  of  this  mountainous  region, 
while  the  oaks  floiuish  on  the  northern  slopes  and  in  the  hollows  of  the  valleys. 
The  former  cover  an  area  of  about  330,OCO  acres,  and  the  latter  30,000.  South  of 
the  Mejerda  both  these  trees  disappear  and  give  place  to  the  pine  and  a  species  of 
eveTgreeu  oak,  la  this  part  of  the  country  the  forests  are  scattered  over  variouji 
mountainous  regions  of  no  great  elevation,  all  comprised  in  the  northern  half  of 
the  Regency  where  alono  the  minfall  ia  sufficient  to  sustain  their  growth.  The 
principal  forest  groups  are  found  in  the  following  places:— Zaghuan,  Djuggar,  and 
Jebel-el-Erssaa«,  not  far  from  the  city  of  Tunis ;  Eessera  and  the  Zlass  Mountains, 
further  south;  Sidi  Tussef,  Wady  Melugne,  Nebeur,  and  Haydra,  in  the  west.  The 
estimated  area  covered  by  these  groups  is  about  the  same  as  that  covered 
by  the  cork  trees  and  zena  to  the  north  of  the  Mejerda.  It  is  to  the 
latter  that  the  attention  of  the  new  administration  has  been  mainly  directed. 
They  are  situated  in  a  very  sparsely-populated  country,  inhabited  by  the  Krumirs, 
whose  huts  are  formed  of  branches  of  trees.  Much  has  been  done  during  recent 
years  in  improving  the  condition  of  the  oak  forests.  Roads  have  been  cut  through 
them  and  at  stated  intervals  spacious  alleys  have  beenfonued  as  a  raeaus  for  arresting 
the  march  t»f  the  d^tructivo  fires  which  frequently  ravage  them.  The  preservation 
and  extension  of  these  forests  is  held  to  be  of  paramount  importance  to  favour  the 
increase  of  rainfall  in  the  country.  That  they  were  more  extensive  iu  the  times  of 
the  Romans,  and  that  they  served  to  augment  the  annual  rainfall  may  he  inferred 
from  the  discovery  of  numerous  aqueducts  among  hills,  which  are  now  absolutely 
denuded  of  trees  and  destitute  of  springs.  Much  progress  has  been  made  iu  barking 
the  cork  trees.  The  rough  bark,  which  is  of  no  value,  is  stripped  off  the  trees  to 
the  height  of  six  feet  from  the  ground.  Ten  years  after  the  trees  have  been  so 
stripfjed,  the  inner  bark  iMWomes  available  for  commercial  purposes,  the  trees  giving 
a  crop  of  cork  every  ten  yearfi.  A  statement  prepared  by  the  chief  of  the  depart- 
ment shows  an  estimated  profit  which  iu  twenty  years  will  rcAch  the  sum  of  70|0O0f, 


GEOOEArillCAL  NOTES. 


683 


per  annam  derivable  from  these  cork  forests  alone.  The  pine  foresta  aontli  of  the 
Mejcrtla  are  practically  neglected  and  are  consequently  rapidly  deteriorating.  The 
natives  strip  the  trees  of  their  l*ark  for  tanning  and  colouring  hides,  and  cnt  tliem 
down  for  fuel,  while  goals,  the  worst  enemies  of  the  forests,  are  allowed  to  roam 
everywhere.  Ko  attempt  haa  yet  been  tnade  by  the  Government  to  stop  this  waste, 
but  it  is  expected  that  some  measures  will  be  taken  very  shortly.  The  French 
railway  company  owning  the  line  from  Tunis  to  the  Algerian  frontier  has  succeeded 
in  planting  a  large  number  of  the  Eucalj^ptus  resinifera  (red  gum  tree)  and  the 
Acacia  cyanophylla ;  some  300,000  trees  have  been  planted  along  the  line.  In  the 
^vhole  of  Southern  Tunis  there  is  but  one  forest.  It  is  formed  of  a  species  of  acacia^ 
and  is  situated  about  twenty-five  mUes  inland  from  Sfax,  covering  an  area  five  miles 
long  and  one  mile  broad.  This  for^t,  which  was  formerly  much  more  extensive,  is 
protected  from  the  northerly  winds  by  high  land;  the  trees  grow  in  clumps  in 
depressions  of  alluvial  boO.  Though  they  only  attain  a  height  of  ten  feet,  the  trunks 
furnish  planks  eight  to  ten  inches  wide,  of  very  hard  f^raia  and  capable  of  taking  a 
fine  polish,  A  small  outline  map,  showiug  the  distribution  of  the  for^ts,  accompanies 
the  Ke|)ort 

Tbe  Trade  Eoiite  to  Siberia. — Not  daunted  by  repeated  failureB, 
M.  Sibmakoif  again  doBpatcbed  hia  eteaiuer  NordensJctold  this  autunin  to 
the  river  Yenisei,  via  the  Kara  Sea,  and  this  time  with  partial  success. 
The  vessel  left  Norway  in  August,  and,  after  encountering  much  drift 
ic©  and  fog^  succeeded  in  reaching  the  mouth  of  the  river  Petchora. 
Here  a  cargo  of  skins — bullock,  sheep,  goat,  seal,  and  bear — was  shipped, 
as  well  as  com,  tallow,  and  mammoth  bomss  which  had  been  brought, 
by  lighters  and  on  the  backs  of  reindeer,  all  the  way  from  Tomsk  to 
Kuja^  about  seventy  miles  up  the  river.  The  Nordemkiold  then  left  for 
Bremen,  where  she  has  just  arrived,  having  accomplished  the  voyage  in 
sixteen  days.  Another  steamer,  the  PhuL'mx,  in  charge  of  the  weO- 
known  arcrtio  toyageur  Captain  Wiggins,  which  left  Vardo  for  the 
Yenisei  at  the  end  of  August,  with  a  cargo  of  merchandise  shipped  at 
Leith,  succeeded  in  reaching  and  entering  the  Yenisei  in  the  middle  of 
October,  thus  accomplish  in  g  the  voyage  from  Europe  to  Siberia,  a  feat 
not  achieved  by  any  vessel  since  1880.  Norwegian  hunters  returning 
from  the  neighbourhood  of  Nova  Zembla  report  that  the  condition  of 
the  ice  was  unusually  favourable  for  such  an  adventure  lat©  this 
autumn. 

The  Weather  in  the  Arctic  Seas.— Judging  from  the  reports  received 
&om  the  Arctic  seas  around  Nova  Zembla,  Spitzbergen,  and  Iceland  and 
Greenland,  it  seems  that  the  weather  and  the  ice  in  these  regions  have 
been  very  remarkable  during  the  past  summer  and  autumn.  Thus  Dr. 
Karl  PettersonjOf  Tromso,  states  that  in  July  last  the  Norwegian  hunters 
found  the  sea  full  of  ice  north  of  Norway  and  around  Spitzbergen,  but 
open  towards  Nova  Zembla.  Later  on^in  August — violent  gales  from 
N.N.W.,  accompanied  by  heavy  fogs^  put  a  stop  to  the  whale-bunting  on 
the  north  Norwegian  coast — by-tbe-by  a  montk  earlier  than  usual — 
certain  signs  of  there  being  large  masises  of  drift  ice  not  far  from  the 
shore  in  that  direction.    From  reports  received  from  Iceland  we  leani 


684 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


that  there,  too^  the  weather  and  the  state  of  the  ioe  were  most  njiiimial. 
For  instance,  in  July  last^  the  ioe  beset  the  whole  northern  shore  aa  far 
a^  Cape  North,  the  ice-be!t  oxtending  some  twenty  nautical  miles  sea- 
wards. In  the  early  part  of  August  the  mail -packet  Thifra  encountered 
such  a  quantity  of  drift  ice — in  fact,  a  compact  mass  of  ice  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  reach — that  the  vessel  was  compelled  to  return.  The  ioe  lay 
very  close  to  the  shore  on  the  return  journey,  thus,  off  the  Reikjavik- 
fjord,  only  Rye  or  six  kilometres  from  the  coast.  On  August  10th  the 
Thyra  reached  tho  east  coaat  of  Iceland ^  but  here,  too,  all  further  progress 
northwards  was  arrested  by  ice.  It  having  blown  continuously  from. 
the  north-east,  the  southern  edge  of  the  ice  extended  as  far  down  as  the 
Berufjord,  and  lay  everywhere  close  to  the  shore.  This  Qord  was  then 
the  only  accessible  harbour  on  the  east  coast ;  but  already  the  next  day 
this,  too,  began  to  hll  with  ice,  and  the  steamer  bad  trouble  in  getting 
away.  About  the  same  time  the  mail-packet  Laura  succeeded  in  reach- 
ing the  Eskefjord,  on  the  west  coast,  and  thence  proceeded  northwards ; 
but  at  Cuipe  Korth  largo  masses  of  drift  ioe  were  enoountered,  and  the 
vesiiel  was  unable  to  reach  the  Seydisfjord  on  the  northern  side  of 
Iceland,  She  lay  to  for  some  hours  in  the  ice,  which  appeared  to  be  one 
compact  mass  as  far  ae  the  eye  could  reach  to  the  north  and  north-east, 
neither  was  there  open  water  in  the  direction  of  the  Seydisfjord.  Thick 
fog  coming  on,  the  vessel  returned  southwards.  However,  on  the  vessel 
making  a  second  attempt  to  penetrate  northwards,  she  succeeded  in 
reaching  Cape  North  on  August  17th ;  but  having  advanced  some  twenty 
nautical  miles  eastwards  large  masses  of  ioe  were  again  encountered, 
aud  the  vessel  was  forced  to  return.  The  wind  blew  steadily  from  the 
north  and  north-east  all  the  time,  l^ever  be  fore » in  the  memory  of  the 
inhabitants,  have  tho  Seydisfjord  and  Eskefjord  been  beset  by  ice  so 
late  in  the  season,  whilst  the  circumstance  of  the  ice  being  heaviest  on 
tho  east  coast  is  a  most  unusual  one.  On  her  next  jouroey,  at  the  end  of 
August,  the  Laura  succeeded  in  reaching  the  northern  shore  of  the 
island ;  but  on  September  6thj  when  steaming  eaytwards,  tljo  ioe  was 
again  encountered  in  Thistle  Bay*  As  it  lay  packed  close  to  the  shore, 
and  extended  seawards  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  with  a  falling 
barometer  and  foggy  weather,  the  vessel  was  put  about.  It  waa  ascer- 
tained on  this  journey  that  tho  Seydisfjord  was  not  free  from  ic©  till 
September  tith,  and  even  later  large  floes  were  mentioned  between  this 
and  the  Eskefjord.  Between  September  7th  and  10th,  a  terrible 
storm  from  N.K.W.  visited  the  island  livith  heavy  falls  of  snow,  par- 
ticularly on  the  east  coast.  There  is  an  old  Icelandic  belief,  that,  if  the 
ice  does  not  disappear  from  tho  northern  shore  by  August  29th,  it  will 
remain  all  the  winter.  The  ico  having  not  disappeared  this  year  by 
that  date,  there  was  little  hojxs  of  its  moving  since.  At  the  Faroe 
Islands,  too,  the  weather  has  been  stormy  and  cold  during  August  and 
Septemb^?r,  northerly   and   easterly  gales  prevailing,  with  fogs.     The 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


6S5 


latter  LaTO  been  almost  continuooB  along  the  whole  east  coast.  Eeports 
of  the  state  of  the  ice  along  the  east  coast  of  Greenlatid  this  Buinmer  are 
very  scanty,  bnt  they  seem  to  indicato  that  these  two  enormouB  masses 
of  drift  ice  have  heen  forced  up  under  the  coast-  Therefore,  from  the 
reports  received  from  the  various  2:tarta  of  the  Arctic  Seas  of  the  state 
of  the  weather  and  the  ice  this  summer  refen-ed  to  above,  we  may  draw 
the  conclnsion  that  the  steady  and  continuons  prevalence  of  easterly  and 
north-easterly  winds  has  forced  the  ioe  from  the  regions  north  of . 
Spitzbergen  and  Nova  Zembia  down  into  the  seas  around  northern 
Norway,  Jan  Mayeo,  Iceland,  the  Faroe  Islands,  and  up  along  the 
east  coast  of  Greenland.  Thus  Francis  Joseph  Land  and  the  regions  north 
and  east  of  Nova  Zembia  must  have  been  fairly  free  from  ice  this 
summer,  a  conclusion  borne  out  by  the  statement  oF  Norwegian  hunters. 
Moreover,  it  may  be  safely  assumed  that  the  state  of  the  ice  and  weather 
in  the  Arctic  Seas  above  described,  in  a  great  measure  accounts  for  the 
'Oarly  setting  in  of  winter  which  we  are  experiencing. 

The  PyreneeB,— At  the  recent  meeting  of  the  French  Association 
for  the  Advancement  of  Science,  M,  Schrader  read  a  paper  on  tho 
Orography  of  the  Pyrenees,  to  the  study  of  which  he  has  devoted  the 
last  ten  years,  M.  Schrader  pointed  out  the  great  inaccuracies  of  existing 
maps  of  this  mountain  range ;  the  latest  maps,  he  stated,  are  sixty  yearn 
old,  and  abound  with  the  most  'erroneous  indications.  Since  then  various 
geographers  have  attempted  to  correct  these  maps,  with  unsatisfactory 
results.  M.  Schrader *8  observations  have  been  made  with  an  instrument 
of  his  own  invention,  which  he  calls  an  orograph.  He  points  out  first 
that  the  mass  of  tho  Pyrenees  is  to  the  south  of  the  boundary  line,  that 
they  slope  gradually  into  Spain,  while  they  descend  abruptly  into 
France;  that  they  are  vaster  and  less  European  in  aspect  on  the 
Spanish  than  on  the  French  side.  According  to  the  old  descriptions 
the  Pyreneau  chain  is  compared  in  its  general  aspect  to  a  fem-leaf  with 
its  transverse  veins,  or  to  the  dorsal  ridge  of  a  fish.  But  far  from  pre- 
senting this  appearance,  they  are  in  reality  composed  of  many  lines  of 
elevations  (redressements)  (7)^  oblique  to  the  imaginary  axis  of  the  chain 
with  which  they  generally  form  an  acute  angle.  Certain  regions,  that 
of  Mont  Perdu  for  example,  present  this  conformation  with  a  regularity 
almost  geometrical.  Others  are  less  marked,  though  it  is  impossible  to 
inspect  the  network  formed  on  the  map  by  the  valleys  and  the  masses 
without  being  struck  with  the  extreme  precision  of  the  meshes  which 
compose  it.  This  network  is,  however,  broken  up  by  fractures,  across 
whioh  wind  the  streams  which  pass  from  one  line  of  elevations  to  another, 
taking  advantage  of  the  first  breach  to  escape.  These  fractures  are  of  a 
different  character  on  the  two  slopes.  On  the  French  side  the  crests  are 
blunted.  The  incessant  hmnidity  of  the  atmosphere  has  worn  them 
«way ;  mountains,  ravines,  crests,  all  are  effaced  to  assume  the  forms  of 
jusLtaposed  cones  or  pyramids.    On  the  side  of  Spain,  on  the  other  hand, 


686 


GEOGBAPHICAL  KOTES. 


the  fractures  arc  much  fresher,  the  angles  more  precise,  the  fonns 
rougher.  The  hot  and  dry  climate  of  Spain  has  evaporated  the  mois- 
ture, destroyed  the  lichens,  and  preserved  to  the  naked  rocks  their 
primitive  aspect*  The  arrangement  of  the  Pyrenees  is  different  on  the 
two  slopes.  On  the  French  side  the  slope  is  rapid  ;  the  mountains  rise 
like  a  wall,  and  have  an  aspect  of  grandeur.  On  the  side  of  Spain  the 
deaoent  is  formed  by  two  stages*  Starting  from  the  central  crests  we 
find  a  sort  of  plateau,  a  compound  mammillated  surface,  from  12  to 
20  miles  wide,  of  a  wild  and  melancholy  aspeet,  contrasting  with  the 
beauty  of  the  great  crests.  At  the  limit  of  this  region  a  new  chain  rises 
to  a  height  of  from  1000  to  1600  feet.  This  long  girdle  of  sierras,  cut 
by  narrow  and  magnificent  gorges,  through  which  the  rivers  escape, 
appears  to  enolose  the  mass  of  the  Spanish  Pyrenees  in  a  circle  of 
gigantio  walls.  The  descent  of  the  sierras  on  to  the  plains  marks  the 
limit  of  tho  Pyrenees  towards  the  south. 

Depths  of  Swiss  Lakes.^In  a  lecture  on  the  depths  of  the  lakes  of 
Switzerland  given  to  tho  Bern  Society  of  Engineers  by  Herr  J,  Homli- 
mann,  and  printed  as  a  pamphlet,  the  author  describes  the  method s^ 
apparatus,  and  results  of  recent  surveys  among  certain  of  these  lakes, 
undertaken  by  the  Swiss  Topographic  Department.  Among  the  sound- 
ings obtained  are  the  following  :—-Bodenaee,  greatest  depth  838  feet, 
between  Uttwil  and  Friedrichshafen;  Lake  of  Geneva,  upper  part, 
between  Bavaz,  St.  Gingolph,  and  Yilleneuve,  842  feet,  somewhat  less 
than  a  mile  south  of  Kevaz,  the  greatest  depth  being  in  the  centre, 
between  Ouchy  and  Evian,  1017  feetj  Lake  Luoome,  greatest  depth 
700  feet,  between  Gersau  and  Eiitenen;  Lake  Zug,  greatest  depth 
650  feet,  between  Walchwill  and  Immensee ;  Lake  Sempach,  greatest 
depth  28 G  feet,  between  Eich  and  Nottwil;  Lake  Baldegg,  greatest 
depth  216  feet,  between  Kettschwil  and  Golpi, 

The  Lower  Camacuam  (South  Brazil).— Dr.  H.  v.  Jhering  gives  a 
detailed  account  in  the  current  part  of  Petermann*s  *  Mitteilungen '  of  & 
short  voyage  up  tbo  river  Camacuara,  made  by  him  in  the  spring  of 
last  year  in  company  with  Herr  Soyaux,  This  river,  which  flows 
through  the  southern  part  of  the  province  of  Kio  Grande  do  Sul  into 
Lake  Patos,  was  ascended  from  its  delta  to  the  town  of  S.  Jose.  A  very 
fall  description  of  the  river  and  each  day's  journey  i  b  given  by  the  traveller, 
but  its  general  physical  features  are  summarised  by  him  as  follows : — In 
the  lower  course  of  the  Camacuam  from  the  Passo  de  Bom  Sera  to  th& 
bar,  the  river  winds  in  numerous  curves,  and  there  is  a  striking  contrast 
between  the  two  banks  ;  while  the  right  bank  is  steep  and  wooded,  the 
left  is  flat  and  covered  with  sand  or  gi'avel.  It  is  on  the  latter  side  of 
the  river  that  sandbanks  abound,  whereas  the  waterway  near  the  steep 
bank  is  invariably  deep,  and  the  current  strong.  The  high  shore  is 
called  '^  barranca  *' ;  tho  ^*  areial  "  or  sandbank  is  composed  either  of  sand 


I 


OBITUART. 


C87 


and  gravel  or  of  large  emootli  pebbles  and  Btones  more  than  a  foot  long. 
These  argillaceous  pebble  stones  must  have  been  transported  to  their 
present  position  from  a  long  distance,  as  no  corresponding  rook  waa  met 
with  by  the  traveller  in  his  voyage.  In  contrast  with  the  lower  course^ 
the  character  of  the  coontry  above  the  Passo  de  Bom  Sera  is  the  same 
on  both  sides  of  the  river.  The  banks  are  wooded,  and  slope  gently  to 
the  river.  The  ooui'se  of  the  river  is  less  tortuoua,  and  the  current  not 
so  strong.  There  is  a  large  voluoio  of  water  in  the  river  daring  the 
winter  months,  but  in  the  dry  season  it  falls  Tery  considerably.  Speak- 
ing generally,  it  may  be  said  that  the  Camacnani  has  a  very  strong 
current,  and  that  it  ranks  well  among  the  navigable  rivers  of  the 
province.  The  fuel  of  the  Camacuam  is  much  prized,  while  its  foresta 
contain  many  valuable  woods,  Buch  as  the  cedar  and  angico.  As 
regards  the  distribution  of  the  "  campos,"  or  open  tracts  of  grass  country 
and  the  forest-covered  lands,  the  traveller  is  of  opinion  that  thia  cannot 
be  satisfactorily  explained  by  a  consideration  of  the  nature  of  the  soil 
and  difference  of  climate.  The  former  are  invariably  on  a  higher  level 
than  the  latter,  and  have  not  the  same  subsoil.  From  his  observations 
he  concludes  that  this  distribution  can  be  accounted  for  if  from  the  data 
which  geology  furnishes  as  to  the  tertiary  formations,  the  distribution 
of  water  and  land  during  the  chief  epochs  of  the  tertiary  period,  and 
also  of  the  diluvial  and  alluvial  epochs  is  determined,  at  least  in  ita 
main  features.  He  supposes  that  the  elevated  '*  eampo-barrancas  '*  of 
the  Camacuam  belong  to  the  diluvial  period,  while  the  contiguous 
wooded  landu  are  of  alluvial  origin.  Dr.  Jhering's  map  of  the  river, 
and  especially  of  the  delta,  has  been  very  carefully  prepared.  The 
most  recent  map  of  the  latter,  that  of  the  government  engineer,  executed 
in  1882,  is  strangely  inaccurate,  showing  the  river  to  have  three  mouths 
instead  of  five,  and  in  other  respects  it  is  not  to  be  trusted,  so  that  Dr. 
Jhering's  map  ia  a  real  addition  to  the  cartography  of  this  region. 

OeograpMcal  Education  in  India.— We  are  glad  to  see  that  the  subject 
of  reform  in  geographical  education  is  attracting  attention  in  India.  In 
two  papers  in  Nos.  1  and  2  of  the  '  Punjab  Magazine '  Mr.  31.  J,  Odgers 
strongly  advocates  reform  in  the  teaching  of  the  subject  in  Indian 
Bchools,  and  the  foundation  of  Chairs  of  Geography  in  Indian  Uni- 
versities, Another  writer  con  tributes  an  article  to  No.  1  on  '*  Geography 
Teacherfc%'' 


Sir  Julius  Ton  Haast,  K.C.M.G.^  Ph.B.,  FXS.,  one  of  the  Society'*  Gold 
ilcdalUsts,  whose  death  took  iilace  suddenly  on  AoguBt  IGtb,  was  the  son  of  a  mer- 
chant at  Bcnn  j  GermaDy ,  aad  was  bora  there  on  May  1  st^  1824.  After  passing  through 
the  grammar  schools  of  Bonn  and  Cologne,  he  spent  some  thne  at  Boan  Uaivereity,  at 
the  fame  time  that  he  learned  the  business  of  bookseller.  He  seems  at  this  time  to 
hare  ahowa  tome  taste  for  geological  and  mlueralogical  studies.    For  some  years 


688 


OBITUARY* 


Hiiafit  seems  to  liave  travelled  extensively  jn  Europe,  visiting  Russia,  Austria » 
aod  Italy.     During  the  eruption  of  Mount  Etna,  in  1852,  ho  is  said  to  have 
ascended  the  mountain   for  scientific   purposes.     When  living  at  Hanover,  Von 
Haast   recei\*ed  an  appointment  from  an  English  company  to  go  out  to   New 
Zej:klaDd  for  the  purpose  of  Bhowicg  its  auitabilitj  for  German  emigrants.    Von  Haast 
arrived  in    Auckland,   New  Zealand,   in   1858,  and   there  ho  met   the  late   Dr. 
Hochstetter,  then  one  of  the  BtaU  of   the  Navara  expedition.     At  Hochsfcetter^a 
request  Von  Haast  accompanied  him  in  hie  exploration  of  the  North  Island,  south 
of  Auckland,  and  a  portion  of  Nelson,  ivriting  fall  reports  of  all  he  saw  to  tho 
leading  German  periodicals.    At  the  request  of  the  Provincial  Government  of  Nelson 
Von  Haaafc  then  started  on  au  expedition  to  explore  the  western  and   southern 
portion  of  the  province.      During  this  journey,  in  addition  to  tho  discovery  of  th& 
Grey  and  Buller  coal -fields,  and  of  several  gold-hearing  districts,  he  filled  in  the 
topography  of  a  large  part  of   Nelson,  and  added  largely  to  the  knowledge   of 
the  geology,  as  well  as  of  the  fauna  and  flora  of  these  alpine  portions  of   New 
Zealand.      A  report  of  the  journey  was  published  by  the  Government,  and  in  the 
beginning  of  1861  Von  Haast  was  ap|jointed  Provincial  Geologist  of  Canterbury. 
During  a  number  of  years  he  devoted  from  six  to  eight  months  annually  to  the 
investigation  of  the  physical  geography  and  geology  of  the  province.     The  result  waa 
tho  pubUcatioQ  of   the  *  Geology  of  the  Provinces  of  Canterbury  and  Westland ' ; 
and  in   the  meantime  Von  Haast  had   sent  various  papers  on  the  geology  and 
physical    geography  of    Canterbury  to    the   Geological  and  Royal   Geographical 
Societies.    His  paper  on  the  mountains  and  glaciers  of  Canterbury  Province,  illustrated 
by  a  map  in  part  drawn  from  his  own  surveys,  was  read  at  an  evening  meeting  of  the 
Society  in  February  1864,  and  published  in  vol  xxxiv.  of  the  Journal,     A  sub- 
sequent paper  on  Altitude;  Sections  of  the  principal  routes  between  the  east  and 
west  coasts  of  Canterbury  Province  appeared  in   vol.  xxxvii*  of   the   Journal. 
During   his    explorations   as   a    geologist   be    commeocetl    the    formation   of  the 
famous  Canterbury  Museum,  the  first  museum  of  the  southern  hemisphere,     Th© 
entire  collection  consists  of  over  150,000  labelled  specimens,  thousands  of  which 
are  of  great  value  and  rarity,  and  many  are  quite  unique.     Von  Haast  took  much 
interest  in  education  in  New  Zealand,  and  was  one  of  the  founders  of  Canterbury 
College,  in  which  he  was  professor  of  geology  and  palaeontology.       In   1862  lie 
founded  the  Philosophical  Institute  of  Canterbury,  the  publications  of  which  are 
well  known  in  Europe.      Von  Ilaast  took  an  active  share  in  various  exhibitions  in 
which  New  Zealand  was  represented ;  and  of  the  New  Zealand  section  of  the  recent 
Colonial  Exhibition  he  was  the  organiser,  and  took  infinite  trouble  to  render  it  a 
success,  both  from  a  scientific  and  an  economical  point  of  view.    Von  Haast  did 
much  to  make  known  the  geography  of  New  Zealand,  as  well  as  its  geology  and 
palaeontology ;  and  the  services  he  rendered  to  the  interests  of  his  adopted  conn  try 
will  make  his  name  long  remembered  there.     He  received  many  honours.     In  1862 
he  was  made  ru.n,  the  University  of  Tubingen ;   in  1SG7  he  was  elected  a  Fellow 
of  the  Royal  Society,  and  in  1886  was  made  d.sc.  of  Cambridge ;  in  188^  he  was 
aivarded  the  Gold  Medal  of  the  R.G.S.  for  his  explorations  ;  and  of  above  fifty  academic 
and  learned  societies  in  various  parts  of  the  world,  he  was  a  fellow  or  honorary  or  corT€* 
sponding  member,      Tlie   Emperor  of  Austria  conferred   upon  him  a  patent  of 
hereditary  nobility  ;  a  number  of  European  Sovrereigns  sent  him  their  orders ;  and 
Her  Majesty  created  him  a  k.c.m.g.  for  his  services  in  connection  with  the  Colonial 
Exhibition.      At  the  conclusion  of  the  Exhibition,  Sir  Julius  visited  the  great 
museums  of  the  Con  linen  t  of  Eorope,  Paris,  Brussels,  Berlin,  Dresden,  Vienna^ 
Venice,  Florence,  and  others.     Von  Haast  leavea  a  widow  and  family,  who,  we  are 
glad  to  know,  will  be  well  provided  for. 


(     G89     ) 


PEOCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGEAPHICAL  SECTION 
OP  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION. 

MANCHESTER  MEETING.  18S7. 
ThuTiday^  September  1st  (continued). 

The  Bang'ala.  By  Capt.  Coquhhat. — This  paper  will  appear  in  foil  ia  the 
Journal  of  the  Manchester  Geograpliical  Society. 

The  Congo  below  Stanley  Pool  By  Lieut*  Le  ^rAniNEL. — This  paper  will 
he  published  in  tlie  JourQal  of  the  Manchester  Geographical  Society* 

The  I*ower  Congo  i  a  Sociological  Study*  By  Eichabd  Coaden  Vbillipb, 
Will  bo  published  in  the  JohtikiI  i>f  the  Autlirojw logical  Institute. 

Ifotice  sur  TEtat  Independent  du  Congo.  By  M.  von  Eetveldb 
(Abstract).^!' he  Congo  State  lies  wholly  within  the  tropics,  and  covers  an  area  of 
1,075,000  square  miles.  In  sketcbing  the  physical  confi^ration  of  the  country  the 
author  ^rew  attention  to  its  magnificent  water-highwayfl,  and  to  the  exceeding 
fertility  of  certain  dij*tricta.  He  ntjited  that  Captain  Yangele  had  heta  charged 
with,  a  mission  which  it  was  'hoped  would  definitely  settle  the  Mobanf^i- Welle 
problem.  Meteorological  observations  had  not  as  yet  been  carried  un  for  a  sufficient 
time  to  enable  us  to  form  a  definite  idea  of  the  climate.  The  cliuiate,  hcwever,  did 
not  sensibly  differ  from  that  of  other  tropical  regions;  and  had  this  in  its  favour, 
that  diphtheria,  Bcarlatiua,  the  yellow  fever,  the  cholera,  and  tjpkus  fever  were 
unknown.  The  many  ileaths  which  had  occurred  among  the  officials  were  due 
ratber  to  exceptionally  hard  work,  to  the  want  of  comforts,  and  to  lack  of  experience, 
than  to  the  badness  of  the  climate.  The  hygienic  conditions  would  improve 
with  the  progress  of  cxdtivation.  Mr,  Stanley  estimated  the  total  population  of  the 
State  at  forty-three  millionB,  and  looking  to  the  accounts  of  recent  exploi-ers  as  to 
the  |K)pulouaness  of  certain  districts  in  the  interior,  this  appeared  no  exaggerated 
estimate.  I'he  inhabitants  might  roughly  be  divided  into  river-tribes  and  into 
tribes  inhabiting  the  *'Ngombe,"  that  is,  the  uplands  and  regions  away  from 
the  rivers.  The  former  were  traders  and  fishermen,  the  latter  agriculturists  and 
bunters,  ond  carried  on  domestic  indufitry,  such  as  iron-smelt i rig,  the  making  of 
pottery,  weaving,  &a  On  the  lower  Congo  many  of  the  natives  sought  employment 
as  carriers.  Four  types  of  houses  had  hitherto  been  okservcd^  viz.  the  rectangular 
hut,  with  a  wooden  frame  and  a  thatched  roof;  the  circular  huts  (on  the  -Aruwimi) ; 
the  housci!  of  the  liakoi,  with  mud  walla  ;  and  the  huts  which  the  j^eople  along  the 
Ubengi  built  in  trees.  Many  of  the  villages  were  stockaded.  Human  sacrifices  on 
the  death  of  a  chief  were  still  common,  but  the  authorities  of  the  State  were  sucvsess- 
fully  striving  against  this  barlmrity.  Socially  there  existed  three  classes,  y\z,  chiefs, 
freemen,  and  serfs.  The  civilising  influences  brought  to  bear  upon  the  existing 
conditions  were  having  a  visible  effect.  Missionary  enterprise  was  expanding,  and 
commerce  rapidly  developing.  The  railway  which  it  was  proposed  to  build  to 
Stinley  Pool  wonld  give  access  to  the  wealth  of  the  interior.  Courts  of  justice  had 
been  established,  and  atrocities,  such  aa  were  referred  to  in  a  Report  by  Mr.  Consul 
D.  Hopkins,  had  become  impossible.  The  suppression  of  the  slave  razzias,  tlie 
abolition  of  human  sacrifices,  the  introduction  of  an  impartial  administration  of 
justice,  the  cessation  of  tribal  wars,  the  protection  and  expansion  of  commerce,  and 
the  establishment  of  public  security,  were  the  objects  aimed  at  by  the  State, 

A  Yisit  to  Diogo  Cad's  **  Padrjw  '*  at  the  Mo^tb  of  tiie  Congo*    By  R.  E, 

Dexnett. — The  author  described  a  visit,  in  April  1887,  to  the  suppled  fragments 


690 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


of  Dtogo  Cafl*8  "Pillar*"  near  Shark's  Pointp  which  had  then  recently  heen  dis- 
covered (or  rather  rediacovered)  by  Baron  Scbwerin  aod  {>efiar  F.  J.  de  Franca. 
The  latter  bad  been  told  by  the  natives  of  the  existence  of  a  fetish  made  of  stonep 
and  as  no  stones  are  found  for  milea  around  San  Antonio,  where  he  resided,  he  at 
once  concluded  that  tho  fetUh  would  prove  identical  with  the  **  Pillar  *'  set  up  by  the 
discoverer  of  the  Congo*  The  natives  silleged  that  the  fetish  had  fallen  from  heaven, 
and  SeOor  Fran^a^s  jiersuaBive  ix>wers  were  called  into  use  to  induce  them  to  reveal 
its  whereabouts.  The  author  landed  on  the  ioner  side  of  Sharks  Point  to  avoid 
the  surf.  A  short  walk  through  coarse  grass  led  past  *'  King  George^s  Palace/*  cloae 
to  which  are  now  the  tombatoues  removed  from  the  submerged  English  cemetery* 
He  then  crossed  the  pointy  weot  past  the  site  of  the  old  cemetery,  now  covered  by 
the  sea,  and  at  a  few  minutes^  distance  from  the  shore  ascended  to  a  hillock,  where, 
in  a  denae  bush,  the  venerated  stones  were  discovered.  The  bandages  of  cloth,  which 
until  recently  covered  them,  bad  been  removed.  The  fragments  condsted  of  a 
square  base»  27  inches  in  height,  jmrt  of  the  cylindrical  columDi  12  inches  m 
diameter  and  18  inches  in  height>  and  of  two  ball-shaj^  stones,  all  of  white 
marble.* 

Oa  Acelimatisatioi,  By  Dr,  A.  OrPLER,  of  Bremen.  (Summary). — "Accli- 
matisation '^  means  the  adaptation  of  an  organised  being  to  new  snrronudiogs  without 
injury  to  the  Ludlvidnal,  or  danger  to  the  existence  of  the  species.  Our  present 
views  as  to  the  origin  of  the  races  of  man  are  based  npon  the  possibility  of  man  being 
able  to  become  acclimatised  in  regions  climatically  different  from  that  which  has 
given  him  birth.  If  this  is  not  conceded  we  are  compelled  to  assume  an  indefinite 
number  of  centres  of  creation,  from  which  man  spread  over  the  earth.  The  imity  of 
race  is  generally  conceded  to  certain  great  human  familiea,  such  as  the  Mongols,  the 
Indo-Enropeana,  the  Jews,  and  the  Anierican  Indians.  The  last  extend  from  the 
glacier-fiords  of  Tierra  del  Fuego  to  the  Arctic  circle,  and  from  the  hot  and  humid 
lowlands  high  up  to  the  dry  and  cold  plateaus  of  Peru  and  Bolivia,  These  Indians 
must  have  originated  from  one  primeval  pair,  whose  descendants  in  course  of  time 
adapted  themselves  to  the  most  varied  climatic  conditioos.  The  Mongols,  too,  are 
found  in  the  most  varied  climates,  from  the  Iiot  and  hnmid  plains  of  Anam  to  the 
arid  highkntts  of  Tibet  and  the  frozen  soil  of  the  Tundras.  Physically  the  Tatar  of 
Lenkoran  yiflds  in  no  respect  to  his  kinsman  in  the  delta  of  the  Lena.  The  Indo- 
European  frtmily  extends  from  the  moist  lowlands  of  the  Ganges  to  Scandinavia 
and  Iceland,  and  in  its  case  acclimatisation  was  effected  in  the  conrse  of  no  more 
than  2000  years.  The  Jews  further  ill uf^t rate  the  faculty  of  man  to  become  accli- 
matised. At  the  present  time  there  exists  probably  no  people  which  still  occupiea 
the  soil  which  originally  gave  it  birth. 

Having  regard  to  the  over-population  of  Europe  the  question  of  acclimatisation 
becomes  one  of  practical  importance.  At  the  present  rate  of  increase  Europe  doiiblea 
its  population  in  the  course  of  a  hundred  years,  and  as  the  resources  of  the  various 


; 


: 


*  Mr,  Baven stein  {who  read  the  paper  in  the  absence  of  the  author)  said  that  the 
stones  descriWd  bad  been  referred  to  by  previous  explorers,  Dr,  Baslian  alluded  to  a 
Portuguese  who  Lad  visited  them,  and  who  had  seen  inscriptioug  u|K)U  them,  which  he 
was  unable  to  decipher.  Sir  Richard  Burton  had  visitwi  and  described  what  were 
clearly  the  same  fragments  in  1863.  It  hardly  atlniittwl  of  a  doubt  that  the  Sbiuk's 
Point  of  the  Adraimlty  chart  was  identical  witli  the  Punta  do  Padnifl  de  S.  Jorge,  A 
tlinrougli  exploration  of  the  old  Duchy  of  Sonyo  would  lead  to  iatercsting  diecoveries 
bearing  upon  the  history  of  the  early  Portuguese  occupiers  and  tlio  miesions,  and  could 
eassily  be  cffL-oted  by  one  of  the  gentlemen  attached  to  the  taclories,  endi  as  Sir. 
Philipps  or  Mr.  Dennett. 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION.  691 

coiiDtrics  do  not  increase  at  the  same  rate  emigration  and  colonisation  have  become 
a  necessity.  Up  till  now  European  emigration  has  mainly  flowed  to  countries 
presenting  climatic  conditions  similar  to  those  of  Europe,  but  the  temperate  region 
are  gradually  filling  up,  and  the  question  arises  whether  the  tropical  regions  might 
not  afford  new  homes  to  European  emigrants.  On  this  point  opinions  differ  widely. 
Hcnriciis  I^ntzovius  already  says,  "  Est  optimus  aer,  qui  unicuique  est  nativus." 
G.  F.  Kolb,  the  eminent  statistician,  looked  upon  the  theory  of  a  '*  gradual  acclima- 
tisation'' as  a  deception.  Prof.  Yirchow  maintains  that  neither  individuals  nor 
families  can  become  acclimatised  in  malarial  tropical  regions,  the  families  dying  out 
after  three  generations.  Certain  tribes  or  races  are,  however,  capable  of  offering 
greater  resistance  to  the  deleterious  influences  of  a  tropical  climate,  a<<  for  instance 
the  Jews,  and  certain  Southern  Europeans,  in  whose  ve'ns  flows  Arab  blood. 
Dr.  Hirsch  and  Dr.  Fritsch  agree  in  the  main  with  these  views,  and  they  are  also 
supported  by  medical  men  who  have  lived  within  the  tropica,  such  as  G.  A.  Fischer, 
Dutrieux,  and  J.  Montano.  The  last  says,  with  reference  to  the  Philippiue*Islands, 
that  Euro))eans  who  have  lived  there  during  eight  or  ten  years  suffer  from  anaemia, 
which  conipels  their  temporary  return  to  a  temperate  climate  to  recruit  their  health. 
Women  suffer  more  severely  from  the  climate  than  men,  and  children  of  Europeans 
suffer  most  of  all. 

Among  authorities  who  maintain  that  Europeans  are  capable  of  becoming  accli- 
matised within  the  tropics  M.  A.  de  Quatrefagcs  holds  a  foremost  place.  He 
maintains  that  the  Aryan  race  is  capable  of  accommodating  itself  to  every  climate, 
although  a  victory  over  nature  may  be  secured  only  at  heavy  sacrifices  and  in  the 
course  of  generations.  Many  explorers,  including  Livingstone,  Stanley,  Pogge,  and 
Felkin,  hold  the  same  view.  The  arguments  advanced  in  support  of  either  of  these 
views  are,  however,  inconclusive,  for  there  are  no  trustworthy  statistics  which  would 
enable  us  to  assert^tbat  European  families  have  survived  in  tropical  countries  for  more 
than  three  generations.  On  the  other  hand,  it  cannot  be  denied  that  the  death-rate 
among  Europeans  residing  there  is  exceedingly  high.  If  an  attempt  should^be  made 
to  establish  European  colonies  within  the  tropics,  only  individuals  physically  and 
mentally  qualified  should  be  selected,  and  they  should  previously  to  starting  for 
their  destination,  be  furnished  with  hygienic  instructions  suited  to  the  tropics.  In 
order  to  enable  this  to  be  done  effectively,  a  comprehensive  and  systematic  study  of 
the  hygienic  conditions  of  tropical  countries  is  called  for. 

The  author,  having  given  a  rapid  sketch  of  the  progress  of  European  colonisation 
since  the  time  of  Charlemagne,  stated  that  of  80  million  Europeans  and  their 
descendants,  who  lived  at  the  present  time  in  other  continents,  no  fewer  thanVten 
millions  had  found  a  home  within  the  tropics  (or  rather  within  the  isothermal  lines 
of  68°  F.).    Of  these  ten  millions  fully  nine  millions  lived  in  tropical  America.  ' 

Friday^  September  2nd. 

The  Eaian  MoBris.    By  Cope  Whitehoube,  m.a. 

The  Desert  from  Dahshur  to  Ain  Raian.    By  Captain  Contebs  Subtees. 

The  Bahr  Ynsuf,  its  present  state  and  uses.   By  Captain  H.  H.  Brown,  b.e. 

The  above  three  papers  are  pubDshed  in  the  October  No.  of  the  *  Proceedings,* 
anU^  p.  608. 

Trade  Prospects  with  the  Sudan.    By  Major  C.  M.  Watson,  cm.o.,  b.e. 

The  Red  Sea  Trade.  By  A.  B.  Wylde  (of  Jeddah).— The  author  of  this 
paper  dealt  very  exhaustively  with  the  trade  of  the  Red  Sea  ports.  He  spoke 
strongly  in  favour  of  the  Suakin-Berber  route,  as  compared  with  that  down  the  Kile 
to  Cairo,  which  was  favoured  by  Egyptian  oflBcials.    Tribal  ports,  such  as  Mersa 

No.  XT.— Nov.  1887.]  8  o 


692 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  TEE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


Haiaib  (one  of  the  Wealthiest  places  on  the  Red  Sea),  Roweyat  or  Mahamed  Ghoul, 
Aghig,  and  Trinkitat  should  be  opened  to  trade,  which  would  do  away  with  the 
aecessily  of  inembera  of  oue  tribe  iiassmg  over  the  territory  of  another,  and  with 
the  frequent  blood-feuds  to  which  thia  k'd.  He  had  spent  from  May  la-st  year  until 
quite  recently  among  tritcs  avowedly  unfriendly  to  the  Egyptiiin  governmeat,  but 
Imd  beeu  treattnl  everywhere  with  the  utmost  courtesy  and  hospitality*  They  were 
all  ansious  that  trade  should  be  resumed.  When  the  trade  had  been  got  back,  and 
when  cameld  were  unable  to  cope  with  ir^  then  the  time  for  building  a  railivay  from 
Suakin  to  Berber  would  have  come.  Bj  means  of  this  railway  the  coal  required  by 
steamers  navij^ating  the  Nile  could  he  carried.  I'he  Sudanis  ougitt  never  again  to 
be  handed  back  to  their  old  Egyptian  or  Turkish  rulers,  whom  they  detested  and 
despl^d.  The  question  of  the  Sudan  could  and  ought  to  be  settled  at  once,  and  ike 
country  would  cease  to  bo  a  source  of  annoyance,  and  become  another  outlet  for 
British  trade. 

Between  tlie  Nile  and  the  Bed  Sea.  By  E.  A-  Fivoteh,  of  the  Khedivial 
Civil  Service,  ante^  p.  659. 

Account  of  a  recent  Visit  to  the  ancient  Porphyry  Quarries  of  Egypt. 

By  W,  Bhikdlky,  f.k.m.b,— Egyptian  porphyry  has  b^n  sought  after  from  the 
♦j^arliest  times,  as  i>ne  of  the  most  precious  building  stones*  Ancient  writers  differed 
as  to  the  whereabouts  of  the  quarries  from  which  that  stone  was  obtained,  and  in 
modern  times  they  were  hlerally  rediscovered  by  Burton  and  Wilkinson  in  1823, 
and  subseqututly  visited  by  Lepsius  in  1845.  The  information  published  by  these 
visitors  proving  of  no  immediately  practical  vahie,  the  author  determined  to  follow 
in  the  footstei^  of  Wilkinson,  and,  aco^mpanicd  by  his  wife,  he  came  to  Cairo  in 
February  last.  Having  examined  the  ancient  granite  quarries  at  the  first  cataract, 
which  sup[iUeil  deep  red,  rose,  and  dark  grey  stone,  which  was  quarried  by  metal 
wedges,  and  not  wo(h1  (as  is  generally  sup|K)sed),  the  author  started  from  Keneh  with 
a  small  caravan  and  supplies  calculated  to  last  three  weeks.  Passing  the  remains  of 
several  Roman  stations,  the  author,  on  the  fifth  day,  reached  an  excellent  well  in  the 
charming  Wadi  KItar,  hemmed  in  on  three  sides  by  precipitous  mountains.  Soon 
after  leaving  this  valley  he  crossed  the  watershed  (240O  feet  above  the  Nile),  and 
then  travelled  along  the  fiank  of  the  immense  jiorphyry  mountain  of  Jebel  Dukhan 
as  far  as  an  old  Roman  station  with  an  old  fort.  The  morning  after  his  arrival  the 
author  ascended  to  the  top  of  a  pass  (3100  feet),  without  having  found  even  a  frag- 
ment of  jjorphyry ;  but  espying,  by  the  aid  of  a  good  field-glass,  porphyry  colouring 
on  the  opposite  nionntatn  he  resolved  to  go  there,  and  his  delight  knew  no  bounds 
when  he  found  the  ground  tbt^re  strewn  with  pieces  of  the  roost  sumptuous  porphyry, 
and*  discovered  a  pitched  way  or  slide,  16  feet  wide,  down  which  the  blocks  were 
lowered.  Further  examination  led  him  to  the  locality  where  the  Romans  had 
extracted  their  grandest  masses,  and  he  found  that  these  quarries  had  yielded  not 
only  the  usual  sttotted  variety  but  also  the  brccciated  sorfs  and  green-greys.  The 
great  quarry  was  at  an  altitude  of  3(150  feet  alnjve  the  sea,  and  a  road  led  down  to 
it  to  an  ancient  town  with  workshopE,  A  ^mth  led  hence  to  the  old  town  in  the 
vallej',  further  up  whicli  are  the  ruins  of  a  Roman  temple.  The  blocks  were  formerly 
carried  to  the  Nile,  a  distance  of  96  miks,  but  tlioy  will  in  future  be  conveyed  by  a 
gentle  incline  to  the  Red  Sea,  which  is  about  25  miles  distant.  On  his  return  to 
Cairo  the  author  secured  a  concession  to  rework  the  quarries,  the  terms  of  which 
have  since  been  ratified. 

Matabeleland  and  the  Country  hetween  the  Zambesi  and  the  Limpopo. 
By  Ca[it.  C.  E.  Hatnes,  r.e. — This  region  has  been  famous  from  a  very  early  age  for 
its  productive  gold-mines.    They  were  being  worked  when  the  Purtuguese  first 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCUTIOK. 


693 


arrived  in  the  country,  and  some  of  the  mines  etill  exist,  but  the  tlavo  trade  and 
the  inroad  of  the  Blutabele  power  bave  redaced  all  native  industries  to  a  very 
indeterminate  cjuantity.  TJie  Matabele  are  tbe  near  kinsmen  of  the  Zulu,  and  liEvve 
nearly  identical  customs.  Both  wear  that  unicivie  bead-dress,  the  gum  riog,  their 
badge  of  manhood.  The  Matabele  were  driven  out  of  Zululand  about  the  beginoing 
of  the  century,  and  under  their  chief  Um&elikazi  they  became  a  terror  to  all  the 
Bechuana  tribes  living  north  of  the  Vaal  tiver.  Attacked  by  the  Voortrek  Boers, 
and  by  the  Zulus  uoder  Panda,  they  were  forced  to  retire  north  of  the  Limpopo, 
and  finally  settled  down  lu  the  midst  of  the  Makalaka  and  Mashona  trilws.  About 
the  fiame  period  the  Gaza  kingdom  was  established  by  Manikuza,  one  of  Chaka's 
gaaenda,  to  the  east  of  the  Sabi  river.  This  tribe^  under  the  government  of  Umzila, 
proved  itself  a  fast  ally  of  the  Matiibele.  TIjo  invasion  of  the  Matabele  has  caused 
the  annihilation  or  disruption  of  the  tribes  with  whom  they  came  in  conflict. 
There  are  only  fragments  of  the  aboriginal  people  now,  who  still  carry  on  in  a  furtive 
manner  some  of  their  old  industries^  such  as  gold-digging,  iron* working,  and  weaving. 
The  climate  of  Matabeleland  resembles  that  of  the  Transvaal,  and  the  high  veldt 
which  langes  from  the  Nata  river  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Zambesi  near  Tete,  is  well 
fit  for  European  settlers,  and  promises  to  become  a  prosperous  agricultural  region, 
with  numerous  local  markets  at  hand  in  the  raim'ng  districts.  Care  should  be  taken 
to  protect  the  forests  there.  Their  wholesale  destruction  has  already  begun.  The 
Gaza  country  and  the  low  veldt  is  not  bo  salubrious,  and,  generally  speaking,  the 
Zambesi  valley  is  malarious,  A<:riculture  at  present  is  in  a  depressed  state.  There 
is  plenty  of  arable  land  on  the  high  veldl,  and  excellent  wheat,  as  well  as  all  English 
vegetables,  can  be  grown  alongsiile  the  banana  and  orange.  The  high  and  middle 
veldts  are  more  suitable  for  stock -farming.  Facilities  for  irrigation  abound.  The 
tsetse  does  not  emst  on  the  high  veldt.  The  mineral  wealth  of  the  country  still 
awaits  development.  The  Tati  gold-field  is  now  being  worked  by  an  English 
company,  but  a  nod  from  the  Matabele  king  may  at  any  time  put  an  end  to  this. 
It  is  a  pity  that  this  infant  colony  should  not  have  been  made  the  basis  from  which 
British  interests  in  Matabeleland  might  be  protected  The  extension  of  the  railway 
from  Kimberley  to  the  Tati  mines  would  have  a  most  beneficial  effect  in  attracting 
settlers.  Complaints  have  lately  been  made  that  northern  Bechuanalaod  is  gradu- 
ally drying  up,  and  it  is  not  difficult  to  prove  that  at  one  time  Lake  Kgami  was 
drained  through  the  Botlctle,  Lake  Mnkarikari,  and  the  Shashi  into  the  Limi>opo, 

A  B'ote  on  HoEghton,  the  African  Explorer*  By  Major  Sir  Hebbert 
Peerott,  Bart,  (a  great-grandson  of  Major  Houghton). — Major  Daniel  DoughtoD, 
who  perished  in  an  attempt  to  reach  Timbuktu  from  the  Gambia,  was  a  descendant 
of  the  ancient  family  of  De  Hoghton,  De  Houghton  or  Hoghton  Tower,  Lancashire, 
He  was  educated  at  the  Charterhouse,  and  married  Philippa,  a  sister  of  the  two  laet 
Baronets  Evelyn,  of  WottoTit  Surrey,  He  entered  the  army,  and  aer^^ed  in  the 
59th  Foot,  and  subsequently  became  Consul-Gencral  at  Morocco.  Mm  explorations 
were  undertaken  at  the  instance  of  the  African  Aasociation.  He  left  two  sons, 
one  Commander  Houghton,  B.N.,  who  served  under  Nelson,  the  other  a  midshipman, 
B.K.,  who  was  loBfc  with  all  hands  on  board  the  Magnet  sloop  of  war.  His  i*er vices 
were  alluded  to  in  a  sermon  preached  on  Dec.  12, 1872,  by  the  Rtv.  John  W,  Irvine, 
entitled  "  Brethren  and  Companiona,''  and  published  by  H.  S.  King  and  Co.,  1873. 


Frldat/j  SeptemUr  2?*cf. 

deographical  work  in  Weatem  AEstralia,  1370-1887.  By  the  Hon. 
JoHX  Forrest,  c.m.cj.,  Commissioner  of  Crown  Lands,  and  Surveyor-General  of 
Western  Auatralia. — Western    Australia  is    about   one-third   of  the  Australian 

3  0  2 


694 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAHllCAL  SECTION 


coatmeDt,  and  coraprises  all  that  portion  Ijing  to  the  westward  of  the  129th 
meridian  of  east  longitude*  Its  area  m  about  one  million  sqnare  milesi  and  i& 
therefore  eight  times  that  of  the  United  Kingdom  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland. 
Previous  to  I  lie  year  1869  scarcely  any  thin,;  was  known  of  that  vast  area  of 
Western  Australia  lying  to  the  eastward  of  tbe  narrow  fringe  of  settlements  along 
the  western  coast,  and  not  much  more  than  one-fourth  of  its  area  was  explored — in 
other  words,  about  750,000  square  roile^i  of  territory  was  represented  by  a  blank 
space  on  the  map  of  Australia,  The  object  of  the  paper  was  priuci}mlly  to  show 
what  has  been  done  in  regard  to  exploration  since  1869,  and  specially  to  refer  to 
the  development  in  recent  years  of  the  extreme  northern  portion  of  Western 
Australia,  locally  called  the  Kimberley  District,  which  contains  about  134,000 
square  miles,     Mr.  Forrest  continued  as  follows  :^ 

Previous  to  the  year  1870  Western  Australia  had  existed  for  forty  years  in  a  very 
isolated  condiliou,  and  had  very  little  means  of  communicating  with  the  eastern 
colonies,  or  with  other  parts  of  the  world.  In  1870,  however,  I  travelled  from 
Perth  to  Adelaide  along  or  near  to  the  south  coast,  a  route  that  bad  been  travelled 
by  Eyre  in  the  very  early  days  of  the  colony,  and  under  very  great  difficulties- 
Benefiting  by  his  exporieoce,  and  keeping  further  inlaud,  1  was  enabled  to  perform 
the  journey  without  very  great  difBculty,  and  in  about  five  months  after  leaving 
Perth  I  entered  Adelaide  with  ruy  small  party  of  six  i)er80D8  all  told,  and  with  my 
horses  and  equipmeiita.  One  of  the  chief  objects  of  the  expedition  was  to  determine 
whether  a  telegraph  cuuld  be  erected,  and  my  report  being  favourable,  the  work  was 
undertaken  and  completed. 

The  result  to  Western  Australia  has  been  that  the  isolation  in  which  it  had 
existed  so  long  was  entirely  removed^  and  we  were  at  once  placed  in  hourly  commu- 
nication with  the  eastern  colonies  of  Australia  and  also  with  the  rest  of  the  world. 
I  also  found  that  the  country  along  the  chorea  of  the  Gn-at  Australian  Bight  was  an 
elevated  plateau,  averaging  from  250  to  500  feet  above  the  sea,  of  limestone  forma- 
tion and  well  grassed,  but  entirely  destitute  of  surface  water.  No  doubt  water  will 
eventually  be  obtained  by  sinking,  or  by  storage  in  dams  or  tanks,  acd  then  this 
large  area  of  good  country  will  be  utilised,  aud  be  of  great  value  for  pastoral  pur- 
poses. After  this  journey  from  Perth  to  Adelaide  a  great  deal  of  attention  was  drawn 
to  the  great  unknown  interior  of  Australia  which  remained  a  blank  on  the  map,  and 
between  the  year  1B73  and  1876  several  eipeilitions  were  sent  out  with  the  object 
d'  crossing  from  the  telegraph  line  between  Adelaide  and  Port  Darwin,  which  had 
just  been  erected,  to  the  settlements  on  the  westeru  coast.  Several  of  these  expedi- 
tions failed  to  accomplish  what  was  intended^  but  Warburton,  Giles,  and  myself 
were  suocessfuL  Warburton  in  1873  left  the  tele^japh  line  at  Alice  Springs, 
travelled  generally  along  the  21st  parallel  of  latitude,  and  reached  the  sea-coast  by 
following  down  the  De  Grey  river  on  the  north-west  coast.  For  the  most  part  this 
journey  was  through  an  inferior  country  covered  with  triodia,  and  water  was  also 
very  difficult  to  find,  Warburton  was  provided  with  camels,  and  managed  alter 
great  difficulty  and  privation,  having  to  kill  his  aimels  for  food,  to  complete  the 
work  he  had  undertaken*  In  1874  I  travel letl  from  Champion  Bay,  on  the  west 
coast,  to  the  telegraph  line,  along  the  26th  parallel  of  latitude,  a  distance  by  the 
route  followed  of  nearly  2000  miles.  I  reached  the  Peake  telegraph  station  about 
GOO  miles  to  the  north  of  Adelaide,  This  exi-edition  occupied  six  mouths.  From 
Champion  Bay  for  several  hundred  miles  was  through  a  fertile  and  well-grat^sed 
couutry,  but  after  the  watershed  of  the  rivers  falling  into  the  western  coast  was 
reached,  1  encountered  the  same  inferior  district  cro8se<l  by  Warburton  further  to 
the  north.  1  was  not  provided  with  camels,  and  had  very  great  difficulty  in  making 
progress,  owing  principally  to  the  absence  of  water.    The  country  was  siightly 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION. 


698 


Tindulatiog,  and  was  from  150O  to  2000  feet  abo?e  the  sea — it  was  covered  with 
triodia,  grassy  valleys  of  limited  extent  iDtervening*  Here  aud  there  massea  of 
hills  stood  out  ahove  the  surroDDding  country,  sometimes  rising  as  much  as  1200 
feet  above  it.  The  prevailing  rock  m  this  country  waa  the  tertiary  desert  sandstone, 
so  continually  met  with  in  ceutral  Australia. 

Up  to  this  (late  (1874)  the  predictions  of  geographers  and  others  that  the  interior 
of  Australia  might  contain  a  large  inland  lake,  and  that  beyond  the  head-waters  of 
the  Mnrchison,  rivers  might  exist  nmnlng  into  the  interior  and  emptying  themselves 
into  this  lake,  had  strong  grounds  for  their  opinion.  It  was  said,  and  I  think, 
with  much  to  support  it,  that  as  the  western  riverd  took  their  rise  at  least  1500 
feet  above  the  sea,  there  would  most  prubably  be  a  watershed,  and  on  the  other 
side,  rivers  would  be  found  running  to  the  eastward. 

These  predictions  and  bo[)ea  were  for  ever  dispelled  by  my  expedition  of  1874, 
and  the  fact  was  established  that  the  drainage  of  the  interior  was  absorbed  by 
evaporation,  and  by  the  salt  murshes  which  are  found  here  and  there.  In  some 
oises  such  as  Lake  Amadeos  aud  Lake  Eyre,  these  marshes  are  of  enormous  extent, 
and  rivers  aeveml  hundred  miles  in  length  empty  into  them. 

The  next  explorer  who  crossed  from  the  telegraph  line  to  the  western  coast 
waa  Giles,  in  1875-76.  He  crosacd  to  the  west  coast  generally  along  the  30th 
parallel  of  latitude,  and  returned  to  the  telegraph  line  generally  along  the  24th 
parallel,  being  on  the  first  expedition  midway  between  ray  journeys  of  1S70  and 
1874j  and  on  the  return  journey  between  that  of  Warburton  in  1873  and  my  own 
of  1874.  In  these  exi^ieditions  Giles  had  the  advantage  of  camels  aud  was  able  to 
perform  long  journeys  without  water,  in  one  instance  travelling  over  300  miles  in 
17  days  without  finding  any.  His  experiences  were  similar  to  those  of  Warburton 
and  myself,  the  same  desert  sandstone,  the  same  triodia,  the  same  occasional  grassy 
valleys,  and  the  same  diBBculty  in  procuring  water.  Thus  four  distinct  lines  of 
exploration  were  accomplished  between  1873  and  1876,  and  this  through  country 
that  was  before  1873  a  blank  apace  on  the  map  of  Australia.  There  does  not,  in 
my  opinion,  remain  at  the  present  time  unj  problem  of  great  geographic  interest 
unsolved  on  the  Australian  contiuent. 

The  next  exploration  of  importance  was  that  of  my  brother,  Alexander  Forrest, 
in  1879,  and  was  wilhio  the  limits  of  the  rivers  falling  into  the  sea^  being  from  the 
De  Grey  river  on  the  north-western  coast  to  Port  Darwin,  nod  for  the  most  part 
along  the  18th  parallel  of  latitude.  I'his  route  was  outside  the  desert  sandstone 
tracts  traversed  by  Warburtt>n,  Giles,  and  myself,  and  waa  generally  through  a 
well- watered  and  fertile  country.  The  Fitzroy  river  was  ascended  and  mapped  as 
far  as  the  Leopold  Ranges,  wliich  are  about  iiOOO  feet  above  the  sea.  It  waa  found 
to  be  an  almost  permanent  stream,  running  through  fertile  alluvial  grassy  plains ; 
one  of  its  tributaries  was  named  the  Margaret,  and  was  followed  for  over  100 
miles  to  its  source,  and  after  crossing  the  watershed,  a  large  river,  named  the  Ord, 
was  discovered,  and  found  to  empty  into  Cambridge  Gulf.  The  result  of  thia 
expedition  has  been  the  opening  up  of  this  portion  of  Austral ia^  its  occupation  by 
fiocks  and  herds,  and  the  discovery  of  a  payable  gold-field. 

The  whole  distance  bitween  Koebuck  Bay  aid  Qimbridge  Gulf  lias  since  been 
carefully  triangulated,  aud  a  good  topogmphicai  map  has  been  compiled,  while  a 
country  which  two  year*  ago  had  scnrcely  been  visited,  except  by  the  first  explorer 
and  afterwards  by  a  few  others,  is  now  intersected  with  roads  and  cart-trtMJka,  aud 
it  is  an  easy  matter  to  drive  from  King  Sound  to  Cambridge  Gulf.  This  hurried 
settlement  has  been  chiefly  caused  by  the  discovery  of  gold  at  the  head-waters  of 
the  Fitzroy  and  Ord  rivers,  which  has  nttracted  large  numbers  of  people  from  all 
parts  of  Australia  and  New  Zealand. 


696 


PROCEEDIKGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


The  geology  of  this  part  of  Australia  is  moat  interesting,  and  altbougli  it  b&s 
been  to  flotne  extent  examined  bj  the  Itite  E.  J.  Hanlman,  whofle  labours  have  been 
much  appreciated,  and  whose  sudden  death  we  nil  so  much  deplore,  there  is  still  a 
Tast  amount  of  most  important  and  valuable  work  to  be  done.  The  immense 
basaltic  plateau,  named  by  Hardman  the  Antrim  Plateau,  covering  an  area  of  quite 
3000  fiquare  miles,  the  numerous  other  outcrops  of  liaealt,  tb©  carbomferoufl  lime- 
itones  and  sandBtones,  the  numcroua  gold-bearing  quartz  reefs,  aU  these  and  many 
others  present  a  most  invitin^;  field  for  the  geologist. 

In  a  river-bed  in  lat.  17°  20'  S,  and  long.  125®  E.,  not  far  from  one  of  the 
mimerons  limestone  ridges,  Hardman  disct^Tered  a  fossil  bone  of  the  Diprotodatt 
AustrcUiSf  the  first  specimen  of  this  extinct  mar;=itipinl  that  has  been  discovered  in 
Western  Anstralia;  and  this  discovery  now  I  think  conclusively  proves  that  this 
gigantic  animal  was  common  to  the  whole  of  Australia. 

In  1883,  and  again  in  1886,  I  visited  extreme  Kortb-westeni  Australia.  On 
the  first  occasion  I  travelled  from  La  Grange  Bay  to  the  Fitzroy  river,  ascended  it 
as  far  as  the  St,  George  Range,  and  also  examined  the  country  as  far  north  as  Port 
Usborne.  The  country  oonbists  of  rich  alluvial  grassy  plains,  is  well  watered,  is 
admirably  suited  for  settlement,  and  is  fast  being  Btocked  with  cattle,  horses,  and 
sheep.  A  township,  named  Derby,  with  a  Government  staff,  waa  also  eatablisbed  on 
the  eastern  shore  of  King  Sound.  In  1886  1  had  a  similar  duty  to  perform  in 
founding  a  Government  station,  and  selecting  a  township  named  Wyndham  on  the 
east  shore  of  the  west  arm  of  Cambridge  Gulf,  and  both  these  towns  now  bid  fair  to 
be  places  of  much  importance ;  Derby  on  King  Hound  being  the  outlet  of  the  fertile 
valley  on  the  Fitzroy  river,  and  Wyndham  on  Cambridge  Gulf  the  outlet  for  the 
fertile  valley  of  the  Ord,  while  both  are  the  ports  for  the  Kimberley  gold-fields. 
The  gold-fields  are  situated  about  250  miles  from  both  Derby  and  Wyndham. 
Good  harbours  exist  at  both  places,  the  one  at  Cambridge  Gulf  being  one  of  the  best 
in  Australia, 

It  is  very  encouraging  for  the  future  of  this  part  of  Australia,  that  in  such  a 
short  time  two  flourishing  towns  should  arise,  that  a  gold-field  should  be  discovered, 
and  that  flocks  and  herds  should  be  depasturing  on  its  rich  grassy  plains,  which  in 
the  h^ng  past  have  remained  unknown  and  unutilised. 

Australian  exploration  of  the  adveiaturous  kind  is  now  almost  a  thing  of  the 
past.  Within  less  than  a  century,  and  for  the  moat  part  within  the  space  of  an 
ordinary  lifetime,  another  Britain  has  arisen  at  the  Antipodes. 

Monday^  Septemher  ^ih. 

The  Begiimmg  of  the  Geography  of  Britain.  By  Prof.  Bovn  Dawkins, 
F*B,s.^Exploration  is  now  progressing  so  swiftly  that  in  compiratively  a  few 
yeais  the  who!e  earth  will  become  familiar  to  geographers,  with  the  exception 
of  perhaps  a  limited  area  round  the  poles,  and  we  can  look  forward  to  a  time 
when  there  wil!  b©  little  left  of  the  surface  to  conquer.  There  is,  however,  a 
geography  in  Ume^  as  well  as  a  geography  in  space,  which  has  to  be  mastered.  The 
present  surface  cannot  rightly  be  studied  without  knowiog  how  it  came  to  be  what 
it  is,  and  geology  stands  to  geography  in  the  relation  of  nncient  to  mcdem  history. 
In  this  communication  an  outline  is  laid  before  the  Section  of  the  first  beginning 
of  the  geography  of  Britain,  as  an  example  of  the  method  by  which  the  results  of 
geological  research  may  be  used  for  the  building  up  of  a  geography  m  time. 

The  results  of  the  deep-sea  expeditions,  and  more  especially  of  the  Challenger^ 
prove  that  the  accumulations  in  the  waters  of  the  sea  arc  deposited  in  a  definite  order 
and  position.  While  the  depths  of  the  ocean  are  occupied  by  large  areas  of  Globi- 
gerina  ooze  and  of  red  clay,  the  sea-bottom  at  depths  varying  from  about  750  fathoms 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION.  GS7 

to  the  shore-line  ia  covered  by  detritus  derived  from  the  bind  and  accumulated  m 
bands  more  or  le&s  broad,  and  lapping  round  ihe  present  Bhore-Hne.  We  may  follow 
Murmy  in  dividing  them  into  abyssal  or  dtep-sca  deposits,  and  margioal,  or  those 
formed  in  water  comparatively  sballow*  If  we  now  pass  on  to  tbe  examination  of 
tbe  marine  strata  of  tbe  crust  of  the  eartb,  the  first  point  to  be  remarked  is  tbat  the 
abyssal  deposits  are  conspicuous  by  their  absence,  while  all  the  marine  stratiBed 
rocks  belong  to  one  or  other  of  the  marginal  series;  in  other  words,  have  been  accu» 
mulated  on  tbe  borders  of  an  ancient  land  at  depths  not  exceeding  1000  fathoms, 
and  moat  of  them  at  a  depth  very  much  less.  The  second  point  is,  tliat  not  only  do 
tbe  marine  strata  of  tbe  earth's  crust  occur  in  definite  bands,  but  that  they  are 
arranged  in  a  definite  sequence,  which  indicates  the  position  of  the  musmfof  the 
land  00  the  shores  of  which  they  were  aocunmlated.  To  tnrn,  for  example,  to  the 
geological  map  of  Britaio,  The  newest  rocks  (tertiary)  occujjy  tbe  sonth-east^irn 
oountiea,  while  the  secondary  and  primary  rocks  form  a  series  of  bands  running 
from  the  norlb-east  to  the  south-west,  the  older  being  to  the  west,  until  tbe  series  is 
at  last  abruptly  tcrrainatcd  by  tbe  crystalline  schists,  gneisses,  and' granitoid  rocks 
of  the  Arcbaian  formLition.  If,  again,  we  make  a  traverse  from  the  Caspian  Sea 
through  St.  Peterabnrg  acd  Norway,  we  traverse  tiimilar  bands  of  secondary  and 
primary  strata,  until  we  are  in  like  manner  broUf;bt  up  by  tbe  Arcbaian  rocks.  On 
the  other  side  of  the  Ailantic  a  traverse  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  tbe  Canadian 
lakes  reveals  to  us  the  existence  of  similar  bands  of  rock,  ranged  in  the  same  order, 
and  abiujitly  ending  as  before  with  the  Arcbaian  or  Laurentian  strata.  It  is  clear, 
therefore,  that  an  ancient  continent  existed  in  the  north  and  west,  composed  of 
Arcbaian  rocks,  and  which  I  have  therefore  nametl  Archaia  *  on  the  margin  of  which 
the  newer  rocks  were  laid  down  in  both  the  Old  and  the  New  Worlds  during  the 
primary  atid  secondary  periods.  How  far  it  encroached  southwarils  into  tbe  depths 
of  the  Atlantic  may  be  left  an  open  question.  Tbe  British  I*iles  appeared  another 
world  {aiter  orhk)  to  the  Romans,  because  tbey  were  isolated  from  the  continent,  a 
view  which  is  true  not  only  historically,  but  from  the  geological  pc»int  of  view. 
They  have  been  built  up  of  materials  accumnlateil  on  the  ever-changing  south- 
eastern  margin  of  a  great  continent,  which  waa  not  Europe  but  Archaia. 

Britain  in  the  Arcbaian  age  was  covered  by  a  waste  t*f  water,  broken  only  by  a 
few  volcanic  cones,  !o  the  west  of  Snowdon,  of  St,  David's,  in  the  district  of  the 
MalverDJ*,  W*.dUngton  and  Church-S  tret  ton  in  Shropshire,  nod  in  Charnwood  in 
l4?icestcrshirG.  In  my  opinion  we  mtisi  ask  in  vain  the  question,  "  Where  was  ttie 
ahore  of  tbe  Arcbaian  Sea  ? "  So  profoundly  have  the  rocks  been  altered  and 
crumpled  since  they  were  depositeth  We  may,  however,  infer  from  the  t'n<>Tmous 
crumpling  of  the  schists  (hat  the  surface  of  tbe  earth  as  a  whole  has  contracted  to 
one-half  of  its  original  extent  at  the  close  of  tbe  Arcbaian  age  and  before  tbe 
deix)sitinp;  of  any  of  the  Cambrian  rocks,  Bj  them  changes  the  geographical 
boundaries  have  been  wholly  obliterated. 

It  ia  only  in  tbe  succeedingi  or  Cambrian  age,  tbat  we  are  able  to  mark  down 
the  shore-line  of  Archaia,  by  massive  shingle  beaches  some  8000  feet  in  thickness  in 
the  Western  Highlands,  composed  of  pebbles  torn  from  the  Arcbaian  cliffs.  At  the 
beginning  of  the  Cambrian  age  the  continent  of  Archaia  extended,  aa  Hull  points 
out,  from  tbe  western  border  of  the  Highlands  in  a  south-westerly  ilirection,  so  as 
to  touch  tbe  extreme  north-west  of  Ireland  and  to  enclose  the  area  of  the  Hebrides 
and  an  indefinite  region  to  the  north-west  now  covered  by  the  Atlantic.  It  probably 
extended  to  the  north-east  so  as  to  include  Norway.  From  this  shore  the  sea  extends 
over  the  whole  of  the  British  lalea  with  the  exception  of  small  islands  in  the  neigh- 


♦  Royal  Institution  LectureSi  188C. 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE   GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


bourhood  gf  Snowdoa  and  Anglesey,  at  St  David**,  the  Malverns  and  Church- 
StrtittoD,  Charnwocxl  near  Leicester,  and  Lickt^y  near  BirmiDghani.  During  the 
Camhrian  period  the  \vhulu  Brit'sh  area  sank  natil  it  was  covered  many  thoui>azvd 
feet  dee[)  with  Ciuubrian  sand -batik  and  inud*baDk,  The  sinking  coatiuued  during 
tlie  whule  uf  tkti  Lower  Sihiriuu  or  Ordovicean  times,  tlie  sedtments  from  the  land 
accutHuUiing  sufficieotly  swiltly  lo  prevent  any  very  deep  vvaler  in  the  Britiish  area. 
At  Ihiu  lime  no  portion  of  the  continent  of  Archaia  touched  the  Britiish  Isles.  Active 
Yolcanoetj,  however,  rose  above  the  waters,  out  of  whose  ashes  and  lava-atreams  the 
higlier  mountains  of  Cumbt»rland  and  Nortlj  Wales  have  been  carveti  They  occurred 
also  at  t5t,  David*a  and  along  the  line  of  the  St*vern.  Tlie  chlT*  of  Archaia  are  proved 
Dot  to  have  been  very  far  to  tU<?  we^t  of  Scot  land,  from  die  large  blocks  of  Archaiau 
locks  in  the  (Ordovicean  Lower  Silurian)  strata  of  Wigtonahire, 

We  have  now  to  record  a  profound  geographical  change  in  the  British  Islep,  at 
tlie  close  of  the  Ordoviceaa  time^.  The  Ordovicean  (Lower  Silurian)  rocks  were 
lilted  up  above  the  waterg  and  denucWd  before  the  deposit  of  the  Siltirian  (Upper) 
strata,  la  the  Highltintk  the  r^icka  underweot  such  eiiormous  strain  that  they  w  ere 
folded  and  broken  and  thriist  against  the  rttam/of  Archaia  with  such  force  that  an 
eaormoiis  alice  of  country  in  the  neighbourhood  of  DurueHs  has^  according  to  A. 
Geikie  and  l\ach,  been  pushed  10  miles  to  the  west  of  its  original  position  in  such 
a  raanner  as  to  brinj;  the  older  Archaian  Hocc  on  which  they  rest  immetUately  above 
them.  To  this  fieriod  ako  belong  the  faults  which  have  caused  the  line  of  weakness 
now  marked  by  the  Great  Glen  as  well  as  the  parallel  ranges  of  mountains. 

The  shingle-banks  of  the  Upper  Silurian  sea  in  the  central  valley  of  Scotland 
mark  the  shore-line  which  extended  over  the  extreme  north*western  parts  of  IreLtud. 
According  to  Hull  they  also  mark  the  presence  of  an  island  in  Southern  SootUod, 
in  Cumberlaad^  in  the  district  of  Snowdonia^  in  Haduorshire,  and  at  Churcb-Strettou 
in  Shropshire.  The  whole  of  these  islands,  however,  w^ere  sinking  during  the 
Silurian  age,  and  ail,  with  the  exception  perhaps  of  Snowdonia,  were  covered  by  the 
Upper  Silurian  waters. 

While  this  southern  area  waa  sinking  the  marine  plateau  of  the  Highlands,  so 
graphically  described  by  A.  Geikie^  was  being  attacked  by  the  snbaerial  agents  of 
denufiation,  and  the  line  of  faults  in  the  Great  Glen,  and  the  area  of  Caithness,  and 
the  eastern  jKirt  uf  the  Southern  Highlands,  erotled  and  cut  up  into  valleys,  in  the 
lower  parts  of  which  the  massive  shale  beds  and  sandstone  of  the  old  red  sandstone 
locha  was  accumulated. 

From  this  Silurian  age  ilown  to  the  Middle  Tertiary  time  the  Highlands,  or 
some  portion  of  them,  have  forn^ed  j>art  of  Archaia — a  continent  which  allowed  of  a 
free  migration  of  animals  and  plants  from  America  by  way  of  Greenland  to  Europe, 
or  vice  versa,  throughout  the  primary  and  secondary  [»eriijils,  and  as  far  down  as  the 
Meiocene  division  of  the  Tertiary, 

Eeport  of  the  Committee  on  the  Study  of  Geo^aphy  at  Oxford  and 
Oambridg'a.* — ^Ihe  Committee  met  on  the  12th  January,  1887,  and  decided  *'  That 
the  Council  of  the  British  Association  be  requested  to  give  their  support  to  the 
representations  and  offers  mi^de  to  the  Vice'Chancellors  of  the  two  Universities  by 
the  Council  of  the  Geographical  Society  in  letters  dated  July  0th  and  December 
9ih,  1886;^  t 

The  Teaching  of  Geography  at  the  Universities.  By  H.  J.  Macki^tder. 
— To  give  a  practical  value  to  the  discussion  on  the  teaching  of  geograj>hy  as 


♦  See  *  Proceedings/  1886,  p.  740, 

t  Ibid.,  p.  529.    On  Deeemher  9th  a  letter  of  similar  puTport  was  add^ased  by  the 
President  (General  B.  Strachey)  to  the  Viee-Chancellor  of  Cambridge, 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION.  699 

applicable  to  the  Universities,  I  propose  exposing  to  the  fire  of  your  criticism  my 
programme  for  the  coming  academical  year.  There  will  be  two  courses  of  lectures : 
course  A,  on  the  principles  of  geography ;  course  B,  on  the  geography  of  Central 
Europe.  In  these  lectures  no  definition  of  geography  will  for  the  present  be 
attempted.  But  to  prevent  geography  becoming;  a  discussion  of  thiogs  in  general, 
a  distinct  Hue  of  argument  will  be  kept  steadily  in  view.  This  we  may  indicate 
thus : — 

The  basis,  a  descriptive  analysis  of  the  earth's  surface,  including  in  that  term  the 
atmosphere,  the  hydrosphere,  the  form  of  the  lithosphere,  and  the  material  of  its 
surface.  From  this  we  shall  reason  backwards  to  causes,  and  forwards  to  efiects. 
The  causes  largely  geological,  the  efiects  mainly  on  man ;  in  other  words,  in  the 
former  stage  we  answer  the  question  "why?"  for  physical,  in  the  latter  for 
political  geography. 

Course  A  is  intended  to  be  annually  repeated,  subject  of  coui'se  to  improvements. 
It  will  deal  with  the  methods  and  principles  of  geographical  observation,  reasoning 
and  exposition,  with  the  great  circulations  in  air  and  water,  with  the  various  types 
of  features,  with  the  broad  facts  of  distribution  of  animals  and  plants,  and  lastly, 
with  the  dependence  of  man  on  geographical  conditions  and  the  distribution  ot  his 
social  attributes.  The  classification  will  not  be  topographical,  and  the  examples 
will  be  drawn  from  all  parts  of  the  world. 

Course  B  will  vary  in  subject  from  year  to  year,  but  will  always  be  an  analysis 
of  a  particular  region.  I  select  Central  Europe  to  begin  with,  because  it  best  fulfils 
the  necessary  conditions.  Gkxxl  topographical  surveys  give  us  with  precision  the 
form  of  the  earth.  Geological  surveys  are  available  for  causal  reasoning,  and  a  long 
history  gives  us  abundant  scope  for  the  exhibition  of  efiects. 

Ii  is  impossible  to  foretell  the  nature  of  the  elapses,  but  I  trust  to  see  at  course  B 
historical  students  ;  at  course  A,  those  who  intend  becoming  masters  in  our  great 
public  schools,  and  at  both  a  few  who  intend  being  geographical  professors,  poli- 
ticians, &C. 

As  regards  examination,  I  am  inclined  to  doubt  the  ultimate  advantage  of  the 
too  speedy  introduction  of  examinations.  We  shall  lose,  perhaps,  in  the  number  of 
students  at  first,  but  on  the  other  hand,- we  require  time  to  train  teachers,  time  to 
begin  the  traditions  of  a  school,  and  as  in  this  time  we  are  bound  to  make  experi- 
ments and  mistakea,  let  us  at  least  make  them  with  our  hands  untied  by  a  syllabus. 

One  method  of  stimulating  exertion  is,  however,  not  open  to  the  same  objectioo. 
Let  us  have  a  prize,  but  a  prize  under  special  conditions.  Provisionally  I  would 
suggest  the  following  : — Make  a  list  of  say  twenty  small  regions,  carefully  selected, 
not  too  distant  from  England,  regions  of  historical  and  physical  interest.  Let  the 
student  select  one  of  these  at  will ;  let  him  read  up  the  literature  on  the  subject, 
and  then  write  an  essay.  Award  the  prize  by  the  essays,  and  let  the  winner  use  the 
money  in  visiting  the  region  he  has  treated  theoretically.  There  let  him  revise  bis 
essay  on  the  spot,  or,  as  he  will  more  probably  do,  rewrite  it.  Then  let  it  be 
published.  Thus  I  hope  we  might  help  high  training,  and  at  the  same  time  produce 
a  valuable  set  of  monographs.  I  would  add  also,  as  a  preliminary  qualificatioD, 
attendance  at  the  reader's  lectures. 

As  regards  diagram-maf  s,  I  advocate  many  similar  outline  maps,  each  coloured 
to  represent  one  set  of  features,  hung  side  by  side. 

Lastly,  as  to  the  relation  of  phyriography  to  geography.  It  is  impossible  to 
teach  rational  geography  without  postulating  on  elementary  but  sound  knowledge 
of  certain  chemical  and  physical  laws  and  facts,  chieOy  relating  to  air  and  water. 
Thb  training,  it  is  true,  is  required  for  other  scientific  studies,  and  even  for  the 
intelligent  newspaper  reader ;  but  it  U  indispensable  to  the  geographer,  and  until  the 


700 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGKAPHICAL  SECTION 


schools  aend  m  boys  so  trained,  or  until  the  UuirersitteB  fitjpplj  such  a  coarse  Cor 
their  students  generftllj,  the  getigraphical  lecturer  will  have  to  deal  much  with 
physiography.  But  physiography  ia  Dot  geography  ;  it  lacks  tlie  topography,  which 
is  the  essential  element  in  geographji 

In  the  discussion  which  followed  Mr.  Mackinder's  paper  :^ 

The  Rev,  Canon  Thisteam  opposed  Mr,  Mackitider*8  view  that  geography  had 
but  little  concern  with  geology,  aad  criticised  the  comprehensive  range  of  subjects- 
which  it  appeared  was  to  he  taught  in  the  new  geography. 

Dr.  Yeats  congratulated  Mr.  Mackinder  on  the  grasp  which  lie  had  of  his 
subject. 

Professor  Boxn  DAWKfsts  thought  there  would  be  difficulty  in  the  carrying  out 
of  what  Mr.  Mackinder  had  described  as  a  workable  scheme.  It  seemed  to  him  to 
cover  almost  everything,  except  the  three  Uttle  maps  which  he  (Professor  Dawkins) 
had  ventured  to  bring  t>efore  the  Secretary  as  a  humble  offering  from  the  geologi- 
cal side  of  the  hedge.  He  did  not  know  whether  they  called  that  geography  or 
geology  ;  it  was  the  natural  outcome  of  geology,  but  if  it  came  to  dividing  geology 
from  geography  he  could  not  accept  the  hard  and  fast  line  which  Mr.  Macltinder  was 
inclined  to  draw.  If  we  cut  oflF  geology  from  geography  we  did  exactly  the  same 
mischief  as  by  separating  ancient  from  modern  history.  He  therefore  felt  he  ought 
to  utter  a  few  word^  of  protest. 

Professor  Seeley  argued  for  the  importance  of  geolc^'  in  geographical  study. 
Ho  appealed  most  earnestly  that  they  should  not  sever  the  present  from  the  past, 
that  we  should  not  take  the  existiog  state  of  the  earth  as  an  ultimate  fact  in  any 
one  phase,  and  not  be  content  to  borrow  our  knowledge  from  any  department  of 
science  and  assume  we  could  commence  with  its  elementary  data  and  build  on  them 
a  magnificent  supers tnictnro  of  our  own. 

Mr,  Ravenbtbif  said  that  the  scheme  which  had  been  placed  before  ihcmby  Mr. 
Mackinder  was  an  ambitious  one,  no  doubt,  and  one  which  he  would  perhaps  be 
unable  to  carry  out  in  its  entirety  within  the  limited  time  placed  at  his  disposal. 
He  thought  that  Mr.  Mackinder  intended  to  approach  his  subject  in  the  proper  spirit- 
He  was  more  especially  pleased  to  find  that  it  was  intended  to  devote  considerable 
attention  to  the  study  of  facts,  for  it  was  the  possession  of  facts  alone  which  justi- 
fied their  entering  upon  those  geographical  speculations^  which  np]Teared  to  exercise 
so  great  a  fascination  upon  certain  minds.  Geography  presented,  no  doubt,  many 
aspects  according  to  the  side  from  which  you  approached  it,  and  he  trusted  the 
multiplication  of  chairs  of  geography  in  the  Universities  would  render  it  possible  to 
do  justice  to  all  of  them.  From  the  Universities  an  adequate  knowledge  of 
geograxihy  would  spread  to  the  training  colleges  until  the  whole  body  of  our  teachers 
were  permeated  witli  it. 

Mr,  Cope  Wjiitehouse  suggested  that  geologists  themselves  needed  teaching  iu 
geography.  In  order  to  correct  what  in  his  mijid  was  an  error  on  the  part  of  the 
geologists,  he  had  just  written  to  Sir  H.  Roscoe,  oGfering  to  defray  the  expenses  of 
an  expert  to  report  upon  the  caves  in  the  island  of  Staffa,  and  upon  the  differences 
which  exist  between  the  illustrations  of  those  caves  in  the  standard  works  in  use  lu 
England,  America,  and  Germany. 

Professor  Wilkins  said  Mr,  Mackinder  evidently  meant  to  teach  geography  on  a 
scientific  haaia,  but  not  to  te^ich  geology  or  biology.  He  anticipated  that  Mr* 
Mackinder  would  have  some  difficulties  iu  his  new  work  at  Oxfonl,  and  cbietly 
because  of  the  varying  degrees  of  knowledge  with  which  the  students  would  oonie 
to  him.  To  place  the  study  of  geography  on  a  satisfactory  basis  the  University 
should  arrange  that  stndents  should  he  up  in  the  subjects  which  would  enable  them 
to  follow  the  teaching  of  the  geographical  reader,  and  which  it  was  no  part  of  his 
duty  to  teach.    Professor  Wilkina  mentioned  incidentally  that  in  the  Manchester 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATIOX. 


701 


Grammar  Sctool  geography  wai  taught  in  a  manDer  as  attractive  to  the  boys  as  it 
was  creditable  to  the  teachers, 

Mr.  Mackikoeh,  in  reply,  claimed  that  the  subjects  ho  had  indicated  could  be 
looked  at  from  dififereut  pointa  of  view,  and  that  the  jxiiut  of  view  of  the  geographer 
would  bring  into  prominence  a  special  series  of  facts  bearing  in  a  special  way  on 
geography.  He  had  in  Mancbe^ter  laat  winter  delivered  a  course  of  geographical 
lectures,  somewhat  on  the  lines  he  proposed  to  adopt  at  the  University,  and  with 
gratifying  rtsulta.  He  claimed,  therefore,  that  the  practicability  of  hia  scheme  had 
to  some  extent  been  prove<.l  by  actual  trial.  His  hope  was  at  firat  to  work  with  a 
small  class  of  men,  who  would  afterwards  go  through  the  laud  teaching  the  results 
they  had  arrived  at  in  common. 

The  Ruby  Mines  of  Burma-  By  Qeo.  Skeltoij  Stueei'Kf. — The  ruby  mine 
tract,  which  the  author  reached  in  the  company  of  a  military  culunm,  is  a  broad 
valley  some  twelve  miles  long,  lying  in  the  slo{>o  of  the  Sihwi  Dung  or  Golden 
Mountain.  The  valley  bears  unmistakable  signs  of  volcanic  origin,  its  principal 
feature  being  ridges  and  isolated  peaks  of  gneiss,  blackened  by  the  hand  of  time. 
The  mines  are  of  three  distinct  kinds :  the  first  is  furnished  by  the  metiimorpluc  rock, 
whose  mass  is  traversed  in  all  directions  by  huge  fissures,  filled  with  a  soft,  reddish^ 
clayey  earth,  generally  containing  mbies.  The  mines  are  being  worketl  by  extracting 
the  earth  between  the  walls  of  nx;k,  as  far  as  practiciible.  The  second  variety  of 
mine  is  found  on  the  sides  of  these  rocky  hills,  wh*^re  diversified  stratxi  of  clayey 
consisteocy  have  been  upheaved.  This  earth  the  natives  wash  away  hlowly,  by  a 
simple  syistem  of  hj'draulic  mining,  the  water  being  brought  from  the  mountain- 
streams  by  means  of  bamboo  or  timber  aqueducts.  The  last  system  of  mining  is  by 
sinking  pits  in  the  lower  or  level  parts  of  the  valley,  and  washing  the  earth 
extracted  by  the  hand.  In  these  pits  the  ruby-hearing  earth  is  found  in  two  layers, 
the  lower  layer  beitig  the  richer.  The  rubies  extracted  from  these  pits  are  inferior 
in  value  to  those  ubtalned  from  the  hill  mines. 

The  mining  re;iion  was  by  no  means  a  barren  stretch  of  land,  disGgured 
by  huge  pita  and  shafts*  The  contrary  was  the  case,  for  the  sloi>es  of  the  hill  were 
covered  with  trees,  shrubs,  and  tlowers,  a  great  part  of  the  level  country  was  under 
cidtivation,  and  numerous  small  villages  were  to  be  seen,  sheltered  by  the  spurs 
that  run  down  into  the  valley.  Mogok,  the  capital  of  the  district,  contained  some 
well-built  timber  houses,  three  large  kyungs  or  monasteries,  covered  with  beautiful 
carvings^  and  several  rest-houses.  It  was  surrounded  on  every  side  by  pagodas, 
many  of  which  were  covered  with  gold-leaf,  erected  by  the  principal  men  or  by 
fortunate  miners.  From  it,  paths  or  mule  tracks  led  direct  to  Bhamo,  Momeit,  and 
Mainlung,  and  also  apparently  to  Momein,  which  the  Cliines©  considered  their  frontier 
town.  On  every  fifth  day  a  large  market  was  held.  The  inhabitants  of  MogOk  were 
mostly  Burmani^ed  Shan,  but  the  villages  around  were  inhabited  by  quite  a  variety 
of  tribes.  Those  extending  down  to  the  Jrawadi  were  inhabited  by  the  pure 
Burmese,  Then  there  were  Palungs,  who  cultivated  tea  on  the  mountains  between 
China  and  Burma ;  Lisaws  in  some  of  the  more  remote  villages,  who  grew  paddy 
and  traded  in  pigs  and  firewood  ;  Katheys  from  Mimiijur ;  Meinthas  from  the  borders 
of  Yunnan,  and  also  many  pure  Chinese,  the  Patalhays  or  Mahommcdan  Chinese 
heing  the  princif>iil  traders.  Just  north  of  the  ruby  mine  valley,  on  the  top  of  the 
Sibwi  Dung  range,  6000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  a  sanitarium  for  the  British 
troops  had  been  built,  and  this  station,  christened  Bemadmyo,  promised  to  grow 
into  the  Simla  of  Burma, 

Mr.  A.  K  CoIjquhoun  (Oimuiissioner  of  Bharno,  Upper  Burma)  said  he 
thought  that  the  oil  and  aruber  industry  would  be  of  more  value  than  the  ruby 
mines  in  Burma,      He  found  the  Burmese  not  iU-disix*3ed  to  our  Government 


702 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


or  aurselvep,  but  ibej  looked  to  us  very  naturally  to  understand  and  tolerate 
their  old  customs  and  prejudiccB,  Thosa  charged  with  the  administration  of 
the  country  were  doing  their  best  to  attach  the  clergy  of  the  country  and  to  gain 
the  sympathies  of  the  people,  without  which  we  should  not  get  a  satisfactory  hold  of 
Burma  or  bo  able  to  govern  it  pro[>erly.  The  Chinaman,  he  remtirkeil,  is  the  heart 
and  soul  of  commerce  in  that  region,  Mr.  Colquhoon  warned  the  public  against 
attaching  too  much  value  to  minerals  in  Burma.  The  real  wealth  of  that  country 
waa  not  in  the  mines  but  in  the  agriculture,  forest,  and  hillside  land,  with  its  gre4it 
posaibilities  of  improvement.  He  thought  it  would  be  most  improper  to  hand 
over  this  large  country  and  intelligent  people  to  be  exploited  by  an  Eoglish 
pyndicaLe. 

