This is a digital copy of a book that was preserved for generations on library shelves before it was carefully scanned by Google as part of a project
to make the world's books discoverable online.
It has survived long enough for the copyright to expire and the book to enter the public domain. A public domain book is one that was never subject
to copyright or whose legal copyright term has expired. Whether a book is in the public domain may vary country to country. Public domain books
are our gateways to the past, representing a wealth of history, culture and knowledge that's often difficult to discover.
Marks, notations and other marginalia present in the original volume will appear in this file - a reminder of this book's long journey from the
publisher to a library and finally to you.
Usage guidelines
Google is proud to partner with libraries to digitize public domain materials and make them widely accessible. Public domain books belong to the
public and we are merely their custodians. Nevertheless, this work is expensive, so in order to keep providing this resource, we have taken steps to
prevent abuse by commercial parties, including placing technical restrictions on automated querying.
We also ask that you:
+ Make non-commercial use of the files We designed Google Book Search for use by individuals, and we request that you use these files for
personal, non-commercial purposes.
+ Refrain from automated querying Do not send automated queries of any sort to Google's system: If you are conducting research on machine
translation, optical character recognition or other areas where access to a large amount of text is helpful, please contact us. We encourage the
use of public domain materials for these purposes and may be able to help.
+ Maintain attribution The Google "watermark" you see on each file is essential for informing people about this project and helping them find
additional materials through Google Book Search. Please do not remove it.
+ Keep it legal Whatever your use, remember that you are responsible for ensuring that what you are doing is legal. Do not assume that just
because we believe a book is in the public domain for users in the United States, that the work is also in the public domain for users in other
countries. Whether a book is still in copyright varies from country to country, and we can't offer guidance on whether any specific use of
any specific book is allowed. Please do not assume that a book's appearance in Google Book Search means it can be used in any manner
anywhere in the world. Copyright infringement liability can be quite severe.
About Google Book Search
Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers
discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web
at|http : //books . google . com/
PROCEEDINGS
OF THE
ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
AMD
Monthly Record of Geography.
PUBLISHED UNDEB THE AOTHOBITT OF THE COUNCIL, AND EDITED BY
THE ASSISTANT SEOBETABY, 1, SAVILB BOW.
NEW MONTHLY SERIES.
VOL. IX., 1887.
LONDON:
EDWABD STANFOED, 55, CHARING CROSa
1887.
J9f
212808
LONDON:
PfilHTED BT WILUAM CLOWES AMD 80N8, LIMITED,
STAMIORD 8TBEET AMD CHABIMa 0B0S8.
ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY.
PATRON.
HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN,
VICE-PATRON.
HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCE OF WALES, K.G., K.T., K.P.,
G.C.B., &c., &c.
Honorary President.
HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE DUKE OP EDINBURGH, K.G., E.T.,
G.C.S.L, &c., &c.
COUNCIL
(ELECTED 23bd MAY, 1887).
President— General Richaed Strachey, R.E., C.S.L, F.R.S.
Vice-Presidents.
Right Hon. Lord Aberdare, G.C.B.,
F.RS.
Sir Rutherford Alcock, K.C.B.
Sir Joseph Hooker, K.C.S.L, C.B.,
F.R.S.
Major-General Sir H. C. Rawlinson,
K.C.B.
General Sir C. P. Beaucuamp Walker,
K.C.B.
Colonel H. Yule, R.E., C.B.
Treasurer— Reginald T. Cocks, Esq.
Trustees— Sir Barrow H. Ellis, K.C.S.L ; Sir John Lubbock, Bart., F.R.S., M.P.
Secretaries — Clements R. Markham, Esq., C.B., F.R.S. ;
Douglas W. Freshfield, Esq.
Foreign Secretary — Lord Arthur Russell.
Members of Council.
Sir Henry Barkly, G.C.M.G., K.C.B.
W. T. Blanford, Esq., F.R.S.
Admiral Lindesay Brine.
Hon. G. C. Brodrick.
J. Anxan Bryce, Esq.
Colonel Sir Francis W. de Winton,
R.A., K.C.M.G.
Right Hon. Sir M. E. Grant Duff,
G.C.S.I.
Francis Galton, Esq., F.R.S.
Major-General Sir F. J. Goldsmid,
K.C.S.L, CB.
Colonel J. A. Grant, C.B., F.R.S.
Sir John Kihk, G.C.M.G., F.RS.
Lieut.-General Sir Peter S. Lumsden,
G.C.B.
Colin Mackenzie, Esq.
William Mackinnon, Esq., CLE.
E. Delmar Morgan, Esq.
Cutiibert E. Peek, Esq., F.R.A.S.
Sir Rawson W. Rawson, K.C.M.G., CB.
Sir Thomas F. Wadf^ K.C.B.
Captain W. J. L. Wharton, R.N.
General J. T. Walker, CB., F.R.S.
Colonel Sir Chas. W. Wilson, R.E.,
K.C.M.G.
ABsiBtazit Seoretarj and Editor of TranaactionB— H. W. Bates, Esq., F.R.S., F.L.B.
Librarian—J. Scott Keltie, Esq.
Map Curator— John Coles, Esq., F.R JL.B.
Chief Clerk— B. J. Evis, Esq.
Bankers— liettZB. Gods, Beddulfb, and Co., 48, Charing Cross.
CONDITIONS OP FELLOWSHIP, &o.
Candidates for admission into the Society mnst be proposed and
seconded by Fellows, and it is necessary that the description and resi-
dence of such Candidates should be clearly stated on their Certificates.
It is provided by Chapter IV., § 1, of the Eegulations, that,
** Every Ordinary Fellow shall, on bis election, be required to pay £8 as bis
* admission fee, and £2 as his annual contribution for the year ending on the Slst
M December then next ensuing, or he may compound either at his entrance by one
** payment of £28, or at any subsequent period by the payment of £25, if his entrance
*' fee be already paid."
All Subscriptions are payable in advance, on the 1st of January in
each year.
The privileges of a Fellow include admission (with one friend) to all
Meetings of the Society, and the use of the Library and Map-room.
Each Fellow is also entitled to receive a copy of the New Monthly
Series of the Proceedings and the Supplementary Papers, the former
of which is forwarded, free of expense, to addresses in the United
Kingdom, and the latter obtained on application at the Society's office.
Ck>pie0 of the RegulationB and Candidates' Certifloates may be had on appUoa-
tion at the Society's Office, 1, Savile Bow, London, W.
CONTENTS.
Authon are alone respcmible for their reepeetive itaiemmUe,
No. 1. January.
PAOB
The Islands of the New Britain Group. By H. H. Romilly 1
Journey of the Expedition under Golooel Woodthorpe, B.E., from Upper
Asaam to the Irawadi^ and Return over the Patkoi Kange. By Major
G. R. Macgregor 19
Journey of Mr. J. T. Last from Blantyre to the Namuli Hills 42
The late Dr. G. A. Fischer's Expedition for the Relief of Dr. Junker .. .. 45
Geographical Notes 47
Report of the Evening Meetings 53
Proceedings of Foreign Societies 54
New Geographical Publications and New Maps 57
Map. — Ck)untry between the Brahmaputra and the Upper Irawadi 68
No. 2. February.
The Dragon Lake of Pamir. By Major-General Sir Henry C. Rawlinson, k.c.b. 69
Explorations in South-eastern New Guinea. By Rev. J. Chalmers .. .. 71
The Physical Geography of Japan, with Remarks on the People. By
Dr. Edmund Naumann 86
Captain Maitland's and Captain Talbot's Journeys in Afghanistan 102
A Journey in the Province of San Paulo, Brazil, in July-September 1885. By
R.F. Holme 108
Geographical Notes 114
Correspondence 121
Olatuary 123
Report of the Evening Meetings 126
Proceedings of Foreign Societies 127
New Geographical Publications and New Maps 129
Maps. — Sonth-eastem Part of New Guinea ; Physical Map of Japan .. .. 140
No. 3. March.
On the Scope and Methods of Geography. By H. J. Mackinder, b.a. .. .. 141
Mr. A. D. Carey's Travels in Turkistan and Tibet 175
A Journey from Blantyre to Angoni-land and Back. By J. T. Last, Com-
mander of the Society's Expedition to the Namuli Hills, East Central
Africa 177
Geographical Notes 188
▼1 CONTENTS.
Obituary 194
Report of the Evening Meetings 201
Proceedings of Foreign Societies 202
New Geographical Publications and New Maps 205
Map. — Blantyre to Angoni-land (Mr. Last's route) 212
No. 4. ApriL
Prejevalsky's Journeys and Discoveries in Central Asia. By E. Delmar
Morgan 213
Potanin's Journey in North-western China and Eastern Tibet 233
A Journey in Northern and Eastern Manchuria 235
Geographical Notes 239
Correspoudeuce 252
Report of the Evening Meetings 254
Proceedings of Foreign Societies 254
New Geographical Publications and New Maps 258
Map.— Tibet: General Prejevakky's Routes 268
No. 6. May,
The Alpine Regions of Alaska. By Lieut. H. W. Seton-Karr 269
Between the Nile and the Congo : Dr. Junker and the (Welle) Makua. By
J.T.Wills 285
Gteographical Notes 304
Report of the Evening Meetings 311
Proceedings of Foreign Societies 312
New Geographical Publications and New Maps 315
Maps. — Alaska ; Sketch-Map of Central Africa 330
No. 6. June,
The Annua Address on the Progress of Geography : 1886-7, By General
B. Strachey, B.E., FJUB., Vice-President 331
The Lu River of Tibet : Is it the Source of the Irawadi or the Salwin ? By
General J. T. Walker, B.B., F.B.B 352
Geographical Notes 377
Obituary 386
Report of the Evening Meetings 388
Proceedings of Foreign Societies 388
New Geographical Publications and New MapK 392
Map.— South-eastern 'Hbet 398
CONTENTS. VU
No. 7. July,
PAQB
Explorations in Central Africa. By Dr. W. Junker 399
Notes on a Part of the Western Frontier of British Honduras. By William
Miller, Assistant Surveyor-General, British Honduras 420
Russian Geographical Work in 1886. From Russian Sources, by E. Delmar
Morgan 423
Geographical Notes 437
Correspondence 444
The Anniversary Meeting 446
Report of the Evening Meetings 455
Proceedings of Foreign Societies 456
New Geographical Publications and New Maps 458
Maps. — North-western Frontier of British Honduras 421
Re^on between the Upper Nile and the Congo 466
No. 8. August
On the Society's Expedition to the Namuli Hills, East Africa. By J. T. Last 467
A Journey through Yemen. By Major-General F. T. Haig 479
Recent Changes in the Map of East Africa 490
Journeys in the District of Delagoa Bay, Dec. 1886-Jan. 1887. By H. E.
CTNeill 497
Expedition of Mr. George P. James from the Chanchamayo in Peru to the
Atlantic 505
Geographical Notes 608
Report of the Evening Meetings 513
Proceedings of Foreign Societies 513
New Geographical Publications and New Maps 517
Maps. — Delagoa Bay and Neighbouring Region 498
East Africa : Political Boundaries 530
Ko. d. September.
A Journey in Manchuria. By H. E. M. James, of the Bombay Civil Service 531
The Aboriginal Indian Races of the State of Vera Cruz, Mexico. By A.
Baker, British Consul, Tera Cruz 568
Indian Surveys, 1885-6 574
Geographical Notes 576
Obituary 583
Proceedings of Foreign Societies 584
New Geographical Publications and New Maps 586
Map. — ^Bianchuria 594
▼m CJONTENIS.
No. 10. October.
PAOX
Discovery of Two New Rivera in British New Ghiinea. By Theodore F. Bevan 696
The Ra'ian Moeris ; or Storage Reservoir of Middle Egypt. By Cope White-
house, M^ 608
The Feasibility of the Ralan Project. By Colonel Ardagh^CLB., R.B. .. .. 613
The Desert from Dahshur to Atn Raian. By Captain Conyers Surtees .. .. 613
The Bar Yusuf, roughly describing its Present State and Uses. By Captain
R. H. Brown, b.b 614
The Caucasus. By Douglas W. Freshfield 617
Geographical Notes 621
Proceedings of the Geographical Section of the British Association,. Manchester
Meeting 628
New Geographical Publications and New Maps 648
Maps. — The Jubilee and Philp Rivera, British New Guinea ; the Fayomn and
the Ralan Basin, Egypt 668
No. 11. November.
Notes on a Sketch- Map of Two Routes in the Eastern Desert of Egypt By
Ernest A. Floyer, f.l.8. 659
(Geographical Notes 681
Obituary 687
Proceedings of the G^graphical Section of the British Association, Manchester
Meeting 689
Proceedings of Foreign Societies 707
New Geographical Publications and New Maps 709
Map.— Eastern Desert of Egypt 780
No. 12. December.
A Journey round Chinese Turkistan and along the Northern Frontier of
Tibet. By A. D.Carey 731
Silva Porto's Journey from Bihe (Bie) to the Bakuba Country 753
G^eographical Notes 757
Report of the Evening Meetings 765
Pkoceedings of the G^graphioal Section of the British Association. Manchester
Meeting 769
Phxseedings of Foreign Societies 774
New Geographical Publications and New Maps 777
Maps. — Chinese Turkistan and Northern Tibet ; Silva Porto's Routes in West
Central Africa 790
IHDBX 791
PROCEEDINGS
OP THE - ,.
ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOOIEl^^
AND MONTHLY RECORD OF GEOGRAPHY.
Tlie Islands of the New Britmn Group,
By H. H. RoMiLLY.*
(Bead at the Evening Meeting, November 22nd, 1886.)
A FEW years ago this group, in common with many other South Sea
Island groups, was almost unknown, and even at the present time not
very much is really known of it. The Germans, by whom it is
principally settled, seem to keep their information very much to them-
selves. They have changed the names of the islands from New Britain
and New Ireland, to New Mecklenburg and New Pomerania (Neu
Pommem), but it is simpler for our purposes to retain the- names by
which they were first known. It is unnecessary to discuss their first
discovery.
The records of the early navigators are very meagre, and many of
them have been lost. It is always uncertain who the discoverers of these
groups were, nor does it really much matter. We flatter ourselves that
Captain Cook was the first to land in Australia, but it is certain that the
Spaniards landed on its western coast and hoisted their flag there more
than a hundred years before Cook's visit.
Dampier gives some slight account of New Britain, but he only re-
mained a few days there. He visited the magnificent harbour now
called Blanche Bay and hoisted the British flag there. His intercourse
with the natives, however, does not seem to have been at all intimate.
I propose in this paper to speak of the New Britain group as it was
when I knew it in 1881 and 1883. At that time the- white population
was very small and very scattered. It was composed of men of all
nationalities and conditions of society. We had there a mixture of
French, English, German and Italian roughs, runaway sailors, a
few survivors of the ill-fated Marquis de Ray's colonising expedition,
well-educated gentleman-like missionaries, and on6 or two men who had
evidently once been English gentlemen, but who had, doubtless for very
• For map see * Proceedings,* 188G, p. 60S.
No. I.— Jan. 1887.] B
•THJ: ISLANDS OF THE KEW BRITAIN GROUP.
sufficiont reaei^Qs; bad to leave tbeir homes and bury themselves in the
most out-<-iPtbe'\vay spot they could find,
Therft*'Weffe two little oommunities : one at Matupi, a small island
in Blani^Ke -ftay, and the other in the Duke of York Islandj situated in
the ehantrel l>et\veen New Britain and New Ireland. The former was
Germ-^fi, and was the headquarters of the great trading firm of Robertson
aiid.,I?ernsheini, of Hamburg, and the other was the abode of the
LEfl^ieh Weslcyan Mission, at the head of which was the Eev. George
•thrown. As I have observed in many other places, the tendency of the
/idle eottlera was to live as near rb possible to the Mission quarters. No
doubt they felt a sense of protection in so doing, and in this opinion
they were justified^ as on more than one occasion the niissionarios inter-
jiosed successfully between the whites and blacks. There were also
isolated traders living by themselves at points on the New Britain coasi»
hut at the date of my first visit no one had resided in New Ireland.
At that time the natives of that island w^ere too hostile and treacherous
to make that advisable, A small trade in coco-nuts was, however, carried
on with them, and on several occasions the island was visited by Mr.
Brown, and I believe ho once performed the feat of walking nearly
across it, and sighting the sea on the east coa&t.
Before describiDg any of the habits of the native and foreign
inhabitants of this group I will give a short description of the
islands themselves, their appearance, and geological formation. On
approaching New Britain from the southward the first land sighted
is probably the high mountain called Mount Bcaw temps Beaupr6*
This is a tall conical -shaped hill, some 4000 feet in height,
generally covered with clouds. It is usually free from them in the
early morning and just before sunset, and is at that time an excellent
landmark,, as it can be seen on clear days at a distance of some 40 miles.
In a country where the natural landmarks of the coast are incorrectly
or vaguely described in the Admiralty charts the value of so ctmspicuous
an object cannot be over-estimated.
After sighting this mountain, and thereby having ascertained liis
position correctly, the navigator shapes his course along the New Britain
coast, and as cloj^e to it as is consistent with safety, in order to avoid
the tremendous currents of the mid-channol between the two islands.
These currents are very capricious, and he may have the bad luck,
as I once had, to bo beating about in the channel for a week or ten
days without making any progress. It is ikirly free from the great
danger to sailors in those seas, coral reefs, but it ia shaped like a funnel,
and is open to the full force of the Gouth-eaat trade wind, which blows
B8 fiercely in New Britain as it does anywhere.
The sea is one of the most dangerous to small sailing craft that I
know anywhere, very short and tintrue, with almost conical -shaped
waves. Something like it can occasionally be seen on our own coasts
THE ISLANDS OF THE NEW BRITAIN GROUP. 3
when a strong south-westerly gale blows up the Bristol Channel. The
tides have been a puzzle to sailors since they first navigated those
waters. On one occasion I was beating down the channel on my way
from Matupi to New Guinea in a small schooner. We had a south-east
trade wind blowing nearly a gale in our teeth. For a week we made
precisely the same points of land on each tack, and as far as we could
see we neither lost nor made a yard. One night, just as we were
beginning to despair of ever getting out of the channel, and were dis-
cussing the advisability of returning to Matupi till the weather should
moderate, the current, without any change of wind, suddenly altered its
direction from up the channel to down the channel, and in a few hours
we werfe out at sea.
But to resume our cruise. Having made Mount Beautemps-Beaupre,
the sailor would hug the New Britain coast till he sighted the next
conspicuous landmark, a tall extinct volcano named the Mother.
This mountain is situated on a narrow arm of the mainland, which,
curviug to the southward, helps to protect the harbour of Blanche Bay
from the south-east trade winds. To north and south of it are two
other extinct volcanoes, the North and South Daughters. Immediately
to the eastward of it is a small partially active one, and which for three
days in 1878 was in full eruption, while still further to the northward
of it are no less than three small craters, evidently extinct for many
years, as the vegetation on their sides proves. Blanche Bay evidently
has been, and still is, a very active volcanic centre. The small cone,
which still has an appearance as if it might any day burst into violent
eruption, smokes incessantly. The natives are much afraid of it,
though I believe they have no particular superstition concerning it, and
on one occasion when I made its ascent in company with a naval officer,
we had to go alone, as no native would accompany us. That there is
still plenty of latent energy in it, is evident from the fact that at its
base the sea-water is so hot for several hundred yards from it, that it is
impossible to hold the hand in it. In another part of the bay, not a
mile from the mountain's base, is a boiling river of strong sulphurous
water, up which a boat can be pulled for several hundred yards. In
many places the water is actually boiling. It seems strange that in a
country like New Britain, where some thirty or forty per cent, of the
natives are afflicted with skin diseases, that they should not have re-
cognised the curative powers of this boiling river. But they are content
to continue in their disgusting condition, even with the natural cure at
hand.
During the eruption in 1878, a small island of about three hundred
yards in length by one hundred yards wide, made its appearance in a
night. The natives say it was upheaved, but it appears to be more
probable that it was caused by falling mud and debris. The natives all
fled in their terror, so that they were hardly fair judges. The whole
B 2
THE ISLANDS OF THE NEW BRITAIN GROUP.
BUiface of St. George's Channel was so tLickly covered with pamice*
Btone, that a German friend of mine who was trying to enter it imme-
diately after the occmrence, could not conceive what had happened, as
from a distance it appeared as if St. George's Channel had altogether
disappeared and an impenetrable barrier of land taken its place.
For weeks afterwards many parts of the bay were uninhabitablo to
whites on account of the mill ions of fish which had been killed by the
boiling water in the narrow ehallow parts of it. "When I lived in
JIatupi, five yeai-s after this eventi we had slight earthquake shocks
ncaily cveiy day, and Bometimes such severe otjes, lasting for so long,
that we fled out of the hoMiie for safety. On one occaBion, a severe
tihock of oartbr|iiako was the cause of some amusement to us. I had been
out Bhuoting one terribly hot day with a naval officer. He had had a severe
attack of sunstroke some years previously on the west coast of Africa,
and he was very nervous about himself on this account in hot weather.
At the conclusion of our day's sport, as we were walking home, we
were both, apparently without any cause, precipitated violently on to
our faces, and for the next second or two the ground was shaking and
heaving, and we did not know clearly what had happened. I very soon
recovered myself, as I recognised at once what was the matter, but my
naval friend, who had only been one day in the country, and was not
accustomed to its eccentricities, in a tone of intense anguish said, " I
knew it would happen sooner or later, and now it has come.** He made
no effort to get up for a few minutes, but by degrees he began to
realise that there was nothing the matter with him, and that his
supposed attack of sunstroke was due to underground, and not to over-
bead influences.
Tho climate of the group Taries, as it must do in all the large
Pacific islands. On the coast, where the healthful influences of the sea
breezes can be felt, there is not much to complain of. During the day-
time for seven or eight months of the year, the trade winds blow, Ijut
during tho night-time the sea breeze usually falls, and its place is taken
by the land breeze, which blows from tbe interior down to the coast
and a few miles out to sea. It brings with it malarial poisoning from
tho swamps inland. I believe, however, the simple precaution of
putting on extra clothing after sunset every night would prevent much
fever. Matupi, where the head German statiouB are, is an ejttraordi-
narily health place and fever is unknown there. The natives themselves
appear to sufier from it quite as much as the whites, and the proportioa
of deaths from this cause must be very large. They do not, however,
consider it a natural death. The only two forms of death they recognise
as being natural are old age, not very common, and a death from
violence, "When a native has fever he accuses some friend or enemy of
his of bewitching him, and hie family invariably adopt hie view of the
case.
THE ISLANDS OF THE NEW BRITAIN GROUP. 5
Tlie yegetation is in many places as luxuriant *and varied as tropical
yegetation can be. In the interior, especially in protected valleys and
ravines where the atmosphere is from year's end to year's end of the
nature of a vapour bath, it must be seen to be appreciated. Gigantic
forest trees, covered with ferns, orchids, lycopodie^ and parasites of all
sorts seem united to each other and to the earth they spring from, by
a beautiful impenetrable mass of foliage. Birds innumerable can be
heard, but are only visible to the practised eye of the savage. Insects
of every varied size and hue flit about and add a lustre to the scene, and
to sum up briefly, the vegetation in the New Britain bush, and the
richness of the volcanic soil, can be surpassed in no part of the globe.
There should be no form of tropical agriculture practised among white
men which would not be successful in this country. The natives them-
selves are great agriculturists, and with the smallest possible amount of
labour produce crops of the richest possible description. On the occasion
of a long walk of mine from the coast to the base of Mount Beautemps-
Beaupr6, 1 was amazed to observe the closeness of the cultivation, and
the skill with which the native labourers had selected the sites of their
gardens, with a view to combining the richest possible soil with the
most inaccessible positions as a protection against their neighbours.
In what appeared to be impossible places to get at, fissures in rocks
on the sides of steep precipices, one would constantly see small patches
of sugar-cane and beds of yam and sweet potato. Even the taro, a root
which requires, artificial irrigation, could occasionally be seen growing.
The native gardeners had taken advantage of every little trickle of
water down the hill-sides, and had cunetructed, by means of dams and
artificial channels, little damp patches of soil in which the taro could
be grown. The women were the actual labourers in the gardens, but
all the little engineering difficulties in making such gardens as these
were overcome by the men. Doubtless the great difficulty they have to
contend with is the distrust and suspicion with which each man apparently
treats his neighbour. One constantly sees large tracts of very fertile
land uncleared because of the ease with which any cultivation there
could be destroyed by hostile neighbours. They are, therefore, driven
to select inaccessible situations for their gardens, and, as a rule, in
the interior, each man builds his house in some commanding situation
near it.
Now, to leave the interior and return to the coast. To the
north of New Britain the sea is an intricate network of coral
reefs and small rocky islands. But very few ships have visited
New Britain from that side, as the danger for sailing vessels is extreme.
New Britain seems to act as a barrier to the trade wind, for while it
blows with great violence on its south coast, to the northward of it is
usually a region of calms and strong currents. It was my bad fate once
to be endeavouring to go from Astrolabe Bay on the New Guinea coast
THE ISLANDS OF THE NEW BRITAIN GKuUP,
to the Duko of York Island. For a week wq tried to befti tlirougli
Dampier Strait in Tain^ and at last we decided to go along the nortli
coast of New Britain and arrive at our destination by tliat ronte. For a
day all went 'well, as our previously fonl wind, by our altemtion of
conrae, became a fair one* But wlieu yve had rtrn some hundred miles
from the coai^t of New Guinea the wind gradually died away, and we
found oursui yes drifting helplessly among reefs and islands innumerable.
Mauy of them were not marked at all on the chart, and all of them
that were, were more or lens out of position. For four days we had to
tow the ship — luckily a small schounei— with our two whale-boats,
and very glad indeed wo were when a faint northerly breeze, just
sufficient to fill our saLLa, gave us steerage-way in the direction in
which we wished to gri.
The observations of the few people who have sailed those seas —
whalers for the most partr, and captains of simill schooners fitted out on
gptfcnlative trading expeditions- — have been verj' incorrect^ and more
harm is done by placing a shoal or reef incorrectly on the chart than by
omitting to place it there at alL As far as my obser^'ations of the north
coast of New Britain went, 1 should say it was very thinly inhabited. I
pei*sonally saw no signs of life an^^ whore, but it is too much to suppose
that a seaboard of some two hundred miles in length should be absolutely
nninhabited. How far the natives on the south coast may be relied on
I cannot say, but I have l)een told by them that the north coast is only
occasionally visited by wandering tribes. As far as I know, there are
not sufficient data in our possession to enable us to form an}*^ estimate
of the population of Now Britain, Roughly speaking, the population
might foe placed at 100,000 souls, while the New Ireland communities
might perhaps muster half that number. There seems to foe no doubt
that in the little-known districts in the western half of the island the
population is more numerous than iu the eastern end.
I have coasted, contrary to my inclinations, and by force of circum-
stances, a great part of its south coast, and the evidences of abundant
population were everywhere visible. Smoke could be seen rising in
eveiy direction, villages could bo occasionally seen, and the coast is
abundantly lined wath coco-nut jmlms, a sure sign of douse population.
In these island communities there is no better rule to be guided by, for
the purpose of ascertaining the denseness of the coaat population than
by carefully noting the approximate number of coco-nut trees, I
believe, if it could be proved, that roughly about twenty coco-nut trees
to every head of population would give a fairly accurate result. In New
Ireland, the north-western half of the island is abundantly lined with
coco-nuts, and it is certainly in that part of the island that four- fifths
of the population is to be found.
Before I proceed to give a slight account of the natives of this group,
a few words about the appearance of New Ireland may be of interest.
THE ISLANDS OF THE NEW BRITAIN GROUP. 7
New Ireland presents many distinct features from New Britain. In New
Ireland there is presumably as Heavy a rainfall as in New Britain, but
while there are numerous small rivers in the latter island, in the
former, as far as I could discover, there are none worthy of that name.
A few small creeks and watercourses there may be on the mountain
sides, but there is no visible escape for the enormous amount of rain
which falls in the course of the year. It seems unlikely that there can
be lakes of any great size, as the configuration of the country renders
any such idea improbable.
The island is long and very narrow, that is to say, its extreme
width in any place is not more than 30 miles, while its average width
is from 10 to 15. A chain of mountains runs directly up its centre
which varies from two to six thousand feet in height, so that it will be
aeen that the ground must everywhere rise very steeply from the sea.
In heavy rains there must be mountain torrents, but I have coasted
the whole island round, in fair and foul weather, and never seen any-
thing like a river discharging itself into the sea. On the north coast, it
will be seen in the map, that there are several islands placed. At the
time of my last visit, as far as I know, they had never been visited. It
is most unlikely, however, that that is the case now. The island
marked as Fischer Island, I ascertained, was in reality three distinct
islands, while Gerrit Denys is certainly two, and perhaps more.
It was supposed on the occasion of my first visit, that New Ireland
was entirely deficient in good harbours. Since that time some excellent
harbours, protected from all quarters, and large enough to accommodate
a fleet of ships, have been discovered at the north-western end, between
New Ireland and New Hanover. As I said before, that end of the island
is also the richest, and the Oermans have taken advantage of their new
discovery to station traders there. Their relations with the natives are
not always friendly. Some have been killed^ and many have been driven
away, barely saving their lives.
I believe that at the present time no traders have been established in
New Hanover, the large island to the north-west of New Ireland.
While I was in New Ireland the natives of New Hanover showed
themselves most uncompromisingly hostile to me, and though I tried
often to land there, I never succeeded in doing so.
The channel between the two islands is a network of reefs, and in
spite of all my efforts I never succeeded in penetrating them. There
were plenty of canoe and no doubt boat passages from one island to the
other, for constantly while my schooner was anchored at Neusa, the name
of the northern harbour in New Ireland, canoes would come across from
New Hanover, and keeping at a respectful distance from the ship,
insult us with awful threats of what they would do if they ever got us
in their power. In appearance, New Hanover is far more inviting than
New Ireland. The mountains are high in the interior, but the land
8 THE ISLANDS OF THE NEW BRITAIN GROUP.
slopes gradually to them, and there are evidently many rivers, fertile
valleys, and wide-spreading plains covered with the wild sugar-cane
which always denotes the richest soil. Doubtless from the north it is
more easy of access, but I never had the opportunity of visiting it from
that quarter.
Having now touched lightly on some of the more noticeable geogra-
phical peculiarities of the New Britain group, it may be of interest to
touch equally lightly on some of the peculiar habits of its inhabitants.
The ethnologist would find abundant material there for observation
and reflection, but it would be out of place in this paper to indulge in
an ethnological dissertation on the races which inhabit these * three
large islands. Of thej largest of them. New Britain, we know a good
deal, of New Ireland and its people we know a little, while of New
Hanover — possibly the most interesting of all, on the principle of" Omne
ignotum pro magniflco " — we know next to nothing at all. To begin
with New Britain. There are three subjects which appear to interest
the students of savage races more than any others. Firstly, their laws
and ceremonies of marriage, rights of succession to property on account
of such marriages, and degrees of relationship resulting from them, and
the manner in which their relations by marriage should be treated or
ignored. Secondly, their superstitions and the ceremonies which attend
them ; and, thirdly ,the social laws by which they are governed and which
control them as to their determination to go to war with their neigh-
bours. Under this last heading also would come the rights of property
and the manner iu which it is held, a very comprehensive subject, which
the limits of this paper will only permit me to touch on lightly. It is
obvious that these are subjects which cannot be completely mastered by
any one whose residence in the country has not been of considerable
duration. The native, as a rule, does not like to be questioned.
He credits the white man with possessing universal knowledge,
and often imagines he is being made a fool of, and will return evasive
or untrue answers. In questioning them about their superstitions
they usually show the greatest reluctance to answer.
In New Britain there are some customs they are absolutely forbidden
to talk of, and some words [they dare not name. It is evident, there-
fore, that the investigator has to rely principally on his own powers of
observation, as he cannot get much reliable information on many points
from the natives by word of mouth.
To begin with the marriage laws. The parents of a child betroth
him or her usually at a very early age. If it is a boy he has got to
work for and pay for his wife before he can marry her, and the sum to
be paid is agreed on, having due consideration for the means of the
betrothed. The sum is never fixed at too low a price, and it constantly
happens that the intended husband is middle-aged before he can marry.
Sometimes he gets impatient and persuades his betrothed to elope with
THE ISLANDS OF THE NEW BRITAIN GROUP. 9
him, but he dare not return to his tribe if he takes so extreme a step as
this. Usnally when the price stipulated on is nearly paid, the husband
builds a small house in the bush at some distance from his village. He
then persuades his fiancee to elope with him, but this time with the
knowledge of her parents. A complete farce is then acted. When they
have had time to get well away, the girFs father discovers that she has
been abducted, the bridegroom's father pretends to sympathise with him
and vows vengeance against his son for disgracing him. They waste
more time in assembling the relatives on either side and preparing a
big feast together. The whole conversation consists of threats against
their unnatural offspring. When they have finished their feast they
arm and paint themselves as if for war, and off they sally into the bush
in search of the absconding couple. They know exactly were to go,
however, which simplifies matters a good deal, as they have had precise
information as to where the little house in the bush has been built.
When they arrive there they find the couple gone. They would
probably be very much at a loss what to do if they had not gone. They
bum the house, however, and return home where they consume more
food. In the morning the yoang couple are back in the village as if
nothing had happened, and no further notice is taken of them. The
price originally fixed as the price of the girl has, however, to be
eventually paid.
It is the habit as far as possible to betroth children to other children
belonging to the same tribe, and as many of the tribes are very small,
it is not a habit which tends to improve the race. As far as I have been
able to ascertain, they do not recognise the relationship of first cousins.
In fact in a small tribe nearly all the members of it must be cousins to
each other.
I have observed in parts of New Britain, perhaps it is universal, that
brothers seem to have common interests. One brother often helps to
pay for his brother's wife, and if he died or was killed would probably
take her into his house to live with his other wife or wives. She would
in every sense belong to him, and her social position would be as secure
as formerly.
There is one curious bond of sympathy between these people and
their civilised brethren. It is doubtless a prejudice in civilisation,
and admits of exceptions. Among the New Britons it admits of no
exceptions, and is as stem a law as those of the Medes and Persians. A
man must not speak to his mother-in-law. He not only must not speak
to her, he must avoid her if ho possibly can ; he must walk miles out of
his way to avoid her path ; if ho meets her suddenly he must hide, or if
he has no time to hide his body he must hide his face. What calamities
would result from a man accidentally speaking to his mother-in-law, no
native imagination has yet been found equal to conceive. Suicide of
one or both would probably be the only course. There is no reason
10
THE ISLANDS OF THE NEW BRITAIN GROUP.
that th© woman should not speak to her father-in-law, but for the
mother-io-law there is no mercy* She muflt, in the ordinaiy course
of events, in native communities, eventnallj liecome a mother-
in-law, but she is powerless to struggle against fate, and I for one
have never seen her make anj effort to tlo so. It would take too
long to discuss the subject of BucccBsion of property. It is enough
to say that the mother's property, if she have any, may descend accord-
ing to circumst-ances to her daughter or her son, or go to neither, and
tlie fathers may be disposed of in the same impartial way. There are
tribal rights, family, and individual rights to be oonsiderod, and there-
fore the question becomes a somewhat complicated one.
One curious feature in the New Britain marriages, and one I should
think most galling to the hueband, is that oecasionally, after he has
worked for years to pay for his wife, and is finally in a position to
take her to his house, she refuses to go. Human nature, I suppose, is
the same all over the world, but engagements are longer in New Britain
than in more civilised countries, and the disappointment is proportion-
ately greater. Oddly enough, he is not supposed to have a grievance^
nor can he claim back from her parents the vast eums he has paid them
in yams, coco-nuta, and sugar-canes. He certainly would have the
right of killing any one who presumed to elope with the woman he had
worked for so loug ; but she seldom plays her cards so badly as to com-
promise herself in a public manner. He has to submit, and no one
pities him. It is the custom of the country, and no doubt he submits
to it with the best grace he ca,n.
It is difficult to say whether they have any actual religion. Super-
stitions they have in plenty, and they believe in malignant epirita^ but
not in beneficent ones. The malignant spirit has, on many occasions^
to be propitiated with gifts* There are men who aro sorcerers by trade,
and they exert an immense influence in their tribes, and not unfro-
(juently amass considerable fortunes. The devices they employ for im-
posing on their neighbours bear a strange similarity to some of those
iised by the witches of old in our own country. Figures of challc or
stalactite, or even stone, could be bought and buried in the bush» and the
man in whose likeness they had been carved, was pretty eure to die
very soon afterwards, 'J'he natives have often pointed out to me
epofs in the jungle where some of these images had been buried,
but they would never help me to look for them. I found three or four
with great difficulty, and tho natives would run shrieking from
mo if they saw me carrying them home. It was impossible for mo
to keep them in my house, as no native would work for me whOo they
were in my possession. I therefore pretended to destroy them, and had
them buried behind my house till I could take them safely out of the
country. The native is veiy careful to destroy the remnants of his
meals. Things lik© banana skins, fish-bones, <fec., aro burnt, as ho
THE ISLANDS OF THE NEW BRITAIN GROUP. 11
imagines that if an enemy of his were to steal and bury them, he
would shortly sicken and die. Numerous other superstitions they have,
but the most remarkable one of all I will describe briefly.
Visitors to New Britain, who have seen the ceremony of the duk-
duk as it is called, have not always agreed as to its exact significance.
It is a very difficult matter to get natives to speak of it at all, as they
imagine that by doing so to a man who is not duk-duk, that is to say,
initiated into the mysteries of this superstitious rite, they will forfeit
the good will of the restless spirit they fear so much. I will describe
how I first saw a duk-duk in New Britain, and give my idea as to
the meaning of the performances it went through. It is supposed
to be a spirit which makes its appearance at daybreak of the day on
which the new moon appears. It invariably comes from the sea, and
as soon as there is sufficient daylight for the purpose, two or three
canoes lashed together, and having a square platform built over them,
are seen slowly advancing towards the beach. The whole community
is drawn up to receive them, and they sit in solemn silence, waiting for
the moment when the canoes shall touch the beach. On the platform of
the canoe are two figures leaping and gesticulating violently, and
uttering short shrill cries. They are covered with a loosely made robe
or tunic made of the leaves of the hibiscus woven together. On their
heads they wear a conical-shaped hat some six feet in height which
completely conceals the features. On it is painted a most grotesque
human face. Nothing can be seen of the man inside this dress but the
l^s from the knee downwards.
The dress is supposed to be an imitation of a cassowary with a
human head. When the two figures land they execute a little dance
together, and run about the beach with a short hopping step, still
keeping up the imitations of the cassowary. Not a native stirs or utters
a sound, they appear to be very much frightened and there is a very
nervous look on their faces. The duk-duk is to stay with them nearly
a fortnight, and during that period he is absolutely at liberty to do what-
ever he pleases. No woman is allowed to look on him, in fact the
women have long ago disappeared and are all hidden in the bush. After
a time the duk-duk dances off into the jungle, and the natives get up and
move off slowly to the village. The same evening an immense quantity of
food is brought in, and piled in the centre of the square in the village. As
each man brings his contribution the duk-duk dances round him ; if he
is satisfied he utters his shrill yelp, and if ho is displeased he deals the
wretched man a tremendous blow with a club. However, nearly every-
one brought sufficient food when I saw the ceremony, and very few re-
ceived the blow with the club. This done, the men all squatted in a
circle in the square, and then began what could have been nothing but a
ceremony of initiation. A large bundle of stout canes was brought, each
one being six feet long, and as thick as a man's little finger. No sooner
12
THi: ISLANDS OF THE NEW BRITAIN GROUP,
was this done, than five or six yoting raen jumped tip, and holding their
arma high above their heads, received a trenienduua blow apieco from
the duk-diik. The caoe curled round their bodies with a loud crack, and
drew blood at every stroke. But in no case did I see a sign of iiinching
or pain. Immediately their places wcro taken by other young men^ and
at the end of the performance, each man standing up in succession had
received six or seven tremendous blows. For about ten days the same
thing was repeated, and the yonng men who were {qualifying themselves
to be admitted into the mysteries of the duk-dnk must have been truly
glad when those spirits left them in jjeace. The performance was varied
occasionally by the duk-duk taking a club and giving the unfortunate
neophyte a ti-emendous blow in the back. It was considered the right
thing to throw something down in the path of the duk-duk» if one
met him accidentally, so I invariably carried a supply of tobacco in my
pockets while we entertained these visitors, as they had a most dis-
agreeable habit of popping out suddenly upon you from the bush and
dancing round you,
I believe the origin and meaning of the whole performance to bo this.
It is interjded to be a power held over the young men by the old ones.
The duk-duk is always said to belong to souie old man who lias sum*
moned it from the sea. In a country where the chiefs of tribes have
little or no authority the young men want a great deal of keeping in
order. They are carefully kept in ignorance of all the mysteries of the
duk-duk. They do not know who is actually dancing in the dre^g, but
they do know that they may be killed by him if the old men have
ordered it 80» and no one would interfere to prevent it. Again, the old
men to whom the spirit belongs get an immense quantity of food con*
tributed to them, and this is a matter of importance, ai when they
become too old to work in their gardens they are likely to fare badly.
In Now Guinea there exists a 8imilar custom, different only in a few
unimportant details. I often had considerable difficulty in getting a
boat's crew to go up and do%vn the coast wnth nie^ as it was always
necessary for me to get men w^ho knew the proprietors of duk-duks at
the different places we were to visit. In New Britain and New Ireland
the people are warlike, hut tbey are fonder of killing their enemies by
cunning and treachery than of meeting them in the open field. For this
reason it is imprudent to allow natives to walk behind you, unless you
are in a place where you know them well, and can trust them.
I did, however, on one occasion see a very big native battle, in which
the attacking force must have numbered nearly one thousand men. The
tribe with whom I was then staying was also in unusually strong force^
or else I am afraid they would have fared badly. They had sent for all
their friends to meet me, and the result was that they outnumbered the
attackiug force, and inflicted on them a crushing defeat.
All, or nearly all the canoes in which they had come were seized,
THE ISLANDS OF THE NEW BRITAIN GROUP. 13
the enemy was driven along the beach for 15 or 20. miles, and many of
them were killed and subsequently eaten. It would take too long to
describe the battle. As in the case formerly of the Fijian battles the
combatants had to work themselves up to the requisite amount of fury
by insulting each other, dancing in front of their ranks and boasting of
the deeds they were prepared to accomplish. The women and children
accompanied their fighting men into battle, and took up a position in
the rear of their army. Whenever one of the enemy was killed, his
body was passed back to the women and was by them conveyed to some
village to await the return of their Iprds and masters. I was, I imagine,
exceptionally fortunate in being a witness of this battle. The enemy
had evidently been preparing for it for years, their canoes were new,
and no doubt they supposed that they would inflict on my friends a
crushing defeat. They could not have known that I and my little
party were staying where we were, or that they would find the tribe
in such strong force. Of course I did not allow my boat's crew of
&lomon Islanders who accompanied me, and were armed with rifles, to
take any part in the fight.
As I have alluded to the fact of the men who were killed being eaten
afterwards, I may as well say here a few words on the subject of
cannibalism, both in New Britain and New Ireland.
Cannibalism is at the present day a far more common thing than it is
generally supposed to be. On the other hand, people talk very loosely
about it, and many tribes, especially in New Guinea, are supposed to
practise it who have never done so. I cannot absolutely say from my
own knowledge that the natives of New Britain are cannibals, though I
have every reason to suppose they are. If you ask a man point-blank,
as I have often done, if he has ever helped to eat any one, he will deny
it for himself, but say that so-and-so did.
They usually appear to be very much ashamed of the practice. That
this is not always the case, however, I will presently show. Some eight
years ago in Fiji, the Governor, Sir Arthur Gordon, was paying a visit to
a mountain chief, who had recently been reconciled to the British occupa-
tion and government. The conversation turned on cannibalism, and
the impression that he tried to give us was, that he had heard of such a
custom, but that none of his people had ever been guilty of it.
A missionary had some time previous to our visit been murdered in
the very district in which we were, and had undoubtedly been eaten,
and parts of his body had been sent by our host to friends of his
belonging to other tribes. He admitted that he had been eaten, by
whom he said he did not know ; for his part, he said, the idea of eating
white man was extremely repulsive to him, as they smoked strong
tobacco and drank whisky. On this an old man in the crowd, forgetting
his manners and duty to his chief, sprang up and said, '< It is a lie ; he
was as good as any one else, and you know it." His feelings had
14
THE ISLAKDS OF THE NEW BRITAm GROUP.
carried Hm away to such an extent that he at all events admitted having
Lolped to eat %%^hite man.
In New Ireland, where immediately after the fight I have alluded
to I saw them eat the men who had fallen, there appeared to be no
shame and no pretence of concealment. They did it, they said, because
they liked it, and they had no objection whatever to my hoing a witness
of their proceedings- I am aware that to most people it must be an
unpleasant subject, bnt I think I may venture to describe soMo of the
incidents which occurred on the occasion to which I refer.
The bodies having been huug up by the necks till the return of the
warriors, are scalded with boiling water and scraped with the sharp
bamboo knife of the country* During this operation, which is per-
formed by the old women, the former merits and accomplishments of
each one are discussed with jokes and roars of laughter. This finished,
they are taken down and laid on mats. In the village in which I was
watching the proceedings^ there were six bodies to be operated on.
They were cut up by a very old man who kept up an incessant chatter
while he performed his duty. Certain parte were kept, the thigh and
shiD bones for instance, and were no doubt intended to serve as spear-
handles at a later date. Each portion was wrapped in many envelopes
of stout leaves by the women, and when ail the bodies bad been
cut up they w^ere placed in the ovens which bad been previously
prepared for their reception. The process of cooking took nearly four
days, and during that time the w^ildest dances and feasting im.aginable
went on. The heads, however, were reserved for a special purjTose, The
natives of New Ireland eat a preparation of sago and coco-nut called
sak-sak. The brains of these unfortunate men were to be added as jjk
third ingredient. I used to buy eak-eak daily for my Solomon Island
crew, but it is needless to say that for the remainder of my stay in
New Ireland I did not do so. I have no doubt in my mind, however,
that my boat's crew possessed themselves of some of this disgusting
mixture and ate it. It is impossible to describe more than the most
noticeable features of this banquet. The details were intensely horrid
and disgusting, and the women peemed to me to be more brutal and
Bavage than the men. Though I did not remain with them absolutely
to the end of the business, I was told that for many days afterwards the
natives do not wash at all, as they try to imagine that some trace of their
disgusting meal will cling to them.
The trade of these islands is principally carried on between the
coast natives and those who livo in the interior. The coast
natives exchange salt for the food which the bush natives cultivate.
There are certain well-kno\\Ti market-places where they constantly
meet, and their negotiations with each other not unfrequently end in a
fight. The trade with the whites is principally in coco-nuts. "When I
was there twenty coco^nuts could he bought for one stick of tobacco.
THE ISLANDS OF THE NEW BRITAIN GROUP.— DISCUSSION. 16
One stick of tobacco represented the twentieth part of a shilling, there-
fore four hundred coco-nuts could be bought for a shilling. The kernel
of the nut cut up and dried in the sun makes a very valuable article of
commerce called copra. It is used for making candles, and the refuse
makes excellent cake for cattle. It takes about 7000 ordinary nuts to
supply one ton of copra. In those days a ton would have cost on the
spot about 3Z., and as its market value in Europe was from 162. to 20/.,
the trade was a profitable one. These prices, of course, do not exist
now, but I have no doubt the trade still continues to pay. Tortoise-
shell is bought in considerable quantities from the natives, also pearl-
shell of an inferior quality, and b§che-de-mer. Beche-de-mer is a large
salt-water slug which inhabits the coral reefs. It is split open, boiled,
and smoked, and when thus prepared is worth from 50Z. to 120Z. a ton
in the Chinese market.
Between white men and natives, tobacco is the only money employed.
Between the natives themselves a shell money is used, called by them
de-warra. The de-warra is a very diminutive cowry, and the money is
supposed to come from the northern end of New Britain. Hundreds of
these little shells are threaded on immensely long strips of split cane.
A fathom of de-warra may possibly be taken as the legitimate tender,
that is to say, a piece of de-warra is broken off of the length of the
extreme stretch of a man's arms extended. Seven fathoms would formerly
purchase a good pig, and I have heard of cases where a man's death
could be compassed for the same amount. Such is the value of human
life in New Britain.
In conclusion, I will say that I consider the country to be one suited
to white colonisation. It presents the richest soil, a climate no worse
than that of other groups, and not so bad as that of New Guinea,
and the people, though undoubtedly savage and suspicious, can easily be
managed by firmness, and consideration for their habits and traditions.
They make fairly good labourers when not taken away from their own
homes, and I see no reason why the extremes of savage and civilised
life should not meet on. amicable terms in this young country. The
Germans, to whom it now belongs, have a most responsible duty before
them, and the success or failure of this young colony of theirs depends
entirely on the view they take of their obligations to its natural
owners.
Before the paper.
The Chaibman (Sir Hknby Rawlinsok) said that Mr. Bomilly had been for six
or seven years in the Pacific as a (Commissioner on behalf of the British Government,
and had visited faost of the principal islands. He had also written a book which
was a model for the travellers of the present day, being both amusing and in-
stmctive. After Mr. Romilly had read his paper on New Britain, the meeting
would be fiivoured with additional remarks by a gentleman who knew probably
more of the geography of the Western Pacific than any other living man, the
Bev. George Brown, who had published a dictionary and grammar of the language,
and who would answer any questions on the subject.
16
THE ISLAKDS OF THE NEW BRITAJN GROUP.— DISCUSSION.
After tbe pap<?r,
The Rev. Geor«e Bbown^ said that Ins experitnce of New Britain and New
Irektjd dated from the year 1875^ when he landed there in comixiEy with a party of
Fijians aBtl Satuoans, He had previously s[)eiit botweeti fourteen and fifteen years
in Samoa. At the date of his landuig there was not a nin^le white nian in the
group. A few white men !md previously called at Port Hunter, but there was no one
resident there at the time. He landed on Dake of York Island, and had explored in
ot>0& boats from a point near Cape Or ford on the south-east coast » round Cape
Lambert and along the north-we»t coast to the '* Father and Sous " volcanoes
opposite to the I)ui>ortLul lalatKla, He had tilso explored the whole of the west
coast of New Ireland, and had landed at New Hanover and had coiiimunicjitioQ
with the natives. There were not many places in the South Seas of which so
little was known as New Britain, Si>eaking of the early discoveries Mr. Brown said
that the Solomon Group was discovered by the Spfiniards, under Mendana, in 1567.
Mendana made las second voyage to Santa Crua in 1595 and died there. The
earliest distinct notice of the discovery of any of the New Britain islands was in
the account of Le Maire and Schonten^s voyages in 16I6> when they sighted and
named St, John's Island and Fischer s Island, and so must of course have also seen
the mainland of New Ireland, In 1643, Tasman saw Kt. John's Island, Cape 8t,
Maria, and discovered Antliony Kaana and Gerritt Dcnys Islands. All these
navigators thought at this time that New Ireland and New Britain formed part of
the mainland of New Guinea. This was first disproved by Dumpier in 1700, who
sailed through what is now known as Dampier'a Straits, In 17*17, Captain Carteret
was drifted by strong currents u|> Dampier's Wide Bay, so called, and found it to be
a wide open channeL Tnis he called St. George*s Channel, and named the land on the
east side New Ireland. He had landed at Fort Carteret and had taken possession
of the island in the name of H.M. George III, Bougainville visited the same place
in 17G8. Captain Hunter vi^iited and named Port Hunter, Duke of York Island, in
1701. After ibis there wjls the voyaije of the CoquiUe in 1823, and that of the
Astrolabe in 1827, H.M.S, Stdphur in 1840, and H.M.S. Bianche about 1872. On a
small island in Blanche Bay, called Hatupit^ or Matupi, some months before he (Mr.
Brown) landed there in liJ75, two German traders had landed, but after remaining
a few weeks they were burnt out by the natives, and sliot five of them in escaping to
tlifjir boats* That was the bst attempt to settle in New Britain previous to his
landing. He (Mr. Brown) crossed the New Ireland range at an altitude of 3000 feet,
and went down to the opposite coast. One of his experiences was a very suggestive
one. He had immense difliculty in getting any natives to accompany him scroes the
range. By bribery he got them past two villa;j;es, and then they wanted to go back.
He ttdd them they ctvnld go if they liked. They replifed, ** You must go back with
us," but this he refused to do, and they dared not return alone as they were afraid of
being killed to make a meal for the other villagers if they did so, and so ultimately ,
they went on. One of the houses had a ridge pole some ten feet high with the roof
coming down to the ground. The ridge pole was covered with alligator and other
bones, while the brtttena were covered with jaw bones of pigs. On one f^articuIar
batten he counted tbirty-five jaw bones of people who had been eaten in that house,
some black with smoke, some brown, and some not long picked, and he felt thankful
that his own was so far safe, and in its proper position and place. He was in the
neighbourhood at the time of the great volcanic eruption, and might say that he
had landed on a very new iiiland indeed. A L<jndon correspondent of the Mel-
bourne ArguSf wishing to be funny, v\Tote that he Imd been accustomed to sub-
scribe to a library of fiction, but he should discontinue to do so, because he had
read in a scientific paper called Nature, that the water in a certain bay in New
THE ISLANDS OF THE NEW BRITAIN GROUP.— DISCUSSION. 17
Britain became so hot that the fish came up already cooked. The fact was, that
though the bay was five or six miles across, and no bottom was found up the
centre with a thirty-fathom line until a cablets length off the shore was reached, no
man oouUl bear his feet in the water for ten days after the eruption, and the
fish came up overcooked. Tortoiseshell was obtained from the Hawksbill turtle
by burning the fish (which accounted for the marks on the shell), but many
turtle had been so much cooked that the shells had floated away from them. He
had many times sailed over the very spot where that little island now was. When
he first landed on it the soil was so hot that no native could stand on it. There was
an immense crater of boiling water, and he wished to find out if it communicated
with the sea. The whole island was hissing at every pore, and he managed to
ascertain that the centre did communicate with the sea. It certainly was thrown up
from the bottom of the sea at a place where there was a shallow reef at the time.
Mr. Romilly had mentioned the superstition about mothers-in-law, but he ought to
have stated that the mother-in-law was quite as much frightened at the son-in-law.
When he (Mr. Brown) was translating the Gospel of St. Mark, he, of course, had to
translate the passage about Herod swearing to give the damsel what she asked, even
to the half of his kingdom, and he had to investigate the question of the natives* idea
of an oath, and he found that the most solemn oath a man could take was, *' Sir, if I
am not telling the truth I hope I may shake hands with (or touch the hand of) my
mother-in-law." He did not know whether Mr. Romilly had travelled up the west
coast of New Ireland, but there were some very large rivers there. He had seen
some large rivers, such as the Topaia, which gave its name to a district, and indeed
New Ireland, on its west side, was one of the best watered islands in the world. The
rivers partook more or less of the nature of mountain torrents, and were very soon
dried up. Mr. Komilly was quite correct in stating that six feet of strung shells might
be taken as the standard of value. The New Ireland money was measured from
breast to breast, and the singular thing among such a people was that they had
words for " buy " and " sell," and " borrow " and " lend," and " redeeming " a pledge.
They also lent out money at ten per cent interest, and had a word which could only
be translated as " selling off at a sacrifice," or *' selling under cost price." The
marriage customs differed, but as a general rule a man had to pay for his wife. In
New Britain when a man proposed he ran away, and there was a lot of crying when
they were betrothed, as though they were ashamed of what they had done. He
had been told that the concluding ceremony in one district was this. The young
couple were brought together in the square, and presents were made by the married
women to the girl, consisting of little baskets, digging sticks, &c. Then the chief
would come with a great spear and point in one direction, and spear the stem of a
banana, and then do the same thing in another direction, and so on, to represent the
number of men he had killed. It was a symbolical way of narrating his deeds of
valour. If he had killed a man with a tomahawk, he would strike with his tomahawk
at an unfortunate banana; if he had killed him with a spear he would spear the
banana. Of course he was paid for the performance. The last presents were made
by the brother or father to the young man. The first present was a spear, to signify
that the young lady was committed to his charge, and that he was her natural pro-
tector. Next, they gave him a broom to give to his wife, as a symbol of her domestic
duties, and to indicate that she must keep the house clean. Outside, the villages
were all remarkably clean. The third present to the bridegroom was a small sap-
ling, with which he was to beat his wife if she did not attend to her duties. With
regeml to the duh-duk, he asked what was the meaning of the tremendous blows
that were given, and he was told that those who were struck were supposed to be
killed. Their religion was that of all primitive peoples — that the dead were round
No. I.— Jan. 1887.] c
18 THE ISLANDS OF THE NEW BRITAIN GROUP.— DISCUSSION.
and about them. With regard to cannibalism, he had known many instances of it,
and was once at a place where the natives were cooking part of a human body within
a few yards of him, but he did not know it at the time. There were, however, many
who never tasted human flesh, and in most cases the eating of human flesh was a
religious rite.
Sir Geobge Bowen congratulated Mr. Romilly on the very able and interesting
paper which he had read. He himself had been connected with Australasia for
20 years, as Governor successively of Queensland, New Zealand, and Victoria, and of
course he took the most lively interest in that quarter of the globe. Mr. Romilly
had done good work in the islands which he had visited, and it was well known that
he could also write good descriptions of what he had seen. But one point had not
been alluded to in the paper, and that was the political relations of the Pacific
islands with France and Germany, as well as with Great Britain. He was con-
vinced that a time would soon come when it would be considered desirable to have
a formal federation of the Australian colonies. The colonists had strong views
respecting the Pacific islands, but those views often differed. There should be an
Australasian Dominion, like the Dominion of Canada, which would speak with a
single voice of authority for all the British colonies in the Pacific. That voice
would command respect both in England and on the continent of Europe. More-
over, an Australasian federation would be a great step towards the desired federation
of the entire British empire. Such a federation would probably form a friendly
alliance with the great English-speaking federation in America; and the world
would thus see a Fax Britannica, far transcending what Pliny called the Immensa
Romanes pacts majestaa,
Mr. DsiiMAB MoBGAN Said the allusion to the duk-duk reminded him of what
he had seen among the natives of the Congo, who bad a practice called Inhimpi^
which appeared to be a kind of Dovitiate through which the yoimg men passed for a
certain time, during which they removed themselves from all intercourse with their
friends, and painted their bodies white. At the end of this probationary period
there was a grand ceremony admitting them to a kind of Freemasonry.
The Chaibmak, in concluding the meeting, said that tbey were indebted to both
the author of the paper and to Mr. Brown for the instruction and entertainment they
had afforded. Mr. Romilly had already written one book, and it was to be hoped
that he would write many more. Mr. Brown had copious manuscript notes, and
had devoted himself to other subjects besides the mere keeping of a diary, a proof of
which he had given in his admirable Dictionary and Grammar of the native lan-
guage, a MS. copy of which he had liberally presented to the Society. He would
recommend all travellers inihose seas to make a really serious attempt to classify and
affiliate the Papuan and Melanesian languages. Until vocabularies were issued, which
could be compared, it would not be possible to understand how those islands were
originally settled and populated. It was a very interesting branch of linguistic
ethnology. Mr. Brown had made a great step in advance in a book which was still
in manuscript, and he hoped it would be extended so as to point out the analogies
between the New Britain languages and others further afield. In conclusion he
proposed a vote of thanks to both Mr. Romilly and Mr. Brown.
( 19 )
Journey of the Expedition under Colonel Woodthorpe, -&,"&., from Upper
Assam to the Irawadi, and return over the Patkoi Range.
By Major C. E. Maogregor, 44tli Kegiment (Ghurka Light Infantry).
(Bead at the Evening Meeting, December 13tb, 1886.)
Hap 9 p. 68.
I PROPOSE this evening to read to you a paper describing an exploration
made in the beginning of last year by a distinguished Fellow of your
Society (Colonel R. G. Woodthorpe) and myself, from Sadiya, on the
upper waters of the Brahmaputra, to the Kampti Shan country, on the
western branch of the Irawadi, and to give yo\i a brief account of the
various tribes we met en route. The country through which we
travelled lies between the north-east extremity of the province of Assam
and the upper waters of the Irawadi.
As the mountain chains here lie in a general north and south direction,
contrary to the Himalaya, which lie east and west, our route necessarily
had to cross the ranges.
After leaving Sadiya, the route lay more or less through thick and
tangled forests along the banks of the Dihing river for about 125 miles
up to Kiimki (altitude 3600 feet). On leaving Kiimki, the country
became mountainous, though still densely wooded, until we crossed the
Ohaukan range (altitude 9000 feet) and descended into the Bor Kampti
valley, where we found a series of plateaus of a more open character,
the hills, however, on either side of the valley continuing as thickly
forest-clad as on the Assam side of the range.
The country through which we travelled being very sparsely in-
habited (a week may elapse without the voyager coming across a
habitation of any kind), there are of course no regular paths, and the
route lies either along the rocky beds of mountain torrents, or, should
these be impassable owing to heavy rains, in the tracks of elephants or
other wild denizens of the jungle. A system of blazing the trees, by
the hillmen, which obtains in these regions, enables the traveller to
thread his way through the seemingly trackless forests. On leaving
Sadiya, the most important link in the chain of frontier outposts on the
extreme north-east of the province of Assam, the tribes wo met were
Kamptis, Singphos or Kakhyens (Singpho merely meaning ** a man " in
their language), Mishmis, Nagas and, in a valley of the Nam-kiu river,
Kunnungs, famed for their skill in manufacturing sword-blades and in
extracting silver from the ore which abounds in the country they
inhabit, and various specimens of barbarous tribes, such as Meeros, &c.,
who are neighbours, of the Kampti Shans.
The climate of the country through which our route lay is excessively
moist. During the months of November, December, January, and
February there is supposed to be a cessation in the constant downpour ;
c 2
2a
EXPEDITIOS FUOM UPPER ASSAM TO TflE IRAWADI,
Imt tine 18 only Dominally the case, as even in tbo months mgntione^l
we found that ficarcely a day passed without rain, and I recollect that it
rained in torronfg, day and night, the whole of one week in January.
The effect of this almost ceaselefis downpour is, that an enormous quantity
of water finds its way to the west of the wateri>arting of the Chaukan
niid Patkoi ranges into the Brahmaputra, Tia the Dihing and other riverej,
and to the e^i&t into the Irawadi, via the Num-lung and numerous
other rivers, the drainage from the Xaga Hills to tho south being
absorbed into tho Ky end wen river winch joins the Irawadi below
Mandalay, Last March, a most interesting paper, on a jonrney he
made up the Eyendwen in 188 1 j was read to you by Mr. Annan Eryce.
Since our annexation of Upper Btiroja it iij of course important that
we should have as many fmuds as possible in tho tribes of the far
north, and although the Kampti Shans, whom wo visited, are not a
very numerous clan (I should say that the %vhole commimity does not
exceed 12,000 souls), 3^et, owing to their superior civilisation^ — superior
when contrasted wiih the eemi-barbarism of their neighbours — they
would prove of use to us ; they certainly showed their willingness to be
fiiendl}^ in every way*
Before commencing the narrative account of owr journey I must not
forget to mention that we were not the first EuropeauB to visit tht^
country of the Kampti Shans, In 1826, Lieuts. Wilcox and Burl ton
with an escort of twenty Kampti militia, visited Manchi from Sadiya,
Their route coincided with ours, or I'athcr ours coincided with theirs*
for two days* march from the mouth of the Bapha river. From thence
the travellers, probably not having been told of the somewhat easier
and more direct route via Kiimki and the Chaukan Pass into the valley
of the Nam-kiu, turned their steps more to the north and crossed the
Phuugan range at a higher altitude than w*e did. Wilcox did not visit
i'adao or Lao gnu and Laugdau (Mutig Lung), as at that time (sixty
years ago), the people of Manchi were at war with their neighbours,
Wilcox's narrative teems with information of various kinds, and we
(Woodthori>e and I) often wished we bad known him and could compare
notes. No man, except perhaps W^oodthorpe, has done so much for the
geography of the north-east frontier as Wilcox,
On the 19tb of December, 1881, our party, conjiisting of Colonel
Woodthorpo, b.e,, Mr. ^L Ogle (Survey Department J, Mr. T. Digges La
Toucho (Geological Survey), Dr, D, Grant, and an escort under my
command of forty-five men of the 44th (Gurkha Light Infantry) and
twenty men of the Frontier Police, together with the usual eomplemtiut
of native surveyors, coolies, &c., left Sadiya and commenced operations
by exploring up tho Koa Dihing river. The whole of the party was in
the charge of Colonel Woodthorpe, the survey officer on the north-east
frontier.
The route from Sadiya to Indong, a Siogpho village situated on tko
■
AND RETURN OVER THE PATKOI RANGE, 21
right bank of the Noa Dihing river, and distant from Sadiya 54 miles,
needs but little description. We were obliged to cut our way through
the tangled jungle, and so free a passage for our elephants, carrying the
provisions and baggage of our party. It took us six days to accomplish
this journey. En route we passed several Kampti and Singpho villages,
which we visited, chatting with the inhabitants, sometimes through
the medium of an interpreter, and at others conversing in Assamese,
which is more or less the " lingua Franca " on the British side of the
frontier.
At one Eampti village I noticed that the inhabitants had decorated
<he graves of their relations with flowers and flags, and was informed
that it was customary to do so periodically, like our neighbours across
the Channel on All Saints' Day. At another village, of which the great
majority of the inhabitants were Singphos (who are by religion spirit-
worshippers), we found a Buddhist temple and school, which had been
erected principally through the generosity of the head man, who was a
Singpho ; this was quite an exceptional instance of unsectarian conduct.
On Tisiting the school we found about a dozen boys being taught by the
yellow-robed Buddhist priest, who showed us over the temple. The
priest informed us that the paper ho used for writing on was manu-
factured out of a creeper, and also showed us a peculiar shaped fan
which was used during prayer. In the early morning the " b&pu " or
priest, and some of his disciples, walk through the village beating a
gong and calling people to pray, and also collecting provisions for the
day's consumption. At this village (Mung Lung) we obtained through
Mr. Needham (the Political Officer at Sadiya), who accompanied us thus
far, the services of a Kampti interpreter, called " Deori," who subse-
quently proved of great use to us when we visited the valley of the
Kampti Shans on the Irawadi. The Mr. Needham mentioned is the
same officer who, with Captain E. H. Moles worth, made the adventurous
journey to Eima on the Tibetan frontier early this year.
The chief of Mung Lung, a venerable looking man, arrayed in a
gorgeous flowered Chinese robe, did the honours of his village to us in
company with his newest and latest acquisition in the shape of a wife,
for whom, we were informed, that he had just paid 80/., 10 guns, 10
slaves, some buffaloes, and 200 beads, was present at a display of fire-
works which we gave on the banks of the river in the evening. At this
village, as indeed at all the others through which we passed, a Berthon's
collapsible boat, which Woodthorpe had brought with hi a), created a
good deal of wonder. This boat proved of the greatest service later
on in ferrying our party and baggage over rivers which were too deep
to be waded.
On Christmas Day we arrived at Indong. During our stay hero the
summits of two neighbouring peaks of 6000 and 7000 feet altitude were
cleared for survey purposes and temporary houses, storehouses, and a
22 EXPEDITION FROM UPPER ASSAM TO THE IRAWADI,
field hospital (where our clever and energetic young doctor dispensed
physic and gave advice to all comers) were erected. We had a constant
succession of visitors, comprising Kamptis, Singphos, Nagas, and
Mishmis, who were all hospitably received by Woodthorpe and his
party. Musical-boxes, wind-up toys, &c., were shown, tricks of various
kinds, and occasionally fireworks. The prevalent disease seemed to be
goitre, and a large amount of red iodide of mercury was given away ; so
fond indeed were the Singpho ladies of painting themselves, that their
necks, unlovely objects to view at any time, soon became masses of
blisters, and I should think most uncomfortable to their owners. It
was sought to impress upon our semi-barbarian visitors the benefits
which would accrue from vaccinaiion ; but they all 'drew the line'*
firmly there, and " would have none of it.*' Several specimens of coal
and of serpentine were brought in for the inspection of our geologist
(who was called the "stone man" by the natives). The ash of the
coal was rather coloured, but seemed of good quality ; the prices asked
by the Singphos for the serpentine appeared io us ridiculoualy large,
30Z. was asked for a lump 6 lbs. in weight. The Singphos informed
me that they had a good market for the serpentine on the Chinese
frontier.
The country round Indong was of a fiat uninteresting nature, tangled
forests and swamps reeking with malaria were the principal features.
A few clearances had been made by the Singphos on any high ground
which existed, for the cultivation of Indian corn and other articles of
food. During the winter, the Dihing river only runs in narrow
channels, and numerous grass-covered plains (locally called " Churs ")
exist several miles in length, forming large islands, inhabited by tigers^
buffaloes, and innumerable deer ; the last-named supplied our camp with
fresh meat, while the river yielded us occasional mahser) the Indian
salmon), obtained by the rod.
Before I proceed any farther with my narrative, I will try and
describe briefly the four principal tribes we came in contact with.
Probably the majority of my audience know all about them ; but some
may not.
First, the Kamptis, otherwise Shans, probably originally came from
China ; they are by religion Buddhists. Their history is, that three Shan
brothers founded settlements of the Shan race at Mogong in Burma, in
Assam, and at Bor Kampti on the Nam-kiu river. The Kamptis come
from the same stock as the Siamese, with whom I believe they are identical
in language, religion, customs, and dress. The Kamptis possess a written
character. Their language is monosyllabic, and very much accented.
Words spelt the same may express half a dozen different ideas, according
to the way they are pronounced.
Whilst among the Kamptis I compiled a vocabulary of about 600
words, and obtained a few specimens of their writing.
AND RETURN OVER THE PATKOI RANGE. 23
As I have before said, their religion is Buddhism, but in a somewhat
modified and tainted form, constant association with their neighbonrs,
who are spirit-worshippers, has imbued them with ideas foreign to the
true tenets of Buddhism. The dress of the men consists of a species of
kilt and a jacket, and that of the women of a petticoat and jacket, the
kilts of the men and dresses of the women resemble Scotch plaids, and
they possess, like the Scotch, a large number of patterns and checks.
The hair of the women is worn neatly coiled up and fastened with
silyer and bone pins. Amber earrings are in common use with both
sexes. Every male carries a sword in a wooden scabbard.
Secondly, the Singphos or Kakhyens belong to the Tibeto-Buiman
race and are spirit- worshippers. They have a tradition of a partial flood,
in which all the bad people in the plains were drowned ; but that one
fEonily was kept by a spirit at the top of a mountain, and from this family
Singphos (men) repeopled the plains, when the waters subsided, at
the end of eight ages of a man's life (about 500 years). The Singphos
have a tradition that in the very beginning, there existed on the
earth an old man (** TingU ") and an old woman (" Gumgai "). In the
skies dwelt two spirits (" Nats ") called Miitum and Muta. The terrestrial
beings had a son and a daughter ; the son wandered about the earth, but
the daughter was taken up to the skies by the celestial beings who
finally brought her down and married her to the wandering man. From
this pair sprang all men.
The marriage customs of the Singphos are simple. A youth should
marry his cousin, his mother's niece if possible. Should a cousin not
be available, the maternal uncle should arrange for a girl of his class.
Should he be unable to procure one, the uncle goes to another family
and says, " If you give me a girl for my nephew, I will pay you back
in kind when one of your family requires a bride." The father of the
youth then gives a feast and presents to the girl's family. Should the
bridegroom's father not be in a position to give presents, he gives or
Bells one of his daughters to the other family in lieu of presents.
A feast given by the parents of the bridegroom (differing from our
own custom), ratifies the marriage contract. It is customary for the
bride to prepare and serve out the food to the guests on this occasion.
The dress of the Singphos is almost similar to the Eamptis. The
men wear kilts and jackets, and the women petticoats and jackets.
Married women wear their hair tied on the crown of the head like the
men, unmarried women wear theirs tied close to the back of the neck
and fastened with silver pins. On the whole, the dress of the men is
comfortable and picturesque, and that of the women modest and neat.
During the time we were out on the exploration, I set myself the
task of learning the Singpho language, which I found very difficult.
My principal instructor was an interpreter and he was far from being
an enthusiastic tutor. I found him what children would call "very
24 EXPEDITION FROM UPPER ASSAM TO THE IRAWADI,
trying," and I dare say I was the same from his point of view. However,
I managed to collect a vocabulary of about 700 words, and to write a
rough outline grammar.
The Singpho language is peculiar for its combination of consonants,
which render its pronunciation difficult to a European. There are a
quantity of onomatopoeic words, principally the names of animals. Many
ideas, positive to our minds, such as bad, brave, are rendered negatively
in Singpho, as not good, not cowardly. The gender in the brute
creation is denoted in a peculiar way, by cutting off the first syllable of
the noun and adding 14 for the masculine, and cutting off the first
syllable and adding vi for the feminine, as shirong, a tiger. Bongl4 a
male tiger, and rongvi a tigress. I generally found my instructors
" childlike and bland," but the following little anecdote will show that
the veneer of his civilisation was only skin deep, and the interpreter
being scratched, the Shan appeared. One day whilst receiving my
lesson in the language, I happened to pull out my little Deringer pistol
with my pocket handkerchief. Deori pounced on the pistol at once, and
went into raptures over it. On my asking him why the little weapon
struck his fancy so much, he replied, " It would be so easy to cover it
up in the palms of both hands, approach a deadly enemy in an attitude
of prayer and reverence with outstretched palms and so quietly shoot
him through the head ! "
Thirdly, the Mishmis. Those whom we met belonged to the Meju
or middle clan. They are a small, active, and very dirty people, of a
Mongolian type, flat noses, almond-shaped eyes, &c. 'J'heir dress
consists of a kind of kilt and a woollen armless coat; their hair is
turned up and tied in a knot at ihe top of the head. The women were
neatly dressed, and some of them wore a broad band of thin silver round
their heads. The men are armed with a short sword, and either a bow
or a spear, a few have flint-lock muskets. A pouch of the skin of
some wild animal is generally carried over the shoulders, and contains
a pipe, tobacco, flint and steel, also some poison (aconite), to put on their
arrow heads. The Mishmis exchange poison and musk deer pods with
the Tibetans (whose neighbours they are) for clothing, salt, and swords ;
and they barter indiarubber, ivory, beeswax, and ginger, for salt,
opium, and clothing, with the inhabitants of Assam. The religion of the
Mishmis is a kind of spirit- worship. As is often the case among
barbarous tribes, the men are much vainer than the women ; both sexes,
however, distend the lobes of their ears with enonnous silver earrings.
I thought the men, especially the boys, had sweet and musical voices.
Fourthly, the Nagas. The few scattered hamlets of this clan are
situated on the north-western slopes of the Patkoi range. The Singphos
and Kamptis always spoke of these Nagas as being subject to them.
These people (who are quite distinct from the powerful Angami and
Lhota clans of Nagas to the south and west} are miserably poor and
AXD RETURN OVER THE PATKOI RANGE. 25
wear hardly any clothing ; their arms consist of spears, cross-bows, and
hatchets ; their religion is spirit-worship ; they are tattooed on the face,
legs, and arms ; their principal trade is in indiarubber.
I now take np the thread of my narrative. On the 12th of January,
having completed all arrangements for onr depot and got up necessary
supplies, I moved forward up the Dihing river, passing several Singpho
villages en route. At one of these villages I visited the chief at his
bouse. I was shown over the dwelling, which was, like all Singpho
houses, built on piles about five feet from the ground, the eaves of the
roof coming down to the level of the platform which fonned the floor of
the house. There seemed to be a plentiful supply of cats, which the
Singphos onomatopceically called " miau." In the house and below the
raised floor, pigs, fowls, and dogs abounded. The front of the house was
decorated with the horns of cattle slain for feasts. I was offered some
of the Singpho wine, called " shim," and out of courtesy tasted it, but
found, as I had suspected from my experience of Assam frontier liquor,
that it was very acid and most unpalatable unless one was extremely
thirsty.
On the 22nd Woodthorpe, having completed his survey work in the
neighbourhood, joined me on the right bank of the Dapha river, where
I had established a camp. The Dapha valley was about five miles long
and one mile wide ; it was covered with short grass, and abounded with
deer. A few tigers had also taken up their abode in the valley, a fact
which came unpleasantly home to our coolies, two of whom, poor
fellows, were carried out of camp at night by a man-eater, who was, I
am glad to say, eventually shot. In exploring the plateau to the east
of the valley I came across some wild elephants, who, luckily, were quite
as much frightened at my appearance as I was at theirs, and saved me
the trouble of running away by bolting with loud trumpetings into the
neighbouring forest.
From this valley we had hoped to have made the ascent of a peak
called Dapha Bum (16,000 feet), bum in the Singpho language meaning
mountain, but the route was found utterly impracticable, and no
guides were to be had, so the idea was reluctantly abandoned, and we
again started eastward, crossing the Dapha river waist-deep just above
its junction with the Dihing (or Diyung as it is locally called). Wo
toiled along the river-bed for three days, sometimes picking our way
over boulders of all sizes, from that of a cricket ball to that of a small
house, and at others climbing along the precipitous sides of cliffs,
making ladders of creepers and trees, or cutting footholds in the rocks
to enable our laden coolies (hill-porters) to got along. There had been
such a constant downpour of rain for these three days that the river-
bed became impassable, and we had to halt for the next three days on
some ledges of rock just above the water. When the flood subsided we
started forward again, road-making the whole way.
26 EXPEDITION FROM UPPER ASSAM TO THE IRAWADI,
Our freedom from acoidente on this as on many other occasions,
was principally dne to Woodthorpe's engineering skill, and the intre-
pidity of the Ghurkas of the escort, who would hang over the precipitous
side of the dangerous places, assisting the coolies with helping hands
and cheery advice as to the best disposal of their feet. The difficulties
of these marches were greatly increased by the heavy rain which,
flooding the river below, drove us to the cliffs above. Not to dwell too
long on the discomforts and difficulties, which, after all, are inseparable
from pioneering in a country such as the north-east frontier of India.
I may mention that we arrived at a place called Kumki on the 14th of
February, and right glad we were to get on a bit of level ground and
have a chance of drying our damp and mouldy clothes and bedding.
In the valley of Kiimki, which is triangular in shape and about two
miles in length by one in breadth, we found two largo Singpho
villages ; these villages had never before been visited by Europeans, and
at first tlieir attitude was a very sulky one, though we did all we could
to conciliate them ; the largest of the two communities did not bring in
the customary offering of a fowl and a handful of rice, so we stood on
our dignity (a good plan to adopt sometimes when dealing with semi-
barbarians), and refused to have anything to say to the people till the
usual presents were brought in by the head man. This was done
eventually, and then some red cloths were presented to the head men,
the musical-boxes were set going, and a display of fireworks given. The
inhabitants of this little valley, which is situated on the left bank of
the Diyiing river in East long. 96° 66' 4" and North lat. 27° 17' 10" at
3600 feet above sea-level, seemed to have a great idea of the power and
influence of the Eampti Shans on the Nam-kiu river, and very little of
that of the English. I think, however, that before we finally left the valley
their ideas underwent a considerable change, especially after they heard
how well the Bor Kamptis had treated us. I mention thi«, as although
Kiimki is only 125 miles to the east of Sadiya, yet the valley had never
before been visited by English representatives ; Wilcox in his journey
in 1826 having taken a more northerly direction after leaving the
Dapha river.
Whilst at Ktimki I inquired about the manufacture of gunpowder,
and was informed that the proportion of the three ingredients was as
follows :— in 100 parts — saltpetre 70, sulphur 15, and charcoal 15. The
Singphos obtain their nitre and charcoal locally, the sulphur they get
from Assam and Burma ; the powder is not granulated, and the Singphos
use enormous charges in their old flint-lock muskets. The survey
officers mapped out the surrounding country and we made several ex-
cursions to peaks ranging from 5000 feet to 7600 feet high, and distant
from one to four days' journey. (I reckon the distances in days and not
in miles, owing to the extreme inaccessibility of the country. On one
occasion it took us three days to cut our way to the summit of a
AND RETURN OYER TH£ PATKOI RANGE. 27
peak, from which the return journey to camp was performed in seven
hours.)
One narrow ridge along which we had to climb had a sheer cliff on
one side, and on the other a few bamboos, which were ornamented with
rings of sharp thorns at intervals of every three or four inches up the
stems ; of course, when the choice lay between lacerating one's hands
by holding on for support to the thorns on going down the precipice, it
" goes without saying " that we preferred the thorny Scylla to the rocky
Charybdis. In some places along these ridges the bamboo jungle was
so dense and matted together by the weight of the lately fallen
snow, that we had to cut our way with the Ghurka knife, often
disappearing bodily, slipping between the tangled masses of under-
growth, fortunate if we found our arms left free to commence the work
anew of cutting a way out. We noticed on some of the less precipitous
ridges where the stunted oak and the gorgeous rhododendron abounded,
that rhinoceros had travelled over them, probably when making their
way to the salt-licks in the valley of the Turong (the source of the
Khyendwen river). I have noticed the marks of wild elephants at even
higher altitudes than 7000 feet, but never before those of rhinoceros so
high.
Often when the survey officer has succeeded in surmounting all the
difficulties of the route up to the summit of a peak, which he has cleared
of its trees, he is foiled by the perversity of the atmosphere, which will
not afford him the view for which he came. I remember how, in 1875,
Colonel Godwin-Austen (who did such splendid survey work in the Sub-
Himalayan ranges on both banks of the Brahmaputra), Mr. Ogle, and I
remained one stormy week amid snow, sleet, and hail on Mount '* Shen-
gore," 7000 feet high, in tlie Daphla Hills, without getting a viewt We
were literally a week in the clouds.
On the 6th of March we were all back in camp at Kumki, not sorry
to have our feet once more on level ground. On going through a
Singpho village on our return, I, being anxious to air the little know-
ledge of the language I possessed, called out to (what appeared to me)
an ancient dame, addressing her as " Giiragai," old woman ; the lady was
very angry, and shouted out, " I am no more an old woman than you
are ; if you want to see an old woman, I will show you one," and going
into the house she produced from the fireside a little old wizened creature
whom she pushed forward, saying, "Now, there is an old woman for
you." I pacified the Singpho ladies with some tobacco, and retired,
feeling properly snubbed for having been so ungallant as to allude to a
lady's age.
On the 8th of March, having got up some supplies from our depot on
the Dapha river, we turned our faces eastwards again, and after ^yq days*
hard marching we arrived at the very head of the Dihing river, which
was here, at a height of nearly 8000 feet, a tiny rivulet, being near ita
28 EXPEDITION FROM UPPER ASSAM TO THE IRAWADI,
junction with the Brahmaputra, over a mile in width. We had great
difficulty in procuring a guide, and we had got two marches from Kiimbi,
when our guide announced his intention of returning. However, with
the bribe of a gun, we persuaded him to accompany us. The man
amused us much by sending off the gun by a slave to bo placed with
his Lares and Penates at his village, and on being interrogated as his
reason, he replied, " Who knows what will happen to your party ; mij
reward will at any rate be safe."
The second day's march from Kiimki we bivouacked for the night
on a charming plateau, covered with short gi*ass and dotted here and
there with clumps of trees. This plateau about 100 years ago was in-
habited by a race of men called MuUiks, probably one of the so-called
Naga clans, who originally came from the neighbourhood of the Nong-
yong Lake, south of the Patkoi range. These Mulliks, who seemed to
have been a most inoffensive people, were ousted from their lands which
they had cultivated on the Diyung river by the Eamptis and Singphos,
particularly by the latter, and the majority had been either killed or
enslaved.
Soon after leaving this plateau, which was 4300 feet above sea-level,
we struck a track which our guide informed us led to the Khyendwen
valley. On this march some of our coolies broke down, and one was not
able to carry himself, much less his load, so Messrs. Ogle, Grant, and
La Toucho carried the sick man by turns ; and I must mention that this
was not the only occasion that sick natives were carried by the Europeans
of the party, our young doctor especially being always well to the fore
in helping to get sick men along. That night wo camped at an eleva-
tion of 7500 feet. There was no level ground, so we had to scoop out
holes to lie in on the mountain side and make the best of it.
The following day, tramping along through the damp rank jungle,
we came suddenly on an old Kampti and his son. The old man was
very weak and ill, and could not proceed. We got one of our men to
carry him up and over the pass ; but the poor man was too far gone,
and died on the road. At the little stream where we found the dying
Eampti my aneroid read 7100 feet, and it was from tliis place that the
ascent of the pass began. A comparatively easy climb of 1200 feet
brought us to the summit, up to which there was a considerable quan-
tity of snow lying about in patches. It was hard work for our coolies,
wading through the melting snow. We Europeans were so delighted
to be up to our knees in snow, which reminded us of home, that wo
began to imagine we were schoolboys again, and tried our hands at
snowballing. To all the natives, except our guides, snow was quite a
new experience, and one Assamese youth amused us by announcing his
intention of filling a bottle full and taking it back to Assam to show his
friends what a strange thing he had met on his travels !
Up to this (12th March) we had generally travelled together, but as
AND RETURN OVER THE PATKOl RANGE. 29
Woodtborpe and I had made up our minds to visit the Kampti Shans
and the valley of the Nam-kiu river (the western branch of the Irawadi),
and also to return into Assam via the Turong river (the Khyendwen),
crossing the Patkoi range near the Nongyong Lake.
We therefore separated from the rest of the party, taking with us four
Gurkhas, and travelling very light. As we were all short of rice, we only
took enough to last us into the Kampti country. Messrs. Ogle, La Touche,
and Grant, were all anxious to accompany us, but we could not manage
provisions for the whole party, so they returned via Kiimki to our depots
at Dapha and Indong. Of course our guide said it was utterly impossible
to go on, and that he would not answer for the consequences ; however,
when he was informed that we intended to go on with or without him,
he waived his objection, and ofif we started. After a dreary march in the
pouring rain, we camped that night at a place called Mokoshat (7500
feet). I may mention, once for all, that it poured with rain night and
day, all the six days' journey to Bor Kampti. ^
At Mokoshat, our interpreter said that the downpour was owing
to our party burning bamboos, which, being filled with water, exploded,
and ho was continually calling out, *' Don't make a noise, or the
Deity will send more rain." Frank Hatton mentions that the same
idea obtains among the Dy&ks in North Borneo. My companion
(Woodtborpe), who had been more or less ill all day with fever and a
bad sore throat, became very ill during the night, and I was very
anxious about him ; however, the next morning he was a little better,
so we commenced to climb the Mokoshat mountain (one of the spurs
running down from the Phungun range). Having attained a height of
close upon 9000 feet, we descended, and making way through the
melting snow, bivouacked at a height of 7500 feet. It had been so
stormy the whole day, hail, sleet, and incessant min, that unfortunately
we got no view whatever, and it was the same on our return. Our
guide informed us, that on a clear day, the Brahmaputra to the west,
and the Irawadi to the east, can be seen from the Mokoshat mountain.
Owing to the intense cold, and the driving hail and sleet, which caused
the track, which we with 'difficulty made out by the "blazing" of
former travellers, to be very slippery, our progress was very slow, and
we had to halt on the hill-side without water, except what we got from
the skies above. Darkness came on, and our guide ensconced himself
in a hollow tree from which ho could not be persuaded to budge. Seated
crosa-legged in his shelter, with a fixed and vacant look on his stolid
countenance, he reminded me of a picture I have Feen somewhere of
" Saiambu," a Hindu deity, called the self-existent and self-complacent
one.
On the sixth day, after leaving the bulk of our party, we arrive I at
the stockaded town of Langnu. There had been a dreary sameness about
all otir marches; tramping along through the damp rank jungle, all
30 EXPEDITION FROM UPPER ASSAM TO THE IRAWADI,
sodden under foot, had a depressing effect, and .we almost imagined that
we were being gradually absorbed into the mass of decaying vegetation
which existed above, below and around us ; it was almost a relief when
the route, as it often did, lay along the rocky beds of mountain streams.
Thunderstorms were very frequent. I always think they are grander
and more impressive at high altitudes, the crashing among the trees
and the awaking of a thousand echoes on the mountain sides, has a
greater effect when one is out in the open, especially at night.
Apropos of thunder, the Singphos have rather a poetical way of ex-
pressing it — for it thunders, they say, '* mou sigade," the cloud is calling
out. On our way to Langnu, the site of a Kampti bivouac was pointed
out to us where ten Kampti traders on their way back from Assam had
been recently surprised and massacred by Singpho robbers, and we were
warned to look out on our return journey. The Kamptis afterwards
told us that if it were not for fear of Singpho robbers there would be
much greater intercourse between the valleys of the Irawadi and the
Brahmaputra.
Our great anxiety on arrival at Langnu was on account of food for our
coolies and our four Gurkhas, so Woodthorpe and I walked into the town
to interview the raja ; we were conducted to the town hall, a thatched
house with a raised platform, in the centre of which was a fireplace, and
after a long delay the raja came in state with Burmese gilded umbrellas
carried over him and his brother : gongs were beaten and occasionally a
musket was discharged. Among the retinue a conspicuous figure was
an individual called the Tongnu, who was dressed in a kilt, a black
goat-skin coat and a Burmese red lacquered helmet (somewhat like a
fire brigade man's hat); this man's duties are of various kinds, he
seemed to combine the office of master of the ceremonies with that of
chief of the police. The Kampti Raja said that if he had known we were
coming ho would have gone to meet us; but I think this was only
** a manner of speaking," our sudden and unexpected descent on the
valley probably saved us the mortification of being turned back had
the Kamptis got wind of our intention. On the whole we had an
amusing and satisfactory interview ; rice was promised us and the
promise was handsomely redeemed. After the interview we were shown
over the stockaded town ; the stockade was a double one, 11 feet high
with a banquette of earth about four feet high ; we were told that the
slaves had built the stockade, and were also informed that all the slaves
would gladly go to Assam if they could ; this I do not believe, as the
slaves (so called) seemed perfectly happy and contented. With the
exception of a few cases of goitre, the Kamptis seemed a healthy people ;
a few old people complained of rheumatism, for which we gave them
some vaseline, the rubbing of which would do the affected parts no harm
(and I am afraid not much good).
A few wild, uncouth-looking Singphos from the adjacent hills
AND RETURN OVER THE PATKOI RANGE. 31
came fully armed into onr camp, and the Eamptis seemed much
relieved when they had taken their departure. Some Kunnungs came
to have a look at the two white men ; they inhabit the country to the
north-east of the Eampti valley, and are an extremely gentle, pleasant-
looking people, small in stature, rather fair in complexion, with their
hair cut short in a fringe over the forehead ; they had melodious voices
and pleasant smiles. I wrote down a few words of their language, which
to a certain extent resembles the Singpho, about five per cent, of the
words being identical. The Kunnungs are famous for their "daos"
(short swords), which they manufacture from iron extracted by them
from the ore found near the Nam-Tis4n river. They also extract silver
from ore which they obtain eight days* journey to the north-east of
Langnu. We brought back a small lump of silver ore, which, when
assayed at the Bombay mint, was found to yield 12^ ozs. to the ton.
Afterwards, when we visited the chief raja of the Kamptis at '* Padao,"
he said if we would visit his country again he would send us to the
silver mines ; and he seemed anxious to obtain the services of men who
could extract the silver from the ore.
On the 20th March we started for the western branch of the Irawadi,
called by the Singphos M'Li-kha (" Kha " being Singpho for river), and
by the Kamptis the Nam-kiu (** Nam " being Kampti for river) (the
Singphos and Kamptis respectively describe the Irawadi diiring its
whole course to the sea as M*Li-kha and Nam-kiu).
After crossing the Nam-lung river by means of canoes formed out of
hollowed trees, we kept along the left bank of the river for six miles,
until we came to a large stockaded town called " Langdao." The
people objected to our going through their lands to the river ; but after
an interview with the raja, with whom we shook hands (somewhat to
his astonishment), we were allowed to proceed, and three miles further
on we struck the Nam-kiu, the western branch of the Irawadi just above
where it is joined by the Nam-lung. Here wo found the river about
85 yards wide, and not deep, in no place more than five feet. The mouth
of the Nam-lung is in E. long. 97° 38' 30" and N. lat. 27° 15' 30",
and 1630 feet above the sea-level.
The river up stream was very pretty, and Woodthorpe made a
charming sketch of it, with its " couch of snows," the lofty Nam-kiu
mountains to the north as a background. On inquiring, we were
informed that to the east, three days' journey off", a river called the Nam-
Tisdn flowed parallel to the Nam-kiu, joining it lower down. Between
the Nam-kiu and the Nam-Tisan we could see a mountain range which
was called by the Singphos T-chet Biim. To the east of the Nam-
Tisan (or Disan), .and five days* journey from that river, another range
existed called the Nogmiin or Noikon (from this range the Kunnungs
obtain the silver ore), to the east of which flowed the Nam-Dumai
or Fhungmai. This river the Kamptis said was the same size as the
S2
EXPEDITION FROM UPPER ASSAM TO THE IRAWADl,
Nam-kiu» that it waa formed by three Btreams which had their origm in
the Nam-kiu moiintaiuB^ which wo saw to the north and north*east of the
place where we stood {viz. on tho right hank of the Xam-kin, just above
the mouth of tho Nam-lung). Tho Kamptis told ns that all the branches
of tho Irawadi have Iheir origin in the snowy range to the north and
north-east. The Kamptis mid that some times a trading party went to
China (-which tho}' called *' Khe Moung "), that the journey to^ik thorn
on© monih and eight days, that they had to cross in boats two big
rivers (after having crossed the Nani-kioj the Xam*Tisan, and Nam-
Dnniai). The traders bought opium in China at tho rate of lOs, ^d, a
pound, but they said it was not so gocvd as the Assam opium, 'which they
could ohtiin after a joTiraey which only took them half the time it did
to go to China ; the opium of Assam cost them» however^ about 30*. a
ponnd, The Kamptis are not such inveterate consumers of the juioe of
the poppy as the Bingjdios, We found that the drug answered very well
in the place of money when we bought rice for our party ; but, of course,
it was very sticky stufiF to cut up and divide into small particles, as e^ich
individual only brought ua a few pounds of rice, and we had to pay
each person separatel}^ at the rate of a penny a pound ; it was a tedious
business^ and as the people would only transact business with the two
white men personally, we were not sorry when the day's bartering was
over. We found the Kamptis strictly honest in their doulingsi, and if
we paid a person for ten pounds of rice and only received five pounds
at tho time, he or she would go back to the towm, and bring us the
balance without fail later on.
After we had visited the Irawadi we returned to Lunguu very tired,
as the day hati been ex cestui vely hot, and I suppose wo felt the heat
more, having recently been travelling at high altitudesi between 700Q
and 9000 feet; the descent to IGOO feet was somewhat trying. At night
wt3 were disturbed from our slumbers by some armed men who came
yelling into our camp. We turned out, weapons in hand, thinking that
the Kamptis had changed their minds about us ; but discovered that our
midnight visitors were messengers sent by Lukun, the chief raja of tho
Kamptis, ami that he^invited us ** to repair to the metropolis." To pay
Lukun a visit at Padao was just what we wanted. So we started off the
following morning, taking two Gburkas with us. After being ferried
over the Nani4ung our route hiy along a level valley covered with
ghort grass and dotted here and there with clumps of trees ; the valley 19
divided into three plateaus, Langnu being on the most southern, and
Manchi on the most northern. In the old maps Langnu and Lang-dao
were put down under the names of Mung Lung, and Padao (which is now
the capital), was called Mung Kamptl (the meaning of which is simply
the Kampti country). The extreme length of the valley is 25 miles^
and the average breadth about 12 miles ; and the height above sea-level
varies from 1500 to 1800 feet. The number of inhabitants does not
AND RETURN OVER THE PATKOI RANGE. 33
exceed 12,000, and they are divided amongst 13 villages, the most
powerful of which are Padao and Manchi. The soil of the valley is very
fertile, and very large crops of rice are grown, the rice being stored in
excellent granaries. Blood feuds between members of different com-
munities are not unfrequent, and the Kamptis seem to have a lively
^read of the surrounding Singphos ; otherwise the Kamptis lead a quiet,
peaceful life, and are certainly the most intelligent and best behaved
people on 'the north-east frontier. The Eunnungs, who inhabit the
lower ranges in the vicinity of the valley, are nominally the vassals of
the Kamptis, to whom they pay tribute.
After a nine mile walk, we found a large crowd of armed Kamptis
awaiting our arrival, and the nephew of the raja who had brought a
couple of ponies for our use. The carved wooden saddles were most
uncomfortable, and stirrups very tiring (probably made to fit the naked
big toe of a Kampti) ; however, as our friends evidently intended to do us
honour, we mounted, and in noisy procession went to Fadao. Muskets
were discharged, gongs beaten, and banners and gilt umbrellas were
waved overhead by an enthusiastic escort. En route we passed some
small Buddhist temples with gilt domes, under which were enshrined
the usual images of Gautama. Arrived near the capital we were met
by the raja's two sons, who informed us that their father was at his
country residence on the Irawadi, that he had given orders for us to be
well received and that he would visit us. We tried to get a little rest,
but closely surrounded as we were by a dense crowd of about 2000
people of both sexes and all ages, rest was impossible. I was veiy
unwell, the sun having affected me the previous day, so crept into
our little tent to lie \iown, whilst Woodthorpe, with his usual good
nature, tried to draw the crowd off mo by getting out our stock in trade
of toys, &c.
Amongst our toys, we found that a dancing doll with golden hair,
who (when she was wound up) fired off a pistol, was the prime
favourite, the Kampti ladies being very curious in examining the
various items of the doll's dress ; a growling bear, and a jumping frog
were also in great request.
We paid several visits to the town of Fadao, which was surrounded
by a strong stockade. The raja's dwelling was inside an inner
stockade, and at the time of our visit, a new palace (save the mark I)
was being erected for the potentate.
On the day following our arrival the raja was brought in with great
pomp from his residence on the Nam-kiu river. He was a fine-looking
shrewd old fellow, with a certain amount of natural dignity, and seemed
to have considerable authority over his people. Before our departure
Woodthorpe made a capital sketch of the chief and coloured it ; the raja
asked that it might be presented to our Queen concerning whom we had
told him, dilating on the immense power she possessed, and trying to
Ko. I.— Jan. 1887.] d
EXPEDITION FROM UPPER ASSAM TO THE IRAWADJ.
give Mm an idea of the vast extent of country sbe ruled over in all parts
of tlie world.
The open air darbar whicli was held in our honour was a pretty and
curious, if not a very iropoBing, spectacle. The chief raja sat cross-
legged on a curious canred wooden couch » which was flanked by gilt
representatious of dragons and covered with a crimson cloth. All the
people were decked out in their bruvest apparel. Nnmerona large
Burmese gilt umbrellas were held aloft over the inner circle, w^hich
consisted of Woodthorpe, myself, our two little Gurkha soldiers, and the
raja's party* We were surrounded by over a hundred Karri ptis, armed
with flint-lock muskets, behind whom stood dense rows of apearmen.
The master of the ceremonies, who was gorgeous in a Chinese dress,
resplendent with dragons' heads and flowers, amused us very much.
Armi'd with a long stick, he went round during the time the darbar
lasted, tapping with no light hand the heads of the frtait rows of spec-
tators, making them sit down so that those behind could see. The
"long stick in waiting** did not seem to discriminate between the
bondmen and the free in the force of the blows he administered, but I
must do him the justice to say that he ** lightened his hand " consider-
ably w^hen tapping the neat, prettily decorated head-dreeses of the
Kanipti ladies who were naixed up with the warriors. Presents were
exchanged, and questions asked on both sides. We asked again about
the rivera to the east, but the K am ptis only gave ua the earn© informa-
tion they did near Langdao. The raja said if we could stop he would
send UH with guides to the silver mines, which lie said were eight days*
journey to the north-eaRt, Unfortunately we could not stay, as we knew
it would be very diflicult to get back to Assam oc it was.
Our intention was to start at once and can-y out our original intention
of striking south from Kiiniki, and crossing the Patkoi range into the
Khyendwen valley, and re-crosbing the Patkoi range into Assam, near
the NoDgyong Lake. This programme we carried out, but with great
diffieidty, owing to the lateness of the season and the consequent
increase in the size of the rivers* Had we remained any longer in the
Kampti country we should have had to remain there for another eight
munths. The Kampti chiefs treated us most kindly, and said they
would always he glad to see us again. We returned to Langnu, and on
the 26th March commenced our return journey. Before our departure
the Buddhist priest, with two of his acolytes, came to wish ua God-
speed, bringing with them rice and flowera, which they scattered before
us, and chanted prayers to the efl'ect that wv mi^ht have a safe and
speedy journey back, that Singpho robbers might not molest us on our
path, and that our sick coolies might recover, W^e wore both much
pleused with this attention on the part of the Buddhist priesta. The
Eaja of Langnu insisted on sending his brother and half-a-dozen
mufiketeere to accompany us for the fii'st three inarches to protect ue
AND RETURN OV£R TH£ PATKOI RANGE. 35
against the Singphos, who, the Kamptis asserted, were always on the
watch to waylay travellers. With the exception of having our camp
invaded by a herd of wild elephants one night, and the usual difficulties
of crossing flooded rivers, &c. — difficulties which Woodthorpe's engineer-
ing skill and the good work of our Gurkhas soon disposed of — we
arrived, on the ninth day after leaving the Kampti country, at Kiimki
again. We were most fortunate, just in time in crossing the Diyung
liver, as an hour after we had crossed, the river, which was seventy
yards wide, became unfordable, and, I believe, remained so for three
weeks. On arrival at Kumki we found, as had been previously arranged,
that the bulk of the Survey camp had gone down the banks of the
Diyung to Indong, a small guard with some supplies being left for us.
The Diyung being in a very flooded state, the party, under the able
leadership of Mr. Ogle, had (we afterwards learnt) a very rough time of
it, and all the three Englishmen of the party, Messrs. Ogle, La Touohe,
and Grant, had vied with each other in helping the sick coolies over the
dangerous places on the route.
I must relate one incident, showing what real good men Gurkhas
are. A non-oommissioned officer of the 44th Eegiment (Gurkha Light
Infantry) who had been sent with three soldiers in charge of some rice
for us, to await our return on the Assam side of the Chanka Pass, the
man thinking something must have happened (we were a few days
overdue), took his little party over the snowy pass, and was on his way
into the Kampti country to aid us when we met him.
On the 6th of April, Woodthorpe and I left Kiimki and crossed the
Patkoi range at an altitude of 5500 feet. For a week we marched down
and along the banks of the Turong river (the head water of the
Khyendwen) ; the route was a very bad one, principally owing to the
flooded state of the river, which compelled us either to wade waist
deep in the torrent, or else to clamber over the huge slippery boulders
and cut footholds along the face of steep cliffs. Each day the rain
descended in greater torrents and the leeches became if possible more
ravenous. We noticed that there were hardly any birds in this region,
and the only living things we saw were a couple of tigers, several deer,
and some enormous pythons ; there were a great quantity of indiarubber
trees, some of which bore signs of having been recently tapped by
Nagas. At the end of the seven days we came to a small collection of
Singpho hamlets, the inhabitants of which seemed very much astonished
at seeing us.
We hurried on, as we were short of food, and could surmise what a
flooded state the country in front of us was in. On the third day after
leaving the Singpho villages, which are situated on the right bank of
the Turong river, just above the mouth of the Loglai river (which we
had to bridge), we crossed the Nongyong river, partly by swimming
and partly by wading, and passing by a piece of water three-quarters of
D 2
S8
EXPEDITION FROM UPPER ASSAM TO THE IRAWADI,
a mile long and half a mile broad, called Nougyong Lake (wMch has been
fully described and accurately sketched by a Mr. 8. Peal, who Tisited it
some years ago), we crossed the Patkoi range at 28G0 feet above sea-
lerel, and once more were in Assam.
For the next three days we waded down rivers when we could, and
cut our way through the dense cano jungle when we could not, till we
were brought up with a round turn by a deep rapid river about 60 yards
wide ; sle we had no food left, and no immediate prospect of crossing the
river, a Gurkha swam across to bring ua assistance from our party, who
were at Indong, a day*8 journey off. After the departure of our
roeBBonger we set to work to make rafts of plantain trees and bamboofi,
and the next day we crossed our party without losing a man. Wood-
thorpe (who worked one of the rafts backwards and forwards himself)
was as usual most indefatigable ; even our phlegmatic old interpreter
bestirred himself (seeing that starvation was imminent), and took
the whole morning to make a raft for himself, which he capsized as
soon as it was launched ! The following day we were glad to meet our
Gwrkha messenger, who was accompanied by Dr. Gmnt with supplies
of food» and on arrival at the Bihing river, which was now about half a
mile wide, we found the other members of our party ready to help ua to
cross with, canoes lashed together. The river roiio so rapidly that night,
that we were not able to cross for three days* After crossing the river
Dihing we retraced our steps to Sadiya, and arrived there the end of
April, after having been travelling for four months and a half.
The distance from Sadija to Padao, tho capital of the Kampti Shane,
is 197 miles, and now that the route is known and surveyed, the journey
could be performed in three weeks. Owing to the sparcity of inha-
bitants on this route and tho physical difficulties of the country, I should
not think that it would ever do as a possible trade route to China;
however interesting it might be to revisit the Kampti s with a view of
acquiring more geographical knowledge of the country to tho noilh
and east.
The distance from Sadiya over the Patkoi range and via Nongyong to
the mouth of the Loglai river (i. e. where it joins the Turong) is 103
miles, and the journey could be performed in ten days ; from the Loglai
river to Mainla via Bisa is about 150 miles. In the dry season the
journey from Sadiya to Mainla could be performed in three weeks. On
this route there are very few inhabitants, but the country is said to be
easier to travel over than the route to the Kampti country. The distance
from Mainla to Bhamo is about 130 miles, and the joui-ney can be made
in native boats dow^n the Irawadi. Mainla is a Shan town, situated on
the left bank of tho Pliungmai river (the eastern branch of the Irawadi)
at its Junction with tho Nam-kiu (the western branch).
In conclusion, I must express my regret that my old friend Colonel
Wood thorpe, who has only just returned to India with the Gilgit Mission,
AKD RETURN OVER THE PATKOI RANGE*— DISCaSSION. 87
was not able to write and read yon a paper on the jonmey we took
together ; be woidd have been able to give yon a much more interesting
account of the country and people we saw. I cannot do better than
finish by quoting and heartily endorsing the words of Col. Godwin-
Austen, in the paper read before the British Association at Aberdeen
last year :— " CoL Woodthorpe possesses all the qualifications that make
the successful explorer. Great powers of endurance and observation, zeal
for his work, brave but cautious, a talented draughtsman, and last, but
not least, the tact to make himself liked by the people of the country " ;
and I may add, by all those who have had the pleasure of travelling
with him.
After the reading of tbe above,
Colonel YuLB said he was delighted to hear the testimony which Major
Kacgregor in his interesting paper had home with regard to his fellow-traveller,
Cokmel Woodthorpe ; an officer with whose remarkahle enterprises the speaker had
been much impressed for the last seven or eight years. Colonel Woodthorpe had
made several remarkable journeys to the north-east of India, but his explorations
had not been confined to that region. He had just returned from a journey in the
extreme north-west, beyond the British frontier, thn>ugh passes which had never
before been trodden by any European. Of all geographical problems in Asia which
had been dealt with by the Society for many years past, no two had interested him
(Colonel Yule) more than those relating to the sources of the Irawadi and the
sooroes of the Oxus. Colonel Woodthorpe had been an explorer in both those
r^ona. The result of his last exploration in the Oxus region had not yet been
published, and he believed there were political difficulties in the way of their
publication. He was glad also to hear how Major Macgregor had spoken of one whose
name perhaps was not very familiar to this generation, but who deserved the highest
honour — Lieutenant Wilcox. Sixty years ago there was no more promising explorer
or British traveller in existence, but his career was short, and he had been almost
forgotten by those who were not specially called upon to study the results of his travelr>.
But every man who had occasion to examine the many problems connected with the
sources of the Irawadi must be familiar with the name of Wilcox. Some years ago,
when the everlasting question of the source of the Irawadi was discussed at a
meeting of the Society, a gentleman who took the heterodox view spoke disparagingly
of Wilcox, because apparently Wilcox*s facts were contrary to his theories. On that
occasion he (Colonel Yulu) was called on to speak, and he said a few words on the
subject which he might appropriately quote now. " Wilcox was not a man who
ought to be treated as this gentleman had treated him. He was one of the most intel-
ligent and competent of writers on geographical subjects, as well as a great traveller.
No one could read his papers in the ' Asiatic Researches' without being struck by
Ilia acuteness and accomplishments.*' He was therefore glad to hear bow thoroughly
lieut. Wilcox had been appreciated by the most recent travellers in that region.
There was another point more personal to himself which he should like to call
attention to. Major Macgregor had spoken of the excessive moisture of the region
through which he travelled, and the enormous discharge of water which that must
send down not only towards the valley of Assam, but also towards the Irawadi. On
the occasion to which he had alluded, dealing with some of the assumptions that had
been put forward, he (Colonel Yule) said, •* It was vain to assume quantities of rain
in a country about which there were no data. It was very possible that the rainfall
near the sources of the Irawadi was very excessive, the position being like the end
EXPEDITION FROM UPPER ASSAM TO THE IKAWADI,
of a great fuunel Colouel Pit jevalsky had ascertained a fact which was entirely
new to geographers and pliysical philosophers. Where the Hoang-ho left the
mountains forming the north-ivoat boundary of China, he canae suddenly from
the dry steppes of the north upon a moiiutaki country of the most extra-
ordinary moisture; and further south Abb6 Davjtl, who went up the Yang-
tsze-kiang into the eastera part of Szechuen, came upon a continnation of the
same country. He stated that if a man fired a ^n ho brought down a heavy
shower of rata ! The supposition of excessive rainfall north of Kampti was very
probable, from what was knoun of the Kasia Hills, where the rain was moat
excessive^ He thought it very possible that the key (o the extraordiuary discharge
of the Irawadi might he that there was an extraordinary rainfall among the hillB,
But the question might be considered from another point of view. The Mogouug
river-mouth was the highest point on the Irawadi that had been reached by any
European travellers fram Burma, Colonel Han nay, Dr, Bayfield, and others were
all obliged to leave the Irawadi there, and to go towards the Assam hills. They
were all struck by its magnitude at that point, as was also Dr. Griffith, who was
perha]\^ the best observer among them. But many years ago he (Colonel Yule)
calculated the basin of the Irawadi above that point, and he found it to be about the
same as that of the Khine at Cologne. And it was easy to imagine what a
tremendous flood the Rhine would he if it were fed by only one-half the rmnfall
of the Kasia Hills ! '* That was a long shot, and he was rather pleased to leani from
Major Macgregor that it htt the mark.
General J. T. Walker, b.e., said it was a great gratification to him to hear such
an interesting account of the expedition, and to find that Major Macgregor had written
80 kindly and enthusiastically of his old friend, Colonel Woodthorpe, who was one of
the ablest and best ofikers in a Department which contained many able and excellent
men. It would have been a great pleasure to Colonel Woodthorpe to have read a
ITaper on the subject himself to the Society j but he happened to be one of those
willing horses whom Governments were very glad to have an opportunity of riding,
and no sooner had he returned from his exi>edition to the Upper Irawadi than he received
a telegram asking him if he would he willing to accompany Colonel Lockiiart'a
expedition from Gilgit to the Hindu Kush range and Afghanistan. The authorities
knew all he ha<:l gone through, and they had some qualms of conscience as to whether
it was quite fair to him to send him off immediately on another arduous expedi-
tion ; so they telegraphed to inquire whether he felt up to going. Of course, he
replied that he was quite ready to go, and he joined the expedition very speedily;
but I have been told that on his arrival Colonel Lockhart, seeing how worn and wan
he was, said he was afraid a mistake had been made in asking liim to come. How-
ever, it turned out that so far from being a mistake, it was a good thing for Colonel
Woodthorpe. The bracing climate of Afghanistan ami the Hindu Kush did him a
great deal of good, and was as good for him as a visit to his native country. He
had done admirable work on that frontier. Twice he had cros.sal the Hindu Kush,
and although ptolitical reasons prevented the immediate publication of his work, it
was to be hoped that it would be published eventually. No sooner had he returned
to Simla than he volunteered to go to Assam and explore the proposed line of railroad
down to Bamo in Upper Burma. Ilie Government decided on postpouing that under-
taking for the present, but they gladly availed themselves of his services, and sent
him to Burma^ where he now is.
The line of country throu;ih which Colonel Woodthorpe and Major Macgregor
passed was ncit an easy one in which to carry on a continuous survey, but the jjositioa
of the Irawadi and its distance from Sadiya were fixed by Wilcox sixty years ago
within two miles of the position recently determined by Woodthorpe, A year and
J
AND RETURN OVER THE PATKOI RANGE.— DISCUSSION. 39
a half ago Mr. Gordon read an elaborate paper to the Society in which he endeavoured
to prove that the Sanpo river of Tibet came down into the Irawadi, and was in fact
the upper source of that river. He carried it over a course which was almost pre-
cisely identical with a range of mountains indicated on the wall-map illustrating
Major Ma<^egor's paper, and then down into the Irawadi, crossing the course of the
Lohit Brahmaputra, as given by Wilcox from native information. Mr. Gordon said
he was quite ready to accept everything that Wilcox had done personally, but not
what he got from native information. Only a very few weeks elapsed before
Mr. Gordon's conjectures were conclusively negatived. Lieut. Needham travelled
from Assam up to Rima, and showed that the eastern branch of the Brahmaputra
flowed continuously from Rima into Upper Assam. It was therefore perfectly im-
possible that any river could cross this region and pass into the Irawadi. A second
corroboration was obtained by the work of Colonel Woodthorpe and Major Macgregor,
who had reached Mr. Gordon's Irawadi, and found it only 60 yards broad, and hot
more than five feet deep, rising in hill ranges immediately to the north, and not a con-
tinuation of the Sanpo, which rose 1500 miles away in Western Tibet. These were
very valuable geographical facts, and he was glad to find that his old friend Colonel
Woodthorpe had been able to throw some light on the question of the sources of the
Inwadi.
Dr. G. Watt said that Manipur, through which he had travelled, was a small
valley surrounded by a series of mountain ranges, and to reach it from Cachar nine
nmges had to be passed over, crossiog in most cases the same river, which flowed
backwards and forwards in a most cirouitous way. In the valley of Manipur the
rainfall was only about 39 inches, or the average of Great Britain, but 17 miles off
on the mountains which formed the north-east ranges, the rainfall was as much as
120 inches, and towards the Naga country to the north it became greater and
greater in certain limit tracts. In the Rhasia Hills 600 inches might fall in one
place, and 20 miles off only 50 inches. Such transitions were very frequent. The
word Naga was applied to many of the races along the north-eastern frontier of
Assam. From some of the things exhibited to the meeting he fancied that Major
Macgregor and his party had got into one or two of the extreme ends of the Naga
country proper, probably a branch of the Angami Nagas. The kilt on the table was an
Angami one — the symbol of a triple murderer. When a man took the head of one
enemy he was allowed to wear one row of shells on his kilt; when he killed a second
he might wear two rows, and when he killed a third he might wear three rows, but
after that no more rows of shells were added to the kilt Another specimen on the
table was the ** Y .C." of the Angami Nagas, which was worn by their heroes. It differs
very little in style from that met with in the south-west, the head-quarters of the
Angamis. The country of the Angami Nagas was a little to the south-west of the
Singpho country. One of their peculiarities was the social system which prevailed
in their villages. A village was divided by one or two walls into different sections,
or khilSf and each section was occupied by a distinct branch of the Angami Naga
family, often speaking different dialects, never intermarrying, and knowing nothing
of eadi other, but occasionally fighting with one another, and still they were only
diidded by walls. A common house was erected at the meeting points of the wall,
and there the young men of the village watched night and day what the members of
the other kheU were doing.
One point with regard to the rainfall was worthy a passing remark. Nothing
in Manipur struck him as a botanist more than the remarkable transition of vegeta-
tion in that Fmall region. Major Macgregor had alluded to the oak and the
rhododendron, but he (Dr. Watt) gathered twelve or more species of oaks, many of
which were new to science, and ten or twelve species of rhododendron in Manipur
40
EXPEDITION FROM UPPER ASSAM TO TEE IRAWADI,
alone* It would be extremeiy intoresting to know wliat porticular oaks tinJ:'
j^hododendrons the recent expct^ition came across* One of the rhododendrons in tbe
Kaga Hills was fonnd in the Himalayas by Sir Joseph Hooker, and it was named
after a distinf^ished officer, Bhododendron FaloomrL This specJes was nowher&
met with in the immense tract of country between the Naga Hilla aod Sikkira, There
was alflo the Bhododtndrou DalhauBejt, an ephiphytic rhododendron which grew on
a hill 30 miles north of Darjeeling, When he went up to the Naga Hills he found
these species throughout tbe whole country, at an altitude of about fiOOO to 8000 feet,
aod these rhododendrons never occur in Sikkim below 10,000 to 13,000 feet. There
were many instances of plants falling in their altitude as the traveller passed to tho
east and south-east from Sikkim, until at Moulmein a rhododendron was found
growing near the sea, a circumstance which was not met with in any other part of
Asia. Primrosea showed the same tendency to falling in their altitude in tho
direction indicated. He was inclined to think that there was something in that
region which* apart from pure geography, was of vital interest. Saramett, which
was under 13,000 feet high, the natives said had snow all the year round, whereas
on, the Himalaya the lowest point on which snow occurs is 17^000 feet He himself
was on the shoulder of Sarameti in May, and it was then covered mth snow^ and in
April, when he went to the top of Japvo, in corojiany with the Chief Commissioner
of Assam, he enjoyed snowkilting with one or two companions at an altitude of
9000 feet aixjve the sea. In Manipur the whole valley, 3000 feet high, was covered
with hoar-frost in December. He thought this was a point of very great im-
portance, and one which should be thoroughly inveEti?;ated ; what was the cause of
this falling of altitude in the vegetation? Major Macgregor had tmvelled with
CJolonel Woodthorpe and Mr. Ogle ; with the latter gentleman, he (Dr. Watt) had
had the pleasure of sojoumin|[; for three or four months in the Naga country^
and the officers of the Burma Manipur Expedition, so ably conducted by Colonel J.
Johnstone, hatl obtained a good deal of information, but much still remained to be
done, not only in settling the head-streams of the Irawadi, but in exploring the
many other points of interest in that region*
Mr. J. Annak Bryce said his experience of those regions was at a lower levf 1
than that described by Major Macgregor. But there were one or two points with
regard to which he thought some information was desirable. He wished to ask
Major Macgregor, if it ever became necessary for the Government of India to have a
railway from Assam to Burma, at what point his experience would suggest that it
should be constructed. Another question he desired to ask was whether he thought
a trade would ever be develoj^ed between the upper regions of the Irawadi and the
vidley of Assam ? Reference had lieen made to the Singi>ho» trading in indiarubber,
and he would like to know if that and the other articles produced in the upper valley
uf the Irawadi at present found their way down to the lower reaches of the river, or
across the Patkoi range into Assam, Mr. Gordon in his theory with regard to tbe
sources of the Irawadi entirely underestimated the actual facts. The river Linwin
rose to an enormous height during tho rainy season, to 40 and 50 and 60 feet above
the dry eeiison level, and yet Mr, Gordon in his discussion of the question assumed
that the rainfall on the Lin win was tit7.
Major Macgregor said it would be very difEcuU to construct a railway from
Assam to Burma, but from Makum, where there was now a station, it was not
impoesiblo to make a railway over the Patkoi Pass vil the Nongyong Lake to Maiula.
It was not impracticable to do that, but at the same time ho considered it very
difficult. He did not consider that the Kamti Shan country would be a good trade
route to China, The only trade i-oute that could be established would be over the
Patkoi range, which could be crossed at 3000 feet, and so on to Main la, from whence
AND RETURN OVER THE PATKOI RANGE.— DISCUSSION. 41
he believed a fortnight'* journey would take the traveller into Yunnan, where there
might be some trade, but he was not sufficiently acquainted with that region to say
whether there was much trade or not. Most of tiie country through which the
railway would pass was very desolate. With reference to Mr. Bryce*s question
about the destination of indiarubber and other articles produced in the upper valley
of the Irawadi, Major Macgregor stated that at present all articles were taken iuto
Assam where there was a settled government and a good market, and were shipped
vi& the Brahmaputra and Dhubri line of railway to Calcutta.
Mr. Holt Hallbtt said that Mr. Colquhoun and himself had proposed the con-
nection between India and Burma, so as to join the Indian with the Burmese
railways^ and did not propose the construction of a railway over the terrible hills, to
the east of the Upper Irawadi, into China. Their route to China lay in a north-east
direction, starting from Maulraain, a seaport at the mouth of the Salween river.
The Burmese railways were now being -constructed to Mandalay, from thence they
could be extended to Bhamo, and they certainly would be before long. From Bhamo
they propose that the line shall be extended through the Tsenbo defile, which lies
five miles to the north, and is 20 miles in length. This defile narrows the river
Irawadi in one place to 50 yards, and could be easily crossed at some convenient
point by the railway. From the north end of the defile the line would be continued
up the basin of the Mogoung river into the Hookong valley. Officers who had
passed over this route stated that between Mogoung and the Hookong valley they
did not pass over mountains, but only among small spurs or hills. Proceeding from
the Irawadi there would be no heights to cross between the Hookong valley and the
Nongyong hike, which lay near the Patkoi Pass, as the Nongyong was a tribu-
tary of the Turong, which is a branch of the Khyendwen river that passes through and
drains the Hookong valley. The Patkoi Pass, according to the paper, was only
2860 feet above the sea, considering that Bhamo was 430 feet above the sea, and
that the Brahmaputra at Makum was at least the same height, the rise to the crest
of the pass would not be 2500 feet. Such an obstacle was inconsiderable when it
was remembered that Burma now formed about one-fourth of our Indian possessions,
and that the railway was intended for the connection of our neighbouring Indian
and Burmese provinces. He was glad to hear that the Government of India intended
as soon as possible to carry out the survey, and that Mr. Colquhoun was about to be
appointed Deputy-Commissioner of Mogoung. He knew that gentleman well enough
to be certain that he would not rest satisfied until a feasible route, as they had every
reason to believe theirs to be, was traced out through the small tract of country which
at present separated and blocked our Burmese and Indian railway systems.
The Cbaibhan (General K. Stbachey, b.e.) said that before proposing a vote of
thanks to Major Macgregor for his extremely valuable and interesting paper, he
wished to make a few remarks on some apparent peculiarities of the climate of the
region. There appeared to be a very curious lowering of the general temperature
there, which was shown by the fact that though the latitude was only about 27i° N.,
snow was found on the ground in April and May, at an altitude of 9000 or
10,000 feet; whereas far up in the north-west, in latitude 30° N., no snow
would be found at that time of the year at a similar altitude. He should con-
sider that the peculiarities of the vegetation of Manipur compared with Assam,
to which allusion had been made by Dr. Watt, were connected with this. It was
to be noted that the valleys which Major Macgregor had visited were at a com-
paratively low level, only 1500 or 1600 feet. Bhamo was only about 400 feet.
Immediately to the north rose abruptly what was really a permanently snowy
range. There could be no doubt that the warm currents of air coming up the
valleys of the Irawadi and the Salween and meeting these snowy motmtains
4^
JDURNEir OF
T. LAST
producsed an enormous precipitation of rain, whicli during the winter fell as snow.
The ooasequenco seemed to be that there was snow there at a very much lower
le^el than in the mountains further to the north. That an immenBc (quantity of
rain fell on the np[>er portions of the valky of the Irawadi there could be no qnestion*
The rainfall at Badiya \\&b upwards of 100 inches in the year, and for a sue cession
of ,monthe from May till September it was nut leas than 15 or 16 inches on the
average, and even in the dry months, which Colonel Woodthorpe and Major Mac-
gregor selected as j^articularly practicable for their purix)ses, there were four or five
inches per month. If it had been a rainy year they might have had double that
quantity. Such a rainfall seemed iu itself quite suCScieut to acwunt for the large
volume of water that was. drained ofl' by the lower portions of the Irawadi, and
anybody who knew what the climate of Tibet^ was must be jierfectly aware that
even with a course of several hundred miles in Tibet^ the river would pick up but a
small quantity of water, which would have but little eflfect iu swelling the stream
in the lower parts of Burma, in comparison with the enormous volumes wbich were
collected from the rain which fell in Upper Burma. He had roughly calculated that
a monthly fall of rain of 18 inches over a square, degree would mean 05,000 cubic
feet per second for the whole month. That would give some idea of the enormous
quantity of w^ater supplied by the rainfall^ though of course the whole of it was
not carried off by the rivers, a considerable part of It being absorbeti Major
MftCgregor mentioned that at an elevation of 8000 feet the snow weighed down
the bamboos. That was a very peculiar feature of the climate. With regard to
communication between India and Burma, he confessed that the very last way in
which he should ever dream of attempting to connect India with Burma, would
be through Assam over the mountains at the head-waters of the Irawadi. He
would not say it was impossible^ but he should be very sorry to be a shareholder
in any company that put its money into such a concern. In couclosioa he returned
the thanks of the meeting to Major Macgregor for hie papen
Journejj of Mr. J, T. Last from Blanbjre to tJie NamuU Milk,
W© have received tlic following letter from our traveller, Mr, J. T.
Laat:—
Foot of Moujit Chalt, near Namuli Peaks,
Aii*just ^ith, 188G.
I LEFT Blantyre on the I2th of July, and reached this place near Namuli on the
3rd of August. I have camiKHl at the foot of Mount Cbali, which is a little to the
south of Namnli, instead of at Namuli, because my coast men would not bo able to
bear the continuous cold at the high elevation.
On leaving Blantyre our path lay past the Scotch Mission station, then by a
road to the east we went on to the foot of Ndilandi Hill. Here we camped for the
night, and tbe next morning we crossed over a pass on the east side of Ndilandi and
went along the plain to Mount Kiladzulu. The country traversed is undukting,
with large marshes and bogs here and there. The rivers Lunzu, Ikimgnni,
Mnombezi, and Nangoma w^ere crossed during the day. Tljey are all small now,
but during the wet season they have a consitlerable flow of water. I was delayed
four days at Mount Kiladxulu, owing to difficulties with the local native porters.
On starting again we crossed the wide jilain which lies between Kiladzulu on the
west and the Milaoji range of mountains on the east. We reached the hill
Machemha, at the north end of the Milanji rangej on the morning of the third day.
FBOM BLANTTRK TO THE NAMdU HILLS. 43
The cumiif> tnTcraed is geDerally fiat» with here azni there patches of &irly good
kad, bat gpoeaJHj the groond is poor sod barren. lo pUoes there are laige bog8»
which nu^e this plain almost impassable in the wet season. The chief rivefs
crossed were the IfnamsTi and the Falombe. The fonner rises in the Bwanji hUls,
west of Moont Kiladznln ; on its way it reoetyes the Mwenji, which rises on Kilad-
zolo. The Mnamari then goes on to join the Palombe. This latter is a consider-
able riTcr, some 40 yards wkle, with banks 20 feet high. In the wet season the
liTer is filled. This is shown by the dried grass, sticks, and ddbris on the trees on
its banks. The Pslombe rises on the north-west side of Milanji and flows on into
the sooth end of Lake Shirwa or Kilwa, as it is sometimes called.
I fbond the chief on Machemba Hill to be an old acquaintance. He made me
Tery welcome at his village, and brought me a present of fowls and flour. There is
plenty of food here, among other things dried fish from the lake. The next
morning we started for Mansi hill. The chief Kaduia, or Machemba, went with me
some distance on the road to show the way. I had given him a return present for
what he had given me ca my arrival at his village. My general practice is to give
a present somewhat larger or of more value than that I receive. When a present is
not made by the chief I give the ordinary present of two yards of calico. In the
case of great chiefs, or troublesome ones, presents have to be given according to
dicomstances.
Onr journey from Machemba to Manzi was by the east end of Machemba, along
the north side of Mount Cheza, then in a northerly direction to Mount Manzi. All
the country at the north of Cheza is very fertile, but it was depopulated a few years
ago by Chikuri, the King of the Mangoni, who in his turn was driven back by the
Alob Maknas, into whose cotmtry we were just entering. Further on we came to
a large deserted village surrounded by well-cropped gardens. The chief of the place
had lately died, and, according to custom, the people had gone to build a new village
elsewhere. At the south side of Manzi there is a very large marsh, some three miles
across, and extending all along its soutfi and east sides. Now the marsh has a hard,
cn^ed crust, but during the rains it is quite impassable.
From Manzi we went on to Lake Limbi. This is a long, narrow pool, forming
the head-waters of the Sombani river. It is some 200 yards wide by three miles
long. There are a number of hippopotami in the lake, and fish in abundance, but
no crocodiles. The old chief Mpaodakani having refused to give me a guide, we
had to return to the main road, which leads to Kango Hill, and after following this
for some distance wo found a path which led to a ford over the Sombani near its
egress from the lake. This we crossed, and then struck across the forest to the
district under the chief Mlumbi. In the evening we reached a partly dried up
stream, and there camped for the night. The whole of the country passed over was
very poor, with coarse grass and stunted trees, and no water. We moved on the
next morning, and reached early the fertile, well-cultivated district under the chief
MlxmibL He received us very kindly, and at once gave us a place to camp in.
Food of all kinds was abtmdant and cheap. The following morning, when we were
ready to start, many men came forward and wanted to carry loads for a piece of
calico. There is here a great scarcity of cloth, for no European has passed this way
before, and trading caravans seldom visit the district. The common dress is a piece
of the bark of the miyombo tree, hammered out to form a kind of cloth. With
many the dress is very scanty indeed.
In a part of Africa like this, which has never been traversed before by any
European, local guides are absolutely necessary; anything new to the natives
implies danger: he therefore is on the alert, and often the most simple thing may
upset the native mind, and produce trouble and disaster. Often we passed through
44
JOURNEY FROM BLANTYRE TO THE NAilULI HIXIS.
large villages without Beeing a male about the place. They were all out with their
guns and spears, and had located them selves alongside the path in the forest, ready
for any emergency. When, however, they saw we were accompanied by some naen
from the last villaj^e and that they gave a good account of us, they became at once
friendly and supplied us with what we wanted, and so we went on from place to place.