Siam.  By  J.  M'CARTUY.-^WiU  "be  published  in  a  aub&equent  No.  of  the 
■  Proceedings*' 

Tke  Valley  of  the  Bio  Doce  (Brazil).  By  Wm.  Jno.  Steains.— The  author 
in  188 i.  left  Enghiod  for  Brazil  in  the  employ  of  Messrs.  Hugh  Wilsion  and  Son, 
contractors  for  the  coDstruction  of  a  railway  in  the  flouriahing  little  province  of 
Alagoas*  On  the  completion  of  this  railway  the  author,  at  Ma  own  expense, 
undertook  an  exploration  of  the  Rio  Doce  and  of  its  northern  tributaries,  w]^cb, 
notwithstanding  his  narrow  means,  and  iu  the  face  of  considerable  physical  obstacles, 
he  carried  to  a  isuccessfal  conclusion.  His  expeilitlon  left  Rio  de  Janeiro  on  June  7th, 
1885,  and  for  eight  wear}'  mouths  it  had  to  battle  against  hardships  and  privations, 
-Buch  as  want  of  provisions,  inhospitable  natives,  fevers,  and  ague. 

The  valley  of  the  Rio  Doce  is  one  of  the  most  fertile  regions  of  the  empire. 
Virgin  forests  cover  nearly  the  whole  of  it.  Gold  is  found  in  Cuiih^,  a  district  of 
Minas  Geraeg,  close  to  the  right  bank  of  the  Doce,  as  also  on  the  bead- waters  of  the 
Rio  Tambaqnary,  a  tributary  of  the  Sussuhy  Gmnde.  Most  of  the  basin  of  the 
Rio  Doce  is  inhabited  by  wild  Botocudo  Indians,  who  possess  an  inborn  hatred  of 
the  white  man,  who,  on  his  side,  luoks  upon  these  "  Bugrea  "  with  feelings  of  intense 
hom>r  and  dread.  Until  thcHo  wild  Indians  shall  at  least  have  been  partially 
civilised,  the  valley  of  thu  Rio  Doce  must  necessarily  remain  a  sealed  Paradise, 
The  few  attempts  made  hitherto  in  thia  direciion  have  hop^elessly  faileii,  perhaps 
because  of  the  gross  mismanagement  on  the  part  of  those  to  whom  the  task  was 
entrusted. 

The  author's  arduous  explorations  have  resulted  in  a  carefully  plotted  map  of 
the  Hio  Doce  and  of  its  tributaries,  based  upon  over  4000  magnetic  bearings  and 
careful  dead  reckonings.  His  map  and  drawings  were  exhibited  to  the  meeting  and 
excited  considerable  interest,  as  the  work  of  a  traveller  who  at  the  time  of  undertaking 
this  exploration  was  under  twenty-two  years  of  age. 

South-eastern  Alaska*  By  Professor  W.  Libbet,  jun.— For  the  substance 
of  this  pafjcr,  &ee  *  Bulletin  of  the  American  Geographical  Society/  No.  4,  1886. 


Tuesday,  Septemher  6M> 

Final  Eeport  of  a  Committee  on  fiathyhypsograpMcal  Maps.— Will  be 
published  in  a  subsequent  number  of  the  *  Proceedings.' 

On  some  defects  of  the  Ordnance  Maps.  By  Spenser  Wilkinsok,  m.a. 
(Abstract.)— In  cartographical  matters  England  seemed  to  the  author  to  be  a  long 
way  behind  other  countries,  and  the  few  gctod  maps  in  existence  were  only  the  ex- 
ceptions which  proved  the  rule*  The  Ordnance  Survey  had  done  so  much  exooUent 
work,  and  its  shortcomings  were  bo  largely  due  to  the  indiflference  of  Parliament, 
that  no  one  would  wi^ih  to  speak  of  it  in  any  spirit  of  fauh-finding.  His  criticism 
would  be  made  in  the  hope  of  increaaiiig  its  usefulness.     The  hills  on  the  1-inch  map 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCUTION.    •  708 

were  shaded  without  reference  to  a  definite  scale  of  shade.  The  fundamental 
principle  was  that  of  vertical  illumination,  but  light  was  sometimes  introduced  from 
a  comer  of  the  map  to  give  a  stronger  relief.  By  giving  a  pictorial  rather  than  a 
mechanical  delineation  of  the  ground  the  English  cartographer  had  been  eminently 
successful  in  representing  the  hilly  districts,  but  his  failure  where  the  unevenness 
of  the  ground  was  ouly  slight  was  very  conspicuous.  In  this  respect  the  Prussian 
general  staff  had  been  fairly  successful.  The  contours  on  the  Oidoance  Maps  were 
so  few  and  faint  as  to  have  no  practical  value.  On  the  cadastral  or  25-inch  maps, 
no  attempt  at  all  had  been  made  to  represent  the  features  of  the  ground.  The 
intervals  between  the  contours  on  both  the  6-iDch  and  the  1-inch  maps  were  too  far 
apart,  and  could  be  traced  only  with  difBculty.  Contours  on  smaller  and  equal 
intervals  had  been  used  with  much  effect  in  foreign  maps  of  even  a  smaller 
scale  than  that  of  the  Ordnance  1-inch  map.  The  "  Surrey  Hill  Survey  "  was  an 
English  example  of  the  combination  of  contours  with  shading,  but  the  contours 
were  too  far  apart  to  be  of  any  military  nse.  The  Ordnance  Survey  had  not  con- 
tributed as  freely  as  it  might  have  done  towards  the  improvement  of  cartography. 
(Jovemment  might  fairly  be  called  upon  to  furnish  the  public  with  a  good  physical 
map  of  the  British  Isles  on  a  scale  of  5  or  6  miles  to  the  inch. 

J  be  shortcomings  of  British  geography,  the  author  maintained,  were  due  to  the 
ness  of  British  geography,  and  those  of  the  Ordnance  Survey  in  particular  to 
its  connection  with  the  army,  the  one  national  institution  which  had  been  for  at 
least  a  generation,  and  until  quite  recently  in  a  state  of  intellectual  torpor.  In  con- 
clusion the  author  quoted  Ruskin  (*  Stones  of  Venice,'  vol.  ii.  ch.  vi.),  for  a  description 
of  an  ideal  map.  (The  paper  was  illustrated  by  an  exhibition  of  representative 
foreign  and  English  maps.) 

Sir  Charles  Wilson  said  the  officers  of  the  Ordnance  Survey  Department  were 
always  very  glad  to  receive  any  practical  sn^estions  for  the  improvement  of  the 
maps  of  the  country,  but  he  failed  to  see  any  practical  suggestion  in  the  paper.  The 
reader  of  the  paper  appeared  to  be  under  some  misconception  with  regard  to  the 
nature  and  character  of  the  Ordnance  Survey.  It  differed  in  some  respects  from 
those  of  foreign  countries,  which  were  made  for  purely  military  purposes.  It  was 
true  that  our  Ordnance  Survey  in  its  conception  was  military  in  character,  but  its 
military  character  was  soon  lost,  and  it  was  now  a  cadastral  survey.  The  reader  of 
the  paper  had  complained  of  the  crowded  detail  on  the  Ordnance  maps,  but  it  was  ta 
be  borne  in  mind  that  England  was  much  more  crowded  than  any  foreign  country. 
He  was  acquainted  with  most  of  the  gentlemen  who  superintended  the  foreign 
surveys,  and  he  knew  that  our  1-inch  map  was  looked  upon  as  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  pieces  of  work  that  had  been  publbhed.  With  regard  to  contours,  he  said 
they  were  tied  down  by  Parliament ;  but  he  would  like  to  say  that  the  contours  on 
the  Ordnance  Survey  were  instrumental  contours,  and  all  strictly  accurate.  The 
Ordnance  Survey  maps  indeed  were  acknowledged  to  be  the  most  mathematically 
accurate  maps  in  Europe.  Every  part  of  Great  Britain  that  could  possibly  be  ex- 
posed to  an  enemy,  or  where  camps  would  be  necessary  in  case  of  a  European  war, 
had  been  sketched  by  the  Ordnance  Survey  in  the  most  perfect  manner  on  the 
6-inch  scale.  These  maps  were  not  issued  to  the  public,  but  were  kept  in 
manuscript,  and  could  be  photographed  at  any  moment  if  required  for  use.  With 
regard  to  the  publication  of  small  maps,  he  said  the  Government  had  refrained  from 
publishing  maps  that  were  not  needed  for  State  purposes  in  order  not  to  take  the 
bread  out  of  the  mouths  of  the  map-makers  of  the  country. 

Mr.  Stotbebt  (Bath)  suggested  that  the  altitudes  of  all  heights  should  be' 
inserted  upon  the  6-inch  maps. 

Mr.  Tbelawxet  Saukdkrs  said  that  the  altitudes  inserted  upon  the  Ordiuuioe 
maps  had  not  been  selected  with  sufficient  judgment^  and  that  it  was  more  etpc 


704 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


deaimblo  to  give  the  altitudes  of  ri\^er  confluezLces  and  water-partings.  The  pablic 
were  certainly  reapoasiblo  for  many  defects  in  the  Ordnanoe  Survey,  Economy  was 
incompatible  with  perfection.  Every  eheet  now  was  out  of  dato  bef<»re  it  was 
published,  the  interval  between  the  sin-vey  and  its  publication  being  so  great.  He 
thought  that  the  services  of  local  surveyorsi  mi;;;kt  be  utilisai  in  keepiug  the  maps 
up  to  date*  Among  the  specimens  of  cartography  e3khibited  by  Mr.  Wiikinsoo,  he 
miBsed  Lehmann*fl  map  of  Saxony.  Lehmann  waa  the  Rembrandt  of  car- 
tographerB, 

Mr.  H.  B.  Mell  regretted  that  the  Ordnance  maps  gave  no  information  as  to  the 
depth  of  lakes. 

The  Prbsident  said  it  seemed  to  him  that  the  reader  of  the  paper  had  been 
compariug  the  work  on  the  Continent  of  the  |>re8ent  day  with  work  in  this  country 
of  fifty  years  ago ;  and  he  did  not  quite  understand  why  no  distinction  was  made 
between  the  work  of  an  artist  in  hill  sliading  and  scieiitiOc  accuracy  in  showing 
COD  tours.  Those  who  had  to  do  with  this  work  knew  the  difficulty  of  combining 
accuracy  with  pictorial  efifect ;  and  it  was  by  no  means  settled,  aa  the  reader  of  the 
paper  assumed,  which  system  was  beat  for  hill  shading.  For  reconnaissance  pur* 
poses  contours  only  were  used. 

Oa  the  Utilisation  of  the  Ordjianca  Survey^    By  Sir  C.  W,  WiLeojjw— 

Thirteen  years  ago,  when  prefiiding  over  the  Geo^aphical  section,  the  author  arew 
attention  to  the  maoy  practical  purposes  which  the  maps  of  the  Ordnance  Survey 
should  subserve,  and  to  the  manner  in  which  their  manifold  uses  were  ignored  by 
the  public.  The  present  year,  which  would  see  the  completion  of  the  field  work, 
seemed  a  fitting  time  to  recnr  to  the  subject.  The  authrir  then  illnstrated  the 
manner  in  which  the  Survey  might  be  ntiliaed  as  a  basis  for  the  pmper  assessment 
and  valuation  of  land  for  local  taxation ;  in  the  sale  and  transfer  of  land,  for  a 
variety  of  local  pnrjxtses,  for  educational  purposes,  and  in  many  otlier  respects.  In 
Ireland,  the  maps  were  very  largely  nsed  in  all  brnnches  of  the  administration,  and 
had  done  mnch  to  economise  labour^  but  England,  after  s{>cnding  millions  in  the 
productioQ  of  the  most  perft^ct  map  in  Europe,  hesitated  to  make  use  of  that  map  in 
the  manner  intended  by  the  able  statesmen  and  scientific  men  upon  whose  recom- 
mendations government  authorised  the  prosecution  of  the  survey  at  the  public 
expense.  The  author  drew  attention  to  the  chaotic  condition  of  the  administrative 
botmdariea,  and  hojied  that  the  piojjoatd  boundary  commission  might  find  some 
way  of  evolving  order  out  of  the  existing  chaos.  The  unit  of  the  ai-ea  should  be 
the  same  for  all  local  purposes,  and  the  larger  areas  should  be  multiples  or  aggregates 
of  that  unit.  This  would  probably  lead  to  the  division  of  the  country  into  civil 
parishes,  unions,  urban  sanitary  districts,  and  counties. 

Mr.  Wilkinson,  rising  to  reply  to  Sir  Charles  Wilfion's  remarks  on  hia  pftper« 
said  it  was  no  answer  for  Sir  C.  Wilson  to  say  that  his  suiigestiona  were  of  no  value 
because  the  Ordnance  map  was  not  a  miUtary  but  a  cndHstral  map.  He  failed  to 
see  how  the  whole  of  tlie  work  of  the  Survey  could  be  described  as  cadastral,  and  in 
particular  how  the  1-inch  map,  which  was  the  one  he  had  chiefly  crilicised,  could 
he  u^ed  for  cadastral  purposes.  It  was  no  doubt  true  that  the  contours  had  been 
limited  by  the  Parliamentary  vote,  but  they  must  ioBiet  on  Parliament  granting 
money  to  make  the  ma|is  adctpiate  in  all  respects.  Nor  was  it  an  answer  to  say 
that  they  had  better  maps  wliich  were  not  published.  It  was  one  of  his  oom plaints 
against  the  Ordnance  Survey  that  they  kept  so  much  secret. 

General  Sir  H.  Tbuillier  thought  the  Ordnance  Survey  was  a  magnificent 
production*  The  introduction  of  hill-shading  on  the  six-inch  scale  was  an 
imjMfisibility, 

On  tlie  United  States  Geographical  and  Oeologioal  Sunrey.  By 
JosiAH   FiEiiCE,  jun. — The  anthor  exhibited  twenty-five   topographical  maps  on 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION. 


706 


various  scales,  published  by  the  United  States  Survey,  and  typical  of  all  the 
important  physical  features  of  the  country.  In  doing  so  he  drew  attention  to  the 
methods  of  field-work ;  to  the  wide  use  of  the  plane-table ;  and  to  the  representation 
of  relief  by  contours. 

Note  on  a  Bathy-Orographical  Map  of  Scotland  and  the  snrroonding 
Seas.— By  H.  R.  Mill,  d.so. 

A  Plea  for  the  Meter.  By  E.  G.  Ravexstein,  —  There  have  not  been 
wanting  in  this  country  advocates  for  the  meter,  and  of  a  decimal  system  of  weights 
and  measures  generally.  Such  a  system,  based,  however,  upon  the  existing  yard, 
was  recommended  by  a  Royal  Commission  as  long  ago  as  1839,  when  terms  like 
"  milyard,"  "  millet,"  and  "  centner "  were  recommended  at  the  time  for  general 
acceptance.  It  is  obvious,  that  a  decimal  system  could  be  introduced  without 
introducing  the  meter,  but  I  also  maintain  that  at  this  day  the  meter  is  that 
among  the  international  units  of  length  which  has  most  chances  of  being  generally 
accepted. 

I  am  not  concerned  here  to  defend  the  meter  as  a  unit  of  length.  If  the  question 
of  an  international  unit  of  length  had  to  be  determined  at  the  present  time,  it  is 
very  probable  that  the  meter  would  not  secure  a  majority  of  votes,  the  illusory 
notion  of  its  being  in  any  sense  a  ''natural"  unit,  and  therefore  entitled  to  some 
particular  degree  of  respect,  having  long  since  been  dispelled.  Geographers  and 
surveyors  would  perhaps  prefer  a  unit  equal  to  the  military  pace  of  30  inches, 
whilst  others,  and  I  believe  a  majority,  would  be  in  favour  of  retaining  the  foot. 
Indeed,  had  a  system  of  decimal  weights  and  measures  been  built  up  with  the 
English  foot  for  a  unit,  even  fifty  years  ago,  it  is  just  possible  that  those  countries 
which  had  not  at  that  time  accepted  the  meter  would  have  accepted  the  foot,  whose 
reign  might  then  have  been  perpetuated  for  all  time. 

But  regrets  avail  nothing.  The  meter  is  too  firmly  established  as  an  inter- 
national measure  ever  to  be  displaced.  The  units  of  length  of  the  countries  of  the 
world  fall  into  the  four  following  groups  v — 


Area. 


PopuUtion. 


Countries  using 

the  English 

Foot. 


Countries  using 
the  Meter. 


Countries  using 

the  Castilian 

Foot. 


Countries  using 

various  measures 

of  length. 


United  Kingdom       

British  Colonies  and  Dependencies 

United  States 

Russian  Empire        

Hawaii,  South  African  Republics  . 

EnropNean  States        

Colonies  and  Dependencies  of  ditto . 
American  States       

Egypt 

Central  America       

Dominican  Republic        

Bolivia  and  Paraguay      

Denmark  and  Dependencies   ..     . 

Asia 

Africa 


t»q.  miles 
121,483 

8,854,327 
.577,390 

8,457,290 
177.622 


18,188.112 

2.530,500 

2,692.300 

6,954,400 

494,000 


12.671,200 

168.305 

20.596 

564,000 


752,901 

90,000 
7.223,000 
8,984,000 

16,297,000 


35,242,000 
279,599,000 

50,153,000 

104.002,000 

2,085,000 


471,081,000 

229,781,000 

70,421,000 

40.083,000 

6.806,000 


347,091,000 

2,829,000 

300,000 

2,776,000 


5,905,000 

2,083,000 
401,000,000 
150,000,000 

553,088,000 


GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTIOK  OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATIOX. 


This  table  shows  that  the  CiuLiUaQ  foot,  loDg  since  discarded  \tj  Spain,  still 
carries  on  a  liogeriug  existence  in  Central  and  South  America,  but  it  is  sure  to  be 
displaced  by  the  meter,  which  encircles  it  on  all  sides. 

Tiie  English  Foot^  amoDg  the  three  really  iaternatiooal  uniu  of  length,  occupies 
as  yet  the  largest  area,  and  is  at  least  officially  made  n^e  of  by  the  greatest  x)opiila- 
liun.  It  is  more  especially  India  which  givc«  it  ttus  prepoDderance  in  area  and 
population.  In  India,  however,  the  metrical  system  of  weights  and  measures  of 
capacity  Ima  been  introduced  by  an  Act  paaaed  in  1871,  and  although  this  does  not 
necessarily  lead  to  the  introduclion  of  the  meter,  it  yet  shows  that  there  exists  a  bias 
iu  favour  yf  the  metrical  isystem.  If  we  examine  into  the  condition  of  the  countries 
which  have  not  tta  yet  accepted  an  international  unit  of  length,  we  shall  find  that 
the  chances  tor  the  introduction  of  the  English  foot  are  very  small  indeed. 

The  meter  holds  n  very  different  positinn.  Its  victorious  career,  begun  at  the 
opening  of  the  century,  has  not  yet  come  to  an  end,  and  its  latest  conquest  was  made 
as  recently  as  January  last,  when  it  was  accepted  as  the  legal  standard  throughout 
the  Argentuae  Confederation.*     Its  introduction  into  Japan  is  contemplated. 

Denmark  and  Russia  are  at  the  present  day  the  only  countries  of  continental 
Europe,  which  have  not  as  yet  adopted  the  meter.  As  a  matter  of  fact  the  meter  is 
much  more  widely  used  than  appears  from  the  above  statement  of  areas  and  popuhi- 
tion,  for  the  scientiiic  men  of  all  countries  have  very  generally  accepted  it  for  carry- 
ing on  their  work  and  for  recording  the  results  of  their  scientific  investigations. 

I  cannot  conceive  of  the  commercial  and  reading  classes  of  this  country  having 
an  inBuperable  objeciion  to  the  substitution  of  the  meter  for  the  yard  or  foot.  As  a 
matter  of  fact  the  trade  carried  on  between  Great  Brilain  and  countries  using  tlie 
meter  embraces  nearly  one-half  of  the  total  trade  of  the  country,  for  in  1885  the 
exports  and  Imports  were  as  follows  i — 

To  or  from  countries  using  the  English  foot     ..     £292,707,000,  50 '1  per  cent. 
„      „  „  „      meter      ..         ..       2.S3,0ll,OO0,  48*5      „ 

„      „      the  rest  of  the  World..  ••         ,.  S,295,00O,    1*4      „ 

Even  the  most  conservative  business  man  must  adroit  that  the  universal  accept- 
ance of  the  meter,  and  of  the  metrical  system  generally  would  very  much  facilitate 
many  of  his  transactions,  whilst  the  Bchoot master  must  concede  that  the  time  At 
present  expended  without  any  appreciable  profit  to  the  mental  development  of  their 
pupils  in  acquiring  a  knowledge  of  an  absurdly  complicated  system  of  weights  and 
measures  might  be  devoted  to  more  useful  suhjects. 

But  whatever  may  be  said  by  men  of  business  or  by  schoolmasters,  I  must  oon- 
fidently  assert,  as  one  who  for  many  years  has  been  engaged  upon  geographical  and 
statistical  work^  that  the  introduction  of  tho  meter  and  of  the  system  intimately 
connected  with  it,  would  prove  an  immense  boon.  It  would  result  in  an  immense 
saving  of  time,  at  present  spent  upon  the  conversion  of  the  most  heterogeneous 
foreign  measures,  it  would  free  our  books  from  mistakes,  due  to  errors  of  computa- 
tion, and  would  render  directly  comparable  the  results  recorded  by  dififerent 
observers. 

I  do  not  hesitate  to  assert,  that  irrespective  of  local  surveys,  the  scientific  work 
of  interest  to  geographers  generally,  which  is  done  in  countries  using  the  meter,  or 


*  Date  of  the  introflnetion  of  the  meter  into  the  principal  conntrics :— 1 803»  I/>m- 
bnrdy;  1819,  Nctliorlauds  and  Belgiom  ;  1  S3 G,  Greece  ;  18j0.  S^ardinia ;  185G,  Ecnailor : 
1857,  Venezuela*  Culumhia ;  1859,  Spain  :  18(30,  Poriugal,  Peru;  18G2,  Brazil,  Uruguay; 
1805,  Chili;  1808;  Gerrmmy  ;  1875»8ervia,  Xotwuy;  1870,  Austria -Hungary,  Eomaiiiu, 
Egypt;  187»,  Sweden ;  1S82,  Turkish  Ejupire  ;  1881,  Mexico j  1887,  Argentine 
Republic 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOGUCnXS.  707 

done  in  other  lands,  but  recorded  in  meters,  far  exceeds  all  the  rest  in  balk  and  in- 
trinsic value.  It  should  not  be  forgotten  that  the  geographer  is  not  solely  con- 
cerned about  the  heights  of  mountains  or  the  distances  between  different  localities. 
He  is  bound  to  take  a  more  comprehensive  view  of  his  duties,  and  since  the  workers  in 
other  departments  of  science  have  so  largely  adopted  the  meter,  he  should  follow 
this  praiseworthy  example. 

Oeography,  however,  is  so  intimately  connected  with  the  common  affairs  of  life, 
that  there  is  little  hope  of  the  meter  being  generally  accepted  until  it  shall  have 
become  the  legal  standard  of  length.  Such  a  change  would  no  doubt  be 
accompanied  by  some  inconvenience,  but  what  has-been  possible  in  G^ermany  and  in 
Greece,  should  not  be  impossible  in  England,  where  every  Board-school  child  is 
taught  the  principles  of  the  metrical  system. 

Mr.  G.  A.  Kesselmeybb  (President  of  the  Anglo-Metric  Association)  objected  to 
the  French  meter  that  it  was  not  a  perfect  decimal,  and  he  gave  some  explanations 
with  regard  to  a  "one-aught"  of  twelve  units  (in  which  10  and  11  have  separate 
signs),  which  he  thinks  would  better  answer  the  purpose. 


PSOCEEDINGS  OP  FOSEIGN  SOCIETIES. 

Oeographioal  Society  of  Berlin,  October  8th,  1887 :  Professor  Saohau  in 
the  Chair. — ^The  death  of  Professor  Eoner  was  announced,  who  for  many  years 
acted  as  librarian  and  editor  of  the  *  Zeitschrift'  of  the  Society.  He  succumbed  on 
the  29th  September  to  an  attack  of  inflammation  of  the  lungs.  Professor  H.  Kiepert 
gave  some  personal  reminiscences  of  the  late  Dr.  Koner,  whose  friendship  he  had 
enjoyed  for  a  period  of  fifty  years.  Wilhelm  Koner  was  bom  in  Berlin  in  the  year 
1817,  and  occupied  for  many  years  the  poet  of  director  of  the  University  Library 
at  Berlin.  He  published  with  his  friend  Guhl  from  1860  to  1864  the  work  entitled 
'  Leben  der  Griechen  und  Romer,  nach  antiken  Bildwerken  dargestellt,'  which  has 
since  been  translated  into  almost  every  European  language.  In  1861  he  undertook 
the  editorship  of  the  *  Zeitschrift/  for  which  he  during  thirty-two  years  compiled  the 
valuable  bibliographical  notices  of  newly-published  geographical  books  and  maps. — 
Dr.  Mense,  formerly  a  doctor  in  the  service  of  the  Congo  State  at  Leopoldville,  gave 
an  account  of  his  journey  up  the  Ewango  in  company  vrith  the  Rev.  G.  Grenfell. 
The  Ewango  at  the  point  of  its  discharge  into  the  Eassai  forms  a  delta,  which  was 
reached  by  the  party  on  the  16th  December  in  the  steamer  Peace.  The  direction 
of  the  river  is  here  almost  directly  contrary  to  that  of  the  Eassai,  and  forms  with 
the  latter  an  angle  of  110^.  As  in  the  case  of  the  Wabuma  tribe  on  the  lower  Eassai, 
female  government  prevails  in  the  villages  along  the  lower  Ewanga  The  women 
wear  heavy  brass  hoops,  often  weighing  from  15  to  20  lbs.,  round  their  necks.  The 
river  is  here  from  700  to  800  yards  in  breadth,  and  flows  through  a  low  grass 
country.  In  the  afternoon  of  the  second  day  of  the  voyage  up-stream  a  tributary 
with  deep  black  water,  and  possessing  a  breadth  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  was  dis- 
covered flowing  from  the  south-east;  it  is  perhaps  the  Saia  or  Euilu  of  Eund's 
expedition.  The  natives  called  it  Djuma.  Above  this  point  the  banks  of  the  river 
are  covered  with  a  forest  of  lofty  trees,  full  of  caoutchouc-lianas  and  valuable  timber 
in  greater  abundance  than  is  to  be  found  anywhere  on  the  middle  Congo.  Whether 
this  forest  is  only  a  gallery  wood,  or  whether  it  extends  far  inland  from  the  river- 
banks,  the  party  were  unable  to  determine,  owing  to  its  impenetrable  character. 
The  river  gradually  widens  up  to  a  breadth  of  about  11  mile,  and  becomes  in  conse- 
quence more  shallow.  The  numerous  sandbanks  impeded  very  considerably  the 
progress  of  the  vesseL     The  inhabitants  of  this  region  appear  to  live  chiefly   by 

No.  XL— Nov.  1887.]  3  d 


708 


PEOCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


fiiihing;  they  were  timid,  and  fled  at  the  approach  of  the  ateamer.  The  Dumber  of 
hippopotami  was  exceptionally  large ;  herda  of  from  sbtty  to  seventy  animals  were 
met  with.  The  natives  of  a  village  reached  on  20th  December,  who  called  them* 
selves  Wal)ondo,  wore  some  fairly  good  cotton-stuffSj  purchased  from  coaat  traderB, 
A  new  affluent  with  black  water,  and  coming  from  the  S.S.W.,  was  discovered  on 
the  same  day  in  3*^  45'  S»  lat.  This  stream,  which  has  a  breadth  of  about  170  yards, 
ia  perhaps  the  Wambo  of  Lieutenant  Kund.  From  this  jxiint  the  course  of  the 
Kwango,  hitherto  south-west,  runs  due  east  and  west.  The  natives  appeared  her©  ia 
large  bands,  and  showed  a  hostile  disfjositioo,  but  the  guard  of  wire -netting  afforded 
protection  from  their  arrows,  and  the  steam-whistle  did  the  rest  The  lofty  trees  of 
the  forest  here  begin  gradually  to  disappear,  giving  place  to  a  savannah  district  on 
both  aides  of  the  river.  The  country  hecomes  hilly,  and  is  sparsely  pop  [dated  by  the 
Wampfuno,  who  also  dwell  in  the  rt^gion  south  of  Stanley  Pool.  The  inhabitants 
of  a  village  which  was  passed  on  2t3rd  December  were  flcquaint<?d  with  the  village  of 
Kintamo  on  Stanley  Pool,  and  stated  that  it  could  be  reached  in  from  five  to  six 
days' journey  from  their  village.  The  Kwango  now  flows  with  rapid  stream  between 
the  precipitous  slopes  of  plateaus  from  700  to  1100  feet  high,  its  course  being 
studded  with  islands  and  sandbanks.  On  the  evening  of  the  24 Lh  the  party  reached 
a  point  in  4"^  26'  S.  lat^  where  the  river  begins  in  numerous  curves  to  take  a 
southerly  direction  again.  In  doep  gorges,  which  often  confine  it  into  a  narrow  bed 
not  more  than  300  yards  w^iile,  the  river  continues  its  course  in  sharp  bends  to  the 
south*  The  tenitory  of  the  Bakundi  was  next  traversed,  Neither  among  these 
people  nor  among  the  Wampfnno  was  any  trace  of  cannibalism  observed,  although 
bith  these  tribes  are,  according  to  travellers,  guilty  of  this  practice.  On  the  27th  of 
December,  after  a  very  arduous  voyage  through  much -disturbed  water  and  rocky 
channels,  the  i>arty  arrived  at  the  KicguDJi  rapids,  which  are  only  about  three  feet 
high.  The  boat  left  behind  some  time  ago  by  Major  von  Mechow  was  no  longer 
there,  but  was  sttU  preserved  hy  the  chief  of  the  village  Kiindinga.  The  return 
journey  on  board  the  steamer  was  accomplished  without  any  noteworthy  incident, 
and  on  the  3rd  of  January  the  Peace  wivs  again  in  Stanley  Pool. — A  letter,  dated 
Hth  August,  from  Taveta  was  read,  giving  an  acconnt  of  the  successful  ascent  of 
Kilimanjaro  by  Dr*  Hans  Meyer  of  Leipzig,  who,  in  the  course  of  a  tour  round  the 
world,  has  visited  East  Africa,  and  by  this  feat  has  surpasised  all  the  attempts  of  his 
prede€5cssor8,  Rehmann,  V,  d.  Decken,  Thornton,  Kersten,  New,  Thomson,  and 
Johnston.  On  the  first  day  the  traveller  started  from  Marcale's  village  in  Maruogn- 
land,  and  reached  the  lower  boundary  of  the  virgin  forest.  On  the  second  he 
marched  through  the  rain-drenched  primeval  forest,  and  pitched  his  camp  on  the 
upfNcr  limit,  upon  the  site  of  Johnston's  old  camp.  On  the  third  day  he  crossed  the 
treeless  region  of  the  grass  meadowp,  and  arrived  at  the  first  snow.  The  fourth  day 
was  occupied  with  the  ascent  through  the  region  of  lava  and  ashes  and  bare  of 
vegetation  up  to  the  foot  of  the  Kibo  crater.  On  the  fifth  day  Kibo  was  ascended 
as  far  as  the  edge  of  the  crater,  where  an  overhanging  glacier  wall,  150  feet  high, 
prevented  the  traveller  from  reaching  the  crater  itself;  he  was,  moreover,  quite 
alone,  having  been  compelled  to  leave  behind,  some  1000  feet  below,  his  only 
black  servant  Mauri,  who  had  coumgeonsly  followed  him  into  the  ice  region,  but 
had  become  imconBcioos  in  consequence  of  the  cold.  On  the  same  day  tlie  traveller 
returned  to  the  foot  of  Kibo,  and  on  the  day  following  photographs  were  taken  of 
the  high  pLiteau  between  Kibo  and  Ki  ma  wen  si,  and  of  the  chain  of  volcanic  hills 
crossing  the  same ;  geological  and  toiK>graphical  surveys  were  also  made.  Dr.  Meyer 
remained  several  days  in  the  region  of  the  first  snow,  making  botanical  coltections. 
Another  fortnight  was  spent  by  the  traveller  in  Mareale*s  village  fur  the  purpose  of 
collecting.  He  then  puqxjsed  to  travel  through  the  country  of  Kahe  and  Arusha  to 
the  Upper  Bnfu,  and  to  return  along  the  latter  river  to  the  coast. 


(     709    ) 

NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 
(By  J.  SooTT  Eeltie,  Librarian  B.aji.} 

EUBOPE. 

[Adria.] — ^Pbysikaliscbe  UntersncbungeQ  in  der  Adria.  Ein  Beitrag  yon  Julius 
Wolf  und  Joaef  Luksch,  Professoren  an  der  K.K.  Marine-Akademie.  Wien, 
Carl  Gerold's  Sohn,  1887 :  870.,  pp.  22.    Price  8^^.    [Presented  by  tbe  Publisher.] 

Tbis  is  a  minute  pbysiograpliical  study  of  tbe  district  of  Adria,  and  contains 
a  sheet  of  maps  showing  tbe  temperatures,  currents,  salinity,  and  depths  of  tbe 
sea.  It  may  be  regards!  as  a  good  example  of  minute  geo<n»pbical  inquiry^ 
while  the  results  are  of  value  as  a  contribution  to  our  knowledge  of  tbe  physics 
of  the  Adriatic. 

Baedeker,  K. — Great  Britain :  England,  Wales,  and  Scotland,  as  far  as  Locb 
Maree  and  tbe  Cromarty  Firth.  Handbook  for  Travellers.  Leipsic,  Karl  Baedeker ; 
London,  Dulau  &  Ca,  1887 ;  12mo.,  pp.  Iziu  and  530.  Price  10s.  [Presented  by 
Messrs.  Dulau  &  Co.] 

Tbis  work  appears  to  have  been  very  carefully  done  by  Mr.  J.  F.  Muir- 
bead,  but  it  omits  the  whole  of  Ireland  and  the  northernmost  part  of  Soot- 
land.  These  omissions,  however,  we  learn  from  tbe  preface,  the  editor  hopes  to 
supply  on  a  future  occasion.  Too  much  space  appears  to  have  been  given  to 
tbe  south  of  England,  and  in  subsequent  editions  we  would  surest  that  the 
matter  bearing  on  this  part  be  more  compressed,  and  Ireland  ana  tbe  north  of 
Scotland  included.  Tbe  introduction  includes  an  Historical  Sketch  of  Architec- 
ture in  England,  by  Prof.  E.  A.  Freeman.  There  are  14  maps,  24  plans,  and 
a  panorama  illustrating  the  volume.  The  maps  do  not  appear  to  be  quite  up  to 
the  standaid  of  Baedeker's  other  ^des,  and  it  seems  to  us  that  better  work  is 
done  in  England,  as  may  be  seen  m  Baddeley*s  guides. 

Bohm,  [Dr.]  August. — Eintbeilung  der  Ostalpen.  Geograpbische  Abhandlungen 
herausgegeben  von  Prod  Dr.  Albreobt  Penck.  Band  I.  Heft  3.  Wien^  Holzel : 
imp.  8vo.,  pp.  viii.  and  235.    [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

This  is  the  concluding  part  of  the  first  volume  of  Professor  Penck's '  Geo- 
grapbische Abhandlungen '  and  like  the  previous  parts  forms  an  important 
contribution  to  scientific  geography.    The  author  has  made  a  thorough  study  of 
bis  subject  both  from  the  geological   and  physical  standpoints.     He  points 
out  that  orography  has  first  of  all  to  do  with  mountains  and  then  with  valleys, 
and  last  of  all  with  river  courses,  which  last,  as  a  basis  of  classification  fVom  an 
orograpbical  point  of  view,  do  not  always  represent  a  complete  whole.    In  the 
first  section  of  the  work,  the  author  seeks  to  trace  tbe  evolution  of  the  divisions 
of  the  Alpine  mass  from  the  remotest  epoch.    In  the  second  section,  he  treats 
of  the  principal  aspects  of  mountain-grouping,  and  seeks  to  obtain  a  new  basis 
on  which  to  ground  it.     In  the  third  part,  he  applies  his  principles  to  the 
divisions  of ,  tbe  Eastern  Alps.     A  natural  division  must  be  regulated  by  the 
character  of  the  subject  viewed  from  all  sides ;  so  that  the  physiognomy  of  the 
mountains,  and  their  oroplastic  and  {ideological  structures  must  all  be  equally 
considered,  in  attempting  to  form  a  division.    Dr.  Bohm's  main  divisions  are : 
(1)  The  Gneiss  Alps;  (2)  Slate  Alps;  (3)  North  Limestone  Alps;  (4)  South 
Limestone  Alps ;   (5)  The  Elagenfurt  Basin.     Under  these  main  divisions, 
which  it  will  be  seen  are  essentially  geological,  are  eighteen  subdivisions.    The 
whole  are  clearly  plotted  on  a  good  map.    In  tbe  preface  to  the  first  volume  of 
the    Abhandlungen,    Dr.  Penck  speaks  hopefully  of  his  imdertaking,  and 
promises  in  the  future  the  following  memoirs: — The  Ptoiir  Begion,  by  Dr. 

8  D  2 


710 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATJONS. 


Wilhelra  Geiger ;  Distribution  of  Atmospberic  Presaure  in  Central  Europe,  by 
Dr,  Hano ;  1  he  Cordillera  of  Merida,  by  Dr.  W*  Sievera ;  and  on  the  Origin 
of  OficillfttioDJS  hi  Underground  Waters,  by  Dr.  laidor  Soyka. 

CooUdge,  W.  A.  B.,  DEbamel,  H,,  Perrin,  P.— Guide  du  Haut-Dauphfu^. 
Grenoble,  Gmtier,  1H87  :  8to.,  pp.  lix.  and  442.    [Presented  by  the  Publiaber,] 

For  the  Alpinist  tbis  is  a  model  guide-book.  There  is  notbiog  saperfluotis, 
Tbe  introduction  contains  a  bibliography  and  cartography,  together  with  some 
carefully  compiled  geological  information.  The  re«t  of  the  book  is  divided  into 
Hectiona,  according  to  tho  vaiious  massifs  of  the  Dauphiny  Alps,  and  under  each 
section  are  methodiail  tables  of  the  order  of  itineraries,  tables  of  centres  of 
excursions,  and  succinct  but  clear  directions  as  to  the  best  routes  to  the  variooa 
points  and  peaks,  the  authorities  for  each  route  being  always  stated.  The  index 
at  the  end  rinders  the  book  easy  of  consultation,  the  flexible  binding  and 
pockets  render  it  manageable,  and  the  broad  margin  Icavea  room  for  notes. 
The  majis  for  the  volume  will  be  issued  later. 

Bavidson,  T.  M. — Geography  of  the  British  lales  from  tea  different  standpoints, 
with  21  maps.  London,  Thomas  Lirarie,  1886 :  small  4to.,  pp.  52.  Price  2^.  Gd. 
("Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 

The  "  ten  different  standpoints'*  of  Mr.  Davidson's  Atlas  and  textbook  are 
the  following:  Interoal  Physical  Features, External  Physical  Features, Mineral 
Wealth,  Industrial  Pursuits  and  Commerce?,  Populations,  Railways,  Canals, 
Steampacket  and  Naval  Stations,  Battlefields,  Cathedral  towns,  &c*.  History 
and  People,  Counties  and  Principal  Towns,  Watering  Places  and  Mineral  Waters, 
This  division  is  to  some  extent  in  the  right  direction,  but  is  essentially 
artificial,  and  without  much  logical  Heqiience.  Why,  for  example,  should  the 
**  internal "  and  the  '*  external  '*  physical  features  l^  sepamted,  as  if  they  were 
totally  unconnected?  The  text,  though  an  improvement  on  the  ordinary  text- 
book, is  still  too  much  a  mere  list  of  names^  though  we  can  conceive  that  with 
the  maps,  in  the  hands  of  a  good  teacher,  the  book  would  be  useful  as  a  collection 
♦jf  hints,  llie  maps  are  the  best  feature^,  so  far  as  their  character  is  concerned, 
the  principle  being  to  show  one  thiDg  in  one  map  i  but  their  execution  is  poor. 

G^ikle^  Archibald, — The  Scenery  of  Scotland  viewed  in  connection  with  it« 
Pijysical  Geology,  Second  edition.  London,  Macmillaa  and  Co.,  1887 :  8to., 
ppb  XX.  and  481.     Price  12s.  Bd.    [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

It  is  twenty-two  years  since  the  first  edition  of  this  work  was  published, 
and  it  at  once  gave  its  author  a  high  ^^osition  as  an  eloquent  writer,  as  well 
ns  an  accomplished  geologist.  The  work  has  been  to  a  laiige  extent  rewritten 
iind  greatly  extended  for  the  present  edition,  and  many  new  illustrations 
introduced.  It  is  an  excellent  example  of  the  ap[«hcation  of  geolo^jy  to  an 
interpretatioTi  of  the  existing  surface;  it  is  indeed  a  treatise  on  the  science  of 
scenery  so  far  as  Scotland  is  conceraeil,  and  will  re|)ay  serious  study  by  the 
student  of  geography.  In  the  first  part  of  the  volume  Mr.  Geikie  treats  of 
kmd-aculpture  in  general,  and  in  this  department  of  his  science  lie  is  unsur- 
pusBed.  The  action  in  moulding  the  features  of  the  earth  into  their  present 
fashion  is  dcBcrihed  clearly  and  graphiaiUy  of  air,  rain,  rivers,  sjirings,  frost; 
the  sea;  glaciers  and  iceberga.  Part  ii.  deals  with  the  Scottish  Highlands, 
their  physical  fi-aturcs  and  geological  Btructure.  Successive  chaptei^  are 
devoled  lo  the  tableland  of  the  Highlands;  the  Highlimd  valleys;  the  High- 
land hills ;  the  Highland  lakes ;  the  ancient  ice-sheets  aod  glaciers  of  the 
Highlands.  Part  iii.  deals  with  the  tsouthern  Uplands,  in  which  also  the  work 
of  the  ancient  glaciers  is  described.  Then  conieH,  in  j^art  iv.,  the  Midland 
valley,  in  connection  with  w^hich  we  have  chapters  on  the  Denudation  of  the  Lowr- 
lauds,  the  Glaciation  of  the  Lowlands,  the  latest  modifications  of  Scottish  scenery, 
and  a  most  instructive  chapter  on  the  influence  of  the  physical  features  of  Scot- 
tand  upon  the  people.     This  last,  Mr.  Geikie  points  out,  may  bo  seen  (1)  in  the 


M 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS.  711 

distribution  and  migration  of  races ;  (2)  in  the  historical  development  of  a 
people ;  (3)  in  industrial  and  commercial  progress ;  and  (4)  in  natural  tempera- 
ment and  literature.  Each  of  these  points  he  treats  with  necessary  brevity ; 
he  shows,  for  example,  how  the  topographical  surroundings  have  given  rise  to  the 
marked  differences  that  exist  between  the  Scottish  Gael  and  his  kinsman  the 
Celt  of  Ireland.  A  very  useful  detailed  itinerary  is  appended,  and  the  book 
ought  to  be  studied  by  any  one  desirous  of  greatly  increasing  the  pleasure  of  a 
trip  to  Scotlaud. 

Oumprecht,  Otto. — Der  Mittlere  Isonzo  und  sein  Verbal tniss  zum  Natisone.  £in 
Beitrag  zur  Losung  der  Frage  nach  dem  Alter  des  Isonzosy stems.  Mit  einer  Tafel 
Karten.  Leipzig,  Gustav  Fock,  1886:  8vo.,  pp.  46.  [Presented  by  the 
Publisher.] 

This  is  a  careful  special  study  of  the  hydroCTaphy  of  the  region  watered  by 
the  little  river  Isonzo,  which  discharges  into  the  Gulf  of  Trieste.  The  author 
shows  that  the  Natisone,  which  now  runs  into  the  Torre,  a  tributary  of  the 
Isonzo,  ran  direct  to  the  latter  through  the  Staroselo  valley,  imtil  the  end  of 
the  Tertiary.  He  traces  minutely  the  changes  which  have  led  to  the  alteration 
of  its  course. 

Hanusz,  Etienne.— La  Lutte  de  I'Existence  des  Plantea  dans  les  Pusztas  (Steppes) 
Hongroises.  *  Bulletin'  of  the  Hungarian  Geographical  Society,  tome  xv. 
fascicule  xii.,  1887. 

Hess,  Heinrich. — lUustrirter  Fiihrer  durch  die  Zillerthaler  Alpen  und  die  Rieser- 
femer-Gruppe.  Wien,  Hartleben,  1887:  8vo.,  pp.  260.  Price  6».  [I^resented 
by  the  Publisher.] 

This  seems  an  excellent  guide,  quite  equal  to  Baedeker's  best.  It  is  well 
arranged,  b^utifully  printed,  and  copiously  supplied  with  maps  and  pictures  of 
the  best  class.  It  is  one  of  an  extensive  series  of  guides  to  special  regions  in 
Central  and  South-eastern  Europe,  for  which  we  have  no  English  equivalents. 
There  are,  e.  g.,  guides  to  such  regions  as  the  Danube,  to  the  Carpathians, 
Carinthia,  Styria,  Dalmatia,  &c 

Xirchhoff,  Alfred* — Einleitung  in  die  Landerkunde  von  Europa.  Sonderabdruck 
aus  der  *  Landerkunde  der  fiinf  Erdteile.'  Prag,  F.  Tempsky ;  Leipzig,  G.  Frey- 
tag,  1886 :  imp.  8vo.,  pp.  87,  maps.    [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

Havez,  Lonis> — De  rinfluence  des  Formations  G^ologiques  en  Belgique.  '  Bulletin ' 
of  the  Royal  Belgian  Geographical  Society,  No.  4,  1887. 

This  is  a  careful  study  of  the  influences  exerted  by  the  character  of  the 
surface  of  Belgium,  mainly  upon  the  people  and  their  industries.  M.  Nayez 
considers  Belgium  specially  suited  for  such  an  investigation,  as  there  is  so  com- 
paratively small  variation  in  altitude  and  climate,  that  the  geological  influence 
may  easily  be  singled  out.  Ho  brings  out  strikingly  the  intimate  relations 
which  exists  between  natural  resources,  industries,  and  density  of  population. 

Palgrave,  Maxy  E. — Pictorial  Geography  of  the  British  Isles.  London,  S.P.C.K., 
1887 :  oblong  4to.,  pp.  102.    Price  5«.     [Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 

The  chief  value  of  this  book  is  that  the  pictures  are  likely  to  give  children, 
into  whose  hands  they  may  fall,  an  interest  in  geography.  The  text  has  been 
written  with  considerable  care,  and  though  somewhat  unsystematic,  seems 
sound,  and  on  the  whole  in  the  right  direction.  Many  of  the  pictures  are 
evidently  old  and  worn,  and  some  of  them  poor  and  out  of  date.  The  picture 
of  St.  Andrews  on  p.  25  must  be  very  old ;  that  of  Greenock  on  next  page  is 
useless.  With  the  many  fine  photographs  available,  the  picture  of  the 
Barmouth  Estuary  on  p.  26  is  unpardonable.  On  the  feeble  picture  of  Snowdon, 
p.  37,  the  point  of  view  ought  to  be  stated.  To  call  the  group  of  heights  on 
p.  39,  the  Grampians,  is  quite  misleading.   The  picture  of  the  **  Tay  as  it  passes 


712  NEW  GEOGRAPUICAL  PUBLICATIONS* 

Perth,**  p.  57»inust  be  about  half  a  oentnry  old ;  that  of  Edinburgh  is  equally 
unsatisfactory,  and  we  fear  many  children  will  take  the  jail  in  the  fi>regrouad 
for  tbecaatle  ;  while  in  the  picture  of  a  coal-mine  on  p*  89,  they  will  be  puMh-Hl 
to  find  the  mine. 

[Pola.]— Pokj  seiae  Yergangenheit,  Gegenwart  und  Zukunft.     Eine  Stndie.      Mit 
vier  Tafeln,  eathallemi  Ansichten  und  riaae.      Wien,  Carl  Gcrold*s  Soho,  1886  : 
8to.,  pp.  94*     Price  4s.    [Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 
An  able  historical  and  topographical  study. 

Tomaschek,  Willielni.— 2nr  Kuude  der  Himus-Halbinsei     Wien»  Carl  Gero?d's 
Sohn,  1882  and  1887 1  8vo*,  pp.  73  and  91.     Price  2$,  Bd, 

These  aro  two  bro<thures  by  Professor  TomaiMihek  at  GraK  University,  the 
first  of  which  deals  with  the  topography  and  archeolojiy  of  the  llremn!*  fx^nin- 
suK  B»d  the  second  with  rke  trade  routes  of  the  twelfth  century,  according  to 
the  data  supplied  by  EdrisL 

TJmlauft,  [Professor  Dr.]  Friedrich.— Die  Alpen.    Handbuch  der  gesammten 
Al|>enknnde.     Wieu,  Hartleben,  1887 ;  8vo.,  pp.  viii.  and  488.     Price  8s. 

Professor  Umlauft  has  in  this  volume  compiled  a  systeinatic  and  readable 
account  of  the  Alps  in  their  various  asjiect^— their  boundaries,  divisions,  struc- 
ture, geology^  to^Kigraphy;  valleys,  riven',  lakes;  results  of  erosion  and 
weathering  ;  climate ;  snow  and  glaciers ;  fauna  and  flora ;  inhabitants  ;  roads 
and  railways ;  exploration.  There  are  about  100  fair  illustratioos,  five  coloured 
maps,  and  fifteen  maps  in  the  text. 


ASIA. 

[Burma].— Report  of  the  Administration  of  Lower  Burma  during  1885-G,  and  of 
the  Admiuistration  of  Upper  Burma  during  1^86.  Kangoon,  Government 
Printing  Office,  1887  :  foUo,  pp,ii.,  71,  cxlv.,  27,  and  si.  [Presented  hy  the  India 
OflSce.] 

The  special  vahie  of  this  Peport  is  that  it  contains  a  Bomewhat  detailed 
account  of  the  geography  of  Upper  Burma, 

Central  Asia. --No.  1  (1887)*  Correspondence  respecting  the  Affairs  of  Central 
Asia.  Presented  to  both  Houses  of  Parliament  by  command  of  Her  Majesty. 
August,  1887,    LoodoD,  Harrison  &  Sons,  foUo,  pp.  11,  niapa.    Price  3^.  2d, 

CHaser,  Eduard- — Siidar-abische  Streitfragen  vom  Forschungsrcisenden  Eduani 
Glaser.    Prague,  1887  :  8vo,  pp.  47.     [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

This  is  a  controversial  |jamphlet,  its  object  being  to  meet  certain  criticisms 
by  Dr.  D,  H,  MiiUer,  mainly  on  Herr  G  laser's  linguistic  researclies  in  South 
Arabia. 

Iladiaa  Archipelago.]— Das  Leben  in  der  Tropeazone,  sijeciell  im  ludischen 
Archipelago.  Nach  Dr,  Van  der  Burg*B  *  De  geneesher  in  Xederlandtsch- Indie  * 
(1.  Band,  2.  Auflage),  mit  Genehmigung  des  Autora  bearbeitet  von  Dr.  L, 
Diemer,  Stabsarzt  in  Dresden.  Hamburg,  Friederichaen  &  Co.,  1887:  8vo., 
pp.  [6]  and  150.     [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

Dr.  Van  der  Burg,  from  whom  tljis  work  is  translated,  has  been  for  twenty- 
five  years  a  physician  at  Batavja,  and  has  made  a  special  study  of  the  Malay 
Archipelago  uith  reference  to  European  resideuce  therein,  the  results  of  hi 
investigations  being  to  a  large  extent  applicable  to  tropical  climates  gejierally. 
He  here  discusses  land  and  climatei  dwetlinga^  iohabitauts,  clothing,  Imths  and 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 


713 


cleanliness,  food  and  drink,  change  and  rest,  acclimatisation,  rules  of  life, 
medicine, 

Newall  [M^jor-GeEeralJD' J.  F*— The  Highlands  of  India,  Vol.  ii.  being 
a  Chronicle  of  Fluid  S|X)rtij  and  Travel  in  India*  London,  Harrison  &  Sons; 
Newport  and  Hyde,  Isle  of  Wight,  BrannoE  &  Co.,  1887 ;  Bvo.,  pp.  atvi.  and  i64. 
[Presented  bj  the  Autlior.] 

The  first  voluTiie  of  thia  work  was  noticed  in  the  '  Proceedings '  for  1882 
at  jjage  576.  The  jire^cnt  volume  consists  of  a  narrative  of  travel  and 
adventuro  in  India,  chieiiy  in  the  pursuit  uf  sport.  A|>art  from  mere  I^e^sonal 
incident,  however,  there  is  much  that  is  useful  concerning  the  geography  of  tho 
region  embraced.  The  volume  is  divided  into  sections  as  follows  :--Section  I. 
Cashmere.  Section  II,  The  Kohisthan  of  the  Pnnjaub,  Section  III.  The 
Kobisthan  of  the  Punjaub  (Part  2).  Section  IV.  Simla,  the  Keyonthal,  and  the* 
Basins  of  the  8ntU^j  and  Giri.  Sections  V,  and  VI.  The  Himalayan  Water- 
sbeds — tbe  Basins  of  the  Jumna  and  Ganges — Gnrhwal  and  KumaiJii.  Section 
YIL  Nejnal  and  the  BaaiuB  of  the  Kamali,  Gunduk,  and  Coai.  Section  VIII. 
Darjeeling  and  Sikhim.  Section  IX.  The  Khasja  Hilla.  Sections  X.,  XL, 
Xll.  The  Southern  Highlands.  Section  XllL  and  XIV.  Slaharashtra  and 
Central  India.  Stction  XV.  Bajaiithan,  Section  XVL  Note  on  India  Alba. 
Section  XVIL  Note  on  Gc-ylon.  Appendix.  Ethnological.  There  are  numerous 
full-|>a^e  and  text  illustrations,  diagrams,  &c. 

Oldliam,  E.  D. — On  Probable  Clmnges  in  the  Geography  of  the  Punjab  and  its 
Hivera.  An  Historico-Geographical  Study.  Calcutta,  Baptist  Mission  Press : 
8vo.,  pp.  22.     [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

This  paper  is  reprinted  from  the  Journal  of  the  Asiatic  Society  of  Bengal, 
its  object  being  to  show  that  there  have  been  great  change*  in  the  hydrography 
of  the  Punjab  and  Sind,  within  the  recent  i)eriod  of  geology ;  that  there  are 
abundant  indications  not  amouuting  to  proof,  that  these  changes  have  taken 
place  within  the  historic  period,  and  that  the  most  important  of  them,  by 
which  a  large  tract  of  once  fertile  country  has  been  converted  into  desert, 
appears  to  have  taken  place  after  several  centuries  of  the  Christian  era  had 


[SumatraO — Rapport  iiber  eine  im  Dezember  18S3  untemommeno  wiasenschaft- 
liche  Ktise  an  den  Loba-See  (Central  Sumatra),  von  Dr.  B.  Hagen.  Tijdschrift 
van  Indische  Taa!-,  Land-  en  Vulkenkunde^  deel  xxxi.,  aflevering  4, 1B86, 

This  paper,  with  the  three  large  mapa  which  accompany  it,  forms  an 
important  contribution  to  tbe  geography  of  the  part  of  Sumatra  with  which  it 
deals. 


AFEICA. 

Asi;herBOn,  P. — Die  Nordlich©  Isthmus-Wuste  Aegyptons,  *  Yerbandlungen* 
Berlin  Geographical  Society,  Baud  xiv.  No.  7,  1887. 

Becker,  Jerome. — La  Xie  en  Afrique,  nvec  Prfifaoe  de  Cte.  Goblet  D'AIviella. 
2nd  edition.  Brussels,  Lebegue  &  Co.,  1887 :  2  vols,  8vo.  j  L  pp.  xxii,  and  500, 
ii.  pp.  528.     [Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 

Lieut  Becker  has  seen  much  service  in  Africa  in  connection  with  the 
International  Association.  He  was  for  a  considemble  time  stationed  at  Karema 
on  Lake  Tanganyika.  It  is  with  his  journeys  to  aud  from  Karema  and  his 
residence  there  that  these  volumes  maiidy  detiL  Lieut.  Becker  matie  the  most 
copious  notes  of  his  observations  and  en^erienoes,  so  that  his  two  volumes 
abound  with  information,  some  of  it  of  original  value.  There  are  numerous 
appendices  in  which  the  author  dificuascs  several  problems  connected  with  the 


71i 


NEW  GEOQrwVPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 


opening  up  of  Africa,  and  mnny  illustrations,  some  of  wbicla  are  ratber 
sensational  and  imogmary.  LieuL  Beclvcr  criticises  some  of  Mr.  Joseph 
ThomsoQ*s  statements  with  reference  to  Karema  station  somewhat  severely, 

Bliclllier»  Max- — Kamerun,     Skiziieu  und  Betrachtangen.      Leipzig,  I)ttncker'& 
HumWot,  imi :  Hvo.,  pp,  13  and  260.     I'rice  5*-. 

Dr.  Buchner^s  *  Sketches  and  l^e  fleet  ions '  are  in  tended  more  efipecially  for  a 
German  i>ubUc»  liUt  ns  emanatinj^  from  a  traveller  of  repnte,  whose  knowledge 
of  Africa  is  extensive,  they  are  c3eservin|j  a  wider  audience.  The  author  deals 
with  his  subjects  under  three  heads,  viz,  (1)  Pliysical  features  of  the  colony 
and  inhahitauta ;  (2)  European  residents  and  commerce;  (3)  Suggestions  for 
developing  the  resources  of  the  colony.  Dr.  Bncbner  very  properly  exposes  the 
fallacy  of  popular  opinion  as  to  tlie  fertility  of  tropical  Africa,  but  points  out, 
at  the  same,  that  the  country  surronnding  the  Bay  of  Biafra  is  exceptionally 
fftvonred*  The  present  resources  of  the  district  are  small,  and  commerce  still 
lies  in  its  swaddling  clothes,  but  the  potentialities  arc  very  considerable.  No 
development  on  a  large  scale  appears,  however,  to  be  possible  until  the  Dtialla 
(who  at  present  aet  as  middlemen)  shall  have  been  starved  into  labour,  and  the 
inland  tribes  shall  have  gained  access  to  the  coast.  Dr.  Buchner  i«  very  out- 
spokeo  on  negro  equality,  missionaries,  nrio,  aorl  slavery.  Tropical  hygiene 
naturally  occupies  a  prominent  place  in  a  book  written  by  a  medical  man. 

EcidnZf  [Dr  J  Hans. — Durch  Stid-west  'Africa.  '  Yerhandlungen '  Berlin  Geo- 
graphical Society,  Band  xiv.  No.  7,  18B7. 

Dr.  Schinz,  on  whose  travels  in  South  Africa  there  have  been  recent  notes  in 
the  *  Proceedings,*  here  describes  the  journeys  ho  made  in  the  interior  from  the 
German  Protectorate ;  he  gives  valuable  notes  of  his  observations  on  country 
and  people. 

Schmidt  (A.)--^Meine  Eeise  in  Usaramound  den  Deutachen  Schutzgebieten  Central- 
Ostafrikas,    Berliti,  Eugelhardt,  1886 ;  8vo,  pp.  36.    Price  Is, 

This  is  an  unpretending  narrative  of  the  leader  of  one  of  the  expeditions 
despatche<l  by  the  German  East  African  Company,  Lieut.  A.  Schiuidt  left  Baga- 
moyo  on  August  29th,  1885,  followed  the  Rulu  as  far  as  Muhonyera,  made  thenoe 
an  excursion  to  the  Rufijijand  finally  proceeded  to  Sima  in  Ueagara,  at  that  time 
occupied  by  the  late  Dr.  Juhlke.  On  his  return  journey  he  was  attacked  by 
robbers  near  Kidete,  and  seriously  wounded*  He  sucoeeded,  however,  in  reaching 
Saadani,  having  been  tended  during  part  of  his  journey  by  Samaritans  in  the 
shaiie  of  British  missionaries,  Lieut.  Schmidt  mmle  treaties  with  twenty-five 
"Sultans"  in  U/vSramo  and  Ukamh  His  route  led  partly  through  tetTitury  not 
previously  explored,  and  a  map  would  therefore  have  proved  very  acceptable,  for 
that  by  Dr-  T,  Engelhardt  to  which  he  refers  is  quite  inadequate. 

SolaillBt,  Paul. — Voyage  &  Segou  1878-79.  Redig4  d'apr^  lea  notes  et  journanx 
de  voyage  de  Soleillet  par  Gabriei  Gravier.  Paris,  Challnmel  Ain^  1887:  8va, 
pp.  ivii.  and  515.     [Presented  by  the  PublisheT.] 

The  journey  described  in  the  volume  is  somewhat  old,  and  the  ground 
traveriied  has  been  made  familiar  by  other  French  explorers.  M.  Gravier  tells 
the  story  of  M.  Soleillet's  journey  in  too  minute  detail,  as  if  he  had  copied 
every  trivial  incident  recorded  in  the  traveller's  diary.  Nevertheless  the 
Tolume  contains  much  solid  information*  especially  concerning  S^gou  and  the 
Niger,  where  M,  Soleillet  spent  a  cunsiderablc  time.  From  Daker  he  went 
north  to  St.  Louis,  and  starting  thence  followed  the  Senegal  to  Medina,  when 
he  stmck  eastward  by  Bagu^  and  Lambalako  to  S^gou.  On  returning  he 
varied  the  route  by  striking  north-west  from  L:imbalak6  and  by  Nioro  and  the 
Kaaiarem^  country  down  to  the  Senegal.  M.  Soleillet  states  in  an  interesting; 
preiace  that  his  great  object  in  his  travels  has  been  to  extend  the  influence  of 
France,  which  ought  to  reach  from^  the  Atlantic  to  the  meridian  of  Tripoli  and 


I 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUGATIGNS.  715 

from  tho  Mediterranean  to  the  Gulf  of  Guinea.  He  suggests  various  ways  by 
vhich  France  might  make  easy  trade-routes  to  the  Niger,  and  maintains  that 
until  merchandise  can  be  conveyed  cheaply  into  the  interior,  slavery  will  not 
be  abolished.    There  is  a  simple  route-map  appended  to  the  volume. 

Oppel,  [Dr.]  A.— Die  religiOsen  Verhaltnisse  von  Africa.  *  Zeitschrift '  Berlin  Geo- 
graphical Society,  Band  xxii.  Heft  3  and  4,  1887. 

A  useful  collection  of  data  on  religious  distribution  in  Africa.  Of  the 
various  imported  religions  it  is  seen  frum  Dr.  OppelV  map  that  Mahomme- 
danism  occupies  one-half  of  the  contiuent.  Up  till  the  1 1th  century  it  occupied 
only  a  fringe  of  the  north  coast.  Between  the  11th  and  17th  centuries  it 
spread  south  to  about  10°  N.,  and  during  the  19th  century  it  has  extended  far 
sout)i wards,  especially  in  the  west.  The  map  shows  also  the  distribution  of 
the  various  Christian  mission  stations. 

Weiss,  Kurt. — Meine  Keise  nach  dem  Eilima-Ndjarogebiet  im  Auftrago  der 
Deutsch-Ostafrikanischen  Gesellschaft.  Berlin,  F.  Luckhardt,  1886:  8vo, 
l>p.  46,  map.    Price  1«.  6d. 

Jiihlke,  Karl.— Die  Erwerbung  des  Kilima-Nscharo-Gebiets.  Koln,  Du  Mont- 
ISchauburg,  1886 :  8vo,  pp.  33.    Price  1«. 

These  small  books  deal  with  an  expedition  to  Kilimanjaro,  which  the 
late  Dr.  JUblke  and  Lieut.  Weiss  undertook  on  behalf  of  the  German  East 
African  Company  for  the  purpose  of  making  territorial  acquisitions.  They 
left  Pangani  on  May  10th,  1885,  travelled  up  the  Rufu  valley,  visited  Vuga, 
Masinde,  and  Taveta,  arrived  at  Mandara's  village  in  Moshi  on  June  15th,  and 
returned  to  the  coast  with  '*  treaties,**  signed  by  ten  independent  chiefe,  in  their 
pockets.  Lieut.  Weiss  says  of  Chagga  &at  it  may  boldly  be  described  as  the 
**  Paradise  of  Eastern  Africa,"  and  that  it  promises  to  reward  the  labour  of 
German  colonists  a  hundredfold.  He  supplies  a  good  map  on  a  scale  of 
1 :  400,000,  with  altitudes  based  upon  boiling-point  observations.  Dr.  JUhlke 
enters  more  largely  into  personal  and  political  matters  than  his  companion. 

Zululand. — Further  Correspondence  respecting  the  Affairs  of  Zululand  and  Ad- 
jacent Territories.  (In  continuation  of  [C.  —  4980],  of  February  1887.) 
Presented  to  both  Houses  of  Parliament  by  Command  of  Her  Majesty,  1887. 
London,  Eyre  &  Spottiswoode,  1887 :  folio,  pp.  vii.  and  66,  maps.    Price  2«. 

AMERICA. 

[Andes.] — Estndio  Orografico  en  la  Cordillera  de  Mendoza  y  Neuquen,  por  el 
Ingeniero  de  Minas  Sr.  German  Ave  Lallemant.  Bolctin  del  Instituto  Greogr&fioo 
Argentine,  tomo  viii.  cuademo  viii.,  1887. 

Bell,  Charles  H. — The  Selkirk  Settlement  and  the  Settlers.  A  concise  history  of 
the  Red  River  country  from  its  discovery,  including  information  extracted  from 
original  documents  lately  discovered  and  notes  obtained  from  Selkirk  Settlement 
Colonists.  Winnipeg,  Office  of  '  The  Commercial,'  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  44,  illustra- 
tions.   [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

Brinton,  Daniel  0.*— A  Review  of  the  Data  for  the  study  of  the  Prehistoric 
Chronology  of  America.  Address  by  Daniel  G.  Brinton,  m.d  ,  Professor  of 
American  Archaeology  and  Linguistics  in  the  University  of  Pennsylvania^  Vice- 
President,  Section  H,  before  the  Section  of  Anthropology,  American  AssociatioQ 
for  the  Advancement  of  Science,  at  the  New  York  Meeting,  August  10th,  1887. 
From  the  Proceedings  of  the  American  Association  for  the  Advancement  of 
Science,  vol.  xxxvi.  Salem,  Mass.,  Salem  Press,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  21.  [Presented 
by  the  Author.] 


716 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUCATJOKS. 


[Britiflh  Collimbia.]— Dominion  of  Canada,  Province  of  British  CoMmbia.  In- 
formation for  Intending  Settlers.  PLiblisbcd  by  the  Government  of  CaxiaxJa. 
Ottawa,  Department  of  A^culture,  188ti ;  8vo,,  pp.  32,  2  maps, 

Illustrated,    [The  West  Shore ;  an  Illustrated  Western  Magazine.    June 

1887 J    Portland,  Oregoaj  L.  Samnul:  8va 

Bra  WE,  Marie  A.^The  Icelandic  Distxjverers  of  America ;  or,  Honour  to  whota 
Honour  is  due.  London,  Mane  A.  Brown,  1887:  «m«  8vo.,  pp.  vL  and  213, 
illustrations.     Price  7s.  6^.     [Presentai  by  the  Authoress.] 

In  this  volume  the  authoress  endeavours  to  prove  what  nobody  denies, 
that  America  was  first  discovered  hy  the  Norsemen,  as  far  back  as  982-86,  and 
totally  denounces  the  fact  of  its  having  been  first  effectively  discovered  by 
Colutjibus.  The  following  is  a  list  of  the  contents,  which  will  give  an  idea  of 
the  scope  of  the  work  i^Chapter  L  The  Immediate  Necessity  of  Establishing 
the  Truth.  II.  The  Manifest  Duty  of  the  United  States  in  this  Question. 
111.  The  Evidence  that  the  Icelanders  discovered  America  in  the  Tenth  Cen- 
tury. IV,  Roman  Catholic  Cognisance  of  the  Fact  at  the  Time  of  ihe  Ice- 
landic Discovery.  V.  All  the  Motives  for  tbe  Concealment  and  Fraud. 
VI.  ColumbuH*  Visit  to  Iceland.  VII.  The  Scandinavian  North  and  Spain 
Contrasted.  VIII.  The  Norse  Discoverers  and  Columbus  Contrasted.  IX*  The 
Beneficial  Pesults  to  the  Preuent  Age  and  Posterity  of  Attributing  this 
Momentous  Discovery  to  the  True  Ftrsous.  X,  The  Celebration  of  it  m  1985  ! 
XI,  The  liighted  Position  of  the  Scandinavitm  North  ^fter  this  Justice  Las 
I>een  accorded  to  it.  Bihliograidiy  of  the  important  books  confirming  the  Ice- 
landic Discovery  of  America^  from  the  years  1076-1883. 

Condreau,  Hem  A.— La  France  fiqninoxiale.  Two  vols.  Svo.  and  Atlas, 
1886-7*  I.  Etudes  sur  les  Gnyanes  et  FAmazonie,  pp.  xvi.  and  -130.  II. 
Voyage  k  travers  les  Guyanes  et  rAmazonie,  p|).  xxxvi.  and  495.  Paris, 
Challamel  Ain^.     Price  16«.     [Presented  by  tbe  Publisher.] 

M,  Coudrean  is  at  least  a  lively  writer,  abounding  with  enthusiasm  and 
animal  spirits.  He  obtained  from  the  French  Government  a  Diission  to 
Guiana  for  the  purpose  of  exploration  and  of  investigation  of  its  economical 
resonrcca,  and  these  volumes  are  the  result  of  his  labours  extending  over  the 
years  1881-5.  The  first  volume  is  to  a  large  extent  a  treatise  on  the  resources 
of  French  Guiana  proper  and  of  all  that  extent  of  country  lying  east  and  south 
of  all  the  Gujanaa  which  Franco  claims  from  Brazil  as  her'a.  t^ne  chapter  is 
devoted  to  a  history  of  the  coloniwition  of  Guiana.  Chapter  ih  tit^ts  in  great 
detail  of  the  resources  of  French  Guiana,  vegetable  and  mineral.  The  College 
of  Cayenne  forma  the  subject  of  chapter  iii.,  and  the  territtjry  contested 
between  France  and  Brazil  of  chapter  iv.  Other  chapters  in  this  volume  deal 
with  Pari;  Eurot>ean  emigration  to  the  provinces  of  Guiana;  Amazonia;  and 
the  abortive  republic  of  Counani,  of  which  M,  Coudrcau  seems  to  be  an 
enthusiastic  partisan.  The  second  volume  contains  an  extremely  lively 
narrativc  of  M.  Coudreau's  extensive  wanderings  in  Gniaoaand  the  Amazonian 
region.  In  an  introductory  chapter  he  describes  an  excnrsion  which  he  made 
to  Counani,  and  the  succeeding  three  chapters  an  exploration  of  the  lake 
region  south  of  Counani  and  of  part  of  the  river  Araguary.  An  excursion  up 
the  Amazon,  tbe  liio  Negro,  and  the  Branco  and  into  tlie  neighbouring 
regions,  forms  the  i^nbject  of  succeeding  chfipters,  in  which  the  author  telb«  us 
much  concerning  ihe  forests  he  traversed  and  tbe  Indians  he  met  with.  One 
chapter  deals  with  the  economical  and  social  condition  of  the  Rio  Bianco. 
M,  Coudreau*s  work  is  certainly  full  of  interest,  and  affords  a  fair  idea  of  the 
character  of  the  in  leri. sting  regions  traversed  hy  him.  The  atlas  of  eight 
large  maps  is  an  imix^rtant  addition  to  the  work. 

OileB,  Pearoe.— The  True  Source  of  the  Mississippi.  [Buffalo,  N.Y.,  1887]  ;  8vo., 
pp.  53,  maps  and  front bpieoe. 

In  this  little  pamphlet  we  have  copies  of  letter?,  and  extracts  from  yarious 


.  KEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  POBUCATIONS.  717 

newspapers  in  support  of  Captain  Glazier's  claim  to  having  discovered  the  true 
source  of  the  Mississippi. 

Glazier,  [Capt]  Willard. — Down  the  Great  River ;  embracing  an  account  of  the 
discovery  of  the  Tme  Source  of  the  Mississippi,  together  with  views,  descriptive 
and  pictorial,  of  the  Cities,  Towns,  Villages  and  Scenery  on  the  banks  of  the  river, 
as  seen  during  a  canoe  voyage  of  over  three  thousand  miles  from  its  head  waters 
to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Philadelphia,  Hubbard  Bros.,  1887  :  sm.  8vo.,  pp.  445. 
[Presented  by  the  Author.] 

Captain  Glazier  here  presents  us  with  a  full  accoimt  of  his  expedition  in 
1881,  lor  the  discovery  of  the  true  source  of  the  Mississippi  river.  This  he  lays 
claim  to  having  discovered,  and  maintains  that  a  small  lake  (Glazier)  situ- 
ated to  the  south  of  Lake  Itasca  is  the  true  source.  The  greater  portion  of  the 
volume  is  devoted  to  a  description  of  the  second  part  of  the  journey — the  de- 
scent of  the  river  in  canoes  from  the  newly-discovered  source  to  the  sea,  a  dis- 
tance of  3184  miles.  The  volume  contains  many  illustrations,  besides  two 
maps,  and  a  portrait  of  the  Author. 

[OnianaJ— Latest  Correspondence  on  the  Question  of  Limits  of  Guiana.  Caracas, 
1887 :  folio,  pp.  66,  map. 

EHudson's  Bay  Expedition.]— Heport  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Expedition  of  1886, 
under  the  command  of  Lieut.  A.  R.  Gordon,  b.n.    8vo.,  pp.  133. 

This  is  a  report  of  the  third  expedition  sent  by  the  Canadian  Government 
to  investigate  the  navigability  of  Hudson's  Straits,  for  purposes  of  commerce. 
It  contains,  as  usual,  a  deal  of  useful  information  on  the  region  embraced, 
divided  under  the  following  heads: — Narrative,  Ice  Observations,  Notes  by 
Observers,  Resources  of  the  Hudson's  bay  Region,  Meteorological  Observations, 
Report  by  Mr.  F.  P.  Payne  on  the  Flora  and  Fauna  of  Stupart's  Bay,  Report 
by  Dr.  R.  Bell  on  Economic  Minerals,  &c.,  concluding  remarks  on  the  Naviga- 
tion of  the  Straits.  With  reference  to  the  latter  subject — the  navigation  of 
Hudson's  Straits — Lieut  Gordon  considers  that  the  season  during  which  naviga- 
tion may,  in  ordinary  years,  be  regarded  as  practicable  for  tne  purposes  of 
commerce,  will,  on  the  average,  fall  between  1st  and  10th  July,  and  the  closing 
of  the  season  would  be  about  the  first  week  in  October.  The  report  contains 
two  illustrations,  three  charts,  and  one  plan. 

Im  Thum,  Everard  F. — Visit  of  the  Governor  to  the  Pomeroon  District  (July 
1887).  (Reprinted  from  the  *  Argosy.')  Demerara,  1887 :  4to.,  pp.  8.  [Presented 
by  Everard  F.  im  Thurn,  Esq.] 

[Patagonia.]— Exploracion  al  interior  de  la  Patagonia  y  costas  del  Pacifioo,  por  el 
Tenitnte  de  fregata  Sr.  Augustin  del  Castillo.  Boletin  del  Instituto  Geogr&fico 
Argentine,  tomo  viii.  cuademo  ix.,  1887. 

Sinclair,  A.  C,  and  Fyfe,  Laurence  B.*-Tbe  Handbook  of  Jamaica  for  1887-8  : 
comprising  Historical,  Statistical,  and  General  Information  concerning  the  Island. 
London,  Stanford,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  xii.  and  680,  map.  [Presented  by  Sir  Henry 
Norman.] 

Tanner,  [Prof.]  Henry.— British  Columbia;  its  Agricultural  and  Commercial 
Capabilities,  and  the  Advantages  it  offers  for  Emigration  purposes.  London, 
George  Kenning,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  46,  illustrations. 

Wilde,  [Dr.]  Eduardc— Senado  Argentino.  Arrendamiento  de  las  Obras  de 
Salubridad  de  la  Capital.  Discurso  pronunciado  por  el  Dr.  Eduardo  Wilde, 
Ministro  del  Interior,  en  sesiones  del  6,  7  y  8  de  Julio  1887.  Buenos  Aires,  Imp. 
de  La  Tribuna  Nacional,  1887 :  12mo.,  pp.  290. 


718 


NEW  GEOGEAPHICAL  PTOLICATIONS. 


AXJSTKALASIA* 

[Australasia.] — ^TmnHactions  and  Procwdioga  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  of 
Australaaia  (Victoria  Branch).  Yuls,  iii,  and  iv,,  January  1885  to  December 
1B8C.    MLll>oume,  1887. 

Tbis  volume  contains  ruporta  of  pn>eeediDgs  oo  the  return  of  Captain  Everett'ts 
New  GuiQcji  Exjjeditiun.  Tha  most  hnportjmt  paperH  iire,  **  Explorations  on 
the  West  Coafit  of  Tasmania,"  by  C,  P.  Sprcnt,  with  map  ;  **  A  Few  Days 
Ashore  in  W.  Kimberley  "  by  J.  A.  raxtoti*  who  also  contributes  a  paper  on 
the  probable  ri\^er-syfitem  of  X,W.  Anatralia,  The  Hon.  John  Forrest  con- 
tributoB  a  paper  on  the  Kimberley  ilistrictj  while  there  are  several  papers  on  tbt* 
subject  of  Autarctic  cxplomtiun. 

[AustraliaJ — HesuUs  of  Mete«irological  Observations  made  in  Kew  South  Wales 
during  1885,  under  the  direction  of  H,  C,  Hussfll,  F.n.s.,  Government  AstroDomer 
of  New  South  Wales.     Sydney,  Charles  Potter,  1887  :  8vo.,  pp.  167  &  191, 

Besulta  of  Rftin  and  Kiver  ObBervations  made  in  New  South  Walea  and  Part  of 
Qnocnflland  during  188G.     By  H.  C.  Russell.     8vo.,  pp.  87. 

Notes  upon  Floods  and  Lake  Gtorge,  By  H.  C.  RusselL  Sy*3ney,  1887  :  8vo., 
pp.  30. 

Notes  upon  the  History  of  Floods  in  the  Kiver  Djirliug.  By  H.  C.  lUisselL  Sydney, 
1887;  8vo.,  pp.  5o/ 

In  these  various  piibUcatiana  brought  out  under  Mr,  Rusaeirs  superin- 
tendeuco  will  be  found  much  that  will  contributes  to  a  knowledge  of  the 
hydrography  and  physical  ge<:igmpby  of  South-east  Australia.  As  5Ir.  KuBsell 
remarks,  "The  history  of  flixKlis  in  our  rivers  and  lakes,  if  it  oould  be  accurately 
writteu,  would  form  one  of  the  most  important  chapters  in  the  history  of  our 
climate,  and  probably  throw  much  light  upon  the  kwa  which  control  the 
changes  in  seiisoos  that  have  such  |irominent  effects  upon  a  country  like  this, 
almo0t  wholly  devoted  to  pastoral  pursuits."  Mr.  Russell  is  going  the  right 
way  about  to  accumulate  the  material  for  such  a  history  so  far  as  New  South 
Wales  is  concerned.  His  Bystem  of  observations  for  ascertaining  the  amount  of 
evaporation  in  Lake  George  and  at  other  stations,  and  the  quantity  of  rain 
which  finds  ha  way  into  the  rivers,  and  the  character  and  ]>eculiarity  of  floo^is 
in  these  rivers,  will  all  lead  to  valuable  re.sults^  not  only  for  science  but  for  the 
economic  development  of  the  colony.  Lake  George,  he  tells  us,  is  a  lake  which 
varies  much  in  size  because  it  is  so  shallow,  being  never  more  than  25  feet  deep 
in  the  deet>e8t  part ;  it  may  bo  taken  as  16  miles  long  and  5  wide,  or,  roughly, 
80  square  miles  of  surface.  It  is  2200  feet  above  the  sea,  and  surrounded  by 
high  land.  On  this  lake  %*ery  careful  evaporation  experiments  are  being  made. 
During  the  years  1874  to  1885  the  level  of  the  water  in  tlie  lake  fell  12  feet, 
or  at  the  rate  of  13  inches  per  annum;  and  during  the  same  jieriod  the 
average  rain  (a  It  there  was  30*8  inches.  Hence  the  lake  lost,  per  annum,  by 
evajjoration  durtrvg  these  years  43*8  inches — a  result  confirmed  by  actual 
measures  during  188G.  Statistics  of  evajxiration  observations  from  other  parts 
of  the  Colony  are  given^  the  result  being  that  evaporation  depends  very  mach 
on  the  state  of  rhe  soil.  If  it  is  wet  on  the  surface  the  evaporation  goes  on 
from  it  much  faster  than  from  water ;  but  as  the  ground  dries  the  condition  ia 
reversed  and  tlie  earth  evaporates  less  than  the  water.  In  the  t)fti>er  on  Lake 
George  is  a  large  map  of  the  Iske,  and  in  that  on  the  Kiver  Darling  a  large 
table  showing  graphically  the  floods  in  the  river  from  1831  to  1886.  | 

Smith,  S.  Percy .^ — The  Eniption  of  Tarawera;  A  report  to  the  Surveyor-Geneml. 
WeEiDgton,  N.Z.,  1886  :  8vo.,  pp.  81.     [Presented  by  S.  Percy  Smith.  Esq.] 

This  is  a  report  of  great  value  of  a  survey  of  the  district  affected  by  the 
recent  volcanic  eruption  iu  New  Zealand,  by  Mr.  Percy  Smith  and  bis  assistants* 
It  abounds  with  information  of  the  most  varied  kind  and  of  high  importance, 
geographical,  geological^  and  cthoologicaL   There  are  about  as  many  illmtratioua 


I 


1 


NEW  6K0GRAPHICAL  PUBUOATIONa  719 

and  maps,  well  executed,  as  there  are  pages  of  letterpress.  It  deserves  the 
careful  study  both  of  the  geographer  and  the  geologist.  It  appears  to  Mr. 
Smith  that  all  the  eyidence  we  have  tends  to  prove  the  existence  ot  a  reservoir  of 
molten  matter  within  that  part  of  the  great  fissure  which  underlies  the  moun- 
tains of  Tarawera  and  Ruawahia.  The  Tarawera  eruption,  he  thinks,  appears  to 
offer  an  example  of  the  first  stage  in  the  formation  of  a  volcanic  mountain.  It  is, 
in  fact,  an  incomplete  effort  to  form  a  volcano.  As  far  as  can  be  judged  from  the 
])rescnt  state  of  af&urs,  the  activity  is  fast  dying  out. 

Fayenc,  Ernest — Western  Australia:  its  Fast  History;  its  Present  Trade  and 
Kesources;  its  Future  Position  in  the  Australian  Group.  Sydney,  Turner  & 
Henderson,  1887  :  4to.,  pp.  84,  map.     [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

[New  Zealand.]— Transactions  and  Proceedings  of  the  New  Zealand  Institute,  1886. 
Vol.  xix.  (second  of  New  Series.)  Edited  and  published  under  the  authority  of 
the  Board  of  Governors  of  the  Institute,  by  James  Hector,  c.H.o.,  m.d.,  f.b.8.j 
Director.  Issued  May,  1887.  Wellington,  Lyon  &  Blair ;  London,  Trtibner  &  Co. : 
8vo.,  pp.  xix.  and  656,  plates  and  map.    [Presented  by  Dr.  James  Hector.] 

Among  the  papers  of  geographical  interest  may  be  mentioned  the  following— 
'  Description  of  the  Little  Barrier,  or  Hauturu  Island,  the  Birds  which  inhabit 
it,  and  the  Locality  as  a  Protection  to  them,'  by  A.  Heischek,  f.l.8.  ;  '  Nar- 
rative of  an  Ascent  of  Ruapehu,'  by  James  Park,  Geological  Survey^  Depart- 
ment ;  and  *  Economic  Antarctic  Exploration,'  by  C.  Traill. 

OCEANIA. 

Cottean,  E. — Les  Nouvelles-H^brides.  8vo.,  map,  pp.  8.  [Presented  by  the 
Author.] 

This  is  a  copy  of  a  paper  read  before  the  French  Association  for  the  Ad- 
vancement of  Science  at  the  Nancy  meeting,  1886. 

GENERAL. 
Abercromby,  Hon.  Ealph. — ^Weather :  a  Popular  Exposition  of  the  Nature  of 

Weather  Changes  from  Day  to  Day.    London,  Eegan  Paul  &  Co.,  1887 :  8vo. 

l)p.  xix.  and  463.    Price  6«.    [Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 

Mr.  Abercromby  is  one  of  the  most  scientific  of  our  meteorologists,  and  his 
researches  on  the  forms  of  clouds  and  on  aerial  currents  are  recognised  as  of 
great  original  value.  The  results  of  hih  researches  are  embodied  in  the  new 
volume  of  the  International  Scientific  Series.  The  first  part  of  the  work  is 
elementary,  and  deals  with  such  subjects  as  synoptic  charts,  weather  prognostics, 
clouds,  and  cloud  prognostics.  In  the  second  or  advanced  section  Mr.  Abercromby 
treats  of  isobars ;  barographs,  thermograms,  and  meteographs ;  wind  and  calm ; 
heat  and  cold ;  squalls,  thunderstorms,  and  non-isobaric  rain ;  pampas  whirl- 
winds and  tornadoes ;  local,  diurnal,  annual,  and  secular  variations  of  weather ; 
types  and  spells  of  weather ;  forecasts  for  solitary  observers ;  forecasting  by 
synoptic  charts.  Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  while  Mr.  Abercromby's  book  is  no 
systematic  treatise  on  meteorology,  it  contains  much  that  is  of  great  practical 
value,  and  which  will  not  be  found  in  the  regular  treatises.  There  are  about 
100  illustrations. 

Annuaire  du  Club  Alpin  Fran9ais.  Treizi^me  Ann^,  1886.  Paris,  Hachette  &  Cie. 
1887  :  8vo.,  pp.  vli.  and  762,  illustrations. 

Among  the  papers  of  geographical  interest  are — 'L'Islande  h  vol  d'oiseau 
(La  capitale ;  les  solfatares  de  Erisuvik ;  Tlslande  alpestre ;  les  geysers ;  les 
<j;lacier8 ;  deserts  de  lave  ;  Akreyri ;  Thingvellir),'  by  Dr.  Labonne ;  'Ascensions 
an  Sinai  (Le  Serbal;  le  Djebel  Moufa;  le  Raz  Safsafeh),'  by  Charles  G^; 
<  iltiide  sur  les  chatnes  et  massifs  du  syst^me  des  Alpes  (suite  et  fin),'  by 
E.  Levasseur ;  and  *  Relev&  hypsom^triques  r^ultant  d'observations  faites  au 
baromdtre  par  des  membres  du  Club  Alpin  Fran9ai8,  et  calculi  par  le  com- 
mandant du  gdnie  Prudent.' 


730 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUCATIOKS. 


[The  *  ClialleJag^er  ^  Voyage.] — Keportontlie  Scientific  ResulU  of  the  Voyage  of 
H.M.S,  Challenger  during  {the  years  1873-76,  under  the  command  of  Captam 
George  S,  Nnrea,  b.n.,  r,R.fl.,  and  the  late  Captain  Frank  Toarle  Thomson, 
B.K.  Prepared  under  the  BiiiJerintendence  of  the  late  Sir  C.  Wyville  Thomson^ 
Knt.,  F,B.8.,  &c.,  and  now  of  Jobn  Murray,  one  of  the  Naturalists  of  the  Expe- 
ditioiL  Zoology — Yok  xx.,  xxi  (text  and  plates)  and  xxti,  London, 
Eyre  &  Spottiswoode,  1687:  4to.,  pp.  (vol  xx.),  viiL,  Ixviii.,  275,  16,  and 
47  J  (vol.  xxi*)  513 ;  (voU  xxil.)  viii.,  Ixv.,  and  335  ;  charts  and  plates.  Price 
(vol,  XX.)  40*.  ;  (vol  xxl,  text  and  plates),  708.  ;  (vol  xxil)  50s,  [Presented 
hy  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  Her  Majesty *s  Treasury.] 

Corvo,  Joio  De  Alldrade*^-*Estiidos  sohre  as  Provincias  UUramarinas.  Lisbon, 
1883-5:  3  vok.  8vo.,  i»  pp,  305;  ii.  pp.  469;  iil  pp.  404.  [Presented  hy  the 
Author.] 

This  work  is  ^velcome  as  containing  a  vast  amount  of  in  format  ion  on  the 
histoiy  and  the  social  and  economical  condition  of  the  Portuguese  Colonies. 

Cust,  Bobert  Needham  [LL.D.l — Liuguistic  and  Orientfll  Essays,  written  from 
the  year  1847  to  1887.  Second  series.  London,  Triihner,  1887  :  8vo.,  pp.  xiv. 
and  548.     Price  2 Is,     [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

This  volume  contains  twenty-one  esiiays,  many  of  them  of  geographical 
and  ethnological  interest.  Nine  of  them  refer  more  or  Ivm  to  India  on  the 
linguistic  and  political  side  ;  two  to  Russia,  comprising  the  serf  question,  the 
Oxus  province,  and  the  Caspian;  three  to  the  empire  of  Turkey,  including 
Egypt;  one  to  the  French  empire  in  North  Africa;  two  to  the  languages  of 
Africa  and  Oceania;  two  to  the  International  Orierjtnl  Congress;  one  to  the 
four  great  European  cities  of  antiquity  j  and  one  to  the  gec^raphy  of  the 
ancients.     The  voluoie  contains  six  maps. 

Dry^Ukij  [DrJ  Erich  von- — Die  Gcoiddeforjnationen  der  Ei&zeit.  Berlin, 
Pormetter,  1887  :  8vo.,  pp.  116. 

This  is  a  long  and  elaborate  paper  discussing  the  influence  of  the  ^ilaoial 
epoch  in  motlifyiog  the  shape  of  the  earth's  surface.  It  apf)ears  also  as  a  papr 
in  the  *  Zeitschrift '  of  the  iierlin  Geographical  Society,  Band  xxii.  Heft  3  and  4. 

Eckhardti  H^  —  MatlhsEUs  Merian.  Skizze  seines  Lebens  und  ausflihrliche 
Beschreibung  seiner  Topographia  Germanifle,  nebst  Verzeicbuiss  der  dann  enthal- 
tenen  Knpferstiche.  Basel,  H,  Geag,  1887 ;  8vo.,  pp.  222,  [Presented  by  the 
publisher.] 