We reached the village of the chief Miyan^a who had accompanied us from
Mlumhi'st about noon. In the afternoon I wanted to ascend a little hill named
Knz\, not far from whicli we had canii3ed, but the people living in a village at its
foot refused me permission on the ground that I had camped at another village
instead of theirs. As they were all more or less under the influence of drink, I did
not attempt to reason with them, bat simply returned. Besides, I did not wish to
have any dispnte with tlie natives, but to act in such a manner that there would
he a clear road between Zomba and Nan ml i for my men to pass by. The head man
of almost every village is independent, even when he is living in the territories of
another chief. Should the chief of a district wish the head man to remove his villuge
against his will, there would probably be an appeal to arms first. The chiefs are
continually fighting with each other, hut should an outside enemy appear they
all combine to oppose him. ,This was the case when the Mangoni King, Chlkuri^
attacked the Alolo and Loraur, and haii to retreats
Prom Miyanga*a we went on to Mmakawa's and thence the next day to Ana
Mwinye'a. The country is of an undulating character^ varying in quality of soil.
There are a few small streams of little importance, which flow into the Lumanana.
We reached the village of Mahuti towards evening. Here we were received
amicably and food was supplied in abundance. The people here dress in a most
primitive style, esi^cially the women* On chief Mtihuti being asked the reason
for this, he said that their custom was that women should not wear more than they
did until they had borno children. The next imoruing we went on to Mkwai's
village and rested for a short tin\e. Mkwai undertook to go with me to Xamusula's
town. At Mkwai*a I saw a woman with an enormous ** ndomya ** or lip- ring, it was
quite 3i iochea in diameter. This is the common ornament of the women in all
these districts. In addition to tins, some of them wear a brass or iron nail from 4 to
7 inches in length. It is passed through a hole in the lower li]> and left hanging in
froat of the chin. When the lady cannot afford a metal ornament of this kind she
utilizes a piece of stick which she covers with beads.
Namusula being the most powerful chief in these districts, I had to give him a
considerable present. He seemed pleased with w hat 1 gave him, and said he would
take care to see that my men were well treated whenever they might pass through
his district, 1 stayed with him till the next day.
On Monday, August 2ud, we Icit Kamusula's and went on to Ana Koroa's, who
the next morning conducted us over the Lukirgu river into Ana Guruwe's district-
Here we were received by Ana Guruwe's son-in-law, who led us on to the chiefs
priociiml village. After we had rested in the villaj;e square for a short time, Ana
Ciuruwe came out, followed by some of his men, and after some introductory cere*
monies placed three houses atour disposal and said we could alter or arraogo them as
we plea8<xl. He brought me four fowls and some rice. The next morning I made
him up a good present, which has pleased him very much. Shortly afterwards he
brought me a goat* Several small presents were brought in from minor chiefs,
which for the sake of establiiiljing a friendly feeling amongst all the people were
receivetl and acknowledged by a rather larger present in return. As the chief and
people are so friendly diaj)OBed, and the Irreality suitable, I feel I cannot do better than
make this my head-quarters, and from this place visit all the aurrounding country.
( « )
The late Dr. G. A. Fischer's Expedition for the Belief of Dr. Junker.
A PRELDCiNABT report from the pen of the late Dr. Fischer on this im-
portant bnt unfortunate expedition, the progress of which we have
noted &om time to time, is published in the current number of Feter-
mann's ' Mitteilungen.' It will be remembered that the expedition
was fitted out at the expense of Dr. Junker's brother, the banker of
St. Petersburg. Dr. Fischer's choice of routes was made in ignorance of
the hostility of the new King of Uganda. In preference to the route
through the Masai country and the district of Usoga, and also of the
usual caravan route to Victoria Nyanza vi& Tabora, the traveller decided
to proceed direct to Kagehi, on the southern shores of the lake, by the road
which the Fangani caravans take to the district of Umbugwe. After
some delay, a fEivourable start was made from Fangani, on the 3rd
August, 1885, the party numbering over 200. The general direction
taken was west-north-west over the hilly country to Nguru, to the flat
tablelands of the South Masai territory, until the district of Irangi was
reached. The want of a guide, and the scarcity of water along the
road, compelled the traveller to alter his plan aud to turn to the south-
west. Skirting the country of Usandawi, he travelled for a short dis-
tance along Stanley's old route through Uwerewere. On the 14th
October he reached Usure, having crossed the small river Muaru or
Wembare (Stanley's Liwumba), which he ascertained does not, as repre-
sented by Stanley, join the Simiu, but loses itself, in the dry season, in
the plains of Wembare, and in the rainy season forms a lake. These
plains, according to the traveller's barometrical observations, are at
least 325 feet below the level of the Victoria Nyanza. Leaving Usure
after a rest of seven days, and passing through Usukuma, and along
the banks of the Simiu, he eventually reached Kagehi on the IGth
November, with his stock of goods considerably impoverished, owing to
the excessive and frequent tribute demanded by the chiefs of the many
districts traversed. Here the rumours as to the impassability of Uganda,
which had reached him for the first time in Irangi, were confirmed,
both by the Arab traders and by two messengers sent by himself across
the lake to the English missionaries in Uganda, and he had to abandon
the route. To this fact must be attributed the failure of the expedition,
as the traveller's stock, consisting chiefly of cotton goods, was selected for
the natives of Uganda, while the people of the countries through which
other routes lay buy nothing but copper wire and beads. The only
route that seemed open to him was that round the east side of the
lake, and then to Wadelai through the country to the north of Ussoga.
Accordingly, on the 11th January, 1886, after a stay of eight weeks in
Kagehi, unhealthy in the rainy season, the time having been occupied
in collecting geological and botanical specimens, the traveller set out.
46
DR. FISCHER'S EXPEDITION FOR THE RELIEF OF DR. JUNKER.
Eoimding Spelc© Gulf, and crossing the Simiu and the Rubana, the
l>arty entered the sparsely wooded country of Shashi, with its mouo-
tains 5000 feet above the sea, and its dry, treeloss plains, the
haunts of the zobra» gazelle, gnu, &c. Spades are much sought
after hy the agricnltnre-loving people of Shaahi. The territory of
^'iawasaii which was then traversed, is inhabited by a mixed popn*
lation of Ktiavis and Eantus* The Bantu language is spoken, but
the manners and customs are Kiiavi. A toilsome march through tall
grass where there w^aa no path hrougbt the party to the uninhabited
region of the Moii riixr, and thence into the important and densely
populated country of Kawirondo^ the physical features and inhabitants
of which are described by the traveller in detail. Crossing Njoro the
party reached its chief towoi, Ulala (Thomson's Kwa Sundu), the head-
quarters of the Mohammedan caravans. His slender stock of wire and
beads being almost exhausted, Dr. Fischer states he would have parted
willingly with weapons and ammunition in exchange for corn, hut the
natives themselves were suffering from famine ; thus his last hope of
proceeding further north was dashed to the ground. With only a
meagre stock of dnrrJai^ the traveller on the 22nd March set his face
eastwards to Lake Baringo, and following practically the route taken
by Thomson on his outward journey to Victoria Nyanza, reached the
south end of the lake in the first week of April. Being unable to obtain
here any fresh stack of goods* he loft the lake on tho 13th April, and
with sorrowful heart commenced the long march to the coast. Again
lull owing Thorn Bon*8 route in a Bouth-south-wcsterly direction, and
passing to the east of Lake Nakiiro» he arrived at the north end of Lake
Kaivasha* lie then struck across the highlands of Kinangop with the
view of reaching Mianzine, but being from lack of means without a
ji^uide, he lost bis way, and after a weary march, contrived to reach a
Kikuyu village on the west slope of the southern end of the Aberdare
range, the whole party being in a most exhausted condition. HerCj
fortunately, the traveller's cotton goods found a ready market, and he
was able to replenish his stock of provisions. Under the direction of a
guide the journey was resumed acroas the range at a height of over
8900 feet, but the party was shortly afterwards deserted by this guide
and left to spend two days in a bamboo thicket. Guided by some
natives the party marched for some miles through the thickly populated
and richly cultivated district of Kikuyu, in the direction of Mount
Kenia, two glimpses of whose cloud-covered summit were obtained,
l*hen turning Bouth-west, the traveller, after numerous adventures not
ultogether of a peaceable kind with the inhabitants, left the^e wooded
highlands, which he describeB as the most beautiful and luxuriant he had
ever seen in East Africa. Proceeding through the district of Liu, ho
marched along the east of the Ulu range, across the head-waters of the
Ssabaki, and thence via Kissigau to Wanga on the coast, where he arrived
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 47
on the 14th June last after an absence of eleven months. Dr. Fischer,
although nnsnccessful in the immediate object of his expedition, has
nevertheless added much valuable information to our knowledge of the
geography of Eastern Equatorial Africa, more especially of the east
coast of Lake Victoria Nyanza.
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
' Dr. Junker reached Zanzibar on the 11th ult.,and is now on his way
to Europe, where he is expected to arrive about the middle of January.
He will bring detailed news regarding the position of Emin Pasha and
the present state of the countries through which lies the best-known
route between his province and the East Coast. In a telegram from
Zanzibar to Mr. J. T. Wills, Dr. Junker gives us the very interesting
information that on his late journey he penetrated westward (from the
Monbuttu country) down the Welle-Makua river as far as 22^ E.
long., finding it generally navigable. At 22° E. Dr. Junker was only
about 150 miles distant from the point on the Mobanji tributary of the
Congo, reached by Mr. Grenfell in the steamer Peace. The conclusion
is therefore irresistible that these rivers are connected. With regard to
Emin Pasha, it is announced that an English private expedition, under
the command of Mr. Stanley, and supported by a grant of 10,000?. from
the Egyptian Government, is about to be despatched.
The Crater-lake of Chala, on Mount Kilimanjaro. — ^Mr. J. A. Wray,
writing from Sagalla, on November 19th last, informs us that he has
succeeded in reaching the edge of the water of the picturesque Lake
Chala, of which Thomson gave so charming a description after passing its
borders. Mr. Wray says it is about three miles long by one mile wide,
and the banks so steep that a descent to the water is impossible except
at one place on the western side. He found the water clear, cool, and
perfectly sweet, though the lake has no apparent inlet or outlet. It
contains fish, and numerous waterfowl were swimming on its surface, the
flapping of whose wings, when they took to flight, produced a sound,
through confused reverberation in the deep well-like basin, like the
rushing of a distant railway train. The steep banks, about 1000 feet
in height, are well wooded, and vegetation clothes their surface down
to the water's edge. There is no mark of higher water, and it probably
keeps the same level all the year round. The cries of birds had a
peculiar sound, and Mr. Wray had no doubt that it is these noises
which have given rise to the native myth, viz. that a Masai village
formerly stood here, which was swallowed up by the lake ; the people of
Taveta believing that they hear voices, the lowing of cattle, and so forth.
Count Pfeil*8 Journeys in East Africa. — In connection with the
German East African Association, Count Pfeil has recently made two
48
GEOGKAPfllCAL NOTES.
important journeys in Ea.st Africa, the first of whieli reanlted in tne
acquisition for the Association of tho large territory of Khtitn ; the
second was principally occupied with the exploration of the Ulanga
riven An iatere^ting accotint of these operations has been oontributod
hy the traveller himself to Petermann's * Mitttjiiungen * (1886, No, 12).
Starting in May 1885 from the German station of Muinie in Usagara,
he crossed the Mukondogwa valley and traversed the plain of Makata.
Ho discovered a largo village, hitherto unmarked on our maps, called
** IMhamba/' which is situated in Makata about two days* march from
Myombo* During the two days of his stay there no less than nine native
caravans arrived* Ue resumed his march southwards across the Rufutu
range, then turniog directly east entered the district of Khutu, and
again south he struck the Ruliji near the 36th parallel. On hie road to
the Rtifiji he passed through Rubehobeho^ the scene of Keith Johnson's
death. Continuing his journey down the river by boat, he arrived on
the coast at Mburai, the last part of the route having been accomplished
by land. — The second journey was commenced in October 188S. His
starting-point was again the station of Moinie, With the view of
exploring tho plateau of ITliebe the traveller crossed tho Rubeho range
and the Ruaba river, and then marched through the dry treeless country
situated between the latter and the mountains of IJhebe. His journey
along the tableland extended as far as Kuirenga, then retracing his
steps he again crossed the Rubeho chain more to the south, and turning
abniptly southwards anivetl on the banks of the Ulanga at Nga-homa.
This important river^ hitherto unknown, for Thomson on his journey to
the Central African lakes mistook an arm of the river for its main
stream, was ascended by tho traveller, in company with a friend and
twelve men, for a distance of about 150 miles, as far as the little village
of Muinga, in long. 35^ 5' E. and hit. 9*^ 5' S. The retuni journey was
also accomplished by boat down the river to the Suguli Falls, below
which the river is known as the Rufiji. Here tho party struck across
the country in a due east direction and arrived on tho coast at Kilwa
Kivinji in Felirnary 1886. The general direction of the Ulanga from
Nga-homa is west for a long distance, and then sen th- west to its source,
which lies among the mountains to the north-east of Lake Nyaesa.
Above Nga^homa it flows through the Mtihenge territory, between th©
Lijungo range on the right bank and the mountains of Uhebo on the
left. Its banks are generally steep and well-defined, but in places
where tho valley broadens the river overflows in marshes. Its breadth
at Kga-homa is 330 yards, while at its narrowest point it measures
nearly 90 yards. The depth in its lower course exceeils 20 feet at many
points, and is never less than 10 feet; thus this important waterway is
navigable for Kuiall steamers for a long distance. Tho volumo of water
in the river is very large oven in tho dry season, considering the few
and unimportant tribut^vries which it receives. In its broad stretohe^ the
1
GSOG&AraiCAL XOTCS. 49
rUnga is studded with islands, the haunts of birds of gay and varied
plumage. The natives live close to the banks, and aie described in
detail bj the traveller, whose notes on the fauna and flora of the r^on
possess ipecial interest.
Hr. LsBX^s Expedition. — ^Further news has been received from Dr.
Lenz, dated Eibonge. April 20th, Xyangwe, May 19th, and Kasonge,
June 1st. In company with Herr Bohndorf, in canoes supplied by Tippo-
Tip, Dr. Lenz ascended the Congo to Nyangwe, taking forty-eight days
between Stanley Falls station and that to¥m, indoding detentions of
several days at Kibonge and Riba-Riba. For the first few days a good
many cataracts were met with, and four times they had to transport the
canoes overland, over ground to a large extent marshy and covered with
bushes. Two days above the last cataract, about lat. 1^ S., Kibonge
(named after its chief) was reached, a very extensive settlement of Arabs
and Zanzibaris, on the right bank of the river. It was founded only nine
years ago by a Nyangwe trader, independent of Tippo-Tip. It consists
of some hundreds of what we may call homesteads, spread over a great
space, with a few thousand inhabitants. It lies very low and is most un-
healthy, especially for Europeans. Dr. Lenz found great changes along
the river since Mr. Stanley descended. The natives in many places have
retreated from the banks, to make way for Arab trading settlements and
enormous rice-fields, ^'owhere. Dr. Lenz states, has he seen in West
Africa so many and so extensive rice-fields. In the neighbourhood of
Kibonge provisions of all kinds are abundant. The whole life of the
place reminds one more of East than of West Africa. The natives here
live deep in the forest, are to a large extent cannibals, and make use of
poisoned arrows. After leaving Kibonge, the banks in many places
were found to be thickly wooded, with numerous signs of former native
settlements, now deserted, owing to the inroads of the Arabs. After
passing the mouth of the Kasaka, the banks showed evidences of native
^ettlements, some of them hostile, and others on friendly terms with the
Arabs. The Arab settlement of Riba-Biba was reached on May 2nd.
This place is named after its chief, a Mahommedan negro from Nyangwe ;
it is only four years old, and though not so large as Kibonge, does a great
business in ivory. Riba-Biba was left on May 5th, and next day the
mouth of the Elila was reached, a river on Stanley's map, on the right
bank, without a name, in the neighbourhood of which Stanley puts a
place named Urangi. The banks now became comparatively well
peopled, and on the 9th they became very steep, and the current rapid.
On the 10th a cataract (Tutumbe) was passed. Another cataract was
passed on May 15th, the cataract region here bearing the name of
Gulunga Wuesa. Nyangwe was reached on the 16th. After passing
the last cataract the river expanded greatly, and both sides were bordered
with numerous inhabited grass islands, the channels between which are
bewildering. Nyangwe lies about 100 feet above the river. It is not
No. L— Jan. 1887.] k
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
a compact town, but a cluster of small settlements, outside wKich are
groat rice- fields autl bauaoa pluuUtioDs. (^aravaus are continually
coming ami going, so that the population varies almost daily* The
town contains some very wel! built houses of sun-dried bricks. Pro-
visions arc abundant tind living cheap, !Nyangwe» l>n Lenz states, ii
by no means tbo important trading place which it is generally tlionght
to be in Europe. Though still prosperous, it has lost much of its impor-
tance since Kaaonge, a few days to the south-cast, has become so great.
It is not at Nj'angwe, but at Ka?;ongo, that caravans for Lake Tangan-
yika are fitted out. Kaaonge is Tippo-Tip's head-quartera, and he is
all-powerful. Dr. Lena arrived at this place on May 20th, and was
tho guest of Tippo-Tip. Kasonge ia surrounded by hills, with moun-
tains in the distance eastwards. The houses in Kasonge are arranged
in streets, many of them large and handsome, while the rice-fields are
some distance from the town on the neighbouring hills* It is the great
centre for the ivory and slave trades. Tippo-Tip has a great rival here
in Said Moliamed Kasuenda, though the two aro on good terms. At tbe
date of his letter (June let) Dr. Lenz did not Imow how long ho would
remain at Kasonge* It is evident, from what he tells us, that the whole
of the region traversed by hi eh is in the power of the Arab traders ; that
it ii becoming thickly peopled by themselves and their dependents;
and that the cultivation of rice is rapidly extending.^^It ma^' be well
to recall the fact that Dr, Lenz went qui with tbo object of reaching
Dr» Junker and Emin Pasha ; the former wo know is now safe at
Zanzibar, and if Dr. Lenz continued his journey as he hoped to do, ho
may by this time be within hail of Emin Pasha. The latest telegraphic
news, however, is that Dr. Lenz has been compelled to abandon hia
intention of reaching the Albert Nyanza,
Prejevalsky's recent Journey in Central Asia. — We hear from M.
Yenukoif that Colonel Prejevakky has returned to St. Petersburg from
his country seat, where he has spent the summer reposing after the
fatigue of his late journey, and that ho is preparing for publication the
results of his great expedition, Manj of the principal scientific men of
Eussia and other countiies arc engaged on tho examination and descrip-
tion of the natural history collections made in the deserts of Mongolia
and on the Tibetan plateau, and it is repmted that tho cost of bringing
out the work will exceed 3200^, sterling. A chapter of the personal
nanutivo will appear very soon in one of the liussian periodicals as a
specimen of tho work.
Progress of Russian Ixploratiou in Forthern Asia. — M. Yen ukoff also
gives us the following details regarding ri-ceirt Hussian scientific work
in Asia. MM, Potanin^ Skassy, and Be^e!^uf^ky have lately returned from
their expedition in China and Mongolia, bringing immense collections
in anthropology, zoology, and botany, besides maps of the countries
«
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 51
which they have traversed during their three years* journey (1884-6). —
M. Tchersky, an old political exile in Siberia, has just published at St.
Petersburg his geological map of the borders of Lake Baikal, together
with explanatory text in a separate pamphlet. It is an excellent work,
which adds greatly to our knowledge of the physical geography of this
great water basin, the best known of all the Asiatic lakes, thanks to his
labours and those of his predecessors, Dybowsky and Godlefsky (also
ci-devant Siberian exiles, but now professors in Poland), and the
eminent naturalist Dr. Eadde, besides numerous Eussian surveyors. —
M. Erasnof, the eminent botanist and physicist, on his return to St.
Petersburg, after his journey in the Tian Shan and Chinese Tiirkistan,
has entertained the Eussian Geographical Society by a brilliant lecture
on the Balkash basin, in which the general principles of physical geo-
graphy were applied in a searching and effective manner to the geogra-
phical description of the region and of Central Asia generally. — The
subject of the desiccation of the Siberian lakes continues to engage the
attention of the Eussian Geographical Society. Basing his case on
the facts adduced in M. Venukofifs memoir,* M. Yadrintzoff has urged
on the Eussian Geographical Society the necessity for more thorough
investigations, and a committee has been nominated for the purpose,
consisting of MM. Stebnitsky, Tillo, MushketofT, and Schmidt. It is
expected that an expedition will be despatched to study the subject on
the spot.
Merv. — A correspondent of the * Petersburger Zeitung' has forwarded
interesting details on the present condition of Merv. A fortress has been
built on the lofty right bank of the Murghab, whilst the modem town
of Merv extends along the left bank. Both are connected by a bridge,
somewhat slightly constructed of wood and iron. The climate is stated
to be most unfavourable to Europeans, and nowhere in this region,
except at Penjdeh, is the number of sick so numerous. New Merv num-
bers between two and three thousand inhabitants, more than half of
whom are officials and workmen employed upon the railway, the remain-
der being traders of all nationalities, including Armenians, Persians,
Bokharans, and many adventurers. A weekly market takes place outside
the fortress, at which provisions, fruits, vegetables, game, cattle, felt,
carpets, straw mats, wooden and leather ware, cotton stuffs, &c., are
sold. Most of the things sold are '* cheap and nasty." Cafes chantauts,
drinking-shops, and still less innocent places of resort abound.
Bnssian Expedition to the ST ew Siberian Islands. — According to the
latest news of the expedition under the leadership of Dr. Bunge and
Baron von Toll, the travellers have failed in their attempt to cross the
Glacial Ocean and reach the New Siberian Archipelago, in consequence
of the reindeer being attacked by distemper, in the vicinity of Ust-
♦ In the * Bevue de Gdograpliie,* July 1886.
s 2
52 GEOGRAPHICAL KOTES.
Yansk and Nijni-Kolymsk. They intend, therefore, to remain for some*
time in the district in order to dig up the complete skeleton of the
mammoth which they have found there.
Iceland. — Dr. Labonne reports to the Geographical Society of Paris
(26th August, 1886) from Akreyri in northern Iceland, that he had
just crossed the island from south to north through the central desert or
Sprengisandr. The journey was accomplished on a pony, and without
either tent or provisions. On the 14th July he made an ascent of Mount
Hekla, and with very favourable weather, rarely experienced there,
obtained an extensive view from the summit, embracing the Westmann
Islands, 60 miles distant. Several small columns of steam issuing from
small fissures in the rocks were the only indications of the activity of
the volcano. Its height above the sea-level, a disputed point among
explorers, he ascertained with the aid of a good barometer by Dutrou to
bo 5096 feet. The thermometer at the base of the mountain registered
57^ Fahr. (14*^ Cent.), and at its summit 18° Fahr. He saw the large
geyser in full activity, the column of boiling water rising over 100 feet
into the air. He was assured by his guide that for the last two years
the geysers had been very active, although recent travellers have asserted
that they were gradually becoming inactive. Dr. Labonne stayed three
days in this district in order to find traces of the former vegetation of
the country, which the "Sagas" or hymns of the ancient Icelanders
describe as luxuriant, whereas at the present time the only tree found is
the Sorhtis Aucuparia, At the suggestion of M. Bureau, professor of
paleeontological vegetation at the Natural History Museum of Paiis, the
traveller tried to find traces of this vegetation under the beds of silica
round the basins of the geysers. He was fortunate in obtaining a large
piece of rock, situated at a depth of about 16 feet, incrusted with leafy
stems of the Betula alba, Salix caprsea, and Salix arctica. This valuable
specimen will be submitted to competent authorities on his return.
Meanwhile a superficial examination shows that the size of these stems
and leaves is not larger than that of existing shrubs. It may be re-
marked that the formation of a bed of silica 16 feet deep would require
at least 1000 years, or about the time that the island has been known to
Europeans. The valley of the geysers, now denuded of vegetation, was
formerly covered with small shrubs, which owe their disappearance not
to any change of temperature, but to the fact that the natives pluck
them up in winter for firewood. The ti-aveller concludes by remarking
on the exceptional cold experienced last August in Iceland, due to the
icebergs remaining stationary on the north coast of the island.
Mr. Seton-Earr'8 Account of Mt Saint Ellas.— Mr. 0. Mitchell Grant,
Secretary of the Geographical Society of the Pacific, San Francisco,
informs us that Mr. Seton-Karr states that Mount St. Elias is not less
than three miles to the east of the 141st meridian, and over thirty
miles from the coast, thus being in Canadian territory. With regard to
REPORT OF THE EVENING MEETINGS. 53
the river named after Mr. Jones of the New York Ttmes, he says that he
considered it was produced by the molting of the enormous glaciers in
the neighbourhood. He estimates the area of Agassiz and Guyot glaciers
(so named by the party) as not less than 1800 square miles, including
their tributaries. The Tyndall glacier is the principal glacier, descend-
ing directly from the south-west face of the mountain. He also con-
eiders the Icy Bay or Jones river to be larger than, and not identical
with the Riko BoLshe Vuala of Portoff. Lieut. Schwatka stated that it
was too large to be produced merely by the melting ice. Mr. Karr,
who ascended 400 feet higher than Woods, and over 1000 feet higher
than Mr. Schwatka, saw no break in the chain, and nothing but fields of
ice in every direction, from the highest point reached below the clouds.
The party claim to have made the highest ascent ever recorded above
the snow-line.
The Kew French Census. — From the preliminary statistics of the
census of France, which was taken on May 30th last, we find the popu-
lation at that date to be 37,885,905. This shows an increase on the
-census taken December 18th, 1881, of 213,857, in 5]^ years, or at the rate
of only • 1 per cent per annum. This is a great falling-ofT in the rate of
increase from that between the census of 1878 and 1881, when it was
-415 per cent. As in the former period there has been a considerable
decrease in the population of some of the departments.
The Kew Oerman Census. — The results of the German census taken
December 1st, 1885, show a much greater rate of increase. The popula-
tion then was 46,844,926, as compared with 45,234,061 five years
previously, showing an increase of 1,610,865, or at the rate of '71 per
kxidL per annum. But even this is a falling off from the two previous
periods ; between 1871 and 1875 the increase was at the rate of 1 ' 01
per cent, per annum, and between 1875 and 1880 at the rate of 1 • 14 per
cent, per annum.
REPOBT OP THE EVENING MEETINGS, SESSION 1886-7.
Third Meeting^ Deeeniber 13/A, 1886. — General A. Strachey, r.e., f.r.s.,
Vice-President, in the Chair.
Pbesektation. — Edwin Bauson Freshfield, Esq,
Electioss. — Henry Anderson Bryden^ Esq. ; Sir Duncan Campbell of Barcal-
dine^ Bart ; Alfred James Day, Esq. ; William Keswick, Esq. ; Percy Mathews,
Esq.; William Prince, Esq.; George Sadler, Esq.; James McDougall, Esq.;
Ernest Henry William Tripe, Esq. ; Eev. Ernest E. Wood ; Henry Page Wood-
ward, Esq.
The paper read was : —
'* Journey of the Expedition uoder Colonel Woodthorpe, B.B., from Upper Assam
to the Irawadi and return over the Patkoi Range.' By Major C. B. Macgregor
(BeDgal Staff Corps). Ante, p. 19.
{ 54 )
PROCEEDINGS OF FOEEIGN SOCIETIES.
Geographical Society of Paris* — ^November 5th, 1S86 ; M, A. Germatk m
the chair, — This was the first meetin^c of the Society after tho recess. Among the
announcpmenta made by the Secretary were the foUowitig : — The National Consxress
of French Geogmphical Societies wotjld be held next year (1887) at Havre^ simul-
taneously with the International Naval Exhibition; Lieut.-Col, Gallieni had just
started to take the chief command on tho Upper Senegal and the Upper Niger ; M.
E. Viard was on the eve of departure fram Saint Louis on a new journey into tho
interior of Africa, — M. Alpbonse Pinart presented two short papers by himself on,
the State of Panama, in which he gives some interesting ethnographical details on
the Cunos Indians ; tbeao papers form part of a proposed series of fifteen.— M. T.
Barbosa Rodri^es^ Director of the Botanical Museum at Maoaoa (Brazil), sent a
copy of a work just published by him od the river Juapery and the Indian tribes
inhabiting its bonks. The author was the first to explore this rivt>r. He further
transmitted his own surveys of the Ca|Hiy, Yarauodfl, and Urubu rivers. — -It
was stated that M. Leon Poirier had bequeathed to the Society the sum of 200,000
francs (8000?.) the interest on which was, according to the conditions of tho
legacy, to be invested every three years in an annuity (never to exceed GOL) to
be awardeti to one or more travellers of French birlh whose works should be
considiTed the most valuable to science*^ — An iuiportant communication was
forwarded by iL Leon Dru, on the results of bis mission in regard to the proposed
canal between the Volga and the Don. — M. Venukoff forwarded a summary of
recent geographical work in the Bnssian Empire, He gives some of the results of
M, Tcheniichev*s barometrical obtsorvations in the south of the I'ral Mountains
(1882-5). The Ural Mountains are, from a hypsometrical point of view» the least
known of any range in Europe, M, Tchernichev has determined the precise altitude
of ten summits possessing an elevation of over 3280 feet (1000 metres). The
Academy of Sciences of St. Petersburg has just published General Tillo*a memoir on
magnetism in Siberia, which is accompanied by a map, showing tliat the horizontal
comjKtnent of the magnetic force of the earth diminishes towards the east across
Northern Siberia under from 65°-80° latitude, but increases under the 50*'-52^
parallels* The return to Kussia of MM. Potanine, Skassy^ and Beresovsky was
daily expected. They bad explored the north-west of China and a considerable part
of southern Mongolia* M. Skasay has determined more thnn a hundred astronomical
points and aeveral hundred altitudes. MM. Ignatiev and Krasnoff had complt^ted
their studies on the Khttn*Tengri group in tho Tbian Shan, and had penetrated to
the south as far as the town of Ush-Turfan. M. Krasnoff had proceeded into Russian
Turki'Stau and the region of Merv in order to examine the flora of the country in its
relation to the vegetation of Eastern Turkestan. M. Groum-Grjimanio, whoso
object was to study the flora of Eastern Pamir, had met with extraordinary difficulties
on his journey. He had visited the environs of Kashgar* but had not succeeded in
penetrating into the mountains of Upper Pamir in consequence of the bad weather. —
Several communications were read ujjon Tongking, one from Lieut. L, de Mazenad,
giving an accoimt of a journey along tho Upi>er Mekong, which was found to be
navigable as far as the Kong Falls, and one from M. de Montaignac, announcing a
scheme for the organisation of the Muongs which had been proposed by M. Gouin,
the French Kesident, and M, Moulin, Chancellor, and had been favourably received
by the nativea. M. Gouin transmitted a short paper on the Muongs, which will be
inserted in the Quarterly BulIetin.^ — Two short notes were read from M. E* Renou,
Director of the Meteorological Observatory of the Pare du St. Manr, on the altitude
of several points in Morocco, and on the different routes from Morocco to Timbuctu,—
PROCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES. 55
Dr. Bouire presented a resume of the paper just published by him in the Bulletin of
the Geographical Society of Lyons, which deals with the hydrography and orography
of Central Tunis and its agreement with the Ptolemaic account. He has been able to
identify all the peaks mentioned by the latter, and to confirm his hydrography. —
A communication was read from Dr. Ten Kate on his recent operations in Guiana.
He started from Paramaribo on the 15th December, 1885, to visit the natives on the
Upper Surinam, but was compelled to return on account of the exceptional dryness
of the season and the consequent shallowness of the river. He then sailed down
the coast to Albania, a small colony on the Lower Maroni, where he visited the
Indians along both banks of the river. He proceeded next to Georgetown, intending
to accompany M. im Thum on a journey up the Pomerun river, but the absence of
the latter in Europe compelled him to alter his plans. He accordingly embarked on
a steamer up the Orinoco and reached Angostura on the 7th of March. From this
point he struck across the country to Cumana, where he arrived after a journey of
eighteen days. He described briefly the natives and physical features of the districts
through which he passed. The people, mostly Indians and balfbreeds, are very poor,
in oonaequenoe of the numerous political revolutions and the drought of last summer,
when swarms of grasshoppers invaded the country, devouring the harvests of maize,
cassava and sugar-cane. Directly after leaving Angostura the traveller crossed the
vast sandy Llanos and passed the three rivers, Morichal, Tigre, and Guanipa. llien
the route led over a chalky and schistose sierra with almost impracticable paths.
Among the mountains, which are very little wooded, he stayed a short time in the
beautiful valley of the Gu&charo near Caripe, where he visited the celebrated grotto of
which Humboldt gave the first description. On the 30th March ho reached Cumana,
which has suffered greatly from earthquakes ; along the Gulf of Cariaco he visited
the Guayquery Indians. An attack of marsh fever compelled him to seek a more
temperate climate, and after a stay of some weeks in the United States he returned
to Holland. — ^The Minister of Public Instruction communicated a letter dated
27th June, 1886, from M. A. Thouar, according to which the traveller, after a
laborious journey from Tarija, had reached the Bolivian frontier where he had been
attacked by fever. Later news mentions his arrival at Sucre and his recovery from
two further attacks of fever. He intended to return to Buenos Ayres through Chaco
about the end of December. — From Chili, M. R. Serrano sent an account of the
recent geographical and hydrographical works executed in the country, which
include several new surveys along the coast, and a large part of Tierra del Fuego.
—Captain Soaville addressed a letter on the Pitcaim and ^Norfolk Islands, upon
which a discussion arose, M. Depping, M. de Quatrefages, and Dr. Hamy taking part. —
In conclusion, M. Bouquet de la Grye, of the Institut, read at the invitation of the
Chairman, a short report of the meeting of the French Geographical Societies which
took place at Nantes during August.
November 19th, 1886 : M. A. Germain in the Chair. — A communication
was read from M. Hangsen-Blangsted on the physical aspect of Denmark during
the eleventh century as compared with its present state. — A letter from M. Yenukoff
gires the relative altitude of the highest point (Lake Bolshoe) of the canal uniting
the Obi with the Yenisei, as 62 feet above the level of the former river at its
junction with the Kite, and 180 feet above that of the latter at a corresponding
point. As Lake Bolshoe is three times nearer to the Yenisei than the Obi, it follows
that the slope on the eastern side is much greater than on the western. — Recent
observations made by M. TAbb^ Desgodins at Phedong (Tibet), were transmitted
to the Society by his brother. — Captain Bernard forwarded from Fort National
(Algeria), the report of the mission in South Algeria with which he was charged
in the winter 1884-5. — Reference was made by the General Secretary to the
rROCEEDlNGS OF FOftElGN SOCIETIES.
report that MM. Capus and llonvalot, the Frencli travellers in Central Asia,
had been arretted m Af^banistsin. The Clmirmim stated that aji applicatiou
would be made to the Minister for Foreign Aifairs for Jiia intervention if the
news were confirmed, — M. G. Bepping read a letter from Comte Fressinet de
Ballanger giving the results of hia investigations on the locality of the grave of
Tavernier, He establishes the fact that the great traveller waa buried in the
Protcatant Cemetery near Moscow. — A ctimrautiication waa made by M. Guerin on
the Bubject of geographical teaching by means of etereographic projection, i. e. repre-
senting the earth as seen in parallel perspective. He waa of opinion that thin method
was the simplest and most easily understood,^ — The Chairman announced that the
general meeting of the Society, at which the Secretary's report on the progress of
geography would be read, wouhi take place on the 17th December, and that the Annual
Banquet haa been fixed for the 20th December. ^E* Ferd. de Lesaeps would preside.
— M. Rouvier, French Consnl at Buenos Ayres, in a deajatch of 2GLh September,
addressed to the Minister for Foreign Affairs, announced the discovery of auriferous
bearings in Tierra del Fuego, more particularly in the country round San Sebastian
Bay. — In conclusion Captain Longhoia read an account of his journey to Shoa, the
object of which waa the exiiloration of the Awash and its basin, Hia remarks were,
however, of an ethnographical rather than of a geographical character.
Geographical Society of Frankfurt-oE-Main. — December 8th, lB8r>,
Fiftieth Antiivenmry. Thi; Prei^ideni uf the Societ}^ Senator Dr. von Oven, pre-
sented a rc])ort of the fifty years* work of the Society, which, having been fonnded
on December 9th, 1836, is the oldest in Germany, that of Berlin alone excepted.
Prof. Theobald Fiacher of Marburg then delivered an addreas in which he traced the
progress of geographical science during the past fifty years. A large number of
Honorary members were elected in celebration of the event, including the Presidents
of the geographical Societies of Berlin, Madrid, Paris, Turin, Ley den, and London,
Prof, Kordenskiold, General Prejevabki, Dr. Schweinfurth, Prof. B, Studer, Major
Powell of the United States, Mr. E. G. Bavenatein, &c.
Geographical Society of Mmiicll.— December 3rd, 1886. Lieut, Baron von
Gravenrtuth read a paper on Eastern Africa^ in the course of which he gave au
account of an expedition up the Pangani, in which he took part. Owing to the
desertion of the carriers the expeditiou failed to reach Mt. Kiliuumjaro, A station,
Korogwe, was founded on the Pangani. In ooncUiaion the author gave a general
account of the territories recently acquiret^i by Germany in Eastern Africa, and
apoke favourably of their natural wealth and hygienic conditions. Prof. Dr. Brenner
then read a pa|)er on Ola us Magnus**! Map of Northern Europe, the original of which,
dated 1539, was discovered by him in the Munich Town Library. (Comp. * Pro-
coedings,M886, p. 790).
Geographical Society of Berlin* — December 4th, 1886 : W. Esibs in the
chair. — At the commencement of the proceedings the Chairman alluded to the recent
sudden death of the meritorious African traveller Dr. G, A. Fischer, and stated that
the Geographical Society of Hamburg at their Kitting of the 2nd December had
decided to send to the parents of the traveller the gold Kirch en pauer Medal, being
the first year of the award of that majrk of honour. The Chairman also greeted, in the
name of the Society, Prof, H, Kiepert on hia safe return from Asia Minor, and expressed
his satisfaction that the serious accident said to have befallen him proves to be a false
report, — Captain Henniog then addressed the meeting on his two years* residence in
China and Korea in the Chinese service. The speaker dilated more eapecially on
the pecnliarities of the Chinese character, and the position of the Chinese in relation
to western civilisation. He waa of opinion that the adoption of western ideas by the
I
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUCATIONS. 57
Chinese would bring with it no injury to Europe, as they would be able to do nothini;
without Europeans. China, moreover, is not so rich a country as generally supposed,
proof of which is afforded by the facts that a family can live there very comfortably
for 30 dollars a month, and that the Viceroy of Canton, for example, has an estab-
lishment far inferior to that of many private persons in Europe. He believes it to
he incorrect to attribute the emigration from China [to over-population. China, on
the avera;2:e, was not so over-populated a country as the as^ject of its large cities and
coast districts has led observers to assume. Captain Henning added that Peking,
with 50 square kilometers of area, has only 600,000 inhabitants, whilst Berlin with
63 square kilometers has 1,400,000, and Loudon with 320 square kilometers has
4,000,000.— Dr. Stapff (formerly geologist to the St. Gothard Railway), then read a
paper on the geology of the neighbourhood of Walfish Bay and the Kuisip Valley,
from which he had returned a few months ago, and of which he had constructed an
exoellent geological map. He laid stress on the great influence exercised by the loose
sand in connection with the wind on the configuration of the ground and on the
rocks. At first sight one would suppose the great quantity of polished and rounded
stones encumbering the ground in many places were due to water action, whereas, in
fact, the rounding and polishing have been effected by the wind-driven sand. The
periodical mortality of fishes in Walfish Bay he attributed to the occasional sub-
marine eruption of sulphuretted hydrogen gas, of which he perceived traces at the
southern entrance to the bay.
NEW GEOGEAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
(By J. ScoiT Keltie, Librarian b.g.s.)
EUBOPE.
Essays on the Street Be-alignment, Be-oonstruction, and Sanitation of Central
London, and on the Be-housing of the Poorer Classes ; to which Prizes offered by
William Westgarth were awarded by the Society of Arts, 1885. London, G. Bell
and Sons, 1886 : 8vo., pp. vi. and 276, plans. [Presented by the Council of the
Society of Arts.]
CPranceJ — Voies Navigables. Manuel des distances comprises entre les principaux
points de chaque voie. Paris, Imprimerie Nationale, 1882: 12mo., pp. 352.
[Presented by the French Minister of Public Works.]
This is useful as a reference book for the lengths of French rivers and the
distances between the leading positions thereon.
Lebonr, G. A. — Outlines of the Geology of Northumberland and Durham. 2nd
edition as regards Northumberland. Newcastle, Lambert & Co., 1886. [Presented
by the Author.]
VerSfientlichung des Eonigl. Preussischen Geodatischen Instituts. Lothabweich-
ungen. Helt L Fonneln und Tafeln sowie einige Numerische Ergebnisse fiir
Norddeutschland. Der Allgemeinen Konferenz der intemationalen Erdmesaung
im Oktober 1886 zu Berlin gewidmet Berlin, P. Stankiewicz, 1886: 4to., pp. x.,
d4, and 26, plates.
ASIA.
[Cobham, C. Delaval.]— An attempt at a Bibliography of Cyprus. Nicosia, 1886 :
12mo, pp. 12.
The author states, in a note, that he has here attempted to register the titles
of books treating of Cyprus, its people, history, numismatics, epigraphy, and
language, of which he dm found any trace.
58
NEW GEOGKAFHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
AFBICA.
BeEtley, [EevJ W* Holman-— "Dictionary and Grammar of the Kongo Langna^jp,
as spoken at San Salva^lor, the Ancient Capital of tbe Old Kongo Empire, West
Africa. Compiled and Prepared for the Baptist Mijision on the Kongo River,
West Africa. London, publlj^hei by the Baptist Missionary Society, and
Trubner & Co., 1886 : 8m, pp, 244, plate. [Presented by R. N, Gust, Esq.]
Hore, Annie R. — To Lake Tanganyika in a Bath Chair. LondoE, Sampson Low
& Co., 1886 ; 8vo., pp. x. and 217* Price 7s, 6ri. [Presented by the Publishers.]
There is^ of course, nothing new to the geographer in Mrs. Hore's interestincj
little volume. She endured with pluck tho well-known hardships of African
travel, though one rejirets that it was considered necessary to aubject her infant
child to the fevera and other trials which a01icted the poor little fellow. The
book is nseful as showing that Kuro]X!an women as well as men can live and
fiourish in Home fxirts of Atrica ; though it slionld be remembered that the sit©
of Mrs. Hore'a home is unusually healthy. Captain More has built bis house
on the island of Kavala, off tbe we«t side of the lake, near tbe Loudon Missionary
Society's station of Mtowa, Mrs. Hore gives some interesting details concern! og
her own and her husband's work among the natives. There is a route map and
a map of Lake Tanganyika.
Law St [Rev* Br.] and Mr a- — The Tsbiguoda Language of the Lower Zambesi
Region, Kast Africa. Vocabularies by Bev. Dr, and Mrs. Laws, Free Church of
Scotland Mission. Privately printed by the Liviugstonia Mission Committee,
188G. Edinburgh, James Thin : 12mo,, pp. 64.
Laws, [Sev.] Robert^^Table of Concords and Pamdigm of Verb of the Chin-
yanja Lauguage, as spoken at Lake Nyasa. Edinburgh, James Thio, 1885,
Silos, A- — A Vocabulary of the Kiteko, as spoken by tbe Batekc (Batio) and
kindred tribes oo the Upper Congo. English-Kiteke. London, Hodder &
Stoughton, 1886 : 12mo,, pp. xii. and 190. [Presented by H. G. Guinness,
Esq.]
AMERICA.
[America, United States.] — Department of the Interior. Tloited States Geological
Survey. J. AV, Powell, Director. Bulletins of tho United States Geological
Survey, Nos, 27-29. Washington, Government Printing Office, 1886 : 8vo^ map
and plates. [Presented by the Director of the U*S. Geological Survey.]
No. 27. Report of Work done in the Division of Chemistry and Physics
mainly during; the Fiscal Year 1884-85.-'No, 28. The Gabhros and Associated
Hornblende Kcxiks occurring in the Neighbourhood of Baltimore, Md. By
G^rge Huntington Williams, ph.d. — No. 29. On the Presh*w»ler Inverte-
brates of the North American Jurassic. By Charles A, White, m.d.
[Tenth Census of the United States, 1880,] Vols. xvi. and xx. Washington,
GorernmeDt Priutitig Office^ 1885-1886 : 4to., maps and illustrations.
Bancroft, H, H,— The Works of Hubert Howe Bancmft. VoK XXI 1. History
of California. Vol. V., 1846-1848.— Vol. XXIX. History of Oregon, Vol h
1834-1848. San Francisco, The History Company, 1886 : 8vo., pp, (Vol. XXIL)
XV. and 784 (Vol. XXLX.), xxxix, and 789, maps,
Harrower; Henry B. — Captain Glazier and his Lake. An inquiry into the history
and progress of exploration at the liead-waters of the Mississippi since the discovery
of Lake Itaiica. New York, Ivison & Co. [1886] : 8vo., pp. 58.
Although we cannot admire the spirit of personality in which this pamphlet
is written, it must be admitted that the author baa brought together much
useful information with reference to explomtiopK at the source of the Mississippi
previous to Captain Glazier*s expedition. Mr. Harrower maintains tho identity
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUCATIONS. 59
of Lake Glazier with tbe well-kDown Lake Elk. With reference to the source
of tbe Mississippi, Mr. Harrower contends that the main thing to do is to
determine and locate tbe watershed which separates the Itasca l^in from the
sources of the Bed River of the north on tbe one band, and from the head-
springs of tributaries of the Mississippi on tbe other. Having definitely outlined
the drainage basin to the south of Itasca, it is wortb while to trace the principal
feeders of the lake to their springs, to determine the area drained by each, the
volume of their flow, and tbe rapidity of their currents, to measure the elevation
of their extreme sources above the level of Lake Itasca, and to find how far they
are perennial, and how much of their currents dry during a portion of the year.
Otber points will also be solved, such as changes in the water-supply of tbe
region, alterations in levels and dimension of lakes and pcmds, and also whether
any time Elk Lake and Itasca Lake were a continuous body of water. Indeed,
at the date of issuing Mr. Harrower's paper (Oct. 1886), he states that his
publishers bad themselves sent out an expedition ** fully equipped with instru-
ments for the complete survey and delineation of the region which supplies the
cbief feeders of Lake Itasca."
[Jamaica.] — The Handbook of Jamaica for 1886-87 : containing historical,
statistical, and general information concerning the island. Published by authority.
By A. C. Sinclair and Laurence R. Fyfe. London, Stanford, 1886 : 8vo., pp. xii.
and 548.
This is one of tbe most useful and exhaustive of colonial handbooks^ con-
taiuing a good deal of information useful to geographers.
AUSTRALIA.
QneenslancL — Report on the Greology and Mineral Resources of the Districts of
Eilkivan and Black Snake. (By the Assistant Government Geologist.) Brisbane,
J. C. Beal, Groverument Printer : folio, pp. 8, maps and plans.
RobillBOn, [Sir] W. C. F. — ^The Physical Geography of the South-west of Western
Australia : a Paper read before the South Australian Branch of the Geographical
Society of Australia, on tbe 27th September, 1886. Adelaide, E. Spiller,
Government Printer, 1886 : 8vo., pp. 18, map.
OCEANIA.
Browilf LEcvJ G., and Danks* B.— A Dictionary of the Duke of York Island
Language, New Britain Group ; also, a Grammar of the same, and an Introduction.
By Rev. G. Brown, f.r.o.s., &c. [hi manuscript] Sydney, 1882, 8vo., pp. vi.,
Ixx. and 328. [Presented by tbe Rev. G. Brown.]
GabeleiltZ,[Prof.lGeorg vender.— The Languages of Melanesia. [From the
• Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society of Great Britain and Ireland,' vol. xviii,
Part 4.] 8vo., pp. 7. [Presented by R. N. Gust, Esq.]
Helanesian Mission.— The Island Voyage, 1885. Ludlow, C. A. Partridge,
1885 : 8vo., pp. 53, map. [Presented by R. N. Oust, Esq.]
GENERAL.
Andr^y Sichard. — Ethnograpbische Earten. In ' Mittheilungen des Yereins fur
Erdkunde zu Leipzig,' 1885, pp. 175-240.
This is a serviceable list, with critical remarks, of 170 ethnographical maps
relating to various parts of the world.
Clark, Latimer.— IVansit Tables for 1887. Giving Mean Time of Transit of tbe
Sun and of certain Clock Stars for every day in the year. Compiled from the
•Nautical Almanac' for popular use. London, Spon, 1887[6].
60
NEW GEOGRAPniCAL PUBLICATIONS.
Bollen, W^ — Zeitstem-Fphemeriden auf das Jahr 1886 fur die Zeitbcstimmirafr
vennittekt dcB Trjif;barea Durchgangsmslmments im Yerticale des Polaraterm>.
St.-Fetersburg, 18S6 ; large 8vo.» pp. xxiii* and 27.
Izvestiya TmperatorBkago Rusakago geo;Trapliiclieskago obahestva. Tom. xxiu
Vypu&k 3. St* Petersburg, 188G : pp, 225-352, with map.
This lumiber of tiie * PrLKJcedinjrs * of the linssian Gcogmpbical Societj'
contains the fuliawing articles: — Tiie iDflueiiee of Piussian colonisation on the
character of the Stavropol region, D* Ivauof. Information on the Northern Ural,
with map, E. Feodorol and P* Ivanof. Geodetic and cartographical works of
the corfss of military tojxigraphcrs in 1885, besides nott'S and reports of the
expeditions. Under the last-named heading are three letters from the well-
known scientific trEivelkr and explorer N. Potanin, dated from Sining, Tonkir,
and Gavlai the 22Dd March, 2(14) Aprd, and 11(23) June, 1886.
M. Potanin writes these letters on his way back to Itiisaia from the north-
eastern borders of Tihet. His |jarty consisUd of M. Skassy, to|"iographeT, and M.
B^rdzofsky, natnralist. Besides tliese Mr. Parker of the China Inland Missioa
joined the party and was to accompany them to Su-c!iau. Potauin'a last
letter describes their march acrotts the Nan-tbau mountain range ae^iarating the
basin of the Yellow Eiver from the plains of Sonthern Mongolia* The pasAca
were 13,000 feet high, and the valleys not much klow 10,000 feet. At the end
of April they found Lake Koko-nor still covered with ice though Prejevalsky m
1873 saw it oj^on a month earlier, M. Potanin mentions extensive goldniiggiiiga
seen by hiui in the valley of the BardoDj and outcrops of coal in this and the adja-
cent valley of Lontiir, He came across a people called Yegnri living in the
northern mrta of the Kau-ahan range between Kan-chau and Sii-chau, and
believes that he is the first to make tlieir exiKtence known in Europe* They
suffered severly during the late Muhommedan rising in Western China, and their
numbers were reduced to some SOO families. They speak the Mongolian
language, and are subject to the governor of Kan-su. The Chinese call them
Hwang-fan ; their ancient tribal names liave disappeared, having given place
to Chinese names referring to the number of horses each tribe had to pay as
tribute to the Emperor of China. The Yeguri are all Lamaists by religion
and |X)sseas seven monasteries. They are ruled by elders appointed by the
Chinese authorities.
A route survey of M, Potanin's journey based on 4G astronomically deter-
mined poaiiioDs has been executed by M. ISkassl, M. Bereiwfsky remains in
Kan-su till ISBT, to bant and collect s|>ecimens of natural history.
Borne interesting particulars of an ex|^ition to Klmu Tengri, furnished by
A- N. Krnsnuf, arc in the same number of the Ixvestiya. — [E^ D, M.]
Jahresbericht am 25 Mai 188Gdem Comity der Nicolai-Ilauptstemwarle abgestattet
vom Director der Sterawarte. 8t* Petersburg, 1B8(S : 8vo., pp. 52,
IianeEiaili J.-I,— L'Expansion Coloniale de la France. Avec 10 Cartes hors
teste. Paris, P^lix Alcan, 1886 ; 8vo., pp. ixiii. and lOlG. Price 10*.
There have been a good many books recently on the French colonies ; that
of M. Lanesaan ia one of the most carefully written aud complete. It includes
Algfria, Tunis, and Aladagascar, aud in the case of each colony gives a fairly
satisfactory account of the geography and ethnology, followed by sections on
the history of the colony, its expansion, its induatries, its trade, and its adminis-
tration. M. Lanessan in his introduction discusses the subject of colonisation
from what he calls a natural history point of view. The modern migration is
simply the continuation of the movements which have prevailed among restless
humanity from the first, movements which have led to the peopling of the
earth, to the mixture of races, to the suppression of the weaker by the stronger,
to those conditions which we recognise as civilisfttion. **Thi8 colonial exf>an-
sion, which at the present time impels the greatest nations of Europe towards
the most distant and wildest regions of our globe, api>ears to be aimply tho
destineii and necessary manifestation of the life of these nations. Like Athens
and fc>i>arta in Asia, like Rome in Gaul, France, England, and Germany seek
I
N£W GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS. 61
in India, Oceania, the extreme East, the riches necessary for the satisfaction of
their wants. In exchange they carry with them into distant regions, with the
prodocts of their industries, the genius which animates them. If you ask
me to strike in millions the balance of this double operation, I would make
reply that it matters little to me to know what the conquest of Gaul cost the
Roman people ; I am satis6ed to know that France of the present day is the
result of the colonial expansion of Rome, as the Algeria, Indo-China, Mada-
gascar, Tunis of the future will be the result of the colonial expansion of
France."
FhilippsoXL, Alfred. — Studien iiber Wasserscheiden. In * Mittheilungen des
Vereins ftir Erdkunde zu Leipzig,' 1885, pp. 243-402.
This is one of those thorough studies in scientific geography, so common in
Germany, and hitherto so rare here. Prefixed is a long and useful list of
authorities which the writer has consulted on the subject. The monograph is
divided into four sections. In the first the author deals with what he calls the
first or original positions of water-partings. Under this head he endeavours
to show the importance for its history of the last emergence of a laud from the
sea ; the connection of water-partings with the relief of the land at the time
of this occurrence ; the preparation of a relief suitable for a water-parting (1)
by the forces at work during the submergence of the land, (2) by the forces at
work under the sea, (3) by those at work at the time of emergence. He then
goes on to sketch the position of water-partings after the emergence of various
types of land-surface— surfaces of abrasion, stratified plateaus, soft lands,
regions of foldincr^ or crumpling, regions of upheaval. In the second section
the author deals with the displacement of water-partings under the heads of
the fall of water-partings to a position of stability ; factors which can efi^ect
changes in water-partings; and the obliteration and re-formation of water-
partings. In the third section he deals with the topographical morphology of
water-partings under the heads of peculiarities of the vertical cross-section,
the vertical longitudinal section, the horizontal projection. In the fourth sec-
tion the author treats of the course of water-partings in various regions of the
globe, arranged under his previous classification of types of surface. The
author endeavours to arrive at a satisfactory definition of a water-parting. The
definition of water-parting as the boundary between river-basins he con-
siders too v&eue. The definition of a water-parting as the boundary line
between two directions of drainage he considers too wide. He ofiers the lollow-
ing as more satisfactory than either: — A water-parting is that line which
divides two difierent directions of surface drainage from each other. Finally,
he divides water-partings into two great groups : — 1. Those which stand in
approximately complete relations with the present arrangement of their sub-
structure ; these he designates Concordant Water-partings. 2. Those which
do not stand in any such relation, and which the author designates as Dis-
cordant Water-partings.
The following works have also been added to the Library :—
Carlyle, [EevJ J. E. — South Africa and its Mission Fieldg. London, J. NisLet
& Co., 1878 : 8vo., pp. viii. and 325.
Mitchell, [Mrs.] Murray.— A Missionary's Wife among the Wild T.ibes of
South Bengal. Extracts from the Journal of Mrs. Murray Mitchell. Witli
Introduction and Supplement by Dr. George Smith. Edinburgh, John Maclarcn ;
London, J. Kisbet & Co., 1871 : 12mo., pp. viii. and 70.
Mullens, Joseph. — Missions in South India, visited and described. London, W.
H. Dal ton, 1854 : 8vo., pp. vii. and 191, map.
Proceedings of the General Conference on Foreign Missions, held at the Conference
Hall in Mildmay Park, London, in October 1878. Edited by the Secretaries to
the Conference. London, J. F. Shaw & Co., 1879 : 8vo., pp. viiL and 434.
63
KEW MAPS.
Smith, George.— Fifty Years of Foreign Mifiaions; or tKe Foreign Missions of the
Free Church of Scotland in their Year of JubilCT, 1879-80. Fourteenlb edition,
Edinburgh, J, Maclaren & Son, 1880 : 8fo., pp. 79, maps and ill us t rations.
Wilson, [the late] John- — Indian Caste. Bombay, Times of India Office ; Edin-
bnr^ti and London, W. Blackwood & Sod», 1877 : 8vo., pp. 450, 228, and xxil
[The above six works were presented by Dr. George Smith,]
NEW MAPS.
(By J. Coles, Map Curator^ b,g,s.)
THE WORLD.
BiberOt BiegO- — The 2nd Borgiao Map by , Geogn^pher to His Majesty, In
iSeville, 1529, Reprodnced by W. Griggs in Photo-chromolithograpby from the
original in the Mu&enm of the "Propaganda" in Rome. W. Griggs, Peckbam,
S,E., 188G, Price II. Is.
This is a very well executed facsimile reproduction of the second Borgian
map by Diego Ribero, which through the kindness of His Holiness Pope
Leo XIIL was permitted to l>e sent from the Archives of the Propar^anda,
Rome, to the West India Section of the Colonial Exhibition, all previous
applications to the predecessors of the Snprtime Poiitifi^ for permission to copy
this map having been refused, though on ono occasion ih^ request was made at
the instance of the Unitetd StHtes Government. It is presumed that the
original of this map must liave been commenced about 1494, and finished 1529,
poisibly for Charles Y*, in order to settle some difficuities with the Portuguese,
relative to the vexed question of j^ossesaion of the newly discovered lands^ and
it forms part of the valuable collection left to the Sacred Congrej^ation of
Propaganda by Cardinal Bori^ia^ the last of the family, who died 1830. On
the upper margin thert^ is an iot^ription in Spanish, in which it is stated that
the map contains all that has hitherto been discovered of the world, made by
Diego Ribero, geographer to His Majesty, in SeviUe, 1529, and contiauee along
the lower margin as follows: — '* Which is divided into two parts according to
the agreement made by their Catholic Majesties of Spaiij and King John of
Portugal in Fontesilla, a.d. 1494." The line of divibion as made by Alex-
ander Vi, is shown on this map, with the addition of a flagstaiT on each side,
at the foot cf the map, one of which carries the Spanish, and the other the
Portuguese fla^. The names of the principal towns in each country are given,
I those in England being Bristo), York, and I^on ires. ^1 he Irish towns are
' written in Celtic; Jenisaleni is placed about 1500 miles distant from where it
really exists, and has three crosses to indicate Calvary. Russia is covered with
representations of men, trees, and beasts, as indeefi (after the manner of the
early cartographers) are all countries in those placf^s where the geography was
little known. The delineation of tlie oonsta of North and South America is
I interesting as showing how little of the west coast was known at the time the
map was produced^ Labrador is the farthest northern limit of America laid
down, and a note is made that it is a country found by the English, and of no
use. In one corner cf the mai> is a quadrant, witli directions for its use, and fn
the other an astrolabe. The work of reproduction has been beautifully
executed by Mr. Griggs, and tlie lettering is particularly sharp and clear.
Fetermann'a *Geographische Mitteilungen.' 3te^ Indexheft. Ubersicht dcr
Karten 1875-1884. 4 sheels. Justus Perthes, Gotha, 1886. {Dulau,)
These are a most valuable set of indices of all the maps published in
Petermann^fi * Geographische Mitteilungen * for ten years (1875-1884). The
Bystem is that which is us^ially adopted in index maps, with, the addition of the
I
NEW^MAPS. 63
use of different colours in the lines, by whicb the scales of the maps referred to
can be ascertained ; dotted lines indicating physical or statistical maps. The
number of maps given in this well-known geographical work is so great,
that the periodical publication of such indices as these has become almost a
Decessity, and will be duly appreciated by all who have to refer to the back
numbers of Petermann*s * Mitteilungen.'
EUROPE.
Central Enropa. — Earte von Central Europa zur Ubersicht der Eisenbahnen,
einschliesslich der projectirten Linien, der Gewasser u. hauptsachlichsten Strassen.
Kach amtlichen Quellen bearbeitet von W. Liebenow, Greheimer Rechn : Hath im
££l: Preuss: Ministerium der ofifentl. Arbeiten. Scale 1:1,250,000 or 17*2
geographical miles to an inch. Berlin, 1886. Verlag, Stich und Druck des
Berliner lithogr. Instituts. Price 10«. {G. Philip & Son.)
Deutschen Reiches. — Karte des — . Scale 1:100,000 or 1*3 geographical
miles to an inch. Herausgegeben von der Kartogr. Abtheilung der EOnigl.
Preuss. Landes-Aufnahme 1886. Sheets : 120, Anklam ; 452, Ereuzburg ; 586,
Pfalzburg; 602, Strassburg i. E. ; 604, Calw. Price 1«. 6fL each. (Dulau.)
Paris. — Nouveau Plan de , 1887. Scale 1420 feet to an inch. Lan^e,
Editeor G^ographe, Paris. Grav^ et imprim6 par Erhard. Price 25. (DtUau.)
ORDNANCE SURVEY MAPS.
Pablications iisiied during the month of November 1886.
l-lneh— General Mape : —
SooTuan> : 121 (OatUne), 73 (HIIIb), U. 9d. each.
8-inch— Comitj Map8>->
EaQLAVD AVD Walb8 : Brecknookshire : 26 N.E., SJ:., 32 N.E., S.E. ; it. each. Oambxldve-
Shire: S S.W., 23 S.W.. 36 N.W., S.W., 36 N.W.. 63 N.W., &W.. 8.E.. 67 S.E.; U. eSch.
Cardiganshire : 6 N.W.. lo M.W.. u S.E. ; u. each. Carmarthenahire : 26 X.E., S.W..
&E. ; l«. eadi. Devonshire : 30 N.W.. N.E., 89 N. W., 113 S.E., 119 N.W.. N.E., 8.W. ; u. each.
Dorsetshire : 7 S.W.. 8.E.. 8 N E., 19 N.E. ; u. each, aionoestershire : 29 S,E., 38 S.W.,
54 N.E., 66 N.E. S.E., 57 S.W., 68 S.W., 63 N.E., 64 S.W., 67 S.E, 68 N.E., 69 N.W., 72 N.E.
73 &E. ; u. each. Herefordshire : is S.B., 28 S.E.. 29 S.W., 3i N.E, S.E., 32 N.W., 34 S. W..
36 8.W., S.El; If. each. Leicestershire: 43 S.W., S.E.. 48 N.W, N.E., S.W.; u. each.
Lincolnshire : 7 N.E., 8 N.E.. 12 N.K., S.W., S.E., 28 N.W.. 37 8.W.. 63 8.W.. 77 N.W., 86
N.W.. N.E.. S.W., 96 N.W., 8.W. ; i«. each. Merionethshire : 16 N. W., 23 N.W., N.E ; u. oa. h.
Xonmonthshire : 14, 2«. 6cl.; 16,26; 2«. each. Montjromeryshire : 4 N.W., 13 N.W..
&W.; U. each. Norfolk: 2 S.W., 4 8.W., 21 8.W, 32 N.W., K.E., S.W.. 44 S.E. 51 N.E.
56 N.W.. N.E., 8.W., S.E., 69 N.W.. S.W., 81 N.W.. 91 S.W.; If. each. Nottinghamshire :
37 S.\V. ; If. Oxfordshire : 40 ; 2f . 6d. Somersetshire : I6 N.E., 41 S.E., 8I S.\\\ 8s N. w.
N.E.. S.W., 92 N.E. ; If. each. Suffolk : 31 N. W.. 89 N.E., S.E. ; If. each. Warwickshire •
12 S. W., 18 N.W, 8.W.. 19 S.E., 26 N.E., S.E., 26 N.W., 28 8. W. ; If. each. Wiltshire : 3 S.W.'
. 18 SX; If. each.
25-inoh— Ftfiah Mape:—
EvoLA» AKD Walbs: Cambridgeshire: XLIX. 2, 3f. ; LV. 14, 4f. Devonshire: XIV. a.
14 ; CXXXVIIL 8. 3f . each. Area Booka : Bradstone, Ooryton, Kelly, If. each ; Lifton, If. 6d. ;
StA»wford, If. ; Thruahelton, If. 6d. aioucestershire : LXV. 11. 3f.; LXV. 14, 4f, ; LXV. 16,
3f. Area Booka: Admingtun, Chipping Campden, Clopton, Cow Honeyboume, Doraington.
Hidooie Bartrim, IlmiDgton, Kemerton, Long Marston, Mickleton. Ouinton, Tewkesbury,
Twyning. Walton Cardiff; If. each. Herefordshire : VII. 10, XIV. 9, XX. 8, 3f. each.
Hnntinffdonshire : XX. 4, 3f. Leicestershire: XXIX. 10, 3f.; XXIX. i&. 4f . :
XUV. 10, 3f.; XUV. 13, XLV. 10, 4f.; XLVI. 10. 3f.; L. 8, 6f. 6d.; LL 6. LIII. 14,
3f. each. Area Books: Bottesford, If. Lincolnshire: IX. 7, 10, 14. 3f. each; IX. 16.
XVL 16, 4#. each; XVII. 2, 7. 8, 10, 11, 3f. each; XXVI. 9. 4f.; XXVL 10, 11, 13, 14.
3t. each; XXVI. 16. 4f.; XXVI. 16. XXXIV. 3. 3f. each; XXXIV. 4, 4f.; XXXI V. 6.
6, 3f. each; XXXIV. 8, 4f.; XXXFV. 11, 6f.; XXXIV. 16, 4f.; XXXIV. 16. 3f.; XXXV.
1, 8, 4, 6, 8, 12, 13, 16, 3f. each; XLII. 4, 16, 4f. each; XLIII. 14, XLIV. 1, 2, 3. 6, 6.
7, 8. 9. 10, 11, 12. 13, 14. 16, LI. 6, 3f. each; LI. 6, 4f.; LII. 1. 2. 3. 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13. 14.
16, 16. 3f. each; LX. 9. 4f.; LX. 11. 13. 3f. each; LX. 16. 4f.; LXL 1. 6. CXIV. 13. 14. CXXIIL 1
3f.each. Montgomeryshire : XIV. 11. XXI. 4. 7, 8, 16. XXII. 6, XXVIII. 14, XLU. 1. 9.
XUIL 3, 3f. ea^. Norfolk: XIU. 4. XVIII. 2. 3f. each; XIX. t. 4f.; XIX. 6, 11. 15, 16.
XXXIX. 9, XL. 11, 3f.; XL. 12. 4f. Area Books: Ashby with Oby. Billlngfonl. Bio Norton. Brea-
•iDgham, Borgh St. Margaret, Mautly. Postwick (detached). 8andringham, 8oath Lopbam, 8ioket»by
with HerriDgby. Swanton. Morley. Toft Monks (detached Noa. 1 and 2) ; TottenhiU, Upton with
flshley. West Newton. If. each; Northamptonshire: X. 10, 3f.; XV. s, et. Sd.; XVI. 6.
XXU. 14, 3f. atch ; XXIX. 13, 4f. Nottinghamshire : UI. 11, 4f. ; III. 12. I6. IV. 6. 6. 9. 3f.
each : IV. 10, 4#. ; IV. 11, 6f . ; IV. 14, 3f. ; IV. 16. VII. 4, 7, 16. 4f. each ; VHI. 14, 3f . ; X. 9, XI. 9.
4t. ; XIV. 3, XTL 13, 3f. each. Area Books : Averham, Bradmore, Epperstone, Kirlingtoo. Lodge oa
€4
KEW MAPS.
IbB WoWd. IJ. each; Biulford Saint Mary, kc, 2*. fiJ. ; Sonthwell, U.6<2. ; Slaojiton. Upton, If. ench,'
Shropshire: Area Books: Cortelfy. Frtrlow, Hopton ' Waf^r*. li. cawch. So zners«t shire :
LI. 4, LI. 1, 4f. e»ch ; LU. T, 6*. 6«i ; LIL 13» U,it. rich ; LIU. 11 IB, LXV., 10. 3f. c»ch. AroA
Boolu: BedniiuHter (part of), Uumett, Chelidfood, Clu^w Stoke, Churcbitl. Coogreabury, Corston^
Keyiuib«iD, KatlfteA, Prlatdii, Sultrord. Siimion r>rew, Staiiton Prior, Wbitcburch, Ijr. eAch; Wloford*
li.6d,e*cb. Sulfolk: LXL n. 34.; LXXIVIL 7. bt. Area Book^: Kaititironl, Boxled, Burgh
OuUe, Onrltoa Culv^Ule^ CbermRitou, Creeling St. ^vj, Fllxton, Fiim-tDJi.Guuiua, Harbeat, HontuD
fnetf Bote^dttJH), Keuiuti. Kirlcky, Little Smnham, Loweittoft, ^[Icicfkld, NettS^fltead. Oulton*
SonMsralum, 8om#non, ^Unioij. u. c&ch. Warwickshire : XXX. 7, fii.; XLV. 4, a, XLVL &,
3t. cacb. Are4 Boot: Tatufttnlh, 2*. WiltBhire I Vll. 11, 3*. ; VlL II. At. ; VII. VB» XXVJIJ.
3, XXIX. I, d, fi, XXXIV, 6, a*. e»cb; XaXIV. 13, 5». Worcestershire: XXIII. 7. fit;
XXVITL J6, 16, XXXllI 11. IB, XLII, 19. 4i. cacb ; XLIX. a, 6*. fid. Arva Book* : Bcugewortb.
Bentk-y, Pouoctfixil, Ctoplbom*'. Donriiiton, Hjunpton Lav«U, HoldfitHt, li.cAch; Inkberrow, 1*. 6<J.;
KIOKttjn, Nortb nnd Middle Uuleton, OITeohiinj, Sftiiit NtchoUa, Soutb Littleton, Stock md Bradley,
We»iwood P&rk, U, encb.
Town Plans — nJ-ft*t«caJe: —
LliGLAi^D ANi> Walks'; : Cambridge, XL. 14, H, 13, 1^ 1< IT, IS, 19. 30; XL. 15* e. tl, It. 21, 2f.
eftcb. D<?vl*eii. XXXIV. IS, fi, fl* 15, lio; XXXIV, 14,1.2.7,12. Ifl. 2f. emch, KctterinB. XXV.
10, fl. t, 11, 12, 1 6. IT, n, 21, 22. 23, 24 ; XXV. 14» 1, 3, 7, 8. 1 1, 12, 13, 17, It. ench Leicester, XXXL
15, 6, 17, 21. t&ch. PtU^rborougb, VI IL 7» l^Ji VIIL 11. H, la, U ; VilL 16. ». 13. 16,19,; VUL
16, e ; *J*. ewA, SbcpUwi M*J1H. XLL 8, 23; XLL 12t 3, fi. 7, 8, 12, 13, U, iT* 1«, 19. 30, 31, 22,
23, 24, 25; 2». MCli. WelU, XLL 1, 24 ; XLl. 6*3, 4, B. 8, % I'i. 13, 17 ; 2i. tttuh. West BroiDwkh,
LXVUL 6, 20» aa, 23, 24; LXVIlL 10. -2* ^, 7, 9, 13, 17, 24. 25 ; 2$. ftkch. Wolrerhamptoa, LXIL
6, 6. 9. 10 11, 12, 13, 14, J5, n, 18. 10. 30, 23, 24; LXIL IQ. 4. B, ^, t, 10, 14. IB. 19, 2U«
2S: LXIL 14> 6; 2t. eacb, YcctII, LXXXIIL 13^ 10, IB, 34; LXXXllL 14, 32; XC,2, I i aj.
eftCJi*
iSta^ford, Agmt.)
AFEICA.
AbeisinieB* — Utersiclatskarte der Reiseroulen des Knpitans A. Ceccliio und des
lugcnieurs G, Cliiarini iin Bt\dlichen ■, 1S7(> bis 1881. Scale 1 1 4,000,000
or 55* 5 geograpbicat milea to au inch. Peterniaon's * G^ograpkisclie MitteilungeD,'
1886, TafeL 15, Justus Perthes, Gotha. (Bidau,)
Aequatorialen Ost-Afrika.— VorliiuGge Skizxe von Dr. G, A, Fiecber's 3ter Reise
im ; 3. August 1885 hh 14 Juni 188G, Scale 1:4,000,000 or 55*5 gco-
graphical miles to au iach. reternjauQ^s * Geographificho Mitteilungen,' Jahrgaug
1886, Taf, 19. Justus Perthes, Gothft, 1886. (Duiau.)
Afrika. — Kartc von , mit besondere Beriicksicbt der deutscben Eolonion.
Scale 1 : lO.OOO^OfX) or 133 '3 geographical miles ,«to an inch. W, Liebenow.
Berlin, Berliner Lithographiscbe Institute 4 Blatt. Price 6s. (Dulau^)
'KQtkgQ' — l^io Nebenfiiiaae dea mittlern , Lulongo, Tacbuapi, Mobangi u. a.
Nach den Aufuahmen von Prcmierleut, Curt v, FraticQis nnd Reverend George
Grenfell im englischen Misaionsdampfer "Peace," 1884 und 1885, Scale
1 : 2,000,000 or 27 geographical miles to au inch. Pet«nuaun*s * Geograpbische
Mitteilungen,* Jabrgang 1886, Tafel 16. Justus Perthes, Gotha, {Duiau.)-
Madagascar.— A|Map of (M^aga8kim),by Captain S^Paafield Oliver, f.b,1,,
F.B,G.s,, late Royal Artillery, Scale 1 : 2,661,120 or 36*5 geographical miles
to an inch, London : Macmillan Sc Go«
This 18 a very nicely drawn amp, on which the present fitate of our geo-
graphical knowledge of Madagascar is well representt^d. The coast-line is taken
from the Admiralty charts, and the interior from the explorations and surveys
of the most recent and reliable travellers. The hill shading is based on that of
the map of the French War Department, compiled hy CoL Regnauld de Lannoy
de Biaay, and the noraeuchUure is from Graudidier's Geographic, with corrections
and accents hy Richardson and PickorsgilL Towns, tbrts, and villages are iodi-
cated by symbols,
OBt-AMka.^ — Originalkarte von Joachim Graf Pfeil's Reisen in . Okt. 1885
bia Fehr, 1886. Scale 1:1,750,000 or 23*9 geographical niiies to an inch.
Petermann'a * Geographische Mitteilungen,* Jahrgang 1886, Taf. 18. Justus
Perthes, Gotha. (Dulau,)
NEW MAPS. 65
AMERICA AND WEST INDIES.
Canada^ — M^ckinlay's Map of the Maritime Provinces of the Dominion of ,
ooiapiled from recent surveys. Scale 1 : 480,000 or 6*5 geographical miles to an
inch. 4 sheets. Puhlished hy 6. Philip & Son, London and LiverpooL
In this map^ which is carefully drawn, and has been brought up to date, all
county boundaries, townships, railways and Tx>ads are laid down, and all the
prindpal heights are given in feet. The work has been neatly executed, but it
is somewhat over coloured ; this is very apparent in the N.E. sheets many of
the names of places in King County, Prince Edward Island, being quite obscured,
and the smaller indentations on the coast quite hidden ; this is so perceptible
that it is to be hoped in any future editions of this map that may be published,,
a lighter shade of transparent colour may replace the dark and opaque shades
which go so (ar to mar its utility.
Puerto Bico. — Mapa Topogrdfico de la Isia de , Publicado por G. W. &
C. B. Colton y Comp^ Nueva York, 1886. Scale 1 : 250,000 or 3*4 geographi-
cal miles to an inch. Price 9s. (G, Philip & Son,)
Though this map gives a considerable amount of detail as regards the interior
of the island of Puerto Rico, it is greatly wanting in the manner in which the
physical features are illustrated ; the hill-shading, which has been done in chalk,
is so confused that it would be difiScult to trace the valleys, or even the direc-
tion of the mountain ranges. The limits of departments and roads are laid
down, and the comparative importance of the towns is indicated by symbols ; the
heights of the mountains are not given.
Vereinigten Staaten und yon Canada^ Landwirtschaftskarte dcr fur
das Zensusjahr 1880 bez. 1881. Von A. Supan. Scale 1 : 7,600,000 or 102*7
geographical miles to an inch. Nebenkarte, Verbreitung der Weizenkultur nach
Brewer. 1 : 30,000,000. Petermann's * Geographische Mitteilungen,'Eiganzung8-
heft Nr. 84, Tat 1. Justus Perthes, Gotha. (Dulau.)
Industriekarte der fiir das Zensusjahr 1880 bez. 1881. Von
A. Supan. Scale 1 : 7,600,000 or 102 • 7 geographical miles to an inch. Neben-
karten : Verbreitung der Tabakkultur im Jahre 1879 ; 1 : 30,000,000. Verbrei-
tung der Baumwollkultur nach Hilgard ; 1 : 11,000,000. Petermann's • Geo-
graphische Mitteilungen,' Erganzungsheft Nr. 84, Taf. 2. Justus Perthes,
Gotha. iDulau.)
AUSTRALIA.
Few South Wales.— Map of . Scale 1 : 2,100,000 or 29 geographical mile*
to an inch. E. Stanford, London, 1886. Price 3x.
(Queensland. — ^Map of . Scale 1 : 4,000,000 or 55-5 geographical miles to an
inch. E. Stanford, London, 1886. Price 3«.
South Australia.— Map of . Scale 1:4,000,000 or 65-6 geographical miles
to an inch. E. Stanford, London, 1886. Price 38.
T^ctoria.— Map of . Scale 1 : 2,100,000 or 29 geographical miles to an inch.
E. Stanford, London, 1886. Price 35.
CHARTS.
Admiralty. — Charts and Plans published by the Hydrographic Department,
Admiralty, in September and October 1886.
No. Inches.
298 m = 8-8 Newfoundland :— St. John's harbour, 1«. 6(/.
956 m = O'll West Indies: — Guadeloupe to Trinidad. 2». Grf.
924 m = 1-0 Bay of Bengal :— Tavoy river. 2«. 6c?.
No. I— Tak. 1887] F
€6 NEW MAPS.
No. Jnch(>s.
218 m = 4'0 Bay of Bengal, Mergui archipelago : — Mergui harbour.
28.
^55 m = 2*0 Borneo, north-west coast: — Loutnt point to Graya head,
including Ga3ra and Sapangar bays. Is. 6(/.
925 m = 1.5 Australia, north-coast :— Port Darwin. 2«. 6i.
926 / "^ ~ ^'0\ New Guinea, north-east coast: — ^Ward Hunt strait.
I m = 6*0/ Yasaiasa anchorage. Luther anchorage. ls,Qd.
604 Africa, west coast: — Plans added. Olongubuna point anchorage. Femand
Vaz entrance. Cape Lopez bay and entrance of Ogow^ river.
1807 Australia, Carpentaria gulf: — Plan added, Norman river entrance.
{Potter^ agent,)
CHARTS CANCELLED.
No.' Cancelled bj Xo.
^98 St. John's harbour New plan, St. John's harbour .. 298
603 Cape Lopez bay New plans on 604
835 Plan of Tavoy river on this sheet .. New plan, Tavoy river .. .. 924
218 Mergui harbour New plan, Mergui harbour .. .. 218
CHARTS THAT HAVE RECEIVED IMPORTANT CORRECTIONS.
No. 2593. North sea : — Ameland to Jade river. 2291. Norway, west coast : —
Bergen to Stav fiord. 121. Baltic sea: — Koster islands and approaches to
Stromstad. 2346. Baltic sea, Sweden: — ^Winga sound or Gotheborg Skargard.
2664, France, west coast: — D'Arcachon point to Coubre point. 178. Africa,
north coast: — Stora and Philippville anchorages, &c. 2480. North America, east
coast : — Block island to Great Egg harbour. 35oa. North America, east coast : —
Chesapeake bay. 456. Jamaica : — Port Royal and Kingston harbours. 2004. South
America, east coast : — Colonia roads. 561. South America, west coast : — Magellan
strait to gulf of Penas. 1229. Africa, west coast: — Santa Cruz to cape Bajador.
1877. Africa, west coast: — Gaboon river. 679. Madagascar: — Look^, Leven,
Andrava, and Vohemar bays. 920. Indian Ocean: — ^Diego Garcia. 453. Red
sea : — Islands in southern portion of Red sea. 835. Bay of Bengal :— Bentinck
sound. Port Owen. 2056. Eastern archipelago: — Sunda strait. 2111. Borneo,
west coast : — Nosong point to Ambong bay. 949. Eastern archipelago : — Ports in
Philippine islands. 930. Eastern archipelago :— Anchorages between Borneo and
New Guinea. 2875. Japan: — Setouchi or Inland sea. 2351. Australia, north-
• east coast :— Cape Tribulation to cape Flattery. 2421, South Pacific ocean : —
Tonga or Friendly islands. {Potter^ agent.)
North Atlantic Ocean. — Pilot Chart of the , October, November, December,
1886. Published at the Hydrographic Office, Navy Department, Washington, D.C.
J. R. Bartlett, Commander u.s.n., Hydrographer to the Bureau of Navigation.
ATLASES.
Australia. — The New Atlas of . The complete work containing over ono
hundred maps, and full descriptive geography of New South Wales, Victoria,
Queensland, South Australia and Western Australia, tosjether with numerous
illustrations and copious indices. Sydney, John Sands. Price 21, 2s, (this part).
{Stanford,)
This is the first part of an atlas of Australia, which, when complete, will con-
sist of one hundred large maps of the divisions, districts, and counties of the
Australian colonics. The present issue contains a large amount of letterpress,
in which a general description of the physical geography, geology, natural
history, means of communication, aborigines, &;c, of Australia is given ; this is
followed by a more detailed account of New South Wales which contains much
useful statistical information. With the exception of five maps, consisting of
citf tf aevmec v jcr^ wetM iok» rf txif f^irrtTMiK ^ Nev ScuxL Wjlic^ ^z.
'viiia. aie aoanoKas oE T^nt^^x n sbc*«x, sue w laif pKisCMS iSNCBff^nK ky
'^rvmF -vis. a Trmr'iin^ }^ -w^Ur^ii^ iz -^ index iiif aisiie rsL V jMoirsKxiAl.
Ibn-'Viirg xi IV CW«r I>roae. I>e. Geocr <5«Ei«ii. I>r. Jrirw Htim, IV. G,
Hirr'iKTK De. TT. Mi-iffw", Dt GaoEx: XfcniyBr, X3»d I>r. Karl t. Ssm^, berxEi^
oer Tree: L S«2aB* Laefercsr. libili: Xr, ^ W«ta«faffwc:c3>d 2qcs5r»«c^
Xr. 4S. ATOjt ssffiFvillter C»r2iiTn;|rsE. Xr. Sci, Ttali:tCi.*xg oer V^ad IL
GisLiL. JnstBf Ferttao, lSc*f>. Pxioe **. cad piru (^I>««a«.)
Mat. Xo. 25 sbcnre tie lycraziiiiT « tbe Xcnii S«k tbe Btliacw xie
EncSs^CiiioiBu, jou: -m B»t ci ^«t ; liew j« aiso io(Qn«a i»rt '^^^ ^
Xvi. ^ ptTB tbe isccbenss azui isShus xr Eziicf^ i:i the racQihs of IVoescKer
lie ^MOibntioQ oc tool, Ciias Xo. 1, ilroogjicict the '■•orii Jfljd «a k»5 laip*
ct a Twx TBduoBfl leak, is civeu fiawiisc tSe dirtribcti^ of Jtaimtl K* acKVCv>
izc w P^cdeaKc WaLaoe. Xc«. S5 » a wwtber *od wii>d aian. Xa 4:^ s^^«^
tie &snbcDOQ of trpcal j^acts. aac Xcv. ^ the cistrilctJoai of l&i^ CUss
Xo. 2. Aii the ina|» are beainifcilT diairn, the leiwiiiig i* cl«r, and li^'
srmbotf and oooocis veiU chowo.
dtlA Eqire.— The Qoeec's Jnlslee Atlas of the ^ with rVscrin^ve arsl
Tfittrnral Xoc« azxi Stanstical Tables. Br J. Fxaaom Williams r^G.sv
LcDdoc, Georre Ptilip & Sc«i, 1SS7. Price 1*^ «• K«aDd in doth S«.
TrJB ai^as, in aAiiikBi to the nafs, ooctuns thirty-ioar pages of cxrfau^oTx
Dous, i^ wLidi a liief sketch c«f the histoiy azxi geography of e«i Brit::^i
Cc»J:cy is given. A valiishie ftatistical tal4e of the form of GovemnKr.i^
pcj^QlanaosT areas, imports, exports. Ac, will be focod at the begixmins: and eno
of the boc^k. The maps are lairly drawn, and are not o^rrcrowxk^i w::h
Fmee. — ^Albcin de Statistiqne Gimj^iiqne de l^SS, Miaister\e des Travaux
PuKics. Paris, Imprimerie XatSoosle, ld8& (ZMoau)
This atlas cnntains statisticsl informatkn of gneat Tslne with it^ftid t.>
Hieans of oommnnicatioQ, and the tnnspon of merchandise by tail and m A:ex
in France. The maps are twccty-one in nmnber; the first eleven have nefcrenoe
I J railway enterprise in I$S3,*then ibUow seven maps giving statistics with
lecard to internal navigrtion, one iUnstrsting the pivpartions <rf the m«ctntile
Diinnc of the pdncip^ coontries in IdSS, and condndes with two diagrams
jiaving reference to the tramways and other means of comn^unicatK^n in Pans
from 1660 to 1884. llie system adopted in these maps is ample and ossily
tmderstood, in additi(»i to which ejich sheet contains explanatory xh>tes.
FritBChe, O. E. — Xoovo Atlante Geografico ad uao del!e Scoole Xormali o
Secocdarie disegoato Mto la direzione dell' Ingegnere Dottore Lnigi Hugnes da
G. E. Fritrsche. Fascicolo Secooda 8 carte. Torino: Dita G. B. Pftiavia c
Comp. 1887. (Dtt/au,)
This is the second issue of an atlas intended for the use of schools. After
some introductory remarks, there follow thirteen pages con tuning statistics
68 NEW MAPS.
witli reference to populations, areas, and physical geography. The maps aK»
eight in number, and are vreW calculated lor the purpose for which they were
published.
ASTBONOMICAL.
Moon. — Tho Handy Map of the . T. K. Mellor, f.r.a.s., del. Home, Thom-
thwaito, & Wood, Opticians, London. Price Ss.
Though there are many published maps of the moon, they are, for the mosfc
|)art, drawn on too iBTge a scale to be of much service to the student of seleno-
graphy, who may oiUy be possessed of a teloscoi^ of small aperture, and
who may desire, in the first place, rather to study tho moon aa a whole
than any particular portion of its surface. For the use of such begirmers
as these this map is well suited; it is handy in size, gives the names of
about 300 formations, in the same manner as mountains, lakes, ftc,
are named on terrestrial maps, and not as is frequently the case with
maps of tho moon, by numbers which require reference to an index. This
is a great advantage for tho student when it is remembered that his
work is almost always carried on by the light of a lantern, and often in winter
nights when tho fingers are cold and it is extremely inconvenient to torn
over the leaves of books of reference. In the matter of price this map has the
advantage of being cheaper than any other of the same class. It snows the
positions of the different objects of interest without professing to bo pictures of
them, and by its aid the student of selenography would soon become familiar
with the principal features of the moon*s surface, when he could carry his>
studies farther with the aid of more elaborate maps ; but until then, this map
will be quite sufficient for all his wants.
Planispliere. — Philips' Kevolving , showing the principal stars visible for every
hour in the year. G. Philip Se Son, London. Price 2«.
This planisphere is an improvement on those previously constructed, as it
revolves in a frame instead of a centre-pin, which in the older form soon worked
loose ; it is also smaller, more handy, and the constellations are clearly shown
in white on a dark ground, without pictures, which only tend to confusion. As
the aspect of the heavens, in tho latitude of London, with regard to the principal
fixed stars, can be exhibited with this planisphere for every hour in the year, il
should be useful to those who, having no previous knowledge, desire to study
astronomy.
PKOCEEDINGS
OF THE
ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
AND MONTHLY BECORD OF GEOGRAPHY.
The Dragon Lake ofPdmlr.
By Major-Greneral Sir Henby G. Bawlinson, k.o.b.
I DESIRE to draw attention to the excellent geographical work performed
by Mr. Ney Elias in his recent journey of 360 miles across the Pamir
Plateau, from the vicinity of Tengi-Hissar to ShignAn. When Major
Trotter, some years back, first brought this Central Pdmfr track to
the notice of geographers, in the Appendix to Sir D. Forsyth's Turki-
«tan Report (p. 457, Ronte XXVII.), I ventured to suggest to the
Society * that it represented the famous trade-route of antiquity, by
which the caravans of Home passed from Bactria along the ''Yallis
Oomedarum " to the famous Stone Tower on the border of the Chinese
territory ; and I farther undertook to show from a reference to various
liistorical notices, that it had been used as a military road io compara-
tively modem times; but I had not then sufficient evidence to prove
that Hwang-Tsang, the Chinese traveller of the seventh century, had
followed the same track, or that the famous Dragon Lake, the central
point of Jambu-dwipa, and the holiest spot in the whole Buddhist
cosmogony, which he had assigned to this region, was really to be
identified on the line between Eashgar and Shigndti. Mr. Ney Elias's
journey has thrown an unexpected light on this subject. We now find
that the Bang-Eul, which occurs at the seventh stage from the eastern
horder of the PAmfr Plateau, and which, with the exception of the great
Eara-Eul Lake, lying far away to the northward, is the largest expanse
of water throughout this mountain region, answers very closely to the
description of the Buddhist pilgrim. The Si-yu-ki says that the soil is
impregnated with salt, yet that the waters of the lake are sweet.
Mr. Ney Elias found that the banks of the lake were covered with
efflorescent and incrusted salts, while the water was considered to be
fresh. The colour is stated by both authorities to be a deep clear blue,
and the multitude of wild fowl which cover its surface and swarm
around its banks, attracted the special notice, both of the older and
♦ • Proceedings R.a.S.,' vol. vi. p. 502.
No. XL— Feb. 1887.] o
70
THE DEAGON LAKE OF PAMIK.
more moderti travellers. But tlie most curious proof of identity is to ho
foond in the Dragon mytli whicli attached to the lake. The Buddhists
of Central Asia, confounding this northern basin with the Miinasarowar
lake of Tibet, gave it the mystical name of Anava (or Anavatatta)
and supposed it to be presided over by a dragon, whence the title of
Nagahrada or EavanahrAda ; and ]^Ir. Nej Elias waa able to trace the
same belief among the Kirghiz of Raug-Kul at the present time. The
following extract from bis report will show, indeed, that the Dragon
King reigns SBpreme in PAmir to*day. Just aa he did in the time of
Hwang-Tsang, or perhaps 1000 years preTionsly.
'* In following the track down the south shore of the Eang-Knl a
rock or cliff is passed, standing about 100 yards from the water's edge,
and presenting a sheer front of about 100 feet in height towards the
lake. This is called the Cheragh-Tasb, or *' lamp rock," famous over
these regions for a light which always bums in a cave, near the top of
tho cliff, and is the object of a good deal of superstitious a wo on the
part of all Kirghiz, Shignis, and others who know the locality. To all
appearance a steady white iame burns within the cave, but even with a
powerful field-glass I could make out nothing more. My impression
was that there must be some phosphorescent suhstance far back in the
cave, bnt this, I was assured, was quite an erroneous view, tho real fact
being that vast treasures ai*e stored in it, which are guarded by a
dragon with a large diamond set in hia forehead, and it is this diamond
which shines hy day and night. The cliff did not appear difficult to
Bcale, but no native of these parts would ever venture to pry so closely
into the secret of the light as to attempt to enter the cave."
In the real Buddhist cosmogony the fonr rivers of Paradise are
supposed to jseuo from the Dragon Lake, but Hwang-Tsang merely
notices the two principal streams^ the Sita to the east and tho Po-taon
or Oxus to the west, and of these it is ip reality only the western outlet
which by an nnderground course of nine miles is said to communicate
with the Ak-Beitdl, and thus to fall into the !^Iurghabi, which joins the
Penj at Waraar, on the confines, as Hwang-Tsang says^ of Ta-mo-si-tie-ti,
or Darwaz, His derivation of the Sita or Kashgar river from an eastern
opening in the lake, as well as the enormous dimensions which he gives
to the lake (three days' jonmey from east to west, and five days* journey
from north to south), are due to tho usual proneness of Orientals to
exaggeration, bnt do not affect the general accuracy of his notice.
I may add that Mr. Ney Elias, in two positions, on the Little
Kara Knl and tho Yeshil Kul, discovered memorials of the passage
of the Chinese troops, who in 1759 pursued the fugitive Khojas as far
as the latter point in their flight to Badakhshan, and also found a
Persian inscription in Shign^n, said to be 600 years old, relating to a
local b<3undary. The improvements which his survey operations intro-
duce into tho map of Pamir, as laid down by recent Euasian topographers.
EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH-EASTERN NEW GUINEA. 71
are Important, but cannot be duly appreciated or discussed until the
Government of India finds it in conformity with the public interests to
publish Mr. Ney Elias's Report for general information.
Explorations in South-Easiern New Guinea.
By Eev. J. Chalmers.
(Bead at the Eyening Meeting, January 17tb, 1887.)
liap, p. 140.
To a Fellow of this Society, the Rev. W. G. Lawes, belongs the high
honour, I think, of being cidled the father of New Guinea travel. Before
him little had been done in penetrating into the interior of the island, and
no name has been more used by after travellers, as a password to known
and unknown tribes, than that of ** Misi Lao," the well-known missionary.
My first travel began with his infiuence and the frequent use of his
name, and through him my first tramp was made easy by the confidence
natives had in him. Under this influenoe they accompanied us as far as
white man had then got.
You will forgive me if I run hurriedly over my first travels before
giving a detailed account of a trip I made two years ago to the district
around Bald Head.
I first landed in New Guinea in 1877, but it was not until 1878 that
I began my travels in unknown regions. I am a missionary of the
London Missionary Society, and as such, in carrying out the wishes of
the Direotors, it fell to my lot to seek for healthy localities for the
settlement of native teachers. These native Christian teachers with
their wives were introduced from the South Sea Islands. They are the
true pioneers in New Guinea, and to them travellers of all kinds, scien-
tists, and explorers, as well as Christian missionaries, owe much. Permit
me to say that these South Sea Islands teachers must be credited
with the greater part of the success attending the peaceable proclama-
tion of the British Protectorate ; and the gallant commodore, whose high
honour it was to proclaim that protectorate, thoroughly recognised this
fact. Since then, the late Major-General Sir Peter Scratchley again
and again said to me how much he wished he could get such men and
women to assist him. They are, though Polynesians, true Britons to
the backbone, and swear by Queen Victoria and her officers ; and where-
ever they go the Queen is one of their great subjects of conversation, a
kind of fairy tale, with which to charm ; and often have I seen uncouth
savages listen with starting eyes and open mouth when " Victoria's "
greatness and goodness have been told.
In the beginning of 1878, my wife and I, on board the mission
steamer Ellengowan^ visited the whole coast from China Straits to Hall
a 2
EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH-EASTERN NEW GUINEA.
-<
Sound. Previoua to this trip very little had been known of all that
coast-line.
On referring to any old charts yon will find that between Heath
Island and the Leocadie, there is a part of the coast entirely unexplored.
This was visited by ns. It was a large bay, which we named *' Inverary
Bay," and sailing through it, landing at two places, we passed into a
Yery good harbour between the Leocadie and the mainland. Wo were
soon on friendly terms with the natives, who were very anxious we
ahould come and live with them. They gave the largest island of the
small group in perpetuity to the London Missionary Society, on con-
dition that a teacher was placed amongst them. There are no natives
living on the islands, and there are only small villages on the mainland
near by. On the island passed over to the Society, is a tree rent from
top to bottom by lightning, A poor woman t<x>k refuge under it in a
storm, and sat on the roots and was killed ; the only case I have known
in the tropics of any one killed by lightning. From there yon pass on
to Catamaran Bay, where there are numerous villages, and, with the ei-
oeption of Tano Sina, as fine a lot of natives as are to be found anywhere.
We entered this bay near to South Cape on Suau or Stacy Island,
where it opens into what it has been proposed to call **Port Erakine,''
after the gallant commodore who proclaimed the Protectorate.
Passing on from Port Erskine, round Kugged Head, is EossBay, and
beyond it is Farm Bay, at the head of which is Baxter Harbour,
Beyond Tree Point is Lawes Bay, followed by Fyfe Bay, just inside the
Boux Islands, where wo came near leaving ourselves for good.
From this wo went west to Meikle Bay, where I landed, and crossed
with an interesting crowd to a great lagoon, called Poroai ('* piggish
water'*), and then to Ellengowau Bay, Port Dudtield, Argyle Bay^
through what we wished named Port Scratchley, and in to Mullens
Harbour. We then tried to navigate Poroai, but found it piggish
indeed^ a very shallow lagoon, with a strong current running out* After
explorations showed that this current was caused by two largo streams
running in to the lagoon : the ** Herena " and the Jones ; one from the
east, the other from the west. At Dufaure Island, on travelling round
it, I was greatly interested in the view tlie natives took of me after
exchanging names with the pleasant littlo chief Meandi*
Wo found Orangerie Bay a sickly hole, and so kept on still west,
visiting those splendid harbours. Port Milport and Port Glasgow, dis-
covered by Ooldie, and then we anchored in Mayri Bay. The following
morning we visited Mailinkolo or Toulon Island,
Spending a few days in Amazon Bay we kept westward, and dia-
oovered Baxter Bay, and passing the bay of clouds and rain. Cloudy
Bay, discovered Sandbank Bay, Domara, and the river, and then on by
a splendid passage inside of the reef to " Cheshunt Bay," just beyond
Capo Eodney, and went up what we called " Reynolds Eiver." Tho
EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH.£AST£RN NEW GUINEA. 78
following day we went in and ont amongst the nnmerons islands called
"The Brethren," and on to McFarlane Harbour, where I saw the mouth
of what has since proved a good large stream, ascended by the late
Mr. Beswick, and named by him the " Clara." Here begins the great
Aroma district, which I afterwards travelled though with some danger.
Behind this are the districts of Animarupu and Quaipo. In the former
we found the people suffering from famine ; they were afraid to descend
to the plains because of the Aroma tribe, and on the hills a long drought
had killed off their food. They had much the appearance of Dahuni
natives, and were different from those of the Aroma district.
The Quaipo natives are of the Hood Bay tribe, that is Eerepunu,
Kalo, Eamali, Babaga, and Hula, and I think Palauai and Sara belong
to them also. Saroa is a very fine district behind Bound Head, with a
large population.
Along the coast ridges of Mount Astrolabe are several villages of
natives belonging to the inland tribe of Koiari. On their first meeting
with us they were somewhat troubled, but after a little, tobacco smoke
had a wonderful effect in assuring them we were friends.
To the west of Port Moresby I ascended the Edith river to beyond
Doura. Since then that tribe has been nearly decimated, and the few
lemaining seek shelter with Mr. Page, an excellent gentleman, who has
had a large quantity of cedar cut in the neighbourhood, and who, where-
ever he has been on New Ouinea, has shown himself a true Mend of the
natives. Along the banks of the Edith there is very fine country which
I believe the Protectorate Oovemment professes to have secured. I
have at Doura met with natives from the western spurs of Mount Owen
Stanley, and I once hoped through them to have ascended that moun-
tain before I came to England. I deeply regret that your Mr. Forbes,
for lack of money, has not been able to accomplish the ascent of Mount
Owen Stanley, and I do hope he will not return to England until he
has had the mountain under his feet. He is the only real explorer we
have had. He has already done splendid service by his carefully prepared
charts, and with his courageous wife, deserves the support and sympathy
of all societies interested in science. I feel sure our great Australian
colonies will assist him, and already Victoria has taken the initiative.
West of Doura is Eabadi, the district that supplies Port Moresby
with food during the months of scarcity. I ascended the Aroa river to
the villages, and, after visiting them all, proceeded inland towards the
Yule Bange, crossing various streams, which, when followed down, may
be found to be the affluents of the Coombe's river that falls into the bay,
just beyond Jokea. We passed through well wooded country, and, in
some parts, large sago plantations. The women wear very little clothing,
but the men are respectably covered. Like all inland natives, we found
them very fond of salt. They were greatly delighted when, on my
return to the coast, I left with them about 10 lbs. They are light-
74
EXPLORATIONS IK SOUTH-EASTEKK NEW GOINEA.
coloured, mncli like the Mekeo uativeB, who live at the back of HaU
Sound, Between Kabadi and Hall Sound is Kaara^ a difitiiot of nine
villageSi On my first appearance in one of their villages they were
having a dance, so that we wore in their midst before we were noticed,
I caused great constematioD, and the largo feather head-dreaaea wore
thrown aside, and speara and clubs quickly Bought* We laughed at
tliem, and just walked to a platform and sat down. We were soon
friends, and well acquainted with one another through the pipe.
The largo district of Mekeo Btretches from behind Hall Sound, and
away towards Mount Yule. The Lolo district lies around Hall Sound,
Maiva and Kivori lie between Hall Sound and Cape FosBession, and
from that cape to Orokolo is what is called the Elema diBtrict. Tbeso
have all been travelled through and friendly relations begun and con-
tinued for some years.
My first real inland trip was from Catamaran Bay to Discovery Bay,
in Milne Bay, when I was accompanied by Mr. Chester, bo well known
in connection with the Queensland annexation of the then unannexed
part of New Guinea. We were everywhere well received. The range
of mountains from the head of Milne Bay to China Straits, Cloudy
Mountain, and on to Argyle Bay, have no connection with the great
Owen Stjinley Kange, and I proposed Cidling tliis whole range th©
** Lome Range/*
At other times I have travelled inland from Port Moresby. In
starting from this point I took what isj I suppose, the longest tramp yet
mado in New Guinea. We went in by Munikahiia to Eikiri and Kupere^
and then turning east we travelled to Sogeri, thi'ough Moroka and
Favere, and on to the McGillivray range, following the Kemp-Welch
river, and cam© out at Kalo, in Hood Bay, Once an attempt was made
to take us, but it failed.
The country was very rough, and the travelling difficult, more so
from having our own swags to c&rry. Frequently, when travelling in-
land in new country, we have each had to carry our loads, and often from
Bunris© to sunset. Natives refused to assist us, saying they were afraid
to go to other places. The real motive for such refysal usually is the
desire to prevent the traveller going on to others, who might thus share
in the advantages of his barter goods. There is also the childish
pleasure of being able to tell others they had seen a white man who
is their friend and that he had given thorn prestints.
I have several times been inland since, and my last trip was with
Mr. Forbes, just before leaving New Guinea last May. We hoped to
get natives to assist us to make a dash for Mount Owen Stanley, All
was arranged, but when the mormog of the start broke, lo I our native
friends had vanished; they started during the night for their owti
villages, and we bad to return. Forbes had then to break up his camp
and return to the coast.
4
4
4
EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH-EASTERN NEW GUINEA, 76
I have frequently revisited many of the plaoes whose names I have
mentioned, and at not a few there are mission stations. Travelling
slowly from tribe to tribe, and making friends ahead, I believe to be the
best and safest plan for exploring New Guinea. The country will be
better known, and the natives become real friends. After the first
meeting with natives it does not do to be over familiar, as it is true in
New Guinea as well as elsewhere that " familiarity breeds contempt."
Kindness with firmness, and a good pinch of common sense will always
help a man along and open up his way before him.
I was long anxious to take a trip to the west in one of the trading
canoes from Port Moresby. Yearly the lakatois, as they are called,
leave port in. September or October, and go as far west as Elema, and
]S^amau, the district lying around Cape Blackwood and Bald Head.
They remain there until after the north-west monsoon sets well in, when
they return with their cargoes of sago.
At last an opportunity offered, and I took a passage in the Kevaubaday
a lakatoi, made of three very large dug-out canoes. These are strongly
lashed together, bulwarks ai*e built on, and at each end is a covered
place for the captains and mates to sleep. In the centre was a raised
place like a crate, and placing a plank on the top covered with a mat, I
made that my berth. The last few days before sailing were devoted by
the owners of the lakatois to sailing about the harbour and racing with
one another. There wera altogether six lakatois to leave port that
season. I selected the Kevauhada, because it was commanded by two
men I felt greatly interested in ; Yaaburi, the great story-teller, and
Aruako, the once robber chief of the Motu tribe.
Two days before the fleet sailed, the place was all bustle, and men,
women, and children were all alive, getting the pottery packed on board,
and selecting from the accumulated stores of barter several articles most
valuable for trading in the Elema district. When the morning had come
the lakatois all start across the bay. Tears flow freely, and the wailing
is loud and long, but becomes worse when the small canoes, mostly-
occupied by wives and sweethearts, leave at Kohu, about two miles from
port. Anchors — large, heavy stones — are taken on board, fiire wells are
looked and said, and we are away for the west. A few men who havo
played the part of pilots, leap into the sea at Idler's Bay and swim
ashore, and so with a good fair breeze we soon come into Caution
Bay. We had two large crab-toe shaped sails, and after seeing these
all right, tears were dried and hehanas, their sea songs, were begun with
the beating of gongs. Eemarking that we seemed to be going very
slowly, I was answered, " Bemember we have just left, and all the friends
are still holding on to us, wait until to-morrow and you will see." At
midnight we anchored between Cape Suckling and Hall Sound, and in
the early morning all were busy getting firewood and water on board.
Little cooking had been done up till now. The captains had their food
76
EXPLORATIOXS IN SODTH-EASTERX NEW GUINEA.
i
oooked in their own pots and on fires close to my quarters. Two men
were speciallj^ told off to attend on tliem» "VVlien off particular parta of the-
coast only certain kinds of food can be eaten, and not until we passed Yule
Island were yams produced. Crossing the €d trance to Hall Sound several
bunches of bananas were placed at each mast as an offering to the spirits
who might hinder progress; and standing forward was our robber chief,
shaking a bunch of cassowary feathers, and appealing for a good run<
Tho tide runs with considorablo streugth into Hail Sonnd^ hence th&
difficulty of keeping well out, and crossing safely. When we approached
the Yule Island side, the chief went aft with his feathers, and went
through the siime performance. Safely across the Soundj the siDgingt
which had been stoppedj began again, and a number set to preparing'
food, taking the bananas from the masts, and getting them ready for
<XK)king.
During the voyage, nothing was allowed to be thrown overboard.
Fires were soon blazing on the platform running round the lakatoi, jiist
outside the bulwarks, and general happine^^s prevailed. On the evening-
of the fifth day, we were off the mouth of the Annie river, and just after
sunset, crossed the bar in a terrific sea. When getting inside the-
breakers, we were boarded by a noisy crowd of natives, who threatened
to sink ns. In the dark the confusion was terrible, and it was not
remarkably pleasant to ha%*e big dark savages throwing their arms
round us to embrace. When it was reported I was on board, there was _
a terrific shout, and every one must come and make friends. I had with fl
me a native lad from China Straits, and he too became an object of in-
terest. On getting up to the village of Tailala, I landed and made
friends with a chief, who gladly gave me accommodation in his diibu or
temple. Many came to visit me from all parts during the few days I
stayed* I was very anxious to visit Namau, the cannibal district around
Bald Head, but could not move on until I had seen the two Orokolo
chiefs, as I wanted thera to assist me. I found Orokolo and Namau
were at enmity with ono another, and the Orokolo chiefs could only
accompany me part of the way-
When the two chiefs came in I gave them presents, which mj ho«t
thought was wrong, and he became terribly vexed and expressed him-
self in strong language, saying, no one had any business to come there
and get presents from his white man, I too became vexed and ex-
pressed myself in strong terms, saying, I must see my friends, and that
all must come and see me, and no one must interfere ; that I cx^uld do
what I liked with my own, and that seeing my host was angiy with my
fritnds I should return to the lakatoi and remain on hoard until I left
for tbe west, I went out on to the platform and called two of the crew,
who came, when I told them in a loud voice to pick up my tilings and
take them on boiird. Several had armed, and to a stranger to savages*
affairs would have looked serious. When the lads were picking up my
EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH-EASTERN NEW GUINEA. 77
iion box the old chief came, threw his arms round me, and tears rolling
down his cheeks, begged me to stay, that he was sorry, was my friend,
and I conld always have my friends to see me. I gave him a small
present, and he at once started, and got me some cooked sago. Many
times in my travels I have had to take the same decided action.
Arrangements were made with some natives who would all go as far
as Orokolo, but only two would risk going further. Aruako, the robber
chief, was to be my interpreter, and another Motuan, Aruadaera, to go
as my friend. The night before, in the dark, Johnnie and I got some
food and barter out so as to be ready for an early start in the morning.
I left the greater part of my things in charge of the old chief, who
proved faithful, for on our return everything was as we had left it.
Johnnie had an old musket with him, of which he was proud, and
for which I was thankful, as several times he supplied our larder
with fresh meat. We travelled along the beach to Orokolo, and
when some distance from the first village we saw a crowd of natives
approaching, and at their head my friend Apohe the chief. The
welcome was great, and we wore led up to a coco-nut plantation,
where we were regaled with young coco-nuts that all enjoyed. After
resting some time we continued our journey to Apohe's dubu, where we
had again to rest, and had a supply of cooked sago and coco-nuts brought
and laid before us. In the afternoon Apohe led us on to Mama, the
other chiefs dubu. The old fellow, dressed with a small coloured
bag I had given him on his head, and standing on the front platform of
his dubu, called on us to come and take possession, and on ascending
Apohe handed us over to him.
The next morning, after breakfast we started, and were accompanied
as far as the Alele, the mouth of a large river now seen for the first
time. Seven years ago I sailed along the coast and saw the openings
marked on the chart, and named them with the note that they were
reported to be the mouths of a very large river.
Our Orokolo friends returned, and natives from Maipua, one of the
numerous large villages around Bald Head, to whom I had sent word
a day or two ahead, came across in canoes and took us over. The
canoes were different from all I have seen anywhere else ; a large log-
of wood dug out, open at both ends, so that in a sea the water could
wash right through, carved, and no outrigger. At first, being without
an outrigger, and twenty-three restless excited natives on board, some
standing, some sitting on the gunwales, and a few on small pieces of
wood at the bottom, I felt dubious of our not being upset, but pulling
well up the stream, because of the strong current, it being ebb tide, we
safely crossed on to the other side. Beyond several small islands we
saw the main stream, which by-and-by we were to cross. On the
Ufamau side we were joined by a number of other canoes, and then
proceeded along various winding creeks, which form islands, along the
rs
EXPLORATIOXS K SOUTH-EASTERN NEW GUINJiA.
edges of which grows the nipa palm in graat abuudauce. In districts
where the sago does not grow, and whore the nipa can "be had, the
leaves are used for thatching* Passing through a large creek, wo camo
to a wide opening into what proved to be a large river, and which
1 named in honour of a friend the " Wickbam.'* We paddled up Bomo
diistance* and saw where the Aide branches oi!*, and I feci very hopefnl
that thiB discovery will he of use to us in future tmvels* I had not
gone prepared to a^scend the river any great distance, so for the present
contented niyaelf with what I had seen, and crossed over, descending
on the other side to a creek, along which wo went.
We were certainly a very merry company. My interpreter was in
bis glory with old friends and an abundant supply of areca-nut. My
friend was einging my praiees, and, altogether, I was certainly a
wonderful being to these savago cannibals. A heartier, jollier lot of
fellows I never want to bo amongst. They would paddle a little, then
they would stop to inspect my feet, having persuaded m© to take my
boots off, and all must come along and feel them. To exhibit my chest,
I must stand up, throw my shirt aside, all must feel, and then they all
gave one terrific shout. \V'hen wo iii'st went to the East End, I often
exhibited mj' chest, until an old chief, who became much attached
to Mrs. Chalmers, brought in to her a present of a man*s breast, saying
it was the best piece, and she must have it. After that I was a little
chary, and very seldom exhibited my chest. Now, although amongst a
thorough-going lot of cannibals, I felt we were such good friends that
I willingly did it.
It was now evident we were noaring a village from the number
of canoes al»ut, and at last I was asked to stand up in the
canoe, orders given to all others to sit down, and all other canoes
ordered out of the way. My new-made friend, the chief, Tpaivaitani,
sat near me, and when we entered the village, called out raj name, and
intimated I was his friend. Accustomed though I had been for years to
native towns and villages, this was certainly quite a new experience.
Everywhere people standing on the bank of the creek, all noisy, but not
a weapon to be seen. Large and av ell-built houses, with great figures in
front painted on native cloth. Streets formed by laying logs of trees
along the swamp in front of the houses ; everywhere small creeks in-
tersecting the town, over which bridges of wotxl were built ; and, as we
paddled along, crowds ran on to meet us at my friend's wharf.
Never before had I seen a town or village built in a swamp that at every
high tide was covei-ed. Everybody appeared well, hearty, and really
happy, I landed on a tolerably well-built wharf, and walked along a
kind of bridge to a very large platform in frout of Ipaivaitani's dubu. He
himself led me by the hand, women and children remaiuing behind,
men and youths preceding and following, until we came to the dubu
itself, where I was met by a number of old men, who waved their
i
EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH-EASTERN NEW GUINEA. 79
hands and bade me welcome. Inside and on each side of the long
beaatifnl aisle, were seated yonng men, legs crossed and arms folded,
not speaking a word, whilst I was led down the aisle by the
chief, followed by the old men, mitil we came to near the end, where
we stayed a few minutes, and I was then told to return, on doing
which, all the seated ones rose, followed me out, and general conversation
went on. That I was presented to the gods I have no doubt, and that I
was received in a friendly spirit was just as sure. The temple, for a native
building, was really good. In front was the large platform, and imme-
diately under the great high peak in front was a large verandah, on
which the men sat, sheltered from the sun and rain. Eising from the
verandah were three large posts, supporting what I have called the
peak, about 80 feet high. Standing just inside these posts, I looked
down an aisle nearly 200 feet in length. All down either side was hang
with what looked like splendid silk cui-tains, and these were made from
the young frond of the sago palm split up when quite new. The flooring
of the aisle, two feet broad, appeared to be a dark-stained highly polished
wood, and carved with figures of men, crocodiles, and cassowaries ; this
was made from the skin of the sago palm, and received its high polish
from the blood of victims dragged along to the end where the most
sacred place was, and the constant tread of numerous feet. Inside, the
whole plaoe was divided into compartments, in each of which were fires,
where the owners spent much time in eating and sleeping. In a large
open space near to the sacred place were pins to hang skulls on. These
during our visit were down, being cleaned and dressed ; and, having a
compartment dose by, I had a good opportunity of seeing them — in fact,
some being too new, I found a difficulty in getting through my light
dinner prepared by Johnnie. The skulls were all carved^ and done
over with many colours. A feast would soon bo on, and the heaps of
skulls would disappear, because all would find their places on the
skullery pins. That head-gear once belonged to inland natives, who
were killed, brought into the dubu, presented to the gods, then cooked
and eaten.
The length of the temple was, as I have said nearly 200 feet. The
floor was quite level, but the roof tapered from the high peak until at
the farther end it was not more than nine feet high. At that end
there was an enclosure which no natives went near, and I was anxious
to know what was inside. I was told not to go near, as it was very
sacred, and death would be the fate of any who attempted to enter,
except those whose duty it was. My interpreter and my friend would not
come near, and I begged the chief to allow me to enter. He kept some
distance off, and begged me to remain outside. My interpreter, seeing
my great anxiety to enter, told them I was a queer fellow, went every-
where, saw everything, and no harm came to me, and perhaps it would
be so now. I was allowed on that to enter, but no one would accompany
80
EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH-EASTERN NEW GUINEA.
me» When my eyes became accustomed to tlie darkness I saw six wicker-
made gods with the mouth of a frog, enormously large and open, the body
of a dugong, iBeastiring about nine feet in length and seven feet high.
Altogether they were hideous looking things. I put my hand into the
mouth of one, and was somewhat startled when out flew dozens of
email bai^, which disturbed those in the other images, and soon the
whole place was full. Outside they were in great consternation and
begged me to retreat, as I would certainly die. I told them I was all
right, and when I had seen a little more I should return to them. The
following morning J again entered with on© of the sorcerers whose duty
it was to attend therein. My interpreter was just outside, coming
nearer than the day before, and the old man who accompanied mo told
me they, the images, were very sacred, and called Kanibu. Before
going to fight they were consulted, and also in sickness, death, or
trouble. Bo<lie8 of the slain, pigs, armsheUs, and other Taluables were
presented to them. Bodies of the slain were dragged down the long
aisle, and placed just outside, near to the partition, where they w^ere left
for some time, then dragged to the outside and disposed of. The idols
were greatly feared, and no one even spoke disrespectfully of them.
The peak or cap resting on the long posts over the verandah at the
entrance was thickly studded with arrows. When the tribe have made
a successful raid on their inland enemies, each warrior on his return to
the dubu shoots an arrow into the cap in honour of Kaniba.
There were several other dubns in the place, larger and smaller than
the one I have described.
My interpreter and friend spent the evening and on until I retired
to re«t about midnight, telling what they heard at Port Moresby, and
what they conld remember of the teaching. I spread my blanket on
the platform^ and with my few clothes and boots for a pillow I was
soon asleep. The morning sun shining straight upon me, roused me, and
I was astonished to hear the robber chief still holding forth but very
hoarse. All night through he was telling them all he oonld remember
and answering questions. Polygamy is very prevalent, and many of
their customs are, to say the least, very peculiar.
The natives live chiefly on sago, and have only very small planta-
tions. In the creek were rafts of sago palms ready for sago preparation,
and along the banks of all the creeks were women beating and squeezJDg
the pith.
Wishing to visit the whole district, I was decidedly, though good-
humouredly, given to understand I must not. They wanted the great
honour of first reporting my visit, and then, when I returned to see
them again, I shonld be taken everywhere as their friend.
My return was the occasion of a kind of holiday. Men, women, and
children accompanied us in their canoes. Having tried tu interest them
the night before by singing a song, they got me to sing again, to the
EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH-EASTERN NEW GUIKEA.— DISCUSSION.
81
great delight and amus©moDt of alL It is au aocompliahment I became
4iware of possessing only after my arrival in New Guinea. Often have
I seen hundreds of tiavages wild %vith delight when " Auld Lang Syne**
was snng, and the enthusiasm passed describable bounds when the
joining of hands took place, and then all would seek to do the same,
and imitate our singing with shouting,
I parted from these cannibal children of nature, hoping to return,
ind I still hopo that soon after my arrival in New Guinea I shall be
able to revisit Namau, and from there do something more to open
tip that great and interefiting island*
OapUin W, B, Kendelbson, iun., said that his knowledge of New Guinea was very
afiglii iodeed, compared with that poABessed by Mr. Chalmers. He was Gommaader
of the Nelson and wai ia New Guinea for about ^vq weeks during the proclamation
of the Protectorate; he had brought to the meeting a collection of weapons at the re-
questor the Secretary. The only two occasions ou which he went inland were when
be went a day*s cruise from Port Moresby, when ho attempted to ascend the Cloudy
MoQQtainB from Cape South. He succeeded in getting op the moimtaiu, about 3000
feet above the level of the sea, and there spent the night. Oe had a very liard climb
A?w steep precipices, aod when he reached that elevation he could see nothing, because
ef the thick bosh. People who had never been to New Guinea had not the faintest
COQoeptioQ of the state in which the natives existed. They lived in what were
known aa village communities, not having yet reached the tribal state. Along the
QQUt he believed there were ahout eight distinct languages, and these included a
nry large number of dialects, but there was no chief who had supreme power, or, so
far as he waa aware, any power beyond two or three villages. For the purposes of
Cnde, the inhabitants of diflerent districts paid visits along the coasts, hut their
fights and their quarrels were between themselves, one village having a feud with
mother speaking the same language. A person who wanted to travel there could
iu>t ^t portera to take him from one village to another^ because the natives were
tfrild to go on account of these feuds. Their religion was a form of ancestor wor-
skip; they appUed to the witch, or sorcerer, or spiritist, about everything that went
wmng. They had not tho slightest knowledge of any natural cause, and every ill
(hat happened to them was put down as being caused by the spirit of some dec-eosed
snoestor, or probably by the spirit of some one in a neighhouring village. If a death
happened, naturally, accidentally, or in 6ght, it was a case of blood for blood ; and
when an illness t<Jok place, the sorcerer said, *" It is somebody, or tho spirit of some-
body, in a neighbouring village who has caused this," and then the friends were bound
to have blood for blood. It did not matter much whether it was a man, a woman, or
a child, as long as they snooeeded in killing some one belonging to the village with
which for the time being they had a feud. With regard to the weapons, from
i^nrt Moresby as far east as Elema, they used bows and arrows, samples of which
be exhihited to the meeting* but to the westward of Port Moresby there was a strong
dividing line beyond which only si>ears and clubs were used. All their spears
were made of coco-nut wood, with no metal at all. Like all savages, if they could
take an adversary unawares they would do so, and if they could surprise a vilhige
or a canoe they would put the occupants to death ; but if they actually met in
fi^t, they threw their spears at one another from a distance, challenging one
mother to personal combat. On one of the iCillcrton Islands two neighbouring
▼Ulages had had a 6ght the day previously to his visit. Three men had been
Uy wounded with flesh wounds from spoarsy and they came to tl^ie native
82
EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH-EASTERK NEW G[riNEA.-^DISCUSSION.
teacher's house to bo dressed. These spears inflict very serious wounds, tearing
the flesh. A stoce club simply consisted of a ronnd wooden handle with a sharp
areolar piece of Btone at (he end* The wooden clubs would stun a man, but
the stone onea would cut his head open. The natives lived in a stete of abject
fear, life being abeolutely uncertato. They never knew when a mid might be
made tipon them* When they went to their barter or t4> cultivate their plantations,
tliey did not know but what an attack might be maile Ufion them. One of their
weapons was a man-catcher. If when two tribes were fighting one put the other to
flight, the pursuers lassoed their enemies with tlie man -catcher over the head, and ft
sharp point behind piked them in the back of the neck. He was told that that weapon
was also ti&ed in the Malay Archipelago, The people had no knowledge of metal,
and were living in a stone age. The large canoes were hollowed out with stone
aOzcs. The natives were beginning to know the value of iron now, hut they had
no means of working iL For ornaments, about Port Moresby and to the
westward, they wore large bones through their noses, from six to nine inches long.
A more valuable form was a piece cut out from a large shell and ground down.
Their ears hung down and had tremendous gaahea in them in which they put
rough tortoise-shell earrings. Wives were purchased with din^^o and wallaby teeth
and shell necklaces, these latter being ground down with great labour, and armlets
cut out from shells. Throughout the whole length of the coast the natives chewed
the betel-nut, using with it lime. Every native carried with him a gourd with lime
made from burnt sheila, and when they were chewing the betel-nut they put their
wooden knives into the gourd and then sucked them. They grew tobacco of their
own, though they much preferred European tobacco ; their manner of smoking was
very peculiar, they sat down in a circle, a small cigarette was wrapped up in a leaf
and put in what might be called their pipe— a piece of bamboo open at one end ; on©
man then applied hia mouth to the end and drew as hard as be could till he had
filled the tube with smoke ; then he removed the cigarette and handed the pipe to
the senior man present, who, putting his mouth to the small hole, drew out as much
smoke as be could at one inspiration, the process being repeated for No. 2 and so on.
They made armlets and necklaces from different kinds of teeth. Their shields were
of primitive form, made of wood ornamented with matting and feathers. He greatly
regretted that New Guinea and the Western Pacific had not been studied by some
student of primitive culture, for yery soon the present customs of the people would
disappear. He believed an immense amount of information might be obtained by
those who were capable of tracing out primitive customs. To the west of Fort
Moresby the canoes were hollowed out from big trees. A large mat sail was used,
and they could only sail with wind free, but further to the east the form of the
canoe was different, the sides were built up of boards, which were fjecured to one
another with fibre, the holes made to pass the laehing through being caulked
with gum from a tree to prevent leakage. These canoes sailed very well on a wind,
but the natives were not what might he called skilful sailors^ even in the arrange-
ment of thefr own canoes. The houses were everywhere built on piles from six to
eight feet out of the ground, in some places very substantially. In Port Moresby and
district^ which was the centre of the Protectorate, the houses were built in the sea
and in lagoons, and were esactlj' similar to the lake dwellings of prehistoric times.
For eight months of the year the south-east trad© wind blew, and of course the
mountains on the south-eastern peninsula condensed the vapour winch it brought,
so that part of the country was exceedingly wet, while the western part was dry.
The iseason changed in October or No¥ember, and from the beginning of the year the
north-west monsoon blew in an opposite direction until April ; this was the wet
season in the west. On the whole, the eastern end of New Guinea was exceedingly
EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH-EASTERN NEW GUINEA.— DISCUSSION.
83
»
wtl Many people imagiDed New Guinea was a place adapted for ooloDtsatioii, but
tlKsewho thought so forgot the conditions. The climate was unhealtby, the popu-
litioD 9CAnty> the amount of knd used for cnltitation exceedingly small, anti
IIk satires were in a state unfitted for labour. They coutd not be depended ui)nn
fcr labotir, and in a country situated between the Equator and ICP south it was
impossible for Europeans to undertake outdoor labour ; thert!rore colonisation meant
the introduction of cooUes or of some race that could labour in the tropics, which
wrold inevitably lead to the extermination of the natives. It should also be born©
in misd that the amount of tropical products required for the civilised countries
of the world was very gmalT, the necessities of life came from temperate regions,
TC^ little besides spices and coffee came from cltmeu such as New Gninea. The
D*tiTes of New Guinea no more understood what contimioua labour meant than
bmr to fly; they were simply accustomed to live from day to day, to getting
jtifit tbe amonnt of food they wanted, building their houses and making tbeir
weapoDB and ornaments; generations must pass ^^efore they would have the slightest
biowledge of the relations between masters and servants as understood in civilised
OMtntrie!S. To soddenly change their condition from the primitive state in which
ifceyst prtssent exist would mean exterminrition for them. The London Miasiooarj^
Socjfty, through Mr. Lawes and Mr, Chalmers, have rendered New Guintsa accessible
to EoTOpemna. Their mode of operations is as follows i — they put Polynesian
tucben, who are superior to the Papuans by several degrees, into selected stations
tloDg the ooMt ; being bom Christians^ and being able to read and write, they very
•OCQ leafn the languages of the natives amongst whom they dwell. These native
taehtiB were left alone, a small cottage hewing bui!t for them, and as they were
wpcrior beings they soon acquired great power and influence among the natives, who
Wfflit to them in their troubles, and whose chiefs looked up to them. In his opinion
it if only by working on these Imes that improvement can take plBCe, that is, by
introducing people from the Western Pacific, who were akin to tlio&e in New
Goinea, who sympathised with them and understood their feelings, but did not
oind their childishness, and could gra<lually teach them to cultivate the land and to
iwk. He was sure that any other form of colonisation would work mischiefs Of
cottne one other thing should be done, namely, to conFolidate the jx)wer of the most
Jiromising chiefs : if the Wv^h. CommiBsiotJcr pelectcd the most jxiwerful chief in
My district,, and was able to consolidate his power, it must tend to the advantage of
tbe natives generally. There was plenty of room for eiploration. Nothing was
really known of the interior; there might be valuable land and minemls, when
rewttTces of that sort were found it would be tim«* etiODgh to think of permitting and
controlling colonisation by whites. There was one case in which a chieftaineas
wielded power, but she was the only woman in New Guinea known to do so*
Mr. G. R. AsKWtTH said he went with Sir Peter Scratchley on his lato expedl-
to New Guinea, and he could speak to the tnith of the descriptions given by
aimers and Captain FIender?on, Mr, Chalmers was a most wonderful man in
t to exploration in South-eastern New Guinea, He had seen far more there than
lay other white man, and had travelled over country as different as the barren land
Tooud Port Moresby is fmm the tropical region of Dufaure Island, He had mighty
mfiaence with the natives whether as arbitrator, or friend, or rellgloiis teacher^ or
toroerer^ or as all of these, and it might be that he had taught some to believe in one
Supreme Being who«e influence was for good, rather than in the host of devils and
ghosts of the dead by whom they were wont to believe that they were oppressed.
In New Guinea, as in other savage countries, pioneers had a very difficult task
before ihenu One difficulty was the want of chiefs, and another the lack of carriage.
'i\e want of chiefs made it almost imix>ssible for a traveller to go far from a friendly
J viddet!
H^ to
i
EXPLORATIONS m SOUTH-EASTERN NEW GtTINEA.=.DlSCL'SSION.
village, because no chief had suflident power to give convoy for defence, but
Sir Peter Scratchley hoped that in time be might be able to raise the importance
of the head-men. In Burnm the mtTno difficulty arose. The Buddhist priesU there,
to a certain extent, took llie place of the chiefs, but in New Guinea the sorcerers
had not ao much power as the priests in Bnrma« One way of spreading British in-
fluence in the bland would be to establkh Commissioners at various points along
the coast, especially if these CommiBsioners should have aome knowledge of medicine.
Fever, skin diseases, and leprosy opened up a vast field there, through which men
with some medical knowledge oouM gain influence amongst the natives. With
regard to the carriage of goods, of course^ a European could not carry ranch in such j
SL tropic-al climate, and in addition to that, the means of barter were extremely
reetricted. Tobacco was of the greatest imijortance. At Port Moresby the mission
house really lived by tobacco, but he would be afraid to say that a traveller could
cross New Guinea by means of tobaoco. At the mission house no service could be
secured without imyment in tobacco, which was really the current coin of the
country. The worst of it was that the demand for tobacco was small. The
natives were very soon satisfied, and then they would not do any more work till their
supply ran out. Mr, Forbes found at his camp that that was the chief difficulty, and
so he tried to use rice, a great quantity of which he had brought for his Malay ser-
vants. The natives liked it far better than their yamsj and would soon do anything
for rice.
The Rev. Dr. WrI'^ht said that New Guinea was first sighted by d*Abreu, but
the principal exploration there had taken place during the last ten years. From
what he had just heard, he believed there was ho|>e for the future. Thanks to the
London Missionary Society, there were men along the coast who now bad friendly
rektions with the people, and were able safely to pass in and out among them.
Four of the Gospels were now printed in the language of Port Moresby, m that
those interested in philology and comjmrative gmmmar could study the language.
There was a large mixture of Malay as well as Papuan in the language, and there
was evidently a Unguiatic relationship between all the islands of those seas. The
language of the little island of Saliai also had been reduced to a written form, and
one Gospel had been printed in the language of South Cape* From the languages, it
might be possible to find what the people themselves were, and what position they
occupied in the history of the world,
Mr. K. N. CusT said it was more than 1CK> years ago that Captain Cook dis*
covered the islands of the South Sea. Within a few years afterwards the London
Missionary Society was formed, and that society had led to most marvellous dis-
coveries in geography and philology. They started at Tahiti, spread on towards the
Loyalty Islafids in the direction of New Caledonia, and when the time came moved
forward to New Guinea, Mr. Chalmera belonged to that society. From island to
island their agents went, spreading civilisation and carrying the greatest blessings
that could be receiTed by the human race. All the great Continental scholars had
received with astonishment the communications which came from the South Seas,
Four languages had already been discovered by Mr. Lawes and Mr. Chalmers, and
many more were in process of being discovered. They and other men of the same
stamp had exposed themselves to i>eril and danger, carrying their lives in their
hands, and had contributed to Science in the most marvellous way.
Captain Weaeton (Hydrographer to the Admiralty) wished to give bis testi-
mony to the great utility of missionaries not only in New Guinea but in other t>arts
of the world. This had been brought home to him very practically in Ids position
as 8Ui»ervising the surveying ships of Her Majesty's Navy. Some forty years ago,
when Captain Owen Stanley made the first survey of South New Gumea in the
h
EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH-EASTERN NEW GUINEA.— DISCUSSION. 85
BoHUsnake^ he met with very great difiBculties everywhere on account of the hoe-
tili^ of the natives. There were now, however, two surveying vessels there, and
their laboors had been very much lightened by the missionaries. He was glad to
have this opportunity of thanking Mr. Chalmers for the great assistance he had
been to those vessels. He had just received a letter from the commander of one of
the ships, who owed his life, indirectly, to the missionaries. The latter said : " I had
a narrow escape myself last month, if native report is true. I had taken a station
near the coast-line about two months before, and on passing it I landed for a few
minntes to get a few more angles. I had the son of the native teacher of Dinner
Island with me as interpreter, and took one blue-jacket, and — I suppose for the only
time I ever landed in New Guinea — I omitted to take our pistols from the boat. It
appears that the natives, supposing I should revisit the spot I had marked, had
decided to tomahawk us, and had laid their plans. These matters are invariably
talked over first, and seldom is a murder committed without consultation. They
then discovered I had the native boy with me, whose father has considerable influ-
ence everywhere, and while they were discussing this new phase we had landed and
cleared off again before they had done their talking. This information came to
Mr. Forbes, and he warned me."
Dr. DoTLB Geakyille, in response to a request to address the meeting, said
he was quite unprepared to say anything at present, but he hoped to have an
opportunity on sL future occasion of laying before the Society an account of his
jonmeys in New Guinea, supplemented by some sketches.
Sir Rawson Rawson said that of course climate was an exceedingly important
matter when colonisation had to be considered. About three years ago he had
occasion to make inquiry into the climate of New Guinea, and he found that the
whole of the south coast was scarcely habitable by Europeans, that there was only
one pcnnt, Port Moresby, at which any Europeans were living, and that even Port
Moresby itself was very unhealthy. He wished to ask Mr. Chalmers what infor-
mation he could give with regard to the climate on the coast, and as to any
improvement as the interior was penetrated? Did he think the coast would
become more healthy by means of clearing and drainage? Captain Henderson
considered that the natives were so indisposed to labour that nothing could be
made out of them, but Mr. Chalmers at the Colonial Institute said they were
prepared to labour for the purpose of barter, and that they carried the fruits of
their labour to the western part of the island in order to purchase sago and other
commodities. If this were so, all that was needed was that they should be
educated to work, and then they might become an able and useful class of labourers-
in their own interest.
Mr. Ejebbt Nichols said that he visited New Guinea some ten years ago, and
had always been of opinion that there were two races there, — the Papuan extending
along the western coast, the southern portion of the Gulf of Papua, and the Malayan
in the eastern portion of the island, while further still the Papuans were found in
the New Hebrides, and as far south as New Caledonia. He wished to ask Mr. Chal-
mers whether he had been able to trace the distribution of races to any considerable
extent
Rev. J. Chalmubs in reply said that the climate of New Guinea, not only on the
coast, but inland, was very unhealthy. For some time teachers resided close to the
Owen Stanley range, and their experience was that it was just as unhealthy as the
coast A few years ago the Melbourne Argus expedition failed because all the party
got sick, and several of them had to be carried back to the coast by the natives. With
reference to labour, he would say that the New Guineans would not work as
between master and servant, but if they were left to plant and raise what they could
No. n.— Feb. 1887.] h
86
THE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF JAPAN,
barter foT themselves they would do it. They would work for three days and then
aifc atill for a day : on the fifth day they might come to work again for two daya,
hut then there would ho another day set apart for trade. He looked upon them as
a hard-working lot of natives, doing a great deal more plant ing than the islanders of
the South Pacific ; but if a capitalist went there and roquir^ them to work from
dtx to BIX, and from Monday bo Saturi5ay, he would not get them to do it^ He did
not see the necessity of taking the laud from the natives when they could be en-
couraged to plant that which would be of use to Europeans. Why should Java and
the islands in the eastern seas alone supply our spice^ when it could be grown by
the natives of New Guinea? He believed that the western part of the island
down to Cape Possession was inbabited by the Papuans. From Cape Posaeaaion to
Hall Sound there was a meeting of races, words of both the Malay and Papuan
language being spoken. The Malays were, ho believed, fighting their way from
the far west on the north coast, and had come down to Huon Gulf. He coosidGred
that the Papuans were in possession of the country from Goodenough Bay to Huon
Gulf. He had been three times on that coaat^ and had paid many visits to the shore,
and the natives there were pure Papuans, while from Goodenough Bay round to Cape
Piissesaion they were of Malay origin.
Captain H^kdersdn said he considered the natives were in such a state that they
did not understand labour in the European sense ; tbey worked hard for themselves,
but it was spasmodic work.
The Chairman offered to Mr, ChalmerB the thanks of the Society for Ms ex-
tremely interesting paper, which had given rise to so inatmctive a diecussion. He
was quite sure the members would join him in congratulating themselves on haviDg
had present with them a gentleman whose reputation waa so celebrated among
geographers as one of the forerunners of civilisation in a very distant part of the
earth. Thoy must all hoi>e that he would return to the scene of his past labours,
and that the Society would receive the advantage of those labours, and that the
people among whom he worked would have the very great benefit of his a8siBta.nce
Jn the paths of civilisation*
T}te Physical Geografky of Japan^ with EemarJcs on the Peuph,
By Dr. Edmukd Naomann.
Hap, p. 140.
In 1875 I entered into an agreement with the Japanese Government,
accepting the position of professor of geology at the School of Mines at
Tokio. On my arrival in Japan I fonnd that the school had been broken
up, and in consequence a new engagement was signed, entrusting me
with a professorship of geology, mineralogy, and mining at the TJni-
versity of Tokio. In 1878 and 1879 I submitted to the Japanese
Government a memoir on the adrisability of a geological survey being
undertaken, with special reference to the economical requirements of
the country* My proposals were accepted, and I was ©ntruated with the
general direction and control of the survey, a yearly sum of abont 10,OOOZ.
heing allotted for its cost ; and after the necessary preparations had been
made, field work was commenced in September 1880* At the outset the
staff consisted of four foreigners and twenty-two Japanese asBiBtants.
WITH REMARKS ON THE PEOPLE. 87
The nnmber of foreigners was however soon reduced, and I was
obliged to take the entire burden of conducting the topographical and
the geological suryeys upon myself. Owing also to deficiencies in the
staff, the lack of funds, and the generally unsettled state of the country,
the surveys could not be carried out in so perfect a fashion as I
<x>uld have wished. It may be mentioned that aU the assistants and
•draughtsmen had to be trained to their work, before the surveys could be
carried on systematicaUy. A further obtacle of some magnitude was
encountered when the question of publication arose. Many experiments
had to be made before the method which has been employed for the pro-
duction of the printed maps could be perfected. That most of the diffi-
culties mentioned have been happily overcome is a circumstance, in a
great measure, due to the intelligence and zeal of my Japanese co-
operators.
The Japanese islands are no other than the most elevated portions of
an enormous chain of mountains, rising from the ocean bed, the deepest
that has ever yet been fathomed. An idea of the considerable differences
of level existing in this region may be formed by conceiving that two
mountains like Fujinoyama, whose summit, the highest in the Japanese
archipelago, attains an altitude of 12,425 feet, could be placed one upon
the other in the deepest part of the Tuscarora basin without projecting
above the surface of the sea. In fact, the summit of Figinoyama rises
no less than 39,853 feet above the deepest part of the neighbouring
ocean. In no part of the world does an area of such comparatively
narrow extent as that comprising the Fujisan and the Tuscarora basin
show such enormous differences of level. Considering the Japanese
chain as one continuous mass, the lowest parts of which are submerged,
this great wave of the earth's surface bears the same relation to the
Pacific basin as the Himalaya mass does to the Indian peninsula. The
dimensions of these two colossal earth-waves are almost equaL The
figures given might lead to the erroneous supposition that a very steep
slope exists on the Pacific side. On the contrary, the ocean-bed on that
side rises very gradually to the coast-line, making an angle of not more
than about 3*^, whilst on the opposite side'the inclination is very slight
indeed. The general character of the Japanese earth-wave establishes
its close relation to the Asiatic continent. In fact, it is nothing else
than the advanced frontier of Asia, and not a chain of volcanic ejections
accumulated over a fissure in the ocean-bed, as certain famous geographers
of past periods conjectured.
Examining the chain more closely, we find that innumerable
excavations have been made in its surface by erosion ; that it shows a
peculiarly furrowed aspect ; and that certain extensive depressions and
cuttings are in accordance with the laws of orographic configuration.
To understand its formation we are under the necessity of uncovering
the surface, and of consulting the geological structure of the chain. It
11 2
88
THE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF JAfAN,
woTild have be<in impossible for any'slcillecl topographer to have arrivedT
at such an uixdorBtanding of the orography aa to ©atahlieh the natural
divisions of the mountain maes as a whole, even after many years* more
Biirvej'ing than I have devoted to the subject, without Btndying it»
geology. So my explanations wonhl be quite unintelligible if IJ
neglected to point out the fundamental laws of geological structure, ^
According to recent investigations, the formation of mountain chains
is due to the continnal contraction of the earth through secular cooling.
Strata deposited by the great water-basins in a horizontal position are-
pushed and raised into folds. In connection with the folding action due
to lateral pressure, the strata often split into a number of sections, and
through the fissures igneous niaases rising from greater depths find their
way. Observation proves the Japnneee chain to consist of a long series
of foldsj and these folds run as a rule in the same direction iis the island
chain itself In some places, however, they are diverted from their nor-
mal course. The greatest regidarity of structure is met with in the
southern part of the chain, where three diflerently shaped and differently
constructed zones, indicated by Shikokn, the Inland Sea, and Chugoku,
can be diBtingiiished. Here the folds are strictly parallel to the general
direction of the chain* But if we fidlow them in an eastward direction, wo
find that they all curve upwards, and this the more intensely the nearer
we get to a large transversal depression, a kind of cleft or fisHUre in
which a number of volcanoes have sprung up. Fujinoyama, for instance,
is situated in this cross fissxii*6. On the other side of the cleft the folds
describe a still more decidedly abnormal curvature. They imitate the
shape of a hook, with its inner side turned towards the Japan Sea,
Northward from the cleft as far as the latitude of Sado and Bondai, the
folds run for the most part transversely to the island chain. Undoubtedly
the disturbance in the regular folding is more marked in Northern
than in Southern Japan. Still further northward, however, they resume
a normal direction. All the phenomena of geological structure hitherto
observed tend to show that a pushing or thrusting movement acting
from the side of tho Sea of Japan has caused the folds to rise and to
advance in the direction of the Pacific Ocean. This advance could not
however, take place regularly everywhere. The horijBontal forward
movement was checked at the point where at present the chain is fonnd
to be split by an enormouB fissure. According to my view, this great
and most interesting disturbance was caused by the close appro*ich of
another largo chain of mountains stretching from the Tokio Bay down
to the Benin Islands, and styled the Shichito chain. This opinion is
principally supported by the fact of the two chains being connected just
where the disturbance occurs.
The irregularity just deRcribed is not tho only one met with. It
must be remarked that the folds, besides Ixsing disturbed bv the great
transversal cleft, are not continuous throughout, even where a regular
WITH KEUARKS ON THE PEOl'LE.
89
I
N
course is obeerved* Tkbi in oa account of the oliain baving been tora
into a number of sections, wkich have then atlvauood unequally. The
island of Yesso is furthest advanced, and the nurthern portion of the
main island more so than the section lying between the cleft and the
latitude of Sendai. I have indicated thtt approximate lines of dislocation
in the accompanying map. Another dLslocatlon of this kind, though of
smaller extent, ia shown by the disconnection between the crystal schists
of the Kii peninsula and the band of the same system in Mikawa.
In addition to the foregoing general remarks on the geological
structure of the Japane&e ittlands, attention may bo called to the exist-
ence of extensive longitudinal hssurc^ through which igneous masses
have issued during past ages. Volcanoes and volcanic action play a
rery humble part in the Idstory of this development. If we compare,
as has been dune by old geographers, the Japanese chain and the other
chains girding Eaatem Asia to garlands of flowers, then the volcanoes
might l>e likened to small pearls tbi^caded among these garlands* In the
mountains of Japan fossils of the remotest periods are met with» and no
doubt can prevail but that those homontal movements described above
commenced at a very early date, and have continued with varying foroo
down to our own day. One of the most interesting of the fosBil-yieldiug
rockfi is that which I have oalled ** Kadiolarian slate," a rock filled with
^autifuUy shaped microscopicid skeletons of animal life of a low order.
These slates are of great geological age and of marked interest, in-
asmuch ae tlieir composition proves them to be of a formation corre-
Bponding to that of the mud from the deepest part of the ocean bed.
We learn from these slates that the Japanese chain, or a large pai't of
it, was submerged deep beneath the ocean surface during some portion
of the PalsBOKoic em. The Eadiolarian slate is a deep-sea sediment,
and perhaps the oldest sediment of this kind known.
I wish to draw attention to the magnetic map of the Japanese
islands. It will be perceived that there is a most remarkable corre-
spondence between the lines of equal declination (the Trogones) and the
leading lines of geological structui-e abuvc described. In general the
magnetic lines exhibit very striking and quite unexpected irregularities,
and these irregularities are found to be in most intimate connection
with the abnormal curvatures of the folds. The serious discussion
which followed the reading of a paper of mine before the Seismological
fiociety of Japan in 1882 showed how far these irregularities were un-
expected. For my own part, I was convinced from the very beginning
of the geological survey, at a time when the magnetic data were still
scanty, that there must bo a connection between those phenomena which
AT© caused by the magnetic force of our globe and the internal condition
of the earth's crust or of the earth itself. With this point in view I
started the magnetic investigations. In a comparatively short time the
general magnetic survey, comprising no leas than two hundred complete
90
THE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF JAPAN,
observatioDB at a liie numljer of stations, was aocompliBhed Lj Mr.
Sekin^j, one of my former topographical assistants. The reaiilts aro
oxtremely sat i.s factory*. It will bo observed that the magnetic lines aro
influenced in their course by the great transveraal cleft just in tlie 8ame
manner as the folds. Wo might even say that the deviations of tho
linet^ of equal declination and the fold lines coincide to a certain extent.
Where ono of the great lines of horizontal dislocation, separating two
unequally advanced eections of the Japanese Archipelago^ crosses the
chain, the trogones describe bends and sinuo^iities of a moat pecnltar
character. These rosnlte open an entirely new field of research, and I
hope that they may be an inducement to a continuation of similar
investigations, bo that some light may be thrown npon those still very
obscure pages relating to the causes of magnetism and to the internal
condition of the earth.
Among the two hundred declination values obtained by Mr, Sekino^
the highest was obtained for a plate near 3ilorioka, in Northern Japan,
where the declination amounted to over 7^, which is considerably more
than in any other part of the country. This proves the existence of
some local abnormity, a fact stipported by resulta of another kind which
I will mention. At the beginning of the present century a Japanese
astronomer named Ino Tadayoshi undertook by order of the Government
a survey of the whole country, in course of which the coast and a few of
the more important roads were laid down pretty accurately. This work
is of the highest historical and flciontific iiitorc^t^ and would well deserve
to bo dealt with in a si)eoial paper. Ino Tadayoshi had heard and read
in foreign books of the variation of the comjias-^. Nevertheless he denied
its existence. He even went so far as to attribute the declination ob-
served by Europeans to an error in the oompaeses used by them, and to
maintain that the fact of his own compass-needles constantly pointing
due north was owing to the superiority of his instruments^ which he
always constructed himself. Now we know that the variation is at
present increasing in Japan about 4' per annum, and that it has l^een
increasing for a considerablo time past. This furnishes an explanation
of Ino*B obstinacy. Because the zero meridian, the meridian of no
declination, passed through Japan in his day, he was led into the belief
that anything like variation of the compass did not exist, and that
Europeans were seriously mistaken in agsuming such a phenomenon.
Ino neglected the declination, which really existed except along tha fl
line of the zero meridian, and as ho has gi%'en the direction of a great ™
many peaks bylines and figures in his map we are enabled to determine
the change of variation for the last eighty-five years. X have made an
attempt to establish the syBtem of trogones for Ino's time, following the
method indicated, and the results of this investigation are laid down in
the above-mentioned paper. The most interesting result is that I
arrived at the discovery of a very remarkable magnetio disturbance >
WITH REliARES ON THE PEOPLK 91
which mtust have existed at the date when Ino made his observations,
near a volcanic mountain in the neighbourhood of Morioka, in the same
region where Mr. Sekino found the highest declination value amongst his
two hundred observations. Perhaps this discovery of a great magnetic
irregularity existing not less than eighty years back may be worthy of
attention, as it was established a long time before anything could be
known concerning the exceptionally large declination of the present
time.
On one of my maps I have laid down the boundaries of the area over
which the great earthquake of 1854 extended. This boundary line
again closely approximates to the lines of geological structure. The
curve describes two great waves rising from a common base that lies
in Southern Japan and strikes with the folds of Southern Jax)an. From
a more minute inspection of this earthquake curve it can be seen that
the oscillations were finally arrested by the great transversal deft. It
is nearly eight years ago that I determined the course of this line at a
time when my knowledge of the geology of Japan was very limited
indeed, and when I had not the slightest idea that almost every detail
of the curve could be accounted for by laws of internal structure, as
established by later investigations.
The study of geology is just as indispensable to the orographer as
the study of anatomy is to the sculptor. No clever artist would think of
representing the beauties of the human form as those of a hollow figure.
The physical features of Japan present a fine example for the verifica-
tion of the intimate and mutual dependence of those sciences whose object
is our globe. After having made ourselves acquainted v. ith the general
laws of geological structure we shall be better enabled to understand
the language of the external features of that part of the surface we are
at present dealing with. I have already stated that the Japanese chain
is composed of three bands or zones. The outer zone situated on the side
of the open ocean consists of mountain land presenting the appearance
of an originally flat mass modified by erosion. The upper parts of the
mountainB are flat and but slightly rounded, the numerous and sinuous
valley cuttings steep-sided and narrow. Very distinctly marked appears
the inner boundary of this outer zone, corresponding to the inner border
of a narrow continuous belt of crystalline schists and indicated by very
regularly developed "longitudinal" valleys. This boundary plainly
shows tiie course of the leading lines of the folds already spoken of.
The greatest height attained by it on the island of Shikoku is about
7726 feet. Near the great transversal cleft, for which I have proposed
the name " Fossa Magna," it gradually thins, and in oonsequence of
being strongly compressed, its summits in this region reach heights
of about 10,000 feet. It may be recommendable to adopt the name
Akaishi Sphenoid for this colossal triangular mass of mountains. To
the right of the Fossa Magna lies the mountain land of Quanto, still
M
THE PHYSICAL GEOGEIAPHT OF JAPAN,
furtier north the Abiikuma mountain-land, and again lioyond tliis the
Kitakami mountain-land, all of them belonging to the outer zone*
The median zoo© is a depresaion in Southern Japan filled by the Inland
Sea. In Northern Japan we meet with a median range of high pealis
of abont 6000 feet, set with many volcanoes* The median zono is the
zon© of highest volcanic activity as far as Northern Japan and Kiushiu
are concerned. A longitudinal fissure is indicated by the enormous
masees of erupted rock accumulated in tlus zone. Concerning the inner
zone, its most characteristic features are shown in the occurrence of
isolated volcanoes rising out of circular basins formed by sudden de-
pressions. Such basins are, commencing from the south and continuing
northward, the Sanpei basin, the Daisen basin, the Gasaan basin, the
Chokai basin, tbe Moriyoshi basin, and the Twaki basin. The median
zone of Southern Japan passes by transition into the inner zone. Cross-
ing from the Inland Sea to the Sea of Japan we first pass through hilly
countiy which gradually rises until the broken range of elevations
running along the coast is reached. This range, though fairly high,
appears hut low in comparison with tho mountains of the outer zone.
It will be of tlio utmost satisfaction to me if my endeavours to explain
by tho foregoing brief remarks the general physical conformation of
Japan have proved suGSciently clear and intelligible.
My travels and surveys extended over the whole country, with tho
exception of Yesso and the smaller islands. The total length of the
routes travelled over and shown in the sketch-map amounts to about
COOO miles, of which 3000 miles were actually surveyed. The surveys
were plotted on the spot, a plan I consider to offer such considerable
advantages that I recommend it to any traveller who establishes his
routes by constant measurements. Sume field sketches I have made
show the method of working, and will possibly prove of interest to
surveying travellers. One of tliese sketches shows a route 21 miles in
length leading right across the mountains, and laid down in one day
during the hottest period of the year. I am convinced that this is about
the maximum amoimt of this kind of work achiovable. On an average,
I have accomplished about I2i miles per day. From 1881 to 1885 my
travels and survejs wore undertaken with the object of establishing in
the shortest possible time the general laws of configuration and of
structure governing the mountains of Japan. These reconnaissance
surveys, in which I was assisted by a few topographers and geologists,
have only just been accomplished, and their results are laid down in the
eztenaive series of maps which I have brought homo.
The character of the country is mountainous, and the variety of
mountain forms, the luxuriance of vegetation, the abundance of fiowers
in spring and the beauties of foliage in autumn, the clearness of the
atmosphercj which seems to bring distant objects nearer to the eye, and
the numerous streams of rushing water make it one of the most charming
I
WITH REMARKS ON THE PEOPLE. 93
^ts in the world. The island mountain-chain is interspersed with a
large number of Tolcanic cones, many of which have been the scone of
destructive eruptions within historical times. At present hardlj any of
them are really active, and an eruption is an exceptional event. Nine
years ago, however, I witnessed a magnificent eruption on the island of
Oshima, situated at the entrance to the Gulf of Tokio. A column of fire,
caused by masses of molten lava which were thrown into the air to a
height of sometimes 1000 feet, issued from a small cone built up on the
bottom of an enormous circular crater. We were so close to this igneous
fountain, that when taking our lunch at the edge of the large crater, we
felt as warm as if sitting near a good fire. On the return journey to
Tokio, our little steamer, which, as a rule, only made the trip between
Yokohama and Yokosuka, and was certainly not built to face the open
sea, encountered a typhoon, and it certainly appeared as if after having
escaped the fire we were to be swallowed up by the waters. The storm
had at the same time been raging with such violence at Tokio, that our
friends there were astonished at our unexpected return.
By far the greater number of the loftiest summits are volcanoes, and
very fine views are obtained from these. I cannot imagine any subject
worthier of the brush of an artist, than sunrise as seen from the top of
Fujinoyama. When during the summer months night flies away and
morning approaches, crowds of pilgrims in white dresses and large flat
hats collect under the waving flags of the huts on the summit and wait
upon the wild and rugged lava plains for the first rays of the sun. They
are all strong and well made men, whose faces tell stories of severe hard-
ahip. The play of colour in the sky is of indescribable loveliness, whilst
down below, the mountains seem to rise slowly from one vast sea of
shadows. Suddenly, like lightning, the sunlight floods the highest crags
of lava on the summit of Fujinoyama, the stone huts, and the crowds of
humbly praying pilgrims.
Still more fascinating than the view from the top of Fujinoyama is
that from Chokaisan, a volcano on the north-western coast of the main
island. From the bottom of a huge circular crater rises an obelisk-
shaped mass of lava, much broken and furrowed, and surrounded at its
base by vast snow-fields. It is extremely steep, and looks as if formed
of enormous blocks artificially heaped up by giant hands. The highest
part consists of a broad plate of lava, which is somewhat difficult to
dimb, and which looks as if it would fieill at any moment. Standing at
the edge of this plate one enjoys an entirely unbroken view all around.
At sunrise the triangular shadow of the volcano is seen thrown in sharp
outline upon the surface of the neighbouring sea. As the sun rises the
salient angle of this shadow becomes gradually more obtuse, and the
shadow itself diminishes and finally disappears. I have seen here the
play of colours in still greater perfection than at Fujinoyama. Like a
gay greeting to the mom, the long reverberating notes of the trumpet
94 TEt PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF JAPAII, ^^M
ehells blown bj the pilgrims who have arrived at the edge of tho crateTjJ
re-ecbo amoDgst tho steep and rugged precipices. Beyond a few hot- '
apringB at the foot of the Diouiitain» there are no traces of volcanic action.
Bat the priestfl t^all ns that centuries ago two enormous fiery snakes
iaaued from the mountain side and crept into the sea, where they at last
disappeared amidst steam and foam.
One of the largest and wildest mountain masses in Japan, having
many peaks of nearly 10,000 feet in height, extends in the vicinity of
the western ooast of tb© main island where the latter baa its greatest
breadth* It is commonly styled the Shin an o Hida range. The
Tateyama is the most interesting of all the giants in this range. Of quite
a different shape from that of its southern brethren Noriknra, On take,
&c., it also conaifits of different material. The sharp wedge-shaped ridge
called Tateyama, adorned with white bands of snow between green
patches, is separated from a range to the eastward by an extremely
Bteep and deep ravine. This ravine a little ftirther do^vn is roofed over
by lava, so that the stream flowing through it appears to empty itself
into the bowels of the earth. On the western side are extensive slopes
on which the largest and most interesting solfatara in the whole of
Japan is situated* The Japanese call it Figoku which means Hell, and
indeed no place in the whole world could remind one more of tho
infernal regions. From hundreds of openings steam is emitted with
a shrill hissing noise, and sulphurous vapours belch forth in largo
volumes. At the edge of the solfatara I found some small mud
volcanoes in regular action. On some of the openings grew graceful
flower-like cups of a beautiful yellow colour formed of minute and
glittering crystals of sulphur. These cups w^ei'e in one case about six
feet in height, I tried to sccuro one of these lifeless yet delicate
flowers^ with the help of some long rods, but found it imposaiblo on
acconnt of the unbearable beat. Tatejmma is one of those famous
mountains^ which like Fujinoyama, Chokaisan, and others, are yearly
visited by crowds of pilgrims. The rocky wedge-shaped back of the
ridge is reached by scaling the southern flank. Having ascended the
ridge the traveller finds himself on a kind of small platform and enjoys
a siiperb view extending over the deeply-serrated, rugged and jagged
Shinano Hida range to the south. Like a huge needle, the Yarigadake
projects from the confused mass of ridges. To the east, a fascinating
picture unveils itself like a vision. There the smoking Asamayama
rises as if swimming on silver clouds, surrounded by faint blue mngee
of hills. To the far west tho surface of the Japanese Sea reflects the
sunlight. At sunrise a Buddhist priest, clad in rich garments, takes his
stand on a small platform further to tbo middle of tho ridge, where a
minature temple is erected, and celebmtes scrv^ice. It is a picture full
of life and colour when hundreds of pilgrims move along tho narrow
path winding between deep precipices, to reach the temple high above
them, where the priest ia praying.
WITH REMARKS ON THE PEOPLE. 96
Nearly ten years ago I ascended Tateyama in company with large
crowdB of pilgrims. Amongst them was an old man of seventy, with
weary eyes and feeble limbs, who was accompanied by a tall handsome
lad of abont fifteen, bis grandson. The old man looked as if he were on
the point of death. Four coolies had to work hard to help him up the
steep and rocky flank of the ridge, and I would never have believed that
a mountain like Tateyama oould have been ascended by a man in his
condition if I had not seen it with my own eyes. What energy must
be requisite to accomplish a pilgrimage under such circumstances. His
young companion troubled himself but little about his sick grandfather.
He bounded from block to block, gazed at the woods and flowers and
appeared to have eyes for anything but the poor old man at his side.
I shall never forget the contrast presented by the two pilgrims, the
contrast between youth and i^, between life and death.
When I arrived at the sea-shore after my Tateyama journey, on
which some of my students accompanied me, I was well received at the
house of a Japanese officer, a relative of one of my companions. Here,
at Namerikawa, I took a few days' rest, and then engaged a junk for
Niigata, which lies about 120 miles further north. The captain of the
junk assured me that it would not take more than three days to get to
Niigata. We started at night, because, as the captain said, we should
not catch the breeze from the mountains during the day. When I went
on board I had occasion to witness a very strange spectacle. Far out
in the open sea I saw a huge fire. Bed and yellow flames rose from
the surface of the water. At intervals the sound of voices travelled
shorewards, and as I stood, too intent on what I was witnessing to ask
for an explanation, the riddle appeared to develop itself into a perfect
miracle. Shrieks, yells, and fragments of wild songs were distinguish- .
able ; the flames drew nearer and nearer, and I could make out amongst
them human figures which rose from the waves for a moment or so, but
only to dive back into the waters again. It was like a dance of devils.
Bat the flames gradually lost their brightness, and finally died away
with the songs and cries of the demons until nothing gleamed through
the darkness of the night, save the lights of the lanterns on shore and
the stars in the sky, and nothing was heard but the slow movements of
the waves and the exclamations of the boatmen. Then a huge mass
propelled by numerous fins, like a swimming myriapod, approached the
shore. When this miraculous sea-monster touched land I went to view
it, and found it to be a large raft moved by a crowd of swimming boys.
These were the dancing devils, who had taken the raft, heaped up with
straw, wood, and like combustibles, out to sea, in order to amuse them-
selves in a kind of sham fight by the firelight. Those who succeeded
in mounting into the raft strove to prevent the rest from getting into
it, but were at the same time assailed by their comrades, who sought to
pull them back into the water.
96
THE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF JAPAN,
Tlie journey on board the junk was the most nxiueralile une I ever
maiie in my life. I isnYied the JapaneBe, who couH sleep in any postare
whatsoever, M'hilbt I tried in vain to arrange my aching hones in a
horizontal position on the very uneven surface of the rice- bags with
whieh the junk was laden. During the day the mountains, basking in
the bi ight summer sunBhioe, did not lend any breeze to swell our sails,
and so wq cam|>ed on the sandy shore, which wa^i at any rata clean,
and therefore preferable to the dirty lii?h©r-huta, but where we w^ere
nearly roasted by the sun. After wo had travelled in this way for a
couple of days, I decided to leave the junk, and was fortunate enough
to disGover a very nice temple, with a hospitable pricat. Here I settled
down, and as it waa evening, soon fell asleep. But I had scarcely slept
an hour, when my Japanese servant aroused me, and announced a
splendid wind. Hoping to got to Niigata by the aid of the newly-
risen breeze, I hurried hack to the shore and got on board again after
some serious difficulties, m the junk ivas rolling heavily. Now* came
the worst part of the journey. When morning broke the wand fell, to
my satisfaotion, though certainly not to that of the sailors. I had had
anough of it. We bad spent four days in getting half-way to Niigata,
and I continued the journey overland in a sedan chair, on horsebaok,
and lastly by boat, arriving at my destination at two o'clock in the
mornings with a stomach as empty as a vacuum. I was, however,
fortunate enough to be taken for the German ambas^sador, in consetiuenco
of the similarity of the Japanese words Ilushi and Riyoshi, one of which
means ambassador and the other professor. An ambassador may expect
to be supplied wnth sardines, ham, steak, and anything else, even at
two o'clock in the morning ; a professor, as a rule, n«jt.
Some 30 miles north of Niigata the Miyomotegawa flows into the
Sea of Japan, This is one of the most romantic rivers in the whole
country. Following its course we soon enter a naiTOW gorge, with sides
so steep that it is for some distance quite impossible to keep close to the
water. Further up we saw the river with its confluents descending from
an enormous mass of mountiiin, amidst which two peaks, Asashi and
Ide, appeared especially prominent. The Miyomotegawa abounds in fish,
especially in the lower part of its course. The Japanese have a multitude
of methods of catchiug fish, upon which it is scarcely necessary to enter,
as most of them have been shown in the Fisheries Exhibition. I will,
nevertheless, refer to one plan which I have l>cen told is also in use in
Scotland. A small platform is erected at the river side afc a point where
the water rushes over foaming rapids. Here a man takes his stand with
a harpoon* Thi'ce or four others entering the water, occupy themselves
in trying to drive the fish towards the platform. I have seen young
lads working up a rapid where anybody not accustomed to this kind of
sport would have been swept away by the tremendous force of tlie
current. These fellows, however, were moving through the foaming
WITH REMARKS ON THE PEOPLE. 97
waters like the fish themselves. The man on the platform throws his
harpoon as soon as a fish comes near enough, and very seldom misses
one. Should a fish succeed in passing the platform, a man a little higher
up stream prevents it from escaping.* Another interesting method of
fishing, chiefly practised in Southern Japan, is by means of cormorants.
This is pursued as a sport by many people of the higher classes. In
some places it is practised at night by the aid of fires.
Let us return to the wild mountain mass near Niigata, which, as I
kave mentioned, is crowned by the peaks Asashi and Ido. The upper
valleys of these mountains are extremely steep. Ascending a ridge
means rough and difficult climbing, and moving along it is commonly
just as dangerous. So deep and steep-sided are they that blocks from the
weathered granite surface, when set in motion, roll down to the bottom
with tremendous velocity. Many parts of this mountain region are not
accessible in summer-time. But in the early months of the year, when
snow fills the chasms and the surface is hardened all over by the constant
change of temperature from thawing during the day to freezing during
the night, it is possible to cross them without difficulty. Then the
farmers leave their smoky huts and set out bear hunting, leading a
rough life amidst the snowy mountains. They sleep in small pits sunk
into the snow by means of fires kindled upon it and fed by boughs from
the tops of the trees projecting above the surface. The masses of snow
which accumulate in the mountainous regions and even on the west
coast of Northern Japan are enormous. There are villages which
frequently experience a fall of over 20 feet of snow. In an ordinary
farmhouse you will find, at any hour of the day, the whole family gathered
round the open fire, which is also used for cooking purposes. The smoke
of this fire is supposed to escape through a hole in the roof right above
it, but it sometimes fills the whole house and causes much pain to the
eyes. I have had to spend many a night in such a shelter when the
winter storm was raging without. As I was obliged to carry on my
surveys as late in the year as possible I was surpiised several times
by the first snows when trying to get across a mountain pass. In such
cases retreat was a necessity. Once I had started earlier than my
Japanese companions and being quite alone, lost my way. It took me
a long time to discover a cluster of houses, but even then it was difficult
to obtain access to them. People had already settled down for the
winter and the outer gates were fastened up all round. During the
winter people in the mountains, of course, do very little work. I know
a village in the north of the main island, called Eiriake, where the
inhabitants after their breakfast go to the baths, which are fed by hot
springs, and remain in them for the whole of the day enjoying the heat.
The extent of the Japanese islands in a north and south direction,
and the mountainous character of the country, are the causes that any
* I saw this method of fishlDg in the Mijakogawa valley, Northern Japan.
98
THE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF JAPAN,
variety uf climate can he £ound within their limitB. Climate changes
with tlie level as well as with the latitude. On the CK>ean side of
Southern Japan the palm treOj the orange tree, and the camphor tree
flourish. Some small ialauds near this coast may be found covered with
flowers at the beginning of February, when the lake of Suwa in the
interior of the main island is frozen over so firmly that fairs are held
upon it. A decided diierence of climate prevails between the con-
tinental Bide and the ocean side. That of the latter is more equable,
being warmer in winter and cooler in summer. Once at the end of
Ifovember, when crossing the Miknni pass on ray way from Niigata,
I saw all the mountains white with snow behind me, whilst the country
on the Tokio side was f»till wholly covered with verdure. On the
Pacific side the climate is a normal insular climate, and from the South
Cape of Kiufihiu up to the neighbourhood of the capital Tokio the warm
current known a» the Knroshiwo, the Gulf Stream of the Pacino, has a
considerable influence upon the temperature.
Those parts of Japan which have not to aufler from snow or cold, are
of course of greater importance in respect to agricTilture. Moreover the
character of the coast and the number of good harbours afford facilities
of communication which give Southern Japan a further economical
advantage over the northern parts of the countiy- In former times
when the empire was split up into a number of domimona ruled by
the 60-called daimios, who were feudal chiefs with a certain military
power, the three provinceB of Satsuma, Tosa, and C bosh in were the most
power fnh Up to the time of the recent restoration of the Mikado's
government they used to play the most important part, and even at the
present day the ministry is, with hut few exceptions, composed of natives
of Satsuma and Choshiu. This further shows how the intellectual power
also remained with Southern Japan. Yery remarkable is the geo-
graphical situation of these three provinces, a circumBtanoe which has
no doubt had a great deal to do with their political importance, Eaoh
of them was easily defensible on account of its natural boundaries, sea on
the one side and high mountains on the other, and each had a good and
important port, Choshiu is situated on the narrow straits of Shimo-
noseki, the inlet to the inland sea, one of the most important gates to
the whole of Japan. Here the military claMS are always on the alert,
and as, owing to the number of vessels constantly passing by, informa-
tion waB easily procured, not only from all parts of Japan but also from
abroad, measures could be concerted accordingly. The Choshiu-Samurai
was always considered to be a good sol(3ier, but more on account of his
strategical qualities than in consequence of his bravery in open battle.
The Satsuma man is a soldier who is seen to the best advantage when
fighting, a eoldier to the core^ full of energy and eamestness, and
straightforward in his sayings and doings.
Tosa is a rich country, and its people are renowned for their honesty
WITH REHARES 09 THE PEOPLE. 99
and tmthfalneas. Heie I met with true friendly feeling, and I enjoy
the remembianoe of the days spent in a village of this province. At
the beginiung of 1885 I revisited the island of Shikoku to perfect some
details of my previous surveys and explorations. After crossing the
mountain chain extending between Eawanoye and the Namto Straits, I
entered the valley of the Yosbinogawa, and engaged a boat to go up the
river in order to observe the geological formation at the part where the
stream crosses the main mass of the mountains of the island. We had to
ascend the rapids, and this was a most interesting journey. Several times
the boat had to be attached to ropes secured to some projecting rock further
up stream, in order to let it swing from the rocky to the flat shore.
The Yoshinogawa valley, where it crosses the mountains is of extreme
beauty. Nowhere could one see a more beautiful deep emerald green
than that of the water, while the mica schists appear like silver in the
sunshine, offering a strong contrast to the black shadows of the nume-
rous fissures and caves. Unfortunately I met with an accident to my
foot when jumping across a stream, and became unable to walk. When
I got to Eawanoye, beyond which place the boatmen refused to go on
account of the dangers, I had a sedan-chair made of bamboo, with a
board for a seat, for which I paid the undoubtedly small sum of lOd.
Ouried by two coolies, and kept in a position by no means comfDrtable,
I tracked the course of the Yoshinogawa, some time passing along steep
precipices with the river some hundred feet below. We had to cross a
number of tributaries of the Yoshinogawa, which were bridged over by
tree-trunks, connecting huge blocks of stone lying in the bed of the
river. I confess that I sometimes felt a little uneasy when I found
myself amidst the raging waters. But my coolies were to be relied on.
They delivered me at Biosekimura, where I was well received by my
friends, in as sound a condition as could have been expected.
It was at the beginning of January that I started from Hiteyoshi,
one of the old castle towns of the province of Higo, to proceed to
Eagoshima, the capital of Satsuma. Much snow had fallen on the
previous day, and it was bitterly cold. The road soon led up a small
valley, and not very long afterwards I found myself on a kind of
slightly rising plateau, nearly covered with snow. My servant and a
Japanese draughtsman who accompanied me were behind with the
luggage, and I pursued my way quite alone. The plateau appeared
endless, and it was not until I had gone a distance of about six miles
that I reached its edge. Here at the frontier of Satsuma this plateau
ends in steep clifb, and I found myself on the edge of an enormous
crater surrounding the famous volcanic group of Eirishimayama. The
view from the edge of the plateau, after seeing nothing but slightly
undulating country was fascinating. Down below extended tracts of
fertile and highly cultivated country, along the crater cliff flowed a
broad winding river, from out the crater rose a mass of mountains
100
THE PflrSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF JAPAN,
crowned by a number of lofty pealts, and far away in the background
towered the gracefiil couesi of Sakuraekinia and Kaimondake.
The greater portion of the province of Satsnma consists of a low
tableland of white volanio tuflF with mnch pumice. This tableland i&
very sterile. The northern parts of the province, which are hilly, and
where the valleys are highly cultivated, are of greater value. The
southern section of the Satsuma peninsula deservea to be praised as one
of the finest spots in the whole country. There are some charming
lakes, situated very close to the aea-shore, which have been craters in
former times. The summits of the hills offer beautiful views over the
bay of Kagoshima, the neighbouring coast, and the volcanic ifilands
of the Liukiu-cbain. Kaimondake» a fine conical mountain, stands like
an outpostj being onlj^ connected with the mainland by a narrow neck.
The recent hiatoiy of Japan has been praised by some writers,
blamed by others* I may be allowed to submit some opinions derived
from a long intercourse with all sections of the Japanese people. My
duties and my travels brought me into close contact with farmers,
merchants, manufacturers, and others, in different parts of the country,
an advantage which only the travelling observer has occasion to enjoy.
Japan is an agricultnral conntry. Nearly half the people are tillers
of the soil. The number of inhabitants exceeds that of England ; the
average density of population being about the same as in this country.
Among the crops grown, rice takes the foremost place; but can only be
grown in those parts of the country which are capable of irrigation, such
as plains and valleys. Hillsides and dry tracts of land are chiefly sown
with barley and wheat, with the addition of beans, peas, millet, Indian
com, potatoes, &c. The cultivation of tea is very important^ notably
for e^tport, as is that of the mulberry-tree in connection witli the
manufacture of bilk. In Northern Japan we meet with the lacquer
tree; in the southern part of the countiy with cotton, with certain plants
from which paper is manufactured, the tobacco plant, &c. The style of
living is simple, modest, and devoid of luxury. In addition to rice,
which forms the staple of the daily food, fish and vegetables are
commonly eaten. Comparing our dwelling-houses with those of the
Japanese we might say that the former are distinguished by substantial
and lasting qualities, while the Japanes structures are light, airy, and
perishable. Even a Japanese of the first-class does not require roomy
lodgings ; be feels more at home in a email place ; often living without
any other furniture than the charceal braziers^ A small garden, gs^j
with flowers in the spring, and commonly attached to the best room in
the house, is hardly ever wanting, and is frequently supplemented by
some stone lanterns, and perhaps also a mi nature pond with gold fish.
Should the house be in a place from whence a fine view can be obtained,
the owner will be justly proud of this circumstance. In one of tho
places which I visited, the beauties of the scenery and the wide view
WiTH REMARKS ON THE PEOPLE. /... 101
were alluded to in a Chinese poem hung upon the wall,1^cv approximate
translation being : ** Thousand miles — one glance."
One of the great obstacles to progress is offered by thej^^pendence
upon the Chinese language. Only the spoken language isV^panese,
and even in this the use of Chinese words is regarded as a signjof
education. Public documents, scientific books, newspapers, <&c., ard all
written in a mixture of Chinese and Japanese. There is another 's^le-
of writing, called Hirakana, quite independent of the Chinese, which* i^'
chiefly used by women, and another known as the Earakana, a system of/
phonetical characters chiefly used in combination with Chinese. A
Chinese character stands as the symbol of a conception. The number
of these characters is enormous. If you ask a Japanese to read off the
name of a certain town or of a certain mountain from a map he will be
found unable to do so if he be not acquainted with the locality in ques-
tion. These names can commonly be read both in the Japanese and in
the Chinese way, and it is always doubtful which transliteration is the
one in use. Another example may serve to show how obstructive the
use of Chinese must be. Suppose a military force be sent to a certain
part of the interior to suppress a riot or to encounter any enemy. The
officers in command may be provided with excellent maps on which
the names are given in Chinese. In such a case much difficulty is sure
to be met with in reading the maps. Or take the reverse case. A
surveyor working amongst the mountains leams from the inhabitants,
the name of a certain peak, or of a certain locality. To write it down
in Chinese he must ask the people for the necessary character. But
perhaps they do not know this. In such a case he cannot write it, and
perhaps drops it altogether, making the very common remark, " Shikata-
go-nai," which means " It cannot be helped." A Chinese and an edu-
cated Japanese could exchange ideas in writing, but not by speech. The
employment of Chinese as a generally adopted means for the transmission
of thoughts, nevertheless offers certain advantages. The inoculation, so
to say, of the brain with Chinese characters which has been in practice
for a thousand years has tended wonderfully to develop the faculties of
memory. In this way we may account for the cleverness commonly
shown by Japanese students in the branches of elementary learning.
The use of Chinese as a written language, by necessitating the constant
employment of the brush, has also been an important factor in the
development of art. For drawing, the soft brush is certainly much
more suitable than the hard pencil. Merely by his lessons in writing
the Japanese pupil early obtained a certain facility of touch, a certain
command over the representation of form by lines.
When, some thirty years ago, western civilisation, equipped with its
imposing armour of science and its technical appliances, drew near Japan,
it was just at the most favourable moment for forcing its way into the
country. Internal struggles had broken down the feudal system, the
No. IL— Feb. 1887.] I
102
.pJUTAm M.yTLAND*S AND CAPTAIN TALBOTS
old rights* of * the Mikado were restored, ami after years of civil war
the worW, of .peace began. CiTilisation was the word. What could have
been nfgri^ convenient in Bticb a case than to apply the foreign pattern
to tte new organisation of public order? For the administrative B^'stem
fo/ the* navy, the army, the post, the telegraph, &c., foreign models were
spe^?dily adapted. It must be remarked that those changes did not take
'**jh*ce fipontaneously. The ends aimed at by the Imperial party during
' Hho civil war were of a political character^ the civilising refoi-ms were
. not anticipated. Had those civilising reforms been the direct resnlt of
internal development, no doubt they would have been undertaken with
H great deal more moderation, steadiness, and perseverance.
The acquisitions made up to the present are commonly looked upon
with admiration. Certainly the Jnpaneae desei*ve our ftill sympathy
for their endeavours, and it cannot be denied that they have been in
some degree successful. We hope that the final result will be favourable
to them. The rate of advance deairable depends, in my opinion, alto-
gether upon the opening up of the country* And the country must be
opened np some time or other, in consequence of the constant pressure
acting from without. When it is so oiiened up, it will be shown how
far the power of the Japanese has been developed to become an agent in
inteniational struggles. The power of the peoplo should be strengthened
both intellectually and materially. In the latter direction the Geological
Survey was expected to become an important aid to progress. The chief
object of this suiTey was the systematic investigation of the local and
physical conditions of the coiintry and the dependence of the population
ui>on these conditions. From the result of these investigations pro-
posals were to l>6 drawn up for the utilisation of the country's resources.
The entire work was therefore a species of applied geography. I am
extremely sorry at not having been able to convince the Japanese
Government of the high importance, nay, of the necessity of the under-
taking, and the surveys are consequently being continued Avi thou t much
attention being paid to the practical aims with special reference to which
they were originally started. I may he allowed to express the hope that
the Geological Survey of Japan may still become what it was intended
to be» namely, a mediator between science and the economical require-
ments of the country.
Captain Maitland'B and Captain TaJhoCs Journeys in Afffhamsian.
A VERY interesting piece of exploration was completed in Afghanistan
in the autumn and winter of 1885 by Captain P. J, Maitland and Captain
the Hun. M. G. Talbot, These two officers ascended the valley of the
Ileri-rud, past Obeh (visited hj Khanikotf) ai* far as Daulatyar. Here
the party struck upon the route followed in 1837 by Captain Arthur
JOURNEYS IN AFGHANISTAN. 108
Conolly in his adventarons journey from Cabul to Khiva, of which
anfortnnately no complete record exists, though there are some inter-
esting extracts in the * Calcutta Eeview' for 1851. At Badghah, where
Conolly must have probably turned off northwards over the mountains
to Maimanah, Captain Maitland was shown a certificate in Persian
from Colonel Conolly, stating that he had received important services
^m Muhammad Azim, the late Ataluk or petty chief of the district.
The story told to Captain Maitland was, that the Ataluk and his men
had beaten off an attack made on Conolly, but from the latter's diary it
would seem that matters did not come to actual fighting, though on one
occasion, at least, things were very near to it. Crossing the water-
parting between the two head streams of the Heri-rud, the Sar-i-jangal
and the Lai streams, Captain Maitland ascended the course of the latter,
through a well populated and cultivated valley. Large flocks of sheep and
goats were seen, the former of which supply the skins for a large number
of posttns or woollen coats made at Kabul. The winter is severe, and
snow closes all the roads from the middle of November till the middle
of February, and for forty or sixty days after that the country is said
to be absolutely impassable even for pedestrians, the clayey roads being
very deep and slippery, and every little stream a raging torrent. The
Hazarahs appeared to be a simple, good-natured, industrious people, but
of no value for fighting. The women did not seem to merit the character
for immorality ascribed to them. There is a welcome absence of crime
in the Hazarajat, which is no doubt due to the comparatively tractable
nature of the people. Captain Maitland's route from the upper valley
of the Heri-rud into the Yaikolang or Yak Walang valley is diflScult to
trace, owing to the unsatisfactory nature of the existing maps,* but it
lies probably along the same line as that taken in reverse direction by
Captain Conolly. The pass over which they crossed, descending upon
Zari in the Yak Walang valley, is called the Bakkak Kotal, and Captain
Maitland says it is the only real difficulty on the whole road between
Herat and Bamian, and much worse, so far as he knows, than anythiDg
on the Besud road between Herat and Kabul. This latter road was
examined by Dafadar Muhammad Akbar Khan, who had instructions to
follow the main Kabul road through Besud to Cardan Diwal, and con-
tinuing along the Kabul-Bamian road to cross the Irak pass and join
Captain Maitland at Zubak in Bamian. This was carried out by the
Dafadar, and his topography has furnished a reliable knowledge of the
remainder of the main road from Kabul to Herat. The point where
the Besud and the Bamian routes diverge is a small deserted fort, called
Kala Sofarak, between the Lai and Kerman valleys, and forty-one miles
from Daulatyar.
The Yak Walang stream comes from a watershed to the east, on the
* The most trustworthy of the old mapa is the large one prepared by Eldred
PoMmger in 1840, on the a^e of eight milea to the inch.
I 2
104
CAPTAIN MAITLAND'S AND CAPTAIN TALBOTS
other side of which the drainage is io Bam i an. Its principal courae is al
the Band* i- Amir or Baiid-i*Barbar, a eeriea of curious natui^ dams
forming seven narrow and deep kkee. It fomiB the upper course of the
river called Balkh Ao or sti^am of Balkh, along the course of which runs
the ancient road from Bamian to Balkh* Part of this road was examined
by Captain Maitland, and en route he visited the ruins of Chahilburj
and Khana Yahudi. On a high scarped hill between the two are the
niiuH of Shabar-i-Barbar, which according to tradition was once the
capital of kiugs who luled over a country most of which is now
included in the Hazarajat. The people are said to have been called
Barl>ar, and to have l>een in posscBsion of the country, when the Tartars
or Mugbals, from whom the Hazarahs are said to have sprnng, first
invaded it. Captain Maitland considers that they may have been Tajiks
of the same stock as those now living in Badakhehan. An excursion
was made to the celebrated Band-i-Amir lakes, which are mentioned
by tbe poet Moore under tho name of '* Bendemeer's gtream*" From
thence there are roads to Kamard and to Mazar-i«Sharif by Dara-i-
Tufluf, Tbe former is very difficult, and the latter by no means easy
in certain places, but nevertheless important. On crossing the high
flat watershed of the Yak Walang [and Bamian streams the main
features of the country became apparent. On the north side of tho^fll
main range stretches a vast broken phiteau diversified by small ranges
and scored by deep valleys and raviDcs, but there is a tolerably well
defined elevated tract lying between the Rud-i-Band-i-Amir on the
w^est, and the Ghori or Kundnz river on the east. It thus fills up^ w^ith
tbe exception of the narrow valley of these rivers, the whole space
between the Hindu Eiish and the high mountains about tbe sources of
the Hari*nid and Murghab. The plateau slopes gently to the north
and parts of it are fairly level. It comes to an end about the latitude of
Haibak, but between it and the plain of Afghan Turkistan is another
range or narrow irregular plateau rising to a considerable height above
the latter, and sharply defining the boundary between the valley of the
Oxus and the Kohietan. This range runs east and west at a distance of
five to twelve miles from the towns of Tashkurgan, Mazar-i-Shanf^ and
Balkh, and appears to extend from near Shibarghan on the west to not
far from Knnduz on the east. This feature w^as a great surprise, for it is
liardly indicated on tbe map» and is not mentioned by previous travellers.
The main plateau is intersected by three very deep parallel valleys,
iiinning from west to east and draining to the Kundiiz river. Tho fii-st
is that of Bamian near the main range, tho next that of Saighan, and the
thii'd Kamard. North of Kamard is the rather high ridge which the road
crosses by the Kara Kotal, and from its farther side the long deep defile
of tbe Tashknrghan stream runs north through tho whole remaining
leogths of the plateau to that town.
At Bamian, which is about 380 milos from Herat, and 132 from
JOURNEYS IN AFGHANISTAN. 105
DftDlatyar, the ofiSoers stayed several days and examined the famous
idols— a detailed account of which was written by Captain Talbot — the
caves and ruins. To see Bamian alone, Captain Maitland remarks, was
worth all the trouble of the journey. Full details were obtained
respecting the three passes over the main range from the lower end of
Bamian, viz. the Panjfilan, the Irak, and the Shibar or Sbabar. Bamian
is a deep valley bounded on the south by spurs of the main range, here
known as the Koh-i-baba. On the north side is a long mountain over
which there are only one or two indifferent tracks. The main road goes
up the valley westward, and for some miles through a defile from which
two parallel roads lead to Saighan, the population of which, as of
Bamian, is Tajik with a certain admixture of Hazarahs. The valleys,
though narrow, are well cultivated, and there is abundance of fruit.
The hiUsy however, are too high and rocky for the daima cultivation so
universal in the Hazarajat, and grain is imported. All the way along
the route Captain Maitland found a constant stream of people migrating
from the country about Kabul to Afghan Turkistan, a movement which
is always proceeding more or less, but which was at that time more
marked than usual on account of the scarcity at Kabul. To the valley
of Kamard, which is just beyond Saighan, there are three roads, the
Maidanak, the celebrated Dandan Shikan or ** tooth-breaker," and the
Dosht-i-Sufed, which appears to be the best of the three, as well as the
shortest line to Bajgah. The lofty cliffs inclosing the valley of
Kamard are very striking, and the land is excellently cultivated, but
there is not much of it. Passing through Bajgah, the farthest British
poet occupied in 1839, and Bui, Khuram was reached, whither Ferrier
claims to have come from Balkh, and from thence to have turned off
eastward to the Eud-i-Band-i-Amir. The opinion, however, of both
Captain Maitland and Captain Talbot is that Ferrier*s travels were
drawn up from hearsay information and that he probably never left
Herat.
At Haibak the two officers parted company, Captain Talbot pro-
ceeding into the valley of the Ghori, while Captain Maitland prepared to
continue the journey vi& Mazar-i-Sharif and Sar-i-Pul, to rejoin the
British Commissioner, Sir Joseph West Eidgeway, on the Murghab.
Accompanied by a Mehmandar from Sardar Ishak Khan, the Governor-
General of Afghan Turkistan, Captain Maitland proceeded to Taskhur-
ghan, a large town embedded in fruit-trees, and possessing a fine
covered bazaar of 450 or 500 shops. Some distance out on the plain to
the north are mounds marking the site of Khulm, the capital of the
former Khan. It was abandoned by one of the last Khans, as the water
supply was liable to be cut off, and Tashkurghan built instead nearer to
the hills. The Governor, a learned Ghilzai named Purdil Khan, called
on Captain Maitland and personally accompanied him through the
citadel and over the bazaar. He had known Sir Herbert Edwards at
106
CAPTAIX MAITLAND^S AND CAPTAIK TALBOTS
MultAn in past years, and had aLso lived at Lahore. The friendly
hebavionr of the Afghans was here very strikint^, and the i>eople oon-
tinuallj assured Captain Maitlantl that the English and the Afghans
were now one» and that he was to coneider himself in his own country.
Ilero the plain of Afghan Tnrkistan is bounded on the south by the
high range already mentioned. Its epnrs are ineigniticant and the
great level expanse stretches almost from the base of the bilia away
north to the OxuSj the nearest point of which is somewhat less than
thirty mOes from Taahkurghan. The plain is an alluvial flat, resembles
p Di-tioBS of the Pan jab, and is w^atered here by the Taahkurghan stream
run off into irrigation canals, but the cultivation does not extend very
far. To the west the plain is fertilised by the water of the Band-i-Amir
which supplies eighteen canals (nahar) through the whole tmct from
Akcha nearly to Tashkurghan. On the way to Mazar-i -Sharif one
crosses the Abadu Kotal, where Sardar Muhammad Jan and two others
were put to death by the Amir's ordere a few years since. Captain
Maitland was honourably received at Mazar-i-Sbarif, and the day after
his arrival he took a ride outside the town, the country about which
is very well cultivated, and is intersected with numerous irrigation
ditches. The to\vn is now thoroiighly established as the capital of
Afghan Turkistan, Balkh being at the present day a comparatively
insignificant place, quite unworthy of the prominent place it occupies on
most maps. Mazar-i*Sharif is not so large as Tashkurghan, but is
increasing rapidly in size and has (juite outgrown its walls, which were
never more than sufficient to protect the place from marauding Turco-
mans. It possesBes a citadel bnilt, as usual, on a mound, and contains an
arsenal moved from Takhtapul, the military cantonment six miles west.
The Sardar, or Governor-General, received Captain Maitland and
later on Captai^n Talbot with great friendliness. He is a rather stout,
good-natured looking man of seven or eight and thirty, is very hand*
Bomely dressed, and affects all the state of a royal personage. lie is said
to be a hard* working administrator, to keep everything in good order,
to be popular with the Afghans, and is everywhere spoken of as a
humane niter.
Captain Talbot quitted Mazar by the road going south up the Band-
i-Amir river, which enters the plain through a gap in tho hill S.S.W. of
Mazar, the regular road going in a different direction through Balkh
and Akcha to Shibarghan, and thence to Sar-i-Pul and MaimanaL The
country traversed along the fonner route consists entirely of low grassy,
but often steep-sided ridges, running from the high hills on the south
to the outer range on the north. There are many fertile and well
cultivated valleys in this tract all draining to the Sar-i*Pul stream.
The low ridges, hills, and hillocks of light sandy soil, covered with
grass in spring and summer, are characteristic of Afghan Turlcistan,
and cover a great part of its surface. They extend also west of tho
JOURHETS IX AFGHAKISTAX. 107
Mnrgliab, and merge into the rolling downs of Badgbi& Dafadar
Sthibdad Khan ascended the Band-i-Amir stream some three marches
berond Tnkar, whidi was readied by Captain Maitland. Some fifty
BiikB of the oonrse ci the river therefore remain unexplored, but
reliable infcmnation about the road has been acquired.
At Sar-i-Pul Captain Maitland was very hospitably received by the
GovenKflr-Oeneral. The town itself is a mass of orchards, something
Hba Tashkoighan, but in a wide valley, surrounded by low hills. The
Hamanah valley is well cultivated and populated ; the town is perhaps
two-thirds the mxe of Herat, and stands in an open, cultivated plain ;
thers is a large covered basaar, but the houses of the iovra are vert
poor, and irr^;olarly distributed within the area enclosed by the walls.
Fiom Maimanah Captain Maitland marched 53 miles to Chahar Sbamba,
arriving there on the 16th of December, exactly three months since
leaving the headquarters of the Mission at Deh Afghan, in the Herat
valley.
Captain Talbot in his notes remarks that the Balkh Ao runs in a
narrow, deep valley, closely shut in by precipitous hills several thousand
feet higher* North and east of it there is a plateau rising gently north-
wards for many miles, and culminating in rounded knolls about 11,000
or 12,000 feet high. The edge of the plateau fetcing the river is
abruptly precipitous, while beyond the culminating knolls there is
probably a pretty steep drop to the north. The whole of the region
is uninhabited, except where the plateau is intersected by the Dara Isuf.
The general results of the expedition are that the Herat triangulation
has been carried to Bamian, and connected with points in the immediate
neighbourhood of those fixed by the Kabul triangulation. It is possible
that some point may be found to be common to both surveys, and so afford
a check on the work. From Bamian triangulations have been carried
northward to Tashkurghan and the immediate neighbourhood of Ma/ar,
while points have been fixed north of the Oxns and east of Kunduz.
The heads of the Hari-rud and Balkh Ao rivers have been surveyed, not
completely, but all the main features have been obtained. The road
from Daulatjar to Bamian has been surveyed, as also that from Biiuiian
to Haibak and Tashkurghan, and from Haibak vi& Ghori to within two
marches of the Chahardar Pass. All the country overlooked on either
side the route has been sketched, a total area of about 9000 square miles
having been surveyed and reconnoitred on the one-eighth inch scale, and
sufficient points fixed trigonometrically to determine the greater part of
the Helmand valley, a large portion of the country between the Balkh
Ao and Tashkurghan rivers, and the unsurveyed portion south of the
OxuB from the meridian of Tashkurghan to that of Khanabad.
108
A JOUEXEY IK THE PEOVINCE OF SAN PAULO, BRAZIL,
A Journey in the Provinee of San Paulo, Brazil,
"Sepiember
Holme.
in
July-
1885.
ByE.
Any interest which an account of this trip, made in the long vacation
of 1885, may have for memhei^ of theEoyal Geographical ScKJiety, will
conftist not so mnch in any new factia which it may bring to lights as
in showing that, however much the science of geography may be
neglected by the jiiuior members of the IlniverHity of Oxford bm a stndy,
yet the practical application of the scienc^e finds some devotees- The
primary objects of the expedition were import, and the unequalled excite-
ment to be produced by penetration into unknown lands. When we
started, we had no idea to what part of Brazil wo were actually direct-
ing our steps, nor could we get any definite information from books or
from persons who had been to Brazil, as to what kiud of adventures we
might expect to encounter. To theae facts may be attributed the paucity
of results, from the scientific explorer's point of view, that wo have
attained. Wo had no scientific instruments whatever with us, except a
compass and a field glasa^ We had thought of taking a photographic
camera^ bnt the discouraging remarks of an advisor, who assured us
that we should never reach country that was not Avell known, coupled
with motives of economy and a desire to reduce our baggage in bulk as
much aa possiblcj made us change onr minds ; and we have never ceased
to regret it. The banks of the Piracicaba below the town, and those of
the Tiet^ have never been painted or photogi-aphed.
On reaching Eio, we found that our friends there could give us no
better advice than the discouraging people at home : so we shook the
dust off our feet, and at 5 a.m. on July 2Bth left Eio by train. The fares
w^ere rathc^r heavy, l>ecau&e they charged for all luggage that went in
the van* But after this first journey we learnt by experience, and put
nearly all onr baggage under the seats of the carriage. We bad a con-
siderable amount of baggage, for wo had brought a tent and canteen and
other requisites for camping-out from England, and had purchased a
large amount of ammunition in lUo. The price of hm first class tickets
to San Paulo was 58,800 reis : and our baggage was charged 24,700 reis.
The price of one second class ticket to San Paulo is 15,500. The ex- .
change was rather low then, making about 50 reis go to the penny, or
la, 8d* to the niilreis, or thousand reis, whereas the milreis ought to be 2«.,
its par value. On leaving Kio wo had 752,000 reis with us, or about 60/<
We reached San Paulo soon after 6 p.m. It was here that wo first
succeeded in getting practical information about the interior, which
decided us to go to Piracicaba on the river of the same name* The
journey from Son Pnulo to Piracicaba cost us altogether 34,000 reis
I
I
I3k JCLTSEnEMBSM^ ItSS. IM
iirlifc»s Ittggmge. Hie aeoond cUai £u« &om San Ftulo to Pincicftbik
Hxacacafaa is a louiBhiiig town, mostl j bnOt of blue, one-€tomd
hornet on ti>e top and stdes of a steep hill bek)w wbidi flows tbe
Anions nrcr KmcMmfas. Tliere are two £uil j good liotels^ a Roman
CktiioSic cinizfsil, a Protestant c^nrck, a sngar mill on the north side of
tke zirec, and a cotton mill on tbo sonth mde. Tliere are no buildings
m tim nortk side exo^ tlie sngar milL There is a ytacj laige per*
ffBtsgf^ of Gennans in the town ; in htct nearly eveiy shop is kept by a
Gcnmn. Hie si^ar mill is managed by a Brazilian ; the ootton mill is
■snaged by an Englishman, assisted by a United States Ameiioan*
This was the only Englifdiman we disooTered in the town, except two
Xanchester men who worked in the ootton milL They had been there
aome years, and sud they liked the country Tory mnch, as it was never
ooid.
At Ksscicaba is a magnificent water£alL From here the riTers are
naTigafale far canoes all the way to the Farani, with the exception of
two portages^ said to be Tery easy, on the lower Tiele.
There are some small steamers whidi ran from Hraoioaba to Porto
de Len^oes on the Tiet6 when the water is high enough, to convey ooffide
mp the river. When the water is too low, their place is taken by small
iron barges, whidi are punted along at a fine pace by about twelve men.
At intervals down the river there are four or five ** stations," where
wood is stored for the steamers, and where people living near the river
can bring their coffee to be taken on board the steamers. The stations
are mostly in charge of a solitary man.
At Itapura, the junction of the Tiet6 and Parani, is a colony ot
Bugres ICansos, or tame Indians, under a Brazilian governor. Twice in
the 3rear a canoe is sent &om Itapura to Piracicaba conveying a despatch
femi the governor, and returning with stores for his consumption. The
journey takes about a month each way. We met this canoe on its way
when we were down the river.
Besides the steamers and barges, there is no other kind of craft on
the river except '* canoes," which are dug out of solid trees, and vary
&om about twelve feet to thirty feet long. These they punt up stream,
and generally paddle down stream.
The south bank of the river at Piracicaba is lined for about half a
mile with negresses of all sizes, in various degrees of nudity, washing
clothes. With the exception of the river men, who are engaged on the
steamers and barges, none of the inhabitants, it appeared, had ever been
down the river. Along the south bank is a row of houses occupied by
these river men. The houses, consisting of two or three rooms, were
clean and sweet, and generally painted some bright colour inside, but
totally destitute of famiture or ornament, save for a small table, a ohair
or two, and a hammock. The people seemed to prefer sitting on the
110 A JOURNEY IN THE PROVINCE OF SAX PAULO, BflAZIL, ^^
floor. With tlio help of a Germ an shopkeeper, named Gottlob, who
actctl as iuterprctcr* we engaged a Brazilian of the name of Candido
Camargo to be the captain of the expedition, Gottlob was snch a very
bad inteipreter, that our arrangementa with Candido were of a most
indefinite kind, and we started not qmitc knowing what agreement had
been come to. We paid 100,000 rcis down, antl finally started on August
4th, with four men and a boy, some doga, and three canoes, two of which
were tied together, the thii-d going separate. On otir return on September
4th, wo paid tbem 272,000 reis more. For this they provisioned us, though
we took extra stores on our own account to the value of about 30,000 reis,
and tbey also provided ammunition or anything else which they required
for their own use. The provieions which they brought were sacks of
beans, farinlia de mais, salt, sugar, rice, coffee, salt pork, and jerked beef.
Our meale really consisted of what wo shot or catight.
Wo reached the juncture of the Piracicalia and Tiete on August lOth,
and Porto de Leoi^oea on the 12th. 1 may remark that in the map ot
San l^aulo which I recently sent to the Royal Geographical tSociety, the
Pixacicaba river is made to join the Tiete too high up. It really joins
the Tiete considerably lower down, i. e. nearer to Porto de Lcn9oes. We
spent ten days down the Tiete, and started back from Porto de Len^oes
on August 23rd, reaching Piracieaba on September 3rd.
The camarctdos were very pleasant, light-hearted men, and were ver^^
kind to us. Though we started without knowing a word of Portuguese,
they took such trouble with us, that wo were soon able to say and under-
stand as much as ever we wanted. Wo bad a dictionary with us. They
were all Koman Catholics. They worked very fairly bard at punting
and paddling* though hard work was obviously not natural to them,
Three of them, including Candido, said they worked at Piracica
for a few months in the year as brick makers, and spent the rest of th
time hunting and fishing on the river. They had all boon as far as
Lengoes, except the boy : it was the first time be had gone far down
the river.
The fifth man was a regular backwoods huntsman, who lived in the
forest some miles from Piracieaba. He was the owner of the dogs. He was
a good shot, a wonderful ventriloquitit, imitating the noises of various birds
with remarkable ability, and was very agile in making his way through
the tangled forest. Ho used flint ami steel in profereucc h) matches.
They were all keen upon sport, though their g^ms, of French or
German make, were of the most miserable description. The men all
smoked cigarettes; the boy smoked a pipe. They brought some rum,
but seldom appeared to drink any, and were always 8ober< They had
very poor appetites, and after a long day's work Avould frequently eat
nothiDg more than a plateful of rice and farinha.
As to the rivers, their general character may well Ije compared with
portions of the estuary of the Dart, notably that part called Shai'pham
IN JULY-SEPTEMBER, 1885. Ill
Woods ; or a still better idea may be got from parts of the Teifi, between
Eilgerran Castle and Cardigan. The denseness of the forest will be
miderstood when I say that we almost invariably had to cut dowQ a
nnmber of trees to make room for our tents, and that we seldom had
occasion to use onr tent-pegs, but merely tied the tent-ropes to trees.
At a rough estimate I should put the average width of the Piracicaba
at about 120 yards, and that of the TietS at about double. They are,
with occasional exceptions, shallow enough to permit of punting.
There are ten rapids between Piracicaba and Lengoes ; none of them
cause any trouble in going down stream, but five of them are difficult to
punt a loaded canoe against. There are [five lakes adjoining the river,
three on the north bank, and two on the south. Three of these are
little more than marshes; but two of those on the north bank are
magnificent sheets of water, one of them being about two miles long.
The two large lakes are clearly portions of the river which have at
some former time been cut off by a new bank silting up. They all teem
with birds and alligators.
A few miles below Piracicaba there are some lofty peaked hills : be-
yond these there is no high land to be seen all the way to Len^oes, with
the exception of the high banks, which run along nearly the whole way.
On the first day's journey down stream from Piracicaba we passed
three rapids, including the two worst ones on the river.
While near to Piracicaba we passed occasional cottages on the bank ;
but after the first few miles we saw no more signs of life until we came
to a small house, on which we encamped.
On the second day the banks were especially high, and the forest
especially thick. A few miles from the river was a farmhouse, which
was empty and deserted, the former occupant being dead. On that day
we saw no other houses.
On the third day we encamped by a hut which had been erected by
some hunters and deserted.
On the fourth day the banks were lower, but the forest was less
dense. We saw one cottage during that afternoon.
On the fifth day the banks were high again, but with beautiful sandy
beaches every mile or so ; and for about a mile in the middle of that
day's journey they were of steep rock running sheer into the water.
That day we passed one of the steamer stations, and three lakes — ^two
on the north bank, and one on the south.
On the sixth day we passed two lakes— one on the south bank and
one on the north, the latter being the largest of all the lakes. We
passed no houses that day, but stopped at night by a deserted cottage.
On the seventh day we saw no houses, and reached the mouth of
the Piracicaba during the afternoon. On that day we passed two fierce
rapids, the Piracicaba fiowing into the Tiete with a rapid of about a
mile in length.
113
A JOURNEY IX THE PROVmCE OF SAN PAULO, BRAZIL,
On the eighth day we passed five rapids, one only being of any
importance^ On that day we passed two or three cottages, and on the
ninth day reached Porto de Len^oes. Below Porto de Len^oes we passed
several rapids, but none of any importanoe.
The sport consists of tapir, deer, cjapibara^ and peccary, all of which
we got We were nnable to get dogs for tigers (as they call pumas and
jaguars), but one night a puma chased one of the dogs, and once, while
we were peccary hunting, one of our dogs was killed by a puma. There
are also ocelots, ant-eaters, bngios, monkeys, armadillos, coatis, pacas,
hares, alligators. A prepared tapir- or deer-Bkin can be bought for about
2000, a capibara skin for about 500. The birds appear innumerable, but
I may mention the pomba, bigiia, uru, macuque, Jabu, wild geese and
ducks, toucans of various species, parrots, parroquets, humming-birds.
We saw three or four snakes only, for in winter thoy mostly hibernat*;,
and for the same reason insects were no great plague. There were, it is
true, carrapatos (ticks), mosquitos, and ** jiggers," but not in sufficiently
large numbers to be a serious trouble. Among the numerous fishes
that we caught I may mention the dourado, or Brazilian salmon, the
maudif a scaleless fish with long feelers, and the cascudot which ie per*
fectly black, and which the men cooked, using its own skin as a pot to
oook it in,
Jnst below Len<^008 was a specially deep hole, where there were to
be caught to any extent large fish called snruhim^ not nnlike maudi, hot
weighing on the average about 20 lbs. We also caught one Jacu, an
enormous brute of the same kind, about 5 feet long. The jacu was too
coarse to eat, but all the other fish were excellent. The sunibim were,
however, better dried than fresh. So we dried in the sun all that wo
caught, and ate some on the voyage up stream, selling what we had over
at 1000 a piece.
At the village of Porto de Len^oes dwells a Brazilian of the name of
Cardia, with his wife and sister-in-law, who insisted on lodging and
feeding us while we were there. They were well-to-do and well-educated
people, speaking French fairly well. Senhor Cardia keeps a shop, at
which everything imaginable can be bought. The house is one-storied,
and there is no glass in the windows, which are closed at night with
shutters. Higher up the bank was a larger house, half built, belonging
to a brother of Cardials. There were only two other houses in the place.
One belonged to a man colled Louis, whose father had been a Swiss, and
who was a professional i>eecary hunter. The other house belonged to a
blacksmith called Francisco, a married man, who made little else than
horseshoes s^ml ftmces (instruments for cutting down the brushwood in
the fureat). Ho had made his anvil himself, but his vice had come from
England,
On approaching Piracicaba I went to see the house where the parents
of Pedro, our cafadoTf lived. It stood about two miles away from tho
I
I
IN JIJLY-SEPTEMBER. 1885. 113
north bank of the river. Three huts stood in a clearing; two were
bams, the third was the house, which was built of posts stuck into the
ground at intervals of four or five inches, without any plaster or other
covering, so that we could stand at one end of the house and look right
through it into the country beyond. It was, in fact, a cage, not a house.
It consisted of three rooms — a kitchen, a bedroom, and a sitting-room —
which only differed from one another in containing respectively a
stove, a bedstead, and a couple of benches. The roof was tiiatch ; the
floor, mud; doors there were none, not even in the outer walls, but
merely gaps.
The various other cottages which we passed on the river were of
much the same description, except that most of them had a certain
amount of mud plaster on the walls. It must have been very cold in
Pedro's house on winter nights, for there was generally a slight frost.
The days were hot, but not as a rule oppressively so. As far as the day
is concerned, we gathered that there is little difference in temperature
between summer and winter. The difference is felt in the nights, which
are cold in winter and hot in summer.
The rapid change of temperature at about 9 a.m. and 6 p.m. was verj-
striking. There was at night generally a thick mist, which often did
not lift until about 9 a.m.
The only product of the district in which any large trade is done is
coffee. The country people bring this, unground, in sacks containing
five arrobas each.
They were paid 20,000 per sack. There is also a certain amount of
maize, sugar, and cotton produced ; and bananas and oranges grow in
profusion where once planted, and are for the most part allowed to rot
on the trees, or are given to the pigs.
It is unfortunate for the district that the rivers flow, so to speak, the
wrong way. For this reason, I apprehend, it can never become a timber-
producing country. But for conveyance of other products it is very
conveniently situated, a few days' voyage up the river bringing the
product to Piracicaba, which is only two days by railway from Kio, or
one day from Santos.
It is only at the rapids that the adverse stream becomes a diffi-
culty, and this may bo largely remedied by simple appliances. On
the bank just above the worst rapid there is already placed a large
windlass, by which boats coming up can be hauled over the diffi-
culty. Windlasses placed at all the rapids would remove the only
obstructions to the navigation of hundreds of miles of those magnifioent
highways.
We saw, no doubt, the sunny side of the country, when the cold nights
kept down the insects and the snakes. The malaria, which generally
finds some victims during the summer months, can be avoided by the
simplest remedies. It is only the poverty, ignorance, and slovenliness
OEOORAPHICAL NOTEil
I
of tbe resitletits that gives it its opportuiii ty. For the sportsman the
count ry i» a jmradise ; and wliether the colonist would find it different,
I cannot Bay,
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
Tlie Emin Paaka Eelief Expeditioii. — Since our last issue the plans
of this important expedition have l:>een completed. It is managed by a
committco of private individuals sitting in London, and its coMmander,
3Ir. Stanley, left England on the 21st of January en route for the East
Coast of Africa* Mr* Stanley's staff will include six or seven EnropeAns^
and the route is finally decided to be via the Cougo from the West
Coast, But as the large native force of guards and porters has to be
engaged in Egypt and Eastern Africa, the expedition will be formed at
Tj^xmh&x^ and conveyed thenee in a fine steamer of 2000 tons round
the Capo of Good Hope to the mouth of the Congo. The party includes
an accomplishetl surveyor and a naturalist* and tbe interests of science
will be sedulously cared for. Our Council have subscribed the sum of
1000^. towards the expenses, with a view to that sum being applied in
aid of tbe geographical exploration of the country to bo travoi-sed^ and in
hope that the results of sucli exploration may be communicated for
publication by the Socio t3\
Dr* Oscar LeEZ has arrived at Zanzibar, and ia now on his way to
Europe. In the new number (12 of Band xxix.) of tbe ' Mitteilungen *
of the Vienna Geographical Society, we find his map of the Congo
between Stanley Falls and Kasonge, the stretch which, it will be
remembered, he took fifty days to traverse. This map contains much
information as to the nature of the banks and the people who inhabit
them. As Dr. Lenz*s last letter was dated from the Upper Congo, just
six months ago, and as he has no doubt stopped at various points on the
route, his journey has been comparatively rapid. But, as an instance of
the great advance in this respect in recent years, we may state that the
London Missionary Society has established a uionthly mail from Zan-
zibar to their stations on Lake Tanganyika. The mail caravan consists
of eight men, who perforin the journey bo rapidly that letters from
Mr, Here, at Lake Tanganyika, are received in England in about three
months after they are sent off. Through delays in the transmission of
certain parts of the machinery Mr. Ho re has not yet been able to com-
plete the steamer be has had on the stocks for about three years*
The Mang^anja and Yao.— According to a letter of tbe Eev. A. Hether*
wick, of Blantyre, the Maog'anja (a Mang'anja), otherwise Maravi, are
split up into a nnmher of tribes, speaking distinct dialects. The tribes
with whoso languages the wnter is ucqnaintcd are the following :
1, The Mang^anja proper, at the foot of the Sbire Falls, to tbe west of
the Shire. 2, The Mbewe, on the lower Shir^> near the Ruo, 3. The
I
OEOGRAPmCAL NOT£S. 115
Shirwa, sometinies called Ngnra or Nyanja, on the ifilands of Lake Shirwa
and in a few scattered villages on Mount Zomba. These are the people
among whom the first Universities' Mission was planted, at Magomero,
but who were scattered by the great Tao invasion of 1860-67. 4. The
Mbo, who once lived to the west of the Shir6 cataracts, but were driven
from their homes by the Mangoni. Only a remnant of them preserves
its independence by intrenching itself among the rocks, and keeping a
strict watch on all suspicious parties of the Mangoni people. 6. The
Chipeta, who once lived to the south-west of Nyassa, but who have been
destroyed or scattered by the Mangoni. Many of them live at Blantyre
as slaves of the Yao, who bought them of the Mangoni. 6. The Chewa,
of the Tumbuka, both to the west of the lake. Their dialect much
resembles that of the Chipeta. — According to the Eev. W. P. Johnson
there are four dialects of Yao, viz. Masaninga, Machinga, Amakali, and
Mwembe. To this the writer would add Mangoche, thus named after
the Mangoche Hill, to the south-east of the lake, whence the tribe were
driven in 1860 by the Machinga. Many of them live now near Blantyre.
Tlie Machinga now occupy Zomba, Chikata, Mponda's, and Mkata's on
Mangoche mountain. The Lomwe appear to be a sub-tribe of the Makua,
and the Anguru, on the eastern shore of Lake Shirwa, and the Takhwani,
on the road to Quilimane, are akin to them. The language of the Quili-
mane people is known as Chuabo. The tribes in the Zambezi delta speak
languages which seem to be akin both to the Makua and Mang'anja.
Of one of these, the Kwaga, the writer has prepared a vocabulary and a
grammatical sketch.
Exploration of the Lokeiy'e. — In the new number (10 of Band xiii.) of
the * Verhandlungen,' of the Berlin Geographical Society, Lieut. Tappen-
heck describes his journey down the Lokenje river, the great river which,
after joining the Kassai, flows into the Congo from the south. Lieut.
Tappenbeck takes up the story after Lieut. Kund was prostrated froin
his wound. His people had to make their own canoes, and run the
gauntlet of hostile natives most of the way down the river. In its
central course it varies from 300 to 500 yards inr width, sometimes
getting narrower, and flowing between thickly wooded banks. As it
approaches the Eassai, the forests recede, the river widens, and its
hanks become marshy. It is studded with muddy islands, and in its
lower course swarms with hippopotami, its banks abounding in bird-
life— geese, storks, pelican, flanungoes, ibises, and many other varieties.
The language of the people met with was quite unintelligible to the
natives who accompanied Lieut. Tappenbeck.
Deep-sea Soundings off the Horwegian Coast. — In consequence of the
continuous stormy weather prevailing last summer and autumn on
the west coast of Norway, the deep-sea soundings carried on there were
somewhat curtailed. However, last year a triangle, extending from
116
GEOGEAPmCAL NOTES.
Skoinvaer ninety Norwegian geographical miles to f^ea and up under tho
Lofuclen Islands, was Bounded, and it waa found that the ** bank **
referred to in tho 'Proceedings/ 1386, p, 724, approaches, as was
anticipated, tlie shore further northward, so that west of SkomA'a^r it
lies ninety Norwegian geographical miles from the shore, but west of
AndensBs only 30 to 36 nxilee. An it was impossible to extend the
fionndings so far norths the bank has therefore not 3'et been charted.
But from previous sonndings it appears that at Andenttjs it lies only
a few mOes off the shore, and that the depth sinks from some seventy
fathoms, somewhat abruptly, to about 400 fathoms. West of Skomvaer
the depth falls Bnddenly from 150 to some 300 fathoms. It appears,
therefore, that a bank far larger than the so-Galled " Storeg " by
Aalesnnd has been discovered, andj it is anticipated, one which will be
equally important to the cod fisheries. Captain Fabritius, the leader
of the expedition, intends provisionally to make an addendum to the
existing charts, on which will be drawn that part of the bank which
has been measured* About aix miles west of SkomTaar, a shoal was
found where the depth was only 30 feet of water.
Laie BalkasL— The foUowiDg notes on some of the geographical re-
sults of explorations of MM. Krasnoff and Ignatief in the neighbourhood
of Lake Balkash are taken from the current number of Petermann's
* Mitteilungen,* The river Kara-esu marked on existing maps does not
exist ; it has been confounded with the river-bed of the Kara-ssai, which
is dry throughout the year. The streams of the At-Lessken range
have long been dry. The most important points of the Chu-Ili chain
are the Andrakai and E an -Tan, from which other spurs shoot off. The
water of the river Hi is being diverted to the eastern arms of the delta ;
the westeni channels have become mere pools of standing water. For
three years the water in the main stream has not overflowed, while the
Kuril arm of the delta is becoming filled. The Kamau country is rich
in woods and reed-banks. The Kirghises sow millet when the Hi over-
flows; where the lakes have receded they sow wheat. Between the
desert of Kurgan-Kum and the mountains lies a level steppe. The
desert of Tau-Kura can be traversed in all directions. Many routes are
known to the Kirghises, along which in the spring good water can be
found. MM, Krasnofi* and Ignatief have recently discovered in the
Khan-Tengri group a now glacier called the Mushketof, Tvhich exceeds
in size the well-known Ssmenof glacier.
Indian Survey Frogramme of Current Seaaon.— The work of the Survey
of India during the present field season cotiHista of the folio wing operations i- —
Trigonomxtn(M Branch. — Owing to tlie paucity of officers available for field
jiartiea, the electro- tclftgraphic oiTerationa for determination of longitudes carried on
last year are anspendedj and one officer h being employed instead to take astra-
nomical observations for latitudes from Jubbalpore to Matlras, A party iire
extending a aeries of iecondary triangles along the Madrid coast from the Eistna
OEOOIUPHICAL NOTES.
117
»
I
•
I
rirer aouihward, aod crectiBg bratcong, &c, for the marine surveyors. Tidal obser.
vitiaiu «r« being token at tigliteen ports, aad linens of spirit-levels will be carried
fitna aerenil ports connecting them with tnansulation stations, so as to get as correct
a vtfiie as possible for tbe heights of the latter.
Topographical SuiTcys.^The party which bas 6ni&hed the survey of the
Andamans was under ordera for Upper Burma, but owing to the disturbed Btata
of that country hap proceeded to survey the Nicobar Islands, a task which it is
iDticipttted will occupy one field season. The Baluchistan party wa.i considerably
strengtliened during last season, owing to urgent demands of the military autho-
filie* for ipedal large scale surveys, and was employed on surveys on the two*mch
scale in the Kwaja Amran range and neighbourhood of Quetta. It is now resuming
the general survey of Baluchistan on the half-inch scale in continuation oi
preriotjs work. Another enrvej now completed is that of Cutch, and the jiarty
Iat«ly engaged there, as well as that recently eniijloyed in South Deccan, will bo
traosferred to revenue survey work in the Central Provinces. The Gujerat iwrty
will be split up into two, one to continue the Gujerat survey on the two-inch scale,
and the other to survey the forest reserves in the Thana Collectorate on the eight-
inch scale. During the autumn and early summer mouths the Oimalayaii party
were to operate in the Knlu and other hill States about Simla, and in Kangra during
the winter and spring, returning to recess quarters for the monsoon months. Captain
Hobday, who has lieea surveying the Andamans, has joined the trooj^s in Upper
Burma, and with the aid of an assistant superintendent and a few European
aurveyora, is engaged on such survey work as the militarj- movements will
render feasible. The completion of the Mysore survey enables the imrty which has
been working there for many years to undertake the topographical survey of the
Madras Presidency, an important task, to which reference was made in a previous
nnmber of the * Proceedings,' Raj pu tana is still far from completed, but the
presMng needs of the Baluchistan survey have necessitated the former party being
transferred to the latter region, where it will co-operate with Baluchiatan party No. 1.
The South Mahmtta survey party will be divided into two sections, one for forest
rcMTvea and the other for topography, of which an area of more than 25,000 squoro
mikst Including Qaa, avvaltn completion. For the im|K)rtant, but technical class of
"work known as Eevenue surveys, which include in some instances cadastral or field
hy field surveys, thirteen parties are assigned to the following localities: — Akyab,
Baati, Btlaapur, Gorakhpur^ Jubhulpore, Kamrup, Miizaffarpur, Punjab (Guidaspur,
Amritsar, and Shahpur districts), Kaipur, Sambalpur, Saugor, Seoui, aud Ghind-
wara.
JVW Survetf <f Calcutta, — This much needed want is shortly to be undertaken.
The last survey was made by Mr. Simma, c.e., ia the years 1847-49. It was
purely topographical, aud not only was no register of owners or occupiers prepared >
but no demarcation of the Government holdings was attempted, and nothing was
then done to ascertain the jiarties responsible to Govtrnmeot for the revenue. This
vaa subsequently done by Mr. Hey sham in 1851, and took five years to accomplish,
but during the past thirty years many changes have taken place and the wurk
requirea revision. The new stirvoy is also necessary for municipal purposcB, for
Mr. Simms^a survey was plotted on the scale of 100 feet to an inch, which in too
iraaall. The new survey is to be on the scale of 50 fet- 1 to the inch, and will include
all road% footpaths, build in ga, and drainage works, and other necessary details,
Biuaian Expedition to tlie New Siberian Islands.— We learn that a
telegram has recently been received by the Ru&dan Acaderaj of
Science annonncing the complete success of tbig expeditioCj under the
No. n.— Fkb. 1887.] s
118
GEOGRAPHICAL KOTES.
leadership of Bn Bunge and Baron von Toll, and the retnm of the
travellers to the mainland about the end of October last. The news
at present to hand is very meagre, but it appears that operations were
commenced in the spring by the deapatch of a stock of provisions and a
boat to the island of Kotelny, the outward journey being accomplished
in thirteen days and the return in three. On 2S)th April Baron von Toll
set out for the island of Ljaohow, with the object of examining the
island before the arrival of the bulk of the party, who followed later,
under the superinti&ndence of Dr. Bunge. In the summer the two
leaders separated, Baron von Toll spending the greater portion of his time
on the island of Kotelny, wliile his eompanion made a thorough explora-
tion of the island of Ljachow* Earlier in the year they had explored in
company five islands. In view of the very important result s which
may confidently be expected from this expedition, we await witli
interest the pnblication of fuller details.
The Muir Glacier, Alaska. — To the * American Jotinaal of Science * for
January, Mr. G. Frederick Wright contributes an account of his own
investigations of the Muir Glacier of Alaska, one of the largest glaciers
in the world. It enters an inlet of the same name at the head of
Glacier Bay. Alaska, in lat. 58° 50' N., long. 136° 40' W. Glacier Bay
is a body of water about 30 miles long and from 8 to 12 miles wide (but
narrowing to about three miles at its upper end) projecting in a north-
west direction from the east shore of Cross Sound. Near the mouth of
Glacier Baj is a cluster of low islands, named Beardslee, twenty-five to
thirty of them, compoaed of loose material, evidently glacial debris, and
in striking contrast to most of the islands* and shores in gonth-eastom
Alaska. These, like the other land to the south, are covered with
forest, whereas the islands and shores in the upper part of the bay are
entirely devoid of forest, having no doubt recently been covered with
glacial ice. The upper end of the bay is divided into two inlets of
unequal length, the eastern one being Mnir Inlet, a little over three
miles wide at its month, and extending to the north about the same
distance, narrowing at the upper end to a little over one mile, where it
is interrupted by the front of the Muir Glaoier. The monntain on the
east side of Muir Inlet is 2900 feet high, that on the west 3150,
lieing to about 5000 two or three miles baek» The base of those moun-
tains, metamorphic slate, is so much contorted, that Mr. Wright found
it impossible to ascertain their system of folds. The width of the ico
where the glacier breaks though between the mountains is 10,C64 feet,
a little over two miles, though the actual water-front is only one mile.
This front terminates in an angle projecting about a c^uarter of a mile
below the north-east and north-west corner of the inlet. The depth of
the w*ater 300 yards aotith of the ice-front is 516 feet, and the height of
the ice at the extremity of the angle in the middle of the inlet 250 feet,
with perpendicular front. Further back it rises to 300 aud 400 feet, the
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 119
sarfaoe of the glacier rising to the east and north-east about 100 feet to
the mile. On going ont in that direction on the ice, seven miles, Mr.
Wright fonnd himself 1050 feet above the bay. The main body of the
glaoier oconpies a vast amphitheatre with diameters ranging from thirty
to forty miles. Nine main streams of ice unite to form the grand trunk,
ooming from all directions, and no less than seventeen sub-branches were
seen coming in to join the main streams from the mountains near the rim
of the amphitheatre. Numerous rocky eminences rise above the surface
of the ice, their surfaces smoothed and scored, and glacial debris deposited
everywhere upon them, showing they have been recently covered by ice.
On the side from which the ice approached these islands, it rose like
breakers from the sea-shore, several hundred feet higher than it was on
the lee side. The lee side of these islands seemed to be the beginning of
important sub-glacial streams of water, brooks running into the de-
pression as into a funnel, and causing a backward movement of ice and
moraine. The ice in the eastern half of the amphitheatre is moving
much more slowly than in the western half. Here and there the sur-
face is interrupted by superficial streams of water, occupying narrow
ahaUow channels, running for a short distance and then plunging down
into moultns to swell the larger current. From the front there is a
constant succession of falls of ice into the water. From the measure-
ments and observations made by Mr. Wright, it would seem to follow
that a stream of ice presenting a cross section of about 3,500,000 square
feet (5000 feet wide by about 700 feet deep) is entering the inlet at an
average rate of forty feet per day, making about 140,000,000 cubic feet
per day during the month of August. The indications that the Muir
Glacier is receding, and that its volume is diminishing, are indubitable
and numerous. On the other hand, near the south-west comer of the
glacier, the streams are uncovering a forest of cedar trees in perfect
preservation, standing upright in the soil as they grew, with the humus
all about their roots.
Sources of the Mississippi. — In connection with the notice, in our last
month's issue, of Mr. Harrower's pamphlet on Captain Glazier and his
lake, it deserves notice that in tracing the history of the exploration
of the sources of the river, he altogether omits to mention the visit of
Mr. Featherstonehugh in 1835, as described in his ' Canoe-voyage on the
Minnay Soter,' what was then named the Minnesota being regarded as
the main stream of the Mississippi. Featherstonehugh spent some time
in the district, visiting Lake Travers or Pamidji, which he wrongly
thought sent its waters northwards. While wandering about the ridge,
or rather plateau, called the Coteau de Prairie, Featherstonehugh
looked down upon, but could not approach what, from his map, was
evidently Lake Itasca, which is recognised as at least the approximate
source of the river. Of course he was not the first to visit this lake,
which was seen and surveyed by Lieut. Allen in 1832,
K 2
120
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES,
German New Guiuea,^The opcniog up of Kaiser Wilhelm's Land
will l>e greatly facilitated by a journey made by Admiral von Schleiaitz
and Dr. Schrader up the Empress Augusta riven This iraj>ortant water-
way» Bituated close to tlie western border of the country under the Gorman
Protectorate, was navigated by the Admiral in the steamer Otiilie for <
a distance of 224 nailes. Further progress could not be madoj owing
to the shallowness of the river, the journey having been undertaken
during the dry season. Tho ship*s steam launch, however, proceeded
112 miles furtlier to a point situated in 4' 16' S, lat. and 141'* 50' E,
long* Judging from the quantity of water in the river, the voyage
could have been continued for another 50 miles, but fuel ran short.
For over 200 miles from its mouth the river flows through extensive
plains ; then ite course suddenly ehangeS;, and it assumes the character
of a mountain stream, forcing its w^ay through hills of gneiss, mica-
slate, and quartz, but the velocity of its current remains uniform.
Thirty miles further up, tho river again resumes its peaceful course.
The settlements on its banta were only found at long intervals. The
level plains of the country offer great facility for pasture and for the
cultivation of rice, sugar-cane, itc. Fuller details of thit* interesting
voyage will be found in part Xo. 4 of the * Naohrichten liber Kaiser
Wilhelm's Laud' (188(5>
The longest Rivers in the World* — The latest contribution on this
controversial subject is a communication made to * Petermann's Mittei-
lungen,' by Major-General A, von Tillo, of the Russian Staff* He gives in
a table, with notes, the following estimates of the eight longest rivers of
the world— (1) Missouri-Mississippi, 4104 miles; (2) Nile, 4020; (3)
Yang-tsze-Kiang,:3l58 ; (4) Amazons, 30C3 ; (5) Yenisei-Selenga, 2950 ;
(6) Amur, 2920 ; (7) Congo, 2883 ; (8) Mackenzie, 2868. He takes the
length of the Missouri -Mississippi from the ' Beport upon tho Physics and
Hydraidics of the Mississippi River,* by Captain A. S. IIumphreyH and
Lieutenant H. A. Abbot, and the measurement of the Nile from Perthes*
new map of Africa. General Tillo*8 data for the length of the AmaEona
is the map of South America, published by njin in St. Petersburg, and
prepared by General N. Kaulbara, on scale 1 : 6,300,000 ; the length being
reckoned from the source of the Maranon to the island of Bailikwe.
The length of the Yenesei-Selenga is calculated from the llussian Staff
raiip, on scale 1 : 4,200,000, of the Russian dominiona in Asia. The prin-
cipal difference l^etween the above list and that of M. C. A, v. Eloders,
published in the sixth part of the *Zeit8chrift ' of the Geographical
Society of Berlin, is the length of the Missouri-Mississippi, which the
latter gives as 3658 miles.
The British Association Committee on Geographical Education. — It
will be remembered that at the Binningham meeting of the British
AsBOciati'on, a committee was appointed ** for the purpose of co-operating
CORRESPONDENCE. 121
with the Boyal Geographical Society in endeavouring to bring before
the authorities of the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge the advisar
bility of promoting the study of geography by establishing special
chairs for the purpose." A meeting of the committee was recently held,
at which were present Mr. Yemen Harcourt and Professor Moseley from
Oxford, Professor Hughes from Cambridge, the Rev. Canon Carver, the
Eev. E. F. M. McCarthy (Birmingham), and Mr. E. G. Ravenstein. We
are happy to say that the members of the committee fully recognised
the educational value of the scientific study of geography, and are
agreed in thinking that geography should occupy a place among the
subjects of study in our national universities. They resolved to request
the Council of the Association to give their support to the representa-
tions and o£fers which have been made by the Council of the Society.
The members of the committee not present concur, we believe, in the
resolutions come to. They are Prof. A. Newton, Professor Bonney, Canon
Tristram, Rev. H. B. George, Rev. A. R. Vardy, Rev. H. W. Watson,
Captain Douglas Galton.
Aaran Oeographical Society.— Under the title of ' Femschau,' we have
received the first number of the • Jahrbuch ' of the Aarau Qeographico-
Commercial Society. It contains, among other matter, two original
papers of some interest ; one describing the visit of a Basel missionary
to Kumassi in Ashanti, in 1881, and the other a brief paper advocating
reform in geographical education, by Dr. Hermann Braunhofer.
CORRESPONDENCK
On the Teaching of Geoffraphy.
Hayikq lately read with very great interest the Educational Eeport of the Koyal
Geographical Society, 1 am inclined to think that a few remarks by one who has
had considerable experience in teaching this subject may not be unwelcome. My
remarks will apply principally to provincial grammar schools and others of that
standard.
First, as to the faults to be found in the present system. I consider the greatest
of these to be the too great importance attached to what is usually called political
geography, which, in reality, is nothing but the learning by heart of the positions
of a great number of towns, the larger proportion of which are of very little general
interest, and those things for which they are celebrated, the most worthless trash
often being included in this latter category. No reason is ever given for the accumu-
lation of towns in certain districts, or for the greater richness and prosperity of one
town more than another, matters which are generally within the comprehension of
any child.
Then, a^in, the physical features of a country, on which everything else
depends, and which are therefore the most important, are really scarcely touched on
atalL The more conspicuous headlands, inlets, mountains, and rivers are just
mentioned, and no general idea of the lie of the land or of the nature of the surface
soil is given. The description of perhaps the most important factor of all— rclimate —
CORRESPONDENCE.
i« given in a few big-sou Bxling words beyond Uie comprelicnsion of most cliildren>
and 110 ruGDtioQ is made of tbo why or wherefore, which is just what the childkh
mind is constaotly inquiring after.
But perhnpH the greate»t fault of all in the modem system h leRrning by heart
all tbat is in the usually very bad text-book without the doe use of the atlas. Most
teachers will probably tell their pupils to refer constaotly to the atlas, but how
many pupiis do so refer to it? UnJess the lesson is prepared under keen superviaion
I fear in the majority of caaea the atlas is never looked at. And why? Simply
because the [>upil does not know how to read a map, and it therefore becomes a very
uninteresting object to him. And very naturally so. We could none of us feel
interested in a book placed liefore ns if it were written in an unintelligible language,
! think it would be a very good thing if, in the caee of younger children, tlio text-
Ixjok were abolished altogether, and they were taught solely by lectures, or rather
talks.
I would in every case li>egtn with a course of physical geography, together with
a certain amount of mathemalical, explaining everything by references to phenomena
of local occurrence, so far as is possible. The physical geography should be largely
illustrated by experiments, the simpler and more homely the better, and it would
be a very good thing to give a few lessons in physics, illustrating the general pro-
sier tics of solids, liquids, and gases**
Instea*] of large and expensive wall-maps, generally of a very inferior description,
outline maps, drawn on the blackboard and filkd in as the lesson proceeds, would
be better. If it is object^jd to this, that it takes up too much of the teacher's time
in drawing ati outline before those lessons in which the outline is not treated of can
start — then have perm^mcnt outlines drawn in |>aint on American cloth. These can
be rolled up, and then occupy little space when put away. The clotli takes chalk
exceedingly well. With this and a supply of coloured chalks much really valuable
work can be done st very little cost. As the teacher goes from one subject to
another, the pupil can follow, filling in a blank map on i^aper placed before him* It
will keep him attentive and interested from beginning to end, and the lesion will he
a source of pleasure to teacher and pupil alike — at least, so I have found it, I should
Ktart first wnth the outline, and fill in the mountains and rivers, not forgetting to
draw sections in various directions across the country. Then take the meteorology,
next the forest, arable, pasture, and waste lands, and the distribution of minerals.
Finally, the distribution of industries, bringing in the most important towns,
followed by the ethnology and political divisions.
In tlie next place there ought to be large numbers of pictures. If the class is
large the lantern should be used, but if small, woodcuts and photographs would do*
In this province I think the Society might do most useful work by publishing illns-
trations typical of the scenery, inhabitants, animals, and plants of various districts,
and if in addition actual specimens of the products could be obtained » it would
indeed be teaching in clover. At present it is only possiblo tooblai^n illustrationa
from a vast number of books, and these have then to be photographed, or copied in
son>e other way, if a permanent coilectlon is desiroii, and the cost becomes consider-
able even when the teacher can copy them himself. Where space can be procured a
room ought to be set apart for these collections* In large towns specimens might
13erhai>8 to a large extent be lx>rrowed from the local musoums.
I am inclined to think that it is a national disgraco that we have not a museum,
I
* I should, if the Society thought fit^ be glad to communicate a series of papers on
Pliysicfl and Chemistry as applied to Geography, using in all cases the simplest possiblo
appaiatufl.
OBITUARY. 123
or even a department of one, entirely devoted to geography, in which models, maps,
aectionf, photographs, and specimens are all exhibited under the hesuSis of their own
particalar districts. If such could be formed — ^and ours certainly ought to be the
aation to do it, considering we have colonies and settlements in every quarter of
the globe — it would vastly further the cause of geographical education.
With r^ard to mathematical geography, so-called, it is usually taught in a
most slipshod manner, and I believe there is a generally prevailing impression that
it is too hard for children of nine and ten. My experience shows me that it is per-
fectly possible— even with no apparatus except a rough home-made blank globe — to
get them to understand latitude and longitude, the seasons, and phenomena of day
and night thoroughly. Then map projections can generally be explained by the aid
of diagrams. As to the correct reading of a map — so far as the parallels and
meridians go— why should the pupil not be made to draw a map on a blank projec-
tion from a copy made on another? He certainly ought to fix the position of places
accurately on a blank map when only the latitude and longitude are given.
In conclusion, it seems to me a great pity that geography, as a school subject, is
not taught as a science by the science master, rather than by classical men, who
larely have any aptitude for the work, except perhaps willingness. It must bo
g^erally admitted that physical geography, or physiography, dealing as it does
with all those natural phenomena which come most generally under everyday
observation, is well calculated to develope the observing and thinking faculties of
the youthful mind, much more so than the very meagre smattering of chemistry
or physics which a boy or girl generally acquires at school, and therefore let it be
the child's first introduction to the study of nature.
W. Hheam, B.80.,
University College, Liverpool, late Assistant Master in Queen Elizabeth's
January 18th. Grammar School^ Wimbame,
Sir T. Donglas Forsyth, KC.S.I., C.B.*— The late Sir Thomas Douglas
Forsyth, whose recent death, at the age of fifty-nine, has been deeply felt and deplored
bjavery wide circle of relatives and friends, and who was so well known as a distin-
guished member of the Civil Service in India, whom we shall speak of in this brief
memoir as Sir Douglas, was bom at Birkenhead in 1827 — the tenth child and third
son of his parents. He went to Sherborne School, in Dorsetshire, where he remained
only a short time, and then proceeded to Rugby, of which school Dr. Arnold was
Head Master, succeeded soon afterwards by Dr. Tait, who became Archbishop of
Canterbury, and under whose tuition Sir Douglas remained until he went to
Haileybury College, having obtained a writership in the Bengal Presidency from
Mr. Lyall, formerly M.P. for London. The Principal of Haileybury College was
the late Bev. William Melvill, and here he greatly distinguished himself, gaining
five gold medals for proficiency in Oriental languages and law. In 1848 he sailed
for India, and at Fort William College, in Calcutta, he obtained a gold medal and
three prizes for " high proficiency." About this time the Punjab, after the second
Sikh war, was annexed to British India, and Sir Douglas was appointed
Assistant Magistrate at Saharunpore, and next year Joint Magistrate and Deputy
Collector at Simla. In 1851 he was Assistant Commissioner of Kangra, and in
By W. Forsyth, Esq., Q.O., LL.D.
124
OBIT[rARY.
1856 Deputy Commissi oner of Ufiiballa{ the Commissioner being tlie kt« Mr, George
Baines), when the mutiny broke out. While holding these various apiKJintroents,
hlagi-eat ability and devotion to duty gained bira the full confidence and approval
of hia EUiieriorp, and no one of the young civil servants gave brighter promise of an
eminent career. Nothing couM exceed the enei^y and courage shown by him at
the momentous crisis of the mutiny. He called upon the Maharaja of Puttiala to
assist us, and secured bis loyalty to the British side^ which example was followed
by the adhesjon of the Kajas of Jheend aod Nabba. The chief duly that devolved
upon him waa to provide the means of transport for the troops on their march to
Delhi, then held by the rebels and besieged by ua, and to his active exertions it
"Was greatly owing that the Punjab regiments were able to accomplish their difficult
march. He raised a police force for the defence of Umballa, and protected the road
leading from that place to KumanL
In 1858 he was promoted to the office of flecretary to Sir Robert Montgomery,
the Chief Commissicmer of Oudh, and a warm and affectionate friendship grew up
between them w^hich lasted until the end of his life. We may mention that one of
bis daughters married a son of Sir Robert, who had the highest appreciation of his
cbamcter and ability, and frequently sought his advice, which he always found to
be wise and judicious^ In 1860 he became Officiating Commissioner in the Punjab,
and received the order of C.B, for his services in the mutiuy. In 1863 he was ^
Commissioner of Lahore^ and in 1865 Commissioner of Julluudur, H
Having in 1869 come to England on furlough, a signal proof was given of the
confidence reposed in his judgment and thorough knowledge of Indian politics, by
his being entrusted by Lord Clarendon with the responsible duty of going on a
mission to Russia for the purpose of coming to an understanding with the Russian
Government on the vexed question of the north- western frontier of Afghanistan, so
as to define it, and thus afford no pretext for Ru8s:an aggression in that quarter.
He proceeded to Russia by way of Constantinople, and had several interviews with
Prince GortchakofiT, and one with the Emperor Alexander \L He received the most
distinct aud pobitive assurances on these occasions that the Russian Government
acknowledged the frontier pin ted out by him to be the true boundary ^ and a
declaration that there was no intention on the part of Russia to disturb it. More-
over, that Afghanistan was considered to be out of the sphere of Russia's policy.
It was the strong opinion of Sir Douglas, and we believe that he repeatedly gave the
advice, that a boundary line should then be drawn and formally accepted by Russia,,
which, if done, would have obviated subsequent misunderstandings and conduct on
the part of Russia which recently brought us to the brink of war with that country.
He had always a rooted distrust of the policy and good faith of Russia, and thought
that the only course to be adopted towards that power was to say to her, " Tbus
far shait thou go and no farther, or the alternative is war.**
Sir Dougbs had always taken a warm interest in the question of trade between
India and Central Asia^ and as one proof of this we may mention that the village of
Palampore, in tho Kangra Valley, was created by him to facilitate the- transi^ort
of merchandise between the two countries.
After his return to India, and while he was Commiasioner of Umballa, a serious
disturbance broke out at Kouka in his district, which he with great promptitude and
energy suppressed. Several executions took place, by the order of the Deputy Com-
missioner, in the absence of Sir Douglas at Delhi, and he approved of his conduct.
For this he was censured by Lord Napier aud Ettrick, theu acting provisionally as
Governor-General, but it was subsequently acknowledged that his action was right,
and it is generally admitted that he had saved the Punjab from what might havo
been a very grave disaster.
OBITtTART.
125
^
^
Iq 1870 he was selected by the Governor-General, Lord Mayo, to coEduct a
mission to Kashgaria, then an almost unkuown region, and previously visited by
only one EngiishmaOp Mr. Shaw. The ruler of the conotry was the Eoiir Yakoob
Beg, otherwise known by the name of the Atalik Ghazi, and the object of the
mifision was to negotiate a treaty of commerce between India and his territory.
The access to Kashgaria was very difficult, owing to the chain of lofty mountains
that intervene, some of them attaining the altitude of 18,000 feet, and the whole of
the complicated arrangements for the journey devolved upon him. Unfortunately,
the Emirwaa absent on an expedition, and as the instructions of Sir Douglaa
required him to return to Indiii before the commencement of the winter, he was
unable to obtain an interview, so that on this occasion the mission was abortive.
Id 1872 Sir Douglas was tnuiBferred to Oudh, and became Conimissioner of
Fyzabad, and next year. Lord Mayo having determined to seud a second misdon to
KashgariJi, was appointed Envoy, and this time he was more suocessfuh He stayed
£ome time at Yarkand and Kasbgar, and had eeverai meetings with the Emir, discus-
sing with Mm not only the terms of a treaty of commerce, hut also the nature of the
reUtiona between Russia and Kashgaria, which seemed threatened with the possi-
bility of Russian aggression. A report of this mission was printed in a bulky
volume, which contains a large mass of useful information on the |jolitics, natural
history, and condition of Eastern Turkistan. Kext year Sir Douglas was mode a
K-C.S.L, an honour conferred u|ion him by the express desire of Her Majesty,
ilthough the number of the members of the order was then complete, and there w*as
no actual vacancy.
He was appointed additional member of the Lep;islfttive Council of India, and
in 1876 was sent to Burma by Lord Nortlibrook as envoy to settle a question of
disputed boundary, which he successfully accompliBhed, having an audience of the
King at Mandalay.
isext year, 1876, he resigned the Indian service, and came to England, where
he resided until his death, occupying himself by taking a prominent part in the
diiection of several Indian railways. He was director of the East India and Sclnde
and Punjab Railways and chairman of the Southern Mahralta and the West of
India Portuguese Guaranteed Railway Companies, the formation of which was
mainly due to his exertions. He also became Member of Council of the Royal
Geographical Society, and took a warm interest In its proceedings, having by his
extensive travels — in which he had visited Cbina and Japan, and crossed the
American Continent— made himself acquainted with tiie chief parts of the globe.
He was also much interested in the promotion of tea cultivation in India, and while
in England took an active jmrt in the direction of two tea companies, whoso property
is situated in the Kangra Valley.
Sir Douglas had the art of winning the attachment of the natives of India in
an extraordinary degree. He was endtared to them by his uniform courtesy and
kindness, and he was alwHys anxious to me them ailvanced to [x>.its which they
were fitted to fill He was emphatically their friend, and they knew it, A striking
proof of their feeling towards him was shown on the occasion of a visit he paid to
India three years ago, accompanied by his elder brother. When in the districts of
the Punjab which had been under his authority great numbers of natives came
from distant parts to welcome him, and testified in the most unmistakable manuer
the affection wnth which his memory was treasured in their hearts. He w^as
iode^ one of the roost generous and unselfish of men, and never so happy as when
he had the opportunity of doing acts of kindness to others. As was truly said
in one of the very numerous letters received on his death, he was ** tbe ideal of
an English gentleman."^
126
REPORT OF THE EVEKIKO MEETINGS.
He married Alice, daughter of the kte Mr, Thomas Ball Plumer, of Cauoui '
Park, and graDddaugbter of Sir Thomas Flnmer, Master of the Rolls, and has lofl
hifl widow and three daughters to mourn his loss.
Captain C. George, E.lf . — Tlic former well-known and universally esteemed
Caratur of the Map Department of our Society, SiaflT-Commaoder ChriBtoplier
George, died on the 2nd of January, at tlie age of 77 ye^irs. He was in the
Society's service for a period of 20 years, namely, from Juno 18GT to Juno 1877,
at which latter date he resigned, owing to the fftiiure of his eyesight, an infirmity
which was quickly followed by nearly total blindnesij. In his earlier life Captain
George had seen much active service in the Navy, chiefly in the scientific branch.
Ho was born at Limehouse on the 14th September, 180D, and entered the Navy as
Beooiid-clas.H volunteer in January, 1828, From master^s assiatant on* the Britomart
(1828 to 1S30), the Savage and Ntmrod (1831 to 1835), and the Sulphur (to 1837),
he rose to be second master in the SuljJtur (1837-1842), and Fisgard (1842-^),
acting-master and master in the Tarturm (1843-1846), and senior assistant-sur-
veyor on the Fkgard (1846-1854). As naval surveyor during the last 19 years of
his service he was engaged successively under Captains Deecbey, Kellett, CoHiuson,
and Sir Edward Belcher, on the west coast of America, among the islands of the
Pacific, and od the coast of China, and afterwards on the south-west coast of IrelancL
During the whole term of his service, 2G years 4 months, he was only 10 months
without a ship, that interval being in the first seven years. He obtained the rank
of conmiissioned officer in Noveml)er 1843. In the China war of 1841, be waa
in action at the taking of the forts on the Canton river up to the city of Canton,
surveying in advance for the fleet to proceed, and 0|>erating with the Naval Brigade,
with the troops in rear of the city. For this service he received the China sOver
medalon842.
Captain George invented tbe spiral cord method of filling the mercurial baro-
meter, and two instrunjents now bearing his name, viz. the double sextant and the
artificial horizon. For these he received a medal at tbe International Geographical
Congress of Paris, 1875. His knowledge and skill as a surveyor and mapper were
employed, whilst connected with our Society, in computing the observations of
travellers, and in instructing them prior to their undertaking their explorationa.
Amongst bis pupils were some of our most re u owned travellers, including Du
Chaillu (for bis second journey), Thomas Baines, Captain Burton, and Sir C. Baker.
KEPOET OF THE E\\ENIN(} MEETINGS, SESSION 1886-7.
Fmrtk Meeting, Januartf llthj, 1887. — General E. Stracuey, r.e., f,r.s,,
Vice-PreBident, in the Cbain
Elkctions. — Edward C. Admna^ Esq. ; IhiiTy Akxander, Esq.^ b.a. ; Geo, H.
Biirday, E&q. ; AJfrtd IL Burton^ Esq. ; Vhas, Chewings^ E$q, ; Jas, (/, Fraz€i\
Enq,; J as. EodoJph Gl&ver, E$q, ; Fhilip IL GrahamyEsq,; Jiohert Kilpatrick,
Esq. ; Willmm Martin , E^, ; M, II, M, I\ de la MurHuikre ; T. W. MouUon,
Esq, ; Major Wm. Nort&n P^rsse^ E*A. ; D* Macdonald Mohertson'MacdojiaM, £iy, ;
LieuL Waiier Ileniy Simpson {Bengal Staff Corps); Edward Stall iifrasaf Esq.;
Ilmis Sloane Stanley^ E»q* ; CUnUm Brazil van Tuyl^ Esq,
Thb Emin Pasha Belief Expedition,
Previous to the reading of the paper, the Chaikman announced that tbe Council
of the Society bad thai day passed the following Resolution ; —
" An expedition to be conducted by Mr. H, M. Stanley having been organised for
PROCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES. 127
the relief of Emin Pasha, under the coDtrol of a Committee formed in London, and
the Council of the Royal Geographical Society being satisfied that valuable new
geographical data are likely to be obtained by whichever route the expedition pro-
ceeds, resolves that a grant of lOOOZ. be made to the managing committee of the
expedition with a view to that sum being applied in aid of the geographical explora-
tion of the country to be traversed, and in hope that the results of the exploration
may be communicated for publication by the Society/
The Chaibmak added that he hoped the Resolution would receive the approba-
tion of the members. The announcement was received with applause by the
meeting.
Sir Rawson Rawson mentioned Ihat he had just learnt from Mr. Stanley that
be proposed to start for Egypt and Zanzibar on Friday, the 2l8t.
The following paper was then read : —
•* Explorations in South- Elastem New Guinea," By the Rev. J. Chalmers. See
ante, p. 71.
PEOCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES.
C^graphical Society of Paris. — December 3rd, 1886 : M. A. Germain in the
chair. — A communication was read by the Secretary from the Commercial Geo-
graphical Society of Havre, with reference to the appointment of a Permanent
Commission to carry into eSact the resolutions of the Annual Congress of the Geo-
graphical Societies of Frauce ; the opinion of the Society was invited as to the scope
and composition of this committee. — A letter was read from M. Ch. Toret confirming
the conclusions of Comte de Bellanger, announced at the last meeting, upon the pre-
cise locality of Tavernier's grave. — M. Hangsen Blangsted informed the Society
that the delegates appointed by the governments of Sweden and Denmark to
advise upon the proposed submarine tunnel between the island of Zealand and
Sweden, had issued a report unfavourable to the scheme. — A letter dated 30th August
was read from Vicomte E. de la Panouse, giving a short account of his travels in
SSouth Africa. Since 1882, he had traversed the country between the Cape of Good
Ilope and the Zambesi, but being unprovided with astronomical instruments he had
be^ unable to take observations for verifying existing maps. He was then to the
north of the Zambesi, and it was his intention to proceed to Lake Bangweolo, de-
scend the Loangwe to Zumbo, and then crossing the Zambesi to make his way to
Mangwe, a village about 200 miles east of the Falls. He would return to Tete through
the country of the Mashonas. He requested the Society to lend him the necessary
instruments for taking observations. He was defraying the cost of his journey by
elephant hunting. — M. H. Duveyrier called the attention of the Society to an ex-
cellent map of the Freuch possessions in Senegal, which was exhibited in the halL
This map had, he said, been carefully prepared by Captain Monteil, and embodied
all the results of the most recent explorations in the country. — M. Germond de
Lavigne gave an account of the excursion recently made by him through Portugal
to Cape Vincent and Cape Sagres. An interesting resum^ of his mission to Iceland
was given by Dr. Henry Labonne.* — The General Secretary then read a letter dated
2l8t October, 1886, from Dr. Neis, who wrote from the hospital of HanoL His party
bad sufiered from the attacks of pirates, and also from political complications which
had only recently been solved. However he had succeeded in collecting a large
amount of valuable geographical information regarding the district between the Black
• * Proceedings B.G.S.,' 1887, p. 52.
128
PROCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES.
River ap<l tlio Mekong. He int<?nded to rest fcr some weeks before rccorameDcing
the wioter campaiga on the froii tiers of the two Kuaags. — la cooclusioQ the Chair-
man announced that the Second General Meeting of the year, to be held on the 17th
Deeember, would be presided orer bj M. Ferd. de Lessepa, who would also take the
chair at the Annual Banquet
—December 17th, 1886 : M. Ferdinand de Lebseps, President of the
Society, in the Chair* — This waa the second General Meeting of the year. After
the Chairman^d opening remarks, M. Maunoir, the General Secretary, read aome
extracts from hiB Annual Eeport, on the operations of the Society, and on the
progreaa of geography during the year. The Report will be published as usual in
the Quarterly Bulletin of the Society. — The Chairman then called upon M, D^ir^
Charnay to read a paper on his miaaioa in Yucatan, with which he had been charged
by the Minister of Public Instmctioa, This was, M. Charnay said, his fourth
voyage to the peninsula. He had again visited the town of Izamal to search for the
bas-reliefs mentioned by Lauda the historian, as existing on the base of certain
pyramids. He had discovered a few, and also eome wall paintings, which gave him
the key to the decorative style of the ancient mhabitants< He had been prevented
from visiting an Indian villsge called Kol>a, in consequence of a raid through the
country by this savage tribe ; but he had found to the north of Valladulid an Indian
towu, hitherto unknown, named Ek-balam, or *' the Black Tiger," which also belonged
to the third epoch of Toltec civilisation. He made some interesting archieological
discoveries at this place and aho at an old Maya cemeiery in the island of Taina,
about 24 milea north of Campeche, on the other side of the peninsula. The Chair-
man after thanking M. Charnay for his intereBiing paper, and referring to the award
of the Logerot prizo made to him two years ago by the Society, stated that the
Central Commission had just decided that M. Charnay should be the first travelier
to benefit by the Poirier bequest, which, it would be remembered, was to be given to
travellers of French origin, whose travels and works were considered to be most
valuable to science and commerce. — M.de Lesseps presented an album of photographs
representing the present state of the works of the Panama Canal,
GaoprapMcaL Society of Berlin* — January 8th, 1887 : Herr W, Reibs in
the chair,— The Chairman, at the commencement of the meeting, gave an account
of the prograas of I he Society during 1886, Nineteen paj>or3 by travellers had been
read at ten meetings, of which ten papers related to Africa, sir to Asia, and three to
South America. The number of ordinary members iLcreased from S*4r> to 976. The
library reccivetl the addition of 456 volumes, the map collection 68 sheets of maps.
The Council have decided on printing a catalogue of the library, and it will appear
in the course of 1888. For the proposed monument at Cape Palm as to Dr, Nachtigal^
the amount of 11,347 marks had been subscribed in consequence of the appeal of the
German Geographical Societies ; but as this sum is inaufliclenti a fresh appeal would
shortly be made. — Dr. van Bijckevorsel of Rotterdam, who in 1874-1877 travelled
through the East Indian Archipelago to study the magnetic phenomena of the
region, and afterwards (in 1881-1884) travelled in North-eastern Brazil with the
same object, determining the magnetic elements at 135 isointa from Para to Rio
Janeiro, read a paper on his journey in Sumatra, He travelled from Bencoolen vi4
Taba Penandjung to Kepajaog, crossing with a caravan of porters the extraordinarily
rugged and volcanically-disturbed Barisan mountains. The river- valleys in thia
region are very deep, and form in places, otherwise level, deep gorges with very steep
escarpments. From Tebing Tinggi the traveller passed in a travelling car through
a barren district of bamboo wooils to Muara Bliti ou the Klingi. Here a raft was
built, and on this the Klingi and afterwards the Musi were navigated, Palembang
I
MEW GS06RAPH1CAL PUBUGATIOMS. 129
bemg reached after a journey of three weeks. Tho popalatioii of Palembaog is upon
the whole mach more indastrious and active than the rest of the Sumatra people.
A great obstacle to the rapid dcTelopment of the island is the slow increase of
popalationy which in this respect offers a strong contrast to Java, which since the
Datch OMiqnest has increased to nearly 30 million sonls. One cause of the small
increase in Sumatra is the circumstance that wives must be bought and are very
dear, many men in consequence remaining single. The immorality of the people,
besides, is very great, and abortion is elevated into a science.— Staff-Surgeon Dr.
Wolf, member of the Wissmann Kasai expedition, gave the meeting an account of
his travels and discoveries in the Southern Congo Basin. From Makenge, the chief
town of the Baluba kingdom, he visited the Bakete tribe living more northerly on
the Lulua, and the Bakuba, who dwell between the Sankuru and the Lulua, being
the first European who has reached those regions. Returning thence to Luluaburg,
Dr. Wolf took part in the exploration of the Kasai, and returned then alone from
Stanley Pool to Mukenge. From here he undertook, with the help of the steamer
En Avant, lent to him by the Congo State, the exploration of the Sankuru and
Lomami, from which journey he returned in July 1886 to the mouth of the Congo.
NEW GEOGRAPfflOAL PUBLICATIONS.
(By J. SooiT Keltie, Ltbrartan r.o.s.)
EUROPE.
Ben Vonke-Vordhavs Expedition 1876-1878. — [The Norwegian North-
Atlantic Expedition 1876-1878.] XVI. Zoologi. Mollusca. II, Ved Her-
man Friele. Christiania, Gr^ndahl & S^na, 1886 : imp. 4to., pp. 44, 6 plates.
[Presented hy the Editorial Committee of the Norwegian North-Atlantic Ex-
pedition.]
Du Fief [J.]— La Density de la Population en Belgique et dans les autres Pays du
Monde. Bruxelles, Vanderauwera, 1887 : 8vo., pp. 53. [Presented by the Author.]
This a useful iuTestigation on the density of the population of Belgium
with special reference to the means of subsistence. The author does not seem
to think that at present there is any reason to be alarmed at the increase of the
population. He gives comparative statistics of the population of other countries
from the same point of view.
[Geographical lIemoirs.>-Die Vergletscherang des Salzachgebietes, nebst
Beobachtungen ttber die Eiszeit in der Schweiz. Von Dr. Eduard Briickner. —
Orometrie des Schwarzwaldes. Von Dr. Ludwig Neumann. — Hefte 1 and 2
of Geographische Abhandlungen, herausgegebon von Prof. Dr. Albrecht Penck
in Wien. Wien, Eduard Holzel, 1886 : 8vo., Heft 1, pp. x. and 183; Heft 2,
pp. 185-238. Price 20s. per vol. of 30 sheets with supplements. [Presented by
Professor Penck.]
These two first parts of this new geographical serial publication bear out the
promise of the prospectus, already referred to in the • Proceedings,' and are
creditable to the enterprise of tho publisher. It is not meant as a rival to any
existing serial, but as a means of giving to the world memoirs in scienti6c geo-
graphy which it would be difficult to find a place for in any existing medium.
Both memoirs are good examples of exhaustive studies in local geography.
The particular region investigated by Dr. Briickner is the south-east borderland
of Bavaria and Austria, with Salzburg as the centre. He has worked out every
trace of the efifects of past glaciation on the geographical features of the region,
and in the concluding chapter deals with the LaKe of Geneva and its former
I3d
NEW GEOGRAPIIJCAL PUBLlCAf lOXS.
extension, and with the ioe-period on the northern s\o\ye9 of the Alps. The
second memoir, by Dr. Newmann, is as thorough a study of the orometry of the
Black Forest as is Dr. BnicknerB of the Sahhtirj: re;;iun* Both are fully
illustrated with maps and diagrams, and may be tAken as good examples of the
valuable and instructive results to be obtained by thorough and competent
research in local gecgraphy*
[SwitzeiflaEd'] — A Handbook for Travellers m Switzerland, the Alps of Savoy
and PicdQiont, the Italian Lakes, and part of Daupbine. 17th edition, revised.
London, Murray, 1886 : two vols. 8vo. j vol. i. pp. Ixxxviii. and 295, vol ii.
pp. 297-5G9. Price lOs.
This new edition has been brought up to date as far as possible with regarti
to railways, population of towns, inns, and general information, from personal
knowledge, the best Swiss atuhoriiies, and the notes with which the editor has
been favoured by traTellers.
ASIA.
[Illdi&,]^Tho Dawn of British Trade to the East Indies, as recorded in the Court
Minutes of the East India Company, 1599-1G03 ; containing an account of the
furaiation of the Cbmi>aDy, the Firat Adventure, and Way mouth's Voyage in
search of the Korth-west Passage* Now first printed from the origiual manuscript,
by Henry Stevena, of Ycrmont, with an Introduction by Sir George Birdwood, kt.
CBj., M.D, Henry Stevens and Son, London, 1886 : 8vo., pp. xxiv, and 331.
Price 21s, [Presented by the Publishers.]
The late Mr. Henry Stevens did excellent service in reproducing, at great
ex|)ense, these records of our earliest commercial connectli.>n with India. Tiie
original manuscript had found its way to the Public Record Office, where it fell
nnder the notice of Mr. Stevens. He had it most carefully copied, a task of
great difticulty, owing to the decayed state of some of the itianuscript, aud the
difficulty of deciphering some of the writing* The ret^ult is whnt may be
regarded as an absolutely faithful copy of these curious records, with all their
interlineations and obliterations. For anyone desirous of tmcing the history of
our connections with India, the volume will be of great value. To the geo-
grapher, the records connected with Way month's first abortive voyage in search
of a North'West Passage, the preliminary meetings of the committee, the outfit
of the vessels, and the evidence taken as to the results, will be of interest. True,
a good deal of this has already appeared in the lilth volume of the Ilakluyt
i5ociety*s publications. Sir George Bixdwood's introduction is interesting;
while Mr. Henry N, Stevens has supplied a most copious index.