This  is  an  exccmlingly  interesting  sketch  of  a  German  publisher,  carto- 
grapher,  and  engraver  of  the  seventeenth  century,  whose  maps  and  atlases  did 
much  to  advance  both  geography  and  cartography, 

[Educational.]— Lon^^nan's  Shilling  Geography,  with  45  maps  and  9  diagramR. 
London,  Longmans,  1887  ;  8vo.,  pp*  160» 

This  book  cannot  be  commeuded ;  it  is  written  on  the  old  bad  lines,  and 
abounds  in  such  misstatements  and  puerilities  as  these: — "A  volcano  is  a 
mountain  from  which  ismoke,  flames,  ashes,  and  lava  are  thrown  ** ;  "A  roadstead 
is  a  part  of  the  sea  near  tlie  shore,  and  shut  in  hy  sandbanks.**  In  the  attempt 
to  distinguish  between  a  town,  a  city,  a  village,  and  a  hamlet,  the  writer  gets 
into  a  hopelesa  mess.  A  hamlet,  we  are  told,  is  "a  small  village  where  few 
j>eople  live.''  The  first  three  |mges  are  occupied  with  fifty  numbereti  defSnitiona 
after  this  manner ;  the  rest  of  the  book  consists  of  scarcely  anything  more 
than  crowds  of  names. 

Lockyer,  J.  Nannan- — Outlinea  of  Physiography.  The  Movements  of  the  Earth. 
Loudon,  Macmillan  &  Co.»  1887:  Bvo.,  pp.  xvi.  and  130.  Price  If.  M,  [Pre- 
sented by  the  Publisher.] 

Mr,  Lockyer  states  that  what  he  has  set  himself  to  do  in  this  httle  work  and 


N£W  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 


721 


in  others  which  he  mienda  to  follow  it,  is  to  bring  together  those  facts  and  lines 
of  thought  which  will  enable  us  to  take  a  survey  of  nature  with  strict  relation 
to  the  earth's  place  in  it,  esi)ecially  from  the  jwiat  of  view  of  physioil  astronomy. 
The  present  instalment  is  what  would  be  generally  regarded  as  mainly  astro- 
nomical ;  in  successive  chapt<?ra  it  deaU  with  tlie  MeaBurement  of  Angular 
Surface^  the  Measurement  of  Time,  Observing  Conditions,  the  Rotation  of  the 
Earth,  the  Earth's  Revolution,  Conditions  of  Kevolution,  and  Rfsults  of  Rotation 
and  Revolution.     The  volume  is  illustrated  witb  numerous  diagrams. 

Mohn,  H*^Grundzuge  der  Meteorologie.  Die  Lehre  von  Wind  nnd  Wetter  nach 
den  neuesten  Forschungen  geraeinfasaltch  dargestellt  von  H.  Mohn.  Deut*jche 
Origin al-Ausgabe.  Yierte  verbesserte  Auflage,  Berlin,  D,  Reimer,  1887 :  8vo., 
pp.  X.  and  364,  23  maps  and  36  woodcuts.     Price  6j. 

Hosny,  Leon  de. — Les  Heligions  de  rExtrSnie  Orient.  Legon  d'ouverture  faite  a 
rfici>le  pratique  des  Hautes-fitudes.  Paris,  Maisonneuve  Frfires  &  Ch.  Leclerc, 
1886  :  8vo.,  pp.  36. 

Stmve*  H. — Laudharten^  ihre  Herstellung  und  ihro  Fehlergrenzen.  Berlin, 
Springer,  1887  ;  8vo,,  pp.  viii.  and  7£*,     Price  2s,  Gd, 

A  solid  scientific  treatise  on  map-coDstruction,  and  on  the  limits  of  error 
in  cartography. 

[Tlie  Colonie&J — ^The  Colonial  Book  Circular  and  Bibliographical  Record.  Compiled 
and  published  by  E.  C,  Petherick,  at  the  Colonial  Booksellers'  Agency,  London. 
No.  1,  vol.  I.     September  1887, 

This  new  jourual  h  likely  to  be  useful  to  all  interested  in  the  Colonies. 
The  iirei  ]mrt  contains  a  select  list  of  recent  publications  in  all  departments^ 
which  no  doubt  many  ooloniHts  will  be  glad  to  have.  Then  follows  a  classified 
list  of  recent  Colonial  publications  and  books  relating  to  the  Colonies. 

TaxaldOf  0- — L'Origino  di  Cristoforo  Colombo,  *  Bollettino '  Italian  Geographical 
Society,  September  1887. 

Si^or  Varaldo  examines  anew  the  evidence  in  reference  to  the  birthplace 
of  Columbus  in  connection  with  recent  controversies  on  the  gubjcct,  and 
concludes  decidedly  in  favour  of  Genoa. 

Teats,  Jolm. — Technical,  Industrial,  and  Trade  Education^  4  vols.  8vo.  I.  The 
Natural  History  of  the  Raw  Material  of  Commerce;  pp.  xx.  and  504.  11  The 
Technical  History  of  Commerce,  or  the  Progress  of  the  Useful  Arts ;  pp.  xxviii. 
and  527.  III.  The  Growth  and  Vicisaitudes  of  Commerce  in  all  Agea,  an 
Historical  Narrative  of  the  Industry  and  Intercourse  of  Civilitsed  Nations ;  pp.  xlvL 
and  619.  IV,  Becent  and  Existing  Commerce,  with  statistical  supplement,  maps 
showing  trade-areaSj  and  tabulated  list  of  places  important  in  business  or  trade ; 
pp.  xviii.  and  516.  London,  Philip  &  Son,  18ii7.  Price  246.  [Presented  by 
the  Publisher,] 

This  ia  a  formidable  and  elaborate  work,  a  mine  of  information,  much  of 
which  will  be  found  exceedingly  useful  by  the  student  of  what  is  known  as 
commercial  geography,  though  much  of  course  does  not  come  within  the  geo- 
graphical field.  Dr.  Yeata  has  been  long  known  as  one  of  the  foremost  writers 
on  commercial  geography,  for  which  he  has  done  much.  There  ia  still,  how- 
ever, room  for  a  systematic  treatise  on  the  snhji-ct  written  \u  the  light  of  recent 
developments  of  geography.  One  of  the  most  valuable  features  of  these  volumes 
is  the  large  number  of  maps  by  which  they  are  illustratetl,  exhibiting  in  a 
striking  manner  the  various  aspects  with  which  Dr.  Yeats  deals.  We  can  only 
briefly  point  out  such  of  tbo  sections  of  the  work  as  are  of  special  geographical 
interest.  In  the  first  volume,  pert  i.  deals  with  the  geography  of  the  home 
country^  the  adjacent  continent,  our  colonial  dependencies,  and  foreign  trad© 
centres.  In  one  chapter  Dr.  Yeats  endeavours  to  show  the  results  of  climate 
and  soil  on  the  industry  of  Great  Britain,  and  in  another  the  effects  of  geology 


793 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUCATIONS, 


on  the  industrial  history  of  the  British  race.  Other  countries  in  this  chApler 
he  treats  in  somewhat  ihp  same  fashion.  In  this  volume  there  is  a  Bmall  map 
of  the  wodd,  isbowinc;  the  geonrraphical  distrihution  of  the  raw  material  of 
inJustry  and  trade.  The  only  distinctively  geographical  feature  in  the  second 
volume  y  an  industrial  map  of  the  British  Islands,  exhibiting  theclnof  localities 
of  manufftcturing,  commercial^  and  agricultural  industry,  with  the  ratio  of 
populatiou  in  the  different  counties,  and  the  towns  classified  according  to  their 
respective  jxjpulations.  The  map  of  England  especially  seems  to  ua  on  too 
^mall  a  scale  for  practical  \itility.  Thia  volume  contains  a  great  amount  of 
mmnte  and  curiouH  iuformation.  Volume  iit.  contains  much  of  geograpbical 
interest.  It  deals,  for  example,  with  the  earliest  trade  routes,  aod  in  ample 
detail  with  the  commerce  of  the  ancients — Phoenicia,  Aesyria,  Babylonia, 
Carthage,  E^ypt  aud  Ethiopia,  Greece,  Rome;  medieval  eommerce— Byzan- 
tlum,  the  Saraoene,  the  Italiao  Republics,  Portugal,  Spain,  France,  EQ^^land^ 
Netherlands,  Northern  Euro|>e,  Germany  ;  lastly,  modern  commerce,  including 
all  the  existing  commerciat  nations  and  their  colonitjs*  Here  we  have  two 
trade-route  maps  and  a  map  of  Great  Britain  and  her  colonies,  to  scale.  The 
last  volume  has  also  a  gcK>d  deal  of  gangraphy  throughout  its  four  |)arts — 
I.  British  industry  and  trade  at  the  close  of  the  nineteenth  century ;  XL  Foreign 
and  coioniiil  relations  at  the  close  of  the  nineteenth  century;  IlL  Commercial 
policy  of  the  second  half  of  the  nineteenth  century ;  IV.  Natural  divisions  of 
trade  thronghont  the  world.  Appended  is  a  tabulated  list,  covering  over 
oO  pagesj  of  towns  or  trade  centres  ioii>ortant  in  businessj  giving  in  each  case 
the  country,  the  local  industry,  the  local  market,  nearest  fiort,  currency,  appmxi- 
mate  mileage  from  Loudon,  and  natural  diviiiion  nf  trade.  This  volume  has 
several  maps,  showing  natural  divisions  of  trade  and  thorough  lares  of  various 
classes.  Such  h  a  brief  analji'sis  of  some  of  the  leadinj:^  geographical  features  of 
this  elaborate  and  comprehensive  work,  which  most  have  cost  its  author  a  vast 
amount  of  labour  and  resi'arch. 


The  following  works  have  also  been  added  to  the  Library : — 

Kitter,  Carl — Gescbichte  der  Erdktinde  und  der  Entdeckungcn.  Vorlesungen  an 
der  Universitat  zu  Ijerlin  gehalteo.  Herausgegeben  von  H.  A,  Daniel.  Berlin^ 
G.  Eeimer,  1861 ;  Bvo.,  pp.  vi.  and  265,  portrait. 

' Allgemeine    Erdkunde.      Vorlesungen    an    der    Univeraitat    zu     Berlin 

^ohalten.  Herausgegeben  von  H.  A.  Daniel  Berlin,  G.  Keimer,  1862 :  8va, 
pp.  vi.  and  240. 

[ 1  Carl  Ritter.      Ein  Lebensbild  nach  seinem  handschriftlicben   NachlasF, 

dargestellt  von  D.  G.  Kramer.  Zweite  durchgesehene  und  mit  efnigen  Reisebriefen 
vcrmehrte  Ausgabe.  Erster  Theil.  Nebst  einem  Bilduiss  RitfcerB,  Zweiter  Theil. 
Die  Reisebriefe  en  thai  tend.  Halle,  Verlag  der  Buchhandlung  des  Waiscobauses, 
1875 :  8vo,,  pp.  (L)  vi.  and  458  ;  (IT.)  320,  portrait. 

nrareniua,  BemhardJ — Berahardi  Vareni  Med.  D.  Bescriptio  Regni  Japonia^  et 
Siam.  Item,  De  Jaix)morum  Religione  &  Siamenaium.  De  Diversis  omniujn 
Gentium  Religionihus.  Quibus,  praemissi  Dissertatione  de  variia  Rerum  piibli- 
carum  gencribus,  addnntur  qua?dam  de  Priscf»rum  Afrorum  fide  excerpta  ex  Leone 
Africano.    Cautabrigia%  Joan.  Hayes,  1673  ;  12 mo.,  i>p.  292. 

Warburg  Fever  Tincture  and  Tonic  Medicine.  Statement  proving,  by  numerous 
official  documents,  its  remarkable  curative  power  m  Fevers,  with  Evidence,  show- 
ing its  great  superiority  to  Quinine  in  All  Fevers,  not  excepting  Puerperal  (see 
p.  67X  both  as  regards  Efficacy,  Economy,  and  Rapidity  of  Action,  and  its  value 
as  a  Tonic,  in  Debility  and  Convalescence.  London,  Dr.  Warburg :  12mo,,  pp. 
74,  portrait.    [Preseuted  by  Sir  C.  W,  Wilson.] 


(    723    ) 

NEW  MAPS. 
(By  J.  CoLBS,  Map  Curator  b.qa) 

EUBOPE. 

Denmark. —Goneralstabens  topographiske  Eaart  over  •— .  Scale  1 :  40,000  or 
1*8  inches  to  a  geographical  mile.  Kalchographeret  og  graveret  ved  Generalo 
BtabeD,  Ejobenhavn,  1886.    Sheets :  Davbjerg,  Hadsund,  Hjarbcek.    (Dtdau.) 

France* — Carte  de ,  dress^  par  le  Service  Vicinal  par  ordre  de  M.  le  Ministre 

de  rint^rieur.  Scale  1 :  100,000  or  1*3  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Paris, 
1887.  Sheets :  II.— 14,  Landunvez ;  II.— 16,  He  d'Ouossant ;  V.— 13,  Tr^guier ; 
v.— 18,  Lorient;  VI.--14,  St.  Brieuc;  XI.— 13,  Falaise;  XVI.— 6,  Calais; 
XXIL— 20,Louhans;  XXIL— 32,  Carpentras ;  XXIV.— 24,  St  Julien;  XXIV. 
—26,  Annecy ;  XXV.— 25,  Sallanches.  Hachette  et  Cie.,  Paris.  Price  Id.  each 
sheet.    (Dulau.) 

Oesterreichsch'TTngarischen   Monarchie.  — Specialkarte   der  Scale 

1 :  75,000  ur  1  geographical  mile  to  an  inch.  E.  k.  militar-geografisches  Institut. 
Wien,  1887.  Sheets:  Zone  13,  Col.  XXV.  Tokaj ;  13— XXVIII.  Nagy  SzOlliJa 
und  Huszt;  16— XXV.  Debrecen;  15— XXVIII.  Szin^rvdralja  und  Eraszna- 
B^ltek;  17— XXV.  Bereltyo-Ujfalu  und  E5ros-Tarjdn ;  17— XXVI.  Grosswar- 
dein;  19— XXV.  Sarkad  und  Eis  Jen5;  30— XVI.  Livno;  31— XIII.  2irije 
(Zuri);  34 — XVII.  Neum  und  Stagno  Grande.  Price  1».  id,  each  sheet, 
(Didau.) 

Waldenborg. — Special-karte  des  Ereises ,  von  G.  Olbich.  Scale  1 :  75,000  or 

1  geographical  mile  to  an  inch.    Waldenburg,  Enorrn.    Price  Is.  6d.    {Dulau.) 

ORDNANCE  SUBVEY  MAPS. 
PublicatioiiB  Uiiied  during  the  mooth  of  Sepiamber  1S8T. 
1-inoh— Oenenl  Map*  :— 

ExGLAKD  AKD  WALKS :  New  Serlv.    Sheet!  108,  223,  261  and  262  (on  one),  la  outline. 
6-inoh— Conn^  Meps:— 

£NOLAin>  Aim  Walks ;  Bedfordshire:  27  N.W.^  u.  Bl^ec]^£>okshiJ■e'  20  K,W.,  u  N.E., 
S.W..  24  N.W.,  27  N.E.,  28  N.W,  40  N  Ji. ;  If.  each.   Carobrid^eflliiro  ;  bS.E.,m  K\\\  19  N.l-l, 

20  S.W.,  28  S.E.,  29  N.W..8.E..34  N.K.,8.K.;  If.  eacli,  Cajdiffanehlre:  1  K.t;..  aW..  H.E^ 
2S.W.;  It.  each.    Carmartlienshire :  9  N.R,  ii»N  W  ;  li.  i>a<  h.    De7onshli-« :  13S.W., 

21  N.W..  S.W.;  If.  each.  Dorsetshire:  6  8.W..  m  S.VV..  js  N.W.,  s.W,,  ai:.,  ?o  S.W ,  S.W., 
33  N. W..  34  N.W. ;  If.  each.  Qlouoestershire :  &a  N.  IL,  ?  i  !^.£L  ^  1 1.  eu h,    H«T6fordshire  - 

37  N.W.,  S  W..  40  N.E.,  8.W..  41  N.W..  43  N.K..  44  N.W..  46  JC.K.,  8.E.  i  1»,  catb.  Hmitiliftd  oa- 
BMre:  10  N.E..  ll  S.W..  16  N.E^  17  N.W..  13  N.E.,  19  N.W^  ^W,,  S.t^  at  U.K.,  2&  N.Jv;  Ji.^-^ch. 
lilnoolnshire :  29  N.W.,  N.E.,  8.W..  &E..  38  N.K..  aW.,  47  K.W.,  D5  S.E.,  T9  j^,W.,  hi  N>;., 
97  N.W..  N.E..  aw.,  8.E.,  112  N.E..  113  N.W.,  138  N.W,,  140  SAW  S.E.,  141  fi.K,  aW .  A  K., 
143  N.W..  147  &E..  149  8.E. ;  1*.  each.    Merionetbehtre  :  r.  S.K.,  Zi  N.W.,  ^y  svv..  35  sw\ 

38  N.W..  8.W.,  39  N.W.,  aW..  47  N.  W.,  4  8  N.  E, ;  1  ^  .=  Mont  gom  eryali  ii  e ;  ]  ^  S .  W . ;  It. 
Norfolk:  62  8.E.,74  N.W.,  N.E.;  if.  each.  Pembrokeshire:  32;  21.  6d.  Somerset- 
shire :  36  8  W.,  47  aE..  48  aw.,  71  N.W.,  aw.,  79  aE..  84  8. W. ;  u.  each.  Staffordshire : 
4  aw.,  20  aw. ;  If.  each.  Suffolk :  12  N.W.,  68  aw.,  78  N.E. :  If.  each.  Warwickshire : 
ioaE.,28N.E.;  if.each.   Wiltshire :  SO, 60 ;  2«.  6tf.  each.   3NJi;i4. 

26-inoh-Pariih  Maps>- 

EvoLAiTD  AVD  Walks:  Brsokxiookshire :  XXVL  4,  3f.  Cambridgeshire:  VTIT.  9,  i^  XL 
7.  8, 16.  XXIII.  9,  XXVII.  2,  4f.  each:  XXXI.  9,  XXXV.  4.  a^.  fscb  s  XXJtV.  T,  4J.;  XXXV.  *«.  3*. ; 
XXXV.  16, 5f.;  XXXVl.  1,  2,  XXXIX.  2,  4,  7,  11.  16.  3i,  eacb  ;  XL.  4.  5f.;  XL.  7.  4J,|  XU  IL  IC, 
XLVL  2. 4,  8. 14.  UlL  3. 7.34.  each ;  LIIL 16. 4f.  Carmarthenshire :  XXVL  u,  :u.  Devon* 
shire :  XiX.  lO,  4f.;  XXX.  4.  8,  CXIX.  10. 11, 12. 3f.  ea^ ti.  Ari»  Uwk r  iSrldetUiwe,  u.  Dorset- 
shire :  1. 12.  Ill  2. 12.  VII.  1.  St.  each.  Qlouoester«hlre :  XX VL  4,  ^.  Herefordshire : 
Xll.  14. 4f.;  XXXL  8. 16, 3f.  each  ;  XXXIIL  6,  U. ;  XXX VJ.  va  3s.  Xreioester shire  t  XXXIL 
6.  liincolnshire :  XIL  2.  Si.  each;  LXXII.  9,  4«.;  LXXIL  m,  13,  u.  3i.  Mirh;  LXXVlJ^s. 
41.;  LXXVII.  4.  7,  11,  16.  16,  3t.  each;  CLL  6.  4f.  monXetymerymhixm-  .XXXtlJ.  lo,  3i. 
Norfolk:  XXXIL  8,  4f.;  XXXIL  12.  6f.;  XXXn.  16.  X%\\\L  U.  XLL  »,  LVL  1.  a.  6.  9.  U»,  13. 
14.  LVIL  1.  LXVlll.  4.  7.  16.  LXIX.  6,  4f.  each;  LXIX  l*.  :kr  i  LXLX.  l:i,  T.XWl  L  ■^-  eadi; 
LXXXL  2.  34.;  LXXXL  6.  4t.;  LXXXL6.3t.;  LXXXLl4.4f.  Northamptonshire:  n.6. 
41.;  VIIL  4.  XXV.  9.  13.  XXVJIL  2.3f.each;  LXXIL  4. 11.  LXXVL  2.  LXXXIIL3,LXXXV.  1, 
31.  each.  Staffordshire:  XXX.  16,  6«.  Area  Book:  Dudley  Castle  Hill,  if.  Warwick- 
Bhire :  XXIlL  l,  4f.;  XXIIL  9,  XXXL  3, 4. 8. 3«.  each ;  XXXL  12.  &i. ;  XXXL  13.  XXXIL  1,  4. 
31.  each;  XXXIL  8.  4f.;  XXXIL  14.  3f.;  XXXI V.  2.  4i.;  XLV.  12. 16.  St. each.  Wiltshire: 
xxvilL  15.  XXXIL  6.  41.  each ;  U.  3. 16.  LVU.  6.  LXIIL  2, 3,  Sf.  each.  Worcestershire : 
Area  Books:  Hallow.  Wamdon.  Is.  each. 

Ko.  XT.-^Nov.  1887.]  3  s 


NEW  MAPS. 


Town  Pliin«—i(^f«iBC4l«;— 

Ekolavd  aw  Walks:  Bridgewtter,  L.  10»  I^  U,  15,  IR;  3#.«tLcb.  Lclceftter.  XXX f,  10.  9.  10.  ST. 
23, 24  ;  XXXI,  14.  J,  2,  3,  B,  «,  10;  3*.  e*cb.  March.  XV'L  L  «*.  9,  13,  W,  23 ;  2f,  e*cb.  isherbonie, 
V.  16.  10;  VI.  13,  1.  %  3,  «,  T,  «,  11.  n.  1:1,  10,  17;  2/.  l^»cll,  W*rvrlck,  XXXHL  10.  19,  21: 
XXXIll.  13,  U;  XXXUX.  14.  2,  fl»  U.    Wbbcch.  VII,  3,  H. 

(Stan/ordf  Agent) 

AFEICA. 

Algeria  et  de  la  TimiBic— Carte  murale  do  r ,  dresa^  par  J,  GauUier, 

geogmphe ;  desaineo  par  A,  Cuenot,  Scale  1 :  8W,000  or  10  "9  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.  Paris,  Maison  Logerot — J.  Gaultier.  Price  12i,  6(/,  in  2  sheets, 
IBs,  ihl,  mounted  on  roller  and  varnished.     (Dufan.} 

Congo  FrftURaiB.— Carte  du ,  dressee  en  1887  par  ordre  de  Mr.  le  S«  Secrdtaire 

d'Ktat  au  Mini&tfcre  de  la  Marine  et  dee  Colonies^  par  M.  Ch.  Rouvier,  Capitalno 
de  Fr^ate,  d'aprts  lea  travaux  des  explorateuiii  A-an^ais  et  Strangers,  Equa- 
torial scale  1 1 1,840,000,  or  25 '2  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Price  2s, 
(Duluu.) 

This  map  baa  been  compiled  from  the  latest  availahic  materials^  and  is  very 
neatly  drawn.  Tlie  boundaries*  laid  down  are  those  which  have  been  definitely 
settltd  by  the  commission  of  delimitaliou.  AU  heights  are  given  in  metres  ; 
the  positions  which  have  been  fixed  by  Captain  Ronvier  are  indicated,  and 
the  positions  of  military  poats,  factories*  and  custom-honaea  are  shown  by 
symbol. 

AMERICA. 

Brazil- — ^Originalkarte  der  siidlichen  Kolonicen  von  Rio  Grande  do  Sul  nnd  der 
Verkehra%H^rbindungen  mit  ibren  Absatzorten.  Nacb  neuen  Aufnahmen  voii 
Dr,  IL  voQ  Ihering,  L.  Wertheimer  u.a.  aowio  mit  Benutzung  dea  vorbaodenen 
Materials  entworfen  und  gezeichnet  von  Panl  Langhans.  locale  1 :  500,000  or 
6 "8  geographical  milea  to  an  inch.  Petermann's  *  Geographisclie  Mitteilungen,' 
Jabrgang  1887,  Taf.  15.— Originakkizzo  der  Deutschea  Kolonie  S,  Louren^o 
tmd  der  Beaacbbarten  Kolonieen.  Nach  Aufnahmen  von  Dr.  H,  von  Ihering, 
L,  Wertheimer  u*  Anderen  entvv  orfen  u.  gezeichnet  von  P.  Langhans.  Peter- 
mann's  *  Geographische  Mitteilongon/  Jahrgang  1887,  Taf.  16.  Jnstus  Perthes, 
Gotha.    (Dukm,) 

Florida. — Williams  and  BuabnelPs  New  Map  of ,  compi^led  from  the  surreys 

of  the  U.S.  General  Land  Office,  the  U.S.  Coast  Surveys,  Private  Surveys,  and 
other  original  aoiirces.  By  Arthur  T.  Williamii  and  John  W.  liushnell,  Jackson- 
ville, Fla,,  1886.  Scale  1 :  250,000  or  3 '4  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Oa 
rollers. 

This  map  being  drawn  on  so  larq;e  a  scale,  shows  distinctly  the  features  of 
the  country^  and  the  aystem  of  symboUc  shading  adopted  enables  any  person 
to  see  at  once  the  nature  of  the  land,  such  as  swamp  and  overflowed  land, 
prairie  and  savanna  land,  scrub  land,  high  and  dry  hammock  land, or  open  pine 
land,  all  of  which  are  indicated.  All  railvvnyis,  whether  m  operation  or  pro- 
jected, are  laid  down,  and  a  note  is  given  explaining  the  system  of  land  survey 
carried  out  in  the  State,  the  survey  suctions  l)eing  also  shown  on  the  map, 

Ontario.— Indexed  County  Map  and  Shippers'  Guide  of  -=-.  Scale  1 : 1,110,000 
or  15*2  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Bund,  McNally  &  Co.,  Chicago. 
(Tfiihner.) 

Vnited  States.— Indexed  County  and  Townsbip  Pwkct  Map  and  Ship|)ers*  Guide 
of  Maryland  ajid  Delaware.  Scale  1 : 725,000  or  try  geographical  miles  to 
an  inch, — ludexctl  Ck)unty   and  Township  Pocket  Map  and  Shippers*  Guide  of 


Kew  maps.  "125 

Miohigan*  Scale  1 : 1,300,000  or  17  '8  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. — Indexed 
Railroad  and  County  Map  of  Kew  York.  Scale  1:1,120,000  or  16-3  geo- 
graphical miles  to  an  inch.    Hand,  M'Nally  &  Co.,  Chicago.    (Truhner.) 

PACIFIC  OCEAN  ISLANDS. 

StUldwich  Islands. — ^Map  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  compiled  from  the  latest 
Government  Surveys  by  S.  E.  Bishop,  for  J.  M.  Oat,  Jun.  &  Co.  Honolulu,  1886. 
Scale  1 : 1,200,000  or  16*4  geogn^hical  miles  to  an  inch.  Schmidt  Label  and 
Lith.  Co.,  San  Francisco,  Cal.  U.S.A. — Maui,  Hawaiian  Islands,  Hawaiian  Govern- 
ment Survey,  W.  D.  Alexander,  Surveyor-General.  Scale  1 :  60,000  or  1  •  2  inches 
to  a  geographical  mile.  1885.  2  sheets.  Julius  Bien  &  Co.,  Photo,  lith. — Map 
of  the  Island  of  Hawaii,  Hawaiian  Islands.  W.  D.  Alexander,  Surveyor-General. 
Scale  1:240,000  or  3 '2  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  1886.  Preliminary 
edition. 

The  first  of  these  is  a  general  *map  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  on  the  scale  of 
16*4  geographical  miles  to  an  inch,  coloured  to  show  the  boundaries  of  districts. 
The  next  is  a  map  showing  the  results  of  the  survey  of  Maui,  on  the  scale  of 
1  •  2  inches  to  the  geographical  mile.  It  has  been  produced  by  photo-lithography, 
the  heights  are  given  in  feet,  and  the  topographical  features  are  clearly  indicated 
by  a  combined  system  of  hatching  and  contour  lines.  The  third  is  a  map 
of  the  island  of  Hawaii,  on  which  the  same  system  of  indicating  physical 
features  is  followed  as  in  that  of  Maui.  An  interesting  feature  in  this 
map  is  the  manner  in  which  it  shows  the  lava  streams  which  have  at 
different  periods  issued  from  various  positions  on  the  slopes  of  Mauna  Loa, 
the  dates  of  each  being  given  where  known.  This  set  of  maps  beins  the 
result  of  actual  survey  constitute  a  valuable  addition  to  the  Society's  Map- 
room  collection. 

CHARTS. 

Admiralty.— Charts  and  Plans  published  by  the  Hydrographic  Office,  Admiraltyi 
in  May,  June,  July,  and  August  1887. 
No.  Inches. 

171        Index  chart  of  Admiralty  sailing  directions.    3d. 
1407        m      =        0*5        Scotland,  east  coast: — St.  AbVs  head  to  Aberdeen^ 

2s.  6d. 
2333        Lapland,  sheet  1 :  —Plan  added,  port  Vladimer. 
2250       m      =        0*35      Baltic,  Sweden :— Gotland  plans,  Faro  sund,    Slite 

Hamn,  Rhone  Hamn.    2$,  6d. 
2378        m      =3        1*5        Black  sea :— Btlg  river.    2$.  6d. 
1240        South  Polar  chart.    2s. 

907        m      =        0*8        Canada,  lake  Huron :— Georgian  bay  to  Clapperton 

island  (plans,  Little  Current,  Killarney  harbour). 
28,  6d. 
1036       m      =      various     Madagascar :— Bosi,  Murondava,  Vatomandri,  Maha- 

nuru.    Is.  6d. 
1263        d       =        0*9        China  sea.    2s.  ed. 
2683        ra       =        0-2        Pacific  Ocean.    5s. 

^-^      Jm      ^        0*33)     South-west  Pacific,  New  Hebrides  islands:— Banks' 
(m       «t        1*5  J        group.    2s. 
1022        m      ^      various     Islands  and  anchorages  in  the  South  Pacific  ocean  :  ^ 

Bounty  island.  Antipodes  islands.  Canton  island. 
Canton  island  anchorage,  Hull  island,  Phoenix 
islands,  Bimies  island.  Danger  island,  Nassau 
island.    Is.  Qd. 

8  s  2 


I  726  MEW  MAPS. 

!     .     I  No.  Inches. 

ill82  m       =        4-0  England,  west  coast:— Card  iff   and    Fenait 
npi)roaches  to.    lis.  6d, 

2151  m       =         5*0  England,  cast  coast :— Broadness   to  Miicki 

I    .    j  including  Gravcsend    and    Lower   Hope 

I        i  28.  Od. 

:                                      2251  m       =        0*35  Baltic,  Sweden  :~Kalniar  aound   and  Ukiv 

I  -  28.  6rf. 

*                               2228  Tristan  da  Cunha  group ;— Han  added,  Gough  island. 

■       j                               2187  m       =         1*75  Gulf  of  St  Lawrence: — Miramichi  bay.     2». 

910  m       =         2*0  Canada,  Lake  Huron :— Clapper  ton  channel 

1323  Independcncia  bay  to  Begueta  bay :— Plan  added,  Salinas  and  Cbi< 

1                               1067  m       •■=         1*1  Africa,  west  coast :— Loan  go  and  Black  Poi 

j  l8.Gd. 

\  228        m       =        4*0        Arabia,  north-cast  coast  :—Saadi  Islands.    6< 

832  m       =        0*5        BayofBengaP: — Chcddba  strait  and  Ramree 

'  28. 

833  Rangoon  river : — Plan  added,  China  Bakecr  river. 

'  864        m       =      various     Coral  sea : — Islets  and  reefs  in  the  Conl  sea. 

reefs;  Coringa  islets;  Flinders  and  adjacc 
]«. 
134        Harbours  and  anchorages  in  New  Hebrides : — Plan  added.  Dives  l 
1071        m       =         6*0        New  Hebrides; — North  coast  of  Aneitynmisli 

Patiick,  Ijipthav  and  Anau-un-re  ancboraj 
179        m       =        3*0        New  Hebrides: — ^Approaches  to  Pallikulo  bay 
(J.  V.  Votter,  AfjenL) 

CHARTS  CANCELLED. 

No.  Cancelled  bj 

1407  Eyemouth  to  the  Tay        ..      ..    )  New  chart,  St  AbVs  Head  to  Abei 

1408  P'irth  of  Tay  to  Aberdeen  ..      ..    5      deen 

2250  Gottland      New  chart,  Gottlacd     .:       ..      . 

2378  Bug  river New  plan,  Bus:  river 

1240  South  Polar  chart       New  chart.  South  Polar  chart      . 

2839  Ashrafi  islands  and  reefs. 

2683  Pacific  ocean       New  chart.  Pacific  ocean 

1182  CardiffandPenarth  roads..      ..   |  ^^^ /»^»-^  Cardiflf  and    Penan 

I      roads,  approaches  to 

2151  River  Thames,  fheet  4,  Graves-  1  New  chart.  Broadness  to  Muckin 
end  reach /      light 

2251  Kalmar  sound  and  Uland  island     \  ^^y!,  ''l'*'!'  ?*^°"''    "»«'>'l    •» 

(       Oland  island       

2187  Miramichi  bay New  plan,  Miramichi  bay 

604  Loango  bay.  Black  Point  bay  on  )  New  plan,  Loango  and  Black  Poii 

this  sheet \       bays 

832  Chediiba  strait  and  Riunree  road  |^  Xew  chart,  Chedilba    strait  tt 

and  harbour       j  ^  Ramree  harbour         

f.  087  Plan  on  this  bhect,  Aliicr  buy. 


NEW  MAPS.  727 


CHARTS  THAT  HAVE  RECEIVED  IMPORTANT  CORRECTIONS. 

No. '2664.  France,  west  co«i8t : — D'Arcachon  point  to  Coiibre  point.  2648.  France, 
west  coast : — Coubre  pf)int  to  Les  Tables  d'Ulonne.  2700.  France,  north  coast : 
— Port  St.  Malo.  943.  Philippine  islands: — Molucca  passage  to  Manila. 
2729.  Ireland,  north  coast : — Sligo  and  Ballysadare  bays.  2057.  Ireland,  west 
coast : — West  port  bay.  2297.  Baltic,  Bothnia  gulf:— Hango  head  to  South 
Quarken.  2234.  Black  Sea: — Sea  of  Azov.  235.  Arctic  Sea: — Davis  strait 
and  Baffin  bay.  1747.  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence : — Northumberland  strait,  western 
part.  2754.  North  America,  east  coast: — Long  island  sound,  eastern  part. 
659.  West  Indies : — Florida  strait  2446.  Africa,  west  coast :— Niger  or  Kwarra 
river.  923.  Red  Sea : — Harbours  and  Anchorages  in  Red  Sea.  41.  India,  west 
coast : — Kundari  to  Bona  Pagoda.  828.  Bay  of  Bengal : — Cape  Comorin  to 
Cocanada.  136.  Bay  of  Bengal: — Hdgli  river,  Calcutta  to  Saugor  point. 
823.  Bay  of  Bengal : — Coronge  island  to  White  point.  218.  Bay  of  Bengal : — 
Mergui  harbour.  1723.  Australia,  west  coast :  --Houtman  rocks,  and  adjacent 
coast.  2124.  New  Guinea,  south  coast: — Bramble  haven  to  Rossel  island. 
982.  Pacific  ocean,  Caroline  islands : — Truk  or  Hogolu  islands. 
(J,  D.  Potter,  Agent,) 

Prenoh  Charts.— No.  4143.  Mer  M^itcrrande.  C^te  Sud  de  Corse.  Port  de 
Bonifacio.  1886.— 4166.  Mer  M^iterran^e.  COte  Est  de  Corse.  Bastia.  1887. 
---4174.  Mer  des  Indes.  C<^te  Est  de  Madagascar  de  la  Bale  d'Antongil  ik 
Matitanana.  1887. — 4175.  Mer  de  Chine.  Golfe  du  Tonkin.  Entries  de  KuaY- 
Chin-Mun  et  Tsieng-Mun  et  Canaux  int^rieurs  entre  Ed-Bao  et  Tien- Yen.  1887. 
—  4147.  Chine.  C6te  Nord  de  Formoso.  Baie  de  Ke-Lung.  1886.— 4152.  Mer 
de  Chine.  Golfe  du  Tonkin.  Canaux  int^rieurs  aux  environs  de  Eo-EaT-Moun 
et  Dam-h4.  1886.— 4155.  Mer  de  Chine.  Golfe  du  Tonkin.  Passes  an  Sud  dc 
TArchipel  des  Fai-Tsi-Long.  1886.— 4163.  C6te  Est  de  Chine.  Hes  Pescadores 
(Mouillages  Intdrieurs).  1886.— 4164.  Mer  de  Chine.  Golfe  du  Tonkin.  Grande 
Baie  de  FaT-Tsi-Loog.  1886.^4156.  C6te  Est  de  Chine.  He  Matsu.  1886.— 
4171.  Mer  de  Chine.  Golfe  du  Tonkin.  Canaux  Int^rieurs  pr^  de  Tsieng-Mui- 
Tao.  1887.— 4176.  Mer  de  Chine.  Golfe  du  Tonkin.  Port  de  Eam-Fa.  1887. 
—4160.  Mer  Rouge.  Mouillage  de  Tile  de  Tirahn.  1886.— 4103.  .Tunisie. 
Golfe  de  Gab^.  Baie  de  la  Srira  El-Ehedime  ou  des  Sur^Eenis.  1885. — 4086. 
Tunisie.  CCte  Est.  Mahedia  (Ancicnne  Africa).  1885. — 4150.  Mer  des  Indes. 
Mouillages  k  la  C6te  Guest  do  Madagascar.  Morondava.  Bosy.  lies  Barren  et 
Atterrages  de  Maintirano.  1886. — 4157.  Madagascar.  Cdte  N.O.  Baie  de 
Mahajamba.  Mouillage  de  Nosy  Manja.  1886. — 4149.  Mer  des  Indes.  Mouillages 
&  la  Cote  Est  de  Madagascar.  Vatomandry.  Mahanoro.  1886.— 4161.  Mer  des 
Indes.  Mouillages  aux  Comores.  He  de  Moheli.  Grande  Comore.  C6te  S.E. 
Croquis  du  Mouillage  dc  Shendini.  He  de  Moheli.  Mouillage  de  Fomboni. 
Grande  Comore.  CCte  N.O.  Croquis  du  Mouillage  de  Mitsamuhuli.  Anjouan. 
Havre  de  Pomony.  Anjouan.  Mouillage  de  Mutsammudu.  1886. — 4141.  Mer 
des  Antilles.  Haiti.  Golfe  de  Port  au  Prince  et  He  de  la  Gonave.  1886. — il53. 
Amdrique  Mdridionale.  Chili.  Baie  d*Iquique.  1886. — 4170.  Oc^an  Pacifique. 
Archipel  de  la  Socidt^.  He  Huahine.  Mouillages  et  Passes  de  Fare  (Owhare). 
1887.    Service  Hydrographique  de  la  Marine,  Paris. 

Guyana. — Eaart  van  de  Eust  van  ,  van  de  Essequebo-rlvier  tot  Cayenne. 

bcale  1:750,000  or  10*3  geographical  tiiiles  to  an  inch.    Samengesteld  \iit  ver« 


7SB 


NEW  MAl»S. 


Fclii  11  elide  broanen.  Uitgegovcn  door  liet  Mioiflterie  van  Marine,  Afdeeling 
Hydrograpbie.    ^8  Hage,  Gebr  van  VkaL    Price  Ss,    {Duiau,) 

Java.— Kfiart  van  bet  Eiland *,  en  ombg^endo  pilandco  en  vaarwaters,  uit  de 

joiif^.ste  Wri;:ton  en  opnamen  tczatnengefittdd  door  Jacob  Swart.  Amsterdam, 
fxyffardfs  BocklimideL  Scale  1:500,000  or  G'8  geograpbical  miles  lo  on  inch* 
Price  11,  5*.    G  &beeta,    {Dulau,) 

United  States  Cliartfl.— No,  1014,  CaldemBay.  Island  of  Santo  Domingo,  Wett 
Indies.  l3.  3f/,— 1017.  West  Coast  of  Central  America.  Judas  Point  to  Barica 
Point.  25.  4rf. — 1045,  Colnett  Baj,  West  Coast  of  Lower  California,  Is.  Id, — 
1048*  Coatzacoalcos  River,  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Is.  Ir/.— Pilot  Chnrt*  of  the  North 
Atlantic  Occrd,  September  and  October  1887.  Pablislied  at  tbe  Hydrogrepbic 
Offiocj  Navy  Department,  Washington,  D.C, 

ATLASES. 

Argentine  Eepublic-^Atlas  de  la  PepilbUca  Argentina,  constrnido  y  pnblicado, 
pur  reaolucion  del  *  Instituto  Geogrnfico  Argentino*  bajo  los  auBpicios  del  Exmo* 
Gobiemo  Nacional  y  redactado  por  el  Dr.  Arturo  Seelstrang,  miembro  del 
Instituto-  Buenos  Aires :  Lit<^rafia  y  Encuadernacion  do  Gnillcnno  Kraft, 
1887.     Part  11. 

This  IS  tbe  aecond  isBii©  of  the  atlas,  and  it  conaiuts  of  three  maps  of 
portions  of  the  province  of  Buenos  Ay  res,  two  ma^js  of  the  province  of 
Hanta-Fu,  and  one  of  tbe  provinces  of  Tncuman  and  Santiago  del  Kstero ;  the 
two  former  are  drawn  on  the  scale  of  13*6,  and  tbo  latter  20*4  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.  Some  of  tbe  sheets  contaiu  a  good  deal  of  now  work ;  all 
meann  of  oommuDication  are  laid  down  ;  tbey  arc  clearly  drawn,  and  are  very 
creditable  8|>ecimens  of  cartography, 

Berghails*  PhyBikalisclier  Atlas  (begriindet  1886  yon  Heinrich  Berghaus).^ 
75  Karten  in  sicben  Abteilnngen,  en  thai  tend  mehrere  bundert  Darstellungen 
liber  Geologic,  Hydrographic,  Meteorologie,  Erdmagnetismus^  Pflanzenverbreitung, 
Ticrverbreitung  und  Vulkerkunde.  Vollatandig  neu  bearbeitet  und  unter  Mit- 
wirknng  von  Dr.  Oscar  Drnde,  Dr.  Georg  Gerland^  Dr.  Julius  Hann,  Dr.  G. 
Hartlaub,  Dr.  W.  Marshall,  Dr.  Georg  Neumayer  und  Dr.  Karl  v.  Zittelj 
herausgegeben  von  Professor  Dr.  Hermann  Bergbaup,  Dreizehnte  Liefcrung. 
lubalt :  Nr,  13,  Nord-Amerika.  Nr.  19^  Seetiefen,  Nr.  69,  Scbraetterlinge. 
Titel  und  Vorbemerkungen  zum  Atlas  der  Tierverbrcitung.  Gotha,  Jueius 
Perthes.     1887.     Price  38.  each  part.    {Ditlan.) 

The  thirteenth  ptartof  tliis  atlas,  which  is  being  Issued  with  commendable 
punctuality,  contains  three  sheets  of  miiiJs.  Sheet  No.  13  is  a  geological  map 
uf  North  America,  on  which  twelve  inset  maps  of  dilferent  districts  are  given, 
drawn  on  greatly  enlarged  scales.  Sheet  No.  16  is  a  map  of  the  world  on 
Mercator'fl  projection,  showing  ocean  depths,  coasts,  harbours,  and  the  density 
of  tbe  sea;  in  addition  to  this, many  iuteresting  circumstances  connected  with 
hydrography  are  given,  such  as  the  limit  of  coral  formatioo,  the  portions  of 
coasts  indented  by  fiords^  and  ]X3rtionfl  of  the  earth's  «iurface  below  the  sea- 
level.  Mr.  Buchanan  3  maps  exhibiting  the  density  of  the  ocean  are  given  on 
a  reduced  scale,  as  well  as  eight  plana  of  characteristic  harbours.  Sheet  No, 
59  contains  »ix  maps,  three  of  which  are  given  to  illustrate  the  distribution 
of  macrolepidoptera  throughout  the  world,  and  the  remaining  three  have 
reference  to  tbe  distribution  of  land  and  freshwater  tooHuhcb.  As  usual^ 
with  previous  parts  of  this  atla?,  several  pages  of  explanatory  letter-press  are 
given. 

With  this  part  the  following:  portions  of  tbe  atlas  are  now  complete  :— 
Mtteurology,  distribution  of  plants,  and  ammaU. 


I 


NEW  MAPS.  729 

Xndla. — Statistioal  Atlas  of  ■  ■-,  prepared  for  the  Colonial  and  Indian  EzhibU 
tioD,  1886.  Calcutta,  printed  by  the  Superintendent  of  Government  Printing, 
India,  1886.    London,  Edward  Stonford.    Price  12«.  6d. 

This  atlas  contains  eight  maps  and  three  diagrams,  illustrative  of  the 
physical  geography,  meteorology,  agriculture,  irrigation,  trade,  and  emigration 
of  the  Indian  Empire;  these  are  accompanied  by  37  pages  of  expUmatory 
letter-press,  and  statistics.  The  maps  have  been  prepared  and  printed  in  the 
office  of  the  Surveyor-General  of  India,  and  the  chapters  have  been  written  by 
gentlemen  specially  qualified  to  undertake  the  task.  Under  these  circumstances 
it  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  the  work,  as  far  as  it  goes,  is  thoroughly 
satisfactory  ;  and  those  persons  who  are  desirous  of  obtaining  a  more  intimate 
acquaintance  with  facts  and  figures  concerning  India  are  referred  to  the  1 9th 
number  of  the  series  of  statements  annually  issued  by  the  India  Office,  exhibiting 
the  '  Moral  and  Material  Progress  and  Condition  of  India,'  published  at  the 
close  of  1885,  under  the  editorship  of  Mr.  James  Sutherland  Cotton ;  except, 
however,  in  the  cases  of  persons  who  may  be  making  an  exhaustive  study  ot 
some  special  subject,  the  present  work  will  be  found  to  contain  all  the  informa- 
tion that  is  required  for  general  reference,  the  maps  and  diagrams  being  well 
suited  to  the  purpose  for  which  they  were  produced,  and  the  letter-])ress  clear 
and  definite. 

Saint^Martin,  M.  Vivien  dc. — Atlas  Universel  de  Gdographie  Moderne,  Ancicnne 
et  du  Moyea  Age,  construit  d*aprds  les  sources  originales  et  les  documents  les 
plus  rocents,  cartes,  voyages,  mdmoires,  travaux  g^oddsiques,  etc.,  avec  un  Tcxto 
Analytique,  par  M.  Vivien  de  Saint-Martin  et  Fr.  Schrader.  Environ  HO  cartes, 
gravies  sur  cuivre  sous  la  direction  de  MM.  E.  Colin  et  Delaune.  7e  Livraisoo. 
Contenant :  Italic  m^ridionale ;  Empire  Kusse  (Asie  septentrionale) ;  Ocdanie 
(carte  gdn^rale).    Paris,  Hachette  et  Cie.    Price  5^.    (^Dulau,) 

This  is  the  seventh  issue  of  the  atlas.  It  contains  three  mapf,  all  of 
which  are  beautiful  specimens  of  cartography.  That  of  Southern  Italy  (scale 
1 : 1,500,000)  has  been  reduced  from  the  1 :  100,000  map  of  the  Italian  General 
Staff,  except  in  some  districts  where  maps  of  the  scale  of  1 :  50,000  and  1 :  25,000 
have  been  consulted.  An  inset  map  of  the  environs  of  Naples  is  given  on  the 
scale  of  1 :  500,000.  The  next  map  is  one  of  the  Russian  Empire,  scale 
1:15,000,000  is  reduced  from  Schwartz's  map  of  Siberia  on  the  scale  of 
1 : 1,680,000,  the  1 : 4,200,000  map  of  Russia  in  Asia,  the  first  and  second 
parts  of  Richthofen's  atlas  of  China,  and  the  map  of  the  Corea,  published  in 
'  Petermann's  Mitteilungen,'  map  10,  1883,  and  other  reliable  sources.  The 
third  map  is  one  of  Oceania,  on  Mercator's  projection.  It  is  just  twelve 
months  since  we  received  the  last  issue  of  this  atlas,  and  it  was  then 
announced  that  a  number  of  the  maps  were  then  in  the  engraver's  hands. 
This  fact  does  not  appear,  however,  to  have  expedited  its  publication,  and  at 
the  present  rate  at  which  the  numbers  are  issued  (viz.  three  in  each  year)  it 
will  still  take  rather  more  than  twenty-nine  years  to  complete. 

Stanford,  Edward. — London  Atlas  of  Universal  Geography,  exhibiting  the 
physical  and  political  divisions  of  the  various  countries  of  the  world.  Folio 
edition;  ninety  maps,  with  a  Geographical  Index.  London,  Edward  Stanford, 
1887.    Price,  half-morocco  extra,  12/. ;  full  morocco,  15/. 

This  atlas  is  in  a  great  measure  composed  of  the  maps  of  the  late  John 
Arrowsmith,  and  published  by  him  in  1840  in  his  '  London  Atlas  of  Universal 
Geography,'  which  title  Mr.  Stanford  has  given  to  the  atlas  under  consideration. 
The  plates  of  the  maps  referred  to  have  received  numerous  corrections  to  bring 
them  up  to  date.  This  must  have  entailed  a  work  of  considerable  magnitude, 
and  one  which  could  scarcely  be  expected  to  be  carried  out  without  some  over- 
sights. The  work  of  correcting  old  maps  is  always  unsatisfactory,  being  a  much 
more  difficult  task  than  the  construction  of  entirely  new  ones.    It  is  possible  thut 


PROCEEDINGS 

OF  THB 

ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  RECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


A  Journefj  round  Chinese  Turkistan  and  along  the  Northern  Frontier 
of  Tibet.    By  A.  D.  Carey. 
(Head  at  the  Evening  Meeting,  November  28tb,  1887.) 
Map,  p.  790. 
In  the  latter  part  of  May  1885  I  left  Simla,  intending  to  spend  two 
years'   leave  of  absence  in  carrying  out  a  long-cherished  scheme  of 
travelling  on  the  frontiers  of  Northern  Tibet.      Through  the  kindness 
of  the  Government  of  India  I  was  furnished  with  a  passport  from  the 
Chinese  Government  authorising  me  to  visit  Turkistan,  China  Proper, 
and  Tibet,  and  I  had  also  provided  myself  with  a  stock  of  presents  suit- 
able for  the  different  classes  of  people  I  should  have  to  deal  with, 
without  which   the  utility  of  the   passport  would   have  been  much 
diminished. 

I  had  selected  the  treaty  road  to  Ladakh  through  the  Eulu  and 
Lahoul  valleys  in  preference  to  the  Kashmir  route,  and  started  by  the 
Great  Hindustan  and  Tibet  road — the  somewhat  high-sounding  title 
given  to  an  excellent  bridle-path  from  Simla  to  the  Sutlej.  After 
passing  Narkanda,  a  favourite  resort  of  holiday-makers  from  Simla 
during  the  spring  and  autumn,  crossing  the  Sutlej  below  Kotgarh,  and 
traversing  the  entire  length  of  the  Kulu  valley,  I  was  delayed  for  somo 
days  at  the  Rotang  Pass,  separating  Kulu  from  Lahoul.  The  baggage 
was  carried  over  by  coolies,  but  in  consequence  of  the  depth  and  softness 
of  the  snow  the  unladen  mules  could  not  cross  until  the  20th  of  June.  At 
Kailang,  the  residence  of  the  venerable  Tibetan  scholar  and  missionary, 
Dr.  Heyde,  I  was  joined  by  Mr.  Ney  Elias,  British  Commissioner  in 
Ladakh,  also  bound  for  Turkistan,  and,  travelling  in  his  company, 
crossed  the  Baralacha  Pass  at  the  head  of  the  Lahoul  valley  with  some 
difficulty  on  the  7th  of  July.  At  Leh  I  found  Mr.  Dalgleish,  whoso 
services  I  had  secured  as  Turki  interpreter  and  assistant  for  the  trip, 
awaiting  my  arrival,  he  having  come  down  a  few  days  previously  from 
Y'aikand,  where  for  some  years  past  he  has  made  his  home. 

jMy  plan  was  to  reach  Turkistan  by  the  route  through  the  unin- 
habited tract  of  Tibet  lying  between  Rudokh  and  Polu,  which  is  now 

No.  XII.— Deo.  1887.]  3  f 


7sa 


A  JOURNEY  ROUND  CHINESE  TURKISTAN 


rarely^  if  ever,  used.  Acting  on  tlio  advico  of  Mr,  EHoa,  who  fi-eelj 
gave  me  the  henefit  of  his  great  experience,  and  with  the  assistance  of 
Eai  Bahadur  Eadha  Kisheu,  Wazir  of  Ladakb,  I  struck  a  bargain  for 
baggage*ponies  with  the  Tartars  of  the  frontier  villages  on  the  PangoDg 
Lake,  and  left  Tankse  on  the  12th  of  Anguat  with  a  caravan  of  thirty- 
one  men  and  forty-nine  ponies.  To  save  the  ponies  as  long  as  possible, 
yaks  were  engaged  to  carry  the  baggage  as  far  as  the  frontier  between 
Ladakh  and  lludokii,  at  the  head  of  the  Changchenmo  valley-  An  easy 
road  DOW  led  to  the  Mangtza  Lake,  a  fine  sheet  of  salt  water  alhout  nine 
miles  ia  length,  and  to  another  small  lake  close  by,  from  which  salt  is 
collected  by  people  from  Rndokh  and  Ladakb.  The  severity  of  the 
stmggle  for  existence  in  these  l)aiTen  regions  is  well  illustrated  by  the 
fact  that  natives  of  Baltistan  bring  dried  apricots  from  Scardo  ta 
Tankse,  and  return  with  salt  from  tho  Mangtza  Lake  along  the  bed  of 
the  Shy  ok  river,  over  as  rough  and  bad  a  pathway  as  can  be  found 
anywhere,  the  burden  on  each  man's  back  being  more  than  120  lb, — a 
striking  example  of  verj^  hard  work  for  the  smallest  possible  recompense. 

At  tho  Mangtza  Lake  wo  struck  the  road  between  Kudokh  and  Polu, 
which  was  surveyed  by  Kishen  Singh,  one  of  the  Pandits  attached  to  Sir 
Di  Forsyth's  mission  to  Turkistan ;  and  as  the  guide  we  had  with  ua 
turned  out  to  bo  entirely  ignorant  of  the  route,  we  were  obliged  to  find 
the  way  for  oui'selves  with  the  aid  of  the  Pandit's  map  and  notes. 
Thanks  to  the  admirable  care  and  accuracy  with  which  his  work  had 
been  done,  we  found  no  very  serious  difficulty  in  doing  this,  and  reached 
Poln  without  the  loss  of  a  single  baggagc^animal  on  the  12th  of 
September,  exactly  a  month  after  leaving  Tanks^. 

At  various  times,  and  notably  in  tho  Geographical  Eeport  by  Colonel 
Trotter  printed  at  chapter  vii.  of  the  Eeport  of  Sir  D,  Forsyth's  mission, 
hopes  have  been  expreesed  that  this  road,  if  rendered  available  for 
traffic,  would  form  a  valuable  trade  route,  as  it  runs  direct  to  India 
without  passing  through  any  part  of  the  temtorj^  of  tho  Maharaja  of 
Kasshmir,  Judging  from  tho  portion  of  it  which  I  saw,  I  do  not  think 
such  an  expectation  can  be  realised*  From  the  frontier  of  Ladakh  to  the 
Sulphur  Horse  Pa®*  at  the  head  of  the  Polu  ravine  the  road  is  certainly 
an  easy  one,  inasmuch  as  it  is  fairly  level  and  free  from  obstructions  or 
very  bad  places.  But  the  great  height  of  over  16,000  feet  at  which  it 
runs,  and  tho  resulting  oppression  of  breathing  during  so  many  days 
continuously,  make  it  extremely  trying  to  both  men  and  animals.  The 
grass  at  such  an  elevation  is  always  coarse  and  scanty,  and  probably 
August,  September,  and  Octuber  are  the  only  months  during  which  it 
wonld  be  safe  for  a  trader^s  caravan  to  attempt  the  journey.  Snow  fell 
almost  daily  during  my  march,  though  it  f^nickly  melted;  and  the 
Tartars  subsetjuently  informed  me  that  on  thoir  way  back  in  September 
and  October  snow  fell  on  eighteen  successive  days,  and  they  lost  several 
of  their  poni»  s  in  consequence.    Another  drawback  to  the  route  is  that  it 


4 


AND  ALONG  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIEE  OF  TIBET. 


738 


enters  Tarkietan  at  a  point  too  distant  from  the  markets  of  Yarkand  and 
Kasbgar,  The  ravin©  from  the  Snlphur  Horse  Pass  to  Polti  is  so  difficult 
as  to  he  impracticable  for  laden  baggage-animals.  I  succeeded  in  getting 
through  it  onlj  through  tho  splendid  qualities  of  the  Tartar  ponymen, 
-who  carried  the  loads  on  their  shoulders  over  the  worst  parts  of  the  road. 
With  any  other  class  of  men  it  wouhl  have  been  almost  hopeless.  Tb© 
water  in  the  bed  of  tho  torrent,  which  has  to  bo  crossed  many  timesj 
was  fortunately  low,  or  the  ravine  would  have  been  impassable.  I  am, 
however,  not  sure  that  another  and  easier  road  to  the  foot  of  the  pas« 
■tloes  not  exifitt  though  from  the  cantious  reserve  of  the  Polu  villager  I 
was  unable  to  obtain  any  definite  information  in  reply  to  my  inquiries 
<m  the  subject.  But  in  any  case  I  am  convinced  that  the  route  is  a 
nBelefifl  one  for  trade  purposes.  The  chief  point  in  its  favour  is  that  it 
avoids  Kashmir  territory,  a  consideration  now  of  no  importance  since, 
owing  to  improvement  in  our  political  relationts  wifh  Kashmir,  traffic 
passing  through  that  State  by  the  Srinagar  and  Miirree  road  is  as  free 
from  interruption  as  on  the  treaty  road  vitl  Lahonh 

The  existence  of  the  Polu  road  from  India  was  entirely  unknown  to 
the  Chinese  authorities  at  Kiria,  and  the  news  of  our  arrival  appears  to 
have  caused  some  consternation.  We  were  informed  that  the  garrison 
was  called  out  at  midnight,  and  200  men  were  sent  half-way  to  Polu, 
while  the  commanding  officer,  with  a  smaller  body  of  men  and  several 
Mabommedan  officials,  came  to  Polu  on  the  evening  of  the  10th,  having 
marched  more  than  oO  miles  during  tho  day.  The  next  morning  they 
paid  me  a  visit,  saw  the  passport,  and  were  very  cordial  and  profuse  in 
oflers  of  assistance*  The  Chinamen  spent  a  HvLy  in  exploring  the  road 
by  which  we  had  come  down,  and  before  returning  to  Kiria  instructed 
the  villagers  that  all  our  wants  were  to  be  supplied. 

Leaving  Polu,  we  followed  the  Kiria  river,  which  has  cut  itself  a 
channel  200  or  300  feet  deep  in  the  soft  earth.  The  banks  are  so  precipi- 
tous that  we  had  some  difficulty  in  finding  a  place  from  which  tho 
water  was  accessible  for  our  camp. 

Kiria,  the  chief  place  of  the  district  of  the  same  name,  is  a  small 
nnwalled  town,  with  a  fairly  good  bazaar.  The  principal  industry  of 
the  district  is  agriculture.  As  elsewhere  in  Turkistan,  farming  opera- 
tions are  entirely  dependent  on  irrigation  from  the  streams  which  are 
fed  by  tho  melting  of  the  snow  on  tho  mountains,  and  tho  Mirab,  or 
officer,  whose  duty  it  is  to  regulate  the  supply  of  water  to  the  cultivators, 
is  a  functionary  of  considerable  importance.  Within  the  area  of  irrin-a* 
tion  the  country  is  dotted  over  with  poplar,  mulh^iTy,  and  other  trees, 
and  is  extremely  fertile.  Good  crops  of  wheat,  Indian-corn,  cotton,  <l'C., 
&c,y  are  obtained,  while  fruit  especially  grapes,  melons,  and  peaches — 
and  various  kinds  of  vegetables  are  plentiful  and  good.  Outside  tho 
zone  of  irrigation  all  is  waste  and  barren. 

The  respect  and  civility  shown  to  us,  as  Englishmen,  by  all  classes 

3  F  2 


734 


A  JOURNEY  ROUND  CfllNESE  TQRKISTAX 


of  the  people  were  very  marked.  I  was  often  rather  enihaiTassed,  when 
Btrolling  about  the  country^  "by  the  attentions  in  the  shape  of  presents  of 
fmit  and  sweetnieats^  invitations  to  stop  and  partakeof  tea,  and  so  forth, 
offered  me  by  tbo  inmates  of  tho  farmhouses  near  which  I  passed,  while 
the  ilow  of  visitors  to  the  garden  in  which  we  were  encamped  was 
constant.    Crowds  of  sick  persone  begging  for  medicine  also  besieged  ns. 

Kiriii  is  connected  with  Khoten  by  a  good  bridged  road  with  well- 
grown  roadside  trees,  affording  a  grateful  shade  wherever  the  soil 
admits  of  iL  Siibstantial  marks  have  also  been  erected  at  intervals  of  » 
"  fotai,"  or  abont  2^  miles.  The  road  pasises  through  a  good  deal  of  very 
ban*en  country, 

Khoten  m  a  busy  manufacturing  town.  The  people  are  good  work- 
men, and  more  enterprising  than  Turks  elsewhere,  as  they  make  long 
joumtys  into  the  hills  in  search  of  gultL  The  principal  manufacture** 
are  c4irpots,  silk,  felt,  and  brass  and  copper  vessels.  Tho  area  of  arable 
land  is  too  small  to  snpplj'  the  wants  of  the  population,  and  com  and  rice 
are  consequently  imported— tho  former  from  Kargalik,  and  the  latter 
from  AksTi  and  Kuchar.  The  Mahommedan  city,  al'out  2J^  miles  in 
circimiferenoe,  is  very  poorly  built.  The  new  or  Chinese  town,  about 
half  a  mile  distant  from  the  old  town,  contains  tlie  public  offices,  the 
baiTacljs,  and  a  wide  stret^t  of  shops,  neatly  and  regularly  built.  Tho 
population  is  stated  to  be  about  rso,O(>0  souls.  Euins  of  tho  wall  of  an  | 
ancient  and  innch  larger  city  which  included  the  sites  of  the  present 
towns  are  distinctly  traceable  at  many  points,  I  left  Khoten  on  tho 
10th  of  October  by  the  Aksu  road,  which  follows  the  left  bank  of  the 
Yurangkash  river.  Two  miles  from  the  city  cultivation  ceased,  and, 
'with  the  exception  of  a  small  piece  of  land  at  Yangi  Arik,  10  miles  from 
Khoten,  and  another  somewhat  larger  at  Tawakal  on  tho  opposite  or 
right  bank  of  the  river,  about  40  miles  from  the  city,  no  cultivation  was 
met  with  until  Shah  Yar  was  reached.  There  is  plenty  of  land,  to  all 
appearance  suitable  for  the  plough,  lait  the  water-^aupply  is  considered 
insufficient  to  irrigate  a  larger  area  tlian  is  already  tilled.  Tho  road 
now  follows  the  river  up  to  its  junction  with  the  Karakash  at  a  camping- 
ground  called  Koshlash,  alxiut  68  miles  from  tho  city.  The  Karakash 
must  next  be  forded,  after  which  the  ronte  is  along  the  left  bank  of  th«* 
united  stream,  now  styled  Ihe  Khoten  river.  On  either  bank  is  a  thick 
belt  of  jungle,  fumi.shing  an  ample  supply  of  wood  and  grass  to  Iravellerft 
and  shepherds,  and  giving  nhelter  to  large  numbers  of  pheasants  and 
hares.  Beyond  the  strip  of  jungle,  which  is  of  varying  depth,  is  a  desert. 
About  00  miles  from  Khoten  we  passed  two  adjacent  and  parallel  ranges 
of  hills,  which  rise  abruptly  from  the  plain  to  a  height  of  500  feet  or 
more,  and  are  known  by  tho  name  of  Jlazar  Tugh  from  the  tomb  of  a 
^aint  on  the  summit  These  bills  run  in  a  north-westerly  direction 
until  they  cross  the  high  road  between  Tarkand  and  Aksu,  at  a  point  a 
few  miles  north  of  Maralbashi,  where  we  afterwards  recognised  them. 


AND  ALOXG  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  OF  TIBET. 


735 


The  peculiar  feature  in  those  hillB  is  thai,  though  touching  ono  auother 
Atid  Tunning  side  by  aide,  the  range  to  tho  uorth  is  white  in  colour, 
while  the  southern  one  is  a  strongly-marked  red. 

From  this  point  tho  river  had  dried  nj\  and  Avater  was  very  scarce. 
It  was  only  to  be  found  in  jhjoIs  few  and  lltr  between  which  had  fornxcd 
ill  tho  bed  of  the  river  beneath  the  banks.  This  inconvenience  was, 
however^  compensated  by  the  advautago  of  no  louger  Laving  to  follow 
all  the  sinnosities  of  the  bank,  and  finding  an  excellent  and  direct  road 
down  tho  river-bed.  Tracks,  both  uf  the  tiger  and  of  tho  JIaral  stag» 
were  now  very  numeroua  ;  but  the  jungle  is  so  dense  and  the  wood  of  the 
bushes  forming  it  so  brittle,  that  anything  like  stalking  w*as  impossible. 
Beating  might  bo  more  succossful,  though  it  would  be  very  uncertain^ 
owing  to  the  thickness  and  extent  of  the  jungle,  and  is,  moreover,  im- 
practicable*  because  beaters  are  not  procurable,  there  being  no  inhabitants. 
The  only  chance  seemed  to  bo  by  night  watch ing,  but,  though  I  sat  up 
throngh  several  nights  by  ptxils  of  water  in  likely-looking  places,  I  was 
never  fortunate  enough  to  get  a  shot. 

Tho  party  of  Russian  explorers  under  Genei*al  Frejevalsky  loft 
Khoten  for  Aksn,  a  few  days  before  niy  arrival  at  tho  former  place.  I 
had  hoped  to  overtake  them  and  muke  the  acfiuaintance  of  that  dis- 
tinguished traveller,  but  on  reaching  the  Tarim  I  was  informed  that  he 
had  gone  on  to  Aksu  four  or  five  days  prcxnonsly. 

Crossing  the  Tarim  at  the  ferry,  we  followed  its  course  as  closely  as 
the  nature  of  tho  country  permitted.  At  first  the  jungle  was  exceedingly 
dense  and  thorny,  and  as  there  was  very  little  trace  of  a  path,  it  was 
sometimes  no  easy  matter  to  make  way  througV  it.  Alxnit  20  miles  from 
tho  ferry  we  left  the  bush  and  entered  a  large  plain  covered  w*ith  high 
grass,  and  extending  for  man}^  miles,  until  at  Tippak  we  left  the  river, 
mid  after  crossing  13  miles  of  desert,  reached  the  outskirts  of  Shah  Yar. 
Six  miloa  farther  is  the  small  town  of  Shah  Yar,  in  the  midst  of  rice- 
fields,  containing  about  2000  iuhahittmts,  and  the  residence  of  a  Chines© 
•official  styled  Dalai,  snbordinate  to  the  Amban  of  Knchar. 

As  the  camelmeu  who  had  brought  our  baggage  from  Khoten  were 
•nnwilling  to  enter  into  a  fnrther  cngagcnient,  and  wished  to  return,  we 
now  made  efforts  to  procure  fresh  carriage.  The  Dalai  declined  to  give 
ns  any  assistance,  and,  after  making  many  frivolous  excuses,  ended  by 
stating  frankly,  no  doubt  with  perfect  truth,  that  it  waa  more  than  his 
place  w^aa  worth  to  allow  us  to  proceed  any  farther  in  the  direction  wo 
Oiad  been  travelling.  I  therefore  went  on  to  Kuchar  and  prefened  my 
request  to  the  superior  ChioLse  officials.  They  w^ero  \Qry  civil  and 
obliging,  but  at  the  same  time  showed  a  strong  relact*ince  to  sanction 
any  more  travelling  off  tho  main  road.  Eventually  I  carried  my  point 
on  giving  them  a  WTitten  assurance  that  no  respunsibility  should  attach 
to  them  in  case  of  any  mishap,  and  contenting  myself  with  a  ciiravan  of 
<lonkeys — tho  only  animals  they  declared  that  could  travel  hi  that  part 


786 


A  JOURKEY  ROUND  CHINESE  TURKISTAN 


of  the  country.  The  donkeys  supplied  were  certainly  very  fine  speci- 
mens  of  tlieir  kind,  but  it  was  not  long  before  we  found  that  thoy  were 
peculiarly  unsuited  for  the  sort  of  ground  we  had  to  traverse. 

At  the  last  moment  the  Amhan  asked  me  to  allow  him  to  show  me 
some  lux wking  in  the  country- 1  was  going  through,  and  I  unsuspectingly 
consented.  On  I'etiirning  io  Shah  Tar  we  received  a  most  cordial 
welcome  from  the  Mahommedan  Begs  of  the  district,  whose  acqtiaintance 
we  had  made  during  our  former  visit,  and  lost  no  time  in  again  turning 
our  steps  towards  the  river.  We  had  now  heen  juined  by  fifteen  mounted 
men,  with  among  them  nine  hawks  and  two  black  eagles  cjilled  Kara 
Kuflh  or  Birkut.  The  sport  was  interesting^  but  daring  the  second  day 
wo  discovered  that  they  were  conducting  us  by  a  circuitouB  route 
towards  tho  high  road  I  had  been  endeavonring  to  avoid,  and  that  the 
hawkers  were  policemen  in  disguise  with  an  insixsetor  at  their  head,  and 
a  clerk  whoso  duty  it  was  to  make  a  dailj  reijort  of  our  movements  to 
the  Amban  of  Kuchar — in  a  word,  that  wo  were  practically  in  the 
cu8tod3''  of  the  police.  This  undesirable  escort  was  promptly  dismiesGHi. 
To  ray  agreeable  surprise,  they  made  no  difficulty  about  returning,  and 
evidently  looked  on  the  game  as  up  as  soon  as  their  scheme  to  put  tis 
on  the  main  road  had  been  detected  by  the  aid  of  the  compass.  We 
therefore  parted  on  good  terms,  and  1  intrusted  them  with  a  friendly 
message  to  the  Amban,  thanking  him  for  the  sport  I  had  enjoyed.  We 
were  now  once  more  free,  and,  altering  our  course,  soon  reached  the 
bank  of  the  northern  branch  of  the  Tarim,  The  route  hiy  through  a 
swampy  tract  crjvercd  with  high  reeds  and  rushes,  and  entirely  sub- 
merged when  the  Tarim  is  iu  high  flood.  We  found  it  very  difficult 
ground  for  a  caravfin  of  laden  donkeys.  On  the  iiigher  ground  clear  of 
the  marsh,  the  soil  is  a  iine  saline  dust  in  which  tho  foot  sinks  deeply, 
and  it  is  therefore  very  disagree^ible  and  fatiguing  to  walk  on.  The 
goneral  character  of  tho  country  from  Sliah  Yar  to  Kultokmit  Kul,  the 
point  at  which  tho  two  branches  of  the  Tarim  reunite^  is  a  dense  reedy 
swamp  with  occasional  sheets  of  water  in  the  area  reached  by  the  flood- 
waters,  bordered  by  a  desolate  saline  desert. 

The  Ugcn  river  is  not  an  independent  stream,  hut  a  branch  of  the 
Tarim  which  reunites  itself  with  the  main  channel  at  Kultokmit 
KuL  The  Inchiki,  or  threadlike  river,  as  it  is  appropriately  called,  m 
very  narrow  and  deep,  and  flows  between  high  hanks.  It  i&  called  the 
Shah  Yar  river  larthcr  west. 

Up  to  the  midtile  of  Kovember  the  weather  had  been  very  pleasant 
in  camp,  but  the  cold  was  now  rapidly  strengthuning  j  and  1  therefore 
moved  up  to  Karashahr,  intending  to  go  into  winter  quarters  for  a  few 
weeks.  Earashiihr  is  a  poor  and  dirty  town  inhabited  by  Tunganis  and 
Chinese,  with  ntimerDiis  encampments  of  Kalmaks  in  the  vicinity.  The 
Kalmaks  cxposo  their  dead  to  bo  eaten  by  the  ownerless  dogs  which 
swarm  in  the  town ;  and  I  was  tt>ld  that  it  was  no  uncommon  thing  for 


AND  ALONG  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  OF  TIBET. 


737 


living  persons  lying  drunk  on  the  ground  to  be  killed  and  eaten  by  the 
doga.  There  is  no  improhabilit}'  in  the  statement,  as  the  Kalmaks  are 
much  addicted  to  drinking,  I  found  Karashahr  so  unpleasant  a  place  of 
reBJdcnce  that,  as  soon  as  I  had  satisfied  the  requirements  of  politeness 
hy  exc'hangiiig  Yif^its  with  the  local  officials,  I  retraced  my  steps  to 
K.urla»  a  much  larger  aud  cleaner  town,  peopled  by  Turks  who  are  pre- 
ferable as  neighbours  to  the  forward  and  in«|ui3ltiTe  Chinese  and 
Tuuganis.  We  were  immediately  accommodated  in  a  large  and  com- 
fortable house,  and  iililisod  the  halt  in  purchasing  and  equipping  a 
small  caravan  of  ponies,  and  making  preparations  for  the  contemplated 
journey  to  the  south.  I  became  o\vTier  of  15  excellent  baggage- 
ponies,  equjpi>ed  with  bridles,  clothing,  and  other  necessary  gear,  for 
a  little  more  than  Es.  1000,  I  also  arranged  for  43  donkey-loads  of 
Indian  corn  to  be  delivered  at  Fort  Kara  Koshin  in  the  Lob  Nor  district 
as  a  precautionary  meaeurc,  in  the  event  of  supplies  being  difliciilt  to 
obtain  there.  During  our  stay  Dalgleish  dispensed  medicines  of  Avhich 
1  had  brought  a  large  stock,  and  as  he  was  very  succeesful  in  a  few 
cases,  sick  people  froai  the  country  soon  thronged  to  the  house  in  very 
inconvenient  numbers. 

I  left  Kurla  on  the  8th  of  February,  and  after  exploring  the  course  of 
"ihe  river,  which  flows  past  it,  as  far  as  Kdenchi»  struck  down  to  Loh. 
Among  the  Turks  of  the  districts  I  had  hitherto  visited,  and  also 
among  the  Chinese  officials,  the  most  extraordinary  ignorance  prevailed 
regarding  the  Lob  people.  We  had  been  repeatedly  assured  that  they 
were  much  addicted  to  robbery »  and  that  our  horses  would  certainly 
be  stolon,  that  they  were  infidels  who  spoke  an  unknown  language, 
and  generally  a  ver^^  bad  character  was  given  them.  All  this  proved  to 
bo  the  reverse  of  the  truth,  as  they  are  all  Mussulmans,  speaking  Turki, 
and  I  never  so  much  as  heard  of  the  CKJCurrenco  of  a  highway  robbery. 
So  far  as  I  could  see,  the  inhabitants  of  the  Lob  district  are  no  worse 
than  their  neighbonrs,  but  they  are  poorer,  and  this  no  doubt  is  their 
real  crime.  On  the  other  hand,  the  people  of  Lob  are  equally  suspicious 
of  all  strangers^  and  do  all  in  their  power  to  disL'Ourage  their  entrance 
into  the  district.  At  any  rumour  of  an  outbreak  of  small-pox,  a 
disease  they  much  dread,  in  Kurla  or  its  neigh boiirhood,  the  road  is 
at  once  closed  to  all*  It  was  now  closed  on  account  of  a  virulent  form 
of  sorethroat  which  had  caused  much  mortality  at  Kurla  ;  but  a  special 
exception  was  made  in  our  favour,  partly  no  doubt  from  ilie  reputation 
which  Dalgleish  had  acquired  as  a  doctor.  A  short  time  previously  I 
had  found  it  necessaty  to  abandon  an  intention  of  paying  a  flying  visit 
to  Kuldja  by  direct  route  from  Karashahr,  because  the  road  had  been 
closed  by  the  Kalmaks  as  a  precaution  against  the  introduction  of 
small-pox. 

Tho  Lob  frontier  station  is  Xultokmit  Kul.     In  general  character  the 
country  was  similar  to  that  we  had  seen  so  much  of  on  the  banks  of  the 


738 


A  JOUli.XEY  ROUND  CHINESE  TUKKISTAN 


I'd  with  reeds  and  high  coarsa 


Tarim  higher  up — swampy  ground  c 
grass,  but  we  now  had  a  ^octd  and  c^asy  load,  as  everything  was  frozen 
hard.  In  warm  weather  a  circuitons  roail  over  the  sand  hills  which 
fringe  the  swamp  would  have  to  bo  taken. 

Js'asir  Hakim  Bt%  tho  principal  officer  of  the  dmtriet,  aeoompamed 
tis  from  Kultokmit  Knl  to  his  residence  at  Kirchin,  where  we  were 
hospilahly  entertained.  He  assembled  40  or  50  horBemen  dnring  my 
stay  to  beat  for  tigers  whicli  had  lately  killed  several  of  the  villagers' 
cattle.  We  saw  one  which  had  lain  up  on  the  ice  in  i\iG  high  reeils  near 
a  cow  it  had  killed,  and  on  hearing  the  noise  made  by  tho  horse's  feet, 
aacendod  a  low  mound  of  sand  at  a  distance  of  abont  one-third  of  a  mile 
from  ua  to  see  what  was  comiug.  It  was  forthwith  hotly  pursued  over 
tho  ice  hy  the  whole  troop,  hut  ineffectually,  as  it  w^as  not  seen  a^ain. 
From  Kirchin  a  roiid  runs  across  the  desert  to  Turfan,  the  district  to 
which  Lob  is  administratively  atttiched,  the  Hakim  Beg  being  snb- 
ordinate  to  the  Amban  of  Torfan, 

Tho  nearer  we  approached  the  Great  Lake,  tho  stronger  grew  the 
evidence  of  the  miserable  poverty  of  the  district.  Chaklik  is  the  only 
place  where  we  saw  cultivation,  and  tho  only  manufacture  appears  to 
be  a  kind  of  coarf:e  cloth  or  sacking  made  from  tho  libre,  resembling  flax 
of  a  plant  called  "  chigh.**  Apart  from  their  sheep,  the  people  depend 
main]y  for  subsistence  upon  fish,  and  on  the  ducks  and  wild  fowls  whieh 
visit  the  lake  in  enormous  numbers  at  the  time  of  the  annual  migrations. 
In  return  for  the  few  imported  goods  they  require,  they  barter  sheep, 
the  sacking  above  referred  to,  and  tho  skins  of  otters,  foxes,  and  wild 
swans.  During  the  summer  months,  largo  parties  of  them  move  off  into 
the'mountains  to  obtain  1  tetter  pasture  for  their  sheep  and  C4ittle,  whilo 
avoiding  the  mosquitoes  and  other  insects  which  abound  neiir  the  luke, 
and  also  to  shoot  }ak  and  wild  assea  for  the  sake  of  their  hides. 

Besides  the  natives  of  Lob,  a  small  settlement  of  Khoten  people, 
forming  a  distinct  quarter  of  tho  village,  is  established  at  Chaklik. 
They  remain  under  the  juiisdiction  of  the  Amban  of  Kiria,  and  are  not 
under  the  Amban  of  Turfan.  Thoy  are  said  to  be  refugees  from 
Charchand,  a  place  to  which  bad  characters  from  the  Khoten  dihtrict 
used  formerly  to  l>e  banished.  Thoy  are  much  smarter  and  more 
energetic  than  the  Lob  people  proper,  and  make  long  journeys  into  the 
monntaius  in  search  of  gold.  It  need  hardly  bo  said  that  there  is  a 
standing  feud  between  them  and  the  other  inhabitants  of  the  village, 

I  now  experienced  the  advantage  of  possessiug  a  small  caravan  of  my 
own  and  a  supply  of  grain.  Had  1  been  dependent  on  local  supplies,  I 
should  have  been  obliged  to  pay  very  exorbitant  rates  fur  everything 
required,  and  in  all  probability,  should  have  failed  altogether  to  make 
the  arrangements  neceasaTy  for  a  long  march.  But  when  tho  people 
saw  my  baggage-ponies  and  tho  large  stock  of  grain  I  had  brought  from 
Kurla,  and  purchased  from  the  Hakim  Beg  at  Ivirchin,  they  modornted 


AND  ALONG  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  OF  TIBET. 


739 


their  demands,  and  I  was  able  to  obtain  additional  stores  and  hired 
baj>gage-ariiinals  at  rates  not  more  than  three  times  aa  high  as  those 
iniliog  at  Kiirla. 

(/haklik  is  now  a  mere  viUage,  but,  fioiii  ih^  ruins  of  an  old  town 
wall  still  distinctly  traceable,  it  would  appear  to  have  beeiL  a  more 
important  place  at  some  former  time.  The  old  high  road  from  Khoten 
to  China  probably  passeii  by  it,  altbongli  tbero  is  now  no  intercourse 
between  Lob  and  Sachu,  the  road  being  entirely  disused,  A  Chines© 
official  from  the  Governor-General  at  Uramtsi,  who  visited  Cbaklik 
during  my  stay  there^  was  very  anxious  to  go  over  the  road  and  report 
on  it,  but  could  get  nob<>dy  to  point  it  out  to  biiii,  no  doubt  becauso 
there  was  little  probability  of  any  payment  for  the  guido  being  forth- 
coming.  The  Mandarin  aftervi^ards  came  to  my  tent  to  ask  for  informa- 
tion, and  was  shown  the  direction  in  which  Sachu  lay,  and  tohl  the 
distance.  ILid  I  wished  to  go  to  iSiichu,  I  should  Iiave  found  no  difficulty 
in  procuring  a  competent  guide  on  pajmient 

A  direct  road  runa  from  Chaklik  to  Kuchar,  vu\  Jigda  Bashlam. 

The  weather  during  December,  January,  and  February,  though  very 
cold,  had  been  calm,  clear,  and  fine;  in  March  the  cold  was  less  severe, 
but  high  w^inds  with  frequent  dust-storms  prevailed  and  continued 
throughout  April.     Frosts  ceased  in  the  second  week  of  April. 

My  preparations  being  complete,  I  struck  camp  on  the  29th  of  that 
month,  and  started  for  a  pass  over  the  Altun  Tagh  moim tains  by  whicli 
1  should  be  able  to  reach  the  road  from  Abdal,  used  by  the  Kalmaks  of 
Karaahahr  when  travelling  into  Tibet,  Our  march  wan  at  first  over 
the  strip  of  barren  land  lietween  the  lake  and  the  mountains,  but  after 
crossing  the  backbone  of  the  range  at  the  Tash  Dawan,  or  stony  pass, 
the  coantrv^  much  imxiroved  and  gfx^d  patches  of  grazing  were  met  with. 
This  was  followed  ly  another  l)arrcn  tract  at  point»  in  which,  near  the 
TJgen  Shor  plain,  footprints  of  wild  camels  were  conspicuous ;  and  wo 
then  found  ourselves  at  Bagh  Tokni,  where  a  halt  was  made  in  a  large 
j>atch  of  cscellent  ]nisture-land  for  the  benefit  of  the  Imgguge-animals. 
Tho  guide  Abdul  la  and  donkeymen  engaged  at  Chaklik  hero  became 
troublesome,  and  demanded  that  we  should  turn  back,  or  at  least  go  no 
farther  in  a  southeni  direction.  Though  it  was  very  inconvenient  to 
]>art  with  them  so  soon,  I  feared  that  discontent  might  spread  to  my  own 
Kervanta  and  the  donkeymen  engaged  at  Kurla  if  I  pressed  them  to  go 
farther.  They  were  therefore  dismissed  in  disgrace.  As  soon  as  they 
«aw  that  I  had  no  intention  of  turning  back  they  became  verj^  humble 
mid  begged  to  be  kejit  on,  but  I  tirought  it  better  not  to  consent  to  this, 
as  the  same  thing  would  almost  certainly  have  happened  again  a  few  days 
later.  I  therefore  iosisted  on  their  forthwith  moving  off  from  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  my  camp,  retaining  only  one  man  who  had  been  engaged  as 
a  guide  from  the  Kboteni  section  of  the  village  and  had  not  joined  the 
malcontents.     This  involved  our  making  ver^'  short  marches  for  some 


740 


A  JOURNET  ROUND  CHINESE  TURKISTAN 


days,  and  s&udiug  Lack  somo  of  the  animalB  for  a  portioa  of  the  storeBy^l 
aa  witli  our  reduced  transport  all  could  not  be  carried  at  once. 

We  crossed  the  Chiman  Tagh  range  of  moiiu tains  by  the  Amban 
Achkan  Pass.  The  view  to  the  south  from  the  top  of  the  pass  Bhowod  us 
a  wide  plain  with  a  good  deal  of  water  about  it,  and  another  formidable 
range  of  SDowy  mountains  beyond  in  the  distance.  A  big  lake  called 
the  Chong  Knm  Kul  stretebed  away  to  the  west  farther  than  we  could 
see,  and  a  large  river  flowed  down  the  plain  from  east  to  west,  emptying 
itaelf  into  the  lake.  On  descending  we  found  that  the  plain  was  a  huge 
morass  which  could  not  possibly  be  crossed  by  our  baggage-animals,  and 
we  therefore  had  to  follow  the  right  bank  of  the  river  for  some  forty 
miles  to  the  eust  before  a  place  for  crossing  could  be  fouod.  The  Kalmaks» 
who  nsually  leave  Abdal  in  May  and  return  from  Lhassa  in  February  or 
March,  are  able  to  cross  this  plain  when  homeward-bound  in  the  winter, 
but  are  obliged  in  summer  to  make  a  circuit  to  avoid  the  morass. 

The  weather  now  boeamo  very  cold,  with  frequent  fenowstorms,  while 
the  gi*as8  was  so  scanty  and  poor  as  to  cause  us  much  anxiety.  After 
a  few  days,  during  which  the  evident  doubt  aud  uncertainty  of  our 
remainiTig  guide  were  somewhat  disquieting,  we  attempted  the  passage 
of  the  Kuen  Lun  range.  Our  guide  bad  often  assured  us  that  the  pass  • 
waa  au  easy  one,  that  he  was  well  acquainted  with  it,  and  that  on 
reaching  the  top  we  should  see  another  wide  plain  before  us  intersected 
by  the  Kizil  Su  or  Ma  Chu  river.  However,  he  now  was,  or  appeared  to 
be,  completely  at  fault,  and  after  some  hours  of  marching  conducted  us 
to  the  brink  of  a  mighty  precipice.  Then  with  dramatic  action  be  threw 
his  sheepskin  cap  on  the  ground,  struck  himself  twice  on  the  forehead, 
sat  down  and  wept  aloud.  Wo  begged  him  to  compose  himself  and  try 
again,  but  it  was  unavailing ;  he  could  only  rei>eat  that  he  had  quite  lost 
the  way,  and  did  not  kntjw  where  the  pass  was. 

As  soon  as  the  tents  had  been  pitched,  I  started  to  ascend  a  high 
peak  near  us  from  which  a  good  view  over  the  country  could  be  obtained, 
but  the  prospect  on  reaching  the  summit  after  a  stiff  climb  was  most 
dishearteDing,  There  was  no  indication  of  any  broad  plain  or  any 
opening  likely  to  lead  to  a  pass,  but  a  panorama  of  veiy  lofty  snow-clad 
mountains  at  least  50  or  60  miles  deep  was  alone  visible,  and  presented 
to  all  appearance  a  quite  insurmountable  barrier  to  our  further  progress 
southwards.  After  carefully  considering  the  position,  I  decided  to  turn 
to  the  east  and  keep  along  tho  foot  of  the  range  until  an  opening  was 
found.  This  also  we  found  to  be  impossible,  as  the  valley  was  abso- 
lutely sterile,  being  not  only  bare  of  vegetation,  but  without  argals  to 
Kcrve  as  fuel.  At  tho  end  of  three  days,  and  after  being  comi>elled  to 
burn  the  ri^lge-pole  of  one  of  our  tents,  we  struck  through  the  mountaina 
to  the  north  in  search  of  grass  to  save  the  lives  of  the  animals,  and 
happily  found  a  leas  barren  valley  which  brought  us  to  a  place  called 
Bokalik,  at  which  the  people,  who  later  in  the  year  came  from  Khoten 


AXD  ALONG  THE  XORTHEnN  FKOXTIER  OF  TIBET. 


741 


and  Charclian  to  dig  for  gold,  maintain  a  sort  of  standing  camp,  leaving 
their  baggage-animals  to  graze  here  while  they  push  on  to  tho  gold- 
fields  eaid  to  lie  at  a  distance  of  about  50  miles  to  the  south.  No  ono 
had  yet  arrived.  We  now  sent  the  K.hoten  guide  back  to  his  home  at 
Chaklik,  as  he  could  ht>  <jf  no  farther  yso,  and  was  another  mouth  to  be 
filled  from  our  diminishing  stores. 

The  Bokalik  valley  is  a  continuation  of  the  swampy  valley  we  had 
entered  after  crossing  tho  Amban  Achkao  Pass,  though  separated  some- 
where by  a  riJge,  as  the  water  was  now  flowing  east  instead  of  west. 
Our  failure  to  find  the  pass  to  the  sotith,  if  one  exists,  was  a  great  mis- 
fortune, as  the  baggage-animals  suficred  severely  from  tho  total  absence 
of  forage,  and  the  men  too  had  been  senously  alarmed  by  the  uncer- 
tainty of  the  road,  and  the  uninviting  aspect  of  the  countiy.  Their 
confiiience  was  now  thoroughly  shaken,  and  a  quiet  but  constant  and 
strict  watch  on  them  bad  in  future  to  be  kept  to  pre%'ent  any  imprudence 
on  their  part. 

A  good  deal  of  snow,  hail,  and  rain  fell  while  wo  were  in  this  valley. 

About  17  miles  below  liokalik  avo  crossed  a  river  flowing  down  from 
the  Kuen  Ltin  range,  with  a  bed  about  J  mile  wide.  The  water  was 
of  a  deep  brick-red  colour,  and  fell  into  tho  river  in  the  centre  of  tho 
valley  which  was  now  a  very  considerable  stream*  Alxmt  50  mile.s  from 
liokalik  this  river  turned  ofi"  to  the  north  thruogh  an  opening  in  the 
Cliiman  Tagh  range,  leaving  us  again  in  soine  perplexity  as  to  the 
direction  in  which  our  march  ought  to  be  continued.  I  had  mad©  up 
my  mind  to  work  as  straight  as  iiossible  across  country  to  tho  Nuichi 
valley,  where  we  hoped  1o  find  an  encampment  of  nomads  and  good 
pasturage  for  the  animals  now  reduced  to  little  more  thansldn  and  bone. 
But  we  had  no  guide,  and  were  directing  our  course  ontiroly  by  compass 
and  sextant,  as  the  map  for  all  this  region  shows  a  blank  space.  Before 
going  further  we  determined  to  halt  and  explore  a  little  l>oth  to  north 
and  south,  Dalgleish  followiug  tho  river  while  1  endeavoured  to  find  a 
w^ay  through  the  mountaice  to  the  south,  Dalgleish  found  traces  of 
Mongol  camps,  ami  a  well-marked  path  which  at  one  point  was  entirely 
blocked  by  a  fall  of  the  mountain,  making  pasmge  impossible  without 
crossing  and  recrossing  the  stream — at  this  time  of  year  quite  un  ford  able. 
On  the  other  hand  I  found  no  insuperable  obstacle  to  our  crossing  the 
mountains  to  the  south.  In  point  of  fact  we  were  no  great  distance 
from  Ilajjar,  the  resilience  of  the  Chief  of  the  Thaichinar  Mongols. 
But  in  the  map  which  accompanies  Pandit  A— — -lis  explorations,  this 
place  is  shown  about  (iO  miles  to  the  north-east  of  its  real  position,  and 
apparently  farther  from  us  than  Xaichi.  We  therefore  pushed  on  in 
the  direction  of  tho  latter  place,  the  road  rapidly  rising  and  bringing 
us  into  a  very  barren  region.  Snow  fell  on  several  days  and  lay  on  the 
ground.  Eventually  we  crossed  a  pass  whieli,  though  it  presented  no 
difficulty,  was  very  trying  to  our  exhausted  animals,  and  entered  a  wide 


742 


A  JODRNET  ROUND  CHINESE  TURKISTAN 


Yalley  containing  numerous  lakes  and  mucli  swampy  ground.  Hail  or 
snow  fell  almost  every  day,  and  oppression  of  brea tiling  was  severely 
felt  by  nearly  all  of  us. 

It  was  now  of  importance  to  ascertain  our  exact  position,  for  although 
we  know  thut  we  were  somewhere  about  tlio  latitude  of  Naiehi,  we  had 
no  means  of  iixirig  our  lougitmle,  and  with  every  confidence  in 
Dalgleish's  c^re  and  skill  as  a  navigator,  it  was  impoesiblo  not  to  feel 
that  we  might  l>o  much  further  from  Naichi  than  his  dead  reckoning 
fehowed  us  to  he.  For  80  diiys  wo  had  not  seen  a  single  human  being 
outside  the  ciiravan,  and  my  men  were  naturally  gloomy  and  dispirited, 
I  find  no  fault  with  them  for  this,  as  there  was  good  ground  for  tbeir 
distrust,  and  they  had  had  much  discomfort  and  hard  work;  while  all 
our  luxurieM  having  long  since  been  exhausted,  tlonr,  tea,  and  such  meat 
as  I  could  get  b}"  shooting  was  the  sole  ration.  All  through  this  march 
the  wild  animals  were  miserably  lean  and  poor.  They  too  had  suffered 
from  the  scarcity  of  grazing.  But  our  most  serious  anxiety  was  on 
account  of  the  state  of  the  baggage-animals,  now  only  able  tu  make  very 
short  marches  with  great  difficulty.  When,  therefore,  on  the  20th  July 
wo  suddenly  came  on  unmistakable  marks  o(  human  feet  on  the  soft 
earth— even  the  most  impassive  members  of  our  little  company  were 
somewhat  excited,  while  the  impulsive  Turks  threw  themselves  on  the 
ground,  kissed  the  footprints,  and  sobbed  with  delight.  There  were  no 
more  downcast  looks  now,  ami  soon  all  in  the  highest  spirits  were  busily 
engaged  in  pitching  the  tents  on  a  spot  where  the  camp-fires  of  the 
party  before  ua  were  still  warm.  Our  neighbours  wore  pilgrims,  several 
hundreds  in  numbers,  from  the  provinces  to  the  cast  of  Kukonor,  who 
WQTG  marchiog  in  three  detachments  to  Lhassa.  All  carried  arms  of 
some  kind,  and  were  in  great  dread  of  a  band  of  robbers  believed  to  be 
lurking  iu  the  vicinity.  Wo  were  now  able  to  verify  our  jjosition,  and 
found  that  we  were  betw^een  the  Euen  Lun  and  Khokosili  ranges,  and 
just  south  of  the  Angirtaksbia  Pass,  Our  position  was  indeed  very 
nearly  what  we  bad  su])poiaed  it  to  be,  though  but  for  the  fortunate  acci- 
dent of  the  pilgrim  caravan^  only  one  or  two  of  which  go  down  this 
road  annually  I  having  crossed  the  plain  a  day  before  us,  we  sliould  un- 
doubtedly have  ])ushod  further  on  down  the  valley,  and  so  missed  the 
Naichi  valley  and  the  road  to  the  south. 

Wo  now  turned  our  steps  north%vard  to  Naichi,  not  without  much 
reluctance  and  misgiving  on  my  part,  as  the  best  season  of  the  year  for 
travclliu<T  was  couimencing,  but  it  was  an  absolute  necessity  to  obtain 
fresh  stores,  and  to  rest  and  feed  up  botli  animals  and  men.  The 
Angirtaksbia  Pass  presented  no  difficulty  whatever,  but  the  Naichi  Pass 
six  miles  further  on  was  steep  and  trying  to  our  exhaii8t**d  baggage- 
animals.  When  covered  with  ice  and  snow  it  must  be  very  difficult 
indeed.  The  number  of  wild  animals  in  the  neighbourhood  of  these 
was   surpiiaing;   antelopes  were  incredibly  numerous,  and  we 


AND  ALOXG  THE  NORTH£KN  FRONTIER  OF  TIBLT. 


743 


L 


also  saw  herds  of  yak  and  kiang  (wild  aeses).  A  few  miles  of  easy 
descent  brought  us  on  the  25th  July  to  Amthuo,  a  campiDg-groiind  in 
the  Naichi  valley  with  good  grazing,  plenty  of  firewood  and  water  from 
the  Naichi  Gol  close  at  hand.  Tliere  were  no  inhabitants,  owing 
apparently  lo  fear  of  robherst  and  two  days  later  I  left  Balgleish  in 
charge  of  the  camp»  and  started  for  Golmo  in  eearch  of  stores  with  one 
Tartar  and  two  Turkish  servants.  One  of  the  latter,  a  Kalmak  who 
had  embraeed  the  Mahomniedan  faith,  spoke  the  Mongolian  language. 
The  road  down  the  valley  is  difficult  in  summer  from  the  depth  of  water 
in  the  river  and  the  badness  of  the  fords.  I  therefore  made  my  way 
across  the  inonntains  by  the  Sosani  Pass,  which  is  steep  and  stony,  and 
would  be  quite  impracticable  when  covered  with  snow.  On  emerging 
from  the  Kutn  Lnn  Range,  a  barren  satidy  desert  lay  before  us,  but 
f(*l lowing  the  eonrse  of  a  stream  called  Tura  Gol,  and  keeping  to  the 
foot  of  the  mountains,  we  reached  a  very  desolate-looking  piece  of 
jungle.  The  ground  here  was  saline  and  treacherous  in  many  places.  A 
narrow  f»>otpath  leads  through  it  which  cannot  be  quitted  except  under 
penalty  of  sinking  deep  in  a  fetid  quagmire  from  which  animals  can 
only  be  extricated  with  great  difficulty.  Beyond  this  the  pasture 
grounds  of  the  Thaichinarnomads  appeared  in  view  thickly  dotted  over 
with  felt  tente,  and  wo  pitched  our  tiny  camp  in  the  midst  of  them. 
After  some  delay,  owing  to  the  male  population  at  that  time  of  day  (lato 
in  the  afternoon)  being  mostly  in  a  state  of  intoxication,  I  commenced 
negotiations  for  the  purchase  of  stores.  Sheep  and  butter  w^ere  readilv 
supplied,  but  barley  and  eatu  (meal  made  by  grindiug  parched  barley) 
could  only  be  obtained  in  very  small  quantities  and  with  much  difficulty. 
There  are  no  traders  among  these  Mongols,  each  family  get*!  from  Kborlu 
once  a  year  a  supply  of  barley  sufficient  for  its  own  requirements,  and 
does  not  care  to  sell  any  part  of  it.  Moreover,  stooks  were  low  as  the 
harvest  time  was  approaching.  The  people  seemed  quite  unaccustomed 
to  money  transactions,  and  liargains  were  only  made  with  a  good  deal 
of  trouble.  Had  I  brought  with  me  a  stock  of  goods  for  barter,  «i2ch  as 
tea  and  cloth,  matters  would  have  been  much  simplified.  A  part}-  of 
Lamas  gathering  contributions  for  the  great  monastery  at  Kumbum 
-were  encamped  here  on  my  arrival.  They  had  already  collected  several 
hundreds  of  horses  and  camels,  a  few  horned  cattle,  and  some  thousands 
of  sheep  and  goats. 

Finding  there  was  no  chance  of  obtaining  barley,  I  determined,  on 
the  advice  of  the  Mongols,  to  move  on  to  Bhaga  Tsaidam,  taking  tlio 
road  np  the  valley  as  far  as  Thugthe,  and  then  striking  across  the  salt- 
waste  to  the  north.  The  heat  on  the  salt-plain  was  great,  and  the 
ground  being  soft,  and  often  covere<l  w^ith  two  or  tbreo  inches  of 
saturated  brine,  was  most  trying  to  the  ponies,  one  of  w^hich  died,  and 
1  he  others  were  much  exhausted.  Beyond,  a  rough  path  through  the 
hills  soon  brought  us  to  the  lake  of  Bhaga  Tsaidam,  about  six  milcn 


744  A  JOLTRNEY  RO0ND  CHINESE  TUREISTAN 

long,  wliicb  is  strongly  impregnated  with  salt.  Ilere  we  found 
abundant  signs  of  a  recent  large  encampment  of  nomads,  but  in  con- 
sequence, a&  we  subsequently  learned,  of  tbe  occurrence  of  a  case  of 
Bm all-pox,  they  bad  dispersed  themselves  over  tbe  country.  Tbis  waa 
inconvenient  for  reckoninp;  with  certainty  on  being  able  to  procure 
food  at  Bbaga  Tsaidam  ;  I  bad  brought  with  me  only  a  very  small 
supply,  which  was  already  exhatihtetl.  I  now  sent  the  two  Turks  back 
to  Golmo,  and  started  with  the  faithful  Tartar,  Dogpa,  for  IToiduthara. 
Tbe  road  was  rough  and  the  horses  had  both  cast  shoes,  we  were  there- 
fore obliged  to  Tjviilk  and  go  very  slowly. 

I  cannot  refrain  from  here  recording  an  act  of  great  and  unsolicited 
kindness  shown  us  at  this  time  by  a  young  Lama  who  was  travelling  in 
company  of  a  Chinaman  towards  Khorln,  Observing  our  exhausted 
condition,  bo  hastened  on  to  Hoiduthara,  borrowed  a  pony,  and  immcf* 
diatcly  rode  10  miles  back  to  meet  tis  with  fowb  With  joyful  sboutij 
be  first  thrust  into  my  hands  a  bag,  made  of  the  paunch  of  a  sheep,  full 
of  water,  then  another  small  hag  containing  satu,  and  a  third  containing 
chura.  A\'o  had  then  been  almost  without  food  for  four  days,  and  as 
may  be  supposed,  never  enjoyed  a  meal  more.  Considering  that  we 
were  strangers  and  quite  ignorant  of  the  Mongolian  language,  and  that 
our  ragged  and  travel-stained  appearance  was  not  calculated  to  excite 
hop€B  of  much  Iteing  forthcoming  in  the  way  of  reward,  I  was  greatly 
touched  by  this  kindness  siiown  to  us  at  a  moment  of  sore  need. 

There  was  a  good  strip  of  country  under  barley  at  IToiduthara,  but  , 
only  servants  were  in  charge,  as  the  farmers  had  gone  off  into  the 
moimtains  with  their  flocks  and  herds  to  avoid  the  beat.  The  Mongols 
are  a  pastoral  people,  and  look  on  agriculture  as  an  inferior  occupation 
which  may  be  left  entirely  to  servants,  I  have  never  seen  more  careless 
farming.  No  attempt  at  weeding  is  ever  made,  and  in  many  fields  the 
crop  of  weeds  is  larger  than  that  of  barley.  The  only  field  work  needed 
at  the  time  of  my  visit  was  the  management  of  the  irrigation,  and  tbis 
was  attended  to  by  labourers  on  horseback,  who  used  a  long  stick  to 
make  openings  in  the  channels,  and  bo  saved  themselves  the  trouble  of 
frequently  dismoontiug,  JMongolians  seem  quite  incapable  of  walking; 
a  woman  will  get  on  a  pony  to  go  200  yards  from  ber  tent  to  milk  her 
goats,  and  I  noticed  that  men  who  w^ere  far  too  drunk  to  walk,  or  even 
to  stand,  seemed  quite  safe  as  soon  as  they  had  licen  lifted  on  to  their 
horses. 

The  ctiltivators  are  prohil>ited  from  selling  their  grain  by  the  Bosi 
or  Chief  of  Khorlu,  who  takes  his  revenue  in  kind,  and  claims  the  right 
to  sell  as  much  as  ho  sees  fit  from  his  own  stores  before  any  one  else  can 
sell  at  all.  All  purchastjrs  have  therefore  to  present  themselves  before 
him  in  the  first  instance.  He  had  just  started  to  pay  a  visit  to  the 
Wang  or  bead  of  the  Mongols  of  this  part  of  the  country  at  Dulankit, 
not  far  from  the  Kokonor  Lake.     I  therefore  engaged  horses  and  set  off 


AKD  ALOKG  THE  KORTHERK  FRONTIER  OF  TIBET, 


745 


at  once  in  purfiuit.  Fortunately  his  camp  for  the  day  was  in  the  hills 
at  Choko,  only  35  niilee  distant.  I  was,  in  the  first  instance,  conducted 
to  a  large  felt  tent,  which  did  dnty  as  an  antcchaml>cr,  %vith  a  fije  in 
the  middle,  on  which  stood  a  pan  containing  tbreo  or  four  gallons  of 
boiling  teftj  while  sacks  of  satn  and  chura  and  a  wooden  bowl  of  butter 
Btood  near  the  door.  All  comers  helped  them  selves  freely  to  these 
delicacies.  Several  sheep's  tails  were  twisted  into  the  lattice- work  of 
the  tent,  from  which  Visitors  who  preferred  it  to  butter  cut  off  pieces  of 
fat  from  time  to  time,  and  ate  them  apparently  imcooked.  Afterwards 
the  Besi  aud  bis  wife,  both  in  full  dress,  received  me  in  their  big  tent, 
he  wearing  his  official  bat  aud  robes  and  button  as  a  noble  of  the  Chinese 
Empire.  The  ceutit?  of  the  tent  was  occupied  by  two  young  women 
engaged  in  kneading  a  large  piece  of  dougb.  After  an  amusing  inter- 
view, the  Besi  gave  me  an  order  for  barley,  though  not  fur  the  full 
quantity  I  required,  but  refused  baggage-animals  to  carry  it  to  Naichi 
on  the  ground  that  at  this  hot  time  of  the  year  they  would  die  on  the 
road.  Tie  also  objected  to  cross  the  TLaichinar  valley  to  Tfl^aichi,  because 
it  was  beyond  his  jurisdiction*  It  was  impossible  to  induce  him  to  yield 
on  this  point.  There  was  indeed  a  good  deal  of  force  in  hia  objections, 
as  the  Mongols  never  do  take  laden  animals  in  the  summer  time  across 
the  salt-plain,  where  no  fresh  water  can  be  got  for  long  distances* 

At  Hoiduthara  there  waB  a  Gompa  or  monastery  of  about  150 
Buddhist  priests  and  acolytes,  located  as  is  usual  among  the  Mongols  in 
a  large  fejt  tent,  A  Lama,  who  paid  me  a  visit,  infornn^d  me  that  the 
Gompa  was  going  to  change  campj  and  that  many  of  the  priests  would 
probably  be  willing  to  sell  their  stock  of  mixed  satu  and  chura  (butter- 
milk boiled  down  to  a  powder)  collected,  a  handful  at  a  time,  by  begging 
from  tent  to  tent.  I  at  once  authorised  bim  to  announce  that  I  would 
buy  all  they  brought  me,  and  next  day  I  was  busily  engaged  in  purchas- 
ing the  offerings  of  the  faithful,  which  were  brought  down  by  the  priests 
in  small  quantitien  ranging  from  five  pannds  to  half  a  pound.  In  the 
afternoon  the  monastery  t<^rnt  was  struck,  and  the  stream  of  monks  came 
to  an  end. 

I  now  started  with  Dogpa  for  Tenkalik,  in  the  hope  of  being  able  to 
make  further  purchaser,  easily  finding  my  way  by  the  light  of  Pandit 
A,*— E.^B  deecription  of  the  route.  At  Chakangnamaga,  a  grazing 
ground  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Thosu-Nur  Lake,  I  again  met 
the  Lamas  returning  to  Eumbum,  whom  I  bad  previously  seen  at  Golmo, 
They  seemed  much  pleased  at  the  meetings  insisted  on  unloading  my 
two  ponies,  pitching  mj  tent  for  mo,  and  regaling  me  with  richly- 
bt^ttered  tea. 

At  Tenkalifc  I  succeeded  in  purchasing  some  barley,  and  returned  to 
Harmugan  Namaga,  near  Golmo,  where  I  rejoined  Dalgleish  and  the 
camp  after  an  absence  of  thirty-seven  days.  The  road  up  the  valley 
lay  through  thick  jungle,  with  many  bushes  of  a  sbrub  called  *'  barmo  " 


L 


746 


A  JOURNEY  ROUND  CHINESE  TURKISTAN 


b 


l>earing  "berries,  reeombling  red  and  black  currants,  but  with  little 
sweetness  or  taste.  Horse-flieifs  Bwarm  at  this  time  to  such  an  extent 
that  the  Mongols  have  tu  drive  off  their  ponies  nml  cattle  from  some  of 
the  best  pastureB.  A  snperior  official  had  now  arrived  ut  Harmugaa 
Xaman  from  llajjar,  and  it  was  soun  apparent  that  we  must  not  expeotj 
any  assistance  towards  further  exploration  to  the  south*  This  was 
shown  bj  the  people  declaring  tbem&elvea  unable  either  to  grind  some 
of  the  barley  for  us  or  to  lend  ns  the  hanti'mills  reqnired,  I,  there f< ire, 
did  not  waste  time  by  asking  for  a  guide,  but  started  at  ooco  with  Dal- 
gleish  and  two  servants — a  Tartar  and  a  Turk^-and  suppbes  for  about 
a  month,  to  see  as  much  of  the  road  to  the  south  as  jioasible.  The  other 
tervants  and  spare  baggage  were  left  in  charge  of  the  Mongol  official. 

Snow  had  already  commenced  to  fall  on  the  hills,  and  we  soon  found 
that  the  ponies,  though  improved  in  condition,  were  still  quite  unfit  for 
a  long  and  hard  marcb»  By  tbo  time  I  bad  reached  the  Clm-Ma  river, 
at  the  foot  of  the  Khokosili  raountains»  I  was  driven  to  the  conclusion 
that  all  thought  of  going  further  must  be  abandoned.  My  leave  would 
expire  in  the  fallowing  May^  and  if,  as  I  had  every  reason  to  anticipate,  my 
onward  progress  was  stopjKHl  by  the  first  official  of  the  Lbassa  Govern^ 
raent  I  met*  I  should  find  myself  unal^u  to  return  befure  the  spring,  as 
the  ponies  would  not  be  fi^t  for  the  march  hack  without  a  rest,  and  in 
the  meantime  the  passes  to  the  north  would  be  closed.  If  this  had 
happened  I  could  not  possibly  have  reached  India  until  many  months 
after  the  end  of  my  leave.  There  was,  therefore^  no  option  hjjt  to  turn 
liack  at  once,  to  my  very  great  regret. 

From  the  imposeibility  of  obtaining  trustworthy  information  or  a 
competent  guide  before  leaving  Chaklik,  I  had  unavoidably  lost  much 
time.  Had  I  to  make  the  journey  over  again,  I  should  start  from 
Charehand,  instead  of  Chakhk,  whence  Bagh  Tokai  is  reacbt^d  by  a 
good  road  in  twelve  days,  then  cross  the  Amban  Achkan  Pass,  and  follow 
the  valley  eoutli  of  the  Chi  man  Tagh  Range  past  Bokalik  to  Bulantai. 
From  that  point  I  eliould  make  as  straight  as  possible  for  the  Naichi 
valley,  where  a  stay  of  some  duration  would  be  necessary  to  rest  tho 
baggage-animals.  During  tho  halt  sheep,  butter,  and  such  other 
supplies  as  were  procurable  from  Golmo  might  be  sent  for.  Then  the 
journey  to  the  south  might  he  resumed  with  a  caravan  in  good  marching 
order. 

About  80  miles  from  Harmtigan  Namaga  we  reached  Hajjar,  the 
residence  of  the  Jhasa  or  chief  of  the  Thaichinar  Mongols,  The  road 
lay  through  a  miserable  country,  mostly  desert  and  in  parts  covered  with 
a  saline  efflorescence,  I  had  now  seen  prott/  nearly  the  whole  of 
Thaichinar,  and  found  it  almost  as  poor  as  the  Lob  district*  As  a 
pasture-ground  tho  Naiehi  valley  is  far  superior  to  any  otLer  part  of  the 
tract  of  country  under  tho  Jhasa's  jurisdiction,  but  it  has  the  disadvan- 
tage of  being  too  frequently  visited  by  bands  of  robbers.     A  march  of 


* 


n 


AND  ALONG  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  OF  TIBET.  747 

^about  90  miles  from  Hajjar  over  an  uneven,  barren,  and  desolate  country, 
with  occasional  beds  of  salt,  brought  us  to  Makhai,  the  pasture-ground 
of  a  small  settlement  of  nomads,  and  after  travelling  about  50  miles 
farther  over  similar  country,  and  crossing  a  low  range  of  hills  by  a  pass 
called  Eotuli-la,  we  reached  the  Obo  or  shrine  in  the  Saithang  plain 
where  there  is  a  large  nomad  camp.  At  the  end  of  another  100  miles, 
we  arrived  at  Sachu  with  a  Chinese  population. 

The  Mongols  are  a  timid  people  and  very  poor.  But  I  found  them 
friendly  and  hospitable,  and  received  from  them  many  acts  of  kindness. 
They  are  extremely  suspicious  and  troublesome  to  deal  with  in  any 
matter  of  business,  such  as  the  purchase  of  stores.  Being  constantly 
oheated  by  the  Chinese,  they  cannot  believe  that  any  one  can  mean  to 
<lcal  fairly  by  them,  and  an  immediate  assent  to  their  terms  or  any 
liberal  offer  seemed  to  have  the  effect  of  doubling  their  suspicions,  and 
causing  them  to  raise  some  fresh  obstacle.  The  town  of  Sachu  is 
situated  in  a  small  but  fertile  oasis.  It  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Danga  Gol  river,  which  is  crossed  by  a  wooden  bridge  about  70  yards 
in  length.  Each  side  of  the  town  measures  under  half  a  mile.  It  is 
surrounded  by  a  mud  wall,  in  fairly  good  repair,  with  several  gates 
surmounted  by  guard-houses  of  the  usual  Chinese  junk  pattern.  The 
interior  of  the  town  is  uninteresting,  the  houses  are  poor,  and  in  many 
•cases  dilapidated,  and  there  are  no  large  buildings.  Sundricd  bricks, 
mud,  and  timber  are  the  only  building  materials.  The  town  contains  a 
bazaar  with  several  good  shops,  but  the  trade  is  confined  to  a  retail 
traffic  for  supply  of  the  wants  of  the  residents  and  of  the  Mongol  nomads 
south  of  the  mountains.  Farmhouses  are  scattered  along  the  banks  of 
the  river  both  above  and  below  the  town,  and  the  land  appears  to  be 
very  carefully  tilled.  The  river  is  the  only  source  of  water-supply,  and 
outside  the  strip  of  irrigated  land  the  country  is  a  sandy  desert.  On 
the  left  bank  of  the  Danga  Gol,  and  about  a  mile  above  the  present  town, 
is  the  site  of  the  old  city  of  Sachu,  the  limits  of  which  can  easily  be 
traced  by  the  ruined  walls  still  standing.  The  ground  inside  the  wall 
has  been  ploughed  up  and  cultivated. 

We  are  informed  that  the  direct  road  to  Hami  lay  through  a  desert 
in  which  water  was  scarce,  and  were  advised  to  turn  east  and  join  the 
great  trunk  road  between  China  and  Turkistan  at  Ghainsh^  or  Uainshe, 
on  which  rest-houses  have  been  erected  where  supplies  are  procurable. 
Ghainshe  is  about  60  miles  from  Sachu.  It  is  a  wretched  place,  ver^' 
small,  and  in  ruins  for  the  most  part.  Mud  forts,  now  dismantled  and 
ruinous,  were  numerous  between  Sachu  and  Ghainsh6. 

A  few  hundred  yards  from  the  mud  wall  of  Ghainshe  we  entered  the 
desert  and  marched  through  it  on  a  fairly  good  road  for  about  175  miles 
to  a  small  village  called  El-Timar,  Wood  and  grass  were  only  pro- 
curable at  the  rest-houses  and  at  famine  prices.  Thirty  miles  more 
over  a  plain  covered  with  coarse  grass  brought  us  to  the  town  of  HamL 

No.  XII.— Dko.  1887.]  8  o 


748 


A  JOURNEY  ROUND  CBI^*ESE  TtTRKlSTAN 


Hero  we  found  ourselves  once  more  among  Europeans,  as  wo 
warmly  and  hospitably  greeted  by  Mr.  Splingaerd,  a  Belgian,  "who  held 
the  post  of  customs  officer  under  the  Chinese  Govommont  at  Sachn,  and 
had  travelled  over  great  part  of  China  in  the  service  of  Baron  Bichthofen, 
and  by  two  young  Russian  merchants,  v?ho  scemod  to  have  been  having 
a  bad  time  of  it  with  tho  local  oflEeials,  as  one  of  them  had  been  spending 
the  last  five  months  in  jail  on  an  apparently  frivolous  charge. 

Hami  comprises  a  Chinese  town  inside  a  small  but  neatly-bnilt  mtid 
fort.  Adjoining  it  is  a  large  suburb  containing  the  bazaara  and  numerous 
serais  and  dwelling-houses  of  Chinese  and  Tuiigania.  We  put  up  in  a 
Tungani's  house  in  this  suburb.  Alwut  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  south- 
west is  ihe  old  town,  peopled  exclusively  by  Turka  unrltr  their  o^vn 
Wang  or  hereditary  governor.  The  Wang  left  for  l^ekin  on  the  day  of 
our  arrival  at  Hami,  as  he  is  required  to  present  himself  there  on  New 
Voar*a  Day  every  ninth  year*  With  tha  exception  of  the  Wang's  house, 
the  old  town  is  miserably  built,  t^evcral  officers  of  the  late  Amir  Yak ub 
Beg  are  in  exile  here.  They  of  course  remumbered  Sir  D.  Forsyth'a 
mission,  and  on  hearing  that  wo  were  English  were  very  attentive,  I 
abstained  from  visiting  the  principal  man  amcng  them,  Muhammad 
Khan,  formerly  Hakin  Beg  of  Kashgar,  only  because  I  feared  by  so  duing 
I  might  increase  the  suspicions  of  the  Chinese,  and  perhaps  hinder  thoir 
liberation,  for  which  petitions  from  the  principal  Mussulman  iti habitants 
of  Ttirkistan  had  been  forwarded  to  the  governor-general  at  Urumtsi, 

There  is  but  little  cultivated  land  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Hami, 
and  I  was  informed  that  the  bulk  of  the  land,  both  arable  and  pasture, 
Ix'longing  to  the  residents,  ia  at  a  dietHUCo  of  several  miles  wdtbin  the 
mountains  to  the  north.  The  town  is  well  supplied  with  excellent  coal, 
and  also  with  pine-wood  used  both  as  timber  anil  for  fuel.  The  extensive 
eaotonments  and  official  buildings  to  the  west  of  the  town  built  only  a 
few  years  back  were  dismantled  on  tho  transfer  to  Urumtsi  of  the  seat 
of  government.  It  appears  to  be  customary  with  the  Chinese  to  destroy 
any  buildings  that  are  no  longer  required  for  the  purpose  for  which 
they  were  provided,  in  order  that  the  last  occupant  may  make  a  little 
money  by  selling  the  materials*  They  are  never  transferred  for  use  by 
any  other  department  of  the  government.  This  procedure  is  irritating 
to  the  Turks,  who  have  to  furnish  the  timl^^r  and  much  of  the  labour 
employed  in  constructing  the  buildings.  From  Hami  our  road  lay 
through  grass  land,  for  about  45  miles  to  the  village  of  Jigda,  then  ovor 
145  miles  of  desert  to  Fichan,  where  is  a  small  fort  and  a  guard  of 
100  Chinese  soldiers.  This  was  the  frontier  outpost  of  Kashgaria  under 
the  Amir.  Tho  country  now  improved,  and  we  passed  through  culti- 
vated and  grass  land  for  the  remaining  55  miles  to  Turfan,  where  we 
put  up  in  a  trader's  serai  in  tho  centre  of  the  Mabommedan  town. 

On  neaiing  Turfan  we  passed  through  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  town, 
in  which  a  large  tomb  with  a  minaret  2^0  feet  high  is  conspicuous- 


AND  ALONG  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  OF  TIBET.  749 

The  Mahommedan  town  is  about  1^  miles  to  the  west  of  the  Chinese 
town,  and  the  distance  across  it  from  the  eastern  to  the  western  gate  is 
about  a  mile. 

Both  the  city  of  Tnrfan  and  the  country  in  the  neighbourhood  are 
irrigated  by  karezes  or  underground  canals  from  springs  at  the  foot  of 
the  hills.  This  is  the  case  all  the  way  from  Pichan,  there  being  no 
irrigation  from  streams. 

The  Tungani  and  Chinese  element  predominates  in  the  population. 

I  was  able  to  cash  Government  of  India  currency  notes  at  Turfan. 
The  discount  charged  was  heavy,  but  that  Indian  paper  money  should 
be  negotiable  at  all  in  so  remote  a  place  shows  how  widespread  is  the 
confidence  of  Asiatics  in  the  good  faith  of  the  Government  of  India. 
Twenty-eight  miles  from  Turfian  is  the  little  town  of  Toktasun,  where 
we  were  hospitably  entertained  by  the  chief  Beg.  From  this  point  we 
made  an  excursion  to  Urumtsi,  about  95  miles  distant,  passing  about 
half-way  the  small  town  of  Dawan  Chin  with  a  Tungani  population. 
The  siege  and  capture  of  the  fort  of  Dawan  Chin  and  politic  release  of 
the  prisoners  taken,  with  the  exception  of  such  as  were  Andijanis,  with 
a  small  present  of  money  to  each,  were  incidents  in  the  advance  of  the 
Chinese  troops  to  reoccupy  the  country  nine  years  ago. 

Urumtsi,  the  headquarters  of  the  Chinese  Government  of  Turkistan, 
is  situated  in  a  broad  valley  within  the  Tian  Shan  range,  watered  by  a 
large  stream  which  flows  from  the  southern  side  of  the  mountains.  It 
consists  of  a  cluster  of  nine  or  ten  separate  small  walled  towns.  The 
population  is  mixed,  comprising  Manchus,  Chinese,  Tunganis,  and  Turks, 
and  there  is  a  large  bazaar  stocked  with  Chinese  and  Russian  wares. 
From  November  to  March  the  climate  is  very  severe,  but  the  city  is  well 
supplied  with  coal  and  charcoal  of  excellent  quality.  My  visit  took 
place  in  the  middle  of  December. 

Liu  Joshwe,  the  (Jovemor-G^eneral  of  Turkistan,  and  the  only  man 
in  the  province  permitted  to  use  a  palanquin,  was  very  attentive  to  m& 
during  the  seven  days  of  my  stay  in  Urumtsi.  He  made  many  enquiriea 
about  India,  and  seemed  especially  curious  regarding  the  exact  nature 
of  the  relations  between  the  British  Government  and  Afghanistan,  and 
of  the  events  at  Panjdeh  in  1885.  He  seems  to  be  popular  with  all 
classes  of  the  people  throughout  the  province,  and  enjoys  the  prestige 
of  having  regained  Turkistan  for  the  Chinese  in  1878,  and  governed  it 
ever  since. 

Returning  to  Toktasun,  we  pushed  on  without  delay  to  Karashahr, 
distant  about  145  miles,  over  a  generally  barren  country,  much  of  the 
road  running  through  low  hills.  There  is  a  good  deal  of  traffic  upon 
this  road,  and  long  strings  of  camels  carrying  frozen  fish  from  the 
Baghrash  Lake  for  sale  in  Urumtsi  were  especially  noticeable.  We 
passed  Karashahr  without  halting,  and  put  up  at  our  old  quarters  in 
Kurla,  where  a  very  cordial  reception  awaited  us. 

3  0  2 


750 


A  JOURNEY  KOUND  CHINESE  TURKISTAK 


Beyond  Kui^a  tho  road  still  ran  through  a  generally  barren  country, 
though  somewhat  less  forlorn  and  desolate  than  that  further  to  the  east. 
At  several  of  the  halting-places  we  foniid  smail  patches  of  cultivation 
and  a  tiny  hazaar.  Eighty-five  mileB  from  Kurla  the  large  walled 
village  of  Yengi  Hissar  was  reached,  and  21  railea  further  tho  small 
tO"vm  of  Bngar,  loually  famous  for  its  manufacture  of  rugs.  Kiichar,  a 
town  of  about  15,000  inhabitants,  with  extensive  suburbs,  lies  abont 
70  miles  further  west.  A  solitary  Indian  Mussulman  has  settled  down 
here  and  acquired  some  land.  He  had  been  unable  to  communicate 
with  hiB  friends  in  Ludhiana  for  several  years.  1  undertook  to  convey 
a  lettt'r  from  him  to  them — a  promise  which  was  duly  fulfilled. 

We  had  intended  to  halt  at  Kuchar  for  a  day  or  two,  but  the  throng 
of  people  which  collected  immediately  on  our  arrival,  drawn  by 
DalgleisVs  reputation  as  a  physician,  was  so  embarrassing  that  we 
were  obliged  to  make  our  escape  by  dipping  away  the  next  moming 
before  daylight.  A  number  of  ]>ersons  suffering  from  various  ailmenta 
nevertheless  pursued  us  on  horseback  to  the  next  stage.  The  only  place 
of  any  importance  between  Kuchar  and  Aksn  is  the  small  town  of  Bai, 
famous  for  the  excellence  of  its  dairy  produce. 

Very  large  burial-grounds  are  passed  through  when  drawing  near  to 
Aksu  from  the  east.  The  city  is  invisible  until  closely  approached,  aa 
it  lies  just  beneath  a  very  high  bank.  The  Chinese  city  is  about 
6^  miles  from  tho  old  Mahommedan  town,  in  which  we  were  provided 
with  most  comfortable  lodgings.  Indian  currency  notes  wore  hero 
easily  disposed  of  at  a  discount  of  about  0  per  cent.  The  road  from 
Aksu  to  Yarkand  via  the  small  town  and  fort  of  Maralbashi  runs  for  the 
most  part  through  jungle  and  desert.  Along  the  road  for  a  considerable 
distance  the  Chinese  have  constructed  a  large  embankment,  to  prevent 
tho  country  being  submerged  when  the  river  is  in  flood. 

Since  leaving  Eurla  we  had  avoided  the  huge  comfortless  Chinese 
rest-housep,  and  put  up  in  private  houses  w^henever  it  was  possible  to  do 
so.  Oui*  reception  w^as  always  friendly  and  hospitable  on  the  part  of 
the  Dolan  shepherds  in  the  a>untry  round  Maralbashi,  no  less  than  of 
the  Turks  of  the  towns  and  larger  villages. 

I  bad  now  completed  the  circuit  of  Chinese  Turkistan,  and,  Kashgar 
excepted^  had  visited  almost  everj^  important  place  in  it. 

The  chief  characteristic  of  the  conntry  is  its  extreme  poverty.  It 
may  indeed  be  described  as  a  huge  desert  fringed  by  a  few  small  patchea 
of  cultivation*  The  only  really  good  strip  of  country  of  considenible 
size  is  the  western  portion,  comprising  Kargalik,  Yarkanil,and  Kashgar. 
To  the  north  a  succession  of  very  small  oases  extends  along  tho  foot  of 
the  Tian  Shan  Mountains,  the  stretches  of  intervening  desert  becoming 
larger  as  tho  traveller  goes  further  to  the  east.  The  eastern  extremity 
of  the  province  is  desert  pure  and  simple,  and  bo  is  the  eoTithern  ex- 
tremity as  far  west  as  Kiria,  with  the  exception  of  the  small  oases  of 


AND  ALONG  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  OF  TIBET.  761 

Charchand  and  Chaklik.  The  central  portion  is  chiefly  desert,  except 
that  pasture  of  a  coarse  and  inferior  description  is  found  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  Tarim  river  and  of  parts  of  the  Lob  Nor  lake  system. 
There  are  probably  many  districts  in  India  in  charge  of  a  single  collector 
and  magistrate,  which  are  richer  and  better  worth  having  than  the 
whole  of  this  huge  province,  extending  over  not  much  less  than 
20  degrees  of  longitude  and  6  degrees  of  latitude. 

Sanguine  expectations  have  from  time  to  time  been  entertained  of 
the  development  of  a  large  trade  with  Turkistan,  but  judging  from  the 
poverty  of  the  country,  the  sparseness  of  the  population,  and  the  absence 
of  any  manufacturing  industries  except  on  the  most  petty  scale,  it 
appears  to  me  impossible  that  such  anticipations  can  ever  be  realised. 
The  volume  of  trade,  either  with  India  or  Bussia,  must,  I  am  disposed 
to  think,  always  remain  insignificant. 

Any  discussion  of  our  political  relations  with  Turkistan  would  be 
out  of  place  here.  I  may,  however,  without  impropriety  say  that  so  far 
as  my  personal  experience  goes,  the  most  friendly  feeling  appears  to 
exist  towards  England  on  the  part  both  of  the  subject  Mahommedan 
population  and  of  the  officials  of  the  Chinese  Government.  At  present 
the  Chinese  seem  to  be  adopting  a  conciliatory  policy  towards  the 
Mussulmans,  due  perhaps  to  a  consciousness  that  their  position  in 
Turkistan  is  not  altogether  secure.  Occasional  instances  of  ill-treat- 
ment of  individuals  occur,  but,  on  the  whole,  so  far  as  my  observation 
extended,  their  rule  is  not  a  harsh  one.  The  tortures  and  detestable 
cruelties  practised  on  criminals  and  accused  persons,  as  described  by 
travellers  in  China  Proper,  are  almost  unknown  in  Turkistan,  except 
that  the  punishment  of  the  cage  is  sometimes  resorted  to  and  severe 
beatings  are  often  iDflicted.  Complete  religious  toleration  is  maintained. 
Crime  is  repressed,  and  life  and  property  are  in  ordinary  times  as  safe 
in  Turkistan  as  in  British  India.  The  prestige  of  the  Chinese  stands 
very  high,  and  they  are  looked  up  to  much  as  Englishmen  used  to  be  in 
India  some  years  ago.  Among  the  people  generally,  more  confidence 
seems  to  be  felt  in  the  Chinese  than  in  the  Mussulman  officials. 

The  most  glaring  evil  in  the  administration  is  the  prevalence  of 
official  corruption,  which  is  intensified  by  the  uncertain  tenure  of  office 
and  the  frequent  transfers  of  the  superior  functionaries,  but  as  a  whole, 
I  do  not  think  the  Chinese  regime  in  Turkistan  compares  unfavourably 
with  other  Asiatic  governments,  such,  e.g.  as  those  of  many  Native 
States  in  India.  In  spite  of  their  absurd  self-conceit  and  other  peculi- 
arities, the  Chinese  appeared  to  me  to  be  by  no  means  altogether  wanting 
in  the  better  characteristics  of  a  ruling  class,  and  to  be  quite  the 
superiors  of  the  Turks  in  decision,  moderation,  intelligence,  and  the 
other  qualities  which  fit  men  for  positions  of  authority. 

The  Chinese  have  no  military  strength  in  Turkistan  that  could  for  a 
moment  resist  the  advance  of  European  troops.     To  an  unprofessional 


752 


A  JOtlRNET  ROUND  CHINESE  TUEKISTAN,  ETC. 


eye  tbero  seemed  to  be  good  raw  material  among  the  soldiery,  but  the 
men  are  undisciplined  and  poorly  armed,  wliQe  tlie  officers  are  utterly 
inefficient  and  often  addicted  to  opium, 

China  is  an  imaggressive  and  not  unfriendly  neighbour,  and  our 
good  wishes  may  therefore  go  with  her  efforts  to  maintain  and  consolidate 
her  authority. 

I  left  Yfirkand  on  the  7th  March,  1887,  and  travelled  by  Kargalik 
and  Kugiar  to  Loh,  crossing  the  Yengi  Dawan  or  New  Piiss  on  the  27th 
March  and  the  Karakoram  Pass  on  the  5th  Aprih  The  cold  was  severe, 
and  oiuch  snow  lay  on  the  ground  to  the  south  of  the  Karakoram  in 
Chai  Josh  Jilga  and  as  fiir  as  Tepchand.  I  returned  by  ttie  Kashmir 
route  through  Srinagar  tu  KawalpiDdi,  and  reached  Siaila  on  the  27th 
May  hifit,  lutving  exceeded  my  leave  of  absence  by  one  day. 

I  am  indebted  to  the  kindness  uf  Colonel  Haig,  e,e.,  Deputy  Surveyor- 
General  of  India,  in  charge  of  the  Trigonometrical  Surveys,  for  the  map 
on  the  scale  of  eight  miles  to  an  inch  which  accompanies  this  paper.  It 
has  been  constructed  from  a  route-sketch,  with  explanatory  notes  kept 
up  at  ray  requejit  by  Mr.  Biilgb*ish.  Colonel  Haig  informs  me  that  the 
latitudes  deduced  from  Mr.  Dalgloish^s  observations  made  with  a  pocket 
sextant  are  very  accorilant,  and  that  the  sketch  and  notes  form  a  valuable 
record  of  the  country  traver.sed.  I  have  placed  the  original  sketch  and 
notes  at  the  dispofial  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  which  is  thus  in 
a  position  to  judge  of  the  care  and  accuracy  with  which  this  tedious  task 
has  been  performed,  and  all  1  need  say  on  the  subject  is  that  whatever 
credit  is  due  for  the  maiiiteiiance  of  the  record  belongs  entirely  and 
solely  to  Mr.  Dalgleisli. 

Ap^irt  from  this,  the  accomplishment  of  the  trip  without  any  serious 
hitch  is  mainly  due  to  the  assistance  1  received  from  this  staunch 
comrade.  His  knowledge  of  the  Turki  and  Persian  languages  and  skill 
in  the  management  of  a  caravan  and  in  dealing  with  Asiatics  were 
invaluable.  That  the  jouraey  was  completed  without  the  loss  of  a 
single  baggage  pony,  and  that  the  caravan  existed  for  close  upon  four 
months  without  any  renewal  of  supplies,  I  attribute  to  his  constant 
vigilance  and  guud  arrangements. 

The  stores  with  which  wc  left  Chaklik  on  the  2*Jth  April,  1886,  con- 
sisted of— 7250  lb.  of  corn,  750  lb.  of  dried  lucerne  grass,  1320  lb.  of 
wheat  flour,  <j75  lb.  of  rice,  170  lb.  of  satu,  106  lb.  of  biscuits,  60  lb.  of 
ghee,  a  large  bag  of  tea;  and  nothing  more  was  obtained  until  the 
caravan  reached  Harmngan  Namaga  on  the  1st  September  following, 
with  the  exception  of  some  butter,  brick  tea,  and  sheep,  which  I  eent 
to  Xaichi  from   Golmo,  and  which  reached  Dalgleish  on  the  16th  of 

AugliBt. 

•^*  The  dJBonasioii  oa  tho  foregoing  paper  will  appear  in  tlie  Jatnmry  No.  of  the 
'  Proceedings/ 


•(    753    ) 


Silva  Porto's  Journey  from  BHie  (Bie)  to  tlie  BaJciila  Country* 

Map,  p.  790. 

Antonio  Francisco  Ferreira  da  Silva  Porto  occupies  a  foremost  place  amongst 
those  enterprising  Portuguese  traders,  who,  long  before  the  days  of  Livingstone, 
travelled  at  the  head  of  their  caravans  into  the  unexplored  repons  of  Africa.  He 
is  almost  the  only  one  whose  diaries  (in  part)  have  been  published,  so  as  to  enable  us 
to  utilise  them  for  the  improvement  of  African  jreography.  In  1852-3  Senhor  Silva 
Porto  paid  one  of  his  frequent  visits  to  the  Barotse  coimtry  on  the  Liambai,  and 
'despatched  thence  his  servant  Chacahanga  to  the  east  coast.  Mr.  M'Queen,  who 
published  an  abstract  of  this  journey  in  the  Journal  of  the  Boyal  Grcographical 
«Society  (vol.  xxx.  1860,  pp.  136-154),  assumed  that  Silva  Porto  himself  had  crossed 
the  continent  "a  contra  costa,**  an  error  which  down  to  the  present  day  has  been 
perpetuated  in  books  and  maps.t  Dr.  Livingstone,  who  met  Silva  Porto  at  Linyanti 
in  1853,  and  subsequently  in  the  Barotse  country,  contemptuously  refers  to  him  as 
a  8lave-dealer,J  a  term  of  reproach  which  we  feel  sure  he  never  deserved.  The 
American  missionaries  and  Mr.  Arnott  give  quite  a  different  account  of  the  man, 
and  the  former  more  especially  acknowledge  their  indebtedness  to  him.§ 

The  diary,  of  which  we  now  propose  to  present  an  abstract,  relates  a  journey 
from  Bie  (Bihe)  to  the  country  of  the  Bakuba  beyond  the  Lulua,  recently  explored 
by  Dr.  Pogge,  Lieut.  Wissmann,  and  Dr.  L.  Wolf.  Silva  Porto's  route  led  for  the 
most  part  through  regions  not  hitherto  delineated  upon  our  maps.  He  crossed, 
however,  in  several  instances  the  routes  of  other  explorers,  and  this  enabled  us  to 
lay  down  his  route  in  a  fairly  satisfactory  manner.  All  those  statements  in  the 
diary  capable  of  being  transferred  to  a  map  have  found  a  place  upon  the  sketch 
which  accompanies  this  article.  Silva  Porto  gives  the  direction  and  duration  of  each 
day's  march,  and  we  thus  learn  that  he  spent  3091  hours  of  actual  travel  upon  the 
journey  from  Belmonte  to  the  Lulua.  As  the  distance  between  these  places  as 
measured  on  our  sketch  amounts  to  616  geographical  miles,  he  travelled  at  the  rate 
of  two  miles  an  hour.  This  rate,  however,  appears  not  to  have  been  uniform,  as  the 
following  tabular  statement  shows : — 


Hoars'  march. 

Distance, 
miles. 

Rat«  per  hoar. 

ynil<N^ 

Belmonte  to  the  Kuanza  (Tuvumuka)      . . 

Knanza  to  Euaneo  source 

Kuango  to  Sba  Mokunda's 

8ha  Mokanda's  to  Kisengo's       

Kisenge's  to  Malta  Mosefo 

M.  Mo8efo*B  to  Kimbundo's 

Kimbundo's  to  the  Easai 

Kasai  to  Masasuri  river       

Masasuri  to  Lulua 

34i 

61 

45 

20 

58 

29 

19 

28 

15 

64 

115 

120 

43 

114 

50 

31 

55 

24 

1-9 
1-7 
2-7 
21 
20 
1-7 
1-6 
20 
1*6 

Total     

309i 

616 

2-0 

*  From  the  *  Boletim  *  of  the  Lisbon  Geographical  Society,  1886-7. 
t  Porto's  original  diary,  and  that  of  his  servant,  will  be  found  in  the  *  Annaes  do 
Conselho  Ultramarino,'  L,  1854-8,  pp.  278  et  $eq. 
X  'Missionary  Travels,'  p.  218. 
§  'Missionary  Herald,'  Boston,  1885,  p.  26. 


764  SILVA  POETO'S  JOURNEY  FROM  BIHE  (BIE)  TO  THE  BAKOBA  COtTNTBY. 


The  distances  are  taken  from  the  acoompanyiiig  sketch  map.  Tlio  excessive  rntO' 
between  the  Kimiigo  source  (laid  down  according  to  Lieut*  IvenB)  and  Sha 
ilokanda's  (visited  by  Po^^),  api^ears  to  point  to  an  error  in  the  iiositiotiB  of  theses 
places. 

We  now  turn  to  the  ''  Diary*"  Silva  Porto  left  Benguek  on  November  Ist,  ISTy^ 
and  on  the  26th  of  the  same  month  reached  his  residence  Belraonte,  in  Bihe,  On  the 
road  he  met  several  caravans  carrying  wax,  ivory,  and  provisions  to  the  coast.  By 
the  end  of  February  1880,  bis  preparations  for  a  tratliug  trip  into  the  interior  had 
been  completed,  and  on  March  l»t  he  startetl  his  caravan  along  the  direct  road^ 
whilst  he  himself  first  paid  a  visit  to  Kilcmo,  the  chief  of  Bihts  at  Koi»ongo.  At^ 
Bonvisia,  the  Tesidence  of  Lucas  Josd  Coimbm,  he  rejnineti  hi«  ]>eople,  and  trftvelllng 
through  a  fertile  chiy  country,  occ^isioDally  rising  into  bilU  and  uwded,  he  arrived 
at  Tuvuinnka,  a  Kiboko  village  on  the  Kuanza,  on  March  14th.  On  the  following 
day  he  and  his  |>aity  were  ferried  over.  Tlie  country,  as  far  aa  Kindumba,  tbo 
village  of  Kaniboto,  a  Kiboko  chief,  is  described  as  being  level  and  fertile,  but  tlience^ 
ss  far  as  the  Euango  and  beyond,  it  ia  hilly  and  densely  wooded.  The  soil  through- 
out is  clay. 

The  Kiboko  or  Kashoko,  who  extend  from  near  tlie  Knanza  far  to  the  north- 
eastward, have  adopted  many  of  tlie  habits  of  the  Balunrln.  Their  villaf^ea  are  built 
in  the  same  style,  with  ji  lofty  '*jango"  or  public  hall  in  the  centre.  Sheep,  goats^ 
pigs,  and  pigeons  are  bred.  The  word  of  salutixtion  is  **  tambuko "  in  the  souths 
and  *'  bondy  *'  (evidently  a  corruption  of  '*  bom  dia '')  in  the  north.  The  hair  is  wornr 
in  innnmerable  tresses  from  8  to  16  inches  long.  No  human  beings  are  sacrificed  on 
the  death  of  a  chief.  The  followers  of  the  deceased  chief  either  return  to  their 
relatives  or  build  themselvca  a  new  village.  The  new  chief  also  builds  a  new- 
village,  and  if  he  enjoys  the  respect  of  his  sub-chiefs,  they  each  present  liim  with 
a  man  or  a  woman  to  people  it.  The  sites  of  abandoned  villages  soon  become 
covered  with  adeuse  growth  of  buish. 

From  Kanyika^s*  village  it  is  one  hours  march  to  Kavrewe's(Canb^u*rs) village- 
at  the  source  of  the  Kuango.f  A  short  march  of  three  hours  in  a  north-easterly 
direction  brings  the  traveller  thence  to  the  Kajiabi  (K:vsai),  the  rrxid  plunging 
almost  immediately  down  a  steep  descent.  The  Kasai,  at  this  s|K)t,  has  day  banks 
and  a  Jsandy  bed,  and  is  only  40  jards  wide.  It  is  said  to  rise  in  Kitangna*s  country^ 
Still  continuing  tlirough  a  line  hilly  region,  with  dense  woods  yielding  rosin,  rubber, 
copnb  nnd  timber  along  the  rivers,  Silva  Porto  passed  through  the  villages  of 
Matiamvo  and  of  Ids  son  Muata  Gunda,  and  reached  the  Upi>er  Chiumbue 
(Chihdmbo),  here  about  forty  yards  wide,  and  llowing  along  the  bottom  of  a  ravine 
at  least  200  feet  in  dejith.  After  leaving  the  villages  uf  the  Kiboko  chiefs  Sha 
Ndumba  and  Sha  Mazembe,  a  level  country  quite  void  of  villages  was  entered  upon. 
The  soil  was  clay  and  sand.  The  river  banks  were  densely  wooded.  The  cami>3 
hero  were  visitetl  by  Balunda  rnd  Kiboko,  who  ufiVred  arms,  slaves,  rubber,  wax^ 
domestic  animals,  and  provisiouF,  in  excbiinge  for  powder  and  European  manu- 
tiictures, 

FiLssing  throngh  the  Balunda  villages  of  Mnala  Ehunda  and  Sha  Mokanda,  the 
caravan,  on  April  23rd,  arrived  at  the  rejiidence  of  the  powerful  Kiboko  chief 
Kisen;:e  e  ]»a  Temjx),  a  relative  of  the  Ndumba  Temj)u  visited  by  Capello  and  Iveus, 
and  a  tnbiilary  of  the  Muatynnvua.  He  was  a  man  of  about  twenty-four,  tali  ,ind 
slender,  and  of  pleasant  countenance.     He  wore  his  hair  in  tresses,  to  which  were 


■ 


•  Canheeie  is  evidently  a  misprint  for  Canhica. 

t  Lieut.  Iven»(vol.  I  p.  l&O)  mentions  a  Cfiiien  rivtdet  rising  in  Kaniknna  the  source- 
of  the  Kasai.     The  Ctideu  of  his  map  eurreaponds  to  Siiva  Porto's  Monyango. 


SUVA  PORTO'S  JOURNEY  FROM  BIHE  (Bit)  TO  THE  BAKDBA  CODKTRV,  755 

attached  brass  oniaments  made  by  native  artists,  uliUst  plumes  of  the  r©l  tail- 
Icatliers  of  tlse  grey  parrot  siirnKumlcd  the  top  of  liis  lie^id,  Kiseuge  wore  dotben 
of  the  finest  *'  fajiei\4a"  and  was  seiiteJ  upon  a  chair  placed  within  a  screen  made  of 
caHco  and  cx)loured  pocket-bandkercliiefs.  Having  hia  eldera  upon  one  sidej  and 
his  Mukuaniada  or  household  on  the  other,  ho  presented  t^uile  an  impoaing 
appeamuce. 

Betwetn  Kibumlo  (Kimhundo?)  and  tli©  Muata  Molundo,  no  villages  were  met 
with.  On  the  Sunil>o  the  author  observed  a  tree  growing  to  a  hei^^ht  of  100  feet, 
and  yielding  an  aromaiic  rosin  (wmmict/b),  as  also  seeds  from  which  the  natives 
obtain  oil,  wLick  they  use  medicinally. 

From  Mnata  Shiamba's,  on  the  Chiuinhiic\  to  the  Lniisliima,  the  right  hank  of 
which  was  followed  by  the  author  during  thirtetn  marchts,  as  far  as  ita  confluence 
with  the  Kasai,  is  a  marcli  of  six  hours. 

The  Muata  Mosefo  Matiamvo,  already  known  to  us  tlirough  Schiitt,  received  his 
visitor  seated  uix>n  a  ehiiir,  and  Bup|iorling  himself  upon  two  men  who  knelt 
on  either  side.  He  wore  the  lulatto  or  bracelet  bestowed  by  the  Muat'  yanvnafitr 
faithful  service.  This  emblem  of  j-iower  is  made  of  brass  and  copper  wire  interwoven 
with  the  sinews  of  a  human  being  sacrificed  on  s<;mc  specially  solemn  occasion.  It 
is  cohered  with  the  skin  of  a  kiseina  (an  antelope?),  and  attached  to  it  are  various 
charms.  If  the  holder  of  this  emblem  loses  the  favour  of  his  feudal  lord,  a 
messenger^  beating  a  similar  bracelet,  but  of  smaller  Hizc,and  a  mukucde  (two-edge<l 
knife),  is  despatched  to  him,  and  the  disgraced  chief  quietly  submits  to  decapitation, 
his  brothers  and  wives  generally  electing  the  same  fate. 

Kimbnndo,*  the  chief  of  the  Maio  or  Amamaio,  on  ceremonial  occaBlone,  wears  a 
pink^eoloured  Maklla  loin-cloth  reaching  down  to  the  knees,  and  covered  with 
fihellaj  an  up|er  garment  of  green  cloth,  a  necklace  trimmed  with  shells,  and  a 
helmet-shaped  head-dres*,  the  front  of  which  k  also  adorned  with  shells.  The  Mab 
are  of  the  isam©  race  as  the  Baluba.  They  shave  jKirt  of  the  head»  file  the  teeth,  and 
lattoo  as  fnncy  directs  them.  The  dead  arc  buried  with  a  supply  of  food  and  drink, 
Buflicient  to  last  a  month,  for  they  are  supposed  to  have  a  long  journey  before  them, 
from  which  they  may  after  a  time  return. 

The  country  to  the  north  of  Kimbundo*s,  tis  far  as  the  Lulu  a,  is  ruled  by  Kaluha 
chiefs,  near  whose  villages  are  groves  of  plantains  and  bananas.  Coffee  grows  wild 
in  the  forest-clad  ravines  through  which  the  Katungakale  and  Lombele  take  their 
course  to  the  Luashima*  llie  Baluba  or  Bashilanga  w^elcome  strangers  to  their 
country.  They  are  split  up  into  a  large -number  of  small  tribes.  I'hey  file  the 
teeth,  tattoo,  and  either  shave  part  of  the  head  or  wear  tresses  like  the  Kiboko.  A 
bone,  a  ring,  or  other  ornament  is  usually  worn  in  the  nose.  Hem|>-smoking  and 
the  drinking  of  palm-wine  are  carried  to  excess,  and  lead  up  to  a  state  of  frenzy, 
during  which  thrso  afflicted  run  into  tlie  forest,  and  kill  the  first  man  they  meet. 
The  Baluba  look  upon  the  Moyo  (a  tributary  of  the  Lulua)  as  the  cradle  of  their 
race,  and  swear  by  it.  The  Moyo  ceremony  is  a  nocturnal  orgie,  the  participators  in 
which  meet  around  a  wooden  post  in  the  middle  of  the  village,  to  which  their  arms 
are  susix^nded,  and  near  which  a  fire  Is  kindled  by  the  Kimul>anda.  After  some 
chanting,  in  the  course  of  which  the  word  "Moyo"  occurs  frequently,  a  goat  is 
sacrificed,  its  blood  being  spill;  upon  the  ground.  Eating  and  drinking  then  go  on 
until  the  morning  when  the  fire  is  put  out,  and  the  ashes  are  thrown  into  the  river. 


*  Schiitt  (p.  150X  who  visited  this  chief,  tells  ua  that  he  U  also  known  aa  Muene 
Kihmta.  Aooorduig  to  Capt&ui  Carvalho,  Kiluata  has  since  been  succeeded  by  his 
brother  Karauanga. 


75G  SILVA  PORTO'S  JOURNEY  IFROH  BIRE  (BIQ  TO  THE  BAKUBA  COUNTRY. 


Tkb  ceremony  is  practised  by  all  the  Baluba,  as  also  hy  tlio  Maio  and  Bakuba,  and 
litfuce  the  territory  inhabited  by  these  tribts  ia  known  to  the  Bilienos  as  *'  Moyo.'* 

Buyaniba*ii  village,  at  the  ferry />ver  the  KasEii,  wcupies  a  higli  bluff  at  the 
conflucQCC  of  that  river  witli  the  Luashlma.  The  Kasai  is  about  1100  yards  wide, 
but  its  cijurjie  is  obstructed  by  rocks  j  the  banks  arc  wooJed,  Crossing  this  river  in 
smnll  iKiata,  the  curavjin  followed  it  as  far  as  Batamissa-s  village,  and  then  struck 
itdaml^  reaching  the  Lulim  in  eight  rri arches.  The  country  traversed  rises 
occasionally  into  bills,  and  there  are  forests  of  big  trees.  Mafuka  (Shainafoko)  who 
resided  on  the  Kaboloba  when  Foggc  visited  the  country,  occnf^ied  a  villnge  near 
the  Masasuri,  and  in  the  »amo  district  were  the  villages  of  bis  fathtT  Kihula^  of  his 
brother  Kitenipo  (Mueneputo)^  and  of  Katentk',  Joaiinea  Bezerra  Pinto  Coelho  was 
found  established  on  the  Hasosuri  as  a  trader.  The  Maboude  palm  wa^  one  of  the 
must  couspicuons  trees  seen  near  these  and  other  vdlages.  It  yields  the  fibre  from 
which  mabelja  cloth  ia  omde,  and  palm-wiae  in  the  eighth  year  of  its  growth.  In 
the  ninth,  year  it  diea. 

The  Lulna,  where  crossed,  was  only  120  yards  wide,  with  wooded  banks.  Kapau, 
the  village  of  Bnia  Kalunga,  was  only  fuunded  in  1877,  and  is  iuliabited  by  Tukete 
and  a  few  Bakuba.  Three  liouri*  beyond  it  the  author  reached  Kapungo,  the 
**  Kisiilla  **  or  market,  of  Lokengo,  the  king  of  the  Ikkuha,  which  has  about  3000 
inhabitants. 

The  Baknba  say  that  they  came  from  the  country  to  the  north  of  the  lower  Zaire. 
and  Lokengo  claims  to  be  related  to  the  king  of  Congo,  They  break  out  two  upper 
front  teeth,  shave  the  top  of  the  head^  and  wear  a  akuU-cap  made  of  straw* 
Tattooing  is  practised,  the  favourite  pattern  ap|>earing  to  be  Uvo  continuous  stripes, 
carried  from  the  insteps  to  the  wrists.  They  have  no  fire-arms ;  tlie  Tukete  on  the 
Luliia  are  their  subjects.  In  concluding  a  bargain  ft  curious  custom,  called 
iSbikavnndiindo,  is  observed.  An  offer  having  been  made  and  nccepted,  the  vendor 
plucks  a  leaf,  presents  it  to  the  intending  purchaser^  who  takes  bold  <jf  it,  and  then 
cuts  it  asunder,  when  the  two  pieces  are  thrown  bebiud.  If  this  mode  of  confirming 
a  bargain  is  neglected,  the  vendor  can  claim  double  the  value  of  the  ivory  or  other 
merchandise  lie  intendcil  to  sell. 

Senhor  Silva  Porto  ftirnislies  a  few  notes  on  tribes  which  he  did  not  visit.  The 
Ti\|ieude  live  under  sniall  hereditary  chieftains;  they  file  the  teeth,  shave  the  head, 
and  are  armed  with  guns,  bows  and  poisoned  arrows,  mukuale  (two-edged  knives), 
and  sj)ear8.  They  hunt  and  snare  game.  The  Tubinsbe  and  Kausuida  (Kanyanda?) 
to  the  east,  beyotid  the  Kasai,  are  related  to  be  cannibals.  They  shave  the  head, 
file  the  teeth,  and  tattoo  rings  round  the  eyes,  introducing  a  mixture  of  charcoal  and 
vegetable  juice  into  the  wounds.  They  make  use  of  |X)isoned  arrows.  To  the  south 
of  them  hve  the  Malujndo,  thus  called  after  their  lar^ze  houses.  They  also  file  the 
teeth. 

Further  south  still  are  met  the  Kizuata-shito,*  who  file  the  teeth  like  their 
neighbours,  but  are  more  especially  remarkable  for  the  siognlar  custom  of  pulling 
their  skin  nntil  it  covers  their  persona. 

Senhor  Silva  Porto's  "  Lualaba  **  is  evidently  the  Sankuni,  and  he  states  that  it  is 
known  to  the  natives  dwelling  there  as  Mozamgoma  or  Lufamjimbo  ("bush-bird"), 
Shanana  is  a  nickname  aiip^i^*^  ^^  ^^ic  tribes  living  to  the  north  of  the  Lulua, 

The  diary  of  the  return  journey  is  not  given.  We  look  forward  with  interest  to 
the  publication  of  further  *  Diaries '  kept  with  so  much  care  by  this  far- travel  led 
trader,  and  more  esi>ecially  to  an  account  by  him  of  the  Kubango  river,  which  iScrpo 
Pinto  tells  us  he  descended  in  a  boat  to  Liny  an  ii. 


*  8chutt  ('  Beisen,'  p.  139)  was  told  that  the  Quata-sbito  are  dwarfs. 


(    757     ) 


GEOGRAPHICAL  KOTES. 

The  Saciety's  Frizes  for  the  ImprovemeBt  of  Oeographical  Education 
ia  Elementary  Schools, — With  tho  view  of  eBOOuragiiig  the  Btudy  of 
geography  by  the  tefichera,  and  thus  improviDg  tho  methods  of  teaching 
the  Biibject  in  Public  Elementarj^  Sehoijls,  tho  Council  of  the  Society, 
ia  oomplotion  .of  the  scheme  announced  last  year,*  offered  a  seriea  of 
prizes  to  ho  competed  for  annually  by  the  students  in  the  training 
colleges  of  England  aiid  WalifH  and  other  caiididatea  for  teachers' 
certificates.  The  offer  baa  now  been  accepted  by  the  Education  Depart- 
ment, and  will  be  immediately  earriod  into  effect*  The  prizes  will  be 
first  awarded  after  the  next  Cliristinas  examination  for  cortiticatos 
(1887)^  and  will  consist  of:- — An  exhibition  of  the  Viilue  of  157*,  and 
four  <4her  prizes  consisting  of  books  or  maps,  to  male  stii dents  of  the 
lii'st  (or  second)  year;  and  the  same,  i.e.  151.  and  four  other  prizes,  to 
female  candidates  of  the  second  year,  who  pass  the  best  examination  in 
geography. 

The  proposed  AustraHau  Antarctic  ExpeditioE. — Our  Council,  at  its 
last  meeting,  decided  on  supporting  the  application  of  the  Victorian  tp 
the  Home  Government  for  a  grant  of  money  in  aid  of  their  proposed 
reconnaissance  expedition  to  the  Antarctic  Begions.  A  letter  expressing 
the  sympathy  of  the  Society  with  tho  objecta  of  the  proposed  expedition 
Las  betfU  sent  to  Sir  Graham  Berry »  Agent-General  for  Victoria,  and  the 
following  letter  to  the  Secretary  of  State  for  tho  Colonies* 

I6th  Novariher,  1887. 

Sib,— I  have  the  honour  of  bringing  to  yonr  notice  that  the  Council  of  the 
Royal  Geograpliical  Society  have  been  recently  informed  by  the  Agent-General  of 
the  colony  of  VictoriA  that  an  application  has  been  made  to  Her  Mnjeaty's  Govern- 
ment from  that  Colony  for  a  grant  of  5000/.  in  aid  of  an  expedition  which  it  is 
contemplated  to  send  out  from  Melbourne  for  the  exploration  of  the  Antarctic  Ocean. 
The  Council  of  our  Society,  having  given  due  consideration  to  the  character  of  the 
information  that  mi;;ht  he  acquired  throUi;;h  auch  an  exploration,  unanimously 
recognised  its  probahly  great  value  and  inii>ortance  fri^m  many  &cleiiti6c  points  of 
view,  apart  from  any  possible  economical  utility  it  might  have,  and  they  hate 
requested  me  to  convey  to  you  a  respectful  representation  of  their  hope  that  Her 
Majesty's  Government  may  aee  fit  to  make  the  proposed  grautj  to  be  applied, 
together  with  a  like  sum  to  be  contributed  by  the  Colony,  for  the  purposes  of  uuch 
an  expedition. 

The  Comicil,  1  am  to  add,  would  see  with  much  satisfaction  the  further  develop- 
ment in  the  Australian  Colonies  of  the  spirit  which  has  already  led  to  much  very 
valuable  Bcientific  research,  directed  entirely  by  the  cultivators  of  science  in  those 
Colonies,  and  they  entertain  the  belief  that  assistance  such  as  that  now  asked  for 
will  greatly  contribute  to  the  development  of  such  a  spirit,  and  give  valuable  and  need- 
ful support  to  the  extension  of  local  independent  effort  which  is  so  much  to  be  desired. 

I  have,  &c., 
Rt.'Hon.  Sir  Henry  T.  Holland,  o.c.k.o.,  R.  Stsachey, 

Secretary  of  State  for  the  Colonies.  President  Jl,G.S* 

*  *FroeeediDgi  B.G*8^'  1886,  p.  528, 


758 


GEOGRJIPHICAL  NOTES. 


Ascent  of  a  Peak  in  the  Owen  Stanley  Eange,  New  Ouinea. —  TLe 
Rev.  W.  G-  Lawes  (Port  Moresby)  in  for  ids  ub  that  >lr.  Ciithbertson,  the 
leader  of  tho  expedition  despatched  by  the  Victoria  Branch  of  the 
Geographical  Societ}'  of  Australasia,  hue  succeeded  in  reaehing  the 
summit  of  Mount  Obree,  one  of  the  culminating  peaks  of  the  Owen 
Stanley  liangc.  lie  started  from  Kappa  Kappa ^  a  place  on  the  eoaet 
about  30  milea  south-east  of  Port  Moresby^  making  up  his  cai-avan  at 
Mr.  Hunter's  station  a  few  miles  inland,  where  he  engaged  100  native 
carriers^  and  commenced  his  journey  inland  on  the  2nd  of  August  The 
line  of  march  lay  through  a  very  hilly  country,  and  for  a  long  distanoo 
up  a  mountiiin  stream,  over  slippery  boulders.  The  summit  of  Mount 
(Jbrec  was  reached  on  the  30ih  of  Augnst,  tiud  was  found  to  be  SOOQ 
feet  abovo  sea-level ;  a  result  which  seeniH  to  ntitd  ocmlirmatinn  as  it 
diflers  much  from  that  obtained  by  careful  angular  measurements  by  the 
JRattle^naJze  expedition,  viz.  10,246  feet.  The  almost  contiuual  rain  and 
he^vy  clouds  interfered  with  the  view  from  the  summit^  but  Mount 
Owen  Stanley  was  distinctly  seen  in  the  early  morning  looming  abovo 
them. — Mr.  Cuthbertsun  is  an  experienced  surveyor,  and  his  detailed 
observations  and  map  will  be  looked  forward  to  with  considerable 
interest.  His  altitudes  w^ero  taken  by  a  boiling-point  ajiparatus 
belonging  to  our  Society,  which  was  lent  to  him  by  Mr.  Lawes, 
Ho  states  that  he  passed  on  h\s  ascent  the  point  reached  tiy  Messrs. 
Hunter  and  Uartmaun  *  and  found  it  to  ho  only  2500  feet  above 
the  sea.  A  small  botanical  collection  w^as  made  by  Mr.  Bayer,  the 
naturalist  of  tho  expedition.  Pines  were  found  at  from  GOOO  to  8000 
feet,  and  some  beautiful  rhododendrons  at  or  near  the  summit. 

Population  of  New  Zealand, — ^Aecording  to  the  newly4ssueJ  report 
on  the  census  of  New  Zealand,  taken  March  28th,  1886,  the  population, 
exclusive  of  Maoris,  was  578,482,  This  was  an  increase  of  88^549,  or  at 
the  rate  of  18  ■  07  per  cent,  upon  the  number  at  the  previous  censua  of 
1881.  The  rate  of  increase  was  considerably  less  than  during  either  of 
tho  intervals  between  the  previous  census  periods  since  1871.  Of  the 
increase  between  1881  and  188t>,  t>7,205  consisted  of  the  natural 
increase  by  excess  of  births  over  deaths.  The  death-rate  in  1885  was 
only  10' 61  per  thousand.  The  population  given  above  included  4527 
Chinese,  only  15  of  whom  w^ere  women.  The  total  Maori  population 
was  41,1IG1>,  and  2254  half-castes  living  as  members  of  Maori  tribes. 

Northern  Interiar  of  British  Columbia,— Dr.  G.  M*  Dawson  sends  to 
'Science'  a  detailed  account  of  his  recent  work  in  British  Columbia. 
Leaving  Yictoria  early  in  May,  the  expiedition  reached  Fort  Wrangel, 
from  which  point  they  proceeded  up  the  Stikine  river  to  Cassian.  Mr. 
W.  W.  Ogilvie  made  an  instrumental  survey  of  tho  country  from  the 
sea-coast  by  way  of  the  Lewis  river,  up  the  Yukon  to  the  14lst  meridian, 

•  *  Proceed  inga/  ante,  p.  G2L 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  769 

and  his  measurements  will  serve  as  the  basis  for  further  work  in  the 
district.  The  object  t)f  Dr.  Dawson's  researches  was  a  thorough  explora- 
tion of  the  tributaries  of  the  Upper  Yukon.  The  party  proceeded  up  the 
Stikine  river  as  far  as  Dease  Lake.  As  soon  as  the  ice  broke  up,  June  18th, 
they  left  the  lake,  and  went  down  Dease  river  into  the  fork  of  the  Dease 
and  Liard  rivers.  Here  a  party  left  to  descend  and  survey  the  Liard  and 
Mackenzie  rivers.  Dr.  Dawson  went  up  the  Liard  and  Francis  rivers  to 
Francis  Lake,  which  drains  into  the  Liard  and  not  into  the  Pelly  river. 
Thence  Dr.  Dawson  proceeded  down  the  Pelly  river  to  its  junction  with 
the  Lewis  river,  which  was  ascended  and  a  geological  survey  of  the 
country  made.  Mr.  Ogilvie,  separating  from  the  rest  of  the  party,  con- 
tinued down  the  Yukon  river.  He  intended  wintering  on  that  river, 
and  resuming  his  work  in  the  spring,  continuing  it  over  to  the 
Mackenzie  river.  He  will  return  next  autumn  to  Winnipeg  by  way  of 
that  stream  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  route  to  Carlton  on  the  Saskatchewan. 
Mr.  M*Connell  will  probably  winter  at  Fort  Simpson,  on  the  Mackenzie 
river,  and  continue  his  explorations  from  that  point  next  summer. 

Island  of  Salpan  (Marianne  Oroup). — A  recent  visit  paid  to  this  little 
island  by  M.  A.  Marche,  the  French  traveller,  gives  us  some  new 
information  respecting  it.  M.  Marche  is  engaged  in  exploring  the  whole 
archipelago,  and  has  spent  two  months  in  Saipan.  The  maps  of  the 
island  are  by  no  means  correct.  M.  Marcho,  after  a  thorough  explora- 
tion, "was  unable  to  discover  any  trace  of  a  volcano  or  volcanic  rocks, 
although  a  volcano  active  or  extinct  has  been  reported  to  exist  in  the 
island.  Tapochao,  the  highest  peak,  was  formerly  supposed  to  have  an 
elevation  of  2000  feet,  but  the  traveller's  two  barometers  show  its  height 
to  bo  1345  feet.  The  other  hills  do  not  exceed  from  600  to  700  feet  in 
height.  The  northern  point  of  the  island  terminates  in  a  mountain 
having  the  appearance  of  the  cliffs  at  Dieppe,  and  forming  a  long  narrow 
plateau.  There  is  very  little  fresh  water  in  the  island  ;  and  absolutely 
none  on  the  west  coast,  where  the  inhabitants  drink  the  brackish  water 
of  the  wells.  The  two  fresh-water  lakes  spoken  of  by  other  travellers 
are  nothing  but  ponds,  the  water  of  which  is  quite  unfit  to  drink. 

The  Emin  Pasha  Belief  Expedition. — The  unfavourable  rumours 
regarding  the  expedition  sent  to  the  relief  of  Emin  Pasha  which  have 
lately  found  their  way  into  the  papers  are  not  confirmed  from  Brussels. 
According  to  the  '  Mouvement  Geographique,'  no  news  had  been  received 
from  Stanley,  on  his  march  from  the  Aruwimi  to  the  Albert  Nyanza, 
since  the  8th  July,  when  he  communicated  with  Major  Barttelot  by  a 
Zanzibari  messenger,  saying  that  all  was  well.  The  steamer  Stanley, 
which  had  accompanied  the  expedition  up  the  Congo  and  returned  again, 
left  L6opoldville  on  July  4th  with  reserves  of  goods  and  a  reinforcement 
of  125  men,  and  reached  the  camp  of  Yambuya,  on  the  Aruwimi,  in  the 
first  week  of  August.    There  everything  was  found  in  a  most  satisfactory 


7«0 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


fitate;  the  native  population  sbowed  an  excellent  dispaBition  towards 
tbo  Europeans,  and  not  an  Arab  had  been  seen  anywhere  near.  Tippu 
Tib,  however,  bad  failed  to  koep  his  promise  of  furnishing  600  poi-tera 
to  carry  the  loads  left  behind  by  the  expedition,  and  Major  Barttelot 
was  send  in  <2:  to  Stanley  Falls  to  inquire  about  tbis. 

Dr.  KrauBe  in  Upper  0uiiiea.— Dr.  G.  A.  KrauKt*  writes  to  us  on  the 
28tb  September  last  from  Accra  (Gold  Coast)»  where  he  arrived  on  the 
23rd  Septeralier,     He  h-ft  Salaga,  having  rested  for  mme  weeks  aft^r  hi.s 
extensive  travels  *  in  the  north,  on  the  1st  of  June.     His  route  lay  in  an 
easterly  direction,  and  after  cros^sing  the  large  river  Li  and  a  moan  tain 
range  of  moderate  height,  ho  arrived  at  Soguede  on  the  15th  of  the  same 
mouth.     This  town  is  inhabited  exclusively  by  the  Mohammedans  of 
the  tril>e  of  the  Tembia  or  KotoltoVi.    He  states  that  if  he  could  have 
foreseen  the  toils  and  suiferings  which  he  was  destined  to  endnre  on  the 
march  from  Sognede  to  the  Slave  Coast,  he  would  have  continued  his 
journey  eastwards  to  the  Niger.     However,  he  turned  his  steps  to  the 
south,  and  travelled  by  way  of  Beleta  or  Angninga,  the  centre  of  the 
salt  trade  in  those  regions,  and  Gbe^hi  or  Pekji  to  Atakpame.     He  had 
to  cross  the  Mono  twice  in  boats  (the  river  is  called  ^I'jele  further  north), 
and  to  wade  through  its  western  tributary,  the  Angai,  three  tinies^     In 
Beleta,  as  in  Gbeshi,  which  lies  about  four  days'  march  from  Agbonie, 
op]x>sitiou  was  id  ado  to  the  tnivellcr's  further  progress.     On  two  occasions 
he  BUCC^eL'dt'd  by  nocturnal  iigbts  in  pushing  forward,  liut  was  eom- 
pelled  to  leave  his  collections  and  Imggage  behind  in  Beleta.     The  latter 
town  is  inhabited  by  the  Kimbulu,  Gbeshi  by  tho  Koshi  tribes  of  the 
Ewe,  and  Atakpi*me  by  the  An  ago  s  of  the  Joruba.     From  Atnkpamo  a 
mfikTch  of  four  days  brought  the  traveller  t*>  Togodo,  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  Mono,  which  at  ibis  pjint  commences  to  bo  navigable.     On  the  way 
ho  had  passed  the  town  of  Mono,  where  a  greater  river,  the  Amu-Tsu  (?), 
had  to  bo  crossed.     ^Vfttr  a  boat-journey  of  two  days  he  reached  the 
coast   at  Pla  (Great  Popo)  on  the   25th  August.     Without  delay  he 
marched  along  tho  coast  toBagida,  and  thence  to  Accra,  ten  days  dista^nt. 
He  intended  to  despatch  two  men  to  recover,  if  possible,  his  lost  ool- 
lectiona,  &c.     Tbo  latter  includo  from  600  to  800  idants,  and  seeds  of 
numerooa  cultivatedjilants,  a  small  number  of  beetles,  bntterflies,  and 
other  insects,  and  some  remains  of  pre-historie  settlements  l>etween  Mosi 
and  Timbuktu.     Since  leaving  Salaga  he  had  suffered  from  thirteen 
slight  fever  attacks,  for  which  the  fever-plant  found  by  him  in  the 
country  of  tho  Gunaisi  proved  a  snre  remedy.     Dr.  Krause  in  liis  letter 
stiites  that  he  is  absolutely  withont  means,  even  to  pay  his  passage  back 
to  Europe. 

An  Adventurous  Journey  in  the  Western  Sahara. — The  Geographical 
Society  of  Paris  has  received  a  letter  from  M,  Bonis,  giving  particulaiB 
^*  *  Pnioeedings  aQ.8./  1887,  p,  511. 


[  GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  761 

of  a  remarkable  journey  made  by  him  through  previonsly  unexplored 
parts  of  the  Westom  Sahara.  The  traveller,  in  the  disguise  of  a 
Mussulman,  landed  from  a  Canary  Island  fishing-boat  on  the  coast  at  a 
point  between  Cape  Bojador  and  the  Rio  de  Oro.  The  first  Moors  ho 
encountered  suspected  him  and  made  him  prisoner.  After  being  kept 
in  chains  for  a  long  penod,  he  managed  by  persevering  in  his  role  to 
save  his  life,  and  after  being  tried  several  times  he  was  allowed  his 
liberty  and  admitted  as  a  '*  brother  "  into  the  tribe,  which  proved  to  be 
a  section  of  the  terrible  Ulad  Delim,  the  robbers  of  the  Western  Sahara. 
For  five  months  in  company  with  these  Bohemians  of  the  desert  he 
wandered  over  unexplored  steppes,  continually  on  the  march.  In  their 
company  he  reached  the  limit  of  the  desert  of  Uarau  and  Djuf,  the  great 
depression  of  the  Sahara.  His  compass  and  barometer  having  been 
returned  to  him,  he  was  able  to  make  some  interesting  observations. 
Then  turning  to  the  north,  he  passed  near  the  sebka  of  Zemmur,  of 
which  he  determined  the  exact  position ;  Panet  placed  it  far  too  much 
to  the  north.  He  surveyed  also  the  course  of  the  Saguiat-el-Hamra, 
which  had  not  previously  been  ascended.  At  the  end  of  March  he  was 
in  Tenduf,  the  great  slave-market  of  North  Sahara.  Since  1880  (time 
of  Dr.  Lenz's  visit)  this  oasis,  he  states,  has  greatly  increased  in  size 
Returning  in  the  direction  of  Cape  Juby,  he  crossed  the  fertile  and  little 
known  plains  of  the  Ketaua  and  the  Tekna.  Between  Tarfaya  and  Uad 
Nun  the  monotonous  surface  of  the  Sahara  changes  its  aspect,  and  becomes 
rugged  and  uneven,  with  valleys  and  rocky  hills.  These  are  the  beds 
of  former  rivers  destroyed  by  upheavals,  and  which  must  at  one  time 
have  fertilised  these  now  desolate  regions.  The  chief  of  Uad  Nun,  on 
the  recommendation  of  the  Moors,  accorded  M.  Douls  warm  hospitality. 
He  took  final  leave  of  the  nomads  at  Glimin ;  they  went  south  along 
the  steppes,  while  he  proceeded  north  along  the  Atlas  range.  Coming 
from  the  south  almost  without  clothing,  and  with  the  appearance  of  a 
nomad,  he  managed  to  pass  through  the  country  of  the  Berbers  of  Sus 
without  attracting  attention.  Crossing  the  Atlas  he  reached  the  city  of 
Morocco,  and  sought,  as  suggested  by  the  chief  of  Uad  Nun,  an  inter- 
view with  Abidin,  the  brother  of  the  latter,  who,  however,  was  sus- 
picions of  the  traveller,  and  communicated  with  the  Sultan.  He,  furious 
at  the  idea  of  a  European  having  got  into  his  country  from  the  south, 
ordered  M.  Douls  to  be  put  in  chains  and  thrown  into  a  dungeon.  By  a 
happy  coincidence,  on  the  evening  of  his  arrival,  the  English  Embassy 
under  Sir  Kirby  Green  also  reached  the  town.  Upon  the  representations 
of  the  latter  M.  Douls  was  released,  otherwise  his  position  would  have 
been  a  serious  one.  From  this  remarkable  journey  through  country 
absolutely  free  from  all  contact  with  Europeans,  the  traveller  has 
brought  back  a  wealth  of  information,  important  alike  to  geography 
and  ethnography. 


762 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


The  G  ulf- Stream.— Tn  1886  M.  J.  Thoulet  mftde  a  series  of  obser- 
vations on  the  Gnlf-etrcain,  oii  tlie  frigate  Clorinde^  from  France  to 
NewfoiiTullsmd  and  back.  On  tlie  basin  of  tbese,  combined  with  the 
researches  of  BIr.  Buchanan  on  board  the  CJialienger,  he  prepared  a 
scries  of  scctioua,  longitmiinal  and  triinsverse,  of  tho  stream ;  and  th« 
results  of  his  work,  some  of  them  rather  novel,  have  just  been  presented 
to  the  Paris  Academy  of  Sciences  by  M.  Bonquet  de  la  Grye.  His 
i>]>servati<in8  were  mainly  with  refcrenco  to  the  two  jo^rcat  conditions  of 
tcmperatnre  and  t^alinity,  by  means  of  which  a  sort  of  isographic  plan^ 
of  tho  ocean  ci»nld  bo  preparcMl,  showing  its  currents  gliding  down  the 
slope  of  ono  density  to  another.  Tho  Gulf -stream,  M.  Thonlct  tells  us, 
IB  like  a  river  :  its  cetitre-line,  sloping  all  along  its  length,  has  a  steeper 
slope  near  its  source  than  at  its  emboucliure.  A  valley,  with  relatively 
abmpt  slope,  separates  it  on  the  left  bank  from  the  United  Statea 
current  coming  from  Newfoundland^  and  moving  southwards.  Its  right 4 
flank,  with  a  softer  elope,  turned  oldiqtiely  towards  the  oc^an,  presents 
a  much  more  cons  id  era!  do  breadth,  and  thus  is  explained  the  con- 
veyance of  floating  wood  from  America  towards  the  north-west  of 
Europe.  The  great  St.  Lawrence  cnrrtiit,  passing  into  the  Atlantio  ■ 
between  the  little  Island  of  St.  Paul  and  Cape  Bxet.T  island,  colKde«f 
with  tho  Gulf-stream»  lessens  its  speed,  and  leaves  as  a  sort  of  sub- 
marine delta,  tho  banks  extending  along  the  United  States,  to  the  Great 
Bank  of  NcwfLmndland.  The  eastern  Polar  current,  coming  from  Baffin's  ' 
Bay,  skirts  Newfound hitid,  and  ends  by  striking  the  Gulf-stroam  at 
right  angles.  Contrary  to  what  would  be  expected,  its  waters,  though 
colder,  are  a  little  lighter,  according  to  Mr.  Thoulet,  so  that,  instead  of 
passing  nnderncath  the  hotter  waters  of  the  Gulf-stream,  it  mixes  with 
them,  almost  entirely  arresting  their  speed.  This  mixture  of  waters  is 
promoted  by  the  melting  and  capsizing  icebergs.  After  meeting  with 
the  eastern  Polar  current,  according  to  M.  Thoulet,  the  Gulf-stream  no 
longer  exists,  so  to  speak.  Its  cooled  waters  arc  spread  out,  although 
they  retain  a  general  north-easterly  direction.  The  Gnlf-stream  is  then, 
M.  Thoulet  concludes,  in  the  best  condition  to  moderate  the  climate  of 
Western  Europe,  but  it  has  no  longer  any  individuality  ;  it  has  beoome 
a  simple  derivative  without  depth,  and  may  bo  compared  to  a  powerful 
river  which  is  lost  in  the  marshes.  We  may  point  out  that  M,  Thou  let's 
views  do  not  essentially  differ  from  those  of  Mr.  Findlay,  tho  latter  going 
even  further  than  the  former,  arguing  that  tho  CTulf-stream  actually 
ceased  in  the  ncighbjurhoodof  Newfoundland,  and  that  tho  mild  climate 
of  Western  Europe  was  duo  entirely  to  other  causes.  Mr.  Findlay's  I 
paper,  *  Proe,  B.G.S.,'  vol.  xiii.  p.  102,  with  the  interesting  discussion 
which  followed,  is  well  worth  studying.  This  is  essentially  the  con- 
clusion come  to  as  a  result  of  the  Challenger  investigations,  though  it 
will  probably  take  a  generation  or  two  to  eradicate  the  old  erroneous 
notions  of  text-books  and  popular  treatises. 


fc_ 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


763 


The  Climates  of  the  Olobe.— General  de  Tillo  has  presented  to  the  Paria 
Academy  of  Scieoces  an  account  of  his  recent  researches  on  the  distribution  of 
atmospheric  temperature  and  pressure  on  the  surface  of  the  globe.  Among  other 
conclusions  which  he  reaches  are  these :  The  northern  hemisphere  contains  14  per 
cent,  of  cold  regions,  35  per  cent,  of  temperate  regions,  and  51  per  cent  of  hot 
regiohs.  Dr.  Supan,  by  a  different  method,  finds,  for  the  same  regions,  15,  32,  and 
53  per  cent,  respectively.  The  Continents  as  a  whole  are  3**  Cent,  colder  than  the 
Oceans,  between  90°  N.  and  50°  S.  lat.  The  New  Continent  is  3°  Cent,  colder  than 
the  Old  Continent.  The  Atlantic  is  2° '6  colder  than  the  Pacific.  Thus  the  New 
Continent  with  the  Atlantic  is  sensibly  colder  than  the  Old  World  with  the  Pacific; 
and  all  the  Continents  with  the  Atlantic  are  colder  than  the  Pacific.  General  de  Tillo 
gives  the  following  classification  of  the  Continents  and  Oceans  according  to  their 
mean  annual  and  monthly  temperatures,  in  degrees  Centigrade  : — 

Mean 
January.  Temp. 

Australia  ..  ..  +  2§-4 
S.America  ..  ..  +  25-1 
Africa +  237 


Year. 


Mean 
Temr. 


Africa +  26*4 


S.  America  . . 
Australia  . . 
Indian  Ocean 

Pacific 

All  Oceans* 

Atlantic 

Old  Continent     . 

All  Continents*  . 

Now  Continent  . 

Asia  and  Kurope 

N.  America 


+  230 

+  22-3 

+  20-4 

.   +  19-6 

.   +  18-3 

.   +  17-0 

.   +158 

.   4-  1^-0 

:^%  l2-9 

+  10-0 

.    +    4-7 


All  Oceans* 
All  Continents*  .. 
Old  Continent     . . 
New  Continent  .. 
Asia  and  Europe 
N.  America . . 


+  17-9 
+    7*3 


6-4 
5-3 
30 

8-7 


Mean 
Jaly.  Temp. 

Africa +  2?*1 


Old  Continent 
Asia  and  Europe 
All  Continents    . . 
S.  America  .. 
New  Continent  . . 
N.  America  . . 
Ail  Oceans  .. 
Australia     .. 


+  24-5 
+  23' 1 
+  22-9 
+  20-9 
+  20-2 
+  19-7 
+  19-2 
+  16-4 


•  Between  90°  N.  and  60°  S.  lat. 


Fopulation  of  the  Earth. — Professor  E.  Levasseur  has  drawn  up  for  the 
Journal  of  the  International  Statistical  Institute  a  long  and  elaborate  series  of  tables 
of  the  populations  of  the  various  continents  and  countries,  and  their  subdivisions, 
which  may  be  taken  as  a  substitute  for  the  long-deferred  new  issue  of  the '  Bevolkerung 
der  Erde,'  if  indeed  the  latter  has  not  been  suppressed  entirely.  M.  Levasseur  gives 
the  population  of  the  latest  census  years,  as  also  estimates  (when  there  has  been  no 
census)  for  1886.  The  following  are  some  of  the  general  results  of  M.  Levasseur's 
work : — 


Great  Divisions  of  Globe. 


Area  in 
;  Thousands  of 
j  Square  Miles. 


Percentage 
of  ToUl 
Surface. 


Popniatlon 
in  Milliona. 


Density 

per  Square 

Mile. 


Percentage 

of  I'oUl 

Population. 


Arctic  Ocean 
Antarctic  Ocean 
Atlantic        „ 
Indian  ,. 

Pacitio  .        „ 

The  five  Oceans 


I 


4,632 

8.108 

38,612 

26,256 

66,799 


Europe  .. 
Africa  . . 
Asia 

Oceania  ♦ 
North  America 
JSouth  America 


114,407 

3,861 
12,124 
16,217 
4,247 
9,035 
7,066 


Five  Land  Parts  of  Globe 


52,550 


2-3 

4-1 

19-0 

13-3 

34-0 


73-3 


6-1 
8-2 
2-2 
4-6 
3-6 


26-7 


Total     196,957       100*0 


347 

197 

789 

38 

80 

32 


90 

16 

47 
9 

8-8 
4-6 


23-4 

13-3 

53-2 

2-6 

5-4 

2-1 


1.483 


100-0 


*  Including  Malaysia  and  Australasi*. 