Izvestiya Yostotchno-Sibirskago Otdiela Imperatorskago Ilusskago Geographiches-
kago Obshestva. Tom. xvi., Nos. 4-5. Irkutsk, 1887 i pp. 196.
This number of the proceedings of the East SilKrian Section of the Husaian
Geogra|ihic.il Society is almost wholly taken up with the affairs of the Section,
its tiDances, [>rotocols of meetings, &c., &c. There is a letter from M. D. Butiii
to Count Ignatiefl' on the subjc>ct of the projxjsed canal to unite the Ob and
Yenisei, some particnlars uf Dr. Bunjie's expedition, and a report by MM.
Vagin and Bobrovnikoflf on the statistical work to be undertaken in Easterjs
Siberia, It is pointed out that there is a great want of agricultural statistics
for this i^art of the Empire, whureos European Kussia has been thoroughly
surveyed in this sense.— [E. D, H.]
Bein [Professor J* J,]— Jajvan nach Reisen und Studien, im Auftrage der K.
PreussiBchcn Eegienmg dargestellt, 2tes Band, Land- uud Forstwirtschaft,.
Industrie und Handel. Leipzig: Engelmann, 1886. [Presented by the Author.]
The readers of the first volume of Dr. Rein's very careful study of Japan in
its various aspects will welcome the conclusion of the work. The i I lustra tionti-
to the present volume are specially note worthy for their tmth and beauty.
Upwards of 300 pages of this volume are devoted to forestry and agriculture.
■
I
I
KEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
131
ftnd the information thua collected, carefully arranged and bronght up to date,
will be foimd of great service to students desirous of study log man and his
enTirontnent in Japan, A chapter is devoted to the mineral industry of the
cocmtry, in which Dr. Hein dispels some erroDeoiis eoDceptioos as to the mineral
wealth of Japan. Some 200 {tages deal with the art manufactures of Japan and
the industries connected therewith, and it ia to this section that we fiod the
numerous remarkahle illustrations refened to. The leading industrieB treated
of are those in wood, in lacquer, iu tex^tiles, paper, motalsj cemmic, and enamcL
The fourth chapter deals with trade and oommcrce, and appended is a series of
eight extremely useful statistical tables. The whole work does Dr. Rein the
highest credit, and it is to be hoped that the second volume, like its predecessor^
will be translated into English.
Siberien, Geographische, ethnographischeund historische Studien von N, ladrinzew,
Mit BewilUgung des Verfaijsers nach dem Russischen bearbeitet nnd vervollstiindigt
von Dr. Ed, Petri, Jena, 1886 ; pp. zviii, and 589, with twelve plates,
Siberia, says Dr. Petri in his preface, ia a land of the future. Prejudices
which have hitherto misled people concertiiug it must disappear before the light
which science can throw over tins Eireat north land, destined to fell a great part
in the world— the border land of European Russin, Ct^ntial Aaia, China, Cort-a^
ind Japan. To the worthy object of removing some of the ignorance j^revailing
in Western Europe about Siberia, M. Nicholai YadrintBelf, a native of Siberia,
fired with a noble ambition and a real love of hm country, lias devoted himself.
l*he present writer remembers with pleasure an evening spent in his society at
Omsk, in 1880, when the subjecta discussed were those contained in the work
before us.
Our author begins with a study of the Siberian of tbe present day and the
changes produced in the original Slav type, by different conditions of life in the
new country beyond the Urals (chaps. I and 2) ; this is followed by a treatise
on the sad fate and present posilioQ of the natives (Chaps. 3 and 4). From
theae weighty ethnographical problems, the author turns to the consideration of
actual questions of the day : emigration (chap. 5), deportation (Chap. 6), and
the general economic status of SiWia (Chaps. 7 and 8). The section on the
ftdministmlion of Siberia (Chap. 9), and the lunging of the Siberian for a higher
culture (Chap. 10), besides fiup[ilyiag valuable historical material, enables uh to
form some idea of the future of the country, to which a special chapter (11)
is devoted. Some statistical tables conclude M. Yadrintseff*8 ivork. Tho
original work apiMiare<l in Russian in 1882, and Dr. Petri, professor of geography
ana anthropology at the University of Bern, has translated and brought it up to
date by interpolating the text a«id adding notes, besides an entirely new chapter
(12). De has also, out of regard for his European reader, abridgeid parts of the
text, and omitted details, especially in Chapter 10, where the history of the
Univereity question has been compressed into a few pages, and the whole section
on modem culture has been recast. With reference to these and other alterations
Dr. Petri has availed himself of the opixjrtuoity afforded of close, friendly
intercourse with M. Yadnntseff, during a visit jwid by him to Switzerland,
M, Yadrintseff has not only given the results of his own observations, hut
has strengthened his case for the urgent need of reforms in the adminiBtmtion
of Siberia, by numerous quofations from other authorities both past and present,
whose works, owing to their being written in Russian, are more or less iDacces-
slble to the European public. It is irnpossible, wif kin the limittKl ajmce allotted
lo these noticoj*, to give more than a bare outline of M. YadrintsefTs book, which
must take its place among standard works on Siberia, or to do justice to the
sound judgment shown by Dr. Petri in his notea and additious. It would be
impossible to give extracts where so much calls for notice.-^[E. D- MJ
WiIIb, C. J, — Persia As It Is. Being Sketches of Modem Persian Life and Cha-
racter. London, Sampson Low Sc Co., 1886 : 8vo., pp. xix, and 32G. Price 85. 6d,
[Presented by the Publishers.]
work.
This volume may be regarded as a supplement to the Author*g previous
k, 'The Land of tho Lion and Sunj or Modem Persia/ published m 1883.
183 KEW GEOORAPHICAL PtJBLICATIONS.
Dr. Wills went out to Persia as a medicftl officer of H.M.'s Telegraph Depart-
ment In Persia, and resided for fifteen yeArs, 1866-1881, in varioua part 8 of tlie
country, during which time he had exceptional opportunitieB affonltfd him for
Btndyingt Persian life and character. The present vokime abounds with inter-
esting sketches of the people m their various ^ihasea of life, some of which
have already appeared in Tm If'orW, the SL Jamfs's Gazette, and 77te Globe,
&a 'llie following chapter-headings will indicate a few of the aubjects treated
of: — ^I'he Shah of Persia; the ilagistrate in Persia; Marriage; Dervishes;
Persian Art and Artists; Judicial Punishments; the Great Fast of Kamazan ;
the Annual Persit^n Religious Drama ; the Taziyiih ; in a Bazaar ; the Jews in
Persia; Persian Horses; the Engliahraan in Per^iia; Progress in Persia in
1886*
Zapiaki Yostochno^Sibirskago Otdl^a Irapcratorskago Eusskago Geographicheskago
Obahestya. Tom. xiL Irkutsk, 188G : pp. xxix« and 405, five plates of
geological sections.
The w^holc of this volume of the Zapiffki of the East Siberinn section of the
Bussian Geographical Society is devoted to the first part of a detailed geolojjical
study of Lake Baikal, by J. D* Chersky, Lake Baikal the ** Holy Sea'* of the local
Bussian inhahitantsi, the Dalai or Dalai'nor of the Buriats, is the largest alpine
lake in the world, and the largest sweet-water basin of Asia, Its area, 12,441
English square miles, may be connpared with the great lakes of North America
and Africa, while its majcimum depth, 4504 feet» exceeds that of Lake Superior,
the deepest of the encloeed lacustrine basiua of the New World. Besides tbe^e
claims to be treated as a special subject of study, Lake Baikal presents phenomena
of recent active vulcanicily ; earthquakes are to this day of frequent occurrence oa
its shores^ snd a stream of lava which has issued from one of the extinct craters
situated in the neigh bourhood> has a length of not less than twelve miles (Rectus,
' Nouvelle G^ographie Univeraelle— Asie Russe; p. 732). The first results of
M.Chersky's survey 8,cont in ued from 1877 to 1881, were published in the Ifvestit/a
of the Ea«t Siberian section. His collections were mostly destroyed by the
great fire of Irkutsk, in 1878, but his observations now appearing in detail can-
not fail ti> be of interest. They show that tbe whole of the Traas-Baikalian
and Maritime ranges are mainly composed of Laurentian rocks; while the
Onotsk range, raised in tbe period immediately preceding the Jurassic, is formed
of Pal«;oaoic deposits, which also fill the rifts in the Maritime range, and dip
below the level of the lake- The author was further able to found a theory of
the formatioh of l^ake Baikal, and present in more or less detail, and with eomo
degree of probability, certain phages of the gritdual development of this basin
and its severance from a uarthem Silurian oa^ari.— [E. B* M.]
Al^IOA.
Bennett^ B. E.— Seven Years amotig the Fjort j being an English Trader's Experi-
ences in the Ckingo District. London, Sampson Low & Co., 1887: cr. Svo.
pp. xvL and 240. Price la. 6<?. [Presented by the Publishers,]
This liitle volume is the result of seven years' caroful observatioD and
experience among the natives of the South-west Coa^tt of Africa. Its object
is to better acqusint those tnteresled in the nej;ro, with his home-life, habits
and customs. Tlic author visited Cabenda, Kinscmbo, Amhdzette, and*
Chiloango. There are twenty-three full-pnge illustrations from photographs
and the autbor*8 own sketchea, and a map of tmde routes never before
publitthed.
Felkin, Eobert W.— Notes on the Waganda Tribe of Central Africa. (Reprinted
from the Proceedings of the Royal Society of Ediubui^h, YoL Xltl.) Ediubui^b,
printed by Neill & Co, 1886; 8vo., plates. [Presented by the Author.]
I
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS. 133
Sjob, a. — ^A Yocabolary of EibaDgi as spoken by the Babangi (commonly called
Bayanai) on the Upper Congo, from K\?a Mouth (Easai) to Liboko (Bangala).
Engliah-Eibangi. London, East London Institute^ for Home and Foreign Mis«
rions, 1886 : 12mo., pp. xi. and 111. [Presented by B. N, Cust, Esq.]
AMEBIOA.
[America, United State8.>-[Tenth Census of the United States, 1880.]
VoL XV m. Beport on, the Social Statistics of Cities, compiled by George E.
Waring, Jun., Expert and Special Agent. Part I. The New England and the
Middle States. Part IL The Southern and the Western States. Part I.
Washington, Government Printing OflBce, 1886 : 4to., pp. 915, phins.
Elliotty Henry W. — An Arctic Province : Alaska and the Seal Islands. Illus-
trated by many drawings from nature, and maps. London, Sampson Low & Co.,
1886 : 8vo., pp. xv. and 473. Price 16«. [Presented by the Publishers.]
This is one of the most complete and scientific of the numerous works
which have been recently published on Alaska. The interest of the book
centres round the tiny Pribyloff group, on the 170th meridian west, and some
200 miles north of the Aleutian island Nikolsky. Here, main ly on the islands of
St. Paul and St. George, every summer assemble hundreds of thousands of the
fur-seal (Cdllorhintis wninus) for breeding purposes, and Mr. Elliott's account
of the life of the animals, their battles and domestic arrangements, from his own
observations some twelve years ago, forms a fascinating contribution to natural
history. He also tells us much about the other animal life of these regions, and
especially of the Aleutian Islands, and of the results which have followed the
advent of the white hunter both on these and on the native population. But
around this as a nucleus we have a valuable account of the physical conditions
of Alaska and its islands, and much useful information on the ethnology of
the region. The author gives a sketch of the history of the country from its
discovery down to the present time, bringing together into handy form a great
deal of information concerning the doings of the Kussians until, about twenty
years ago, they sold the country to the United States. Mr. Elliott's account
of Alaska takes the form of a voyage around its coasts and islands,
with a series of pictures or descriptions of the different regions, as well
as of the interior so far as is known. A chapter is devoted to the special
features of the Sitkan region and another to the aboriginal life of the Sitkans.
The alpine region around Mount St. Elias is dealt with in another chapter,
and there is a long and instructive chapter on Eadiak Island, and a shorter one
on Cook's Inlet and its people. The great Aleutian group is treated in consider-
able detail, each leading island, its people, their settlements, and their life,
receiving special notice. Another long chaper is devoted to the Yukon, "the
Mississippi of Alaska," from its source to the sea ; all this in addition to the
chapters which deal with animal life. Mr. Elliott speaks to a large extent
from his own personal investigations, but has also taken the trouble to digest
and bring together the work of others who have explored a land of great
geographical interest. There are numerous good illustrations, maps of St. Paul
and St. George's islands, and a fair map of Alaska on the scale of 75 miles
to an inch.
Eappler, Angnst. — Surinam, sein Land, seine Natur, Bevolkerung imd seine
Kultur-Verhaltnisse, mir Bezug auf Eolonisation. Stuttgart, Cotta, 1887 : 8vo.,
pp. 384. Price St. [Presented by the author.]
Mr. Eappler, who was formerly an oflBcial in Dutch Guiana, presents in this
little volume a succinct and well-arranged account of its geographical and
industrial conditions. He deals first with the country and its configuration
then follow chapters on its plant and animal life, its climatic condition, the
various inhabitants and the social condition of the colony, the town of Para-
No. IL— Fbb. 1887.] L
134
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
maribo, on European ooloQisation, and oa colonial f^riculture. Tbe author has
Bome useful pages on the subject of colonisation of tropical countries by Euro*
jieaos, and on this subject ho takes a more than usualiy hopeful viow, and at
the same time gives som^ useful practical advice. There is a small sketcb-map
which shows how little we really know of the country^
OhtTf Frederick A.^ — CampHiu theCarribbees; The Adventures of a Naturalist
ill the Lcs.scr Antilles. Edmburghj Douglas, 188G; 8vo., pp. xviii. and 366*
Price 12«.
This is one of the best authorities wo liave on the geography and* natural
history of the group of islands which stretch between Porto Rico and Trinidad,
Bosny, LuciaE de^^Lea Antilles, Iiltude d*ethnographie et d'arcbeologie Amdri-
caines, [Memoires do la Societ(5 d'Ethnogmphie. Nouvelle Scrie. — Tonio
Second.] Paris, Maiaonneuvo FrCres & Charles Leclerc, 188*j: 4to., pp. 152,
Price 6». Bd.
GENERAL,
Fortescue, G* K, — A Subject Index of tbe Modem Works added to the Library of
the British Museum in the years 1880-85. Printed by order of tlie Trustees.
^ Sold at the British Museum ; and by Longmans & Co., Quaritch, Asber Sc Co.,
and Triibner & Co, London, 188G : imp. 8vo,, pp. [4J and 1014. Price 42s,
This index is mainly designe^l to assist those who uso the reading room of
the British Museum, but it is well calculated to fulfil a wider purpose. The
index is arranged alphabetically according to subjects, and oontaius works in all
literary languages except Slavonic, Hungarian, and the Oriental languages, Tho
compiler would have found it useful in some cases to have had the assistance
of spcciilists^thoUji^h so far as the geographical subjects are concerned they seem
to us Biitis factory, and hi tins respect the Index wull be found (jf much servict*.
Hauaer, [Capt.] Pa'Ql.--Die Aeqator-DurchgliEge dea Mondes, Eine Unter-
auchungs-Probe des Mond-EinGussea auf die Wittenmg. Buccari bai Flume,
Dmck von Rudolf Desselbrunner, 1886 : tsm, 8vo,, pp. 15, tables.
Lawrence I Edwin-^The Progress of a Century ; or, the Age of Iron and Steam,
London, IL Vickers & John Hey wood, 188(J : square 8vo., pp. 30. [Presented
by the Author.]
Fetherick, Edwin Aug^ustas.— Catalogue of the York Gate Library formed by
Mr, S. William Silver, an Index to the Literature of Geography, Maritime and
loland Discovery, Commerce, and Colonisation. 2ud edition. London, John
Murray : imp. 8?o., pp. cxxxii. and 333. Price 42*. [Presented by S* W. Silver,
Esq.]
The new edition of the catalogue of Mn Silvers well knowTi York Gate
Library is at least four times tho size of the first edition published in 1882.
Mr. Petherick has performed his arduous and dilljcult task very creditably, and
the result is a catalogue which will be of great service for reference. lu some
respects Mr, Silver's library is unique aa a private colloction, esj^ecially Ida
inre and valuable ** Collections." In colonial literature it is particularly strong.
Mr, Petherick has taken great pains in the arrangement of the catalogue. We
have first a catalogue of subjects, and then a long catalogue of authors, followed
by the general catalogue- The first two sections of this last are devoted to
general geography, and Transactions and Collections, followed by geneml voyages
imd travels arranged geographically. The two concluding sections are devoted
to Christian missions, and to bibliography and catalogues. An attractive feature
is the reproduction of the illustratol title-pages and other illustrations from the
old collections and other classical works, beautifully and faithfully executed.
Afl a collection of standard and rare geographical works, Mr. SUver'a collection
is a valuable one, and it .should be known that he places it freely at the service
of any one desirous of making serious use of it.
I
I
NEW GEOORAPniCAL P^BL^CATIONS•
18S
Beiter« [Dr.] Hanns*— Die Siidpolarfragc und ibre BedeutUDg fiir die genetiBolie
GlJedenmg der Erdoberflaclie. Weimar, Geo^ftpliischcs Institute 188G : imp, 8vo»,
pp. 34* [Presented by the author.]
Dr. Reiter's dissertation is of special importance at tlie present lime, seeing
that the question of tlie renewal of Antarctic exploration ia in the air. Tho
author not only gives a rtsume of all that has been done» but very forcibly
shows the value of the knowledge to be acquired /or tlie solution of certain
questions in physical geograpliy.
Scherzer, [Br.] Karl [von].-- Die Wirthachafllicho Leben der Yolker. Ein
Haudbuch tiber Production und Cousum. Leipzig, A Iphons Diirr, 1885: 8vo.,
pp, x\. and 756. Price IBs. Grf. [Presented by the Author.]
llic name of our Honorary Fellow, Dr. von Scherzer, is well known, among
other things, in connection with the pnblications on the Kffvara voyage, tho
8tatistico>oominercial resnlti? of which were issued b}^ him twenty years ago*
The preseDt work was originally intended to be an expansion of tlie former;
but Dr. von Scherzer soon found that progress had been so great, and the addi-
tional data so abundant, that an entirely new book was necessary if the field
were to be adequatjcly covered. We have tlms a large and valuable collection
of facts and figures illustrating the industrial refiulls of man's action on his
geographical surroundings, results which may he of service to those who are
cultivating the new geogiaphy. The Author deals in successive chapters with
materials from tho vegetable, animal, and inineral kingdoms, in their various
applications by humanity. A separate chapter deals with chemical industries,
and another with mechanical inventions. A specially interesting chapter is
that which deals with the share taken by different races in tho trade of tho
world. Other chapters deal with money and credit, and means of communi-
cation, and his final cbapterH with " industry !vs an organism," tarifTs, con-
sulates, exhibitions, and what the author calls " international exchange of
ideas/' and with emigration and eolonigation.
Behick, [Capt.1 A^^Beobachtungen der Misswcisung, JnklJnation und Schwing-
ungszeit der ilagnetuadel auf der Kllm und der Nordsee xwischen Hamburg und
Eouen 1884 und 1885, London und Hamburg 1S8G. Scparat-Abdruck aus don
Abhandlungen des Natnr\^isscnschartlichen Yereins von Hamburg, Band ix.
Heft 2, 1886 : 4to,, pp. 40, tables, [Preaented by the Author.]
Stephen, LeBlie.^Dictionary of National Biography. Vol. IX, Canute — Chaloner
Lotjcion, Smith, Elder ife Co., 1B87 t 8vo., pj.. vi. and 460. Price I2s. GfL
ffoeikoff, [Br J A. — Die Klimatc der Erde. Nacb dem Rusiiischen. Yom Ycr-
ksser besorgte, bedeutend veriinderte deutschc Bearbeitung. Jena, Gostonoble;
2 vols. 8vo,; voh i. pp. 39€, vol. ii. pp. xxiii, and 422. Price 20s,
The name of Dr, Woeikoff must be known to most meteorologists as that
of one who in recent years lias done much gocnl work in his own department of
science. He has tmvelled over most of the world, with a special view to the
collection of meteorological data. The results of his own observations and of
those of other writers ia the same department, he lias emlK>dicd in these two
volumes, which wc are sure will be Jbund of great ser^'icc to the physical
geographer; and it should be remembered that Dr, W<xikolT is Professor of
Physical Geography in St. Petersburg University. It covers a wider field
than the works of either Hanu or Scott, and we regret to say tliat the long-
promised new edition of Buchan*s Metei»rulugy has not yet made its appearance.
The German edition is nut a mere tranylatiou of the Russian edition published
four years ago ; there have been many improveraenta and addiUous, The first
part of the work deals with general meteorology, discussing temperatures and
air-currents ; moisture* clouds, and deposition ; rivers and hakes as the results
of climate ; the inftuence of a snow-covering on climate, and the climatic
conditions of permanent snow and glaciers; watcr-temfKiraturca ; variations in
the distribution uf tempemture on land and water, and their iofluenee on the
temperature of the earth ; daily and yearly variations in the temi)erature of
L 2
13G
NEW MAPS.
the air, of moisture, of atmospheric preMure and wiotls; vamtion of tern-
|>eratiire with altitude in mountaiDoiLS countries^ and in. the free atmosphere;
influence of climate on vegetation, and of vegetation on climate ; non-periodical
variatiouB of tem|>eraturc and rainfall ; daily variations of temperature ; general
remarks on the distrihution of temperature, presHurc, winofl, and moisture.
The second volume deals in a Beries of chapters with the special meteorology
of different redona and countries, and the whole is illuatrated by a series of cart;-
fully exccutefdiagrams. ITie work will certainly become a standard reference
work on an important subject, though probably some of Dr. WocikofFs theories
will not cum maud universal assent among meteorologists. Wc should have liked
an alphabetical index in addition to the full table of contents wMch is given*
The following works have also been added to the Library :—
Oape Oolouy* Correapoudenco respecting the Affairs of Poodolaud. London,
printed by Eyre & Spottiswoode, 1885 : folio^ pp. iv. and 25. Price 4<i. [Pre-
sented by Lord Arthur KusselL]
Oentral Asia. Ko. 4 (1885).-^Further CorresjMndonoe concerning Central Aaia*
[In coutinuation of ** Central Asia Ko. 2 ; 1885.'*] London, printed by Harrison
& Sons : folio, pp. vi, and 76, maps* Price 3s. 2d, [Presented by Lord Arthur
Ttussdb]
Greea^ John Bichard^ and Alice Stopford.^A Short Geography of the British
Islauds. With maps. London, Hacmillan & Co., 1884 : 12mo., pp. xix.
and 41G.
New Guinea and the Western Pacific Islands- Further Correspondcnco
respecting New Guinea and other Islands in the Western PaciBc Ocean. (In
continuation of [C— 4217] Ocfcl^er 1884.) Ix)ndoD, printed by Eyro and
Spottiswoode, 1885: folio, pp. xx. and 106. Price 2». [Presented by lA>rd
Arthur llussclL]
~ Ditto. (In continuation of [C— 4273] February 1885.) London, printed
by Eyre and SpottiewotKle, 1885 ; folio, pp. xv, and 20G. Price 2s. id, [Pre* i
st'nted by Lord Arthur lUiswilL]
Transvaal. Further Correspondcnco respecting the AfTairs of the Transvaal and
Adjacent Territories. (In continuation of [C. — ^i432] of May 1885.) London,
priutt^d by Eyre & Si>ottiawoodc, 1885 t folio, pp. vii, and 120. Price 2jj. U,
[Presented by Lord Arthur Hussell]
I
I
I
NEW MAPS.
(By J. Coles, Map Curator, r.q.s.)
H
EUROPE.
Attika^^Karten von ™, Auf Vcrankasuug dea Kaiscrlich Deutschen Archiolo-
gischen Jnstitiits und mit UnterstUtzung dcs Kuniglich Prcussischeu Ministoriiims
dor Gtjistlichen, Unterrichts- und MedicioaUAngelegenheiten. Aufgenommcn
durch Offiziere und Heamto des k. Preussischen Grossen Geo erals tabes, niit
erlautcradem Text hcraus^etjjebcu von E. Curtins nnd J, A. Kaui)ert, Heft IV",
Yicr Bliitter, Scale 1 : 25,000 or 2'L^ inches to a geo^aphical nule.
BL XIL — Pcntelikou. Aufgenommcn und gezeichnet Ton R, Wolff,
Bl. XIII.— Markopulo. Aufj^enoramen und gezeichnet von R. AVolff.
Bl X 1 v.— Cap Sunion (West). An fgcnommen und gezeichnet von v. Bemhardi.
HI XV,— Ce^p Sunion ((>st). Aufgenommen und gezeichnet von \\ Bemhardi.
Berlin 1886. Dietrich Reimer. (^Dtdau,)
These are moat beautifully executed maps ; the hilUwork, which ia shown
NEW MAPS. 187
by a combination of hatching and contonr lines, is coloured in sepia. Ancient
names and positions are marked in rcxi, and the heights of the mountains are
given in metres, the contours of the hills being for differences of 20 metres
in level. This issue, as also the previous one (III.)* is i^o^ accompanied by
explanatory letterpress, but a notice is printed on the cover informing the
public that these will be published when the map is complete.
Prankreich. — Uebersichts-Earte von Nordostlichen, nebst Grenzlandern mit Be-
festigungen der I. franzos. Vertheidigungslinie. A. Front der Maaslinie. — B. Front
der MoBsllinie. — C. Front von Belfort Scale 1 : 1,000,000 or 13 '6 geographical
miles to an inch. G. O'Grady. Kassell, Theodor Fischer. Price 2«. (Dtdau,)
Italiane. — Carta dclle Strade Ferrate in esercizio, in costruzione, in progetto
ed alio studio tramways a vapore, scali marittimi e stazioni lacuali corredata delle
distanze chilometriche, indici alfabetici delle stazioni, zone di vigilanza dogaoale
ed altre indicazioni e compilata in base al nuovo ordinamento suUa scorta di
documenti nfficiali da Enrico Gambillo e Cesare Piattoli, applicati all' Ufficio
ControUo Veicoli delle Strade Ferrate Meridionali. Bologna, 1886. Four sheets.
Price 4s. ed. (Dulau,)
Ke^'erda. — ^Das Deltaland des , und die Landschaft von Tunis, Karthago,
UUca und Biserta. Qez. von Th. Fischer. Scale 1 : 400,000 or 5*5 geographical
miles to an inch. With sections. Petermann's * Geographische MitteiluYigen,'
Jahrgang 1887,.Taf. 1. Justus Perthes, Gotha. (Dulau,)
Oesterreich. — Sprachen-Karte der Westlichen Kronlander von . Nach dem
Zenzus von 1880, entworfen von F. Held auf C. Vogers Karte von Oesterreich-
Ungam. Scale 1: 1,500,000 or 20*4 geographical miles to an inch. Petermann's
'Geographische Mitt«ilungen,' Jahrgang 1887, Taf. 2. Justus Perthes, Grotha.
(Dulau.)
Polen. — Handkartcn von Russisch , und den angrenzendcn Gouvemments von
O'Grady. Scale 1:1,750,000 or 23* 9 geographical miles to an inch. Price Is.
{Dulau.)
Tubingen. — Umgebungs-Karte fur die Gamisonstadt. 1 : 25,000 or 2*9 inches to
a geographical mile. Tiibingen, Fues. Price Ss. {Dulau.)
ORDNANCE SURVEY MAPS.
Pablicatlotu Itsned dnrlng the month of December 188e.
l-inch— Oenerml M«ps :—
£kqla2(d akd Wales : Sheet 274, Kew Series (Hill Shaded), U.
SooTLASTD : 127 (OatUne), 90 (Hilli). 1«. 9d. each.
O-inoh— Comity Maps:—
£voLAin> AKD Walxb: Bedfordshire: 23 S.W., 25 N.E., 28 S.E.; i«. each. Brecknock-
shire : 35 N.W.. S.E. ; U. each. Buckinflrliainshire : 31. 2«. ^d. Oambridsreshire : 12
N.W, N.E., 13 N.W.. aw., 17 N.W..8.W:. 8.E., 18 S.W.. 21 N.R. 22 N.W.. n!e. S.W., 8.E..
23 N.W., 25 N.W.. N.E.. S.W.. 31 S.W., 36 N.E, S.E., 39 N.W., N.E.. 8.W.. S.E., 40 N.W..N.E..
46 N.W., N.R, S.W.. 8.E., 62 N.E.. RE., 63 N.E. ; l#. each. Oardiflranshire : 7 N.E., S.E..
9 S.E., 11 N.E.. 14 S.W. ; 1*. each. Oarmarthensllire : 16 N.W.. N.E., S.W.. S.E. ; l#. each.
Bevonshire : 99 8.W.. 119 S.E., 125 N.W., S.W.. 126 NJi, S.E., 127 S.W. ; 1«. each. Dorset-
shire: 8 N,\\V S.W, S.i;., Ji. \,\\., Uf, .iLiu Glout-tfritertiiiire; 62 N.E., S.E., 63 S.E.,
64 N.W., 71 N.E., 7a N,IL, 7fl N,E. ; I*, pach. Herefordsliire t -^4 N.W., 32 S.E., 33 S.W..
36 N.W., 41 N.E. ; It. tacU. i^idesterahire i M S.i:., ;ic s,i:„ 4J N.W., N.E, 48 S.E., 60 N.E.,
S.E.; 1*. each. Ltncoteshlre : 4 S;VV, arxi S,E. Di] ouu ebtei, 7 N-\V^.. S.W., S.E., 8 N.W., S.W.,
SJi.l2 N.W., 20 N,W.. iN.t., 63 N.W., N.t:,S.IL. VI N.W., S.W., 77 N.li..S.E.. 85 S.E.. 96 N.E..
. S.E., 122 N.i:. ; ]r {-nch. Moiimouthshlre : >^t I9, 26; It. 64. CAirh. Montiroznery-
shire: 4 N.E.. S.K., 26 N.W., H.K^ S.W., S.E., 34 N.W.; If. each. Norfolk : 21 SJEL, 67 N.E.,
68 N.W., N,K., aw., S.E., »0 K.W., N.E., &W., S>J'l. a I S.^V^. DI N.W.; 1#. each. North-
amptonshire : ^ ^^^^ 21 s^E., 'ist i^,E, ; tjr. «idj. Oxfprdflklrd \ :u ; 2«. ed. Somerset-
shire : 37 N.W.. N.E., 8.W., S.E.. 38 N.W.. S.W.. S.E., 81 N.W.. 89 S.W., 92 N.W., 93 N.W. ;
U. each. Suffolk : 30 S.E., 83 N.E., 90 N.W. and S.W. on one sheet ; U. each. Warwick-
shire: 18 aE.. 19 N.K. 20 N.W., S.E.. 22 N.E., 8.E.. 23 N.E.. S.E., 24 N.E., S.E., 26 S.W.,
28 S.E, 44 N.W. ; i». each. Wiltshire : 18 N.E. ; u. Worcestershire : 11 N.E. ; 1*.
85-inch— Pariah Maps :*
EvoLAKD Ain> Walks: Oambridflreshire : XLI. 9, XLVil. 9. 10. 11. 12, 13. 14. 16, 16. XI.VIII.
2. 31. each ; XLVUI. 6. 4#. ; XLVIU. 6, XLDL 6. 6. LIV. 3, 4, 6, 9. 10, 12, 3». each ; LI V. 13. 4». ;
LIV. 14, LV. 9, LVill. 2, 3t. each ; LYIU. 5, At. ; LYIIL 6, LIX. 3, 3, 6, 10, 11, L2LI. 6, U. each.
138
NEW MAPS.
Carmartlienfliire : XX VII. 9, lo, ii. 3*. f&th \ \XXUL is. 4*. Cornwall : Atti Mki
KUlcbmiiptou, 2*. Derbjrahire : X^- 5t 3^. BevonsMre : IV. a, :;, g, lo, C. T, ll,0?T
16. CVIJI. («, 12, IW CXIV. 6. CXXVL H, CXXXH. 4, 7, CXXXIlI.i. 3*. eneli. Area B
AubwAtert 3«, 6c^> ^ Bradloni If. 6ti.; Bridntowe, It. (kL; Oookbary, It.; UuUijcomb^ m. ; Ifcile-
wortliy, U«. M, ; Mtjlton JJamefel, K. Cd. j Paiicniawt«k, It, (kL ? SoiirtoDf It. 6(i.| 8«tcombo. It.
Olouceatershire I XIT. 10» 3t. Area Hooka: AshcTmrch, CliarUon Abbots, lUdbrook, l^i'i-
martL't), yunhainnTon, Haflos, TodenhnTii, Upper JSUughter, Is. «aclk Herefordshire: 11. I&t
VJ. JO, Vli y, illL la, 3J. imb; XI. 7. -**.; XIII. 1, 6. li. XIV. 10. U, XVIIL 2, 3#. racli;
XV^JiL 3. 4x.; XVIII. 4, 5, e, 7. «. XIX. 11, 15» IG. XX. 12. 15, XXL X 7. 3J. ertcb. Huntinffdon-
sblre : XVIil. o. lo, XXll. i, 5, 6,3t. emch, L&noaBhire : XLVU. 4, at, I«elc«flteraiiLre:
XXXL L 4t.; XXXI. 'J, 6, XXXV. I. at. c*ch; XLTV. U, 4i ; XLlV. 12, IS, 3«. cncb; XLV. L%
4t. ; XLLX« 7, 12. L. », 10, 3*. eacb ; L. 13, 4a. ; LI 11. i>, 13, 3t. OAcb. Are* Hix»fca : Breedon on llic
HtlU lb*t<<k» NrthoT ADd Over Seal, Swcfatonc : 1 s, cacb. I^incolnslllre : V. 12, X. 1 , 3*. cjwb ;
X- a, 4t. ; X. tt, », 11, 12, 13, 16. XVI. 12 and XVJ!, fl on (jne ebeel ; XVIJ. 5, iS, 3*. each; XVJL
JB, XXVJ. 1, 4t. each ; XXVJ. 2, 3*. ; XXVI. 3. 4*, ; XXVL 4» 6. S. 7, S^, 13, XXXIU. ». XXXl V. 1 ,
2, 3, 7, 12, XLTV. 4, 3t. each; XLIV. 16,4*.; LI. 6, k, LiLfi. 1L 1S» LI. 2, 3. LXl. 8, 3,4. 7.8»
CXU'. 0, 10. CXXHI, 2, 6, 6. CL. 12. 3*. each. MontKomeryaMrB : XIV. U, XXL 15. XXII.
3,^ B. 13. H, XXJII. 6. XXIV. 1. XXVIIL 3, 5. XXX IV. U. XXXV. 2. II. XLL L S. «, 13, XLIJ.
3, 0, 6. XLVIL 5, e. 13, LL 2, c, 3#. cacb. Norfolk; XUI. 12, St. ; XIII. ic. XIV. 2, 4. 4i. e*cb ;
XIV. 6, fl, 12, 13, XV. 1, 2. 3, 4. 6. 6, 7, 9, 10. 11, I'i. 13. 14, XV. 15, XVL 4, IJ, XVII. 2,3,
XVIL 4, a. 6, y, n. 12. 13, XVIIl. 1. 3. 4,6. 6.3*. each; XVllI. 7, 5t.; XVIIL 8, 9. 10, 11, 13, 13.
XVIII, 14.15, 16, XIX. 2.3, 6, 7, t*. 9, 12. 13. XX. 2»5,3j.eadij XX, 7, 10. 4t, eacb; XI. 11, 12,
13. 14, 16. XX,A. 13, at. eocb^ XXVIIL 14, fit. ; XXXLX. 10, 3#.; XXXIX. 11. 12, XL. 16, 3*. each ;
XL. 16, LXVI. 11, 41. cadi; LXXVIL L a* 3t. lacli ; LXXVIL 9. 14, o. <?acli; LXXXVIll. 2, 3»,
LXXXVML3, 4t.i LXXXVIU. D. 3#.; IJeXXVHl. 8, It.; LXXXIX. I, 3jr. ; CX. 1, fl. 4i. etob.
Area IJookii: Ilablngicv, tTiedgnive (detacbcd No«. I and 2). Dickkburgb, Tilbj, GorboklUbaDi,
Oooderstorir, Setnilton, kbouklbam, Sbonldbam Tbijrpe, 8'naLk Pickenhacn, 8<.«iith Euncton, Stanfonl,
Tunftiill, WalUngton cum Ttiorpirtiwi, It. each. NorthamptonBhlre: I. 12, ^U.; L 15, 16.
4i. eadj; VllL 1. 2, fi, 0, 10. 13, XV. fl, 10. 3t. each; XV. 13, 4j.; XV. 14, XXIL 13, XXVII.
a, 4, 7, H. &, 11, 13, 14, XXXIX. 6. XLVIII, 4, «, 3t. fJMfb. Area Bwik*: Abiborpe, ApplrtTet',
liadbye ciittiosby, (Tfiarwi'ltnn. tlilppbig Waalen, Ci^igroi*', Crou^^ktoD, Eo-stort Alciudlt. £v<?ub.'y,
FiirthlnBljoe, Fawnley, Fnrtho, Grcatwrirtli, Hifllidon, Kinpi'a Suit/jn with Newl^rtlc, Ma^i^tjui
-I^L TjLwreDee, Mlddleton Cheney, p4u*eiihaiH. Itmlerspury (ruiterftpiiiTy. roitir^pury 1^ lu- 1 .vm
and Wliltllcfrood Forest), Silventtone, Staverion, 8l<?ane, Stnchbury, Syreflnm. 1 linrp^ M .;, i. ■- i I ,
Wappenbam. Warkwortb, Wbltilt^burr, Wickfn, Yardk'y <ir>bloii. It. ^m-Yu NottiiiKham-
»hir«: HL B. IV. 1,7, 12, 13, VIII. is, XL 5. XilL l, 4, 5. «, w, XIV. 4. 3*, earb. Area tlo<>ka :
JSIlstljorpp. Culwick, Klttwboroiigb, Wirickliurn, li. e<ii:b. Rutland: X. 12, 3*.; X. 1ft. 4».
Shropabire; Area Bucks: t'leobnry MortiiniT, It. tkj.; Luiij^kiorv, Middleton Scriven, SUbury,
1*. rael], SosieriietBlilre ; XIV. 3 and 4 on one »bpet, XXXIX. in, 13, 4t. «»ch; LI. 6, Jl*. ;
LL 6, 4*. ; LL 1^, UK :i*. each; LL 14, LIL 6. LIH. ft, LX1H, 1, 4t, ejidi ; LXllL 2, 3, 3t. eacli ;
1JCIIL4, 6, 41. I'tirh; LXIIL 7. t*, LXIV. L 2, 3. 6. 7. 3*. eacb; LXIV. 14, 4f. ; LXV. 11, St.:
LXV. 13, 4a. ; LXVL 2. LWl. 3. fl. and 1 on one Bhett, 13. 3t. cacb. Area Boctk*: I>Tmdry,Klii|rrt"n
SeynMmf, Mttrik*i'ur\', Nurth 8tok<% Norlon Hawk bo Id, Publiw, gueen Charlton, Wr-Htou inGordAm>»
It. cacli; Staff or dab ire : LXIIL U^t^ Aira Ikxk ■ ShertIT Ualcs (part ufX It. Smffolk: XXV,
J, 4»,; XXV. 6, 3*.; XXV. 6, 4t.; XLIL 9, 31.; LVL 4, 4«. ; LVL 7, *i^. t,d.; LVI. fl. LXXIL 6,
1JCXL6, LXXIL U, 3<i. ettdi; LXXIL 15. 5t. ; LXXIV. 3. 11, IS. LXXXI. ir>. 3t. Area Itooks :
Miirkt^t Wei«t*ni and IHUo (diftached), OITi'iii, It. eacii. WarwickBhir©: XXIII.a, 13, XLIIL 2,
nt. each. XLFV. 7, 4t.i XLV. 3, 6, 7. XLVI. 1, 2. 3, 4, 0, », 9. 10, 13. 13^ LI. B, 3#. tach ; LL
12, a*.; LIL L 2. 3, C. 7, f. LIV. i. S, 6. 1 *, 3t, *45tkj. Area Book: I'rlcra Mi*rston, Itj Wilt-
ahlre: XIIL L3t.; XXV. 13, 4t,; XXVIIL S, 8,iJ. 10, VI, 13, 10, XXIX. 4, 7, 8, 11. 12, 13, I4,
IB. 16, XXXIX. 3, 4, e, at. each; XXXIX, 7. 8, 4t.ea<:bi XXXIX. 10, 11. 12. 13. 14. IS. 1«, XL.
13. 16, 3t. eacb. Worooeterahlre : XXVIIL 12, 4f.; xxxiiL 12, I6, XLIV. 4, LIL 1, fi,
LV. 10, 3jr. ejiils. Arra Book: Bftmw, Bmbley, Cbarttoti, IKtv^rdftlc, KlnibritlBC, iirimley, Hwilcy
Child, Ilanlt'y Wltliiun, Iloll, Martin H UFetinprtree, It, rjw:b ; Amberlcy, 2t. ; Ktjiihuck, It,; Tenbury,
It. 6tt J 'IV hrkbanifurd. It. TorkBhire : CIJLXXll. 7. lU, It, eaeb.
Town Plans— lO-fcel pcale;—
Ekolasd ami WALKii : CarobiiJfTP, XL. 14^ 15, Ifl, 2t. eadi. Crewkerne, LXXXVIIL 16. -5;
LXXXIX, 13. 2. e, 12. 13. 23; XCIIL 1, 2,3; 2t. each. I>evi»e8, XXXIV. 13, 1". XXXIV, 14,
6, II, Si. eat:b» UmnUuim, CXUL;16, 14. 2^, Kellerin^, XXV. 14. 2, 2t, Ufcestcr. XXXI. 15,
12, 2f. Sbepton Mallet. XLi. 12. U, IG, 2t. cack. Stratfurd-oti-Avon, XLIV. 2, 23,24; XLIV.
e. 8, IT, 19, 2t. <'^itb. Wells, XLL 5, 7, 2t, Wert Bromwlcb, LXVllL 10, iw, 19. 20, 2:1, 2t. each ;
W0lverliHinj>loii. LXIL 6. », 2S. 2*. each. YeovH, LXXXIJL 13, 4, 9, 12, 13, H. 18, 20, 2S j
LXXXili. 14. II, li. 13. Hi XC, 1, 6. >, 10, 13, 2t. trtcb,
ASIA,
Indian Govenimeiit Surveys :^
Indian Atlaa : Quarter iShects, 12 S,W» Parts of Districta Halkr and Oklio*
Timndal (Kuthiawiir, Bombay Prceidcricy). 35 N.W, Parts of Oodevfiore, Gwalior,
Tonk and Jndore (Native Stales, Rnjputana, nod Central India Agencies). 35 S.E.
Parts of Gwalior, Oodeyporo, Partxibgarh, Indorc, Jhallawar, Dewas, Joara, and
BariBwara (Native States), 37 8.E. Parts of Kliaodtsb (Bombay Presidency) and
Indorc (Central Indian Agency). 49 N.E. Parts of Distncti? llomdabad, Meenit,
Miizaffarnagar and Bijnor (N.W. Provinces), Delbi, and Kamal (PiinjabX —
Skeleton Map of India, 128 miles to an incb^ 188G,— India, sliowiug tbe progress
of the Iraperial Surveys to October Ipt, 1885. 128 miles to an inch. — ^The
External Trade Boutos of India, 1886. 80 milea to an iDch. — Skeleton Map of
India, Ci miles to nn inch, 1886, 2 sheets,— India^ without hills, 64 milea to
KEW MAPS.
189
k
t
an mcli. 4 ^eoU, aJilitioiiiJ to 1880* — India, witli hills, 64 miles to an mch,
4 sheets, additions to 188G, — Pun j ah Survey, 1 mile to an inch. Sheet No. 174^
I>i8tnct Montgomery. Seaaons 1^54-5ri-nG.--Ondh Revenue Survey, 1 mile to
jui iJicb. Seasons 18^2-3-4 and 5. Sheet No. 163, Districts Fyzabiul and Sul-
tanpur, Xo. 176, District Fyxahad, No. 177, Districts FyzalKul and SulLinpur. —
Xocib West Provinces Survey, 1 mile to an inch. Seasons 1873-74-75-82-83-S4.
SbeeU No. 22, Districts Aligarh, Muttm, and Gurgaon. Nos. I8C, 1«7, 202,
riistrict Mirzapur. — Ilyderahod Survey, 1 mile to an inch. Sheets Nos. 30, 31, 32,
54. 55, 50, 57 (33 and 58), 80, 81, 83, 84 (82 and 108). Mt>odg:ul Circar,
Beaion 1816-17. Nos. 151, 152, Daverkondah Circar (Isolated Porlion), Seasons
1B21 ami 1824-5.— Cutch, RedncUon of Sheets 3, 4, 10 and 11 (2nd edition)
2 mdes to an inch. Seasons 1880-81 and 1883-84. Reduction of Sheets 17, 18,
24 and 25* 2 miles to an inch. Seasons 1881-2 and 1883-4. Sheets Nos. 20
27, 28, 20 of Cutch. 1 mile to an inch. Season 1883-4.— Hooghly Hiver
SuiTdy. 1 mile to an inch. Sheets Nos, 1 and 2. Seasons 1881-82-83. — Bengal
Survey. 1 mile to an inch. Sheet No. 172. District Durbhnnga. Seasons 1847
to 40. Nos. 270, 271, 272^ District Jalpaio;uri. Season 1868-5^— The Province of
AfliaiD, under the jurisdiction of the Chief Commisgioner, 24 mi If s to an inch. 1886.
— The Garo Hills, Lower Assam, 4 miles to an inch. Seasons 1870-71 and 1872
IQ 71. — Map of the District of Bareilly, compiled and revised from shoots of tlie
new Revenue Survey, 2 miles to an inch. Seasons 1866 to 72. 2 sheeta.^ —
Map of Kathia war, reduced from the G. T. Survey Sheets, 16 miles to an inch,
IfiSO, — The Patna Division, compriHing the Districts of Chumpiirun, SArun, Jlo-
xuffcrpore, Durhhunga, Shilbiibid, Patna, and Gyii, showing the Tirhoot State
Kailway, and connocte*! railways under the jurisdiction L*f the Lieut. Govr.
of Bengal. 16 miles to an inch, l&86.^^District Midnap*)ie, 4 miles to an
mch» 1886, — Sketch of tho Country roun<l Mandale, 2 milc^ to an incb, 188*».
^SUMM/ord, agent,}
ialay, or East Indian ArcMpelago, witli Burmah, Siam, &c., by Wm. Shawc,
r-iLO-S. Scale 1 : 8,700,000 or 120 geographical milea to an inch. G. Philip & Son,
Lonilon and Liverpool, 1887. Price Is., or mouutcil on cloth and in case, 2s.
INDIAN OCEAN,
Antananarivo (Madagascar). — The Environs of , hy Pere Desire Rohlet, s.j.
(1862-1882). Stanford's Geographical Establishment, London ; Macmillan & Co.
CHABTS,
Admiralty, — Ohartg and Plana published by
Admiralty, in November and December 1886.
the Uydrographic De|iartment,
2115
m
=
Inchei.
0-6
1461
m
=
7-2
m
m
=
3-0
5sa
m
-2
various
Entrance to the Baltic:— The Sound (Plans, Copen-
hagen, Ilelsingor harbour, Flint channel) 28. 6<f.
Italy, west coast ;— Genoa. It. 6d,
Gulf of St Lawrence, New Brunswick, Shediao bay
and harbour. Is. 6<i.
South America : — Anchorarjes in Tiorra del Fuego —
Burnt island anchorage, Baleines bay, Fleuriais bay,
Awaiakirrh cove, liinncr cove, Packaaddlo bay,
Good Success bay, Lennox cove, Townshend har-
bour, Doris oove, Romanche bay, Uahuwaia Sliaaion
Station, Orange bay, Goroe road, March harbour,
Voilier oove, Indian hay, Coralie cove, Middle cove,
Adventure cove, I^pamVa bay, Lort bay, Otter,
Seagull, and Romanche anchorages, Stewart har-
bour, St Martin oove. Port Maxsvelf» ScourfleW
and Hately bays. 2s, G^f.
!;■■/■■■
\ -^
■j:v:"
134
JMUHB NAUMAinrS ptper
noeocniidiy of Japan."
etic DecUfMtU in red.
isk Mfl«a
Pub* 4
■rto
144
■ ' ..*:-»-;-■•-'■. i-CflK.;. ■ h^'-HiW
I
I
»
PBOCEEDINGS
OF TBE
ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
AND MONTHLY RECORD OF GEOGRAPHY.
On t}i6 Scope and Methods of Geoymphif,
By H, J. Mackindeb, b.a.
(Ao Address delivered nt tlie Evening^ Meeting, jAnuDry 31 et, 1S$7.)
What is geography? This seoius a strange question to addresa to a
beographical Society, yet there arc at least two reasons why it tih<inhl
he answered, and answered now. In the first place geographers have
''^11 active of late in prttssing tlie claims of their science to a more
honoured position in the currit;ulum of oiirflchools and Universities. The
^orld, and especially the teaching world, replies with the tpiestioii,
"What is geography?'* There is a touch of irony in the tone. The
^ucational battle now being fonght will turn on the answer which e^n
h© given to this question. Can geography he rendered a discipline instead
*^* a mere body of information? This is but a rider on the larger
^xiBcstion of the scope and methods of oar science.
The other reason for now^ pressing this matter on your notice
<^me8 from within. For half a century several societies, and most
^^ all our owii» have been active in promoting the exploration of
Ae uvorld. The natural result is that we are now near the end of the
^U of great discoveries. The Polar regions are the only large blanks
remaining on our maps. A Stanley can never again reveal a Congo
^ the delighted world, For a time gootl work will be done in New
Guinea, in Africa, in Central Asia, and along the boundaries of the
*^*en regions. For a time a Greely wull now and again receive the
^*^ ringing welcome, and will prove that it is not heroes that are
^^.nting. But as tales of adventure grow fewer and fewer, as their
P^ace ig more and more taken by the details of Ordnance Surveys, even
^ allows of Geographical Societies will deepondently ask, "What is
K«5<^raphy?"
It is needless to say tliat this paper would not be written were it n\y
**^*i^f that the Eoyal Geographical Society must shortly close its
history — a corporate Alexander weeping because it has no more worlda
^^ Conquer, Our future wxirk is foreshadowed by papers such as those
Ko. HI.— Maech 1887.] m
112
ON THE SCOPE AND METHODS OF GEOGRAPHV,
hy Mr< Wells on Brazil, Mr. Buolianan on the OceaoB, and Mr. Bryce on V
the Eelation of History and Geography* Navertheless, there will be
^eat advantages in guiding our way into the new groove with our eyea
to somo extent, at any rate, open. A discussion of the question at tho
present moment will probably have the further incidental advantage of
giving US new weapons in our educational struggle.
The first inquiry to which we must turn our attention is this : Is
geography one, or is it several subjects ? More precisely. Are physical
and political geography two stages of on© investigation, or ate they
separate subjects to be studied by different me tliods, the one an appendix
of geology, the other of history ? Great prominonce has recently been
given to this question by tho President of the Geographical Section of
the British Association. In his address at Birniingham he took up a
very definite position. He said, — >
" It is difficult to reconcile the amalgamation of what may bo con-
sidered ' scientific * geography with hiatorj^ One is as thoroughly
apart from the other as geology is from astronomy."
It is with great reluctance and diflSdence that I venture to oppose so
justly esteemed an authority as Sir Frederic Goldsmid* I do so only
because it is my film conviction that tho position taken tip at Birming-
ham is fatal to the beat prospects of geography. I take notice, more-
ovjer, of Sir Frederic Goldsmid's declaration that he is quite ready to
abandon the conclusion at which be has arrived, before the arguments
-of sounder reason. In so difficult a discussion it would be extremely
presumptuous, were I to assume that mme are arguments of sounder
reason. I put them forward only because so far as I can sec, they have
not been met and overthrown in the address in qnestion. Perhaps Sir
Frederic Guldsniid has but expressed the vague views of tho subject
-current in most men's minds. This is the more probable, because in his
own statement he has used arguments going to support a view opposed
<o that which he himself formulates.* ^
On the same page as that from which our quotation is taken will b© V
found a paragraph expressiog the highest approval of Mr. Bryce's
** Geogniphy in its relation to History.'' The central proposition of
Mr, Biyee's lecture is that man is largely *' the creature of Ms environ-
ment," The function of political geography is to trace the interaction
between man and his environment. Sir Frederic Goklsmid requires of
political geography that it shall impart to our future statesmen a *' fiill
grasp " of " geographical conditions,*' So far no exception can be taken
to his views. But ho seems to imagine that the " full grasp " of which
* Sir Frederic Goldsmid ha» written a very courbeoufi AiiBwer to this pnragcraph.
From ifc I givther thiit I hure not attached the meBnitjg to his wortls wliich he intended.
For that I am Borry, I leav«' tlic^ ffftragrapU Htanding, however, as I believe that mine
ii not ftu imimtural nieauiuj; to iittach to the words. They might easily he quotetl
ftfaiost the geogrnpliejn, and with the mgre weight became they como from a known
friead of geography.
ON THE SCOPE AND METHODS OF GEOGEAPHV,
143
^
^
I
be speaks may be obtained from -what remains after *' physical and
Hcientific ** geography have been eliminated.
Before proceeding fiirtlier, it will be well to see whether we cannot
refine on our definition with advantage, Phjeiology would answer to
the definition of the science which traces the interaction of man and his
environment. It is the function of physiology, of physics, and of
chemistry to trace the action of forces irrespective for the most part of
precis© locality* It is especially characteristic of geography that it
traces the influence of locality, that is, of environment varying locally.
So far as it does not do this it is merely physiography, and the essential
topographical element has been omitted. I propose therefore to define
geography as the science whose main function is to trace the interaction
of man in society and so much of his environment as varies locally.*
Before the interaction can be cont-idered, the elements which are to
interact must be analysed. One of these elements! is the varying
environment, and the analysis of this is, I hold, the function of physical
geography. Thus we are driven to a position in direct antagonism to
current notions. We hold that no rational political geography can exist
which is not built upon and subsequent to physical geography. At the
present moment we are suffering under the effects of an irrational
political geography, one, tliat is, whose main function is not to trace
causal relations, and which must therefore remain a body of isolated
tlata to be committed to memory. Such a geography can never be a
discipline, can never, therefore, be honoured by the teacher, and must
always fail to attract minds of an amplitude fitting them to be rulers
of men*
But it may be i^etorted- — ^For the purposes of political geography
cannot you rest satisfied with a more superficial and more easily learned
analysis than that furnished by physical geography? In reply^ we
take up our lowest position. Such analyses have been tried, and havo
l)een found wanting. It is practically easier to learn the profound
analysis of science, raising and satisfying as it does at every point the
instincts which drive us for ever to ask the question ** why ? " than to
acquire a sufficient amount of information from the name-lists of the old
Bchool-books or the descriptions of so-called descriptive geography.
Topography, which is geography with the " reasons why " eliminated,
is almost unanimously rejected both by masters and pupils.
There are other reasons for our position of even higher importance
than practical convenience in teaching* I will mention three. The
• For anotlicr definition from a mtlier different standpoint see my speech in openiDg-
the dijcvsaion, m/ra, p. 160.
t The other element is, of course, man in nodety. Tbo unalyaia of this will be
ihorter tliAii tlint of the enviroumcnL It may beat he conddeped on the? linca of
B^^ehot'3 * Physic* and Politics/ The communities of men should bo looked oo an
milts in the etmg^gle for existence, more or lesa fuvotircd by their ferernl environmeat*.
8m p, 11 for deflnitioii of *^ community - * nnd " euTironment.''
H 2
144
ON THE SCOPE AND METHODS OF GEOGFL\PHV\
first is this. If you learn what tlie old geographers term ** the physical
features ^* in their causal relations, advance becomes ever easier and
easier. New facts fit in an orderly way into the general scheme. They
throw a new light on to all previously obtained knowledge, and that
knowledge in turn illuminates them from many points* When, how-
ever, the method of description has l>een adopted^ and still more that of
enumeratioD, each additional fact addw an ever-inoreaaing amount to the
burden to be Ijorne by the memory. It is like throwing: another pebble
on to a heap of gravtl. It is like learning mathemaiics by trying to_^
remember formulae instead of grasping principiee. ^M
Our second reason is shortly this. A superficial atialjsia is likely to
lead into error : on the one hand by failing to go beneath the superiicial
similarity of things essentially dilfering ; on the other hand by failing
to detect the essential sin^ilarity of things superficially unlike.
The third reason is this. The mind which has vividly grasped in
their true relations the factors of the environment is likely to be fertile
in the suggestion of new relations between the environment and man.
Even if there be no design of advancing the science, the same conditions
will lead to a rapid, a ^dvid, and therefore a lasting appreciation of the
relations which have been detected by others* ^
It will be well here to pause and to sum up our position in a serie6^|
of propositions*
n 1. It is agreed that the function of political geography is to detect
and demonstrate the relations subsisting between man in society and
so much of his environment as varies locally,
2. As a preliminary to this the two factors must be analysed,
3. It is the function of physical geography to analyse one of the
factors, the varying cUTironment.
4. Nothing else can adequately perform this function.
Because —
No other analysis can exhibit the facts in their causal relation^
and in their true perspective.
Therefore—
No other analysis will —
Firstly, Serve the teacher as a discipline ;
Secondly, Attract the higher minds among the pupils ;
Thirdly, Economise the limited power of memory ;
Fourthly, Be equally trustworthy ; and
Fifthly, Be equally suggestive.
Here we must expect the observation that, granting the desirability
of what we ask, we are none the less asking what is impossible* Our
reply will be that it has not been tried. Physical geography has
usually been undertaken by those already burdened with geology,
political geography by those laden with history. Wo have yet to see
the man who taking np the central, the geographical position, shall look
0!t THE SCOPE AND METHODS OF GEOGRAPHY.
146
^
^
equally on such parta of science anJ sncb parts of liietory as are p^r*
liaent to his inquir}'. Knowledge ifl» after all, one, but the extreme
Bpecialism of the present day seems to hide the fact from a eertain class
of minds. The more we specialise the more room and the more necessity
is there for students whose constant aim it shall be to bring out the
relations of the special subjects* One of the greatest of all gaps lies
Mwcen the natural sciences and iht^ study of humanity. It is the duty
of the geographer to build one bridge over an abyss which in the
opinion of many is upsetting the equilibrium of our culture. Lop off
either limb of geography and you maim it in its noblest part.
In speaking thus wo are not blind to the necessity of specialism
within geography itself* If you would do original work in the science
you must specialise. But for this purpose either physical or political
geography would be as unwieldy as the entire subject* Moreover, your
special subject need not fall entirely within the re^lm of one or other
branch ; it may lie across the frontier. Geography is like a tree which
tarly divides into two great bi-anches, whose twigs may none the loss
be inextricably interwoven. You select a few adjacent tw^igs, but they
may spring from different branches. As a subject of education, how*
ever, and as a basis for all fruitful specialigra within the subject, we
insist on the teaching and the grasping of geography as a whole.
This question of possibility leads us naturally into an inquiry as to
the relations of geography to its neighbour sciences. Wo cannot do
better than adopt Mr. Br^'ce'a rough classification of the environment.
Firsts we have the influences due to the configuration of the earth*a
surface ; secondly, those belonging to meteorology and climate ; and
thirdly, the products which a country oflTers to human industry.
First, then, as to the configuration of the earth's surface. We have
her© a bone of contention between the geographers and the geologists.
The latter hold that the causes which have determined the form of the
lithosphere arc dealt with by their science, and that there is neither
room nor necessity for the physical geographer. The geographer has
in consequence damaged his science by refusing to include among his
data any hut the barest results of geology. The rivalry must be well
known to all here present* It has been productive of nothing but evil
to geography. Two sciences ma.y have data in part identical, yet there
ought to be no bickering in consequence, for the data, though identical,
aie looked at from different points of view. They are grouped
differently. Least of all should the geologist exhibit such weakness.
At every step in his own department ho U diM»«>ndeiit on hifl ioieiilif
brethren. Palaeontology ib the J
ifl irrational apart from 1
physics and chemistry
for instance, the oau
attempt to find a coinmC'^
14G
ON THE SCOPE AND METHODS OF GEfKlFlAPHV.
in Br, Croll's astronomical interpretation of recurrent glacial epodis.
But enough of thia. The true distinction between geology and
geography seems to me to lie in this : the geologist looks at the
present that ho may interpret the past; the geographer looks at the
past that he may intei*pret the present. This lino has already been
traced for us by one of the greatest of the geologiBts,
In his * Text-hook of Geology/ Dr. Archibald Geikio gives the
following lucid determination of it : *^- M
*'An investigation of the geological history of a country involves V
two distinct lines of inquiry* We may first consider the nature and
arrangement of the rocks that underlie the surface^ with a view to
ascertaining from them the succeesive changes in physical geography
and in plant and animal life which they chronicle. But besides thafl
story of the rocks, we may try to trace that of the surface itaelf, the
origin and vicissitudes of the monntains and plains, valleys and ravines,
peaks, passes, and lake basins, which have been formed out of tlie rocks.
The two inquiries traced backwards merge into each otherj but they
become more and more distinct as they are pin-sned towards later times.
It is obvious, for instance, that a mass of marine limestone which rides
into groups of hills, trenclied by river gorges and trnversed by valleye^
presents two sharply contrasted pictures to the mind* Looked at from
the side of its origin, the rock brings before us a 8ea-l>ottom over which
the relics of generations of a luxuriant marine calcareous fauna accumu-
lated. We may be able to trace every bed, to mark with precision its fl
organic coBtents, and to establish the zoological succession of which
these fiuperimposed sea-bottomB are the rocoids. But we may be quiie
unable to explain how such sea-formed limestone came to staud as it
now does, here towering into hills, and there sinking into valleys* The
rocks and their contents form one sutiject of study, the history of their
present scenery another/' fl
The same idea is indoi-sed by Professor Moseley in his lecture on
*^ The Scientific Aspects of Geographical Education." We qnote the
following passage from among many others in the same strain : I— |
*' Regarding physical geography as a part of geology to be separated
from it : — The reason w^hy such a separation should be eflfected is that
there is thus formed and brought together for special treatment a subject
which is far more necessaiy and suitablo for general educational purposes
than the whole of geology itself, which w^ill atti-act far more students
and act as a lever for promoting the study of other branches of scienoo
as special studies, and certainly of geologj^ itself
•* The principal argnment that is always brought against the estab-
lishment of professorships of physical geogra]>hy at the Universities is
that the subject is already covered by the professors of geology ; but
• Arcbibold Geikie, * Toxt^book of Geology,* 1882, p. 910.
t *U.G. S. E<liicttttoTiid Rc'ixirts/ ISSC. \\ 22^S, Froftwor Moeelcy.
I
ON THE SOOP£ AND METHODS OF GEOOBAPHr. 147
Frof. Geikie evidently does not take that view, and pointit out In hin
letter already referred to, * Geology is every day increasing in its soop^;
which is already too vast for the physical powers of even the m(Mt
isde&tigable teacher.' "
In this passage Frof. Moseley advocates the establishment of a chair
of physical geography. It must not be concluded from this that he is
q^osed to the unity of geography. This is made clear by oth';r [K/rtions
of his lecture.
** PossiUy, although at the pxesent moment it may not be jKtmlhhy
to secne the representation jof geography as a whole, because </f the
tpparent vmgoeneas of its bounds and the attacks on all si#les to which'
it is in ooDsequence liable, there may be a chance of nnctyHm if the attemfrt
be made to press the claims of i^ysical geography .'*
And again: —
'^Ou^t not pkvBcal geography to form part of every liberal edocai^
tian as being a subject specially adapted for purposes of general l«knriik|r,
aad as the only true batis on which can be founded a knowledge of wfaaC
ii iumol political geography?"
Pobapa nowhere is the damage done to geography by the tW/rr
vhick denies ita unity better seen than in the case of pbysicid geofp'4(pby .
The sshyecc has been ahaadooed to the geologists, and has in ^mmf^^n^iw^t
\ rxicjcieal bias. Pbcnomepa such as rc^canoei, hfX spring]*, %mA
^brjpim, have been grouped into cfaapt^fn, irrw^Tetire ^>f th^ rit$pf0tm tn
vkidt Jaej wcmr, Frcm the geologist s poiiit ^d vi<rsr thai is mdkff^^i*
—he is ki&kiBg as his BoKtta ntnut ; to*: Tc^i^ntKC^ifz^g ^A U^ mAU
litei kiecwy^tfia if ^A great isLX/^x^xK:^^^ \0gt <tjh tx^^a&fikg *A the
cB3zr« fssasge^ ^e aeiKv^s ^A tbsr efvec^ r^^^^ied, if. if^r tEie ytrymi <Y
er z^xfx^^ T?rT:-portart, Brt swa a seseav^ is lux
rwgssMj. «Bri Dr^ ArsLfbsld G^skie tells -wr flsMl 7 i«i
IB ■TLrmnris «f Fkjwa2 G-ec^^Taccj ' * t^skt l« is «ses^ tiuf; wf^Hb m
viBviias «• ycvmjcx^crr, TrK xoTwai ^^^^grs^fify ^bm «^ V^'^%
i» a fBBBik ^■.^".^.tMt ^tf '2^ ^fi^zxrnrarjiL ^f ta«& 5»KSn:r»« ^^ t>u^ *att*^%
tK&B^ Tit uidEa snuc 2* rt^rnrjwii en * ^^j^/j^xrja^jfi^ '-Am-Jk^ It I
i£ a ^TfssL iacasfe- * ^^T » i * "" T^TOspacoj- * Wii*r:% » r, ''* FarTe>^
sscigirj. -^ ^*^ ^ =^ taiEc* - '^ Pic3»^ ^jT^t^-j^ ^ IH^jw {^^.^^ jn «?
m 3080. it MiSBBC*-- SOtC in«W fll«i J*»r JUSUR VL 55 '* ^'jt^M'JJTJ ««» *- Vi4^
psmii 11 'ae ^fiiiios: nut ^suk ^rj^sM^e^ Tb^ ins: >vi*/ t^Hv/^t^j^ w^,
"j^ 3^m i£ -iif!: rsficizcaaieL T!k crofiicraui tiun«% xl ^^r^'wseuv^ T^n
imj sin mMsn of laj mur if 'Zuen^ \vr x is irj tfteit%arjta ^iwi<^ ;»vt
^jisat -nijdL TzraoMt x^ S^i-ijimi^ ifrifj^t it Jie «riv: ieaj«: Jt vapi0^>smf!a' ^
148
ON THE SC!OPE AND METHODS OF GEOGRAFHr.
We will give two illustrations of tho inadequacy for geographical
pnrpoBes of the present (geological) physical geographies even wheu
considered as physiographies.
The iirst is the undue prominence given to sueh subjects as volcanoes
and glaciers. To this my attention has been several times drawn by
your Assistant-Secretary, Mr. Bates. It is perfectly natural in books
>vTitten by geologists* Volcanoes and glaciers are phenomena which
leave most market! and charact eristic traces behind them. Therefore,
from a geological point of view they are niutit important, and are worthy-
of special study. But the result resembles a book o]i biology written
l>y a palteontologist. In it we should ex|>ect to find the snail's shell, for
instance, described in the greatest detail, but to the comparative neglect
of tho far more important soft parts vdthin.
My other illustration is a practical one, which must appeal to the
exi>erience of all thoughtful travellers. Let us say that you go for a
trip up the Ehine ; you must be strangely wanting in curiosity if you do
not ask yourself such questions as the following :— Why is it that after
passing over many miles of flat land through which the Ehine meanders
almost on a level with the surrounding country, we com© suddenly to a
part of its course in which it passes through a gorge ? Why, when wo
reach Bingen, does that gorge still more suddenly cease» its place taken
by a lake-like valley bounded hy parallel ranges of mountains? No
ordinary physical geography that I have seen adequately anawera such
questions as these. If 3'ou happen to have a special knowledge of the
subject, you may know that if you look into tho * Journal of the
Geological Society * ' you will find a delightful paper on this subject
by Sir Andrew Ramsay. But this implies the time and opportunity for
research among original authorities, and even then your reward will be
slight. It is only a few isolated regions which have been so treated.
I will close tliis portion of the subject with a constmctive attempt,
I shall select a region familiar to all, that your attention may be con-
centrated on the method rather than the matter. Let us take the south-
east of Enghmd. The usual method of treating the geography of such
a region would he to describe from a physical point of view first the
coast and then the surface. The cajves and inlets of the one and the
hills and valleys of the other would be enumerated in order. You
w-ould then have a list of the political divisions, and a further list of
tho chief tow^uH, stating the rivers on whose banks they stand. In some
eases a few interesting but isolated facts would be added, menial pegs
on which to hang the names. The political portion of such a work
even at best rises no higher than to the muk of a good system of
mnemonics. As for the ph^'sical portion, all the text-bcx>k8 agree in
commilting what is, from my point of view, a fundamental error. They
separate the descriptions of the coast and the surface. This is fatal to
• 1874.
I
■
I
I
ON THE SCOPE AND METHODS OF GEOGBAPHV. 140
the demonBiration in due perspective of the chain of caiuses and effoota.
The accidents of the surface and of the coast are alike the results of the
interaction of two forces, the Tarying resistance of the rock strata and
the varying erosive powers of atmosphere and sea. The erosive powers,
whether superficial or marginal, act on one and the same set of rocks.
Why should there be a Flamborough Head ? Why should there be a
Torkshire Wold ? They are but two edges of the rim of one and the
flame maas of uptilted chalk-strata.
Let U8 try to construct a geography of South-eastern England which
shall exhibit a continuous series of causal relations. Imagine thrown
over the land like a white tablecloth over a table, a great sheet of chalk.
Let the sheet be creased with a few simple folds, like a tablecloth laid
hy a careless hand. A line of furrow * runs down the Kennet Vf
Reading, and then follows the Thames out to sea. A line of ridgo
pMses eastward through Salisbury Plain and then down the centre of
the Weald. A second line of furrow follows the valley of the Frome
aad its sabmarine continuations, the Solent and Spithead. Finally, yet
anoond Hne of ridge is carried through the Isle of Porbeck and its
BOW detached member the Isle of Wight. Imi^ine these ridges and
knows untouched by the erosive forces. The curves of the strata
vuald be parallel with the curves of the sur&ce. The ridges would
he flat-topped and broad. The furrows would be flat-ljr/ttomed
aad btoad. The Kmnet-Thames farrow would be characterised l^y
Jafirasinft width as it advanced eastward. The slopes joining the
terow-botftaaa to the ridge-top would vary in steepness. It is not
fielended that the land ever exhibited sudi a picture. The upheaving
aad tiae cmsiie foroes have always acted simultaneously. As with the
Emses of Fartianimt, the process of ruin commenced before the bvUdlng
vaa i^m^i^^ The eJimination of eronon is merely an expedient to
ihsw ^e sifliple amngeaaent of the rocks, whidh aimpKeity is iwaslrrd
W dw afiyaicnt cimfnaion of the ruin. Add one more £act, thai above
and bdow ^e hard dialk lie strata of soft dsj, aad we have drawn fMt
^nic^ flv aD thst we require.
IVe mamldtx^m wmrk is eoaplete ; the dnsel snst ni9w Ue sfppli^
IW fii BUS of aira»dgea tear o«r cloth to tattetm. Bait m thfMj^ tibe
seB stzftiMd wi^ stared as it lay emasd on iht tabi^ A^
[ lid^es we kavit deseriliied hare not faOen in. Their rsnK»l
■& fK^eet sdfiy as lull TMmgfsm and eapss. The Uavm-
I ^he sqiedBeaaBhcatt elay , pr>lnee Hn^ ef valkj
e liMBBs lB*»tftesr>ft<iaf ^eseahsMi
gTHS inka of ^e TWwa saMl^ aad tike Mrr9w«»T
I wki(£& exscftd fe«L P'xie Har^#;i«r tibsj^aif^
W andEaX^r ijj^ini'nmmi Jm -mmbej wad. lalL T^ tm\ mat Ut«m. fiiaiiT/ mi^Ufi,
IfiO
ON THE SCOPE AND METHODS OF GEOGBAI'Hl'.
I
the Solent to Spithead, and vvMch ramify into Southampton Water and
Portsmoiitli, Langstone, aud (.'hichester Harbours. The upturned edgu
of the clialk-sheet produces th© long range of liills, which, under the
various names of Berkshire Downs, ChUtem, and Gogmagog Hills, and
East Anglian Heights, bounds the Kennet-Thamea basin to the north-
west. The North and South Downs stand up facing each other, tho
springs of an arch from which the key-stone has been removed.
The same arch fonns Salisbury Plain, and its eastward prolongation in
the chalk uplands of Hampshire ; but hero the key-stone, though damaged,
has not been completely worn through. Beachy Head and the North and
South Forelands are but the seaward projections of the Down ranges.
The fact that the North Downs end not in a single promontory, like
Beachy Head, but in a long lino of cliff, the two ends of which aro
marked by the North and South Forelands, may servo to draw attention
to a relation which frequently exists between the slope of the surface-
and the dip of tho strata. A few sentences back, we mentioned the
fact, that if our simple ridge and furrow system really obtained, the
slopes connecting the ridge-topa and tho furrow bottoms would vary in ■
bteepness. By remembering the position of a hill-range in the ** restored "
i*uin, wo shall remember not merely its direction, but also the relative
steepness of its two faces. One will bo prmlnc^ed by the dipping strata, ■
the other will bo tho escarpment where tho strata have been cut short.
On the dip of the strata will depend very much whether when we havo
climbed the escarpment, we soo in front of us a sharp descent or an
undulating upland. Contrast in this respect the two ehjilk uplands
which form tho broad projections of lilast Anglia and Kent with the
narrow ridges, the Chilterns and the Hog*8 Back. The north-west
escarpment of the Chilterns is continuous with the western scarped face
of East Anglia, The south-eaBtem dip-slope of the Chilterns is con-
tinuous with the dip-slope which forms tho broad uplands of Norfolk,
The dip is steep in the case of the Chilterns, slight in that of Norfolk,
Similarly the Kentish uplands are a prolongation of the Hog's Back.
Tho southern scarped faces differ but little, whereas the northern dip-
slope of the Hog's Back is steep, though its continuation in Kent is only
gently inclined. This terminal expansion of the hill^ranges has been
of great importance in English history, as wiU be seen presently. The
expansions may bo considered as dependent on the eastward widen-
ing of the Eennet-Thames Imsin* It will be noticed that the shores of
the Thames estuary are on the whole parallel with the hill-ranges
which mark the lipa of the basin, the northern shore parallel with the
curve traced by tho hills from Hunstanton Point to tho Chiltems, the
southern parallel with the straighter range of the North Downs.
Tho rivers of the district fall naturally into three classes. First, we
have those which flow down the dip-slope of East Anglia, As a eon-
aequence, they aro numerous and roughly parallel. They do not combine
ON THE SCOPE A^D METHODS OF GEOGRAPHY.
151
to form ono large stre^hm presenting a tree-like appearanco on the map.
Secondly, we liave those which flow down the great furrows, tho Rennet
*ijd tho Thames below Beading on the one hand, tho Frome with itij
submarine prolongation by the Solent and Spitbead on the other. The
many tributaries of the Thamee are obvious, but the tree-like character
of the Fromo is not ohvioue unleBs its Bubmarine continuation be taken
into account. Then the Frome, tho vStour, the Avon, the Teat, the
I token, and the Medina, would combine to form one great stream,
baving its mouth east of the Isle of Wight. Such a river may very
probably have actually existed. Lastly, there are the Btreams which
pftfis by ravines right through the chalk ranges, tho Thames above
Beading, and the various small rivers of the Weald. This circumstance
is incomprehensible, unless wo suppose that tho strata arches were
formerly complete. Then these streams would flow down the even
slope of the ridge, following tho ordinary hydrostatic laws. Tho only
prominent feature of our area which would require a special explanation
apart from the flexure of tho rocks is the shingle hank which forms
Dungeness,*
This being the general anatomy of the land, what has been its
influence on man? In the midst of forest and marsh three broad
uplands stood out in early days^ great openings in which man could
establish himself with the letist resistance fiom nature. In the language
of the Celts they were known as '* Gwents," a name corrupted by tho
Imim conquerors into " Ventro." Thoy were tho chalk uplands with
which we were familiar, the arch*top of Salisbury Plain and Hampshire,
imd the terminal expansions of the chalk ranges in East Anglia and
Kent. In East Anglia was Yenta leenorum i in Kent and Canterbury f
we still have relics of another G went. The first syllahlo of Winchester {
a>mpletes the triplet. In later, but still early times, they were the
first nests of the three races which composed the German host. The
Angles settled in Norfolk and Suffolk, the Jutes in Kent, the Saxons in
Hampshire. In still later England, Winchester, Canterbury, and
Norwich were among the chief of medifeval cities. To this day the
isolation of two of these regions at least has left its traces in the marked
diaraoteristics of their populations. Tho Fens cut off Norfolk, tho Weald
forests shut in Keut. Their people have taken distinct positions in our
history. Tho *' men of Norfolk *' and the " men of Kent " have Ijeen of
a remarkably rebellious disposition.
• I haT© omitted in this eketoh to account for Leith Uill and
ex. They, too, d»?pend on the flexiUG of tlie rocka; but to
[ take up too muck e;paco id a pai>er wbich puiporta otdjr to
t to exhamt ita topic.
t 80 J. K. Green would hftfe it, 'JlaMng of Eugi
Taylor derivefi Kent from Centty a G&dhelio form of the C
je<jtioii'-' Words and Places,' 1885, p. 148.
I Venta BeJgaram.
Ii
152
ox THE SCOPE AND METHODS OF GEOGlUPKr.
There were four gi*eat citieB in tlie east and fioutli ; we have
i^ientiooed three. The fourth was Lotjdon, Geographical conditions
liave determined the greatness of the metropolis. The map %vill make
it clear at once, that the Fens and the AVeald would compel the lines of
communication from Norfolk and Kent on the one hand, and the rest of
England on the other to pass in the general direction of London. Kent
lies nearest to the Continent, and hence Watling Street was not merely
the Kentish road, but also the road to Flanders. Whero the hills
narrow the Thames marshes most there is the natural crossing of
Watling Street, first a ferry, then a bridge. This point lies between
Tower Eill and the heights of Dnl wit h and Sydeobam. Bermondsey,
the iele of Bermoud, was a dry spot, lising like a etepping-stonc from
among the sijrrounding marshes. The existence of solid ground on the
immediate banks of the deep water, which is necessary, as the " take-off'*
for a bridge or ferry, is also necessary for a landing-place. Here then
we have a crossing of natural ways on a tipot which is a natural
halting-placo for both, hence a point at which a city is certain to rise.
That cit}^ will bo the more imjwrtant if one way is by land and the
other by water, for it is then a place of transhipment. It will be still
more important if it is the necessary meeting-point of river and sea
traffic. Even more pregnant with meaning is the position of the Thames
month relatively to that of the Scheldt. It determines the linked great-
ness of London and Antwerp, and also much of the Continental policy of
England. Thus many causes conspire to maintain the greatness of
London. This is a fact to be marked. It is the secret of its persistent
growth from the earliest times. The iniportanoe of a given geographi-
cal feature varies with the degree of man's civilisation. A city which
depends on one pliysical advantage may fall at any moment. A single
mechanical discovery may effect the change.*
So ranch for the cities. Lastly as to the political divisionsp Therc^
are two tj^tes of political divisiona, natural and arbitrary. The contrast
presented by the old division of France into provinces and the revo-
lutionary division into departments will serve to indicate the distinction.
The one is the reenlt of an unconscious process » such as the accretion
of smaller states to a larger state. The other is the product of conscious
legislation. In Euglund we have the two kinds side by side. In the
midlands we have arbitrary divisions, counties named after their chief
towns, and supposed to have originated from the partition of Mercia.t
In the east and south, on the other hand, the counties are of natural
growth^ and bear names indicating their distinct origin. In the case of
I
* In tills a<?couiit of Ibo ** greatness " of LoqJod I Liivc not inilicated Ike full sigriii-
ficcmce of Tower Hill. The *' tluu '* or liill-fort no doubt decided the prtciiw locnUty
of London * but othor cauflM, as given alxive^ have detenniued its grcatne&a.
t Cbndder J. K. Greet), *Con4ii«'>t of Engloud/ 1S&3, p. 141, note. But compare
Isaac Taylor, * Wortla and Pbct-a,' 1^85, p. 179,
isy
QCtf or
US
fnn a tecc*:. «aier VKSzI ^oisj 3Xi0K fftjwal
id lacj ai€i» ^vi^ ^e <cf«tM& ^ ^CBier ti£ftsn5i^^
b "sam sf^m. ^vsr «» ^JrfMwg w^ol w>% mat msm ~
ii^aK «K&5^ tatfor n^TKuti&t ^ne^ aiec a loit
\f 'a^iiiSai^ii ia» namJk mid i€ 3ai(
of Q*9BUL. 15ut
't*- jt li* inzm. of 1
I
154 ON THE SCOPE AND METHODS OF GEOGRAPHr,
data* just as meteorology itself accepts the resulta of ph3raics. It is a
mifltake, especially of the GermanB, that thoy include too mnch in
geography* Geography has bearings on many subjects, but it does not
bodily include those subjects, E%'eii the great Pescliel includes in his
' Phyaische Erdkunde ' ♦ a discussion on the barometer and a demonstration fl
of the formnlfc needed in barometric corrections. Such digressions are ™
the CAUse of the often repeated charge that geographers are merely
dabblei*s in all the sciences. It is our contention that geography has a
separate sphere of work. Its data may overlap those of other sciences,
but its function is to point out certain new relations between those data.
Geography must be a continuous argument, and the test of whether a
given point is to be included or not must be this — la it pertinent to the
main line of argument ? How far digressionB with the view of proving ■
data are allowable must of course bo a practical question. As a mlc
they should be excluded if it is the function of any other science to
prove them,
Mr, Bryce's last category includes the productions of a region* The
distribution of minerals is obviously incidental to the rock-structure,
and wo need refer to it only to give another tap to the nail at which
we have been hammering previously. As regards the distribution of
animals and plants, we must apply the test to which we referred in the
last paragraph— How far is it pertinent to the main line of geographical
argument? So far as the animals and plants in question form an ap-
preciable factor in man's environment, so far their distribution is veiy
pertinent. So far also as that distribution gives evidence of geogra-
phical changes, suoli as the separation of islands from continents or a
retirement of the snow-line, so far it is also pertinent. But the study
of flie distribution of animals and plants in detail and as an aid to the
understanding of the evolution of those beings^ is in no souse a part of
geography. It ia a part of zoology or botany, for the proper study of
which a preliminary study of geography is necessary*
The truth of the matter ts that the bounds of all the sciences must
naturally be compromifies* Knowledgo, as we have said before, is one.
Its division into 8ul>ject8 is a concession to human weakness. As a final
example of this we will deal with the relation of geography to history.
In their elementary stages they must obviously go hand in hand. In
their higher stages they diverge* The historian finds full occupation
in the critical and comparative study of original docximents. He hat*
neither the time nor usually the turn of mind to scan science for him-
self with a view to selecting the facts and ideas which be requires. It
18 the function of the geographer to do this for him. On the other hand,
the geographer must go to history for tho verification of the relation n
which he suggests. The body of laws governing those relations, which
might in time be evolved, would render possible the writing of much
♦ Y<Sl, ii, pp. 118-127, 2iid edit.
ON THE SCOPE AND METHODS OF GEOGRAPHY,
155
k
>
'* preliistorio ** hi&toiy. Jolvn Kieiiard Green's * Making of England ' is
largely a deduction from geographical conditions of ^-hat mtist have
been the course of history.
It remains that I should eet ont what I conoeiT© to be tho main line
of geographical argument. 1 "v^ill do tliiB in two stages. The first will
be general, such as might be gathered from the syllabus of a university
course of lectures or from the table of contents at the beginning of a
text-book* The second will be a special application of this to the solution
of a defnite problem — the reasons why Delhi and Calcutta should have
been respectively the old and the new capitals of India,
We presuppose a knowledge of physiography. We would then start
from the idea of a landless globe, and l^uild up a conception of the earth
on the analogy of mechanics. First, the laws of Newton are demonstrated
in their ideal simplicity on the hypothesis of absolute rigiditj\ It is not
tintil those are fixed in tlie mind tlmt the counteracting tendencies of
elasticity and friction are introduced. So would we attack the study of
geography. Imagine our globe in a landless condition, composed that
i» of three concentric spheroids — atmosphere, hydrosphere, and litho-
sphere. Two great world-wide forces would be in action^-the sun^s
heat and the earth's rotation on its axis* Obviously the trade-wind
Bystem would have unimpeded sway. Next introduce the third set of
world-wide forces — ^tho inclination of the earth's axis to the plane of its
orbit and the revolution of the earth round the sun* The result would
be an annual march from tropic to tropic of the calm zone separating
the trades. The fourth and last of the causes which we have termed
world-wide would be the secular variation in the elliptioity of the
earth's orbit and in the obliquity of its axis. This would produce similar
variationfi in the annual march and in the intensity of the trade-wind
sjstenu
Thus far we have steered clear of longittidinal variations. Given
the latitude, the altitude, the season of year, and the year in the secular
period, and the climatic conditions are deducible from very few data,
Xow we abandon our priman^' hypothesis. Conceive the world as it is,
ai heated, aa cooling, as shrinking, as wrinkling. It was heated, it is
cooling, therefore it is shrinking, and the outer more chiUed crust is in
Ponsequence wrinkling- The lithosphere is no longer concentric with
the atmosphere and tho hy*lroBphere. The betl of the ocean is thrown
into ridges and furrows. The ridges project into the hydrosphere, and
tbrongh the hydrosphere into the atmosphere. They act as obstacles in
111© way of the world-currents. The}* may bo compared to the stones in
the bed of a rapid stream on which the currents impinge and are diverted,
lliey either leap over them or are ^plit upon them. This purely mecha-
nical action is well seen^ in the splitting of the Southern E>}uatoriiil
Drift on Cape San Ho<[ue. Cape San Boque has a distinct influenco on
tho climate of England, The " leaping-over " action 10 visiblo i
I
156
ON THE SCOPE AKD METHODS OF GEOGRAPHY.
case of wiads rising over mountain-cliams, and as a conacqtienc© ooveriiig
their slopes with moiBtiire. Btit» in atldition to the lueclmmcal, there
are thermal causes of variation, duo mainly to the different specific heats
of land and water — hence the monaoonfl^ The lie of tbo gre^t wrinkles
has a special meaning. Were the ccmtinonts extended east and west
instead of in three great bands across the Eqtiator, climate would be
approximately indexed by latitude. ■
Thus may we Bteadil3^ progress in the analysis of the world s sur-
face. Conceive the world as Ian J less, and you will see the motor-powers
of air- and water-circulation. Replace your conception by one of a
wrinkled w^orld, and yuu will grasp how by mechanical obstruction
and thermal irregularity your simple cuiTents are differentiated into
currents of almost infinite but still orderly complexity.
But we must advance a stage further. The form of the lithospher©
is not fixed. The shrinkage is still in progress. Old wrinkles are
raised and new wrinkles come into existence. As they rise their
destruction commences. The currents ever work at the removal of the
obstacles which obstruct their course. They tend to achieve the ideal
simplicity of circulation. Thus the features of the earth's surface are
constantly changing. Their precise form is determined by their past
history as well aj9 by their present conditions, Becent changes are the
subject of one of the most fascinating chapters in geography. Plains
are built by the accumulation of debris. Continents give birth to
islands. The evidence is drawn from a hundred sonrces — from the lines
of migration of birds, the distribution of animals, or the depths of then
neighbouring seas. ^
Each successive chapter postulates what has gone before. The
sequence of argument is nnbroken. From the position of the obstacles
and the course of the winds may be deduced the distribution of rain.
From the form and distribution of the wTinkle-slopes and from the dis-
tribution of the rainfall follows the explanation of the diainage-system.
The distribution of soils is mainly dependent on the rock-structure, and
on a consideration of soil and climate follows the diirision of the world
into natural regions based on vegetation. 1 am not here referring to the
dlstribntion of botanical species, but to that of the broad types of whalfli
may be called the vegetable clothing of the world — the polar and tropical
deserts, the temperate and tropical forests^ and the regions which may
be grouped together as grass-plains* ^d
Passing now to the second stage of the investigation, it will be well '
to make nsc of two technical terms. ** An environment '* is a natural
region. The smaller the area included the greater tends to be the
number of conditions uniform or nearly uniform throughont Iho area.
Thus we have environments of difierent orders, whose extension and
intension, to borrow a logical phrase, vary inversely. So with communi-
ties, ** A community " is a gioup of men having certain characteristics
OS THE 9O0i% ASD MEIHODS OF GfiOGfiAFHT. 157
Tike SBiller ikt oommnnitT, tbe greater teads to be the
of eoauMB dtaracteristics^ GiniiBiimiues are of different
ordets — rftces. natiotR, |stnrincefi, towns — the last two expreaaoMiB used
n tfe fiCBse of cQipsKmte S^^o^P" <^ bmb. Bt iht use of thfose two tenns
i cui be giTCB to sack disrassKHis as the effects of erpadng two
; to one CBTiroiiBent, and ooe cxanmnnitT to two eiiTiroii>
For iBstaikce. this — ^How have geograpbical conditicits diff^-
a^ed the Eagiisk race in the thi>ee cnTiionmentB, Britain, America,
aadAMtnlia?
Eiiei»»begp political qaertiops will depend on the reediltB of Utie
ph jmeal inqnirr. Certain oonditiaDS of climate and soil are needed for
^t aggiegatkn of dense popalatioD&. A certain density of population
seems pj^rnMatu to the developaient of civilisation. In the ligbt of SBcb
principles wosld be discnased sndi problems as the contrast between
the aBcient iqiland cirilisatianB of tlie New Worid, Peni and MexicQ, and
the SDcaent lowland QvilJsatinns of the Old World, ^rp^ ^^nd Babjkm.
Again, eanqisxmtxTelT nndistwrbed strata nsnallT nnd^lie wide plains,
and wide plains seem ^wciall j favoaraUe to the dend^^Nnoit of homo-
geaecws neea, like the Bnssians and the Chinese. Yet agaia, the dis-
tnbatian of animal, regetable, and mineral prodncts has done much to
detenaine the local diaiacteristicB of ctrilisation. Consider in this
reject the saies {H^sented bj the OH World, the New World, and
Aastralia in the matter of comparative irealth in cereals and beasts of
bsiden.
One of the most interesting copters would deal with the reaction of
■an on nature. Man alters his aivinHunent, and the action of that oi-
Tiionm»it <m his posterity is dianged in consequence. The relative im-
portanoe of physical features varies &om age to age according to the state
of knowledge and of material civilisation. The improvement of artificial
lifting has rendered posslUe the eristence of a great communis at
St Petetsborg. The discovoy of the Cape ronte to India and of the
Sew World led to the Ml of Venice. The invention of the steam
engine and the electric telegraph have rendered possible the great
aae of modem States. We might multiply sudi instances greatly.
We might group them into categories, but our object t«>day is
laerdy to indicate the possilnlities of the subject. One thing, how-
erer, must always be borne in mind. The course of history at
a givm moment, whether in politics, sodety, or any other sphere of
human activity, is the product not cmly of environment but also of the
mmnentum acquired in the past The fact that man is mainly a
creature of habit must be recognised. The Englishman, for instance,
win put up with many anomalies nntil they become nuisances of a
certain degree of virulence. The inffuence of this tendency must always
be kept in mind in geography, llilford Haven, in the present state
of things, offers far greater physical advantages than liveipoiA for the
ha nL— ILlsch 1887.] v
158 ON THE SCOPE AND METHODS OF GEOGRjVPHV. ^^H
American trado ; yet it is improbable tbat Liverpool will bave to give
way to Milford Haven, at any rate in the immediate future. It is a caeo
of vis inertiw.
Wo propose pa Being now to the special illustration which we have
promised. We will start fr<(ra the fountain-hoad. From the buh's heat
and the earth s rotation wo demonstrate the trade-wind system. From
the influence of that heat on the vast maes of Asia we deduce tho
monsoon variation of the system. Witbin the monsoon area are col-
lected some seven hundred out of the eight hundred millions of
Asia. Itight athwart the south-west monsoon extends the Himalaya.
The moieture of the Indian Ocean in conse<|nence deluges its soutbem
face. Thus the full importance of the direction of the mountain-chain
IB brought out. The rains have washed down from the mountains the
debris which fonns the fertile plain at their base. HeneCj along the
southern foot of tho Himalaya wo have a belt of country possessing
the conditions of climate and soil needed to sustain a large population*
In effect we find two-fiftbs of the pojmlation of the entire peninsula
concentrated in the provinces of Bengal, the North-west, and the Punjab,
althoiigb these three provinces have btit little more than ono-eixth the
area. Moreover, tho abundant moisture of the monsoon coupled with
the height of the Himalaya (the height is a consequence of the com-
parative newness of the \\Tinkle) produce an abundant glacial system
from above the snowline. One result of this is that the rivers of the
plain are perennial, and constantly navigable. Tints we have two con-
ditions favourable to the development of civilisation, density of population,
and case of eommnnication.
A wealthy civilised community is a region tempting to the conqueror.
Now conquerors are of two kinds — land-wolves and sea-wolves. How
would these respectively gain access to their prey in the Ganges valley ?
Consider first the landward frontier of India. On the north-east the
Himalaya is practically impassalde to a host.* On the north-west is
the Sulaiman range, pierced by many passes. From the Iranian uplands
of which this range is the boundary wall have swept down successive
waves of conquerors. But within the mountain line is a far more effective
obstacle, tho Thar or great Indian desert, with its continuation the
Bann of Katch. This barrier extends parallel to tho Sulaiman Moun-
tains from the sea almost to tho Himalaya* Between the desert and the
foot of the Himaliiya the ferl ile belt is narrowest. Through that gate
must pass whoever would gain access to the Ganges valley, Alexander
advanced to its entrance. When he swerved to the right and followed
the Indus, India was saved. Close to tho eastern end of the pass is
Delhi. It stands at the head of the Jumna-Ganges navigation, the
place of transhipment from land to water carriage. It is therefore a
• ODly one (exception is recorded by history, A Cbinese army once fiucceeded in
reachmg Nepaoi
ON THE SCOPE AND METHODS OF GEOGRAPHT. 159
natural centre of ccmmeroe. It is also the natural base of operations
for the Asiatic conqueror, his left flanked by the mountains, his right
by the desert, his line of communications secure to the rear. The
strat^ic importance of the region has not escaped the British. Here
is Simla, the summer capital of India. Here also the army cantonments
are most thickly sown. Here are the fields of many battles. So much
for DelhL Now for Calcutta. From the sea India is singularly in-
accessible. The eastern shore is beaten by a heavy surf. We have had
to construct a harbour at Madras at great expense. The western coast
has many good harbours, but in its rear rises the steep slope of the
Western Ghats. Drenched by the monsoon, they are densely clothed
with forests, which to this day are the abode of some of the mcst
savage races of the world. Behind Bombay railways have now been
carried over the mountains, but until recently they must have been
a most effectual barrier to communication. The Portuguese settled
at Goa» and could not advance. The English possessicm at Bombay
was our earliest in India,* yet the Presidency of Bombay was the last
to grow. The one great natural water-gate is by the mouth of the
Ganges. Here, on the Hoogly, the British established themselves at
Calcutta. It is the place of junction of river and sea shipping, and
therefore a commercial centre. It is also the natural basis of operations
for the conquerors from over the sea. From it they have extended their
influence far and wide. The old presidencies of Bombay and Madras
liave ea<^ been succeeded by a single province, but the Presidency of
Bengal has b^otten Bengal, the North-west, the Punjab, and th&
Central Provinces ; we might almost add Assam and Burma. Thus, to
earn up, at the two ends of the fertile belt are the two gates of India —
the Khafbar Pass and the Hoogly. Along that belt the great highway
is the Jumna-Ganges. At either end of the river navigation stands a
strategical and commercial capital, Delhi on the one hand, C^cuttaf
on the other.
Thus we complete our survey of the methods and scope of geography.
I believe that on lines such as I have sketched a geography may be
worked out which shall satisfy at once the practical requirements of the
statesman and the merchant, the theoretical requirements of the historian
and the scientist, and the intellectual requirements of the teacher. Its
inherent breadth and manysidedness should be claimed as its chief
merit. At the same time we have to recognise that these are the very
qualities which wiU render it ^ suspect " to an age of specialists. It
would be a standing protest against the disintegration oi culture with
* Onr euliest poBsevkm. We had heUaiea at Smat and at Fori 81. George aome-
whatearlia:
t Oa]eiitU=Kali Katfta— the village of the goddeas KalL Thia anggests the
qneatioii, Wh j abould Uiia particular Tillage hare riaen to be a metvopolia rather than
aoj other village? I would pvopoae the tezm ** geographical adectkn'' Cor the pcooeas
<at the analogy of** natural adectjon."
V 2
160 OK THE SCOrE AND METHODS OF GEOGRArHY.-^DISCUSSION.
which we are threatonud. In the dajs of our fathers the ancient claaaicB
were the common element in the culture of all men, a ground on which
the S|>ecialista could meet. The world is c hangings ancl it would seem
that the classicfl are also becoming a Bpeciality. Whether we ref^ret the
tuni whic'i things have taken or whether wo rejoice at it, it ia equally
our duty to find a subetitute. To me it seems that geography combines
some of the requisite qualities. To the practical man, whether ho aim
at distinction in the State or at the amassing of wealth, it is a store of
invaluable information; to the student it is a stimulating basis from
which to set out along a hundred special lines ; to the teacher it would
be an implement for the calling out of the powers of the intellect, unless
indeed to that old-world class of flchot>lmaster who measure the difl-
ciplinarj value of a subject by the repugnance with which it inspires
the pupil. All this we say on the assumption of the unity of the
subject. The al tentative is to divide the scientific from the practical.
The result of its adoption will be the ruin of both. The practical will
bo rejected by the teacher, and will be found indigestible in after life.
The scientific will bo neglected by most men, because it lacks the element
of utility in every*day life. The man of the world and the student^ the
scientist and the historian, will lose their common platform. The
world will be the poorer.
The dbcussion on the foregoing paper was adjourned to the next following
meeting, February 14th.
On that evening (General R. SrajLcnET^ Yice-Preaident, in the chair) the dis-
cussion was opened by Mr. Mackinder &s follows :^
Mr, Chairaion, I nm asked to say a few words to you bj way of analysis of the
paper which I laid before you on the last occasion. It is obviously impoeatHe for
mo to give you an exbanstive analyt^iB, because the paper itself, in spite of ita
length, was necessarily more or leas of the natnre of on epitome. 1 think, however,
it will be possible for me by grouping the ideas, such as they are, in a somewhat
different way, to place the salient points almost in a nutshell. If I were asked to
describe geography roughly I should venture on the assertion that it is the science
of distributioD, the science, that is, which traces the arraDgenjent of thiogs in general
on the earth's surface. Since it is a science it is not sufficient to rest content with
recording, however accurately and skilfully, the places of things on the earth'n
surface. After using our various obiscrving instruments, after making maps as care*
fully as ever you will, it is necessary that we should pass on to consider what
lelations hold between the distributions of various sots of features on the earth':*
surface, and what are the causes of tho&e distributioDs. Let mo give a oomparison
with some other science. Take that of astrooouiy. I will ask you to remember that
the astronomer spends a very large portion of his time in using the telescopci in
mioutely observing and recording facts ^itli regard to the heavenly bodies^ but you
would not say that a scieDC© of the heavenly bodies existed unless you showed that
there were laws governing their movements and great forc«;ft holding the solar
.systems together. If we apply these ideas to geography I tliiuk we shall see how
the various chapters may be strung together in natural sequence. I do not pretend
that these suggestions aro new. My aim ia simply to show a method which some
1) t tie experience in teaching has proved to be available— such as will be fitted to
ON THE SCOPE AND METKGDS OF GHOGfLVrHV,— DISCUSSION.
IGl
the higber dasses m UniTemtiea and stifficieotly digniUcil for men to make tbc
subject their life studj.
We start m\h the conception of tho world as a kndlesa globe, I believe tbata
useful expedient for tbia reason — ^tbat there are isome phenomena, such as the trade
winds, which are more or less independent cf the difitrihution of land and water.
On the principle that a person who baa an untmined ear for music would prefer
heariDg " Homej Sweet Home " on a flute, to hearing It with full orchestral acoora-
paniraent, so we prefer clearing away many sets of causes when we first apj^roach
the oonfideration of the earth. Then we go on to consider the land and sea distri-
buted {Ls they are* Juat as^ in the case of a stone standing in the way of a stream
going down a hill, the stream has to split upon it, go round it, or go over it, so w.
the same way the great currents impinging on the land, either swerve to right or to
left, or split upon it^ or in Ihe case of winds have to leap over it, and therefore we
get a complex state of affairs out of a simple set of causes. Thertforo we see that
precise topography is a necessary tbiog if we are to have a proper expknatiou of
the actually observed distributions of currents both in the air and water,
Passing from that, if I look at a headland projecting into the sea, I cannot help
feeling that there must be some cause for the place which that headland holds, aud
for its shape, aod I cannot help feeling, from the analogy of other sciences, that if I
knew that cause and compared it with the causes of other things^ I should be able
to see that they were related, and so should be able to work out a law of considerable
simplicity where apparently we have great irregularity of distribution. Geologists
seem to be agreed on this, that the shape of the earth's surface is due to the inter-
actioa of two tet^ of causes— upheaval and ruin. The forces of upheaval, even so
conservative a geologist as Sir William Dawson agrees, are the result of the gradual
shrinking of this earth, producing what I call wrinkling, and others folding or
corrugation in the earth's surface. Then we have the forces of ruin — frost, wind,
nin and ao forth, brought to bear upon it, chiselling it. When you look at a ruiu
it is at first sight exceedingly disorderly, and until yon have seen what wore the
relations of its parts in the past, that disordt^r continues. So with this earth. If
you understand the arraogemeDt of the rock- folds you are in a position to understand
the actual distribution of the present fiatures* There is in this month's * Fro-
ceedingB* (February No.) a most excellent application of this method of describing
the features of a country by means of the wrinkles. The paper by Dr. Nauraann,
on Japan, which has been so generally praised, contains a passage which runs as
follows : *• The study of geology in j list as indispensable to the orographer as the
Btndy of anatomy is to the sculptor. Ko clever artist would think of rcpreiscnting
the beauties of the human form as those of a hollow figure. The pliysical features
of Japan present a fine example for the verification of the intimate and mutual
dependence of those sciences whose object is otir globe* After having made ourselves
acquainted with the general laws of geological structure wc shall be better enabled
to understand the language of the external features of that part of the surface we
are at present dealing with,'' Ho practically applies his idea and gives a map on
which he ^hows the ** Line of folds," Having got the distribution of the earth's
snriace we come to work out the distribution of other things. The rainfall obviously
depends on the profile of the eanh's surlace, the soils on the distribution of climates*
mod rainfall. Then the general vegetable clothing of the earth — ^forests, grass lands,
and such like — all follow on what we have previously studied. So with regard tu
man, the same laws apply, only the nppliciaiuns are more complicated, because we
have to study the distribution not only of races, but also of numerous attributes of
man, languages, religions^ political organi^tiona and forms of civilisation. Ag^o,
♦iiijce man is a moving creature we have to study phyBicat featurci«, not only as
i
162 ON THE SCOPE ANB METHODS OF GEOGRAPHY,— DISCUSSION,
determiDing wliether the region in whicli be dwells eholl be favoumble or not, but
also as impediments in bis %vajr, whetber be pasaes m an arm j» in migration, or as a
nomad*
From all ibis It will be seen tbat it is necessary to do two tbings — to base our
physical geogra[)by to a great extent on geolog3% and to combine physical and
IxiUtical geograpby together, I bave defined geograpby in the way wbicb I have
for the following reasons, 1 believe that nine out of ten studtnta who approach
geography wiO necessarily approach it from the human standpoint, Tbey wish to
study the world as man's environment. I use the word environmeot, because
Mr. Bryce has made that term a received one in geography. In order to understand
the distribution of man it is neeessary to understand that of the physical features.
We have thus a science in which essentially the same methods are applied from
beginning to end. But it la the culminating stage which postulates all that has
gone before that bas a general interest. I do not mean to say that for purposes of
original investigation some people will not choose to confine themselves to inanimate
nature, but 1 say that for a general basis it is necessary to study the physical features
in order chiefly to understand the distribution of man. I believe that a considerable
number of those who will take part in the discussion this evening bave seen my
ideas set out in print in a more connected form than it was poasihle for me to show
them on the last occasion or would l>e on the present. I will therefore only say
in reply to a criticism which bas been current, to the effect that whatever value my
ideas may have from a theoretical point of view, they are impracticable for teaching
purposes', that since last Octol>er, I have had an opix>rtuuity of lecturing to 1200
people, and I find that even elementary lectures^ set out on the plan I bave suggested,
have been more or less successful in interesting i>eo]>le. In conclusion, if the ideas I
have put forward, however much criticised (and I hope they will be criticised),
result in our arriving at a more or less general opinion as to what the scoi>e of geo-
graphy is, I shall he amply graiibed (or any trouble I have taken*
Sir Frederic Goldsmid wished to explain in a few %vords the reason of bis
coming before the meeting. Hearing that a paper about to be read in these rooms
contained something in the form of onslaught on a position taken up by himself in
an address to the Geograpbiciil Section of the British Association at Birmingham in
September last — and finding that other engagements would prevent his attendance
at the meeting — he procured a *."0|iy of the paper aforesaid, and wrote dow^n some
hurried remarks to be retid on the occasion by a kind substitute. It so happened
that when the lecturer's task was completed, no time for discussion was available,
and hia notes were returned. Now that they were met to di^iuss the last meeting's
imper, and that the reading of these notes would spare the audience perhaps a more
rambling statement and economise time, he ventured to recur to them in fulfilment
of the object for which tbey were originally designed.
Tlie passage quoted in proof of hia (Sir Frederic's) tripping was this: " It is
diflicult to reconcile the amalgamation of what may be considered 'scientific
geography ' with history. One is as thoroughly apart from the other as geology is
from astronomy.** Presently be would quote another passage in which the offence
is even greater, and defined with like precision. But he (Sir Frederic) was speaking
of geography in the sense of what may bo called its mathematical treatment, and his
critic took bim as referring to scientific theory and deduction. He (Sir Frederic) was
in the material world with the practical surveyor and his outdoor apiiaratua. His
critic pictured him in the world of speculation in which historian and geographer find
a common ground. It was a misconception of meaning, a confusion of tcrms^ — in
fact, of theories with theodolites.
Setting aside the actual charge of making proposals " fatal to the best prospects
OK THE SCOPE AND METHODS OF GEOGRAPHY%— DISCUSSION.
163
of geography," it might B«^em unwarrantable on his (Sir Frederick) part, after the
able and exhaufltive discourse delivened a fortnight ago, to take up the time of the
meeting with an answer to a personal alhision expressed in the brie teat of terms.
But as the duooorse itself bears, as it were, almost wholly upon that personal
allnsioD, and is in fact one expansive comment on an individual uttorauce for which
lie was held reaponaible, a reply of some kind would be admitted to be necessary.
He was not going to disavow the words which had been quoted from his address
to the Geographical Section at Binningham, though he could not help regretting
that the passage selected fur objection was not one morn expressive of the general
tendency and manifest object of that address. Indeed, had it been considered in
reference to the remainder, it would have been evident that his meaning in fshowiuga
eompilete separation between history and "scientific geography ,** was to imlicate wliat
he might call the comprehensive ** nnity "of the latter branch of study, and to
suggest the incorporation into history of a newly constituted "political geography "
containing, he might add, very much the kind of teaching which has been aptly
illustrated by the present lecturer. Questions such as density or sparseness of popu-
lation, and contrast between upland and lowland civihsations — all these matters
naturally appertain to history. Nor would he pronounce as foreign to the same
sphere of teaching that eloquent paragraph of theoretical topography which, in the
paper read at the last meeting, accounts for the growth and greatness of London. In
fact^ when speaking of "political geography etrippod of its purely scientific belong-
ings,^ he (Sir PVederic) made no reference to those broad lines of ** science,'* the value
of which in historical research no true student of history can deny, nor to that light
of *• science " which gives a reality to the historical f^age — but to those belongings
which imply rather practice than theory, a^d the presence of the surveyor and
engineer than of the geographer en grand. Let his words be analysed : — " Tbe mean-
ing of the verbal combination * political geography* requires some kind of analysis.
Conventionally, and in an educational sense, it is the description of the political or
arbitrary divisions and limits of empires, kingdoms, and states ; their inhabitants,
towns, natural productions, agriculture, manufactures, and commerce, as well aa laws,
modes of government and social organisation^-every thing beiDg viewed with rcfereDce
to the artificial divisions and works made by man. Accepting this interpretation of
t^ objecte, who can hesitate to admit its palpable and immediate relation to history ?
The mathematical science which investigates the physical character of territory and
territorial boundaries is in this case but a sGcondary requii-eraentand can be always
fairly disposed of in the recognition of results." >!eed he add that the question of
** man*fl environment," on Mr. Bryce's conception of which ht< had occasion to sj-icak
a little later, was not for a moment contemplated as one of tbe *^ secondary require-
ments " here noted. He was told by those who had taken the trouble to consider his
address in its entirety, that, in the view taken, he dwelt too much on the " fieldwork
of geography," the results of which are seldom, if ever, questioned by the reading public
and are accepted by the writer of history as he accepts the journeys and researches in
libranes. If, indeed, his argument be weak, he admitted that it is in this particular
aspect it shows its most vulnerable pomt ; but he was prepared to defend the position
by the teaching of his own experience. Tins, however, was not the point on which
he was now assailed ; he was supposed to apply the word ** scientific " to that which
comprehends the physical causes and connections of the earth's features, and such was
not in this instance his intention. He referred to that branch of geography which,
to be duly apprehended, demands in the student a mathematical rather than a
theoretical turn of mind. To this head belong much that comes within the purport
of topography, physiography, cartography, trigonometrical survey, and the mechanism
whidi necessitates acquaiutance with the instruments and appliances of geography,
164 ox THE SCOPE AXD METHODS OF QEOGRAPHTT.'^DISCUSSION. ^
and their reapectiTe uses. Physical geography, and the thousand and one theories
involved in its cods idem ti on ^ helong nndonbtedly to history, and cannot be exclnded
from the programio© of study prepared for iho use of ndvaoced hitftorical claBses.
But the gist of his argument was Ihia. To popularise geograpliy, the method of
study mnat be such as to suit the mental biaa of the pnpil. Call the principle
advocated '* A concesBion to human weakness " if you will ; but so long as human
nature is weak> the fact must be acknowledged, and treatment regu!att^d accordingly.
There may be present at the ordinary meetings of the Royal Geographical Society
those who appreciate and eojoy ** I rave Hers* tales" more than ** travellers' ^B
geogra^jhy.^ They may bo weak, hut their weakness must be admitted as a factor^
in the matter of providing the public with |K>pular [i^apors.
A story had been related to him which illustrates the case. Some ^ears pnat* a
gentleman well known to the Society was about to read a paper, with one of our
most esteemed Presidents in the chair* The latter remarked on its length. " What
shall I leave out ? " asked the reader ; "the adventures ? ** ** No;' was tbe ready
reply : ** the geography ; you can print that afterwards " So is it with the outaide
world, and those classes whom it is wished to attract towards a neglected study.
It is not, then, tbe ** division of the scientific from the practical " w hich be
ventured to recommend ; but the creation of a chair for geography in its most
compreheDsivc form, combining the eci en tide and the practical, or what Is theoretical
with what is material, matter-of-fact, or perhaps mechanical On the other hand, he
would combine with history — for which chairs exist— certain elements of this
"scientific" or universal geography, such as are rather included in the term
** political " than under any other now recognised head, — " irrational," ho granted,
in failing " to trace causal relations," but subject, in this aa in other respects, to re-
cast and revision. This, it will be found, was precLiely the course which he before
propoBcd^not as the result of any intricate investigation, but tbe natural outcome of
jjcrsoual observation.
He submitted, with all deference, that scientific geography, as tangbt from the
chair, should make the accomplished geographer, historian, and man of science
combined : history, with its geographical supplement, the diplomatist. There is no
claishing here, and no danger that I can see to the cause of science. To those who
did him the honour of reading, or liiitening to the Birmiogham address, his object will
be evident. It is set forth in the following paragraph :—
** It must be boroe in mind that our governments or geogmphical societies, our
boards or our Universities— whichever distinguished body takes the matter in hand,
separately, it may be^ or in concert^ — will have to cater for a multitude of pupils, and
that, whatever change eventually takes place in the programmes of study, the
division of school teaching into two great representative branches, classics and
mathematics, is a practice which has hitherto, at most public schools, resisted the
shock of ioDovation, The maintenance of this lime-hononretl custom is not so much,
to my mind, an illustration of conservative principle — ihat^ w'e all know, is jxjwer-
less against national progress— as the assertion of a xjrofound truth, similar to that
which in the region of language sejiarates the Semitic from the Aryao category of
tongues. It is a recognition of the distinctioa which exists in tho human organi-
sation between mind and mind — a distincticn apparent in the boy as in the man,
at school as at college — ia the battle of life itself, as in the period of preparation
for battle. I do not mean to imply that all school studies fall essentially under
one or other of these divisions ; but 1 do believe that the student'^ progress will be
la accordance with his idiosyncrasies ; that the student's taste should be considered
in the inaster*a eystim ; and that, in dealiug with geography, we ought not to
throw it wholesale into the hands of the professor or reader, but wjiarate it to suit
ON THE SCOPE AND METHODS OF GEOGRAPHY.— D13<:aSS10N.
165
the capacity of the ckfiical as of the mathematical intelligence, so that the one part
oome within the province of history and art, the other within the limits of unadul-
tcAted science. Attention to both sections should be imperative, so far as attention
to claaeicaand mathematics ia imperative, but the standard of competence attained
IQ either mu^t defiend on the mind and bent of the pupil who might readily excel
in one but fall short in the other, not heiag even distinguished if the suljject of study
were undivided/*
Plainly and finally. Establish a chair for geography, pur et simple. The
professor occupyiog it may be left to impart to his teaching as much history as he
pleads ; there is no rule or cumpulsion here. On tho other hand, biatory i^ more or
less dependent on geography, and it were wlU to define precisely what and how much
of the science it should borrow from the geograpliic^vl chair. His own impression bad
been that "political ge(^mpby" fibould meet all its possible requirements; but,
unfortunately, political geography, as now understood, would have to bo reconsidered
and recast. Here, tbeo, ia the aeiiaration — or one sepamtion^he would especially
advocate, and for this reason. There are many pupils whose minds are so constituted
that, wbile content to study both sciences with ardour, they are likely to attain ex*
ccUenc© in one only, and where that one is hiistory, the supplement of geography
iucluded in it, if carefully chosen, might impart that very essential qualilication for
the higher services of State, which is the real cause of political usefulaess and im*
dying reputatiom
Mr. Frakcis Galtok said the word " geography,** like many others, was used
in different senses, so they ought to be grateful to Mr. Mackinder for the effort he
had made to frame a de Coition that should combine the suffrages of most people.
For his own part he thought tliat an eveu simpler definition waa ix)ssible, namely,
that the art of geography was to give a vivid and connected account of the more
intereating charge terii^tics of s^%cified districts. The art of giving a vivid account
was an extremely rare one. He was sure tbey must have heard in that room many
eminent travellers who read accounts of their journeys, and yet the meeting obtained
from them but a very slight idea of the country tbey had visited, it was extra-
wrdinary how weak ordinary kmguage was in expressing visual objects. Who could
describe a face in that room in such a way that another person who had never seen
it before, should recognise it when seen ? The same remark applied to countries.
ITiey read bouks about a country and then they went there, and found it to be
entirely different from what they expected. Now one of the arts of the geo*
aphicat teacher was to bring vividly before the raind of the learoer what he
rjsbcd to convey, so as to put the learner as far as possible in the position of one
who had actually been to the country. That art was somewhat developed, but
needed to be developed a groat deal more by illustrations, photographs, dec Another
art of the geographical teacher was to give a connected or rational account. He did
not himself think so much as others of the possibilities of geography as a science ;
it^was well to have a high project, hut when tbey endeavoured to reason out tlie
conditions of a country, they found that at the present time tbey knew very Ettle
about the interaction of the various forces of nature. Tbey could go a certain
disitanoe ; they (»uld easily follow as far as a shrewd intelligent man could go, who
had at the same time a little more than a bmatiering of the principal sciences ; but
to suppose that any one could really reason out a geographical problem in all its
completeoess in the same way that be could a mechanical or a mathematical one,
seemed to him to be supposing a great deal loo much. To recur to the deiuition,
Vfchat were the interesting characteristics of a oouutry ? There were different people
tu be interested ; that which intereated the strategist did not interest the artist or the
merchant ; so the geographical teacher bad to consider the main wants and wishes of
186
ON THE SCOPE A^D METHODS OF GEOGRAPfiY^^BISCUSSEON.
moBkind, and to imme his book or teacblug accord mgl jr. At tbc j^resent time tho i
lioiies for the Letter leachiDg of geography seemed to bo in a critical stage. Last
week a deptitatioD of thnio members of the council met the committee appointed by
the governing body of the Univeraity of Oxford, consisting of the present Vice-
Chancelior^ the late A^ice- Chancellor, and three other distinguished members of the
University, and that committee manifested, so far as they were individually con-
cerned, a sympathy and a desire to help the objects of the deputation. During:
the present week another deputation would go down to Cambridge to have an inter-
view with the authorities there* Both Univcrsitiea were at length clearly waking up^
and beginning to practically throw themselves into the cause of geography. At this
critical time it was a great thing to have a gentleman Uke Mr. Mackinder, of
Uuiversity distinction, who knew his own mind, who had attracted large audiences
in the provinces, who was enthusiastic in geography, a believer in his cause, and
who, he was sure, would leave no stone unturned to further the inttirests of geo-
gmphy — it was a great thing to have such a man taking so [jromincnt a j)art, and
ho had very little doubt that however much Mr. Mackinder*M theories might be
criticised, or whatever mistakes he might make, be was destined to leave his mark
on geographical education,
Mr, T. W, Buxs (Head Master, Bath College) said his preaenoe at the meeting
was accounted for by a very paradoxical reason, namely, that he was very ignorant
of the science of geography, and wanted to say that the very fact of his ignorance
was some reproach against the present state of geographical teaching in the land.
It had failed to attract him throughout a life devoted to many brancbes of learning.
It had not commended itself to him in its present form as an instrument of instruc-
tion. He had observed that both teachers and learners of the better order of mind
found the subject of geography uninTiting, and would have as little of it as they
poBfiibly could. He found also that those minds to whom it did recommend itself
were of the order of those who were content to rest in facts without rising into
principles. Ho must demur to the view tbat Sir Frederic Goldsmid set forth that
the subjects taught to the young should humour their weaknesses and idiosyncrafiies.
It seemed to him that if a boy had an imperfect organisation, and a faulty physi«^
development, it became gymnastic not to let him move in those modes which were
easy to him, but to adopt those modes which were most helpful for him w^en he
had overcome the preliminary difllculiies of being set right. Among his own
boys, some few years ago, two, in almost successive years, obtained the Society's
medal, but tliey were boys of singular inaptitude for studies of a nobler sort, and he
could not but thinkj from what he saw of them, that he had been indulging them in
their devotion to a catalogue of topographical facts — in a weakness that he ought to
have corrected. It was his fortune to have the conduct of a school which was dis-
tributed under two heads, the classical and the modem side. The modern side,
where geography was chiefly taught, laboured under the great diflaculty, that
there was no centrct no backbone to the studies tbat the boys pursued ; con-
fiequcntly they were disintegrated. Their minds were in no way instructed and built
up, and it occurred to him that this science of geography, if it were established on some
such baRis aa his friend Mr. Mackinder had sketched, would servo schools in excellent
stead. It was not his purpose to start a new definition of geography, but it seemed
to him tbat geograpby was very well defined in Mr. Mackinder 's language as the
science of distributions. It would occur to every one that there was nothing which
was not distributed on the carth*8 surface, and, therefore, if geography was a science
of things distributed there was nothing which did not come under the science. It
w^as a science primarily of the distribution of the atr, which was meteorology ; it was a
Bcienoe of the diBtribution of land and water ; it was a science of the distribution of
ON THE SCOPE AND MKTHODt; OF GEOOftAPHV.— DISCUSSION,
1C7
I
I
amtnalg^ which waa zoology — of plaats, which was botany — of minerals, which was
minemlogy — moreover, it was a science of military iwsts, and then it was military
geography; audi indeed, a German of cnrioiia ioquiry had been mapping out tht*
locality of genius of different kinds, so Ihat it wa« also the science of human
ficulti<^ It was post hope that any man could be found to combine all thogc
various elements. But if so defined, geography helped to teach tbe inter-
dependence of knowled^^e, and in all schooU there was great danger of breaking up
the minds of the boys in «iiecial subjects ; but geography, founded on lis new basis,
would afford a common meeting ground, on which all the sciences were heard, and
a boy who read hia history by the light of geography would be tempted to take
to geography in the form of history with delight. A boy who icarnt the distribution
of plants, learut much geography incidetitaUy ; a boy who learnt zoology would
take interest in the geographical aspect of the distribation of animals; and so
geography was fitted to brin;^ all these sciences face to face, and to teach much
of their interdependence, 'and give the boy that unity of knowledge which was
so much required. It ap|ieared to him to be much as though a man should
profess general medicine and not be a specialist in practice. They might go to
the general practitioner for advice with regard to any common ailment, and so they
oouLl go to a geographer for general information with regard to any i»art of the face
of the globe. Geography, taught on the principle which Mr. Mackiudcr advo-
catedy would tend to induce in the niiods of the boys in the modem sides of
schools a disjtosition to regard knowledge as a whole. He would be extremely
grateful to any professor at cither or both of the Universities wbo would put into
the hands of schoolmasters some text^book which would combine so much of all
thaw sciences as might be taught to schoolboys under the head of gcoi^raphy. It
would be useful to the botanist, to the military student, and to ev^ry student, but
they must look for such gcncmlisation to somebody who would make a departure on
the lines advocated by Mr. Mackinder.
Rev. Canon Dakikl (Princifial, Battersea Training College) said that he had
not had the pleasure of hearing Mr* Mackinder read his paper, but he had perused it
wiih very much delight, finding it eminently suggestive and full of practical value.
He would venture to differ from Mr- Mackinder with regard to some of the con-
clusions that had been arrived at. He would not stop to discuss the definition of
gieogTaphy, for that was a mere matter of words. The province of geography would
depend very much upon the cmriculum of which it formed a part. If geology was
already very well provided for, it would be a great mistake to include geology as part of
a geographical a>urse. If on the other hand geology had no indei^endent place lu the
cnmculam, so much of it should be taught as had a practical bearing on geograpby.
He agreed with several of the speakers that geogniphy was mainly a science of distiihu-
tion; it aimed at accounting for the distribution of man, pre-eminently by the con-
ditions under which he lived, and anybody who looked at the maps exhibited on the
wall would see how very close the connection was. There were three maps of
Hiodostan exhibited^ One gave the (lOpuJation, another the rainfall^ and the third the
mountain and river system. Clearly there was a very close interdependence between
the three, for the density of population corresponded very closely with the amount of
rainfall Any one who noticed the density of |Hipu]ation in the valley of the Ganges
and the rainfall there, would see that there was more or less a oortespcndence
between the two, and also a correspondence between the rainfall and the mountain
and river system of the peninsula. He did not say that, given the physical facti^,
thiey could in all cases reason out the political facts, bat he did say that when they
Itid the political facts they might find physical facts to aooaant for them* There
WIS an interdependence between the facts of physical geography in the first place and
J
IM ON TEE SCOPE AUD METHODS OF GEOGRAPHr.-^WSOUSSION.
a closer conoection between political and phy ideal facts in the second. It was only
wben Mr, Mackinder camo to tli© methods of teaching that he was disposed to
disagree with hioi. He waa astoninlied that Mr, Mackinder should place googmph y
in a category by itself. Why should it be treated differently from any other induc-
tive science ? Surely the reasouable probability was that, bo far as it was an indue*
tive science, it should be treated like any other. What was tbc method of any
mdnctive science? Was it to start with an hypotbesisj with a succession of
hypotheses^ and then to account for ihe Lmls ? Or was it not rather to start with the
facts themselves, to collect them, to classify ihem, then to form hypotheses that
would account for tliem, and then to verify the hypotheses? That wsis jost what
Mr, Mackinder bad not done. He bad very graphically and forcibly illustrated his
position with regard to the south-ea*tcrn portion of England, and as he s|x>ke to an
audience already famUiar with the facts of political and physical geography, do
doubt his argument was very much enjoyed. But if be had been speaking to a
class ignorant of physical geography^ and of the political facts which he constantly
assumed, then bis theories and hypotheses would have been absolutely meaninglesB.
To those who were already familiar with the details, such a ^cnerabsatioa was
helpful^ but to those who were nut familiar with the details, the generalisation,
instead of being a help, was a hindrance. Ho could not but think that, although
many of Mr. Mackinder s audiences Imd followed him with very much interest, yet
it was doubtful whether, if they bad been examined at the end of his lectures, the
results would have been eminently satisfactorj . If they had been, then his audiences
must have differed from the rc*t of mankind, for inductive science was much the same
to an adult as to a child. They all began with facts rather than with generalisations,
and in pro{x>rtion as geography was a science of generalisations it must start with
the accumulation and classification of facts. He did not distinctly uuderetaud from
Mr. Mackinder to what class and what age and state of development hia method of
teaching was applicable. Was it to be followed in the teaching of children, or in
tbc teaching of adults? It might be an admirable method for Uuivcrsity men,
assuming that wlien they were children they bad been thoroughly grounded in the
elementary facts of physical imd political geography, but if they d,d not know whero
the Thames rt^se, or the Kennet ran, or where Dungencss was, or what relation tbts
Isle of Wi^bt bore to the mainland, tlitn all his geuendisations would fall meanmg-
Icssly on the ear. His contention was that the proper course of teaching geography
was to begin, not where Mr. Mackinder began, but at tl)e other end, not build the
tacts on theory, but the theory on facts. The great mistake that bad been
made was not that they had begun with tbc accumulation of facts^ but had stopped
there. They had done very little indeed towards classifying the facts and showing
their interdependence, and whatever iroprovementa were likely to be made in the
teaching of geography, would mainly consist in bringing out very clearly tho inter-
dependence of the physical facts in the tlrst place, and the connection between the
political facta and the physical facts on which they were dependent in the next place.
Prof. H. G, Seeley (Professor of Geography, King's College) said it was some-
what reluctantly that he rose to speak upon the subject of geography, because it
was extremely difficult to say auytbing wis^ily in the ten or fifteen minutes at bis
disposal, which should afterwards bear fruit. It was only because he wished to
ejEpress his agreement in the main witb the views which Mr» Mackinder had fut
furward that he rose at all. For eleven years in King's OoUego he had publicly
taught geography, and delivered regular courses of lectiu-es in the morning and
evening classes; but it required many years of study before he ventured to
undertake that chair. The results at which he had arrived bad enabled him to
treat geography as a science, and to meet most of the dilficulties which speakers
ON THE SCOPE AXD METHODS OF GEOGR A? JIT. —DISCUSSION.
109
liid mtsed &t that meetings because tbey were not familinr with the metliods
which were followed in teaching. He ohJL»€ted Bltogether to the idea that geography-
was a meeting ground for the sciences. Any one who attempted to comprehend the
phenomena of geography must look at man as in nature ; and therefore looking
backward the vista carried them into a remote past, in which they found that the
phenomena were in no way to he sejiarated from those with which the geologist
dealt. Very many of the familiar features of our own country were oric^nated in
remote ' geological periods, or dependent npon the geological structure of the
Chantry. On the other hand, when they conceived of man as placed in a worifl
in which these varied physical phenomena influenced him, they must discover
what those infiuences were. Granted that it was not an easy matter to dis-
eatADgle iliemt yet they could he taken one hy one and examinefi by various
methoda. He had thus disentangled them and testetl the efiixst^ produced hy com-
puison with the |>eoplcs of the various countries of Europe ; and he had found that
tlie flftine laws which held true for the determination of th*? main moral and mental
characteristics of the inhabitants of the various districts of England, operated also in
France, Germany, and the main j>ortions of the world in which laws could he
determined on the basis of similar facta. It would be readily comprehended that
when a subject reached over such a wide field it was eitreraely diflficult to say in a
few minutes anything; of a general nature which would make its scope clear.
He would limit himself to the remark that he entirely agreed with Canon Daniel, that
if gieograpby was to be taught to young j>cople the condition must be considered! that the
reudhing powers, which were necessary to deal with such aspects of the flubject as he
hod referred t*\ were not develope<l until the age of somewhere about fourteen was
loaehed ; and therefore, in the earlier period of life, although a tew of tlie larger aspects
in which law manifested itself in connection with geogiaphy ml'^ht be taught,
teachers must limit themselves to teaching the larger order of facta rather than their
erplanation. The thing which bad retarded the scientific teaching of geography was
the ezamioation system with which it was clogged. The examiners were not thcm-
fielves educated into an appreciation of the largo philosophical bearings of the subject,
and they had been so Baturaled with the facts that tbey had prevented the students
from acquiring a philosophical conception of the rea,sons for the collocation of those
(acts, by insliting mainly upon the obvious fact4S being stated in examination jiapers. So
long as this prevailed, so long would it he perfectly hopeless to expert geography to be
taught in the schools in a scientific way. He would, however, take exception to
Canon Daniel*s remark that geography was to be defined by the curriculum of
which it formctl a jmrt. It was perfectly independent of all curricula ; it was a
heginnisg and an end ; and although its foundation was baaed on geology, its end
became the philosophy of history. It was true that a broad glance and grasp
might be taken w^hich would include the whole world; or they might limit
themselves to the geography of a region such as Europe, or to tbo geography
of EngUnd, each of those subjects being complete in itself ; but whether they
took the largest or the smallest view, they found man influenced by nature iu
Tarioos ways, and the teaching of this relation required varied knowledge and
varied power in proportion to the field which it included* But there was a
definite beginning, and that beginning was most certainly a geological one. He
TCDttired to say that there was not a contotir of covist-ltnc which was not deter-
mined by laW| and which the geologist did not easily and perfectly explaia the
existence of. He referred not merely to the main general directions of land, but
also to the existence of the inlets into the land. Tbey were all in [positions which
could not \te varied, and until a man or a boy was familiarised with the prin-
ciples which governed these things it was perfectly gratuitous to rest content with
ITO OS THE SCOPE AND METHODS OF GEOGRAPHY,— DISCUSSION. ■
the idea tliat he knew the position of the Wasb, wlien lie did not know why it wa^fl
there. He (ProfeBsor Seeley) would therefore not be content with atjy descriptiotj, no4
matter bow vivid it might be, A description of geographical phenomena vpas^
aeoeaaarily vivid when it carried with it the reasons for the existenco of the
phenomena ; and the moment it was realised that the various features of nature,
whether they referred to the earth or to maa, admitted of bein^ explained, and tliat
it waa the duty of the geographer to explain them, then they were placed on a special
ground. At present they must be content, so far as schools were concerned, to teach
facta mainly. It would probably be a long time before teachers were sufficiently
educated to teach geography wisely, so that the student was taught to think on
every subject, and would get in his training tho same mental development as he
would get from the more severe mathematical and other technical studies. Tho
training^ however, was to be got, and it depended entirely on the teacher whether it
waa obtained or not.
Mr. J. Bryce, M.P., said be felt a great deal of difficulty in venturing to make
any observations, because he had not the advantage of having been present when the
paper was read, though he had seen it since, and he did not know what were the
issiiea raised in the discussion aud which the members of the Society had chiefly
before their mindB, llio speeches just delivered had, however, given him some indi-
cation aa to what these points were. He heartily agreed with the view which had
been presented by Mr, Maekinder, and greatly admired the singuhir clearness, logical
cogeucyj and width of philosophical view by which the paper had been marked.
Mr. Mackinder succcetk'd very well, not only in defining his genera! position
and point of view, but in showing by happy illustrations the way in which that
point of view was capable of being worked out and applied to different minor
departments of geographical investigation. Ho had been a little surprised to hear
Sir. (jalton speak of geographical teaching as if it were mainly a matter of descrijv
tion. It was also with some surprise that he had heard the view expressed that
geography was concerned chiefly with distribution, and that the main business
of the geographical teacher was to give facts. The study would become infinite
if they were to occupy themselves chiefly with giving the facts ou which
generalisation must be based. He understood that they were considering geography
from the point of view of a University professor, and that they were to
assume that the students would be reasonably supplied with the main facts. A
knowledge of the facts should be assumed, and if nccesjfary the teacher should issue
a statement telling what subjects he was goiug to lecture njwn, and suggesting to
students that they should come prepared with ajeasouable amount of preliminary
knowledge. That being assumed, w ns it not the case that geography was not a
science of description nor of distribution, but of causality, that its function was to
exhibit the way in which a variety of physical causes played, firstly upon one
another, and secondly upon man, and that the duty of a University professor of
geography would bo best discharged when he dealt with the elementary causes, and
showed the students by successive stages bow each cause passed into a secondary or
subsidiary cause, until the world as it is now was arrived at. A geographer would
naturally begin with the distribution of land and sea^ and ivitb tho distribution of
the great centres of formative force which had made the earth's surface what it it.
He would therefore show how it was that the world had been made to consist of
continents, islands, oceans, and would explain the directions of mountain chains^
He would then pass on to consider the distribution of winds and rain, which de-
pended on the distribution of land and sea, and upon the degree of elevation of parts
of the dry surface. Thus there woald be introduced another set of causes which
were themselves originally due to the distribution of land and sea. Next he would
ON THE SCOPE AKD METHODS OF OEOGRAPirr.— DJSCUSSIOX.
171
I
explain the workiiig of these meteorological causes, sli owing how they affected the
dktribation of vegetfttion (since the quantity and nature of vegelatioa depended
mainly on nunfall and temperature), and would examine the resulting fertility and
productive power of different districts. The whole theory of botany and zoology
most be worked out with reference to rainfall, and the rainfall itself is of course
coDditioned by the distribution of sea, the infiuence of the sun's heat, and other
cosmic causes. The teacher would then pass on to consider how all these
censes operated upon mau, and detemiined the course of human history. In
that way it seemed to him that geography was really the tracing out of various
caiuea, some of which continue*! to oi^erate directly, and some set in motion
other canses, and the condition of the earth at present and human history as it
had gone on on the earth were the complex result of the joint operation of all
these causes. To show how these causes operateti one upon another was the main
function of a professor of geography. While, therefore, the study of geography
developed a philosophical habit of mind it also cultivated the imagination, because
there was nothing that excited the imagination more than the consideration of lar^e
forces operating over large periods of time and in different ways* It also developed
the faculties of observation, and it seemed to him that it would have a very im-
portant function at the Universities in littiug men to become travellers. Nothing
was more remarkable in our modern world than the rapid development of cheap
meana of communication, and tbe extent to which they were used. Let them
compare the interest with which ordinary people travelled over the earth*a surface
now, with the opportunities they had to acquire knowledge of other countries
100 years ago, and they would see the progress the world had made was as remark-
able in that respect as in any other. How differently a man profited by his travel
if he had been taught to observe, wherever he went, the nature and direction of the
mountain ranges, the kind of rocks, and the influence they had on the direction of
Btieams and lakea, and how the meteorology of a country influenced it, and how all
these canses played upion the flora and faima. If a man travelled with knowledge of
that kind he found a constant delight and interest in visiting different i^arts of
the world which was entirely absent if those lines of inquiry were closed to him,
and he believed in thetio matters it was not so much the mere facta that it was the
duty of a professor to teach as the metho<L Let them give their students a clear
comprehension of the true method of study. Let them take one particular country
or one particular branch of the subject^ such ns tbe meteorology or the geology, or
the diatribution of agricultural products, and deal wnth it in a philosojihical way,
ahowing how the action of various causes is mingled, and then a mind of reasonable
iatdligence would find it easy to apply that method in other matters and other
^beres. He would like to add one word to the effect that in these matters we must
look for good results mainly from influencing and training highly a comparatively
imall number of personB. Ho did not feel very hopeful at present about the study of
geography in schools, for it was hard to find time there for a new study like geography,
wluch had been hitherto taught in such a way that it could scarcely be said to have
been taught at all. The direction in which they might look for improvement was in
implanting just ideas of philosophic method in a comparatively small number. If
a class of twenty men who were to become tcacbers in the great schools were to
receive a training in geography such as Mr* Mackinder recommended, it would
fiwcinate their minds, and not only geography but every subject which came into
connection with geography would he vivified and permeated with it, and the same
ideas and methods would by degrees filter through and spread among the colleges
and echools of the country, until an intelligent comprehension of the earth's surface
would come to be a part of common knowledge. They must therefore not be dis-
172 ON THE SCOPE AND METHODS OF GEOGRAPHr.— DISCUSS iOX.
contented if they were not able at first to operate on a very large sph&re. It was of
much more importance that a smail number of superior mioda ahould be imbued
with good methods, and be able to practise them, thnu that methods of a more
mechanical kind should be taught to a larger number of persons.
Mr. Delhab Morgan said that as he waa preseut at Birmingham when Bir
Frederic Goldsmid delivered his address, he was very pleased to have heard his defence.
The result of the address was that the British Association appointed a Committee to
exercise their iniluenco on the Uuiversitiea of Oxford and Cambridge in order to
interest them m the cause of geographical edtication. He hoj^ed that Mr. Mackinder
would give two or three words of explanation with regard to a few points in his
j>aper. How did the discovery of America cause the fall of Venice ? How did arti-
ticial lighting render possible the existeoce of a great community in St. Petersburg?
Mr. Douglas FreshfieI-d said that on the whole the speakers had stuck very
well to the subject of discussion, namely on what general lines geography should Ise
taught. Mr, Markham, to whom Mr. Mackinder's paper had been referred^ had in
hiB Report to the Council of the Society summarised excellently its main points. He
would read extracis from Mr. Markbam'a report which, coming from one who had
been Secretary of the Society for twenty-five years, would carry more weight than
any words of his own, Mr. Markham wrote, ** The question which Mr. Mackinder
discusses is w^hether the science of geogmphy is one investigation, or whether physical
and political geograpliy are separate subjects to he studied by different methods, the
one as an appendix of geology, the other of history. He contends for the former
view, and that no rational political geography can exist which is not built upou, and
subsequent to, physical geography . The present system, he maintains, is an irra-
tional i»litical geograpliy, a body of isolated data to be committed to memory-
It is like learning mathemaiica by trying to remember forainla; instead of grasping
principles. A true geographer, taking up the central geographical posit ioD, should
look equally on such parts of science and such facta of history as are ijertineiit to hia
inqniryp His work ia to bring out the relations of special subjects. The more
BCientitic investigation tends to specialism, the more necessity is there for students
whose aim it shall he to briog out the relations of the sfiecial subjects. One of the
j^reatest gaps lies between the natural sciences and the study of humanity; it is the
duty of the geographer to build a bridge over this abyss, which is upsetting the
equilibrium of our culture.*' Mr. Markham coutinucib '* 1 am inclined to nnticipate
that the rca(3ing and consideration of tluH poi)cr will form an era iu the history of
our Society/' On some points he (Mr, Fresh field) might be disfjosed to differ from
Mr. Mackinder. Mr. MackindeKs definition of geography appeared to him a summary
uf his scholastic method rather than a final definition of the science itself. He
should perhaps define it as the science which examined the face of the earth, the
causes and connections of its featm^s, and the relations between them and its
deniacus. But he should be sorry to see time s]>ent in endeavours to frame rigid
definitions. What was wanted was a clear and liberal view of the functions of
geography as the main meeting-jK>iut l)tt\v(.<n the sciences of nature and of man,
and its thorough adoption of this poiot of vieW| which the speaker had himself urged
at Birmingliam, was one great merit of Mr* Mackinder's address. He thought that
Canon Daniel had rather confused geography as a scientific pursuit with geography as
a ficholaatic discipline. In scientific research the true methoti was, no doubt, to
collect facts iu order to deduce principles and laws from them. But in teaching, the
laws laid down by research must be enforced and illustrated by individual facts.*
** The general truths," as Mr. John Morley has said, ** are the means of lighting
up the particulars^,^ It had been objectetl also to the method advocated by Mr.
Mackinder that it was not practical, that it would not aSect schools, and was not
i
ON THE SCOPE AND METHODS OF GEOGRAPHY.— DISCUSSIOK.
173
I
suited for examiDMioDB. Aa a fact» the attencUnta at Mr, Mackioder's lecttirea
had been examined ia tbetn. He wished to read an accotiot of their succesa, sent by
the Secretary of the Oxford University Extension, the lectures of wbicli were
given to working and middle-class audiences in the north and west hy gratluates
of Oxford, " Since the above was written I have received reports from Saliabury
and Manchester as to the suocess of Mr. Mackinder*a lectures. On Tuesday,
February 8tU, a meeting was held of all the elementary achool teacbera attend-
ing Mr. Ma<^inder8 lecturer on geography at Manchester. They numbered
105. Ilie teacliers IhemselveH pointed out that the fact that the fifth lecture
of the course was attended by m br;4e a number was an indication of the
way in which the lectures were appreciateii The head masters and mistressoa
calculated that the geographical teaching of 6000 pupils was affected by the
delivery of one course on the subject in Manchester.** That showtd that the
proupect of teaching geography aa a branch of etWcation which would call into
play the reasoning powers, was likely to be realised in the immediate future, and
that by encouraging teachinj^ of that sort the Geographical Society, both at the
Universities and in elementary schools, might do a great deal of good. Mr.
Mackinder bad suggested that the supply of papers of discovery and adventure
was likely to become exhausted because the world was being used up. He did not
at ail agree witli that. The w^orld was not nsed up yet. For iostanoe, there was
New Guinea^ in which ** Captain Lawson ** some years ago ventured to invent the
story of the discovery of Mount Hercules, 32,000 feet high ; the South Pole, large
tracts of Aaia and South America, many remote and remarkable islands. There was
still room for tales of adventure; but ho would put his objection on different
grounds. He did not consider that any region had been explored until it had been
deacribed by a person of some percepiion. Mr. Gal ton said there were very few
people who could find words to describe what they saw. It was perhaps not so
much the words as the ]_>ower of observation that was wanting. The number of
good narratives of travel was compamtively small, liecause the perception of English
travellers was so often limited and untraineci In this connection he w^ould read to
the meeting some sentences from an article by bis friend, Mr. Conway (Profe&sor of
Art at Liverpool), in the last number of the * Alpine Journal,* Mr. Conway was
discussing the exhaustion of the Alps as a literary subject^ but it seemed to him
that what he said might, muiatis mitlmidU^ be applied to the larger literature of
geoeral traveU *' The credit due to explorers can only be measured by the utility
of their work to others. The first visit is ih ere fore the first recorded visit— the first
visit 80 recorded that others are enabled to follow where the first man forceil his way
in doubt and j^erplexity. An unrecorded journey is nothing ; one badly recorded is
worth little more. The man who only visits a remote region, and contents himself
with stating the fact, can only be regarded ns ewaggeriag. If he records his route
in plain language, he deserves thanks. If he so records it that readers can discover
its interest and beauty compnred with the interest and beauty of other routes, he
deserves much more credit.** He would like to a^nk any Fellow who had been
accustomed to attend the meetings of the Society, how many countries they had
heard described which they did not wish to hear described again by somebody with
vivid jjerceptions. One means of training the power of pereeptiou in travellers was^
to give better geogmphical education in English schools and Universities ; they had
boeo told over and over again that the only way to secure that was to get capable.
leifiliiefa, and to make teachers they must secure geography its proper poaition at the
Universities which trained the teachers. He hoped that in this way brilliant
[jajiers of adventure, discovery, and research would be obtained by the Society fjr its
Journal and its meetings, so that every taste might be satisfied.
No* in.— March 1887.] o
171
ON THE SCOPE AKD METHODS OF GKOGKAPHr.— DISCUSSION.
Mr. Macsinder said that be was surprised at the general UDaaimity which had
characterised the proceedings, and he felt gratified that any i>aper of his should have
Leea the cause of bringiDg out from what he might call the authority on geography
so unaoimons an opinion as to what geography was. In the world outside there was
an opinion that geographers did not know their own minds, and were Bot certain as
to the limits of their own science. Ho therefore felt that the opinions which had
been expressed by the difiTerent speakers would have a considerable effect, and be
was gratified that hia pajser had been the means of clicitinc; that opinion. Part of
the discussion that had taken place had been on words rather than on tbing». Sir
Frederic Goldsmld had contrasted theodolites with theoriea. He (Mr. Mackinder)
did not undervalue the work done by explorers and by those who had to undertjike
the, i>erhapa, more difficult and drier work of Ordnance Surveying, but be submitteil
that until the reason of tlio facta obeer^'c^i by the instniment was given, they bad
not reached a scientific stage, however skilfully the iufitruments were manipulated.
In reply to Canon Daniel he would say that his experience tended to show thatt
when teaching elementary geography, the best way was not to teach the facts first
and then tho principles, but to combine the two, and teach tbe facts incidentally
while explaining the principles. He could not help feeling that that was the wa^^
in which all hut the ABC of geography should be taught. Obviously^ in bis paper
b« waa not referring to the most elementary pupils, but he believed tliat bia system,
properly diluted, would be applicable to them also. With rej^ard to geography as
the science of distribution, he thought that Professor Bryce had clearly mistaken the
sense that he attached to the expression. What he (Mr. Mackinder) meant by it
was not merely the enumeration of tho distributions, but the causation and the
connection of the distri but ions.
The Cbaikman (General R. Strachey) said be thought that many of the obeer-
vations which had been made might, with due respect, be termed rather academical
in their diameter, stilt they had all no doubt been useful. A certain amount of
misconception seemed however to have arisen amongst some of the speakers as to
what the others meant, and there bad j^crhaps been a little want of precision as to
the distinction between what geography was as a science and what was its practical
utility, and what the best method of teaching it, Jlr. Galton had also spoken of
geograpliy as involving the art of geographical description. The fact of the matter
-was that geography, like all mixed sciences, might be viewed in ten thousantl ways,
but all those ways were useftd and valnahli'. The same might K^ Kaid with regard
to the methods of teaching, whether it was Mr, MackindeT*s particular way, or Canon
Daniers, or Prof. Seeley's, or Mr, Dunn*a, they were, be had no doubt, all very good.
All the speakers had shown that they really apj^reciated the pro[>er manner in which
geogniphy should be taught, and he would say to tliem all, ** Go on your own way."
Why should they make a Procrustean bed and compel peo])le to deal vdih. the
subject in any particular manner? That was not the way in which science grew or
would grow. Let everybody exercise bis ingenuity in the manner which to him was
apparently the most conductive to the object he bad in view. If any one wanted to
know what his own opinions on the subject were, he would mention that ten years
ago he read a discourse before the Society, on the subject of Scientific Geography,
and he would refer them to this |kiper whicli was printed in the * Proceedings' of the
Society. Ho did not find, on reconsidering the subject recently, that be bad very
much to change in what be then said.
A vote of thanks to Jlr. Mackinder concluded the proceedings.
( 175 )
Mr. A, D. Carey's Travels in Turhistan and Tibet.
The attention of geographers lias been so mucli occupied of late by tlie
prooeedings of General Prejevalsky in Chinese Tnrkistan and Northern
Tibet, that the explorations of Mr. Carey in those regions haye been
scarcely noticed. Yet Mr. Carey's journey has been as important and
interesting as that of the Eussian officer. Mr. Carey is a member of the
Bombay Civil Service, who is devoting two years' furlough to travelling,
at his own expense, over what may be fairly described as almost the
last of the unexplored regions of Asia. He is accompanied by Mr.
Andrew Dalgleish, whose name is known as the pioneer British trader in
Chinese Turkistan, and who joined Mr. Carey as Turki interpreter and
general assistant ; the remainder of the party is made up of pony drivers
and two or three personal attendants. Mr. Carey left India in May
1885, and inarched through the hills to Ladak, where he adopted the
plan of travelling eastward into Northern Tibet (Ch6ngt4n) as fiEur as
the Mdngtsa Lake, and thence striking northward till he should descend
on the plains of Turkistan, near Eiria. This plan was successfully
carried out during August and September 1885, and resulted in more
than 300 miles of country being traversed which had never before been
visited by a European of any nationality. The altitudes on this section
of the journey were always very great, the track running usually at
about 16,000 feet above the sea, while one, at least, of the passes crossed
was calculated to reach 19,000 feet. In descending from the Tibetan
highlands towards Eiria, an extremely difficult defile had to be passed,
where five days were taken up in making good a distance of 28 miles.
A short stay was made at Eiria, and a somewhat longer one at Ehotan,
where General Prejevalsky's party was camped on Mr. Carey's arrival.
The two explorers, however, did not meet, the former being then just on
^the point of starting for Aksu and Bussian territory, while the latter had
to fit himself out with a new oaravan of camels for crossing the desert
to Euchdr. In this way it happened that for a portion of the journey
towards Euchdr, Mr. Carey had to follow the Russian explorer, but for
the remainder — the greater part — he can claim to be the first European
ever to traverse these dismal plains. The route lay down the Ehotan
river to its junction with the Tarim ; then along the latter river to
Sarik, and thence across another stretch of desert to Shah-Yar and
Euchar. From the latter place, after a halt to renew the caravan, a fresh
start was made, when the Tarim was followed down to a point where it
turns southward towards Lake Lob. But the Euchar pack animals
were in bad condition, and Mr. Carey found it expedient to leave the
river for a time, and visit the towns of Eurla and Edrdshahr, with the
object of replacing them. All arrangements being finally completed by
o 2
#
176
im. A, i\ CAREY'S TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN AND TIBET,
about the end of the year, the Tarim was Btnick again, immediately
Bouth of Knrla, and traolced to Lake Lob.
Thus the whole length of the Tarim has been explored. The country
along its course is d escribed as flat and reedy, and the people extrornely
poor and miserable; at the villages near Lob, fodder was bo deficient
that Mr. Carey bad to pitch his standing camp for the latter part of the
winter (about February to April) at a village called Chaklik, some
distance south of the lake, and close to the foot of the great raoge of
mountains which forms the northern scarp of the Tibetan highlands.
This long bait was utilised in preparing for a journey southward into
Tibet as soon as the season should permit ; and it happened eventually
that a now departure was made on the 30tb April, 1886, The route
was then to have been over a pass in the great range (the Altyn Tagh,
or **gold mountains," according to Prcjevalsky), and onward by a track
occasionally nsod by the Kalmaks in their expeditions to Tibet, and
indicated by them to Mr. Carey, Since this final start from the low-
lands of Lob, nothing has been heard of the gallant explorer, but it is
presumed that after spending the summer and early autumn in travel-
ling over the elevated region, and among the lakes of ([^hangtiiu, he has
returned to Turtistan for tho winter. If this should have been the
case, Mr. Carey's return to Ladak and India may be looked for late in
the comiug spring, though news of his whereabouta and the safety o
his party may perhaps arrive before that time. It may be noticed that
Mr. Carey speaks everj'whcre, in his correspondence, of the good trea
ment he received from tho inhabitants of the countries visited. The
nomad tribes of Northern Tibet and the Mussulman inhabitants of
Turkistan showed bim nothing but civility, while all the Chines©
officials acted loyally up to the terms of the passport with which Mr.
Carey had been provided by the Peking Government befc^re he set out
from India. Mr. Carey has no escort, or armed following of any kind,
and it is worthy of remark that be has been able to make his way (up
to May 1886, at any rate) quietly and unmolested among people with
whom the Russian explorer came into collision, and with mandarins of
whom he has complained so bitterly since his return to Eussia. The
f?tory Mn Carey will bave to tell on bis return cannot fail to be of
importance, and may be looked forward to with great interest by
geographers.
u
n
I
( 177 )
A Journey from Blantyre to AngonUland and back.
By J, T. Last, Commander of the Society's EspeditioE to tlxe
Namali Hills, East Central Africa.
Map, p. 212.
fs M&y last (1886), being retaitied at Blaatyre, wailing for the favourable season to
start for the Namuli Hills, I made a journey, in com|iaoy with Ci>ii8ul HAWta, to
the Augooi country, oq the highlantls to the south-west of Lake Nyaasa. I now
submit to tha Society the following account of this expeditiou : —
The course of the journey waa from Blantyre to Zomba, thenco by way of
HaletnyaX on the west side of Lake Sbirwa, to the river Shire, on to Mpooda'a at
the south end of Lake Nyassa, up the eaet «ide of the promontory jutting into the
8DUth end of Nyatisa to Liviagstonia, From LiviiigstoDia we traversed the west
side of the promontory, and then travelling west wo weut vii Mount Chirobwe to
Chikusi's in Angoui-latid. On leaving Angoai-knd, we travelled E.S,E1., striking
the river Shiri5 at a village called Mpimbi. Here we passed over and went oa to
2omba, returning to Blantyre from Zomba by the way wo had come.
We started oa May 3rd from Dlantjre. Our way took us past the Scotch
MisaoD Station at Blantyre» and then, after leavinj; the small bill of Nyambadwo
on our left, we went round the western spurs of Ndilandi Hill, and down to the river
Lunzu* The bed of this river is some 20 feet wide, and its banks 10 feet high ;
during the dry season there in but little water bere, but th«5 dried grass and debris on
the trees on its banks show that during the rains there ia frequently a rush of water
10 or 12 feet deep. The Lunzu riaes about Banf!;we and the adjacent bUls, some
eight miles to the east of Blantyre, and eniptiea itself into the river SHr^, south of
the African Lakes Company *s trading fitation at Matojie. We crossed to the right
lAuk of the Lunzu at 6 p.m., and cami>ed on the rifiing ground close by. The next
morning we staj-ted at 7 a.m., and in the evening reached the river Mnamazi. Hero
we found the camp of the Portuguese traveller, Lieut. Cardozo, stsll standing. This
our men were glad to make use of. During the day we crossed several rivers and
streams, of which the Chipandi is the chief. T\m river, which is somewhat larger
than the Lunzu, rises on the west side of Mount KilndKuIu, aud rushes west betweca
rocky defiles into the Shir<g, a short distance south of Matot>e. Several long pieces
of bog and marah had to be crossed during the day, Tlie inarsby surface was hid
by a coarse grass, about 18 inches high, which grows in the water, but the jkaUia
were only loo distinguishable by the long line of black mud and slime. On leaving
the Mnamazi the next morning, we passed over geutly undulating ground covered
with long grass, from five to eight or more feet high, which renders travelling very
anpleasaat, both on account of the heavy dew with which the grass is surcharged
during the early morning, and aUo from the stiHiog atmoepbere during the greater
heat of the day. We crossed a number of marshes and small rivers on the way, of
which the Likangala is the princi|ml. This rises in some hills on the left bank of
the Sbir^, passes along the foot of Zomba, and enters Lake Shirwa, It h the largest
river between Blantyre and Zornba, having a bed 50 feet or more wide. It rises and
falls in the wet season after the manner of the Lunzu and other rivers. At 2 f.m.
we reached the site of the Britbh Consulate, which stands on the right bank of the
river Mluaguzi. The Consulate is being built by Messrs. Buchanan Bros, on one of
the spurs which jut out from the south side of Mount Zomba. The Mlunguzi river,
which rises on the top of Zomba, and aepanites the Consular estate fri.>m that of
Meure. Buchanan, rushes down over rocks aad boulders, forming pretty cascades
ij
178
A JOURNEY FROM BLANTITRE
and waterfalls with its bright sparkling waters, and thence goes on ta Join the
LikaDgala. ^H
Mount Zomba, which is nearly 5000 feet ahove sea-level, has extensive spumw
from 300 to fiOO feet high jutting out from its sides. These are all fertile, well
watered, and iipparently very healthy. They are but sparsely mliahited at present,
but this is prolmbly owing to the continual feuds tho natives liave amongst thera-
sehxft, and the extensive raids which have of late years been made by the Maugoni
tribe* I think the spurs round Zomba are more healthy tlian Blantj^re or any
district for a great distance. The district about the south of Zomba proves to bo
very fertile, by the fine crop of coffee which ilessrs. Buchanan have on their planta*
tions this year. Sugar-cane grows equally well. Tea, cocoji, cinchona, arrowroot,
and other products are being tried, and they promise to do well.
Whilst detained at Zomba I made the ascent of the mountain twice, and ascer-
tained its height by boiling-point tberraometer. The top of the mountain is an
undulating Hat, covered with grass about two feet high, and having here and there
OToaU ]mtches of thick forest* The most mteresting plants, to me, were heaths,
ferns, and ground-orchids. Of the ferns, some of which are arboreal, and orehids,
there are several varieties.
On Monday, May 17th, shortly after noon, we started for thevill^e of Kumjali,
where Malemya, a chief of considerable influence, resides, on the spurs at the north*
east of Hount Zomba* We reached our destination about 7.30 p.m. Near to
Maiemya's is a small missionary station, an offj^boot of the Scotch Church Mission
at Blantyre, under the charge of a nativo teacher named " Bismarck," This man
kindly invited us into his house while we were waiting for the caravan to oome up,
and w^e remained talking for about an hour, during which he showed himself to be
a very intelligent man, as also on the following day, by his manner and conversation
with tho chief Malemya, which took place in our presence.
As soon RS we reached Malemya's the chief invited us to camp in the inclosnre
at the back of his house. He was very noisy, being somewhat under the effects of
native beer; still ho wished to make us as comfortable aa ix>ssible. He has a
number of villsgea scattered about on the eastern spurs of Mounts Zomba and
Malosa, from which one may look over the whole of Lake Shirwa and the north-
west side of the jMilanji mountains. The next morning the chief was sober, and
came early to pay his respects to the Consul ; he then made himself very agreeable,
and through his influence the men were able to get plenty of food. He also
promised to do all in his power to help the caravan on.
On the 19th we started again, Malemya having given some men to carry fiome
extra loads belonging to the Consul. These men were ordered to take us on to the
river Shir^ and then return. Our path took us over the uiiduiating spurs of the
east side of Malosa HilL We reached Machinjila's village after an hour and a
halt's walk, and stayed there to lunch. In the distance to the north were the
districts under the two chiefs Che Mchamba and Che Kawinga, the former at the
foot of Hount Chikala on the south side, and Kawinga on the s]>nrs extending from
the north side of the .same. The Consul was very desirous of visiting these chiefs,
but as there had lately been fighting between the people at Slack inji la's and those
of Che Mchamba the men from Malemya would not go. From Machinjila's we
went on over the same kind of undulating ground till we reached the villages of
Mpasu, a relation of Malemya's, Here we found plenty of food, flour, potatoes,
bananas, fowls, with other common products of the country.
We went on next day to the villager of Mangnlu, on Kumbanga HilL The
conntry is of the same nndulating character as that hitherto traversed. Several
rivers and streams were crossed on the way, of which tho most important were the
TO ANGOXI-LA^D AKD BACK.
170
Jjif^ai, NjambADyka, Likwenl, and tbo Mbelezi. There are no people betwoen
Mpam*a and Mongulu'a, the people who formerly inhabited the country liaviog boen
removed by the Mangoni. Mflngulu's Tillage is built in a very peculiar ptjsition.
The north-east end of Kambanga Hill is covered with huge bonlders and rocks,
having spaces between them which are lUUised by the natives as sites for their
bottset; Beldom more than live or mx houses can be seen from one point of view,
thoagh ^ihere are a good number. In the evening the chief came to the Consults
tent^ and we had a long talk together.
In the morning we desired to start ^rly for the river Bhire, but the men from
Malemya'S refosed to go any farther, saying that Malemya had told them not to go
any farther than Mangulu's village. This we knew was contrary to what Malemya
had told U5, and as they persisted in saying that they would not go on, they were
lold that they would be {mid, according to their agreement, on the bank of the
river Shir^, and not before. They, however^ refused to go on, and other men had
to be hired from Mangulu*
We managed to get away at 8 a.m. The road ky over rough barren ground
for Bome six miles, till we again approached somewhat near the Likweni river.
Onward from thb place the ground was level, and covered vrith long gras*. The
country abounds with game— elephants, buffaloes, and various kinds of antelopes.
These were known to be in the district by the many tracks and marks about ; we
did not see any, however, it being about the time such animals go to water, which
was several miles to the south-west At 5 p.m. we reached a small lake near a
clump of trees, and camped for the night.
The country is very flat on to the banks of the Shire, Here w© met with some
large euphorbias, and also the big awkward-looking baobab (Adansonia), Treeejaro
in patches, with intervals of grass. In other places there are trees very much^Uke
elms in ap[)earaDC^ standing scattered about. They grow from 60 to 70 feet high,
with good straight trunks from one to two feet in diameter, and would make'good
timber for building purposes.
On Saturday, May 22nd, we reached the river Shire about noon. There is a long
stretch of low-lying ground all along the left bank some li mile wide. This in
the close vicinity of the river must make the country unhealthy at all times of the
year. The chief of the place was Cbe Liwonde. At Mangulu's village we were told
that Li woo do had died a few days previously^ but was not yet buried. The custom
here is to keep the dead for some days after death, the idea being that if the bodies
aiie kept till they are well advanced in decomfxisition^ the so-called wizards are not
10 likely to dig them up and eat them. There is a strong belief amongst these
people that wizards eat the dead as opp:)rtunity occurs, and by that means get a
supernatural power over their fellow-creatures. As we arrived at the river we heard
the beating of drums and people singing. Soon afterwards three canoes came in
sight filled mth people. The home of Liwonde was on an island in the river, and
men were bringing his body thence, in order to bury it on the mainhind. On
binding, a sort of procession was formed, two or three men in front carrying beer
and flour, then the body, which had been bound up in a kind of mat made from the
stalks of the long matete grass, and suspendwl horizontally to a pole, was brought
on by two men. After these came a number of men and women bearing beer and
other things, aomo had small drums and rattles, which they were beating and shaking,
and others were singing the funeral dir^o. The stench arising from the body as it
was carried past showed that we had not been wrongly informed as to the time the
natives keep their dead before burial.
Soon after we appeared on the left bank of the ShM, people living on the right
bank saw us and came over in their canoes. Among them was Litete, the head-man
180
A JOURNEY FROM 0LANTYRE
of the village, with wliom an armDgi^ment was made to take as over, Tbiii be did
for eight yards of bluo calico and four yards of white. We were quickly ferried
across, and soon had our tents pitched in the inclosure of one of the houses of the
head-man. There is a marked difiference between the ri^^ht and left banks of the
river. The left is quite uninhabited^ and very unhealthy. The ri^ht bank is fairly
healthy, well-peopled and very fertile — hr^^e quantities of good rice are grown, and
an abundance of Indian corn, millet of three kinds, a variety of beans^ and other
legnmiDOUs plants ; pumpkins, potatoes, and cassava are alao cultivated. Moat of the
natives have patches of tobacco, and some Indalge in Indian liemp. Fowls are
abundant and cheap; but goats and sheep scarce. Only bush-buck and other small
antelopes are found in the vicinity^ The people in all these districts are Nyassas
and Yaos (Ajawas), Between this place and Livingstouia mauy of the natives arc
in the habit of going down !o QuiUimane, or to the more northern coast towns of
Ktlwa and Lindi, so that several can speak Swahili^ and understand coast customs.
From Litete's we went on to Che Mlelemba's village, od the way crossing the
rivers Mnangona and Mkasi. The cliief here lias been to the coast several times to
barter Lis goods and briug up coast stuff. Our visit gave him an opportunity of
showing off his knowledge of the coaat language and customs, which he did not fail
to make use of. He was very anxious that 1 should come and live with him at his
new village, whicli he is building in a group of hills some ten miles away to the
west. The country her© is very fertile, immense fields of millet are growo, and
Indian corn is planted all the year ronud. |
The next day we went on to Mwasama*s, passing through Che rita*8 district at
midday. During the day we passed several large villages belonging to the Nyassa
tribe. Mponda, who is the head chief or Sultau of all these districts on the right
bank of the Shire, has made some tei-ms of friendship with Chikusi, the Manguni
king, and now his people live in peace and safety. The path lay through the same
fertile kind of country all the next day. In the afternoon we crossed the Nasenga
river and camped in the forest some distance farther on. Thence a messenger was
sent on to the Sultan Mponda, to obtain his permisalon to visit him. Near the spot
where we camped there had lately stood a lai^ village^ but the chief of it, refusing
to obey some command of MpondaV, was attacked by his order, killed, his village
destroyed, and bis people scattered. The mej-senger returned the next morning with
favourable answers, and we moved on. We could not but notice the barren appear-
ance of the fiat district In which Mponda lives. The soil consists chiefly of dry-
washed sand, which has probably been drifted up at some time. It seems that large
portions of the country, forming tho east side of the promontory, were formerly
covered with water, the hills and rocks then fonning little islands. Since then,
drift sand, or sand and mud, has filled the spaces between tho hills. This is indi-
cated both by the surface of the flats and also by breaks in the ground, wliich ahows
that it is simply made up ground. When there is simply saod on the surface little
else but grass will grow ; hut with a mixture of sand and mud, the ground is very
fertile.
The next morning we went on to Mponda*s, On reaching the town we were
conducted to one of the chiefs houses, where wo remained for about a quarter of an
hour, and then proceeded to the houses which he had placed at our disposal. About
two hours afterwards Mponda came, bringing a line goat and two baskets of rice as a
present. The Sultan remained talking for about two hours, and then retired with
the present the Consul had given him, Tho present Mponda is a young man who
has only lately succeeded to the sultansbip. The custom is that when a sultan or
chief dies, his sodb cannot Inherit, but the sultanas brother or brother^s sons. The
present Mpondft is & younger brother of the bte sultan. A great difficulty against
TO ANGOHI-LAND AKD BACK.
181
I
t son inberiting is the custom that on tbe death of a aultaa or cMef^ a!l his wires
and women become the projierty of tiie penstm succeeding.
There is now a general feeling among the sons of great chiefs in these territories
Aat they ought to succeed to the pc)8ition and property of their fathers^ The two
WDB of the late Mponda, who hve in the great town of their father, are much d\s-
eonteDted with their positiooj and are intriguing to turn out tbe present ]l(l[X)niia,
Ah» at the great chief Makaujila's, on the south-east shore of Lake Nyassa, the same
feeling ia shown. The son of Makanjila is at war with his father, because the latter
will not consent to make him his heir. All the chief young men are well acquainted
with the coast towards Zanzibar^ and have become Mahommedans, They are sur-
rounded by a number of Warima, or Coast-inea, who exert great influence over
(hem. It is probably owint; to the increased knowledge they have gained by their
journeys to the coast, and also the influence of the coast-men who live with them,
that thete young chiefs ai-e desirous of altering the present ciibtoms of tlieir country.
On the evening of tbe day of our arrival at MfxiutlaV, the African LaktfS Com-
j)any'« steamer i/a/a came in, bringing down from the north end of NyiiHsa Mr,
Nicoiland Mr. Stephenmju, employes of the company, Tliey, with Mr, Morrison,
who is iu charge of the stetimer, e^me ashore, and we spent a pleasant evening
togietber. In the morning they were off again on their way to Matope, the com-
pft&y*s station at tbe up|>er end of the FalU on the river Shire,
We remained at Mpooda's the following day» and on the next. May 29th, resumed
our journey. Oar way led through the large town where the former Mponda had
lived. Here we were met by his two sons, who were very anxious that we should
slay the night with them., but time would not allow ns to do so, Tbe grave of the
late Mponda is built just in front of the house where he resided. It is tbe largest
bailding of the kind I have seen in all East Africa. Its large size is chiefly owing
to coast influence— but the style and custom are purely native. The building is
about 40 feet long by 30 wide, with a verandah 5 feet wide all round. The roof,
tbe ridge of which is some 25 feet from iho ground, is thatched with graH««, the thatch
being covered all over with white calico from the ridge to the eaves. Tbe building
stands nearly east and west, with the door at the east end^ The roof inside is of
bamboo, and hung with numberless pendants of white calico, about 1 foot long and
1 inch broad. The position of the grave shows the coast influence exercised at the
burial. The grave was dug nearly north and soutb^ looking towards Mecca, and w hen
tbe body was buried, it was placed with its head towards the north. I was told that the
burial was jjerformed with tbe customary Mahommedan rites. Over the grave a tomb
has been erected on a raised platform ur dais, which is ascended by two steps. Tbe
tomb is fonned by a turreted wall about four feet high, which surrounds the grave.
The square enclosed by this wall is left o|x;n at the top, and inside is a mound
raised like that of an ordinary grave. On either side of the tomb outside there is a
large square boic, said to contain rupees, the oll'erings of people who have come to
pay their respects to the dead The wall of the tomb facing the door is inlaid with
round earthenware plates, basins, looking-glasses, ii copper plate, and other things of
European make, and hung with numerous strings of heads, the offerings of friends
and yiaitora. In front of tliis wall a rail is put up, about six feet from the ground,
from which are suspended a number of good Muscat cloths, and some coloured cloths
of European manufacture. These form a screen to the tomb, and are always kept
down except when people come to visit the grave. The door is always kept locked,
and a man is appointed, whose sole duty is to keep charge of the place.
After a small present hod been made to the two sons of the late Mponda we
moved on, and passing the villages of Kumlonxl)a on the way, reached Malunga*s in
the evening. The country passed over was low and sandy, with numerous patches
182
A JOURNEY KROM BLANT^RE
I
covered with salt. These patches are covered with water during the wet seosoii,
and, as the water is evaporattd, tlio aalt deposit is left* We saw several parties of J
womea engaged ia gathering up the salt, which they mix with water, and strain ; it I
is then evaporated by hoiling, aft^r which it is ready for the market, A larg^l
qoautity of salt iij.thus colkcted about Mponda*8 district, and it fioda a ready markell
with the Yao3 to the south, and among tlie Mangoui to the west- At Malunga*i|
we were told that hippopotami were plentiful ; they must have been very shy, for ^
we only saw one at a distance. In an endeavour to shoot it we were not successful.
We had heard much talk about thesa animals in the rivor Shire, They must be few
in number, however, for we did not see more than half a dozen all the way up the
Shire, and along the shores of the lake.
From Malunga*3 we went on the next day past the villages of Ngnmbi, Mako-
l>o]a, and Chipoka, to the village of Abdulk. We camped outside the village, at
which the chiefl was rather surprised, the general practice being for travellers to
camp inside. AbduUa^s village is strongly situated on a neck of land on the lake
ooast^ BTirrounded ,by hills. At the foot of one of these hills is a little lake of salt
water, in which there is a variety of fiKh.
From AbduHa's we made a loug journey, and at night reached the broken-down
village of Pampamba, of which the chief is naraerl Kiznra. The country we
passed through varies considerably ; some of it is most fertile, while other parts are
simply clean sand, and useless for gardens. In other places there are large swamps,
shut off from the lake by low banks, ufion which some of the natives have built
their sraaU villages. The chief of these are MIela and Walo. Beyond these villages
we passed over the Ngnai Hills, and came to a deaerted village. There we had to
retrace our steps for a short distance, till we entered a broken track, which took us
sometimes along the shore, sometimes over mgjijed rocks, and ultimately brought us
to Kizura's village, at which we arrived about 6.30 p.m* This is a most desolate,
broken-down, and unhealthy place, and v;e were glad to be oi9f again the next
morning. On leaving, we went for some distance along a scrubby forest, and then
came upon the shore of the lieautiful bay of Mazinzi, where we stopped for break-
fast. At 11,30 we reached another beautiful bay, called Lusumbwe. This bay is
about half a mile in width, and a mile in length. The sides of the bay are formed _^
by the hills Sanu and Dim we on the right, and Punzi and Tumbwe on the LefL^f
These two rows of hills are parallel to each other, and a strip of low bank at right
angles to these forms the bead of tho bay. There is a good-sized village just over
this bank, the inhabitants of which paas a good deal of their time in catching fish in
tlie bay, where they are plentiful and in great variety, A large seine or net is taken
to the mouth of I ho bay in caaoes, where it is dropped into the water, and stretched
from side to aide. Rops ata attached to each end of the net, and the men with
these draw tlie net to the head of the bay, and land the £sh. We stayed at this
place for about two hours, and left at 2 p.m., thinking we had ample time to reach
Livingatonia before dark. We had to cross over a high pass in the Kuognni Hills,
and night came on before we were at the foot on the other side, so when we arrived
at the gardens we had to camp, and go on the next morning. We reached Living-
ston ia in less than an hour's march from the last camping place, on June 2nd.
The mismon station of Livingston ia is built on the shores of a little bay at the
foot of the Kunguni Hills, An elevated bank of shingle and sand ia thrown up
all along the shore of the bay, and inside this bank is a low Eat, extending up
to the hill-side. Many parts of this flat are lower than the lake level, and con-
sequently very damp and unhealthy. In the rains all this must be an extensive
swamp, as is shown by the elevated roadway which the missionaries have had to
make in order to get over it at that season of the year. At first sight the place
TO ANGONI-LAND AND BACK. 188
has the appearance of being unhealthy and unsuited as a mission station, and for
the fiist two days of the time we were obliged to stay here the excessive humidity
of the place made both the Consul and myself quite ill, and incapable of doing any-
thing. The missionaries have lately retired from the place on account of its un-
healthiness and gone to Bandawe, a place more north on the west side of the lake.
A number of good houses have been built here, but they are now rapidly falling
into decay. At present a young native named Albert has charge of the scholastic
and religious work of the station. Teaching in reading, writing, and arithmetic is
carried on every morning for about two hours, and on Sandays a religious service is
conducted by the schoolmaster Albert, at which, it is said, all the people of the
place attend. The station itself is in charge of a man named Mlolo, who acts as
chief of the district. The people living at or near the station are Nyassas and Yaos.
The Yaos were brought here by the missionaries, and the Nyassas have come to
live near the station, feeling that they get some kind of protection by living near
the Europeans. They still retain their old superstitious customs. Only a short
time ago a woman accused two men of being wizards, stating that she had seen them
take the body of a child, who had lately died, into a house, and that there they had
eaten it On the charge being made the men protested their innocence, but to no
aTail; they had to submit to the ordeal of mwavi-drinking. The mwavi is a
mixtara made from certain plants, which varies in its action, probably from the
manner in which it is prepared. If the person who is made to drink it is sick and
recovers, it is taken as a proof that he is innocent, but if he dies he must have been
guilty according to native ideas. The men above mentioned were made to drink
the mwavi, and both died. Some short time afterwards the IlaUi steamer of the
African Lakes Company came down and anchored off the station. On hearing of
the affair the Europeans on board protested against the use of mwavi, and after
some persuasion induced the people to dig open the grave to see whether the body
was really buried or not. They did this, feeling sure that the body had not been
eaten, and hoping thereby to convince the natives that the use of mwavi was entirely
wrong, and not a test in any way of a person^s guilt or innocence. The grave was
dug open, and at a depth of 12 feet the child's body was there found. Many of the
people were astonished, and admitted that in this case the mwavi had fuled. But
it did not convince the people that though the mwavi had failed in this case that
it was a wrong thing to use, or that it would fail in other oases. The old chief
Mlolo told me that though the Yaos and those connected with the mission were
obliged to give up such customs, still the Nyassas who lived near would not think
of doing 10. It is hardly to be expected that natives will give up such customs
quickly. If the practice was simply for the purpose of determining the guilt or
innocence of a person, then it might easily be given up ; but as it is one of the
safest and most powerful means the natives have of removing obnoxious persons, it
is not to be expected that it will be quickly abolished.
On June 4th we left Livingstonia at 4 p.m., and proceeded south over a spur of
the Kunguni Hills along the west shore of the promontory. At 5. SO we reached
the Tillage of Mpamba, and camped for the night. The village consists of a string
of huts built along the coast-line at the foot of. the hilL Nearly all the people were
away in their gardens driving away the monkeys which live in the hills. The
damage they do to the garden crops is very great, and this the natives here feel all
the more because they have only the rocky sides of the hill where they can grow
anything.
The next morning we went on past the villages of Mpangu, Nyamkumba,
Ifiamngsmo, Mpande, and the border village of Mbapi at 2 p.m. At Mamngano's
we foond a blacksmith busy forging hatchets. These are. made from iron picked up
184
A JOURNEY FROM BLJLNTYRE
in the swainps and bogs of the district. The iroQ was apparently of a poor quality,
being very scaly. There was one hat-chet which the smith seemed to value, the
iron of which cauie from the hill& on the west side uf the lake. The smith's anvil
was a great stoDe, for a sledge-hammer he naed a large stooe, and for finishing his
work he has amall hammers, probably of his own make. With the&e rough too!s
he turns out hatchets, axes, arrow and spefir heads, hoes, and other implements of
such good quality and finiish, that a European smith would hardly believe that the
work was accomplished with such tools. Moat of the country from Marungano's is
very fertile, covered with fine crops of Indian corn and millet. Between Mpande**
and Mbapi's wo crossed the dry bed of the river Lusangadzi. This is a considerable
river in the wet seastJO, Its bed being some 30 yards wide with banks 12 feet high*
The marks on the banks show that the river is full during the rains. The Htrata of
mud and sand seen in tiie banks show that all the adjacent flat country has been
gradually made up> or rather that it was formerly part of the bed of tlie lake from
which the waters have now receded, Mbapi's vdlage is extensive, an J surrounded
by a high fence of trees. The people all along the shores of the bke in these
districts are chiefly Nyassas. Whilst walking about the village of Mbapi» I saw
a little hand-loom for making cloth from cotton yarn. The cloth produced was
in pieces about 7 feet by C, and very strong, very much like stout canvas, but
softer. At Mbapi's we laid in a supply of foud, and proceeded the next morning Ut
cross the plain whtcli separates this district from that held by the Mangoni. It h
nearly all a continuous long flat, largo portions of which am swamped during the
wot season. We cami>ed near a little stream of water, and next morning went on
to the village of M|>ulufia, This is the frontier village of the Mangoni in this
direction, and is held by a sub«chief named (jhakuawa. On our way from Mbapi^s
we i>as»ed several sites where villages had once stood. We learnt that the late
Mponda, several years ago, had attacked and destroyed those villages. He was
driven out of his own country on the west side of Nyiissa by the Man sod i, and he
ill his turn attacked the Nyassa villages at the south-west end of the lake. Taking
the people thus captured with him, he went and established the villages now ruled
over by the present M pond a. About this forest and flat there were the marks of
plenty of large game, but we did not see any^ owing to the size of the caravan, and
probably also to the long grass with which the country was covered. We breakfasted
atChakuawa's village under a large Mtoiido tree, the shade of which covers the baraza,
or gossip-place of the village. From Chakuawa*s wo went on to M hen's, where we
aaw some more cloth being made, thence to the river Bivanji, where^ after croasiDg,
we camped on the left bauk. The whole of ihe country is very fertile, corn is
grown in abundance, and al«o large quantities of the cotton plant. The village of
Mtenganjila i;* o|>pai*ite, on the right bank, and a little in advance of where we
camped are the villages ot MaCua. The inhabitants are Kyassas and Yaos, ruled
over by ilangoni head-men.
On starting the next morning we passed a number of villages with extensive
gardens, and in two hours reached the village of Chifisi Kwipa, the chief head-man
nf the villages in this part of Cbikusi s country. We stayed here to breakfast, and
were informed by Chifisi that we must not go alone to Chikuai^s ; that he would
undertake to guide us there, and arrange tlie meetings, as that was part of his duty.
At 10.30 A.M, we resumed the march ; Chifisi, who was accompanied by some of his
men, leading the way. During the day we crossed aud rccrossed the Tuta, a small
strcara which runs into the Bwanji. On oar way we passed over a rather steep hill.
On the top we found large heaps of stones, which reminded me of similar heaps I had
*4een on the road from Zanzibar to Unyamwezi, On inquiry I found they had been
raised in a similar manner. Probably the spot is regarded with some idea of sanctity,
for any one pnssiii? tbis way on businesfi throws a stone on tlie heap to secure
( to hb undenaking. At the foot of the hill we crossed the Tuta again, and
camped on its left bank. Here there are no villages, hot the conntry has the appear-
fttice of being: very fertile* The next morning we ascended the hilly district ofNyandi,
wiih the rocka Ondwe oa the right, and Funi on the left. At 9 a-m. we reachetl
the banks of the Liveleze. This river rises, one day's journey to the south, out of a
mnall lake near the villages of Bands, of which Kamkodo is the head-nian. After
resting on the Livelcze we moved on to the village of Malimba, situated at the foot
of the bigb bill Chirohwe,
From this place we sent two men to acquaint the king of our approach to his
town, and to ask his permission to visit Mm, They returned witli tho message that
we were to move on the next morning, and that the kings nephew Zieogea would
meet and take ns to the king.
The next day we ascended the hill Kamtanda at the south of Chirobwe. On
descending a little on the other side we came to a small strciam which runs south
and enters the Liveleze. Here we breakfasted, and then ascended to the top of the
ridge, which opens out into an exteoHive pkteau. We stopped hero to make some
observations, and towards eveninp^ reached Geagea's village, where we camped for
the night. There are but few villai^es in this part of Chiknsrs country, and the
land IB very poor. When we w^ere abont to start the next morning, two messengers
came from Ziengea, saying that we were to go on to Mavnnji's village, and await
him there. This we did, and iibout 11.0 a.m. Ztengea came up, and we had to
go with him to his village of Mai we. On our way we crossed the nv^er Lifobwc,
which rises in the Dexa mountains and empties itself into the Zambeze.
We remained at Maiwe for two days waiting for a message from the king. He
ultimately sent word that we were to move on to his chief town Lnisini, where we
stayed two days more waiting for the king's arrivaL Finally we had to move on
to Kujipori village to meet him.
The next morning we started a^ain^ our course lying along the left bank of
the Msunguzi. Leaving the hill Mang^ani on our right we went on for 14 hours,
and then crossed the streams Chigaga and Chikuhwo in close succession. About a
mile further on we arrived near the villa^re of Kujifiori. ftlessengera were then sent
to the king to announce our arrival, and after waiting for an hour he came out to
receive oa. A seat was prepared for him on some bales of cloth, to which he was
conducted when he arrived. The Consul and I then went otit of I he tent to hirn.
He was very cordial in his manner, and expressed himself as pleased that w^e had
come to see him. Afterwards when the camp was arranged, the men of our caravan
were drawn up in line, and three volleys were fired as a mark of respect to the
king. This seemed to please him much. After some conversation, the king
moved to go away ; the natives, of whom there were some 200 or 3O0 sitting about,
at once set up a low bleating sound, as a mark of respect to him.
The king Chikusi is of middle height, but of extraordinary stoutness, so much
so that he can only walk for a short distance at a time, and that very slowly.
Except this obesity, there is but little to distinguish him from any of his subjects.
His dress is no better, and not so good as that of some of his hea*l-men. The
folluwing morning the king paid on ofliclal visit to the Consul, and remained with
him upwards of two hours, discussing matters of business.
The whole of Chikusi's home district is a large plateau, which begins at the
ridge of the hills of which Chirobwe forms an elevated fiart, and extends away
t4)wards the we^t far beyond the hili ranges of Samaug'omlw and Kandunda. Over
all this district there is scarcely a tree to be seen, the fuel commonly used by the
people being corn stalks and ox^ung. The land near the east is very poor, but as
18G
A JOURNLV FROM BLA^ITYRE
one proceeds towards the west it greatly improves in appearancejand all the country
around Loisini and Kujipori is very fertile and extensively cultivated. There are a
mimlwr of sniaU streams traversing tlie whole conn try ♦ These have their sources in
ihe hill ranges dotted all over the plateau. These keep the hvnd somewhat damp,
and then the plateau bcin^ at an elevation of nearly 5CK)0 feet, the land does not
liecome so scorched and dried up here na in the plains below. Wc found it very cold
on the plateau ; tho nunimum thermometer one night was as low as 37° F. This
may not seem much to Europeans, but by Africans and travellers in Africa so low a
temperature is felt very nmch. From a sanitary point of view, I think the plateau
in many places is very healthy, and several suitable spots could easily be selected for
Kuropeau residencesj but it loses much by its want of good scenery and by its bleak
flud treelefis appearance. Food is generally ciieap and plentiful, fuwls beiug bought
at the rate of six for two yards of calico, value 11(/. The people, most of whom
have been taken prisoners from the various Nyfksea and Yao tribes, are in many
respects different and superior to the peo[ile of th« same tribes liviug in the
plains. These latter are generally iotnistve, boisterous, and often without any
show of respect, %vhilst tbu people who have been brought up under the Mangoni
ndo are most respectful and quiet. When they come with their articles for sale,
they first sit some 15 or 20 yards away; on being iuvited to approach, they
do so. There are bnt few of the true Mangoni stock, the bulk of the people
called Mangoni being men who have been taken in war, and then traiucid np
to the Mangoni cnstomH, There arc probably more true Mangoni women than
men. They are neariy all the wives of the king. They are easily distiugmslied
from other women by their light colour, and by being generally taller and
stonter than the ordinary women. The common drcsa of the women la a loin cloth.
Some may be eeen with another cloth in addition to this, witb which they wrap
themselves up. Others have neither tlie one nor the other, but simply fasten a
ijtring round the waist, to which in front they attach a piece of cloth about two
inches wide ; this is drawn lightly between the legs, rind the end fastened behind to
the string round the waist. They are very fond of bead oroameuts, which consist of
neck Laces, bangles, cartings or plugs, enuf)'- boxes, and other articles. The women
also wear a great variety of brass bangles. With the exception of the chiefs and head-
men the dress of the men is very meagre, hke that of moat African tribes, con-
sistin^ as it does of a loin clotli or piece of skin as a substitute j in addition tlie
Mangoni wear a private covering jneculiar to all the Zulu tribes. The arms used are
chiefly clubs and spears, in addition to which they all carry the large ovabshai^ed
.shield. Bows and arrows may sometimes be seen. Unlike the Masai it is said tht-y
do not throw the club, but on coming t<j close quarters, they strike their opponents*
legs, and when they have brought them down, then spear them. The king has a
few guns, but it appears they are never uaed in the raids Ufion the neighbouring
tribes, but for elephant hunting, or occasionally when parties are sent on duty to a
neighbouring territory, in which, case a gun or two is taken, probably for the
pnrjx>se of firing a friendly eahitc on arrival. King Chikusi seems to have oompleto
control over all his country, and there is the greatest resj>ect shown by the ordinary
people both to him and his bead-men. This is owing probably to his deaj>otic and
tyrannical rule, for be has the credit of removing at once any person who is unfortu-
nate enough to make himself obnoxious to him. It was said that only a short time
ago the head-man of Luisini village, being on a visit to the king on business, he
requested permission, aa night drew on, to retire, and at this the king took great
offence, and ordered him to be taken out and speared, wbicb was done. The houses
of the Mangoni, excepting those of the king at Luisini and Kujipori, are most
miserable buildings* They are like the ICya^sa round hula, but much smaller, and
almo&t all in a dilapidated state. This undoubtedly is owing to the fact that there
TO ANGONI-LAND AND BACK. 187
18 no wood in the neighbourhood. The king's houses at Luisini, which are the best
we saw in Angoni-land, are large, being some 80 feet in diameter, with bell-shaped
tops. Each wife at Luisini has an inclosure to herself, in which is included the
rojal hut, with two or three smaller ones, in which the lady's attendants live, and
space sufficient to conduct the general household work of grinding com and brewing
beer being carried on. All these are kept very clean, and well swept, which is
quite in contrast to the general appearance of the other villages.
We remained at Kujipori till the 19th June, the king being unwilling that
we should leave before. On our departure we were given an escort of ten men,
and an official was sent in charge. They accompanied us to Mpimbi on the river
Shir^. where the Angoni territory in that direction terminates.
We started about 10.40 a.m., and passing under Mpulu hill, reached the village
of Kamtawila on the right bank of the Lifobwe at 2.20. We stayed here to
lunch, and then crossing the Lifobwe reached the village of Easungwe and camped
at 5.20.
On June 20th we left Easungwe's and reached the villages of Goma at 11.45.
On our way we crossed several streams of good water all making their way to the
Lifobwe. From Goma's the path lies between the hill Mbidzi to the north, and
some spurs of the Lipepeta range on the south. On issuing from the pass we
traversed some undulating ground and descended into the district of Eamkodo.
Thence we went on to the Lisipi, and camped on its right bank. This river rises on
Eitungwe hill. The next morning we descended into the Ncheu district, head-man
Eadole. After a rest we went on to Bangala village, where Lunduka is chief. At
4.50 P.H. we crossed the Msipi, which rises on Mount Ncheu, and marched on to the
villages of Sakapi, in the district of the Msipi. The whole of the country between the
Lifobwe and the villages of Ziwandea is poor, the soil is dry and little cultivated.
On the 22nd June, at 8. 0 a.h., we crossed the Luvelevi river, which has its source
in the M vai Hills, in the district of Eama, head-man Njala. At 5 . 40 we reached the
stream Eapeni, which flows into the Luvelevi ; this we crossed and camped on the
right bank. The journey was for the last two days over gently undulating ground,
except at one place, where there is a rapid descent from the central plateau to this
lower one. The next day we made a short journey over a fairly level country, and
reached the village of Ziwandea. This is a collection of broken-down villages on
both banks of the dry bed of the Mulunguzi. During the rains its water flows into
the Luvelevi. Here the land is very good, and large crops are raised. Judging
from the present young Indian com,- it is possible that the natives have fresh com
all the year round. Bice is grown plentifully here, and sold at Matope to the
Europeans on board the steamers which call there. The next day we had a very
rough walk thTough long coarse grass, which renders travelling very tedious, when
beaten down over the path. At noon we crossed the dry bed of the Nazipili river.
It had cut its way through a deep stratum of white limestone, which, by report,
lies under the soil of all the country about Mpimbi. At 1.0 p.m. we reached the
villages of chief Euratali on the right bank of the Luvelevi. After stopping to
lunch, we moved on to the village of the head-man Nyozera. Next day we reached
Mpimbi, on the river Shir^, about 11 .0 a.m. After a little delay we bade farewell to
the Angoni escort, and were taken over to the left bank by Mpimbi's people. We
then moved on and camped in the forest. The next moming wo started early and
reached the top of Che Mlumbi's hill at 12.15. We rested in his village to lunch,
and in the afternoon went on to Zomba^ where we arrived at 5.30, and pitched our
tents in the Consulate grounds.
On Monday we started for Blantyre, arriving there on Wednesday, July 1st.
( 188 )
^ GEOGBAPHICAL NOTES, ^^
Geographical EdEcation.— -As stated by Mr. F. Galton in the die-^
CDBBion on Mr, Mackioder's address (ajite, p, 166), throe delegates of our
Council (Mr. Galton, Hon. G. C, Brodrick, and Mr, Freshfield), met (on
the 10th Febmary) delegates of the Hebdomadal Council of Oxfords
to confer on the subject of the proposed eetabljehment of a Keadership
of geography at that Univeraity, On the 18th February, another dopnta-
tion, consisting of Mr. Gabon, Sir Thomas Wade, General J. T. Walker,
and Mr, Freshfield, met for a similar purpose a Coinmittee of the Senate of
the University of Cambridge, The results of both these conferences,
though of course not final, were most encouraging to the prospecta of
the recognition of geograpliy at both IjniversitieB,
Mr. Last's Exploratian of the Hamuli Hilli. — We have received a
brief preliminary account of the results of Mr. Laet^s visit to the Namuli
Hills, in a letter sent by the traveller from Quillimane on the 6 th
December last. He devoted three months to the task of exploring this
region, which it will be recollected was the main object of his expedi-
tion. During this time he went almost completely round the hills, but
found it impossible to reach the summit of tho principal peak or double
peak ; in fact» he came to the conclnsioD that it was inaccessible. Spurs,
to the height of 2000 feet or more, extend from it on all sides, above
which the two cones rise precipitously. There is a clump of trees near
the top of one of the cones, near which arc probably tho sources of a
small but perennial stream, which flows down tho eastern side.
Before leaving the district, Mr. Last, with a party of twenty men,
ascended the banks of the Lukugu river to its source, which lies west
of Kamuli, at the north foot of Mount Pilani. He found the whole
country well watered and fertile, though very sparsely inhabited. Un-
fortunately, the Lukugu river, the main watercourse of this promising
region, owing to its long series of rapids and waterfalls, is unnavigabldj
even by canoes, and its mouth is closed to coasting vessels by
formidable bar.
Ihaglaud and Germany in East Africa. — The priDcipal provisions of
the recent treaty between the two Governments regarding the boundaries^
of their respective territorial interests in East Africa, and also defining ^
the possess ions of the Sultan of Zanzibar, may be summarised as follows :
— Both powers recognise the sovereignty of the Sultan over the islands
of Zanzibar, Pemba, Lamu, and Mafia, and also over all the small islands
within 12 nautical miles of Zanzibar. Germany assents to the agree-
ment between England and France regarding the independence of
Zanzibar. The two Powers also recognise as the possessions of the
Saltan on the continent an uninterrupted stretch of coast from the mouth ^B
of the Miningani river on the south (near Cape Delgado) to Kipioi on
the north, but extending only 10 nautical miles inland. Both Powers
I
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
189
recognise the coast from Eipini to the north end of Manda Bay as be-
longing to Witn. Great Britain agrees to support the negotiations of
Germany with the Sultan by which the latter is to grant a lease of the
harbour dues of Dar-es-Salam and Pangani to the German East African
Society, in consideration of an annual payment on the part of the
Society, and also to use its influence to promote a friendly arrangement
with reference to the opposing claims of the same Society and the Sultan
on the Kilima-Njaro territory. With regard to the respective spheres
of interest of the two Powers, that of Germany extends from the
HoYuma in the south to the river Wanga, Kilima-Njaro and the south
end of Victoria Nyanza in the north, while that of Great Britain is con-
fined to tho country between Kilima-Njaro and the Tana river. The
actual line of demarcation runs from the mouth of the Wanga in a
straight line to Lake Jipe, along the east and north shore of the lalce
across the river Lumi, dividing equally the districts of Taveta and
Chaga, and then along the northern slope of the Kilima-Njaro range in
a direct line to a point in 1° S. lat., on the eastern shore of Lake Victoria
Nyanza. Each Power agrees to make no acquisition and establish no
protectorate within the limits of the other's territory. The German
Protectorate had formerly only been declared over Useguha, TJkami,
Nguru, and Usagara. We hope to be able to give a map showing these
new political boundaries in the April number of the ' Proceedings.'
Eonvier's Astronomical Observations to fix Positions on the Oongo.—
The report of Captain Eouvier on his recent journey to the Congo,
when, jointly with Lieut. Liebrechts and Captain Massari he acted as
one of the Commisbioners for laying down the boundary between the
Congo State and the French possessions, promises to become most
valuable to geographers. It is to be accompanied by an atlas of
38 maps, showing the regions explored on various scales. The astro-
nomical observations upon which these maps will be based have just
been published in the 'Annales hydrographiques.' They include
79 latitudes, one longitude determined absolutely, and 70 longitudes
determined chronometrically and adjusted to Libreville on the Gabun,
as laid down on the French Admiralty chart (9° 26' 33" E, of Green-
wich), and to N'Ganchu, which was determined, by thirteen sets of
lunars, to be in 16"^ 12' E. It is satisfactory to find that Captain
Rouvier 8 longitudes agree very nearly with those of Lieut. Mizon.
^ The principal positions ai-e : —
Loango ..
4 38 25 c5.
11 49 10 E.
Equator Station 0 2 0 N.
18 13 10 E.
Kitabi .. ..
>Iakabana ..
4 10,,
3 25 10 „
12 11 0 „
12 37 50 „
^T^v\ } 120 30 8.
(Alima) .. /
16 15 20 „
T«ndima-Niadl
4 6 40„
13 4 40 „
Leketi .. .. 1 35 50 „
14 54 50 „
Maoyangs ..
4 53 30 .,
14 22 50 „
Diele .. .. 1 41 30 „
14 42 40 „
BrazzaTille ..
4 16 55 „
15 17 10 „
Franceville .. 1 36 50 „
13 34 30 „
N'Ganchn ..
3 17 3„
16 12 0 „
Boue .. ..0 5 20 „
11 54 40 „
BoDga .. ..
1 6 40,,
16 52 10 „
Libreville .. 0 23 25N.
9 26 33 „
N'Konja ..
0 8 40,,
17 41 30 „
No. TIL— Maboh 1887.]
190
OEOGRAPHICAL NOTES,
Tho true longitudo of Loopoldviile on Shinloj^ Pool appears tlni§ to
te 15"* 15' E. (inat^jail of 15"^ B\ as determiiKicl by Herr Baiimatin from
two sets of liinars).
Dr. Lenz's Expeiiition, — In a communieatiDii to the new niiml>er of
the * Mittheilnngen ' of the Yienna Geographical Society, Dr. Franz
liitfer V. Le Monnier refers to the delay wLicIi has taken place in Dr,
Lenz's leaving Zanzibar. From a Times telegram we learn that he
was expected to leave about ten days ago. It is stated that two interest -
ing letters (to be piiMished in the next number) havo been receivetl
from Dr. Lenz, one dated from Lake Tanganyika in September, and the-
other from the river Shire, in December 1886. Meanwliile we are told
that the expedition left Kasongoon Juno 20th, greatly hindered by tho
loss of several of its men through small-pox. On Jidy lltli Kibonde
was reached, a park-like plateau passed, and a mountain eros^ecL On
August 7th tho expedition reachetl the Mtowa country, on the went
ahore of Lake Tanganyika, and was received by Captain Here ou
Kavala Island. Ujiji was entered on August 15th, Here Dr. Lonz
discovered that on account of the warlike raids of tho Arabs and the
excitement in Uganda, it would bo impossible for him to push northward**
to Emin Pasha, aa was his original intention. Ho resolved, therefore,
instead of proceeding by Tahora to Zanzil^ar, to go southwards to the
south end of Lake Tanganyika, and onwards tu Lake Kyassa. He reached
the latter at Karon ga's town, pToceD<lecl, apparently b}' land, to the south
end, along the Shire', and so down tu (^uillimane. Dr. von Le Monnier
points out that this is tho ninth timo in w^hicb Africa has been crossed
by white travellers, so fur as known. Dr. Lenz has crossed the eonti-
lient from the mouth of the Congo to the mouth of the Zambesi in less
than 17 months. The previous expeditions havo been those of Living-
stone, 1854— G (Loanda to Quillimano), 20 months; Cameron (Bagamoyo
to Catembela), 2 years and 8 months, lS7:i-5; Stanley, 1874-7 (Baga-
moyo to Banana), 2 years and 9 montlis ; Serpa Pinto, 1877-D (Benguela
to Durban), 16 months; Wissmann, 1881-2 (Loanda to Sadani), 1 yeai-
10 months ; A mot, 1881-4 (Dnrbfin to Benguela), 3 years 3 months ;
Capello'and Ivens, 1884-5 (Mopsamcdes to Quillimane), 14 months;
Qloerup, 1884-6 (Banana to Zanzibar), 3 years.
Guinea, — The unknown country lying to tho north of Togo Land
which, it will be remembered, was partly traversed hy Herr Zbller, somcg
two years ago, has been further explored liy aX\cncb missionarj', nametl
Baudin. Another missionary, M. ^Menager, had in 1885 penetrated
heyond Agome, Zollcr*s farthest point, to Adangbe. In the bulletin (Xo-
5, 1880), of the Geographical Society of Lyons will bo found a short
account of M. Bandin's jouTne3^ He started in January 188(5, from
Ague on the coast, and pushed into the interior as far as the town of
AtakpamOj which at the time of his visit was beginning to recover itself
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 191
after its destmotion by Dahomey. The traveller intended to proceed
still farther north, but was prevented by the opposition of the natives.
He accordingly turned eastwards and reached Togodo, whence he effected
his retnm jonmey down the river Mono to the coast. A map of the
traveller's itinerary is published with the paper.
The Monsoons. — In Mr. H. F. Blanford*s report on the Administra-
tion of the Meteorological Department of India for 1885-6, there is a
statement of considerable geographical interest with reference to the
monsoons, which tends greatly to modify the prevailing conception as to
the origin and real character of these winds. Briefly, the summer
monsoon is regarded as an anomalous diversion of the south-east trade-
wind of the South Indian Ocean, caused by the high temperature deve-
loped on the continent of Asia in the early summer months. But Mr.
Blanford points out, the wind-charts of the North Indian Ocean, now in
course of preparation, show that the south-east trade does not, as a rule,
blow across the Equator, and changing its course from south-east to
south and finally to south-west, pass gradually into a south-west
monsoon. A rainy belt in the neighbourhood of the Equator exists
throughout the year, which is fed by the south-east trades. In this
belt the winds are very variable, blowing from all quarters ; and it is.
only some 6° N. of the Equator that the monsoon is established as a
comparatively steady current of wind. The monsoon, therefore (in so
far as it is a south-weat monsoon), is drawn from a reservoir of air over
the equatorial zone, fed by the south-east trades, but it is not the south-
east trade wind simply diverted from its former course. Moreover, Mr.
Blanford maintains that the Indian summer monsoon is not simply a sotUh-
west monsoon. On the Arabian Sea, and especially beyond the tropic,
the winds are as frequently west as south-west, and not unfrequently
north-west ; and this is also the case on the west coast of India. The
less southerly or the more northerly the wind, the finer is the weather
and the smaller is the rainfall of the Bombay Presidency. According
to Mr. Blanford, the explanation of these facts is that, at certain times,.
a considerable portion of the air which enters into the western branch
of the monsoon is not drawn from equatorial regions at all, but from the
dry coasts and still drier plains and mountains to the north. In all
years, in the summer season, this dry air famishes the greater part of
the winds of the lower Indus Valley and Western Eajputana, and hence
the rainlessness of this portion of Western India. As Mr. Blanford
points out, these conclusions have a very practical bearing, and are
certainly of much interest in connection with the physical geography
of India and of Central Asia.
Inflnence of Forests on Climate. — In the same report Mr. Blanford
describes the steps which have been taken in India to discover to what
extent forests influence the rainfall. A few observatories have been
p 2
192
GEOGIUPHICAL NOTES,
establiBhed in the Ajmer© forests, and the results so far have been to
tihow slightly but appreciably higher rainfall in the forest than with-
out. However, it is admitted tliat more careful inquiry must be made
before any definite Gonclusions can be drawji. Mr, Blanford points .out
that M. WoeikofF, in a paper ou the Bubject, with special reference to
India^ essentially supports the view which he himself regards as
probable.
Jotimey to the Soureea of the Finke Eiver.— Mr. Charles Chewings
has recently published in the Adelaide Observer an account of his journey
to the sources of the Finke rivor» which baa now been issued in pamphlet
fomip accompanied by a %^aluable map. The Finke river is tbe largest
of all the Central Australian watercourses; it drains the whole of the
oonntry on either side for scoria, and even hundreds of miles in some
directions. It is sinuous in its windings, and is fringed with a wide
belt of gum trees on either side the whole of its course. The journey
was mado in 1885, and the distance travelled was considerably over
5000 miles. The author hoWs that the far inland tract of Central
Australian pastoral land is by no m(?an8, as it has been termed, a desert ;
on the contrary, much of the country traversed w-as found to be excel-
lently watered and well grassed. Although at times the expedition
followed on the tracks of other travellers, a great deal of new country
has been explored, for a description of which we must refer our readers
to tbe authorV full and interesting account.
Former Tegetation of Iceland, — The question of the former vege-
tation of Iceland was dealt with at some length hy M* Fedderaen, in
a paper recently read by him before the Geographical Society at
Ct>penhagen, on bis explorations in the southern jiart of ^ the island*
His discoveries in the valley of the geysers appear to falsify Dr.
Labonne's * conclusions as to the character of the ancient vegetAtion of
the country. M. Feddersen found there great trunks of trees which
had been dug up from the sandy soil, showing that at one time this
district was covered with large forests of gigantic birch trees. His
theory, it will be remembered, is supported by the ** Sagas'* or
hymns of the ancient Icelanders. He has also boon able to prove that
an immense arm of tbe sea penetrated formerly into the south part of
Iceland, but has disappeared in consequence of an upheaval of the soil.
A curious fact noted by tbe traveller was that salmon ascend tbe
river Elve with the warm water of the geysers* M. Feddersen confirms
Dr. Labonne*8 observations regarding the still active character of the
gejsers.
Journey across Labrador.— * The Church Missionary Intelligencer*
for June of last year, publishes an account of a jotimey across Labrador,
from Little Whale river to Ungava Bay, undertaken by the Eev. E» J,
^ • Prcc. R.G.S,. 1887,p.52.
4
4
4
G90GULPSIC1L 50nS. 1^
I^ek. one of tike C&vrck Sacktr's misEi'nuie& Mr. Ptck, with foca>
le& lit^ WLile TiTu- OB Jnhr ITtL, iSSi, &&d after dOGsing
part cf Bkii^Kx^i GyiIC whidi is about tlurtr* raikiB
vUe. reftcbed a ssill irrer, asid entered a email diain of likeB lyic^
abovt fiait W wvi^ T^ ctmilji here ^vas liilly, ai>d in scvse places
MacwTtuliiiiwi After paiffTng tlirengli azKidter diain of lakes, lying
abos! eart ly Aorts^lkalf-i^ordi, tbe party raac^ied *- Clear Water Lake."^
His lake k abovt iortr milea kng, and about fifty in breadth. On
leavxBg its noniieia dkove tber paaaed into a anall livier. The
coantiy here v»b nveh lover than that hitherto fcen. Afto* making
» lev portagea^ the party entered '* Seal La^^ which is about sercnty
mile* kmg. ani which Taiies much in Ireadth, being abcmt its
wddle qmJie narrow, in ccther places measxziing perhaps ftosn thirty
to fifty miles brc^d, and studded with iflanofi On learing its south-
gmttui boandazy, they entered a small rirer, and passed into a
ixther large lake. The coontry hereaboats was xery moantaino«is.
T^ remainder of the jommey was aooomplisbed by following the course
of the zirer to Fort Chimo, one of the Hiidsi?ti's Bay Company's posts,
ITngsim Bay, where they arziTed on the llth of AngnsL
Xxvor, XraxiL — The Xingn rixer and its sources are to be the
aeene of farther exploratioDS by Dr. Karl tx>q den Steinen, the enter*
prising tzsTeDer whose Talnable journey in IBSl, in the same region, we
ikodatd at aosae length in the number oi oar * Prcceedings' for August
lasL The present expedition includes Herr W. t. d. Steinen, who aooom-
panied the former party. Dr. P. Ehrenrdch, known to geographers by his
trsTfls on the Bio Booe (Brazil), and Dr. P. TcgeL who with Dr. K.
T-. d. Steinen formod part of the German mission to Sovith Geucgia.
The expedition left Germany on 25th Jannaiy last em remit for Coyahs,
which win again be the starting-paini. The efforts of the party will be
directed to the more complete surrey of the three important river
sooroes of the Xingn, e^^ecialhrc^ the eastern arm, the EnliseiL Another
important fioatare of ihe work of the expedition will be the study of
those Indian tribes whidi still remain nntooched by ciTilisation ; among
these Dr. ron Steinen intends to make a long stay.
Suiieji. — ^An extract from a report presented to
the Braziliaa Goremment on the work of the Commission (IST^IS^)
appointed to determine the boundaries between Br&zQ and Yenei:iiela on
the Upper Xegro and Bio feanoo, is published in the ^ Zeitschrift ' (No. 4)
of the Geographical Society of Berlin. The report, which was drawn np
by Lieitt.-Colonel F. de Aranjo, not only gives the results of the sanrey
as regards the bonndary line, bat contains geogr^hical and topo-
graphical information of the highest importanoe, which has led to the
rectification of the coarses of the nnmeroas tribataiies of the Bio Xegro
and BioBrukoo. A m^ on the scale 1 : 1,200,000 aooompanies the report.
194
OBITL^iRr.
.Another bonndarj survey is comiaeiicmg operations at tlie oppoeite
extremity of the Empire, The QoTemmetits of Brazil and the Argen-
tine Republic agreed some time ago to the appointment of a united
oommiBaioa to explore and thoroughly eurvey the boundary territory
between the two countries, with the view to a friendly settlement
of the lino of frontier. After a long delay the CommisBion has got
to work. It includes M, J- L. Gannendia, Pr. A, Seelstrang, the
well-known cartographer, M. Y. Virasoro, sunreyor, and M* G. Niederlein,
who has charge of the geographical and natural history part of the
work. The operations of this oommifision are expected to extend over
nearly two years, and will donbleea add much to our knowledge of the
geography of South America.
Sir Charles M. MacGregor.*--Sir Charles MacGregor was the son of Major
Robert Guthrie MacGregoFj Bengal Artillery, and grandson of Major-General James
MacGre;i;or, Bengal Cavalry, of tbe MacGregors of Glen gyle, his mother being a
daughter of General Archibald WaUon, o.b., Bengal Cavalry. He was bom at Agra
on the 12lh Aiiguat, 1840, so that at the date of liia death he waa in his forty*
seFentli year. He was educated at Marlborough^ and entered the Bengal Army at
pjthe very early age of sixteen* He reached India just in time to take his tihare in
the events of the Mutiny, and exhibited his soldierly qualities early in his career.
He waa present in no leea than fifteen actlooe, besiden the siege and capture of
Lucknow, and was twice wounded. His distinguished courage marked him eren
then, and many feats of pluck and endurance are recorded of him» His next cam-
paign was in Chiua, where he was twice wounded in the action at Sin-ho, He was
then serving witk the 19th Bengal Cavalry (Fane*s Horee), and there was not, in that
distinguiahed regiment, a better s^jecimen of the ** beau sabreur " than Charles
MacGregor, His chivalrous nature, which always prompted Mm to take the part of
the weak against the stmng, and his outtipoken plainness of speech were a little apt
to place him occasionally in a position antagonistic to the interests of military
discipline, and, it may be added^ to bis own interests also. It is said (but with
what truth I cannot tell) that his gallantry in action during tbe China campaign
would have won for him the Victoria Cross, a distinction which he covet«d above
all others, but for his outspoken profession of faith in the innocence of a tr(.x)i>er
whom he considei-ed to be unjustly punished,
Tt was PS Brigade-Major and Deputy- Assist ant Quartermastcr-Getieral in Bhutan
(1864-66) that I first made his acquaintance, when he had an excellent opportunity
for indulging hia passion for acquiring new geographical iDformalion, and filling up
biank sjiaces in maps. The two columns which advanced into the Bhutan Hills
were widely separated hy a strip of intervening hilbcountry, densely covered with
jungle, and skirted by the pkins and forests of the ** Dears,*' about which very little
waa then known* It was thought iiossible that between the two hases of operations
at Buia and Dcwangiri, a tbird route migbt be found lead tog more directly to
I
• By Lieut-Colonel T. H. Holdieh^ b.e.
OBlTUARr, 196
i'linakha, the capital of Bhutan. MacGregor accompanied the survey parties in
ezplofing for it, and acquired much valuable information about this remote region.
He was again wounded in Bhutan, at the actions of Dalimkote and Bala, and
obtained a breret for his gallantry.
We next met in Abyssinia, where he was actively employed on the Staff, and
was one of the lucky few who were present at the action of Arogi and the capture
of Magdala. Although Abyssinia offered an exceptionally fine field for geographical
research, from the fact that the line of route followed during the advance to Magdala
was pnustically the main line of watershed between the Nile basin and the Red Sea,
it was not possible to carry out explorations very far, partly owing to the rapidity
with which the expedition progressed, and partly to our somewhat insecure relations
with the various tribes through whose territory we passed. MacQregor*s hands were
too full of work just then for him to have much leisure for his favourite pursuit.
He oontinoed on Staff employ after the Abyssinian expedition till 1874, and was
appointed Director of Military Transport during the Tuhut famine.
In 1869 Colonel MacGregor married Fanny, daughter of Sir Heniy Durand, the
Lieatenant-Govemor of the Punjab. It was her death that prompted his first
wanderings in Persia in 1875, which resulted in his book called ' Journey through
Khorassan.'
At the time when he undertook this journey our geographical knowledge of
KhoiaaBan was exceedingly limited, whibt the interest that was attached to this
portion of Persia and to the north-western districts of Afghanistan was daily
becoming intensified owing to the gradual encroachments of Russia towards the
Pernan and Afghan border. The book appeared just when it was wanted, and for
several years Macgregor was imdoubtedly our best authority on the geography of
the vague regions of the Afghan boundary. He travelled right across Persia, passing
through Shiraz, Yezd, and Birjand, to the Afghan border, at that time infested with
Turcoman raiders ; and it was not without considerable risk, and many amusing
adventures, that he made his way over the border to Pahra, from which place he
purposed to pay Herat a visit. In this, however, he was disappointed, for, although
he reached a village within a few miles only of the city, he was allowed to proceed
DO further. It was reserved to the Engineer officers of the Boundary Commission
twelve yean later to be the firat to enter Herat since the days of Pottinger. Mac-
Gregor was shown out of Afghan territory with more decision than politeness, but
he acquired a great deal of most important information ere he left, and we owe it to
him Uiat the question of the strategical value of the Herat valley and of Sarakhs
(which he afterwards visited) was discussed with something approaching to accurate
knowledge of the existing state of those positions. This is no place to discuss the
soundness or otherwise of his views. ; | The strong point about the man's character
was that he always determined to form his opinions at firat hand, to see for himself
and to speak plainly of what he saw, without much thought of delicate suscepti-
bilities ; and it follows that his opinions will always command the respect of those
who wish to learn the truth from the most authentic sources.
A yeai^s rest after this most adventurous journey was enough to prepare him for
yet another series of explorations in the uninviting deserts of Baluchistan. In
company with Captain Lock wood he started from Gwadur, on the Mekran coast, on
the 1st January, 1877, and the two together contrived, by occasionally following
divergent routes, to explore a most uninviting waste of mostly desert country
between the sea-coast and the Helmund. MacGregor followed the Pasni route vi& the
Kej valley to Panjgur, where he joined Lock wood, who had taken a more direct line
from Gwadur. They then made their way across the Baluchistan desert to Zirreh,
during which part of their journey they encountered terrible hardships from want
19G
OBlTUARy.
of water, ODly twice finding a drinkable supply during a fortTiight of their jo
They Bepa ratal again at Lai Khan Cbah, Lock wood returning to India hy the now
well-known route passinj; through Clmgeh, Xashki» aud Mastaug; and MacGregor
making his way through the Brahui country to Sohrab and the Mula Pass.
In 1878-79-80, Colonel MacGregor found coDgenial employment in AfghauiBtan.
He was «p[x>inteti Deputy-Qunrtermaster-General on the line of the Khaibar com-
munication during the firijt ]>ha9c of iho Afghan campaign, and took his share in the
operationii in the Bazar and Jellfllabad valleys. After the massacre of Cavaguari aud
his escort at Kabul, when Sir F. Roberta again took the field, MacGregor was with
liim, and shared in the succeRs of Charasia and the rapid advance on Kabul. There
was a day in December 1879 when his distinguished courage again brought him to
the front. There had l>een an action near Kila Kazi in the Chard eh plain to the west
of Kabul, the result of which had been to le^ve some British guns hard and fast, well
wedged into certain inconvenient irrigation channels, which barred their progress as
they were withdrawn towards Sherpur afier the action-waa over. It was MacGregor
who undertook to extricate them in face of the enemy, and h© accomplished his
pur|>Ofie with his usual resolution. Soon after this, Sherpur was besieged, and never
did MacGregor appear happier in all his life than during those ten uncertain days
whea we were awaitin;:; the beacon to be lit on the Asniai Hille, which was to be the
signal for the attack on JShcrpur, At such times as those a confident soldier like
MacGregor was indeed a lower of strength. When Sir F, Roberts made his march
from Kabul to Kandahar, MacGregor obtained command of the 3rtl Infantry brigade,
and assisted at the action of the 18th September, when Ayub Khau^a forces were
finally dispersed. Subsequently he commanded the Mari field force and conducted a
most successful little carapaij-n of his own against the Mariis. Fur his disttuguished
services as Chief of the Staff tt^ Sir F. Roberts and Sir D. Stewart he was made c.u,
in 1879 and kx.d. in 1881, having been nominated €.s.r. in 1874 and c.i.e. in 1878.
He was Quartermflster-Gcneral with the rank of Major-Geueral in the East Indies
from 1880 to 1885, when he was appointed to the command of the Punjab Frontier
Force. He was the author of several workH of a military character, besides his books
uu Khoras^an and Baluchistan, To the end of his life he never oeased to preach
the doctrine of " pre p.a ration,*' aud his notes of warning will not soon die away, By
hia death England bos lost one of her foremost soldiers, a leader whose aame was as
greatly respected as that of Sir Herbert Macpheraon, bis countryman, who passed
away so shortly before him* The loss of two auch men at such a time is indeed &
bitter blow for India,
ColoEel Sir J. V, Batemaa Champam, E.E.'— Colonel Sir John Underwood
Bateman Chamixiin, who died at Han Remo on the Ist February, vrm an ofHcer of the
Royal Engineers (Bengal), and son of Colonel Agnew Champain of the 9th (Norfolk)
Begiment. At the period of bis decease, he had been for some seventeen years
Birector-in-Chief of the Government Indo-Euroi>ean Telegraph. Born in London on
the 22nd July, 1835, he received his early education at Cheltenham School, where
he remained a pupil from 184G to 1849. Entering subsequently the Military
College at Addiscombe, he soon becjime one of its most distinguished cadets, and
eventually j^asaed out head of his term— a position he had held uninterruptedly from
the day of entrance. His commisaion dates from the llth June, 18o3* Within
four years after his arrival in India, the Mutiny broke out, and Chnmpain*s services
at that critical epoch are such as to warrant recapitulation.
Early on the 12th May, 1867, a sowar rode into Rurki bringing the news of the
* By Mftjoi-General Sir Frederic Goldsmid, k.c,b,i.
. OBITUARY. 197
oatbceak at Meerat. Captain Fraser, commanding the Sappers and Miners there,
that very day marched his regiment to the scene of disturbance ; and Lieutenant
Champain, then acting for Lieutenant Chesney as Assistant Principal of the
Thomaaon College, with his Principals approval, volunteered, and was permitted tu
accompany.
On the 16th May, at Meerut, a large proportion of these very Sappers mutinied,
and Captain Fraser was shot dead at his own encampment. Champain assisted in
carrying him to hospital, and the next day was appointed adjutant of the corps, vice
Lieutenant Mannsell, who assumed command. Most of the men present in the
lines when the mutiny took place ran off to Delhi ; but from working parties absent
at the time, and a few individuals who remained faithful in the midst of temptation,
a body of some 300 sepoys was formed, which nucleus was afterwards reinforced from
Uurki, The carbines of these men were taken from them ; but when ten days
ifterwards General Wilson determined to march on Delhi, the native sappers were
re-armed, and Lieutenant Champain testified that during his adjutancy their conduct
was most exemplary, nor was there one deserter among them throughout the
campaign.
lieutenant Champain was present at both actions on the Hindun river under
General Wilson, and at Badli-ke-Sarai and the capture of the heights before Delhi
under General Barnard. Regimental adjutant during the whole siege, he further
undertook the duties of field and assistant-field engineer, not having bad probably, for
three months, one whole night in bed. He was specially thanked in onlers by General
Barnard for rapidly constructing an urgently required battery, afterwards designated
*• Champain's,*' by written instructions of Colonel Baird Smith. Never absent for
one hour from duty through sickness or any other cause, he was employed either to
superintend or assist in the construction of, without exception, every single battery
thrown up during the whole siege. On the 13th September he was wounded, but
while on the sick-list, owing to the number of Engineer officers incapacitated, he
volunteered for duty, and was present at the capture of the Palace.
Lieutenant Maunsell's wounds having necessitated his departure to the hills.
Lieutenant Champain succeeded to the command of the Sappers, and was in that
position on the march to Agra and seven or eight minor expeditions in the vicinity,
including the capture of Fathpur Sikri. He further commanded a small force of
nearly 2000 men, including Sappers, 2l8t Panjab Infantry, two guns, and a detach-
ment of Hodson's Horse and 9th Lancers, on the march from Agra to Fathgarh,
where he joined the Commander-in-Chief in November or December 1857. He con-
tinued to command the Sappers, numbering some 500, on the march to Cawnpore
and the Alambagh, returning to his post of adjutant on the return of Lieutenant
Maunsell in March 1858. He was present at the final capture of Lucknow, twice
acting as Sir Robert Napier's orderly officer, with Lieutenant Elliot Brownlow, who
was killed when associated with him in this duty.
Major Champain was thanked specially in orders by Sir Robert Napier for
having, with Captain Medley and 100 sappers, held for a night the Shah Najif, an
advanced post of great strength, abandoned by eight companies of the 53rd on
account of its remoteness from the army. Assisting to prepare the plan of the siege
for submission to the Commander-in-Chief, he was ordered by Sir Colin Campbell,
after the capture of Lucknow, to erect fortified posts for outlying detachments of
police and regular infantry. Of these he completed about twenty. He was present
at fourteen or fifteen minor engagements under Colonel Walter and others, and was
thanked in a despatch by Captain MacMullin for services rendered in a rather severe
afiair near Balia. He was the only Engineer officer employed at the capture of
Jagdispur, where probably more than 10,000 troops were engaged under Sir John
198
OBITUARV.
Douglas ; and lie was partictilnrly recommendeil by that officer in his final despatch.
He joined in pursiiifc of the rebels to tbe Kaimiir bills, aiid when matters looked
more quiet, he was appointed Executive Engineer of Goiidab. Hence be was trans-
ferred to Lnclinow, of wbicb station be was Executive Enj^ioeer till ordered to
Persia with Major Patrick Stewart in 1862 on special duty connected with tbe
pro|J08ed telegraph to connect India with England/
The story of the ludo-Enropean Telegraph, diveHte<l of its ** blvie-bookislmess "
and official belongings, h full of interest and adventure, and in it are no two drumaih
personm more prominent tlmn Stewart and Champain. Of tbcir maoy brother-
ufiicers and friends, tliero aro doubtless some living who remember them when
ttissociatetl in the preliminary oi^anisation of tbta great enterprise : first in India,
taldng imtruclioDs in Calcutta and making inquiries at Karachi — then in Persia,
travelling upwartl fn>ni Busbahr through the wliole length of tbe country to certify
the status — then in London, at home, but not at rest. Here indeed, now moits than
twenty- three years aj^o, in a small room on theground-floor of a hovise in Lower Bclgravc
Street, tbe two young Engineers might have been found at a table covered with
papers, deep . in the consideration of eontracts and estimates, charts and charter-
parties, plans and 8^>ecifications, together witli the numerous and various questions
involved in the vast undertaking committed to Stewarts charge by the Indian
Government and Secretary of State for India. After some busy months in London,
Lieutenant Champain left England ngain fur Persia in September 18G3, tmvelling vii
the Danube and Tiflis, and reaching "J ehran on the 20tb October. Quitting the Shah*s
capital cm the 3rd NovembL*r, he was at Bushahr on tho 17th of tbe same month. At
this place he met Captain MuriJoch Smith and tbe non-commissioned oflicera of tbe
Itoyal Engineers, witli whom ho returned to Tehran* Those acquainted with the local
geography will admit the distances traversctl to be considerable, to say nothing of the
character of tlie country ; and it is to be taken into acenunt that Champain had
before, in tho previous year, performed the jonmey from Tehran to IjOiidon, by
Baghdad, Alepi^o, and Alexandrctta, \\'hile his assistant was engaged in con-
Btructing the coast-lines in Persia [and to tho Turco-Persian frontier, Stewart had
returned to ISombay and Karaclii, and embarked from the latter port to lay down
the line of submarine lelegiaph westward.
In January 18G5, when the cable connecting Karachi with the little station at
the head of the Persian Gulf had been for some months at work, and when the
Tm?oo-Persian link with the Euroi>eaa system was within an ace of completion —
Stewart, worn out with sickness and anxiety, died at Constantinople* Por the next
five years Champain remained the Inic and loyal colleague of the prest-nt writer,
ap tainted to succeed his tuiTuer chief; ;\nd it would be no easy matter to render
justice to the zeal and abiliiy which he displayed in seeking to remove the obstacles
which daily and hourly presented themselves to successful organisation of Indo-
Europt^in trafhc. Not only was it nocessar}' to set in working order the materials
given over to the hands of Biittsh officers, but also to remedy the gross defects
apijarent in the many sections of tho long overkud line outside their control. To
accomphsh botli these ends he stoutly and heartily laboured. He was an earnest
advocate for securing tlie co-operation of the late Sir William Siemens, a satbfactory
understanding with whose Comjxiny (the Indo-European) was brought about mainly
by the exercise of his good common-aenfle and judgment. In 1870 he himself became
the sole director of the whole Government section^ comprising tbe Persian Land, and
the PersiaaGnif Submarine Line; and to bis careful and energetic superintondenoe,
* The above outline of Sir John C bam pain's Indian services is obtained from tbe
preaent writer** own volume of ^Telegfaph and Travel* (Mscmillan, ISTi).
OBITUARV. 199
md tbe adminbie amngements of ** the Indo-European Company,^ may be attri-
Inted die marked snecess whidi theoombined OTeriaDd Telegra{^ to India has siuce
achieTed, and for idiich it has loi^ been diatingoished. Now that the inter-
oommTuucatioQ of East and West by electric wire is an amompiished ^i of old date,
and that the Orerland Line has been anpplemented by a Red Sea route, the widely-
uttered complaint at the lack of such adTantages— which naturally became a ^ bitter
cry " during the In<Uan Mutinke — is a comparatiTely forgotten incident, and the
labour which effiscted the desired object is regarded by the multitude as a mere
mechanical opention, or at best confounded with the deposition of an ordinary ocean
cable, and setting up posts and wires in the lands of civilised Europe. But the work
was really one of the highest importance and magnitude, and the names of John
Champaxn,^ Murdoch Smith, OliTer St John, William Henry Pierson^ and others, will
be honourably and lastingly connected with its recoid.
The dfgaeased officer's last important outdoor duty was the submersion of a new
guttapercha cable, more than 500 miles in length, from Jask to Bushahr — an opera-
tioQ wfaidi he personally superintended in 1885, proceeding to India on its completion,
and returning to England in 1886, to receiTe the well-deserved honour of knighthood
by admianoQ into the order of St Michael and St George. Sixteen years before, he
had performed a similar service in laying an indiarubber caUe between the same
two pcnnt^ and under signally difficult circumstances. The steamer bearing him
to India was wrecked in the Red Sea (the cable ship had already suffered from a
serious collision in the Channel) ; and wind and weather offered strong but, happily,
ineffectual opposition to the accomplishmoit of the work itself. There is no saying
to what extent the many vicissitudes he underwent *' by flood and field " contributed
to break; his originally fine constitution and physique, and to cause that fatal
asthmatic affection which painfully characterised his later days.
Cdcnel Pat^^an Champain has been enrolled among the Fellows of the Royal
Geographical Society since 1874, and was elected a member of its Council in 1883.
His paper on the '^ Various means of communication between Central Persia and the
Sea,^ read at the Evening Meeting of the 15th January, 1883, provoked an interesting
diacusabn, and is a valuable contribution to voL v. of the * Proceedings* (New Series).
later in the same year, another paper of his, on '* Trade Routes of Persia," was read
before the Society of Arts and published in its JoumaL In 1879 he filled the
Presidential Chair of the Society of Telegraph Engineers, and delivered the opening
address of ^the session. His official reports, as well as all his writings, are lucid and
well expressed, and had he been less chary of anything like display, he might have
become distinguished for literary power. Let it be added that he was an artist of
no mean capacity, as many of his well-executed sketches and paintings would
testify.
His many and long journeys, his interesting adventures, his diplomatic negotia-
tiooa in Europe and Asia, his experience of men and nationalities, would alone have
sufficed to make him socially popular ; but his genial disposition, his keen apprecia-
tion of right and wrong, his kindliness of heart and warmth of attachment, his sense
of himiour, but extreme oonsidemtion — these were Nature's qualities — qualities which
he possessed in an eminent degree, and which, wherever exercised, could not fail to
impart brightness and inspire affection. With a central figure such as this, it seems
hard, in a worldly sense, to associate the gloom of sickness and death. But the
picture has no uncommon features. Man's wishes are not the laws of Providence.
" Work well done " is a conclusion in arriving at which human testimony has a certain
value, and such has been readily and richly tendered in the present instance. How
* The name of ^ Bateman** was a prefix of recent years.
200
[CBITUARV.
geoeral haa bcfcn the consenaiis in this respect may be inferred from tbe fad that tlio
Shah of Persia, who had but two or three years ago left the path of stern Oriental
precedent to confer a sword of honour on C'hampain, has now further deviated from
that path by the despatch of a personal telegram of condolence to his fntniiy.
His remains were interred at San Kemo, in the English cemetery, on the hill-
side—a beautiful spot overhanging the Mediterranean shore, such as hU fine taste
would have once delighted to sketch on paper. Beloved in his domestic relations, and
estimated by others as just described, what more may now Im said regarding him
in a brief obituary notice? Beyond the threshold reached, all else la too sacred for
the pen of tlie writer.
A. W. Moore, C.B.* — Mr. Adolphns W. Moore, c.b., recently appointed
Politicftl and Secret Secretjiry at the India Office, died on Febmary 2nd, aged
forty-seven, at Monaco, where he had gone to recruit his health. Mr. Moore wa*
the son of Major John Arthur Moore, some time a Director of the East India
Company, He was brounrht up at Harrow, and went straight from school into the
India Office when about seventeen. In 1874, he joined the Political Department.
In 1875, he was appointed Assistant Secretary, and during the absence in India of
liis chief, Sir Owen Bnrne, from 1876 to 1878, acted as Political Secretary* Jn 1885
he retired from the office, but the Conservatives coming into fx>wer almost on the
same day, he was invited aimultaneonaly to become secretary to Lord Salisbury and to
Lord Randolph Chnrchilh Lord Randolph Churchill was then Secretary of State for
India, and Mr. Moore preferred the post which kept him in connection with his old
work. He remained that statesman's official or private secretary, in or out of
oiBce, until Lord Randolph's recent resignation of the Chancellorship of the
Exchequer, when Mr, Moore received the appointment which, so far as he had any
personal ambition except for opportunities of useful work, had no doubt been the
object of his life*
Mr. A, W. Moore had a vast store of departmental experience and information.
But these are ordinary official qualities ; and he was much more than an ordinary
official. He had a rare faculty of marshalling facts, recognising their relative im-
portance, and drawinj; from them statesmanlike conclusions. These conclusions he
expressed in t^rms of admirable lucidity. Hia mind had something of a judicial
quality, and his comj>asitionfi had on the reader rather the effect of an exhaustive
and impartial sumniiDg-up, than of an advocate's ar^mcnt in favour of the line of
policy they set out. His premature death may, without any exaggeration, be said
to be a loss to the nation, as well as to his office and the Indian Council » the members
of which folly appreciated his services.
But it is chiefly as a traveller that we have here to speak of Mr* Moore, and it
was as a traveller that I first made his acquaintanoe. In 1H67, 1 went to him with
my plans for a journey in the heart of the Caucasian chain, and easily persuaded
him to be one of ray companions. In tho following year we spent three months
together, making the first ascents of Kaxbek and Elbruz. In 1H74, Mr, Moore
returned to the Caucasus with three other members of the Alpine Club, In these
two journeys, both sides of 120 miles of the snowy chain were visited, the chain
itself crossed by many passes previously unknown to Englishmen, and, as a conse-
quence, intelligible dtscripiions of its i>eaks, passes, and glaciers laid for tho first
time before English readers. Mr, Mooro was an admirable travelling companion.
His energy was equal to his endurance. He developed tinder difficulties a quaint
By Mr. Dotiglas W. FrcslifieR
REPORT OF THE EVENING MEETINGS. 201
and inspiriting humour. He combined a boyish and playful egotism in small
things with a readiness for serious self-sacrifice when he thought it called for.
His official duties naturally stood in the way of his indulgence in distant travel.
But twenty years ago his name was familiar as one of the leaders of the Alpine Club
in the exploration of the part of Europe above the snow-level. He was one of the
first climbers of the Pointe des l^rins, the highest peak of the Dauphin^ Alps, of
Piz Roseg in the Ober Eogadin, of the Gabelhom near Zermatt. He had a share in
opening many of the now famous glacier passes of the High Alps, the Sesia Joch,
the Morning Pass, the Jungfran Joch, the Br^che de la Meije. He paid a great deal
of court to Mont Blanc He forced a new way up it by the Brenva Glacier, he
walked up it with only one guide, he walked over it from Courmayeur to Chamonix
within the twenty-four hours. There was frequently something original and
audacious about his Alpine feats. With his constant companion Mr. Horace Walker,
h« invented winter mountaineering, a recreation which has led to the discovery of
some curious and unlocked for meteorological facts. He would go off for Christmas
to the Dolomites or to Dauphin^. Of late years his favourite holiday was a fort-
night's walk over Alpine passes and through Italian valleys in October, a season he
rightly maintained to be far more beautiful than midsummer. He loved scenery
as much as climbing, and would descant with equal emphasis on the glories of Mont
Blanc or of Yal Onsernone, one of the exquisite glens that open on Lago Maggiore
near Locarno.
Mr. Moore never published any volume. Scattered papers by him, all remark-
able for clear and forcible description, may be found in the earlier volumes of the
'Alpine Journal.* For various reasons he left his Caucasian journeys to others
to describe.^ But his friends possess, and value highly, a privately printed volume,
'The Alps in 1864,' which contains a spirited and entertaining narrative of his
most successful and adventurous alpine campaign, carried out in company with
Messrs. Whymper and Walker. For three years he acted as Hon, Secretary of the
Alpine Club, and had only a few weeks ago declined its Presidency. One of the old
mottoes of that body was
** Jaoundnm vertice mentis
Yesci aur& ffithereA et dextram conjangero dextrsQ.*'
There are many who will miss, both in the mountains and at home, the hearty
grasp of the old friend and comrade who has so suddenly and so prematurely been
taken from us.
REPOET OF THE EVENING MEETINGS, SESSION 1886-7.
Fifth Meeting, January Slat, 1887. — General R. Strachey, r.e., f.r.s.,
Vice-President, in the Chair.
Elections. — Frederic Gorell Barnes, Esq, ; liev. Canon Walter Beck ; B,
BiekneU, Esq. ; Charles Ernest Clarke, Esq. ; Thomas Cecil Curwen, Esq, ; Lieut.
Arthur Moftyn Field, b.n. ; Walter Bernard Hamilton, Esq., b.a. ; John Hender-
son, Esq,; MaJor-OeneraZ H, Hyde,n,E,; George Harvey Johnston, Esq,; James
Wilson Johnston, Esq, ; Frank J, Leslie, Esq. ; Bev, Daniel Orenville Lewis ;
Pn^essor Ralph Waldo Emerson Mac Ivor ; Capt, Htnry St, Patrick Maxvjell,
(Beng. Staflf Corps) ; Charles Griffith Nuttall, Esq, ; Kelson Provoer, Esq,, m.a. ;
• See FresWIeld's « Central Caucasus,' 1869, and Grove's • Frosty Caucasus,* 1875,
PROt^EEDlNGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES.
Rev, WiUiam Jos. SmttA; CapL tht^ Uon. M. G. Talhot, r,e. ; Edwd, Wcdla^,
E^q,y M.D, ; Eohcrt Augustus Warren^ Estj. ; J, Beau^hamp Waimn^ Esq.
Peesen'tatioxs.— IFiY^mm Martin^ Esq. ; A, JI, Burtmif Esq, ; D, M» Hobertsan
Maedonaldf Esq.
The Emtk Pasha Belief Expedition.
At the comiT^encemcDt of tlie meetmg tlie Clmirman announced tliat ft letter bad
Iwen Teceivprl from Mr. W, JIackinnon, President of the Managing Committee of
the Emia Pfiiiba Helief Expedition, tlianking the Council uf the Society for the con-
tribution of 1000/. Ihey had made to the funds of the. Expedition, and saying how
greatly the Comraitteo appreciated the coiirteay and lil)orality of tlie Society in this
matter. He added that it was understood that all new geographical information
which miglit be obtained by Mr. Stanley during the progress of the expedition
towards Emin Pashas headquarters, and on the journey back, should be com-
municated to the Society immediately on receipt^ for publication V>y them.
The subject of the evening was an address by IL J, Mackinder, Esq.^ b.
(Oxford), on the Scope and Methods of Geography.
The address was illaatrated by diagrams and typical geographical views projected
on a Bcreen by means of the dioptric lentern and lime light. At its close the
nhairman announced that the discussion on the address was adjourned to the next
meeting, February 14th.
VidCf anU^ address and disciiBsion, p. 141.
I
SiXtJi Meetiuff^ Fehrimri/ 14ili, lf!87*— General E. Stkachey, r,e., f,
Yice-President, in the Chair.
Elections — Oeorge E. Aslcwith^ Esq,; WiUiam Alphetts Jliggs, Esq.; Ba^
Lindsay^ Esq, ; J, W. Lindt, Esq. ; James Pankhurst, Esq. ; Capt. W» C, Speed'^'
i'ng; Whitworth WalliStEsq.; Henry Milner Whiie^ E$q,^ m.a. j Frederick Wf
WHkotkSf Esq.f j,p. ; Samvd JViUiammmt Esq,
Pre,se>'tations.— T. C. Curwen, ET>q. ; RfP, Wm. J, Smtth,
The evening was occupied by the adjourned discussion on Mr. H. J, Mackinder's
adtlreM on " The Scope and Methods of Geography.** Antef p. 160.
PKOCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES.
4
GeograpMcal Society of Paris.— January 7th, 1887 ; M. A. Gebmafs in the
Chair.— The Minister of Public Instruction informed the Society that the Govern-
roent had decided to coatribnte the mm of 241. (GOO francs) towards defraying the
cost of the publication of the maps accompauyiDg M. Dutreuil de Rhina' work on
Thibet, The General Secretary alluded to the great geographical imi>ortance of
this work.*— JL R. du Caillaud forwarded a copy of the ' Missions Catholiques '
(12th Nov. 1886), containing an excellent map, by the late M, Lombard, of the
Foreign Missions, of the course of the Lower Mekong. — A communication from
M, Hangsen Blangsted was read, giving some notes from a paper reatl by M.
Feddersen before the Geographical Society of Copenhagen upon bis journey
to Iceland, — The Secretary read a letter from Whl, Capus and Bonvalot, dated
6th Sept, from Samarcand. — Dr. Vaume sent a report of his journey from Keshd to
PROCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOaETIES. 203
Hamadan.^-Tbo series of photographic views of the region of Lake Eelbiah (Tonis)
preseDted at a recent meeting, was the subject of a communication by Dr. Bouire,
whose explorations they illustrated. He gave some explanatory notes of interest on
this little known district. With reference to the exact locale of the ancient Lake
Triton, M. A. du Paty de Clam transmitted an extract from a work to be published
shortly, in which he opposes 9r. Rouire's theory. — M. K. AUain took occasion to
refer at some length to the journey accomplished some time ago by M. Foureau from
Uargla (Algerian Sahara) to the district of El Erg, by a route not previously
traversed by any European. The traveller reached a point situated in Sl° 10' N. lat.
and 3** 15' long. E. Everywhere along the route he came across vestiges of an ancient
civilisation and former human habitations. At intervals natural springs were dis-
covered and artificial wells. In the opinion of M. Foureau the route was well adapted
for a railway. — ^The Minister of Foreign Affairs had received from the French Consul
at Buenos Ayres, a letter announcing the despatch by the Argentine (Government of a
mission to explore the territory of Patagonia. — The Society received from M. Comejo
a memoir by Dr. J. F. Velarde, giving the substance of a paper read by him before the
Geographical Society of Kio Janeiro, on the hydrography of some of the least ktown
parts of Bolivia. — ^The Chairman announced that M. J. Martin, a French traveller
who has spent five years in traversing Eastern Siberia, was present at the meeting.
Having conducted some investigations for a largo Russian Mining Company,
M. Martin had proceeded to visit some of the unexplored portions of Siberia.
Skirting the south-west comer of Lake Baikal, he travelled northwards to the 60th
parallel ; then turning south, he descended the Amur and traversed Mongolia and
Manchuria. He crossed the Trans- Baikal region twice. The Chairman stated that
the topographical service of the Russian stafif were about to publish the traveller's
admirable itineraries. M. Martin, at the invitation of M. Germain, briefly addressed
the meeting and promised to give an account of his journey at an early meeting of
the Society. — In conclusion M. W. Ruber read a paper on the piercing of the
Siraplon, M. Huber was one of the committee of experts charged to report upon this
enterprise, and was able therefore to give very precise and interesting information.
ITie Committee had pronounced in favour of a tunnel with double lines, which, with
a length of about 11} miles, would take six years to bore, working at the rate of about
twelve feet a day. The advantages of the Simplou route, as compared with that of
the St Gothard and Mont Cenis, were then dwelt on by M. Ruber. A discussion
followed the paper, in which the Chairman and others took part.
January 21st, 1887 : M. Jannsen, of the Institute, in the Chair. — The
Chairman announced that the Bureau of the Central Commission bad been recon-
structed for the year 1887, as follows: — President, M. Janssen, of the Institute
(Academy of Sciences) ; Vice-Presidents, MM. Dr. Ramy and W. Huber ; General
Secretary, M. Maunoir ; Assistant-Secretary, M. J. Giraud. — M. G. Marcel called
attention to several ancient maps in the library of Arcachon, and suggested that the
Society should ask the Minister of Public Instruction to have a general inventory
prepared of all documents of this description in the possession of the various public
libraries of the kingdom. — ^The Secretary read a letter received by the Commercial
Geographical Society of Madrid from M. Julio C. Baviera, an ofiicer in the Spanish
navy, giving an account of his explorations in Western Sahara in connection with
the mission with which he was charged by that Society. Re started from Madrid
on 1st April, 1886, accompanied by Don Francisco Quiroga, professor of Natural
History, and Don Felipe Rizzo, as interpreter. In the course of his travels he
traversed the territories of Ed-Dajla, Guerguer, Aatf, Ar-Rak, An-Hanfrit, Tisnik,
the plateau of Tivis, Sriyik, Teninlek, lyil, and Ansert. He explored several hun-
dred miles of hitherto unknown country, a large portion of which he surveyed.
204
PROCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES.
Dr, Quiroga waa able to make valuable notes on the meteorology, geology > flora, ^'c*,
of the rpgion. The rigour of the climate, the hostility and fanaticism of the natives,
made travelling extremely hazardous. The expedition returned to Spain on
16th August.— The Minister for Foreign Affairs communicated a report from
H. ITaffray, French Consul at Zanzibar, on the explorations of Dr. Junker, Ac-
eording to this report, which does not enter into detafis, the most important diacovery
made by the traveller in his seven years' travels is in coEiiection with the Welle or
Makua, Br. Junker believes that the opinion hitherto generally accepted that the
Welle, under the name of the Aruwimi, ia a tributary of the Congo, is errtmeoui?.
After the bend which the Welle makes in Monbuttn-land in about 4** N* lat. antl
27*^ E, long., the river, Uifitead of deacending to the south to rejoin the Congo in
2PE. long, and 1*^ N, lat,, tuma ngain to the north. Tiie traveller encountered the
river between 5*^ and €° north and 20*^ and 22<* east, and conjectures that It runs
north into Lake Chad, |>ossibly under the name of the Shari. He is of opinion that
the Nepoko, lying much more souths which takes its rise among the mountains weat
of Albert Nyanza, is really an affluent of the Congo. Ihe Bokomandi in the south,
and the Uerro in the north, are tributaries of the Welle. The former riaes among
the same mountains as the Nepoko. The result of Dr, Junker*a discoveries and hypo-
theses would be to fix the limit of the Congo basin much more to the south. With
regard to the navigability of tlie Welle, the traveller states that in Monbuttn-land,
tbe river is navigable for a long distance, but in the vicinity of its confluence with
the Uerre he found some rapids^ and is led to the conclusion that there are others.
He devoted three yeara to tlio exploration of this region.— A letter was read from
M. Vofision, French Vice-Conaul at Philadelpiiia, giving an account of hi« ac-
quaintanceship with Emin Bey at Khartum in 1882, where the latter was staying
on a visit. M. Vossiou offered in his li^tter (dated 5th January, 1887) to lead
a relief party from the east coast, if Stanley did not take the initiative.^M,
Cluaffanjon, in a letter dated 20lh Oct., 1886, from San Fernando de Atabapc,
stated that he was or^nising his expedition for immediate departure t<> explore the
sources of the Orinoco. He had received great assistance from the Governor pro
/em., and also from M. MiralieL He had discovered some very curious funeral urns,
differing frtmi those found by Dr. Crevaux. He hoped to return to San Fernando
about the 1st January, 1887. — M. Gasassut, the inventor of an apparatus called the
** Cosmograpbe/' lor facilitating the teaching of cosmography, gave a deFcript^ion of
ids ingenious invention. —The growth of tiie i>opulation of France, as compared with
that of European countries, was the subject of a paper by Dr. A. Chirvin, The
first proper census was in 1801, when the population waa 27,349^003. The census
of May last ffhows 38,218,903 iuhabitiinta. The annual increase of population
shown by the chief countries of Europe was stated to be as follows i — ^Greece, 12
per 1000 inhabitants; Holland and Denmark, 10; England, 9; Germany and
Belgium, 8 ; Austria, Sweden, ]SJorway» Portugal, and I taly, 7 ; Spain, 3, and
France only 2 per 1000. The author also reviewed the various movements of the
population. In conclusion he stated that, although the mortality of France wa.s
one of the lowest in Euroi^, yet ita record of births was the lowest of all, notwilli-
atanding numerous marriages*
( 205 )
NEW QBOGKAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
(By J. SooTT BLeltie, Librarian R.G.S,)
EUROPE.
Bartholomew, John. — Gkizettegr of the British Isles, [Statistical and Topogm*
phical. Edinburgh, A. & C. Black, 1887 : imp. 8yo., pp. [yilL] and 912. Price
36s. [ProBented by Mr. Bartholomew.]
A leading feature of this well-printed gazetteer is the number of places
which it contains. It answers with brevity the questions " Where is it ? umI
** What of it ? " with regard to most places that have names in these islands,
and will therefore be useful as a handy reference-book ; those who require
further information must go to more detailed works. So far as we have tested
it the work is wonderftdly accurate, and as ftdl as it professes to be ; but it is
di£Scult, unless by revision on the spot, to obtain the latest trustworthy in-
formation. Thus the leading industry in Gainsborough, the manufiM^ture of
agricultural implements, is not mentioned, and the canals connecting it with
the Trent are now of very little importance. The newly-printed maps which
are appended, embody a variety of statistical information, though here, as else-
where when distinct tints of colour are used to indicate gradations of one
phenomenon, it is difficult to find a method that is not liable to mislead the
unwary.
Egli, [Dr.] J. J.— Die Schweiz. Leipzig, Freytag, 1886 : 8vo., pp. viiL and 210.
(Dulau.)
This is a useful and well-arranged summary of geographical and statistical
information on Switzerland, by ute well-known Swiss geographer, Professor
EglL It has a number of illustrations, but no map.
Kettle, W. £.— A few Notes on the Island of St. Michael, Azores. [1887.]
12mo., pp. 16, map and plan. [Presented by the Author.]
— • A Beport on the Artificial Harbour of Ponta Delgada, St Michael's, Azores
Islands, from Observations made during a visit to the same, November-December,
1886. London, B. H. Laurie, 1887 : 870., pp. 12, maps and plans. [Presented
by the Author.]
Feacoek, B. B.— Original Vocabularies of Five West Caucasian Languages. [From
the ' Journal of the Boyal Asiatic Society of Great Britain and Ireland,' voL xix..
Part 1.] [1887] : 8vo., pp. 18. [Presented by B. N. Gust, Esq.]
White, [Lieut-CoL] T. PiUdngton [E.E.]— The Ordnance Survey of the
United Kingdom. Edinburgh, Blackwood, 1886 : 8vo., pp. x. and 174. Price 5ff.
[Presented by the Publishers.]
Colonel White's object in this instructive little volume has been to convey
to the general reader an intelligible idea of the National Survey, without
entering more than is necessary into technical details. The book is intended
to be a short popular account of what might at first seem a dry scientific
subject Colonel White has succeeded in writing an account of a great under-
taking that any ordinary reader should find it easy to understand. Beginning
with the early attempts of General Watson and Boy in the middle of last
century in the Highlands of Scotland, Colonel White traces the progress of the
great work down to the present day, describing the various methods used, Uie
various improvements intioduced, the present position, and the future of the
Survey.
ASL^
Beqamin, S. 6. W- — Persia and the Persians. Londun, Murray, 1887: 8vo.,
pp. xvii. and 507. Price 24».
Mr. Benjamin was the first representative of the United States sent to
Persia, where he resided from 1883 to 1886. He had many opportunities of
No. m.— Maboh 1887.] q
20G
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
seeing court life, and the country around the capital and in the north of Persia. ]
IliB doscription of the roj^ion between the Caspian and Telieran is clear and
ilctallcd, and even more so his account of Tuhemn. So far as his own observa-
tions went, they are of oHgiual value. Mr. Benjamin has, moreover, taken the
troiiblo to bring together a good deal of tniBtworthy information alx)iit the
country generally. Ho hfis chapters on the physical aspects of Persia, nn its
races, on arts and religion, on its resources, products^ and trade, and on the
Ix)Utical Bitnation, The book is interestingly written and richly illustrated,
iind will he found useful to any one desirous of acquiring Bomo general iufonna- fl
tion on Persia, in short sjiace. There is no map in the book.
Smeaton, Donald Mackenzie. — The Loyal Karens of Bnmoa* London, Kcgan
Paul & Co., 1887: cr. Hvo., pp. 204. Price is. M. presented by tb©
PuhlishereJ
An interesting sketch of the Karona, embracing their Origin, Language,
Customs, Agricnlture, Folk-lore, &c. j compiled from the Author*s observations
during his bve years* residence in Burma, from 1879 to 1884.
Yat6, [Lieutenant] A* C- — England and Bussia Face to Face In Asia. Travels
with iho Afghan Boundary Commission, Edinburgh, Blackwood, 1887: 8vo.,
pj\ viii* and 481. Price 21s.
Lienteniuit Yate acted aa corresixindent to an English and an Indian paper
with the Afghan Boundary Commission of 1884-5. His ojmmunlcatjoiss,
with additions, he has reproduced in the present volume, lie has wisely allowed
these to remain cjiisentially aa they were originally written ; had they been recast,
Ibcy would almost certainly have lost the freshness and vividness which fonn
unc of their most attractive features. The book may be taken as a provimooal
and unoflicial narrative of the doinfjs of the Commission, and tlie events connected
therewith. Most of the route of the Commission in Afglmnistin^ na we know, was
tbrougli territories, ahnotit, if not altojzether unknown, and therefore Lieutenant
Yate*ii notefl of the country through which he passed arc of some value, such,
for example, as the considerable section describing the journey from the Helmund
to Herat Among the illustrations is a fme one of the ZulSkar Pass. The
rough sketch-map on the scale of 32 miles to an inch will prove useful.
AFRICA/
[Cape of Good Hope.]— Blue-Book for the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope.
1S85. Cape Town, W, A, Bichards & Sons, 188G : folio, pp. 516.
Feilden, Eliza WMgham-^My African Home; or, Bush Life in Xatal when a
Young Colony [1852-7], London, Samp«on Low & Co., 1887 : cr. 8vo., pp, 364,
illustrations. Price 7«. Gcf, [Presented by the Publishers.]
Consists of a series of letters, together with aelectiona from the author*s
journal, written thirty years ago during five years of active bush life in NataL
Playfair, [Sir] E. Lambert [K.C.M.G.].— Handbook for Travellers rn Algeria
and Tunis. Third edition, revised and greatly augmented. London, Murray,
1887 : 8vo., pp. viii, and 344, Price 10«,
It is eight years since the previous edition of Sir Lambert Playfair's well-
known handbook was published, and great changes have taken place since then
both in Algeria and Tunis. Both countries are much better known now than
then, Sir Lambert himself having done much for their eiploration. The sis^e of
the volume has been increased by some forty page^, and throughout important
changes and additions have been made, bringing the guide up to the latest date.
The map of Algeria has been much improved, and a map of Tunis and other
mB\m and plans added ; though we venture to think more might have b«eii
given with advantage. As the Consulates of Algeria and Tunis were among
the first establislied by England, Sir Lambert has added an interesting list of
the incumbents of these important posts from John Typton, 1580, down to tlio
present day
I
XEV G£0GE1PH1CAL PTBUCATIOXS. 207
AMERICA.
sidCctaciIHatoryc/ Aiaerxaw Edited bj Jxatin Wni^x.
Td. rr. FsBBca Fipimsft^n ssd SeciLoneats in yortii Amfriea, a&d tbcae </
& Pj.!»iiUMB, Daises, ssd Sv^des, 15<y>-170O. Loodxi, Sgsipaan Lenr 4r Ojw
IJEK: ins. s«q^ ^^ ix. acd ttt, acd 516u Price 3Qk.
Ix w€llait wem. ant ^s aev Ttifczxae of tois iapviaBS Ma/Stfotakis^ desk
vick UK ^ las isas lammaig penods of Xonk Aaenean rTjjantkjg, sad
«DB «fr v:sk JK isoK vcft^ of ciKaal CHBTi, Bs^ aoi iXlattBataoas a« a tbe
csK 4C me maeiiiMt w^ma>, Ccnaeml, TcRiiaai&, Gonez, a&d T^ewt se
jeskk v^ck t5 Mr. Gozzst D^ssb; widle sbe edasor iiddiS a kw MCboK €& Mi^a
if :ae Shmo. C^sK of X<zm As&Bia, ISOO-lSSSy T«j jE^^
jtTjr ingMmiL. Of came n-miiMapT»He tgmot bj oeroBBd tock to Jac^aei Cticr
;^Er. I^ B. F. Dft Gma^ aaid C^aBTX^BFf (Ser. EL F. Sa&egi), mxOka hag^
mritn m, Cgaagagcj, W sae eoioc; ccn^ i^yiW ^ Dr. iKa Cxsu s
rhaqoTL Acnos s seuEii as ssse iBDe:^ ^ Mr. C&aek» C ^"^^, sbd i^
miBi»gTt «f i3e GsBS LtfiEs if lam Ber. E.'D. Xcl^ T1« fGot isMsmil n
su caagaer iau^ vi^ Jioes, Mjp^jetae^ La SLjt, Txiitec T^^^^^ii^ ^gd La
^mTTT Oastsr TL s ieTimd i& lae •Jsssi, Beoujaeu; «sd i&e T'y^^^aaM^
15 It:. JL <S. 5onL JOit ;3e «&sr it» & »aiL seeaciL ol lae Jcbbs s£Eidei».
^ ■'^■Hj*^^ TEL Mr. Gsfx^ Sfagm^*^ oekiis ■ak FraEOeaae laii sai kaxei^ ^n**
;ae «czxxr va. Bsiucik^ jciua aa«i dan <f T2e I6ck s&d ITsk ^enssn^
a&L Yzk 3iflfK It lae 17a. ■^'^'-^''^ susM^Jiiz CMOtat, C&a^ccr VIIL, W Mr«
llnrainif F^suv. aas of :sus I>c3sn. oz. 3i^:cik ^TnwniP!*^ a^^ C^opcer rr £<r
Mi. J. £. ^flm, ^ ia«sr ZmHtaea -ol lae LtdsRvasK;. One 5aeasst ^J ^m TUimut
12 ae poBES ^ne 3 SL hDBFAaesaoL U lb fags l^r
. IL '93K3. ilS ffiiTVS IFISL HSOBL §k^ MUt 'rSMSm'JtiilS^ ISUt TTT^4J'Hn-y
F v^oEa. "UA gff ^!'jgiraaL dtacaesKTScaBS ^ ^e S»irsL Asienoa ^snof-
•jTOrTTg, i» nmntatrnty "^ ks his •CBLy it «rTi»"ftrr-Ei> jusbbsk ; tjtfj sxt -if tjtt
las CEBOK iat % s^uc
, ^aie nxI'T TrSywifc I TTwi^inio 'aat laa*^
(iSDiEH -^eoT |MC wfo^ mtses
. OBiQiaguL lit aor ioB «BBgr lac » \ac^9t
\ miosssme i^ isk: leveat sxcasaidiL 2kie»
^fliier tua. Hua m ik- aasmxu: Sir ^^ii» so-
*'€£ "VnciL cnBianrnn 'juem ma juaj 'njcuj' JZiC^
IhBtaeft osbbl it « if ^lac yfrmwiae ol itt K»-4«BnC
i» suns^ BiL -^ler Tinrnnr if :aer aad, m ^jr^ed. jsol
rr tw OBMenL, Ji m % mid. -wruxR
ly IsL 3im -vcBCx. "w'jiiap if -2e TBHKaifT 'aoc ss^^-mnrr j^toft^
1ML JL maea, m
laaB BIS iiflciSK^sair-
;.if Sicii. JauzrcL jl if uL 'SU: ^ Trangn»"'^ sumziecaLsaoc jexrnrniUL
jL^i&dxnisam n laii I3SK l^^tCAL^JBuaL ^ ':aiEL $!«!» m. m uoir^ oBaiL
juw^ -iie flsziis&sxx: if ^ia jbul if l^unnem^ uul m suuosuusc tt^psii^mcs]^
jBpit aosL TMBgfflj teaenmsas. 11;^ 3s ystgriHimisk acussaxR. 'vsj ^amdiii^
i^LOB&mix^ ^la^ iir &. ^vsj argf acaua. 11: Us qintnffnn iiiss^ m trzim^ uuje n.
iie inBR. okhc li JB >bii^ magL jl a «■& if iMm,iiiK» rf -ti^ ^gac ibssik
oc He^ loBE^ MiuiuuBL. £ ji gquBg "M: ae •*• J»gp »jgi^ijuay * aam iiegm.
NEW GEOCtEAPHlCAl PUBLICATIONS.
[BtieilO& Ayres,] — Ministcre do GouvQmemeQt* Bureau de Statistiquo g^aeralc.
Anuuaire Statistique de la Province do Buenos- Ayres. Vnh]i6 sous la directiua
du Docteur ]5mile R. Goni^ Directcur da Bureau de Statistique G^neralc.
Cinquieme Anc^e — 1885. Buenos- AyreSj 1880: large 8?o», pp. xlv. aud 4tiO,
inap«i, plate, plan. [Presented by Dr. EmiLio B. Com.]
Oanada-'-Goologiail and Natural History Survey of Canada. Alfred R. C. Selwyn,
LL.D,, i<'.B.s,, Director. Aunual Report (new Berica), vol* i., 1H85* Maps to
accompany report, in separate cover, Montreal, Dawson Brothers, 1880.
[Presented by the Director J
This volume deala witli the surveys of 1884 and 1885, chiefly in Britisih
Columbia and the North-wcat Territory, Ontario, Quebec, Hudson's Bay aud
Strait, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia. Besides the specially geological work,
the volume contains a good deal which will be found of value to the geographer.