No.  XII.— Dec.  1887.J 


8  H 


764 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES, 


In  a  comtnimication  to  the  Paris  Actidemy  of  Scieoces  on  tbe  subject,  M.  Levasseur 
points  out  that  nearly  two-thii-da  of  tlie  liumaa  race  live  grouped  on  a  relatively 
Bin  all  area  of  4,256,000  tquara  milea  (about  one- twelfth  of  the  land  aiea),  divided 
into  three  gronpi :  Western,  Centrftl,  and  Sautliem  Euroj>o  (about  245  millionB  of 
inhabitants  and  l»351,O0O  square  miles);  the  Indian  Empire  (245  millions  of  inha- 
bitants and  1,380,000  square  miles);  China  proper  with  Manchuria  and  Japan 
(430  millions  of  inhabitants  and  1^44,500  square  miles).  Olher  conclusions  M. 
Levaaaeur  points  out,  some  of  them  obvious.  Thus  the  most  populous  regions  are 
found  along  the  great  rivers,  in  many  cases  on  the  coasts;  coal-basins  attract  a 
population  far  more  than  valleys ;  great  cities  exercise  a  sort  of  magnetic,  or  rather 
gravitating  influt^nce  on  people.  In  Europe  especially,  countries  being  in  general 
peopled  in  proportion  to  their  riches,  when  the  social  condition  of  their  inhabitants 
is  nearly  the  same,  it  is  in  the  north-west  and  centre  of  Europe  that  we  find  tho 
greatest  density.  High  plateaus,  the  Borthern  regions  to  the  north  of  the  parallel  of 
St.  Petersburg,  and  the  barren  steppes  of  the  south-west,  are  but  scantily  populated. 

The  Society's  Educational  Collection,— A  selection  of  objects  from 
the  Society'a  Ex:hibition  of  1885-G»  with  others  since  added,  is  now 
arranged  in  a  room  at  the  Society's  offices,  I,  Savile  Eow,  and  is  open 
for  the  inspection  of  teachers  and  others  interested  in  geographical 
edncation, 

Geography  at  the  approaching  Brussels  Exhibition.  —  At  the  Inter- 
national Exhibition  to  be  held  in  Brubsols  next  year,  a  special  section  will 
he  devoted  to  topography,  geography,  cosmography,  and  the  related 
sciences.  We  are  asked  to  draw  attention  to  the  classes  of  ohjecta  which 
aro  desired  for  coutribntion  to  the  Kcction.  Thoy  are : — (1)  Maps  and 
atlases,  topographical,  geographical,  geological,  hydro  graphical,  astrono- 
mical, S:c,  (2)  Physical  maps  of  all  kinds,  plans  in  relief,  terrestrial  and 
celestial  globes  and  spheres,  (3)  Statistical  works  and  diagrams,  tahlea 
and  ephemeriils  for  the  use  of  astronomers  and  navigators.  (4)  Genei-al 
treatises  and  classical  works.  (5)  Instruments,  aide-ra^raoires,  and 
articles  of  equipment  for  explorers.  Among  the  '*  Desiderata  *'  are  tho 
following:— (1)  The  best  map  of  the  Congo,  showing  the  most  recent 
discoveries ;  (2)  the  best  national  map  of  any  country ;  (3)  utilisation  of 
the  sheets  of  a  topographical  map  for  the  preparation  of  special  maps  on 
the  same  or  on  a  different  scale ;  (4)  the  execution  of  relief  map«  • 
(.5)  transference  of  relief  to  a  plane  surface;  (6)  construction  of  an 
apparatus  suitable  to  demonstrate  by  experiments  the  various  geogra- 
plrical  features  whicli  may  he  presented  by  a  river,  such  as  torrents^ 
lakes,  cataracts,  and  rapids,  erosions  and  alluvial  accumulations,  sub- 
terranean streams,  islands,  and  backwaters  (Jieuves  morts),  freezing  and 
breaking  up  of  the  ice,  floods,  formation  of  deltas,  bars,  &c. ;  (7)  cx>n» 
struction  of  a  tellurium;  (8)  portablo  equipment  for  an  explorer; 
(9)  statistical  atlases  and  globes.  The  President  of  the  section  is 
M.  Wauvermans,  and  the  Secretary,  onr  Honorary  Fellow,  Professor 
Dn  Du  Fief.     The  office  is  at  22,  Ene  des  Palais,  Brussels, 

Memorial  to  the  late  Admiral  Sir  Charles  F.  A.  Shadwell,  K.C.B., 
F.EJ.^ — A  fund  is  being  raised  by  a  committee,  of  which  Admiral  Sir 


I 


REPORT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS.  766 

A.  P.  Byder  is  the  chairman,  for  the  purpose  of  honouring  the  memory 
of  Sir  Charles  Shad  well,  by  establishing  an  annual  prize,  consisting  of 
surveying  instruments,  for  useful  marine  surveys  carried  out  and  pro- 
jected by  oflScers  of  not  higher  rank  than  lieutenant,  while  employed  in 
the  general  service.  The  late  Admiral  was  distinguished  in  the  Boyal 
Navy  for  his  many  admirable  qualities,  and  especially  for  his  knowledge 
of  practical  marine  surveying.  The  sum  required  is  lOOOZ.  A  sub- 
scription list  is  open  in  the  Map  Boom  of  the  Society. 


REPOET  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS,  SESSION  1887-8. 

First  Meeting,  November  14th,  1887. — General  B.  Strachey,  R.E.,  f.r.8.. 
President,  in  the  Gbair. 

Elections. — W,  E.  Garforthy  Esq, ;  James  T,  Jarvis,  Esq. ;  Captain  Augustus 
Kent;  Courtenay  Lord,  Esq.;  Sir  Alexander  Meadows  JRendel,  k.o.i.e. ;  Colin 
D.  JRosSy  Esq, ;  Benjamin  Taylor ,  Esq. ;  Dr.  JR.  Villavicencio  (Consul  for  the 
Republic  of  Venezuela) ;  William  Wallace,  Esq. ;  Spencer  John  Weston,  Esq. 

Presentation. — Mr.  M.  V,  Portman. 

The  President  opened  the  Session  with  the  following  address : — 

In  welcoming  you  on  the  occasion  of  the  first  meeting  of  the  Society 
in  the  present  session,  I  am  satisfied  that  you  will  join  with  me  in 
expressing  the  sincere  thanks  of  the  Fellows  to  the  authorities  of  the 
University  of  London  for  their  continued  kindness  in  permitting  us  to 
make  use  of  this  hall  for  our  meetings.  I  fear  that,  from  the  very 
nature  of  our  mutual  positions,  it  is  not  in  our  power  to  make  any 
return  to  the  University  in  a  direct  form,  but  perhaps  we  may  consider 
that  we  in  some  measure  discharge  the  obligation  by  the  contributions 
which  we  make  in  various  ways  to  the  improvement  of  geographical 
education  and  the  spread  of  geographical  knowledge. 

I  have  much  satisfaction  in  stating  that  the  lecturer  on  geography 
recently  appointed  by  the  University  of  Oxford — our  Associate,  Mr. 
Mackinder — ^has  commenced  his  lectures  under  very  favourable  auspices 
as  to  their  success,  and  with  increasing  indications  of  their  being 
appreciated  by  the  students  for  whom  they  are  designed. 

At  the  end  of  next  month,  moreover,  the  examinations  under  the 
Education  Department  will  take  place  for  the  selection  from  the  pupils 
at  the  Training  Colleges  of  those  to  whom  will  be  awarded  the  Society's 
Scholarships  and  Premiums,  and  early  next  year  we  shall  be  in  a  position 
to  judge  of  the  practical  working  of  this  part  of  our  general  scheme. 

Among  the  events  interesting  to  us  as  geographers,  which  have 
occurred  since  the  last  meeting  of  the  Society,  the  progress  of 
Mr.  Stanley  on  his  great  expedition  through  Central  Africa  for  the 
relief  of  Emin  Pasha  is  the  most  important.     It  will  be  fresh  in  your 

3  II  2 


76« 


REPOET  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETIKGS. 


recoUeotion  tlmt  your  Council  contributed  from  the  funds  of  the  Society 
lOOOL  towardfl  the  expenses  of  tliis  expedition,  with  a  view  to  that  sum 
being  applied  in  aid  of  the  geographical  exploration  of  the  country 
t ravers ed»  and  on  being  assure*!  that  the  results  of  the  exploration 
would  be  communicated  to  the  Society.  The  route  chosen  hj  Mr. 
Stanley,  up  the  Congo  and  its  northern  tributary  the  Aruwimi,  as  far 
as  that  river  was  navigable,  and  thence  across  to  the  Albert  Nyanza, 
would  lead  him  through  some  400  niiles  of  entirely  new  country,  which 
€0uhl  not  fail  to  yield  a  rich  harvest  of  new  facts  in  geography.  The 
expedition,  as  wo  have  been  informed  from  time  to  time  by  telegrams 
and  letters  which  have  been  published  in  the  daily  papers,  after  an 
arduous  journey  up  the  Congo,  reached  the  rapids  of  the  Aruwinai  on 
the  19th  of  June,  only  eight  days  later  than  the  estimated  time.  After 
establishing  a  stockaded  post  at  that  spot,  at  which  he  left  a  part  of 
his  followers  with  Mojor  Barttolot  and  Mr*  Jameson  (the  naturalist  of 
the  expedition),  Stanley,  on  the  28th  or  29th  of  June,  left  with  a  selected 
caravan  for  his  adventurous  land  march  through  the  unknown  country 
to  the  wee  fern  shore  of  the  Albert  Lake.  Details  of  this  journey  will 
be  anxiously  expected.  Meantime  Emin  Pasha  has  been  apprised  by 
messengers  eent  to  him  from  i^anzibar  of  the  relief  party,  and  all 
promises  well  for  the  success  of  this  great  expedition,  go  far  as  the 
geographical  objects  in  view  are  concerned.  What  may  be  the  inten- 
tions of  the  enterprising  man  in  whose  aid  the  expedition  was  planned 
is  still  somewhat  matter  of  conjecture,  but  for  my  own  part  I  have 
always  doubted  whether  he  ever  really  contemplated  leaving  the 
country  over  which  he  appears  still  to  exercise  rule  with  a  courage  and 
ability  which  is  well  worthy  of  our  admiration. 

\\  ith  regard  to  other  African  explorations,  the  most  striking  event 
is  the  ascent  of  Mount  Kilima-njaro  iu  August  last,  by  Dr.  Hans  Ma^^er 
of  Leipzig,  a  traveller  who  has  included  a  visit  to  the  newly  acquired 
German  territory  in  East  Africa,  in  his  contemplated  voyage  round 
the  world.  The  letter  in  which  he  has  briefly  described  his  foat 
to  his  friends  in  Germany,  states  that  the  ascent  occupied  five  days 
and  that  ho  reached  the  edge  of  the  crater  on  the  summit  of  Kibo,  the 
highest  peak,  but  was  prevented  from  descending  into  it,  as  we  gather, 
by  an  overhanging  glacier- wall  150  feet  high.  Great  credit  is  due  to 
Dr.  Mayer  for  accomplishing  what  had  foiled  the  efforts  of  all  preceding 
travellers.  He  estimates  the  height  of  the  summit  of  this  mountain  to 
exceed  19,500  feet. 

The  discovery  of  two  new  navigable  rivers  in  British  New  Guinea,  by 
one  of  our  Fellows,  Mr.  Theodore  Bevan,  is  another  noteworthy  event, 
intelligence  of  which  has  re^iched  us  since  we  last  met.  The  journey 
was  only  preliminary  to  a  more  thorough  exploration  which  this  en- 
thusiastic traveller  has  planned,  and  was  limited  in  duration  to  six 
weeks,  that  being  the  time  for  which  he  was  granted  the  use  of  a  small 
steamer    (from    ThurKday   Island    and    back    to   Torres*   Straits),  by 


■ 


B£PORT  OF  THE  EVENING  HEETlNGa  767 

the  public-spirited  firm  of  Burn,  Philp,  &  Co.  An  account  of  the  ex- 
pedition, with  a  map,  communicated  to  us  by  Mr.  Bevan,  has  been 
published  in  the  October  number  of  our  *  Proceedings.'  News  of 
another  exploring  journey  in  New  Guinea  has  also  lately  reached  us, 
namely,  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  range  which  stretches  along  the 
South-eastern  Peninsula,  of  which  Mount  Owen  Stanley  is  the  culmi- 
nating peak.  This  has  been  accomplished  by  Mr.  6.  Hunter  and  Mr. 
C.  H.  Hartmann,  the  former  a  Govemment  official,  long  resident  in  New 
Guinea,  and  familiar  with  the  native  language.  All  previous  attempts 
to  reach  the  mountains  have  been  made  from  Port  Moresby,  and  have 
been  frustrated  by  the  extreme  ruggedness  of  the  country  on  approach- 
ing the  main  peaks  in  that  direction,  and  the  hostility  of  the  inland 
tribes.  Messrs.  Hunter  and  Hartmann  succeeded  in  reaching  tho 
summit  of  the  range  where  its  altitude  is  much  less  by  taking  a 
route  to  the  south  of  Port  Moresby.  The  travellers  are  said  to  have 
taken  for  altitude  metisurements  only  one  aneroid  with  them,  and  that 
got  out  of  order,  so  that  the  height  reached  was  not  ascertained.  They 
attained  a  point,  however,  whence  a  view  was  obtained  of  open  country 
inland,  where  exploration  may  be  expected  to  be  easier  than  on  the 
densely  wooded  seaward  slopes  of  the  range. 

I  am  indebted  to  Mr.  Douglas  Freshfield,  one  of  our  Secretaries, 
for  the  following  notes  on  an  expedition  of  much  interest  to  us  which 
he  undertook  during  the  summer  in  company  with  Mons.  de  Dechy, 
in  the  heart  of  the  Caucasus.  Their  journey  (in  conjunction  with  those 
of  M.  de  Dechy  in  previous  years,  and  that  of  Messrs.  Dent  and  Donkin, 
of  the  Alpine  Club,  last  year)  will  help  to  establish  the  very  com- 
plicated relations  of  the  peaks,  passes,  and  glaciers  of  the  great  central 
group  or  massif  of  this  splendid  chain.  Of  this  group  the  position 
of  two  only  of  the  peaks  (Dikhtau,  16,925  feet,  and  Koshtantau,  17,095 
feet),  have  as  yet  been  fixed  by  tho  Russian  Surveying  Staff.  These  stand 
on  a  northern  spur.  Close  to  them,  on  or  near  the  watershed,  rise  four 
more  summits  all  exceeding  16,000  feet,  which  will  be  known  in  future 
to  geographers  as  Shkara,  Djanga,  Tetnuld,  and  Gestola,  some  of  them 
reaching  possibly  to  more  than  17,000  feet.  All  of  these,  and  also  the 
isolated  towers  of  XJshba,  exceed,  or  nearly  equal  in  height,  Kazbek 
(16,456  feet).  Two  current  delusions  of  orographers  must  now  bo 
finally  dismissed.  The  greatest  icefields  of  the  Caucasus  do  not  surround 
Elbruz,  but  lie  along  the  crest  of  the  main  chain  between  Suanitia 
and  Kabarddh.  This  portion  of  the  Caucasian  chain  is  far  more  heavily 
charged  with  ice  and  snow  than  even  the  Pennine  Alps.  The  statements 
so  often  made  as  to  the  comparatively  small  dimensions  of  the  Caucasian 
icefields  appear  to  have  had  no  better  foundation  than  the  reports  of 
tourists  from  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Dariel  Pass,  and  are  entirely 
misleading  when  applied  to  the  western  portion  of  the  range,  as  will  be 
conclusively  shown  by  M.  de  Dechy's  series  of  photographs.  It  may 
reasonably  be  expected  that  a  country  now  within  a  week's  journey  of 


res 


I{EPORT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS. 


England  may  become,  like  the  Alps,  a  British  playgronnd,  and  that  we 
may  before  long  liave  full  materials  for  a  physical  and  geological  com- 
pariflon  of  tho  etructure  of  these  two  "  palaces  of  nature,"  above,  aa  well 
as  below»  the  snow-line. 

Tho  results  of  the  expedition  of  the  French  Bavants,  Messrs, 
Bonvalot  and  Capus,  into  KuBsian  Tnrkistan,  ending  with  their 
ai  dnous  jonmey  across  the  Pamir  plateau  into  Chitral,  and  thence  into 
British  India,  will  no  doubt  soon  be  given  to  the  world,  and  may  be 
expected  to  add  much  to  our  knowledge  of  tho&e  inaccessible  regions. 

You  are  possibly  aware  that  a  project  has  been  formed  in  Yiotoria, 
which  ia  understood  to  have  received  tho  general  support  of  Yariona 
scientific  bodies  in  the  Australasian  Colonies,  for  undertaking  an  expeditioii 
into  the  Antarctic  Ocean  to  investigate  further  the  physical  oonditions  of 
that  very  imperfectly  known  region. 

Sir  G*  Berry,  the  Agent-General  of  tho  Colony  of  Yictoria,  has 
brought  the  subject  before  the  Council,  desiring  the  support  of  the 
Society  to  a  request  made  to  the  Treasury  on  behalf  of  the  Colony  for 
a  grant  of  5000^,  to  be  applied  with  a  like  amount  to  be  raised  in 
Australia  for  the  purposes  of  such  an  expedition ;  and  the  Council  have 
to-day  resolved  to  inform  the  Agent- General  of  their  completo  appre- 
ciation of  the  great  valwo  to  geographical  science  of  such  an  inveetiga* 
tion  as  that  projected,  and  their  readiness  to  make  a  representation  in 
this  sense  to  H.M.  Government, 

During  the  soaaion  now  opened  we  have  promise  of  numerous 
papers  relating  to  original  exploration  of  more  than  average  interest* 
At  our  next  meeting  a  communication  will  be  read  from  Mn  Carey  on 
his  very  remarkable  journey  from  Ladakh  through  Central  Asia,  and 
from  Lob  Nor  across  the  Altyn  Tagh  into  Northern  Tibet.  At  our 
December  meeting  Mr,  Daly,  already  known  to  us  for  his  explorations 
in  the  Malay  reninsuU,  will  read  us  a  paper  on  his  five  years*  surveys 
in  the  centre  of  North  Burneo.  After  Christmas  we  expect  papers  on 
tho  Soudan  by  Major  Watson  ;  on  Trade  Koutes  from  India  to  Tibet,  by 
Mr.  Ehves ;  on  the  Hudson's  Bay,  by  Commodore  Markham ;  and  on  an 
Exploration  of  the  Basin  of  the  Rio  Doce  in  Brazil^  by  Mr.  Steains.    ' 

The  palmer  of  the  evening  was  **  Explorationi  in  Siam,"  by  J.  McCarthy; — 
In  introducing  Mr,  McCarthy  to  the  meeting,  the  President  eaid  tbftt  bis  paper 
would  bo  ou  the  subject  of  tbe  survey's  which  bo  bfiH  been  conducting  during  the 
past  six  ytB.TA  m  the^ kingdom  of  Siam*  He  was  trained  in  the  excellent  echool  of 
tbe  Survey  of  India,  then  nndtr  General  Walker^  and  the  resulta  of  bis  labours  form 
a  most  remarkable  coutribiTtioii  to  txact  geographical  knowledge  of  a  vast  oountey, 
acquired  under  circumatancea  which  greatly  a<l«i  to  the  crC'lit  due  to  bim.  Much 
ailditional  interest  atUcheft  to  the  geoj^^raphy  of  Siam  from  its  close  connection  with 
that  of  Burma,  WeJ^tern  China,  Cam lKj<lii  and  Tongkins,  of  which  no  donbt  w©  shall 
bear  somelhing  in  tbe  tliscussion  of  the  i>ai>er,  in  which  we  hope  that  Mr*  Satow, 
the  British  Miuiater  at  the  Court  of  Siam,  who  is  here  this  evening,  will  take  a  part. 
Mr,  M*CarLhy's  fiaper  and  map  will  api>ear  in  a  eubsequent  number  of  tbe  *  Pro- 
eeedingfi.' 


(    769    ) 

PEOOEEDINGS  OP  THE  GEOGBAPHICAL  SECTION 
OP  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION. 

MANCHESTER  MEETING,  1887. 

Tuesdai/f  September  Qth  (concluded). 

Second  Report  of  a  Committee  for  inqniring  into  the  Depth  of  Per- 
manently Frozen  Soil  in  the  Polar  Regions.*  By  General  Sir  J.  H.Lbfkoy, 
B.A.,  K.o.M.a.  (Reporter). — The  Committee  have  received  a  valuable  communication 
from  Dr.  Percy  Matthews,  ll.d.,  coroner  for  the  North-west  Territories  of  the 
Dominion  of  Canada,  and  resident  medical  officer  at  York  Factory  on  Hudson's 
Bay,  of  which  an  analysis  is  subjoined  :— 

York  Factory,  lat.  57°  N.,  long.  92°  26'  W.  (No.  9  of  Report  of  1886).  Surface 
about  51  feet  above  sea-lcveU 

I.  Positive  evidence  of  the  depth  of  penetration  of  frost, 

(1)  1879-1886.  By  the  mean  of  seven  measurements  in  the  channel  of  Hayes 
river,  at  the  mouth  of  which  the  factory  is  situated.  Thickness  of  ice  in  January, 
February,  and  March,  6  feet  6  inches.  Hayes  river  has  been,  on  the  average  of 
the  last  30  years,  closed  to  navigation  on  Uie  26th  November,  and  reopened  on 
the  17th  May. 

(2)  1882-3.  By  the  mean  of  485  measurements  made  in  the  course  of  a  survey 
of  the  bed  of  Nelson  river  (about  seven  miles  north  of  York  Factory)  under 
direction  of  Mr.  H.  Jukes,  c.e.,  for  the  Winnipeg  and  Hudson's  Bay  R.R.  Company. 
Thickness  of  ice,  or  penetration  of  frost,  in  December,  January,  and  February, 
5  feet  10  inches. 


Experiment.  Alluvial 

Superficial 

Froxei 

I 

Soil. 

Soil. 

1885. 

No. 

Inches. 

Incbea. 

Inches. 

(3)  April  14 

..      514 

22 

None 

33 

Boring  continued  to  17  feet 
Very  dry  soil. 

1886. 

(4)  May  4 

..     517 

21 

2 

48 

Boring  continued  to  17  feet. 
Wet  soil.  20  inches  of 
snow  on  surface. 

(5)  May  28 

..     519 

21 

2i 

40 

Wet  soil. 

(6)  June  4 

..     521 

23 

7 

30 

Boring  continued  to  18  feet. 
Dry  soil. 

(7)  June  23 

..     526 

21 

14 

31 

Boring  continued  to  18  feet. 

(8)  Juno  25 

..     527 

65 

68 

A  stratum  of  three  inches 
of  frozen  water  was  found 
at  65  inches,  resting  on 
clay.t 

(9)  June  26 

..     528 

— 

14 

96 

Boring  continued  to  21  ft.J 

1881. 

(10)  July  23 

..       14 

20 

28 

38 

Boring  continued  to  10  feet 
Dry  soil. 

♦  Vide  *  Proceedings  R.G.S.,'  1886,  p.  740. 

t  The  MS.  gives  **  frost  penetration  3  inches,"  with  the  explanation,  *'  a  lodgement 
of  3  inches  of  frozen  water  over  clay  bed  at  65  inches."  Evidently,  therefore,  the  frost 
had  got  down  68  inches.    The  boring  was  continued  to  18}  feet. 

X  Dr.  Matthews  adds  the  following  note  to  this  observation:— Taken  in  a  dealing 


770 


PKOCEEBINGS  OF  THE  GEOGKAPHICAL  SECTION 


On  1st  July,  1886,  tlio  ^oil  of  Ko.  528  was  only  tlmwed  20  inches,  and  in 
anoUier  spot  Mitljin  tlie  clearing,  STJ  incbts.  On  fJth  September  following,  at 
140  yards  nortb  of  this  spot  the  soil  ^^aB  (rozin  to  a  depth  of  102  iDclieB,  with  51 
inches  of  thawed  ^^Tound  nt  the  Biirlrmi^  find  at  140  yards  south  of  the  B«toe 
spot  to  a  depth  of  1*4  inches,  with  42  inches  of  thawed  ground.  Other  measure- 
ments of  the  thawcil  ground,  September  4th  and  10th,  gave  respectively  60 
and  52  inchcB. 


II,  Fijcampks  of  excamtimi  or  horhg  without  Jtndwg  frozen  mil^  and  of 
svperfcial  thau\ 

1870,  Atip,n8t,  September.    In  excavating  a  dry  dock  at  York  no  frost  down  to 
36  feet. 

1879,  August  25tb.    300  yards  W, ;  t^OO  yards  K.W, ;  300  yards  S.  of  York.     In  a 

Bwamp,  no  frost  found  down  to  33  feet, 

1880,  August  lOth.     100  yards  S. ;  300  yards  S. ;  and  100  yards  aW.  as  before. 

Ko  frost  found  down  lo  33  feet. 
1682,  August  30lh  (see  below,  Severn  River), 

„     Septeraber  lOlh.     Six  graves  opened  in  an  old  Indian  burial-ground.     Depth 
of  alluvial  soil  48  inches.     No  frost  down  to  10  feet. 
The  burial-place  in  question  hns  been  disused  for  50  years,  and  the  refiulta  in 
surrounding  ground  which  has  never  been  disturbed  are  the  same. 
1884,  July  30th.     Four  graves  opetjed  ;   depth   of  alluvial   soil  40  inches.     Thin 

sandy  clay  ;  no  frost  down  to  IC  feet. 
1886,  May  28th.     In  a  garden  at  York,  thaw  71  to  9  inches. 

Landslipi  Hayes  ri I'lT. 

1884,  Jnly  15th.     1  he  thawed  soil  was  36  inches  in  depth. 

1885,  June  18th,     The  thawed  soil  was  29  inches  in  blue  clay,  37  inches  in  white 

clay, 

1886,  June  14th.     The  thawed  soil  was  28  inches. 

„     Sept.  10th,     On  a  much  exposed  portion  of  the  bank  of  Hayes  river,  dry 
soil,  there  was  no  frost  down  to  16  feet. 

The  following  are  also  given  as  observed  depth  of  thaw  in  or  near  York  Factory^ 
that  of  the  frost  below  not  havini:'  been  measured. 


1886,  May  28th. 

„     May  3l8t. 

„     Jime  14  th. 

„     July     Ist. 

„      3rd. 


Garden  at  York,  in  dry  soil,  7i  inches  ;  in  wet  soil,  9  inches. 
In  a  swanjp  1000  yards  south  of  tlie  fiictory,  10  to  12  inches* 
Garden  at  York,  average  IB  inches. 
In  the  swam  J),  36  inches. 
After  two  days*  rain»  37  inchea. 


the  barest  snd  moat  bh  ak  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Yurk,  It  is  nearly  at  all  tunea  freed 
from  its  winter's  snow  by  I  he  netion  of  iioree  winter  gnles  Bwee])it)g  over  Hudson's  Bay, 
So  that  its  soil  ia  fully  uxposed  to  the  greatest  deg^ree  of  froat  penetration  poBsible,  not  only 
from  above  downwnrda,  but  fruni  its  position,  ktt rally:  therefore,  having  selected  thia^ 
th©  most  expose<l  »ile  obtainable,  I  hiul  a  trench  dug  10  feet  in  length  down  to  the  noo- 
frozen  subgoil,  Tliia  experiment,  together  with  suhscqneot  ones,  ia  in  my  opinion 
conclusive,  inasmuch  as  1  consider  it  inctinjites  the  greatest  depth  of  frost  penetration 
in  and  around  York  of  late  years,  and  mtiy  certainly  be  runked  as  perpetual  ice,  but 
npun  a  ficale  so  small  as  to  he  wholly  comprisedj  as  fjir  as  my  experience  goe^,  within 
It)  acres.  To  give  an  idea  of  quarrying  in  frozen  ground  in  June,  1  may  mention  that 
I  had  an  Indian  working  hm-d  for  three  diiys  to  obtain  the  above  information. 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION.  771 

188G,  Aug,    2ud.  In  the  swamp,  48  inch  eg,  12  borings. 

,t  t«        t.  Open  ground,  40  inches,  £>  boringa, 

„  „      15tb.  In  the  swamp,  49  tnchea,  15  borings. 

»  H      20th.  „  56      „      12       ,, 

„  „      25  th.  „  U     fett,    12       „ 

„  Sept.  1st.  j,  15      „        3      „      after  heavy  rain* 

n  „       8th.  „  30      ,,        3       „ 

The  general  fiummnry  of  the  aulhor  from  8  years*  oljservation,  is — 
The  greatest  depth  at  which  the  soil  wm  found  frozen  was  102  inches. 

„        „  „      of  thaw  having  frozen  soil  below  it  was  52  inches, 

„        „  „      reached  without  finding  frost,  33  feet. 

The  mean  temjieratiire  by  9  years'  observation?,  is  lli**'4  F, 
Mean  rainfall  22-98  inchen. 

„      BDowfall  47*9L      „ 

1882.    At  tlie  river  Severn,   lat.  56^*  or  I*'  BoiUh   of  York  Factory,  in  making 
a  ciUtlng  for  a  jetty,  in  August,  no  frost  was  found  at  15  feet  down. 

To  hts  tabular  statement  the  author  ha«  addefl  the  following:  "  Notea  on  the  table 
of  ex(^»erimentB  for  ascertaining  the  depth  of  frost  and  thaw  penetration,  York 
Factory,  lludsons  Bay  "  ;— 

*Mn  briefly  examining  the  accompanyinf;  list  of  experiments,  it  will  at  once  Ikj 
realised  that  m  many  variable  conditions  have  to  be  taken  into  consideration  in 
connection  with  frost  penetration,  that  it  is  imjioseible  to  form  any  estimate  other 
than  that  based  upon  a  series  of  ex[)erimenls  carried  over  a  nnmber  of  years.  For, 
in  the  firet  place,  the  extent  of  the  winter's  fro^t  must  be  dependent  upon  locality 
(including  soil,  exposure,  drainage),  season,  and  certainly  from  my  experience,  upon 
the  snowfall,  be  it  early  or  late,  much  or  little  ;  just  as  the  depth  of  the  sumraer's 
thaw,  though  subject  in  a  negative  sense  to  likt;  conditions,  is  to  a  great  extent 
dependent  upon  the  rainfall.  For  inatanc*?,  reverting  to  six  experiments  above 
catalogued  (Nos.  14,  614,  517,  519,  521,  526)  carried  out  in  the  York  churchyard 
(a  site  which  is  protected  by  surrounding  willows,  pallisading,  &c.,  and  so 
thoroughly  in  the  lee  that,  when  the  country  lying  beyond  is  bare,  it  maintains  its 
covering  of  certainly  20  inches  of  snow  throughout  the  winter),  the  soil  is  there 
found  to  be  frozen  to  an  average  depth  of  three  feet  only,  whereas  within  350  yards, 
we  learn  from  Ejjieriroents  lS'o»  528  and  two  others,  that  under  exactly  opposite 
coiiditiouB  a  depth  of  ujnvarda  of  eight  feet  of  frost  ia  attained.  Again,  on  the 
same  principle,  if  the  snowfall  ia  late,  the  soil  will  naturally  be  found  to  be  frozen 
far  deei>er  tijan  when  it  early  covers  the  ground,  even  as  the  rainfall,  if  greal 
durinj;  the  summer,  independeiilly  of  season,  exercises  a  considerable  influence  in 
determining  both  the  rapidity  and  the  j)enetTation  of  the  thaw. 

"In  venturing  to  offer  some  explanation  of  Sir  John  Eichardson's  statement  *  that 
the  soil  was  found  frozen  to  a  depth  of  nearly  20  feet  at  York  Factory,'  apart  from 
the  consideration  of  it  being  a  severe  season,  which  it  undoubtedly  was  (for  on 
referring  to  old  records  I  find  that  the  winter  of  1834-5  was  exceptionally  severe),  I 
would  in  all  deference  submit  from  observations  of  my  own  ufxin  this  point,  that  the 
measurement  alluded  to  gave  but  a  section  of  the  lateral  freezing  of  a  landslip — for 
in  Bounding  the  'face'  of  a  perpundicular  hank,  say  40  feet  in  height  for  frost 
penetration,  the  frost  will  be  found  at  its  depth  in  relative  pro[K>rtion  to  the  height 
of  the  bank,  making  all  due  allowance  for  the  varying  of  its  penetrative  action  in 
differing  strata — but  if  the  bank  be  not  perpendicular,  but  sloping,  the  froet  follows 
the  dechvity,  and  a  portion  of  the  thawtd  surface  (probably  due  to  heavy  rains) 
slides  over  the  frozen  subsoil,  and  impinging  on  the  denser  structure,  abruptly 


773 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


breaks  ofi"  at  Ibe  point  where  the  froat  action  is  clieckod,  and  gliding  od,  thus 
exposes  a  thawed  surface,  leaviag  a  deceptive  froBt-Iine  far  below  the  true  ooe, 
which  upon  a  cursory  examination  leads  to  the  8U|>]>osition  that  the  ice  peoetratioa 
k  i^reater  than  it  really  k.    Though  this  m  coiijecture  as  regarding  the  statemeat  ia 


Bongh  Diagram  of  Landslip  in  Hayea  Kiver :  apparent  fro»t  penetration  of  over 
14  ftiot  pro  rod  to  be  only  4  feet, 

question,  I  liiivo  the  rather  endeavoured  to  illustrate  not  only  what  I  have  witnesaeii 
my  self,  hut  that  which  may  be  an  explanation  of  the  depth  of  frost  alluded  to  in 
this  pHrticulnr  instance* 

"  But  in  further  reference  to  Sir  John  Richardson's  statement  *  that  the  aoil  wa« 
found  frozen  to  a  depth  of  nearly  20  ftet  at  York  Factory,'  I  must  not  omit  the  fact 
that  Mr.  George  Glad  man,  a  chief  factor  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company^s  Service, 
in  hia  evidence  before  the  Select  Committee  of  the  House  of  Commons  in  1H67,  says, 
*  pita  were  dug  there  (York)  with  a  view  of  ascertaining  the  depth  of  ground 
thawed  during  summer;  repeated  digs^in::;®  ghowed  about  three  feet  of  thawed 
ground,  whilst  the  perpetually  frozen  ground  was  found  to  be  15  feet  deep.'  In 
this  connection,  although  fully  admitting  its  corroborative  force,  I  cannot  but  point 
out  n  discrejjancy  of  nearly  5  feot  (4  feet  10  inches)  existing  between  Sir  John 
EichardBon'a  experiment  aud  those  carried  out  by  Mr,  Gladman,  the  same  year^ 
plainly  indicating  that  the  site  of  Sir  Jolm  Richardson*s  experiment  muiJt  have  been 
exceptional,  as  1  have  btfuve  inferred.  Jn  passing  on  to  Mr.  Gladman*s  experimentF, 
it  must  he  noted  that  the  climate  of  York  has  undergone  a  considerable  change, 
even  within  the  hist  fifty  yearns ;  indeed,  quoting  from  Mr,  Gladman*s  later  evidence, 
he  says  that  *  turnips  aod  jj;ard en-stuff  failed  at  York  on  account  of  the  nearness  of 
the  sea,  the  severity  of  the  seasons,  and  summer  frosts/  Wliereas  now,  speaking 
from  a  personal  exjierience  of  upwards  of  eight  years,  I  may  say  that  no  difficulty 
whatever  exists  in  providing  the  esUblishment  with  very  passable  potatoes,  ei* 
cellent  turnips,  and  seveml  kinds  of  'garden  stuff,'  and  that  many  kinds  of  flowering 
plants  thrive  in  the  ot^en  air.  The  country  surrounding  York  fifty  years  ago  was 
thickly  wooded,  and  more  swampy  than  it  now  is;  evidence  of  its  being  so  ia 
present  to-day  in  the  innumerable  grassy  hillocks  dotted  around  the  settlement^ 


•  It  is  to  be  observed  of  the  above  diagrani,  tlmt  if  the  line  of  fracture  instend  of 
being  only  some  four  or  ^ve  feet  back  from  the  cfd^je  of  the  bLink  had  been  twice  or  thrico 
that  distance,  tho  whoU-  frozen  part  would  have  disappeared  and  the  section  have  di«- 
eloscd  the  leal  depth  of  the  fruet,  pmvided  the  slip  occurred,  na  they  lutially  do,  at  & 
|>eriod  of  the  year  too  advanced  for  the  new  face  to  freeze  to  any  depth. 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION. 


773 


formed  by  the  decayed  a  tamps  of  trees  forced  up  out  of  tho  ground  by  the  comprca- 
sive  actioa  of  frost.  Therefore,  uoder  these  altered  conditions,  Dot  only  would  the 
frost  penetration  be  deepr,  the  thaw  be  leas,  hut  *  j>erpetiial  ice  *  would  extend  at 
a  greater  depth  over  a  much  larger  area  than  it  now  does*  Something  may  also  be 
attributed  to  a  disposition  which  prevailed  among  the  older  generation  of  fur- traders 
to  mioimise  the  suitability  of  t!)e  Xorth-west  fur  ugricultiiral  settlement. 

**  I  am  not  in  a  position  to  offer  any  very  satUfactory  explanation  as  to  the  frost 
pcnetmtion  being  so  relatively  small  at  York,  conBidcrtng  tho  mean  tempeniture  of 
the  year,  beyond  statiog  that  the  surroundiDg  country  contaius  numerous  springs, 
which  may  be  readily  tapped  at  aoy  time  during  the  winter ;  that  the  subsoil  is  ciay> 
though  this  perhaps  hardly  bears  upon  the  question  when  closely  examiiied. 
Doubtless,  the  inconsiderable  height  above  the  sea-level,  and  *  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  a  large  body  of  unfrozen  water,'  are  important  factors,  and  do  exercise  &  great 
influence  upon  the  surrouuding  countrj%  although  I  must  not  omit  the  more  Imme- 
diate bordering  of  some  miks  of  frozen  water  for  upwards  of  five  months  in  the  year. 
As  to  whether  the  i>eaty  formation  of  much  of  its  soil  has  any  appreciable  influence 
in  ab^rbing  and  accumulating  the  intense  tropical  heat  of  summer  is  a  question 
beyond  my  humble  ken,  but  that  the  frozen  subsoil  acts  as  a  'provision'  in  the 
earlier  part  of  summer,  in  counteractiog  the  effects  of  such  heat  as  regardiog  vegeta- 
tion, is  a  fact  that  can  be,  in  my  opinion,  incontestably  proved  in  aome  parts  of  tho 
country  immediately  surrounding  York/' 

In  a  second  communication,  dated  27th  July,  1887j  Dr.  Matthews,  in  answer  to 
questions,  reiterates  his  belief  that  no  permanently  frozen  ground  now  exists  at 
York  Factory,  with  the  sligiit  qualifications  stated  above  : — 

"  The  climate  has  unquestionably  changed,  and  tlie  surface  vegetation  equally. 
The  prepuce  of  grass>  superseding  moss,  of  itself  would  materially  influence  frost 
ixnetration,  but  with  the  drying  up  of  the  country,  owing  to  many  causes  (uprising 
of  the  land,  &c,)i  the  frost  penetration  would  bo  less.  The  surface  vegetation  is,  in 
my  opinion,  a  more  important  factor  than  water/* 

He  quotes  Indian  testimony  as  well  as  comparison  of  records  to  prove  that  the 
rivers  open  about  a  week  earlier  and  close  about  a  week  later  than  they  did 
50  years  ago* 

The  Committee  are  indebted  to  Dr.  J.  Rae  for  the  following  communication : — 
The  station  in  question  is  only  a  little  north  and  east  of  No.  20  in  the  first  report. 

Ice  in  ground.  By  Frederick  C.  Baker,  Binscartb,  Manitoba. — Twenty-threQ 
observations  taken  in  the  pmirie  lands  of  Manitoba.  Approximate  position — Lat, 
50°  40'  N..  long.  101^  20'  W.;  east  of  Assiniboino  river. 

Q,  How  deep  do«s  frost  penetrate  the  ground,  and  how  la  depth  affected  by  greater 
or  less  quantity  of  snow  on  ground? 

A.  On  May  20ih  last  year,  1886,  frost  was  found  whilst  digging  a  cellar  5  feet 
below  surface.  High  ground  near  a  prairie.  In  June  1883,  whilst  digging  a  cellar 
of  the  Binscartb  company's  store,  frost  was  met  with  at  a  depth  of  9  feet 

On  20th  April  last  year  (1886)  we  drove  fenoe-poats  2  feet  into  ground  without 
touching  frost. 

Cannot  say  exactly  how  far  depth  of  snow  affects  penetration  of  frost,  but  our 
creek  got  frozen  to  the  bottom  this  winter  (1880-7)  for  want  of  a  good  supply  of 
snow  on  first  ice,  therefore  suiipose  that  want  of  snow  on  ground  would  facilitate  the 
deeper  penetration  of  frost. 

Dn  Rae  adds  here  : — "  From  my  own  knowlcilge,  the  bottom  of  pools  which 
have  been  in  winter  frozen  to  the  bottom,  remain  scilid  ice  for  a  long  time  after 
much  of  the  ice  is  thawed  out  of  the  land  not  covered  by  water* 


774 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


Q.  Have  you  heard  of  or  seen  any  frost  in  ground  in  autumn  ?  If  so,  how  far 
down  in  llie  earth  bus  it  been  ? 

A.  Never  heard  of  any  of  the  old  stock  of  ice  remaining  so  long. 

Q.  At  what  time  of  the  year  dots  the  ground  becx)me  quite  free  from  frost? 

A,  If  you  mean  f^r  farming  operations,  ploughing  can  generally  be  got  at  between 
the  10th  and  15th  April 

Q,  How  far  have  you  usually,  in  your  district,  to  dig  fur  water  ? 

A.  Everything  depends  upon  the  locality.  When  shale  is  known  to  be  under 
ground,  water  is  sure  to  be  got  when  it  is  reached,  and  g(jod  water  too;  Beams  of 
ahale  vary  as  to  their  depth.  Wei  la  range  from  9  to  200  feet  in  depth.  A  well  of 
the  latter  depth  (200  feet)  haa  just  b«^en  dug  at  Birtle  (March  IB 87)  on  the  Manitoba 
and  N.W.  Kail  way,  through  all  clay,  hut  is  on  the  high  banks  of  the  Birdtaii  river  or 
creek,  where  a  person  would  exiect  to  have  to  go  deep.  At  Binscarth  Station 
the  w*elL  ia  84  feet  deep  througli  clay ;  this  is  alsjo  near  tho  banks  of  a  creek.  My 
well  18  DOW  61  feet,  also  on  the  hank,  with  the  creek  64  feet  below.  We  struck  a 
very  fiUgbt  spring  at  this  depth,  which  gives  us  only  about  six  inches  of  water, 
through  a  hard  clay.  We  intend  going  down  until  a  good  spring  ia  reached, 
which  we  expect  to  find  below  the  level  of  the  creek,  at  had.  So  much  for  the 
deep  wells, 

I  know  lots  of  wells  about  here  from  9  to  40  feet,  I  think  one  may  say  the 
average  is  30  feet. 

There  is  never  much  difficulty  in  ^getting  water  at  a  reasonable  depth  ou  the 
ordimiry  level  prairie  uhout  here.  During  the  summer  of  1883  we  used  water  from 
a  well  not  over  six  feet  deep,  but  that  was  not  a  dry  year, 

Q.  Do  you  know  any  explanation  of  the  working  of  the  willow  in  finding 
springs  ? 

A,  Both  the  openings  of  tho  well  of  Birtle  and  Binscarth  were  found  by  this 
method,  and  a  number  of  others. 

This  evidence  that  llbabdomancy  has  sincere  believers  in  the  CanadiaQ  prairies 
is  not  without  curioaity. 


PEOCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 

Geographical  Society  of  Paris.— 'NoveniI>er  4th,  1887 :  M,  Hamy>  Vice- 
Presiiient,  iu  the  Chair. — This  was  the  first  meeting  of  the  Society  after  the  vacation. 
The  General  Secretary  announced  the  death  of  Captain  Verzeaux,  a  promising  young 
ofiicer,  who  farmed  part  of  RouviePs  expedition  to  West  Africa,  and  had  special 
charge  of  the  topographical  work. — The  Geographical  Society  of  Lisbon  intimated 
the  death  of  its  President,  M.  Antonio  Augusto  d'Aguiar.— The  programme  of  the 
questions  to  he  submitted  to  the  Congress  of  learned  Societies  next  year  was 
forwarded  by  the  Minister  of  Public  Instruction. — Two  letters  were  read  announcing 
new  expeditions^Hifue  from  Dr.  Colin,  stating  that  he  was  on  the  point  of  starting  for 
the  Soudan ;  and  tbc  other  from  Dr.  A,  de  Beausaet  In  Chicago,  iutiniating  his 
intended  departure  on  June  10th  from  Kew  York  on  a  journey  of  exploration  in 
the  Arctic  regions. — The  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs  tmnsmitted  a  collection  of 
photographic  views  and  a  pamphlet,  which  had  been  forwarded  to  M.  Rouvier^ 
French  Minister  at  Buenos  Ay  res,  by  M.  J.  Popper,  with  reference  to  his  travels  in 
Tierra  del  Fuego. — Some  correspondence  was  received  with  regard  to  the  work  being 
done  hy  Frenchmen  in  Tongking.  Lieutenant  de  Feaigny  was  engaged  in  studying 
the  navigation  of  the  rapids  of  the  Mekong,  and  the  question  of  fltivial  communica* 
tion  in  Laos.     Under  his  direction  M,  N.  Pardoux  with  a  party  had  successfully 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGK  SOCIETIES, 


readied  the  Kcmg  rapids  (Upper  Mekong) ;  on  airmng  at  Stung-Treng,  they  met 
with  a  very  cold  reception  from  tlie  Siamese  general,  tbe  Khnl,  who  refused  them  a 
pilot,  but  allowed  them  to  proceed.  They  had  great  difficulty  in  further  pursuing 
their  voyage  up  stream  to  the  village  of  Cosdara,  in  sight  of  the  first  falls  of  Khon. 
Some  of  the  pnrty  were  left  to  explore  the  rapids,  while  De  F'^aigay  and  Pardoux 
returned  to  Kratti^.  There  is  little  trade  at  present  in  this  region,  owing  to  want  of 
proper  communication.  The  writer  considers  Khon  and  Sttmg-Treng  to  be  the  keys 
of  all  the  coiamercL*  of  Ceotral  and  Eastern  Tndo-China*— ^Ati  extract  from  a  report 
by  Dr,  Vemeau  on  the  ancient  peoples  of  the  Canary  Islands  was  read.— Dr.  Kouire 
requested  the  insertion  in  the  *  Compte  Rendu '  of  a  memoir  relative  to  the  lagoons 
on  the  shores  of  the  Gulf  of  Hammamet  (Tunis). — A  letter,  dated  August  10th, 
1887,  from  Loango,  was  received  from  M.  J.  Cholet,  governor  of  the  Niari  district, 
announcing  the  sudden  death  of  Captain  Plelj^neur  through  the  capsizing  of  his 
canoe.  Captain  Pieigneur  had  done  good  work  in  completing  our  knowledge  of 
this  district  by  his  surveys^  and  was  engaged  in  preparing  a  detailed  map  of  the 
Kuilu-Niari  region, — A  communication  was  read  from  M,  A.  Bardey  on  the  question 
of  M.  Oenry*®  project  for  opening  a  new  route  to  Harar  by  way  of  the  Gadi  Butbi, 
The  same  correspondent  also  wrote  that  he  had  just  received  a  letter  from 
M.  A.  Riralmud,  giving  particulars  of  his  route  from  Shoa  vi4  Harar  to  Zeila,  and  a 
description  of  the  country. — Letters  were  received  from  M.  H.  Coudreau,  announcing 
his  arrival  at  Saint-Laurent  on  the  Maroni  (Guiana),  whence  he  intended,  in  com- 
pany with  Apatou,  the  companion  of  Crevaux,  making  a  thirty  days'  canoe-voyage 
to  the  Honcouyenne  InriianSj  on  the  nordi  slope  of  the  Tumuc-Humac  Range,  about 
2**  30'  K.  and  46°  W, ;  he  would  then  tmvel  across  the  mountainous  country  from 
village  to  village, — An  interesting  manuscript  with  map  was  received  from 
M,  Olivier  Ordinaire,  the  French  V ice-Consul  at  TarragoDa,  containing  notes  on  his 
journey  from  Lima  to  Iquitos  (Peru),  along  the  river  Palcazu.  This  memoir  will 
he  inserted  in  the  Quarterly  Bulletin. — The  Minister  of  Public  Instruction  announced 
the  receipt  of  a  letter  iJated  June  12th>  from  M.  Thouar,  on  his  explorations  in 
Bolivia.  He  had  been  shut  up  in  Chaco  since  January,  all  means  of  communication 
having  been  closed  j  he  was  then  marching  to  Paraguay.— *T he  Chairman  intimate<i 
that  M,  Custodio  do  B<jTJa,  kte  governor  of  Portuguese  Guinea^  was  present  at  the 
meeting,  and  welcomed  him.  M.  de  Borja  briefly  replied.  Tiie  Chairman  also 
noticed  in  a  few  well-selected  terms  the  presence  of  M.  Balhty,  Governor  of  Gabon, 
Dr.  Paul  Neis,  M,  E.  Cotteau^  who  had  returned  from  his  short  journey  to  the  Amu 
Daria,  and  M.  Chaffanjon,  also  returneil  from  the  Orinoco.  M.  Hamy  said  that  a 
special  meeting  would  be  held  in  the  Sorl)onnB  Hall  on  Noveml>er  22Qd,  to  receive 
M,  Cliaffanjon,  and  another  meeting  in  the  same  hall  at  an  early  date  to  welcome 
MM.  CapuB  and  Bonvalut.  He  concluded  by  announcing  that,  thanks  to  tbe  efforts 
of  the  comraandera  in  Upper  Senegal,  notably  of  Lieut.-Coh  Gallieni,  a  French 
gtm-boat  had  got  up  the  Niger  as  far  as  Kahara,  the  port  of  Timbuktu. — ^In  conctu- 
sioti  Dr.  Ijibonn©  gave  an  account  of  his  second  journey  to  Iceland  in  discharge  of 
the  mission  with  which  he  had  been  entrusted  by  the  Minister  of  Public 
Instruction. 

OeograpMcal  Society  of  Berlm. — November  5th,  1887 :  Herr  W.  Reibs  in 
the  Chair, — ^Profe^sor  Bastian  welcomed  Lieut.  Wiswmann  on  his  return  from  his 
second  journey  across  the  African  continent,  and  in  the  course  of  his  remarlfs 
pointed  out  that  highly  important  results  accrued  to  science  when  explorers,  who 
visited  as  the  first  Europeans  a  region  previously  quite  unknown,  made  their  ethno- 
graphical collections  at  once,  because  experience  had  taught  us  that  the  briefest 
contact  with  civilisation  was  sufficient  to  introduce  the  germ  of  death  into  the 
alioriginal  conceptions  of  the  native  jTeoples,  This  authorised  demand  on  the  fiort  of 
ethnology  many  travellers  had  disregarded,  and  for  this   th*^y  could   hnrdly  he 


776 


PROCEEDOiGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


blamed,  where  they  had  had  to  struggle  hard  with  the  necessities  of  the  raonient, 
Wisfimanii,  Kund,  and  Tappenbeck  had  laid  ethnology  uoder  the  greatest  obligaticwi, 
because  thoy  had  brought  home  rich  ethnogra|ihical  collections  from  tribea  foriuerly 
unknown ;   moreoverj  tliey  had  in  consequence  imposed  upon   themselves   manj 
|XTSonal  privations  in  order  to  spare  the  necessary  porters  for  the  transport  of  the 
collections. — Lient,  Wissmann  then  gave  a  gtnerol  report  upon  his  travels  in  the 
South  Congo  basin,  from  the  end  of  1883  to  the  middle  of  1887.     He  oommenced 
with  a  very  brief  sketch  of  the  first  part  of  bis  journevings,  which  consisted  of  the 
first  voyage  np  tlie  Kassai,     He  then,  gave  an  outline  of  the  second  part  of  hia 
travels,  vm:.  the  journey  of  1886  made  after  a  ehort  stay  in  the  island  of  Madeira, 
By  his  last  Jonmey  up  the  Kassai  he  has  determined  that  the  Kwant;o  is  the  largest 
tributary  of  the  Kassai.     In  3^  41'  S.  lat.  and  18°  40'  long.  (E.  of  Greenwich)  be 
found  the  place  where  Lieut.  Kund  had  crossed  the  river ;  this  point  had  not  been 
astronomically  determined  by  the  latter.     The  Sankuru  has  only  half  the  vobinoe 
of  water  possessed  by  the  Ki^sai  above  the  confluence  of  the  two  rivers,  so  lh*il 
those  who  would  designate  the  whole  river  system  with  the  name  of  Sankufu  are 
wrong.     The  great  forward  march  of  Wissmann  into  the  unknown  territory  to  the 
north  of  the  Sankuru  and  the  Lomani  was  commenced  from  LuUiaburg  with  li 
caravan  of  about  lOOO  men.     Sangula  Meta,  the  sister  of  the  Bashilange  chief 
Kalamba,  again  joined  the  party,  she  having  already  accompanied  the  first  expedition 
to  Nyangwe,     A  lengthened  stay  was  made  on  the  Lubi,  where  punishment  waa 
inflicted  on  the  powerful  tribe  of  the  Bona  Ngonga,  who  hod  attacked  and  plundered 
Pug2;e  on  his  return  from  the  Lualaba  in  1882,      After  this,  the  Sankuru  was 
crossed  at  a  point  below  its  confluence  with  the  Lnbi ;  the  party  then  entered  the 
region  of  the  mighty  virgin  forests.     From  the  15th  to  the  27th  December,  1886,  ihia 
extremely  wearisome  and  painful  march  lasted.     The  woods  are  sparsely  peopled  by 
the  savage  Batetela  and  Batua,  and  the  large  caravan  was  unable  to  find  aulGcient  food- 
Even  elephants  are  not  met  with  in  theae  forestSjWhere  a  gloomy  silence  reigns  supreme. 
The  Batua  are,  on  an  average,  about  4|  feet  in  height,  and  are  timid  and  ahy.     The 
Batetela  are,  like  wild  beasts,  suspicious,  and  may  be  compared  to  isavage  doga. 
The  want  of  provisions  compelled  Wissmann  to  give  up  the  march  to  the  north-north- 
east, and  to  turn  his  steps  to  the  eouth.     He  thus  had  to  i>a»s  through  the  territory 
of  the  marauding  Ben  Mona,  and  this  was  only  accomplished  by  the  employment  of 
force.  From  the  28th  December,  1886,  to  the  23rd  January,  1887,  the  caravan  marched 
through  the  region  of  the  gigantic  villages  met.  with  on  the  first  journey.     Now  tho 
district  was  completely  depopulated.     War  and  small-pox  had  entirely  deva3tato<l 
the  country.     The  want  of  lootl  was  so  great  that  Wissmann  lost  eighty  men  from 
hunger  and  smalUpox  on  the  journey  from  the  Sankuru  to  Nyangwe.     In  the 
latter  place  he  found  comlitions  a  bo  very  much  changed  in  con  sequence  of  the  eventa 
at  Stanley  Falls.     The  bearing  of  the  Arabs  towards  tbe  traveller  was  decidedly 
hostile-     In  view  of  the  disorganisation  of  his  caravan  from  hunger  and  sicknesti, 
Wissmann  found  himself  compelled  to  abandon  his  intention  both  of  trarelHng  up 
tbeupi^er  Lualaba  and  of  proceeding  to  JWuta  Nziga     He  therefore  despatched  hia 
Bashilanges  with  his  colleague  Lieut.  I^e  Marinell  back  to  Luluaburg,  while  he  him- 
self set  out  on  the  route  to  the  east  coast,  viH  Tangauj'ika,  Lake  Nyassa,  and  down 
the  Zambesi  (Lenz'a  route).     It  ia  not  at  present  known  whether  Le  Marinell  has 
reached  Luluaburg,  no  news  having  arrived*     In  tbe  region  between  the  I^omani  and 
the  Sankuru  the  conditions  of  trade  have  completely  altered  since   1884,     Now 
glass  beads,  arms,  and  powder  form  the  chief  articles  of  barter^  having  replaced  the 
earlier  cowry  shells.     The  former  are  supplied  by  the  Bih^  caravans  in  exchange 
with  the  Bassonge  for  slaveSj  which  they  then  exchange  with  the  Bakuba  for  ivory. 
The  Bakuba  buy  the  women  slaves  for  their  households,  but  the  men  for  victims  at 
their  funeral  solemnities. 


: 


(    777    J 

NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 
(By  J*  Scott  Keltie,  Librarian  b.q.s.) 

EIJEOPE. 

Anricll,  H*  [TOn»] — Historiscber  Ueberblick  tiber  dio  Kolonisation  dcs  Schwnrzmeer- 
Kvistengebiet  dea  Kankasus.     *  Russische  Kevue,*  xvi.  Jalirgang.    2  Heft,     1887. 

[Enrope.] — Europaische  Wanderbilder.  Illuslmted  Europe*  Zuricb^  Orell  Ftiseli 
&  Co.;  London,  C,  Smitb  &  Son.  Pric©  Bd,  each  number.  [Presented  by 
Messrs,  Orell  FiiBsli  &  Co.] 

Tbere  are  about  130  of  these  cxtTeTnely  bandy,  carefully  compiled,  and  pro- 
fusely and  beautifully  illustrated  handbooks.  As  will  be  seen  by  the  titles  of 
those  which  Messrs.  Orell  Ftissli  &  Co.  have  been  gooil  enough  to  send  us,  each 
relatea  to  a  very  limited  district,  and  as  the  average  size  is  only  about  thirty 
pages,  they  are  easily  curried  about.  As  will  be  teen  from  the  titles,  many  of 
them  have  been  translated  into  English,  and  we  believe  tliero  are  tmuBlations 
of  several  of  them  of  which  we  have  only  the  German  editious.  The  following 
are  the  titles  of  those  which  Imve  been  sent  us : — 

Ifo.  1.  The  Artli-Elgi  Bfttlwdj,— No.  2.  Die  Uetltberg-Bahn.  Von  J.  J.  Eindn-,  Zweltc  Auflflgf.— 
N<i.  3.  Ttie  VitniJLU-Rlgl-Halt.-'No,  fi.  l^er  WAllfabrtMrt  Einniedeln.^No.  ft.  Zurich  ukI  Itjs  Ed- 
▼iron**.— K«,  ID.  CoDfiUnce  Atid  it»  Kiivirona.— No.  H,  Nyon  *hcl  it«  Envircnu.  By  Aug.  Teitiu. — 
No.  ilij.  IIiiidIh.  By  a.  lit mnpf. — Nt<.  13.  Luorne  and  iu  EnvifCitiid.— No.  14.  iJbt 'JusBthAl.  Von 
Dr.  4i.  Geilfn*.— No.  14,  Floreirrc.  Bj  S  fl.  .M.  By  era— Nor.  15,  Its.  MIIar.  By  J.  Mirdnw'yeT,^ 
Nowir,  SchAinmnBeci  and  the  Fullnof  tbe  Hbltie,— No.  18.  Hagu-Pfo'fere.— No.  19.  Veveyjls  Kn- 
virraiA  and  Clljuate.  By  Alf.  Orew-lw,— No,  20,  Tbe  UetJi*  of  h  rt^uib  (Bad  Kreuthi  in  tlie  fiavarlAD 
Atp*.— No.  31.  Dttvo*,— No.  2!i.  The  Bnth«*  of  Keinirt.  By  P.  r>f  nplcr-  No.  2J,  Tbff  flruyir*:  JIjo 
new  moiintAln  road  from  Vevey  tu  [nti^rlaltrn,  Hy  liulle-Hottl^i;*-!!.— Nofc.  '14,  26,  36.  Tbe  St.  Gf^tbord 
Hallway.— No.  25.  KiMiicrz  In  drr  obt«rn  Stclennjirli.  Von  Jolmnn  KrAin?.. — Not.  37, 38.  Freiburg 
ntaden)  and  Itji  Knvironi*.  Py  L.  Nijumann. — No.  29.  Pyrmcmt.  TtlUHtrirt  and  beschrleben  von 
Hobert  Oil  Hale  r. — No. 'J9.  Vniacii  In  Kanvten  undiwine  UiU|^ebun(7.  Von  Hcitirkh  Noe.— Noa.  29,  30. 
Qorberadorf.  Dr.  Brehmer's  NTitrntortum  for  OtnrtumptivoJ*.  By  R.  Ortmann. — Ny#,  ai,  32.  Clmux- 
de'Food:»,  Locle,  Dririeta^  and  their  Knvlrona.— No.  33.  Fr«>m  Frobursr  ^4)  \Valdenbiir«:  An  t- xcunlon 
aivf^nf^  Ibo  niountnlfi!*  of  So'.cure  and  Bojile.— No«.  34»  35.  The  Bbrgenstock  (I  ake  of  Lucj?rn«').  By 
Hr.  W.  Culja^flK— NtM*.  :iii»  at.  Nnuhntel  and  iU  hjavimm.  Hy  A.  tiachelin.— JSoci.  36,  3v.  Had 
Kraiikcnhtll-T'>i£  im  bay^-rischen  Hochlando,  V«rti  Gailav  Scbaefer.— N(n«.  'la^  39.  Battaglla.  near 
I'adna,  By  Kdward  Mautnor.— Nui.  4i ,  41.  Coire  a,md  its  KnvlroQ».  By  Dr.  E.  Killlai,— Not.  42, 43. 
Dafl  VoPchrlBtlkbi*  Koin„  \tm  Dr.  0.  Henne-Amrbyn.~Nt>».  4'i,  4:i»  44.  Tbe  line  ibrough  CarynlbUi 
and  tbo  i*U9tcrtbaL  By  Dr.  Henry  No*.— Sow.  44^  45,  46.  AJaccIo  ala  Winlerkmrf^rt  iiiwl  die  In**! 
( .^yralca.  Von  Knd,  Gertxr. — Noa.  45.  46,  47.  li'nmx  (Jenuany  to  lialy.  The  Brenner  HallMay  from 
the  liiver  Inn  1o  Lalce  iJarda.  By  Dr.  Henry  Nw, — Nos.  47,  4w.  Augaburg.  Von  Adolf  BuCT.— Noa. 
4^,  49, M.  From  tlifl  tJ&nul»e  to  the  Adriatic :  Vbnno.  Siinixierlnic.  I  te»i«,  AbliAila.  By  Dr,  Henry 
Ko^.^Noft.  4fl,  60.  Bonn  nnd  i-eiue  UniKetmni;.  Von  Ludwtg  Lorbach." Nos.  61,  62,  GruL^-Noa.  63, 
54.  Troro  Faria  to  Bcrtit  vik  D^Jim  i.nd  rtml-iirii^r.— Noa,  66.  66.  The  t^ke  of  Lnctrme.  By  J.Uard- 
ineyer.— No.  67*  Tbe  Bf  rgetraisse  frotii  Jugenhidm  to  Aurrbacb.  By  Kmat  I'maqud. — Noa.  AB,  69. 
Atj(*le»-BuliiB  and  Ita  Environs.  By  V.  Barbicr.— Nt».  eo,  61.  Ht^fdelberg.  By  Carl  Pfaff.— Noa.  62. 
63, 64,  Budapest.  By  I'jJmund  Steioackcr.— No.  es.  Montreux  tLaki* uf  (feneva).  From  the  Freiwh 
of  Alfred  CercMle.— No«.  66,  67,  ej*.  Locarno  and  its  Valleyn.  By  J.  ilanitncyer.— ?•(*».  69,  7iJ.  71, 
72-  C«Bton  Glaruaand  tbe  I^keof  Waienstadt.  By  Ernst  Bupa,— Nf.«.  71,  72.  Dnrch  den  Artberir. 
Von  Lnduig  von  Hurrnann, — Now.  »3,  ?i,  7i,  7G.  Frcim  I'aria  U*  Milan  via  ilont  C<»ni&  (l"tiiJioa).  By 
V.  Barbler,— No*.  77,  7».  7^.  Tbe  Black  Foro«t  Railway  (GratKl-hucby  of  Baden).  By  J.  HMirdmeyer. 
— Noa.  77,  7lt,  7JJ,  i^O.  KoD«tantinopel  uiid  Uuip^bnng:,  Von  P.  Leonhardi.— Nos.  fll,  n2.  WalliH  (lud 
ChamQulx:  Vouder  Fnrka  bin  Bug,  Vijn.  F.  U.  \^olf.— No.  (>3.  Dai  National-Denkmal  am  N^eder- 
wald.  Von  JoMf  .Schrftttenholy..— No«.  92,  93.  Bad  Driburg:  Aur  tfrm  ^lagebucbo  clnes  Hyp<i>* 
t'hLiwtJua.  Von  tir.  Thcodor  Rjelen^tabL— Nos.  04,  06.  WnllJs  nnd  Chumfnlx.  II.  Heft.  Brig  nnd 
dT  Mmplon.  Von  F.  O.  Woii— Nob.  99,100.  Joi.  102.  Wallis  uiul  Clianiontx.  lU.  IJeft.  Dio 
VUperthiiler.  Vou.  F.  O.  Wolf.— Nos.  103,  li»4.  Murlen.  Von  \^.  V.  .Stock.- Nos.  106,  106,  107. 
^\alMs  und  Cbanaonix.  IV.  Heft,  l^otscben  nnd  Leukerbtil.  Vcn  F.  0.  VVi^lf— Nob.  lf>8,  J0*»,  IK). 
Wailiii  uml  Cbamonlat.  V.  Heft.  Pie  TbUler  von  Tortnian  nnd  Elfisch,  Von  F,  O.  Wolf.^Nw.  114, 
lia,  M6.  Lugano  und  die  VerbindnngftllnU-  awiechen  den  drei  ©JjeriUlieniscben  S^ee'n.  Von  J,  Hard- 
meycT. — Noa.  121,  122.  fiaj]  C'udowa  (  Provlnx  Scble«leu):  E^nilge  A i>en-tliiej] quelle  I>eutffcli1andt, 
ijeTiLUEif;egeben  und  bearbeitet  von  ¥.  h.  JUanreb. — Noa.  123, 124.  lilo  HolienlhalbalLn.  Von  SieglVted 
BodenbeliQcr.^No.  126.  FrledHchiJiafen  am  Bodefiaea. 

Freshfield,  D.  W.— A  Skeleton  Diary  of  Six  Weeks' Travel  in  the  Central  Caucasus, 
in  18B7.     *  Alpine  Journal,*  November,  1887. 

In  Mr.  Freshfield*8  notes,  as  well  as  in  the  numerons  views  and  panoramas 
that  accompany  them,  the  geographer,  as  well  as  the  Alpinist,  will  find  mnch  to 
jntereit  bim* 


I 

L 


778  NEW  GEOGRAPmCAL  POBLICATIOXS, 

iBvestija  Tmperatorslcago  Eussltago  geographiclieakago  obscheatva*  Proceedings  of 
the  Imperial  Russian  Geographical  Society,  vol,  xxiiL  fttsc,  3 :  Si.  PeterBburc:,  1887. 

Thifl  number  contains  an  anthropilo^ical  excursion  across  Asia  Minor,  by 
A,  Y.  EUseief ;  preliminary  report  on  an  expedition  to  Kan-snh  br  G.  N.  Pota- 
nin,  with  appeudlces ;  (1)  Letter  of  M.  M.  Ikrezfjvsixy ;  (2)  Halting-pLacea 
of  the  expedition  and  positions  astronomically  determined  by  8kassl ;  the 
Mariytch  and  contiguous  8tep|>e3  of  the  Caucsi^ua,  by  D.  L*  Ivanof ;  a  coatribu- 
tion  to  the  natural  history  of  the  northern  CaucAaus,  by  V.  A.  Fansek,  with 
appendices  inchidtT^g  a  note  on  the  herbarium  of  Messrs,  Ivanof  and  Fausek 
collected  in  tlie  government  uf  Stavropol ;  an  explanation  of  the  map  of 
Prejevalsky'a  fourtli  journey  in!o  Central  Asia,  together  with  a  list  of  baro- 
metrical heights  determined  by  him.  An  English  veraioa  of  this  map  ia  pub- 
liflhed  in  our  May  *  Proceedings  *  for  this  year. 

Zopiski  Iraperatckrskago  Russkago  geographiche^kago  obachestva.  Memoirs  of  tlve 
Imperial  Hueaian  Goograj>hical  kSociety,  Section  of  General  Geography,  vol.  3tv. 
No.  3,  pp.  48 ;  St.  Feter«biirg,  IHHG, 

On  the  roMiltH  of  a  survey  of  Lake  Baikal,  by  F.  D.  Chersky.  The  antbor 
thus  sums  up  his  urticle: — "Repcarijig  the  concluding  words  of  my  re[Xprt  for 
1879>  1  will  f;ay  onee  more  that  the  Baikal  is  not  a  rift  in  the  .lunissic  deposits, 
nor  a  subsidence,  nor  the  reault  of  plutooic  and  rolaiuic  disturbances.  Known 
to  have  existetl  at  the  periixl  of  the  deHiccatiou  of  a  pre-Silurian  ocean,  it  has 
been  formed  by  slow  and  gradual  changes  which  have  been  acting  from  that 
t'me  to  the  present,  every  miuuto  adding  something  new  to  the  peculinnties  of 
its  bassin." 

The  same  series  (vol.  xvi.  Ko,  2,  pp*  fi9,  St.  Petersburg,  188fi)  contains  a 
phyaico-geographica]  description  of  the  south-eastern  part  of  the  government  of 
Oloneta  by  the  late  J.  J.  Poliakof.  The  facta  collected  lead  to  conclusions 
adverse  to  th«  theory  maintained  by  eminent  geologists,  and  espcciatty  by 
M,  InoBtrantftef,  that  the  U' hite  Sea  and  the  Baltic  were  united  in  the  Post- 
tertiary  epoch. 

Zapiski,  d'c.»  Section  of  Ethnography,  vol.  xiv.  Na  2,  pp.  218,  1  plate ;  St,  Peters* 
burg,  1886. 

Contains  a  treatise  on  the  Yotiaks  of  Soeuofsky,  by  Count  Verentchagin. 
Sosnofsky  U  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  district  of  Sarapul  In  the  governmnit  of 
Yiatka,  its  chief  village  Sosnofka  being  about  40  miles  frtim  the  river  Kama. 
It  is  here  that  I  he  Votiaks  are  nmiuly  congregated^  and  have  preserved  relics  of 
their  heathenish  practices.  According  to  traditiuu  they  carae  hither  frx>m 
beyond  the  Kama  to  escape  persecution  by  the  authorities. 

The  samn  Rt-riea  (vol.  xv.  No.  7,  pp.  57,  St.  Peters^burg,  1886)  contains  a 
journey  in  north-eaatern  Persia,  and  the  trana-Caspian  region  by  A.  M,  KikuL-^ky* 
At  the  ooncluaion  of  his  article  the  author  gives  a  list  of  animals  and  plants  of 
Azerbaijan,  Fan*  and  Turkoniani.i  with  their  native  e<:|uivalenti!. — [E.B.MJ 

ASIA. 
Porbes,  Anna. — lusulindc:  Experiences  of  a  Naturalist^d  Wife  in  thii  Eastern 
Archiixdago.    Edinburgh,  Blackwood,  1887  :  8vo.,  pp.  xii.  and  305,    Price  8«.  Crf, 
[Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

Mrs,  Forbe»  U  the  wife  of  the  well-known  naturalist  and  traveller, 
Mr,  H,  O.  torlxs.  She  acoompanied  him  during  much  of  his  wanderings  in  the 
Eastern  Archii^lngo,  and,  m  we  know  from  Mr.  Forbes^  narrative,  lived  alooe 
for  some  time  among  the  hills  of  Timor.  lu  this  volume  nhe  has  wntleii  a 
charmiug  account  ol  her  experiences.  8hc  is  au  excellent  observer,  and  aa  ahe 
was  intert>8led  in  many  other  tilings  besides  her  husbimd's  work,  her  book  may 
bo  taken  as  to  some  extent  supplifmeutary  to  his.  Her  minute  detcriptioos  of 
the  manners  of  svhites  and  natives  in  these  eastern  colonies  are  such  as  only  an 
observant  woman  could  wriie,  and  they  will  be,  to  a  large  extent,  new  to  many, 
Shu  touches  juet  on  those  points  that  many  people  desire  to  get  information 
about,  but  cannot  6nd  it. 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIO^'S.  779 

Marche,  Alfired.— Lii9on  et  Falaouan.    Six  Add^  de  Voyages  aux  Philippines. 

Paris,  Hachette,  1887 :  870.,  pp.  vi.  and  406.    Price  4  francs,    [Presented  by  the 

Publisher.] 

M.  Marche  is  already  known  as  a  traveller  in  West  Africa.  The  present 
volume  gives  some  of  the  results  of  a  scientific  mission  with  which  he  was 
entrusted  by  the  Minister  of  Public  Instruction,  and  which  kept  him  about  the 
Indian  Archipelago  from  1879  to  1885.  Besides  the  Malay  Peninsula,  M.  Marche 
made  excursions  into  various  parts  of  the  island  of  Ln^on.  After  returning  to 
Europe  for  a  few  months  in  1882,  he  went  out  again,  aud  devoted  a  considerable 
time  to  Palawan  and  the  islands  to  the  north-east,  afterwards  crossing  over  to 
Mindanao  and  the  Sulu  Archipelago.  M.  Marche  seems  to  us  a  careful  observer, 
and  his  work  an  important  contribution  to  the  geography,  ethnology,  and 
natural  history  of  the  region  visited.  There  are  numerous  good  illustrations 
and  two  small  maps. 

Wilson,  James  Harrison. — China :  Travels  and  Investigations  in  the  Middle 
Kingdom.  A  study  of  its  civilisation  and  possibilities ;  with  a  glance  at  Japan. 
New  York,  D.  Appleton  &  Co.,  1887 :  or.  8vo.,  pp.  xx.  and  376.  [Presented 
by  the  Publishers.] 

This  volume  gives  a  good  general  idea  of  the  progress  and  present  condition 
of  things  in  China.  The  author  visited  the  country  more  especially  for  the 
purpose  of  ascertaining  the  actual  condition  of  affairs  in  respect  to  railroads  and 
other  modern  improvements.  He  has  much  to  tell  us  regarding  the  country 
and  people.  The  following  are  a  few  of  the  subjects  dealt  with : — ^Tho 
Hoang-ho,  or  Yellow  River,  its  inundations  and  embankments,  and  change  of 
river-bed ;  the  Yang-tse-Kiang,  its  navigation,  tributaries,  floods,  &c. ;  the 
Chukiang  or  Pearl  River;  the  Min;  the  Pei-ho  and  its  tributaries;  the 
Peh-tang;  the  New-chwang,  and  the  Ta-wen-ho;  the  Grand  Canal  and  its 
embankments,  &c.,  &c.  Besides  visiting  China  and  Japan,  the  author  spent  a 
week  in  Formosa,  travelling  over  its  northern  end,  examining  its  rivers  and 
harbours,  and  studying  its  resources.  There  is  a  map  of  China  illustrating  the 
volume. 

AFRICA. 
Anderson,  Andrew  A. — ^Twenty-five  Years  in  a  Waggon  in  the  Gold  Regions  of 
Africa.     London,  Chapman  &  Hall,  1887 :  two  vols.  8vo.    Vol.  I.,  pp.  x.  and 
307 ;  Vol.  II.,  pp.  vi.  and  253.    Price  24«.     [Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 

The  leading  results  of  Mr.  Anderson's  many  years'  joumeyings  in  South 
Central  Africa  will  be  found  in  the  *  Proceedings,'  Vol.  VI.  (1884),  p.  19,  where 
also  is  given  the  map  constructed  from  his  observations.  The  present  work  is  a 
rambling  one,  combining  his  own  imperfectly-dated  and  loosely-recorded  travel- 
ling experiences,  with  a  large  amount  of  information  compiled  from  various  sources 
on  the  countries  embraced  in  this  region.  He  says  one  object  of  his  work  is  to 
instruct  young  readers  and  others  in  the  physical  geography  of  South  Africa, 
the  importance  of  which  he  rightly  insists  upon,  as  a  basis  Iwth  for  the  com- 
mercial and  political  development  of  the  country.  These  volumes  contain  a  fair 
amount  of  physical  geography,  and  will  bo  found  useful  on  account  of  the 
general  information  they  give  on  the  various  countries  with  which  they  deal. 
There  is  no  map,  no  index,  and  a  few  extremely  poor  illustrations. 

Bayol  [Dr.]— Voyage  en  S^n^gambie.  In  'Revue  Maritime  et  Coloniale,'  Sep- 
tember-November 1887. 

Dr.  Bayol  is  Lieutenant-Governor  of  Senegal,  and  these  *  Notes,'  which  are 
to  be  continued,  give  the  results  of  his  own  experiences. 

Chavagnac,  Maurice  [De]. — De  Fez  k  Oudjda.  Bulletin,  Paris  Geographical 
Society,  3«  Trimcstre  1887. 

Although  the  journey  here  described  was  made  in  1881,  still,  as  it  deals 
with  a  region  about  which  we  know  little,  it  is  by  no  means  out  of  date.  It  is 
accompanied  by  a  good  map. 

No.  XIL— Dec.  1887.]  3  2 


780 


IJEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUCATIONS. 


CrOUCllf  Arclier  P,'-Oq  a  Surf-bound  Coast;  or,  Cable-laying  in  the  African 
Tropica,  London,  Sampson  Low  &  Co.,  1867 :  cr,  8vo.,  pp.  xii.  and  338.  Price 
7s*  G(i.     [Presented  by  the  Publiahcrs.] 

Forma  a  portion  of  a  diary  kept  during  a  cable-layiog  expedition  down  the 
Weat  Coast  of  Africaj  from  the  Enulisb  setUement  of  Bathurat  to  the  Portuguese 
town  of  St,  Paul  do  Lo^anda,  Tha  present  volume  deab  only  with  the  firat 
portion  of  the  joumey,  down  to  the  author's  departure  from  Accra,  which 
covers  three  only  out  of  the  six  months  occupied  by  the  whole  expedition. 
There  is  neither  index  nor  map. 

Maurice,  [Col.]  J,  F.— Military  History  of  the  Campaign  of  1882  in  Egypt.  Pre- 
pared in  the  Intelligence  Branch  of  the  War  Office,  London,  Harrison  &  Sons, 
[1887] :  8vo.,  pp.  vi,  and  216.  Price  7s.  6rf.  [Presented  by  the  Intelligence 
Branch  of  the  War  Office.] 

The  value  of  this  work  is  greatly  increafted  by  the  number  of  maps,  &c», 
which  occupy  a  greater  portion  of  the  volume.  Th^e  are  : — Sketch  of  Forma- 
tion for  Attack  on  Tel  el-Kebir,  Map  No.  1.*— Sketch  map  of  Lower  Egypt, 
wilh  plan  of  Cairo.  No.  2.— Sketch  map  to  illustrate  the  concentration  on 
Jsmailia  from  England,  India,  and  the  Mediterranean*  No.  3,— -Sketch  of  , 
Country  between  Alexandria,  Abukir,  and  KaFr  ed-Dauar.  No.  4, — Sketch 
of  the  Ramleh  position.  No,  5. — Sketch  of  the  Tower  Hill  position  at 
Bamleh,  No,  6. — Plans  of  IfimtuUa : — (a)  Previous  to  the  disembarka* 
tion  of  the  British  Array,  (b)  Showing  improvements  effected  subsequent 
to  the  disembarkation  of  the  British  Army.  No,  7, — Map  (in  three  sheeta) 
showing  country  between  Ismailla  and  Tel  el-Kebir,  viz. :— Sheet  L  lii- 
mailia — Magfar.  Sheet  2,  Tel  el-Maskhuta — ^Kasaassin.  Sheet  3.  T^  el* 
Kebir — Aabasa  Lock.  No.  8.^ — Map  (in  four  8heet8)i  illustmtincr  the  action  at 
Kassassin  on  the  9th  September,  1882,  and  the  Battle  of  Tel  el-Kebir.  No,  9- 
— Map  showing  Camps  of  British  Troops  on  the  Island  of  Bnlak,  No.  10, — 
Plan  of  the  British  Cemetery  at  Tel  el-Kebir,  with  names  of  officera  and  men 
burial  there. 

HeBSer  [Br.]— Ueber  aeice  in  Gemeinschaft  mit  Kev.  Grenfell  untemommene 
Beifiihrung  des  Kuanga  bis  zn  den  Kingnudji-Schuellen.  *  Verhandlungen  der 
Geaellschaft  fiir  Erdknnde  zu  Berlin.'     Band,  xiv.  No.  8.     1887. 

This  yiftper  describes  a  journey  made  by  Dr.  Mefiser  in  company  with 
Mr.  Grenfell,  on  board  the  steamer  Feace^  up  tlie  river  Quango  in  December 
1886. 

M tiller,  Hendrik  P,  H.—Een  Bezoek  aan  de  Delngoa-Baai  en  de  Lijdenbnrgsche 
Gondveldeo.  Haarlem,  H.  D,  Tjeenk  Willink,  1887:  8vo.,  pp.  37,  illustrations. 
[Presented  by  the  Author.] 

— Beknopt  Versing  van  de  Voordracht  ovor  Oost-Afrika,  gehouden  door  den 

Heer  Hendrik  P.  N.  Muller,  naar  aanlciding  zijner  Beizen  in  Afrika,  op  Maart 
1887  in  het  Nederlandsch  AardrijkHkundig  Genootschap,  Amsterdam,  C,  L. 
Brmkman :  Svo.*  pp.  7,  map.     [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

AMERICA. 

Blif  ham,  William  T,— Guatemala,  the  Land  of  the  Quetzal  London,  Fisher 
Unwiu,  1887  :  8vo.,  pp.  xv.  and  453,  Price  21^*.  [Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 
This  is  a  welcome  addition  to  our  knowledj];e  of  a  region  about  which  we 
know  comparatively  so  little.  As  Mr,  Brigham  points  out,  there  are  thousands 
of  square  mi  lea  of  wholly  unexplore^i  territory  between  the  low  isthmus  of 
Tehuan tepee  and  the  Lake  of  Nicaragua.  Mr*  Brigham  has  evidently  con- 
eiderable  ]>er8onal  acquaiufaaco  both  with  Guatemala  and  the  other  Central 
American  republics.  He  haa  drawn  upon  this  as  well  as  upon  other  sourcea  in 
order  to  write  a  fairly  complete  and  systematic  account  of  the  country ;  while,  in 
the  introductory  chapter,  he  gives  some  useful  notes  on  the  neighbouring  StateB, 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS.  781 

in  which,  however,  the  statistics  seem  rather  old.  The  author  begins  with  a 
sketch  of  the  old  kingdom  of  Guatemala.  He  then  in  a  series  of  chapters  takes  ns 
around  and  across  the  country  in  various  directions,  beginning  with  the  Atlantic 
Coast  and  its  connections.  He  guides  us  across  the  continent  westward  to  Coban, 
from  Coban  to  Quezaltenango,  and  thence  to  the  Pacific.  One  chapter  is  devoted 
to  Guatemala  city,  and  two  others  to  the  country  between  Guatemala  and 
Quirigua  by  Esquipulas.  Myth  and  history  are  dealt  with  in  a  chapter  on  the 
Olden  Time,  the  Modern  Bepublic  in  another  chapter,  while  the  two  concluding 
chapters  are  devoted  to  vegetable  and  animal  productions,  and  to  earthquakes 
and  volcanoes.  In  the  last  chapter  the  author  gives  a  list  of  volcanoes  in 
Central  America,  active  and  extinct,  though  he  believes  the  list  contains  only 
a  tithe  of  what  exists.  He  also  points  out  what  a  splendid  field  exists  here 
for  a  young  man  with  a  strong  constitution  and  a  training  in  science.  The 
book  is  enriched  with  numerous  good  illustrations,  and  contains  five  m^ps. 

Brinton,  Daniel  0. — ^Were  the  Toltecs  an  Historic  Nationality  ?    Philadelphia, 
Maccalla  &  Co.,  1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  15.    [Presented  by  the  Author.] 
Dr.  Brinton  maintains  that  the  Toltecs  are  a  myth. 

Buelna,  Eiutaqnio. — ^Pereggrinacion  de  los  Aztecas  y  nombres  Geograficos 
Indigenes  de  Sinaloa.  Mexico,  1887  :  sm.  8vo.,  pp.  140.  [Presented  by  the 
Mexican  Minister.] 
QTew  York  and  Pennsylvania  Bonndary.]— Report  of  the  Regents'  Boundary 
Commission  upon  the  New  York  and  Pennsylvania  Boundary,  with  the  final 
report  of  Major  H.  W.  Clarke,  g.e..  Surveyor  for  the  Commission.  Illustrated 
with  numerous  maps  and  sketches.  Albany,  Weed,  Parsons  &  Co.,  1886 :  8vo., 
pp.  490. 
[United  States.] — Sixth  Annual  Report  of  the  United  States  Geological  Survey  to 
the  Secretary  of  the  Interior,  1884-5.  Washington,  1885 :  imp.  870.,  pp.  xxix. 
and  670.     [Presented  by  the  Director.] 

Although  this  volume  is  dated  1885,  it  has  only  been  quite  recently  issued. 
As  usual  with  these  reports,  it  abounds  with  the  most  beautiful  illustrations 
and  maps,  many  of  which  are  quite  as  valuable  for  geographical  as  for  geological 
purposes.  The  area  surveyed  and  mapped  during  the  year  embraced  in  the 
Keport,  was  57,508  square  miles,  including  Massachusetts,  New  Jersey,  Appal- 
achian region,  Missouri-E^ansas,  Texas,  Plateau  region,  Yellowstone  Park, 
Northern  California.  In  connection  with  the  proposed  new  topographical 
survey  of  the  States,  the  Director  gives  briefly  tl^e  result  of  his  investigations 
and  experiments  during  four  years,  on  methods  of  surveying  and  cartographic 
systems.  The  area  of  the  States  is  so  great,  he  points  out,  that  economy  is  of 
prime  importance.  While  the  proposed  map  will  be  constructed  primarily  as  a 
basis  for  geological  work,  the  Director  points  out  that  it  may  be  used  for  a  great 
variety  of  purposes ;  that  since  the  need  for  a  topographical  map  is  perennial, 
it  should,  once  for  all,  be  so  constructed  that  the  expense  of  frequenV  surveys 
shall  be  avoided.  The  map  should  be  so  simple  that  it  may  he  used  by  all 
people  of  intelligence.  The  trigonometric  work  will  only  be  suflSciently  refined 
for  map-making  purposes.  The  hypsometric  work  is  based  on  the  railway 
levels  of  the  country,  which  have  be^  established  with  reasonable  accuracy,  and 
which  form  a  regular  network.  The  plan  for  the  map  contemplates  sheets  on 
three  different  scales,  suited  to  the  requirements  of  the  various  sections  of  the 
country,  viz.,  1 :  62,500, 1 :  125,000,  and  1 :  250,000.  The  map  is  constructed 
in  contours  with  vertical  intervals  of  10,  20,  60, 100  and  200  feet,  varying  with 
the  scale  of  the  map,  and  the  magnitude  of  relief  features.  The  map  is  to  be 
engraved  in  sheets,  of  which  the  limit  is  to  be  the  square  degree.  There  are 
two  sheets  in  the  Report  showing  the  various  kinds  of  lettering  to  be  used  in  the 
map,  and  the  conventional  signs  which  have  been  adopted  for  the  various 
features,  and  which  seem  all  clear  and  appropriate.  Among  the  papers  which 
accompany  the  Report,  and  which  occupy  the  bulk  of  the  volume,  are  several 
of  special  interest  to  the  geographical  student     Among  them  are  Captain 

3  I  2 


783 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 


Diitton^if  accuiuit  of  Ms  survey  of  Mfiint  Trt>l>r  nod  the  Ziiiii  rkt<?au  id  Xew 
Mexico;  Miifisre.  Chaml)erlain  and  Salisbury's  preiimiuary  j>a|x!ron  the  driftles* 
urea  of  the  Upper  Mi8»issji[)pi  Valley  ;  and  Professor  N*  S.  Slmler  b  paper  on  the 
^eu'Cikabt  Swamps  of  the  Eastern  United  States.  Professor  Shaler  niAmtain^ 
that  tlie  development  of  the  shore  swamps  of  New  England  ii*  intimately 
connected  with  the  Glacial  history  of  the  district  dnrinjx  the  last  Ice  period*  He 
therefore  prefaces  his  account  of  these  ewamps  with  a  hrief  statement  concern* 
ing  ihe  effects  of  glacial  action  oa  New  Kuglarul  terrirory.  Cijptiiin  Dutton,  ia 
hiB  highly  interesting  paj^cr  on  the  Zurii  Plateau,  points  ont  that  it  is  a 
mistake  to  infer  from  its  naaie  that  it  is  a  smooth  and  level  region  ;  it  is  one  of 
the  ru^gedeet  portions  of  the  West.  The  oNiacles  to  travel  artj  much  greater 
than  in  the  wilder  parts  of  Colorado;  but  instead  of  monntains  with  sloping 
flanks^  wo  find  innumerable  clifla,  often  of  great  altitude  and  length,  stretching 
ncross  our  jiwthway,  or  vanishing  on  either  hand  into  the  dim  distance.  For 
many  leagues  on  either  side  of  the  Colorado  river,  the  country  h  cut  by 
numberlefis  tortuous  cafions,  such  as  are  never  seen  elsewhere.  They  arc 
many  hundreds  of  feet  in  depths  scores  of  miles  in  length,  hut  their  walls 
are  precipitous  in  the  extreme.  While  the  illust  rat  ions  are  heautilully  executed 
they  are,  we  believe,  absolutely  true  to  nature,  having  been  photographed  on 
to  the  wood. 

OCEA!aA. 

FinBcb,  [DrJ  0.— IJbcr  Naturprodukte  dtr  Wefltlicben  Siidsee,  besonders  der 
Deutscben  Schutzgebiete.  Berlin,  Verkg  des  Deutschen  Kolonialvereinsj  1887 ; 
8vo.,  pp.  23. 

Guppy^  H.  Bi — The  Solomon  Islands  and  their  Natives,  Swan  Sonnenschein  &Co.^ 
1887 :  8vo.,  pp.  xvi  and  384.     Price  IL  58.    [Presented  by  the  Publishers.] 

The  Solomon  Islands  :  their  Geology,  General  Features,  and  Suitability  for 

Coloniaatiou.    Same  Publishera ;  Bvo.,  pp*  viL  and  152.    Price  lOf.  6c?.  [Presented 
by  the  Publishers.] 

Theae  two  volumes  form  one  work,  and  should  not  have  been  divided* 
Mr.  Guppy's  nflme  will  be  recognised  as  a  frequect  contributor  to  scientific 
journalj*  during  the  past  few  yearu,  writtun  while  in  hie  cruise  to  the  North  Pacific 
as  a  naval  Hurgt^on  on  hoard  the  Lark.  Mr.  Guppy  was  appointed  to  his  ship  in 
1881,  partly  ou  account  of  his  natural  history  tastes.  Ho  look  every  oppor- 
tunity during  M&  long  cruise  of  addiug  to  the  store  of  scientific  knowledge^ 
though  we  rt- gret  to  learu  that  he  hod  to  uudertake  all  his  researclies  at  his  own 
e3ti>eu.se,  ou  the  slender  pay  of  a  naval  Murgeon.  The  results,  so  far  as  the  Solo- 
mon Islands  are  conoerfted,  are  contained  iu  these  two  volumeSj  which  deserve  to 
rank  with  the  beat  of  the  class  to  which  they  belong.  He  made  himself  quit© 
at  home  in  the  islands,  was  received  as  a  friend  by  the  inhabitants,  and  had 
excejjtioniil  opportunities  for  acfjuiring  detailed  and  accurate  information.  The 
first  and  larger  volume  dealti  with  the  anthropology,  natural  history,  botany, 
and  meteorology  of  the  group,  while  the  second  volume  is  conccrocd  mainly  with 
the  geology.  Mr.  Guppy  does  not  adhere  to  any  chronological  narrative  in 
describing  the  results  of  his  observationn.  In  his  introductory  chapter  he  gives 
a  very  graphic  account  of  bush-walking  in  these  islands,  and  the  diflicultits  of 
explormg  theiu  thoroughly  from  this  cause  ;  difSculties,  however,  which  he  over- 
came with  success.  One  half  of  the  Qrst  volume  is  devoted  to  the  ethnology  of 
the  i^landM,  and  treats  of  the  natives  in  every  jxis^ible  as|iect.  As  it  records 
mainly  the  retailta  of  his  owu  very  csireful  obsLTvations,  it  is  a  viduable  original 
contribution  to  a  subject  of  much  impirtauce,  hmdes  being  interesting  rwidiog. 
Mr.  Guppy  has  done  a  great  service  to  tlte  history  of  discovery  in  traoalaliog 
and  aimotatiiig  the  Journal  of  Gatlego,  to  which  so  romantic  an  interest  is 
attached.  This  forms  one  chaptiT  of  the  first  volutue,  which  \s  follows.!  by 
another  chapkr  recounting  the  strange  story  of  the  diiiUippearanoe  of  the  islands 
from  civilised  ken  for  twoceuturies.  To  this  chapter  ihere  is  a  useful  geographical 
appendix.  The  remaining  chapters  of  the  volume  dial  wiih  the  natural  history 
and  the  climate  of  the  iiiUads,  the  latter  being  pretty  much  what  other  tropical 


NEW  GEOORAPHrCAL  PUBUCATIONS. 


783 


*  fjtimates  are*  The  second  Tolume  is^  in  ita  wsiy,  quite  erjual  in  importance  to 
the  fi rat.  It  dejals  with  the  ^eoloj^y  of  the  group,  and  that  in  a  very  thorough 
manoer.  Wbeo  he  l>ei,'aii  work  m  this  direction,  io  1&82,  Mr.  Gnppy  was 
influeaoed  by  the  considemtioQ  that,  sinco  scarcely  anything  was  known  of  the 
geological  character  of  thia  large  archipelagos  of  the  Western  Pacific,  a  knowledge 
of  one  group  of  ialanda  might  l>o  in  some  naeasure  extended  to  others.  From  this 
point  of  view  the  value  of  Mr;  Guppy'sohflervationa  h  evident.  They  have  a  special 
intoi^st  in  the  fact  that  he  maintains  from  his  own  investigations  that  Mr,  John 
Murray's  theory  of  coral  reefs  is  ranch  more  couBisteot  with  the  facts  than  Darwin*a. 
In  the  first  volume  Mr.  Gu^ipy  has  some  observations  on  the  distribution  of  ocean 
'depths  in  and  around  the  Solomon  group  which  are  worth  notin;];.  After 
pointing  out  that  the  islands  tall  naturally  into  two  frrcnt  groups,  tliose  mainly 
volcanic  and  those  mainly  calcareous,  and  that  the  smaller  volcanic  islands  divide 
into  two  class<?s— (1)  Those  partly  composed  of  modern,  and  partly  of  ancient 
and  often  highly  cryitalline  rocka ;  (2)  those  composed  entirety  or  mainly  of 
recently  erupted  rocks,  some  times  exhibiting  signs  of  activity — Mr.  Onppy  goes 
on  to  say  that  the  large  islands  are  often  separated  from  each  other  by  depths 
nf  several  hundred  fatlionas.  8t.  Christoval,  for  instance,  is  scpanitM  from  the 
neighbouring  islands  of  Guadalcanar  and  Blalnita  by  straits  in  which  casts  of 
2t3G  fathoms  fail  to  reach  the  bottom.  On  the  other  hand,  the  same  100-fathom 
line  includes  both  Bougainville  and  ChoiseuL  It  would  appear,  however,  that 
depths  of  400  fathoms  commonly  occur  between  the  islands  of  the  Solomon 
grou|3.  Although  the  soundings  hitherto  made  in  this  portion  of  the  Western 
Pacihc  go  to  show  that  this  archipelago,  together  with  New  Ireland  and  New 
Britain,  are  included  within  the  same  lOO-fathom  line,  which  extends  as  a  link 
from  the  adjacent  borders  of  New  Guinea,  we  can  scarcely  urge  the  fact, 
Mr.  Gappy  states,  as  evidence  of  a  former  land  connection,  seeing  that  one  of 
the  most  interesting  features  in  the  geological  history  of  the  region  is  that  of  the 
enormous  elevation  which  these  islands  have  expenence<l  in  recent  and  probably 
Bub-recent  limes,  Mr.  Guppy  arrived  at  the  conclusion  that  there  had  been  a 
recent  upheaval  of  at  least  1500  feet,  while  the  character  of  the  deijosita, 
according  to  Mr.  Murray,  indicate  a  far  more  extensive  upheaval.  Mr,  H.  B. 
Brady,  indeed,  states  that  the  foraminifera  of  some  of  the  Trensury  Island  rocks 
indicate  depths  of  probably  1500  to  2000  fathoms.  The  volumes  contain  many 
illustrations  and  maps  of  some  of  the  islauds. 

GENERAL, 
Blackie,  C. — Geographical    Etymology.      A    Dictionary  of   Place -Names,  with 
an  iDtroduction  by  John  Stuart  Black ie,  London,  John  Murray  :  8vo.,  pp.  xxxix. 
and  243.     Price  Is.    [Presented  by  the  Publisher*] 

This  carefully  compiled  dictionary  ought  to  be  of  much  service  to  teachers 
of  geography  who  desire  to  add  interest  and  thoronghnesa  to  their  teaching.  It 
is  not  80  much  a  dictionary  of  place-names  in  the  ordinary  sense,  as  of  the 
elements  which  go  to  the  composition  of  such  names  iu  various  parts  of  the 
world, 

Trazer,  J.  0, — Totem  ism.  Edinburgh,  A.  &  C  Black,  IS  87  :  8vo.,  pp.  viii.  and 
dn.    Price  3«.  6i<     [Presented  by  the  Publisher.] 

The  basis  of  this  little  vtjlume,  Mr,  Frazer  tells  us,  was  the  collection  of 
data  for  the  article  on  the  subject  in  the  *  Encyclopjedia  Britannica.*  In  that 
article  he  could  only  use  a  selection  of  the  great  amount  of  material  which  he 
had  collected.  The  subject  of  lotemisin  is  one  which  has  the  most  intimate 
relations  'ftith  the  history  of  the  development  of  society,  and,  therefore,  Mr, 
Fra^er  has  done  excellent  service  in  putting  his  carefully  collected  notes  into 
accessible  form,  and  accompanying  them  with  the  most  copious  references. 

QambillO,  Giiaseppe'— Delia  Poiwlaritjl  e  Diffuslono  degli  Studi  Geogmfici. 
Pensieri  c  Suggtjrimcnti  ad  Uso  di  chi  Insegoa  e  di  chi  Impara  Geografia. 
Palermo,  1887 :  8vo.p  pp,  100.     [Presented  by  the  Author.] 

Signor  Gambino  is  Professor  of  Geography  at  the  Technical  Institute  of 
Palermo.     In  this  brochure  he  gives  some  useful  hints  as  to  the  teaching  of 


78*  i*EW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBLICATIONS. 

elementarj  geogi'apliy,  and  the  means  of  populariBiug  the  subject.  He  describes 
a  Coamograph  of  his  own  itivention,  intended  to  demonstrate  tlie  relations 
which  subsist  between  rhe  sun  and  tlie  earth,  A  specimeo  of  the  Cosmograph 
Professor  Gambioo  has  presented  to  the  Society's  educatioDal  collection. 

Ho  worth,  Heiiry  H.  [ll*Fi]^The  Mammoth  and  the  Flood ;  An  attempt  to 
confront  the  Theory  of  Uniformity  with  the  Facta  of  Kecent  Geology.  LondoD, 
Sampson  Low  &  Co.,  1887 :  8vo.>  pp.  ixxiL  and  464.  Price  l&s,  [Preseiited 
by  the  Publisher.] 

As  may  be  inferred  from  the  ti  lie-page,  Mr.  Ho  worth's  evident  purpose  in 
this  massive  volume  is  to  prove  that  cataclysmic  action  has  had  much  to  do 
with  the  developnieDt  of  tlie  globe.  ITie  special  point  around  which  he  pUes  i 
his  evidence  is  his  contention  for  a  univerBal  dehige^  which,  among  other  thingB, 
must  have  suddenly  overwhelmed  the  Siberian  mammoths  and  buried  them  deep 
in  the  resulting  nmd.  It  k  of  course  perfectly  legitimate  to  assail  any  scientific 
theory ;  and  we  know  that  there  are  etill  several  people  who  maintain  that  the 
doctrine  of  (he  rotumilty  of  the  earth  and  the  Kevv  Ionian  system  of  aatronomy 
are  "frauds/  At  the  tame  Lime  it  maybe  adn.itted  that  Mr.  Howorth  has 
done  service  by  runiiing  a  tilt  against  uuiformitariaiiismi  as  it  may  compel 
geologists  to  rc^confcider  the  evidence  in  the  light  of  the  knowledge  that  has  been 
accumulated  since  LyelFs  days.  iiniforniitarianB  need  have  no  fear  of  the 
lesult  of  the  process.  In  the  meantime  it  might  be  well  to  define  precisely 
what  is  meant  by  *'  uniformitarianism,**  about  wirich  very  erroneous  conceptions  ' 
are  prevalent.  The  grtaf  value  of  Mr.  Howortli's  work,  in  our  estimate,  is  the 
vast  store  of  facta  which  he  has  accumulated,  not  only  relaling  to  the  mammoth 
and  Siberia,  but  to  the  remains  of  great  aniojals  in  all  parta  of  the  world,  and 
to  the  traditions  of  a  great  flood  which  are  prevalent  everywhere.  From  this 
point  of  view  even  geogmphers  may  £nd  a  good  deal  in  the  volume  that  will 
prove  suggestive. 

Marcel,  0, — Note  sur  une  Carte  Catalane  de  Dnlceri  ant^rieure  k  TAtlaa  Cstalsii 
de  1375,  Lue  i  la  Socii^te  de  G^graphie  de  Paris  dans  sa  stance  du  7  Janvier, 
1887.  Paris,  Bociete  de  Geographie,  1887:  8vo.,  pp.  12.  [Presented  by  the 
Author.] 

Palgraire*  W*  Gifford. — ^Ulyssea :  or  Scenes  and  Studies  in  many  Lands. 
London,  MBcmillan  ilt  Co.>  1887  ;  8vo.,  pp.  385.  Price  12a.  Gd.  [Presented  by  the 
Publisher.] 

Mr.  Palgrave  is  well  entitled  to  adopt  as  a  motto  for  this  volume  of  varied 
contents  Hunice's  oflen-quoled  line  **Qui  mores  hominum  multomm  vidit, 
et  urbea."  He  leads  us  here  from  Anatolia  and  Georgia  to  Egypt,  ncross  i 
the  Atkntic  to  the  We^t  Indies,  and  thence  across  the  Pacitic  to  the  Philip- 
pines. Under  the  heading  of  Phra-Bat  we  have  a  disquisition  on  Buddhism  and 
other  religions  ;  then,  aittr  a  vitsit  to  Hong  Kong  and  Japan,  we  once  more  croes 
to  America  to  follow  Mr,  Pal  grave  from  Montevideo  to  Paraguay,  the  whole 
being  rounded  off  with  "Alka mat's  Love,"  a  stirring  story  of  Nejd.  The 
volume,  as  might  be  expected,  is  entertaining  reading,  but  at  the  same  time 
there  ia  much  in  it  of  geographical  interest.  Frc»m  this  point  of  view,  the  " 
paper  on  Turkii^h  Georgia^  and  even  that  en  Upper  Ugypt  and  Thebes,  are  well 
worth  reading.  The  chapter  entitled  "West  Indian  Memori^"  describes 
Mr.  Pal  grave's  visit  to  the  Boiling  Lake  of  Dominica  ;  another  chapter  deals 
with  MsJay  life  in  the  Philippine* ;  others,  with  Hong  Kong,  Kioto^and  the 
journey  from  Montevideo  to  Paraguay,  already  referred  to. 

[Eussia.]— Handbook  for  Travellers  in  Russia,  Poland,  and  Finland^  including  the 
Crimea,  Caucasus,  Siberia,  and  Central  Asia.  4th  edition,  London,  John  Murray, 
1888:  8vo,,  pp.  viii.  and  571.    Price  18». 

A  new  edition  of  Mr,  Murray's  *  Eussia '  was  much  wanted.    Mr.  F.  MicheU 
has  evidently  taken  great  pains  to  bring  the  book  up  to  date,   and  for  the 


NEW  GEOGRAPHICAL  PUBUCATIONS.  786 

more  frequented  routes,  his  guidance  will  no  doubt  be  found  trustworthy. 
The  addition  of  special  maps  of  the  Crimea,  and  Caucasus,  and  Siberia,  would 
have  improved  the  book.  The  sections  dealing  with  Finland  and  the 
Caucasus  have  been  enlarged.  The  tendency  of  the  time  in  the  matter  of 
guide-books  is  towards  small  handy  volumes,  dealing  thoroughly  with  a 
particular  and  limited  district — and  to  this  the  most  conservative  editors  will 
sooner  or  later  have  to  bow.  In  the  case  of  the  Caucasus,  it  would  perhaps  be 
premature  to  publish  a  special  guide.  Yet  its  incorporation  in  a  volume  which 
surveys  mankind  from  Warsaw  to  Yladivostock  is  unfavourable  to  any  adequate 
treatment.  There  are  some  routes  which  surely  required  mention,  even  in 
the  very  restricted  space  that  could  be  available  in  this  volume.  Attention 
might  have  been  more  prominently  called  to  the  fact  that  the  new  railroad  to 
Novorossisk  will  serve  (and  was  already  used  this  year  by  visitors  to  the  Cau- 
casian Baths)  as  part  of  a  circular  tour  of  the  country  in  conjunction  with  the 
Dariel,  the  Trans-Caucasian  Railway  and  the  Black  Sea  steamers.  Some 
routes  across  the  western  mountains — notably  the  Mamisson  Pass — might  be 
inserted.  It  is  at  last  being  made  passable  for  carriages.  Excursions  to 
Suanetia  and  the  base  of  Elbruz  are  now  easy  to  horsemen,  and  a  few  hints 
as  to  how  to  make  them  would  be  useful.  The  existence  of  the  great  central 
group  of  peaks  and  glaciers  midway  between  Kazbek  and  Elbruz  should  be 
indicated  by  more  than  a  single  allusion  to  one  of  its  summits.  There  is  an 
excellent  hotel  (U.  de  France)  at  Yladikafkaz,  and  at  the  post-stations  on  the 
Dariel  road  good  food  and  fair  beds  are  procurable. 

Throughout  the  section  it  appears  to  be  often  assumed  that  the  traveller  will 
be  unable  to  ride,  and  such  a  restriction  of  course  makes  any  visit  to  the  Caucasus 
sadly  incomplete.  The  works  cf  Dr.  von'Kadde  should  be  among  those  recom- 
mended to  travellers,  and  a  suggestion  that  his  advice  should  be  sought  at  Tiflis, 
where  he  resides  as  Director  of  the  Museum,  might  have  been  of  assistance  to 
travellers  desirous  of  seeing  what  cannot  be  seen  from  the  post-roads — the 
natural  beauties  of  the  Caucasus. 

Thompson,  Charles  M. — Manual  of  the  Sextant,  containing  Instructions  for  its 
Use  in  determining  Time,  Latitude  and  Longitude,  and  the  Variation  of  Compass. 
London,  John  Bumpus,  1887:  8vo.,  pp.  xiii.  and  110,  [Presented  by  the 
Author.] 

In  the  preface  the  author  states  that  his  aim  in  publishing  this  work  is  to 
enable  any  person,  even  though  he  be  entirely  unacquainted  with  astronomical 
observations,  to  obtain  reliable  determinations  of  latitude,  longitude,  &c. ;  and  by 
the  concise  manner  in  which  he  explains  the  construction  and  use  of  the  sextant, 
as  well  as  by  the  examples  of  the  manner  in  which  the  desired  results  are  to  bo 
computed,  he  has  certainly  done  much  to  clear  away  difficulties,  and  attain  the 
end  he  has  in  view.  It  is,  however,  a  fact  that,  without  some  instruction,  there 
are  but  few  persons  who  have  become  competent  observers  and  computers,  the 
exceptions  generally  being  those  who  have  had  previous  experience  in  the  use  of 
other  surveying  instruments,  and  the  advantage  of  a  mathematical  education. 

There  is  one  remark  of  Mr.  Thompson's,  with  regard  to  the  late  Captain 
George's  artificial  horizon,  which  we  cannot  pass  unnoticed.  The  author  says 
that  he  has  known  instances  of  errors  of  as  much  as  7'  33"  in  latitude,  caused 
by  carelessly  floating  the  glass  disc  on  the  mercury.  This  would  supix)8e  an 
error  in  the  double  altitude  of  no  less  than  15'  6",  which,  if  it  existed,  would  at 
once  lead  to  the  rejection  by  all  practical  observers  of  this  form  of  artificial 
horizon ;  but  that  such  errors  ever  exist  is  entirely  contrary  to  our  experience, 
after  having  used  this  instrument  constantly  for  the  past  twelve  years,  in  prefer- 
ence to  the  older  form  of  rooted  horizon,  which  Mr.  Thompson  recommends  as 
being  the  more  reliable  form. 

The  arranjijement  of  examples,  &c.,  is  very  much  the  same  as  that  followed 
in  the  Society's  *  flints  to  Travellers,'  and  the  author  may  be  congratulated  on 
having  produced  a  book  which  on  the  whole  is  likely  to  be  of  service  to  those 
travellers  who  will  take  the  trouble  to  read  carefully,  and  follow  the  directions 
it  contains. — J,  C. 


786 


NEW  MAPS. 


Veth,  F,  J. — ^Ontdekkers  en  ODikrzoekers ;  zevental  levetisschetseii,  ter  tweede 
verbcterde  en  vermeerderde  uitgave  bijeeDveraameld,  door  P.  J.  Yeth,  Leiden, 
E,  J.  Brill,  1B84  :  8vo.,  pp»  xi,  and  343.     [Preseotcd  by  the  Author.] 

CoDsists  of  a  series  of  biographical  notices  of — J,    Philippus   Baldaens. 
II,  Samuel   van  de  Piitte.      IIL  Caspar  George  Carl  Reinwardt*      IV-  Jan 
Frederik  Gerrit  BrnmuDd.     V.  Taco  Hoorda.    VL  Wolter  Robert  van  Hoe^ell. 
YIL  Jan  Karel  Jakob  de  Jotjge. 
Hendrik  Adriann  van  Beede  tot  Drakeiit«?iD.    8vo.  [1887],  pp.  101.    [Pre- 
sented by  tlie  Author.] 

Wilson,  [Col.  Sir]  C.  W.— Extrdcta  from  a  Paper  on  the  Utilisation  of  the  Ordnance 
Survey  MapH,  with  special  Tefurence  to  Local  Administration  and  the  Sale  and 
Transfer  of  Land,  read  at  tht-  Meeting  of  the  Britii^h  Association  at  Manchester, 
0th  Sfptember,  1687,  by  Col.  Sir  0.  \V.  Wilson,  k»c.d.,  k.c.m.g.,  f.r.s.,  b«k.. 
Director  of  the  Ordnance  Survey,    8vo.,  pp.  16.    i 


NEW  MAPS. 

(By  J.  Coles,  Map  Curator  rms,^ 
WORLD, 

Johnston^  W.  &  A.  K-— Commercial  Chart  of  the"  World  on  Mercator's  Projec- 
tion from  the  litest  and  best  aulhoritiea,  containinj^  the  poaition  of  every  place  of 
commercial  importance,  showing  the  princi|jal  currents  of  the  ocean  and  the  chief 
steam-pncket  routes.  With  enlargetl  maps  of  Central  Europe,  the  principal 
British  PossesaiDns,  the  Suez  Canai  and  Nile  Delta,  Isthmus  of  Panama,  &c. 
Equatorial  scale  5*^  to  an  inch,  4  sheets.  Ediobcrgh  and  Loodon,  W.  Sc  A.  K, 
Johns^tou,  1887, 

It  is  now  two  years  since  the  last  edition  of  this  excellent  map  was 
publbbedj  and  in  the  present  issue  necessary  corrections  have  lieen  made% 
These,  however,  are  but  few  in  number,  aa  great  care  had  been  taken  in  the 
protlucliou  of  the  previous  issue.  Nearly  every  place  of  commercial  importance 
has  been  laid  dowui  atid  the  names  of  insignificant  jilacea  which  are  m  often 
crowded  into  maps  ot  this  de8cri[Hion,  have  been  wisely  omitted  For  the  pur- 
ix)ses  of  general  refereuce  in  the  office  or  library  this  Clmrt  of  the  World  is 
quite  equal  to  any  published  in  England.  It  shows  all  means  of  commuDica- 
tion  by  rail,  steamer^  and  teltgraphj  the  directions  of  ocean  currents,  the 
minimum  depth  of  water  on  sandbanks,  the  depth  of  the  sea  in  various  jxwi- 
tionsj  the  distances  in  nautical  miles  of  the  routes  followed  by  mail  steamers, 
and  much  other  matter  of  interest.  Enlarged  maps  of  Central  Europe,  the 
principal  British  Possessions,  the  Suez  Canal  and  Nile  Delta,  and  the  Isthmus 
of  Panama,  are  al^  given. 

EUROPE. 

Beutschen  in  Europa^ — Ubersichtskarte  der  Verhreitnng  der  — ,  fiir  den 
deutschen  Schulverein  zusammengestellt  von  H.  Kiepert.  Berlin,  Dietricb 
Reimer,  1887,  Scale  1 :  3,CX)0,000  or  41'  G  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Price 
25.  (Dulau.) 
Enflftlld  and  Wales.— Popular  Map  of  -^-^ ,  1887.  Scale  1  :  700,000  or  9*5  geo- 
graphical miles  to  an  inch.     Mason  &  Payne,  London,  E.C.     Price  10*.  Gd, 

In  this  map  all  the  mil  ways  and  main  roads  have  been  carefully  laid  down, 
and  the  popuUtion  of  towns  which  in  1881  excetdetl  5000,  and  from  that  number 
to  100,000  or  above,  are  indicated  in  four  series,  by  means  of  coloured  lines 
drawn  under  the  names  of  the  places.  In  additiun  to  this  the  boundary  of  the 
Metropolitan  Board  of  Worka  is  kid  down,  and  a  table  is  given,  comi>iled  from 


NEW  MAPS. 


787 


tbe  cecsuB  of  1881,  showing  the  populatiotis,  areas,  gross  rental,  poor-rate,  and 
number  of  paupers  in  each  county  of  England  and  Wales.     The  map  is  clearly 
drawD,  and  the  lettering  is  distinct. 
Hlirg- — TouriB ten -K arte  vom  oberen  Mtirg-  tind  Renchthalgebiet,  1 ;  5O,0CK}  or 
1*4  iocbea  to  a  geographical  mile.      Yon  A*  Wiilde.      Keutlingen,     Price  2s, 
{Dulau,) 
ScaEdmaviea.— Politiscbc  Wantlkarte  von .    Scale  1 : 1,500,000  or  20*4  geo- 
graphical miles  10  an  inch.     Richard  Kiepert'a  Sclml-Wand-Atlas  der  Liiuder 
Euroj^'a.  AchtzehnteLieferung.  BerliBi  Dietrich  Reimer,  1887.  Price  9*.  {Dulaa.) 

Sadost-Europa— Karte  von ,  die  Staaten  der  Balkan-Hal binsel.  sammt  Theilen 

Y.  OBterreich-Urjgam  bis  Budapest  u.  Wien  und  den  iibrigen  angrenzeuden 
Landern.  Red! girt  u.  beschrieben  v.  A.  Steinhauser,  k,  k.  Regiorangsratk 
Yerlag  von  Artaria  und  Comp.  in  Wien,  1887.  Scale  1 :  2,000,000  or  27  geo 
grapfaical  miles  to  an  inch.     Price  4s.  6i/.     (^Dtilau.) 


OBDNANOE  SUBVEY  MAPS. 

PubtJc&tloiu  iMiifld  darlDg  the  moD&fa  of  Octobsr  ISBT, 
l-lncll — General  SUpt  i— 

EafiLAKto  A!TP  Walw:  New  SerlM.  Sbwl  121  C«iUhie),  If.  Scjotlato:  102  (bllU),  119  (wtUne) 
If.  9J.  tacli.    IKELASTD :  MO  (hlUs),  U. 

S-lnoli — County  Mftpa  :^^ 

^ai^mti  ANi>  WALif*r  BrecknoolMhlre :  13  NE,  u  S,W^  23  at:,  ao  N.W.;  U,  wch, 
OanLbrldffBBliire  :  u  N.W..  ^»  S.\\\  24  S.K..  29  N.K.,  ao  S,E.,  32  S.W.,  S,E.,  a^i  S,W„  4  i  S.fi, 
m  S.W.;  II,  CAcb.  Caidiguoeliire :  i  N.W.,  43  N.fcl;  is.  eacii.  Carmarthenflhire: 
sN.E.S.K..*  N, u .,  F.\\\,  10  N.K..  1 1  S.W^39  S>1. 40  N.w.,aw.,4»  N.W. ;  Ueacli.  Cornwall : 
fis  N.W.J  1*.  Berbyahire  a:i  N.W. ;  i#.  Bevonshlre :  T8  N.K.,  S.K..  lou  N.W.,  lis  N,E.  j 
IrcAch.  Dorsetshire :  H  NE.,  34  K.H,  S.K,.  3S  N.W.,  aW,  42  N.W..  N.E.,  43  N.W,.  N.K, 
44N.VV.J  II.  eicli,  Herefordshire:  40  S.E.,  42  .s.w,,  43  N.H'„  sx.,u  S.H,45  N.E..  S.W., 
SE.»  4IS  N.W,  4T  aw..  &0  N.E.  61  N,W.,  N.E,-.  I*,  each.  Himtin^donahire:  C  NW., 
10  N.W-.  S.W.»  SE..  II  N.VV.,  14  N.W,,  aW./ai'L,  16  N.W,.  17  SAV.,  SJ!: ,  IS  N.W.,  aE..  2t  N.W, 

8.W..  aE.,  22  N.E-,  S.W..  b.ll,  25  aw,.  S  K., a:  N.E,.  aE.  j  n.  tach.   Lei cestera hire :  42  N.E. 
1*.    Lincolnshire:  30  N,W,  N,E.,  S,W„  aE.,  41  S.W.,  &5  N,W..  aW.,  &4  N.E,  aW..aE.. 

2i}  s,w.,  s.h'   74  N.VV.,  N,E.,  aR.  7»  N.W..  N.E-,  aE,  87  N  w.,  aw.,an,  JK»  N.W..  104  aw,, 

123 aE..  134  N.E.,  13A  N.W^  N.R,aE„  136  N.E„  aW..  aE.,  138  N.E .  139  S.W..  N.E..  S  K.  140  N.W., 
N.E.*  141  N.W..  142  aw.,  144  N.E..  147  aw..  1*9  N,E. ;  I*,  e*cb.  Merionethshire :  16  aE.. 
29  N-W^  3*  N.E..  45  N.E..  aE.  46  K.W,,  N.E^  aE^  AH  N.W.|  li.  e*tli,  Norfolk:  e2  aW.» 
«7  aK ;  u.  e*cii.  Shropshire  -  33  n:e^  3&  N.W..  aE..  36  N.W.,  40  N.w ,  42  5.K,  aw..  aE., 
44  ax, ;  U-  ejich.  Somersetshire :  3&  S  ^l,  59  S.E.,  eo  N.E.,  «i  N.W.^  aw, ;  u.  tvh. 
Stalfordahire :  a  S.W..  9  s.w .  25  X.E.,  33  N.W.,  60  aE. ;  I*,  each-  SnlToik:  la  aW., 
13  N.W.,  67  N.W.,  N,K., ea  N.W.,  aE.,  70  .aw,.  77  N.W.,  N.E-,  aw„  aE..  78  N.W.,  ^w„  ^ aw,. 
RH  N.B.;  If.  each.  Warwickshire:  4  aE ,  conialnlug  Sulum  Col.lfleU;  lo  S.W..  ii  N.E., 
33  S.W..  coDiAinlDg  Warwick ;  I*,  ctcb.  Wiltshire :  66.  canUhitng  Sallabury.  2#.  8<1. 
St^-inoh— P>f^  Mftpii  :— 

EvoLAND  AiTD  Walej:  Breokmockshire :  XXVI.  t.  ii,  12,  3««  e«cb.  C&nLbridffeshire  : 
XL  3,  U,  12.  l«.  XXIH  3.  10,  U.  XXX  VI.  5,6.  4#.  €»cb ;  XXXIX.  1,3*.;  XL.  «,  4,. ;  ,?L.  U,  3f,; 
XtVI.  &.4J.;  XLVL  »,  11,  13.  i(t,  Lllf.  2,3«  eacti;  L[IL4,4j.  ;  LllL&.3t.;  Llll.  »,  H,  4«.  eAcb. 
Oai^graiLshire :  Vll.  r.  1 6,  3j.  etch.  Carmarthenshire :  X X VL  fi,  3r.  Devoiishlre : 
CXIV,  3*  11,  »,  ir  e«cii;  CXIX.  US.  CXXV.  1.3*.  Ciidu  CJC.W.  2,4/r.;  CXXV.  fi.CXXVL  7,3*.«»ch; 
Are*  Book:  r^t^rtary,  it.  Gd.  Porsetsbire  :  L  l&,  l€,  II L  i.  <«.  e«cb ;  HL  11,  3«. ;  TIL  tA,  -11.; 
la,  lit,  IV.  «,  11,  3j  eacij.  Herefordshire:  MIL  iq,  XXVJIL  12,  XXXI.  4.  7. 11,  XXXlLt, 
XXXIII.  10,  XXX  VL  s,  3*.  each,  Leicestershire :  XLVJ IL  4.  *>. ;  XLVIiL  e,  ii,ifi,  3*.  t«ch; 
Area  Hooka  Karkliy,  Nfwioii  Liufura,  I*  «<»cli.  Llnoolnahire  :  VIL  n,  \o,  13.  VIII.  ft,  13,  Xll. 
1,3*.  ejwh;  XIL  3.  4t. ;  XIL  4,  6.  3j,  each;  XV'IIL  1,  6i. ;  LlV.  4,  &.  6,  10,  LXXn.2,6,  LXXVll. 
e,  12,  34.  each.  Norfblk  :  XXL  12,  le,  3*  each  ;  LVl  3.  4.  6,  J  1, 4#.  emcji  1  LXVL  16.»<.;  LXVIII. 
3,  4f.;  LXXVIJL  11  and  12  (oq  one).  LXXXL  lu,  &i.p«cb;  XCL  li>,  14.4«.(Mcfa.  Korth&S2pton- 
shire:  XLV.  U,  3*.  Nottinarhamshire :  Area  R-jk*:  KjikrlM* Huckerton.  Kelham,  EeraalU 
KnecMll,  Maplebeck.  t».  each,  Somersetshire :  XX X,  9.  3f . ;  X XX,  1 3, 4i. ;  LXXli.  t«.  «#.  set. ; 
LXXIt  12.  64.;  LXX.XI.  13,LXXXV11L  6.  4«.  e^icb;  XCJLn.Uj.  StafTordahire :  Are«Buok: 
TStteoIiall.  U.  ftd.  Suffolk:  I4.  ii,  m,;  IL  U,  XXX.  16,  bi.  eActi;  X.XXL  6.  4i,  AreABookar 
OockOeld,  St  Maiy.  NK^^vmorkeL.  If,  eacb.  Warwickshire :  X  VJIL  11, 15,  XX VIL  7.  ».34.««cti; 
XXVli.  9,  4f.;  XWIL  Hi,  13,XXVIL  14,  15.  .\XX1L  5,  St.tAchi  XXXIL  0,  ly,  4f.  eachi  XXXIL 
lU  12,  16.  3*,  eacb ;  XXXl  V,  3,  4«.  5  XXXI V.  S,  7.  12,  3f.  each  ;  XXXI V.  Ih,  4f. ;  XXXIV*  Id,  XLV, 
11,  3*,  each ;  XLV.  lfi»  u.  Wiltshire  :  XXVIIL  e.  L,  16.  LL  7.  10,  LVIL  14,  LVlll.  2,  5,  fl,  9, 
10,  LJX.  %  6,  LXUL  1,  4,  8,  3«.  each.  Worcestershire:  Ar(^4  Iktok^:  Bftdsey,  Brttfortija, 
tTbiirch  Iluneyboumc.  If,  «acb ;  CbitueJ,  1/.  <Ui.*  Cliru>ij  uiwn-Terae.  Daylesfunl,  Gnut  Witley, 
OMberrow,  s»be  iilej  V^atab,,  WlchcnfurJ^  li.  cjacb. 

Town  Plana— io-f«!t  Bcale  i— 

KsQtAKU  Aifi>  Walw  :  llridr»at<?r.  L.  10,  »;  U  11. 1.  6,  7,  8. 12, 13, 11. 18, 02,  23;  I*  14.  4,  L.  16, 
3.  12,  2f.  each,  T4!icc»i<*r,  XXX.  10,  19.  22;  XXXL  14.  T.  «.  9, 11,  12,  13,  I4.1*.eacb.  ^Jaali, 
XVf.  1,  14,  IS,  24,  2j.  enuch,  fdinoaton,  XI.  9.  ?.  ^>  9,  12.  13, 14,  18,  31.  etcli.  WsfmlDSter,  LL  S. 
T,  21,     Wan*ick,  XXXHL  I3»  10  j  XXX 111.  14,  1,2*. 

(.Stanford^  Agent} 


788 


NEW  MAPS. 


ASIA. 

Aflien.— Wandkarte  von .    Scale  1 :  6,700,000  or  90*4  geographical  miles  to 

au  iDcb.  PhyaikAliscIie  Atit^gabe  voa  Karl  Bamberg.  16  sbeete.  Bedlo,  Clinx. 
Price  lbs,    {Dulau,) 

AFRICA. 

AbysaiBia,  &c. — Rure  (AltipiaBi),  Habab,  Aagbedd,  Bogoe  ed  Abiasima  Setten- 
triouale.  Carta  Provvisoria  coatrutta  dal  Cap.  Manfredo  Camperio  e  disegnata  dall* 
lug.  U,  Ugolini  seoondo  le  ultime  carte  pubblicate  delle  **  Geogr*"*  Mitteiluugen  ** 
di  Gotha  ed  i  rilievi  degli  S.  M'*  logkBe  ed  Italiano  ed  altri  dati  originali,  £>et- 
tembre  1887,  Scale  1  : 1,000,000  €r  13-6  geograpbical  miles  to  an  iiicb,  latit. 
Cartog.  Ital     L.  Kdia,  Roma.    {Duiau.) 

Afrika.— Neue  Handkarte  voq  ,     Scale  1 :  30,000,000  or  411  geograpbical 

miles  to  an  inch,  Mit  vier  Karfcone:  Eamerun,  Siid-Afrika,  Nillander,  Ost- 
Afrika.  H.  Kiepert's  Klciaer  Hand-Atlas,  No.  13,  Gezeiclinet  von  Richard 
Kiei)ert,    Berlin,  D,  Reimer,     Price  1^.    {Duluu.)  I 

8pBcial*Karte  xtm im  MaasBtiib  von  1 : 4,000,000  or  55 '5  geograpliical 

milea  to  an  iocb.  (10  Blatt.)  Entworfen  von  Hermann  Habonicbt,  bearbeitet 
Ton  demselbcn,  Bnmo  Domann  und  Dr.  Richard  Ltiddecke.     Zweite  Auflage. 

IV.  Lieferung.  Inbiilt  i  J^sektioii  Central-Sudan  (5)  nebst  Bemerkungen  von  H. 
Habeniclit.    t^ektion  Dekgoa-Bai  (10)  nebst  Beuaerkungen  von  Dr.  R.  Ltiddecke.   ' 

V.  (Scblu«s-)  Lieterung,  Inhalt :  Sektioa  West-Sahara  (1)  nebst  Bemerkungen 
VOQ  B,  Domann.  Sektion  Agypten  (3)  nebat  Beraerkungen  von  H.  Habenicht. 
Gotha,  Justus  Perthes,  1887.    Price  3«.  each  part.    {Duluu,} 

With  the  issue  of  thcae  tiro  numbers  (he  second  edilion  of  Ibia  map  is  com- 
pleted.    Among  the  most  important  corrections  and  alterations  which  have 
taken  place  are  the  following: — ^On  sheet  1  the  western  boundary  of  Algeria, 
L  which  was  ahow^n  as  definitely  fixed  on  the  previous  edition,  is  now  marked  as 

I  approximate  only,  the  bouodary  of  Morocco  is  extended  farther  south,  new  I 

I  steamer  lines  are  laid  down,  and  the  routes  in  the  Sahara  have  been  in  some  | 

I  instances  changed,      1  he  interior  boundary  of  the  Fr<:-nch  possessions  is  sbown,  | 

I  and  more  detail  in  the  Western  Sahara  given.     On  sheet  5  the  British  Niger 

I         Company's  territory  is  shown  as  extendiug  farther  up  the  river  Binn^;  altera- 
1  tioDs    have  also    been    made  in   the  German   boundaries   in   the   Cameroon 

I  district.     The  surveys  of  M.  G,  de  Brazza  and  Mr*  Grenfell  are  laid  down,  Dr. 

I  Junker's  work  is  shown,  and  several  corrections  have  been  made  in  the  r^on 

north  of  the  Congo.  Two  additional  inset  mapi  of  Reunion  and  Mauntius 
are  given  on  sheet  10,  and  new  work  is  shown  south  of  the  ZambesL  The 
bonudaries  of  the  Xew  Repnblic  are  given,  and  those  of  Zulu-Land  have  been 
altered. 

The  above  are  only  some  of  the  numerous  corrections  which  have  been  made, 
and  the  map  as  it  now  appears  is  without  doubt  the  best  general  map  of  Africa  ^ 
that  has  ever  been  published.  J 

AMERICA. 

Canada* — Map  of  the   Dominion  of  ,  corrected   to  January   188T.      Scale 

1 ;  6,200,000  or  85  geograpbical  miles  to  an  inch.      Department  of  the  Interior* 
E.  Deville,  Surveyor  General,  Domioion  Lands  Lithographic  Office,  Ottawa- 
United  States.— Map  of  the  Westero •     Scale   1:2,900,000  or  39' 7   geo- 
graphical miles  to  an  inch.    Mason  Sr  Payne,  London,  E.G.,  1&87,    Price  10«.  6t/. 

This  map  Includes  parts  of  Alabama,  lodiana,  Michigan,  and  all  the  States 
and  territories  west  of  them.  The  railways  appear  to  have  been  laid  down  with 
care,  and  all  county  bcjundaries  are  given* 


NEW  MAPS.  789 

GHABTS. 
ITnited  States  Charts* — No.  1016.  West  Coast  of  Central  America.    San  Juan 
del  Sur  to  Judas  Point,  1887. — Pilot  Chart  of  the  North  Atlantic  Ocean,  November 
1887.    U.S.  Hydrographic  OfiBoe,  Washington,  D.O.    Commander  J.  R.  Bartlett, 
n.8.N.,  Hydrographer  to  the  Bureau  of  Navigation. 

ATLASES. 

Bengal,  Bay  of — Charts  of  the ,  and  adjacent  sea  north  of  the  Equator, 

showing  the  Mean  Pressure,  Winds  and  Currents,  in  each  month  of  the  year. 
Published  by  order  of  His  Excellency  the  Viceroy  and  Governor-General  of  India 
in  Council  by  the  Meteorological  Department  of  the  Government  of  India. 

This  atlas  contains  a  set  of  charts,  exhibiting  the  meteorological  conditions 
in  the  Bay  of  Bengal  for  every  month  in  the  year.  The  data  from  which  they 
have  been  compiled  are  the  marine  observations  recorded  over  the  Bay  of  Bengal 
between  the  years  1856  and  1878,  which  were  supplied  by  the  London  Meteoro- 
logical Office  to  the  Meteorological  Department  of  India,  and  were  prepared  for 
Sublication  by  Mr.  W.  L.  Dallas.  The  methods  adopted  by  the  London 
leteorological  Office  in  discussing  corresponding  data  for  the  seas  adjacent  to 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  have  in  general  been  followed  in  these  charts,  the  dis- 
tribution of  pressure  has,  however,  in  this  atlas  been  shown  by  isobars,  instead 
of  curves  of  '*  relative  frequency  **  as  given  on  the  Cape  charts,  and  the  observa- 
tions have  been  corrected  to  the  mean  of  the  day.  The  direction  and  frequency 
of  the  winds  are  shown  by  wind-roses,  Roman  figures  indicate  the  percentage  of 
gales,  as  compared  with  the  total  number  of  winds  from  all  points  of  the 
compass,  the  space  to  which  each  wind-rose  refers  is  enclosed  by  thick  rectangular 
lines,  and  the  number  of  observations  on  which  the  wind-rose  is  foimded  is  shown 
by  figures  within  the  fiducial  circle. 

Small  black  arrows  show  the  actual  observations  of  those  marine  currents 
which  amounted  to  16  miles  and  upwards  in  twenty-four  hours.  The  arrows 
indicate  the  directions  in  which  the  currents  fiow,  the  length  of  each  arrow 
showing  the  rate  of  the  movement,  according  to  the  scale  given.  A  page  of 
explanatory  and  statistical  Ittterpress  accompanies  each  chart. 

Charts  of  the ,  and  adjacent  sea  north  of  the  Equator,  showing  the 

Specific  Gravity,  Temperature  and  Currents  of  the  Sea  Surface.  Published  by 
order  of  His  Excellency  the  Viceroy  and  Governor-General  of  India  and  Council, 
by  the  Meteorological  Department  of  the  Government  of  India.    Price  35.  4J. 

This  is  a  supplement  to,  and  covers  the  same  area  as  the  series  of  barometric 
wind  and  current  charts.  They  are  lour  in  number  and  represent :  (1)  The 
mean  specific  gravity  of  the  sea-water ;  (2)  The  mean  temperature  of  the  sea- 
surface  ;  (3)  The  general  resultant  direction  of  all  current  observations ;  they 
are  divided  into  rectangular  areas  of  two  degrees  of  latitude,  and  two  degrees  of 
longitude. 

Oesterreich-TTng^am. — Physikalisch-Statistischcr  Hand- Atlas  von  ,  in  24 

Karten  mit  erlautemdem  Text,  unter  Mitwirkung  von  Vincenz  v.  Haardt,  Prof. 
Dr.  Anton  Kerner  Bitter  v.  Marilaun,  Ministerial  rath  Dr.  J.  Lorenz  Bitter  v. 
Liburnau,  Dr.  Franz  Bitter  v.  Le  Monnier,  General-Major  Carl  Sonklar  v.  Instatten, 
Prof.  Dr.  Franz  Toula,  herausgegeben  von  Dr.  Josef  Chavanne  und  ausgefuhrt  in 
Eduard  Holzel's  Geographischem  Institute.  VIII.  Lieferung.  Inhalt:  Nr.  7. 
Die  Vertheilung  der  Hagelfalle  (mit  3  Cartons  zu  Karte  Nr.  18,  20,  23).  Nr.  14. 
Florenkarte.  Nr.  176.  Abgrenzung  imd  Eintheilung  der  Militar-Territorial- 
Bezirke,  nach  dem  Stande  vom  Januar  1883  (als  Ergiinzung  zu  Karte  Nr.  17 
gratis).  Nr.  19.  Karte  der  Dichtigkeit  der  Bevolkerung.  "Wien,  Eduard  Holzel, 
1887.    Price  7«.    (Dulau.) 

This  is  the  concluding  issue  of  the  Austro-Hungarian  Statistical  and  Physical 
Hand  Atlas.    It  contains  seven  maps  and  explanatory  letterpress.    On  the 


790 


NEW  MAPS. 


first  sheet  four  Bupplementary  maps  are  given,  Bhovving  the  numbers  of  townehipB 
to  the  square  mile,  iJie  fiistribution  of  swine,  the  frequency  of  bail-Btorms,  and 
the  state  of  education  ;  rioni  this  latter  it  will  be  seen  that  a  very  large  propor- 
tion of  the  ixipiiltition  ciin  ucitlier  road  nor  write.  The  next  is  a  botanical  map 
of  the  Empire  nn  which  is  shown  the  diBtributiou  of  flur«.  Tlie  two  remaining 
maps  have  refi-rence  to  the  military  districts,  and  density  of  population* 

Fem« — Nucvo  Atlas  Geo^afico  del  - — -.  Dedicado  A  la  JuventUil  Perruana*  Obra 
poethuma  del  Dr.  Mariano  Felifje  Pa2  Soldan,  1887.  Lima,  Libreria  Franoesa 
Cientifica  J.  GalUnd^  Calle  de  Falacio  24. 

This  atlas  is  the  work  of  a  Bon  of  that  well-known  geographer,  the  late 
Sr.  Dr,  Don  Mariano  Felipe  Paz  Soldan,  to  whom  we  are  indebted  for  the  large 
atlas  of  Peru,  which  prcviotiiily  bns  been  the  only  reliable  work  to  which 
reference  could  be  niflde  by  those  who  wished  to  enquire  into  the  details  of  the 
geography  of  many  parts  of  the  Republic.  In  the  present  atla«  many  corrections 
and  alterations  will  hi  found,  as  the  author  has  had  at  his  dis|X)aal  the  results  of 
explorations  and  route  surveys  which  did  not  exist  wlieu  his  lather  was  engaged 
in  the  production  of  his  atlas,  la  addition  to  the  maps  of  each  department,  a 
general  map  of  Peru,  statifil:ics  with  reference  to  the  railways,  and  a  list  of  the 
principal  towns,  &c,^  are  given.  There  is  much  contained  in  this  atlas  which  is 
hi«5hly  interesting,  and  it  tbrnis  a  valuable  addition  to  the  Map  Koom  collection. 

Statistical  Atlas  of  Commercial  Geograpliy.— The -,  by  E.  J,  Hastings. 

W.  &  A.  K.  Johnston,  Edinburgh  and  London. 

This  atlas  contains  a  series  of  diflgirama  illustrating  the  principal  facts  in 
connection  with  tlie  commerce  of  the  United  Kinj^dom  and  its  def cadencies, 
and  also  of  other  leading  countrieR.  The  plan  on  which  the  diagrams  are  cun- 
Btructed  is  at  once  simple  and  eflective.  The  approximate  amonnt  of  exports, 
imports,  (fee,  being  represenied  by  sqiuirea,  the  value  or  quantity  of  each  i^ 
stated  on  every  sheet,  and  in  this  manner  auy  i>erj5on  can  see  at  a  glance  what 
are  the  princijjal  products  and  resources  of  each  country,  and  will  also  be  able  to 
form  a  very  accurate  estimate  on  the  imfjortant  question  of  supply  and  demand. 
The  statistica  on  wiiich  the  diagrams  are  based  have  been  compiled  by  Miss 
Hastings  from  Parliamentary  and  official  returns.  Those  referring  more  imme- 
diately to  the  United  Kingilom  are  chiefly  for  the  year  1886,  but  the  mineral 
statistics  and  those  referring  to  the  colonies  and  foreign  countries  have  been 
given  for  1885,  no  returns  on  the  subject  being  available  for  a  later  date. 

The  need  of  such  an  atlas  as  this  has  been  much  felt,  and  the  conTenient 
form  in  which  it  has  been  published  will  also  greatly  add  to  its  value. 


I 


I 


2am*y/cnmt.  bA.,  n^LtmS^mmm 


LV.V  PORTO'S). 


£ndli«h  Miles 

O  WW  M 


'Wmt^^Mn^. 


PiihH 


» 

} 


(    791    ) 


INDEX. 


provvisoria   con- 
Camperio  (New 


A. 

Aarau  (^graphical  Society,  *  Jahrbuch  * 

of  the,  121 
A — k,  The  Pandit  Krishna,  jonmeys  in 

Tibet,  369 
Ababdi  tribe,  660 
A-BassaDgo  tribe,  295 
AbduUa's  village.  182 
Abercroraby,    Hon.  Ralph.  Weather:    a 

popular    exposition  of   the    nature    of 

weather  changes  from  day  to  day  (New 

Publications),  719 
Abessinien,    t)ber8icht8karte   der   Beise- 

ronten  des  Kapit&ns  A.  Oecchio  nnd  des 

Ingenienrs  G.   Chiarini   im    sUdlichen 

(New  Maps),  64 
Abyssinia,    &c.,    Carta 

strutta  dul   Cap.    M. 

Maps),  788 
Abramof,  M.,  423 
Abu  Fandna,  665 

Shia',  Wadi,  680 

Acclimatisation,  on,  by  Dr.  A.  Oppler,  690 
Address,  Annual,  on  the  Prog^^ess  of  Geo- 
graphy, by  General  R.  Strachey,  331 

et  seq. 
Jubilee,  to    U.M.   the  Queen, 

R.G.S.'s.  438 
Admiralty  Manual  of  Scientifio  Enquiry 

(New  Publications),  651 

Surveys,  summary  of,  345 

Adria,  Pliysikalische  Untersuchungen  in 

der  (New  Publications),  709 
^En:ean,  An  Autumn  Cruise  in  the,  by  Mr. 

Fitz-Patrick  (New  Publications),  323 
Aeuckens,  F.,  Plan  der  Insel  Helgoland 

(New  Maps),  265 
Afghan  Boundary  Commission,  574 

Turkistan  plain,  106 

Afghane,  IMimitation,  N^gociations  entre 

la  Russie  et  la  Grande  Bretagne  1872- 

85  (New  Publications),  649 
Afghanistan,     Captain     Maitland's    and 

Captain  Talbot's  Journeys  in,  102  et  acq, 
Africa,  Die  religiosen  Verhiiltnisse  von,  by 

Dr.  A.  Oppel  (New  Publications),  715 
Durch  Sud-west,  by  Dr.  Hans  Sohinz 

(New  Publications),  714 
Quid  Novi  Ex,  by  G.  Rohlfs  (New 

Publications),  261 
Ontral,  discovery  of  new  lake  in,  439 


Africa,  Central,  EZxplorations  in,  by  Dr. 

Junker,  399  ^  seq, 

East,  Count  Pfeil's  Journeys  in,  47 

new  boundaries    of   English 

and  German  territories  iu,  188 
Recent  Changes  in  the  Map 

of,  490 

the  boundaries  of,  638 

Meridional  Portugneza,   Carta    da 

(New  Maps),  210 

•  Northern,  Dr.  T.  Fischer  s  observa- 


tions on  changes  of  the  coast  line  in, 

242 
South,  and  its  Mission   Fields,  by 

Rev.  J.  E.  Carlyle  (New  Publications),  61 
catalogue  of  printed  books 

and  papers  relating  to :  Part  II.  Climate 

and  Meteorology ;  and  altitudes  above 

eea-level  of  places  in,  by  J.  G.  Gamble 

(New  Publications),  320 
Original  Map  of,  by  Rev.  A. 

Merensky  (New  Maps),  328 

•South -Western,  Dr.    StapflTs    ex- 


plorations in  the  Coast  region,  511 

Dr.  Schinz's  ex- 


plorations iu,  243 
summary  of   progress   of  explora- 
tions in,  337  et  seq. 
Twenty-five  Years  in  a  Waggon  in 

the  Gold  Regions  of,  by  A.  A.  Anderson 

(New  Publications).  779 
West,  Sketch  of  the  Forestry  of,  by 

A.  Moloney  (New  Publications),  519 
Central,  Route  von  Paul  Stau- 

dinger  imd  Ernst  Hartert  von  Loko  am 

Benue  nach  Kano,  Sokoto,  und  Gandi 

(New  Maps),  211 
African  Traits,  South,  by  Rev.  J.  Mackin 

non  (New  Publications),  519 
Tropics,  Gn  a  Surf-bound  Coast; 

or  Cable-laying  in  the,  by  A.  P.  Crouch 

(New  Publications),  780 
Afrika,    Aequatorialen    Ost-,    Yorliiufige 

Skizze  von  Dr.  G.  A.   Fischer's  3ter 

Reise  im  (New  Maps),  64 
Geologische  Skizze  von,  von  Dr. 

G.  Gurich  (New  Maps),  656 
Karte  von,  mit  besondere  BerQck- 

sioht  der  deutschen  Kolonieen  (New 

Maps),  64 
—  Neue  Handkarte  von  (New  Maps), 

788 


793 


INDEX. 


Afrika,  Neue  Karte  yoti,  nebat  Mnd&gEfl- 

kar,  &c,  (New  Mups),  503 
Ost-,   Origitinlkui'te   von   Joachim 

Graf  Pfeirfl  Kcweii  in  (New  Mftpa),  64 
-  PolitiflcLe  Oberaioht  tod  (New 


Maps),  32S 

Bpeciftl-Karte  von  (New   Mem), 

396,  528,  656,  788 

Slid-,  Die  PortugieBiflclio  Expedi- 


tion quer  durch,  1884  und  1885  (New 

Mupa),  211 
AfrikaX  Ctntml-,   VoIksstiimmQi   by   L- 

Wolf  (New  Publications),  588 
Afriqne,  Im  Tits   en,   by  Jerome  Becker 

(New  Publications)^  713 
^ Liate  de  Poeittnn^  GengniphiquoB 

en,  by  H.  Duveyrier  (New  Publicatious), 

519 
AgHftsiz  Glocier,  The  Great»  270,  273 
Agwaray-Gnaza    river,  Captain   Fernan- 
dez s  explorations  of  t]ie,  581 
Aiid  river  and  hills,  595,  596,  604 
Akka,  Batnn,  or  Tikki  Tikki  dwarf  tribes, 

295,  407,  «40 
Akaii^bi  Spbonoid  moontains,  Japan,  91 
Akmoliiiiik  district,  enrvey*  in  the,  437 
Aksu,  city  of,  750 
Aksu  oi»,ii,  popnlation  nf,  230 
Ala-kul  frulf,  Liiko  Balkash,  426  note,  427 
Alaska,  Mr*  Sitoti-Kair*:*  journey  in^  52 
■      ■      Mnir  Glacier  of,  "air.  F.  Wright's 

obftervations  on  the,  US 
North,  progroM  of    Lieutenftnt 

Howard's  journey  acrofls,  308 
— Blioroa    and   Alps  of.  by  H.   W, 

Seton-Karr  (New  Publications),  460 
■  TJie  Alpine  Regions  of,  by  Lieu- 


tenant H.  W.  i^eton-Karr,  269  et  seq. 
Alel©  rivejT,  or  Wickham  river,  New  Gui- 
nea, 77 
Al)jcrift  and  Toms.  Handbook  for  Travel* 

lera  in,  by  Sir  I^ambert  Playfair  (New 

PubiioatioBis),  2Ul> 
Algerian  coast  line.  Dr.  Fischer's  obaerra- 

lioTis  OQ  changed  of  the,  242 
Algerie,  Carte  Topographique  de  V  (New 

Maps),  211,593 
' et  de  l»  TuniMe,  Carte  mnmle  de 

r,  defldnfo  par  A.  Cuenot  (New  Maps), 

724 

■  Qui  S'en  Va,  by  Dr.  Bernard  (N<iW 


Publications),  649 

Ali-Kobbo's  zeriba,  poaitinn  of,  SI  5 

Alpen,  Die,  by  Prof,  Dr.  F,  Umlttnft(New 
Publications),  712 

— -  Karbe  der,  von  L.  Weting  (New 
Slaps),  395 

• und  die  Rieserfemer-Gnippe,  Illufl- 

trift4>r  Ftihrer  doreh  dio  Zillerthaler,  by 
H.  Htrsa  (New  Publicatiyna),  711 

Alpengebiete  Oeaterreichs,  Distanz-  und 
Eeiflekftrte  der  oeatlicbenj  mit  Sebutz- 
hijtten-Beikurte  nnd  Hahcntabelle,  bo 
arbeitet  von  J.  Meiiror  (New  Maps),  526 

AlpH,  Divisions  of  the,  by  Dr.  August 
Bokm  (Now  Publiaitioiia),  709 

Altyn-tagb  Mountains,  214 


A  made  us.  Lake,  695 

A  mat    P.+    Delle     Rclazioni    Anticbe    e 

Modcrne   fra  1*  Italia  e  1*  India  C^ew 

Publications),  586 
Amazon  river,  length  of,  120,  253 
Am  ban  Achkan  Pass,  Tibet,  740 
Amdoa  Mongols,  234 
Ameriftt,  a  review  of  the  data  for  the  study 

of    the   PrebSitorio  Chronology   of,    by 

Daniel  G.  Brinton  (New  PublicationeX 

715 
— — Central  and  South,  summary  of 

exploration  B  Id,  345 

The  Ancient  Cities  of  the 


New  World  ;  being  tnivela  tind  explora- 
tions in  ^^liiiioo  and,  by  Desire  Chaniay 
(Nuw  Pul>lioationa).  393 

Narrative  ami  Critical  History  of, 

edited  by  Justin  Winaor  (New  Publlcsi^ 
tions),  207,  5S8 

North,  general   map  of,   by   W. 


Se  a,  K.  Johnston  <New  Mapa^,  593 
-— — — —  The  Western  Avemne,  or 

Toil    and    Travel    in    Further,   by   M. 

Roberts  (New  Publications),  461 
' South,  Notes  of  a  Naturalist  in, 

by  John  Ball  (New  PuWicalionsX  261 
The  Icelandic   Disooverers  of, 

by  Mario    A.   Brown  (New    Publioa- 

tiona),  716 
Amerika^  Nord*  OfBcicUe  Eisenbahnkarte 

der    Veriinigteu     fcJtaaten     von    (New 

Maps),  593 
Amiens,  Nouveau  Plan  de  la  Ville  d',  par 

R.  Vieiiot  (New  Maps).  526 
Amur  river,  length  of,  120,  253 
Ana  Guruwe's  village,  position  of,  470 
Auasarawa,  306 
Aneelie»  J.,  Les  Explorations  au  Senegal 

et  ilans  lea  Contre'es  Yoiidnea  dapuis 

riinfiquite  jusqu'a  noa  jours  (New  Pub* 

lieationa),  317 
Andeao  watershed  of  Southern  Ciiili,  580 
Andenzes,  depth  of  sea  o£f^  116 
Anderson,  A.  A*,  Twenty 'five  Years  in  a 

Wflggon   in   the  Gold  Regions,  Africa 

(New  Publications),  779 

Dr.,  361 

remarks  on  Tho  Lu  HiyeT  of 

Tibft,&c,  371 
Andrada,  Captain  Paiva  de,  joumeya  la 

Mantca,  621 
Andrade,   MF>unt,  Patagonia,  height  and 

position  of,  384 
Andre,  Richard,  Ethnographidoho  Eaitea 

(New  Publications),  59 
Andree,  Richard,  HandaUas,  Supplement 

zur  er^ten   A  ullage   von  (New   Maps), 

212  594 
Andrew,  Sir  W.  P„  Obituarv  of,  351 
Andrews,  C.  G,  Brazil,  its  Gondttiooft  and 

Prospects  (New  Publicatious),  460 
Angnmi  Naga  tribe,  39 
Angeli,  M,  G,,  new  route  to  Timbuktu, 

623 
Angoui-land  and  bnok,  A  Journey  from 

Blantyre  to,  by  J.  T.  Last,  177  ct  teq. 


INDEX. 


793 


Animarapu  natives,  Kew.Ouineft,  73 

Anniversary  Meeting  of  R,G.S.,  May  23rd, 
1887,  proceedings  of,  446  et  seq, 

Antananarivo  Annual  and  Madagascar 
Magazine,  No.  X.,  edited  by  Bev.  J. 
Sibree  and  Rev.  E.  Baron  (New  Pub- 
lications), 260 

The  Environs  of,  by  P^re 

IMsir^  Eoblet  (New  Maps),  139 

Antarctic  exploration,  proposed  Australian 
expedition  for,  309,  443,  576,  622,  757, 
768 

Antilles,  Les,  par  L.  de  Bosny  (New  Pub- 
lications), 134 

Antoninus  Martyr,  of  the  Holy  Places 
visited  by,  Palestine  Pilgrims'  Text 
Society,  translated  by  A.  Stewart  and 
annotated  by  Sir  C.  W.  Wilson  (New 
Publications),  323 

Aiaujo,  Lieut-Colonel  F.  de.  Report  on  the 
Brazilian  Frontier  Surveys,  extract  from, 
193 

Arctic  exploration,  summary  of,  349,  350 

■  Province,  An,  Alaska  and  the  Seal 

Islands,  by  H.  W.  EUiott  (New  Publica- 
tions). 133 

-  regions,  Mr.  McArthur's  and  Ool. 


Gilder's  explorations  in  the,  246 
•  Seas,  the  weather  in  the,  683 


Ardagh,  Golonel,  Feasibility  of  the  Rai'an 

project,  613 
Ardhe  river.  299 
Argentina,  Mapa  general  de  la  Bepublica 

(New  Maps),  593 
Rcpilblica,  Atlas  de  la  (New 

Maps).  397 
Atlas  de  la,  redac- 

tado  por  el  Dr.  Arturo  Seelstrang  (New 

Maps),  728 

•  Atlas  general  de  la, 


oonstruido  bajo  la  direccion  de  Carlos 
Beyer  (New  Miips),  594 
Argentine  Lake,  Patagonia,  384 

-  Republic  and  Brazil,  boundary 


surveys  of,  194 


meteorological  obser- 


vations in  the,   under  Prof.    Doering, 

512 
Arjentina,    Repiiblica,    Anuario    Biblio- 

grtLfico  de  la  (New  Publications),  320 
Arthur,  Port,  or  Lu-shuan-kou,  564 
Ascherson,  P.,  Die    Nordliche    Isthmus- 

Wiista  Aegyptens  (New  Publications), 

713 
Professor,  journey  in  the  Nile 

delta,  516 
observations  on  the  desert  of 

the  Egyptian    Isthmus    east    of  Suez 

Canal,  585 
Asia,  Central,  Correspondence  respecting 

the  Affairs  of  (New  Publications),  712 
D^imitation  Afghane,  N^ 

gociations  entre  la  Russie  et  la  Grande 

Bretagne  1872-85  (New  Publications), 

649 

-  MM.  Capus  and  Bonvalot*0 


journey  in,  245,  307,  509 


Asia,  Central,  Mr.  Carey's  expedition  in, 
342,  377 

No.  4,  1885.  Further  Cor- 
respondence concerning  (New  Publica- 
tions), 136 

•  Prejevalsky's  Journeys  and 


Discoveries  in,  by  E.  Delmar  Morgan, 
213  et  seq, 

Russian   expedition   into, 


under  Colonel  Bolyr,  508 

expeditions  in,  424, 


425 
1 

428 


•  Minor,  M.  EUs^efs  expedition  in, 


Northern,  progress  of  Bussiaa  ex- 
ploration in,  50,  54 

summary  of  exploration  in,  341 

Asien,  Uebersichtskarte  der  ethnogra- 
pliischen  Yerhaltnisse  von,  &o.,  von 
Vinzenz  v.  Haardt  (New  Maps),  266 

Wandbirte  von  (New  Maps),  788 

Askwith,  G.  R.,  remarks  on  explorations 
in  South-eastern  New  Guinea,  83 

Assam  to  Burma,  railway  from,  40,  41 

Upper,  to  the  Irawadi,  and  return 

over  tlie  Patkoi  Range,  Journey  of  the 
Expedition  under  Colonel  WoodUiorpe 
from,  by  M^jor  C.  R.  Biacgregor,  19 
et  seq. 

Astronomical  observatories  on  high  moun- 
tains, proposed,  by  the  Harvard  College 
Observatory,  249 

Athos,  or  the  Mountain  of  the  Monks,  by 
A.  Riley  (New  PuUications),  517 

Atkinson,  E.  S.,  The  Himalayan  District 
of  the  North-western  Provinces  of  Inclia 
(New  Publications),  586 

Atlantic  Ocean,  North,  Pilot  Chart  of  the, 
Hydrographic  Office  (New  Maps),  66, 
140,  330,  466,  529,  728,  789 

Synchronous  Weather 

Charts  of  the  (New  Maps),  330,  398 

Atlases,  New.  G6,  140,  212,  268,  330,  397, 
466,  529,  594,  657,  728,  789 

At-lesken  hills,  Central  Asia,  426  note 

Attak  Oasis  and  the  Trans-Caspian  De- 
serts, M.  A.  Konschin's  observations  on 
the,  625 

Attika,  Earten  von  (New  Maps),  136 

Aubrey,  M.  A.,  Paris  Geographical  So- 
ciety's silver  medal  awarded  to,  255 

Auriob,  H.  von,  Historischer  Ueberblick 
iiber  die  Kolouisation  des  Schwarzmeer- 
Kiistengebiet  dej  Kuukasus  (New  Pub- 
lications), 777 

Australasia,  Transactions  and  Proceedings 
of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  of^ 
Victoria  Branch  (New  Publications),  718 

Australia,  Manual  of  Physical  Geography 
of,  by  H.  B.  de  la  Peer  Wall  (New 
Publications),  650 

Results  of  Meteorological  Ob- 
servations in,  by  H.  0.  Ruseell  (New 
Publications).  718 

South,  map  of  (New  Maps),  65 

The  Glacial  Period  in,  by  R. 

von  Lendenfeld  (New  Publications),  208 


794 


INDEX. 


Austmlja,  The  New  Atlas  of  (New  Map&), 

66 
Weslern,  geogriiphicDl  work  in, 

1870-87,  by  tlio  Han.  John  Foneat,  G93 
^  Itfi  Puiit  liifitoiy*  Jtc, 


1>y  Ernest  Fnvenc  (Now  Publics tioni), 
719 

Beport  by  the  Director 


of  Public  Works  on  the  Public  Works  of 
the  Colony,  fur  the  year  1885  (New 
Poblicatious),  322 

The    Physicj^l    Geo- 


graphy of  the  SoiUb-wc*t  of»  by  Sir  W 
C.  P.  Robinaon  (New  PubUrotioufl),  59 
Amtmliaii  expe*litiou  for  Atitjiit-tic  explo- 
it ion,  pmposecl,  30!) j  443,  S76,  e>22,  757* 

-^— —  to  New  Guinoaj  uoder 

Mr.  Catbbertflon,  50S 
AiTstralien,  Hiii^Oit,  Oro-hydrogropliisphe 

SkitEe  voE,  Dr.  Lendenfeld'a  routes  in 

(New  Blaps),  529 
Azemiirj  H.,   DictioBBiuje   Stieng   (New 

PubHciitioiiB),  5B7 


BaS  Si  MRKAKfJ,  G74 

BarOD,  G.  W,,  New  Complete  Atlas  of  the 

World  (New  SLips),  2tJ8 
Biithltflev,   M.   J.   B.,  and    C,    8.  Ward, 

Thorough   Guide  Seriee,  North  Wales 

(Niw  Publications),  45K 
Tliorrnigh  Guide  Series,    The 

Northern    HijErh lands,    Scotland    (New 

PublicalionH),  4i>8,  586 

Thorough  Guide  Series, Irektid 


(New  Publications),  648 
Btidift'  well.  675 
Bucdrktr,  K,,   Greflt  Britain,   Handlxwk 

for  Travellera  (New  Publiontiona),  7t>D 
~ — — *  Italy,  H;iiidbook  for  TmveULrs 

(New  Publiofliiona),  315 
'" — '  London  and  its  Environs  (New 

PuhliciitionB)»  648 

•  Southern  Germany  ond  Anstria 


(New  PnbliciitionB),  648 

-  The  Kbiutj  from  Rotterdftm  to 


Constance,     llaudlxjok    for     Truvellera 

(New  Publications),  458 
Ufleni?,  Viseonde  de  Sanches  de,  oti  Diogo 

Cao's  memorial  stone,  579 
Biiert,   Lieutenant,  ascent    of  the  River 

MungHJa,  Central  Africa,  306 
BaginKe,  Mount,  2Via,  315 
Bahama  Islands,  Mr.  Blake's  ob^nrationa 

on  the,  57iV 
Btthr-el-Arab  river,  204 
el  Ghazal  and  Gtbel»  8udda  on  the, 

400 

Jnmif  or  Yusuf,  608,  GH 

Yusuf,  The.  roughly  describing  its 

present  stale  and  uses,  by  Captain  H.  H. 

Brown,  614 
Baikal,  Lake,  M,  Tchcrskj'g  new  geological 

map  of,  5 1 


Bfiillie,  A.  F.,  A  ParagOByaii  Treasure: 

Ibe  search  and  discovery  (New  Poblic*- 

lions).  520 
Bair^l,  Sir  David.  661 
Bakangai  territory,  406 
B«iker,  A.,  The  Abjrigint)il  Indian  Bmcfis  | 

of  ttie  Slate  of  Vera  Cruz,  Mexioo,  56ft  * 

d  sfff. 
Fakkak  Kntal  pass,  103 
Biikulva  Country,  Silva  Porto's  Joomey  * 

from  Bibe  to  the,  753  ei  $eq, 

— *  tiibe,  <>42,  tHO,  647,  756 

Balance  sleet  of  B.G,8.  for  1880,  448 

Bftldeg^,  Lake,  depth  of,  686 

Balkan halbiUiiel,  Die,  by  A.  C,  Lm  (Now 

Publications),  618 
Balkan  Peninsula^The  Growth  of  Freedom 

in  the,  by  J.  G,  C.  Minchin(New  PttWi- 

catioug),  25S 
Btilkaiij*,  La  Peninsule  de*,  by  Emile  De 

I^aveleye.  and   translation  of,  by  Mf^ 

Thorpe  (New  Publicatkins),  315 
Bidkaflh,  Luke,  427 
-^ -^" MM,  IvrasnofTs  and  Ignft- 

tief's  explorations  in  the  neighbourhood 

of,  notes  on,  116 
Balkh  Ao  river,  107 
Ball,  Jnlin,  Notes  of  a  Naturalist  in  SoaUi 

America  (New  Pnblicj^tions),  261 
Balnha  tribe,  390,  645,  755 
Bwmbcri::*  K.,  t*chidwandkiirte  vom  Kooig- 

reich  Sachaen  (New  Maps),  692 
Biimian,  104,  105 
Bancrfjft,  IL IL,  Tbc  works  of.  The  HUtorf 

of  Culitbrniii,  Oregon,  and  San  FraneiBCO 

(New  Publicatiuns),  bS 
Ban  da  or  Bandja  tribe,  295 
Band-i-Amir  or  Band-i-Barbar  lakes,  103 
- — ^^^~.-  —  Lakes  and    Moort*8    Bende* 

meer,  Letter  from  Major  Ravertyon  the, 

252 
Band'i'Turkestan  range,  575 
Band  via  tribe,  408 
Bnrabdn,  I^fTopold,  A  iraTezs  la  TitnLSte. 

Etudes  Bur  les  (iasis,  &c.  (New  Publica- 

tionn).  587 
Barberton,  railway  to,  DeJagoa  Bay,  503 
Barbier,  J.  V,.  Esaii  d'nn  Lexique  geb- 

grapliiquo  (New  Publications),  264 
Barthc1i*iny-St.    llilaire,    J.,   L'Inde  An- 

plaifip,  Bon  etat  actuel — son  avenir  (New 

Publications),  5«7 
BartholoDjew,  J.,  Atlas  of  the  Britbh  Em- 
pire throughout  the  World  (New  Maps), 

212 
Gazetteer    of   the    British 

Isle?,     i^tatiiiiival    and    Topographical 

(New  Publieations),  205 

PfK^ket  Atlases  of  En^hmd 


and  WaleH  smd  Soothind  (New  Maps), 
466 

Pocket    Atlas    of    Ireland 


(New  Maps),  (158 

The  British  Colonial  Pooket 


Atlpis  (New  Mapa),  140 
Bashilange  tribe,  330 
Baasongo  Miuo  tribei  042 


INDEX. 


795 


Bastian,  A.,  Zur  Lehre  Ton  den  Geo- 
graphischen  Provinzen  (New  Pablica- 
tions),  322 

Batchelor,  J.,  An  Ainu  Grammar,  with 
the  Lan^niage,  Mythology,  &c.,  of  Japan, 
hj  B.  H.  Chamberlain  (New  Publica- 
tions), 316 

Batetela  tribe,  776 

Batua,  or  Akka,  dwarf  tribe,  295, 407, 646, 
776 

Baudin,  M.,  journey  in  Guinea,  190 

Baumann,  Herr  O.,  observations  on  the 
physical  features  of  Fernando  Po,  623 

Baviera,  M.,  explorations  in  the  Western 
Sahara,  203 

Bayern,  Positions-Karte  vom  Konigreich 
(New  Maps),  265 

Topographischen  Atlas  dee  Konig- 
reich (New  Maps),  265 

Bayol,  Dr.,  Voyage  en  Sen^gambie  (New 
Publications),  779 

Beautemps-Beaupr^,  Mount,  New  Britain, 
2 

Becker,  Jerome,  La  Vie  en  Afrique,  aveo 
Preface  de  Cte.  Goblet  D*Alviella  (New 
Publications),  713 

Bedawin  tribe,  660 

Bedel  river,  Central  Asia,  427 

Beleta,  town,  Guinea,  760 

Belgique,  Atlas  des  villes  de  la,  an  XVP 
Sieclo  (New  Maps),  466 

De  rinfluence  des  Formations 

G^logif^ues  en,  by  Louis  Navez  (New 
Publications),  711 

-  La  Density  do  la  population  en, 


par  J.   Du    Fief  (New    Publications), 
129 

Beliafsky,  N.  N.,  431 

Bell,  Charles  N.,  The  Selkirk  Settlement 
and  the  Settlers  (New  Publications),  715 

Beloch,  Dr.  J.,  Die  Bevolkerung  der 
Griechisch  -  Rdmischen  Welt  (New 
Publications),  462 

Bengal,  Bay  of.  Charts  of  the  (New  Maps), 
789 

Bengal,  South,  A  Missionary's  Wife  among 
the  Wild  Tribes  of,  extracts  from  Mrs. 
Murray  Mitobeirs  journal  (New  Publica- 
tions), 61 

Benjamin.  S.  G.  W.,  Persia  and  the  Per- 
sians (New  Publications),  205 

Bentley,  Mr.,  681 

-  Rev.  W.  H.,  Dictionary  and 
Grammar  of  the  Kongo  Language,  &c. 
(New  Publications),  58 

Life  on  the  Congo  (New  Pub- 


lications), 649 

Berenice  port,  665 

Berg,  L.  W.  C.  van  den,  Le  Hadhramout 
et  les  Colonies  Arabes  dans  rArchipel 
Indien  (New  Publications),  518 

Ber<?haus,  Prof.  H.,  Physikalischer  Atlas 
(New  Maps),  67,  212,  268,  330, 529,  657, 
728 

Bergner,  B.,  Eum'inien  (New  Publica- 
tions), 517 

Bering  Glacier,  Great,  Alaska,  276 

Noe  XIL— Dbg.  1887.] 


Berlin,  Dorothea,  Erinnerongen  an  Gustav 
Nachtigal  (New  Publications),  651 

Geogmphical  Society,  Proceedings 

of,  December  4th,  1886,  56 

January  8th,  1887,  128 

February  5th,  1887,  256 

March  5th,  1887,  257 

.16th,  1887,  313 


•  AprU2nd,  1887,390 
-  June  4th,  1887,  515 
.  July  2nd.  1887,  584 
.  October  8th,  1887,  707 
.  November  5th,  1887,  775 
und    Potsdam,   Spezialkarte 


der 


Berlin 

Umgegend  von  (New  Maps),  655 

Bernanl,  Dr.,  L* Alg^rie  Qui  S'en  Va  (New 
Publications),  649 

Berry,  Sir  Graham,  and  Antarctic  Explora- 
tion, 622 

Berufiord,  ice  off  the,  684 

Besud  Road  between  Herat  and  Kabul, 
103 

Bevan,  T.  F.,  Discovery  of  two  new  rivers 
in  British  New  Guinea,  576,  595  et  seq., 
766 

Beyer,  Carlos,  Atlas  General  de  la  Re- 

Sublica  Argentina,  construido  bajo  la 
ircccion  de  (New  Maps),  594 

Bhaga  Tsaidam  lake,  743 

Bihe  (Bi'e),  Silva  Porto's  Journey  from,  to 
the  Bakuba  Country,  753  et  acq, 

Billinghurst,  G.  E.,  Estudio  sobre  la  Geo- 
grafia  de  Tarapacd,  trnbajo  esorito  para 
el  ateneo  de  Iquiquo  (New  Publica- 
tions), 520 

Biography,  National,  Dictionary  of,  by  L. 
Stephen  (New  Publications),  135 

Blackie,  C.,  Geographical  Etymology 
(New  Publications),  783 

Blackwood,  Captain,  595 

Blake,  H.  A.,  observations  on  the  Bahama 
Islands,  579 

Blanford,  Mr.,  on  the  origin  and  character 
of  the  monsoons,  and  the  influence  of 
forests  on  climate  in  India,  191 

Blangsteil,  M.  H.,  on  the  population  of 
Greenland,  312 

Blantyre,  Dr.  Milne*s  observations  on  the 
climate  of,  305 

Journey  of  Mr.  Last  ftom,  to  the 

Namuli  Hills,  42 

to  Angoni-land  and  back,  A  Jour- 


ney from,  by  J.  T.  Last,  177  et  seq. 
Blue  Mountain  Peak,  Jamaica,  Mr.  Hall 

on  the  height  of,  579 

river.  Tibet,  228 

Bodensce  lake,  depth  of,  686 

Boers  in  South  Africa,  History  of  the,  by 

G.  MoCall  Theal  (New  Publications), 

588 
Bohm,  Dr.  A.,  Eintheilnng  der  Ostalpen 

(New  Publications),  709 
Bokalik  valley,  Tibet,  741 
Bokharian  dominions.  Expedition  to  the, 

organised  by  the  Military  Topographical 

Department  of  Turkistaii,  432 
Bolshof,  A.  A.,  431 

3  X 


796 


IxVDEX, 


Boltoti,  H.  C,  Catalogne  of  Scientific  ancl 
Tecliniail   Periodieak  (Now    Pablicft- 
tioEK),  521 
Bolyr,  Colonel,  Russian  Exp«5<lition   into 

Centml  Aaia,  under,  508 
Bona,  Bay  of,  Dr*  Fiacher*B  obaprvationa 

on  cliangofl  of  tbo  coast-line  of,  242 
Bonga,  poBition  of,  18§ 
BoD?Blot    and   Cupus,  M^M,,  progress    of 

jonmey  in  Ctotral  AHia,  245,  307,  509 
Bordeaux  to  Jemsnlf'm,  Itinerary  from,  by 
*  The  Bordmux  Pilgrini/  tmnslftted  liy 
A.   Stewart   and   aniiotaled  by  Sir  O. 
\\\  WilsoD.    Pftlestinc   Pilgrimii*  Text 
Society  (Kovv  Ptiblicatiuna),  323 
Bot«?lhi/F,  d€%  Espjitia.    Oi?ogmfm  Hoj- 
folu^ica    y    Etiolu^ica  (New    Publi^a- 
tioiia),  58a 
BcjUC.  position  of,  189 
Bourbon,  L*Ile,  Simples  Benseij^neraonts 
BUT,  by  E.  Pajot(New  Publications),  520 
Bonnie,  G.,  Mure  hi  son  Grunt  awarded  to, 

311,454 
Bove,  Giaeomo,  Obitnary  of,  584 
Bowden  Junction,  5^6 
Bowcti»  Sir  George,  remarks  on  the  Is- 

landji  of  tbe  New  Britain  Group,  18 
Bradford,  Educational  CoUeotion  at,  250 
Branda,  Paul,   Lo  Haut -Mekong,  ou    le 

Looa  on  vert  (New  Publictitions),  316 
BraailicD,  Central-,  Durcli,  Von  Karl  tob 

den  Sttinen  (New  Publications),  208 
Braunschweig,  Sped nlk arte  vom   Heraog- 

tbum  (New  Maps),  3})5 
Brazil,  A  Journey  in  the  province  of  San 
Paulo,    in    Jaly-September    1885,    by 
K.  F,  Holme,  108  el  seq. 

~ its  Condition  and  Prospecla,  by  C  C. 

Andrews  (New  Publications),  460 

-  Original karte  der  &iiidlichen  Kolo- 


nicen  (New  Maps),  724 
Brazilian  Frontier  Surveyf,  extract   from 

Lieni.-Colonel  F.  de  Araujo's  report  on 

tke,  193 
Brazza,  M.  J.  do.  Explorations  on  iho 

Biver  Ogo  w«^  3:i9 
'-  M.  S,  de.  Conferences  et  Lettrea 

de,  flur    sea    Troia    Explorations    dana 

I'Oucat  AMcain^  texte  publieo  et  ooor- 

donne  par  Napoleon  Ney  (New  Pab- 

lications),  393 
Bruzzavillo,  position  of,  189 
Bremner,  John,aseent  of  Mount  Wrangel, 

278 
Brcttcs,  M,  de,  journey  in  Soutb  America, 

515 
Brighara,  W.  T.,  Guatemala,  the  land  of 

the  Quetzal  (New  PuWicntiona),  780 
Brindley,  \V.,  Ace^mnt  of  a  recent  visit  to 

tlio     ancient     Porphyry    Quurriea     of 

Egypt,  692 
Brinton,  Daniel  G.,  A  review  of  the  datu 

for  the  study  of  the  Prehiatorio  Chrono- 
logy of   Americii  (New   Publications), 

715 
— --    ■  Were    the    Tolteca    an    Hiutorio 

Natioiudity?  (New  Publicationa),  781 


Britain,  Thc^  Beginning  of  the  Geography 
of,  by  Prof.  Boyd  Dawkina,  C9€ 

British  Asancifitinn  Committee  on  Geogtu- 
phical  Education,  Sleeting  of  the,  120 

^— ' '■ —  Proceed  in i^'s  of  Geogiu* 

phicftl  Section  of  the,  Mancb ester,  1887, 
62S  H  seq,,  689  ct  stg.,  76 J>  tt  scq. 

Colonial  Pocket  Adas,  The,   by 


J.  Bartholomew  (New  Maps),  HO 
— Colonies,  Introduction  to  an  Hia* 

toricftl  Geography  of  tbe^by  O.  P.  Luoba 

(New  PublicatioiiH),  652 
►  Columbia,   Dr,  Dawson  and    Mr. 

Ogilvie'a  oxplorationa  in,  758 

Indexed  Map  of  (New 


Maps),  657 


-  Infonnation  for  Intending 
Settlers  (New  PubUcations),  716 
itfl  Agricultnral  and  Com- 
mercial  Capabilitiea,   by   Prof,    Henry 
Tanner  (Nt>w  Publication  a)*  717 

Empire,  The,  by  Sir  George  Camp- 


bell (New  Publications),  323 

The   Colon iiil   und   Indian 


Atlas  of  tbe  (New  Mapa),  268 
-- — - The  Queen's  JnbUce  Atlns 

of  the,  by  J.  Franoon  Wiiiiams  (New 

Maps),  67 
tbronghout     the    World, 

Atlas  of  tbe,  by  J.  Bartholomew  (New 

Miip>),  212 

Guiann :   ita  paat  hiatory,  preaient 


position,  and  future  prospects  in  rtd*- 

tiou  to    Venezuela,  by  H.  Watt  (New 

Publications!),  460 
-■ —  Honduras,  Notes  on  a  part  of  the 

Wefitem    Frontier   of^    by   W.  Miller, 

420 
l^leg,  Gavtetteer  of  tbe,  Statistical 

atid  Topocritiptiical,  by  J.  Burtholomew 

(New  PublicationeX  205 
— — ' Gwjgmpliy  of  thei,  from  ten 

different  stamlixjinta,  by  T.  M,  Darid* 

son  (New  Pubbcationfi),  710 
' '  Pictorinl  Geoj^raphy  of  the, 

by  Mary  E,   PalgraTe  (New   Publica- 
tions), 711 

Museum,  A  Subject  Index  of  tbe 


Modern  >V\irka  added  to  the  Library  of 
the,  in  the  yaira  1880-85,  by  G.  K 
Fortescne  (New  Publication  a),  134 

— - —  New  Guinea,  Diaoovery  of  two  new 
rivera  in*  bv  T.  F,  Bevan,  595  et  seq. 

Brown,  Cuptam  It.  II.,  The  Bahr  Yumif, 
roughly  describing  ita  present  state  and 
uses,  614 

^ Marie    A.,   Tho    Icelandic    Dis- 

coverera  of  America  (New  Publications), 
716 

Rev.  G.,  and  B.  Danka,  A  Dic- 
tionary of  the  Duke  of  York  Island 
Lemgimge  (New  PubUcatioup),  59 

Itev,   George,   reniarkd    on    the 

laljinda  of  the  New  Britain  Group,  16 

Briickner,  Dr.  E,,  Die  Vergletacherung 
dea  Salzachgebietea,  nelist  Beobacb- 
tungen  iiber  die  Eiazeit  in  der  Schwelz, 


1ND£X. 


'797 


Geogiaphische  Abhandlangen  (New 
Publications),  129 

Bruges,  Plan  de,  par  J.  Kips  (New  Maps), 
325 

Braniere,  M.  de  la,  555 

Brussels  Exhibition,  Geography  at  the, 
764 

Bruxelles,  Plan  de,  par  J.  Kips  (New 
Maps),  325 

Bryce,  J.,  remarks  on  the  scope  and 
methods  of  geography,  170 

J.  Annan,  remarks  on  the  expedition 

from  Upper  Assam  to  the  Irawadi,  Ac, 
40 

Buohner,  Max,  Kamerun,  Skizzen  und 
Betrachtungen  (New  Publications),  714 

Buelna,  £.,  Pereggrinacion  de  los  Aztecas, 
Ac.  (New  Publications),  781 

Buenos-Ayres,  Annuaire  Statistique  de  la 
Province  de,  public  sous  la  direction  du 
Dr.  E.  R.  Coni  (New  PubHcations),  208 

Notes  of  a  Residence  in,  or 

the  Great  Silver  River,  by  Sir  H.  Rum- 
bold  (Now  PubHcations),  520 

Bukharof,  D.  N.,  431 

Bunge,  Dr.,  and  Baron  von  Toll,  Progress 
of  Expedition  to  the  New  Siberian  Is- 
lands, 51,  117,  577 

Bunna,  Wady,  488 

Burma,  Captain  Hobday's  surveys  of,  575 
576 

The  Ruby  Mines  of,  by  G.  Skelton 

Streeter,  701 

Upper  and  Lower,  Report  of  the 

Administration  of  (New  Publications), 
712 

Colonel   Woodthorpe  and 

Captain  Hobday's  surveys  in,  308 

Bums  river,  598 

Burnt  Mountain,  Alaska,  278 

Busi  river,  622 

Butler,  Colonel,  Sir  W.  F.,  The  Campaign 
of  the  Cataracts,  being  a  personal  narra- 
tive of  the  Great  Nile  Expedition  of 
1884-5  (New  Publications),  459 

Biittncr,  Dr.,  expedition  in  the  Congo 
regions,  338 


Cabikda,  Molembo,  e  Massabi,  Carta  dos 
Territories  de  (New  Maps),  211 

Cachapaul,  Valley  of  the.  Dr.  A.  Plage- 
mann*s  explorations  in  the,  248 

Cairo  a  Ke'ueh,  Berenice  et  Berber,  et 
retour  par  le  desert  de  Korosko,  Journal 
d*un  voyage  du,  par  Col.  R.  E.  Colston 
(New  Publications),  260 

Calcutta,  New  Survey  of,  117 

Camacuam  river.  South  Brazil,  Dr.  H.  v. 
Jhering's  voyage  up  the,  686 

Cambridge  Lo^  Examinations,  awards  of 
geographical  nrize  medals,  454 

and  ()xford,  Report  of  the  Com- 
mittee on  the  Study  of  Geography  at, 
698 


Cambridge  and  Oxford  Universities,  con- 
'    ference  on  the  establishment  of  a  reader- 
ship of  geography  at  the,  188 
R.G.S.'s 

proposals  for  establishment  of  lecturers 

on  geography  at  the,  333,  334 
Campbell,  Sir  G.,  The    British    Empire 

(New  Publications),  323 
Canada,  Geological  and   Natural  History 

Survey  of.  Annual  Report  of,  A.  R.  C. 

Selwyu,  Director  (New  Publications), 

208 
Mackinlay's  Map  of  the  Maritime 

Provinces  of    the    Dominion  of  (New 

Maps),  65 
Map  of  the  Dominion  of,  corrected 

to  January  1887  (New  Maps),  788 
Cants  mageUaniouSy  386 
Cantley,  N.,  Straits  Settlements,  Report  on 

the  Forest  Department  for  1886  (New 

Publications),  648 
Ca5  (Cam)  Diogo,    *'Padra3"  of,  at  the 

mouth  of  the  Congo,  visit  to,  by  R.  E. 

Dennett,  689 
discovery  of  the  Congo, 

and  memorial  stone  of^  439,  579 
CJape  Colony,  Correspondence  respecting 

the  Affairs  of  Pondoland  (New  Publica- 
tions), 136 

of  Good  Hope,  Blue-book  for  the 

Colony  of  the  (New  Publications),  206 

— Civil   Service  List, 

1887,  and  Civil  Service  Calendar,  1887, 
edited  by  E.  F.  Kilpin  (New  Publica- 
tions), 260 

Statistical  Register 

of  the  Colony  of  the,  for  1886  (New 
Publications),  519 

Capello,  H.,  and  R.  Ivens,  Dc  Angola  & 
Contra-costa  (New  Publications),  317 

Capus  and  Bonvalot,  MM.,  expedition  in 
Central  Ada,  245.  307,  457,  509 

Carey,  A.  D.,  A  Journey  round  Chinese 
Turkistau  and  along  the  Northern  Fron- 
tier of  Tibet,  731  et  seq. 


-progress  of  expedition  in  Turkistan 

and  Tibet.  175,  232,  342,  377 
CWlyle,  Rev.  J.   E.,  South  Africa  and 

its  Mission  Fields  (New  Publications), 

61 
Carribbees,  Camps  in  the,  by  F.  A.  Ober 

(New  Publications),  134 
Carter,  G.  T.,    on    the   climate   of   the 

Gambia  and  Sierra  Leone,  240 
Carteret,  Captain,  visit  to  the  New  Britain 

Islands,  16 
Carvalho,    Captain,    Information    on    the 

history  of  Lunda,  Central  Africa,  382 
Casati,  Captain,  305 
Castillo,  Lieut.  A.  del,  journey  in  Patar 

gonia,  512 
St.  Augustin  del,  Exploracion  al 

interior   de   la   Patagonia,   &o.  (New 

Publications),  717 
Caucasian  Languages,  West,  Original  Vo- 
cabularies of  five,  by  D.  R.  Psacock 

(New  PnbUoationsX  205 

3x2 


798 


INDEX. 


Cnucagus,  Centittl*  A  Skektf>ii  Diary  of 

Six  Wet'ka*  Tmvtl   in  tlm,  by    D.  W. 
Freslifield  (Now  rnblictUion»)»  777 
Mr.    FrfBhlultra    nnd    M,    de 

Dcchy's  visit  to  the,  (Ml,  7G7 
Cnutin  provlDCt-.  Cliili,  M3 
Csiyo,  British  Honduny;,  422 
CLrri,  Cailu,  Carta  d' Italia  (New  Maps^ 

463 
Ceylon,  Island  of,  Dr.  F.  Sunisin  od  tliD 

preographicfll  condi lions  of  tije»  :j91 
ChaflanjoD,  M.»  prngretis  of  exjicdilion  to 

tbo  w>iirc€s  *»f  the  t  Jrinooo,  t204,  255, 456 
Chiiix  Hill«,  Ali^rtka,  27;J 
thiiklik  village,  Tilxt,  739 
Chiila,  Cniter-liiko  of»  on  Mount  Kilimftn- 

jaro,  47 
C/udiethfcr^  H.M.S.,  Report  on  llio  fc^ientific 

result:)  of  the  voyage  of^  prepnretj  under 

tlie  fluperintendoijce  of  the  late  Sir  C. 

Wyvilh^   'J  hointon,  and    John   Murray 

(New  Publifiitiona),  324,  720 
QmlnierSf    Jamej^    Piontoring    iti    New 

Guinea  (New  Piiljl-cfttions).  ^^4 
llev.  d„  Explorfttions  in  South- 

easicru  New  Guinfa.  71  rt  aetj- 
1 renioika    on    Explo'Tn- 

tioiii^  in  South-pastern  New  CJuinea,  85 
Chambeilftin,  IS.  II.,  Tlie  Lao gtmiJ^e,  My- 
thology, lite.,  of  Jflpm,  with  KU  A  inn 

Grammar  by  J.  Butchfcior  (New  Pablica* 

tiona),  31 G 
Cbampitin,   Colonel   Sir  J.  TJ,   Buteman, 

Obituary  of,  1% 
Chauclmmajo  iu  Pern  to  the  Atlantic,  Q. 