We may specially mention Mr, G, M» Daw8Du*ij preliminary report on the
physical and geological featuretiof that portion of the Rocky iR»untains between
latitudes 49*^ and 50^ 30' j a paper on the CypreaB Hi Ik, Wootl ^fountain, and
adjacent country, by Mr. E. b, McConnell ; on the Lake of the Woods Region,
by Mr. A. C, Lawaon; on the Lake Mistaaaini Exi)edition, by Mr. A. P. Low;
on Hudson Strait and Bay, by Mr. R* Bt^U. The aroount of Lake iristaasini is
of special interest. TJiroughout the vohime are a number of illustrations,
photographs, and w^elL executed engravings, ^vbich are uf some geographical
value; and so also are the map, which combine topography with geology,
Steinen, Karl [von den].— Durch Central-Braailien. Expedition zur Erforschung
des Schingu im Jahre 1884, Lcipxig, Brockhnus, 1886 : imp, 8vo., pp. xii, and
372. Pric^ 22s. Gd. (Btdau.)
Herr von den Stein en'ts worlc may be t^iken as a typical example of what a
scientilic exploratiun of a great tract of comparatively unknown country ought
to 1)0. He, his cousin W, von den Steinen, and Dr. Clauss, were members uf the
German South Georgia expedition, on the return of which they remained beljind
at Monte Video for the purpose of carrying out an exploration of a section of the
South American interior. In various departments of science they were well
qualified for making the most of their oppttr tun i ties, and the volume containing
the record of their work is rich in results. Their main object was to explore the
course of the great river Xingu, w^hich flowing north thruugh 14 degrees of lati-
tude, joins the Amazon near the head of its delta. Starting from the La Plata
and proceeding northwards by the Parana to Cuyaba, much good work was
done before the source of the Xingu was reached. Several chapters are devoted
to Cuyaba and ita inhabitauta, and two chapters to the great province of Mat to
Grofiso, The ethnology of South America receives special attention, and the
volume contains a map showing the distribution of the various races. The
survey of the Xingu was carried out with great care, and the detailed large-scale
map, OS well as the narrative, abounds with new information. The chief results,
BO lar as the river is concerned, have already been described in the * Proceedings '
(voL viii*, 188G, p. G17). Several appendiceii, mainly ethnological, are addedj
and the work contains many atlraimblo illustrations. There are some useful
hints as to the kind of words which traveHers should aelect for which to obtain
native equivalents.
AUSTRALASIA.
Hager, OarL — Kaiser WilhelmS'Land und der BIsmarck-Archipel. Leipzig,
Gressner und Schramm [188C] : 8vo,, pp. 14 i. Price 3*. (Dulau.)
Herr Eager has brought together in this volume a summary of what we
know concerning the recently acquired possessions of Germany in the South
Seas, There are several illustrations, reproduced from books of travel, and a
sketch-map of the German coast of New Guinea.
Leudeufeld, B, von* — The Glacial Period in Australia. [Extracted from vol. x.,
Fart 1, of the * Proceedings of the Linneaa Society of New South Wales.*] 8vo.,
pp. 10, map and plates.
( 209 )
NEW MAPS.
(By J. CoLBS, Map Curator, r.g.s.)
EUBOPE.
Croatien nnd Slayonien*— Karte yon — >, entworfen uud Sr. Exccllcnz Uerrn
Crrefen Josef JellaSiS von BaSim, in tieikter Ehrfarcht gewidmet yom k.k. iDgenieur
AaUtenten dex Staatseisenbahn Michael Katzenschliigcr. Scale 1 : 504,CXX) or
6*9 geographical miles to an inch. Eigenthum und Yerlag yon Artaria & Ca,
Wicn, 1887. Price 5s. (Dtilau.)
Elbe* — Stiomkarte der • Scale 694*5 yards to an inch. L. Friedrichsen &
Co., Hamborg. 56 sheete in case. Price 21. 18s. (Dulau,)
This map consists of fifty-six sheets, each of which would contain an area
of forty square miles, but as in many of them a considerable portion is left
blank, the fact is only mentioned in order to convey some idea of the extent of
country shown on either bank of the river. In that portion of the map which
shows the course of the Elbe through the Crerman Empire, Uie distance from
the Austrian frontier to the sea is given in kilometres, the numeration increasing
with the river's downward course, and the opposite is the case in the Austrian
Empire where the kilometres are numbered up-stream as far as Prague, which
is the limit of the map. The heights are shown by contour lines, and cultivated
ground, means of communication, &c., by the symbols usually employed in
surveys drawn on a large scale. In addition to the principal map, a sheet,
on a reduced scale, is given, on which the whole area drained by the Elbe
and its affluents is laid down, together with statistical tables having reference
to the same subject
Oefterreiohsoh-Ungarischen Honarchie. — Specialkarte der . Scale
1 : 75,000, or 1 geographical mile to an inch. K.k. militSr-geografisches Institut,
Wien, 1886. Sheets: Zone 11, Col. XXII. Nagy-ROce und Rima-Bdnya;
12— XXrV. Gone und Csobad; 13— XXVII. Beregsz^z und Mezo-Tarpa;
14— XXVIL J^nk; 14— XXIL GySngyosund Bakba; 16— XXVI. Szalacs und
Er-Dioszeg; 18— XXVII. Bucsa und Rossia; 32— XV. Almissa und S. Pietro
della Brazza; 32— XVII. Kocerin und Mostar; 33— XVII. Ljubuski und
Metkovi6 ; 34— XIX. Bilek; 35— XIX. Trebinje und Risano. Price If. 4rf. each
sheet. (DtUau.)
OMterreich-Ungarischen Eisenbahnexi-— Die der Gegenwart und Zukunft.
Karte zur Reise, so wie zur Uebersicbt der befahrenen, im Bau befindlichen,
concessionirten und projectirtcn Eisenbahnen, nebst deren eigenthiimlichen
Benennungen« Emeute Ausgabe mit 3 Beikartken : Das nordbohmische Eisen*
bahnnetz.— Umgebung Wiens.-^Die Orient- Anschltisse, Artaria & Co., Wien,
1887. Price 2*. • (Dulau.)
Oefterreich-Ungarn. — Eisenbahn- und Poet- Communications-Earte von ,
enthaltend fertige und in Bau befindliche Eisenbahnen mit alien Stationen, die
Postrouten filr Personen-Beforderung und Dampfschiff-Stationen. Mit den
Distanzen in Tarif-Kilometem. Scale 1 : 1,700,000 or 23*2 geographical miles to
an inch. Beikarten : Umgebungen von Wien und Budapest sowie das nOrdliche
Bohmen. Artaria & Co., Wien, 1887. Price 2«. 6d. (Dulau.)
Horway.— Generalkart over det sydlige Norge i 18 Blade. Scale 1 : 400,000 or 5* 5
geographical miles to an inch. Sheet VII. Udgivet af den geografiske Opmaaling.
Kristiania, 1885. Topografisk kart over kongeriget Norge. Scale 1 : 100,000 or
1 ' 3 geographical miles to an inch. Udgivet af Norges geografiske Opmaaling, 188G.
Sheets: 9o, Skien; 15a, Eidsberg ; 20o, Eidsvold ; 26o, Aamot; 42c, Troldhetta ;
43g, Holtaalen ; 42d, Rennebu ; 43d, Stuesjd ; 49a, Orlandet ; 50d, Snaasen ;
53b, Overhalden; 5dD, Hoilandet; 54a, SanddOla.— Den Geologiske UndersCgelse.
210
NEW MAPS.
Scale 1:100,000 or 1*3 geographical mile to an inch. Udgivet af Korgca
goografiake Opmaaling. 81ieeU: 1 5c, Fct; 20a, Nannestad— Kristlania Omegn
(iti 6 sheets). Scale 1 : 25,000 or 2 ■ 9 inches to a geographical mile. Sheets ;
II. and V* Udgivet af Norges geografiske Opmaaling^ 1885, — Romsdals Amt, IV.
Scale i : 200,000 or 2 ■ 7 goographic.al miles to aa inch. (Dulau,)
OBDNANOE 8UKVEY MAPS.
Publlcfttioni iBsnod during Ute moDtb of Januaiy 188T.
I -inch— General M4|mi :—
ExaLAxi> ATtj) Wales : Shc«t 241. New Series^ U.
6-liioh— Ocnmty M^pi:*-
EjfaLAKD AJCB Wales : Bodfordflhire : 23 N.W.» 35 N.W., S.VV,, S.M, 2« N.E., 2a X.E.. 29 N.W^
N.E., S.W., aK.; u. each. Brecknockshire : 'i« n;k, S.W.. S.E., 29 N.W., N.E.. H.W..S.E.,
35 N.E.,S.W., 36 i^W., in S.W,, 40 N.W. • l<. Mjkcii, Cambridg-eshiro : lo N.fcl, ii N.IU, a.E„
12 S.W^ S.K., IB N.E,. S.K, lli KiL.S.fc;., 21 N.W.. S.W, S.ll. 55 8. E.; U. t^ath. Cardlff&ll-
ahLre: U S.E„ 12 S,E.. le NE,. S,E. i l*, «u:ti. Carmarthenshir© : n S.W., 4^ N.W.;
1*. each. DevonoMre r 19 Nil: is. e^icb, DoTsetaliire : 5 S.W., u N.E. ; i#, eiich,
Glouceatershix* ; ^s N.W., 67 S.W. ; l*. eack. Herefordskire ; i^s s,W. ; i*. cacb,
l-inQoLii^hijre : 13 SAW u N.W„ 7y aE.; i*. each. Monmouthshire : -^h, 3*. €d.; 31. 2*»
Montg-omeryshlT©; 2Q N^E., S.W., S.E., 27 N.W., ao S.E.,; ir. each. Norfolk; 67 S.E.,
79N.I'l; ijr.caeh. Someraetflhlre : 60 N.W,.a3S.W.; i*.e*Lh, Stalfordahir© : 7i N.W.;
U. Suffolk; S4 S.W,; u. Warwickshire: i& N,W., S.W.. n S.E., £0 N.E,, 23 S.W^
^5 N.W. ; li. each. Worcesterahire ; i N.W. ; ir
25-illoh— Parkh Idipa :—
EsGLAJfD AND Walk*; Brecknockshire^ XXV, n. is, 3*. ciich. Cajnbridffeshire : XXVI.
13, 3j J LIV, 1, 4J.; LIV. % S*.; LIV. 5» 7. Sjr.eadi; LIV. H. &*. ; LIV. 15* 16, LVIU. 1. 7, LIX.
I, i, fi, 7, 8, LX. 1, 2; 8» 3*. each. Carmarthemhir© : XXVIL 12, 13, h, is, XXXIIL 11, t%
3«. rach; XXXllJ, J5. 4j».; XUL 2, 4. 3i, rflcb. Devonshire: XVli. 5. IVIII. 13, XLl. t, h.
n, la. Lll. 3,4, 7, R» 13. CVlI. 9. 10, 12, 14, CVIII. 1. 2. 5, U. 11, Ifl. €XXVi. 9, W, t^^CXXXI. l&,
CXXXll. 1,2,3.6. 3*. ca.h; CXXXIf. €. 4j.; CXXXll, a, CXXXUL 1. 2, 3. 4. 5, fi, 7, 3*. each.;
CXXXlfL 11, 41,; CXXXITL 15. CXXXVJI. h 3*.; CXXXVll. B, 4*. Area Bouk«: Aihbury,
BeAWortlijr, l#, each; Black Torrlnptou, It. iki.; Bratlon ClDTflly, 2f. ; Brcator. If* Gd,\ Broadwood
Wldfer/i^r Od.^ Ctawtou, 1*, 6ii. ; ilermuiBwcck, U.; HahviO, it.; lame it ou, 1*. Gd.^ MaO'tavy.
It.; MiltoD Abbot, If. fkt.; Norllileir, 2jt. ; SamtifMrd HpEn^'y, U. ; Sydeokam lianicrel. If.:
Tavirtodt, 2j. ad. ; Tet<»it, Thumhurv, 1 ». each \ Wbltchurcb* li. gJ. Gloucestershire : XXVI. 2,
0, LXXVllI. 5, 9, 3*. each. Area Book : Lower Slaugbttr, 1*. Herefordshire : VIL 13, X.
15. XUL 2, XIV. H. XVIJ. 3, 4. 15. X Vlil. I, XIX. Ii. XX. 11, 3t. each ; XXI. 6, 4j. Himtinff-
donshir©: XX. b, 4j. Lancashire: XLVU. 3, 4s. Leicestershire: XXIX. 11, 3«.;
XXX Vt. I*. 4*,; XLIV. 16, 3*, Area iVok ; Markfield, It, Lincolnshire: V. 3, fi, 7, d. la, X.
3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 3#. each; X. 10, 4f,| X. H, l.'i, XVL f, XXVII. I, J, Ts 6, y, Hi, 13, 14, LI. 14, LIL 4,
LXl. s, LXil. 3, 5, 6, 3*. (?«ch. Montgomeryshire : VI iL h. 12, XXII. 10, 4 jr. each 1 XXllI.
16. 3*.; XXJll, 16,41- XXVil. 16, 3i. ; XXVHI. 9, 13, XXX. 1, XXXJV. 4, 8. 13, 15. IXXV. 6, 9,
W, 13. 14, XLL 2, 4. e, 7. 8. 10. 11, 14, XLVIL 1, 2, 3, 7. 9, 10, 11, 12, IS, LI. 3, 4, 7, ». 11. 3*. each.
Norfolk ; VL », 13, XV. h, XVL 1. 2. 3, 3j. ea*:lii XVL 3, 4j. ; XVL 6. 6, 7, «, 9, 10, 11. 3*. ench ;
XVL 12, 41; XVL H. 16, 16. XVIL 1, 7, 0,10, 14, 3s, each; XVIL IS, 4i.; XIX. 10, XX.
1, 6> ». 3*. «ach; XX. le, LXXVII. S. 6^ 13» 4t. each; LXXVIL 1ft, 3*,; LXXXVIIL 1, 4,
6, 7, 3#. ench; LXXXIX. 2, 5, fl, 4i. Mch; C.t, '_', «*. 6<L Area Book: North Eltnham. If.
Korthamptonshir© : VIIL 9, 14, 31. each; XL 7.4i. ; XXVIL 10, 12, XXXiX. 10, 12, 15. I6,
3*. ra4:h; XLIV. H, 12, 4*. each; XLVtIL 12, 3t. Nottinfi-hamshir© : I. 13 and 14 on one
iihc*t, 3*.; IX. 15, fif.; IX. 16, 6*. 6d. Butland : XV. 7,4*. Somersetshire: XX. 4. a*.;
XXXIX. 9, 3*. J XXXJX. 14, LL 1, 2. 13. LXIV. 5, 4t. e»ch ; LXIV. a, 31.; LXIV. 9, JO, 4f. each:
LXIV, 11, 12, 13, 16, 18. 3», oftdi : LXV^ ^,4*.; LXV,6, 18, 61. eacb ; LXVL 1, 3*. Arm Booka:
BalhforiJ, Stowey, 1*. each. Staffordshire: LXUL 2, et. fki.i LXUL 5, a*,; LXIIL », 8*.;
LXllL 13, llj. M. i LXllL 14, 4*. Suffolk: XXIV. 2. e#. C<i ; LVL 3, LXIIL 16, LXXIV^ 7,
LXXXL 11, 3f, each; LXXXVIL 3, 4j, Arva Book^: AketLham, Alnheton, Bmndbb, Chedburgb,
Cla.vclou^ luutoo. It. eucb; FramBDi;hani, Fre^alDgfield, It. 6ii. eacL; Great Ui&kenUaiu. (ireat
FlDborijugh, Hargrave, llawkedati, LnwshaLI, Lt tht ringlmrn. Little Blakenhatn, Oiifid*'n, Southwell
Park, PakBfl*ld, Wlnstoii, It. e*ch. Warwickahii'e : XXX. 8, Bt.; XXXI.K, 10, XLIU, ?, 4, 6,
*t. 1>, 3t. eaclii XLIV. 3, 4i.; XLIV. s,XLV. L 9. ^t». 13.14, XLVL 7, Vi, 14. l&, LI. 3, 4, 7, B, 10, 11,
15, 16, lAL 4, 5, », 13, LIV. 2, 3. 7. ift, 3t. «acb. WOtshire : XXV. B, 9, XXVIL 2, XX VIIL 4,
3t. each; XXIX. 0, St, i XXDL 10, XXXIE. 2, 3, fl, 7, 8, 11, 12, 15, 3ji. each ; XXXJL 16.XXXL11. 15,
4f. each; XXXVL 1, 13, XXXIX. 1,3,6,0, XL. 11, XLL 3, G, 9, H, 13, 14, ID. XLll. 1, 5, 9. 13, 3*.
each. WoroestertBhir© : XXIIL a. ar. Area Hooks; Aldlngt-m, Breedon, Crowle. Crutck,
I>jdd»rhlll, Kld«r»fleld. Graflan FljfoTd, Ha^lwr. lllnibli'tou, HiKldlngton. Little Witley, U. each ;
Miirtley, It. ed. ; Oddlngley, BMniarlcy d'Abltot, SL Andrew, aiid limdii ruted to ibe imrUkbcB of
t?t. Peter and St, Andrew, St, i'etcr, eind kndi raled lu the i>arbhe'ii of Sl Leier und St. Andrew, S«I-
warpe. Sbsljrlejr Beaucliamp, Siirawley, Tlbberton, U. each. Yorkshir© : '-LX.X.XIL 11, 3t.
Town Plams— lO-fectEcale.'-
KKCLAMi AN© Wales : Aljeirstwith. VL 13. 2, 7 ; 2f. each. Bradford-on-ATon. XXXIL 14* fi. 9,
10, 15, 1?, 20, 2X 24, 25; XXXVIII. 2, 4 ; 2t.e«ich. C«;wk<-me, LXXXVIll. 16. 15. 20 ; LXXXJX.
13, 1. 7, 11. 16, 17,18.22; XOIL 4.5; XCtlLl. 1 ; 2t.eacb. Oramhara, 0X111.18,3. h, 13. IS, l%
23, 24 ; CXXIL 4, 4.9; 2l. each. 8tratf<»I\l-uT5-Avon. XLIV. 6. 2, 3, 4, 7. 9, 12. 13, 14. IS, IS, 20. 23;
2t. each. IVo w bridge, X XXV I IL 7, 4 ; 21; Y tov 1 1 . L X X X 1 i L 14, 1 1 , 1 B, 2 1 ; X C . 1, 4, tt ; 2#. cdch.
CStat^ordt Agent)
AFEIOA,
A&ica Meridional Portngneza— Carta da . Scale 1; 6,000,000 or 82"!
geographical miles to an inch. CommisaSo de Cartograpliia, 188C. Coordenada
'poT A. A. d'Oliveira, Gravado e impresao por Erhard, Paris. (Z)«/a«.)
NEW MAPS. 211
Algeric— Carte Topographique de V . Scale 1 : 50,000 or 1 '4 inches to a geo-
graphical mile. D4pOt de la Guerre, Paris. Sheets :— No. 8, Dellys ; 9, Azef-
foon; 15, Djebel Filfila; 17, Bdne; 18, Oued Guergour; 22, M^ncrville ; 65,
Ben Haroun; 79, Sidi el Baroudi; 85, Vesoul Beniane; 86, Mede'a; 88, Aine
Bessem; 102, A!ne Bou Dinar; 127, Arzeu ; 128, Mostaganem : 155, Dehrousse-
ville; 179,RioSalado; 181,Arbal. (Dulau.)
Cabinda, Holembo, e Hassabi — Carta dos Territorios do . Scale
1 : 750,000 or 10*3 geographical miles to an inch. Commissao de Cartographia,
1886. Coordenada por A. A. d'Oliveira. Gravado e impress© por Erhard, Paris.
(Dulau.)
Onin^e. — Carte de la delimitation Franco-Portugaise en , par E. Desbuissons,
1886. Scale 1:940,000 or 12*8 geographical miles to an inch. Gravd et
imprimd par Erhard, Paris. (Dulau,)
Kabylie. — Carte de la Grande (Algdrie) et d'une partie de la Medjana.
D*apr^ les reconnaissances des Officiers d'£tat-major et autres documents.
Pabli^o par le Ddpot de la Guerre, Paris, 1855. Tirage de D^cmbre 1886.
Scale 1 : 200,000 or 2*7 geographical miles to an inch. Price 2«. Gd, (Didau,)
Principe.— Carta da Ilha do . 1886. Scale 1 : 100,000 or 1*3 geographical
mile to an inch. Commissao de Cartographia. Coordenada por Ernesto de
Vasconcellos. (Dulau,)
S. ThiagO.— Ilba de . Piano hydrographico do Porto da Praia, Archipelago
de Cabo Verde. Scale 1 : 8000 or 9 inches to a geographical mile. Commissao de
Cartographia. (Dulau,)
Siidafrika.— Die Portugiesische Exiiedition quer durch , 1884 und 1885*
Nach den Originalkarten von Capello und Ivens im Massstab 1:1,000,000
reduziert auf Justus Perthes' Spezialkarte von Afrika. Scale 1 ; 4,000,000 or
55*5 geographical miles to an inch. Petermann's * Greographische Mitteilungen,'
Jahrgang 1887, Taf. 3. Justus Perthes, Gotha. (Dulau.)
West Central Africa-— Boute von Paul Staudinger und Ernst Hartert von Loko
am BenuS nach Kano, Sokoto, und Gandu. August 1886-April 1886. Nach
den Tagebiichem der Relsenden, construirt und gezeichnet von Wilhelm Erman.
Scale 1:1,000,000 or 13*6 geographical miles to an inch. Mittheilungen der
Afnkanischen Gesellschaft in Deutschland, Bd. v. Taf. 4.
Zontpansberg (Transvaal).— Curte des Districts du ,et de Lorenzo Marquez
(Possessions Portugaises) dress^ par Henri Berthoud, Missionnaire, d'apr^ ses
voyages en 1881, 1883, et 1885. Scale 1 : 925,000 or 12*6 geographical miles to
an inch. F. Noverraz et Fils, Geneve. (Dulau.)
AMEBIGA.
HissiiSippi Eiver.— Map illustrative of Captain Willard Glazier's Voyage of
Exploration to the Source of the — . Drawn from delineations by his Indian
guide (Jhe-No-Wa-Ge-Sic. Approximate scale 1:265,000 or 3*5 geographical
miles to an inch. Band, McNally & Co., Chicago. (Dulau,)
In a note which is inserted on this map beneath Lake Glazier it is stated to
be the source of the Mississippi river, and that it was reached July 22nd, 1884.
It would, however, appear that this lake was first visited and surveyed by
Lieut. Allen in 1832, and afterwards by Mr. Featherstonehaugh in 1835, who
describes it in his book * A Canoe Voyage on the Minnay Soter.' In the other
portions of the map there is little worthy of special notice, and for farther
particulars with regard to Captain Glazier's claim to be the discoverer of the
sources of the Mississippi river, see B.G.S. ' Proceedings ' for January, pp. 58
and 69, where a note on Mr. Harrower's pamphlet will he found ; and also in the
February number, p. 119, where Captain Glazier's claim is briefly discussed.
212
KEW JIAPS,
ATLASES. '^^H
Alidree, Richard, — Supplement zurcraien Auflage von RichArd Andrees HaadaH|^|
enthaltead die 33 Seiten ueucr Eartea der zwciten Auflage von 1886* Apart liir
die Bcfiitzcr der crsten Auflage, Heraiisgegcbeti von dcr Geogiaphischen Anstalt
VOB Velhagen & Klasing in Leipzig. Lief, 1 ife L\ Price 2*. each, (Dutau,)
In conseqiienco of discoveries and Burveys that have hc^n mado bIocc the
original issue of this atlas, eome of the maps which it contained required
correction, and it was also desirable that others which had appearecl in the
original iBsiie should be given on larger scales, Willi these objects in view,
the author i« now issuing a eupplement in three parts> which will contain
33 sheets of maps. On a previous occasion, attention has been called to this
excellent atlas, which, for the price at which it is sold, is equal to any published.
These two jmTt& contain the following maps : — Lief. 1 : Beite 3, Ireland; 4 u. 5,
England und Wales ; 6, Schottlaud ; 7, Das shdlicho Skandinavien ; 8, Nord-
westliches Frankreich ; 9, Nordustliches Frankreich ; 10, Siidweatliches Frank-
i-eich ; 23. Die Antillen ; 24 n, 25, Kordwestlichefi Afrika ; 2% Westafrikanische
Kolonial-karten,— Lief. 2 r Beite 11, Siidoatliches Frankreich; 12, Franzosisch
-italienische Alpen ; 13, tlbersichrskarteder Alpen ; 14, Sizilien und Sardinien ;
15, Griechealand ; 16, WestniBaland ; 17, Kaukasualiinder ; 18, Japan ; 27.^
Algerien und Tunis ; 28 u. 29, Nord< Jstliches Afrika ; 30, Agypten. ^|
Berghaua* Physikaliaclier Atlae (begriindet 1836 von Heinrich Berghans),
75 Kartcn in Ziehen Ahtcilungen, enthaltend mehrerc Huudcrt Daratelliingcn
ilber tleologie, llydrographie, Meteorologie, Erdmagnetiamus, PBanzenverbreitung,
Tierverbreitiing und Volkerknnde, Vollstiindig ncu bearbeitet nnd unte(E^
Mitwirkung von Dr, Oscar Dnide, Dn Georg Gerlaud, Dr. Julius Hann, Dr. Q^H
Hartlaub, Dr. W. Marshall, Dr. Geoi^ Neumayer, und Dr. Karl v. Zittel, heraus-
gegeben von Professor Dr. Hermann Berghatifl, Siebente Lieferuog* Inhalt: Nr. 31,
Isothermen von Xord-Amerika. Nr. 48, Florenkarte von Aden. Nr- 5G, Vor-
breitung der Keptilien. Gotha, Justus Perthes, 1886. Price 3». each part,
(Didau.) H
This is the seventh issue of this atlas, and contains sheets No. 31, 48, and!^
56. Sheet 31 exhibits isothermal lines on the Continent of North America for
the months of January and July, and the mean temperature of the year.
Another map shows the isotherms of the eastern portion of the United St^tteu
for Januarj\ Sheet 48 is a map illustratin.^ the distributiou of flowering plants
in Asia and Europe. The region embraced is so lar^e, and the cons<?i]uent ^ys*
tern of colouring is so elaborate^ that there is some little difRcnlty in distinguish*
ing the meaning of tho different shades employed, as, for iniitance, the colour
u»ed to diatingulsh the region of tho Dryobalauopfi from that of the Diptero-
carjjua is so nearly the same aa that employed in the latter case that it wonld
ixi extremely diflicult to decide as to which it was intended to represent.
Sheet 56 exhibits the distribution of reptiles. This is done by mcAns of six
small maps of the world, the different regions where each class is found being
enclosed in a band of colour. These sheets are beautiful specimens of carto*
graphy, the registering of the colours employed being perfects
BrltlBll Empire,-"Atlasofthe throughout the World, by John Bartholomew,
}r.B.G.s., with Explanatory and Statistical Notes, Enlarged Jubilee Editiotu
London, G. Philip & Son, 1887. Price 3i. Bd.
This little atlas contains twenty-nine sheets of maps which have been
specially prepared to illustrate the various colonies and dependencies of the
British Empire, The first map gives, with tho aid of colour, a general view of
the distribution of the British i)osse8Hions. Care appears to have been taken Uj
US© the best materials in the work of compilation, and the result, as a whole,
3s satisfactory. Under the title of " Notes to Maps " some very useful explana-
tory and statistical information is given.
PROCEEDINGS
OP '
ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
AND MONTHLY RECORD OF GEOGRAPHY.
Prejevahhys Journeys and Discoveries in Central Asia.^
By E. Delhab Moboak.
CBead at the Evening Meeting, Febmaiy 28th. 1887.)
' Map, p. 268.
Before calling your attention this evening to the travels of Prejevalsky,
let me give a few personal reminiscences which may help to bring his
individuality before you.
I first met him at an evening meeting of the Imperial Geographical
Society at St. Petersburg, when, with a flow of language and eloquence
very striking, he gave an account of his first expedition into Central
Asia, whence he had just returned. Calling at his lodging a few days
afterwards I found him busily, engaged in unpacking his collections
which were in an admirable state of preservation, notwithstanding the
many thousand miles they had come and the variety of climates to
which they had been exposed. Among his chief prizes he showed me
skins of the Ovis Poli and other rare animals shot by him in Northern
Tibet Ever since then our acquaintance has been renewed as oppor-
tunity offered between his long absences from Europe, and from time to
time he has sent me particulars of his discoveries which I have com-
municated to this Society. As to his personal history, I may mention
that his earlier years were passed in inuring himself to all kinds of
physical privations and hardships to prepare for the career of an explorer,
and soon after entering the military service, he asked for and obtained
an appointment in Eastern Siberia, where he could indulge his passion
for sport and adventure. In the dense virgin forests on the TJssuri,
that remote part of the Bussian empire acquired in 1860, he passed
two summers, continually moving from place to place, and when not
occupied with his of&cial duties taking meteorological observations,
collecting and drying plants, shooting and stuffing birds, keeping a
diary, &c.
In 1871-73 he made his first great expedition in Mongolia and
* Compiled from the Bossian originals.
No. rV.— April 1887.] b
314
PREJEVALSKY'S JOURKEY^S AND DISCOVERIES
Tibet, After crosBing the Gobi Desert between Kiaclita and Kalgatx lie
turned westward and followed nearly in the footsteps of Abbe Hue to
the province of Eaneu in Western China, visiting Lake Kokonor, a
magnificent water- spread 10,800 feet above the sea. He then entered
Tsaidam,* a saline marshy tract Bome 500 milGs long from east to west,
which in his opinion has recently been covered by the sea. Hence he
passed into Northern Tibet» but owing to the want of resources ho was
unaMo to prosecute his journoy to Lliiisa, and was obliged to turn back
when but 27 days' march or about 500 miles from that city. Among
the results of this expedition^ besides rich collections of the flora and
fauna of the countries visited and a detailed route survey, was the
discovery of a moist mountainous region in Kansu, to the north of the
upper Hoang-ho and east of Lake Koko-nor, well wooded and abundantly
supplied with rainfall though isolated by arid tracts. On his return
journey ho crossed the Gobi in its widest part between Din-yuan*ing
and Urga, in the height of summer, by a route never before attempted
by European travellers.
In 1870 Prejovalsky advanced from Kulja, then held by Hussia^
crossed the Thian Shan and turning southwards from the oasis of
Eara-shahr^ struck the Tarim and followed this river down to its out-
flow in Lake Lob, the first European to visit this lake in modem times*
His description of it, difijaring widely from the accounts given by old
travellers and by Chinese writers, took geograpbcra by surprise, par-
ticularly as regards the Bweetneea of its waters at its western end where
the discharge of the Tarim takes place. But his most important dis-
covery was that a high range of mountains, the Alt^^n-tagh, rises almost
jjrecipitously from its southern shore to the limit of perpetual enow,
and apparently buttresses the northern Tibetan plateau. We can now
understand, says Baron nichthofen, why the old silk traders passed so
close to the south of Lob*nor, and encounter 'd the terrors of the desert
between it and Sha-chau rather than attempt a passage over huge
mountains where the diMculties of transport were so great. We shall
see, however, when we come to Prejevalsky*8 fourth and last journey that
the trade route did in all probability cross those mountains hy an easy
pass from Cherchen, while an alternative route to China lay through
Lob-nor and Sha-chau.
By these two journeys Prejevalsky had acquired a reputation as a
traveller and observer, and whon he started on his third expedition he
was well supplied with funds and \i4th every requisite- In 1879 be
undertook what he himself prefers styling his third " scientific recon-
naissance" into the heart of Asia, Fort Zaisan, now a town in th©
government of 8emii)alatin8k, was his point uf departure. Here he
obtained the supplies necessary, aud transport animals for his party
numbering thirteen all told, ten being Cossacks^ picked meuj and well
♦ 10,000 feet above sea-leveU
I
I
15 CENTRAL ASIA.
^
practised in the use of firearmB, upon which Prejevalsky's experience
had taught him to place his chief reliance in dealing with the natives
of Central Asia.
Their route at first led them by Lake Uliunghm*, visited in 1253
by the Franciscan monk Euhmqnis, who was sent on a mission by
Louis IX. of France to the Jloiigol Khan at Karukomra. The lake has
a circumference of 87 miles, an elevation above the sea of about 1600
feet, and receives on the east the discharge of a large river, the Urnngu.
A pecnliar feature about this lake is that a narrow ridge of highland
separatea its north-eastern extremity from the Black Irtish, and there-
fore from the basin of the Obi and the Frozen Ocean.
Prejevakky and his party passed along its western and southern
fihores to the Chinese fort of BulaD-tohoi, sittiated at the month of the
Unrngu. 'J'hey then followed this river, which has a course of abont
300 miles, and derives its source from the Altai Mountains, cutting a
deep channel through the plain lying between them and the Thian Shan
range. Not long before the expedition passed this way a large body of
Kirghizes, numbering about 9000, had wintered on the Urungu, having
escaped from tho control of the Eussian authorities in Soniipalatinsk.
They had suffered terribly from want of fodder for their cattle, and
Prejevalsky saw numerous traces of their encumpments along a tract
extending over 100 miles up the Urungii, where everything edible had
been devoured, even to the hark of the poplur trees, which had been
felled and stripped, while the ground was strewn with the carcases of
their dead sheep. This incident serves to illustrate tho great change
that has come over Central Asia sinoe the days when Jinghis Khan
and other great conq^nerors found sufficient sustonanco for their vast
arniies.
The natives of the upper valley of the Urungu or its chief tributary,
the Bttliigun, are Turgtite-Kalmuks, whose kinsmen, inhabiting north-
western Dzungaria at the foot of the Tarbogotai range, are the descen-
dants of those Kalmuks who, driven out of their camping grounds by
the Bzungars, migrated to the banks of the Volga and Ural at the end
of the 17th century, and in 1770 suddenly departed, to the number of
460,000 families, into the depths of Asia under the leadership of their
Khan UWsihi, and arrived, though in greatly diminished numhers, on
Lake Balkash, and afterwards at Ili, where lands were given them hy
the Chinese Emperor. The Turgutes are subjects of the Emperor of
<Jhina, and remnants of them who escaped tho Dungan insurrection now
occupy the lands about Yulduz and Kara-shahr.
After ascending tbe Urungu and Bulugun, Prejevalsky crossed a
sand waste to the foot of the Thian Shan, called by Mm the desert of
Dzungaria, after tho countiy of which it forms part. It is bounded on
throo sides by moantains, while on the east, where the Altai and Thian
Shan ranges appr*>ach one another, an isthmus of sand unites it with
B 2
aiG PREJEVALSKrS JOURNETS AND DISCOVERIES
the Golu,* This coBBection existed in distant ages, when the whole
area of what is now known as th© Gobi was covered by a sea menlioned
in Chinese annals as Kan-haLj The Dzimgarian desert formed a great
gulf of this sea commnnicating with another x&st water-apread, the
Aralo-Caepian.
Frejo%'alsky describes at some length its climate, soil, flora, and
fenna ; we have only space here, however, for a few of his remarkis.
First, the most characteristic of the flora of this, and indeed the whole
of the Central Adan plains and deserts, is thi» Saxaul (Haloxjflon
ammodendron\ called by the Mongol b zal\ a tree or shrub growing
to a height of fourteen feet, and a thickness near the root of half to
three-quarters of a foot. It is most commonly met with in the drift
sands, particularly in Ala-shan and in Rnssian Turk is tan. It is by no
means attractive in appearance, it gives no shade, and the sand round
it is devoid of all other vegetation. But its usefulness to the nomad
ifl beyond description ; it supplies kim with fuel, and his camels with
food ; its wood, though heavy and hard, is exceedingly brittle, so much
S0| that a large log of it when struck with the axe will fall to pieces.
Henoe it is of no use for building purposes, but it bums splendid I y»
almost like coal, and retains its heat a long time. Its geographioal
distribution is very wide in Inner Asia. It is met with throughout the
vast tract extending from the Caspian Sea on the west, to the limits
of China Proper on the east, and through nearly 12^ of latitude from
the parallel of Lake Uliunghur on the north to Tsaidam on the south,
where it grows at a height of 10,000 feet above the seaj but its chief
habitat is the Gobi and Northern Ala-shan, Bznngaria, and Russian
Turkistan* Of the fauna of Dzungaria, we must mention the wild
horse — ^Frejevalskj^'s wild horse — a stuffed specimen of which ia pre-
served at the Academy of Sciences at St. Petersburg, and the wild camel,
the Bactrian two-humped species. Both these animals inhabit the
wildest and least accessiblo parts of the desert. The wild horsCj wliich
jmlsBontologistB have shown was onco widely distributed over Europe
and Asia, is now only met with in a corner of the desert of Bxungaria :
but the wild camel was also observed by Prejevakky in the desert of
Lob, where he was the first European to see it since the Venetian
traveller Marco Polo, six centuries ago, passed this way.
On turning southward from the valley of the Bulngun he soon left
behind him the Altai and approached the Thian Shan, visible in the
clear atmosphere of the desert 130 miles off, while its highest peak»
Bogdo-ula, could be seen before leaving the Urungu, 160 miles distant.
Among its spurs he found a few Chinese settlers, but they were not so
numerous as they had been before the Dungan insurrection, and they
had entirely driven away the nomada.
• Borne ckains of mouataioi between the Turbogotoi and Tbian Shan bonier it on
tiw woat* t Or ** tha dry mq,*'
I
I
IN CENTRAL ASU.
217
Passing the salt lake and plain of Barkul,' Prejovalaky crossed tire
-xnain a,xx3i of the Thiao Shan l>y a pass 8700 feet high,| and descended
<o the oasis of Hauii on the south side*
This oasis, supplied with moiiiture by the streams which descend
:from the snowy muuntaiDs, though of no great extent, is reniarkably
3>roductive, Com, vegetaljles, grapes and melons are grown here, the
last of such exceptionally fine flavour as to he considered worthy of
"being sent to the court of Peking. But Hami in its present state shows
unmistakable evidence uf the ravages committed by the Mahommedan
Tebels. Its trees have all been felled, its gardens destroyed, its home-
uteads laid in ruins. Only within the last few years have the Chinese
l)egim restoring their houses and cultivating the land. Prejevalsky
considers it an over-rated place, not to be compared with Kulja, that
" pearl of Central Asia/'
The natives of Hami are descended from the ancient Uighurs, and
are called Taranchi.} They wear a national drese, consisting of an ampU^
flowered klialal or robe, and a cap of a peculiar shape, worn at the back of
the head. The women are good-looking, black -eyed and black-haired,
with splendid white teeth, but unfortunately they fullow the Chinese
custom of painting their faces* They walk out unveiled, and are gene-
rally free and easy in their mannerB, just as they were in Marco Folot*
time.
Kami is a strategical place of the highest importance, as it commands
the chief roads from China Proper to Eastern Turkistan and Bzungaria.
It is the key to all the cities Bituatod along the Thian Shan, fur here a
road passable for wheeled vehicles crosses the narrowest part of the
desert to An-si-chau. By this route, 250 miles long, Prejevalskj'
passed, resting his caravan, much exhausted by the fiery urdeal they
had gone through, in the environs of Sha-chau.
Sha^^hau is one of the best oases of Central Asia, It is situated at
the foot of the Nan-shan range, at a height of 3700 feet above the sea,
and occupies an area of about 200 square miles, the whule of which is
thickly inhabited by Chinese,§ Sha-chau || is interesting as the meeting-
place of three expeditions started independently from Kubsia, India, and
China. Just two months before Prejevalsky reached this town it was
• The town of Baikal, founilod by the Cliii»eie in 1731, rcmjimud on one side ef
PtejevalftkyN route» iiud was not visited by liim.
t On eitber uidc uf tbia range tfiL-re iB ft cart*rofld leading from Wi stem China.
The northern road^ Peh^lii* kad^ lo Daikul, Guchen» UrumtBi, Manas, 5<hi-ho, Jinhft
and beyond vi& tbo Talki jjciss to Kulja. The Boutbera toutt'^ Niiq-Iu, paiBca ibrougU
f icliun*Turfaiif Kjura-^habr, Korla^ Kucha, Bai, Akau to Ki^bgar.
I Hami is composed of three parts, two CldDeee (an old and a now) und on^>
Tkoandii
{ Preje?Dlfiky efetimateB the fopulatiou at 10,000, «f whom 2000 were froldicrs.
&6C;cbenyi given 12,000 as tht.» totiiL
Alio koown bj its Chinese name Tung-hwim-haien.
218
PREJEVALSKY^S JOURNEVS AND DISCOVERIES
I
visited b^^ Count Szeclienyi,* jtiid eighteen montlia afterwards Pundit
A— k, whose re|x>rt of it agi'ees fiiirly well with that of our traveller,
also Btayed here. Both Prejevalsky and Szeclienyi remark on some
curious eaves in a VMlley near Sha-chau containing Buddhistic clay
idols. These caves were in Jlarco Polo's time the resort of numerous
worshippers, and are said to date hack to the Han dynasty .f
Undeterred by the suspicious and unfriendly attitude of the Chinese,
who thwarted him in every way, Prejevahiky pushed on towards Tibet,
now seeking the road hy scouting^ now pressing into his 'service ooca*
sional Mongols with whom he chanced to meet. He crossed the Nan-
shan, whose glittering snowy Bumniits stood forth in startling contrast
with the dark blue canoj^y of the heavens, those mountains which
extend on the ea«t to the sources of the lloang-ho and on the weat to
Loh-nor» Khoten, and the Pamir, forming a gigantic northern barrier to
the whole of the Tibetan uplands*
By his discovery in 1876 of the AltjTi-tagh, Prejevakky defined the
till then unknown conoeotion hetw^een the Kan-shan and Kuen-ldn, at
all eventa in a general way, and the position of the northern harrier of
the Tibetan plateau, advancing this in the meridian of Loh-nor 3^
farther to the north than had hitherto been supposed. Tsaidam proved
to be enclosed on all sides by mountains, w^hile the Kuen-ldn, extend-
ing under various names from the sources of the Yarkand river far into
the interior of China Proper, margined the lofty uplands of Tibet only
in its western part on the side facing the low Tarim desert. The far-
thtr margin of that Tibetan plateau is formed hy the nowdy discovered
Altyn-tagh, uniting on the one side by means of the Toguz-dahan with
the Kuen-liin, and on the other, as may be now confidently asserted,
with the Nanshan, stretching from Sha-chau to the Yellow river.
In this way an uninterrupted gigantic mountain wall stretches from
the Upper Iloang-ho to the Pamir, dividing the great intumescence of
Central Asia into two parts, the Mongolian desert on the norths and the
Tibetan plateau on the south, ■
Nowhere in this world is there to ho met with on such a scale so
marked a difierence between two countries lying side hy side. The
chain of mountains separating them is often not wider than aboat
30 miles, and yet on either aide of it lie tracts completely distinct in
their ge<dogical formation and topographical relief, in their elevation
and climate, their flora and fauna, and lastly, in the origin and the
fortunes of the peoples inhabiting them.
But let ns return to the Nan-shan. This range, as wo have stated,
extends westward from the Upper Hoang-ho, and is divided into several
parallel chains forming a mountainous alpine country, widest to the
north and north-west of Koko-nor, where parts of it rise utove the
* In April 1S79.
t Whetlier to tiie first or eecond dynaity of that name is imkiiowu.
IX CENTRAL ASIA.
919
snow-line. In tlie meridian of Shu-chati ll:e Nan-alian narrows to a
l>elt o£ 27 miles, and even less near the sno^vy groiip of Aiiembar-ula,
But before ibis contraction, 60 railoa to tlio east of the gioup just
mentioned, it stand b as a gigantic range crowned with perpetual snow
for a distance of over 70 miles in a direction W.N.W. to E.8-E.*
In the Nan-shan mountains, Prejevalsky pitched his camp in a
chanuing spot by the side of a brook, which ho called ** Botmteous," ft
name it richly deserved for its life-giving properties. The Nan-shan,
in the meridian of Sha-chau, is a sterilo, treeless range, differing widely
from its eastern part, the soKialled mountains of Eansu, In the last-
namedf dense forests of every kind of tree and sknib clothe the slopes,
particularly on the north. The alpine zone abounds in rhododendrons
and ridi pasturage ; the treeless Sha-chau mounttiins, on tho other
kand« have only about a dozen kinda of bushes, and but little variety
m their herbaceous flora,t while their avifauna is proportionately
deficient.
Instead of grassy slopes, there are beds of rocky detritus, or bare
clay, giving an aspect of dreariness and monotony to the scene. Yet
the higher bolts possess a savage grandeur, with their summits towering
above the main axis, their precipices, and white-capped peaks.
In these wild mountains, Prejevalsky and his Cossacks remained
several weeks hunting and exploring. Among tho additions to their
zoological collection, was a now species of deer,| and tho large Tibetan
partridge § inhabiting the highest alpine belts. They visited a glacier,
17,100 feet by barometrical measurement, and gaining the crest of tho
range had a magnificent view of its whole extent.
But here a disaster nearly overtook them. Their mutton and dried
venison being all consumedj they sent out hunters every day to tiy and
obtain deer or yak. Owing, however, to the scarcity of these animals,
they often returned empty handed, One day, a Cossack reported that
ho had fired at and wounded a yak, but approaching darkness had
* At lis eastern extremity this rangte is joined almost at right angles by another
nn^ ocMaing from tJio W.S.W», equally snowy, thonE;:h perhaps leaa continued. In its
ioathem part this range is ci»tili;^oiiii with the desert of Xortiicrn Tcjaidani, near Luke
Ike-TsaidaiDin-nor. Neither of thei^ snowy ranges liayiDg aoy genend name among
ihe local inhabitanUj whe only diBlinguisli cirtain porta of the moimtams and their
chief peaks, Prejevalsky claiming^ the rights fif » first discoverer, chrietenod one — that
extending along the mnln axia of tho Xan-^han — Humboldt range, nml the other,
porpeadicnlar with it Hitter range. Dietinci peaks of Humboldt range attain au
devation of 19,000 fe^:t, and perhaps more in ita central and eastern parts,
f Tho limit of Yegetatiou on Huinbokli range lies nt an elevation of 13,700 feet on
th© nortljem* and 15,000 feet on tbe Bouthcrn aide. The Bnow-linc is TOO feet higher
on either side.
X Ccrvus dWirostris n, sp.
J Megitlopcrdrix thibetanus. Its general name in Asia is utiar^ a word of Kirghiz
or Torldsh origin ; the Mongola call it fuiillh, and tho Tibetans ktm*j-mo. There aro
two other varieties of this bird foutid in the Himulja and Altai MeuntainSi bat the
httbits of life and call-note of all three are the same.
220
PREJEVALSKY'S JOURNETS AND DISCOVERIES
obliged him to almiidon the pTirsnit, The next daj, he and a com-
panion Yegoroff, set ont to renew the search ; they came upon tho
track of the wounded yak, showing that it had climhed a mountain
ridge and descended the southern slope. The hunters, excited ^v^th tho
chase, followed, A mile or two beyond tho pass they came across a herd
of wild sheep, into which they fired a Tolley, and while Kalminin went
to aseertain if any had fallen, YegorofF continued his pursuit of the yak.
In the meantime, Kalminin unexpectedly shot a kulan or wild donkey,
and haTing don© this, he returned to tho spot where he had parted with
Yegoroff and shouted* EeceiTing no answer, and thinking it possible
his eompanioB hEid gone straight back to camp, Kalminin retraced his
steps and joined his party at ton that night. The nert morning, the
prolonged absence of Yegoroff caused much anxiety, and a search party
was organised* For some miles they followed the tracks of the hunter,
hut at last lost all trace of him in tho maze of crags and defiles. For
£vG days they continued their search, Prejevalsky himself assisting.
They climbed the rocks in all directions, thoy fired off their guns, and
then concluding Yegoroff had perished from exhaustion, with heavy
hearts they broke up their encampment and resumed their march.
They had gone about 17 miles^ when the leading Cossack discerned,
by the aid of a field -glass, a man coming down the mountains towards
their caravan ; two of the party set out at a gallop to meet him, and
within half an hour they had brought back with them the unfortunate
Yegoroff. He couldl hardly 8t4ind ; his face was sunken and nearly
black, his eyes bloodshot, his lips and nose swollen ; he wore nothing
but a shirt J and his feet were bound in rags. When he had sufficiently
recovered, he related how he had come upon the yak ; how he had
wounded him a second time, how he had again pursued him till dark,
and how, when he had turned his steps homeward, he had taken the
wrong directioD, and when morning dawned he had found himself on
the Syrten plain, He'told too how he had made his way again to the
mountainsj hut instead of going north had gone west, and how he had
kept himself alive by chewing rhubarb leaves and drinking water ; he
had also shot partridges, and eaten them raw. On the fifth day he
came upon a herd of Mongol cows, but there were no herdsmen to be
seen, they having fled probably at the eight of a stranger ; he wanted
milk» but alaSj the cows were all dry ; his strength was sensibly
diminishing, and he knew that in a day or two he must die from t^heer
exhaustion ; he determined therefore to walk to the very last, and then
by tho side of a spring wash his shirt and die. Thus ended Yegoroff*8 tale.
The expedition now entered the Tsaidani plains, an expanso of salt-
marsh and clay flats, dotted with lakes, and elevated about 10,000 feet
above the sea. Its ^Mongol inhabitants* received the Russians well,
* Tlie MongoU of Tsaidam cultivate patcbee of the soil and o1>tDiii gmxl craps wherf*
there is irrigatLon*
I
IN CENTRAL ASU. 221
bnt feared to show them the direct road to Tibet, lest they should incur
pimishmeiit from the Chinese authorities. The expedition had therefore
to take a circuitous route along northern Tsaidam, which led them into
the track followed by Prejevalsky in 1872-3. The native princes,
acting doubtless by orders from Peking, refused Prejevalsky both guides
and provisions, and it cost him no little trouble, and he had even to
resort to threats to obtain these. At length he reformed his caravan,
and prepared to enter the promised land, the mysterious realm of
Tibet.
Northern Tibet* offers no exception to the well-known grandeur of
Asiatic scenery. No other part of the world has anything to compare
with its gigantic tablelands, 13,000 to 15,000 feet above the sea, its
stupendous mountain ranges, not lofty compared with the general
elevation of the country, yet bordered by the wildest alps.
But few Europeans have crossed its solitudes and these have followed
the routes taken by the Buddhist pilgrims from Sining to Lh4sa.t Un-
fortunately none of them left a detailed geographical description of his
journey through Northern Tibet. Far more important in this respect
were the services rendered by Pundit Nain Singh in 1873, when he
accomplished his remarkable journey from Ladakh to Lhasa vi& Tengri-
nor, took 497 altitudes, and determined the latitudes of 276 points.^
Another pundit proceeded from Eastern Nepaul to Tengri-nor, skirted
its northern shore, and returned by way of Lhdsa to India.
Prejevalsky himself on his first expedition penetrated 200 miles into
Northern Tibet by the same pilgrims' road, as far as the confluence of
the Napchitai-ulan-murren with the Mur-ussu, the head-waters of the
Yaiig-tse-kiang.
In 1879-80 he again made his way to the upper Yang-tse-kiang,
oros^ed this river and the Tang-la range, besides exploring the upper
Hoang-ho to the south of Koko-nor.§
* PrejeTaUky iacludes within Tibet, viewed in its widest physioo-geographical
aspect, the region to the north bounded by the Altyn-tagh, the basin of Koko-nor and
the Tangntan country, all of which lie outside Tibet proper, but from the similarity
of their physical conditions may be included in it
t In 1624 the Jesuit Antonio Andrada set ottt from Agra and reached the sacred
shores of Lake Mansarowar ; thence he made his way to Rudok, and eventually by
way of Tangut to China (Markham's * Tibet,* p. Ivi.)- In 1661 the missionaries
Grueber and D*Orville passed through Lhasa to Agra on the Ganges. Between 1723-
1736 the Dutchman Samuel van der Putte travelled from India to Peking througli
IMsa and back again to India; and lastly, in 1845, the missionaries Hue and Gabet
reached the capital of the Tale Lama from Northern China, and returned through
Southern China to Canton.
X Sec * Journal R.G.8.,' vol. xlvii. pp. 86-136.
§ Eastern Tibet was also visited in 1862 by the Abb^ Desgodins, who went from
Bathang to Cha-mou-to (Chiamto) (See * Proc. R.G.S.,' 1885 and 1886. ' La Thibet d*apres
la correspondance des Missions ') ; and Pundit A— k, during his four years* travels,
succeeded in making his way from Lhdsa to Tyingali (Tengelik) in 36^ N. lat and
96° E. long., and thenc^ through Xorth- western Tsiidam to Sha-chau.
222
fREJEVALSKrS JOURNEYS AND DISCOVERIES
I
Meagre as our geographical information is concerning Northera
Tibet, its general features may be rongkly sketched, more especially
as nature has fashioned it on a large scale. The limits of our plateau
are the Kuen-lun on the north, and the northern Himtilja on the
south ; from east to west it extends from the Karakornm, and its south-
eastern continuations, to the borders of Sze-chnen and Kan-su, The
eastern, smaller half of this region differs widely from the western.
A line drawn diagonally from Lake Tengri-nor to the sources of the
Yellow river would servo to EQark the division. West of such a line
lies a continuous table land almost without relief, and having no waters
flowing towards the ocean except in its eastern part. East of this line «
all the streams belong to the oceanic watershed, the country loses its f
tableland aspect, and now and again presents grandiose alpine scenery.
The whole of Tibet may from the diversity of its topographical
features l^e divided into three parts :^a southern, comprising the upper
valleys of the Indus, the head-waters of the Sutlej and the Brahmft-
putra ; a northern, presentiDg a continuous tableland ;* and an eaatem^
containing an alpine country reaching far into China Proper.f The
Kuen-lun on the north and the Northern Himalya on the south are
its repreeeutativo chains, but neither of these has been yet fuUy ex-
plored, though their main features have been revealed to us by the
Pundits Nain Sing } and D. in the case of the Kortliem Himilya, and ■
by Fi-ejevalsky in the central parta of the Kuen-liin. f
The climate of Tibet is characterised by (1) a low temperature at all
seasons of the year, notwithstanding its southern position; (2) a pre-
valence of violent storms, especially in spring ; and (3) by excessive
dryness of atmosphere in autumn, winter, and spring — on the other
hand, by an ahundance of humidity in summer. §
Turning to the flora and fauna of Korthorn Tibet, we again meet
with a strange phenomenon, a poor vegetation contrasting w^ith large
numbers of herbivorous animals. Of trees there are none, and Preje-
valsky only found three kinds of bushes, one of which — the wdllow—
grew half a foot in height ; the others lie on the ground* There are
three or four kinds of grasses along the banks of the Mur-ussu and some
other valleys, but the soil is for the most part bare, or only occasionally
covered with plants about an inch in growth. But its fauna places
* I am informed bj Mi* Ney Elias tbut this country may prove to be momifcimuiw,
just as parts of Nortb-eaat Tibet actually visited by Prejevaltiky* In tljesame way tbo
Pamir uraa tbougbt to bo a continuous tableland before exploration proved it to be a
fiucceaaion of ranges,
t Itii not proposed in tlii» paper to enter into the orographical details commumcated
by Prejevalaky. Thesti might form the subject of an apfMjndii in a separate paper.
I Kain Blrigli measured a peak, Gandizri (i% 25,000 ft^et higb^ and Pundit D. saw
equally lofty summits aouth of Tengri*non — Juurual K.G.S., vol. xlvii. p. 105.
§ 1 am ioformcd by Mr, Ney Elias that the humidity noticed in Eastern Tibet and
Kftu-su docs not extend to Western Tibet
IK CENTRAL ASIA.
Tibet in a separate zooiogical category, not from the variety of species,*
but from their number and aize. Probably there is hardly any part of
the world, except perhaps Inner Africa, where there are such nmnbera
of wild animals as are met with on the solitudes of Northern Tibet,
Hare in one day the traveller may see hundreils of herds of yaks, wild
aeses, and antelope, and these show' no signs of alarm at the approach of
man. Their numbers may be estimated, not by tens or hundreds of
thunsands, but by millions*
The first place among them is taken by the wild yak, which may
be distinguished from the domestic species by many, thougli compara-
tively minor, zoological marks, and may be calledt as Prejcvalakj'
suggests, Poejihagus muius, owing to the fact that this animal never
utters a sound, while its domestic congener grunts like a pig, and is
therefore named by Pallas Bo9 grtmniens.
Then there are two beautiful kinds of antelope.f two kinds of
mountain sheep4 frequenting the wildest crags ; lastly, a deer, only
found in small numbers on some of tbo mountains, but not on the
plateau itself.
On advancing into Tibet, mraours reached the expedition that the
Tibetans had assembled troops to prevent their approaching the capital.
Neyertheless they advanced, full of hope and scorning every inauspicious
omen and report. In order to avoid the high pass over the Burhan
Buddlia they turned into the defile of the Nomokhun-gol, passing along
one of those barren, stony plains so common in Central Asia,§ margining
with a wide and slightly inclined belt the foot of the Bnrhan Buddha.
Here, in the midst of tamarisk bushes, they came upon patches of culti-
vated land, sown with barley, a rare sight in a country inhabited by
Mongols, who hate and despise agriculture. Having passed the Burhan
Buddha and Shuga || ranges, the last-named by a pass of 15,200 feet, they
entered a remarkable valley, only thi-ee miles wide, but 70 miles long,
forming a natural causeway between two huge ranges. At either end of
it, passes % lead southwards across the range named by Prejevalsky
• AU the mumnials found by PrejeTtilaky in Nortbern Tibet belon;^ to four orders,
distributed on follows :— Caraivora, ^ ; Gliresi 6 ; Soliiiuiigula^ 2 ; HuxiiififUiLid, 1^.
t Tbe orongo (Panthoiops Ih^gsoni) and iidft (Prtxapra pictk<mda}.
X The wbite-brea«ted argnli (Otis //-H/*/sonj ?) and Kuko-yaman {Ps^ifvia Xttftoor).
§ The ocrurreDce of eimilar jilaiiis iti Afghan iatiiii hns lK?en expkincd by C L.
Gnedbuch, Ike geologist on the Afghan Boondaiy Commiiibion, in the following wny :
** Nearly all the great valleys of Southern Afgh&DistaD are covered TirUh poat-Pliocent'
depomU in great thickness ; amongst them b conspicuous a deposit of gravel and
iireguliir fragments of rock from the Hirrronnding hills, more or lets firmly eomen ted
together by a calcareona or argillaceous matrix forming a breccia. After ilia integration
has taken ]ilace on the snrfacc of this deposli, t\w prevailing Band«eharged stonnB
ffinuHre such decomposed niat*?rbl^ leaving the larger particka, namely, th<i pebbles and
sogoliir rock frogmentSf behind^ producing wide spreads of those Btoije-»trt?wn plains,
chanLctenstic of this part of Asia, and commonly termed dasht by the natives."
H Described in Prejevalsky's book, * Mongoliii, &c-/ voL ii. chap. (1,
^ Chium-ChiuTO is the name of the eastern pass, 16^300 feet» Anghir-dakeliin (A— k's
mm
224 .
PREJEVALSKY'S JOURNEYS AND DISCOVERIES
"Marco Polo." Their outward track lay by the eastern pass, their
return journey by the weBtem. They were now fairly on the plateaa
of Northern Tibet, and for tho remaindor of their journey in that countr^^
never descended below 14,000 feet. Hero their difficnliies were great.
The guide refused to show theoi tho way, or probably did not know
it ; tho weather turned cold, with continued enowfalls, though it was
only the middle of October, and their camels and horses could find
nothing to eat ; the artjoh l>ecame damp and refused to bnrn, and thei^
was every prospect of an early winter. It required some resolution on
the part of the leader of the expedition and hie men to persevere.
Difficulties, however, could not daunt them, and they all as one man h
said, *' Come what may^ we will go forward." (
They still advanced in the same south-westerly direction towrards
the Koko-shili or Blue range,* visible as a long wall on the horizon.
After tw^o days more of bad weather, tho snn ahone out brilliantly, but
the glare from the snow caused ophthalmia to men as well as animals,
and one of their sheep became totally blind. But there were sjTnptoms
of a change for the better, and the severe cold they hsd so recentl}'^
experienced had been exceptional. After they had extricated them-
selves— not without difficulty, for they had no guide — from the Koko-
ehili Mountains^ the weather became warmer, and the snow melted off H
the southern slopes,
Btjfore reaching the next parallel range, the Dumbure.f they crossed
a plain 15,000 feet above tho sea, studded with lakelets fed by springs,
where the sandy soil supports a scanty vegetation consisting of mingled
alpine and steppe forms* Their next march was most difficult, for they
had not only to cross the main axis of the Dumbure and two of its
ramifications, but to traverse intermediate tracts of half-frozen marsh
land. Having at last extricated themselves from these mountains, they
arrived on the banks of the Mur-ussu* Hero they halted for tw^o
days, before ascending its valley, by a well-worn track taken by the
LhEksa pilgrims. But this disappeared altogether after about twenty
miles, and they had again to report to scouting in order to find the
road. Fortunately, they were by this time so experienced in local land-
AngliirtdkebiB) tliRt on the west A — k also gives thin name AngkiMflkahin to a long
ningeljiDgeajjt and vmet, piobtibly identical vvitli Prejfcfvalfeky'B "Marco Fcslo "* rajigK,
He dcilTes this name from u medlcimil herb used for burning as incense, Cf. * B«port
on the Explorations in Grtat Tibet and Mongolia,' p. 42.
* The Koko-shili m a ^est4^rlj ooutinuution of tli© Baian-kara-ula. It Btretcbca
from the point tit which the expoditicn cioMod it for 400 tnikei due we^t. Its height
abovo the plain iw only between 1000 mud 2000 ft*t, but tb<j plain itself is 1*1,000 feet
above sea-leveh A — k'a *' Khokliosili," at tlic point wbtro he croesed it, io 35*^ 10' 37"
N» !at. The height of the pasu, bb measured by boiliDg wa(er» was 13,430 feet, Cf.
Eeport, p. 41. His "Khokbo«ili" lies to ibe ouulh of the Ma-chu river (Prejevalaky'i
Na pchitai-uilan'nmrren) .
t A— k*B " Dung^bnra/'
IN CENTRAL ASU. 925
marks, that they had no difficulty in hitting off the right line. But
the severe marching had told on the camels and horses; four of the
former and one of the latter were disabled, and it was necessary to
reduce the number of loads. A cache was therefore made in a natural
valley in the mountains, where some of their heavier baggage, including
the skins of animals, was left to be called for on their return. This
was satisfactorily accomplished, and the expedition again pushed
forward. But toils and hardships began to tell on all the men^ who not
only felt the usual effects of travel at great heights, loss of strength,
giddiness, shortness of breath, sometimes palpitations of the heart and
general lassitude, but one or other of the Cossacks was always ailing
with cold or headache. Happening upon the tracks of a caravan that
had recently passed and trodden down the snow, they were able to cross
the Tang-la Plateau, which lay like a mighty swelling in front of them,
crowned in the far distance with a long chain of snowy summits. But '
first they forded the Mur-ussu, the water only two and a half feet deep,
being at its lowest, and the ice, though strong enough to bear a man,
would not support an animal.
The pass over the Tang-la is 16,700 feet of absolute height, yet
only 2100 feet above the valley of the Mur-ussu, and 2000 feet above
that of the Sang-chu flowing at the foot of its southern slope. Yet the
ascent of this plateau from the north is 80 miles long and the descent
50 miles.* Towards the west of the caravan road, the Tang-la is still
loftier, and its snowy peaks f stand closer together than towards the east.
In this direction too, i. e. towards the east, the range runs, according
to hearsay reports, for 130 miles as a snowy ridge, and possibly the
Tang-la itself, together with its accompanying plateau, continue east-
wards, though on a smaller scale, to the Ein-sha-kiang, or Upper
Yang-tse-kiang, where this river has a due southerly course. And if
such be the case, the Tang-la range, like the Baian-kara-ula, divides the
sources of the greatest rivers of Eastern Asia, the Yang-tse-kiang on one
side, the Gamboja and Salwin on the other.t
* Equal to a rise of one foot in 26 miles on the north, and one foot in 40 miles on
X the south. The Tang-la might, therefore, be easily crossed by a railroad.
t The snowy peaks seen by Prejevalsky on the Tang-la were at least 19,000 to 20,000
feet above the sea, and the snow-line is at 17,000 feet on the northern side and about
17,500 feet on the southern side.
X All the rivers of the northern slope of the Tang-la cerfainly join the Mur-ussu,
which has its source here. From the southern slope of the western Tang-la, accoiding
to the information collected by Prejevalsky, flows the river Zacha-Sanpo falling into
Lake Mitlk-jansu (probably the Chargut-cho of Nain Singh). This lake is also the
reservoir of other streams, which are themselves fed by lakes lying south and west
along the northern slope of the Northern Him^lya range. Lake Mityk-jansu or
Chargut-cho, sends its surplus drainage to the east by a river entering Lake Amdo-
t&onak, and from this agnin issues another river called Nnp-chu by Tibetans and
Kara-ussu by Mongols. This river, known in its lower course as the Lu-tse-kiang
(Tibetan Nge-kio) and other names, appears in Indo-China as the Salwin.
In this way, if there really be this connection between LiJce Mityk-jansu and the
PREJKVALSKrS JOURNEYS AND DISCOVERIES
Tlie inb 111 >i tail ta t>f these platcraiix were Ycgrais,* tbo first Been fiinc50
the expedition left Tsaidam, aTid Goliki^f two TaBgiitaii trthets known
Tinder the general name of Sok-pa. The Yegrais nomadi&e in the I'ang-la,
moving from place to place according to the supply of food for their
cattle ; tho camping groTinds of the Gollki arc on the Bine river, much
Mow it^ confluence with tho Napchitai-ulan-mnrren, Prejc valsk}' saw
nothing of tho Goliki, hut came acrosB the Yegrais while ascending the
Tang-la, and afterwards fought them when they attempted to close the
pass to his caravan. Their appearance closely resembles that of all
the tribes of Northern Tibet, though there are probably slight differenoee
between them, but not enough to be distingiiiahed by a paesing
traveller* Their long, matted, black locks fall on their sboulders,
their whiakers and beard are scanty, their face and head angular, their
complexion dark, their dress dirty. They carry a «word thrust into their
Ijelt, a gun of the old matchlock typo over their shoulders, a lance in
their hands, and are always on horsebaek. They are spoilt by the sub-
mifisiveness of the Mongol pilgrims whom they plunder as well as every
caravan eoniing from and going to Lhilsa. They live in black tents
made of the hair of the yak. Their occnpations, l>esides those of a
predatory kind, are bunting and cattle-breeding. Their domesticated
animal a are the yak, sheep, and a few horses. They number 400 tents
or 2iH}0 souls of both sexes. After his engagement with the Yegrais
Pi-ejevalfiky came to some warm springs on the south side of the Tang*la.
One of these, surrounded by si licious crags at a height of 15,600 feet
above the sea, had a temperature of 90^ Fahr.t Within the rock a dull
s50und is heard continually and the noise made by the water is like the
blows of a hammer ; by their side is a funnel in the rock sending forth
suflfocating steam.
On the fifth day of their descent from the Tang-la the exp€N3ition
loft its plateau and arrived at [the Sang-cbu river (14,700 feet),§ where
more westerly lakes as shown in Nain Siiij;li*s route map (see J^mrnal ILG.S*, vol. xlvii.
pp, 87 and 110), the eouroea of the Salwin [or perhaps tlio Irawadi] should be placed od
tbo tftljleland of Northern TiWt in 83p E, long, and about 32^^ N. kt., or a littJe east of
the meridian of the sourcea of the Yaru-Sanpo» i. e. Upper Brahmftputra, If this should
prove to be tho case, both these rivere, the Solwin [? Iruwadi] for au ijomeuse extent of
their upper courso aloug the j>lfttejiii of Tibet, flow from west to tast piirallel with, and
at no grtat diatancu from, one nuuther, parted, however, by the mighty Northern
Htnuilja ehaiu.
* Cf. * Meagolia/ vol. ii. p. 151.
t The Goliki are probably tho Koks of Abbe Hue.
X The lower springs are nine miles from the upper one on the bnaks aud in the bed
of a brook, the Tiing-chu, which also recojvei the drainage of the upper apring* Two
of them throw up fuuntains 3 and 4 feet high, tlje othera issue in small streams with a
hissing or Vmbbliug sound. Tlic uiaxLimum tempers^ture observed at the lower springs
WB8 I2t Fahr.
§ The B.iug-chu fSows into the Taag-chu, called by the Mongola, Biij^yn-gob atid
this latter has a soath^eftateily course intothj Nap-chu or Kara-nssu, Tlie valley of
J
IN CENTRAL ASIA. 227
they met with the first encampments of Tibetans, whose black tents
were scattered about the valley, among herds of yak and flocks of
sheep.
On their second march from this valley they learnt that the Tibetans
had decided not to allow them to pass, and that great excitement pre-
vailed at Lh4sa, where reports were circulated that the Russians were
coming to steal the T41e Lama and destroy their faith. Pickets had
been stationed from the village of Napchu on the frontier to the pass
over the Tang-la, but these had been withdrawn on the approach of
winter, as it was thought that the expedition had been deferred. Now,
on its sudden appearance, soldiers and militia were at once assembled on
the frontier, and the inhabitants were forbidden on pain of death to sell
the Russians anything or enter into relations with them. Two officials
with an escort of ten soldiers were sent from Napchu to inquire who
they were, in order that the authorities at Lh&sa might be at once
informed on all points.
Having advanced to within a short distance of the village of
Napchu * and met the Tibetan officials, Prejevalsky halted, and here
he was obliged to wait until an answer had been received from Lh&sa.
On the sixteenth day the answer came, positively refusing to allow them
to proceed. And thus they were compelled to return when they were
within 170 miles of the capital of Tibet.
I must now say something of Prejevalsky 's fourth journey to Tibet,
1883-1885. Having left St. Petersburg in August 1883, he travelled to
Eiachta, where he finally equipped his party, numbering altogether
twenty men, well practised in the use of firearms.
From IJrga he again crossed the widest part of the Gobi to Ala-shan,
and marched thence to the Chinese city of Si-ning. Early in May 1884
he arrived at the foot of the Burhan-Buddha, having left a depdt in
Eastern Tsaidam of all his superfluous baggage and spare camels under
the charge of seven Cossacks, while he and his companions, a party of
fourteen, started to explore the sources of the Hoang-ho or Yellow river.
After about 70 miles of marching over a barren plateau, 14,000 to
16,000 feet high, they reached their goal. The Hoang-ho is formed by
two streams flowing from the south and west out of mountains scattered
the Sang-cha i» bordered on the south by a low ridge, the Jugulun, which forms the
northern margin of another upland extending some distance to the south, probably to
the Sarotyn-Kansyr (Sanden-Khansa of A — ^k's map), which stands on the south bank
of the Nap-chu. This snow chain (i. e. Samtyn-Eansyr) is, in Prejevalsky's opinion, the
easternmost spur of the Nien-chen-tang^la, and therefore of the Northern Him&lya.
Samiyn-Khansyr divides the waters flowing down its northern slope to the Kara-ussu
and down its southern slope to the Yaru-Sangpo, i. e. Upper Brahmaputra.
* Hue's Naptchu, A — ^k*8 Nag-chu, situate on the river of the same name. Abbd
Hue was fifteen days going from Napcliu to Lh^Ua.
228
PREJEVALSKV*S JOURNEYS AND DISCOVERIES
over a wklo marsh j plain (40 miles long by 12 wido)^ known under the
name of Odon-tala (thousand fiprlnga). Here tlio Hoang-ho appears
as a very modest river, divided into two or throe channelB, each from
70 to 90 ftset wide and two feet deep at the fords. After flowing in this
way fur 12 miles it passes through two great lakes^ the Jarin and the
Orin, 13,500 feet above the eea ; then it makes a sharp elbow to avoid
the snowy Anmeh-machin range, bursts through the chains of the Kuen-
liln, and hurries on to China Proper.
From the sources of the Hoang-ho, Prejovalsky continued southwards
to the Blue river, the Bi-chu of the Tangutans, passing over a hilly
plain, for the moet part covered with tusaocky marshes overgrown with
stiff wiry grass. He crossed the waterparting between the two great
rivers of China at a height of 14,500 feet, and on entering the basin of
the Bi-chu cAme to a very different countrj% alpine in its character, but
without forests, possessing, however, a rich and varied herbaceous flora*
Here be met with a tribe of nomads called Kaniy* who received him in
an unfriendly, tbongh not actually hostile way. After 67 miles of
difficult marching, he reached the banks of the Blue river, flowing at
a height of 12,700 feet, hemmed in by mountains, with a muddy, rapid
stream of great depth. Finding it impossible to cross with his camels,
he retraced his steps to the lakes at the sources of the Hoang-ho, which
he explored and named.f Xear this he was attacked by a band of 300
mounted Tangutau robbers, but succeeded in dispersing tliem, and made
good his retreat down to Tsaidam, which in spite of its unattractive
appearance, seemed a well-favoured land after his experiences in Northern
Tibet. Hence he marched to the west along a wide valley stretching
for 150 miles between the Chamen-tagb on the north ani the Kuen-
lun on the south, and rising gradually from 9000 feet at 6az to
14,000 feet at its western extremity, where it is closed by a range, con-
necting tho Euen-lun with the Altyn-taghp This valley is situate in
the direction of the prevailing westerly winds, and is constantly swept
by them. Hence Prejevalsky gave it the appropriate name of " Valley
of the Winds.** The descent from it to Cherchen in the Tarim basin
is very easy, so that in all probability it was the highway in ancient
times between Kboten and China. Tho Kuen-lun was found to cul-
minate in the snowy group of jing-ri, in meridian 90^, with 20,000 feet
of absolute elovationj forming the centre of chains to the east and
west, to %vhich Prejevalsky gave the following names : — -*' Marco Polo,"
'* Columbus," " Mosco," with its peak •* Kremlin," 20,000 feet, and •' Con-
jectural," with its rounded summit ** Shapka Monomakh" (Cap of
* Kam, or KbDm, is the name of tlie provitiro of Eftstorn Tiljet. Nain Siogli cam©
flcpoaa a predatory tribe named *' Kbatupa," who bad originally come from tb© cc»mitry
north-east of Lbasa. Cf* Journal R.G.B., toL xlvii. pp- "^5 set^q,^ 102.
t ^ Bufiniau" and '^ Expeditioo " lake, hut aee autey where tbo uative names are taken
from hh own map.
IN CEyrRAL ASU. 329
Mononiacinis), Between the Moeoo and Conjectnnd ranges lies an
exccjauielj salt lake, free from ice in the coldest weather, and named
hj PrejeTalskj ** The Unfinasen," having a circnmfei^nce of about
36 miles, with a width of only seven.
Having retained to his depot at Gaz, Prejevalsky started for Lob-
nor, distant 168 miles, across an absolutely unexplored plateau. In
revisiting Lob-nor, he verified his previous observations, clearing up
doobts expiessed by geographers as to whether the waterspread seen by
him were the tme Lob-nor or only an expansion of the Tarim before
readiing its final discharge. He concluded that Lob-nor is a reedy lake
of no great depth surrounded by flat shores, the haunt of prodigious
numbers of waterfowl, and inhabited by a few hundred human beings,
whose halHts, tenements, and mode of life resemble thoee of the primitive
lake dweDers.
Frejevalsky's farther journey lay along the southern border of
Eastern Turkistan. He visited the oases of Cherchen, Eiria, Nia, and
Khoten, heard of the buried cities which flourished 3000 years ago and
are now almost obliterated by the moving sands, saw more snowy peaks,
and made a short incursion into the Kuen-lun, but being opposed by
the Ghineae, could not proceed to any great distance.
Note.
With leferenoe to the last part of his joarney General Prejevalskj has been good
enoogh to communicate the following particalara to me by letter.
1. Changes in existing maps,
(a) The Khoten river makes no bend to the west bat has a nearly meridionid
oomae from south to north (our iUaerary from Khoten to the oonfluence of the
Kboten-daria with the Tarim measures 327 miles).
Q}) There is no such lake as Yashil-^ul, nor any lakes along the course of the
Khoten-daria.
(c) Thirty miles below the fork of the Eara-kash and Khoten rivers, a low, narrow,
and absolutely barren ridge, having an apparent elevation of only 500 feet, stretches
frcHn fortMaiml-bashi in this direction (Le. towards the Khoten-daria).
2. More Details.
Forty-three miles below Khoten, following the Khoten^aria, otherwise known as
the Yunm-kaah, lies the oasis of Tavek-k^, inhabited by about 500 families, not
marked on any map. According to native information the population of the Khoten
oasis (including Khoten, Kara-kash and Sam-pul) numbers 600,000.
In September the Khoten river is an insignificant stream, 70 to 100 feet wide
and 6 inches to a foot in depth. After a devious course of 17 miles below Mazar.
tagh ridge it dries up, only leaving pools here and there' along its sandy bed. In
summer, however, there is an abundance of water and the river then reaches the
Tarim.
On either side of the Khoten river are drift sands the whole way from Khoten to
the Tarim. The valley of the former river is about three miles wide and indistinctly
defined ; on the lower river there are no inhabitant&
No. IV.— Apbil 1887.] s
280
PREJEVALSKTS JOURNEYS AND DISCOVEEIES
The flora and fauna here are extremely poor \ Khoten has aa elevation of 4100
feet, aod the confluence of the Khoten river with the Tarim 2800 feet, 12 miles
below the junction of the Yarkand and Aksu darias. Here the Tarim has a width of
about 200 yards at low water, and a depth of not less than five teet. The whole of
the Tarim in navigable for small river steamers from the confluence of its upper
waters to Lob-nor. The first irahabited parts of the Aksu oasis occur on the left bank
of its river, 18 miles from the ford across the Tarim coming from Khoten. And it
is exactly ^^ miles farther to the to^n of Aksu, The Ak^u oasis has a population
of 56,000 families, according to cative information, and ia the most fertile part of
Kashgaria.
After the jmper,
Mr. H, H, Ho WORTH, m.p,, said he had sj^ent many years hv wandering
over the terrihly dry and arid history of the districts described in the ffapcr. It
was early in the thirteenth century when Jinghis Khan, the greatest of all Asiatic
conquerors, and probably the greatest man the Asiatic world ever produced, set out
to conquer the country described in the paper, then known as Tangut, and spent
four summers in laying it waste. His victims were numbered by millions, and it is
difficult to understand how it could have been so ]x>pulous, unless its physical oon-
ditiona have greatly altered. Jiughis Khau made himself master of all the
Turkish tribes which then occupied Central Asia, and then made his famous
expedition to the west, making the valley of the Black Irtish, so graphically
described in the i>apor, the rendezvous of his trooi>3. At the other end of the
district described in the paper is the great bend of the Yellow river enclosing the
country of the Mongol tribe called Ortus or Ordus, so called from their having been
the guards and guardians of the Ordu, or special encampment and household of
Jinghis Khan. On his death they were entrusted with the care of his tent and his
body. Only three or four years ago the great French naturalist P^re David made
an expedition into their country, and found that they were in possession of a
silver box in which they said they had the bones of Jinghis Khan. When
Jinghis Khan had conquered the whole of zlsia he performed one of tho greatest
feats in connection with the movement of human races that was ever known : he
shifted the whole of the tribes of Central Asia very far to the west. When he died
he left the Mongols in charge of tho district still called Mongolia, which had pre-
viously been largely occupied by Turks, and it was very singular that one of these
Turkish tribes with which he was specially in contact, called Kirais, was still found
north of the Tliian Shan. This was the same tribe that was mled by Prester
John. Some of the Kimis were transplanted into the Usbeg country, at the same
time the Turkish people who occupied the whole district south of the Thian Shan
was pushed very much to the south, so that along the boniers of Tibet there
were still the descendants of the Buddhist Turks who lived in that district when
the Chinese pilgrims jessed that way, and who were mentioned by Marco
Polo. The Tibetans call them Horpa. When in 1368 the Chinese drove the
Mongols out of China a certain number took refuge in the valleys of Tsaidam,
&c. Another migration took pbce in the beginning of the seventeenth century
when a large number of the Kalmuks were induced to migrate down to Lob-
nor. In tho last century, when the great struggle took place between tho civil
and religious powers in Tibet, the Dalai Lama was so hard pressed that lie sent
for these Kalmuks to help him, and it wag with their assistance that he drove
out tho civil authorities. He had been much struck with one of the pictures
shown lo the meeting of a most desolate part of tho desert which was known among
the Mongols in the fourteeuth century as the " Pield of White Eoues,*^ which waa an
■
IS CENTRAL ASIA.— DISCOSSrON.
sii
cxtTemelj expreasive descriptioa of tbo terrible ws^te. With regard to the other
cod of the diatriot, to which Prejevalsky lad referred, he might mention that in tbo
S«ri«8 lakes and aUo m some of the early megalithic remflicB in Brittauy were found
some little axes TOode of jade, and German geologists were convinced that they conld
only hare come from the valley of Khoten. No jade was found in Swxteerland,
ifDcl if it were, there was nothing there to triturate and grind it down so as to make
polished axes with. It was exceedingly likely that these small jade axes were
brought from Central Aeia- All through medieval times those small axes wore in
use among the Turkish tribes.
The Chairman (General K. Strachey) said he was prohahly one of the very few
tjettons present who had ftctnally been in Tiliet, though he had not been very far into
Tt« It was now thirty years since he was there, but he saw enough of it to get a moro
vivid idea of the nature of the country than it waa possible to obtain without an
aclnal visit to it. He looked forward with great interest to the full narration by
General Prejcvalsky of his latest journeys in the northern part of Tibet, Tho
aocount thai Mr. Morgan had given, combined with what had been learned from
the native Indian explorers who went into the country under the Indian Survey
BefMrttnent, interested him greatly » and he was quite satisfied that what may be
regarded as Tibet proper certainly extended as far as the great range, which w^as
marked on the map as the Kuen-ldn, and where travellers from the north llr&t came
tipon very liigh mountains and an arid country. The region to the north of this
range appeared to be altogether different in its character from Tibet proper. It had
been visited by General Prejevalsky and was described by A— k, who was there for
several months, and his description gave a fair impression of what the coontry was
like. The j>eople cultivated wheat, and A — k found there what he was pleaxed to
call ft forest, but what was in fact a thicket formed of baehes six or seven feet high,
and that was altogether in excess of any arboreous vegetation to be found in Tibet
proper. To some extent the climate also seemed to have changed* In Tibet there wens
commonly strong westerly winds, but A — k*s account was that the prevailing winds
of the district to the north of the Kiieu-ldn were easterly or north-easterly. The
country, too, was sjene rally speaking sandy with rounded hills, and without the steep
rocky mountains found in Tibet. Although Mr. Morgan had spoken of luxuriant
'Viegitation, he ventured to think it was very different from what was oonsidered
Inxitnant vegetation in any other part of the world. Enormous crowds of animal
life had been mentioned, but he entirely disbelieved anything of the sort. When
a traveller was wandering over a stony desert the appcamnce of a comparatively few
wild animals would no doubt engage attention, but ho altogether doubted that there
wat any large amount of animal life there. Mr. Morgan had roferred to the province
of Kansii, and stated that there, there was really fiuo vegetation. Ko doubt the in-
^uence of the niiii*bearing winds from tho Pacific was felt there; but Til>et proper,
60 Jar as ft had any rain or moisture at all, was under the inGuence of the winds that
came up from the Bay of Bengal. Mr. Howorth's remarka regarding the transfer of
the population in the time of Jcnghis Khan wero citromely interesting, but he
doubted if any such change of climate had taken place since Jenghis Khan made his
expeditions, as Mr. Howorth appeared to suggest. 80 far as India was concerned
he did not think there bad been any oonsiderable change of climate within the
historical period; but he quite admitted that there was evidence of great changes
ance the surface had taken its present form. He remembered Sir Oeiry Rawlioson
and his brother Canon Rawlinson giving them most interesting statements regarding
the changes of climate that must have taken place in the country about the lower
part of the Oxus ; but ho did not think that similar changes had taken place in
northern India. Whether they had occurred in the Mongolian plain was a matter
s2
232
PREJEVALSKT'S JOUBNEYS, LTC.— DISCUSSIOK.
well worthy of itiveatigation. It would be iotereBtiag to the Fellows present to be
informed that at the present time sn Enghfth traveller was still in those countries.
Mr. Carey, a gentleman belonging to the Indian Civil Service, had been there for the
last two years. Ha left India in May 1885, struck northward, and descended Into
the plaine of Turkistan near Khoton* His iilan was successfully carried out during
Au^uflt and Seplemher 1885, and resulted in more than 300 miles of country being
traversed which had never before been visited by a European of any nationality.
The altitudes on this section of the journey were always very great, the track being
de«cribed as runninc; usually at about 14^000 feet above the sea, while one, at least,
of the passes crossed waa calculated to reach 19,000 feet. In desceQding from, the
Tibetan highlands towards Kiria, an extremely difScult defile bad to be passed,
where five (lays were taken up in making good a distance of 28 miles. A short
stay was made at Kiria, and a somewhat longer one at Kboten, where General
Prejevalsky's party was camped on Mr. Carey's arrival. The two explorers,
however, did not meet, the former being then just on the point of starting for Aksu
and RoBsiaa territory, while the latter had to fit himself out with a new caravan of
camels for crossing the desert of Kucbar. From Kucbar he made a freah start,
when the Tarim was followed down to a i)oint where it turns southward towards
Lake LoK Thua the whole length of the Tarim had been explored. The country
along its course was described as flat and reedy, and the people extremely poor and
miserable ; at the villages near Lob, fodtler waa so deficient that Mr, Carey had to
pitch his standing camp for the latter part of the winter (about February to April)
at a village called Cbaklik, some distance south of the lake, and close to tbe foot of
the great range of mountains which forma the northern scarp of the Tibetan high-
lands. This long halt was utilised in preparing for a journey southward into Tibet
as soon as the season should permit ; and it happened eventually that a new depar-
ture was made on the 30th April, 1886. The last that was heard of Mr. Carey
appeared to have been in May last year, and it was to be hoped that before very long
some more intelligence would be received from him. They were indebted to
Mr. Ney Elias for this account of Mr. Carey*8 proceedings, and it was to be regretted
that Mr. Elias was unable to be present at the meeting to throw some furtlier light
upon that country of which he probably knew more than any other EnglisliniaD-
Mr. E> Delmab MoitUAN, in reply, said that Prejevalsky had dealt at aome
length with the question of the violent winds, which he attributed partly to local
causes. Prejevalsky gave full details of the extraordinary numbers of wild animals,
•stating that he Baw them not only on his last but also on his previous journey. It
was owing to the presence of these vast numbers of animals that travellers were able
to cross the high plateaux of Northern Tibet, their dung being the only fuel to be
found there, and he believed that A — k also referred to the subject. When winter
commenced with its usual severity large herds were observed by the traveller
imigratiog to lower and warmer regions in the sonth-^st. The conditions of life in
Northern Tibet are, moreover, exceptionally favourable to them : Ist, their im-
munity from persecution by man; 2nd, the unlimited range over which they are
distributed ; and lastly, the absence at these high altitudes of the insects that
torment them in the plains below. In summer there waa sufScient humidity to
fiupi ort such scanty vegetation as Tibet afforded ; at other seasons it wsa quite dry.
( 233 )
PotanirCs Journey in North-western China and Eastern Tibet.
Wk are indebted to M. Veniukoff for the following abstract* of
M. Potanin's lecture, delivered before the East Siberian Section of the
Enssian Geographical Society, on his travels in China, at Irkutsk, in
December 1886.
Potanin's expedition started from Peking in 1884, with the intention
of crossing the desert of Ordo8(Ortu8) to Lang-chan, capital of Kan-snh,
and penetrating thence as far south as possible. The X)art7 started on
Uie 13th May for Eukn-khoto (or Kwei-hwa-cheng), passing over the
triple chain of mountains dividing the plain of Peking from that on
which Euku-khoto is situate. The southernmost of these three ridges
bears the Chinese name of U-tai-shan, *' the mountain of five sacrificial
altars,*' after the group of five peaks, the highest of which is 10,000 feet
above the sea, a height not exceeded by any mountain in Northern China.
At its southern foot lies a valley remarkable for its Buddhist monas-
teries and shrines, one of which, '* Shing-tung-tze," is entirely made of
brass, whence its name.
Euku-khoto is the depdt for the Mongolian trade with China. It
contains 200 tea-shops, five theatres, 15 temples, and six Mongol
monasteries. Among its sights are the Buddhist convent of Utassa
with its five pinnacles and bas-reliefs, the convent of Fing-sung-si, and
a temple containing a statue erected in honour of the Chinese general
Pai-jin-jung, who avenged an insult ofiered to the Emperor of China.
Leaving Euku-khoto the expedition crossed the Yellow river and
entered the sand- wastes of Ordo8.t The Mongols of Ordos are ranged
under BbyetLX'koshung9 or banners under seven princes, the chief authority
being vested in one who has the longest family tree and bears the title of
*' Wang." Their holiest place is a collection of felt tents called *' Edjen-
joro," reputed to contain the bones of Jenghiz Ehan. These sacred
relics are entrusted to the care of a caste of Darhats numbering
some fifty families. Every summer, on the twenty-first day of the
sixth moon, sacrifices are ofiered up in his honour, when numbers of
people congregate to join in the celebration, such gatherings being
called t6Ugan.
On the southern border of Ordos are the ruins of Borobalgassun,
said to date from Jenghiz Ehan's time. From this place the expedition
went to Lang-chau, in the valley of the Yellow river, surrounded by
fruit gardens which continue along the river for about 40 miles. To
the south lie hills covered with thick deposits of loess, and the river
cuts its way through these, forming a narrow gorge. Many of the
* TraiiBlated by Bfr. E. D. Morgan.
t Fully described by Prejevaldky in his irork * Mongolia,' ftc, toL i. pp. 180-195
€tpa»9iin,
X PrejeTaUky says six, and gives their names. Cf. * Mongolia,* d:c., vol. i. p. 144.
234 POTANrN*S JOURNEY IN NORTH-WESTEEN CHINA AND EASTERN TIBET,
inliabitants live in artificially constructed caves, probably since tbe
Mahommedan insurrection which destroyed so many villages and towns,
and laid waste the coEntry.
M, Potanin, who was accompanied by his wife, visited the territory
of the Salars,* a Turkish tribe, which has preserved its written and
spoken language almost unaltered. This jtribe inbabits twenty-four
villages near Siun-hwa-ting, on the south bank of the Yellow river.
iVnothcr in teres ling people visited by the travellers were the Amdos
Mongols, identical with the "Taldi** or "Daldes" of Prejevalfiky,t
scattered over a tract lying between the meridians of Lang-chau and
Suh-chau, and partly engaged in agriculture and horticulture. Their
language is a mixture of Mongolian, Turkish, and Chinese words ; their
houses, food, and dress are Chinese, while the costume of their M'X)men^
especially their head-dress, is peculiar. The Amdos are governed by
elders, whose office is hereditary, and who trace their descent from a
half historical, half legendary prince, Li-ching-wang, whose tomb ia
shown on the bank of the Sining-gol near Shangnlang. Some of the
Amdoe profess Islam, others retain Lamaism.
Potanin and his travelling companion Skassi liad an audience of the
governor of Si-ning, who gave them a free pass for Eastern Tibet.
During a part of their journey they had an escort of twenty Tangutan
or Tibetan soldiers officered by a monk.
From Si-ning the travellers set out for Mlng-chau, passed over
so-called iantjg or high plateaux (about 10,000 feet), thickly clothed
with herbaceous vegetation. To the west of their road rose two snowy
g^ups of mountains — Amni {-jakar and Amni-tungling. The town of
Gui-dui on the Yellow river, the fortress of Bounan, and the monas-
teries of Labrang and Joni were successively visited. At Labrang they
were received with much ceremony by the chief Lama or ge^en, who,
besides his spiritual functions, exercised temporal swa3* over the district
and had a military force at his command. Joni is the residence of a
Tangutan prince named Joni-bombu,
From Ming-chau the expedition turned southward, but were pre-
vented from penetrating farther than Sung-pang-ting, their supplies
having come to an end. The country between Ming-chau and Sung-pang*
ting is described as a labyrinth of steep ranges of mountains and deep
valleys, where the views, even from the summits of the passes, are too
limited to enable the observer to form any clear idea of the general direction
of the ridgee and valle3rB* The scenery, however, offers many points of
interest. Biver torrents, cascadea, and natural terraces lend a charming
variety to the landscape, while the roads, only passable for pack animals,
here clinging to the rocky steeps, or cut into the rock itself, there
• Ct ■ Mongolia,* &c^ voU iL p, 149.
t Ct ^MoogoliA,' Ac Tol. a pp. G9 M^, and 299 9eq,
t Or ** Amneb,'* Le. ** ancestors,** held vcred by the TsngataiiE: cC 'Mongolia,*
Ac*, Tol iL p. 76,
I
A JOCRSET DC SOKTHESS ASD EASTEBX IIAKCHUSU.
sopported on irooden props, or carried acron the stream on rid^etj bob-
pension bridges wbich rock to and fro under the laden mnle, remind the
traveller of the wild alpine country he has entered. Bains too were
freqnenty for the Chinese monsoons deposit their moisture on these
ranges and call into existence a Inxnriant vegetation. The hiUs from
top to bottom were denselj forested with conifers in the npper zone,
deciduous trees and bnshes on the lower slopes. Here were observed
three kinds of maple, the lime, the hazel, a prickly-leaved oak like
the ikx with fruit branches like the strings of copper coins current
in the country, whence the CSiinese caU it the ** money-tree." Here
too amidst the undergrowth were the tall stems of the bamboo and
several sub-tropical ferns. Maize is cultivated in the deeper vaDeys,
and round the villages a sheaf-like variety of bamboo, DUmpfnm
KaM,^ yidding a frnit, the m-i»si ; the soap-tree, the varnish-tree, palms
(CftoHeropt), and bananas The deciduous woods of the upper belts at a
hei^t of 9000 feet were fringed with bushes of rhododendron of two <»-
three kinds, one of arborescent growth, with a trunk eight inches in
diameter. In the alpine zone above the limit of the forests, four kinds of
poppy were observed, <me yellow (Cdikcatiia %mlegrifoUd)j two blue, and
one red*
Sung-pang is an important trade centre, and lies on the road taken faj
the tea caravans, passing from Szechuen to Northern Tibet. Thj&Js one
of the three main roads to Lhasa followed by the pilgrims frcnn China
and Mongolia. The environs of Sung-pang are funous for their monas-
teries or •* bonbo," the objects of veneratioai to tiie Tangutan population.
Thirteen miles nortii-east of Sung-pang is the snowy Siue-shan, at
whose foot flows a rivulet, theKsemtso, ** golden lake,** really a suceessicm
of small lakes divided by thin waDs of tufa, one above the other.
From Sung-pang the expediti<m returned to Lang-chau vii Lung-«n-
fu, Yen-hflien, Tse-chau, Hung-chang-fu, and Di-dao. They passed the
winter at the monastery of Kumbum, south of Si-ning, where tbey saw the
relies of the mother of Tsonkaba, the great Buddhist reformer, and the
miraculous tree described by Abbe Hue.
A Jomrmof tj» Noriken and Eastern MandiuricL
The * Proceedings' for Deoemb^ last t ccmtained an account of a jour-
ney undertaken by Messrs. James, Younghusband, and Fulfoid to the
Pei-shan Mountain and the sources of the SungarL Mr. James, one of
the party, informs us that the three traveUers have since continued
their explorations in Northern and Eastern Manchuria, and visited parts
* A spetitmcldMie plmn, Bometimes called tbe *^ Keg-fig " ; the French sweetmeatB
^gna-ooqmti are made from ita fruit
t ' PraewdiBga B.6.S,* ISSe, p. 779.
23$ A JOUUNEY IN NORTHEKN AND EASTERK MANCHURU. ^M
of tlie country wliich havo not been previously described. After a
tletentioii of three weets at Kirinj caused hy the prolonged rains, they
started on the 3rd September fur TsitBihar, the capital of North
Manchuria. Passing through Petunia, they croBSed the Sungari at its fl
junction with the Konni. The rivers were in flood, and the joint stream
was 10 miles across. The prairies also beyond were so much under
water that frequent diversions had to be made for the high road
described by the Archimandrite PaOadius.* Tsitsihar was reached
on the 20th September, and then the party turned to the south-east,
passing for 175 miles over a high undulating and perfectly uncnlti*
vated steppe. Large flocks of geese, of which there were three
varieties , the large bustard, and a species of black crane, too shy for
a specimen to be secured, were comnjon. The only other thing notice- S
able here was a rude but eiBcient system of manufacturing soda and "
a salt, called mien-tm. The earth containing the salt is gathered
from the edges of brackish lakes, mixed in large tanks with water,
and then the impregnated liquid is drawn oE and boiled in iron
cauldrons, at the bottom of which the soda collects in a solid cup-shaped H
mass, 9 to 12 inches thick. The other salt is ladled out liquid, and
pressed into briuks. The process is identical with that used for the
production of saltpotro in Sind, and borax in Ladakh, fl
Near the edge of the steppe the flourishing town of llulan, on the
banks of the Hulan river, 8 or 10 miles from the Sungari was reached.
The modem town of Pe-tun-lin-tzu, 55 railcs to the north-east was the
next visited, and then Pa-yen -shu^shu, 55 miles to the south-east of
Pe-ttm-lin-tzu, Each of these towns contains upwards of 25,000 inha-
bitants, and increases in size rapidly, as the country around, which
is very fertile, is being widely cultivated, and colonists arrive eveiy
winter in largo numbers from the south.
The whole of Mfinchuria is noted for brigands, but this neighbourhood M
literally swarms with them* One everjiog at dusk the party met with a H
party of five, armed with foreign guns. But it is considered unlucky to
meddle with "foreign devils,** particularly as these, for purposes of
sport, always carried their guns ready, so the party was not molested.
The banditti make their hiding-places in the hills to the north, and the
officials are so corrupt and incompetent, and tho Manchu soldiers are
so cowarJlj') that in spite of constant and wholesale executions the pest
still flourished. Anyone who makes a little money is liable to have his
house plundered, or to be kidnapped and taken oW to the hills, and then,
if an exorbitant ransom is not paid, his head is sent back without fail to
his friends, jjo Mr encoura^jer les an t res. Not nmch more than a year ago
a large body attacked Pe-tun-lin-tEu, with the connivance of the local
military Mandarin, and another flourishing village, called Hsian-shih-ho,
was looted twice in the same year.
• 'Journal B-G.S.,' vol rlil p, 142.
A J0C7RKET IX NORTHERN AKD EASTERN MAKCHURU. 237
The Solon Tartan also, who live by hantiDg in the hills, are wild
saTages. While the party was at Holan, four Chinese arriyed, the last
of a party of thirteen, who had gone to the hills to collect medicinal
loots, and were masBacred for the sake of their carts and baggage. No
attempt at retribution would, it was said, be made bj the officials.
The principal places of business in the tract are the distilleries, as,
although the grain is Tcry cheap, communications are so bad, that even
when floods make almost a famine in Liao-tung, as is often the case, it
does not paj to export it south, except in the form of liquor. These
distilleries, and indeed all important places of business, whether inside
towns or out, are strongly fortified with lofty walls, flanking towers,
inm-plated gates, and sometimes even, with small cannon ; convoys of
carts travel around with gingalls, matchlocks, and spears, unless they
have first paid blackmail to the brigands, and even foot-passengera
carry weapons of some kind. Three French missionaries reside in this
out-of-the-way region. They have discovered that excellent claret and
brandy may be made out of the wild grapes of the country.
From F^yen-shu-ehu the road followed the left bank of the Sungari
as far as San-seng, below which town the Chinese have built a fort,
aimed with Erupp guns, to guard the approach up the river. From
San-seng, which is not a very flourishing place, the party turned south,
up the valley of the Hurka or Mutan-chiang, along a tract constructed a
few years back, and said to be passable for carts. It proved barely so.
It crosses an everlasting series of very steep ridges running down to
the edge of the right bank, with difficult swamps between, and though
the worst parts had been roughly bridged or causewayed, so much is it
out of repair that until the frost came it was very difficult to get the
carts through, and the gradients of the hills were so severe that many
accidents happened.
Along the Hurka and its tributaries, the capture was seen of entire
shoals of salmon coming up to spawn, the fish being intercepted by
weirs of wickerwork, and then pulled out of the water as fast as the
gaff could be thrust into them, so that hundreds were collected at a
time. San-seng was left on the 16th October, and after passing a canton-
ment called Teh-ho, which guards the road leading to Lake Hinka and
the settlement of Nikokk, Ninguta was reached on the 26th. This
neighbourhood is veiy well cultivated. The road further south was
found not to be so difficult, and Hunchun, a large cantonment in the
south-east comer of Manchuria, was made on the 6th November. From
there the travellers visited the Bussian outpost on the frontier, as well
as the station of Novaviyeek, in Possiet Harbour, meeting with a most
cordial reception from the colonel in oommand and the other Bussian
officers. From San-seng onwards the country swarmed with pheasants in
incredible numbers, and black-game was also met with in large flocks,
very tame, packing together in willow trees, like hens in a barn. The
238
A JOURNEY 3N NORTHERN AND EASTERN MANCHURIA,
mountain deer or fau-tzu was aleo oommon. From Hnnchiin the party
divided. One of the numbor went with a convoy of mules by a short
cut across the hills to Eirin. This route follows a river YarlouBly called
the We-tzu-ho, the Yang-tzu-kang-ho, and other Barnes, from places on
its banks, and it falls into the Kaya-ho shortly before the river joins
the Tumen, The raule-track, which is also used by carta in winter, con-
tinues along this stream up to its very source, and then crt^sses the
watershed between the Tumen and Htirka valleys by the Hu-la-pa-ling
pass. It then follows the Sha-ho, a tributary of the Hurka» crosses the
Hurka itself at a place called San-cliia-tzu, not far from Autuo (which is
erroneously shown in tho maps on the Tumcn side of the watershed), and
ascends another tributary, the ChuH^rk-tao-ho as far as Omoso, on the
Imperial high road from Ninguta to Kirin, After crossing the Chang-
tsai-ling, it quits the main ro^d again near a mountain called La-bu-la-
tzu, and crosses a further range called Hai-ching-ling, south of the
Lau-yeh-lmg, one which the high road passes. Kirin was reached by
this route on the 24th November, and the rest of tho party travelling
in Ninguta arrived on the 26th. The next place to be visited was the
large commercial city of Kwan-chang-tzu, containing probably 100,000
inhabitants, and there the party turned south, travelling first to Mukden
and then to Yingtstu, the port of Nowchwang which they reached on the
20th I>ecember, just seven months from the day they started. Fortu-
nately tho weather was unusually mild and little snow fell* The
greatest cold felt was — 20^ Eeaumur (—13^ Fahrenheit), whil&
occasionally north of the Sungari it falls to — 45^ Centigrade (— 49*^
Fahrenheit). Travelling was therefore easy. At Yingtzu the ]>arty
separated. Mr. James went south, travel sing the whole of the Liao-
tung promontory as far as Lu-shuan-kou or Port Arthur* On the road
he visited several interesting Korean remains, and about twenty miles
from tho port of Ta-chiang-ho he ascended to a picturesquely situated
cave, near the top of a fine precipitous mountain, inhabited by Buddhist
priests, who hay© built some temples inside. These ancient ediBoes
ofi'er a strong contrast to tho forts, great Krupp guns, torpedoes, sub-
marine mines, and other modern appliances for defence with which
Port Arthur briatles. From there Mr, James passed by a transport to
Chefoo, and he has since left China for America. Mr. Younghusband
and Mr. Fulford took tho Imperial high road vi4 Shan-hai-kuau for
Tientsin, to finish their vacation in Peking. The whole journey has
extended over more than 3000 mileSt Almost without exception the
people were found civil and obliging ; but excluding Liao-tung and the
Chang-pei-shan hills, whore strong guilds exist, brigandage certainly is
the curse of the country ; putting on one side the tract d"'^*» *^^
Sungari, which has already been described. Twice, pari
were met on their m*ay to trial and execution ; tho ^
traveller was seen on the high road coming fror
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
239
N
»
^
I aent to the a^ast for lettors waa stopped hj a band wMch plundered
some carts immediately behind him, and while the party were at Mukden
the news amved of the blockading of upwards of a hundred robbers in
a caTB on the road to Kirin, The Manchu military-civil administration
is certainly effete, and it is time it j^ave place to Chinese, The Manchu
Tartars themselves are fast losing their own language, spoken and
written, for Chinese, and the substitution of extremely complicated hiero-
glyphics for a simple alphabet, forma a case of national retrogression
without parallel in modem times. They are demoralised by petting and
idleness ; for every man belonging, as it would be called in India, to the
Imperial caste, and who can draw the bow, receives two ttiels a month,
and land rent-free, in return for a training in the militia twice a year.
Am the Emperors no longer visit the cradle of their dynasty, it is
time a Chinese reformer were sent to the province with power to mak*:^
a clean sweep of all existing Manchu officials and institutions, Tht;
country is extremely rich in gold, silver, iron, coal, furs, silk, and
opium, the cultivation of which last has greatly increased, and the
dru^ IB now exported to all parts of China. All it requires is good
government and security to life and propert3^
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
I
Geography at Oxford. — We call attention to the announcement made
by General Strachey, at the Evening Meeting of the 28th Februar^^, to
the effect that the Council had been officially informed that the University
of Oxford had decided to establish a Readership of Geography for 0ve
years. Thus, as General Strachey stated, the aspirationB of the Society,
as regards Oxford, have been realised.
Further Explorations of the Tributaries of the Congo by Mr.
Orenfell. — The indefatigable explorer, Mr. George GrenfeD, has juet
added a sucoeesful ascent of the great Quango tributary of the Congo to
bis previous achievements of the like nature. In company Avith Mr.
Bentley, in th© Baptist Missionary steamer Feae.e, he succeeded in
reftching the Kiknnji Falls, the point at which Major von Mechow,
descending the Quango from the south, was obliged to turn back in
1880* About six miles above the junction of the Kasai with the Quango
they found another lEwg© tributary, the Djuma, entering the river from
the eaet, which presented so large a volume of water, that it was a
ma^er of uncertainty which was the larger stream. A little beyond
this, the course of the Quango veered round, first S.S.W, and then west ;
at 4'^ 30' S» lat. it had come back to its usual southerly course, and
maintained it for the remainder of the journey- The Kikunji Falls
(5'"^ 8' 8- lat.) are about three feet high, and though insurmountable to
the Peacc^ are said by Mr. GrenfeU to be no ol>stacle to communication
2i0 GEOGRAPHICAL KOTES.
by canoes arid small eraft.— Mr. Grenftsll expects to 1>o in England
in May*
The Gambia and Sierra Leone. — In a newly-issued Colonial Office
Report on the Gambia, by Mr. G. T. Carter, the Acting AdmiDLstrator,
there are some fresh data on the climate of that colony, which tend
greatly to modify previously accepted notion &, based on imperfect
observations. Theae tend to show that Ihe temperatures hitherto
accepted are much too high ; the mean temperatures for 1885 were, in
Jannarj% at 7 a;m* 68 * 5^, and at noon 73 • 7^ ; in July, at 7 a.m. 80^j and
at noon 82 ' 5"^. There are also in the report a few notes on the ethnolog;^^
of the colony. A Colonial Oifico Eeport on Sierra Leone, with map,
contains mnch information regarding the difiFerent districta and tribes of
that colony and its vicinity.
Haeent French H^editioiis in the interior of Senegal— A commnni-
c-ation, dated 17th December, 1886, from Senudebn, on the Upp«r Niger,
has b^en received by the Geographical Society of Paris, which gives some
account of the intended operations of the French, tinder Colonel Gallieni,
in that region, whicht it is believed, will lead to geographical results of
great importance* In consequence of the threatening attitude of the
Marabout Mahmadu Lamine, who was encamped in the neighbourhood
of Diana, two columns had boon formed to proceed against bim ; one,
starting from the confluence of the Faleme and the Senegal, was to
march direct upon Diana via Senedubu ; the other, traversing the
district of Bambuk, was to cross the Faleme near the village of Jabusire,
and by this circuitous route approEich the same objective from the south.
One or two ofiBcers specially charged with topographical work^ were
attached to each column. The country to be traversed is not known,
and the existing maps are all at fault regarding it« With the view of
establishing more amicable relations with Almany Samory to the east,
the Uassulu mission had been ordered to visit that sovereign, with
instructions to survey all the country along the right bank of the
Niger, and returning up the Tankisso, to connect its surveys with those
of the other two detachments. Further, Dr. Tautain, the companion
of GalUeni on hie journey to Bcgu, and Lieutenant Quiquandou had
been charged to explore the Great Beledugu country, and to push
beyond Murdia and Segala to the north.
Dr. Len2. — The new number of the * Mittheilungon ' of the Vienna
Geographical Society contains the letters from Dr. Lenz, to which we
referred in the last number of the • Proceedings,' and which carry on the
narrative of his journey from Kasouge on the Upper Congo to the river
Shir^. These letters do not oontaiu much geographical information,
and no wonder, for Dr. Lenz had Ms hands full of trouble. Kasonge is
an extremely unhealthy place ; his companion Bohndorf was prostrated,
and had to be carried nearly the whole way ; small-pox broke out among
GSOGiLAPElCAL XOmS. 341
liis ttimTmn, mmnj of his men died, and othen had to be left behind, so
that he had little leisure or enei^ left for geographical work. Still
the letters contain srane interesting information, and donbtless we may
look far more in his complete narrative. He tells us that Tippoo Tip
went to Zanribar for the purpose of being invested by the Sultan with
authority to act as his representative in the Tanganyika regions. Of
covrBe, we know now that this mission was useless, as the Sultanas
authority extends only to 10 miles from the coast. Dr. Lenz left
Kasonge oa. June 30th, and traversing the plateau between that and
Lake Tanganyika, reached Mr. Here's station on Kavala Island on
August 7th. He found much of the route studded with recently founded
Zsnzibari villages established by the Arab traders, the natives having
been compelled to retreat into the forests and remote mountains. All these
Tillages are surrounded with fields of maize and durra, as well as with
maniooB, bananas, and oil-palms ; sheep, goats, and fowls are plentifuL
On the latter part of the journey, over a plateau 3000 to 4000 feet high,
were mountains rising to the same height, mainly composed of granite,
with occasional crystalline slates. After being hospitably entertained by
Mr. Hoie, Dr. Lenz arrived in Ujiji oo August 1 5th. Here, as already stated,
he resolved to abandon the attempt to proceed to Emin Pasha, and, at
considerable cost, hired a large boat, with which he proceeded to the
south end of Lake Tanganyika. He left on September 8th, and took eleven
days to reach Niomkolo, on the south shore, having called on the way at
Karema, now a Boman Catholic mission station. With reference to the
Lnknga river, which Mr. Stanley, in 1878, found had forced its way
through obstractions and flowed into the Congo, Dr. Lenz has some in-
teresting remarks. Mr. Hore informed him that the current is now ex-
ceedmgly strong, and that during his residence of several years on the
lake, he has observed the level of its water to have fallen 15 feet. Dr.
Lenz himself observed at several places old shore-lines. Niomkolo is a
most inhospitable district, and Dr. Lenz had to stay a fortnight before
he could get enough of men to take him two days' journey towards Lake
Nyassa. The villages, strongly fortified, are all at war with each other.
At Famba's strongly fortified village (Thomson's Mfumbo) Dr. Lenz
found himself on an important waterparting. The Seise goes north to
Lake Hikwa, and dose beside it rise two or three small streams, which
uniting with others to form the Chambese, flow to Lake Bangweolo, and
so may be regarded as the ultimate sources of the Congo. There was a
four days' march through an uninhabited district, with many mined vil-
lages. Further on, a large caravan of Arabs and Zanzibari was met with,
who had been selling ivory to the African Lakes Company. The region
consists mostlj of granite and crystalline slates ; the average height above
sea-level 5000 feet, with mountains rising some thousands of feet higher.
After passing the villages of Mpansa and Nimbo (? Vimbo) he came
on Stevenson's traces, and on October 15th reached the mission station
242 GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES,
near Miuia Wando (? Maliwanda )* Karon ga*8, on Lake Nyasaa (a station
of the Lakes Company), ^vas reaclietl on the 17tb* Henc© Dn Lonz
journeyed down the lake to the Shire river, from which his last letter
18 dated» December 1886.
Changes of the Coast-line in Northern Africa— Df, Theobald Fischer
contributeis an interesting paper to Petermann's *Mitteilungeii' (Nos, 1 and 2,
1887), in which he gives a detailed account of iheobservationsmadeby him atSieTGral
points on the north coast of Africa, His previous examination of the coasta of the
Mediterranean and ScaDdina\na led to hia iiodertakiDg tbis journey ia the spring of
1886, his special object bt'ing to Btudy on the spot the action of the Burf-wave
upon the Algerian and Tunisian coasts. In tbe course of his exj>editionj however, he
travelled over a considerable part of Algeria, viaiting Bona, Biskra, and Constantine,
He then traversed the "Shott^* district eastwards to the Gulf of Gabes. The obser-
vations made during this part of hie journey will add to the completion of our know-
ledge of the country. But it ie to his study of the coast-line that wc desire to draw
attentioQ. The coasts of Algeria and Tunis forcibly illustrate It ichtbo fen's theory as
to the formation of surfaces of ahnision and their important connection with changes
of the fibore-line. The information as to the atrengtii and direction of the wind,
necessary in dealing with the action of the sea upon the coast, Dr, Fischer obtained
from the carefully prepared tables of Mr, 0, M*Cartby, who has for some years
made this subject his special study. From tbe tables for the two years ending
April 1885 he found that tbe preTailing direction of the wind was uorth-^ast j in
tbe summer months, when its strength was greatest, tbe wind was almost inTariably
from that quarter. The coast of Algeria is subject to storms of great violence from
the north and north-east. Tbe traveller gives an account of tbe damage done by
one which occurred shortly before his arrival at Algiers. He confined his coast
studies principaOy;to four points : —
1. Tite Algerian Coast near Tipaza, — This bay, lying to the west of the town
of Algiers, may be, he says, regarded as entirely tbe result of the action of the eurf-
wave. Its western boundary, the promontory of Chenua, formed of hard uummu-
litic limestone, and its eastern boundary, Cape Sidi Ferruch, a spur of the mountains
of Algiers composed of granite and mica-slate, have withstood the onslaught of tbe
waves, though the shores exposed to the north-east are strewn with large pieces of
rock, testifying to the powers of the sea. The soft, miocene limestoue of Tipaaa has
given way rapidly before the sea, which has advanced to the limit of th^ hard
nummuUtic limestone. The action of the sea in forming the numerous small bays
along tbis part of tbe coast has been facilitated by the torrents, at the mouths of
which these bays are generally to be found.
2p The Coast in the viciniij/ of Algiern. — Here, on tbe western side of the bay,
where the coast is of hard slate, the sea has formed an abrasion surface of about
li mile in breadth. Cape Blatifu, bounding the bay on the east, is composed of
slate rich m quartz. Tho ravages of the sea are very apparent at Rusgnnia and
Riisubbicarri, where the coast, consisting of clay and marl, has given way about
650 yards. These towns, of which now scarcely anything remains, were founded
by Augustus, and in the middle ages were flourishing and possessed good harbours.
At tbe innermost part of tbe bay, however, the land has gained on tbe sea, especially
in the vicinity of the river Harrach, where^ in front of the chalk ridges, a fertile
plain half a mile broad extends some four miles each side of tbe mouth of tbe river.
Dr. Fischer concludes that tlie surface of abrasion has here reached such a breadth
that tbe surf-wave loses its power,
3. Tite Bay of Bmia, — The physical features of the bay aire described ia detail
«
GEOGRAPmCAI NOTES.
348
by the traveller, particularly Ihe dunes surrounding it, whick form a barrier to the
rivers fiawing into the sea, caosiog them In some iostances to How for several miles
parallel with the low hilk before fioding their natural exit« New land is being
formed here. The direction of the current from Cap© Bosa on the one side to Cape
de Garde on the other forces the mouths of all the rivera westward. This is very
notice-able in the case of the Mafragh and Seybuso, both of which are rich in
alluvial deposits. The efifect of this on the ahore-line is at once apparent, as the
east coast of the bay has nndergone practically no changie, whereas to the west
of the month of the Seyhuse the land has gained very considerably on the sea.
Br. Fischer refers at some length to the ancient town of Hippo.
4. The Guff of Tunis, — The traveller*a principal work here was in the delta of
the Medjerda, to which so many writers have drawn attention. He traces the
physical clianges which have taken place in the peninsula of Utica, and the rapid
formation of land within historical time through the exceptionally rich deposits of
the Medjerda. After careful ejamination. Dr. Fischer nnds that the Medjerda does
not flow into the Bay of Porto Farina, as indicated in tho French topograpluc^l map
of Tunis, recently puWiBhed, hut discharges directly into the aea. Occasionally in
winter (when the French sun^ey was made) the waters are very high, and an arm
of the river flows into the above-mentioned hay. An excellent little map, showing
the delta and ancient IkhI of the river, accompanies Dr. Fbcher^s paper. The Bay
of Tunis is gradually being closed up by the action of the ocean current and tho
furf-wave* It is only kept from being completely landlocked by the i»eriodicaL
overflowing of the Medjerda, Its size and depth are also being diminished by the
refnse of the city of Tunis, Dr. Fischer's description of the flora of all this district
will be found of interest. He comments on tho very general cultivation of the
date-palm, which is pknted close to the &ea-shore.
Dr» Hans Schinz in South-western Africa. — In the * Proceedings' for
1880, p. 65Q, we gave a brief account of the explorations of l>r. Schinz
in Sonth-weBtem Africa, The following intereating details are taken
from a private letter, Br. Schinz went out to Kama Land in 1884, on
behalf of Mr. Luderitz. Having explored the territories acquired by
this enterpriBing gentleman, and now passed into the posseiBsion of a
company, he turned to the northward, exploring the country as far as
the Knnene river, and to within a short distance of Lake Ngami, He
resided and travelled in Ovambo from August 1885 to February 188r>,
when a misunderstanding with the family of King Kambonde of
Ondonga, whose suspicions had been aroused by his scientific pursuits,
compelled him to seek safety in flight. The journey from the kings
residence to Groot Fontein (Otyavanda tyongue)^ the settlement of the
Boers, near the Otavi copper-mines, can be accomplished in summer in a
fortnight, but owing to the condition of the road Dr. Sohinz spent fully
six weeks over it. The soil was saturated with water, and the draught-
oxen frequently sunk into it up to their bellies, the day's progress
occasionally not exceeding a mile. Etosha Tan presented the ap-
pearance of a veritable lake. Tho Boors who have settled at Groot
Fontein under the leadership of Mr, Jordan received the traveller most
hoepitably* They had left Humpata in Mossamedes, owing to a disa-
greement with the Portuguese authorities, and established themselves
244 G£0€RAPHICAL NOTES.
withiu a territory ptircliased by their leai^ler from tlio Cliiof of Ondonga,
and constituted a Hepnblic named " Upingtonia/' in honour of the
Prime Minister of Cape Colony, This territory is bounded on the west
by the Etosha and Onandora Pans and etretcbes away eastward between
18° and 20^ of south latitude. Dr, Schinz describes it as a region well
adapted to agricultural pursuits. Abont one-fourth of it ie hill}^, and
apparently rich in minerale, while the remainder consists of uoduliiting
limestono plains (am ancient lake-bed) of great fertility. Perennial
springs are numerous, and the ample rains fall between November and
April. Malarial fevers prevail during that season, but they are not of
a vimlent typo. Horsea and cattle, however, aro subject to a lung
disease as in other parts of South Africa. Mr, Jordan has divided his
territory into farms of 6000 acres each, six of which, together with all
mining rights, ho reserved to himself^ handing the rest of the country
over to a ^* Bostuur," elected by the Boers. Settlera receive farms gratia
on condition of their beginning to cultivate them within a year from their
arrival.* Having procured a fresh team of oxen, Dr, Schinz trocked to the
eastward, following at first a spoor left by Mr. Erickson's waggon, and
then the dry bed of the Omuramba wa Mataka as far as Karakobis, where
that watercourse turns to the north-east and, aasaming the name of
Seshongo, joins the Okavango or Ombuengo, The country between
Karakobis and the Tonke (Tiogo) forme part of the Kalahari, and
presents a succession of dunes, covered with Bauhinias, Cassias, Com-
breti, and other di cotyledon on s trees, the intervening depressions being
occupied by acacias, Yleys are only met with at long intervals, and
game is the reverse of abundant. The few inhabitants are bushmen,
and speak a language distinct from that of the Nama, though apparently
allied to it. In May, Dr» Schinz arrived at Nokana, the residence of the
Batowana chief Moremi, who formerly lived on Lake Ngami, but who
in consequence of an incursion of the Matabeli has removed to the
swamps, thrco days' journey to the north-west of it. Tho immediate
neighbourhood of the lake has been abandoned to the Bakoba, the old
herdsmen of the Batowana. Dr. Schinz was not permitted to visit it.
He heard J however, that the lake has not dried up, although much
reduced in si^e. It is fed by numerous branches of the Okavango which
meander through the extensive swamps lying to the north of it. The
Batowana name of the lake is Ngabi or NagabL On his return to
Damara Land, Dn Schinz once more crossed the Kalahari. At Qhanze,
where Mr. Eobertson has built himself a stone bouse, he was able to
collect materials for a grammatical sketch and a vocabulary of the Ai-
San language. This journey through tho Kalahari was attended with
much hardship, and the traveller suffered greatly from fever and
* Id Judo 1886 Mr. Jordan was murdered, and the fiftoen families who bad settled
in '^Upingtoma'* have ainoe placed tliemselvcB under the protection of Germany.
OEOGIlAFinCAL NOTES.
245
dysentery. Embarking at Walvtsck Bay on November 16th, 188C, Dr.
ScMnz reached Capeto\m after a voyage of twenty-six days, and then
returned to Europe, Br, Schinz has aucceeded in making valuable
' botanical and ethBOgraphical collections, and is at present engaged in
preparing a full acconnt of his explorations.
New Guinea Expleration.^We are informed by the Eev. W. G.
Lawes, by letter from Port Moresby, Jiintiary 20tli, that an expedition ia
being equipped under the leadership of Mr. Vogan, the curator of the
Auckland Museum, with the intention of attempting as soon as the rainy
Iseaion was over, to cross South-eastern New Guinea from Freshwater
Bay to Hnon Gulf. A journey into the interior was made in August
last by Dr. Clarkson and Mr, G, Hunter, from Kapakapa, along the
depression between the Astrolabe and Macgillivray Coast Banges. The
tiemp- Welch river was crossed, but no addition of importance was made
}io our knowledge of the country.
MM, Capus and Bonvalot in Central Asia. — Some interesting details
concerning the recent unsuccessful attempt of these French traveUers to
penetrate to Balkb across the Afghan frontier, have been received by the
[Geographical Society of Paris in two letters, the latest dated 13th
January, 1887* Thoy started on the 13th September from Samarkand
for Bokhara, having rested at the former place sioce July,* The route
lay through the Takhta-Karacha pass to the village of Shahr-i-sabz, A
few miles south of Samarkand the plantations of General Korolkoff
connnence. By utilising the waters of the Kara-tepe and other streams
i considerable area of hitherto barren country has been within the space
of seven years brought under cultivation and covered with acacias,
mimosas, fruit-trees, &c. The pass of Takhta*Karacha, though not more
than 5500 feet high, is very difficult, especially on the south side where
the path is narrow and stony. Passing through Yakobag and Kalta-kul
the travellers ascended to the Ahugah pass, known also under the name
of Lahore Murda, the top of which Is at an elevation of 15,58G feet. The
descent into the valley of the Sanguirdak was toilsome, down a slope of
45% the path running zigzag over stones and rubbish. The Sangardak,
one of the affluents of the Surkhan, is a rapid torrent rushing through a
wild narrow gorge. All tMs district was covered by the " KisMaks "
or winter villages of the Uzbegs, Tajiks, and other tribes. A magnifi-
cent cascade, a rare thing in Centxal Asia, was found at Baghcha. The
valley gradually broadens as the mountains open out, until the plain of
ar becomes visible in the far distance. Passing through Baridjui
ad Karatagh, situated on the banks of the Turpalan, the travellers reached
liasar on the 24th September. The plain ii? covered with fields of rice,
which is of exceptionally good quality, Hissar itself is very unhealthy,
and in summer is practically abandoned, the whole population retiring
• Vid< * Pfooeedingi E,G.S./ 1886, p, 722,
No, IV.— April 1887,] t
246
GEOGKAPHICAL NOTES.
to Earatagh* At the latter placo the party was received by the Bey of
Hisear. After a fihort stay at Uissar, the travellers descended the still
unexplored valley of the Kafimahan to the point where it dischargee into
the Amn-Daria. The valley, bordered with chains of hills, has an average
breadth of about 2 J miles^ and is everywhere covered with saline efflores-
cenoes* The XJzbegs, who are rarely met with in the npper part of the
valley, are vary nnmerous near Kabadian. They settle on the rich
allnvial gronnd at the many bends of the river, or on the little islands
with which it ifl atndded. The hills are almost bai-e of vegetation.
Kabadian, reached by the party on Ist October, is situated in a fertile
oasis where the valley widens. The march was continued down the
valley by Bish-Kent to Aivadj, on the Amu-Baria, and thence to Termez,
where flome excavations were made among the ruins. On the lith
October the traveOers crossed the AmU'Daria, near Chnsbka Guzar, into
Afghanistan, when they were made prisoners by the Afghans at Shnr-
tepOi near the frontiers, and detained for 25 days in a Turkoman
sarai. On the 8th November, by order of the Emir, they were released,
and conducted across the frontier. The reason assigned for not allowing
them to travel in Afghanistan was that the country was not in a suffi-
ciently settled state. They bad thus got within about 50 miles of Balkh,
their intended objective. After making some further excavations at
Termez, the return journey was commenced up the Surkhan valley over
the mountains of Baisun, to Derbend, Near the latter point they took
Lup the route followed by them in 1881, in order to pass through the
^UftouB gorge of Chatchag. The ordinary route to Ghuzar was ahan-
ckmed in favour of one more to the north by Kara-Koval, and through
the valley of Katta-Uru-Baria. On the 8th December, after visiting
Karabag and Ghirakchi, the travellers crossed the Russo-Turkistan
frontier at Jam, and reached Samarkand, having been absent three
months*
Arctic Traveb^Mr. Alexander McArthur, formerly in the servioe
of the Hudson's Bay Company, loft Winnipeg on February 13th, on an
exploring expedition to the Polar regions* He intends to go from
Winnipeg to Fort Churchill, and to continue bis journey along the
west coast of Hudson Bay. While Colonel Gilder proposed to push
north by Fury and Hecla Strait, Mr. Mc Arthur proposes to go north-
west by way of King William's Land and Boothia Felix, He intends to
spend a winter on King William "s Land, and to go north in the ensmng
winter, crossing Lanciister Sound, and followiQg the west coast of North
Devon* He then proposes to cross to the little-known islands of Jones
Sound and thns reach the west coast of Grinnell Land, which, he hopes,
will prove a safe route north. He expects to be absent some three or
four years. W© agree with Scienee in believing that this plan of reaching
the North Pole will be as unsuccessful as Colonel Gilder's^ and it is a
pity that two men so energetic should waste their time in journeys that
GEOGRAPHICAL KOTKS,
247
can jield results of no value. There ia at least no reason why a traveller
who intends to explore the extreme north should not start from the
neare.st avaOable point, iostead of wasting his time and strength in a
hazardous joiimej for which there ia no neoessity, Ab Science Bnggest8»
Colonel Gilder might do real service by devoting his energies to the
explot-atton of Jones Sound» one of tbe most important remaining
problems of Arctic geography. The latest news with regard to Colonel
Gilder is that he has returned to Winnipeg from his Journey to Hudson^s
Bay, and has for the present given up his plan to reach the North Pole
by that route.
The Rivers of New England. — To the March number of the American
Journal of Science Professor N, S. Shaler contributes an article of some
geographical interest on the fluviatile swamps of New England. He
first notes the fact that the greater number of New Eti gland streams
flow in a genemlly north to south direotion. Except at tho head- waters
of ithese southward-flowing streams > where the brooks have too little
volume to clear their beds of the glacial waste which encumbers them,
the valleys of the group contain no swamps. All these southward-
flowing streams show that they have, for a conBidei-able time, been
cutting their beds downwards through a deep layer of detrital material
which was evidently deposited in their chitnuols While the ice-sheet was
disappearing from the district in which they lie. Above the alluvial
plain are several terraces l>eariug the mark of river-action. The upper-
most of these terraces, however, Professor Shaler points out, is of the
peculiar form characteristic of the deposits which were made at the
front of the ice-sheet when the base of tho glacier lay below the level
of the sea ; these Eame-hearing terraces were, he believes, formed while
the valleys in which they lie were depreased* Omitting tho upper
tennace^ the other terraces prove that in tho valleys of rivers flowing
from north to south, the conditions have been stich, that the streams
have had no difficulty in constantly cutting deeper and deeper into tho
detrital deposits which hindered their flow at tho dose of the glacial
period. Turning to the streams which flow from^ south to north,
we flod the conditions in marked contrast to those which are found
in the rivers flowing in the opposite direction* The number of these
northward- flowing streams is small, and none of them have drainage
areaii to be compared with those of the greater New England rivere.
Ppofesfior Shaler's observation refers especially to the Xaahua, the
Concord, tho Charles, and the Neponset, all situated in Eastern Massa-
chusetts. He finds that along the streams which flow from aouth to
north there are no river-terraces except those which are covered by the
ordinary floods, and are at times swampy ; while in the rivers flowing
in the opposite direction, the lowest terrace is well drained in the dry
season^ The only heuehes or terraces are of the Kame character
referred to above, and these are very conspicuous features in some
T 2
248
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
©f the valleys, and by an unwary observer may be taken for
ordinary river-terracea. A careful exaniinatton of their sections
and surfaces proves distinctly their glacial origin. Below the level
of the Kame terrace, the valleys of the rivers which flow from
south to north show no other l>enches till we descend to the level
of the present flood -plain, which is always covered with a very
slight flood. The whole of this alluvial plain is swampy, and so far as
Professor Shaler has aeen» there is never any indication of down-cutting
on the part of the stream-bed. It is, moreover, clear that the reverse
process is now rapidly in action ; none of these streams have sufficient
currents to clear their beds of the detritus brought into them by floods.
The result is that tho process of deposition is constantly going on, both
in tho river-bed and over a wide field on either side. At the same time
Professor Shaler produces evidence to indicate that at a former period
these rivers had a much more powerful current than now, capable of
doing considerablo excavating work. It thus appears probable that
after the streams which flow to the northward had in good part done
their excavating work, a change came over them which led to a
lowering of their slopes and a consequent diminution of their fall.
Professor Shaler enters into considerable detail to show that after the
removal of the ioe^iheet, there was an elevation of the land in the
district concerned, and that during the immediate post-glacial period
these north-flowing rivers excavated their valleys. Then a change
must have come about which led to the relative lowering of the
ftouthem part of New England, and a corresponding relative increase
in the height of the northern part of this section; Professor Shaler
ia inclined to think there was a positive sinking of the southern
section. The amonnt of tilting he estimates need not have exceeded two
feet to the mile, and was most likely a change which involved a largo
part^ if not the whole, of the glaciated district of the continent.
The Valley of the Cachapiial (Argentine Andes), — The current
number of Petermann's ' Mittoilungen * contains an article by Br. A.
Plagemann on his explorations, made last summer, in the valley of the
CachapuEd. The head-quarters of the traveller were the residence of
Don Manuel Olegario Soto, well known for his hospitality to all
travellers, situated in the centre of tho Hacienda of Canquenes. Dr.
Plagemann*s object was to make an exhaustive examination of this com-
paratively emaU but important district. The results of his work, while
confirming mainly those of the celebrated Dr. Paul Gilssfeldt • and other
travellers in the same region, will go to complete our knowledge of the
details of the country, and in several instauces rectify our maps. He
explored the tributaries on both banks of tho Cachapual, including the
Eios de los Cipresses> del Cortaderal, Claro, do los Lenas, and the
• Vidi ' Frooeodinga ILQ.SV 1884, pp. 658 et seq.
GECK3RAPH1CAL NOTES.
249
** cajoB *' de los Vegas, devoting much time to tho glaciers at tbe head of
the river vallojB. The " cajon " del Cortaderal contains a fin© glacier
&B large aa the magnificent *^Ada'' glacier of tho *^ cajon ^* do loa
Cipreeses which Br, Guaafeldt describes. The largest and most im-
portant glacier of the district, named the ** Yentisq^uero do los Piu-
quenes^" was thoroughly explored l>y the traveller* The head-waters
of the Cachapoal, he ascertained, conisist of three streams, tbo Hio de
Molina, Bio de los Fiuqitenea, and l?io de los PiuquencLtoe. The Rio
Canquenefi, marked on some maps, haa no existence. Dr. Plagemann
found the " penitentes *' or "penitents,** those curious conical snow-
formations in the same high zone of from 11,500 to 13,800 feet as
mentioned bj Dr* Giissfeldt. With regard to the effect of rarefied air
on the body at high elevations, neither he nor his companions snffered
at all ; he believes the 80*called " puna " to be connected in some way
with the electrical condition of the atmosphere* He confirms the
observation of preceding travellers as to tho vai-ying character of the
anow-line, which bo estimates, in agrooment vdih Herr Fiasis, at 10,500
feet* The author concludes his paper with some remarks upon the
different passes of the Cordillera.
Proposed Astronomical Observatories on High MonntaiiiB. — The
Harvard College Obeervatorj^ being entnisted with the Boyden fund of
230,000 dollars bequeathed for the purpose of promoting astronomical
reeearch at elevations free from atmospheric impediments, has issued an
invitation to travellers and others to furnish them with exact informa-
tion regarding mountain elevations,' especially in the southern hemi-
sphere. Facility of access is a prioiary condition, and it is probable
that a very great altitude will be eventually chosen for a permanent
station. The points on which detailed information is required are as
follows : —
1. Latitude and longitude. Distance and direction tVom some town, or otlxer
well-known point. Height, and how determined. 2, Peak, pass, or tableland.
Character of surface : ledge, broken rock, gravel, or covered with trees, shmba, or
grasSp Frevaleoce of snow in summer, and ])eriod during which the depth of snow
1 in i^nnter might obstruct the paths of access, or occasion other inconvenience or
damage. Proximity of wood for fuel, and of water. 3. Means of accesa, distance
fhmi and height above the nearest railway station, waggon road, bridle-path, or fool-
path* Time of ascent and descent. Nearest post-otBce and telegraph station, and
their distances from the proposed station* Nearest point of road kept open in
winter. 4. Observation of the rainfall at different seasons of the year. Proportion
of the sky covered with clouds at different hours and seasons. These observations are
desired at sunset, sanrise, and late in the evening. Such observations may also he
made of a distant mountain peak, confining the evening observations to moonlight
nights. Observations of the barometer and thermometer are also desired. Informa*
tion is wanted regarding the prevalence of very high winds ; the presence of dust,
haze, or the smoke from forest fires, rendering distant points invisible ; and all other
meteorological phenomena afifecting the value of the station for astronomical pur-
poses. If there is a rainy or cloudy season, its duration j also the regular recurrence
250
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
of clauils, thunder-storms, or wind, at any giveu hour of the day, 5. Sketches or
photographs of tbe proposed location, and of jioints on the road ; also of the view.
CorreBpondence is invitod with those residing near or in eight of
suitable locations who are willing to undertake any of the ohaervations
just descrilied above. Letters should be addressed to Mr* E. C. Piokering^
Director of Harvard College Obeervatary^ Cambridge, Mas6.» U.S.A.
GeograpMcal Education.— There are several matters of interest in
connection with the subject of geographical education which have come
np dming the past month. Bj a new ordinance of the German Educa-
tion Department geography has been raised to the first rank ("ein
selbstiindigeB Each "J in the higher schools of Germany ; that is, it may
bo taken as one of a teach er*^ two specialties along with either a scien-
tific, a linguistie, or an historical subject. The subjects of examioation
for a teaoher wishing to take the Faculta* Bocendi in geography are
laid down* There are three grades — for lower, middle, and higher
classes. For the lower classes the teacher must show that ho has an
elementary but precise knowledge of mathematical, physical (eapecially
topical), and political geography ; the candidate must also be in a posi-
tion to demonstrate the loading facts of mathematical geography by
means of simple apparatus. For a certificate of permission to teach in
middle classes, the candidate must show a more intimate knowledge in
the above-mentioned departments, as well as an aoquaintance with the
history of exploration, and with the roost important trade-routes, past
and present* For the upper classes the candidate must show that he
ha^ a thorough knowledge of the elementary mathematical principles on
which mathemalical geography ie based^ and be in a position to give an
account of the more important geological conditions of the earth's
surface. Moreover, the candidate must show that ho possesses an in-
telligent knowledge of the political geography of the present and of the
politico-historical geography of the most important civilised peoples, as
also prove his familiarity with the leading facts of ethnography. For each
stage, besides, the candidate must exhibit a readiness in the construction
of maps. In Germany it is believed that tliis new ordinance will have
a powerful influence in still further improving the position of geography
in that country; In this connection we may state that a German
teacher, Herr Anton Stauber, of the Beal- gymnasium of Augsburg, has
obtained tho King of the Belgians' prize of 25,000 francs, for the best
essay on the most effective means of popularising geography and im-
proving its position in education of all degrees. It is worthy of note
that no German was on the committee of judges. In our own country,
in connection with the exhibition of the Society's Educational Collection
at Bradford, a series of prizes was offered by the Bradford School Board
for (1) Hand-made models of the physical features of the borough;
(2) Hand -made maps of any country ; (3) Hand-made maps of the neigh-
bourhood of any school; (4) Hand-made model of the neighbourhood of
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 961
anv Echool; {^oj Hand-made apparatus for teaching lAiynuui] f^*^i^Tii\ihy i
acd loj A sketch of the geography and associated on) of YfjrkMrtf.
Thirnr-three maps and models were sent in for these pri/^m, whirii wm*^
decided on Uarch 17th, the adjndicators lx;ing Professor Mi*ill (of
Yorkshire College ;, Mr. J. S. Keltie, Mr. T. G. lJ<x^pcT. IT.M. Infqmfiim
•jf S^hcic-Liv azid Hr. A. B. Binnie, the Borough En gi been Th^^ U«t itmp
was one of Yorkshire hy Mr. F. D. King, of Tfoly Trinity ShiidHAi
Sch'icL Bndtbrd. while a m«yif:l of tho rjoantry around Hk'iptfAtf by Mi,
F. B. StkniiTArdr of Christ CharcL National Schry^l, waa of high m^rfft.
The physoil map of the ancitnt parish of Kildwif;k, }fy Mr. X F*
HjffwelL 'if KUdwick National School, also deserves mffniUfn. Tbft
^suBxaL iniinynrft of such competidona in impressing up^/n tead^^^n tli«
iapcztaooe of zood appaiacoa in teaching geography must \^. %f^ti, mbA
-ixey difirtiQbre 'ieflerve enconragement. The public spirit of tho Bra^
:*}r4 tTianKnar Smcol in isatinitinz such, a oorApetltion des^i^i?* a w^>rd
•:f pcuse.
Sum. Ta^a. — The • Deu-ache Oecgraphiache BUtt/tr ' •'^f
^nhlxfliiei ci biographical iketch ..t Emin P^aha ?>y I>r. W. WoJ
±um whicii we zarher the fuLlijwi=.g particnian. EdTUizri
'-iecoBT known tm Emin Paaxia. was bora ^n Xarch 2ftth, l^M), U Opyihiy
in PrTiwiinii ^Teaia. die «3n :t a merchant- On ?he fsif^vfiv^ n
I.r4J- die mother psmoveii v^ N^iase, *a<i *xn -ifvsrw«rjia ^
wemmt -ime. SkinaxrL -vie f.-im his ^jarliesr. Vnrjilni/v! *5xhi : flu«(
loT^i )f zanuTu. iifi lorj -v iiicii ]ia»» • i :.«^r ; n -jp i h ifii ;f! >. ; ■.n ii*/ a ilM>
jrr»:iiK -ime. jeceL^red jla 5r:»" ^::ii:arion ar, iho •'^/m- - ini <if
Xtriaite, ind snbseqnaiilj iTTUiiiiifi medicine ir rhe ^ni-rnni^mm ^
Broeian. Beriin. uuL K>inigaherr> Ha-^^n^ ihcained his 'i«g^«% !•
^tarTcti ^-r "lie East. )htaineil ui inpoinnuenr m Harhot
kt Anirrar:. icrompanied i militar* *::pedition ln&> ."iTria 4.1
"."TTi ^, ind iohsenuentiy be<!ame irraiihiwi 'xi :he linusehniii <i^
P.ifcfia^ -TOoni "jie irri^nderi Vj Trr^'r.i^fniL uul Srzenm. '"01
jud T.anua. iHa ^^aimn iihii rrw.irri.H -he ^ione if :;^74. :«iil A|^
:i?nniizBr u:com.nanieii jjs ramily 'o \..>Riitannnrjpl*^. In ".bft t^rta^tif
l::7r^ iie loidk ^izut to !iis j:eniia u Neiiifle uid Breaiaii. iTis .gCuwait di^
.i^r*a javmg ')een. -xciteti "ix-rpadinir 'Jie TorSa if "^in ipr T n jmd
Jmsch. j^ {taarted rVr Za^^r. imi ^ncpftetxert in ^hraining u rgrttac-
Jieni u iTircson _n -he irmy. 3bw lie mhsenuentiy <eT-7(hri inffnr
rtjrdoxL 3aaha. uui rose -o -iie losirion f Tfi'«-f-i.rr*or ^r' 'Iv^ '' »:/ir;»l
-'rrrvmce, j naner f !iutor7. — ^Th*?- 'iTiik 'f Jr. Hrnnitzer ..tUi^w
vin^ai "oilection^a. aiL^nnnn;^ :o ^" >•'• inet^imeni^. ftiineftni ni Jmi^ ten«
en- -ij Dr. '. ZarrLauh \x 3rKnen, oui Pinr. .i. -on ?',i7^tn r^
'?omii 'fDr. Zirtianr/- ; actors >ii -Lii ^oilrfriorj* .»r»-r li^^Ti »i ,.. -^
■:iir ^Trxjeetiiaus f "he luOjLOi^iioai ioi^ierr -t' — .ntVm. oirt .n
"hfe man t he Bnriah )mithoio;5icai T-nm- riw*-;- .nclui*
hzpe -Tieexea uui k :iew ^emza. oamed 'Zminia ' ij .Ir. H ti4^ >•
:oniiUT t -r.e ^iHc^Tr-rar.
52 )
COEEESPONDENCK
The Band-i-Amir Lakes and Moore's Bmdemeer.
In the article on Captaias Maitland and Talbot's journeys in AfghaniBtan, in the
Febraary number of tbe * Proceedings* (p. 104), it is eaid that, " An excuraion was
made to the oelebrated Band-i-Amir lakes, whicli are mentioned by the poet Moore/*
in the following passage :^
** There's a bower of roBea by Bendemoer'i atreum,
And the mghtmgalo eings round it all the day long;
In the limo of my childhood *twaa liko a sweet dream,
To iit in the rosea imd hear the birds' song."
The writer of the article forgets that to reach Moore's *' Bendemeer*s stream," not
" lakes/* one must go to Persia, to tho neighbourhood of. Slitr^z, Moore^ in a foot^
note to the passage referred to, says it is "a river which flows near the ruins of
Chilminan"
In fact, the Band-i-Amlr referred to in the article in the * Proceedings ' — which
also is known by another name, and will be described in my 'Notes on
Afghdnist^u,' aa soon as they are allowed to see the light — ^has nothing whatever to
do with " that bower on the banks of the calm Bendemeer !*' of Lalla Rookh. The
" river,*' so-called, of Moore's poem, was a hand or dyke, but not a hand in the usual
acceptation of that word as used in India, hut a stone structure of considerabLe
architectural beauty, " the like of which,*' the Muliammadan historians say, " the
world did not contain,** erected over the river Kur, near the city of Shlrdz, for the
purpose of irrigating the numerous gardens and vineyards in the plain north-west of
the city, in which there literally were " bowers of roses/' and also for drinking
purposes.
It was the munificent work of the great Amir, *Uzd-ud-Daulah, Abu-Shuj4*-i-
Kai-Klmsran, the Buwiah or Dilami, sovereign of Pars, and ivho caused many other
works of public utility to be erected. He came to the throne in 3^ IL
(94^-50 A.D.), »iid died in 372 H, (982-83 a.d.).
It is dangerous to jump at oonclusions^ in geographical and historioal matters
especially, from an apparent similarity in names.
H* G. RAVERTy,
The Secretary, R.G.3. Ma/or,
11th March, 1887:
The LengtJis of the Grmted Rivers,
Caius Colleoe, GAlTBBnSGr, '
Fek 17th, 1887.
In connection with General Tillo*s estimates of the lengths of great rivers, given in
tlie * Proceedings* for the present month, it may be interesting to notice the different
results we obtain as to their relative lengths, when the minor windings of the streams
are left out of consideration. Not only will the order of length of the eight rivers
given be greatly altered, but the riveia themselves included in the list will be
different. And, indeed, by so doing we obtain a more correct idea of their compara-
tive importancCj sioce the lengths obtained will correspond more nearly with the
extent of country drained, or, at any rate, with the extent of their basins from source
to mouth. It seems unsatisfactory that a river should take a high place en the list
from mere accidental circumstances which cause it to take a tortuous course.
The proportion which the true length of a river bears to that of its general course
COKRESPONDENCE.
253
T&rles immensely according to sucli circumstances. As a general nilc of ooursc, tlie
greater the slope of the country, the fewer Tvindings will there be, except where the
stream U conatAatly deflected, io passiog tliroush a hilly country. Again, a river of
great volume will, owing to lis width, gain less by the small curves which would
iM>t appear in an ordinary map. As examples of the two extremes in this respect
we may take the Bio Funis, wbich along its general course measures only about
half its true length, and the St. Lawrence, in which the difference is inconsiderable.
Id an imperfectly surveyed country the true length can be roughly computed, by
aaoeitaining the average ratio betv,'ceu the two measurements in the case of two well-
known rivers. Captain Blakiston, from his observations on the Yang-tsze, sug-
giested 1*3 : 1 as this ratio ; * but owing to the extreme tortuosity of one part of the
liver, this difference seems slightly above the average. It may be observed that when
a rivier flows through a nearly flat alluvial plain, the tendency is for the windings to
be gnuiually increased, as the force of the current wears away the concave side of
the curve, while the projecting points are lengthened.f
Of the eight rivers of General Tillo*^ list, those which owe their position in it
mainly to the windings of their stream, are the Mississippi, Mackenzie^ and Amur,t
while the Congo takes a lower place than that to which the length of its general
oouTBe would entitle it. In the case of the Amazon this latest estimate corresponds
more nearly with the rougher measurement than that given in most lists a few years
ogcv in wbich, in spite of its great breadth, a proportion of over 1 in 2 was added
OQ /or windings not appearing in a small-scale map. The order m which the
■ame eight will be put down on the other plan, and the approximate lengths
of their general course, will be— (1) Kile, 3100 miles j (2) Yang-tsze-kiang, 2750 j
(3) Yenesei-Selenga, 2700 ; (4) Amazon, 2600 ; (5) Mississippi and Congo, 2500 ;
(T) Amur, 2200 ; (8) Mackeniie, 1800. The Mackenzie now falk far short of, and
the Amur is equalled by several rivers not included m the above list, viz. the
Hoang-ho, Lena, Obi -Irtish, and Mekong, while the Niger and Parana are very little
behind these. These measurements are to a certain extent proportional to the
direct distances from source to mouth, in wliich res-pect the Nile far surjeissea any
other river.
It 13 often said that the rivers of Asia are inferior in length to those of America
owiug to the position of the mountain ranges near the oentre in the former case, and
near one side in the latter. But from the above figures we see that the Asiatic
rivers, in spite of the conformation of the country, would quite equal those of
America, were it not for the much greater tortuosity of the latter. Of course the
icaiOQ mentioned, together with the fact of the vast area of inland drainage in
Asia, accounts for the non-existence there of rivers far surpassing those of any other
part of the world, which the immense size of the continent would lead us to expect.
Such a river might have existed, even with the present dis|X)sition of the main
ranges, if the depresaion of Lob Nor had not prevented the drainage of Eastern
Turkeetan from reaching the sea, or if the drainage into the Sea of Aral had been
ttrried on into the Obi, which last some have conjectured to have been the case in
ancient times,
I may notice that if, as is laid down in the map embodying the results of A — k's
surveya, the Nak-chu-kha of Tibet flows into the Lan-tsang-kiang instead of
tbe Lu'klang, the Mekong ought probably to have a place among the eight longest
rivers in the world.
Edwaed Hkawood.
• * The Yang-tse,* p. 296, t Ibid., p. 97.
♦ At one part of the Upper Amur a voyage of 20 miles hrinp one back to a point
half a mile from the starting-point (ri**? Batea* * Illustrated Traveli*/ i- p. *i47.
C 254 )
KEPOET OF THE ETENIN& BIEETINGS, SESSION 1886-7.
Seventh Meeting, Fehrmry 2Sih, 1887- — General E. Strachby, r.e., f.r,s,,
Vice-President, in the Cliair.
Elkctioks.^ — Eev. John F. Bramston ; Capt, Archibald I>rummond (Scots
Guarda) ; Geo, T. Fernet/hough, Esq. ; Edward John Eaks^ Eiq. ; JJev. H. P.
Bigginion-Whyts-MeUille ; Lakshmi Nardyanu^ Esq.; Albert Oeorge Parrot , Esq.;
Itichard Adolf Ploetz, Eaq.y M.A. ; W, P. Simdairf E$q.^ m.p, ; WiUtam Ja$. Joseph
Spry, Esq, ; J?. E, Tliompsonr, Esq,, b.a.
PBESBJITATION.^IF. £, ^amUtm, Eaq,
ESTABUSMMEKT OF A EeADELESUIP OF GeOGEAFHY AT QXFOBD.
On opening the bosiness of Ibe MeetiDg, the Chairman announced thatin reiponse
to a proposal that was made to the University of Oxford lost Btimmer^ the (k»\mcil
had received a oommuEication to the effect that the UDiTeraitj had determined to
appoint a Lecturer of Geography for fire yeara ; bo that as regards Oxford ^ the aapira-
tions of the Society had been realised. He was sure that the Fellows would be glad
to hear that the UniTersity of Oxford had taken this step. A dmilar application
had been made to Cambridge, but the negotiations were not sufficiently advanoed to
enable him to make any definite statement with regard to it He thought, however,
there was every probabiUty of Cambridge following in the direction ifx which Oxford
was now leading.
The following jiaper was read : — " Prejevalaky*s Journeys and Discoveries in
Central Asia-" By E. Delmar Morgan, Esq, Ante, p. 213.
Eighth Meeting, March 14ih, 1887.— Frakcis Galtok^ Esq., f,r,s.,
Vice-Presidoiit, in the Chair.
Elections.— Mayor Patrick Qm. Craigie; Arthur Willis Danthwaiie^ Esq,^
ii<D, ; Stankif Edwards, Esq^ ; Mev^ Mithad Graves ; Cdonel Eenry Lumsdai
(Loud. Scot. E.y.); Menry MocJtford, Esq.; Gerald Statilesf PhUip^ Esq.; [F,
liat/nwnd. Esq, ; Percy Cliarks Pmd, Esq, ; E. E. Wilson^ Esq,
Phbskntationb. — N, Prowtr, Esq,
The jiaper of the evening was •* The Alpine Ilegiona of Alaska." By Lieut.
H. W. Seton-Karr (92nd Highlanders).
PEOCEEDINGS OF FOEEIGN SOCIETIES.
Oeographical Society of Paris.— February 4th, 1887 : M. Jaksben in the
Chair.— M. G. Boll and forwarded copy of a paper read by General Perrier belbre a
recent meeting of the Academy of Sciences^ on the artesian wells and oases created
by the French in Ued Eir (South Algeria). The correspondent took the opportunity
of pointing out the complete suooess of this system of irrigation. Already five oases
hod been formed and planted in this district ; one company hod made seven artesian
wells and planted 50,000 date-palms, — A note was read from Dr. Labonne with
reference to M, Feddersen's recent paper given at Copenhagen on the subject of the
PROCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES,
9S5
aodeDt TegetatioD of IceL&Dd. I)r. Laboune maintaiDs that the trunkB of great trees
found there hy M* Feddersen were carried up into the Valley of the GeyaerB hy the
isea, an arm of which formerly penetrated into the south part of the island, and that
they were covered over by a volcanic eruption. He points out that all these tree
tnmlu are found lying horizontally, and that their apeciejj differs from the present
dwarf bniahwood,-^M, E, Hangsen-Blaugsted informed the Society that the popu-
lation of Sweden on the 3 1st Decemlxjr, 1886, numbered 4,720,000, accordiag to
the of&cial report,— Tho Minister of Public Instruction forwarded a letter, dated
20tL December, 1886, from MM. Capus and Bonvalot, now travelling in Central
Asia, — An extract from the Chinese Tirnes^ on the opening of the first French
railway in China, was Bent by M. Decauville. The line runs from Tien-tsin to
Ching-Yang, a distance of only two miles, hut it is extremely popular among the
natiree, and will doubtless lead the way for more important undertakings. —
Writing from Arecife de Lanzarote (Canary lelands), on the 8th January, M, Camille
Douls announced that he was about to start on a journey across Uad^Dra&t and
Suss, under the auspices of the Minister for Foreign Affairs. This country had
been but pftrtially explored, and he would inform the Society from time to time of
the geographical results of his mission, — The operations of the French in 1886 lu
the weetem Sudan were set forth in report received from the Upper Niger, — Br,
Boaire presented a book on behalf of the author, M, Yalery-Mayet, which gives au
tooount of the explorations of the latter in South Tunis, In commenting upon this
work Dr, Eouire observed that H. Valery-Mayet, who was professor of zoology at the
School of Agriculture at Montpellier, was entrusted by the Minister of Public
Bustiuction with this mission of seientiEc exploration in Tunis. Starting &om Bfax,
he had travelled over the country between that town and Gassa and then on to
Gabes and Zarzis. His book was fall of the moat valoable information on the
fauna and flora of Tunis ; his observations on the gum-tree being very interesting,
lie confirms the ancient geographers in their description of the conn try ,^The
Minister of Public Instruction forwarded a letter from M. Ph. Pinellij dated ifom
Ciudad Bolivar, 15th December, 1B86, according to which M. Chaffianjon, the
traveller on the Orinoco, had started from San Fernando de Atabspo and was
then exploring the country in the vicinity of the head- waters of the Orinoco,
— M, William Huber, Vice-President of the Central Commission and General
Secretary of the Commisaion on Friaes, announced the awards made by the
Sodety for the year 1887 ;— Gold Medal to Captain Chae. Bouvier, of the Navy,
for his geographical and topographical work in the French Congo region ; Gold
Medal to M, Fritsche, Director of the Russian Observatory at Fekin, for liis
numerous journeys in the north of China during the last sijEtecn years } Gold Medal
to M. Joseph Martin in consideration of his Siberian travels and particularly his
itinerary in the still tit tie* known country between the Lena and the Amur ; Silver
Medal to M. Alph. Aubrey, civil engineer, for the geographical resulta of his mission
to Sboa ; the ** La Roquette "prize to Lieutenant A, W. Greely, of the American
Army, for his expedition to Smith Sound and his meteorological and magnetic
observations ; the ** Erhard " prize to M. Grcnier, of the Naval Map Depfit ; and the
" Jomard*^ prize to M, Joret in recognition of his biography of M, Tavemier, the
great French traveller.— M, Venukoff presented a memoir written by himself on
the navigability of the riverg of Eastern Europe and also an excellent map of
the environs of Lake Baikal, published by M* Tchersky, on scale 1 : 420,000, which
shows the depths. — ^In conclusion, a paper was read by M. J. Renaud, hydro graphical
engineer, on the harbours of Toaking. The writer dwelt on the factitious develop-
ment of Haiphong, which he said could never l>e a great port in consequence of two
sandy bars at tbe mouth of the river, Hon-Gac, in the Bay of Halong, was
256
PROCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES*
dcstmed to become the harbour of tho future, being in communication with the
heart of the delta by means of canals ; a railway connectiog it with Hanoi could be
mado without much difficulty. The roadstead of Haloug was accessible in all
weather, at all times of the tide and to shipa of the greatest tonnage. Though
not unhealthy, it^ situation in this respect was inferior to that of Haiphong, — The
report of the Society's Librarian for 1886 showed additions during the year of 1038
workB, comprising 1249 volumes, 114 maps in 249 sheets, 42 atlases, and 231G
photogmphs, besides numerous periodicals.
February lath, 1887 : M. W. Huber, Vice-President of the Ceotnil
Commission, in the Chair. — Among the letters read at the commencement of the
meeting was one from M. W. Martin on the place of Tavernier's death, a question
which had been before the Society on several occasions* The writer quoted the
statements of MM* Haag, who assert that the great traveller died at Copenhagen,
and not at Moscow, as supposed, M* Joret, the biographer of Tavemier, upheld the
latter view. Tho Chairman suggested that steps should be taken by the Society to
clear up this point — M. R. du Caillaud sent a risumi of recent articles in several
religious papers which jiosscssed geographical interest* The following facts may
be mentioned. The Germans had established a station at a point two hours* march
east of Mrogoro (Africa). A young Swedish officer had arrived at the latter place
from the Congo. After a two years' engagement with the International African
Association^at Stanley Falls, he set out for the East Coast with a few men and hardly
any provisions. Deducting the time of his residence at the Falls, he had croesed the
continent by the Congo route in the very short time of from nine to ten months.
At Benito, on the West Coast, th© ** Mission du Saiol-Esprit '* had established a
station, — A letter was read from M, Fr, Scbrader, Member of Central Commission,
on the subject of M. do Saint Sand's paper on the Pyrenees, given at a recent
meeting. — The Minister of Public Instruction communicated a letter from MM.
CapuB and Bonvalot, written from Samarkand, and giving the news of their ex-
IKjdition down to the ISth January last.^The Chairman alluded to the presence
at the meeting of Lieut. 0. Giraud, lately returned from Tongking, and MM.
Dufourcq, Becazes, and Ponel, three of the most energetic colleagues of M. de
Brazza on the Congo. He hoped that the Society would have the pleasure of
listening to pajiers from these tmvellers at no distant date.— ^In conclusion, M, J.
Thoulet gave on account of the voyage he had just made along the coasts of New-
foundland in the ship La Clorinde^ with the object of studying several important
questions relative to the hydrography and geology of these parts. With regard to
the banks extending along the sc^uth of Newfoundland, he said that Maurj' had
attributed their formation to the deix>sit of mineral matter brought down from
Greenland by the iceberi^s, which here come under the influence of the warm waters
of the Gulf Stream. M, Thoulet was of opinion that the icebergs had nothing to do
with this formation, which he stated was due to the erosion by the frost, and the
carrying away by the coasting ice, of tho rocks on the west coast of Newfoundland
snd Labrador.
Geo^aphical Society of Berlin, — February 6th, 1887 : Professor Sachact
in tlie Clmir, — A letter was read from Br. Junker, dated from Cairo, January 24th,
in which the traveller informed the President that he intended to remain some time
in Cairo to recover his health, and avoid a too rapid change of climate. He woulcf
then proceed to St, Petersburg, where his relatives resided, and on his journey
thither would give an account of his travels to the BerUn Geographical Society, —
Herr Staudinger (Member of the Flegel expedition to the Niger) then addressed
the meeting on his journey, m company with Herr Harbert, to Sokoto. From Loko
on the Benu^i the expedition proceeded vi^ Anassarawa, Iveffi and Kashia to Saria
PROCEEDIKGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIEa
257
Aa the chief of Sana would not permit tlie expedition to travel alone and
wltbout protection lliroagli tbe robber- mfea ted forest district of Katoahena on the
north-west of Saria, the travellers were obliged against their will to remain soveral
months in this town, a delay which they profited by fn making an excursion to
Kano, six days* journey distant, whence it would have been easy to reach Kuka if
time and money had been at their disposal. On the 9th December, 1885, the
expedition was at last able to leave, in the retinue of tbe Saria chief, who had to
take to the 8ultan of Sokoto the customary tribute. At Gidan Goga tbe Sultan
give them a very friendly reception, and accepted the letter and presents from the
Emperor of Germany, granting full liberty to Germans to reside and trade in Ms
country. They had permission to visit Sokoto and Wurna as well as the province
of Gandii which is governed by the Suitan*s younger brother. The expedition
returned from Sokoto on tbe 20th April, 1886j by the same route to Loko on the
Benue, the slender means at their disposal not permitting them, as they originally
intended, to varj' their route by visiting the hitherto unexplored district extending
from Bauchi and Muri to Jols*
March StTi, 1887 : Professor Sachau in the Chair,— A paper was read by
Dr. Snouck Hurgronje of Leyden, on bis six months' residence in Mecca, where he
remained in the disguise of a Mahommedan Effendi, from February to August 1885,
with the object of studying, on a spot free from Earojiean influenoes, the real life
of Islam and its power over other lands, especially the Dutch East Indies.
Dr* Horgronje was tbe fifth European who had visited Mecca; previously there
have been a Si)aniard under the name of Ali ]3ey el-Abbaei, F* L, Burckhardt,
Capt. R, F. Burton, and J , F. Keane (de Maltzan s * Peleriuage a la Mecquc *
contains only well-known facta and hearsay inaccuracies). Dr. Hurgronje, more-
over, is the first traveller who has lived for a long time in the metropolis of Islam, and
not merely as a pilgrim in the season of the pilgrimage. He made first a stay of five
months in Jedda, in order to get acquainted with people from Mecca. Tho in-
hahitanta of Jedda live chiefly on their trade with pilgrims ; every Meccan leader and
guide of pilgrims (Sheikh) has his agents (Vakil) who form an important class, and he
deals with a definite class of pilgrims whose languages and customs he understands,
leading them to the holy city and caring for their living until with lightened purses
they start on their homeward journey. Many of these sheikhs have twenty to thirty
subordinates, and 180 sheikhs deal only with the Malayan pilgrims. The road between
Jedda and Mecca is protected by eight small forts a^nst robbers. The journey can
he accomplished, on an ass, in fourteen hours. The appearance of the city has changed
scarcely at all since BuTckhardl*d time. In the middle of the narrow, north and south-
lying, valley stands the mosque, in an open court, surrounded with a colonnade, in
the middle of which is seen the Ka'ahaj the sanctuary of the ancient Arabians, The
mosque covers a s]Tace of 21 hectares. Tbe surface of the city ground is rising gradually
through the accumulation of detritus washed down into tlie valley by rains from
the neighbouring heights, but around the mosque tbe soil is kept to the same level
by artificial means. All rain from the eastward brings floods to the city. The
" black stone/' five feet high, is built into the eastern angle of the Ka'aba, and bound
by a silver ring. There are many such black stones in Mecca, which are reverenti-
ally regarded by tho faithful, though not officially sanctioned. On this account the
stone cannot well be an aerolite. Ou Abu Gibez, the holy mount to the east of
Mecca, Dr. Hurgronje found a stone exactly similar. He brought home a sample of
the water of the holy spring Zemzera, which on being analysed proved to contain a
considerable quantity of bitter salt. A conduit 50 kilometres in length supplies
Mecca with fpesh water, and there are public fountains in each street which have
been perfectly restored through the able Governor, Othman Pasha, the Wali WOlyet
258
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
el-Hidjar, The populatioE is veiy mixed, Hi^iramaut supplies chiefly traders,
Egypt traders^ handicmftsineDj professors of the healing art, and many iiiarrift^jeable
girlB* Yemen, Syria, the Magrib, Bokhara aad Afghanistan, India and the Malay
Archipelago are also numerously represented. This diversified assemblage, however^
is quickly asaimilated, and takes the peculiar character of the Koralshite nucleus of the
population. Eastern aod Central Africa contribute numerous negro slaTes^ who
are here well treate<l, and after several years* service frequently received into society
as free men. The Mecca people form numerous corporations, ^ilds, aristocracies of
Seyyids and Sherifes; but their importance is nullified by the vigorous action of the
Government, The city is divided into fifteen districts without visible boundaries,
and fends arising from trifting causes often break out between the inhabitants of
different districts, which are sometimes fought out with abusive words or knives
outside the city. The character of the people is generally humane, hospitable, and
sociable; it is only during the pilgrim months, when each one has to care for himself
and get all he can during the short time, that they appear greedy and av&ricioug.
Through an indiscretion of the French Vice-Consul at Jedda in betraying him, Dr,
Huigronje waa Huddenly seiMd and ejected from Mecca, barely escaping with his
life.
NEW GEOGBAPmCAL PUBLICATIONS,
(By J. SooTT Keltie, Librarian B.o.s,)
EUBOPK
Forel, [Br J F* A, ^ Lc Lac Leman. Precis Scicntifique, 2"*" Edition, revue
et augment^e. Geneve, 11, Georg, 1886 ; 8vo., pp* 76. [Presented by the Author*]
This hrochure originally appeared aa a contribution to the volume on Mont-
* reus, published in 1877, Br, Forel has done well to bring it down to date
and publish it separately. It is really a succinct but complete account of tlic
interesting lake in all its aspects, and embraces the results of Dr, ForePs own
very valuable researches.
Mahafiy, J» F* — Rambles and Studies in Greece. Third edition. London,
Macmillan & Co,, 18B7: 8vo,, pp, xviii. and 465, map and illustrations.
Price IQs. 6d [Presented by the Publishers,]
KmoMiLf James Oeorge Cotton. -^ The Growth of Freedom in the Balkan
Peninsula. Notes of a Traveller in Montenegro, Bosnia, Servia, Bulgaria, and
Greece. With Historical and Descriptive Sketches of the People. London, John
Murray, 1886 : 8vo,, pp. xvi. and 415, Price 10«. 6d.
Describes the general coudition of things in the Balkan Peninsula, more
particularly in their political aspect. Some of the matter has already appeared
m the Times and the Morning AdvertueTj but there is much that is new.
The concluding chapters of the work deal with the social life of the Bulgarians.
There is a map of the Balkan States.
[l^EBiaiiiE,]^ — Annnles de Plnstitut Mdt^orologique de Eoumame, Par Ste&a
G. Hepites, Directeur. ISSij. Tome L Bucharest, 1886 ; 4to», ppw cxixviii, and
367, [Presented by M. Hepites,]
Geographers as well as meteorologists will welcome this volume as a token of
a serious effort to work out the climate of Roumania. The introduction contains
a history of meteorological researches in Roumania,
Temperatur-mittel aus der Periodo 1851-1885 : fur die CaterreichiBcheii Alpen
und deren Grenzgebiete, 4 to,, pp. 30.
NEW OEOGRiJ'HICAL PUBLICATIONS.
259
ASIA.
Conder, Claude Eeignier— Syrian Stoae-Lore ; or. The Monumental History of
Palestine^ Published for the Committee of tho Pftlestitie Exploration Fund.
London, R. Bentley & Son, 1886 : 8vo., pp, xiv, and 472, maps. Price 7«. 6d.
This is a treatise on the ancient condition of Palestine from the earliest
recorded timea down to the close of the Frank dominion. It diBCtisies the
social condition of the inhabitants of the country, their race— origina, langnages,
rdigion% social cnstoma, government^ art, literature, and trade. The anther
fioiuiida the present review of the reanlta of exploration and research not
an the Biblical narratives, hut on monumental records ; and endeavours in
the early chnpters to show what could be known of Sjrria and of ita inliabitants,
Hebrews^ Hittites, Phoenicians, <&c., were there nothing left to us of a Hebrew
literature. There are three maps as follows :— 1. Map of Syria in 1300 bx, ;
2. Map of Syria in 500 A.n. ; 3. Map of Syria about 1180 a.d.
Biener, [BrJ Carl. — libanon. Gruntllinien der Physischen Geographie mod
Geologic von Mittel-Syrien. Wien, Holder, 1886 : 8vo,, pp^ x, and 412* Price
The guiding principle of Dr. Biener's work is tho ^ intimate relation which
exists between the geology and geography of a limited region like tliat em-
bf«oed in the volume, Dr, Diener has made a very thorough study of Central
Syria, and the results are a useful contribution to scientific geography. In the
first section he gives a general view of the stratigraphical condition of Central
Syria ; followed by sections on the littoral of Phoenicia and the Lebanon ; the
deprassion r^ion of Coelo-Syria ; th(* Antilibanna and the system of Palmyra
ridges; the leading lines of the Lebanon ^stem and their relations to the
itractTire of Western Asia and the Eastern Mediterraoean basin. The volume
contains a considerable '.number of fine photographs besides maAy woodcut
illustrations, sections, and ma|>s*
Hull, Edward CXL.B., F.E.S.]— Mount Seir, Sinai, and Western Palestine. Being
a Narrative of a Scientific Expedition. Majia and illustrations. Published for
the Committee of the Palestine Exploration Fund by Richard Bentley & Son,
1885 : 8va, pp. xvi. and 227. Price 10s. 6d.
The geological results of Dr. Hull's expedition to Palestine have alreadv
been noticed in the * Proceeeings * for 1886, p, 343. The present volume con-
tains the narrative of the expedition, and therefore gives many geographical
detail.^} unsuited to the geological treatise. The maps, sections, and illustrations
are useful.
[India.] — Memoirs of the Geological Survey of India. Palieontologia Indica , . . .
Ser. XIL The Foaail Flora of the Gondwfina System. Vol IT. Part 2. The
Fossil Flora of some of the Coalfields in Western Bengal, By Ottokar Feist-
mantel, M.D. Calcutta, Geological Survey Office, Jtc. ; London, Tnibner Sc Co.
1886 : folio, pp. iv. and 71, plates.
Ditto. Ser. XIII. SalUBange Fosails. By WiEiam Waagen, ph.d., r.o.s.
L Productus-Limestooe Fossils. 6. Ccclcnterata, Calcutta, ditto; London,
ditto^l886: folio, plates.
Lydekker, Mcbard.— Catalogue of the Eeinaina of Siwalik Vertebrata contained
in the Geological Department of the Indian Museum, Calcutta. Part I. Mam-
malia. Calcutta, printed by the Superintendent of Government Printing^ India,
• 1885 : 8vo., pp. X. and 116.
Ditto. Part IL Aves, Beptilia, and Pisces. Calcutta, ditto, 1886 : 8vo.,
ppw vii and 26.
Catalogue of the Remains of Pleistocene and Pre-historic Yertebrata con-
taiced in the Geological Department of the Indian Museum, Calcutta. Calcutta,
ditto, 1886: 8vo., pp. vi. and 16,
^260* KKW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIOKS.
Memorio vnB het Eealtiur iler Nederlnndsch-Indische Maatschappij ran Nijverlieid
en Laadbouw t© Batavta aan de Directenren der NederlaBdache Maatschappij ter
bevordetiDg van Nijverlieid te Haarlem over de Pakketvaart in Nederkodscli-
Inditi. Batavia, Ogilvie & Co*j 1886; 8vo,t pp. 111.
Tiie Biicred Books of the East. Translated by various Oriental Scholars, and edited
by F. Max Miiller. VoIb. XXV. and XXIX. Oxford, Clarendon Preaa, 1886 :
8vo., fi\ (xxv.) cxxxviii. and 620 j (xxix.) 440, [Presented by the Secretarj^ of
State for India.]
Van der GhilB, J. A^-^Be Ycatiging van bet NederlandacbeGezagover deBanda-
Eilanden (1599-1621). TJitgegeyen door bet Bataviaascb Genootscbap van
Kunaten en Wetenscbflpp«n. Batavia, Albrecbt & Co. ; *s Hage, M. Nijboff,
1886 : large 8vo., pp. iii. and 18i, map.
Nederlandscb-Indificb Plakaatboek, 1602-1811. Derde Deel. 1678-1709.
Uitgegeven door bet BataviaascK Genootscbap van Kunsten en Wetenschappen
met medewerking van de Nederlandscb-Indiscbe Begering. Batavia, Lands-
dmkkerij ; 's Hage, M, Nijboff, 1886 : 8vo., pp. 681.
B AFEIGA.
[Cape of Good HopeJ—The Cape of Gootl Hope Civil Service List, 1887 : con-
mniog tbe Official Hetorn of the Civil and Military Establisbmeots of the Colony,
Acts and Ecgulations, Services and Duties of Officers, etc. Also tbe Civil Service
Calendar, 1887: containing all matters connected with tbe Examinations for
entry into the Service, and tbe Civil Service Law Examinations, Edited by
Ernest F. Kilpin. Caj>e Town, J. C. Jiita& Co., 1887: Svo., pp. xii. and 27C,
map. [Presented by tbe Colonial Secretary, Cape of Good Hope.]
Collton, [CoL] E.E. — Journal d\m voyage du Caire ^ Kt'oeb, Berenice et Berber,
et retour yar Ic d^ert de Korosko. [Bulletin de la Soci^td Kb^iviale de Gdo-
grapbie, 11* Serie, Num^ro 0.] Le Caire, Imp. nationaio, IS86: Svo.
Tbe journey was made in 1873-74.
HorowitZi Victor J. — Marokko. Das Weeentlicbste und Tnteresfianteste iiber
Land und Lento. Leipzig, Friedricb, 1887 : 8vo., pp* 215. Price 4ff< {WiUiams
(fc Norgnte.)
Tbis is a useful and careful siunmary of wbat we know concerning Morocco,
by a member of tbe German Consulate at Tangier. It deals witb the position
and dimensions of tke country ; cbmate, mountains^ rivers, and division of the
land ; products ; inbabitants ; mode of life i manners and customs ; religion ;
industry and trade ; government ; history j most imf tort ant towns. In a few
concludiuci; considerations tbe autbor maintains that tbe wbole of tbe nortb
cuast of Africa ought to be occnpied by European ixjwers.
[Madagascar.]— The Antananarivo Annual and Madagascar Magazine, No, i.,
Cbristmas 1886, (Part li. of vol. iii.) Edited by the Rev, J. Sibree, f.k.q.s., and
Rev, R, Baron, f.l,s. Antananarivo, L.M.S. Press, 1886 : 8vo., pp. i v. and 128-260,
[Presented by Mr. Sibree.] (TriihnerJ)
Tbe present number consists largely of papers on Malagasy folk-lore, philo-
logy, poetry, S^c, It, bowever, contains a translation of M. Grandidier's pai>er
on the channels and lagooos of tbe east coast of Madagascar, to which Mr.
Sibree odds a supplementary not© referring to Captain Kooke'a boat-jonmey
along these lagoons in 18(j4 (Proc. R.G,S., December 1885). Mr. Sibree states
that witb a comparatively small expenditure a continuous and commodious
waterway might be made along 300 miles of coast, connecting the principd
ports un the east side of tbe i&Iand, and giving a great impetus to trade. Less
than 30 miles of canal would be suflRcient for the purpose. More than fifty
years ago, during the refgn of tbe first Radama, this great work was actually
commenced ; but the death of that sagacious sovereign put an end to the work.
NEW GKJGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
261
[Kessedagliat G. B.l^Diario Storico Mi H tare dellc Ri volte al Sudan dal 1878 in
poi. Alessandria, V. Penasaon^ 1886 : lai^e 8vo.» pp. 63, maps* [Presented by
F. BoDolii, General Secretary to the 'Societc KliMivialc de Geographie,*]
MoUer, P., Pagels, Q„ och Gleerup, E.— Tro Ar i Kongo. Stockholm,
Korstedt. [Presented by tbo Publishers,]
This work is appearing in parts of 80 pa^^es eacb, and will when complete
form two Tolumea. It desoribes the experiences of the three authors during
their residence on the Congo as employes of the Free State. Two parts have
appeared, abundantly illustrated*
EoMfs^ Gerhard-— Quid Novi Ex Africa ? CasseJ, Fischer, 1886 : 8vo., pp, li88.
[Presented by tiio Aiith<.>r.]
This volume, without content* or index, oonsiste of a number of detachad
sketchy papers by Dr. Rnhlfa on a great variety of African subjects, such au
Towns on the Red Sea ; the Climate of the Red Sea and Abyssinia ; Egypt ;
Coffee; Jews in Africa; Is there any TCJiBon for believing that the town popu-
lations of Morocco, Algeria, Tunis, and Tripoli arc of a special character ? France,
Algeria, and Tunis j the Colonisation of East Africa ; the Hygiene and Cli-
matology of East Africa, &c. There is no indication that these papers have
already appeared, though they have mostly the appearance of journalistic
articles.
ABIERIOA.
Ball, JohB, F*Il,S, — Notes of a Natural ist in South America. London, Kegan
Paul, Trench, & Co., 1887. Price Bs. M. [Presented by the Aiilhor.]
This vahiaHe and interesting work contains Iktr* Bfill's first impressions of
South America, during a journey which occupied the five months from March
to Aui^ust 1882. He went direct from Southampton to Panama, sailetl down
the West Coast, through the Straits of Magellan, up the coast of Brazil as
for north as Pemambuco, and then home.
It will be seen that this embraces a glance at the whole or South America,
except the Orinoco region treated of by Humboldt, and the Amazons by Bate.s.
It has often been remarked that naturalists are the best writers of hcioks of travel,
because they observe more accuratt^ly, and convey iheir own impressions mom
graphically than other travellers. This work is an additional proof of the
troth of the observation. In less than 400 pages it conveys a clearer idea of
South America than the untrained traveller could give if he wrote a score of
volumes » This then is the book for the general re^ider. But the general
leader believes, with Pope, that " The proper studj' of mankind is man ; '* so
when he readies the opening chapter (p. 11), and finds the author say,
"Next to the vegetable inhabitants, 1 was interested in the black population
of the island" — he will be apt to stop short, fearing he will hear of little but
botany. But this fear would be unfounded, for Mr. Ball is better than his
word. All that is technical in his botanical work he has relegated to the pages
of the Journal of the Linncean Society. The botany in these *' Notes '* is uf
general interest, popular in style and interspersed with anecdotes. It is, for
mstance, something new about the thistle to learn that it now covers large
tracts of country in Southern Chili, because an Englishman (Query, Scotch-
jnan), under the strange delusion that it would be useful as fodder, irai>orted a
sack of the seed and sowed it broadcast.
On another i>age we read that a Penivian plant called the tupa is alleged by
the Indiana to i>roduce temporary blindness if the eyes hap|»en to be touched
after handling tne leaves of the plant. A local liotanist, Mr. Nation, pua'ly
from a love for science, verified the statement by cxfjeriment.
When Captain (afterwards Admiral) Fitstroy left York, Fuega, and Jemmy
in Tierra del Fuego, in 1834, Darwin wrote in his Journal (p. 22C) — ** I fear
it is more than doubtful whether their visit will have been of any use to them."
This sad forecast has been realised* Mr. Ball's picture of the drunkenness and
degradation of the natives in the Straits of l^IagcUan makes it clear that they
are a doomed race, nnlesa spirits be removed out of their way.
No. IV.— AriuL 1887.] " u
^a
NEW GKOGHArUlCAL I'UBLICATIONS.
It is jsluiiJiiiiit txt (urn io a cuuiitry whore our Jiiitlior Jbtiiid striking cvidcnco*
uf progress iiud civilfsatiuu — the Argentine llejmblic, for which he has invcutpd
the conijmct imd aijpropriatc name, Arij^eiitaria. I'he DKust rcuiorkablii fact its
tliu enormous stream of spontaneous imiiri;L;^ra(h.m fiowh];j; iiihj liic countr}',
chiefly from Italy. In 1875 it was, as ^imtd by Ur. Ball, 47»50O. In 1886 it
hiul increased to upwards of 100,000 per annum. As the oxistmj; i>opulation h
under 5,000,000, this repreaenta a larger ratio of increase by imnji juration than
any recorded in the history of nfttions — except, perluips, in the California^ find
Australian rush for gold ; hence the rapid proj^e-ss f>f Ar^a-ntaria in material
wealth, and the sudden dcveloproent of iigriculture in a country which, until
recently, was pnrely pastoral
WeDding his way northward, our traveller then cnterctl that paradise of the
naturalist — ^Brayib Judl^iog by bis glowing description of the marvels of tropical
nature, which, however, do not go one hairbreadth beyond the trtith, it is clear
that if Mr, Hatl bad happened to reverse the order of hia voyage, and taken
the Brazil coast first, ho would have spent his five months there, and the rest
of the *' Notes *' would have been unwritten. The world would have been so
much the poorer; but now that we have secured this book, let us boj^ that
Mr. Ball's next holiday may be «pent in Brazil, so that it may bo followed at
no distant day by one on its natural wonders, which he is so well qualified to
appreciate and deacribe.
Mr, Ball^ throughout the volume and especially iu the appendices, has eon-
tribiited much that is of ttie bitiheBt interest to the scientific geographer. The
first appendiic deals with the fall of temperature in aBceiiding to heights above
sea-leveL This is followed by another, ol special interest, in which he discuasen
some ixainta in connection with Dr, Croll's theory of secular changes in the
i;artb*s surface. While amply recognising the high value of Dr, Croirs work,
Mr. Ball indicates what he considers as one or two weaknesses in the line of
argument. One imjiortant point he indicates is that recent observations seem
to show that facts do not justify the aasumption that the average tempemtitre
of the fiouihern hemisphere is lower than that of the northern ; if there ia any
essential diflerence it is more likely to be the other way, Mr* Ball, in connection
with his very instructive isothermal map in the volume^, refers to the effect
of the so-called " Humboldt current " in lowering the temperature of the West
Coast of South America. It will, no doubt, interest him to rem! what
Mr. Buchanan says with reference to the supposed current in his paper in the
* Proceedings R.G.S,' for December 1886.— [C. M.]
[ Bolivia*] ^La Bolivie (Lettres d'un Voyageur Suisse). 8vo.
Giles, Pearce.^Tlie True Source of the Mississippi, Buffalo, N.Y,, Matthews,
Northrnp & Co., 1887 : 8vo., pp. 48.
Ihis is another contribution to the tiresome contioversy concerning the
8<3urce of the Mississippi ; it is written on behalf of Captain Glazier's claim.
Uargrff Pierre^— Mdmoircs ct DtKJuments |>our servir h I'Histoire des Origincs
Franfaisea des Pays Outrc-Mer. D^convertes et fitablissements des Franeais
dans rOuest et dans le Sud dc rAm^riqno Septentrionalo (1G83-1724)* Tome
cinquieme. Paris, Maisonneuve Freres et Ch. Leclerq, 1887 : 8vo., pp. clx* and
607. Price 20«, (Didau.)
The previous volume of this important publication was noticed in the
'Proceedings* for 1882, p, 122. The sub-title of the new volume indicates
the nature of the documents which it contains—" Premiere Formation d'unc
Chaine cle Fostes entre le Fleuve St* Laurent et le Golfc du MeiiquCt
(1683-17*.?4)." M. Margry'a Introduction shows the bearing of these docu-
ments, and gives the history of the period to which the documents refer so far
as the French in America are concerned. The first part contains contemporary
documents referring to the subject indicated by the sub-title. Besides this
there is a document by Lamotbe Cadillac on Missilimakinak (on Lake Huron)
and the countries beyond, in which the writer adduces a crowd of curious
reasons for believing that the Hurons were descendflub? of the Jews. From
the same writer there is a document on the establishment of a post on the
^ NEW GEOGRAriUCAL PUBLICATIONS. 2Go
strait (Detroit) between Lakes Huron and Erie. In the socoDd pirt we have
various letters by Juchercau de St.-Denys on the communication between
Louisiana and Canada by the affluents of the Mississippi. Part 3 contains
many oommunicationH by Lamothe Cadillac and Le Moyne de Bienville on the
establishment of* the Frcucti on the coasts of the Gulf of Mexico, and by the
latter and De Panger on the establishment of New Orleans and Balise, the
embouchure and the passes of the Mississippi.
ARCTIC.
[Jan Hayen.] — Die Internationale Polarforschung, 1882-1883. Die ijsterreichische
Polarstation Jan Mayen ausgeriistet durch seine Excellenz Graf Hanns Wilczek
geleitet vom K. K. Corvettcn Capitiin Emil Edlen von Wohlgemuth. Beobach-
tungs-Ergebnisso herausgegeben von der Kaiseilichen Akademie der Wissen-
schaften. II, Band. IL Abtheilung. [Wien] Karl Geruld's Sohn : 4t<).,
j*p. 175, diagroma. [Presented by the Imperial Academy of Sciences, Vienna.]
GENERAL.
HomniBen, Theodor* — The Provinces of the Roman Empire from Ctesar to Dio-
cletian. Translated with the Author's sanction and additions by William P.
Dickson, d.d., lud. London, Bentley & Son, 1886 : two vols. 8vo. ; vol. i.
pp. xvi. and 367 ; vol. ii. pp. [iv.] and 366. Price 36«.
These two volumes are a continuation of Monmisen's well-known History of
Rome. Apart from their great historical value, they deal so largely with the
geography of the important period which they embrace, that they will be con-
sidered a valuable acquisition by the student of ancient geography. The ten
maps by Dr. Kiepert add much to the geographical value of the volumes.
BecloSy Elisje.— The Earth, a Descriptive History of the Phenomena of the Life
of the Globe. Edited by Professor A. If. Keane. London, Virtue & Co., 1886 :
imp. 8yo., pp. xil. and 500.
_ ^ The Ocean, Atmosphere and Life. A Descriptive History of the
Fhenomena of the Life of the Globe. Edited by Professor A. H. Keane. Loudon,
Virtue & Co., 1887: imp. 8vo/, pp, xii. and 500. Price 21s. each volume.
[Presented by the Publisher.]
As there is no preface to these volumes we do not know to what extent
the reprint of the translation of M. Reel us' well-known works has been
brought up to date. So far as we can see the main addition to the volume on
the Earth is Professor Kcane's Appendix on the Progress of Recent Geogra-
phical Exploration, which is referred to neither in contents nor index. In the
next reprint some of the Alpine heights and names should be more carefully
revised. On the whole, 'The Earth' is a very full and trustworthy, as well as
eloquently written, account of the chief facts of physical geography up to the
date of M. Reclus' own revision.
To * The Ocean ' Professor Keane has been able to do much more than to
• The Earth.' The volume bears evidence of considerable research on his
]iart,and many of the results of recent ocean investigations have been embodied.
The Ocean occupies only the first section of the volume ; part ii. dealing with
the Atmosphere and Meteorology, and part iii. with Life. The two volumes, it
will be seeo, cover a wide field, and are, no doubt, intended to serve as an
introduction to M. Reclus' Universal Geography. The illustrations and maps are
as abundant and beautifully executed as in all the other works that come
from M. Reclus' hands.
[Scientific Geography.]— Zeitschrift fUr Wissenschaftliche Geographic, . . .
herausgegeben von J. I. Kettler (Weimar). Band vi. Heft 1. Weimar,
Geographisches Institut, 1887.
We are glad to welcome the revival of this important organ of scientific
geography, which has been in abeyance for some time. Dr. Kettler's colleagues
u 2
264
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
are Professors H. Fischer, A, Kirchlioff, 0. Kriimmel, J. Rein, S. Huge, M.
Schunke, and F. Wieser. The longest article in tbis number is Herr Belter's
paper on the Antarctic Question, to which wo have referred as a separate publica-
tion. Dr. 0» Kriimmel contributes a valuable paper on surface temjieratures of
the ocean, with a map. In a note on the Post and Telegraph School of Berlin
we are in formed that in the higher classes geography occupiea an important
jflace, and judging from the programme of aubjecUgi\'en it is of a very thorough
character.
Guillemaxdi F. H. H- — The Cruise of the Marchem to Kamschatka and New
rhiioea, with notices of Formosa, Liu-Kiu, and various Islands of the Malay
Archipelago. By F. IL H. Guillemard, M.A., M*i>. (Cantab.), &c. 2 vols. 8vo.,
maps, and numerous woodcuts and coloured illustrations. Murray, 1886. Price 42i,
This work will take high rank as a book of travel. The cruise of Mr, C.
T. Kettlenreir*? yacht Marchesa id the eastern Beaa, of which it is a narrative,
occupied the months from January 1B81 to April 1884, nnd appears to have
been planned ivith the design of visiting the least-frequented lands of that part
of the world, and studying their natural history and the physical and social
l>eculiorities of the native races. With excellent literary tact Dr. Guillemard
has chosen to pass lightly over, or say nothing about, places and countries
which have come within the range of the globe-trotter or have been frequently
l)efore described. Thus we are f^iiared an accoiint of the voyage out vili Suez
Canal, of Ceylon, Singapore, Java, Hong Koug, and Japan, whilst ample
space is given to the stranger region of Kamscbatka, the eastern side of Formosa,
the Sulu archipelago. North Borneo, Northern Celebes, and the western islands and
mainland of New Guinea, Many of tbe smaller islands, nnvisited by former
travellers, and erroneously laid down on the best modem charts, were more or
less carefully explored, so that tbe craise, to that extent, baa proved to lie one
of geographical discovery. Though teeming with valuable scientific informa-
tion and original observation, tbe book is most agreeable reading, any tedium
that might arise from the sameness of incidents which will sometimes occur in
the conscientiously written narrative of even the most varitd travel, being
relieve J by happy touches of humour and lucid descriptions of scenery. Tlio
work is beautifully illustrated, and tbe jdeasure and profit of reading It are not a
little enhanced by an abundance of siugle-page maps ; the cx>nvenient plan
being adopted of giving a general map, with routes, at tbe begin oii^ of each
main section of the region travelled over, and a s|)ecial map on, of course, a
much larger scale, for the separate islands or excursions. These maps, gootl
and useful as they are, might, however, easily have been made bett<.T, for in
many cases places mentionSl in the text am omitted^ rendering it difficult to
follow on the map the author's narrative.— {H. W* BJ
The following works have also been added to the Library : —
CUTZOEi [Han.] Bobert. — Visits to Monasteries in the Levant. Sixth edition.
With illustrations. London, John Murray, 1881 : cr, 8vo., pp* xx, and 373.
Barbler, J. V,— Essai d'un Lexique geographique. Paria, Berger-Levrault Sc Co.,
1880; 8vo., pp. 115, tables.
Horse, Edward S. — Ancient and Modem Methods of Arrow-Release, [From the
Bulletin of the Essex Institute, vol. xvU., Oct.-Dec., 1885.] 8vo., pp, 56,
illustrationt^ [Presented by the Feabody Academy of Science, Siilem, Mass.]
( 266 )
NEW MAPS.
CBy J. Coles, Map Curator, r.g.s.)
EUROPE.
BayeriL — ^Topographischen AUas der Eonigreich -^^^ bearbeitet im topograph.
Bureau d. K. b. Generalstabes. Scale 1 : 50,000 or 1*4 inches to a geographical
mile. Blatt 20, Bamberg, Ost— 39, ADsbach, Ost.— 40, Schwabach, Ost and
West— 60, Dillingen, West. Price Is. M. each sheet (JDulau,)
Bayern. — Positions-Karte vom E5nigreich. Bearbeitet im topograph. Bureau d. E. b.
Gencralstabes. 1 : 25,000. No. 543, Landau.— 544, Eichendorf.— 572, Simbach.—
573, AmsdorC— 602, Diepoltskirchen.— 603, Schonau.— 629, Neumarkt a/B.—
680, Massing. — 631, Eggenfelden. — 632, Wurmannsquick.— 657, Zangberg.— 658,
Mdteling. Mimchen. Price Is. 6</. each sheet {Dulau,)
Bontsehen Seiches. — ^Earte des Herausgegeben von der kartogr. Abtei*
long der KonigL Preuss. Landes-Aufnahme 1886. Scale 1 : 100,000 or 1*S geo-
graphical miles to an inch. Sheets : — 41, Wiek auf Riigen ; 90, Zinnowitz ; 518,
Tropplowitz ; 539, Ewringen ; 573, Earlsruhe ; 587, Hagenau. Price Is. 6</. each
sheet {Dtdau.)
Helgoland- — PIaq der Insel -^, von Fr. Aeuckens. Helgoland* Prioa 2s.
(J[hda%L)
Italia.— Carta del R^no d' , alia scala di 1 : 100,000 or 1 * 3 geographical miles
to an inch. Istituto geografico militare, Firenze. Sheets : — ^27, Mont Bianco ; 28,
Aosta; 41, Gran Paradise; 42, Ivrea; 43, Biella; 57, Vercelli; 66, Cesana
Torioese; 67, Pinerolo; 68, Carmagnola; 69, Asti ; 78, Argentera ; 79, Dronero ;
80, Ooneo; 81, Ceva; 90, Demonte; 91, Boves; 92-93, Abenga-Savona ; 102,
San Ramo ; 103, Porto Maurizio; 139, Aquila degli Abruzd ; 140, Teramo ; 141,
Chieti« Price Is. id. each sheet (Jhdau,)
Ihlfffiffth'PolCTl-"^^*"^^*"^^ yon , und den angrenzenden GouYemementSy
YOQa.O'Giadj. Eassel, Fischer. Price Is. {Dtdau.)
ORDNANCE BURYET MAPS.
PrtHrUfcww iMoed 4nriag tlie month of Fe1»mry IWt,
l.inch— Cknaml Maps >—
Vmciamd asd Walks: New Series. Sheets 23S, 237 (oaUine), 290 Oiills), 1«. esdi.
SamAVo : Sheeu lao. 131 (oatUne), is. M. esch.
6-iiicll— Oovn^ ]Csps>—
EMLAn> Ajn> Walks: Badfbrdahire : 26 S.W., 27 NJL. is. each. Berkshire: e, 2i. sd.
Brecknockahire : 34 ««' '- v w., 43 N,w.; it. €«dL CanabiidireshlT© : 7 S.W.,
1S&&, II &W., 15 N.W., it .^.W., itf iiK, 34 5J.K.. 6t K.fcL, t% N.W., SsW,, &7 N.W^ aW.,
C3 K.E.; U. each. Cardi^ansMre : e &W., li aW, i» EM^ II 5).W.; if, *atb. C»r-
marthODflhire: 17 N.W., N.E., S.W,S.E^ i« JI.W.. N.E. ; u^icACh. Devon^Mre : ^0 ^y^.,
13S N.W., N.K, S.W., 134 N.W.; ij; e«li. Dpraetahlre i H X\W., la s.W.. sk., it S.W..
SJL\ is. each. Qlouoestershire : 4ft aK^ T? >\u\; u.*.M£ii. HjsrefordshiT« : :!4 s.W..
31 H.W,38 K.W, N.E^ A'l N.W. ; u, eidt. Himtmjtdcmaliire : n S E.. li N.i:,j u. Mth.
liSioestttrahire: 3S SuW. ; u. I*kiodliiflliire ; li N. v^ ., N.E.. 54 S Jl, S.w^ s^E^ T2 N.t;,
fS8.W.,fSH.W.,X.E^S.n^ ^j;^ 113 SLfc:.: Ij. e»di, Merklnetliftllire : 3* S;H, :ii N>1.
SlR, 3> SwEL; Is. each. ICozunoutkBhirct : 29. 2j. &j. ; %^. is Moiitgt^mezTBMre:
3 XX, 7 H^ &E-, 11 ^.W., u EiML, ti.H, ao h\W.. VT NX, H,W.; 1*. esch. Norfolk:
SI N.W.; Is. OzfbrdsMre ; 3»^ u. e<i. K«btbiorsblT# : 34 aw^ 37 N.W.; u. ^^^ii.
Shropshire: 2« N.W, X Ji., so S,W*; l*. «^. 8omerset«liire ; *» N,W^ XIL^ W N.H,
w &lC M ji.W.; u. each. StalEDrdshire : 70 &IS.; is. Soflblk: 72 aw.; is. War-
wickshire: 15 K.£L, 20 &W, 22 M.W.; is. each. Worcestershire: 3 SJL; is.
86-ineh— FuWillaBa:^
Etclaa axd Walis: Brecknockshire: nXL 4, ii. is. XXXIX. 8. XLVL 2, at. cMdi.
Cambridgeshire: XXVLt. XLL12, UV.8.3«.Mch; LVlll. 3. &«.; Lyill.4. t. 3s. each;
LIX.i2.4s.;LJL3,3(. Carmarthenshire: XXXV. 11.3s. Devonshire : XLL 3. 7, t, 3s.
each; XIX 11« 4s.; XLL 13. 14, IS, lAL 11, CVIL 13, CYUL 4. CXIX. 1, CXXXL 1, 2. 5, 3«. CMfa;
CXXXL f, 4s; CXXXL 10, 14, CXXXIIL S, f. 10, 13. 3s. CMfa; CXXXIIL 14, U, Area Books:
BridtBenile East, Bridsenile WcaC, Is. cMh; Pprortby. 2s. Qlonoestershire : 1. 14. 4s.
Area Books: AtciiIds, is. 6d. ; Bonrton 00 the Water, Cherriastoo, Chmth looonb^ Gntt Btaiiv-
266
NEW MAPS.
loll, Hiin]wkkt% lltLn^fii It], Vt>. incli; llMrhtcy. ]t. t:tl; Ucuiuh. Uutc llUi*iu;:tuu, 1^. t:.iJLt-ii; Ktii-
Ghiukuraptori, U. 0</. ; I'l-ljwortU, tIcKtmai'ton, S<jvDiilmiijptiiii, Westcote, Wyck KLMingtuD* 1*. e«di,
Heref6rdflhlT« : 3L 12, XVIL 8. 12, XXI. 0, u, u, ^IVIL 3, XXXV. 6, 3i. wich, Lincolii-
shire : V. it, u. ; V. 16» lu, VL 0, XVJIl. 3. m, u, ie» XXXVI. 2. 3, fi, ft, io» XLV. 10, Llll. 6,
j«. 11. LXIK 1, ^jf. eftch. MontRomervBbire : VIU. 1, 2, 3. 4. a, 6, 7, 9, io» 11, 13. H, 16. itJ,
xni. 11, 12, xjv. 1. s, u. xxm. a, xxxiV. la, le. xxxv. e, xli. 3, 12, 15, le, 31. pjicii; XLVii.
4, 5f, ; XLVIL «♦ 14, a*, each. Norfolk: 1. 13, 3*.; VL I, 3, U. cvch; VI, 4, fl, 6, 7. 8, 10. U. 3i.
Mcb : VI. V\. 4«.i Vr. 14, 15, 16, Vll. 1, a, 5, 6, 3», eacli ; X. 1, 4*,; X. 2, 6, 6, 9, 3*. i-acii; X. 13,4*. ;
X. 14, 3j. ; XL 1 anJ 5 on one eibeet, fiji. ; XI. 6. 7, P. 10, ll, 5».; XI. 12, 14* 15, 10, XO. 9 a«*l 13 on
«iuesli(>et, a*.s XVII, lu, 4*. Are* Bookis: AlderToitl, Bri*ley, Bcirlinjfbutn St. Peter, H»>rnijifl;to(l,
IJmppnl^nc, Litcbium, Ef?(?dLiuu, SparljAm, Swanlngton, 'TbelveUm, Ti)arp« Abboia, TlbeBlimiu,
Tlttleftbiill, Tivet&bK^ll, Wiwtoi. WhbwnwLt, WiiifjinlilnR ; ix. wch. Northampton: III. i«,
IX, 6, XXXIX. 4, a, XLV. 2, 13, 3*. ej*ch. Area Houkj: Jiiltun. Sulgruv^ VVliUtwi; U. each.
Somersetshire: LXIL i, s*, j LXIl. 4, 4*. ; LXII, 6. 5*.; LXII. 7, 4*,; LXII. ii, 12, 3t. ea. U ;
l.XJI. 1:1, 4ji,| LXII. 1(5, LXllI. 11, 12* 14. 3*. eicb. AreftBuolcj!: Ikirrow Guniev, Cofnpiuu IluinK
Norton Mftlrtward; 1*. ejicb. StaffonUhlre : LXtL 13, 6t. ed.; LXVIJ. 1, 3<. Suffolk:
L3£XL m. LXX1X» 4, 8, 4f. CAcb; LXXIK, 1«. 3«. Area Books; tombs, Elmfleit, Elmiwtll. I^'ritu-n.
Ore4i AfthacitI, HeiTin^eet>U*Trinfr«welLWGolnIt; 1«. euch. Warwickshire: XXXIS. Si. Ki.
XLIIL 1, B, 7, 10, 13, 3*. tadj; XLIIL H, -*«.; XLV. 2,3f.; XLV, fi. 4*. 1 LI. 1. 2, 6, B^ 1.1, 14, LJl.
10. LIV. 16, ai. each. Wiltshire: XXVIH. 1, 2, 34. each; XXXIL 4. 4».; XXXVL !i fi. 9.
XXXVJII. 3, 10, 12, 16. XL. 1, 3#. each; XL. 8, 14, 4*, each; XLI. 1. 2, 3#. Pincb ; XLL 4, 4r ; XLI.
R, 7, 8, 10, 13, 15, XLll 2, «. 14, XLVL 3, 4, 6, 8, 7, H, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, Ifi, LIIL L5.«.'. 10, IL 1<1. '5^.
nuch. Woroeatershtre : XXllL 3. 4, 3ju e^ich ; XXVIIL 11, 4*, j XXXVL 13. XL 10. XL^ , 1.
1 3, 3*. PAcb. Area Buokj 1 Birtnawrton, Gre*t and little HainpUm j U, eadi.
Town Plana — lO-feetwale: —
KMfiiJkKD AND Wxlka: AUTTetwItb, VI. Q, s. 12 and 13, 14, IS, 19, 12, 23, 24 { VL13. 3, 4, 8; 2r.
Bach. Bradford-on-Avon. XXXIL 14. 13, U. Ifl; 2*. each. Trowbridge. XXXVIIL 7* ft. 9, 10. 1 ».
14. IG, 1«, 19, JO, 2J, 24,26 ; XXX VilL 8. fi, U ; XXX VIU. 11* 3, 4, 51 31. «ftcb, Wchi Hmmwlcli,
J JtVlll. 14, X 4p lu i LXVUL 15* 1. 6 ; 2i. each.
(^Btayi/ord, J[ietiL)
ASIA*
Asien*— "tJebersichts-Karto der etlmographijscljen Terhaltnisse von , und voa
(leu angrenzeoden Tlieikn Euroim's. Bearbeitet auf Grand lage von Fr. Mullefs
AUgemeiner Etlinographie und herausgegebon mit Uoterstiitzung der kaiseiiicken
Akademie der Wi«seiischaften in Wien von Vinzenz v. HaardL Aiisgefuhrt im
j/eograpliiiclieii Institute v. Bd, Hiilzel in Wien. Scale 1:8,000,000 or 109".^*
geographical railea to an inch. Wien, 1887. Im Selbst-Verlnge des Verfassersi.
Fiir den Buchbandcl in Commission bei Ed, Holzel in Wieii, 6 sheets. Price
1/,105. (Sianford.)
Tills impoftant map exhibits the distribution of the varioun races of men
iDhabiting the oontineni of Asia and Western Europe, The difficulty which
invariably presents itself when it is desired to illustrate graphically tlie
details of any large subject^ in consequence of the number ol' shades of colour
which have to be employed, has been overcome in tho present instance by the
judicious system adopted by the author, which b as follows;— Each different
shade represents some great division of the human race, the subdivisions uf
which are indicated by numerals placed on the colours used for the w^hole race.
Ill all cases where the same tint extends over any krge area the name of the
jjcople is given in addition to the colour. Altogether the arrangtment appears
lo be good, and enables any one, with the aid of the very clear explanations
t^iven wilh the index, to see what special race of men inhabits any particular
district contained within the limits of the map. Tlie author informs us in the
titie that this map is based on Fr, Muller s * Allgemeiuer Ethnographie,* aLd
great credit is duo to Ilerr Vinzenz v. Haardt for the admirable manner in
which he has placed before the student the information contained in that work.
Tho scale is sufiiciently large to admit of a fair umoiint of detail j it is well
executed, and cannot fail to be of valuo to all who may be interested in ethno-
!ogi«il 8 todies*
Indian Government Surveys:—
Indian Atlas, 4 miles to an inch. Qunrter Sheets : 32 N.W, Parts of Bick-
aneer Native State (Kajputana Agency). 3D S.W, Parts of Districts AhmetU
11 agar, Kolaba, Poona, Satara, and of Bhor Native State (Bomkiy Presidency).
40 N.E. Parts of Districts Sholapur, Kaladgi, Satara, Kolhapur and Poona
(Bombay Presidency), and Paranda Circar (Niauim's Dominions). 07 K.E, Parts
of Bareilly, KumauD, Tarai and rilibhit (N,W. Provinces), and Nepal (Native
NEW MAPS. 267
State). — India, 1883, 80 miles io an inch. 2 sheets. — ^Trigonometrical Branch,
Survey of India. EiLthidwar, 1 mile to an inch. Sheet No. 6 (2nd edition).
Seasons 1863-64, 1867-68. Parts of Gohelvdd and Ahmedahad. No. 7 (2nd
edition). Seasons 1863-64-66-67 and 1867-68. Part of Gohelvdd. No. 12
(2nd edition). Season 1868-9. Part of Jhilivdd. No. 15 (2nd edition).
Seasons 1866-67 and 1867-68. Parts of Gohelv^ and N. Kathiawar. No. 16
(2nd edition). Seasons 1866-67 and 1868-69. Parts of Kdthidwar, Gohelvad,
and Undsarvaiya. No. 26 (2nd edition). Seasons 1870-71. Parts of Kdthidwdr,
and Gohelvdd. N6. 27 (2nd edition). Seasons 1870-71. Parts of Edthidwar
and Gohelvdd. No. 28 (2nd edition). Seasons 1870-71. Parte of Sorath,
Kathidwdr, Gohelvdd, and Bdbridvdd. No. 32 (2nd edition). Seasons 1873-74.
Parte of Halar and Machhu-Kdnta. No. 33 (2nd edition). Seasons 1873-74.
Parte of Hdldr, Machhu-Ednta, and Jhdldvdd. No. 43. Seasons 1874-75. Part
of Hdldr. No. 52 (2nd edition). Season 1878-79. Part of Hdldr. No. 53 (2nd
edition). Seasons 1878-79. Part of Hdldr. — ^Trigonometrical Branch, Survey of
India. Sheet No. 15 of Gujardt (2nd edition). Scale 1 inch to a mile. City
of Surat, with portions of ite CoUectorate, and parts of the Baroda and Sachin
States. Seasons 1876-77. — Gujardt Survey, 1 mile to an inch. Seasons 1883-84
and 1884-85. Sheet No. 184. Parte of the Baroda State, and of the Rewa
Eantha Agency. — Oudh Revenue Survey, 1 mile to an inch. Seasons 1860 to 65.
Sheete No. 136. Districte Lucknow, Unao, Bae Bareli, and Bara BankL No. 150.
Districte Barabanki, Fyzahad, Sultanpur, and Kae Bareli. No. 164. Districts
Sultenpur and Fyzabad. — Punjab Survey, 1 inch to a mile. Seasons 1853 to SG.
Sheete Nos. 147, 148, 149, 150, 170, 171, 172. 173, 175, 194, 195, 196, 197, 198,
2ll, 212. District Montgomery. Sheet No. 251. Districte JuUundur and
Ludhiana, and Eapurthala Stete. Season 1884-85. — Bengal Survey, 1 inch to a
mile. Seasons 1857 to 69. Sheete Nos. 295, 296, 316, 317, 318, 337. District
Jalpaiguri. — ^Mysore Topographical Survey, 1 inch to a mile. Season 1883-84.
Sheete Nos. 60 and 61. Parte of Districte Bangalore and Mysore. District Eoliat.
1880-81-82-83. Scale 4 miles to an inch.— District Lohardugga, Chote Na;;-
poor, 4 miles to an inch. 1874. 4 sheets. {Stanfordy Agent,)
AUSTRALASIA,
Qaeendand. — ^Map of , illustrating ite Mineral and other Productive Capa-
bilities. Scale 1 : 3,504,000 or 48 geographical miles to an inch. Printed and
Published at the Surveyor-Greneral's Office, Brisbane, 1886.
Smnatra* — Kaart van het Eiland en den Riouw-Archipel. Scale 1 : 1,500,000
or 20*4 geographical miles to an inch. Zamengesteld door W. J. Havenga
voormalig Chef van den Topographischen dienst in Nederlandsch-Indie, 1886.
G. Eolff en Co., Batovia ; Institut National de Gdographie, Bruxelles. (Dulau,)
• This is a beautifully executed map, on which the topography of the island
of Sumatra is very clearly shown, and all details, such as means of communica-
tion by land and sea, are laid down. The towns and villages are distinguished,
according to their importence, by symbols, and the boundaries of the several
R^idencies are given. The map is a fine specimen of cartography, but it
would have been better if the coast-line had been marked in a more decided
manner.
Tarawera Volcano, Hew Zealand.— Plan of the Seat of Eruption, 10th June,
1886. Scale 80 chains to an inch, Surveyor-General's Office, Wellington, 188(J.
{Jhdau.)
208 ^^^^ KEW MAPS.
ATLASES,
Bacon, 0- W,, F.E.G.S.— New Completo Atkaof the Worlds containing atl Ihel
latest GeograpWcal Disooveriea tlironghout the various Countries of tho World,]
with General Deccriptioo, Alpliabetical Index, and Gazetteer of 1000 principal |
towns. London : edited and publislied by George Bacon, f.b.o^s. Price 2L 15«.
This Atlas is for the most part composed of the maj^s of the " DispatcliJ
Atlas/* which was published about thirty years aga Attccnpta have been madal
to correct these and bring them up to date, but an experienced eye will at oncaj
detect many errors and omissions. The most accurate portion of the Atlas i
the manner in which the railroada have been bid down, but even in this respect J
there are serious errors, as for instanco in the case of ranps 101 and 102, on onoT
of which the Northern Pacific Bail way, which has been working thniuj^jh fori
some years, is said to be a proposed line, and on the other the Canadian P^icifiaj
Raiiway is shown aa incomplete. The topography is very poorly shown and"
contains numerous mistakes, some of the geography laid down being that
l^iven in the original mafjs, eadii biting tho state of our knowledge thirty years
ago.
BergliailS' Physikaliacher Atlaa (begriindet 1836 von Heinrlch Berghaus),!
75 Kartcn in sieben Abteilungen, en thai tend mehrerc hundert Darstellungeal
liber Geologie, Hydrographie, Meteorologic, Erdmagnetisraus, Pflanzenverbrettung, '
Tiervcrbreitimg nnd Volkerknnde. VoUstandig neu bearbeitet nnd untcr
Mitwirknng von Dr. Oscar Drnde, Dr. Georg Gerland, Dr. Julius Hann, Dr. G, i
Hartlaubj Dr, W. Marshall, Dr. Georg Neumayer, nnd Dr. Karl v. Zittel, herau»-l
gegcbeo von Professor Dr. Ocrmann Berghans. Achtc Lieferung, Inhalt: Nr. 30,
Isotbermen von Eurupa, Nr, -10, Flurenkarto von Afrika nnd Auatralien.
Nr. 57, Amphibien und Fischc. Qotha, Justua Perthea, 1887- Price 3i. each
part. (Bidau.)
British Empire. — The Colonial and Indian Atlas of the . W* & A. K,
Johnston, Edinburgh and London, 1887. Price 5s.
This atlas consists of twenty-nine shceti of mapa, fiooe of which ara far
superior to any that have been prtxiuccd in the cheaper claas of English atlases, of
which so many have been published during the past and present year. The eight
maps of the Indian Empire arc specially worthy of notice, and appear to have
been taken from the Royal Atlas. The maps of Canada and Australia are alao
good, evident care having l>een taken to use the beat and most recent materiala
in their construction ; th*.^ Kimc remark applies to the smaller and inset mapA,
Though not i>art of the British Empire, the wellH^xocuted plan of the SnezOinal
which is given, is a very useful addition to the Indian and Colonial maps which
this class of atlas usually contain. As the expense of mounting full-page
maps on guards would have considerably added to the cost of production, and
consequently have raised the price, a system of dividing the nrnps by a blank
inargiii in the centre has been adopted, by which m^ns the whole of the map
is open lo view instead of being hidden in the oentrCj as it would be if this
precaution had not been taken*
EDUCATIONAL.
PalestiB€. — Pictorial Map of Palestiue, giving a birdVeye view of the Holy Land,
and showing the jieculiar features of tho country, Jordan valley, the Ravines and
Towns. Important events indicated by distinctive marks. By Frances H» Wood,
Size 68 inches by 34 inches. Mounted on linen and varnished, with roller and
Handbook, Price 9«. dd. To be obtained ^ post free, from tlie author, Beckenham,
Kent.
This would more proj)erly have been called a picttire than a map. It is
very misleading as regards vertical scale, and though it might convey to the
mind of a child some general notion of the positions of places* of interest, it
would at the aame time give very false ideas aa to the magnitude of the area
embraced, and suffacc conditions of the country. It may also be remarked
that the lettering is very indistinct.
■ ^ . i -*r
PKOCEEDINGS
OF THE
KOYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
AND MONTHLY RECORD OF GEOGRAPHY.
Tlie Alpine Begions of Alaska.
By Lieut. H. W. Seton-Karr.
(Bead at the Evening Meeting, March 14th, 1887.)
Map, p. 330.
Alaska, or the north-west comer of North America, was bonght from
Bnssia by the United States twenty years ago. It is bordered on the
east by British territory, and extends from 55° north latitude far into
the Arctic Zone and offers one of the best regions for the study of the
formation, movements, and extent of glaciers, especially that part of it
which we visited and explored for the first time.
Having left England lasit April for the purpose of visiting these
alpine regions, I found on reaching Victoria another expedition bound
for the same spot, namely. Mount Saint Elias, and was allowed to join the
party. It was equipped by the Neio York Times, and consisted of Lieut.
F. Schwatka and Professor Libbey, jun., of Princeton College, N.Y.
On the conclusion of this expedition, I went on alone to the north
and west, instead of returning by the United States man-of-war which
came back for us in September; and I found that the glaciers were
quite as extensive on the west of Mount St. Elias as they are on the
east of it, while one of immense extent, near Cape Suckling, was named
the Great Bering Glacier, this being the portion of America which that
explorer first sighted.
Having now returned from my six months' exploration, and as the first
traveller in the footsteps of Cook to make a complete circuit of this coast
from St. Elias to Prince William Sound and thence to the westward, my
impressions have been, that the St. Elias alpine region offers one of the
best places for the study of glacial phenomena under the most powerful
conditions. The air is warmed and charged with vapours by the Pacific
currents, including the Kuro Siwo or so-called Japan current. It is
suddenly confronted by a vast range of mountains rising directly from
the ocean's edge. The result is a snowfall unusually heavy, and the
No. v.— I^Lly 1887.] x 2
THE ALPINE REGIOKS OF ALASKA.
thickest and moat extensive glaciers after those of Greenland or the
Arctic regions.
Along the whole of this difficult coast, bordered aa it is by a
gigantic wall of icy mountains facing the sea and rising abruptly
from its brink, from the end of the Inland Passage at Cape Spencer as
far as Prince William Sound, there are only two spots where any shelter
exists with a safe landing-place all the year ronnrl^ — ^namely Yakatat
Tillage and Kaiak. But at seYen other points the Indians can land
during the fine summer months, namely, at Lituja Bay, at Dry Bay, at
the river near it, at the head of Yakatat Bay, at Icy Bay, at Cape Yagtag,
and at a reef near Icy Cape,
None of the old navigators saw the true character of tbo flat broad
plains which border this coast. To the east of Yakatat Bay, and to the
east of Icy Bay, there exist small areaa of flat land which are covered
with a forest of spruce and cedar. But every other plain or flat expanse
conaists of ice, and is covered with stones and moraines. In other words,
the country that intervenes between the range of the St. Elias Alps
and the sea (from Cross Sound to the Copper river) with the exceptions
I have mentioned, consists entirely and exclusively of glaciers and
nothing else. The terminal moraines of these glaciers are so gigantic
and extensive that the ice itself lies huiied under millions of tons and
hundreds of iMjuare miles of loose rocks and atones which it has carried
down with it from the mountains in its slow and gradual advance.
Large aa are these moraines the bare ice is correspondingly immense in
its extent. What we named the Great Agassiz Glacier is probably about
600 square miles in extent, and ita momines between one and two
hundred ; and what wo named the Great Gnyot Glacier, on the west
of it, is of quite unknown extent. Where it projects into the sea the
ice cliff*e are 300 feet high. This forms Icy Ciipe. We saw no icebergs
here, probably because the current carries to the westward the masses
that fall off into the sea.
Vancouver described tho coast between Yakatat Bay and Icy Bay as
" a barren country composed of loose stones,** No one could have guessed,
without landing, that all these loose stones were the moraines of the
glaciers which lay beneath them. But when we landed at Icy Bay and
inspected ihe so called barren country, it was seen that below tho stones
and rocks there lay solid ice riinging from three or four hundred feet in
thickucsa in some placca to six or seven hundred feet in other places.
These moraines or accumulations of imbble and stones upon the surface
of the ice at Icy Bay change and move with the ice so slowly, that parts
are covered with brush and thicket of great density— so dense that it
cost us many hours of labour to cross a mile of it.
La Ptirouse, too, like all the navigators who have sailed along this
coast, mistook the true nature of what he saw. Ho thought tho ice,
where it protruded from under the stones, was snow lying upon the
THE ALPINE REQIONS OF ALilSKA. 271
ground. He wrote that *' masses of snow covered a barren soil unem-
bellished by a single tree ; this plain, black as if burned by fire, was
totally destitute of verdure."
Forty miles W.N.W. from Cape Phipps lies Capo Sitkagi, which is
the Pointe de la Boussole of La P6rouse. Vancouver's Cape Bion, about
15 miles N.W. by W. of it, is the Low Cape of Tebenkoff.
Icy Bay is merely a shallow crescent in the coast-line, though
Tebenkoff marks 12 and 15 fathoms, and 5 fathoms at the head at a
point on the chart which is now many miles from the sea, and consists
of the gravelly and partially dry estuary of the river.
Mount St Elias (according to Prof. Davidson's * Coast Pilot of
Alaska ') lies in lat. 60° 22' 6", and long. 140° 54'. Dall, the American
surveyor, makes it 19,500 feet high ; the Admiralty chart, 14,975 feet ;
the Bussian chart, 17,854 feet; Grewink, 16,754 feet; and D*Agelet,
12,672 feet. It is thus one of the few mountains whose height
exceeds the first estimations. It is said to have been in eruption in
1837 and 1847. If this be true, the eruption could hardly have
issued from the summit, which is a sharp rocky peak, but rather
finom what much resembles an old crater on its south-east base, and
which the maze of crevasses on the glacier prevented our approaching ;
but we found no traces of volcanic action. In the Beport of the U.S.
Coast Survey Mr. Ball says, ** After a thorough search I have been able
to find no trustworthy account of any eruption." St. Elias is, I believe,
the Bussian patron saint of thunder, which, strangely enough, is very
rarely heard in the neighbourhood of Mount St. Elias. The massiveness
of the peak made it appear to me not to be higher than 15,000 feet.
The breadth of its form and the high mountains behind it have perhaps
been the cause of its height having been underestimated* St. Elias has
thus undergone promotion. Mount Hood, in Oregon, has suffered from
treatment the very contrary, because it stands alone. It was originally,
by a *^ rough " estimate, 17,000 feet high (I quote from an article in The
Tme$y A ^^ close" estimate made it 16,000 feet. Some measurements
by angles dropped it to 14,500 feet, and a triangulation to 13,000. The
first aneroid taken up was said to have made it 12,000 feet, and after-
wards a mercurial barometer brought it out 11,225 feet; so that if
these reducing processes go on. Mount Hood may, in the words of a
j^oneer of that r^ion, ** finally become a hole in the ground."
The scene or view of the St. Elias range from Takatat is one of the
most wonderful in the world. Mount St. Elias, hitherto considered the
liigliaat mountain in North America, stands upon the ocean's edge, from
which it rises sheer to 20,000 feet — a mass of snow and ice from base to
summit — the longest snow-climb in the world short of the Antarctic
r^pons. Its summit has always been marked in modem maps (though not
in that of Tebenkoff^ which has formed the basis of all these maps) as
exactly on the 141st meridian, which is the boundary line, as thou|^ two
272
THE ALPINE REGIONS OF ALASKA,
jmtions were chary of claiming a summit which belongs to one of them ;
and what is more curious still, ae exactly 10 leagues from the nhore. This
was the extreme limit to which the narrow etrip of coast called South-
east Alaska could extend inland. If the summit of the watershed came
witliin that distance, the Ixiundary was to follow that. If the shore-line
has been correctly charted, I found that the summit was east of the
meridian of longitude just mentioned. It was also more than ten
leagues from the shore-line of Icy Bay. Mount St, Elias is therefore in
the British Empire, It is to be supposed, as a San Franciscan officer
remarked to me, that war will not ensue with reference to this question.
Vancouver (July 1704) writes : ** At eight in the evening, Mount St.
Elias bore by compass N. 73^^ W., and Mount Fairweather, N, 10'' K
The length of time we had been in sight of these very remarkable lofty
monntains afforded ns man}^ observations for ascertaining their situation,
whence the former appeared to be in latitude 60^ 22i', longitude
219^ 21'. Until past eleven at night. Mount St, Elias was yet within our
visible horizon, appearing like a lofty mountain ; although at this time
it was at a distance of one hondred and fifty geographical miles.'^ This
IB in longitude 140° 39' W. from Greenwich, and more than thirty
miles from the sea. We left Sitka on July lOtb, in the U,S. man-of*war
P/tifa, for the Indian village in Yakatat Bay. We reached it on the
12th. There is a small landlocked harbour here ; five Indian houses
form the village. After waiting here for four days, trying to hire a
large canoe, the vessel took us to the foot of St. Elias. Besides two
white men and an Indian interpreter we had hired from Sitka, three
Indians were brought from Yakatat, making a total of nine persons. ■
Wo were landed on July 17th, at Icy Bay, But not without
difficulty, for the snrf on this coast is heavy and constant. On the
beach were an immense numl>er of bear tracks ; one of our men, who
stayed at the base camp, killed three of these animals, while we saw
another in the very heart of the ioy region. A number of immense
torrents reach the sea all along this coast. There are at least three
between Point Riou and Point Sitkagi. So large is the body of fresh
water brought from the glaciers by these torrents, that the sea is
fresh on the surface and fit for drinking more than a mile from
shore, notwithstanding the constant and strong current which sets from
the eastward. Bat the extent of the glaciers, whose melting produces
all this fresh water, is also immense. From the highest point attained
in our ascent of St. Elias, nothing could be seen in thedietatice but plains
of ice, much more extensive than I had ever seen before. The largest of
these rivers issues from under the ice which has bridged it over, ov buiied
it, just at the meeting of the Guyot and Agassis Glaciers. It was called
the Jones river; and up this river wo had to mako our way on the
19th of July. This river spread out into a fan*like delta, the apex of
which was near what looked like a green wooded hill, which had
I
THE ALPINE REGIONS OF ALASKA. 278
a curiously aneven outline like the teeth of a saw. Meanwhile, we woro
almoet constantly wading in ice-cold water, and some quickHuiidH had to
be crossed, than which there is, I suppose, no sensation more unpleasant.
It seemed as though an elastic crust of glacier mud were floating on a
liquid mass below, and might break and let one in at any moment.
But when at last this occurred to one of us, he sank, Uj our n;lief,
no farther that his middle, saying he had struck bed-rock, or more
probably the bed of the stream. About five in the afternoon we were
near enough to the green hill (as we had thought it to be^ to discorer
that it was nothing more nor less than a very large glacier, which we
named, as I have said, the Agassiz Glacier, its front part being quite
buried under enormous quantities of moraine, and overgrown with birch
and willow. Large streams welled up from between the rocks at itJi frx/t«
one of which we named the Fee Uiver. This huge moraine must be fnus
of the most extraordinary in the world. A great thickness of ice lies
buried underneath it. It is now advancing faster than it can melt
away, for the forest is being gradually swept down before it.
After waiting for two days in order to bring up more supplies, we
started onee more, and afier penetrating for a mile through the thick
bmahwood on the moraine, we found that Tegetati/jn ceased alt/igether^
leaTing nothing but hillocks of stones heaped together cm the ice, and
more or leas oompacted by a;^e.
The moniBes of the Great Agassiy Glacier were mostly composed of
gnnite, and those of the Great Gnyot Glacier <d *Lae. A wid6 depression
in the glacier marks their line of pmctir/iL, nnder which« nnmp^ai and
unheard, &ws the great r.ver.
A% dnik we were OTorsght to a standsiill >>y a large lake fX0renA with
icabcrga, wiu^ we nam&l after the Presi'iebt of the Italian Geo^p'Sk-
phicni Sociecy tCasf mi/, Bey-Ad h lay a nn^e ^A iJii^ whifii we suuned
the ClMix HiHa, after the veneiabLe dwiia profta^/r of girigrafphy^ At
this point, one ai tfie party g»^ti&;^ knt detaintd im if/r two days. This
wns caap r.mrJf^r Hirt^ Prr>fs29tt.>r Libcey ikad thoa;paa tics iar^e lake
conid <»kT Ift pHsed t,j viz be^in^ to the east. I f^jmiAanA iith weat
b> he the uaei wisj. We botii tiierifore le^ ont in opf^ucte dir>i^rt>.i«ji t//
Bnke tpss^ Tut ^z^/jba/^r^ as I bare saiL wm lad^xmsjMkj ^Ciseft.t l>r
two ^Tft witLom btix^ a^«u& v^ isiA a f r^tkahie r^ite. ISnx iai0saa:tM^.
I hnd iioaii a wvy '^c ^> tai*: « Jlaix fiilk. TiJt way aj aer^isa a ffkteh
cc finaiFr wofi^ saxner.^ecilj aKaaae ac. ittadvi, Mt wsift& wimc I £/»t
iiMBii ii was ace ao. jt^iSksA a: a. L •>& <»i& tiie i: waa 'v«f:>t9i^ c^ t&^
ke-<afii ^ lae z^itdifs^ soaI ^jSi^SLt^ Mouxr^a^^ u!iC w€f»L ii aiui t^ C&asx
fiui* cic a ar:aii ^iik^ :c £::a.7-ii. ^i£<e ta^ itaoLp Mi c^ a 'jxn» rrr^x. or liikie
}flrt «if tje ir.c^ ju. '.^ liLft jaict;. "lixj!: 'w:^uiz% \t mzcjx. ift^Au»ii to id(7^ mJk
aescw -aiicr tiiauil Iti-r^L L«sa -Ui*a tw*tLt7-i-,n3 oi-^crs la6*r taos n-Ter-
3«ii — dsr flbiiL ri wm — isni «?T*E»ft =.7 3', i*^ ',*f aii^ity vai«sv nwuji^r
e fC4!efL ^jsMujli!^ wiszk 5: aotfier]^ smi cdmsl A kry;
274
THE ALPINE REGIONS OF ALASKA.
cham of lakes hai been dammed up and had Immt loose again. Tlie fires
we had made along ita banks to guide the lust one hack to camp had
set the email forest ablaze*
The ice was j^radually advancing, and the pin© trees were in process
of being mowed down by the advancing glacier and ground up into
Kiere heaps of matchwood. Three destmctive agenciee were tbns at
work at the same time within a yard or two of each other — fire, water,
and ice. This breaking loose of the river accounted for the marks of
sudden risings and fallings in the water-level on the distant flat-land of
ley Bay, whei-e the vast mud-flats were always damp^ as if from
periodical inundations.
Our Doxt dny'a march took us right to the base of Mount St. Elias, up
a great glacier descending from the face of tbe moontainj which we named
the Tyndall Glacier. The mocdsains of our lodians were now for the
geoond time worn out. But in any case they would have refused from
superstitious fear to proceed with us any farther.
At half- past four next morning, we left our fifth and last camp
for the final ascent. The party then consisted of LieuL Frederick
Schwatka, Joseph Woods (one of our two hired men) and myself. As
the only one with any alpine experience, I tied Mr, Schwatka in the
centre of the rope, and Woods and myself at the ends. As we
jipproached the great bend and ioe-fall of the Tyndall Glacier, the
crevasses became oovered with fresh snow. Mr, Schwatka*s great
weight-=eighteen stone — would bave made it very difficult for us had
any of the snow bridges over the crevasses given way, and as it drew on
towards midday these became quite soft.
We were now aiming for one of the bare rocky ridges wliich descend
direct from the upper snow-fields. We soon found wo were wasting
much valuable time in trjdng to thread the labyrinth of crevasses
without advancing at all nearer to the peak itself, which now was
clouding over. Only one day s provisions remained. This was hardly
enough even for an immediate return. We now felt the consequences
of our delay of two days during the loss of Prof. Libbey. If the snow
over any of the fissures had given way under Mr. Schwatka, we might
have had very gre^t difficulty in raising him to the surface again.
With a couple of Swiss guides, and a whole fortnight, or even a week,
at one's disposal, a great height would have been attained, if not the
oon(|Uest of the actual summit. The state of the weather, and the time
thai would be wasted in passing the icefall, compelled us at last
to attack the rocky ridges of the west spur, which seemed to present no
difficulties which we could not overcome. Mr. Schwatka was unable,
through illness, to ascend beyond a certain point, but I continued the
ascent up a steep arete.
At a height of 6500 feet I could see the country to the north-west
and south-east. It consisted entirely of plains of ice. Above the height
THE ALPIXE EEGK)5S OF ALASKJL 275
of 6900 feet I was in the donds, and tlierefere saw nothing. It was
only obrkyos that the summit of the ridge was reached hy the fact that
the ground in front commeneed to fall awav to the westward.
It was now afaont six in the erening, and I was alrjne upon the
summit of the western ridge or spur of Hoont St. Elias.
As shown hy aneroid, the altitode was 14d0 feet abore where I had
left Mr. Schwatka, who had retained one of the two large mercurial
Dtain faaraneters. Pnxfeasor Libbej was meanwhile making simnl-
( oliservmtioiis below at oar fourth camp, with the secxmd of these
large instruments. The readings were afterwards connected with those
at the base camp at lej Baj, and gare for the point I had reached a
total hei^t of 7200 feet abore the sea-lereL To tnrene the ridge
itself towards the main peak was impracticable. The onljr thing thai
remained was to retrace one's steps and rejoin the other two who were
waiting befew. It was claimed in Xew York papers that this was the
highft dimb above the snow-lerel hitherto recorded. AimI where is the
fliow4evel oo Mount St. Eilas t If the snow-line is defined as the Hani
downwards of the region of perpetnal snow — in other wc«ds^ as the
he^t abore the se^-lerd below which all the snow that fells ammally
melts dnring snmmer — ^then we were of opimon that the snow-line on
thesoathmdeof St. Elias is obIt 400 feet abore the se»-leTeL Itrsonlj
€B the coast that there exists sach a hcarj snowfelL The sMith-east
winds are the rain-winds^ Here the moistare thej bear is
and precipitated fer the first tiaae. Farther inland the hsmiditj ]
be less.
It woajd pn>faaUT be below iLt mark to nimf two thriasind fear
handred i^iiuOj •jaare miles as the area of the fiat glacaezs whidi boaibl
the nnaar between Croas Soand and the CopfKr rirer, < n law re of tha
^Mwrfiflis id the mage, or the inland giariffm.
I wvaid dastzibate this area as kmkmm : — 7'» iqaare aulea butatta
Cross Soasd azhd Yakatat, 7-» theaee to St. £uai» aad lOW bttamm
St. £2ias and the Copper rrrer.
At maaigai <m tAe »xk Jahr w^ tried to leare 1st Baj to recarm
to Yakataz xa oar wulfr-boat, wxath utlcakged to ik^ Pa^m^ Bat the
caif was too hesTj. aikd we were awaaiped at mtdr^igrri. The daikataa
cf the xigxit asbd tiie €T.nhnaiTig fridwai of Vbfc water <4f Ifj Baj ^Mtfi
The feik^wz&g engirt or mhrr at eariy dawx oii ikjk !«: of Aagaal,
■ L am ■iiMiiaafil jit Making gar vmruyt firjm Ivj Baj, tMagii at ihe etat
cf ahsEndosiiig Tuemt <£ tiie hsig^fe^ We atsLi xi«e litcann tmoL fer
tMse -"'^t.fm laser ca. Tic^ sarrmrnifiT iii tmtj^j^z i^i'saoL awax in mrrtfa
^B- — r'''"**f vjoitt weekft ijr iii!: aaif to aalandp
The vjm wiik& laifl uea k£i wixii as vr tiie U^ msai-<iif-«ac^ aias
la w^aj isfiirT tii& 'jms^ woA itssmrj fur idxxe subl l> C2a^ wigtm JX
WitttfiEX aadae dtttsj- is wxaud ittve hfc&
276
THE ALPINE REQIOKS OF ALASKA.
impossible to procure a large caucxj from the Yakatat Indiana^ and
althoui^iL we waited for several days in hope of doing so, the result
only served to strengthen the impression we bad formed of this tribe,
and to emphasisG the oft-repeated advice, that a sporting or exploring
party should have the ability to render themselvcB independent of
their assistance.
It should be mentioned that we found Icy Baj^ a shallow iodentation
in the coast-line, quite xm deserving in every way the name of a bay, and
with nu protection even in the mildest weather from the long curling
breakers that sweep in from the wide racific. It was almost tho only
thing which the natives had told tho truth about ; though from their
evident desire to exaggerate eveiy obstacle we had not i)laoed much
faith in their representations.
The man-of-war returned, as promised, early in September. Mean-
while, a Hmall trading schooner had called, belonging to four Swedes
who had settled on Xaiak Mand for the purpose of hunting sea-otters.
There are many places^ especially near the Aleutian Islands^ where
Scandinavian hunters have made a temporary abmle. They form the
finest race of settlers that can anywhere be found.
I left the expedition at Yakatat, and on the 9th of August, I
started on a journey to the north and west in this small schooner U)
Kaiak Island, and from thence in a canoe by the Copper river to Prince
AVilliam ijound. When I left Yakatat and Bailed westward I had thought
that Icy Cape was the last great glacier which reached the sea from the
8t, Elias Alps* But 1 found that a plain of ice as large or larger than
the Agassiz Glacier exists to the eastward of Cap© Suckling, which I
named Great Bering Glacier-
After sta3'ing with these hospitable Swedes on Kaiak Island, I went
on in a large Cduoe, accompanied by two of the Swedes, an Indian
medicine-man, and three Indians^ to reach Cape Martin, the east
corner of the great estuary or delta of the Copper river* Here, just as
at Yakatat, is an Indian village, where a strong spirit is distilled from
sugar. The whole village was drunk, and tho inhabitants veiy rude
and boisterous. After a considerable delay we sncoeeded in getting
away from them. Wo next beached the canoe not far to the west-
ward, and dragged it over the sandbars into the tidal lagoons of tho
Copper river, A vaat expanse of mud was found, over which it was
easy to drag the canoe with small fatigue. When the tide rose, recourse
waa had to paddling.
From our camp on the 23rd of August, 1880, on an island in the
centre of the tidal lagoons of the Copper river estuary, a wide panorama
was spread out before us. Northward tho eye plunges for 50 miles into
a valley from which tho river issues. From Capo Martin, the south-east
ptjint of the delta, to the spot w^here the hills on each side first com-
mence to close togetlier — a distance of 20 or 25 miles — tliere stretches a
THE ALPINE REGIONS OF ALASKA. 277
low dark range, from 3000 to 4000 feet in height, on which I counted
eighteen small glaciers on the summits and four large ones in the
valleys below. This line of mountains is broken midway by a gap
eight miles wide, which allows a glimpse of an extensive snowy range
lying behind it. The highest peak seems at least 13,000 or 14,000 feet
high, with six others not quite so lofty.
The opposite or west shore of the delta of the Copper river is of
much more remarkable formation. From the spot where the valley
opens out, as far as the middle point of this west side, the mountains
project out into the tidal alluvial plain. On this part I counted fifteen
small summit glaciers and two large glaciers in the valleys, spreading
out after the manner of Alaskan glaciers in the shape of an extended fan
to the level of the river. But from this point westward to Cape Whitshed
(25 miles) the shores form a deep wide bay, with hills thickly timbered
below and devoid of glaciers above. Here are placed the two small
Indian villages of Oodiak and Alanuk. But though, just here, there is
no ice on the summits, there are three large valley glaciers descending
from a group of snow-mountains lying behind ; one of these is a double
glacier. From this point westward the mountains are not so high,
until Cook's Inlet ia reached.
Nuchuk is an Indian village on a large island at the entrance to that
wonderful inlet. Prince William Sound.
We reached Nuchuk on the 26th of August. A white trader lives
here. It was one of the old Bussian fur-trading posts. The schooner
was expected daily, but it was not until the end of October that she
arrived. I had long given up all expectation of seeing any vessel until
the spring, and was preparing for a winter's journey round Prince
William Sound. The Sound is surrounded by moderately high moun-
tains on the east side; few reach to 10,000 feet. Those of the Eenai
Peninsula are lower and less bold in shape. Everywhere the north sides
are bare. The south sides are thickly wooded to 1000 feet with spruce
and alder.
After crossing the Sound on the 25th October to the Indian village
of Chenega, we left it through one of several channels which exist
between Montague Island and the Kenai Peninsula. As we skirted the
Eenai Peninsula I could see many glaciers reaching the sea. The
mountains from which they descend seem to protect Cook's Inlet from
the rain which is so prevalent in Prince William Sound.
The summer in Cook's Inlet is one long spell of clear warm weather,
and it has earned the name from the miners who have visited it of
*^ Summerland." The west shore of Cook's Inlet is mountainous and
wooded up to a height of 1000 feet. The eastern shore is flat. Canoe
travel is very rapid in Cook's Inlet at the commencement of the flood
tide, when the incoming water covers the sand, which apx)ears to vanish
beneath it like a sinking stone.
278
THE ALPINE REGIONS OF ALASKA.
Mount llyamna (12,000 feet) and Burnt Mountain (11,200 feet) are
both on the western side of Guok 8 Inlet, and both actLVG volcanoefi.
AugUBtin Isiand* close by, lb ako active, and broke out a short time ago
with great violence, covering the aea with dust,
Ivan Petroff who made a census of most of the Indian tribes in 1879,
and who waa sitting by my side during the fearful mnrder, at our supper
table, by a Kussian madman, of the general agent of tho Alaska Com*
mercial Company, is the only person who has set foot upon the aides of
Mount Ilyamna, The fierce brown bears of Alaska are very nn merons in
these volcanic regions : the explanation of this is to be found in the
fact that the natives w^ill not approach any of the volcanoes. The deer
and boar — the latter more particularly — seek these "regions instinc-
tively, untrodden by man's foot as they are, and nntrodden as they will
ever be by the foot of any Indian,
John Bremner, a miner (whose simple diary I found at Nnchuk,
recording the extraordinary events he witnessed among the Copper
River Indians, and his life for seven months with this depraved and
dissolute clan), found that it was impossible to persuade any one of the
tribe to approach within several miles of Mount Wrangel, a volcano
which rivals St. Elias in height- He however, alone, and in the dead
of winter, made an attempt to reach its orator, when one of his snow-
shoes breaking, he was compelled to return. The part of his diary
referring to this daring adventure is as follows (the spelling being
corrected) : — ** Nov. IGth, 1884. I made the attempt to get to the volcano
(Mt. Wrangel) and failed. I got within about one mile of tho crater
when one of my 8now*8hocs broke, and I came very near passing in my
checks. Before I could get back to tho timber several of my toes froze,
and my ears jou ought to see them ; they would match a government
mulcts. 1 do not think it is possible to make the ascent in the winter, but
1 think it w^ould be easy in the summer. I could not get any of the
natives to go with me. They are afraid to go anywhere near it***
Still more is this the case on Unimak Island, where in addition to the
feeling of reverence and horror with which Mount Shisaldin inspires
them, the superstitious thoughts which the story of the Bussian
massacre has left in their minds, is an additional cause of fear, and
this large island is totally uninhabited*
I add another extract from Lis diary i —
" Feb. 3rd, a beautiful day, not a cloud in the sk}', I was treated to
a sight to-day that 1 wish you could have seen ; the Volcano has been
very quiet a good while, but to-day it i^ sending out a vast column of
smoke and hurling immeojse stones hundreds of feet high in the air;
the masses it is throwing up must be very large to be seen here, at least
thirty miles in an air-line distant from the mouth of tho crater; it has
made no loud reports, only a sort of rumbling noise. — Feb. 4lh, a little
colder, but pleasant. Tho Yolcano has stopped throwing stones or
THE ALPINE REGIONS OF ALABKA. 279
making a noise but is still sending out an immense clond of smoke.
It is Teiy beantifulf not a breath of wind, and the smoke ascends to a
great height in an immense column before spreading out.**
Mount PaTlov is another Tolcano near the ^end of the Alaska
Peninsula, which broke out into eruption last August with great
Tiolenoe, and destroyed a portion of itselfl None of these Tolcanoes
have been examined or explored.
The admixture of Bussian blood seems to hare prolonged the life
of the Indian races in Prince William Sound and Cook's Inlet. Tbejr
seemed a far finer set mentally and physically than the Takatats, who
are pure Indians. The character of the Yakatat Indians has not
Taried much since Ismaelof and Belcharof (1780) gave the following
description of them: — ''They cut their beards and paint their faces
with stripes of Tarious colours. These people hare neither laws nor
religion. They worship, howerer, crows, from which they aflect to be
descended. Among other objects of barter, the natires offered two boys
about twelve years old." When we arrived, the Takatat Tni^M^nd had
lately been tearing up their blankets, as they do each spring after a
period of debauch.
There remains in the alpine regions of the Xorth Pacific a wide
field for ezpUners. Mounts Crillon, Fairweather, and La Pfonise,
reqwctively 15,900, 15,500, and 11,300 feet high, are not quite so
striking as St. Elias, but much nearer to civilised settlements. Probably,
it would be easier to land at the wonderful inlet of Lituya Bay, than
at Icy Bay, and it would certainly be easier to leave. There is no per*
manent Inidian village here, but the natives put in to camp sometimes.
Lituya Bay is d' ae to Mount Fairweather. The vessel of the UJS.
Coast Surrey entered it and compared it to the Toaemite Tali^ in
Galifioniia with the addition of ^adeiiL La Perouae entered it and
kat a boat and its crew, throngh misfortune and ignorance, on the tnr
at the cntnnee. Indians can land at Dry Bay, or at the month of n
nsHMleas ixver near at hand. At this point exists the only paas kaciwn
orer the SC Biaa Alpa— known to the Indiana, and known to tbeai
akme. and tmv^enahle only in winter.
Dry Bay, froaa Indian report, arast be nearly as intercnting sa
liaya Bay. It ia neady certain that a large Ix«iian vxlla^ exMte
wi ■liiiir in tke neighbonrhood ; and by taking a snull light csMis
ha%«efxialdRnc&TakBtatbyBcnns of tke ames of kgmw behind
thebene^
There is a large Uask apaee upon tke saap of AJadca, lyia^ between
Cck1:*s Iiilit aoid tke great Yukon rfver. It is aa nnknown m any ^
t^ nnexpasand reg>:mf «n tfte ^-^^ Indian report aroa iLat lim
\ of vvy lofiy si^nxiaiasL and &at rrreia lead io limsm ^
SL mm Hmm
THE ALPINE REGIONS OF ALASKA,^DISCUSSION.
ebould l>e in tlio party experieneeJ mountaineers, and it should land
either on tho west Hitle of Yakatat Bay, or at Cape Yagtag, near Icy
Cape, where there is said to be a reef which affords protection against
the Burf. It Bhonld .unraber at least six persons^ bo as to l>e iiidependent
of the Indians^ or at least not wholly dependent on them. If Yakatat ,
Indians are hired, as many of them as poBsihle should bo engaged up to
ten ; hut if Indians are brought from Chilcat not so many will be
required.
The main object should be to he able to camp long enough on the |
spot to ascertain the easiest way of ascending Mount St. Elias, by i|
"packing" with this object enough provisions to the base (three days'
travel) to last fur a fortnight. If the monotain is to be ascended at all,
it will only be accomplished by experienced alpinists.
We next touched at Kodiak, where occurred the murder, to which I
have alluded, of the general agent of the Alaska Commercial Company.
Wo were seated in a small room after dark at supper. As the meal was
nearly finished a shot was fired at us from the outside through a double
glaea window, which was smashed to atoms, filling the room with
smoke, covering the table with fragments of broken glass, and killing
the general agent, who was fitting by my side, besides severely
wounding another occupant of tbo room. An insano Russian had fired
into a crowd of unsuspecting men with a charge of buckshot I He had
evidently aimed at the agent.
The schooner remained some days at Kodiak, and then sailed for
San Francisco, where 1 arrived on the 15th of November,
The following diacusaioD ensued : —
Mr. B, PacsHFiELD regretted that he could not add anytliiog to Lieut. Seton-
Karr's narrative from peraoiml kDo\vletlge of the mountains of Alaska. But as
tlio paper read had been somewhat hrief, the meetinj: would perhaps alluw him to
oflfer some genend remarks on the present position of mountaineering as a hranch
of geo;^phlcal research. He would then take in detail certain points raised by
Mr. !ieton-Karr, and he wouW conclude hy quoting soma valuable notices of the
REime region, recently published in America. He had sometimes been tempted, while
listening to the papers read at the Society's meetings, to amnae himself by inventing
fancy claaaifications of the travellers who appeared before them. A learned German
supplieil bim with the first classification. Ilerr Schwarz* said that there were
two great classes of travellers, those w^bo sought for lateral progress and those who
strove for vertical advance— the ordinary traveller who tried to get m far ns possible
from his fellows, and was, therefore, something of a misanthrope, and the moun-
tameer whose endeavour was to get a little nearer to the angels, anil who miirht l>e
called a philangehst Another authority divided travellers into seafarers, landfarcrs,
and gnowfarers, Such a division might serve to enforce at least one useful lesson,
that the craft of goin^ above the ffnow*level was as distinct a craft as tliat of navi-
gation, and that it k as impossible to explore efficiently snow-mountains without it.
* * ITeher Fels und Firn ; die Bezwingung der miichtigsten Hochgipfel der Enle duich
den Menschen,* &e.^ Leipzigt 1884.
THE ALPINE REGIONS OF ALASKA.— DISCUSSION.
281
as it is for a laodsman to explore beyond low-water mark. Some people found it
hard to uaderstjind thi;! ; and great nonsftase was frequently talked by those who
librgat Ihat mountain people were not necessarily mountaineers, that they were
[often incapable of giving tlie gmallest assistance to mountaineers, and that their
[testimony as to the practicability of ascents was worthless. Before the days of
[DeSaussor© no Alpine peasant had ascended any Alpine a now-mountain. At the
^'preaent time it waa proper to call attention to De Saussure, because thifl year was
something more than a jubilee, it was the centenary of the ascent of Mont Blanc
by the illustrious Genevese. His was not the first ascent of Mont Blanc, for that
mountain had been climbed the year before by Balmat and Dr. Paccard, but it
was the first properly recorded ascent, and^ therefore^ the ascent that had been most
Talnable to, and was best remembered by, the world. Its value was not, however,
immediately manifesL Two fellow-citizens of De Saussure — Rousscnu and Voltaire —
«et men's brains spinning in a different direction. It was not till within the last
thirty years that De Saussnre'a travels had borne full fruit in the thorough
^ Bubjugation of the Alps, By the present generation the exploration of the Alps
had been taken in hand and finiahed, the secrets of the snow had been explored,
and the icy wastes had been turned into the health-^ving playground of Enrope.
The word 'MEaccensible'^ had been banished. From the Maritime Alps to the
Gross Glockner not a single pinnacle rmised its head unconquered. Anjs^ustus
raised a trophy on the Maritime Alps above Monaco and in&cribed it — " Dcvictis
Alpinis gentibus a mare supero ad inferum *' ; now a monument could bo
raised to De Saussure, ** Devictis Al|jibii8." He did not desire to exa;];gerate
the part of mriuntaineenng in the exploration of the earth, the portion of
which uniler snow was comiiaratively Kmall. But he wished to show that moun-
taineers had been well empJoyed, although their laboura had occupied but a
small space in the 'Proceedings' of the Geographical Society. A double reason
might be given for that. First, they had been chiefly engaged in completing the
task before them — exploring the Alps. The ice-craft learnt in Europe had as
yet only been brought to bear in a few isolated insUncea on more distant
ranges. Secondly, the Geographical Society had kept its eyes fixed beyond
Europe, and had excluded from its sphere EurO|x>an travel and research. In
Germany it would be found that Payer's Alpine and Arctic papers equally found a
place in the leading geographical magazine.* When he first frequented the Royal
Geograplilail Society ho was astonished to find that they had not the maps made by
his friend the late Mr. Adams Reilly of the chain of Mont Blanc and the southern
slopes of the Pennine Alps in their Map-room I He believed that the Society's pjold
medals had been given for much less hard labour and geographical research and
accurate and artistic map-making tlian were embodied in these sheets.! But now
the Royal Geogra]>liical Society and the Alpine Club were about to be forced into
connection, Tiie Club had done its work in Europe and would have to turn to other
plaoee. The maiden peaks of New Zealand, the Caucasus, the Himalaya, and the
Andes would no longer be the objects of the occasional pursuit of a few chart^Tcd
libertines; they would be constantly run after by a crowd of admirers. South
America had already found its De Sauesure in Mr. Whym|>cr, whose long-promised
work they must all look forward to with great interest. He was sorry that he could
not say that North America had yet found a De Sanssure. The journeys of Mr,
Solon-Karr and Lieutenant Schwatka must rather be compared to the travels of
• Petermann's * GeographiBche Mitteilungen/ Ergftnzungsheft No. 17, and passim,
t Mr, Adums Reilly's MS. maps are now, by the permif<8ion of the Alpine Club, on
view for a short timo in the Mup-ixKJiu,
283 THE ALPINE REGIONS OF ALASKA.^DISCUSSION.
Pococke and WindhftTn, the two adventarcms toiirista who went to Chamonix forty
years before De Sauaamne, and visited the Montenvers. The party whose adventures
httfl jimt been described were doomed to failure, for tlie expedition was not suffi-
ciently provided with moimtaineera* Lieut* Seton-Karr^s own Alpine experience
was limited^ and lie hud with him a companion of eighteen atone; and to attempt
to take such a compftoion up a mountain 19»000 feet hig^h was a Quixotic enter-
prise. He did not tbink that Lieut. Seton-Ktirr need have felt any anxiety aa to
the tronble he might have had in lifting Lieut, Schwatka out of a crevasae, Alpine
ropea had been thoroughly tested, aad none of the ropea in use would besr the
shock of an eighteen-stone tnan fallincr suddenly. To come now to some of the point*
m the paper, he would first refer to the name of the mountain — Mount St, EUaa,
It was curious to find in such a region the name of St, Elias, Why should the
prophet Elijah be connected with that great mountain? Wherever the Eastern
forms of Christianity prevailed, the prophet Elijah or Elias seemed to be the peculiar
patron of moan tain pcskE, If they looked at the map of Greece they would find
his name and chapel on the top of many mountains ; and on Olympus, instead of an
altar to Zeus, there were conventa dedicated to St, Elias. In the Caucaans the
primitive tribes who had been driven into the hill-fastnesses by the Circassians,
were said to believe that the prophet Elijah frequently appeared on the highest
mountains, and to appease him with milk, butter, and beer,* V^arious explanations
were given of this connection. Some people thought it was because the (rreek Church
attached so much importance to Elias's part in the Transfiguration ; others said that
Elias the pmphet had, through a similarity of name, succeeded to the altars of
Itelios, the sun.f Another possible explanation might be found in a survival of
the belief attributed (2 Kings ii. 16) to the sons of the prophets, who sent out a
searcb expedition of "fifty strong men'*' to look for Elijah, because they thought,
** Peradventure the Spirit of the I-*ord hath cast him upon some mountain," Of all
the mountains on whicli the prophet's name had since been cast Mount St. Elias
must be the farthest and the loftiest. With regard to the height of St. Elias,
19,500 feet might now be fairly taken as settled. Mr. Elliott, in his recently
published ' Arctic Province,* spoke of Mr. Baker, who made the trian^lation, as
**one of the most accomplished mathematicians in the United States Survey,"
Another accomplished surveyor, Lieut, Allen, had, he states!, ascertained that Mount
Wrangiel rose 18,4C0feet over the forks of the Copper river^ and that those forks were
over 2000 feet above the sea. That would make Mount Wrangel 1000 feet higher
than Mount St, Elias, so that after all the United States might be happy in possessing
the higheat peak of the North American continent. He need hardly say to any-
body in the room who had any cxperieoee in mountaineering that he utterly dis-
believed in the ascent of Mount Wrangel by the miner, quoted by Lieut. Seton-
Karr, He did not believe that he got anywhere near the top of the mountain, or
even much further than its base. That a solitary man should ascend nearly to the
summit of a peak of 20,000 feet, in that latitude, in winter, was absolutely incre-
dible. With regard to the statement in the paper that the snow-level on the seaward
slope of Mount St, Elias was only 40O ftet, Mr, Elliott described the forests of
Prince William Sound, a little farther west, as rising to lODO feet, and the snow*
level as between 3000 feet and 4000 feet ; and another explorer had collected
liotanical specimens at between 1000 and 3000 feet. 'IT^e atcent of Mount St.
KMas would probably prove the longest snow tramp in vertical height on the
earth's surfiice. But, whatever the snow-level might be> the lieight reached by
• Klaproth, * Voyage ftn Caucase/ vol. i. eh, 13.
t Bent's ' Cyclttdea.*
THE ALPLNE REGIONS OF ALASKA.—DISCUSSION. 283
Lieat SetoD-Karr above the sea-levd did not equal that of the sammits of Elbruz
above the Caucasian snow-level ; and the pretensions of the New York newspaper
with regard to this ascent mnst therefore be dismissed. He wished to ask Lieut.
SetoD-Earr if there was any chance of an explorer being able to cross the Indian pass
from Dry Bay and get round by the lakes north of Mount St Elias to the forks of
the Copper river near Mount Wningel ? Such a tour, combined with the ascents of
Mount St. Elias and Mount Wrangel, would probably be the most interesting
mountain excursion possible in North America. He regretted very much that,
owing to the non-anival of the photographs that Lieut Seton-Earr expected, he
had been unable to illustrate his paper with the lantern. He hoped that mountain
travellers in future would take photographic machines with them and make good use
of them. It was a very easy thing to do. He had himself carried Mr. Donkin's
camera nearly up Mont Blanc, and every one knew what superb plates Mr. Donkin
produced. With regard to the accessibility of the region described in the paper, he
had recently received an illustrated pamphlet, published by the Northern Pacific
Bailroad, and written by Lieut Schwatka.* It contained a promising account of
the facilities soon to be afforded to travellers. It was in contemplation to build an
hotel at Glacier Bay, close to Mounts Crillon and Fairweather, and to run excursion
steamers from Sitka to Icy Bay. When travellers frequented these coasts the
weather promised to be as great a topic of conversation on Alaskan steamers as it was
at Swiss Uble d*h6tes. The rainfall at Sitka was 85 inches, but there were said to be
100 fine days in the year. At Gbicier Bay, Mr. Wright, in August, out of 29 days,
had 14, or nearly half, ** beautiful beyond description." The witnesses were very
contradictory, for another officer described the weather ss " boisterous winds chronic,
and howling gales frequent." Mr. Seward, on the contrary, thought the climate was
infinitely superior to that of Northern Germany ; but he was a politician, and not a
disinterested one (for he had had a share in the purchase of Alaska), and therefore
was politically biassed, and could hardly be expected to tell the truth. In conclusion,
he woold give very briefly the main facts contained in an important note which had
been published in the 'American Journal of Science' (January 1887) by Mr.
Wright, who made some prolonged observations at the head of Glacier Bay, on a
Urge glacier called the Muir Glacier. It was found that that glacier occupied a vast
smphitheatre, with a diameter ranging from 30 to 40 miles, with nine main and
seventeen smaller branches. The main trunk was two miles wide. It entered the
uoean with a sea-front of a mile, rising in cliffs 300 feet in height Bergs containing
40,000,000 cubic feet broke off from it From measurements taken with care at
the eiid of summer, the period of greatest motion, the vdocity of the ice was
ascertained — and this was a fact well worthy of attention — as 70 feet a day in the
centre, and 10 feet in the margin of movement ! Now, 1} foot a day was aboat
the motion of the Mer-de-Glaoe, and 55 feet in the year that of the Aar Gladen.
The only observatioos at all comparable in their results with those of the Moir
Glacier were tbon of the Jakobshavn Glacier in Greenland, where the motion
was said to be 3f miles a year.f De^te this rapid motion, Mr. Wright stated that
a period of glacier decrease was going on in Alaska, corresponding to that in the Alps
and in the Caocasos, apparoitly just terminated. A still more remarkable (act was
ascertained in the discovery of a forest boried in sand, from which the ioe had recently
letieated. Mr. Wright showed that the sand had been deposited by streams dammed
by a side glacier during a long previous period of advance of the ice. The ioe had
* * Wooderland, or Alaska and the Inland PSsMge,' by Lieot Sehwaika.
t See ' Alpine JoumsL' voL xiL pp. 229-30, for a summary of the most reeent state-
ments and eoDdasioiis as to gkricr bmHioq.
No. v.— Hat 1887.] y
284
TOE ALPIXE REGIONS OF ALASKA.— DISCUSSION.
tlien passeJ over tbe saud without diBturbio^ it» In this instance the ice had heen
partiftlly supported by a spur of rock, and therefore its whole weight had not pressed
t>n the sand* But Mr. Wrii»ht went on to say tlmt ** the caimcity of the ice to move
without disturbing them over such gravel depoisits as cover the forests, is seen in the
present condition of the south-west corner of the glacier itself. As the ice-front
has retreated along that shore, large masses of ice are still to be seen Inpping
over upon the grave!. These are portions of the glacier still sustained in place by
the underlying grave!.*' This^ of course, was ira^xirtant evidence wnth regard to the
boring faculty of glaciers. It seemed aa if it would prove a confirmation of much
that was written m Mr. Whymper's Alpine volume. He (Mr Fresh field) had never
been disposed to believe in the enormous powers attributed to glaciers as bores. Tbey
scraped and polished to a great extent, but he did not think that they dug deeply.
They were not so much the sculptor's workman as the sculptor himself. Their share
in hill structure was to give it artistic merit; to round a corner and polish a boss.
Thoise who were interested in glaciers should not fail tt) study a very beautifully
llustrated official report, published at Washington,* on all tbe glaciers in the
United States, excluding those of Alaska* The conclusion that Englishmen would
arrive at would be that the glaciers of the rest of North-west America were a very
poor lot — -hardly worth looking at from the picturesque point of view, and scarcely
equal to those of the Pyrenees. Another result would be to make Englishmen envy
tbe Americana the amount of money which their government could afford to devote
to tbe illustration and publication of scientific reix>rts. lie congratulated Lieut.
Seton-Karr on the success that ho had obtained in approaching the mountain and
visitinjT the more remote parts of the Alaskan coast. Those who went first, and
opened the w^ay, were not less entitled to credit than those who came afterwards, and
reaped the fruit of their predecessors* labours.
Mr. Clikton DnxT (l^resident of the Alpine Club) said he had been very much
interested in the paper, for it dealt at once with mountain and geographical explora-
tion. He could fully endorse what Mr. Freshfield bad said, that, to attack a
mountain 19^500 feet high, with the very remotest pmsj^ect, not of success, but of
attaining any height whatever, the expedition must be specially equipped. There
must he no one in the party who was not a mountaineer. With regard to trusting
to the natives, experience in Alaska would prove to be the same as in the Andes, as
originally it was in the Aif«, and as he had the opportunity last summer of finding
it was in the Caucasus. Until the natives were educated to liecome mountaineers
they would never be of the least use. The Swiss peasants had, however, been
educated until tbey had become instructors of those who educated them. Among
the natives in mountainous countries there was always at first an amount of super*
Eitition, and which resulted in a dread and abhorrence of attacking the higher peaks.
It followed that to attain any success, even apart from reaching the aummit of
such a formidable mountain as Mount St. Elins, the explorer must be provided with
those who could act the part of porters, and who were thoroughly reliable. From
the description that had been triven of the mountain, he fancied that the ascent
must be one of a most forraidablo nature from its great length, and be considered
that the route which bad so far been followed was hardly likely to jirove the right one.
It appeared to him to be a very long way round, affording no opportunity for bivouack-
ing suPuciently high. From the last camp the party seemed to have started with an
idea that tbey could go up a height of something like 15,000 feet in a day, hut in
such cases 600O feet was an exceedingly sood day'« work. With Mr. Freshfield,
he congratulate<i Lieut. Seton-Karr on having broken new ground, and ^n Laviug
I
* Report of the GeoloijicftI Survey/ 1883-4.
BETWEEN THE NILE AND THE CONGO,
285
thown that in Alaska there were glaciers and moimtaiDS of the Iiigk^t ioterest to
every one coonected, not only with geography, but also with the sister science, wbick
be hoped geography would adopt » oro;:^raphy,
Lieut. Seton-Karr said the Indians had a pass from Cbilcat to the north of St.