P.  Jftuits*   exf>edition    from   the,   com- 

munimttdby  C.  R.  Markhnm.  5U5 
CI  I  an    Cheiich    erctk^  Britiah   lloudiinis, 

422 
Cban-ptti  8hau  or  Long  Wbito  Mountain fl, 

533,  541,  Bm 
Chamiiv,  M.  Desin?,  jourueyB  iu  Yucatan* 

128 
— -—The  Aneient  Cities  of  the  Now 

World;  Ixicg  travels  and  explorations 

in  Mexiert  and  (Vutral  America*  1857- 

82  (N(  w  Pul>licntion&),  3i*3 
Charts,  Now,  Admiialty,  m,  130.329,  405, 

725 

cauctlled,  €6.  140,  329,  4<}5,  720 

*- eorrectcHh  f">G,  HO,  329,  4*]i>,  727 

French  Hydrof^raphic,  329,  727 

-—    Norwe^BU,  329 

-^—^^  Untied   SUtta  Hvdrographic,    G<j, 

140,  330,  466,  52il,  594/728.  im 
Chavagnac»  M.  de,  De  Fez  a  Oudjda  (New 

PublicatioUB),  779 
Cheragh-TiBh  or  Lamp  Eock  of  Pamfr,  70 
Clicso,  Mount,  43 
Chewa  tribe,  115 
Chewing,  C,  Journey  to  thft  ftouroes  of  the 

Finke  river,  Anatrali«»  192 
Cbiktrai  king,  and  dl^triot  of,  185,  186 
Chile,    Anuario    de    la    Ofioina    Central 

Meteorologicu  do  (New  Public* tione), 

460 
■-  new  provincea  in,  443 


Chile,  Sinopsifi  EatadtBtien  y  Geng'rftfica 

de,  en  18S6  (Now  Publications),  4fiO 
Southern,   Breaks  ia   tbe   Aiide*n 

wateriihed  of,  ,i80 
Cbinu,  Imperial  Maritime  CiiBtom^  (New 

Publications),  (M9 
—  North- wi  liter n,  and  Eabtem  Tibet, 

Potanio's  Journey  in»  233 

population  of,  57 

Travels  and  Investigations  in  tim 

Middle    Kingdom,    bv   J.    H,    WilfiOU  , 

(New  Publii^ations),  779 
Chinanteco  trilM*,  Vera  Cruz,  50S,  570 
Chineso  Turkiatau,  A  Jouruty  round,  and 

along  the  Norihcrn  Frontier  of  Tibet* 

by  A.  D-  Carey,  731  t;t  stf. 
.,  — .^_ Captfiin  Gn>iiibcheF- 

Bki'ii  explorations  in,  508 
Cbinyanja  I>anguage,  as  spoken  at  Lake 

Nyasa,  Table  of  Concords  and  Farad iinn 

of  Verb  of  the,  by  Rev.  R.  LawD  (New 

Publieatioufl),  58 
Cbipandi  river,  Central  Africa,  177 
Cbipettt  tribe,  115 
Clurvin,  Dr..  ou  the  population  of  France, 

204 
rhiomChium  Pass,  223  not€ 
Ciiiikaisiin  volcano,  J.ijian,  93 
Chong  Kmu  Kul  Lake,  Tibel,  740 
Chofihiu  province,  Japan,  98 
Chubut  river,  Patagonia,  384 
Churchward,   W.    P.,    My   Consulate    in 

Samoa  (New  Publications),  651 
Cinchona  cultivation  in  the  Llaiid  of  Re- 
union, 51  r.  St  John  on*  rtlH 
Clark,  Latimer,  Transit  Tables   fur    18ST 

(New  Ptihlicationa),  59 
Clear  Water  Lake,  Labrador,  193 
Climates  of  the  Globe,  Qeneral  de  Tillo 

on  the,  7ti3 
Cloudy  MountainF,  New  Guinea,  81 
Cobhum,   C.   Delft va!,   An  atttrmpt    at  a 

Bibliography  of  Cyprua  (New  PiibUoa- 

catione),  57 
Colberg,  Kaite  dor  Umgegcnd  von  (Sew 

Mfipfi),  326 
Collons,  J.  H.,  Guide  to  Trinidad  (New 

Publications),  394  , 

Colombo,  Crhitoforo,  L*origine  d!»  by  O. 

Varaklo  (New  PublieationB),  721 
Colonial  and  Indian  Exbibiti>>n,  Rt-porteon 

the   Colonial  Section   of,  edited  by  H. 

Trueman    Wood    (New    Publications), 

323 
— Report  of 

the  Royal  Onmmission  for  the  (New  Pub- 
lications), 500 
^ — - — ~  Biwk  Circular  and  Bibliostraphi- 

eal  Record  (New  Publicatioufl),  721 
Cohjuhoun,  A.  R.,  remarks  on  tbe  Bnby 

]^linea  of  Burma,  701 
Col  son.  Captain,  6tj6 
Colston,  CoL,  itE.,  Journal  d'uu  Toyago 

du  Cairo  k  Keneh,  B^'re'nice  et  Berber, 

et   re  our    par  lo    divert    de    Korosko 

(Now  PublicatiousX  2€0 
Comber,  Rev.  T.  J.,  Obituary  of,  583 


INDEX. 


799 


Conder,  C.  R.,  Syrian  Stone-lore ;  or.  The 

Monumental  Hiatory  of  Palestine  (New 

Publications),  259 
'Congo,  Daron  von  Schwerin's  discovery  of 

Diogo  Gam's  memorial   stone   at    the 

mouth  of  the,  439 
Gtiptain    Rouvier's    astronomical 

observations  to  fix  positions  on  tlie,  189 
discovery  of  the,  and  Diogo  Cao 


(Cam)  memorial  stone,  439, 579 

District,  Seven  Years  among  the 

Fjort;  being  an  English  Trader's  Ex- 
periences in  the,  by  B.  E.  Dennett 
(New  Publications),  132 

Fran9ais,  Carte  du,  dress^e  par 

M.  Rouvier  (New  Maps),  724 

length  of,  120,  253 

Life  on  the.  by  Rev.  W.  H.  Bent- 


ley  (New  Publications),  649 

-  Mr.  Grenfeirs  explorations  of  the 


tributaries  of  the,  1^39 

Notice  sur  TEtat  Independent  du. 


by  M.  von  Eetvelde,  689 

-  region,  Lieuts.  Kund  and  Tappen- 


beck's  explorations  in  the,  338 

•  Lieut.  Wissmann*s  explor- 


ations in  the,  390,  640,  776 
summary  of  explorations  in 

the,  337 

Swedes  on  the,  381 

tributaries  of,  298  et  seq, 

visit  to  Diogo  Cao's  "  Padrao 


at 
Ihe  mouth  of  the,  by  R.  E.  Dennett,  689 

Conn,  W.,  Cowboys  and  Colonels ;  Narra- 
tive of  a  Journey  across  the  Prairie  and 
over  the  Black  Hills  of  Dakota  (New 
Publications),  461 

Connell,  R.,  St.  Kilda  and  the  St.  Kildians 
(New  Publications),  392 

ConoUy,  Captain  A.,  103 

Cook's  Inlet,  Alaska,  277 

Coolidge,  W.  A.  B.,  Duhamel,  K.,  and 
Perrin,  F.,  Guide  du  llaut-Dauphind 
(New  Publications),  710 

Copper  river,  Alaska,  276 

Cora,  Guide,  Carta  Speciale  della  Regione 
attomo  a  Massaua  (New  Maps),  396 

Corvo,  Jofto  De  Andnide,  Estudos  sobre 
as  Provincias  Ultramarinas  (New  Publi- 
cations), 720 

Coslin,  Bpecialkarte  des  Regierungs-Be- 
zirks  (New  Maps),  326 

Ootteau,  E.,  Les  Nouvelles-He'brides  (New 
Publications).  719 

Coudrcau,  H.,  Journey  in  Guiana,  77p 

Henri    A.,    La    France  Equi- 

noxiale  (New  Publications),  716 

Council  of  R.G.S.,  Annual  Report  of  the, 
446 

Crillon,  Mount,  Alaska,  height  of,  279 

Croatien  und  Slavonien,  Karte  von  (New 
Maps),  209 

Croucli,  A.  P.,  On  a  Surf -bound  Coast ;  or 
Cable-laying  in  the  African  Tropics 
(New  Publications),  780 

Croisades,  Les  Pays  des,  by  Jules  Hoche 
(New  Publications),  316 


Clenomyt  magellaniew,  380 

Cumberland,  8.,  The  Queens  Highw.iy 
from  Ocean  to  Ocean  (New  Publications), 
520 

Curz:)n,  Hon.  R.,  Visits  to  Monasteries  in 
the  Levant  (New  Publications),  26i 

Cust,  R.  N.,  Linguistic  and  Oriental 
Essays,  written  from  1847-87  (New 
Publications),  720 

remarks  on  explorations  in  South- 
eastern New  Guinea,  84 

Cuthbertson,  Mr.,  ascent  of  Mount  Obree, 
Owen  Stanley  Range,  758 

expedition  to  New  Guinea, 

508 

Cyprus,  An  attempt  at  a  Bibliography  of, 
by  C.  Delaval  Cobliam  (New  Publica- 
tions), 57 

Through,  by  Agnes  Smith  (New 

Publications),  392 

D. 

Daushub  to  Ain  Raian,  The  Desert  from, 

by  Captain  C.  Surtees,  613 
Dakota,  Cowboys  and  Colonels;  Narrative 

of  a  Joumev  across  the  Prairie  and  over 

the  Black  Hills  of,  by  W.  Conn  (New 

Publications),  461 
Daksong-chu  river,  371 
Dagleish,  Mr.,  752 
Dall,  Mr.,  on  the  height  and  eruption  of 

Mount  St.  Elias,  271 
W.  H.,  Letter  from,  on  the  position  of 

Mount    St.   Elias    and    the    Schwatka 

Expedition  to  Alaska,  444 
Dalmatia,  the  Quarnero,  and  Istria,  with 

Cettigne  in  Montenegro  and  the  Island 

of   Grade,  by   T.    G.    Jackson   (New 

Publications),  648 
Danga  Gol  river,  747 
Daniel,    Rev.    Canon,    remarks    on    the 

Scope  and  Methods  of  geography,  167 
Danvers.  F.  C,  Report  to  the  Secretary  of 

State  for  India  in  Council  on  the  Records 

of  the  India  Office  (New  Publications), 

462 
Dapha  Biim  Mountain  and  Valley,  25 
D'Aramon,  M.,  Le  Voyage  de  (Now  Pub- 
lications), 316 
Davidson,  T.  M..  Geography  of  the  British 

Isles,    from    ten    different    standpoints 

(New  Publications),  710 
Dawkins,  Prof.  Boyd,  The  Beginning  of 

the  Geography  of  Britain,  696 
remarks    on    the    Teaching  of 

Geography  at  the  Universities,  700 
Dawson,    Dr.,    explorations    in     British 

Columbia,  758 
Decazos,    M.,    journeys   in    the    Congo 

region,  457 
Dechy,  M.  de,  and  Mr.  Freshfleld's  visit  to 

the  Caucasus,  617,  707 
Deir  Atrush,  670 
Delagoa  Bay,  Journeys  in  the  District  of, 

Dec.  1886-Jan.  1887.  by  H.  E.  O'Neill, 

497  ct  seq. 


800 


INDEX. 


Dem  Beljjr,  positioTi  of,  315 

Deuiiiivrk,  (leneral^tabens   tnpograpIii«ke 

Kaart  ovtr  (Now  Map»X  723 
Dtiint'tt,   IL  E.»  ScTcu  Yean*  aiDong  tte 
Fjort;   boing  an  Kngli^li  Trader's  Ex- 
jHTience*  in   the  Cuwgo  District  (New 
FubUcfttiony),  132 

J* Visit  ^^  iiiogo  Coo's  "Padrao^' 

.at  tho  mouth  of  the  Congo,  689 
[l>etiiiijg,  G.,  Tho  Citit-»  and  Ceuittcriea  of 

Etniria  (New  Publications),  5J7 
[  Brni,  Mt.  Clinton,  reiuorks  on  tlie  Alpine 

Ri^one  of  Alcu^ka,  2S4 
'  Derby,  Aiutrallut  690 
Do&i]«Bure,  M.,  281 

D^itliitiiioaA,  K.,  Cm  to  do  1»  delimitation 
Frnnt'o  *  Portugnifio   en    Guioee    (New 

MftpH),  'ill 
Be«giHiini»,  A I  .k%  mi  the  Lu  riYer,  361, 362 
— (Ml    the    ortliogTapiiy  of   goo- 

grapliii'^^Ll  nun  I  us,  313 
Di'utschi-n  ReiiliPH,  Karte  dea  (New  Maps), 

63,  2U:n  326,  463,  501 
ill  luiropa,  Ucbersicbti-kiirtedcr 

YerbreituTij^  der,  von  K.  Kieptrt  (New 

Mnfi«},  786 
DciitM^k  -  FrutiziJaificbo    Grfiu/Jiinder    nilt 

fjrnauer  Einzelcbnnng  d<  r  franzo-isciien 

Befestigimga-Anlageu  (New  Maps),  4<i3 
DculBcklHnd  and  dio  Alpen,  Prolil  durcb 

(New  Maps),  395 
Dcutichlands^  Uc  IxTgicbthkarte  der  Kisen- 

bfthncn  (New  Blapw),  463 
DeutB^ili-Lotliriiigen,  GeoltDpiBeho    Uebor- 

fliobUkiirte  dea  weBtiielien  (New  Mape), 

326 
. . — , — ^^__ — .  Uel>ersieht8karte  der 

Eisenrr^feldur    dei*    weatlichen     (New 

Maps),  326 
Dickson,   W.   P*,    The  Provincea  of  the 

Roiimn  Empire  fromCffiBar  to  Diocletian, 

by  T.   Momiijseti,  trunaluted  by   (N<jw 

Piiblkatiomj),  263 
DicU%  position  of,  189 
Dienrr,  Dr,  C,  Libanon.    Grnndlinien  der 

PhyBiwcIjrn   Gpographie   und    Getdogio 

von   MittebSvrku  (New  Publieationa), 

251* 
Diercke,   C,    und    E,    Gaebler,   Neueste 

Karto  vom  Haiz  (New  MitpaJ,  5^1 
Billing  river,  27 
Dikhtaii,  Mount,  height  of,  767 
Dink  a  revolt.  Central  Africa,  lOD 
DipTolodim  AuiitraUs^  696 
Djaiipi,  Jkiunt,  767 
Djunm  river,  T^\i 
Doce,  Rio^  Valley  of  tbe,  by  W.  .T.  Bteains, 

702 
Dolbn,    W.,    Zeitijiem-Epbemeriden    auf 

daft  Jubr  1886  (New  Publicatiooaj,  &^ 
Bon^ltis  river,  New  Gnineu.  576 
BouIb,  M.,  jonrtiLy  iu  the  Westeni  Sahara, 

im 
Bragrau    Lnko    of   Pamir,  by  Sir  Henry 

Riii^liii^on,  6!) 
Brenlen,  Neucster  Plan  von  (New  Hajifl), 

326 


Dry  Ba J,  Alaakm,  279 

Brygtil&kl,  Df.  E.  von,  Die  GeoiddeHniuw  'i 

tioQcti  der  EtBzeit  (New  Publieatiosig)^ 

720 
Bti  Chaillu,  Paul,  renmrka  on  exploratiozia 

io  Central  Afiica,  419 
Bueru  or  Kakibbi  river,  Central  Afijea, 

440 
Bu  Fiefp  J.,  La  Beti«it45  de  la  Population  en 

Belgique  (New  Publication*),  129 
Dnbam^jl,  H.,   Ptjrrio,   F„  and   Cbolidge^ 

W.  A.  B.,  Guidtj   du   Huut-Daapliwe 

(NeM'  Publimttojm),  710 
Biike  of  York  X^land,  A  Dictionary  of  tbe 

Lan^age  of  tlic,  by  Hev.  G.  Brown  and 

B.  Bankii  (New  Publications),  59 
Bukhan,  Jebel,  692 
Bumbure  Rangi\  Tibet,  224 
Bnnda  fitation.  East  Africa,  494 
BuDD,  T.  W*,  remarks  on  the  Scope  •zid 

Methoda  of  geography,  166 
Dnvejiier,   H.,  Liete  de  Positions  G^o- 

graphiques  en  Afrique  (New  Publioa- 

tioiw),  519 
BziiDgaria«  detert  of,  215 


Earth,  population  of,  Prof.  £.  Levaonnr'a 

tablea  of,  763 
£aat,  Tbe  Sacred  Books  of  the,  edited  hy 

F.   Max   Miiller    (New    Pubiieationa), 

260 
Eckhardi,  H.,  Mattbmus  Mertau.     Sldzse 

tieines  Lebena,  &c,  (New  PublicatiotiaX 

720. 
Ecuador^  Travels  in  the  Wilda  of,  and  the 

ExploratioD  of  the  Putumayo  River,  by 

A.  Simson  (New  Publieationa),  321 
Edp:ley,  J.  C,  Tbe  Ori^do  aod  Features  of 

Mountain  Syutemis  (New  Publicaiiotia), 

690 
Educational  Collection,  Ii.G.S.\764 
Eetvelde,  M.  von,  Notiee  sur  TEtat  Ind^ 

pendant  dn  Congo,  689 
Egli,  Dr.  J.  J.,  Die  Suhwoiz  (New  Pub- 

lieatiouB),  205 
Egypt,  Accoimt  of  a  Recent  Vifiit  to  tbe 

Ancient  Porphyry  Qunrriea  of,  by  W, 

Briodley,  692 

extent  of  cultivable  land  in,  609 

Middle,    Tho    Ruian    Mceriiit   or 

Storage   Reservoir  of,   by  Cope  WMIe- 

houee,  608  et  seq. 

•  MUitary  Histflry  of  the  Campaign 


of  1882  in,  %  CoL  J,  F.  Manrico  (New 

PublicatiouB),  780 
— Notea  on  a  Sketch  Map   of  two 

Routes  in    the   Eastern   Besort  of,   by 

Ernest  A.  Flover,  ij^O  et  seq, 
Eigner,  A.  G.,  431 
Eiiiaeit,  Die   Geoiddeforuiationen  der,  by 

Br.   E.  von   DrygaLiki  (New  PubUoft- 

tioi>s),  720 
El  Arish,  position  of,  586 
Elbe,  Stiomkarte  der  ;New  Maps)»  209 


INDEX. 


801 


El  Gaita«  665 

Elias,  Mr.  Key,  expedition   in    Central 
Asia,  341 
■        on  the  Dragon  Lake  of  P^mlr,  70 

Elis^ief,  M.,  expedition  in  Asia  Minor, 
312,  428,  431 

Elliott,  H.  W.,  An  Arctic  Province :  Alaska 
and  the  Seal  Islands  (New  Publica- 
tions), 133 

Elysseef,  Dr.  A.  d',  journey  in  Asia  Minor, 
312,  428,  431 

Emel  valley,  surveys  in  the,  437 

Emin  Pasha,  biographical  sketch  of,  251 

■  —  expedition  for  the  relief  of,  47, 

114,  126,  202,  336,  339,  759,  765 

•  letter  from  Emir  Karm  Allah 


tc,  415 

recent  letters  from,  439 

Empress  Augusta  river.  Admiral  von 
Schleinitz  and  Dr.  Schrader's  journey 
up  the,  120 

England  and  Bussia  face  to  face  in  Asia, 
1^  Lieut  A.  C.  Yate  (New  Publica- 
tions), 206 

Wales,  Pocket  Atlas  of,  by 

J.  Bartholomew  (New  Maps),  466 

-  Popular  Map  of  (New 


The  Cteology  of,  by 


Maps),  786 

H.  B.  Woodward  (New  Publioations), 

316 
South-eastern,  the  geography  of, 

149-52 
English  and  German  territories  in  East 

Africa,  new  boundaries  of,  188 

Protectorate  in  East  A&ica,  ex- 
tent of,  493 

Equator  station,  position  of,  189 
Eiokert,  R.  von,  Dcr  Kaukasus  und  seine 

Volker  (New  Publications),  518 
Erde,  Die,  in  Earten  u.  Bildem  (New 

Maps),  397 
Erfurt,  Specialkarte  des  Begierangs-Be- 

zirks  (New  Maps),  326 
Erh-tao  Chiang  river,  548 
Ernst,    A.,    La  Expoeicion  Nacional  de 

Venezuela  en  1883  (New  Publications), 

526 
EakeQord,  ice  in  the,  684 
EspaSa.  Geograffa  Morfoldgica  y  Etioldgica, 

by  F.  de  Botella  (New  Publications),  586 
Esquimaux,  Les  Grands,  by  Emile  Petitot 

(New  Publications),  650 
Etruria,  The  Cities  and  Cemeteries  of,  by 

G.  Dennis  (New  Publications),  517 
Europa,  Central,  Karte  von  (New  Maps), 

63 
Einleitung  in  die  L'anderkunde 

von,   by  A.   Kirchhoff  (New  Publica- 
tions), 711 

Eisenbahn     und    Dampfschiff- 

ronten  Karte  von,  von  J.  Franz  (New 
Maps),  326 

Mittel-,  Topographische  Spezial- 


karte  von  (New  Maps),  463 

■  Stidost-,  Karte  von  (New  Maps), 


787 


Euroi^usofae  Orient,  Der  (New  Maps),  655 
Europe,  Carte  de  1',  Les  Monuments  de  la 

Gdbgraphie,  des  Biblioth^ues  de  Bel- 

gique  (New  Maps),  591 
Illustrated,  Orell  Fussli  &  Co. 

(New  Publications),  777 

the  climate  of,  as  regards  the 


duration  of  a  certain  mean  temperature 
in  different  areas,  Herr  A.  Supan  on,  441 

Evening  Meetings,  R.  G.  S.,  Report  of, 
December  13th,  1886.  53 

January  17tli,  1887,  126 

31st,  1887,  201 

February  14th,  1887,  202 

-  28th,  1887,  254 


-  March  14th,  1887,  254 
.  28th,  1887,  311 


■  AprU  25th,  1887,  311 
•  May  9tb,  1887,  388 
-  June  6th,  1887,  455 

27th,  1887,  513 

.  November  14th,  1887,  765 


Eves,  C.  W.,  Jamaica  at  the  Royal  Jubilee 
Exhibition,  Liverpool,  1887  (New  Pub- 
lications), 650 

Evorra  tribe,  603 

Eyre,  Lake,  695 

F. 

Fabbicius,  Captain,  Norwegian  coast  and 

deep-sea  surveys  in  1886,  ^0 
Fairweather,  Mount,  Alaska,  height  of, 

279 
Fallot,  E.,  Par  delk  la  M^terran^  (New 

Publications),  649 
Fastre  Island,  position  of,  600,  606 
Fatira,  Wadi,  679 
Fausek,  Y.   A.,   journey  in  the  Knmo- 

Manytoh  lowlands,  429 
Favenc,  Ernest,  Western    Australia;    its 

Past  History,  &c.  (New  Publications), 

719 
Feddersen,  M.,  on  the  former  vegetation 

of  Iceland,  192,255 
Fee  river,  Alaska,  273 
Feilden,  E.  W.,  My  African  Home;  or, 

Bush    Life   in  Natal  when    a  Young 

Colony  (New  Publications),  206 
Feistmantel,  Ottokar,  The  Fossil  Flora  of 

some    of   the    Coalfields    in   Western 

Bengal,    Geological    Survey   of    India 

(New  Publications),  259 
Felkin,  R.  W.,  Notes  on  the  Waganda 

Tribe  of  Central  Africa  (New  Publica- 
tions), 132 
Ftog-tien  or  Liau-tung  province,  531,  532 
Fernandez,  Captain,  explorations  of  the 

Aguaray-Guazu  river,  581 
Fernando  Po,  Herr  O.  Baumann's  observa- 
tions on  the  physical  features  ot,  623 
Pdo,   karte   der   Insel   (New 

Maps),  656 
Ferrel,    Prof.   W.,  Recent   Advances   in 

Meteorology  (New  Publications),  521 
F^igny,  I^ieut.  de,  Explorations  of  the 

Mekong  River,  774 


303 


INDEX. 


Find  lay,  ^Tr.,  obeerrationa  on  the  Gulf- 

Finke  river,  AuBtralioi  Mr*  C.  Cbewiag'a 

journey  h>  llie  »ourc««  of  Ibe,  192 
FiD&ch*  Hr.  O,,  tlbur  Nuturprodukte  der 

Wctfllichiu  SQdsee,  «lc.   (^Nuw  Piiblica- 

tious),  7^2 
Fischer^  Dr.,  expedition  in  Central  Africa, 

341 
'^-^— ^  ni»8'erTati(*n8  on   clmnge»  of  the 

coast  line  in  Northeni  Africa,  242 
tlifc  Itite,  expedition  for  the  relief 

of  Dr.  Junker,  45 
UlancU  7 


FitZ'Fatriek,  Mr,,  An  Anlnmn  Cruise  in 

the  ilCjceaii  (New  PubljcatioDs),  323 
Fitzroy  rivt^r,  Aostraliii,  095 
Fionda,  Explor&tionB  on  the  West  Cooat 

of,  and  in  the  Okeeohobte  Wildemcas, 

by  A.  Hfiilprin  (New  Publications),  589 
—    Wiliinroa  and   BuelineU'a    Now 

Map  of  (New  Mape),  724 
Floyer,  Ernefit  A.,  Notes  on  a  Sketcb  Mftp 

of  two  Koutea  in  the  Eastern  Deaeit  of 

E-cypt,  &59  et  seq. 
Fori ieii»  Anna,  Ineulinde :  Exjjerienc^^s  of  a 

Nntiiraliat'g  Wife  in  tb<t  Eastern  Archi* 

pL<la;^rt  (New  PublieatiotiB),  778 
H.  O,,  expedition  m  New  GniDca, 

508 
Forei^  MitisionB^  Fifty  yexirs  of,  by  Georg« 

Bmitb  (New  Publiciitions),  62 
— — —    Procee<liiifra      of     the 

Geneml  Conference  on,  held  at  Mihinmv 

Park,  1878  (New  PublieatimsX  61 
Forelp  Dr.   F,  A.,  Le  Lao  LeiuaD  (New 

PubliciitionsX  25S 
Forrest,  Hon-  John,  Geographical  work  in 

WcRkm  Austndia,  1&7U-1887,  GUa 
Eorfiyth,  8irT.  Douglfla,  Obituary  of,  123 
Forte&cue,  G,  K.,  A  Subject  Index  of  the 

Mmiern  Work«  uddcd  to  the  Library  of 

the  Britisb  Museum  in  the  years  IBSO^ 

85  (New  Publications),  134 
Fouxeau,  IL,  journey  from  Uorgla  to  El 

Erg,  2(13 
Fmnvrdu,  Club  Alpin,  Anuuaire  dii  (New 

Publications),  7PJ 
Francop  Album  do  Stfttibliiiue  Gxnphiiiuo 

de  lS85(NewMai)s),  67 
— — Carte  d©  (New  Maps),  463,  591, 

723 
'  Carte  dee  rivieres  Bavij^ables  et 

dee  eanaux  executes  (New  Maps),  526 
Carte  geologiquo  d<ftaill^  de  la 

(New  Mapa)^  591 
-^- Carte-itinemire  des  voiea  naviga- 

blea  de  Ja  (New  Map«),  463 

dans  l*Afric|ue  du  Nord,  l>y  Lonia 


VigTioo  (New  Publications),  64S> 

Denombrenient  de  la  |»opulrttion. 

Ministire  do  Flnterieur  (New  Publica- 
tions), ^586 

Efjuinoxiflle,  La,  by  H.  A.  Coa- 

dreau  (New  Publications),  716 
— -- — -  L^Expanfiion  Coloniulu  de  la,  by 
J.  L  Lancasan  (New  Publicationa)^  60 


France,  population  of,  Dr.  GMrvin  on  the, 
204 

Voiea    Navigables.    Mamiel  dea 


distaneev  eomprides  entre  lea  principaiix 
pointa  de  cliaque  voie  (New  Publica- 
ti^ms),  57 

France  vJlJe,  posit  ion  of,  189 

Fraucis,  F.,  Saddle  and  MociiflBin  (New 
Publications),  461 

Franklurt  a/0.,  8peclalkarte  dea  Regie- 
rungs- Bezirks  (New  JIapfi),  326 

-*^ ■  -on-Main  Geojrraphical  S<^ety, 

Prt)oeodiDg8  of»  Decern ber*8tb,  18S0,  56 

Frankreicb,  rebersicbtfl-Karte  von  Nord- 
ostliclien  (New  Maps),  137 

Frazer,  J.  G.,  Totemism  (New  Publica- 
tions), 783 

French  Census,  Residta  of  the  New,  53 
expeditions  in  the  interier  of 


gal,  progress  of  tbe,  509 
Hydrograpbic  Clmrts  (New  Mapa), 

329,  727 
Freshiield,  Douglaa  W.,  aiad  M.  de  Beehy, 

visit  to  the  Caucasus,  617,  767 

Obituary  of  A.  W.  Moore^  200 

—  remarks  on  the  Alpine  Regiozia 

of  Alaska,  280 
—    remarks    on    the    Scope  and 

Methods  of  geograpby,  172 
— " —  Skeleton  Diary  of  Six  Weeks* 

Travel  in  tlie  Central  Caucasus  (New 

Publtcationts),  777 
Fritschc,  M,  Porta  Ueographieal  Society's 

^old  medal  awarded  to,  255 
Frit3£8che,  G.  E.,  Nuovo  AtlaateGeografioo 

ad  uao  delle  Scuole{Now  Maps),  67 
Frozen  Soil  in  the  Polar  Regioos,  Second 

Report   of  a  Commit  ten   lor  inquiring 

into    the    Depth    of   Ptrmanently,   by 

General  Sir  J.  H.  Li^froy,  769  tt  s«q, 
Fujinoyama  Mountain,  87 
Fuiford,   H.    E.,  Journey   in    Manchuria 

(New  Publications),  587 


: 


Gabklektz,  Prof.  G.  von  tier,  The  Lan- 
guages of  ftlelanesia  (Now  PubUcations), 
59 

Gallegoa  river,  Patagonia,  513 

Gallieni,  Lieut.-Colunel,  456 

Galton,  Francis,  remarks  on  tlie  Scope  and 
Methods  of  geography,  165 

-- — —  rtimBrks  on  the  Alpine  Regions  of 
Alaska,  285 

remarks  on  Explorations  in  C^entml 


Africa,  417 
Gambia  and  Sierra  Leone,  Mr.  Carter  on 

the  climate  of  the,  240 
Gambino,  G.,  Delia  Popcjlaritii  o  Difiuaione 

degli  Studi  Geografici,  &c.  (New  Pub- 

licEitirna),  783 
Gamble,  J.  G.,  Catalogue  of  printed  hooka 

and   papers  relating  to   South  AtWca: 

Part  II.  Climate  rmtl  Meteorology  (New 

Publioationa),  320 


INDEX. 


803 


Gamble,  J.  G.,  Altitudes  above  Sea-level  of 
Places  in  South  Africa,  collected  by 
(New  Publications),  320 

Gand,  Plan  de,  par  J.  Kips  (New  Maps), 
326 

Gaultier,  J.,  Carte  murale  de  TAlgdrie  et 
de  la  Tnnisie,  dressde  par,  et  dessin^e 
par  A.  Cu^not  (New  Maps),  724 

Geikie,  Dr.  A.,  on  geology  in  relation  to 
geography,  146, 147 

The  Scenery  of  Scotland,  viewed 

in  connection  with  its  Physical  Gkology 
(New  Publications),  710 

Gele,  Captain  van.  Explorations  of  the 
Mobangi  river,  440 

Geneva,  Lake  of,  depth  of,  686 

Geodetic  Association,  International  (New 
Publications),  524 

Geographical  Education  in  Elementary' 
Schools,  B.G.S.'s  prizes  for  the  improve- 
ment of,  757 

in  Germany,  pro- 
gress of,  250 

—  India,  Mr.  M. 

Meeting   of  the 
British  Association  Committee  on,  120 
-Il.G.S/sCollection, 


J.  Odgers  on,  687 


764 


•  Etymology,  by  C.  Blackie 


(New  Publications),  783 

Publications,  New — 


Africa,  58,  132,  206,  260,  317,  393,  459, 

519,  587,  649,  7i3»  779 

Amm-ica,  58,  1S3,  207,261,320,393,  460, 

520,  588,  (15tS  715,780 
Arotic,  2G3,  322,  52i 

Asia.  57,  130,  205,  259,  316,  392,  459, 

518,  586,  G48,  712,  778 
AufltnUn^is,  59,  208,  322,  394,  522,  589, 

650,  718 
Europe,  57.  129,  205,  258,  315,  392,  458, 

517,  586,  648,  709,  777 
General,  59, 134,  263,  322,  394, 462, 523, 

590,  651,  719,  783 
Oceania,  59,  322,  523,  651.  719,  782 

Geographie,  Zeitschrift  fiir  Wissenschaft- 
liche,  herausgegeben  von  J.  I.  Kettler 
(New  Publications),  263 

Geograpbische  Abhandlungen,  Hefle  1 
und  2,  herausgegeben  von  Prof.  Dr.  A. 
Penck  (New  Publications),  129 

Geographischen  Provinzen,  Zur  Lehre  von 
den,  by  A.  Bastian  (New  Publications), 
822 

Gkographischer  Namen,  Etymologisches 
Worterbuch,  by  A.  Thomas  (New  Publi- 
cations), 324 

Geo<rraphisches  Jahrbuch  (New  Publica- 
tions), 394 

Geography  at  the  Brussels  Exhibition,  764 

. Universities,  The  Teach- 
ing of.  by  H.  J.  Mackinder,  698 

• 0)mmercial.  by  K.  B.  Murray 

(New  Publications),  652 

Statistical    Atlas 


of,  by  E.  J.  Hastings  (Now  Maps),  790 


Geography,  Establishment  of  a  Readership 
of,  at  Oxford  University,  239,  2M 

of  Britain,  The  Beginning  of 

the,  by  Prof.  Boyd  Dawkios,  696 

-  Readership  of,  at  Oxford  and 


Cambridge  Universities,  Conferences  on 
the  Establishment  of  a,  188 

-  The  Realistic  Teaching  of,  by 


W.  Jolly  (New  Publications),  651 

-  R.G.S.'s  proposals  for  the  esta- 


blishment of  lecturers  on,  at  the  Oxford 
and  Cambridge  Universities,  338,  334 

■  The  Scope  and  Methods  of;  by 


H.  J.  Mackinder,  141  et  seq. 

the  Teaching  of,  629  et  seq, 

-  the  Teaching  of,  Letter  from 


W.  Rheam  on,  121 

•  the  Teaching  of,  R.G.S.  s  pro- 


posals for  the.  at  the  Oxford  and  Cam- 
bridge Universities,  and  the  Education 
Department,  333,  334 

-  Uncrowded  Atlas  of  Political, 


by  T.  R.  Johnston  (New  Maps),  658 
George,  Captain  C,  Obituary  of,  126 
German  and  English   territories  in  East 

Africa,  new  boundaries  of^  188 

Census,  Results  of  the  New,  53 

East  African  Association,  Expedi- 


tions of,  47 

"  Geographentag " 

310 


at  Karlsruhe, 


Missionary    Society    for    East 
Africa,  496 

>  Protectorates  in  East  Africa,  ex- 


tent of,  493 

-  treaties  in  East  Africa,  491 


Germany,  progress  of  geographical  educa- 
tion in,  250 

Gerrit  Denys  Island,  7 

Gestola,  Mount,  767 

Ghainsh^,  Tibet.  747 

Gibson,  J.,  Great  WaterfaIls,Cataracts,  and 
Geysers,  described  and  illustrated  (Now 
Publications),  523 

Giesecke,  H.,  murder  of,  417 

Gilder,  ()olonel,  explorations  in  the  Arctic 
regions,  246 

Giles,  Ernest,  journey  across  Western 
Australia,  694,  695 

Pearoe,  The  true  Source  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi (New  Publications),  262,  716 

Glacier  Bay,  Alaska,  118 

Gladman,  George,  on  depth  of  frozen  soil 
at  York  Factory,  772 

Glagolcf.  M.,  expedition  in  Bokhara,  434 

Glaser,  Eduard,  Siidarabische  Streitfragen 
vom  Forschungsreisenden  (New  Publi- 
cations), 712 

Glazier,  Captain,  and  his  Lake,  by  H.  D. 
narrower  (New  Publications),  58 

Down  the  Great  River;  embracing 

an  account  of  the  discovery  of  the  true 
source  of  the  Mississippi,  &c.  (New 
Publications),  717 

•  voyage  of  exploration  to  the  source 


of  the  Mississippi  river,  map  illustrative 
of(New  Maps),  211 


INDEX. 


Globe,  Tlio  Climat«8  of  the,  Genend  de 

Tillo  on,  763 
Gobi,  Desert    of;  M.    Potanin's   joimiey 

aoL-ufis  tbe,  442 
Gold  amid,   8ir  F.,  renwirks  on  a  Journey 

through  Yemen,  489 
Ohituury  €i(  Colonel   Sir  J.  V. 

Batemftii  Cbampftin,  196 
• — ^^  on  the  relations  of  geography 

am!  history,  142 
— —    lemarkij     oa     the    Scope  and 

Mt:'lhoila  of  ipjeogruphy^  162 
Goliki  tHlie»  Tibef,  *22ti 
tiordun,  K.,  on  the  Irawadi  river,  39,  35&, 

Gore,  Captain,  Afghan  stifveya,  574 
Gouin,  M.,  work  on  the  Upper  Red  River 

and  affluunt^,  :U2 
GianviLle,  Dr.  Doyle,  remarks  on  Explora- 

tion»  in  Soiith-t"ai»k'rn  New  Guinea,  85 
Gravenrenth.  Lieut,  liaron  too,  journey 

up  the  rangani,  56 
Gravier,  Gabriel,  Paul  Soleillet  *d  Voyaged 

Stgou  1878-79,  rodige  d*apiva  lea  iiutea 

ct  joumaui    par  (New  PHhlicationa), 

714 
Giay»  A.,Tho  Voyage  of  F.  Fyrard  of  La  vnl, 

ttanalateti  by  (New  PublicatioiiB)»  5^0 
Great  Britain :  Handbook  for  Travellers, 

by  K,  Bat'dektT  (New  PublicationaX  703 
Gree<5e,  An  Etister  Vacation  in,  by  J.  E. 

Sandys  (New  Publications),  315 
—  Rarublea  and  Studies  in,  by  J*  P, 

MahaflTy  (New  Publication b),  25g 
Green,  J,  R,,  an*l  Alice  Blopfonl,  A  Short 

Geography  of  the  British  Islanda  (Kew 

PublicatiouaX  136 
Greenland    ObserrationB     Internationaloa 

Pokireis,    Exiiedition     Danoiae     (New 

Publiciilkins),  322 
' ^—  fKfpulatioo  of,  M.  IL  Biangated 

mi  tlie,  312 
Grenfell,  Re?  G.,  681 
— explomtions  of  the  thbutariea  of 

the  Congo,  23f>,  298,  338 

^  Patron^s  Medal  awarded  by,  311, 


452 


—  remarks  on   receiving  Patron's 

Medal,  454 
GrieeliiBch'Romischen  Welt,   Die   Bevol- 

kerung^  ^ler,   by   Dr.  J.   Belooli   (New 

PuliljcationA),  462 
Oriflitb,  Dr,,  aacent  of  the  Lohit  river,  355 
GronjbcbefBki,    Captain,   explorationa    in 

Chinese  Turk  is  tan »  508 
Groum-GrjimaliH  M.,  progre^  of  expedi- 
tion in  the  Eastern  Pamir,  54,  430.  481 
Guatemala,  Dire^ttjrio  dtj   hv  Ciudad  de^ 

cotnpilado  por  la  Direccion  (jeneral  do 

Esttidifitica  (New  PublicatiouB),  460 
the  land  of  the  Quetzal,  by 

W.    T.    Briirham  (New    Publications! 

780 
Guaj'fw^uil  (Ecuador),  Piano  de,  per  Dr. 

T.  Wolf  (Ni^w  Maps),  464 
Guerrieo,  Mount,   Patagonia,   height  ajid 

pofiitioQ  lif,  3B4 


Gniana,    Lateat    CerrespondeDoe  on   the 

Question  of  Limitaof  (Ne  w  Publlcatiotu). 

717 
— —  progreta  of  Dr.  Tea  Kate*8  jotuney 

in,  55 
Guide,  Alocmtt  Patagonia,  height  and  posl- 

tioD  of,  384 
Quilleinard,  F.  H.  H.,  The  Cruiae  of  the 

Maralteta    to     Kanitrcbatka    and    New 

Guinea,  &q.  (New  Publications),  2G4 
Guinea,  M.  Baa  dtn'e  journey  in,  190 
Upper  J  Dr.  Kra  use's  explorations 

in,  760 
Guini^  Carte  de  U  delimitation  Franoo* 

Portugaiao  on,  par  E.  Desbniasona  (New 

Slaps),  211 
Qulf-Htteam,  M,  J,  Thoulet's  ohaervationa 

on  the,  762 
Sur  le,  by  Prince  Albert  de 

Monaco  (New  Publications),  322 
Gumpret^ht,  Otto,  Der  Mittlere  iBOuto  nnd 

ffein    Vcrbaltnifijj  mm  Natisoue  (New 

Pubiieations),  711 
Gnppy,  H    B.,The  Botomoa  laknds,  and 

their  nntivt-s  (New  Publications),  782 
Guricb,  Dr.  G.,  Geologidche  8kii«e  von 

Afrika  (New  Hiipa),  €56 
Gnyuua,  Kaart  van  de   Kuat  van  (New 

Maps),  727 
Gnyot,  A.,    Tables,   Meteorological    and 

Physical  (New  PublicationsX  521 
Gkcier,  The  Great,  Alaaka,  270 


Haari>t,    Vnmons   v.,   XTebeniohtakarte 

der  cthnographi&ohen  Vcrhiltniaae  vxwi 
A«ien,  Jkc.  (New  Maps),  266 

Haaat,  Sir  Juliua  Von,  Obituary  of,  687 

Hadhramout  et  lea  Colonies  Arabee  dans 
FArchipel  Indien,  Le,  by  L.  W.  (3.  Van 
den  Berg  (New  Publications),  518 

Hadramaut,  489 

Hagen,  Dr.  B.,  Bapport  iiber  eine  im 
Bezember  1883  unttrnorainene  wifisen- 
scbaftliche  Reise  an  den  LobarSee 
(Central  Sumatra)  (New  Publicationi), 
71H 

Hager,  Carl,  Die  Marshal Mnaftln»  in  Eid- 
uud  Viilkerkunile,  Hiindel  und  Blesseti 
(New  Publieationa),  322 

'-    Kfti&er  Wilttehns'Lanil    und    der 

Bj8taarck*Archipel  (New  Publications), 
208 

Haifa,  or  Life  in  Mt:>dem  Palestine,  by 
L.  Oliphaut  (New  Publications),  8ia 

Haig,  Colonel  C  T,,  Survey  of  India, 
8pirit-leveled  Heights,  Madras  and 
Bombay  Presideuoiea  and  Ni^am'^s  Do- 
minions (New  PublieatJons),  451* 

Major-General    F,   T.,    A   Journey 

through  Yemen,  -179  et  scq, 

Report  of  a  Joumi^y  to  the  Red  Sea 

Porta,  Jk^mali-Land,  and  8outhem  and 
Eastern  Arabia  (New  PubrLcationfl)^ 
0-49 


INDEX. 


805 


Hainan,  Island  of,  B.  G.  Henry's  exploia- 

tions  in  the,  378 
Hall,  Maxwell,  on    the  height  of   Bine 

Mountain  Peak,  Jamaica,  579 
Hallett,  Holt  S.,  remarks  on  the  Expedi- 
tion from  Upper  Assam  to  the  Lrawadi, 

&a,41 
Haloxylon  ammodendron,  216 
Hami  oasis,  and  people  of,  217  note 
Hami  lown,  748 
Hamns-Halbinsel,  Zur  Kunde  der,  by  W. 

Tomaschek  (New  Publications),  712 
Hanusz,  E.,  La  Lutte  de  I'Existence  des 

Plantes  dans   les  Pnsztas    Hongroises 

(New  Publications),  711 
Hardman,  E.  J.,  696 
Hari-rud,  source  of  the,  575 
narrower,  H.  D.,  Captain  Glazier  and  his 

Lake  (New  Publications),  58 
Hartmann,  G.  H.,  and  G.  Hunter,  ascent 

of  the  Owen  Stanley  Bange,  621,  767 
Harvard  GoUege  Observatory's  proposed 

astronomical  obseryatorieson  high  moun- 
tains, 249 
Harz,  Neueste  Earte  vom,  von  G.  Diercke 

und  E.  Gaebler  (New  Maps),  591 
Hassenstein,  B.,  Atlas  yon  Japan  (New 

Maps),  530 
Hastings,  E.  J.,  Statistical  Atlas  of  Gom- 

mercial  Geography  (New  Maps),  790 
Hauser,  C!aptain  P.,  Die  Aequator-Durch- 

gauge  des  Mondes  (New  Publications), 

134 
Haut-Daupbin^  Guide  du,  by  W.  A.  B. 

O)olidge,  K.  Duhamel,  and  F.  Perrin 

(New  Publications),  710 
Havre  et  ses   Environs,  par  L.  Leblanc 

(New  Maps),  655 
Hawaiian  Islands,  Map  of  the  (New  Maps), 

725 
Hawash,  The  Upper,  Dr.  Traversi's  expe- 
dition to  the,  627 
Hawes,  Mr.,  on  new  Gentral  African  lake, 

439 
Hayes  river,  depth  of  frozen  soil  in  the  bed 

of,  769,  770 
Haynes,  Gaptain  G.  E.,  Matabeleland  and 

the  country  between  the  Zambesi  and 

the  Limpopo,  692 
Hazarah  tribe,  103 
Heawood,  Edward,  letter    from,  on    the 

lengths  of  the  greatest  rivers  in  the 

world,  252 
Hedges,  W.,  Diary  of,  transcribed  by  B. 

Bfurlow,  and  illustrated  by  extracts  by 

Golonel  Yule  (New  Publications),  587 
Helgoland,    Plan     der    Insel,    von    F. 

Aeuckens  (New  Maps),  265 
Heilprin,  A.,  Explorations   on  the  West 

Goast  of  Florida  and  in  the  Okeechobee 

Wilderness  (New  Publications),  589 
Hekla,  Mount,  height  and  temperature  of, 

52 
Henderson,  Gaptain,  W.  H.,  remarks  on 

Explorations    in    South-eastern    New 

Guinea,  81,  86 
Henning,  Gaptain,  on  Ghina  and  Korea,  56 


Henry,  B.  G.,  explorations  in  the  Island  of 

Hainan,  378 
Hess,  H.,  Hlnstrirter  Fiihrer  durch  die 

ZiUerthaler  Alpen  und  die  Bieaerfemer- 

Gruppe  (New  Publications),  711 
Hetherwick,  Bev.  A.,  on  the  Mang'anja 

and  Yao  tribes,  114 
Heize],  G.,  Plan  von  Leipzig  (New  Maps), 

463 
Himalayan  District  of  the  North-western 

Provinces  of  India,  by  E.  S.  Atldnson 

(New  Publications^  586 
Historical  Geography  of  the  British  Golo- 

nies,  Introduction  to  an,  by  G.  P.  Lucas 

(New  Publications),  652 
Hoango-ho  or  Yellow  river,  227,  228 
Hobarttown    oder  Sommerfrische  in  den 

Antipoden,  by  Prince  Ludwig  Salvator 

of  Austria  (New  Publications),  522 
Hobday,  Captain,  survey  of  Upper  Burma, 

308,  575,  576 
Hoche,  Julcj,  Les  Pays  des  Croisades  (New 

Publications),  316 
Hodeida,  480 
Hofrat  copper-mine,  294 
Holdich,  Colonel,  Afghan  surveys,  574 
Founder's  Medal  awarded  to,  311, 

452 
Obituary   of    Sir    Gharlee   Bl 

MacGregor,  194 

remarks  on  receiving  Founder's 


Medal,  453 
Holme,  B.  F.,  a  journey  in  the  province  ot 

San  Paulo,  Brazil,  in  July-September, 

1885,  108  et  seq. 
Hood,  Mount,  Oregon,  height  of,  271 
Here,  Annie  B.,  To  Lake  Tanganyika  in  a 

Bath  Chair  (New  Publications),  58 
Homliman,  Herr  J.,  on  the  depth  of  Swiss 

lakes,  686 
Horowitz,  y.  J.,  Marokko.     Das  Wesent- 

liohste  und  Interessanteste  iiber   Land 

und  Leute  (New  Publications),  260 
Hort,  Mrs.  A.,  Yi^  Nicaragua,  a  sketch  of 

travel  (New  Publications),  320 
Houghton,  Major,  a  note  on,  the  African 

explorer,  by  Major  Sir  H.  Perrott,  693 
Howard,  Lieut.,  progress  of  journey  across 

North  Alaska,  308 
Howorth,  H.  H.,  The  Mammoth  and  the 

Flood  (New  Publications),  784 
remarks  on  Prejevalsky's  jour- 
neys and  discoveries  in  Central  Asia, 

230 
remarks  on  a  journey  in  Man- 
churia, 567 
Huasteco  tribe,  Vera  Cruz,  568,  570 
Huber,  M.,  on  the  Simplon  tunnel^  203 
Hue,  Abbe,  on  the  Lu  river,  368 
Hudson's  Bay  Expedition  of  1886,  Beport 

of  the,  under  the  command  of  Lieut. 

A.  B.  Gordon  (New  Publications),  717 
Hujjela,  481 

Hulan  town,  Manchuria,  236,  552 
Hull,  Edward,  Mount   Seir,  Sinai,    and 

Western  Palestine  (New  Publications), 

259 


806 


lIun-OliiftDK  rivcr^  53^ 

Iluiirlmn  tnwn»  557»  558 

Hijnter^  Ca|)tjiin»  16 

— G.,  ami  V.  IL  Hartranim*  ftBoent 

of  Uwcii  Stttnley  Riuig:©.  <j21,  7€7 
Hiioii  iiTuir,  New  Guinea.  OOf* 
Hurjjroiiji?,  Dr.  S,.  extracts  from  the  pper 

on  kk  &ix  months'  rt'flideQee  la  Meccu, 

257 
Hartig,  A.,  Vhn   von  Pmg  nad   Urage- 

bun;^  (New  Maps),  5H2 
llvdrrahod,  Kaslimir,  Sikkiro,  and  Nciml, 

Joarrjttlfl  k<^pi  in,  by  Sir  Hiciinrd  Tempi© 

( New  PublictttmnH),  303 


LUlAHlMlYAil    CaNAK  61-1 

Iceland,  Dr,  Lu bonne's  jonrney  across,  52 
II.  Ft'dilcrsen  ou  tJiy  tbrmer  vege- 

tatioo  of,  102,  25r> 
Iry  Bay,  Alueka,  271.  276 
Ignntief,  J.  V.,  eicx^dition  in  CeDlral  Asia, 

425 
IgQuliev,  M.*  progrena  of  expedition  in  tlie 

Ti&Q  Slinn^  5i 
Hi,  valley  of  th«»  vej^etation  of,  426 
Ilyammri,  Mount,  Ahiaka,  278 
rncliiki  river,  Tibet,  730 
Inooniati    route   lo  the    Transvaal,    497, 

501 
Inde  Anghii§e,  L\  son   etat   nctuel — Boti 

metnr,    by   J.  Bartbelemy-St.  Hilair© 

(Now  FublicalionB),  587 
India,  Account  of  tho  Operati^na  of  the 

Great  Trigonometrical  Survey  of,  Prin- 

cipid    IVinngulntion   of   the    Joilhpore 

(New  Publication^!),  518 
Geographical    Education  in,  IL  J. 

Odgera  on.  687 
•  MemoirB  of  the  Geolr.p;ical  Survey 

of.  Sen  XIL  and  XIII.  (New  Puhlim- 

tionB),  2511 

Mn  Bbuiford  on   the   influence  of 


foretta  on  the  climate  in,  191 

physical  geoL-rrvpliy  of,  15R 

Heport  to  the  Sccretaiy  of  State  for, 

in  Council  on  tli<?  Reeordg  of  ihe  India 
Office,  by  F*  C.  Dmivera  (New  Publica- 
tions), 462 

Rubber,  Gutta   Percha,  and  Tde* 


graph  Worka  Cbrnp«ny,  8onndingd  taken 

by  the  (New  Pubiieatinna).  G^ili 
South  J  Mitisioiiij  in,  visited  and  de- 

i^criljcd,  by  Joteph  Blulleiia  (New  Publi- 

catEon»)«  61 
Statistieal  Alias  of  (New  Mapfl), 

729 
Survey  of,  Kpirit-leveled  Heights,  by 

Colonel  C.  T.  Haig  (New  PubHeationa)* 

45tt 
The  Dawn  of  British  Trtwle  to,  as 

j-ecpnled  in  the  C^inrt  Minutes  of  the 

Eaet  India  Cbmpajiy,  1591^-1003,  by  H. 

Stevens  and  Sir  George  Bird  wood  (New 

Pablications),  ISO 


IndiiH  The  Hishlanda  of,  by  ^ilfljor-Gcueral 
D.  J*  F.  Ncwall  (New  Pubhcatious), 
713 

The    Hiraalaynn    District    of    the 

North- western    Provineoa  of,  by  E.  S- 
Atkioson  (New  Publications),  586 

Indian  Custe,  by  the  late  John  AVilaon 
(New  Publications),  62 

— — —  Government  Survey  Ma[is  (New 
Maps).  138,  266,  527 

Baees  of  the  8tate  of  Vera  CniJt, 


Mexicoi,  The  Aboriginal,  by  A.  Baker » 
568  ift  seq. 

Survey)    pregramme    of    current 


season,  116 

Snfveys,  1885-6,  574 

Indies,  West,  and  Panama,  Jottings  on 
the,  by  A*  Radford  (New  PohlicatioasX 
461 

Indischcu  Archipt^lKgo,  Das  Le1>en  in  der 
Tropenxono,  H|>«eiell  im,  nacti  Dr.  Van 
der  Bui'ff'a  *De  geneesher  in  Kedcf- 
landsch-Indie '  (New  Publico  tiouiX 
712 

Indon^  vilhip,  21,  22 

I  no  TaJdayoshi's  declination,  &0 

Insnlinde:  Fxperieoces  of  a  Natur&lUt*i 
Wife  in  the  Eastern  Archipelago,  by 
Anna  Forbes  (New  Publications),  778 

International  Polar  Observations  (New 
Publications),  263^  522 

Inyaek  island,  500 

Ipaivaitani's  temple  or  dul>u,  78,  79 

Irawadi^  and  brauohea  of,  365,  369 

excessive  rainfall  at  the  source  of, 

37,38 

Journey  of  ihe  Expedrticm  under 

Colonel  Woodthorpe  from  Upper  Aaeam 
to  the^  and  Return  over  the  Patkol  Range, 
by  Major  C.  R.  Macgregor,  19  et  ieq. 
sources  of,  352  ft  toj. 


Ireland,  Pocket  Atla.«!  of,  by  J,  Bartbolo> 

mew  (New  l^Iaps),  658 
Isonzo,  Dor  Mittlere,  und  sein  Vefbaltxiisa 

znm  Natisune^bv  Otto  Gumprecht(New 

Publieiiitiona),  711 
Italia,   Carta   d\   da   Carlo    C^rri    (New 

Maps),  4G3 

Carta  del   Regno  d*  (New    Maps), 


Gran   Saeso  d'.  Carta  Topografic* 


265 


del  (New  Maps),  326 
Italiane,  Carta  delJe  Stnid«  Fenute  (New 

Maps),  137 
Italy:   Handbook   fur  Travellers,  by   K. 

Baedeker  (New  Publicatietis),  315 
Itasca,  Lake,  119 
Itimbiri  or  L^iika  river,  288,  291 
Iv&nof,  M.,  431 


Jack,  R.  L.,  (Seographical  Slap  of  Queens* 
htnd  (New  Maps),  593 

Report    on    the    Argentine    (Star) 

Silver  Mines,  Kennedy  District,  Queens- 
land (New  Publications),  589 


INDEX. 


807 


Jackson,  T.  G.,  Dalmatia,  the  Qnamero, 
and  I{>tria,  with  Gettigne  in  MoDtenegro 
and  the  Island  of  Grade  (New  Publica- 
tions), 648 

Jamaica  at  the  Royal  Jubilee  Exhibition, 
Liverpool.  1887,  by  C.  W.  Eves  (New 
Publications),  650 

Mr.  Hall  on  the  height  of  Blue 

Mountain  Peak  in,  579 

The  Handbook  of,  by  A.  C.  Sin- 
clair and  L.  R.  Fyfe  (New  Publica- 
tions), 59,  717 

James,  G.  P.,  Expedition  of,  from  the 
Chanchamayo  in  Peru  to  the  Atlantic, 
communicated  by  0.  R.  Markham,  505 

H.  E.  M.,  A  Journey  in  Manchuria, 

531  et  seq. 

Younghusband,     and      Fulford, 

Messrs.,  Journey  in  Northern  and 
Eastern  Manchuria,  235 

Jan  Mayen,  Die  Oesterreichische  Polar- 
station,  vom  Gapitan  von  Wohlgemuth 
(New  Publications),  263 

Japan,  AlLis  von  (New  Maps),  530 

Imperial  University,  Journal  of 

the  College  of  Science  (New  Publica- 
tions), 524 

mountain  system  of,  91 

nnch  Reison  und  Studien,  im  Auf- 

trage  der  K.  Preussischen  Regierung 
dargestellt,  by  Prof.  J.  J.  Rein  (New 
Publications),  130 

The  Language,  Mythology,  Ac,  of, 

by  B.  H.  Chamberlain,  with  an  Ainu 
Grammar  by  J.  Batchelor  (New  Publica- 
tions), 316 

The  Physical  Geography  of.  with 

remarks  on  the  people,  by  Dr.  Edmund 
Naumann.  86  et  seq, 

Japanese  Homes  and  their  Surroundings, 
by  E.  S.  Morse.  Peabody  Academy  of 
Science  (New  Publications),  459 

language,  The.  101 

Japan ische  Inselwelt,  Die,  by  Dr.  E, 
Naumann  (New  Publications),  587 

Jarintsof,  M.,  on  cliff  formations  along  the 
coast  of  tlie  Black  Sea,  431 

Java,  Eaart  van  het  Eiland  (New  Maps), 
728 

Jhering,  Dr.  K.  v.,  voyage  up  the  River 
Camacuam,  South  Brazil,  686 

Jiddama,  681 

Jiroseh,  677 

Jinglils  Khan  invasion  of  Central  Asia, 
230 

Jing-ri  Mountiiins,  228 

Johnston,  T.  R.,  Uncrowded  Atlas  of 
Politiciil  Geography  (New  Maps),  658 

• W.  &"A.  K.,  Commercial  Chart 

of  the  World  on  Mercator's  Projection 
(New  Maps),  786 

Jolly,  W.,  The  Realistic  Teaching  of  Geo- 
graphy  (New  Publications),  651 

Jones  river,  Alaska,  272 

Jub  river,  492 

Jubilee  Address  to  H.M.  the  Queen, 
R.G.S.'s,  438 


Jubilee  river.  New  Guinea,  576,  604 

Juhlke,  Dr.,  491,  492 

Karl,  Die  Erwerbungr  des  Kilima- 

Nscharo-Gebiets  (New  Publications), 
715 

Junker,  Dr.,  and  the  (Welle)  3Iakun. 
Between  the  Nile  and  the  Congo,  by  J. 
T.  Wills,  285  et  seq. 

arrival  of,  47,  304 

explorations  in  Central  Africa, 

204,  288,  289,  399  et  seq, 

reception  of,  at  Berlin  Geograph- 
ical Society,  and  lecture  oa  his  travels, 
313.  314 

remarks  on  explorations  in  Central 

Africa,  420 

the  late  Dr.  Fischer's  expedition 

for  the  relief  of,  45 

Justinian,  On  the  Buildings  of,  by  Pro- 
oopius.  Translated  by  A.  Stewart  and 
annotated  by  Sir  C.  W.  Wilson,  Pales- 
tine Pilgrims'  Text  Society  (New  Pub- 
lications), 323 

Jusuf  or  Yusuf,  Bahr,  608,  614 


K. 

Kabtlie,  Carte  de  la  Grande,  et  d'uno 
Partie  de  la  Mcdjana  (New  Maps), 
211 

Kaimondake  volcano,  Japan,  100 

Kaiser  Wilhelms-Land  und  der  Bismarck- 
Archipel,  von  C.  Hager  (New  Publica- 
tions), 208 

Kakibbi  or  Dueru  river.  Central  Africa. 
440 

Kala  Sofarak  fort,  103 

Kam  or  Kham  trilie,  Tibet,  228 

Kamard  valley,  105 

Kamerun,  Reise  in  der  Hinterlande  der 
Kolonie,  by  Dr.  B.  Schwarz  (New  Pub- 
lications), 320 

Skizzen  und  Betracbtungen,  by 

Max  Buchner  (New  Publications),  714 

Kam  pen.  Alb.  de,  Tabulse  maximss  quibus 
illustrantur  terrse  vetcrum,  in  usum 
scholarum,  Italia  and  Gallia  (New 
Maps),  398 

Kampti  tribe,  22 

Kamschatka  and  New  Guinea,  The  Cruise 
of  the  Marches!  to.  &c..  by  P.  H.  H. 
Guillemard  (New  Publications),  264 

Kappler,  A.,  Surinam,  sein  Land,  seine 
Natur,  Bevolkerung  und  seine  Kultur- 
Yerh'altnisse,  mit  Bezug  auf  Kolonisa- 
tion  (New  Publications),  133 

Kara-daria  river,  435 

Kurakol,  424  noU 

Kara-kum  desert,  626 

Karashalir  town,  Tibet,  736 

Karens  of  Burma,  The  Loyal,  by  D.  M. 
Smeaton  (New  Publications),  206 

Karlsruhe,  German  "Geogranhentag"  at, 
310 

Karm  Allah,  Emir,  letter  from,  to  Dr 
Junker,  413 


808 


INDEX. 


KiiTT,  H.  W,  8i?tou^  SUores  ftnil  Alps  of 
Alaska  (New  Publications),  4^10 

Ka*hgaria^  C:i|jtaiii  Grtjinbchefflki's  explo- 
ri\lioE8  in,  508 

KusoDge  town,  50 

Kiiaaal  river,  337,  338,  734,  77r» 

Kzisaai,  irpperi  anil  Sankuru,  Esplorationa 
on  tlip,  by  Dr.  Ludvvig  Wolf^  640  et  stt^. 

Kate,  Dr.  Ten,  progreiB  of  journey  m 
Giiiana,  55 

Kaokasui,  Der  vmd  seine  Volker,  by  B. 
von  Ertjkcrt  (New  Pablications),  518 

Kdvlrondo  Loogtiai^c,  Vcicabulary  of  tbe, 
by  Rot,  M.  WakLfluld  (New  Publica- 
tions), 588 

Eazbekf  Mount,  btiprht  of,  767 

Keane,  Prof.  A,  il,,  Eastern  Geography, 
A  Geograpby  of  the  Maky  Peninanla, 
&C»  (New  PublicatioDs),  524 

— The   Karth    and  the   Ocexm,  by 

E,    RecluR,   edited  by   (New   Publica- 
lions),  263 

Ke  ban -in  Oil  den,  42[)  noU 

Keller,  H,,  Keisokarte  der  Schwdz  (New 
Maps),  655 

KeniRh,  town  of,  667 

— —  to  Koikseir,  route  from,  €61 

Kerry-Nichols.  Mr.,  jemarks  on  Explora- 
tions in  South-L astern  Now  Guinea,  S5 

Keeaelmeyer,  C.  A.,  retnarks  on  a  Plea  for 
Ihi?  Meter,  707 

Kettle,  W.  R.,  A  few  Notes  on  tbe  Island 
of  St.  Mjcliael»  Azores,  and  A  ReiTr>rt  on 
the  Artificial  HarbouT  of  Fontu  Delgnda, 
St  Micliflel  (New  PublicationeX  2U5 

KettUr,  J,  L,  Zeitaehrift  lur  Wisfien- 
achaftlicbc  Gwigraphie,  bemnsgegebon 
van  (New  PubliLiitiona),  263 

Khan  TeDgri  Motintaina,  424 

Kharput,  429  note 

Khoten  oaaiB,  population  of,  229,  230 

river,  229,  230 

towD,  7M 

Kbor  Ambftf^n,  Ij62 

Khuieeb  Thalftr,  Originfllkarte  des  Ua- 
teren,  ron  F.  M.  Btapff  (New  Maps), 
529 

Kibcingi^  A  Tooabnlary  of,  aa  apoken  by  the 
Babaiigi  on  ibe  Up|jer  Congo  from  Kiva 
Mouth  to  Llb<iko,  l»y  A,  SiniM  (New 
Fiiblicationa),  133 

Kibo.  Mount,  height  of,  682 
Kilxiko  or  Kushoko  tribe,  754 
Kibonge  town,  411 

Kiepert,  R.,  l»r.  R.  Bobm'a  und  P. 
Richard'a  Routenaufnahmeii  zwischen 
detu  Tanganika-See  und  clem  Lnsilabu, 
eonstruirt  vun  (Kuw  Maps),  328 

• H.,    tTebersichtakjirte    der  Ver- 

bi^itnug  derDeutschon  in  Europe  (New 
M»p8),  786 
KikuDJi  Mis,  Quango  river,  239 
Kilimanjaro,  Dr.  H.  5Ieyer'tf  aacent  of»682, 

708,  766 
KiUma-Xiicharo-Gfibiets,   Die  Erwerbung 
del*,  by  Kail  Jiiblke(New  Publieationaj, 
715 


Kilkiv&n  and  Black  Snake,  Report  mi  the 

Geology  and  Mineral  Rcsonrces  of  the 

Difltricts  of  (New  Publieationa),  59 
Kilpin,  E.  F.,  Cape  of  Gmxi  Hope  Civil 

Servie^   Eiat,  1887,   and  Civil   Service 

Coltrndar,  1887,  edited  by  (New  Publi- 
cations), 2bD 
Kimbundo  or  Muene  Kiluata,  ehief,  755 
Kingani  river,  404 
Kinguft  Fjord,  522 
Ki|:>8,  J,,  Plan  de  Brages  et  de  Bmxellet 

(New  Mape),  325 

Plan  d©  Oftnd  (New  Blaps),  326 

Kiraifi  tribe,  Tibet,*  230 

Klrchlioff,  Alfr^f  Einleitung  in  die  Ukn- 

derkunde  von  Europa  (New  Publica- 

tionaX71l 
— Unaer  WiBsen    von   der    Erde 

(New  Publicfttionft),  653 
Kiria  town  and  river,  733 
Kiriti,  town  of,  549 
Kirishimayama,  volcaoic  group,  99 
Kitabi,  ptnaition  of,  189 
Kiteke.  A  Vocabulary  of  the,  as  spoken  by 

the  Bat  eke  (Batio)  and  kindred  tribeli 

on  the  Upper  Congo,  by  A.  Slnid  (New 

PublicatioiiB),  58 
Kit  tar  valley  and  waterfall,  670.  672,  673 
Kiwa  Pori  t^i  ibo,  601 
Kizuata-Hhito  tribe,  756 
Klein-Asien,  by  P,  de  Tchihatchef  (New 

Publieationa),  519 
Klementa,    D»,    Drevnosti    Minis^inskago 

Mueeya  (New  Publications),  459 
Klunzinger,  Herr,  6U0,  {>(i2 
Koko-ahili,  or  Blue  Range,  224  note 
Koner,  I'lofeufior,  death  of,  707 
Kongo,  Die  Nebendusat)  des  mittlem  (New 

Maps),  64 
^^ L4ingange,Diotionary  and  Grammar 

of  tlio,  (tc,  by  Rev.  W,  H.  Bontley  (New 

Fnblicatiiins),  58 
Tre  Ar  i,  by  P.  Moller,  G.  Pagela, 

oeh  E.  Gleerup  (New  Publi(jfttion»i),  261 
Korii^'hin,  M.,  Obaervatioua  0n  the  Attak 

Oaala  acid  tbe   lYanBrCa&pLan  Detierts, 

625 
Konshine,  M.,  journey    in    Traii«ca«pian 

muiitry,  430,  431 
Kopa  river,  Gentnd  Asia,  426  note 
Kcishtaijlau,  Mount,  619,  767 
Koeloi;  P.,  431 
Kosseir   and    Koptoa    (Kuft),  old    trade 

route  between,  661,  662 
Kotehiy,  Island  of,  Baron  von  TolFg  ex- 

l>loration  of,  577,  578 
Kraauoff,   M.,  progreaa  of  expedition   in 

KusMian  TurkiAUvn,  51,  54,  425,  426 
and   M.  Ignatief,  ootea  on   ex- 
plorations in  the  neighbourhood  of  Lnko 

Balkaah,  116 
Kranae,     Dr.,    ExplorationB    in     Uppet 

Guinea,  760 
journey  in    the  regionii  of  the 

Upper  Niger,  510 
K re itner,  Captain,  365 
Krick,  Abbe,  journeya  to  Tibet,  355,  356 


INDEX. 


809 


Kuchar  town,  750 

Kuckenthal,  Dr.,  explorations  in  Spitz- 
bergen,  515 

Euen-ltin  Bange,  228 

Kuisip  river,  511 

Enjipoii  village,  185 

Kuku-khoto,  233 

KtCmki,  19 

valley,  26 

Emno-Manytch  lowlands,  429  note 

Kiind  and  Tappenbeck,  Lieutenants,  ex- 
plorations of  the  Congo  region,  338 

Eunnnng  tribe,  31 

Kurla  town,  Tibet,  737 

Enroshiwo  warm  current,  98 

Eurtu  river,  Central  Asia,  426  note 

Euta  river,  291,  292 

Ewango  river,  707,  708 


Labonne,  Dr.,  journey  across  Iceland,  52 

Labrador,  Rev.  E.  J.  Peck's  journey  across, 
192 

Lagos,  A  Sketch  Survey  of  the  Inland 
Water  Communication  in  the  Colony  of 
(New  Maps).  529 

LcUiontan,  Lake,  North-western  Nevada, 
Geological  History  of,  by  I.  Cook  Bus- 
sell.  United  States  Geographical  Sur- 
vey (New  Publications),  321 

Lallemant,  Sr.  German  Avb,  Estudio 
Orogrrafico  en  la  Cordillera  de  Mendoza, 
Ac.  (New  Publications),  715 

Lanessan,  J.  L.  De,  La  Tnnisie  (New 
Publications).  649 

L'Expansion  Coloniale    de    la 

France  (New  Publications),  60 

Langnu,  30 

Lao-pai  Shan  or  Old  White  Mountain, 
541.  542 

La  Perouse,  Mount,  Alaska,  height  of,  279 

Last,  J.  T.,  Expedition  in  East  Africa,  340 

Exploration  of  the  Namuli   Hills, 

188 

Journey  of,  from  Blantyre  to  the 

Namuli  Hills,  42 

On  the  Sixjiet/s  Expedition  to  the 

Namuli  Hills,  East  Africa,  467  et  seq, 

Laura,  the,  684 

Laveleye,  Emile  do.  La  P^ninsule  des 
Balkans,  and  transltition  of.  by  Mrs. 
Thorpe  (New  Publications),  315 

Lawcs,  Rev.  W.  G.,  71 

Lawrence,  E.,  The  Progress  of  a  Century  ; 
or  the  Age  of  Iron  and  Steam  (New 
Publications),  134 

Laws,  Bev.  B.,  and  Mrs.,  The  Tshigunda 
Language  of  the  Lower  Zambesi  Begiou, 
East  Africa  (New  Publications),  58 

Table  of  Concords  and  Paradigm 

of  Verb  of  the  Chinyanja  Language,  as 
spoken  at  Lake  Nyassa  (New  Publica- 
tions), 58 

Ijeblanc,  L.,  Le  Havre  et  sea  Environs 
(New  Maps),  655 


Lefroy,  General  Sir  J.  H.,  Second  Beport 
of  a  Committee  for  inquiring  into  the 
Depth  of  Permanently  Frozen  Soil  in 
the  Polar  Begions,  769  et  seq, 

Lebour,  G.  A.,  Outlines  of  the  Geology 
of  Northumberland  and  Durham  (New 
Publications),  57 

Leipzig,  Plan  von,  von  G.  Hetzel  (New 
Maps),  463 

Leketi,  position  of,  189 

Leman,  Le  Lac,  by  Dr.  F.  A.  Forel  (New 
Publications),  258 

Lena,  Mouth  of  the,  Bussian  Polar  Station 
at  the  (New  Publications),  522 

Lendenfeld,  Dr.  B.  von,  Boutes  in  South- 
east Australia  (New  Maps),  529 

The  Glacial  Period  in  Aus- 
tralia (New  Publications),  208 

Lenz,  Dr.  O.,  arrival  of,  1 14 

expedition    for   the   relief  of  Dr. 

Junker,  49, 190,  240,  340 

Leocadie  Islands,  New  Guinea,  72 

Leopoldville,  position  of,  190 

Lepper,  M.  C.  H.,  remarks  on  the  Lu  river 
of  Tibet,  &c.,  373 

Levant,  Visit  to  Monasteries  in  the,  by 
Hon.  B.  Curzon  (New  Publications),  264 

Levasseur,  Prof.  E.,  Tables  of  the  Popula- 
tion of  the  Earth,  763 

Level,  A.  A.,  Nomenclator  de  Venezuela 
contentivo  de  su  censo  en  orden  alfiei- 
bc'tioo  (New  Publications),  526 

Leyst,  E.,  Eatalog  der  meteorologischen 
Beobachtungen  in  Bussland  und  Finn- 
land  (New  Publications),  458 

Liakov,  Island  of.  Dr.  Bunge's  explorations 
of,  577,578 

Liau-tung  province,  562 

or  Feng-tien  province,  531,  532 

Libanon.  Grundlinien  der  Pbysischen 
Geographic  und  Geologic  von  Mittel- 
Syrien,  von  Dr.  C.  Diener  (New  Publi- 
cations), 259 

Library  of  B.G.S.,  Beport  of  the,  451 

Libreville,  position  of,  189 

Likangala  river.  Central  Africa,  177 

Limbi,  Lake,  Central  Africa,  43,  439 

Linguistic  and  Oriental  Essays,  written 
from  1847-87,  by  B.  N.  Cust  (New 
Publications),  720 

Lingzi-tang  plateau,  Tibet,  352 

Linwin  river,  40 

Lista,'M.  Bamon,  expedition  to  Tierra  del 
Fuego,  384 

Litete's  village.  Central  Africa,  180 

Lituya  Bay,  Alaska,  279 

Liveleze  river,  185 

Livingstonia  mission  station,  182,  183 

Loango,  i)osition  of,  189 

Lob  district,  people  of,  737 

Lob,  Lake,  Prejevalsky*s  visit  to,  214 

Lob-nor  lake,  229 

Lockyer,  J.  Norman,  Outlines  of  Physio- 
graphy. The  Movements  of  the  Earth 
(New  PublicationsX  720 

Loczy,  Herr,  on  the  Mekong  river,  368, 
364 


^^^V                                                                           IKDEIX.                                                                 ^H 

^^^^H           Lofnden  bank,  Norwegian  coa&t»  extent  of, 

Maegregor,  Major  C.  R.,  rctnarks  on  the         1 

^^^H 

Expedition  from  Upper  Assam  to  tho         1 

^^^^H           Lo^^oo  river^  208 

Irawadi.  kc  40                                                  J 

^^^^H           Loll  it  Bmhmaputm  liver,  3G0 

MatGregor,  Sir  C.  M.,  Obituary  of,  194       ^J 

^^^H            Loika  (or  [tinibm )  rh'er,  288,  201 ,  298 

Maekenzie  river,  leugtli  of,  120',  253             ^^M 

^^^^^1           XxikcDje,  LicHi  teo  an  t  Tappenbeck's  jou  tnej 

Mftckinnon,  Rev.  J,,  South  African  Tndte  ^^M 

^^^^H               down          115 

(New  Publications),  519                              ^H 

^^^^H           liOiJiami  rivt  r,  644 

Mackinder,    H,   J.,    Fippointment    of,    as  '^^| 

^^^^H           Lotidou,  CentnJ,  Essfiye  on  the  Slireet  Be^ 

Reader  of  Geograjdiy  at  Oxford.  437 

^^^^^H               alignment,  HeconKtrucHon,  ami  SuDita- 
^^^^^H              tiou  of,  and  on  the  lit') i oust ng  of  the 

.■■..OlI^  «K. -B^         ^-,*              i  j-v  M  i^HI*  l*>4*^          A  .n  «■      m\*m-f^^^ 

• ~  course  oi    lecturca  jor  i-'jtiijTti 

University,  681 

^^^^H              Poorer  ClauBea  (Nt  w  Fublicatiim^),  57 

remarks  on  the  Scoi>e  and 

^^^^^H           . Meaoti  and  Pa^iie'a  Popnlar  Map 

Methods  of  fioograpliy,  100,  174 

^^^H               of  (New  Maps).  5!}1 

Tbe  Scope  and  MethoJa  of 

^^^^H           Lcn^'iikttnd*     8 billing    Gkography    (Kew 

Greograph3%  141  rt  taf. 

^^^^H               rnblicfitions),  720 

— '■ —   The     Teacbing     of      Geo- 

^^^^^H          Loi^n(;o  Marqnes,  504 

graphy  at  the  Univeraitiea,  698 

^^^H           Lubllosh  river,  G43 

Madagascar,  Mnpof,  by  Captain  S.  Po&field  ^h 

^^^^^1           LncBS,  G.  V^f  Introd action  to  tin  Iliatorical 

Oliver  (New  i^Iapn),  04                                 ^^M 

^^^^^1               Geography  af  tbe  Brillak  Colonies  (New 
^^^H               PublicatiooHX  ^^^ 

Madagaiikara,  SariU'Tattiny  (New  ^lapsX  ^^1 

^M 

^^^^^M          Lucerne,  Lake,  depth  of,  68B 

MaJimola  efation.  East  Africa,  494                ^H 

^^^^H           l^nt^^ti   ct  Ffikouan,   h3^    Alfred  Mnrehe 

Mabaffy,  J.  P.,  Kamhlps  and  Studies  in    ^^B 

^^^H              (New  FublicAtioQsX  77^ 

Greece  (New  Publications),  258                         1 

^^^^^1           Lndi  and  Liij^t  rivent,  472 

Mahditit    rebidlion    in   tlie    Souilan  and          1 

^^^^^1           Ludima-Niadi,  poHition  of,  189 

Central  Africa,  314,412                                       1 

^^^^^H           Lit  genii  A  river,  4(j8,  4G9 

'  Ma  hut  i  village,  44                                             ^^J 
Maidan-tal  river,  435                                      ^^B 

^^^^^H           Lu^cm  river,  475 

^^^1           Lnkugu  river,  188,  241,  471,  472,  474 

Biainia  to  Ilbrimo,  distance  from,  36             ^^M 

^^^^H          Lnlu       VL-r,  7  5  G 

Mainog,  Lnke,  428  note                                     ^^ 

^^^^^A         Lunda,  Central  Africa,  Captain  Car\'alho'fl 

Maio  or  Amamnio  tribe,  755                                    1 

^^^^^H              infonnation  on  Ibe  history  of,  382 

Maitkuil,   Caplain,  and  Captain  Talbot»          1 

^^^^^1          Lnnzn  river,  Central  Africa,  177 

doiirneys  in  AfgbauiiitEin,  102  ct  *<*g.                 1 

^^^H          Luplon  Bey,  409 

MakabtihH,  pObitiou  of,  189                                        1 

^^^^^H          ■*  ' — -  on  tho  poiiiiion  of  tLe  Mukua 

Makarof,  S.  0„  431                                                   1 

^^^^H              river  and  tributarices,  2f>2 

Makua  WbId,  vegetation  and  raot's  of  tilt           J 

^^^^H          Lti  River  of  TIIk  t ;  is  it  tho  Bouree  of  the 

294, 295                                                           ^m 

^^^^H              Imwadi  or  the  Salwin?  by  Qenetul  J. 

t\Vrl\r'\  rii-rr    *'^1     'M^"    f?in                          ^^^1 

^I*t?llC^  riici,  ^tfl,  &•/£,  Xi«'0                           ^^^^H 

^^^H               T.  Walker,  352  H  ^<;. 

— ■ —  Dr.  Junker's  work  at  the,    ^^ 

^^^H           ».  ^ ,  murcus  of  the,  364,  368 

289,  200 

^^^^^H           Lusangadzi  rivL-r,  184 

trtbe,  470 

^^^^1          LuBumbwe  bay,  Lake  Njaaaa,  182 

Halatia,  J29  no/c 

^^^^^1          Luvelevi  river,  187 

Malay^  or  East  Indian  Arcliipidfigo,  wUli 
Burma,  Siam,  dtc,  by  W,  Bhuwe  (New 

^^^H          LuK,  A.  C,   Die  Dalkunhidblneel  (New 

^^^H                Fnhlicaiiniii^),  048 

MaptX  139 

^^^^^B          Lytlekker,  H.,  Catalogue  of  the  HemAins 

Peniusufa,  Indo-China,  Ac.,  A  Gco- 

^^^^^1              of  Fki^toetue  and  IVe-historio  Yerte- 

grapby  of  tbe,  by  Prof.  A.  11.  Keane  (New 

^^^^V              brata  eontjiined  in  the  Geohgfcai  De- 

Fublicatioi]s),  524                                            ^— 

^^f                    purtinent  of  the  Indian  llueeum,  Calcntta 

Malcnia  river,  472                                                ^^M 

^^^^               (New  Publication 8),  259 

MMhi,  H.  B.,  Sunlight  (New  Pubh'cations).    ^H 

^^■^H          Catalogue  of  tho  Betnatns   of  | 

^M 

^^^^H              Siwalik   Ytrtebrata    conlained    in    tbe 

Mali^klm  riTer,  369                                          ^H 

^^^^^               Geological  DrpHrtinent  of  the   Indian 

Malloco  province,  Chile,  443 

^^^                    Museum,  Calcutta.     Fart  I.  Mnmmalia. 

Mftlte-Bran,  V,  A.,  Carte   du   Meoklem* 

^H                     Fart  If.  A vea,  Keptdia,  and  Fificea  (New 

l>ourg-Sehwcria  et  Strelitz  (New  Mapa), 

^H                     Fublicatiouf),  25^ 

403 

Maps),  463 

^P 

Mammoth  and    tbe    Flood,    by   II,  H. 

Iloworth  (New  Publicationf),  784 

Mamie,  R.  K.,  423 

Manchuria,  A   Journey  in,  by  H.  E.  M, 

Ma'iiza  tribe,  *jft(> 

Jamc^,  531  ft  s^q.                                         ^_ 

5lai'gregor»  Major  C  R.,  Journey  of  tho 

— -^^  florjt  and  fauna  of,  548,  549          ^^| 

Exijetliliiin  under  t'olonel  Wo^idtborpe 

— biatory  of,  534,  536                        ^H 

from  Upi>er  Assam  to  the  Irawadi,  and 

' Messrs.    James,   Yonnghns-           V 

.                          return  over  tbe  Fatkui   Range,  19  et 

band,     and       FaIford*B     Journey     m            M 

^^K 

Northern  and  Eastern,  235                          ^^1 

INDEX. 


811 


Mang'anja  and  Tao  tribea,  Bev.  A.  Hether- 

wickon  the,  114 
Matigbattu,  404-407 
Mant^tza  Lake,  732 
Manic4i,    Captain    Paiva   de    Andrada's 

journey  in,  621 
Carta  do  Districto  de  (New  Maps), 

593 
Manipur,  rainfall  and  vegetation  of,  39 
Manual  of  Scientific  Enquiry,  The  Ad- 
miralty (New  Publications),  651 
Manyanga,  position  of,  189 
Map  Room  of  B.G.S.,  Report  of  the,  450 
Maps,  Now — 

Africa,  64,  210,  828,  396,  528,  593,  656, 
724,  788 

America,  65,  211,  464,  593,  657,  724,788 

Asia,  138,  266,  527,  593,  788 

Astronomical,  68 

Atlases,  66,   140,   212,    2G8,  330,  397, 
466,  529,  594,  657,  728,  789 

Australasia,  65,  267,  529,  593 

Charts,  65,  139,  329,  465,  725,  789 

Educational,  268,  398 

Europe,  63,  136,  209,  265,  325,  395,  463, 
526,  591,  655,  723,  786 

Indian  Gk)yemment  Surveys,  138,  266, 
527 

Indian  Ocean,  139 

Ordnance  Surveys,  63,    137,  210,  265, 
327,  395,  464,  527,  592,  655,  723,  787 

Pacific  Ocean,  725 

West  Indies,  65 

World,  62,  786 
3Iarccl,  G.,  Note  sur  une  Carte  Catalane  de 

Diilceri  ant^rieure  a  TAtlas  Catalan  de 

1375  (New  Publications),  784 
Marche,  Alfred,  explorations  in  the  island 

of  Saipan.  Marionne  Group.  759 
Lu9on  et  Palaouan  (New  Publica- 
tions), 779 
Margry,  Pierre,  M^moires  et  Documents 

pour  servir   k  I'Histoire  des  Origines 

Francjaises  des   Pays  Outre-Mer  (New 

PublicationsX  262 
Markham,  C.  R.,  Expedition  of  G.  P.  James 

from  the  Chanchaniayo  in  Peru  to  the 

Atlantic,  communicated  by,  505 
Famous     Sailors     of     former 

Times:  TJie  Storv  of  the  Sea  Fathers 

(Now  Publications),  524 

-  Obituary  of  Don  Mariano  Felipe 


Paz  Soldan,  386 

■  river.  New  Guinea,  310 


Marshall-Inseln,  Die,  in  Erd-  und  Volker- 
kunde,  Handel  und  Messen,  by  0. 
Hager  (New  Publications),  322 

Martin,  K.,  Bericht  liber  einoReise  nach 
Nioderliindisch  West-Indien  und  daruuf 
gegrUndete  Studien  (New  Publications), 
520 

—  Westindische    Skizzen    (New 

Publications),  461 

M.,  travels   in  Eastern    Siberia, 


203 


M.    J.,    expedition    in     Eastern 


Siberia,  378 

No.  XII.— Deo.  1887.] 


Martin,  M.  J.,  Paris  Geographical  Society's 

Gold  Medal  awarded  to,  255 
Mfl/tins,  C,   Du   Spitzberg  an    Sahara; 

Ktapes  d'un  Natnraliste  an  Spitzberg,  en 

Lanonie,  &c.  (New  Publications),  524 
Masalsky,  Prince,  excursion  in  the  Kars 

district,  429 
Massaua,  Carta  speciale    della    Begione 

attomo  a,  costruita  da  Guido  Cora  (New 

Maps),  396 
Matabele  tribe,  693 
Matabeleland  and  the  country  between  the 

Zambesi  and  the  Limpopo,  by  Captain 

C.  E.  Haynes,  692 
Matthews,  Dr.  Percy,  On  the  Depth  of 

Permanently  Frozen  Soil  in  the  Polar 

Begions,  769,  773 
Matupi,  New  Britain,  4 
Maua,  cannibal  tribe,  473 
Maudsluy,  A.  P.,  explorations  in  Central 

America,  345 
Maurice,  Colonel  J.  F.,  Militsry  History 

of  tlie  Campaign  of  1882  in  Egypt  (New 

Publications),  780 
Mayo  tribe.  Vera  Cruz,  568,  570 
Mazar-i-Sharif,  road  to,  by  Dara-i-Tosuf, 

104 

town,  106 

MazjrTagh  bills,  734 

Mazures,  M.  T.  des.  Memorandum  on  the 

Countries  between  Tibet,  Yunnan,  and 

Burma,  355,  367 
Mbamba  village,  48 
Mbo  tribe,  115 
M'bomu  river,  402,  409 
McArthur,  A.,  Explorations  in  the  Arctic 

Begions,  246 
Mecca,    extracts    from    Dr.    Hurgronje's 

pnper  on  his  six  months'  residence  in, 

257 
Mecklembourg-Schwerin  et  Strelitz,  Carte 

du.  par  V.  A.  Malte-Brun  (New  Maps). 

463 
Medals,     Boyal,     and     other      awards. 

announcement  of   the  adjudication  of 

the,  for  the  year  1887,  311 
.  presen- 
tation of  the,  452 
Medamud  hills,  674 
Medisa  glen,  074 
Mediterrane'e,  Par  delk  la,  by  R  Fallot 

(New  Publications),  649 
Medjerda,  Das  Deltaland  des  (New  Maps), 

137 
delta  of.  Dr.  Fischer^s  observa- 
tions of  the,  243 
Mcge  tribe,  295 
Meh-kha  river,  369 
Meierda,  river,  682 
Mekeo  district.  New  Gninea,  74 
Mekong,  Le  Hant-,  on  le  Laos  ouvert,  by 

Paul  Branda  (New  Publications),  316 
Lieut  do  Fdsigny's  explorations 

of  the,  774 

'  river,  363 


Melanesia,   Ten    Years    in,  by  Bev.    A. 
Penny  (New  Publications),  523 

8   L 


^^^1                                                                           INDEX.                                                  ^^^^^1 

^^^^1          Meliineflia,  The  Langtiftgei  of,  hy  Professor 

Hiyomotegawa  river,  Japan,  96                     ^^| 

^^^^1              G.  von  der  Gabelentz  (New   Publica- 

'    Brikwai's  village^  44                                          ^^H 

^^^H              tioDsX 

Mhin^uzi  river,  Ceiitral  Afirica,  177              ^^M 

^^^^H           M4.4uDe8mn  Misalon.  The  Islnnd  Toyago, 

Muaiuazi  river,  43                                             ^^M 

^^^H                1885  {Nvvf  Publications).  59 

Mobnngi  river,  2DS,  361                                     ^^M 

^^^^B           Melkiia,  07G 

— Captain  vun  Gele'a  explorations 

^^^^1           ^reiiiikha  town,  483 

of  the,  440 

^^^^H           Menge,  Dr.,  journey  up  the  Kwftugo  rirer. 

Modem  Geograpliy,  Roval  Atlas  of,  by  the 

^^^H 

late  A.  K/ Johnston  (New  Maps),  897 

^^^^H          MeriaTi,  MatthcDus,  Skizze  seines  hdbena^ 

Mohn,  H.j  Orunlzii^^e   der  Meteorologio 

^^^^M             &c.,  by  H.  Eckhcirdi  (New  PublicAtionB), 

(New  PubJi^Mitions).  721 

^^^H 

Mokuan  tribe,  601 

^^^^H          ^Icfgcbur^.  8(>Gcinlkartc  dea  Ecgiemngs- 

Mokoshat.  29 

^^^H               E(  2irka  (Xow  MiLp»\  327 

Moller,   P.,  G.   Fagek  och  E.   Gleemp, 

^^^^^H          Herv  <Iihtrict,  hurvc^ji}  in  the,  436 

Tro  Ar  i  Kongo  (New  Publications), 

^^^^^H present  CO iidilioQ  of^  51 

2G1 

^^^H          lilem-^h  El  Bagar  gor^e,  GC5 

Moloney,  A,,  Sketch  of  the  Foreatry  of     ^ 

^^^H          ^[cesediiKHa,  G.  B.,  Diaho  Stoma  Mlli- 

West  Africa  (New  Publications),  519          ^H 

^^^^H              tairc  ddlt}  Ei volte  al  Sudan  dal  1878  in 

Mommseo,  T.^  The  Pntviuces  of  the  Romoii    ^^| 

^^^^B              poi  (New  Publicationa),  261 

Empire  from  Ceesar  to  Diocletian,  trans-    ^^M 

^^^^H          Hesscr,  Dr.,  Journey  np  th^.*  Quango  River 

Jated  by  W.  P.  Dickson  (New  PublLca-     ^H 

^^^H              (New  Fuldicalions),  7S0 

^^^H          Meter,  A  Flea  for  the,  by  K  G.  Haven- 

tionj),  263                                                       ^^ 

Monaco,  Princ^^  Albert  de,  Snr  lo  Gulf-          1 

^^^^1 

8tream  (New  Publicatiiius),  322                          1 

^^^^^1          Menrer,  J.,  DtBtanz-  nnd  HeiFekarte  von  ' 

MoBbuttu  country  and  natives,  294.  295,           I 

^^^^1               Tirol,  hcurboitet  von  (New  Maps),  526 

296                                                                 _1 

^^^^^H          —  ^^-  DistanZ'  nnd  Ket^ekarte  der  otat* 

Mongol  tribes,  7*13,  744,  747                              ^H 

^^^^H             liehoQ  Alpitngehiute  Ocsterreiclja  (New 

Mongolia  and  Til>et,  Prejevalsky'a  jomneTS    ^^| 

^^^H              Maps),  521^ 

in,  213,  214                                                      ^M 

^^^^H          Me3;i&\  TliB  Aborigiual  Indian  Baces  nf 

Monsoons,  1^1  r,  Blanford  on  the  origin    ^^M 

^^^^1              the  State  of  Vera  Cru2,  by  A.  Baker, 

and  character  of  t lie,  191                               ^^U 

^^^H                 a 

Monlano,  J.,  on  ftcelimatisatioa,  691                      1 

^^^^H          Moyer,  Dr.  H.,  aB<!eDi  of  Kilitnaajaro,  682, 

Moon,   The    Handy  Map  of   the    (Kew           M 

^^^B 

Maps),  08                                                       ^^1 

^^^^H          Kiani's  route  in  Central  Africa,  406 

Mcore,  A.  \V.,  Obituary  of,  200                       ^H 

^^^^H          Mill,  H.  R.,  remarks  on  somo  defects  of 

Moresby.  Port,  hous«  s  of,  82                              ^^M 

^^^^^1               the  Ordnanco  Map^,  704 

Morgan,  K,  Delmar,  Prejeralsky^s  Journeys    ^^| 

^^^^^H          Hillerf  W.,  NotcB  on  a  Fiirt  of  the  Weatem 

and  DIscoveritB  in  Central  Asia,  219  tt    ^ 

^^^H              FroDtier  of  British  Hondtiras,  420 

seq. 

^^^^H          Milne,  Dr.»  observations  on  tba  climate  of 

remarks  on  Prejeval sky's  Jotir- 

^^^^1              Blantyn?,  305 

neys  and  Discoveries  in  Central  Asia, 

^^^^1          3Iinchin,  J.  G.  C,  The  Growth  of  Free^lom 

232 

^^^^^H              in  tlie  Bidkan  Peninsula  (New  Fublica- 
^^^H             tiouii),  258 

New  Britidti  Group.  Is 

^^^^H          Ming  dynasty  of  Chiiifl,  534 

remarks  on  the  Scop©  and  Me- 

^^^^H         Minnesota^  The  Geological  and  Natural 

thods  of  laeography,  172 

^^^^^1              History  Surrey  of,  Annual  Reports  for 

rbUf?piuji    vjvogrupjiicxLi    i>  orj£   m 

^^^^1              18^4  and  1S85  (New  Publications),  461 

1SS6,  423  ei  scq,                                              ^M 

^^^^^V          MinuBiuHkago  Mu^eya.  Drovno^ti.  by  D. 

M€frin;ja  apteraj  671                                               ^^H 

^^^^H              Elements  (New  Fublie&lioiiB),  459 

Morioka,  high  declination  near,  Northern 

^^^B          MiEbmi  Iribe,  24 

Japan,  90 

^^^^^1          Hiaai^^ippit  Down  the  Great  River  ^  cm* 

Morse,  E*  S,,  Ancient  and  Modem  Methods 

^^^^^1               bracing  an  account  of  the  discovery  of 

of  Arrow-Release  (New  Publicatians)* 

^^^^^1               the  true  «^urce  of  ilie,  &c.,  by  Captain 

264 

^^^H              "Willard  Glazier  (Now  Publica'tiona),  717 

Peabody    Academy    of    Scienoe. 

^^^^^H          ■ Map   illuatrative  of  Captain 

Memoirs^  vol,  ii,    Japanese  Homes  and 

^^^^H              Willard  Glazier's  Voyage  of  Exploration 

their  Surroundiaga  (New  Publicaticnis). 

^^^B             to  the  Source  of  the  (New  Maps),  211 

459 

^^^V         — - — nver,  length  of,  120,  253 

Moseley,  Professor,  on  geology  in  relation 

^^^^^1 the  sources  of  the,  119 

to  geography,  140 

^^^H                              The  True  Source  of  the,  bv 

Mosbi,  491 

^^^H             Peafce  GUea  (New  Fublicatiouji},  262« 

Mother  and  Daughters,  volcanoes  of  Kaw     ^^| 

^^^■' 

Bntain,  3                                                     ^H 

^^^^H          3(iasouri-3Ii8atEsippi  river,  length  of,  12€ 

Mountain  Ranges,    the   Origin   of,    eon-     ^^U 

^^^^H           Mitchell,    Mrs.  Murray,   A    Mii^bionary^s 

sidered  expLTiiiieu tally,  &c.,  and  in  re-      ^^M 

^^^B              Wffe  among  the  Wild  Tribes  of  ii^outh 

Ifltion  to  tbeirGe^dogieal  History,  by  T.      ^^B 

^^^^B             Bengal  (New  Foblications),  61 

"^~"  J 

INDEX. 


813 


Moyano,  Lieni  C,  explorations  in  Pata- 
gonia, 384 

Mpamba  village,  183 

M'Pombo  (Alima),  position  of,  189 

Mponda's  village,  180, 181 

Mpulusa  village,  184 

Muarn  or  Wembare  river,  45 

Muata  Mosefo  Matiamvo,  Chief,  755 

Muinga  village,  48 

Muir  Glacier  of  Alaska,  Mr.  Frederick 
Wright's  observations  of  the,  118,  283 

Mukaddasi,  Description  of  Syria,  inoludiug 
Palestine,  by,  translated  from  the 
Arabic  and  annotated  by  Gay  le  Strange. 
Palestine  Pilgrims*  Text  Society  (New 
Publications),  323 

Mukden,  538 

Mukenge,  64G 

Mullens,  Joseph,  Mission  in  South  India 
visited  and  described  (New  Publica- 
tions), 61 

Huller,  F.  Max,  The  Sacred  Books  of  the 
East,  translated  by  various  Oriental 
scholars,  and  edited  by  (New  Publica- 
tions), 260 

MuUer,  H.  P.  N.,  Een  Bezoek  aan  do 
Delagoa-Baai  (New  Publicatious),  780 

Mullik  tribe,  28 

Munchen,  Neuesten  Plan  von,  von  J. 
Straube  (New  Maps),  655 

Munich  Geographical  Society,  Proceedings 
of,  December  3rd,  1886,  56 

Munfia'  Valley,  679 

Mungala  river,  CJentral  Africa,  lientenant 
Baert's  ascent  of  the,  306 

Mung  Lung  village,  21 

Munza,  King,  296 

Morg,  Touristen-Karte  vom,  von  A.  Walde 
(NewMap8),787 

Marie,  Dr.,  remarks  on  explorations  in 
Central  Africa,  419 

Murray,  John,  Handbook  for  Travellers  in 
Devonshire  (New  Publications),  648 

Portugal 

(New  Publications),  648 

John,  and  the  late  Sir*Wyville 

Thomson,  Report  on  the  Scientific  Be- 
sults  of  the  Voyage  of  H.M.S.  Challenger^ 
prepared  under  the  superintendence  of 
(New  Publications),  324,  720 

K.  B.,   Commercial   G^graphy, 

considered  especially  in  its  relation  to 
New  Markets  and  Fields  of  Production 
for  British  Trade  (New  Publications), 
652 

R.  A.  F.,  Geology  and  Phvsical 

Geography  of  Victoria  (New  Publica- 
tions), 650 

Mur-ussu  river,  Tibet,  225 

Musart  Pass,  Thian  Shan  range,  425 

Mutan  Cliiang  river,  555 

My.shenkof,  M.,  expedition  in  Eastern 
Bokhara,  433 


N. 

Naohtioal,  Gustav,  Erinnerungen  an,  by 

Dorothea  Berlin  (New  Publications),  651 
Nadarof,  Lieut.-Col.,  431 
Naga  Hills,  vegetation  of  the,  40 

tribe,  24 

Nagong-chu  river,  370 

Naichi  Pass  and  Valley,  742,  743,  746 

Naka'al  Teir,  668 

Naman  district.  New  Guinea,  78,  79,  80 

Nam-Dumai  or  Phungmai  river,  31,  32 

Namieb  Plain,  511 

Nam-kin  river,  31 

Nam-lung  river,  31 

Namuli  Hills,  East  Africa,  J.  T.  LasVs 

explorations  of  the,  188 
Journey  of  Mr.  J.  T.  Last 

from  Blautyre  to  the,  42 
On  the  Society's  Expedition 

to  the,  by  J.  T.  Last,  467  ei  seq. 

—  Peak,  position  and  height  of,  472 


Nan-shan  Mountains,  218,  219 

Napchu  village,  Tibet,  227 

Natal,  Bush  Life  in,  when  a  youn^  Colony. 
My  African  Home ;  or,  by  E.  W.  Feilden 
(New  PubUcations),  206 

Naumann,  Dr.  E.,  Dio  Erscheinungcn  des 
Erdmagnetismus  in  ihrer  Abh'angigkeit 
vom  Ban  der  Erdriiide  (New  Publica- 
tions), 652 

Die  Japanische  Inselwelt  (New 

Publications),  587 

The    Physical 


Geomphy   of 

Japan,  with  remarks  on  the  People,  86 

et  seq, 
Navez,  Louis,  De  Tinfluence  des  Forma- 
tions G^logiques   en  Belgiquo   (New 

Publications),  711 
Nawa  river,  291 
N'Doruma,  chief  and  settlement,  288,  289, 

401,  402,  404 
Nederlandsch-Indisch    Plokaatboek,   von 

J.  A.  Van  der  Chijs  (New  Publications), 

260 
Needham,  J.  F.,  Gill  Memorial  awarded  to, 

311,  454 
corroboration  of  "Wilcox  and  the 

Pandit  on  the  Lohit  river,  360,  867 
Neis,  Dr.,  travels  in  China,  127 
Nelson  River,  Depth  of  Frozen  Soil  in  the 

Bed  of,  769 
Nepoko  river,  291 
Neumann,  Dr.  L.,  Orometrie  des  Schwarz- 

waldes,    Geographische  Abhandlungen 

(New  Publications),  129 
Neusa  harbour.  New  Ireland,  7 
Newall,  Major-General  D.  J.  F.,  The  High- 
lands  of  India    (New    Publications), 

713 
New  Britain  coast,  currents  and  tides  of 

the,  2,  3 
Group,  The  Islands  of  the, 

by  H.  H.  Romilly,  1  et  seq. 

marriage  laws  and  costoma, 


8,  9, 10, 17 


'  population,  6 


3  L  2 


814 


INDEX. 


New  Engl  an  d»  Prof.  SLaler's  obserratioTia 

oo  the  rivers  of,  247 
* Guiiieti,  ant]  tlio  Western  Pacific  la- 

Inndtt,  further  corTGapotideticeconcemiDg 

(New  PuUication&),  136 
— . __*  A  Been  t  of  I  he  Owen  Stanley 

Kiinge  by   C»    H.    Hart  maun    and   G. 

HiiDter»  621 
Atifitralkn    expedition    to» 

iiiider  Mr.  Cuthbertooti,  608 
^^  ~ —  Britiili,  Difleovery  of  two  new 

Rivera  la,  by  T.  F.  Bevan,  595  et  §eq, 

-'   i^ued    by    Mesarfi. 


Bums,  Pliilp  &  Co.  (New  FublicatioDsX 

322 

*  climate  of,  85 

— - —  c  xpJ«iration«,  245 

►  ExploratioDJj       id       South- 

eaai^m^  by  Rev.  J.  Clialmers,  1\  et  seq. 
^— German,  Joorneyof  Admiral 

Toa  ScblctiiitK  and  Dr.  Scbmder  up  the 

Emprcfs  Augusta  river,  120 

exploration  of  tlie 


couist  of,  hj  Adnjiral  von  Scbldnit^  309 
-  manners  and  customa  of  the 


nalivca  of,  81,  82,  85,  86 
—  -==^ — —  Mr.  Bcvan*a  discovery  of  two 
new  rivera  in,  570 

Pioneering    in,    by   Jamea 


Qialmers  (New  Publications),  394 

.  guinmary  of  explorations  in, 


B44 


—  The  Government  of  Vicloria^s 
expedition  to  the  Oweti  Stanley  Range, 
305 

— ^  Hanover  Island,  7,  8 

Ireland  I:?hind,  6,  7 

Siberian  Islands',  Rosaian  expedition 

to  the,  under  Dr.  Buuf*o  and  Baron  von 
Toll,  progreau  of,  51,  117*  577 

South  Wules,  Map  ot  (New  Maps),  65 

-^  —- Refiulta    of   MelfiOFO- 

logicat  Observation H  made  in,  by  H.  C. 
Ensatll  (Nt^w  Publiciitions),  718 

*- — -  Ytirk  tmd  Peunuylviinia  lioundnry. 
Report  of  the  Regent's  Bonn«^»ry  Coui- 
miasion  upon  the  (New  PubUcalions), 
781 

^^—  Zen  land  Indtistriti!  Exhibition,  18K5, 
Ofliciftl  Record  (New  PublicationB),  52:^ 

— Institute,  Transactions  nnd 

Proceeding  of  the»  1886  (New  Publica- 
tions), 719 

^ —  popnlalion  of,  758 

Ngala  river,  298 

^j^mi.  Lake,  244 

N'Ganchu,  jxjuitioa  of,  189 

NgotnanOf  pttsition  of,  4t)S 

Niam-Niam  tribea,  406 

Nicaragua-Kanales,  Sjiecialkarte  dea  (New 
Maps),  4tj4 

Nioobii  *  H  au  [>lj*teni  warto,  Jabreabcrich  t 
am  25  Mui  l^i^i\  (Ntw  Pul>liratiouH),  6U 

Niederlandifcch  We^it-Indien,  Bericht  ul»er 
eiiie  ttcise  nsr  h»  itnti  darniif  g:cgriuuiete 
Stodien,  liy  K.  Martin  (Now  Publica- 
tions), 520 ' 


Nietmann,  W.,  Verkcbrs-  nnd  Eidenbobn- 

Atlas  dor   Ocsterreichisch-Ungamchen 

Blouarcfate  (New  llapa),  526 
Niger  river,  419 
Upper.  Dr.  Krauae'a  jouraey  in  the 

regions  of  the,  510 
Nile  and   the  Congo:   lietween   the,   Dr* 

Junker  and  the  (Welle)  Makua,  by  J. 

T.  Wills,  2B5  ct  se'], 
' Delia,  Prol  Af*cberaon'a  joumeya  in 

the,  516 

difieharge  of  the,  609 

Expedition,  The  Great,  of  1884-5. 

The  Campaign  of  tb©  Cntoraots,  beinpr  ft 

personal  narrative  of  tlie,  hy  Colonel  Sir 

W.  F.  Butler  (New  Publicationa),  459 
— —  length  of,  120,  253 

levelai  and  volume  of  the,  CIO,  611 

-- —  navi^tion  and  explorations  of  the, 

286,  2H7 
— —  slope,  the  rivers  of  the,  293 
Ninguta,  town  of.  556 
Nitahatkn,  Luke,  Siberia,  379 
N'Kunja,  poaition  of^  189 
Non^yong  river,  41 

'■ Lake,  36 

Kordefiakiiftd,  The,  G83 

XorthumberlaTid  nnd  Durlinm,  Outlines  ot 

the  Geology  of,  by  G,  A.  Lel>our  (New 

PublicaiiriTis),  57 
Norwav.     Generalkiirt  over    det    BydUge 

Norge  i  18  Blade  (New  Maps),  209 
Norwegian  Cbiirta  (New  Mftpa),  329 
Oo«at  and  deop-aea  fiurvey  in 

1886  by  Oaptidn  Fnbricitia,  380 
deep-sea    aoutidingB   off 

the,  115 
*- — ->       -  North     Atlnntie     Expeditio'D. 

Part  XVL  (New  Publications),  129 

■  North     Atlantic     Expedition 


1876-8  (New  Publicatif>Ti»),  523 

Nosiiofr,  Conatantin,  expedition  to  Nova 
ZembK  378 

Novaviyesk,  town  of,  559 

Nova  Zembln,  N.  C.  NoailoflTB  expedition 
to,  378 

Nsakkata  tribe,  295 

Nucbnk  village,  Alaska,  277 

NuraingTow,  A.  V.,  G.  V.  Jnggnrow  Ob- 
servatory, Dalja  Gardens,  Vizngapatnm. 
Results  of  Meteorokigicfil  Observations 
18N6(New  Publications),  652 

Nyangwtj  town,  49 

Nyaeaa.  Luke,  A  Journey  to,  and  Visit  to 
the  Hagwani^wttra  and  th*>  J*ourcc  of  the 
Rovuma,  in  188<),  by  the  Bishop  of  the 
IJniverftities*  Jlission  to  Central  Africa 
(New  Publicationa),  393 


O, 

OnEH,  F.  A.,  Camps  in  the  Carribbeet,  ftc 

(New  PubJieations),  134 
Obituary  Lir-t  for  1886-7,  351 
Obrte,  Mount,  Oweii  Stanley  Range,  Mr. 

Cuthbtrttou*s  atfcent  of,  758 


INDEX, 


815 


Odgen,  M.  J.,  on  Geogmpbioal  Edacaiion 
in  India,  687 

Odoli  or  Autun,  town  of,  560,  567 

Oesterreich,  Sprachen-Karte    der    West- 
lichen  Kionlander  von  (New  Maps),  137 

-UDgarischen    Eisenbahnen, 

Karte  der  (New  Maps),  209 

' -Ungarn,     Eisenbahn-  nnd 

Post-Oommunications-Earte   von  (New 
Maps),  209 

•  Pbysikalisch-Statis- 


tischer    Handatlas    von   (New  Maps), 
789 

Yerkehrskarte  von 


(New  Maps),  655 

Oesterreichsch-Ungariscben  Monarchie, 
Specialkarte  der  (New  Maps),  591, 
723 

Monarobie, 

Yerkebrs-  nnd  Eisenbabn-Atlas  der,  von 
W.  Nietmann  (New  Maps),  526 

Ogilvie,  W.  W.,  explorations  in  British 
Columbia,  758 

Olbich,  G.,  Special-karte  des  Kreises 
Waldenburg  (New  Maps),  723 

Oldham,  R.  D.,  On  Probable  Changes  in 
the  Geography  of  the  Punjab  and  its 
Bivers  (New  Pnblications),  713 

Oliphant,  L.,  Episodes  in  a  Life  of  Ad- 
venture (New  Publications),  590 

Haifa,  or  Life  in  Modem  Pales- 
tine (New  Publications),  316 

Ommanney,  Sir  Erasmus,  and  the  Ans- 
tralian  Antarctic  Expedition,  576,  622 

Omsk  Military-Topographical  Depart- 
ment, 436 

O'Neill,  H.  E.,  Journeys  in  the  District 
of  Delagoa  Bay,  Dec  1886-Jan.  1887, 
497  et  seq, 

Ontario,  Indexed  County  Map  and  Ship- 
per's Guide  of  (New  Maps),  724 

Opi  or  Werre  river,  292 

Oppel,  Dr.  A.,  Die  religiosen  Yerhaltnisse 
von  Africa  (New  Publications),  715 

Oppler,  Dr.  A.,  on  Acclimatisation,  690 

Ordnance  Maps,  On  some  defects  of  tbe, 
by  Spenser  Wilkinson,  702 

Survey  Maps  (New  Maps),  63, 

137,  210,  265,  327,  395,  464,  527,  592, 
655,  723,  787 

Extracts  from  a  Paper 


on  the  Utilisation  of  the,  by  Sir  C.Wilaon 
(New  Publications),  786 

On   the  Utilisation  of 


the,  by  Sir  Charles  Wilson,  704 
Ordos  or  Ortus  desert,  233 
Orientaux,  Nouveaux  Melanges.  Memoires, 
Textes  et  Traductions  (New  Publica- 
tions), 324 
Orinico,  M.  Chaffiinjon's  expedition  to  the 

sources  of  the,  204,  255,  456 
Orokolo,  New  Guinea,  77 
Oshima  Island  volcano,  Japan,  93 
Otomf  tribe,  Yera  Cruz,  568,  570 
Oudjda,  De  Fez  1^  by  M.  de  Chavagnao 

(New  Publications),  779 
O-Wassa,  Biount,  628 


Owen  Stanley  Range,  New  Guinea,  ascent 
of  the,  by  0.  H.  Hartmann  and  G. 
Hunter,  621,  767 

. Go- 


vernment 
the,  305 


of   Yictoria's  expedition  to 


Mr. 

Cuthbertson's  ascent  of  Mount  Obree  in 
tbe,  758 

Oxford  and  Cambridge,  Report  of  tbe 
Committee  on  the  Study  of  Geography 
at,  698 

—  Universities,  Con- 
ferences on  the  establishment  of  a 
Readership  of  Geography  at  the,  188 

-R.G.S.'8 


proposals  for  establishment  of  lecturers 
on  geography  at  the,  333,  334 

appointment  of  H.  J.  Mackinder 


as  Reader  of  Geograpliy  at,  437 

Local  Examinations,    awards   of 


Geographical  Prize  Medals,  454 
University,    establishment   of   a 

Readership  of  Geography  at,  239,  254 
Extension    Lectures 


for  1887-8,  681 


Padao  town,  33 

Pai-shan,  Mount,  543,  544 

Pajot,  E.,  Simples  Renseignements  snr 
rile  Bourbon  (New  Publications),  520 

Palcazu  river,  505 

Palena  river.  Chili,  580 

Palestine,  Pictsrial  Map  of,  giving  a 
bird*8-eye  view  of  the  Holy  Land,  &o., 
by  F.  H.  Wood  (New  Maps),  268 

Pilgrims*  Text  Society  (New 


PublicaUons),  323 

Tbe  Monumental  History  of, 


Syrian  Stone-lore ;  or,  by  C.  R.  Conder 
(New  Publications),  259 

Palgrave,  Mary  E.,  Pictorial  C^eography  of 
the  British  Isles  (New  Publications), 
711 

W.  G.,  Ulysses;  or  Scenes  and 

Studies  in  many  Lands  (New  Publica- 
tions), 784 

Palorabe  river,  43 

P4mir,  The  Dragon  Lake  of,  by  Major- 
General  Sir  Henry  Rawlinson,  69       , 

Panama,  Le  Canal  de,  en  1886.  Rapport 
presents  par  M.  J.  Ch.  Roux  (New 
Publications),  321 

Panouse,  Yicomte  E.  de  la,  travels  in 
South  Africa,  127 

Paraguayan  Treasure,  A,  the  Search  and 
Discovery,  by  A.  F.  Baillie  (New  Pub- 
lications), 520 

Pardoux,  M.  N.,  explorations  of  the 
Mekong  river,  774 

Pariisky,  Captain,  survey  in  the  Zarafshan, 
434 

Paris  Geographical  Society,  award  of 
Medals  of  the,  255 


816 


INDEX. 


Pflrifl  Geogmpbica!  Society,  presentation 
ofMedftldof,  :i8l> 

^' Proceeding* 

of  tlie»  Kovenibc-r  5tli,  1S80,  54 
19th,  1^8II»  55 
December  3rd,  1S86,  127 
ITtiu  ISSB,  128 


Januftiy  lib,  ISSl,  202 

2lBt,  1887.  203 

^  February  4tb,  1887.  254 

"^ — ^  ' — — ISth,  1887,  256 

Miiich  -lib,  1SS7,  'dYl 


18th,  IS87,  312 


■  April  1st,  lgh7,  388 

15th,  1887,  389 

'  Blay  (Jth,  l&87t  456 
20tb,  1887,  457 


^  June  3rd,  1887,513 
-^—  17th,  1H87»5U 
.  November  4tb,  1B87»  774 


Paris,  Nouveaii  Piiiu  de  (New  Maps),  ^3 

Passarge,  Louie,  AuB  Baltisdien  Laudeu 
(New  Publit"«tioiiii)»  526 

Pfttftgouia,  Lion  tenant  A.  del  Castillo's 
journey  in,  512 

Litutcnftiit  0.  Moyauo's  ex- 
plorations ill,  384 

Patkoi  Pasa,  41 

Paula,  Holy,  The  Pilgrimage  of  the,  by 
St.  Jerome.  Tranabted  by  A.  Stewart, 
and  annotated  by  Sir  C.  W.  Wilson, 
PilesUnft  Pilgrima*  Text  Society  (New 
PuMicfttiuii»),  323 

pRvlov,     Mount,     Aluakft,    eruption    of. 

Pa-yen -Bhu'fihn  town,  Manpburiftj  236 
Payne,  J.  A..,   Lagoa   and  West  African 

Almanack  nnd  Diary  for  1887  (Now 

PiibiiofilioBB),  4 HO 
Paz  Bold  an,  Don  Mariano  Ft;lipe,  Obituary 

of,  386 
Peacock,  D.  R.^  Original  VocabularieB  of 

five  West  Cancasian  Lan^uagea  (New 

PuMicaliouB),  205 
Peek,  Rev.  E,  J.^  Journey  acroBs  Labrailor. 

192 
Ptiking,  iTOpnlidion  of,  57 
Ptnick,  Dr.  Aibreebt,  Popera  on  Phyflical 

Oeogmphy  (New  Publication s),  652 
— Professor  Dr.  A.,   GeographiBeho 

Abbandlnngen,      bemus>;e  Ziehen      von 

(New  Publieationfl),  129,  709 
Penny,  Rev.  A,,  Ten  Years  in  Melanesia 

(New  Publications),  523 
Perrier,  General,  on  the  artesian  wella  and 

oases  in  Ued  Rir,  254 
Perrin,   F.,  Coolidge,  W,  A,  B^  and  H. 

Dubamei,   Guide    du     Haut- Dauphin^ 

(New  PublicationH),  710 
Perrott,  Major  Sir   Herbert,   A   Note    oa 

Houghton,  the  African  Explorer,  693 
Persia  aud   the  Persians,   by   S.   G.   W, 

Benjamin  (New  Tubli cations),  205 
A»  It  I«,  by  C.  J.  Wills  (Now  Publi- 

cationa),  131 
Pern,  Nuevo  Atlas  Qcografioo  del  (Now 

Mape),  790 


Petermann's  •  Geographifidlitt 

gen,'  Indexhcft  (New  Mops),  62  ' 
Petera,  Dr.  K.,  490 
Peterflbiihe,  493 
Petberick,  E.  A.,  Catalogue  of  the  York 

Gate   Library,  formed    by  Mr.   Silvtr 

(New  Pnblicutiona),  134 
PetitL^t,  E.,  Lea  Gmnds  Ksqiiimanx  (New 

PublicatioDB),  650 
Petter^eii,  Dr,  Karl,  on  the  weather  in  the 

Arctic  SeaB,  683 
Pe-tun-lio-tzu  town,  Manebnria,  236 
Pfeil,  County  journeyti  in  East  Africa,  47# 

340 

-*  treaties  in  East  Africa,  4^2 

Philip,  G.,  *k  Son,  Handy- volume  AtlBiS  of 

the  Werld  (New  Map.H),  466 
PhilippsoD,  Alfred,  Studien  uber  Wasser- 

scheiden  (New  Publications),  61 
PMlipn*    BevoMug    Planisphere    (New 

Maps),  68 
Pbilp  river,  598 
Phccnix,  I  he,  683 
Fhysiogranjiy,  Outlines  of.  The  MoTemeots 

of  the  Earth,  by  J.  Noramn  Locfcyer 

(New  PublicfltionB),  720 
Pint,  A.,  Porte  de  Guerre  ^  Cabourg  (New 

Publications),  517 
Piclian  fort,  748 
Piohia  river,  507 
Pierce,  Jo&iab,  On  the  United  States  Greo- 

graphieal  and  Geological  Survey,  704 
Pikrjmayo  river,  Captain  Ft^mandez*B  ex* 

pi  orations   of   the    tributaries    of  the, 

581 
Piltan,  Lake,  and  Plain  of  Stone,  562 
Pinart.  M.  A,,  on  the  State  of  Panania,  M 
Finiciealia  town,  and  river  Sail  Paulo,  109, 

110 
Plogemann,  Dr.  A.,  explomtionB  in   tho 

Yalley  of  the  CaehaiMiul,  248 
Planiflpbore,    Philips*    Bevolring    (New 

Maps),  68 
Play  fair.    Sir   Ijambert,    Handbook     fbr 

Truveilers  in  Algeria  and  Tunis  (New 

Publictitiona),  206 
Pleignenr,  Captain,  death  of,  775 
Poirier,  M.  Leon,  sum  bequeathed  to  Porifi 

Geographical  Society,  54 
Fola,    fioino    Veri^Angenheit,    Gegenwart 

und  Zuknnft  (New  Publications),  712 
Polar    Obaervftlion^,  International  (New 

Publieatioiis),  263,  522 
ttLgions,  St  con  d  Report  of  a  Gom- 

mitteo  far  inquiring  into  the  Depth  of 

Permanently   Frozen   Soil  in    the,    by 

General  Sir  J.  H.  Lefroy,  769  et  seq. 
— Stars,  a  Catalogue  of  130,  for  the 

epoch  of  1875.0,  by  W.  A,  Eogers  and 

A.  Win  lock  (New  Publications),  525 
Pelen,   Haiidkarten    von  Rn^isch   (New 

Maps),  137 
Poltoratski,  M,,  423 
Polu  and  Budokh,  Road  between,  782 
Polyuesiim,  East  aud  West,  Malay,  &c.,  A 

Comparison  of  the  Dialects  of,  by  Eev.  G. 

Pratt  (New  Publications),  522 


INDEX. 


817 


Ponel,  M.  E.,  journeys  in  the  Congo  basin, 

514 
Popoloco  tribe,  Vera  Cruz,  568,  570 
Population  of   tho    Earth,    by  Prof.    E. 

Lcvasseur,  763 
Poroai  lagoon.  New  Guinea,  72 
Porphyry  Quarries  of  Egypt,  account  of  a 

recent  visit  to  the  ancient,  by  W.  Brind- 

ley,  692 
Porto  de  Len^oes  village,  112 
Potanin,  G.  N.,  431 

-  expedition  in  Central  Asia,  424 


442 


—  journey  across  the  Desert  of  Gobi, 
-  progress  of  expedition  of,  54 


Potanin's  Journey  in  iMorth-westem  China 
and  Eastern  Tibet,  233 

Potsdam,  Specialkarte  des  Begicrungs- 
Bezirks  (New  Maps),  327 

Prag,  Pkn  von,  uiid  TJmgebung,  von  A. 
Hurtig  (New  Maps).  592 

Pratt,  Rev.  G.,  A  Comparison  of  the  Dia- 
lects of  Best  and  West  Polynesian, 
Malay,  &c.  (New  Publications),  522 

Prejevalsky,  Colonel,  publication  of  results 
of  the  recent  journey  in  Central  Asia 
by,  50 

Prejevalsky's  Journeys  and  Discoveries  in 
Central  Asia,  by  £.  Delmar  Morgan, 
213  et  seq. 

Preussisohen  Geodatisohen  Instituts,  Yer- 
offentlichung  des  Konigl.  Heft  I.  (New 
Publications),  57 

Prince  William  Sound,  Alaska,  277 

Principe,  Carta  da  Ilha  do  (New  Maps), 
211 

Procopius,  On  the  Buildings  of  Justinian, 
by.  Translated  by  A.  Stewart,  and  an- 
notated by  Sir  C.  W.  Wilson.  Pidestine 
Pilgrimfl'  Text  Society  (New  Publica- 
tions), 323 

Publications  of  R.G.S..  Report  of,  449 

Puerto  Rico,  Map  Topogrdfico  de  la  Isla 
de  (New  Maps),  65 

Pumpelly,  R.,  Report  on  the  Mining  In- 
dustries of  the  United  States,  &c.  (New 
Publications),  522 

Pungue  river,  622 

Punjab  and  its  Rivers,  On  Probable 
Changes  in  the  Geography  of  the,  by 
R.  D.  Oldham  (New  Publications),  713 

Pyrard  of  Laval,  F.,  The  Voyage  of, 
translated  by  A.  Gray  (New  Publica- 
tions), 590 

Pyrenees,  Orography  of  the,  M.  Sohrader 
on  the,  685 

Q. 

QuAiPO  natives.  New  Guinea,  73 

Quango  river,  Mr.  GrenfelFs  explorations 
of  the,  239 

Quatrefages,  M.  A.  de,  on  Acclimatisation, 
691 

Queen's  Highway  from  Ocean  to  Ocean, 
The,  by  C.  Cumberknd  (New  Publica- 
tions), 520 


Queensland,  Geographical  Map  of,  by  R.  L. 

Jack  (New  Maps),  598 

Map  of  (New  Maps),  05 

illustrating  its  mineral 

and  other  productive  capabilities  (New 

Maps),  267 

Report   on    the    Argentine 


(Star)  Silver  Mines,  Kennedy  District, 
by  R.  L.  Jack  (New  Publications),  589 
•  Report  on  the  Geology  and 


Mineral  Resources  of  the  Districts  of 
KilMvan  and  Black  Snake  (New  Publi- 
cations), 59 

R. 

Radford,  A.,  Jottings  on  tho  West  Indies 

and  Panama  (New  Publications),  461 
Radiolarian  slate,  Japan,  89 
Rae,  Dr.  J.,  on  Depth  of  Frozen  Soil  in  the 

Polar  Regions,  773 
Raian  Ain,  Tho  Desert  from  Dakshur  to, 

by  Captain  C.  Surtees,  613 
Moeris,  The,  or  Storage  Reservoir  of 

Middle  Egypt,  by  Cope  Whitehouse,  608 

et  seq, 

■  Project,    Feasibility    of   the,    by 


Colonel  Ardagh,  613 
Ramon -Listu,  M.,    expedition  in  Ticrra 

del  Fuego,  456 
Rang-Kul  lake,  69 

Ravcnstein,  E.  G.,  A  Plea  for  the  Meter,  705 
on  Diogo  Cao's  "Padrao"  at 

the  mouth  of  the  Congo,  690  note 

remarks  on  the  Teaching  of 


Geography  at  the  Universities,  700 

-  remarks  on  Between  the  Nile 


and  the  Congo:   Dr.  Junker  and  the 
(WeUe)  Makua,  303 

L.,    Karte    der    Salzburger 


Alpen,  und  des  Salzkammerguts  (Now 
Maps),  592 

Raverty,  Major,  letter  from,  on  the  Band-i- 
Amir  Lakes  and  Moore's  Bcndemeer, 
252 

Rawlinson,  Sir  H.,  remarks  on  the  Annual 
Address,  455 

remarks  on  the  Islands  of  the 

Now  Britain  Group,  15,  18 

Tlie  Dragon  Lake  of  Pamir,  69 

Rawson,  Sir  Rawson,  remarks  on  Explora- 
tions in  South-eastern  New  Guinea,  85 

Reade,  T.  M.,  The  Origin  of  Mountain 
Ranges,  considered  experimentally,  &c., 
and  in  relation  to  their  geological  history 
(New  Publications),  652 

Reclus,  Elisec,  The  Earth,  a  descriptive 
History  of  the  Phenomena  of  the  Life  of 
the  Globe ;  and  The  Ocean,  Atmosphere 
and  Life,  edited  by  Prof.  Keane  piTew 
Publications),  263 

Red  Sea  Ports,  Report  of  a  Journey  to  the, 
Somali-land,  and  Southern  and  Eastern 
Arabia,  by  Major-General  F.  T.  Haig 
(New  Publications),  649 

Trade.  The,  by  A.  B.  Wylde,  691 

Regis,  P^re,  546 


818 


INDEX. 


Beikiftvikfjordt  ice  off  the,  684 

Keiii,  Prnt  J.  J.,  Japjm  uncb  Reisen  tind 
Htudien,  im  Auftrage  tier  K,  Preu>&lschcii 
RegleruDg  dargcBtellt  (New  Publica- 
tions), 130 

Eeitcr,  Dr.  H.,  Did  Biklpolarfmjre  und  Uitq 
Bc'deuhiU]^  fiir  die  gerietische  Glied^-rung 
dor  Erdoliriliicho  (New  Publications), 

Eenaud,  M.,  on  the  Ixorboura  of  Tonking^ 

255 
Rfcunion,  LslflTid  of,  Cinclionn  Cultivation 

in  the,  Mr.  8t.  John  on,  578 
Rbeiim,  W.,  letter  from,  on  tho  Teaching 

a  f  ti  cogra  plj  y ,  121 
Kiba-Biba  vilhife-*?,  49 
Bibero,  Diego,  The  2iid  Borjj:ian  Map  by, 

Teprotiuced  by  W*  Griggs  (New  BIai>fl),  tj2 
Riclmrdfinn,  Sit  John^  on  Depth  t>f  Frozen 

Soil  at  York  Factory,  77 J,  772 
Rijckcvwrafel,  Dr.  van,  jonmey  in  Sumatra, 

128 
Eiley,  AtJielHtan,  Athos,  or  the  MonntaiQ 

of' the  Monks  (New  PublicfltinDs),  517 
Kitter*  Cnrl,  Gegehiohte  dor  Enlkiuide  und 

der  Eiitdeckungeii  (New  PublicatiuUB), 

B — N.,  native  fiurvfyor,  exploratioiiB  in 
Control  Asia,  342,  343 

Eoberte,  M.,  The  %Vefltem  Avenues,  or 
Tuil  and  Travel  in  Further  North 
America  (New  Piiblicalinnft),  4G1 

Robltihon,  Sir  W.C.  F.,  The  Physical  Geo- 
grtiphy  of  the  South-wetit  of  Western 
AimtraliiL  (New  Publication b),  59 

Koblet,  Pile  D.,  The  Environs  of  Antana- 
narivo (New  Mfipji),  139 

EodrignoH,  M,,  on  the  river  Jnnpery,  54 

iiognrB,  W.  A,,  and  A.  Winlot^k,  A  Ckta- 
logne  of  130  Polar  Slara  for  the  epoch 
of  1875.0  (New  Puhlieatione)»  525 

Ilohlfs,  G„  Quid  Novi  Ex  Afnca?  (New 
pQblicatinns),  201 

Rolland,  M,  G.,  on  Jhe  geolo;^y  of  Lake 
Kelbia  region  and  Central  Tunis,  31'ji 

Iteman  Empire,  The  Provinces  of  the,  from 
Ca^ar  to  DiocleiiRn,  by  T.  MommBen, 
t  ran  slated  by  W.  T.  Dickson  (New 
I'ublicatiouB),  263 

Eomilly,  H.  H.,  Tho  Iskuda  of  the  Now 
Britain  Group,  1  rt  se^f, 

Ho&cy,  E.  de,  Lesj  AntillcB  (New  Publica- 
tions), 134 

Les  ReligiouB  dc  I'Extr^me  Orient 

(New  Publicationa),  721 

Rc«a,  Mr.,  on  the  location  of  Odoll,  567 

Robtcck,  Environs  de^  par  V.  A.  Malte- 
Rrun  (New  Mapa),  463 

Eoumanie,  Annates  de  rinstitut  Mete'oro- 
logique  de^  par  S.  C.  Hepites,  Directeur 
(New  Publications),  258 

Roumauion.  by  R.  Ber^ner  (New  Publica- 
lion»),  517 

Ronvier,  Captain,  Astronomical  Obserra' 
tious  to  lix  Posiliona  on  tht*  Congo,  189 

— — — -  Carte  dn  Congo  Fmn^aiji  (Now 
Mops),  724 


Bonirier,  Ceptaio,  expedition  in  the  Congo 
regions,  3ai> 

Pari  a  Geographical  Society's  GoM 

Medal  awarded  tn,  255 

Ruux,  M.  J.  Ch,^  Lo  Cauiil  do  PanaiDft  en 
188G,  rapport  presenle  par  (New  Pub- 
lications), 321 

Rudnef,  M.,  expedition  in  Eastern  Bok- 
hara, 433,  434 

Rudnkh  uud  Polu,  rosd  between,  732 

Kumbold,  Sir  11.,  The  Great  Silver  Ulver; 
Notea  of  a  Reside  ace  in  Buenos  Ay  res  < 
(Now  Piiblicatioijs),  520 

Rundle,  Blajor,  G73 

RuBiafa  route,  0li3,  6G4 

Kuai^ell,  H.  C,  Re^^iilta  of  Meteorologrical 
tJbservatioDd  made  in  New  Sooth  Wules 
(New  Publiciitiona),  718 

L   tVik,  Geological   History   of 

Lake  Lcilkoiitan,  North-western  Nevadbit. 
United  States  Geographicat  Surrey 
(New  Publications),  321 

RuBsiu,  Poland,  and  Fitihind,  Handbook  for 
Triivellerrt  id  (New  Publications),  7t*4 

Russian  expedition  iuto  Central  Asit» 
under  Colonel  Bolyr,  50S 

^~    — = — —  to  the  New  Siberian 

lBlttndi,5J,117,  577 

explomtion   io    Northern    Afiia^ 

progpo»8  of,  50,  54 

— —  Geographical  Society,  *Froeeed- 
iogfl'  of  the  (New  Publictilions),  GO 

^' East  Si- 
berian section  of,  ■  lavestiya  *  of  (New 
Publicalions),  130,  778 

.. East  Si- 
berian Beetion  of,  ^Zapiski*  of  (New 
Publicationa),  182,  778 

— Work  in  1886,  by 

E.  Delmar  Morgan,  423  ct  spq. 

— — roiiiLary     tupographicul      work 

during  188(J,  432 

—^ Polar  Slation  at  the  Mouth  of  the 

Lena  (New  Publications),  522 

Uuiversitie&  institution  of  Chairs 


of  Geography  at,  440 
Russisch-PolcDi   Ilundkarte   von,  von  G. 

0*(irady  (New  Mapi*),  2tJ5 
Russ^land,   Karte    der    Eiienbahnen    dea 

europiiiachcn  (New  Maps),  327 
^  AVest,   General-  und  Btrftsseih' 

karte  von  (New  Maps),  463 
Husalanda,  Die  Etsenhahnen  (New  MapsY 

4t;3 
Ruvuma  river,  468 
Rykiitecbew,   M.,    Ober   den    Auf-    nnd 

Zugang  der  Gewibaer  deis  Rusaisehen 

Reiches  (New  Publications),  458 
Bylke,  S.  D.,  431 

Svf'HSEN,  Geologischen  Spozialkarte  de« 

Ktiuigreich  (New  Maps),  ii55 
SchuIwaDdkartt*    vora     Koai^- 

rtich,  von  K.  Bamberg  (New  MapaL 

592 


INDEX. 


819 


Sachu  town,  Tibet,  747 

Sadija  to  Padao,  route  from,  36 

Sahara,  Western,  M.  Douls'  jonraey  in, 
760 

St.  Elias,  Mount,  Alaska,  height  and  posi- 
tion of,  271,  282 

Mr.  Seton-Karr*8  account 

of,  52 

on  the  position  of,  and 

the  Schwatka  epedition  to  Alaska,  letter 
from  W.  H.  Dall  on,  444 

—  Jerome,  The  Pilgrimage  of  the  Holy 
Paula,  by,  translated  by  A.  Stewart  and 
annotated  by  Sir  0.  W.  Wilson,  Pales- 
tine Pilgrims*  Text  Society  (New  Pub- 
lications), 323 

—  Jolin.  C.  L.,  on  cinchona  cultivation  in 
the  Island  of  Reunion,  578 

—  Kilda  and  the  St.  Kildians,  by  Robert 
Connell  (New  Publications),  392 

Martin,  M.  Vivien  de.  Atlas  Universel 

de  Geograpliio  Modeme,  Ancienne  et 
du  Moyen  Age  (New  Maps),  729 

—  Michael  Island,  Azores,  A  few  Notes 
on  the  ;  and  A  Report  on  the  Artificial 
Uarbbur  of  Ponta  Del^ado,  St  Michaers, 
bv  W.  R.  Kettle  (New  Publications), 
205 

—  Thiago,  Ilha  de,  Piano  hydrographioo 
do  Porto  da  Praia,  Archipelago  de  Cabo 
Verde  (New  Maps),  211 

Saipan,  Island  of,  M.  A.  Marohe's  ex- 
plorations in  the,  759 

Salar  tribe,  234 

Salvadora  Persica,  675 

Salwin  river,  363 

Salzburg,  Mittel  und  Siidbayem,  Nord- 
tyrol  imd,  Reliefkarte  von  (New  Maps), 
655 

Salzburger-Alpen,  Karte  der,  und  des 
SalzkammerKUts,  von  Ludwig  Raven- 
stein  (New  Maps),  592 

Samoa,  My  Consulate  in,  by  W.  B. 
Churchward  (New  Publications),  651 

Sanaa  town,  484 

Sandwich  Islands,  Map  of  the  Hawaiian 
Islands  (New  Maps),  725 

Sandwith,  T.  B.,  observations  on  the 
Forests  of  Tunis,  682 

Sandys,  J.  E.,  An  Easter  Vacation  in 
Greece  (New  Publications),  315 

Sanga  river  as  the  probable  source  of  the 
Lohit  Brahmaputra,  365,  369 

Sang-chu  river,  Tibet,  226 

Sankuru  and  Upper  Kassal,  Explorations 
on  the,  by  Dr.  Ludwig  Wolf,  640  et 
seq, 

San  Paulo,  Brazil,  A  Journey  in  the  Pro- 
vince of,  in  July-September  1885,  by  R. 
F.  Holme,  108  et  seq. 

San-sing,  town  of,  554 

Santo  Ant&o,  Carta  da  Hha  de  (New 
Maps),  593 

Sara-Kamysh  basin,  626 

Sarameti  Mountain,  40 

Sarasin,  Dr.  F.,  on  the  geographical  con- 
ditions of  the  island  of  Ceylon,  391 


Sarat  Chandra  Dras,  Back  Premium 
awarded  to,  311,  454 

Sar-i-Pul  town,  107 

Satow,  E.  M.,  Essay  towards  a  Bibliogra- 
phy of  Siam  (New  Publications),  587 

Sutsuma  province,  Japan,  100 

Saunders-Forster,  C  G.,  Beneath  Parnas- 
sian Clouds  and  Olympian  Sunshine 
(New  Publications),  316 

Saunders,  Trelawny,  remarks  on  some 
defects  of  the  Ordnance  Maps,  708 

Saussure,  M.  De,  281 

Saxaul  shrub  of  Central  Asia,  216 

Scandinavien,  Politische  Wandkarte  von 
(New  Maps),  787 

Scherzer,  Dr.  K.  von.  Die  Wirthschaftliche 
Leben  der  Volker  (New  Publications), 
135 

Schinz,  Dr.  H.,  Durch  Siid-west  Africa 
(New  Publications),  714 

explorations     in    South-western 

Africa,  243,  584 

Schleinitz,  Admiral  von,  and  Dr.  Schrader^ 
Journey  up  the  Empress  Augusta  River, 
German  New  Guinea,  120 

Exploration  of  the  Coast  of 

German  New  Guinea,  809 

Schmidt,  A.,  Meine  Reise  in  Usaramo  nnd 
den  Deutschen  Schutzgebieten  Central- 
Ostafrikas  (New  Publications),  714 

Schneider,  Herr  Oscar,  677 

Schperck,  F.  K.,  431 

Schrader,  M.,  on  the  Orography  of  the 
Pyrenees,  685 

Schrenck,  L.  von,  and  C.  J.  Maximowicz, 
Beitrage  zur  Kenntniss  des  Russischen 
Reiohes  imd  der  angrenzenden  Lander 
Asiens  (New  Publications),  517 

Schiiok,  Capt.  A.,  Magnetic  Observations 
:  on  the  Elbe,  &c.  (New  Publications), 
135 

Schumacher,  G.,  Der  Dscholan  (New  Pub- 
lications), 317 

Schwartz,  M.,  expedition  in  Eastern  Bok- 
hara, 432 

Schwarz,  Dr.  B.,  Eamerun.  Reise  in  dem 
Hinterlando  der  Kolonie  (New  Publi- 
cations), 320 

Schwatka,  Lieut.,  expedition  to  Alaska, 
and  the  position  of  Mount  St  Elias, 
Letter  from  W.  H.  DaU  on,  444 

Schweiz,  Die,  by  Dr.  J.  J  Egli  (New 
Publications),  205 

Reisekarte  der,  von  H.  Keller 

(New  Maps),  655 

Topographischer  Atlas  der  (New 


Maps),  658 

Schwerin,  Baron  von.  Discovery  of  Diogo 
Cam's  memorial  stone  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Congo,  439 

Scientific  Purposes  Grant  of  R.G.S.,  Re- 
port of,  450 

Scotland,  Pocket  Atlas  of,  by  J.  Bartholo- 
mew (New  Maps),  466 

The  Scenery  of,  viewed  in  con- 
nection with  its  Physical  Geology,  by 
A.  GtoiMe  (New  Publioations},  710 


^■^      820                                                                                                                    ^M 

^^^P      Seal  lake,  Labr&dor,  193 

Siberien,  (JeographiuQhft,  ethmigrapbisclio 

^^^^^       8ebanga  river,  301 

nud  historiaohe  Studien,  von  N.  ladrin- 

^^M            )iee\t}\  rrof.  H.  G.,  rcmarka  oii  the  Scope 
^H                and  Methi^ds  of  Geography,  16S 

zew  (New  Fublieniiong},  131 

BibiriakoflT,  J!.,  trade  ruute  to  Siberia,  vlk 

^^H reraarkfl  on  the  TeacliiDg  of  Geo- 

Kara  Sea^  fiSS 

^^^^^           gmpliy  tit  the  Univeraitiea,  700 

SibrLO,  Rev.  J.,  and  Kev.  li.  Bnrotj^  An- 

^^^^^     Seektrang,  Dr.  Arturn,  Atlas  de  U  Hd- 

tananarivo    Annual     and     Madngascaf 

^^^^H         pifblioi    Arg«nMna    roduotuUo    por   el 

Magazine,  No.  X,,  edited  by  (Nuw  Fub- 

^^^H          (New  Mnpe),  72H 

lications),  260 

^^^1      8«gou,  Faul  Soleillet'fl  Voya-e  h,  UlS-70,   i 

Sid  gorge,  665 

^^^^^B          redigi^'  d'apreB  Kb  ootes  et  journatix  de 

Siebengeblrpea,  Uebersichtakarte  de8(Now 

^^^^H          Soldi] et  piir  Gabriel  Gravier  (New  Pab- 

MapB),  3'i7 

^^^^H          licfitiotid),  714 

Sierra  Nevada  do  Santa  Marta,  Beise  in. 

^^^^^K     Btiif  l^louni^  Hiiknif  and  AVcBteni  Paleatmo^ 

by  Dr.  W.  Sievers  (New  Publications), 

^^^H         by  Edward   Hull  (New   Publkaaona), 

521 

^^H 

Siovers,  Dr.  W.,  Heise  in  der  Sierra  Nevada 

^^^H      8«koli-Bonga  rivor,  29S 

d©  SflDta  Marfa  (New  PnblieationH).  521 

^^^^      Selkirk  Settlement  and  tho  Settkrs,  The, 

Siiva  Porto's  Jouruey  fr«>ni  Biite  (Bie)  to 

^H                by  Charles  N.  B<^11  (New  rublioatluDt), 

the  Bakuba  Country,  75 li  et  styj. 

^^r               715 

Si  rag,  A.t    A    Vocabulary  of   Kiban^i,  as 

^^^^^L      Semeonof,    P.^    GeotnupbicheskcKStatisti' 

Bpoken  by   the   B.ibongi  on   tho  Upper 

^^^^H          ohettkii  Sloviu-  Kotisiibkoi  Imperii  (New 

Congo,   from   Kwa   Mouth    to    Liboko 

^^^H           Publications),  523 

(New  Publientions),  133 

^^^H      SemiD,  chief,  2Sd 

A  Vocabulary  of  tho   Kitekc,  as 

^^^^H      ^ —  btalinu,  Ci^ntml  Afrion,  iOS 

Spoken  by  the  Pate ke(lhitio)  and  kindred 

^^^^H       Sempaoh,  Lnke,  depth  of.  i^SG 

tribes  on  tho  Upper  CoDgo  (New  Pub- 

^^^^V     Senegal,  Frcucb  extieditirmH  in  the  Interior 

lications),  58 

^                of»  240 

Sim  aon,  A..  Tmvek  in  the  Wildt^  of  Ecua- 

^^J^        Lea  Explorations  au,  et  dana  les 

dor  and  the  Exploration  of  the  Patumayo 

^^^^^L          Ccmtr^  Yoiflines,  dcpuis  lantiquite  jnS' 
^^^^H          quit  &08  jmirs.  par  J.  Aticelte  (New 
^^^■^          Fublicutions),  317 

liiver  (New  Publications),  321                          H 

Sinclair,  A.  C,  and  L.  li.  Fyfe,  The  Hand-        ^H 

book  of  Janjuica  for  1887-S  (New  Pub-        ^^ 

^^F           progress  of  tho  French  expedi- 

lieationy),  59,  717                                                  1 

^^H                  tioDs  iu  Ibe  interior  of,  500 

Singpho  or  Kakliyen  tribe  and  language,         ^J 

^^m             Seiu^pcftmbie,  Voyage  on,  by  Dr  Boyol  (Kew 

23,24                                                               M 

^^t^            Pyblicaliuns),  779 

SkasM,  A.  I,  481                                                 ^M 

^^^^K       Beton-Korr,  Lieut.,  account  of  Mount  St. 

Sladen,  Colonel  Sir  E.  B.,  remarks  on  the        ^H 

^^^H          EUofi,  52 

Lu  River  of  Tibet  &(^,,  372                              ^H 

^^^^^ remarka  on  the  Alpine  Regiona 

Suieaton,    D.   M.,  The  Loyal   Kurens  of        ^ 

^V                of  Aloi^ka,  285 

Burma  (New  Publieatian^),  206 

Smith,  Agnes,  Through  Cypru»(New  Pub- 

^^^^^^^^                                                 XU.U  ^rxipiliU  Xltr^lvUO  VI  JX  Hl3ii|f| 

^^^B           269  ei  teq. 

iicationa),  392 

^^^H      Sextant,  Manual  of  the,  by  C.  M.  Thomp- 

George,    Fifty  Yeors   of  Foreign 

^^^H          aon  (Ka^  Publication^),' 74^5 

Missions,  &c.  (New  Publicationg),  62 

^^^^H       SeydJsljord,  iee  in  the,  G84 

a  pjrwf^„  Tlifi  FniTTtfnii  nf  Tamwera 

^^^^"       ShoKshau,  Central  Asia,  217  nott^ 

(New  PublicationB),  716 

^^V            Shadwelh  »^ir  Cliarlcs,  Memorml  to  tho 

Smithsoninn  In6titution»  Annual  Report  of 

^H                 late*  764 

the  Board  €f  Regents  of  the  (Nvw  Pub- 

^H             Shah  Yar  town,  735 

lications).  589                                                    ^H 

^B              Shaib,  Jebeh  078 

Sokoto,  Herr  Staudingei's  journey  to,  256          ^H 

^^H             Shaler,  Prof.,  ob^er  nations  on  the  rivers  of 

Jle^ra.  Stnudtingcr  and  IIartert*8              V 

^H                 New  England,  247 

visit  to,  306                                                               1 

^H             Shnri  river,  208,  299 

Soleillet,  Paul,  Voyage  h  Segou  1878-79,               1 

^^H             Shichito  Cbain,  Jai>an,  88 

redige  d'apjis   les   notee   et   joumaux               I 

^^^^^       Shinano  Uida  Kan  go,  Japan,  94 

de  SoleiUet,  par  Gabriel  Gravier  (New         ^^J 

^^^^H       Shinko  or  Paperwt  r  rivor.,  292 

Publtcations),  7H                                             ^H 

^^^^^f      Shirwo,  LEike,  diHoovery  of  uew  lake  south* 

Solomon  Islands,  16                                            ^^H 

^                east  of,  439 

, The,  and  their  Natives,               V 

^^B              tribe  (Nguru  or  Nyanjtt),  115 

by  H.  P.  Guppy  (New  Publications),              M 

^H             Shkara,  Mount,  767 

782                                                                  ^J 

^^M            Siam,  Eaaay  towards  a  Bibliogmphy  of,  by 

Solon  Manehns,  554                                           ^^H 

^^^_           £.  M.  Satow  (N^w  Pub  I  i  rati  on  b),  ^^ 

Soyanx,  Herr,  686                                             ^^B 

^^^H      Siberia,  Eaatero,  M.  J.  Martin'^  expedition^ 

Speeding,  W.  C,  Route  Survey  through               1 

^^V 

the  YonihA  Country  (New  M-ips),  529                  ■ 

Spitzberg  au   Sahara,  Dn»    Btapes    d'on               1 

—  J 

^^^^F                              ifUu   umue  ruuto  wtf  via  ivcua  ovof 

^H                   683 

Katuraliste  an  Spit^berg,   iko,,  by  0,              J 

^H              Siberian  lokea,  the  doBiccation  of  the,  51 

INDEX. 


821 


Spitzbergen,  Dr.  Knckenthal's  explorations 
in,  515 

Ssan<::a,  position  of,  315 

Stanford,  E.,  London  Atlas  of  Universal 
Geography  (New  Maps),  530, 729 

Stanhope  river,  602 

Stanley,  Mr.,  expedition  for  the  relief  of 
Emin  Pasha,  47,  114, 126,  202,  584,  759, 
765 

Pool,  Arab  insarrection  at,  312 

Stanovol  Range,  Siberia,  379 

Stapff,  Dr.,  explorations  in  the  Coast  region 
of  South-western  Africa,  511 

on  the  geology  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Walfish  Bay,  57 

-  F.  M.,  Originalkarte  des  Unteren 


Ehuiseb  Thales  (New  Maps),  529 

Stauber,  Herr  Anton,  250 

Stand  ingcr  and  Hartert,  Messrs.,  visit  to 
Sokoto,  306 

Herr,joumey  to  Sokoto,  256 

SteainA,  W.  J.,  The  Valley  of  the  Rio  Doce, 
702 

Steinen,  Dr.  K.  von  den,  Durch  Ontral- 
Brasilien  (New  Publications),  208 

further  explora- 
tions of  the  Xingu  river,  Brazil,  193 

-and  Herr W., and 


Dr.  0.  Glaus'  expedition  in  Brazil,  345 
Stephen,  Leslie,  Dictionary  of  National 

Biography  (New  Publications),  135,323, 

525 
Stevens,  Henry,  and  Sir  Q.  Birdwood,  The 

Dawn  of  British  Trade  to  India  (New 

Publications),  130 
J.,  Around  the  World  on  a  Bi- 
cycle (New  Publications),  525 
Stieng,  Dictionnaire,  by  H.  Azdmar  (New 

Publications),  587 
Stock,  E.,  remarks   on   Explorations   in 

Central  Africa,  417 
Stone,  General  C.  M.  P.,  333 
Stothert,  Mr.,  remiirks  on  some  defects  of 

the  Ordnance  Maps,  703 
Strachey,  General,  Annual  Address  on  the 

Progress  of  Geography,  331  tf*  seq, 
Address    on    opening   Session 

1887-88.  765  et  $eq. 

•  Letter  from,  to  Sir  Graham  Berry 


on  the  proposed  Antarctic  Expedition, 
757 

remarks  on  a  journey  through 


Yemen,  490 


churia,  567 


-  a  journey  in  Man- 


768 


-  Explorations  in  Siam, 
Explorations      in 


South-eastern  New  Guinea,  86 

Prejevalsky's  Jour- 


neys and  Discoveries  in  Central  Asia,  231 
Presentation        of 


Medals,  452,  453 


-  the  Expedition  from 
Upper  Assam  to  the  Irawadi,  &o.,  41 

-  the  Lu  river  of  Tibet, 


&c.,376 


Strachey,  General,  remarks  on  the  Scope 
and  Methods  of  Geography,  174 

the  Society's 

Expedition  to  the  Namuli  Hills,  478 

Straits  Settlements,  Report  on  the  Forest 
Department  for  1886,  by  N.  Cantley 
(New  Publications),  648 

Straube,  J.,  Neuesten  Plan  von  Miinchen 
(New  Maps),  655 

Streeter,  G.  Skelton,  The  Ruby  Mines  of 
Burma,  701 

Struve,  H.,  Landkarten,  ihre  Herstellung 
und  ihre  Fehlergrenzcn  (New  Publica- 
tions), 721 

Suai  lake,  627 

Suakin  und  Kassala,  Die  Earawanen- 
strassen  zwischen,  nach  Itinerar-Auf- 
nahmen  von  J.  Menges,  gezeichnet  von 
C.  Barich  (New  Maps),  397 

Sudan,  Diario  Storioo  Militaire  delle 
Rivolte  al,  dal  1878  in  poi,  by  Q.  B. 
Messedaglia  (New  Publications),  261 

Suez  Canal  and  El  Arish,  country  between 
the,  585 

Sugu-nor  Lake,  442 

Sumatra,  Central,  Rapport  uber  eine  im 
Dezember  1883  untemommene  wissen- 
schaftliche  Reise  an  den  Lobo-See,  von 
Dr.  B.  Hagen  (New  Publications),  713 

Dr.  van  Rijckevorsel's  journey 

in,  128 

Kaart   van   het    Eiland   (New 

Maps).  267 

Sungari  river,  533,  548 

Sung  Ho  river,  547 

Sung-pang-ting,  234,  235 

Supan,  A.,  Landwirtschaftskarte  und  Li- 
dustriekarte  der  Yereinigten  Staaten 
und  von  Canada  (New  Maps),  65 

on  thH  (^mate  of  Europe  as  regards 

the  duration  of  a  certain  mean  tempera- 
ture in  different  areas,  441 

•  on  the  Climates  of  the  Globe,  768 


Surinam,  scin  Land,  seine  Natur,  Bevol- 
kerung  und  seine  Eultnr-Yerh'altnisse, 
mit  Bezug  auf  Eolonisation,  von  A« 
Kappler  (New  Publications),  133 

Sverige,  Norge  och  Danmark,  General 
Karta  ofver  (New  Maps),  327 

Swazi  country,  gold  mines  of  the,  502 

Swedish  antarctic  expedition,  proposed,  309 

Swiss  lakes,  depth  of,  Herr  J.  Komliman 
on  the,  686 

Switzerland,  A  Handbook  for  Travellers 
in,  the  Alps  of  Savoy  and  Piedmont,  the 
Italian  lakes,  and  paxt  of  Dauphine'  (New 
Publications),  130 

Syr-daria  region,  reconnaissance  of  the, 
435 

Syria,  Description  of.  including  Palestine,  « 
by    Mukaddasi,    translated    from    the 
Arabic  and  annotated  by  Guy  le  Strange, 
Palestine  Pilgrims'  Text  Society  (New 
Publications),  323 

Syrian  Stone-Lore;  or  the  Monumental 
History  of  Palestine,  by  0.  R.  Oonder 
(New  Publications),  259 


822 


INDEX. 


Takhta-Kaeacha  Pnag,  245 
Tiilbot,  Captain,  Afghan  Burveyg,  574 
titid  CfkpLtiiu  MaiilEiiid,  JourDcys  in 

Afghan  istnn,  102  ei  scq, 
TiiDganika-See  nnd  dvm  Luilnba,  Dr,  R. 

Bolim'a  und   P.   Richard's    Routenrmf- 

nahmcn  zwiachen  den  (New  Mnpa),  328 
Taot^rjyikfl,  L(ike>  and  ZanzibnrT  monthly 

mail  catablifihed  botwceu*  114 
^ ~ — -  ^ To,  in  a  Brttli  Chair,  by 

Annie  R*  Hor^  (New  Publieationfl),  68 
Tangld  Rimge,  Tibet,  225  note 
Tanner,  Prof.  Henry,  Bridsh  Colombiu: 

it^  Agricultuml  aud  Commercial  Capa- 

bilitica  {N(5w  FublictJiti^ns)^  717 
Tapochan  peak,  lishind  of  8aipaii^  75D 
Tappenbeck,  Lieiittroant,  journey  down  tho 

liken je  river,  115 
Tamwera,  The  Eruption  of,  by  S.  Percy 

Smith  (New  Publications),  718 
'         Volcano,  New  Zi aland,  PLin  of 

the  Seat  of  Eruption,  10th  June,  188C 

(Hvw  Maps),  -m 
Tarirn  river,  Tibet,  230,  73G 

^^.,  country  along  the,  176 

Tn^hkurgheu  town,  105 

Tosman,  Abel  Jari^zoon,  door  Jlr.  Ch.  M. 

Dozy  (New  Publieations),  324 
Tateyama  Mountain,  Japan,  &i 
Tali  golti-lield,  093 
Tau-kiim  sauiia,  river  Hi,  426  noi« 
Tavek-k*fhl  oasis,  221) 
Tcheniiclitv,  M.,  Imro  metrical  observationB 

in  the  Ural  MouatainK,  54 
Tcher^ky,    M.,    gcolu^ieal    map   of    tho 

borders!  of  Lnke  Biiikal,  51 
T-chet  Bdtii  Mountain,  Hi 
Tchibrttchef,    P.    de,    Klein-A^ien   (New 

Publicftlions),  519 
Technical,  Industrial,  and  Trade  Educa- 
tion, by  John  Yeats  (Now  Publications), 

721 
Tedjend  district,  eurvcvs  in  the,  436 
Ti'ktiliof,  P.,  431 
Tern  by  drift-ronle  to  the  Trail  STaal,  4&7, 

601 
Tensple  Mountain,  Spitzbexgen,  516 
Sir    Richard,    JonrnalB    kept    in 

Hyderabad,  Kashmir,  Sikklm,  and  Ne>pal 

(New  PuMiciitiuns),  393 
Tepehua  tribe,  Vem  Cruz,  56S,  570 
Terre  de  feu,   Carte  ethnographiiiue  de 

Parch ipel  dc  la  (New  Ma^ks),  464 
Tetnnld  Monntain,  617,  767 
Thoal,  G.  McCalJ.  Hihterv  of  tke  Boera  in 

South  Africa  (New  Publicatioufl),  588 
Thian  Shan  Range,  flora  of,  428 
Thomafl,  A,,  Etymolc^giachea  WtJrlerbncb 

Geograpbischer  Namon  (Hew  Pnblica- 

tiona),  324 
Thompson,  V.  M.,  Manual  of  tho  Sextant, 

&c.  (New  Publications),  785 
Thnmson,  ,Toaeph,  lemarka  on  the  Soeiety'i 

Expedition  to  the  Natnnli  Hilk,  478 


Thomson,  the  late  Sir  C.  Wyville,  and  Jobm 

Murmy,  Report  on  the  ScicntiJic  Results 

of   the   Voyage    of    H.M.S.   CfmllenQer^ 

prepared  under  !be  anperintendenee  of 

(New  Publicjilions),  324,  720 
Thorpe,  Blrs,,  The  Balkan  Peninsula,  by 

Emilo  Do  Laveleye,  translated  by  (New 

Puhlicatjona),  315 
Thoxiar,   M.   A.,   progress   of  journey   in 

South  Ameriea,  55,  388 
Tboukt,  M.  J.,  Observations  on  the  Outf- 

Stream,  762 
^ voyage  along  the  coosta  of  New- 
foundland, 256 
TliuillJer,  General  Sir  H.,  remarks  on  tho 

Utilisation  of  the  Ordnance  Survey,  704 
Thum,  Everard  F.  ira,  VL«it  of  the  Go- 
vernor to  the  Pomeroon  District  (Kow 

Publications),  717 
Thyra,  the,  684 
Tibet,  A  Journey  round  Chinese  TnrkiatiLn* 

and  olong  the  Northern  Frontier  of,  by 

A.  D.  Carey,  731  li  *<  /. 
Tibet,  climate,  flora,  und  fauna  of,  222,  223 
— —  Eastern,  and  North-western  ChmOf 

Potanin's  Journey  in,  233 

Prejevaisky's  Journeyi  in,  221  H  scq, 

»  the  Lamas,  survey  of,  354,  366 
The  Lu  River  of  J  is  it  the  source  of 

the  Irawadi  or  the  Salwin?  by  General 

J.  T.  Walker,  352  et  uq. 
Tierra  del  Fuego,  M.  Ramon  Lista'e  expe- 
dition to,  384 
Tietii  river,  109,  110 
Tillo,  Major-Genera!  A.  Ton,  estimates  of 

the  longest  rivers  in  the  world,  120 

on  the  climates  of  tlio  globe,  763 

on  the  great  waterabeds  of  the  globe, 

310 
Timbuktu,  M.  G.  Angelica  new  route  to» 

623 
Tirol,  Distanz-  und  Reisekarte  von,  tou 

J*  Meurer  (New  Maps),  526 
Toll,  Baron  von,  and  Dr.  Bunjje,  explora- 

tiona  in  the  New  Sibeiiaii  Islandis,  51, 

177,  577 
Tomaschek,  W.,  Znr  Kunde  der  Hamoa^ 

Halbinsel  (New  Publications),  712 
Tonking,  the  harbours  of,  M.  Henaixd  on, 

255 
Tosa  province,  Japan,  98 
To  tern  ism,  by  J.  G.  Frazer  (N'ow  Public^. 

tiona),  783 
Totonaea  tribe,  Vera  CVuz,  568,  570 
Trans-Cneplan  deserts,  I^f.  A.  KonBchiD*B 

observations  on  the,  625,  626 
^-~ Region,  Russian  Survey  m 

the,  43G 
Transkasplschcn  Gebiete  nnd  von  Nord- 

Chorassan,  Karle  der  (New  Alaps),  SSS 
Transvaal  and  Adjacent  Territories,  Fur* 

ther     Correspondence     respecting     tho 

Aflairs  of  tho  (New  Publioiitions),  136 
Travancore     and    noigiibouring     States, 

survey  of,  577 
Tmversi,  Dr.,  expedition  to  the  Snai  Lake 

and  Upper  Hawash,  627 


INDEX. 


823 


Trinidad,  Guide  to,  by  J.  H.  Collens  (New 
Publications),  394 

Tristram,  Bey.  Canon,  remarks  on  the 
Teaching  of  Geography  at  the  Universi- 
ties, 700 

Tsad,  Lake,  S04 

rivers  of,  298,  299 

Tsenbo  defile,  41 

Tshigunda  Language  of  the  Lower  Zam- 
besi Region,  by  the  Rev.  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
Laws  (New  Publications),  58 

Tsitsihar,  town  of,  551 

Tubingen,  Umgebunes-Karte  fiir  die  Gar- 
nisonstadt  (New  ^ps),  137 

T*umen  or  Kauli  Chiang  river,  557 

Tumtian  natives,  596,  600,  607 

TuDg-ching-chan,  town  of,  561 

Tunis,  forests  of,  T.  B.  Sandwith's  obser- 
vations on  the,  682 

Gulf  of.  Dr.  Fischer's  observations 

on  changes  of  the  c^st  line  of,  243 

Tunisie,  A  travers  lu,  Etudes  sur  les  Oasis, 
d:c.,  by  L.  Barabau  (New  Publications), 
587 

La,  by  J.  L.  De  Lanessan  (New 

Publications),  649  . 

Tupende  tribe,  756 

Turfan,  city  of,  749 

Turgute-Kalmuk  tribe,  215 

Turkistan  and  Tibet,  A.  D.  Carey's  travels 
in,  175 

Chinese,  A  Journey  round,  and 

along  the  Northern  Frontier  of  Tibet,  by 
A.  D.  Carey,  731  et  seq. 

Tyndull  Glacier,  Alaska,  274 

U. 

Uapa  or  Shark  river,  Fernando  Po,  624 

Ugen  river,  736 

Ulanga  river,  48 

Uliunghur,  Lake,  215 

IJluu  river,  474 

Ulysses;  or  Scenes  and  Studies  in  many 
Lands,  by  W.  G.  Palgrave  (New  Publi- 
cations), 784 

Umbelosi  valley,  499 

Um  Digal  quarries,  680 

Umlauft,  Professor  Dr.  F.,  Die  Alpen  (New 
Publications),  712 

Ungam,  Orts-  und  Strassen- Earte  des 
Konigreich,  von  A.  Steinhauser  (New 
Maps),  592 

Unirouk  Island,  Alaska,  278 

United  Kingdom,  The  Ordnance  Survey 
of  the,  by  Colonel  T.  P.  White  (New 
Publications),  205 

States,  Annual  Beportof  the  Board 

of  Regents  of  the  Smithsonian  Institu- 
tion (New  Publications),  589 

Annual  Report  of  the  Chief 

Signal  Officer  of  the  Army  to  the  Secre- 
tary of  War  for  1885  (New  Publica- 
tions), 521 

Canada  and  Mexico,  Brad- 


shaw's  A.B.C.  Dictionary  to  the  (New 
Publications),  322 


United  States.  Fourth  Annual  Report  of 
the  Bureau  of  Ethnology  to  the  Secre- 
tary of  the  Smithsonian  Institution 
(New  Publications),  521 

Geographical  Survey.  Geo- 
logical History  of  Lake  Lahontan,  North- 
western Nevada,  by  I.  Cook  Bussell 
(New  Publications),  321 

Geographical  and  Geologi- 
cal Survey,  On  the,  by  Josiah  Pierce, 
704 

Geological  Survey,  Bul- 
letins of  the  (Department  of  the  Interior) 
(New  Publications),  58,  321,  460 

Annual 


Report  of  the  (New  Publications).  781 

•  Mono- 


graphs of  the  (New  Publications),  521 
•  Hydrographic  Charts  (New 


Maps),  66,  140,  330,  466,  529,  594,  728, 
788 

Indexed  County  Pocket 

Maps  (New  Maps),  657,  724 

Map  of  the  Western  (New 

Maps),  788 

Report    on   the   Mining 

Industries  of  the,  Ac.,  by  R.  Pumpelly 
(New  Publications),  522 

Reports  of  the  Consular 

Officers  of  the,  on  Emigration  and  Im- 
migration (New  Publications),  523 

Tenth  Census  of  the  (New 


Publications),  58,  133,  588 

Universities,  The  Teaching  of  Geography 
at  the,  By  H.  J.  Mackinder,  698 

Ural  Mountains,  M.  Tchemichev's  baro- 
metrical observations  in  the,  54 

Northern,    reconnaissance   of    the 

eastern  slope  of  the,  432 

Urumtsi  town,  749 

Usaungula  station,  East  Africa,  494 

Ushba,  Mount,  767 

U-tui-shan  Mountains,  233 

Uzaramo,  new  stations  founded  in,  494 

V. 

Yalebt-Matet,  M.,  Explorations  in  South 

Tunis,  255 
Vancouver   Island,  Die    Indianerstiimme 

von,  und  an  der  Kiiste  von  Britisch- 

Columbia  (New  Maps),  464 
Van  der  Chijs,  J.  A.,  De  Vestigiug  van 

het  Nederlandsche  Gezag  over  de  Ban- 

da-Eilanden  (New  Publications),  260 
Nederlandsch-Indisch  Pla- 

kaatboek  (New  Publications),  260 
Van  der  Stok,  Dr.  J.  P.,  Regenwaamemiii- 

gen  in  Nederlandsch-Indie  (New  Publi- 

cationsX  459 
Varaldo,  O.,  L'ori?:ine  di  Cristoforo  Co- 
lombo (New  Publications),  721 
Vedda  trilie  of  Ceylon,  392 
Venezuela  und  Brazil,  Boundary  Surveys 

of,  193 
VenukofT,  ^1.,  on  the  altitude  of  Lake 

Bolohoe,  55 


834 


INDEX. 


Vera  Cruz,  State  of,  Mexico,  The  Abori- 
ginal Imlian  Eaces  of  the,  by  A,  Baker, 
568  et  seq. 

Yercini^'ten  Stiiftteti  mid  Ton  Cunadft, 
Landwirtschaftakftrtc!  imd  iDdtistriekai'te 
fier,  von  A.  Supaii  (Now  Maps),  65 

Vetb,  P.  J.,  Ontdeldcum  en  OndcrzoekeiB 
(New  Publications),  785 

Victoria,  Geolotry  nnd  Physi(*al  QeO" 
frT«pli>%  by  R.  A.  F,  Murray  (New 
PiiiUcBlionfl)j  650 

"  GovcjrnmeDt  of,  Expedition  to  the 

Oweu  Stanley  Range,  New  Guinea,  305 
■  Mnp  of  (New  Maps),  65 


Vi#oot«  R.,  Nouvean  Plau  da  la  VlEe 
d* Amiens  (New  Blnpe),  52B 

Vignon,  Louis,  La  Fmofie  daiiB  )*Afriqne 
du  Nord  (New  Pul>liE?ation«),  649 

Tillavicencio,  Dr.  R.,  La  Repulilioa  do 
Yenezuela  bajo  el  punto  de  vista  de  la 
Geografla  y  Topo^afut  nic  licas  y  <le  la 
Bemografia  (New  Piiblicntions),  52t) 

Tircl^ow,  Professor,  on  AcclimatiiatioB,  691 

Tfx^ikof,  Dr.  A.,  *Die  Klimate  der  Erd< 
3S8 

Volo  river,  473 

Wa^^en,  W.,  Salt-range  FossfOa.  Geologi- 
cal Survey  of  India  (New  PublicationB), 

Wade,  Sir  T.,  remarks  on  a  Journey  in 

ManoburiSf  5*55 
remarks  on  the  Lii  River  of  Tibetj 

&c.,  372 
Wadi  Zeidun,  fi65 
Wftganda  Tribe  of  Central  Africii,  Notes 

on  the.  by  R.  W,  Felkin  (Now  Publioa- 

tionp),  132 
Wahlen,    E,,    Wabre     Tairesmiltel     inid 

Tagliohe  Varialion  der  Tetn|>eratnr  an 

IB   Stutionon    dea  Rupsiiichen   Rciches 

(New  Publicatjona),  45S 
AVakefield,   Rev.   JI.,   Vociibulary  of  the 

K^vifuHilo     Language   (New    Publicft- 

tioTis),  58S 
Walde,   A.,  Tourifitcn-ILirte   vom   oberen 

Murg*  nnd  Rcnchthiilgebiet  (New  Maps), 

787 
Wftldenbnrg,  Specialknrte  dea  KreiMS,  von 

G.  Olbieh  (New  Maps),  7li3 
WalBah  Bay  regrion,  Dr.  StapfiTa  explora- 

liona  in  tfie,  511 
"Walker,  General  J*  T.,  remarkB  tm  the 

Expedition  fwm   Upper  Asaam   to  th© 

Irawa<li,  ic  38 
■        —  remarks  on  the  Lu  River  of  Tibet, 

Ac,  376 
The  Lu  River  of  Til^et ;  ia  it  the 

source  of  tho  Irawadi  or  the  Siilwin? 

35t2  ct  !^eq, 
Wall,  II.  B.  de  la  Poer^  Matmal  of  Phyai- 

cal  Gcogra-pby  of  Atistialia  (New Publi- 
cations), 650 
"Warn bo  river,  708 
WaTbnrtoii,    Colonel    E,»  journey  acroaa 

Weatern  Austriilia^  691,  695 


Ward,  C.  S.,  Thorough  Guide  Seriea  The 
Eastern  Countiea,  their  Watering  Places, 
Ac.  (New  Publietttiona),  458 

—  T.  H.,  The  Rtjign  of  Queen  TictOTia  : 
a  Survey  of  Fifty  Years  of  ProgreaBj 
edited  by  (Ntjw  Publication*-),  590 

Warren,  Sir  Chariea,  Address  as  President 
of  the  Geographical  Seotiou  of  the 
British  Association  at  Manoheflter,  1887, 
629  €i  9€q, 

remarks  on  some  defects  of  the 

Ordnance  Maps,  704 

Waaaerscbeiden,  Studien  iiber,  by  Alfred 

Philippsnn  (New  Publications),  60 
WaterfuJls,  Cataracts,  and  Gt^yaers,  Greats 

described  and  illustrateil,  by  J,  Glbsoii 

(New  Publicfttioofi),  523 
Wateraheds   of   the    Glube,  The    Greftt, 

Geaeml  von  Tillo  on  the,  310 
Watt,  Dr.  G.,  Temarks  on  the  Expedition 

from  Upper  Assam  to  the  Imwadi,  &o,, 

39 
Weather:    a  Po]mlflr  Exposition  of  tho 

Nature  of  Weatht!r  Changea  from  Day 

to   Day,  by    Hon.    Ralph   Aberorombj 

(New  Publications),  719 
Weiss,    Knrt,    Ale  me    Reise   nach    dem 

Kihmn-Ndjarogebiet  im  Auftra^    der 

Dentsch  -  Oatafrikanigchen  Geflellsoluifl 

(New  Publications),  715 
Waie  or  Makua  river,  47,  204,  419,  420 
Wembare  or  Muaru  river,  45 
Weuiig,  L.,  Earte  dor  Aipen  (New  Mapi)^ 

395 
Werre  or  C>pi  river,  292 
Western^    Lieut.-Cblonel^    report    cm    tho 

Raian  basin,  610 
WhartoD,  Captain^  remarks  on   Explora- 

liona  in  South-eastern  New  Guin*^a,  84 
White,  Lieut.-Colonel   T.   P.,   The   Ord- 
nance Survey  of  tho  Uwlted  Kingdom 

(New  Publkationa),  205 
Whitehonse,  Cope«  remarks  on  the  Teach- 
ing of  Qeography  at  thp  Universities,  700 
The  Riiian  I^Ioaria ;  or  Storage 

Reservoir  of  Middle  Egypt»  608  et  9eq. 
Wlgi^ins,    Captain,    trade    voyage     firna 

Europe  to  Siberia,  683 
Wilcox  and  Burl  ion,  Lieutenanta,  vijit  to 

Mane  hi,  20 
Wilde,  Dr.    Eduardfi,   Senrido   Argetitino 

(New  Puhlicfttions),  717 
Wilkins,  Professor,  remarka  on  the  Teacb* 

ing  of  Geography  at  the  Ontveraities, 

700 
Wilkinaon,  Spenaer,  on  some  defects   of 

tJie  Ordnance  Mopa,  702 
— remarks  on  the  Utilisatioa  of 

the  Ordnance  Survey.  704 
Williams,  J.  FraDCon,  The  Queen 'a  Jubiloe 

Atlas    of   the    British    Empire    (New 

Maps),  67 
WillP,  0.  J.,  Persia  As  It  Is  (New  PubUca- 

tiona),  131 
J.  T.,  Between  the  Nile   and    the 

Congo:    Dr.   Junker  and    the  (Welle) 

Makua,  285  el  ieq. 


INDEX. 


825 


Wilson,  James  H.,  China :  Tnyels  and 
Investigations  in  the  Middle  Kingdom 
(New  Publications),  779 

Wilson,  Sir  Charles,  on  the  Utilisation  of 
the  Ordnance  Survey,  704 

Extracts  from  a  Paper  on  the  Utili- 
sation of  the  Ordnance  Survey,  Maps, 
&c.  (New  Publications),  786 

remarks  on  some  defects  of  the 


Ordnance  Maps,  703 

the  late  John,  Indian  Caste  (New 


Publications),  62 
Winsor,    Justin,   Narrative    and    Critical 
Historv  of  America,  edited  by,  voL  iv. 
(New  Publications),  207 

Narrative  and  Critical  History  of 

America,  edited  by,  vol.  v.  (New  Pub- 
lications), 588 

Winton,  Sir  Francis  de,  remarks  on  Be- 
tween the  Nile  and  the  Congo:  Dr. 
Junker  and  the  (Welle)  Makua,  302 

remarks  on  Explorations  in  Central 

Africa,  418 

Wissraann,  Lieutenant,  expedition  to  the 

Congo  region,  640,  776 
explorations  in  Central  Africa, 

390 
Wito-land,  493 
Woeikoff,  Dr.  A.,  Die  Klimate  der  Erde 

(New  Publications),  135 
Wohlgemuth,  Capitan  von,  Die   Oester- 

reichische  Polarstation  Jan  Muyen  (New 

Publications),  263 
Wolf,  Dr.,  travels  in  the  Southern  Congo 

Basin,  129 
Dr.  Ludwig,  Explorations  on  the 

Upper  Eassai  and  Sunknru,  640  et  seq, 

Dr.     T.,     Piano     de     Guayaquil 

(Ecuador)  (New  Maps),  464 

L.,  Yolksstamme  Central  Afrika's 


(New  Publications),  588 
Wolff,  Dr.,  337 

Sir  H.  Drummond,  on  the  extent  of 

cultivable  land  in  Egypt,  609 

Wolkenhauer,  Dr.  W.,  biographical  sketch 

of  Em  in  Pasha,  251 
Wood,  F.  H.,  Pictorial  Map  of  Palestine, 

giving  a  bird's-eyo  view  of   the  ^oly 

Land,  &c.,  by  (New  Maps),  268 
Woodthorpe,  Colonel,  explorations  in  north 

of  India  37,  38 

Journey  of  the  Expedition 

under,  from  Upper  Assam  to  the  Irawadi, 
and  return  over  the  Patkoi  Range,  by 
Major  C.  R.  Macgregor,  19  et  seq. 

■  surveys   in   Upper   Burma, 


308 

Woodward,  H.  B.,  The  CJeology  of  England 
and  Wales ;  with  notes  on  the  Physical 
Features  of  the  Country  (New  Publica- 
tions), 316 

World,  Commercial  Chart  of  the,  by  W. 
&  A.  K.  Johnston  (New  Maps),  786 
Handy-volume  Atlas   of  the, 


F.  Philip  &  Son  (New  Maps),  466 
New  Complete  Atlas  of  the, 

G.  W.  Bacon  (New  Maps),  268 


by 
by 


World,  the  longest  rive^  in   the,  Major- 
General  von  Tillo's  estimate  of,  120 

the  longest  rivers  in  the,  letter 

from  Edward  Hoawood  on,  252 

Wrangel,  Mount,  Alaska,  278,  282 
Wray,  J.  A.,  visit  to  the  Crater-lake  of 

Chala,  on  Mount  Kilimanjaro,  47 
Wright,  F.  G.,  observations  of  the  Muir 

Glacier  of  Alaska,  118,  283 

Rev.  Dr.,  remarks   on  Explora- 
tions in  South-eastern  New  Guinea,  84 

Wylde,  A.  B.,  The  Red  Sea  Trade,  691 
Wyndham,  Australia,  69$ 


X. 

XiNOU   river,  Brazil,  Dr.  Earl  von  den 
Steinen's  new  journey  to  the,  193 


Y. 

Yadbintzofp,  M.,  on  the  desiccation  of 

Siberian  lakes,  51 
Yak  Walang  river,  103 
Yakatat  Indians,  Alaska,  279 
Yalu  river,  540 

Yang-tsze-kiang  river,  length  of,  120,  253 
Yao  dialects,  115 

tribes,  469 

Yaro-tsanpo  river,  353 

the  eastern  basin  of  the,  370 

Yashil-knl  lake,  229 

Yate,   Lieutenant  A.  C,    England    and 

Russia  Face  to  Face  in  Asia  (New  Pub- 
lications), 206 
Ycaiohe  town,  British  Honduras,  423 
Yeats,  John,    Technical,  Industrial,  and 

Tnide  Education  (New  Publications), 

721 
Yegrais  tribe,  Tibet,  226 
Yemen,  A  Journey  through,   by  Major- 

General  F.  T.  Haig,  479  et  seq. 
Yenesei-Selenga  river,  length  of,  120,  253 
Yerim  town,  488 
York    Factory,    Depth    of   Permanently 

Frozen  SoU  at,  769,  770 
(jkite  Library,  formed  by  Mr.  Silver, 

Catalogue  of  the,  by  B.  A.  Petheriok 

(New  Publications),  134 
Yoruba  CJonntry,  Route  Survey  through, 

by  W.  C.  Speeding  (New  Maps),  529 
Yoshinogawa  valley,  Japan,  99 
Yucatan,  M.  D^ird    Chaniay's  jonmeys 

in,  128 
Yule,  Colonel,  Diary  of  W.  Hedges  (New 

Publications),  587 
remarks   on   the  Expedition  from 

Upper  Assam  to  the  Irawadi,  &c.,  37 
Yusuf,  Bahr,  roughly  describing  its  present 

state  and  uses,  by  Captain  R.  H.  Brown, 

614 

Z. 

Zabala,  Amado  Osowo,  Vocabulary  of 
the  Fan  Language  in  West  Africa  (Now 
Publications^  460 


826 


INDEX. 


Zaire,  Embocadora  do  (New  Maps),  657 
Zambesi  Begion,  Lower,  The  Tshigimda 

Language  of  the,  by  the  Bey.  Dr.  and 

Mrs.  Laws  (New  PublicatioDs),  58 
Zondeh  tribe,  295,  296 
Zanzibar  and  Lake  Tanganyika,  monthly 

mail  established  between,  by  London 

Missionfiry  Society,  114 
— Sultan  of,  extent  of  dominions 

of,  493 
Zapateco  tribe,  Vera  Cruz,  568,  570 
Zappu  Zapp,  chief,  643 
Zamfshan,  Captain  Pariisky's  suryey  in 

the,  434 
Zaria,306 


Zayas  Enriquez,  ^fr.  B.  de,  on  the  Indiar.s 
of  Vera  Cruz,  573 

Zeidun,  Wadi,  665 

Zeit,  Jebel,  677 

Ziwandea  yillage,  187 

Zomba,  Mount,  C>entml  Africa,  178 

Zongolica,  canton  of,  570 

Zoutpansberg  (Transyaal),  Carte  des  Dis- 
tricts du,  et  de  Lorenzo  Marquez,  dressee 
par  Henri  Berthoud  (Now  Biaps),  211 

Zug,  Lake,  depth  of,  680 

Zululand,  Further  Ciorrespondence  respetst- 
ing  the  Affairs  of,  and  Adjacent  Terri- 
tories (New  Publications),  715 

Zyerinsky,  V.  V.,  431 


INDEX  TO  MAPS. 


AFRICA. 


Africa,  Central  (sketch  map),  330 
Africa,  East,  Political  Boundaries,  530 
Africa,  West  Central,  Silya  Porto's  route 

in,  790 
Blantyre  to  Angoni-land,  Mr.  Last's  routes 

from,  212 


Delagoa  Bay  and  adjoining  Country,  498 
Egypt,  Eastern  Desert  of,  Mr.  Floyer's 

route,  730 
Fayoum,  The,  and  the  Baian  Basin,  658 
Nile,  Upper,  and  Congo,  Dr.  Junker's  jour- 
neys between  the,  466 


AMERICA. 


Aloska  and  Mount  St.  Elias,  Lieutenant 
Seton  Karr's  journey  in,  330 


British  Honduras,  Plan  of  a  portion  of  the 
Western  Frontier  of,  and  Sketch  Map 
of,  421 


ASIA. 


Brahmaputra  and  Irawadi,  Country  be- 
tween. Colonel  Woodthorpe*s  route  in,  68 

Japan,  Physical  Map  of,  with  Sketch  Map 
showing  Dr.  E.  Nauroann's  routes,  140 

Manchuria,  Mr.  James's  route  in,  594 


Tibet,  General  Projevalsky's  journeys  in, 

330  (in  the  bounr)  vol.  268) 
Tibet,  South-eastern,  898 
Turkistan,  Chinese,  and  Northern  Tibet, 

790 


AUSTRALASIA. 


Jubilee  and  Philp  Biyers,  British  New 
Guinea,  058 


New  Guinea,  South-eastern,  Bey.  J.  Chal- 
mer's  explorations  in,  140 


INDEX  TO  ILLUSTEATIONS. 

Mr.    Beyan   making    Friends   with    the  I  Furthest  Point  reached  on  Jubilee  Biyer, 
Tumtiuns,  597  |       599 

Hayes  Biyer,  Diagram  of  Lajidslip  in,  showing  Depth  of  Frozen  Soil,  772 


LONDOX:  PftlXTKD  BT  WILLLAM^CLOWXS  AKD  SOITS,  LIMITED,  BTAMrO&D  STRSBT  AXD  OHARIVO  CX980.