Eh'as to ilocnt Wrangel down the Cluchitka river. The Copper river had been
ascended by Lieutenant Allen in 1884. Tbe Indians, however, only crossed the i>a3S
in winter when the streams were frozen, but it might perhaps be done in eummer.
The snow-level depended on the stiow-fall, and the conditions of St, Ellas were «nch
that the snow-fall was very heavy. Damp winds came up from the Pacific, and were
coriJensed on the snow mountains which were immediately at the ocean's brink ;
the result Tvas a very heavy snow-fall, greater tbau in any other pai t of Alaska.
There was^ therefore, more snow to melt, and consequently tbe snow-lioo descended
lower. Ho judged it to be 400 feet, hat other travellers might make it even lower.
ICo doubt some of the glaciers were decreaaing, but others at Mount 8t EUas were
vancing and getting larger. All the forest land which ho saw was being destroyed
their advance. With regard to the w^eather, as a rule, June and July were line.
There wag not a single drop of rain during the whole fortnight he remained on the
slopes of Mount St. Elias, although it was cloudy. After that bad weather set in,
and it rained the whole time he was in Alaska.
Tbe CiTAiEMA?i (Mr, Francis Galton) congratulated Lieut. Seton-Karr on the
opportunity ho had had of exploring: a country where the tbrc^s of nature wore to U?
seen acting on a very large scale. The journey had evidently been performed under
circumstances of great difficulty. We rni^ht expect a more detailed account in the
nsrmtive of his journey which he is about to publish. He experienced many
difficulties which he has not mentioned in his paper, and on more than one occasion
he was in ]>eril of his life. It was to be hoped that Alaska would be further
explored, and that fuller knowledge would be obtained of its moat interesting
charactedsticH.
Between the Nile and the Congo ; Dr, Junker and ihe ( Welle) Makua,
By J. T. Wills.
(Read at the Eveuiug Meeting, March 2Sth, 1887.)
Map, p. 330.
I NEED hardly remind you that in the fertilo part of Central Africa,
in the belt of tropical rains and rich vegetation which stretcheB from
the Zambesi to Senaar and Lake Tsad, river navigation is tho oiily
means of cheap transport : and hoats almost the only altenmtive to slave
porterage. Hi vers are here tho trade rontes and tho lines upon which
European inflnence must advance; and the big navigable rivers^
with tho exception of the Niger Benuo and Zambesi, al
cme of three points, Berlxsr, Lake Tsad, and Stanley Pc
last is alone at present accessible to us.
Let ns first look for a moment to the history of
round the region in qncstion. The first central A<
explored and need was the Nile. Eighteen ceutur
tbe Emperor Nero, two Koman centurions ej'
Kile 500 miles beyond Khartum as far as th
286 BETWEEN THE KILE AND THE CX)KGO: ^H
the river closed in bj reeds and morasses, full of tall graea into whidi
there was no mefins of penetrating either hy boat or on foot. This sudd
region in a swamp uf vast extent, where matted weeds and floating
grasses choked with fine mud, and knit together by the tangled roota of
aquatic plantB, form rafts or inlands of floating sod^ on which other tall
grasses grow, and which jamb and block the deep channels, like floating:
ice ill jtolar fieas» while all around |)apyma and other reeds grow thick on
the ehallo^v swamps and inundated flats. The block so formed is variable
and intermittent, and when exploring expeditions in 1831>, 1840 and 1841,
penetrated for the first time beyond the point reached b}' Nero's cen-
turions, little hindrance was expt rienced, then or for the next twenty-five
years; but in 1870 Baker's expedition had the greatest dilliculty to get
through, and the block of sudd that formed in 1878 continued on and off
for thieo years, and after nearly frustrating Gcssi'a campaign in th©
Bahr Gazal, eventually caused his death in 1881. Emin Bey very
postibly * owes his safety now to the re-formation of this siuld in 1884,
When European ivory traders in and after 1845 followed the tracks*
of the Egyptian expetiitionB beyond the sudd, two navigable branches*
of the Kile were found ; eno navigable at all seasons as far as Gondokoro
(Lado), and the other as far as Meshera el Eek, The custom was to sail
up from Khartum to cither of those points* in the dr}^ season or w^inter,
and to sail down again in Juno upon the flood. Tlie winds are strong
and steady from the north and K.N.E, for three or four months as far as
Meshera, and for one or two aa far as Lado ; and they arc nearly equally
strong and steady from tho south during an equal period, lesserdng in
strength and duration up north towards Berber, as the winter north
winds do towards Lado. Consequently the clumsy Khartum nuggers
of 40 or 50 tona, with a 20 fixit Learn, low maets, and rotten, spliced, and
cranky yards, often average up to the sudd some four or five miles an
hour against a stream that generally runs two miles an hour. They thus
do 48 to DO miles a day, and in nine or ten days get to the sudd.
Schweinfnrth describes Lis nugger often staggering under bare poles,
when the wiud was best, for fear of breaking the yard.f This is the
chesi pest river navigation in Africa^and according to Gesei, freights from
above Meshera to Khartum were only 27. a ton. It costa at present
between 30L and 401. a ton to get porters' loads carried up from the £ea
to Stanley Pool, and it need to cuat 10^. a ton by camel from Suakin to
Berlter.
We all know how these trade-winds soon became slave-trade winds;
how soon after the discovery of the great lakes and souicea of the Kilo
• 1 bc{^ kuv© to niter roy ophiioti. News from tlie Soudun allows that the Khnlif nt
Khiirtum hiia neilber k-isiire nor i«>wer lo attack him* Nor hau uny oud vUc. I do not
iKliLve there ortf any rebels or A labs now in i\w Bahr Gazal e:tcej.t a few ecore of petty
tela VI -bun tore, aufl those without jioliticBl support The rtopciiiug of trade with tho
Bcjudan, boweTcr, will (juk'kly iucriofie Ibeir numbers,— J. T. W.
t The yardH, if mude of fir, ha?e to be imported front Trieate,
4
I
DR. JUNKER AND THE (WELLE) MAKUA. 287
Sir S. Baker was sent up in 1870 to stop slaving on the Lado branch
where it was least vigorous, and how he was followed by Gordon in
1874-75-76, while Zebehr and many other smaller slave-hunters con-
tinued their devastations practically unmolested in the Bahr Oazal.
And we know how Nile explorations led to other explorations; how
Livingstone traced the Zambesi to its source, and Barth visited the
countries round Lake Tsad. In 1870 Schweinfurth went through
the Bahr Gazal with an ivory trader and reached the big Welle
Makua in Honbuttu, beyond the Nile watershed, just at the same
time that Livingstone explored Lake Bangweolo, Lake Moero, and
the Lnalaba down to Nyangwe. Schweinfurth reported that his
river was supposed to run to the Shari, Livingstone supposed his
to be the Nile. Three years later, Cameron disclosed by his overlund
march the south watershed of the Congo, and Nachtigal got important
but hearsay information of the south watershed of the Shari. The
mouth of the Congo was known, but no one had got past the rapids
between the sea and Stanley PooL In 1875 Gordon was on the Upper
Nile launching steamers * (which are still in working order) on the upper
Dufle and Lake Albert reach, which is separated from Lado by over
100 miles of land transit. He established the government which Emin
Bey now maintains, Long, his lieutenant, navigated a considerable
unknown reach on a still higher level in our enemy's country; and
Stanley sailed round Victoria Nyanza, which pours its waters in Long's
reach orer more cataracts. Stanley then went to the slave-hnnters at
Xyangwe, and prepared to embark on the unknown river there in
October 1876, just when Gordon went down to Egypt to say that be
would not go back to the Nile unless he had full powers over the
whole Sondan slave trade.
When Stanley emerged on the west coast and made known the
Congo, Gordon, as Governor-General, was preparing to pat dowrn at laat
the roaring slave trade of the Bahr Gazal ; and Zebehr was writing to
his son there to rebeL That TehtUi/m barred farther expUvatiMi of the
WeUe Makna. Bohndorf^ CAce Gordon's and afterwards Junker's
servant, went by himself io ex{4are in Zebehr's omDirj^ Uit was made
to swear on the Kcffan, and was finally robbed and left naked. I>r.
ianker, wIm was already in the Bahr Gazal in 1877, had Uj keep well
Io the east, wbeie great hardships broke his health, and frxobi him Uj
retire for a year to Khartom and Egypt.
Stanky. as we knvw, retnmed to the Ccngo, made ^rm his vaj, and
took np his ftteaaaer to Stanley Poci], and in Ibh^i nrmtitd for the fifvt
umt tLe great are of tLe Congo ^aU^e Kwa nnoiith «, which he bad
jaddWd own six yean before. He went akffkg the sonth bank ^A the
Ce^<&. wiJe^ is ijere ^ne^hr so wide <'and also fmll<4' is«anday thai the
uher bazJL 2» kc^ssL j b&k#w the horizon abi imt of sight ; when at
* OaeKMIcKilnS'
288
BETWEEN THE NILE AND THE CONGO;
length hd crofised over and reached the month of a big tribntarjr on the
north eide^ and fonnd from the friendly natives that they were in
possession of certain |>6culiar and numiBtakable Italian beads (which
had come down this river throngh the Watumba from traders who cam©
from the north), he was surprised more than interested, and passed on
to view with dismay the presence of Tippu Tib'8 Nyangwe slave-hunterft
at Stanley Falls, and at the month of the Aruwimi.
These beads were Rafai's beads : the big river which Stanley was
told came far from tiie north or north-east, and was so wido above that
one could not see the other shore, was the Loika (or Itimbiri ), and was
found last year to bo navigable for at least 100 miles at all seasons from
its month. It is identical with the big water or lake reBWjhed by Eafai,
six days' journey sonth from the Makna across the oountry of the
Ababua, where Eafai had a secnre trading post. Petermann*s Mitthcil-
tingen had published Rafai'a news (which Lupton had sent) a full
year before, and I am rather surprised to find that atich items of news
were not forwarded with the usual letters through Belgium to Stanley
on the Congo.
Hicks, VI itli hi8 army of 10,000 men, had been slain four or five days
before Stanley appeared on the Loika (on Xovcmber lOth, 1883), Lupton,
at Dem Suleiman was receiving, as a precious gift, 300 percussion caps
from Bohndorf, Dr. Junker's servant, who had hurried off with news of
his master to catch the expected steamer— the last Bteamer that ever
visited the Bahr GazaL Rafai, Lupton*6 best captaiai, had fallen fighting
bravely against the ^lave-hunters or Mahdiists. Rumbek was taken
by storm by t!ie rebels, and Emin's garrison there put to the sword the
same month, and the news of that disaster recalled Emin Bey horn
Tangasi in Monbuttu, on the Makiia, five days after his long and anxi-
ously expected arrival in that neglected district, and forced Dr. Junker
also to retire from his half-explored rivers to Lado. Thus connection
between the Soudan and the Congo was just not made in 1883, and no
further exploration of northern tributaries of the Congo took place till
fifteen months ago.
Let us now trace Br* Junker's explorations, all made before November
1883 and on foot. After having recruited his health in Egypt, ho arrived
in the spring of 1880 in the Bahr Gazal, where Gessi was celebrating the
Erst anniversary of his great victories over the slave- hunt ci-a. Gessi
had 40,000 liberated slaves on his hands, and was planting them in the
colonies, hoping they would settle down as cultivators. He was building
nuggers on the Wan, and was collecting a good quantity of ivory, and
50 tons of first rate indiambbcr. Ndoruma, a great Zandeh chief,
whose country lies on the watershed of the Nile basin, and %vho had for
years successfully repulsed the slave-hunters, and on one occasion liad
destroyed a force of 800 muskets, had recently " come in," first sending
envoys with a present of 100 tusks of ivory to ascertain if the good news
DR. JUNKER AND THE (WELLE) HAKUA. 289
about the new governor was true, and then coming hiiHself to do
homage or make sabmission. He gave Oessi all his ivory, 1000 loads, i.e.
150 tons, and also offered to give up the 800 captured muskets. To
Ndoruma's, therefore, Dr. Junker went, but as his armed escort of ten
negro riflemen or basingers caused great alarm, he sent them back at
once from the chiefs border, trusted then and thenceforward to the good-
will of Zandeh chieftains, and never had cause to regret this course.
From Ndoruma he went to the Makua, and acted in fact, though
not in name as a government ambassador. *' I am looked on," he writes,
*'as a mediator. Qessi is only too anxious to punish the deeds of
violence which the natives suffer at the hands of the Nubians whom he
sends out to collect ivory. As long as 1 remain here, robberies and
murders are not likely to be committed, for fear of my reporting them.
Ndoruma's belief in my protective power is shared by many other chiefs
near here, all of whom have either visited me or sent messengers : they
are afraid, not only of the Arabs (Nubians), but also of their own kith
and kin. Blood feuds are frequent, and each prince fears to go in peace
to his own cousins and brothers." Semio, for instance, to the west of
Ndoruma, who had felt the weight of Zebehr's and Suleiman's attacks
ever since the destruction of Mofio, his liege lord and northern neigh-
bour in 1874, had become a mere vassal of Suleiman, intrusted by him
with the use of besinger riflemen for the purpose and on condition of
getting slaves and ivory from his neighbours. Semio, now that times
had changed, dared not go outside his own marches, and sent many
urgent requests to Junker to come to him. Kifa also sent to ask him to
try his persuasion upon a rebellious relative.
Junker, however, sending Bohndorf to pay calls on these chiefis, went
south and struck the Makua, where there were alarms of war, which
made the natives (here Monbuttus) distrust him and show hostility.
He was very glad when Ndoruma, who had heard he was in diffi-
culties, arrived in hot haste with all his forces and set him free. Ho
then surveyed this country in the bend of the Makua, and reconciled two
brother-chieftains who had been egged on to fight each other by detach-
ment of so-called troops, who were hero doing pretty much as they
liked. He also effected a reconciliation in the family of Wando, another
Zandeh chief. Wando*s son, Hoqua alone of all the family, had sub-
mitted to the Egyptian Government, which means, I must explain, that
he had agreed to help Yussuf Bey, Mudir of the Eohl, to get slaves and
ivory from the territories of his brothers and father.
When Dr. Junker arrived on the Makua there was a body of his
troops, under a Colonel Hawash, fitly described by Casati as brigands,
here well out of Gessi's reach and control, who were bullying the
Monbuttus on the south of the Makua, to the great alarm of Kanna and
even of Bakangai, great Zandeh chieftains, lower down the Makua on its
south side.
380
BETWEEN THE NILE AND THE CONGO:
Dr. Junker probably knew that GeB«i had then qiiitted tbe Babr
Gazali finding bis position under the new Governor-Generial intolerable,
but be did not know tbat be %vaa then dead, baving been rescued too
Jate, and at the jioint of starvation, with fifty otber survivors only out
of 400, from the raiddle of the sudd in wbicb hi« worn-out etaamer bad
been belple^sly blocked for tbree montbs (September 1880 to Januarj^
1881). He tberefore avoided tbe Monbuttu region for a timet and
iiaving waited for ono of Gossips more respeotablo ivor}'- trailing agents,
Osman Badui, and for the escort of bia caravan, went to Bakangai's,
where (July 1881) be found much confidence reposed in him, and much
alaroi felt at tbe doings of Ha wash* He kept promising the people a
lietter future when Emin Bey should como to set thing« in order, and
** often," he says, *' did I hear them speak thus in reply : * TeU us again
such sweet tidings ; this year of your coming is a fortunate one for us.
Through your words we hope for a better future/ " He wrote to Emin
Bey of this, and to say that he had promised that he would presently
oome to set things right. There waa no governor in the Babr Gazal all
that year, Lupton arrived only in December 1881,
From Bakangai he went back through Kaivna*s country to where
Colonel Ha wash bad been fighting Manbanga, Munza's cousin, for over
a year, and was lying by till he could avenge tbe defeat of some
detacbments by annihilating the Monbuttu chief. He was well received
and listened to both by Hawaeli and Manbanga, and succeeded in
making a truce and in getting Hawash to observe it while be reported
his conduct to Emin by letter. Emin'a reply came back by letter over
a distance of 400 miles, and was (as I gather from Casati) obeyed by
Hawash,
Br. Jnnker*8 own account of his action in this matter is very modeat,
but Casati shows that it was miicb more considerable in weight and
effect. Casjiti met Junker here, and describes him as follows; — A man
of groat culture and intelligence, modest and unaffected, full of open-
hearted kiudnesa to mo, who won my highest esteem — a man of firm
character too, rpiiet and self-possessed, " I left him " he adds, " full of
content and happiness.** Dr. Junker has been dei^cribed very unfairly
and incorrectly by Mr. Stanley in the Time* as an honest little man,
altogether absorbed in recording geographicHl minutiaa on an elaborate
large-scale map, and as a Russian. Dr. Junker is a German, of Gorjuan
parents, born and bred in Germany, educated entirely at German schools
and colleges, and German to tbe backbone. In justice to him I must
ask your attention to tbe good political work which he did hero and
©laowhere.
Dr. Junker returned to Bakangai, explored the southern watershed
of tbe Makua, and waited for Emin's arrival and for the reply to his
report upon Hawashs in which, when it came, Emin made a promise to
follow soon, which pa'omise events did not allow hiai to fulfil. He then
DR. JUNKER AND TH£ (WELLE) MAEUA. 291
went sonth through Monbutta to the banks of a river Nepoko, 70 yards
wide, which almost certainly runs into the Biyerre,* and which he
struck in about 1^ 48' N. Here he was detained by Sanga, a Monbuttu
chief, who was trying to reorganise on the Nepoko part of the shattered
remains of Munza's people, who had been driven by the slavers from the
hanks of the Makua. The numbers of the nation have greatly de-
creased. Junker says, and in their present seats, whither they have thus
been driven, they form an aristocracy of a few thousands, ruling nume-
rous backward and comparatively uncivilised indigenous tribes. Sanga
detained him as he did not know whether he was friend or foe, and
Junker had to send secretly to Gambari, a Monbuttu whom he had
visited further east, to give him a good character. Gambari was a
slave, brought up in Yussufs household, who had been sent by Yussuf
to Monbuttu to rule it as a conquered country, but having failed t
and having been dismissed, he had been himself captured lately by the
miscreant Arabs on the Eohl, and was just saved by Emin's arrival from
being sent down to Khartum to be sold as a slave. Gambari's repre-
sentations set Junker free, and in September 1882 he rejoined his
servant Bohndorf at Semio's, after a year and a halfs absence, and
reposed awhile, being ill from bad food and want of necessaries, out at
elbows, out at heel, and consequently lame.
Dr. Junker found that between the south water-shed of the Makua
and the Nepoko, and rather to the west of his route to the Nepoko, lay
the headnsprings of the Nawa which flows west and becomes a big river ;
it runs five or six days south of Bakangai's and must, as he says, be
Bafai's big water, and Stanley's Itimbiri, which we ought to call Loika.
Dr. Junker left Bohndorf (whom he did not see again) at Semio's
in the end of 1882. He explored the Werre or Opi, which falls into the
Hakua about long. 24^°, and found rapids on the Makua, near the
junction ; these being the only Icnoum rapids on it below the Kibali
rapids in long. 28^. Travelling as usual overland, from one Zandeh chief
to another, he struck the Makua at several other points of which Ali Kobe's
seriba in about 22^ E. 3| N. was the furthest. The Makua was here
colossal, and full of islands (as it is elsewhere above) some of which are
thickly populated while others are full of elephants. Fi-om bank to
bank the river was perhaps six miles across. It ran north-west, and
six days beyond was joined by the Kuta ; of this junction he is quite
positive, the point being well known to the Zandehs ; in fact all the
Zandeh chiefs seem to know it, for Casati up at Kanna's was told how
these rivers joined in the land of Ambanenghe, and Fotagos learnt the
same at Ingimma's years before, with this addition, that canoes there
had sails.
• Miscalled the Aruwimi.
t In loppljing eunuchs ; but not for want of trying. He was one himself. The
matter is fully dealt with by Gessi in an unpablished letter to General Gordon.
203
BETWKEN THE NILE AND THE CONGO:
Dr. Junker had no means of navigating the river, Tiie Zandehs,
"wLose chiefs were everywhere friendly to Mm and glad to see Mm, do
not own boats. The tribes inhabiting the banka and i&lands are quite
distinct in raco and language, and knew nothing of Geesi or Ltipton, or
of their anti-slavery policy. Ali Kobo and other government ivory
traders were now comers and were only just beginning to get acquainted
with tbem ;, a voyage would have meant fighting, Dr, Junker therefore
went back to the north-west to connect his surveys with Luptcn'a.
Between Ali Kobo and Singio's he passed no rivor of any mzo running to
the Kuta, Singio'a is a little abovo the junction of the Shinko and
Mbomo and just below the junction of the Warre (of which one fork is
called Uallej and the Mbomo. He then went to S©mio*s and sent news of
his return (and of the Makwa having been last seen to the south-west)
to Lupton and Bohndorf. Lupton replied that he had explored as far
west as Foro, along lat. 7° N., and had taken latitudes. Junker con-
nected his survey at Mbanga, where Lupton had taken sixteen stellar
observations for latitude, and at Bern Bekir closed his own circuit.
Junker only surveyed with compass, and by reckoning distances
travelled, yet he took such car© and had made bo many cross routes and
subsidiary triangles^ that at Mbanga he was not much out in his reckon-
ing (according to Lupton 's latitude). Still he was out of course. Cor-
recting the map so as to fit Lupton*s latitude we get the Makua into
the position shown on my sketch map. Dr. Junker's uncorrected
mapping makes it cross Grenfell*s Loika.
Lupton's letter reporter! that all tho streams he had crossed going
to Foro ran fiouth or south- west to the Mbomo, and two of them the
8hinko and Enji were as big as the Mbomo itself. The Bhinko or
l^iperwer {Bohndorfs Ghenko) is formed by the junction at MaiTa of
several streams, some of which rise three or four days S.S.W, of Hofrat
el Nahas. Marra is 1D80 feet above the sea, or 1000 feet above Stanley
Pool, and tlie iShinko there M^as 20 to 25 feet deep and 90 yards wide
with steep banks. It is not fordable in the diy season anywhere lower
down. From Furo, which is beyond the Enji but in its basin^ Lupton
had sent a man south or S.8.W. rather to the Kuta (as the joint Ml>omo
Sliinko is called there) to report upon it. The man took 44 hours and
odd minutes on the way, halts excluded, to Barusso on the Kuta, which
jilaces it about 6° 20' X., and found the river two or three miles wide,
running west. A river which Lupton calls the Welle joined it 13 hours
above, and a big river joined it also from the south four days l>eIow
EaruBSO* This last must bo the Makua, for Junker found no other inter-
mediate river of any size, except one that ran west to the Makua.
It will be well for the future, to avoid confusion, to call the Welle
Makua, ** Makua/* and the Werro or Opi, " Opi." Makua is the Monbuttu
name ; tho Zandehs call it ^Varshah Welle, I believe, only means river.
Lupton's letter is dated October. Hicks and hiB army perished,
ML JOXKKR AND THE (WKLLC) HAKCiL 293
and Stanley anived at the month of the Loika in November ; the last
rteamer came np and took down Bohndorf with Lapton's news in
December; Goidon met Bohndorf in the Eorosko desert in January,
leaznt his news in fiiU at Khartum, and must have been encouraged by
it in his long consLd^ed plan* for going south to Lupton with all
steamers and stores, and holding the Bahr Gazal till he could open up a
route to the Congo, and find a water-way up the Makua or to the Makua
by which the n^ro Soudan could be permanently held against the
Mahdi, and against all slave traders. I call attention to this plan of
<jordon's because we are now perhaps able to carry it out.
I must leave Dr. Junker himself to describe these countries and
their people in fnlL As you see from the map a great quadrangle of
country between the Bahr-el-Arab on the north, the Lado-Nile or White
Nile on the east, the Makua on the south, and Foro, the Enji, and
Ali Kobo on the west, has been explored £nom the side of the Soudan.
The water-shed runs from comer to comer diagonally from Wadelai to
60 or 70 miles south-weet or W.S.W. of Hofrat el Nahas (the copper
mines), the extreme known point here being a mountain with a wide
view, ascended by Potagos in 1877, in company with Arabs who told him
what he was looking at. The watershed is highest in the south-east,
and beyond Wadelai it flanks Albert Nyanza in mountains 7000 feet
high. There are passes of 4000 to 5000 feet leading to the sources of
the Makua from Wadelai. Mount Baginze, due south of Meshera, is
4000 feet; there are several mountains probably higher than this in
Makaraka about the sources of the Bodi, and a large tract of country
ahove 3000 feet high. To the north-west the watershed seems to be
pretty flat in many places.
Hie rivers on the Nile slope run north in long parallel courses.
The eastern or longer rivers, Bodi, Bohl, Boah, and Tonj, in and after
the rainy seascm inundate large parts of the great triangle of low flat
plain that fills the whole space between the Bahr-el-Gazal and Nile as &r
as Bumbek, and nearly as far as a north-west and south-east line drawn
through Lado and Djur Ghattas. Their lower courses are therefore lost
in swamps and reeds, and are not navigable. The five shorter rivers on
the west are all navigable from Meshera for at least five months in the
year to boats drawing five feet of water, up to points ascertained by
Lupton. Dem Suleiman is close to one of these points. There is
at least 10 feet of water up to Wau and Kurshukali for seven or ei^t
months.t
The low flats sweep round up the Bahr Arab, and Hofrat is on a
great open whidi is lower (at 40 miles east of Hofrat) than the NOe at
* See Lieut-Gen. 8ir G. Graham'a mrtiele in the « FottnigfaUj Beriew/ Jan. 1887,
and Goidoii*s «La£t JoonttlA,' pp. 47, 48, 49, 87, 112, 145, 200, 225.
t Gesi (nnpablisbed letter>
2a4
BETWEEN THE NILE AND THE CONGO:
Wado, Hofrat la tlie copper mine, for the sake of which Zelsehr made
war on Darfur* The ore standi up in a long wide reef, protruding two
or three feet above the ground. It is very pure. Zebehr and Geeai
worked it and bartered! copper for ivory. Copper is tho ouly precious
metal known to the ]\Ionbuttu9 and other Congo negroes, and was much
valued. The Babr-cl-Arab is fordable in tho dry season at 25J;° eastt
but not, it is said,* lower down, Por five months or more it floods the
swamps on its banks so as to form an almost impasBable hai*rier between the
negro and Arab, the fertile and tho desert regions of tho Soudan, every-
where east of Ilofrat, or of long, 25"^, It is no doubt obstructed by
sudd and reeds below, but except lor this ought to be navigable for
eight months; its course is only too flat. This triangular flat would be
suitable for growing ricct but at present is worthless, and is thinly
inhabited by Dinka negroes with their thin^ but highly venerated cows.
It must always be verj^ unhealthy*. The valuable and healthy part of
the Nile elope is the upland plateau 2000 to 3000 feet high, which begins
just north of the lino Djur Ghattas-Lado and continues beyond the
watershed. Schweinfnrth fully describes its characteristics— the rich red
ferrugineouB and rather spongy soil, tho park-like and moderately
timbered uplands (wliere tho tall grass is fired every year, as it is on
the low triangular flat and throughout Senaar), the real tropical forests
which clothe tho banks of the nairow river cuttings f which are
generally 200 or 300 feet deep, in which the air is close and heavy in
contrast to tho fresh and open air above.
In the Makua basin, tho vegetation is more luxuriant, and the trees
bigger, Indiarubber (for instance) which Gessi and Lupton exported in
quantity, and of first rate quality (much better than the Brazilian) is
more abundant. The banana grows in Monbuttu, but in the Nile basin
not north of Wadelai, There is more for eat, though the Zandehs
regularly burn the tail grass annually- I do not know if this firing of
the prairies is a long-establiBhed practice or not ; its effect in creating
prairies is of course great. Going from Kurabek to Tangaai in the
hottest six months of tho year, Casati found 6G^ and 97^ were the ex-
tremes of temperature (l9"-36'' C) which is very moderate. Monbuttu
country proper is distinctly healthy, very fottile and well watered,
but rolling, well drained, and 2500 to 2800 feet high. The Nubians
were bringing their wives and children to settle there in 1871, and, aa we
know, they are not so tolerant of moist heat as Engliehmon. Ten or
twenty thousand of them, must have emigrated for good, or rather for
evil, to the Bahr Gazal, before Gessi turned them out. By all accounts
the Makua slope is healthier than the Nile slope. Bohndorf notices
the difference at Mbanga, which is at nearly tho same altitude as Dem
Suleiman, Lupton, in the Bahr Gazal, thanks to constant activity, had
not a day's sickness.
• Schweinfuiitj. f Schwemfujrlli'fl ija/en^ foreata.
DR. JUNKER AND THE (WELLE) MAKUA. 295
The two chief races in the Makua basin are the Zandehs and the
Monbnttas (the latter is a name given by the Arabs). The sonth bank
of the Makua generally is Monbuttu, and the north Zandeh as far east as
long. 28^ The Zandehs stretch along the watershed to near Lado ; the
Makarakas who supply Emin with his best, and >vith most, of his
soldiers, being Zandehs. To the north-west they reach the Shinko, and
the sonth bank of the Euta, The Bandas,* who occupy all the country west
of the Shinko and north of the Kuta, as far (according to Nachtigal) as
latitude 9^ north, are the same as the Zandehs in language and customs^but
there are political differences, and they refuse to be called Zandehs. The
Zandehs also have conquered and occupied, not long ago, the Bomokandi
basin, thus cutting off the Monbuttus proper of Schweinfurth (in Munza's
and Degberra*s kingdoms) and from the A-Babua, who are of the same
race and language, and who extend from about the Mbelima as far as Ali
Eobo, and apparently south to the Nawa-Loika. The original inhabitants
of the Zandeh countries in the Bomokandi basin, are called Mege and
A-Barambo. The tribes east and south of the Monbuttu, are by them
called Momyu,f and those south of Nepoko, Mabode. The Mege are
Monbuttu in language if not in race. The tribes south and east of the
Monbuttu's proper, as far as the Albert Nyanza watershed, are looked down
on by them as poor ravages, and as above stated, the Monbuttus, though
much broken up by slave-hunters, exist now chiefly as an aristocracy
ruling inferior subject races.
Of the tribes through which Stanley means to go east and north-east
from Stanley Falls, little is known. According to Dr. Junker they are
disorganised and disunited, and probably sparsely scattered in a rough,
hilly, forest country : they have goats, and those nearest Lake Albert have
catUe. The rivers there beyond the Nepoko have probably a rapid fall.
The liver that joins the Congo just below the Falls is twice broken by
rapids a short way up.
The Akkas or dwarfs, exist only in scattered colonies. In the coun-
try west of the Shinko, and north of the Kuta, which the Nubians call
Dar Abu Dinga, are a peculiar people, the Nsakkara. The A-Bassango,
who inhabit the banks and islands of the Makua, and who practically
monopolise its navigation throughout, are distinct from the Monbuttus,
Zandehs and others. They have canoes sixty-feet long.
The attention of travellers and linguists will be directed mainly to
the Zandehs, Monbuttus (i. e. A-Babua, <fec.) and A-Bassango.
The Monbuttus are a superior and intelligent people, superior to any
of the Bahr Gazal tribes, from whom, as Schweinfurth says, you may
expect an intelligent answer and a sound judgment, and whose word you
can rely on in matters of business. In Mnnza's time they emphatically
formed a nation, and knew it. They stood by each other faithfully as
fellow-countrymen, and they are faithful to friends. Many of them
* Or Bandja. f A tcim of contempt
296
BETWEEN THE NILE AND THE CONGO ;
foTiglit imder Gesai. He eaved them for a time, and deposed Gambari,
Emin came to Tangasi in 1 B83» and administered tlie country, which is
part of his province ; the nation was then much broken and decayed, and
looked to him for protection.
The Monbnttns are agriculturiits and smiths. Their population
in 1870 was very dense; according to Schweinfjirth, about a million in
a space of a square degree, or 250 to the mile. Though they have
neither pincers or iile, or tho art of tempering by immersion, they
supplied the Zand eh 8 with many of their weapons. They felled trees,
and made canoes 40 feet long and 5 wide, with a tedious little iron
hatchet. Miinza's great hall, 100 feet long, 50 wide» and 40 high, was
the architectural triumph of Central Africa, They did not know how
to weave cloth in 1B70, though tho A-Babria did. The men dressed in
fig-bark, while the women went naked. They are light-coloured, have
rather long curved noses (for negroes), and are all oircumcised. They
are great cannibals, and naturally so, as they have no domestic animals
to eat, and are not great hunters. Bananas, cassava, yams, sweet
potatoes, and sesame, are their chief food.
The Monbuttti women are, according to Schweinfurth, a striking
and most un pleasing contrast to the Zandeh women, who are modest
and retiring, faithful as wives, and devotedly attached to their
husbands.
King Munza was a powerful monarch who levied taxes, and kept
good order. He had a great retinue of couiliera and officials, and
affected mnch state and pomp whenever he emerged from his usual
privacy • AH that he touched was sacred. He protected his people
from the abominable malpractices of the slave-dealers, and steadily
refused to let any of his numerous daugbters marry an Arab or Nubian.
For these reasons they murdered him iu 187i>.
The Zandehs are a less civilised but more promising race. Their
domestic virtues seora to be considerable, and their fighting qnalkiea
are superior to those of any other negroes in the Soudan. The testimony
as to this last is clear and unanimous. Emin has written most em-
phatically of the gallant defence of Amadi by his Makarakas, who ate
their boots and then at last cot their way out. The negro battalions
in Hicks's army stood out a whole day without water after he and his
Egyptians perished, refusing to capitulate, and saying they had eaten
tho Effendina's * bread, and therefore meant to do their duty. Con-
tinually during the rebeUion the basingers died like the Old Guard,
selling their lives very dearly. The best of them, without any doubt,
were Zandehs. Lupton*8 intention to take to the jungle with a spear,
along with his trusty Zandehs, when his ammimition should be spent,
and to so continue resistance, argues in favour of the troopa as well
as of the leader. Sudden betrayal only prevented him doing so.
• K-e. tho GoreninieTit'& .
DR, JUNKER AND THE (WELLE) MAKUA. 297
The Zandebs are a nation of hunters. Hunting is their chief occupa-
tion. Meat is their word for food, and they hunt for meat. They have
no cattle, and a third of their grain (eleusine) goes in brewing a drink
that deserves the name of beer. They can carve well, and make pottery
and iron weapons. Their huts are tasteful, and they are very fond of
music, even of their own. They take auguries regularly before going
to war, and seem to have a faint sort of hero worship. Schweinfurth
thinks their religious ideas are poor, but the Banda tribes* have a
male and female deity, each of whom has a shrine in each homestead,
where they lay their offerings, take oaths, " baptise " their children, and
take auguries. In person, tbey are remarkable for their round broad
heads, short legs, and big full eyes set wide apart, and above all for
their graceful agility and ease of motion, high training, and evident
mastery over every accomplishment that befits a hunter.
Politically they are disunited, through the number and turbulence
of an aristocracy of petty chiefs, each of whom is implicitly obeyed by
his retainers. Succession goes by primogeniture, but the insubordination
of brothers greatly tempers the rule. It is the custom for a Zand eh to
ask his chief to find him a wife, or to intercede for him, ratlier, with the
father of the maid he has courted. In most savage countries a man
buys his wife direct from the father. The Zandeh custom suggests that
not long ago their nation was organised for war like the Zulus, who
being all soldiers, might only marry by permission of their leader.
Each chief or dan has round it a waste or forest mark, where it
hunts, and which separates it from the next. Sometimes independent
brothers are found living and ruling side by side within the same
belt of waste. The word clan is perhaps wrong ; for change of allegi-
ance, and taking service under another more popular chief seem to be
not uncommon.
The chiefs affect no state, but may be known by their pride of mien.
Schweinfurth says that they do not lead their retainers in battle ; but
they alone declare war and peace and direct the campaign. They have
power of life and death, and now and then " indulge in fits of Ciesarism,"
lest the fact that they can kill without giving a reason should be for-
gotten. All the ivory belongs to them, and half the carcass of elephants.
They recognised Gessi's and Lupton's authority over them, by asking
for protection, by making large gifts of ivory, by referring disputes to
Dr. Junker, whom they treated as a government commit'
agreeing to trade ivory only with government agents, aDi
other ways. In 1883 most of the country north of the Mak
Kobe and Barusso eastwards was in fact an Egyptian proteoi
I have mentioned examples of the intestine discords of tm
and of the struggles of brothers for independence, or leaden
were so cruelly fomented by the slave-hunters. Dr. Junker'i
* According to Nachtigal's Boron mnn, tee
298
BETWEEN THE NILE AND THE CX)KGO:
seems to stow tliat the}' hail had their Burfeit of civil wars, and wished
for internal peace and for protection under a strong leader, a wish which
wonid require another European arbitrator and protector like Gessi
or Lupton to carry out. Khartum traders will infallibly fament dis-
sensions in order to get ivory and slaves, for this is their invariable
policy. Whoever can prevent this and organise the nation ought to
l>e ablo to stop tho whole Bahr-^l-Gazal slave trade. At least that
was Gordon's plan in 1B84.
So much for the people : let us return to the rivers. Where does
the Makua flow to ? It must flow either to Lake Tsad or to the Congo ;
that ie quite clear, I dismiss as utterly absurd the idea maintained by
Stanley in his book on the Congo that it is the Biyerre ; and I cannot
understand how such an authority could have written in 1885 two
pages of argument to maintain that it does, for upon the face of the
facts which were know^n on Bolindorfs arrival in Europe, and which
were in print in the middle of 1884, the hypothesis is untenable.
Explorers look only to their ow^n discover}^
We now know, thanks to explorations made in December 1885
or February 1880 by tho missionary Mr. Grcnfell, that tho Loika is
navigable to about 23"* 25' E., 2"" 50' N., that the rapids he stopped at
are possibly passable at high water, and that the river about Christmas
has a volume of some 30,000 cubic feet a second. We also know of the
Mobangi, up which he went 100 miles before he found h© was not in
the nuiin Congo (such is its size and th© sharp angle at which the
two streams meet), and found it navigable to 4^ 27* N. at lowest water;
and we know also that tho only other northern tributary of the Congo
between the Mobangi and Aruwimi is the Ngala, near Ban gala, which
in December had a volume of about 25,000 cubic feet a second. The
Xgala has since been navigated in time of flood by a tiny steam-launch
to about Si^"^ N, and peihaps 21* E. It and its bmnches are there very
small streams, barred by rapids and waterfalls, in a hilly and rocky
country. Its sources in these hills defines the watershed of tho Makua*
Grenfell searched carefully for other northern tributaries and found none.
The French, in January 1886, navigated tho Sekoli-Bonga, another
largo Congo tributary, parallel to the Mobangi, and only 00 miles
further west, which in October had a volume of about 40,000 cubic feet
a second. All these estimates of volume are by Mr. Grenfell. Tho
Mobangi is by far the biggest of these northern tributaries, not excepting
the Biyerre ; * the Makua must be the Mobangi, or eke must go to Lake
Tsad : that is quite clear.
[Note.— 'The following argumentative paragraphs were not read at
tho meeting. They meet Mr, Kavenstein*8 arguments.]
Now the Lake Tsad streams wore explored by Barth and Xachtigal.
They are two, the Shari and the river of Logon. The latter ia
♦ St!ioley*8 '* Aruwtmi,"
■
DR. JUNKER AND THE (WELLE) MAKUA.
m
fordable in March (at Logon"), and is there about two- thirds the size of
the Sbari. The Shari in March has been described by Barth bm
G0€ yards wide, quite shallow for two-thirds that width, and 15 feet at
deepest* The cnrrent in the deep-water channel ran two to three miles
an hoer, and over the shallows of course much less. Say cnirent
2 J miles an honr throughout, and average depth for 200 yards 13 feet
and for the rest three feet (a veiy liberal interpretation), and yon have
42,000 cubic feet a second. Barth says the year was a very rainy one.
Kachtigal travelled along the Sliari for many days above Earth's point
in March, and says it is 330 to 450 yards wide, fordablo half-way
across, and for a third part beyond (i. e* for a third of its width), 10 to
15 feet deep; current two miles an hour. If the remaining sixth part
is the slope down from the edge to the 10 foot depth, and if the fordable
half averages three feet, this gives 20,000 to 28,000 cubic feet a second.
But then the Shari splits into four streams, which flow from east to
west Both in Bagirmi and Wadai, Kaclitigal found they were well
known and that there was no other. He took into his service an intel-
ligent and reliable man, who had crossed them all in the dry season,
though apparently not at the driest. The Aukadebbe, which joins in
lat. lU"" (Nachtigal went beyond its mouth to lat. 9}^^ on the west side of
the Shari), and the White and Blue rivers, which join below lat. 9^,
have together about as much water, or more, than the fourth or main
stream, the Ardhe. One was 80 yards by three feet, the second 200 or
300 yards by 4 feet, the third 100 or 150 yards, but not fordable, and
the currents of all three were nothing particular. The Ardhe was
300 * yards wide and fordable, but it had a current which made fording
rather diflScult, Kow a four mile an hour current three feet deep, or
a three mile an hour current four feet deep, is pretty bad to crosg, and
the former at four or the latter at five feet would lift one off one's
lega. These depths and ctirrents if maintained right across the river
give (which could hardly be) from 17,000 to 30,000 cubic feet a second.
This crossing was not said to be at the lowest season.
Evidently this fordable Ardhe is not the Makua. Roughly speaking,
it is about half tho Shari, which is perhaps at very most 40,000 (in a
wet year), but more likely some 25,000 cubic feet a second in a usual
dry season* The Makua in long. 28® near Munza^s has 10,000 cubic feet
of water a second, and at Ali Kobo is six miles wide iu the dry season.
But suppose the Ardhe was tho Euta-Makua. The Kuta-Makna
certainly at long. 22^ drains at least 120,000 square miles of country
for its watersheds are known. Where would the other half of the Sha:
* This Ib naiive informatioD* Tlie man did not miosiire widths^ btit compared it
& river bed before Ibeir eyea which Naclitifftil promptly raeuriiiied. Had ho been
LoDdoner his estimate would be nearly worthless, but a blave-lmtitor, who»o biisinc
ii to cross mtmy rivera, looks twice at tliem and wilh a pmctiscd eye. An «•
ki^owa a bowshot ; ft mountaineer the height of a snow-slope, and Urn tiuiF
a Chinese tailor will eye hia ctiatomer and then fit hiiu perfectly without
No, V,— Mat 1887.]
300
BETWEEN THE NILE AND THE CX)NGO:
(the three northern gtrcaius) find a proportiooate drainage area? Indeed
they wonld require a far bigger one, for they rnn in latitudes where the
dry seaBon is very dry indeed. Where woidJ the Logon find ita pro-
portionate area? And where wonld the Mohan gi find a basin three
or four times as big as that of the Kuta-I^Iakua-Ardhe ? Grenfoll
was at 4^ 27' N. on the Mohan gi in its very lowest season, at the end of
Febrnary : at the season when the Knta and Makua too are at their
loweet. The river was 640 yards across^ of 25 feet average depth, and
had a current of one to two miles an hour : say a current of 1^ miles an
hour, and its volume is 75,000 cubic feet a second, which is three-quarters
of what all the other northern tributaries of the Congo below the
Amwimi put together contribute in November and December, and two-
thirds of what the united Kasai-Sankuru gives (120,000 cubic feet a
second) * in June (a month perhaps from its lowest). An area of
180,000 square miles is drained by the Kasai-Sankuru. The Euta-
Makna drains two-thirds as much, and presumably has two-thinls of its
volume, which is just the volume apparently discharged by the Mobangi.
Again, Nachtigal had another informant, a trader from Bomn,
who had gone south across the Aukadebbe and White rivers, which rise,
he says, much further east (in the hilly Nile watershed tc^ward Hofrat
el Kahas), and no doubt are the streams which Potagoe had pointed out
to him from his mountain point of view near the junction of the Sbari,
Nile, and Kuta basins. Beyond these rivers, and fifty miles beyond the
springs of the Blue river (which lio in a hilly country), the Bomu man
passed through Foro (Lupton'a Foro), cIobq to w^hich also, in a hilly
country, were the springs of the Ardhej a river which he knew all about;
and 100 miles beyond Foro, he reached the Kuta, which be said was a
river bigger than the Shari itself, which certainly did not run into it,
flowing west, and full of inhabited islands, some of them rocky. He
gives other names besides Foro, which Lupton identifies. He spoke the
Banda language, and said it was spoken from lat. 9° N, to the Kuta, and he
gave examples to show Nachtigal that all its dialects are mere dialects
and nothing else* This uniformity of language of course facilitates the
spread of good information. His distances as mapped by Nachtigal
are bo correct that the Kuta so mapped (though Nachtigal hims-elf was
nearly 400 miles from it in Wadai) is only forty or fifty miles further
south than Lupton found it to be*
Nachtigal consequently did not pretend that thisKuti could flow into
the Ardhe, but threw out a suggestion that it may flow into the
Logon (the Congo then was unknown). But this cannot be, for the
Ardhe, according to the other informant's distances, lies only 120 mUes
from Grenfell's furthest on the Mobangi, The Kuta-Makua would
have to make a tremendous sweep to get round it to the Logon (which,
as stated, is a fordable stream two-thirds the ei^e of the Shari in the dry
* By an eitimtite moTQ core fill than anj of the othen gi?cLi above.
*
DR. JUNK£R AND TH£ (W£LL£) MAKUA. 301
seaflon, not capable of receiving a fifth part of their waters) and would
alzDDfit run into the Mobangi on the way.
The fact of the Logon swelling, so as to equal or even exceed the
Shari in the rains, is easily accounted for by its position : its basin lies
where the summer rainfall must be drawn from the Atlantic, and may
reach farther south than the Ardhe.
The reported connection between the Shari (Ardhe) and Logon,
which, if true, makes Bagirmi an island, is immaterial. Frimdfade it
is not likely, and Nachtigal himself says he is inclined to disbelieve
it ; its existence is negatived by the unequal rise and fall of the two
rivers. As in the dry season it is said hardly to flow at all, it hardly
alEeots my argument.
The origin of the idea that the Makua flows to the Shari is found in
the tale told to Sohweinfurth in Monbuttu, that it flowed to a big water
wher^ the people prayed like the Arabs, and had white clothes like
theirs. I explain this tale by another whose truth is immaterial as long
as we suppose it to have been repeated for true. Bafai, in 1877, on the
banks of the Mbomo, told Pdtagos that beyond the Shinko was a river
Sebanga, running south to th6 Mbomo (the Enji we may suppose), and
beyond it another which bifurcated, one part going to the Shari, and the
other to the Mbomo (Kuta). Bafai also told him that Zebehr had a few
years before descended the Tsigo (Shinko?) in a canoe to the Mbomo,
and from the Mbomo had ascended the Sebanga * and had learnt of
this other peculiar river. Potagos adds that he asked Zebehr about this
afterwards, who assured him that this was so. If Zebehr and Bafai
believed such a tale it would also reach Munza's through the Arabs.
Li face of the known positions of the Makua and Mobangi it is
scarcely necessary to weigh the Shari hypothesis any more. Before the
discovery of the Mobangi was made it was scarcely tenable.
The matter is now one of practical importance. The Mobangi is
known to be a waterway hardly inferior to the main Congo for practical
purposes : deep ; never less than 600 yards wide, even in February, when
the Euta-Makua certainly (and it too apparently) is at its lowest level ;
and navigable at all times from Stanley Pool 650 miles thence straight
N.N.E. to lat. 4° 20' N. beyond the limit which the Congo State, by
private treaty with Germany, has placed to its future " sphere of opera-
tions," and beyond the limits which the French will probably occupy if
they win in their dispute with the Congo State as to which of the two
shall not operate in the Mobangi basin. It is then found to turn sharply
to the east, flowing from the east through a gap it has cut in a line
of quartz and red clay hills 1000 feet high, hills which may be a
• The souroes of this Sebanga were pointed out to Potagos on the mountain in the
Shari basin, where he had such an extensive view. It is probably the EnjL All tiiat
we know of the chances of such a bifurcation is that the lower Ardhe runs in a wide flat
country, where there were no mountains to be seen to the south.
z 2
302
BETWEEN THE NILE AND THE CONGO j
eon tin 11 at ion of tlie billy watershed between tho Makiia at Ali Kobo
arid the sources of the Ngala, Tho gap is narrow, and big rocks rise
in mid-stream; at bigli water it is diilctilt to pass; but at Ljw water,
after reconnoitring, Mr. Grenfell got the Peace through easily, in
February. Where wo know the Kuta-Makua next, they are placid and
colossal ; the Shinko at Marra is still 90 yards wide, 20 to 3J> feet deep
in Octtjber, and only 1980 feet above the sea. Stanley Pool i& now said
to be 916 feet above the sea ; * but Mr. Grenfell, who is more likely to
be righf, makes it only 800 feet. Equator Station at Mobangi mouth is
130 feet, and Grenfell's furthest just 500 feet higher— eay 1300 feet
Therefore more rapids on the Mobangi-Kuta may be expected.
The river strikes at the very roots of the slave trade, and renders its
suppression easy by commercial and peaceful means* Take away the
ivory, turn a lucrative trade from Khartum to the Congo, and the great
kicentive to slave-hunting and slave wars is gone; philanthropy is
cheap, fur the profits will be enormous. Ivory is now worth in London
twenty to twenty-five times the cost of its transport from Stanley Pool
to here, the remaining 900^ or so a ton will pay for river steam ers,
trading stations, and the rest. Lupton carried his ivory from sonth and
south- west of the Makna, and almost all of it from the Congo side of
the watershed overland to Meshra. He claimed to show a net profit
through this trade of 60,000?., reckoning the whole cost of his prorince
as part of the expenses.
What Gordon proposed to do when writing as Governor of the
Tnngo to Stanley, iu January 1884, can be done now. **If we act in
the countries where tiie slave-traders hunt and make treaties with the
cbiefs, we can prevent their raids and trulj^ stop the slave trade." f
We have not heard the hist of the negro Sudan or of the way thither,
A way lies through the country of the Zandehs the loyal subjects of
Ges^i Paslia and Lupton Bey, up the two rivers Dr. Junker has traced
to their confluence.
After thepflper.
Sir FaAKcis de Wiston considered that the Society was much indebted to
Mr, Wills for his paiier, which was really a fiistory of the exploration of Central
• 280 metres. Mr. "Wautere haj? juat accepted this figure.
t These blocks are l)t*coming llie Jnnksanefl or ftLimelakea of the Sudim, juat as
Gordon prophesied they would. " My heliof is," he wrote, ** that thid Mobdi business
will be the end of bkvf^ry in the fciudun. The Amha havo inranahly put their Bhi¥C8
ill tlie front and araaetl thera (with rifles); the slaves have seen tlmt tluy were plucky
while their msiateri^ isbifltiid. U it likel3' that they will ever yjehl obedience to their
masters na heretofore ? '' The lii?it Blue Book id an inatnictive commeuUiry upou this.
Upon a promise of B> dtillar:* u hfnid to ta^^h hlaek who should come down to I'^gypt
deaertions hnve he^im fjeely^aii'l the wuiild-be-eoDqiieiror of Assouon, Wnhi(l-ei-Njoiirai,
|<nd to stop and try to dimrm Ibe eiily drilled trtwp» or decent riflenieri that he hud in
h'lA army. [Sinec this was writ! en Njounii ims btxn beaten by thr loyaliata and the
Klinrttun Khahf bus been Imnskrring hU siigeiuil to the swampy isluud at Khartum
fuj fcDX of a loyalist coalition.]
PR. JDKKEU AND THE (WELLEJ MAKUA,— DISCL'SStON.
303
kirica^ and will prove very useful to students of that region, giving, as it did,
succinct account of what Imd taken ptnce tliere during the i^ast ten years.
The question which most interested him was whetlit-r the Congo would in future be
the route to the dislrict( and whether the Mobangi would prove navifiable up t©
Kibali. Mr- Wills had omitted to mention that Greofell in comin<^ down ran on
ETOcks, and very nearly gank his vessel, the Peace, which only drew 18 inches of
] water. It was a general characteristic of a 1 those rivers to have rapids where the
[navigation became very dangerous. Therefore until it was known whether its
eourse was navigable it would not be safe to prophesy whether the Mobangi (or
Welle) would or would not become the great highway in the future* He hud been
cynnected with the Emin expedition, because of his friondiship with Mr. Stanley^
The expe^iition arrived at the Cape on the 10th March, and reached the mouth of
the Congo on the 18th, one day ahead of the calculated time, without any hitch or
misadventure. He ha^l juHt received a telegram from Sir Frederic Goltlsmiti, the
Presiilent of the West African Telegraph Company, stating tliat the Mudma arrived
all well with a party of 796 all told. Mr. Stanley's party numbered 638. All the
Europeans were well an4 in excellent spirits, Tip|X)o Tib was with them, in order
that they might get as much information aa possible out of him with regard to the
country which it was projjosed to cross. The exp<idition were about to enter into the
terrifcofy of the Congo Free State, and the Committee were sure that the King of the
■ Belgians and hia officers serving there, would do all in their power to forward the
party on at the most rapid rate possible. Of coarse, calculations made abont travel
in Central Africa were subject to variations, but it was hoped and belie vet! that
Mr, Stanley would arrive at Stanley Falls and cross the 350 miles to Wadclni by
the middle or end of Jnly. The messengers despatched from Zanzibar would no
doubt, carry to Emio Fasha the tidings of the relief that was being sent, and that
would keep his soldiers in good heart. It might be thought that the route from
Zanzibar was very much shorter than the Con;zo route, but from Wadtlai te
Zanzibar would Deceasitate a land journey of over 100 days. ITiat was the oidoion
of Mr, Stanley and Colonel Grant, both of wh<jm had had great experience in
African travel j but by the Congo route the land journey could be accompliahtd in
about fifty days. Among Emiu's party there were many women and children,
with whom an overland Journey of 100 days would be a very ditlicult task. It
was also known that when once a road was opened in Africa by a white m tin it
became known as a white man^a road, and if the territory described by Mr. Wills
were once traversed by Europeans a great blow would be tstruck at the heart of the
slave trade.
Mr. Ravenstein said that Dr. Junker's work was among the very best lliat
had been done in Africa. To him and' Schwelnfurth we owed nearly all we know
about the countries lying to the west of the Upper Nile, He had found no difBciilty
in adjusting the work of these explorers to the latitudes observed by Mr. Lupton.
Still, the map of that part of the country rested upon very unsatisfactory data,
if cither the Meahra er Rek, and a point on the Upper Veyi, had been determined
with ftocuracy. As to the latitude of the former, Luptou and Pctherick dilTered to
the extent of ten miles, whilst Marno*a and Petherick's observations in the south
were quite irreconcilable with each other. For the longitudes of these places wo
still had to trust to very unsatisfactory itineraries. We ought not too readily to
accept the positions inserted upon Dr. Junker's most recent map, for a survey of a
winding river, unchecked by observations for latitude, or facilitated by prominent
landmarks, was a task not very easy of accomplishment. He trusted that Mr.
Stanley's nilief expedition would bring home a few points fixed with great care. H«
supposed that after Dr. Junker's most recent statements they roust ftccept it as a
304
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
fact tbat the Welle-ilakiia found its way into the Mobaogl. Still, he could not
help thirxkic^ that with the facta until quite recently before them, as good a case
might have been made out in fayoiir of the Shari as of that tributary of the Congo.
Dr. Schweinfurth told them that the Welle begins to rise about the middle of April,
whilst the lower Shari first rose Benaihly in June, and waa highest in September and
the begianiDg of October. The discharge of the Welle was estimated by Schweiofurth
at iOfiOO cubic feet a second when in flood, whilfit the Shari, according to Nachtigal,
discharges 64y(X>0 feet in springs when it is lon\ Assume a rise of twelve feet, and
the discharge would be nearly 200,000 cubic feet. We knew little about the way
in ^vhich the Shari conducted itself on its way to Lake Tsad- There might be a sort
of half-way house, he meant a lake, from which it Issued with reduced volume. It
was known, however, that the ri?er turned B|K?ndthrift en approachiog the lake, and
instead of going along decently, it sent one branch to the right, another to the left,
and even parted wnth some of itg water to the Benne, This, at all events, was
asserted by Br, Yogel to be the case. As to the Mobangi, it appeared to differ
considerably according to the seasons. Where Grenfell passed with ease. Captain
Ruuvier failed to make any progress. The Shari, notwithstanding its vagaries, was
a considerable river all the year through, and kept Lake Tsad, whose water-level
might fairly bo estimated at 10,000 square miles, pretty well up to its level, even
causing it occasionally to overflow through the Bahr el GazaL If we assumed the
annual rainfall over the Tsad to amount to 36 iochea a year, and the evaporation
to 120 inches, then that lake won Id require an annual supply of two million miUiona
of cubic feut to maintain its level, and this the Sliari alone contributed at the rate of
63,570 cubic feet a second. Unfortunately, in all these speculations we dealt with
assumptions and not with facta, for the volume of none of the rivers in question
had ever been accurately ascertained even for a BiDgle day. The basin of the Tfiad,
which covered an area of 550,000 square miles, of which 246,000 were unproductive,
yielding no rain, was deserving of being exjdored, and he hoped that the Royal
Niger Company would make it their business to settle the various problemB still
awaiting solution.
GEOGKAPHICAL NOTES,
I
Dr. Jimker, — The distinguislied Afiican explorer, Dr. Wm. Junker, will
arrive in London in a fow days, and it is expected that ho will read a
paper at the Society'H meeting on the 9th inst. The preliminary sketch-
map given in the present number, in illustration of Mr. Wills's paper,
shows the substance and the extent of Br. Junker's discoveries. Since
the end of 1883, Dr. Junker has been with Emin Bey, shut up in the
Equatorial Province on the Upper Kile, and only last year euoceeded in
negotiating a passage through Dganda, and bo reached Zanzibar about
Christmas, Dr. Junker's travels in the Sudan and Central Africa have
lasted from the spring of 1876 to the end of 1886, with the exception of
about a year and a half in 1878-80* In his first journey he found the
sources of the Wollo Makua near Lake Albert Nyanza, but Suleiman's
rebellion and his own ill-health prevented further exploration to the
west. In 1880-83 he explored the basin of tho Makua and Kuta,
(Upper Mobangi), travelling without any armed escort, and known
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 305
ihe Paaha's (Gessi's) "brother. The news of the capture of Rumbek by
the rebels in the end of 1883 made him retire upon Lado to Emin Bey.
A new Expedition to the Owen Stanley Bange, New Guinea.— The
Gkrverhment of Victoria are preparing to send out a well-equipped
expedition to explore the Owen Stanley range from Port Moresby, and
have offered the leadership to the man of all others best able to carry
so difficult an undertaking to a successful issue, namel}', the Bev. J.
Chalmers. A grant of 2000^ has been made towards the cost of the
expedition, and further oontributions are expected.
Climate of Blant3rre, South Central Africa. — We have received copies
ef a brief report of meteorological observations, taken during the year
1886 (with instruments lent by our Society) by Dr. Milne, of the
Scottish Missionary Station at Blantyre, which supply information
regarding the interesting subject of local climate in Central Africa,
otherwise so difficult to obtain. Blant3rre is situated on the highlands
between the river Shir6 and Lake Shirwa, in S. lat. 15° 47' 30" and
K long. 85° 3' 54", at an altitude of 3320 feet above the sea-level. The
obaervations show the mean temperature of the year to be 64*8° Fahr.,
the hottest months being October, November, and December (respectively
74-2°, 73-9°, and 73-1°); the coldest, June and July (60-9° and 58-2°);
the mean daily range showing a maximum of 21 '8 (August), and a
minimum of 10*4° (March). The total rainfall of the year was 55*78
inches, and rain fell on 109 days. The greatest daily rainfall was 2*35
inohes, in January. The rainfall for 1882 was 50*84 inches, and for
1882, 62*72 inches. The prevailing winds are easterly — south of east
in March and July, north of east during the rest of the year. Westerly
winds, north of west from October to March, and south of west in
January and February, include only 64 out of an annual total of 730
observations ; they nearly always bring rain, although the greater pro-
portion of the rain comes from an easterly direction. The mean
monthly range of the barometer was *23 inch; the mean daily range
•44 inch.
Captain Casati. — The two couriers which the Milan Society for
Commercial Exploration in Africa and the Italian Geogmphical Society
have united in sending out for the relief of their compatriot, are
announced as having started on the 9th March for Unyoro. They are
travelling under the powerful protection of Tippo Tip, and carry very
little baggage. They are further provided with letters of credit to all
the mission and commercial stations along the route, so that Casati, on
his return in their company, will not be without the necessary means.
It is expected that the return journey will have been completed in less
than nine months' time. These messengers will be able to commtmicate
to Emin Bey the news of Stanley's expedition for his relief. — The
latest news (23rd January) from Uganda announces the safe arrival
30S
GEOGRAPHICAL KOTES.
at its ileetination and return to Uganda of the caravan which Dr.
Jtmker equipped and despatched to Eiuin Bey in August 1886,
The Mungala River (Ceatral Africa). — A very brief account of a
journey made by the Belgian Lieutenant Baert on this river is published
in the * Monvement Geographique* (1887, No. 5). The Mungala is one of
the northern tributaries of the Congo, and ie described as unimportant
by Greufell, who howe%*er did nut navigate it for any great distance.
Lieutenant Baert a^icended the river fur 220 miles, reaching a point in
8"" 30' N. lat, and 22^ E, long., which is supposed to be very near
Dr. Junker's most westerly point. Here he was debarred from fm-ther
progress by the rapids. It is certain, however, that the Mungala is not
identical with the Welle» because Lieutenant Baert found the breadth
of the former to be only about 11 yards» and its greatest depth 5 feet,
whereas the breadth of tbe Welle at Ali*Kobo in Baasange Land is bo
great that Dn Junker oonld not determine it,
A TiBit to Sokoto. — The * Mittheilungon * of the German- African Abbo-
oiation, and the ' Verbandlungen ' of the Berlin Geographical Society,
publish further reports of the visit to Sokoto of Messrs, Standinger and
flartert, members of the expedition of the late Mr. Flegel. Starling
from Loko on the Benue on August 12tb, 1885, the travellers arrived on
the fourth day at Anasiirawa, the residence of a king subject to the chief
of Zaria. His palace is enclosed within a lofty battlemented mud-wall,
and is an imposing structure. The interior, however, is disappointing.
Two days afterwards they reached Kefi-Abd-es-Songa, one of the moat
important parts of the Haiissa empire, where European merchandise is
exchanged for ivory* I'hey found tho market well supplied with
provisions and native manufactureB, including leather wares, pottery,
cutlery, and textiles, as also with slaves. Passing Gitata, grotesquely
perched on a rock and the beautiful Panda valley, tbey crossed, on
September 7th, a lofty range of granitic mountains, and arrived two days
afterwards at Kashia, a flourishing Fulbe settlement. After a delay of
eleven days they were permitted to proceed to Zaria, which had
previously been visittd only by Clappertcm and Vogel. The town
covers a large area, but is thinly peopled. It is enclosed by a lofty wall,
pierced by numerous gates, at every one of which stands a tax-collector,
who levies a toll in cowries upon all persons attending the market
The market was well attended, and plentifully supplied wdth cattle,
aa^B, sheep, goats, horses, and slaves. The native nianufacturea
exhibited mucli taste, but were dearer than EuroiK^an. The delay
which occurred here was availed of to pay a flying visit to Kano* After
their return they left for the camp of the Sultan of Sokoto, who had
taken up his quarters within a day's journey of Kaura, tb
Zamfara, and was engaged collecting tribute from the
kings and towns* The suUan granted them an audie*^
4
1
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
S07
received tlie presents which had been sent him bj the Gorman Emperor,
^nd which consisted of lifteen needle gnns, cavalry ewoTds and sabres,
:mirrora, ivory carvings, bmct^lets, etiiffa and jewellery* He assured his
^nsitor that his *' Emiiire was open to all traders ; that ground would be
oeded for buildiog factories, and that not an inch of land had been
surrendered, nor a monopoly granted to the English " Previonsly to
letuming to Loko the Gernifin envoys visited Sokoto (where thoy
arrived on January 12th» 1880), Gandti, and Wumu, where the Sultan
presented thera with a reply to the Emperor's letter, and with a bill for
a million cowries drawTi upon the King of Zaria, who commuted the
puyment by the gift of a horse* Leaving Wurnu on February 20th,
they were back at Loko on April 20th. The accuunt is accompanied by
^ valuable map,
MM. Capus and Bonvalot in Central Aiia,— Furtlicr news* of these
^X^vellers hfis reachetl the Geographical Society of Paris in a letter
"Hrritten from Margilan (Ferghana) ^shich relates their movements down
^O 23rd February last. Their stay at Samarkand, after unauccessfully
^^'ttempting to enter Afghanistan, was not of long duration. They had
'i^cided to return to France by way of Karchi, Kerki and the Turkoman
'insert on the Afghan frontier, w^hen, hearing that caravans in winter
^:x*eqnently travel from Kashgar to Leh (Ladik), they determined tti try
^'tliis route to British India, With this objt^ct they set out quickly to
^^Jargilan, where at the time of writing they were making preparations
:t\»r this important journey. The plans of the tiavellers, w^hich had been
lodified at the suggestion of General KaralkoflF, to whoso iissistance they
rore greatly indebted on their la-st journey, were as follows. At
<Ijultcha, their base of operations, provisions, pack and saddle-horaes
^^would be obtained, and also a stock of fuel, as they had to cross a perfect
desert at an altitude of from 13,000 to 1G,000 feet. From Gultcha
"tliey would proceed through the Taldik (?Tea-ek) pass to Lake Kara Kul,
~t;hen over the pass of Tuyak, and along the frozen river of AkbaitaL
^Ai*ter following this a! ream for t^ome distance, the travellers w^ould leave
it and endeavour to reach the little river Almagan, near the khanate of
IKundjut, in order to avoid being stopped by the Kara^Kirghiz and tlio
-Afghans. They would then push on to Nagar through the passes of
Market and Yassin. This route presents few difficulties in winter,
which is the beat season for avoiding conilicti w*ith the summer
inhabitants of the Pamir. The travellers hoped to be able to conciliate
the young ruler of Kundjut, who had quite recently succeeded his
father, after having caused hira to be assassinated by two of Ids
Bervantfi, In view of the importance of this route through country
little known to Europeans, we shall await with intt^rest the result ot
this bold enterprise,
• Vide Froc. E.G.S, 1&87, p. 215.
308
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
Surveys and reconnAiasaEces in ITpper Burma. ^ Colonel Wood-
thorpe, R,E., arrived at Paimgbyin on the Kjendwin (lat, 24^^ 16',
long. 94° 50') on the 27th January, having crossed the Knbo valley
from Tammu by vvliat is called the Sweja route* Leaving Tammu on the
25th, he marched to Auktang, then to Kaia, 6 miles north of Auktang,
whence ho ascended the Kyendwin in a Berthon boat to Paungbyin.
From Faungbyin, Colonel Woodthorpo was to proceed a five days* march
up the Yen or Urn river, accompanied by Lieutenant Daly, the political
officer. They intended to proceed by an inland route and return by river,
paying a visit to Samjok (Thaungdut) on the way. After this trip,
Colonel Woodtborpe intenda to go to Kindat, whore he hopes to meet
Mr< Ogle* Up to the present, though delayed by bad weather, they have
cleared and observed at 8 peaks, and fixed a good many points to work
from ; while they have surveyed the Kubo valley and gained a fair
knowledge of the hills to the west, which are inhabited by Chins or
Bunnese Nagas. The Yen river has been partially surveyed, and also a
good deal of the country to the south-east of Manipur and west of the
limit of Major Badgley's survey of 1882, The outturn of work tip to
the end of January amounts to 800 square miles on the quarter inch
and 2G0 square miles on the one-eighth of an inch scale, — Captain Hobday fl
reports from Mandalay that he had just returned from the I?uby mines^ ™
marching with a column first to Mainlnng, then to Mogok, where
Mr. Kennedy, who had surveyed up from the river at Kyan-nyat, met
him* He then went on to Engouk (elevation COOO feet), which is to be _
an experimental sanitarium ; the climate is cold and invigorating, the U
temperature at night going down to 26" Fahr. From Engouk, Captain
Hobday returned to Mandalay by a new route via Shwen-aungbin to
Thabytkyon on the Irawadi, which is reported to be much better and
shorter than that vitl K.yan*nyat, which becomes impas&able in the rains.
Mr. Kennedy is left in the Kuby mine district to continue the survey,
and Captain Hobday intends to accompany the Sawbwa of Thibaw of
the Shan States back to his capital, and to take the opportunity to recon-
noitre a large bit of unknown country. He expected, in all probability,
to be away from Mandalay till the end of March. fl
Horth Alaska, ^^Some interesting detaila concerning Lieut. Howard's
daring journey across the north of Alaska, which we briefly noticed in
the December number of the * Proceedings ' (p. 789), have recently been.
published. In the course of his expedition he descended the Ikpikpuk,
the river mentioned by natives as flowing between the Yukon and the
Glacial Ocean. Acconipanied by a sailor named F, J. Price, ho started
on 12th April, 1886, from Fort Cosmos on the Kowak river, with instruc-
tions from Lieut. Stonoy, of whose expedition ho was a meoiberj to cross
the country from the river Putram to Point Barrow. He took with him
two sledges and sixteen dogs. He travelled as far as practicable in
company with the natives of diflferent tribes, and in this way was
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 309
escorted by from 30 to 100 men at a time. The journey was fall of
hardships, and the cold intense, the thermometer descending as far as
30° below zero ( ? Centigrade). In the mountainous districts it became
necessary to unpack the baggage and carry it. Lieut. Howard was very
well received by the natives, who had never seen a white man. The
people resemble the Esquimaux rather than the Indians of North
America ; they are, without exception, given to the use of tobacco ; men,
women, and children all smoke. The traveller journeyed in the sledge
for seven days on the river Cadwell, which was frozen all over, and then
crossing a mountain chain he discovered the river Ikpikpuk. From
23rd May to 3rd June he encamped close by its source. He now suffered
much from hunger, his supply of provisions ])eing completely exhausted,
and unable, like the natives, to eat putrefied seal fat, he had to content
himself with roots. Upon the breaking up of the ice, he started down
the river in a boat made of skins sewn together, and descended the river
for 200 miles, down to its mouth, where it forms a great number of lakes
and swamps, some of which are more than five miles broad. He arrived
with his skin boat on the shore of the Arctic Ocean at Point Barrow,
whence he returned to San Francisco, having travelled for a distance
of 1000 miles in Alaska. He determined his position daily by astro-
nomical observation.
Antarctic Exploration. — We learn from Melbourne that a further
step * has been taken in promotion of an expedition towards the South
Pole by leading men in the colony of Yictoria. Acting on an offer
made by the gallant Arctic explorer Sir Allen Young to lead such an
expedition, it is stated that Sir Graham Berry has brought the question
of a Government grant towards the cost of the enterprise (stated to be
8000Z.) before the Cabinet, and that the matter is being urged forward
with a view to the vessel or vessels starting from Hobson's Bay in
October or November next. The object of the expedition is to be
entirely geographical, but incidentally much advantage is expected to
accrue to the whaling and sealing interests who would profit by the
information gained. — It is rumoured that a movement is on foot also in
Sweden for the despatch of an expedition to the Antarctic regions, and
that Baron von Nordenskiold has expressed his willingness to take the
command.
Oerman New Ouinea. — Great activity is being displayed by the
New Guinea Company, and their Chief Commissioner, Admiral von
Schleinitz, in making voyages of discoveiy along the coast of this part
of New Guinea. The first two numbers of this year's * Nachrichten
iiber Kaiser Wilhelms-Land * contain reports upon these operations.
Huon Gulf has been thoroughly explored, with the result that besides
the rectification of the coast-Une, eight natural harbours, previously
♦ Vide * Proceedings R.G.S.,' 1886, p. 718.
310
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
unknown, have been survejed^ and nine rivera discovered. Wliile tL©
party was enable to ascend these streams for any great distance, it
seems pretty certain that one of them, Markham rivers presents an
excellent starting-point for the exploration of the interior, as the river-
valley is broad, and bordered by high mountain chains. The coast
between Astrolabe Bay and the mouth of the Empress Augusta river
was explored during November last. This journey led to the discovery
of new bays, islands, and streams, which will cause much alteration to
existing maps. Information regarding the character of the country
and its suitability for cultivation has been collected. A very carefully
prepared map of Huon Gulf, on scale 1 ; 500,000, is published with the
foregoing reports.
The Great Watersheds of the Globe.— General von Tillo, the well-
known Russian geographer, contributes a brief note to the current
number of Petermann'a * Mittoilungen * on the subject of the principal
waterslieds of tbe earth. He gives a cartographical representation of
this great water-divide which, starting from Capo Horn, exten^ls along
the whole of the west coast of the American continent up to Behring
Straits, and then, continuing on tliG opposite side of the Straits, runs in
a kind of irregular diagonal across the continents of Asia and Afnwi,
terminating at tlie Cape of Good Hope. This diagonal runs roughly along
the line of the great mountain ranges of Central Asia which end in the
Caucasus, and then, with a bend tLruugb Syria and across the Istlimus of
Suez, follows the monntaintj of the West of Africa down to the Cape.
The whole line is thus unbroken in its continuity, except for a lew
miles at Behring Straits. After this great watershed, the next in im-
portance is, according to General Tillo, that of the Indian-Pacific, and
then follow tho particular water-divides of the different continents. It
will be seen that the line sketched above has a characteriatic concavity
as regards the North Polar-Atlantic basin, to which belong the greater
part of the land-masses of the old world and the greatest part of tho
land in the new.
The German " GeogTaphentag,"— The annual Assembly of German
Geographers took place this year at Karlsmhe, from April 14th to 17th.
Among the more important subjects brought before the meeting were
Antarctic Explorations, by Dr. Neumayer ; Progress am! Preiseut Position
of German Surveys, by Dr, Jordan of Hanover ; On the Promotion of
Geographical Study and Education ; On Morocco, by Professor Rein ;
On MounUin Grouping, by Dr. A, Bohm ; The Natural Conditions of
Historical and Social Development in the Rhine Valley and the Black
Forest, by Professor Gotheim. Herr Paul Reicbard gave an account of
bis recent journeys in East Africa, and Herr Hugo Ztillor read a piper
on the Buundaries of tho Explored and Unexplored Region in Togoland
and the Cameroons.
( 311 ;
REPOBT OF THE EVENING MEETINGS, SESSION 1886-7.
Ninth Meeting, 2Qth March, 1887. — General R. Strachey, r.b., f.r.8.,
Vi<»-Presideiit, in the Chair.
Elkctionb.— i>r. B. Borun ; Frederick V, Dichim, Esq. ; Colonel Augmtm
Le Mesurier, B.E. ; John Henry Lile, Esq, ; Alexander Macdonald, Esq. ; Arthur
Patchdt Martin, Esq. ; John H. May, Esq, ; Philip MenneU, Esq. ; Jos. Gurdon
Leyctsttr Stephenson, Esq., c.e.
The paper of the evening was : —
•* Between the Nile and the Congo : Dr. Junker and the (Welle) Makua." By
J. T. Wills. Ante, p. 285.
Tenth Meeting, 25th April, 1887. — General R. Strachey, r.e., f.r.s.,
Vice-President, in the Chair.
Elections.— (7corgfc Stapylton Barnes, Esq. ; Staff- Surgeon Horace E. F, Cross,
B.N. ; Charles Washington Eves, Esq. ; Jos. Wm. Johnson, Esq. ; Lieut.'Cohnel
Edmund Molyneux ; Edw. Wm. Parson Sy Esq, ; Townsend Percy, Esq, ; Bev.
Charles E. Stevens, b.d., ph.d. ; Sir John WHloughby, babt. ; Matthew Wyatt, Esq.
Pbesentation — O. Stanley Philip, Esq.
Royal Medals and otheb Awabds fob 1887.
At the opening of the meeting, the Chairman announced that.
The Royal Medals and other awards for tho present year had that day been
adjudicated by the Council, as follows : —
The FonNDEB*8 Medal, to Lieut.-Col. T. H. IIoldich, b.e., in consideration
of the services he has rendered to geographical science by the zeal and devotion
with which he has carried out the surveys in Afghanistan ; first, in 1878-80, when
he explored the Bori Valley route and mapped the country near the Beluchistan
border, and subsequently, as senior survey officer with the army in Northern
Af;;hanistan, ascended the Lughman Range ; in 1881-83, when in the course of his
surveys of the Eastern Afghan boundary he carried his Instruments to the summit
of the Takht-i-Suliman ; and lastly in 1884-86, when, as chief of the survey party
on the Russo- Afghan Boundary Commission, he availed himself of the opportunity
to extend the survey operations over an area of more than 100,000 square miles.
Also for his numerous valuable contributions since 1879 to the Society's
* Proceedings.'
The Patbos's or Victobia Medal, to Mr. G. Grenfell, for the extensive
explorations he has carried out during his thirteen years' residence in West Africa ;
first in the Cameroons country, and afterwards on the Congo, and especially, for
his reconnaissance surveys of the tributaries of the Congo, eleven of which he has
ascended, laying down their courses in a series of preliminary charts on a large scale.
The MuBCUisoN Grant, to Mr. George Bourne, second in command, and now
sole survivor of the Landsborough Expedition which crossed the continent of
Australia in 1861, in search of Burke and Wills.
The Back Premium, to Sarat Chandra Drab, for his researches in Tibet, in
1879 and 1881-82.
The Gill Memorial, to Mr. J. F. Needham, in recognition of his services in
exploring the valley of the Lohit Brahmaputra between Assam and the Zayul
Valley of Tibet.
The paper read was : —
" The Lu River of Tibet ; is it the source of the Irawadi or the Sal win ? " By
General J. T. Walkrr, r.e., t.r.s.
PROCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES.
GeograpMcal Society of Pariflt Marcli 4thj 18S7: M. Jansbbk in the
Chair. — ^The Miniater of Public iDStriiction forwarded a circular annouDcing that
the 25tli Annual Coogrt-gs of the Learned Societies would be held on the 31 fit Maj»
at the Sorboone Hall, aud giving the list of stibjecta to bo discussed by the Geo-
graphical Section. — A commnnication was read by the Secretary from M, A, Dumont.
civil engineer, ^ving iome account of the scheme for opening up the valley of the
Euphrates to European commerce* — Dr, Lahonne informed the Society that he had
juat been charged by the Ministtfr of Public Instruction with a mission to Iceland
and the Faeroe Islands for the purpoae of further pursuiog hie researches on the
natural history of these islands, — A letter was read from Dr» A. d^Elysaeef^
physician of the Russian Imp>eriftl Guard, announcing his return to St. Petersburg
from a fre&h journey in Asia Minor, After exploring the north of Syria, he pro-
ceeded to Mesopotamia across the country of the Kurds. For three mouths he was
engi^ed in making anthropological researches in the heart of the mountaiDS of
Kurdialan and Armenia* He then travelled from Cherput to Samsum. An im-
portant work on the Upi>er Bed Biver and its affluents was received from M. Qouiii,
French Resident at 8on-Tay (Tongkioor). In a letter accompany log this presenta-
tion M, Gonfn announced that he coatemplatetl making a*complete study of the moun-
tainous districts on the borders of Tonkiog, inhabited by the Muoogs, Thos, Ghana,
and other tribes. M. Gouin*»* paper will be inserted in the Quarterly Bulletin, —
M* Petit communicated some informBtioa as to the Congo received by him in a
letter from Stanley Pool (25th December, 1886), from which we learn that the
Arabs, after gaining possession of the Falls station, had descended the river, plun-
dering as they proceeded. The Bangak station was in danger. The tmnaport
service also from the coast to Stanley Pool had been interrupted on both banks in
consequence of the attacks by the natives on the caravans ; the State appeared to
be unable to cope with the mischief. — The latest news of M, A. Thouar was con-
tained in a letter, dated 9th December, and forwarded by the Minister of Public
Inatraction. He had started on 2nd December on his journey across the Gran Chaco,
escortetl by forty men.--M. E. Hangsen Blangsted communicated the following in-
formation as to the population of Greenland, The number of natives in North
Greenland about the end of 1885 was 4414, and in South Greenland 5500; the»o
figures showed an increase for the year 1885 of 86 and 31 respectively.^The
American explorer, Mr. R. Peary, civil engineer, who was desjiatched last summer
by the Government of the United States to Ritenbenk to study the aontinenfal
Jce and its movement towards the coast, had succeeded, in company with a Dane,
in penetrating faHhor than any previous traveller* The details of his expedition
were not yet know^n.— In conclusion a paper was read hj M. Jean Broussali,
an Armenian student, on Armenia and its people. The lecture was illustrated by
projections of photogrnphic views.
^ — March ISth 1887 : M. Janssen in the Chair.— M. G. Holland, minin?
engineer, and member of the scientific mission of exploration in Tunis, sent a copy
of a oonimuuication recently made by him to the Academy of Sciences on the gec»Iogy
of the region of Lake Kelbia and the littoral of Centml Tunis. The conclusions
at which he arrives, may be summarised as follows i — the configuration of the land
on the littoral of Central Tunis has not undergone any practical alteration within
historical time. During the Roman period it is possible that the level of the wmters
was higher in consequence of very heavy rains then prevalent, but at that time, as
to-day. Lake Kelbia only communicated with the sea in an intermittent way and
FH0CE1DING3 OP POREIGK SOCIETIES.
313
Ijy as tmimportiint atream, — Tbo queeiion of the locsale of Tav©mier*8 grare again
occupied the attention of the Society, papers being read by tho Btcretary from
31U. W. Martin and Ck Joeet on the snbject.—A letter, dated 23rd Febniarj', 1887,
Tras received from the tniveHers MM. Capiis and Bonvalot, now in Central Asia. —
HL, B. du Caillaud cummunicated two short papers, one on a Chiocae Atlantis, the
odber on earthquakes in China, — M. Depgodlna forwarded, among other docnmentSj
one containing the obserrationE of the Abb4 Dengodins on the rnles formulated by
the Society for the orthography of geographical names. He complains of their
incompl«fcenefis, and states that nnmeroua Chinese and Tibetan namee cannot be
written aiccording to them. Hts instanoea, in the case of the Clunese lan;^age, the
want of any diitinction between "an" and "ane," "In" and "ine," **on*'and
"one," "h'* Boftly and strongly aspirated. As regards I'ibetan, no provision is
made by the rales for the Round "nga/' — An extract from an American paper
relative to Lieutenant Howard's Journey aorOBs Alaaka was sent by M. Jules Gmird.
— M. Ramon Liata informed the Society of his projected expedition to Tierra del
Fu^o, under the auspices of the Argentine Government. — Several publications
dealing with questions of colonisation and scientific exploration in Canada were
praiented to the Society by M, G, Demanche* Among them a report by Lieutennnt
Gordon, commander of the Ahrt on hia two years' summer cruises In Hudson's
Bay, M. Demanche pointed ont the advantages oflfered by Canada to French
emigranta,^ — M, Mich. Venukoff wrote announcing the completion of the calculation
of the length of the 52od ^tfirallel between Valencia (Ireland) and Orsk { Russia) ;
tho results obtained would be published al the end of the year. — In conclusion,
IL Castonnet dee Fosses read a pajier on the oonstntction of a new summer [jalace
at Fekin,
The Geographical and Antliropological Societies of Berlin.— Special
meeting lield »n hanour of Dn Junker on 16th March, 18S7 : Uerr W, Reiss in the
Chair. — The Chairman, after welcoming the traveller in the name of the Geographical
Society, sketched briefly his achievements, referring to the severe trials and dangers
,h6 had experienced, and coniroenting on the energy and endurance ho must have
iplayed in having iruccessfuUy overcome them. The valuable anthropological
* collections had, it was true, he said, been lost, but the traveller's diaries and the
wealth of geographical material obtained by him had been preserved, as the excellent
maps exhibited at the meeting testified. Amid great applauae from the numerously
attended meeting, the audience rising tn ma$&e from their places, the Chairman
presenttid Dr Junker with the diplonm of honorary membership of the Society.
The traveller was then welcomed in the name of the Anthropological Society by
Professor Virchow, who dwelt on the fact that Dr, Junker had grown up in an
anthropological atmosphere ; his family were natives of Gxittlngen, where Blumen-
bacb then taught, and later on he had oome under the influence of K, E. von Biier.
After these preliminaries. Dr. Junker commenced his lecture with a short reference
to the purely geographical results of his journey, the details of which, ho said, he
desired to reserve for a written account. On the present occasion ho would
endeavour to give his hearers a general sketch of the regions through which ho had
{naaed, and of the origin of the Mahdist rebellion. His usual mode of travelling,
inaamuch aa he was never accoraf>anied by a largo band of porters, but as a rule
only by a small number of servants, was to arrange for a long stay at a given
point, and from there to make extended tours into the neighbouring territories.
In dealing with the native {xitentates, it was his practice in the irst instance
to send messengers to their places of residence, through whom ho assured
them of his peaceful intentions, and of the fact that ho was coming without a
military escort. On the side of the wary chiefs, envoys were then usually
PflOC£EDING3 OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES.
sent back with tLe traveller s messeagers in order to satisfy themselves of the
truth of the asaertioDs made. In this way the traveller gained easy admie-
sion everywhere. I'ho stations at which he was obliged to lemain for some
length of time were always surrounded with a fence and a hedge of thorna on
account of the numerous leopards in the vicinity. These animals very frequently
attack human beings, particularly the women, who go out in the evening to fetch
water. The habit which they have of returning to their prey, if iinahl© to conBume
it all at one time, causes them to he eaBily caught in snares laid for them* Lions,
which abound in equally large numbers, are more cautious ; they avoid nets of every
kind. The natives therefore secure themselves at night by spreading light nets
over their ]mts. Hunting is laborious work, in consequence of the tall, tliick, sharp
l^raas. Only during the months of December and January, when the dry grass is
burnt up, is it jxissible to take exercise with comfort. The game retreats to those
spots where the grass is not burnt away ; here the elephants, whose feet are injured
by the burning of the grass, fall an easy prey to the Akkas. In April the grass
becomes again so tail that travelling is exceedingly arduous. The great Monbuttu
and Niam Niam empires have completely fallen to pieces in consequence of having
been divided among the very numerous descendants of the late powerful ruler ; the
people are continually quarrelling^ and throughout the wliole of the country traversed
by Dr. Junker there is not one really powerful king. In Monbuttu land the women
paint their bodies with tricolonred devices resembling an inlaid floor ; among the
women of rank this toilet is extmordinarily elaborate and ingenious. The first signs
of the Mahdiet movement, which was destined to set the whole of the Sudan on fire,
be;;an in the year 1862. The revolt of the Denka tribes cut the traveller ofl^ from
returning to Bahr-el-Ghazal by way of Meshra-el-Eek. At first Lupton I ley hoped
to be able to quell the rebellion, but inasmuch aa the men under his command were
only irregular troojis, Dongolas and Arabs, instead of the native troops which, as a
rule, remained true to the Government, and as he received no help from the Egyptian
Government, he waa compelled, after many unsuccessful battles, and after being
deserted by his troops, who fraterniatd with their fellow-believers, to give himself
up to the Mahdists, in whose han<ls he is at the present moment a prisoner. Br*
Junker defends Lupton vigorously against the attacks which have been made
upon him. Lupton, he says, did the ntmoat possible nnder the circumstances, and
fought bravely. When Dr* Junker saw tbe impossibiUty of penetrating to the
north, he retmced his steps eastwards about the end of the year 1883, and met with
pjmin Bey at Lado. Here he received the letters which had been sent to him in
the previous May from Europe; they proved to be the last tidings of home for a
long time. Instead of European news, the beleaguered men now began to receive
violent and threatening communications from the Mahdists containing reports of
the defeats of the English, to which, however, but little credence was given*
Immediately after the fall of Khartum, the Emir KaramaOa, whom the Mahdi had
despatched against Emin Bey, sent a proud, insolent letter to the latter. This
letter Dr. Junker read to the meeting. In consequence of the] continued advance of
Karamalla, who in April 1884 had seized Amadl and shortly afterwards got Makaka
into his power, Emin Bey deemed it advisable to remove the State archives from
Lndo to Dufile, and prepared himself for the worst, when suddenly the rebel leader
stopped his onward movement and returned to the north. Why he took this strange
step is an enigma which still remains to lie solved. At length, on Janimry 2nd, 1866,
Dr. Junker left Emin and Casati in order to reach Zanzibar through Unyoro. The
way in which he Bucccssfnlly accomplished this journey is wtU known. In the
opinion of the traveller, it would now be an easy matter to reconquer the Sudan
provinces, as the people are weary of war and of the continual disturbances ; more-
NEW GEOGRAPUICAL PaBUCATIONS. 21%
over, the Mahdi's sacoesiior has already heen murdered. It would almost appear as
if political considerations had prevented the reacquisition of the Equatorial provinces.
A number of (German Geographical Societies were represented by delegates at the
meeting, while others sent congratulatory telegrams. The Geographical Society of
St. Petersburg announced by telegram the nomination of Dr. Junker as an honorary
member of that Society. The map of the country traversed by Dr. Junker, which
was exhibited at the meeting, was on scale 1:410,000, having been prepared i&
Cairo under the direction of Dr. Schweinfurth, from the original maps of the
traveller. The new route-eurveys, prepared by Dr. Junker himself, comprise
the region between Dem-Bekir in the north, the Baginse Mountains in the east,
AU-Kobbo's zeriba in the west, and Ssanga on the Nepoku, which is probably the
upper course of the Aruwimi, in the south. The approximate longitude an^
latitude of these poinU are as foWowB :—Dem Bekir, long. 26^ 28', lat. 6"" 47';
Bagime MU., long. 28° 53' 30", lat 4^23'; Ali-Kobho's zeriba, long. 22° 57' 40",
lat. 3° 43'; Saanga, long. 27° 55', lat. 1° 54'.
NEW GEOGBAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
(By J. SooTT Eblth, Librarian b.o.8.)
EUROPE.
Baedeker, E.~Italy. Handbook for Travellers. Third part : Southern Italy anA
Sicily, with excursions to the Lipari Islands, Malta, Sardinia, Tunis, and Corfu.
With 26 maps and 17 plans. Ninth revised edition. Leipsio, E^arl Baedeker;
London, Dulau & Co., 1887 : 12mo., pp. xlviiL and 416. Price 6s.
Laveleye, Emile [Be]* — La P^ninsuledes Balkans. Yienne, Croatie, Bosnie, Serbie,
Bulgfuie, Boumelie, Turquie, RoTimanie. Bruxelles, C. Muquardt, 1886: 8vo^
2 vols. L, pp. 360 ; XL, pp. 435. Price 7«. 6c;.
. The Balkan Peninsula. Translated by Mrs. Thorpe. Edited and revise*
for the English public by the author, with an introductory chapter upon the most
recent events, and a letter from the Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone, m.p., with a
map. London, Fisher Unwin, 1887 : 8vo., pp. xxvL and 384. Price 16*.
[Presented by the Publisher.]
M. de Laveleye*s instructive work may be regarded as an important contri-
bution to political geography. Of course it deals largely with the history, the
public men, and the special politics of the Balkan Stat^ but at the same time
contains much that will be found useful by the geographical student. The
translation seems faithful, and is readable, and contains an introductory
chapter bringing the book up to date.
Sandys, John Edwin. — An Easter Yacatiou in Greece ; with Lists of Books om
Greek Travel and Topography and Time-tables of Greek Steamers and Railways.
With a Map of Greece, and a Plan of Olympia. London, Macmillan & Co., 1887::
cr. 8vo., pp. xvi. and 175. Price 3«. 6d, [Presented by the Publishers.]
This little book contains a short account, in journal form, of a tour in Greece
taken by the author and his wife in the spring of last year. A week was spent
at Athens, from whence excursions were made to Salamis, Eleusis, Phyle,
Pentelicus, Laurium, and Sunium ; Tiryns and Mycenas, Nemea and Corinth,
Delphi and Olympia, Zante and Corfu, were afterwards visited. The map i»
intended to show the principal land and sea routes, and the lines of railwa}*.
There is little in the book that cannot be found in well-known sources oi'
information.
No. v.— May 1887.] 2 a
316
NEW GEOQRJIPHICAL PaBUCATIONS.
Saunders-Forster, C. 0,— Beneath Parnassian Clouds and Oljinpiaa 'SuDibmc,
London, Remington Sc Co., 1887 : cr, Svo., pp. 284, Price 7«. Bd, [Presented
by the Publishers.]
A popular account of a lady*« journey in Greece. Amoiig the varioTW places
vUited may be roeotioued — Thebes, Livatlin, Chajronia, Aracbova, and Delphi ;
the valley of the Upper Kephissus, ThermopylfB, Lamia, and Stylida j Volo,
Larissa, Atbens» Korinth, Mykene, Tiryns, and Epidauros; Tempe, Kalam-
bakka, and the Metcora Monasteries.
Woodward, Horace B.— Tlie Geology of England and Wales; with Notes on
the Piiysical Features of the Country. Second Edition. With Geological Map
and Illustrations. London, George Philip & Son, 1387: 8vo., pp. xv. and 070
Pxice 18«. [Presented by the Publishers.]
ASIA,
Paris, Fiachbftcher, 1887
Braudai Fanl,^Le Hant-Mekong, on le Laos otivert.
8vo., pp. 64. Price If. 2d, (Duiau.)
This is an account of journeys made by M, Branda in 1884: and 1886 on the
Upijer Mekong, and adds something to our knowledge of that river and its
vicinity. It contains a sketch-map of the river from Sambok to Stnng-treng.
[D* AraiEOlLl^Becoeil de iVoyages et de Documents pour servir k THistoire de la
Geo;2:raphie depuis ie XIII" jusqn'k la fin dn XVl^ siMe* VIIL— Le Voyage
do Monsieur D'AramoD, Ambassadenr pour le Roy en Levant, escript par noble
hommc Jean Chesnean, fun des secretaires dudict seigneur ambaassadeur, public
ct aonote par M. Ch. Schefer, membre de rinatitut, Paris, L€foux, 1887 : large
8vo., pp. Ixi. and 295,
Contains reproductions of scene of the original plates.
Hoche, luleai — i^s Pays des Croisades. Paris: A La Librairie Illusfcr^e.
[188U.] Imp. 8vo., pp. 646. Price 15s.
The chief geographical value of tliis handsome and richly ill as t rafted work
lies in the fiict that it gives a very complete and satisfactory idea of the actual
condition of most of the places aod sites of interest in Palestine. There is besides
a vast amonnt of historical, antiqnarian, and ethnological description. The
work is the result of the author's own journeya through the country of the
Crusades, supplemented by research in various authoritative sonrccs. There
is no index, and no Us t of illustrations, and so far as we observe, only the small
map, that of Palestine,
Japan J— Memoirs of the Literature College, Imperial University of Japan, Ko. 1.
The Language, Mythology, and Geo^^raphical Nomenclatnro of Japan viewed in the
light of Aino Studies. By Basil Hall Chamberkin, including *An Ainu Gram-
mar/ by John Batchelor, and a catalogue of boiks relating to Yezo and the Ainog,
1887, published by the Imperial University, Tokyo : large 8vo., pp, 174. [Pre-
sented by H. Watanabe, President of the Imi>erial University, Toky5, Japan.]
Oliphant, Laurence. — Haifa, or Life in Jlodem Palestine. Etlinburgh & London,
BInckwood, 1887: 8vo,, pp. vi. and 369. Price 7s. 6cf. [Presented by the
Publisher,]
Mr. OHphant's letters* mainly contributed to American journals, extend
from the end of 1882 to the end of 1885. Most of this time his home was at
Haifa, on the Bay of Acre, under the shadow of Mount Carmel From this he
made frequent excursions in various directions to places of antiquarian and
historical interest. His observations on the tojx>^raphy of the country around
the Sea of Galilee are of special utility. His letters are a series of pictures of
the life of the jieopl© among whom he lived, of the country around, and of its
present condition^ geographical, social and industriaL Mr, Oliphant lived long
enough in this one region to be able to become thoroughly familiar with it, and
his obeervationa are therefore of unusual value.
SEW G£OG£APH]CAL PUBLICATION'S. 317
cp 6e gvscnle BesclTinen ran bet Kssteei Eat&r^, 16^-180S.
Ullgiynii door bet Bat&riattcb Geccctscbap rmzi Kczsrcn en WeteosdiappaL
Dade DeeL s\^nrecLbage, IL XijiK^; ISSN'S: 4uk, pp. 40$.
ftrlnmirhfT G.— DerDmobn. Lnrzij, Biedeker, 1^6: Sto, pp. SOL Ftioe
Hot StLiuuiiser b sn cf^iixer, leadent in Hiiia, and Las done much good
snrrcj vock in Falestfne;. Tbe present memoir ccntains a Terr complete stodr
ci the Jaclan distnc: to tLe east and north of the Sea of Galilee, which, lor
the fint time, vas scrreTed br Berr ^h^unacher. There are nunerous ilins-
tralvTrf and i^m\% aDd an excklent map, cc the scale of 1 : 132,000.
AFRICA.
AmmmltM J. — ^Les ExpiccmiSoos an Sene^ ec dans les Gontrees Toumet depois
L'A■t^aItf juaqc a nos joore. Precede d*ime nocke Ethnognphiqiie war Xoire
ColoBie^ par ]e Geikeral Faidherbe. Fkris, MaisoonecTv Freres ci Ch. Ledoc,
lg86: 8Ta,pp.xLs*>d444. Price 2iw W. (IhOam.)
This is a rsefd sammarr of explontioos in the Senegambian region, be-
tveen 10^ and 2CP S. lat. and extenoing inland to TlmbociG. There it a map
CD the scale cf 1 : 5,O>D,O0O, shewing the itineraries of traTeDers.
^^rtilir H^ aad &. iTOM-^-De Angola a OootnHCOsta. Dttczipcio de imia
ilipxi aaaTez do Ccotmente Afiricano por H. Gipello e B. Itcds. 2 toIs^
HAG^ Icpreosa nackcal, IS?^
Tbe Fcnzgixse, norviihssandin^ the great disooTcries thej made in the
past, hare xuc ini^nentlj been repvxnched vith not baring cootiibiited to our
ksoiriedge of Aitica to an extent a: all oanmensmte vith the rast temtocies
which ihej boli or claim in that ccntincnt. Tha: reproadi, hoverer, cm no
longe* be friiir krelkd against them. The exr^cntjoi^ carried on bj math
mes as Seipa Pinto, Capello azid Irens, hare rerr matcTiallT enlarged oar
knovledge, aikd altboo^ the narratires viuch they hire pnhLished mar not
be entitled V> a f^aoe in tLe fiist rsnk ci vorks of ibat kind, the informatioa
wkich tber cocrer is cf a verr scbs^untiAl nature, and their raloe not merelT
ephemesal like that of so ma:: j other bc!cks of irsrel with which the market
hag of reeest reaxs been flooded.
Mesoa. CapeJk^ and Irens are no iKrSoes as African exploreis. Their fanner
jocraer, of which ther poWiihed a reooid in ' BenzneDa to the tenitofj of the
Tacci' (London, 1$S2), filled np SDsne very prc*Toking bianks on oar maps,
and CQ the present oocasioii thrr hare doDC eq^ially well, if not better. If it
was not in thdr power lo riral a Liringsume or a Siankr by the brilliancy of
their ciflKyreries, they hare at all erenis laid down a track acniss the cod-
tineot which may sifely be trosted ior guidaooe.
It was origiially the intention of the anthovs to make their way inland firom
FjndM^ hot fining the ooTintzy en the npper Koroko imptacticable^ they shifted
their baas of operations to lloeaznedes^ and |Tooeded by the ordinazy route to
Hnilla, cromiiZ the Sbella nxxmtains at an eleradcn cf 6000 faet« the hig^iest
ahztnde attained throo^oat their jcmmey across the oontinesit. The enriroos
of Hinlla (5f»69 feet) are described as being admiraKy adapted for European
settlement, tie climate besng heshhy and agreeable, and the soil prododng
nearly eroything. Odc great crswback, the difficulty if ocanmanisating with
the ciast, may be orenxone in coGrse of time. After as excursion to Kipungo,
the ** lind of miliet.** the expuorers proceeded by a well-known route to Hmnhe
(3500 feet; on the Kimene, and then ascending tbe broad and swampy raUey of
that riro- as ^ as Eitere, they crossed it ai a s{«i>t where it is confined within
high banks. Its width there is 100 tc. 100 yards, its depth abont eigjit feet, and
it appears to be navig&ble throc^xTct the year. A joanxy through a deserted
cunniiT then led th«n to tbe nndnlaxing plaiean of Hands, since oocnpied by
Bo(man Gathouic misBonaries, and prtrviou&Iy risit^ by IL Dafocr, aad }pr
sereral tzaders ocming from Orambo Laitd. Mica-schist and Lanrentian gneass
are oreriaid hae bv dar, IrmfBlnnffi^ and sandstones of tertiazy and aeooDdarv
2 A 2 ■
S18
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUCATIONS.
age ^ and iLdiciitions of mineral wtalth are not wanting. The livers are partly
jieriodiciil, ad they are further soulb^ and the explorers distinguish between
" Damlms" or torrent l>eda, along which the water flows at all times in the same
direction, and '* MoIoIhk/ along which it flows io contrary directions, according to
the state of tbo flood in the rivers with which they are connected. A eireful
Bnrvey of one or more of ihese jieiiodical river-beds is a great liesidcratnm.
On July 11th the explorers arrived on the Kuban go, about 120 yards wide,
and flowing between prettily wooded banks. The Ambuella, w^ho live in the
villages alon^^ it« left hank, are physically 8n|K?rior to the tribes nearer the
coast* They dress in cloth ins tend of in hides ; are good musicians, dexterotis
smithis, ji^ood agriculturists, and expert flt^hermen. Their huts are circular,
with pointed roofs. Manioc, njiUct, and batatas are the principal crops grown^
Cattle are scarce.
The western section of the country, exteniliiig between the Kuban go and
th© Upfier Zambezi or Liambai, is a sterile waste of sand, but further east the
steppe bears a luxuriant vegetation durin"; the rRiny seasons, when it is th©
resort of va&t mumkrs of zebras, gungas (Boaelephas otmw), buffaloes, gUTis, and
gazelles, which during the dry season retire to the rivers. The population ia
scarce, and the inhabitants raise Iheir houi=ea on piles, in the midst of sworn pat,
as a security against the predatory Manbuoda and Makha. The resources of the
whole of this region are {x>or, and the vast swamps aiijoining the Zambezi are
hardly passable during the rainy season. The greatest altitude attained
between the Kuljango (3700 feet) and the Liambai (3230 feet) was 4062 feet.
On December 13th the Liamliai was crossed near Libontn,and the travellers
having followed itB valley until they were well within the borders of the empire
of the Muata Yamvo, turned lo the norlh-eastward, and reached the Kaboinpa
river, one of the principal tributaries of the Liambai, but not the main stream,
as has sometimea been supposed. The river had a widtli of about 200 yards,
and its greeniah waters flowed along with a velocity of three miles an hour.
Crccc^diles abounded. Following the course of this river, the explorers speedily
found themselves in a vast forest region, frequented by occastonal elephant-
hunters, but almost devoid of permanent inhabitants. The iiardabipa of a
march through such a region were increased by the preseoce of the tsetse, to
whose stings the riding-oxen soon fell victims. Several of the j>orters died
from exhaustion, and the caravan only escaped a more serious disaster through
its timely arrival at the village of the Muen© Kaojinga (3903 feet), a clriirf
still owing alle;iiance to the Muata Yamvo. Shortly before this, the Lualaha,
whose baisiu iulerlnces curiously with ihat of the Zambezi, had been crossed
near its source, and we are told that the natives look ujx>n this river as the real
" head'* of the Zaire, to which the Luupula is merely a tributury. CTeographers,
however, with the mfip of Atrica spread out be 'ore them, will hardly be
prepftrcd to accept this view, Ked loam predominates throughout this ioland
region, bei*ides whicii the explorers nolicetl mie4i-schist, irou-cires, and, on one
occa«ion, clinkstone, a volcanic rock, apparently of post- tertiary age.
Having crosstd the wooded hills of Kitangule and some tributaries of the
Kafue, the rsplorer^, on October L'Srd, entered the basin of the Zaire, and eight
days afterwards arrivet! in the prettily wooded district of Takata (4134 Jeet),
with wh<.>se chief, Muene Ntenke, they af>eedity established cordial relations.
They were now within the limits of the empire which Msiri, a native of
Unyarawezi (called Ukalaganja or Garangauza by the western tribes), has
carved himself out of the ancient dominions of the Kazcrabe, and which extends
trom Lake Klkonja and Uroa in the nortii to the Mushinga mountains in the
south, and from the LupJaba eastward to the Luupula. This vast region is by
no means devoid of natuml wealth, but it has been dejxipulated by war, and the
tiaveller soinelimes spends days on the march without encountering a single
human being. After some much -needed rest Captain Ivens started for the
residence ol ilsiri. His mute letl through a country of picturesque hills, and
jxist Kalabij ono of the famous copper-miQca of Katanga, the produce from
which, in the shai>e of ingots, bracelets, and wire, tiuds its way westward as
far as Bihe. Palii?o3ioic sch^ts prevail thonghout this region, and in addition
to malachite and iron-ores. Captain Ivena discovered coal.
4
1
I
4
4
HSW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUGATIONS. 819
The ** Kimpata *" of Msiri, in the district of Buukea, is approacbcd throagh
« perfect labyrinth of narrow lanes planted with eaphorluas, and decorated at
intervals widi trophies of human skalls, every one of which has a history
attached to it, proclaiming the detestable craelty of this parvenn amcmg African
rulers. Permission to proceed to Kazembe^s town, or even to visit the western
shore of Lake Moero, having been refused, on the ground of the unsettled
state of the country. Captain Ivens rejoined his companion at Ntenke^s, and
they resolved to make their w%y to the Luapula.
The intervening region is a wooded wilderness, almost deserted of men, but
abounding in elephants. The hills are composed of gneiss; the more level
tracts are covered with loam, frequently dyed red with oxide of iron. Having
snccesavely crossed the Lufira, which flows to the north, and the Loenge or
Upper Kafne (4637 feet), which is tributary to the Zambezi, the Luapula was
reached at length. It takes its course through a fringe of forest, and has a
width of about 600 yards. Kinyame, the chief of the Ma-ussi, on its further
bank, turned out to be a ''good man, with whom many days were spent
happily,** although he looked upon his visitors as spies of Msiri, and conse*
quently refused them permission to visit Lake Bangweolo or to trace the
Luapula to Lake Moero. This restriction of their movements prevented the
Portuguese explorers from joining their work with that of Lieut. Giraud. Some-
what reluctantly they turned to the south, and almost immediately they entered
a deserted wilderness, through which they travelled for 140 miles without en-
countering a single human being. At length, after suffering much hardship,
they stood upon the brink of the Mushinga range (about 3600 feet), and looked
down upon an extensive lowland which lay 1300 feet beneath them. Accus-
tomed as they had been to travel over comparatively level ground, the steep
descent proved very trying. They were very much struck by the contrast
between the verdure-clad tableland, with its woods of acacias, mupandas
(Brachyttegia iamarindoides), and other trees, and the bumt-up plain beneath.
For the first time since leaving Kapangombe, at the foot of the Sheila moun-
tains, they saw Bauhinias, baobabs, gonga-trees, thorn-trees, as also hyi^iasnas
and Livingstonia palms. The villages lay in the midst of extensive plantations
of sorgho, and lofty scaffoldings rose around them, occupied day and night by
watchmen, whose duty it is to scare away wild beasts.
The 2iambezi was reached on April 26th, at a spot about 40 miles below its
confluence with the Kafue, and thence to Quilimane the explorers followed, with
some slight variations, the route which Livingstone took during his memorable
journey in 1856. On June 24th they stood on the shore of the Indian Ocean.
The maps which accompany the narrative are drawn on the uniform scale of
1 in 1,000,000. They are evidently based upon a careful itinerary survey adjusted
to 67 observed latitudes, and 57 longitudes. The latter are all of them determined
by chronometer, for Captain Ivens lost his telescope, which precluded him from
availing himself of eclipses of Jupiter's satellites, and he looks upon lunars as
'* impracticable." He took, indeed, forty sets of lunars when on the Luapula,
but finding that the results differed to the extent of 30 min. he rejected tnem
altogether. Comparing Captain Ivens's longitudes with those previously deter-
mined on the liiambai, by Dr. Livingstone and Captain Serpa Pinto, it is
gratifying to find that the agreement with the latter is absolute, while
Livingstone's result differs to the extent of nine miles only. On the lower
Zamb^i likewise the agreement with Livingstone is equally satisfactory, the
difference, in the case of Tete, amounting to five miles only. 1 1 is therefore some-
what startling to find that Lienzo, on the Kuti, which Serpa Pinto places by
observation in latitude 14° 42' S., longitude 20° 25' E., should occupy latitude
14° 38' S., longitude 20° 52' E. on Capello and Ivens's map. In that section of
the country which adjoins the Luapula, the Portuguese explorers are sub-
stantially in agreement with Lieutenant Giraud, who shifted the Kazembe's capital
thirty miles to the east of the point assigned to that place by Dr. Livingstone.
A very full list of altitudes is given in the appendix, but as the geograp^od
co-ordinates of the tables have in many instances been rejected on the maps, we
are frequently left in doubt as to the exact locality to which the altitudes apply.
The great feature brought out by these hypsometrical observations is the uni-
320
XEW GECK3RAPHICAL PUBLICATIO.NS.
formity in tlie heiglit of the tAbleland of Central A.frjca. The greatest altitude
attained by the explorers (6001 feet) was on tbe Sheila mountain, and tbeoce,
as far as I he iliishinga range, whicli fomis tbe edge of the plateau, they never
descended helow 3000 feet, nor do they ever apjjear to have ascended a height
exceeding 5000 feet afttr ihey bad left the immediate neighbourhood of Huila.
Their lowest point (3232 feet) was on the Liambai, their highest (4885) between
that river and the Luapnla,
The meteorolo^ica] journal was kept with much care. Observations were
usually recorded ihrice daily, and extended to temperature, atmospheric pres-
sure, moisture, direction and force of the vind and hours of raiafalL
Frost was recorded on ive niinhts in June and July, when the travellers
were l>etweeu 15° 50' and 1G° S. lat., and at an altitude of 3700 to 4000 feet
above the sea. In the heart of the con line nt, between latitudes 11° and 12,° S,,
the rains eet in about the end of September, and grow heavier, and more
frequent in proportion as the aun approaches the southern tropic, attaming a
niasininm in December. In January there is a slight decrease, but a second
maximum is attained in February. By the end of March they cease. Bains
are brought by south-easterly and north-easterly winds.
Themagnetical observatiuna made at twenty-two stations are of considerable
importance, and extend to variation, dip, horizontal force, and total intensity.
Lists and descriptions of the zoological, botanical, and mineralogical specimens
collected are given in an append ix«
The illustrations throughout the work are excellent and trastwortby,
many of them bein^ taken from photographs.
Oamblei John G. — Catalogue of Printed Books and Pa|>crs relating to South
Africa. Fart IL Climate and Meteorology, Cape Town, W. A. Richards & Sons,
1885 ; 8vo., pp, xl. [Presented by John G. Gamble, Esq.]
~^— Altitudes above Sea Level of places in South Africa south of 20° S.
I^ititude, collected by John G. Gamble. Cape Town, W. A. Richards & Sons,
1886 : 8vo., pp. 28. [Prefiente<i by J. G. Gamble, Esq,]
Schwarz, [Dr.] BemllBrd-^KamernD. lieise in der Hinterlande der KoUmie.
Leipzig, Frohberg, 1680 : 8vo,, pp. 358. Price lOf. (Dulau.)
Dr. Schwarz visited the Kameroons in 1885--6. He made a laud journey
into the interior by the east danks of the mountains, and as far as the foot of
the Bafunimi Mountains, returning by tbe river. The book is largely descriptive
in character, but at the same time contains solid information conceratng tb©
districts and the people visited by Dr. Schwarz. There is a good map of the
region on tbe scale of 1 : 600,000.
AMERICA.
[America, ITnited States.]— Department of the Interior. United States Geo-
logical Survey, J. W. Powell, Director. Bulletin of the United States
Geological Survey, Nos. 30-33, Washington, Government Printing Office, 1886;
8vo., plates. [Presented by the Director of the U.S. Geological Survey.]
No, 30,— Second Contribution to the Studies on the Cambrian Faunas of
North America, by Charies Doolittle Walcolt. No. 31.— Systematic Review of
onr prtsent knowledge of Fossil Insects, including Myriapods and Arachnids, by
Samuel Hubbard Scud der. No. 32,— Lists and Analyses of the Mineral Springs
' of the United States, [A Preliminary Siudy] by Albert C. Peale, M.D. No.
33.^-Notes on the Geology of Northern California, by J. S. Diller.
[Argentine Eepublic.]— Anuario Bibliogrifico de la Repdblica Arjentina. Afio VII
— 1885. Fuadador Alberto Navarro Viola. Buenos Aires, Iran, de M, Bie
1886 : 12mo., pp. 486 and xlvi.
Hort, [Mrs.] Alfred.— Via Nicaragua. A sketch of Travel. London, Be]
1887 ; 8vo., p. 207. Price 7a. Gd. [Presented liy the Publisher.]
This is an old story of a journey to San Fiaucisco vid Nir»
to Panama, evidently before the dn3^s of r^ieific roib
4
4
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUCATIONS. 321
lively, and gives a good picture of the discomforts of travel in those days,
but there is little information of geographical interest.
[Lake Lahontan.] — United States Greographical Survey. Geological History of
Lake Lahontan, a Quaternary Lake of North-western Nevada. By Israel Cook
Russell. Washington, Government Printing Office, 1885 : 4to., pp. xiv. and 288.
[Presented by the Director of the Survey.]
There is much in this work that is of interest to the geographer as well as
the geologist. The numerous magnificent illustrations and maps especially
render it of great geographical value.
[Panama]. — Le Canal de Panama en 1886. Rapport pr^sentd par M. Jules Ch.
Rous, D^Mgu^ et Membre de la Chambre de Commerce, Marseille. 1886 : 4to.,
pp. 131. [Presented by M. Roux.]
M. lioux, who is President of the Marseilles Geographical Society, was sent
out by the Chamber of Commerce of Marseilles in the early part of last year to
report on the works in connection with the Panama Canal. He had every
facility for obtaining information on the actxial state of the works, and his
report is therefore of considerable practical value. It contains forty-five large-
sized photographic illustrations of places and persons, which render it of some
geographical value.
SiniBOn, Alfred. — Travels in the Wilds of Ecuador and the exploration of the
Putumayo River. London, Sampson Low & Co., 1886 : 8vo., pp. v. and 270.
Price 8». Od. [Presented by the Publisher.]
Mr. Simson, while staying at Guayaquil, was attracted by the mystery
surrounding the Eastern (Oriental) Province of Ecuador. This was the scene
of Gonzalo's (the youngest and most brilliant of the Pizarros) romantic expedi-
tion to the river Napo, during which he was deserted by his second in com-
mand, Orellana, who descended the Amazons, returned to Europe, and claimed
the whole merit and reward of the discovery for himself. This region had
remained practically unvisited, except by Jesuit missionaries, who published
nothing concerning it to the world, from that time (1541) until now. It was
a task, therefore, worthy of Mr. Simson*s energetic and adventurous character
to explore this region, and the present work is the creditable result.
The first difficulties were the double line of Andine passes (the Sierra and
the Cordillera), which he successfully surmounted, chiefiy on foot, and reached
the eastern watershed, which is practically, as far as the boundaries in these
regions permit of definition, the Oriental Province. Across this province he
penetrated, still on foot, through dense forests, until he reached the river Napo,
which he descended in canoes, to Iquitos, an important town and port on the
Upper Amazons.
At this point, after five months* arduous labour, he had successfully achieved
his original design. The delays and dangers through which he had already
passed — flooded rivers, savage Indians, attacks of sickness, villages decimated
or deserted in consequence of small-pox, more dreaded than any other scourge —
ought to have satiated the most robust appetite for adventure. But it was not
so with our traveller. He casually met near Iquitos a Brazilian in command
of an expedition to explore the River Pntumayo, or 19a, and accepted his
invitation to join it. He took a very prominent and dangerous post, being
placed in command of the pioneer steamer, which preceded and selected the
channel for the larger one which followed. He successfully ascended the
Putumayo 900 miles. This interesting expedition is described in Chapters
XYII. and XYIIL, and although Mr. Simson is chary of giving dates, this
fact enables us to fix the period of his journey at about ten or eleven years
ago.
The book is full of information of great interest and novelty con-
cerning the scenery, the Jesuit missionaries, the Indians, both civilised and
barbarous, and the natural history of the regions through which Mr. Simson
passed. We do not remember to have met with anything more striking than his
description on psges 131 and 132 of the ravages of vampire bats at Aguano on
S22 X£W GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
\\iii Xajo, Tb€ Diap U quite unworlby of tlie book, and of eo service in
lollowiDg Mr. Sinisoii^H journejfl. In taking It-ave of this delightful traveller,
we camiiot refraiu from expreshingi tbe hope thftt^ though tea years have now
elapsed since bis jouruey, the spiiit umy move bim to explore fioiiie other
unknown pnrt of South America, and giyt; ms an equally useful and inteJejling
account of his adventures,— =[C. MJ
[United States, &c.]^Brad*haw*ii A.B.C. Dictionary to the United States, Canada
atjci Mexico, showing the most important towns and points of interest London,
Triibnt r, 1880 i 8vo,, pp. 304, [Presented by tbe Pablishers.]
^I bis contains much useful information in a handy form. Canada, however,
nceive** very meagre treatment, the space being mainly devoted to ihe eastern
provinct'S. Mexico h treated In much greater detail.
? ARCTIC.
^Greenland j— Oliservations Internationales Pi>laircs, 1882-83. Expedition DanoiFe.
(Jbiscrvations faites & Godthaab sous la direction de Adam Paulsen. Fublides pfir
r I us I i tut Me'teorologiqtie do Dane mark. Tome iL^l"" LiTraisoQ. Copenhagen,
G. E. C. Gad, 1886. [Presented by the luBtituteJ
This volume is mainly occupied with tahles of atmospheric pressure, and ebb
ami flow of the tide. Observai ions were made for the longitude of God tbaab,
the mean result being Sh. 26m, &4s. W. of Greenwich.
AUSTllALASIA.
Xustralia, Western,— I^q>ort by the Director of Public Worka on the Public
Works* of tiic Colony, fur the year 1885. Perth, K. Pether, Government Printer,
1886: folio, pp. 24.
The Apf)endix consists of Mr. H. S. Carey's Report on the Telegraph Line
from Northampton to Roebourne, and the Extension frtim Roobourne to Cossack,
which contains some useful information on the country etnbraoed, illustrated by
a map.
British Kew Guinea.— Issued by Messrs. Bums, Pbilp & Co* Sydney, printed
by John Woods & Co,, 1886; 4to.^ pp. 36, illustrations. Price 6d. [Presented
by Theodore F. Be van, Esq.]
OCEANIA.
Eager, Carl. Die Marahall-Inseln, in Erd- nnd Volkeikunde, Handel und Messeo.
Mit einem Anliang; Die Gilbert- Inseln. Leipzig, Lingke : 8ro., pp, iv. and
157. Price 2s. Sd, (Dulau,)
This is a summary of what is known concerning the Marshall Islands,
apropos of recent German enterprises in the Western Pacific. There is a shtrt
mtroduction on Micronesia and an Appendix on the Gilbert Islands.
GENERAL.
Albert de Monaco, [Prince]. — ^Sur le Guir*Stream, Eechercbes pour tf taUir ses
liapports avec la Ct^te de France. Campiagne de Tliironddh^ 1886. Paris,
Gautbier-Vilhifs, 188t> : large 8vo,, pp. 41, maps.
Bastian, Adolf.^ — 2ur Lebre von den Geogmpluschen Provinzen. Berlin, Mittler
uiai ISohn, 188G t 8vo,, pp. xxv. and 118. Price 2s. ^d. (Dulau,)
Dr. Bastian discusses in this brochure the subject of tbe division of the
earth's surface into geographical provinces, involvii^g tbe question of the
influence of geographical surroundings on mankind. He brings much leamiiip
tM bear on the discussion, and introduces a perpkxing multitude of refereEces and
fjuotations*
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUCATIOXS. 323
Campbell, [Sir] George [M.P.]— The British Empire. ;Cas8tll& Company [1887]:
bvo., pp. viii. and 184. Price 3». [Presented by the Publishers.]
In this little volume, Sir George Campbell deals with the various classes of
dependencies of the British Government, — India, Crown Colonies, Territorial Com-
panies, Protectorates, mainly from the political or Imperial point of view. Such
questions as federation, emigration, and our relations to other colonising nations,
are discussed ; Africa receives a chapter to itself.
[Colonial Exhibition.] — Reports on the Colonial Section of the Exhibition. Issued
under the supervision of the Council of the Society of Arts, and edited by H.
Trueman Wood, m.a.. Secretary. London, Clowes, 1887 : 8va, pp. v. and 505.
Price 10«. 6(i. [Presented by direction of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales.]
This volume contains a series of reports, twenty-three in all, on the leading
products shown at the recent Colonial and Indian Exhibition. Those of most
geographical interest seem to us to be Mining Industries, by Dr. Le Neve Foster ;
Grain, by Mr. Proctor Baker ; Tea, by Mr. A. G. Stanton ; Coffee, by Mr. H.
Pasteur ; Wines, &c., by Mr. R. Bannister ; Tobacco, by Dr. G. Watt and Mr.
J. McCarthy ; Wools, by F. H. Bowman ; Silk, by Mr. J. Wardle ; Timber, by
Messrs. F. Leslettand Allen Ransome.
Pitz-Patrick.— An Autunm Cruise in the ^gean: or Notes of a Voyage in a
Sailing Yacht. London, Sampson Low & Co., 1886 : 8vo., pp. x. and 316.
Price 10». 6d, [Presented by the Publisher.]
The cruise here recorded was made in the autumn of 1885. Besides
Athens and other places in Greece, about which and its antiquities we are told
much, several of the ^gean Islands were visited, and a good many places
on and near the coast of Asia Minor. Although the ground gone over is not
new, Mr. Fitz-Patrick, who tells his story attractively, has many notes on the
present condition of things, as well as on the past, which render his book
instructive. It will be useful to those who think of following his example.
There is a good map of the ^gean legion.
Jahrbacher der K. K. Central-Anstalt (lir Meteorologie und Erdmagnetismus.
Officielle Publication. Jahrgang 1885. Neue Folge, XXII. Band. Wien,
Wilhelm Braumiiller, 1886 : 4to.
Journal of the College of Science, Imperial University, Japan. Vol. I^ part I.
Published by the University, TokyO, 1886 : large 8vo., pp. 112, plates. [Pre-
sentcd by the Imperial University', TOkyO, Japan.]
Palestine Pilgrinui' Text Society. — Of the Holy Places visited by Antoninus
Martyr (Circ. 530 a.d.). Translated by Aubrey Stewart, m.a., and Annotated
by Col. Sir C. W. Wilson, b.k. London, 1885 : 8vo., pp. viii. and 44, maps.
The Pilgrimage of the Holy Paula. By St. Jerome. Translated by Aubrey
Stewart, m.a., and Annotated by Col. Sir C. W. Wilson, k.c.m.o., &c. London,
1885 : 8vo., pp. viii. and 16, map.
Of the Buildings of Justinian. By Procopius (circ. 560 A.D.). Translated by
Aubrey Stewart, mjl., and Annotated by Col. Sir C. W. Wilson, B.E., &c, and Prof.
Hayter Lewis, F.8.A. London, 1886 : 8va, pp. viii. and 178, maps, plana, plates.
Description of Syria, including Palestine. By Mukaddasi (circ. 985 A.D.).
Translated from the Arabic and Annotated by Guy le Strange. London, 1886 :
8vo., pp. xvi. and 64, map and plans.
Itinerary from Bordeaux to Jerusalem. * The Bordeaux Pilgrim ' (333 A.D.).
Translated by Aubrey Stewart, Esq., M.A., and Annotated by Col. Sir C. W.
Wilson, K.C.B., &c. London, 1887 : 8vo., pp. xii. and 116, plans.
Stephen, Leslie.— Dictionary of National Biography. VoLX. Chamber — ClarksoD.
London, Smith, Elder & Co., 1887 : 8vo., pp. vL and 456. Price 12«. 6d.
324
NEW GEOGHAPHICAL PaBLICATIONS.
[TasmanJ Alwl Jaoszoon TaBrDBu. Door Mr. Cb. M, Doz}% In Bijdragen
lot de TaaU Land- en Yolkerkunde vati Kederlaiidfiche-Iudiu, 5'^* Volgreeks,
2,^ Dee\, 2^ Allevering. 's GraveDliAge, Nijlioff, 1887.
This paper is a welcome addition to the little that we know of the
person tl life of Tasmnn, as \vg\1 as to the sources of information we posBesB
concerning his work as an explorer,
[The * ChaHeager * VoyageO— I*^^port on the Scientific Reaults of the Voyage
of H,M,S. 'Cballeuger* during the years 1873-76, under the command of CaptaiQ
George S. Nare», r.n., f.k.i^, and the late Captain Fraak Tonrle Thomson, B,&%
Prepared under the auperiiitendcnce of the late Sir 0. Wyville TboinM)n, kt-,
F,B»8., &c., and now of John Murray, one of the Naturalists of the Expedition,
Zoology— Vol XVIL London, Eyre & Spottiawoode, 188G : 4to., pp. Yiii., 178,
L, 362, viii. and 47, chart and plates. Price 40a. [Presented by the Lords
ConimiiJaiouera of Her Majesty's Treasury.]
[ -2 ^'^^^o. Botany— YoL IL London, Longmans & Co., &c., 1886: 4to.,
pp. iii, and 17B, plates. Price 15*. [Presented by ditto.]
Boport on the Scientiic Results of the Voyage of E.M.S. Challenger during
the years 1873-76, under the command of Captain George S. Narea> e,n., f.r,8.,
and the late Captain Frank Tourle Thomson, r.n. Prepared nnder the superin-
tendence of the late Sir C, Wyville Thomson, kxt*, f.b.s,^ 5rc,, and now of John
Murray, one of the naturalists of the Expedition, Zoology — VoU XVII I. (in
Two Parts, with a Volume of Plates) and XIX, Loudon, Eyre & Si>ottis-
woode, 1887 : 4to, Price.(Vol XVIll.) bL lOs., (Vol. XIX.) 25«. [Presented
by the Lords Commissioners of Her Majesty^s Treasury.]
[The East] — Nouveaux Melanges Orientaux. Memoires, Textes et Traductions
puliliiSs par lea Professeura de llicole Sp*k!iab des Langnes Orientales Vivantes k
rOccasion du Scptieme Congres InternatioDal des Orientidistes retmi k Vienna
(Sept. 1886). Pari«, Imprimerie Nationale, 1886 ; imp. 8vo., pp, liv, and 698.
[Presented by the French Minister of Public Instruction.]
ITie section of most geographical interest in this volume is that which gives
a translation of the travels of Basileua Batatze, of Constantinople, in Asia and
Europe, in the beginning of the 18 Lh century. In Enjj;land he was much struck
with the philhellt'iiism of the English, and especially of Oxford. " What struck
me most in England was the ct^lebrattHi University of Oxford, where they teach
all the sciences. I ofTert:^ to that establishment the map of Central Asia which
1 had had engraved ; they thanked me very warmly for this gift."
ThomaSi A.^Etymologischea Wurterbuch Geographischer Namen. Namentlich
soicher aus dem Bereiche der Schulgeographie, Breslan, F, Hirt, 1886 : 8va,
pp. iv. and 192, {Dulmi,)
As its name implies, this little book contains a selection of geographical
terms and names of places with their etymologies. So far as it goes, it seems
on the whole satisfactory, though necessarily, some of the etymologies are con-
jectural, if not fanciful. Why should London and Cambridge be given, bat
neither Oxford, Liverpool, nor Edinburgh? The book is to a large extent
bastid on Egli's works.
I
The following works have also been added to the Library :—
Annual Report of the Board of Regents of the Smithsonian Inst*
the Operations, Expenditures, and Condition of the Institution I
Part 11. Washington, Government Printing office, 1885 : 8^
plates. [Presented by the Smithsonian Institution,]
NEW MAPS. 325
Se Sance, Charles E.— The Water Supply of England and Wales; its Geology,
Undei^round Circulation, Surface Distribution, and Statistics. London, £.
Stanford, 1882 : 8vo., pp. x. and 623, maps. Price 25a.
McCarthy, John. — Commercial and Technical Report on West Indian and British
Honduras Products, at the Colonial and Indian Exhibition, 1886. Compiled
\mder the direction of Sir Augustus Adderley, K.c.M.a., Executive Commissioner.
[1886] : 8vo., pp. 128. [Presented by Sir Augustus Adderley.]
Men of the Time : A Dictionary of Contemporaries, containing Biographical
Notices of Eminent Characters of both sexes. London, Routledge, 1887 : 8yo.,
pp. viii. and 1121. Price IBs,
A good deal has been done to bring this useful reference book into con-
formity with the time. There is, however, a great want of proportion. Many
obscure and undistinguished journalists, about whom no one cares to know
anything, are allowed as much space to write about themselves, as the editor
devotes to some men of the highest rank of eminence. In the editor's estima-
tion, the following geographers and travellers are evidently not '* men of the
time " : — Emin Pasha, Dr. Junker, Schweinfurth, De Brazza, Bates, the
Hydrographer to the Admiralty, Joseph Thomson. And yet we find Schwatka.
In the article on Mr. Thiselton Dyer, *' the late " Sir J. D. Hooker is referred to.
Science. An Illustrated Journal, published weekly. Vols. I.-VIII. February-
June, 1883— July-December, 1886. Cambridge, Mass., and New York, the
Science Company, 1883-1886 : 4to.
Smith, W. Anderson. — Benderloch; or, Notes from the West Highlands.
Second Edition. With Map and Index. Paisley, Alexander Gardner, 1883 :
sm. 8vo., pp. 366 and 5. Price 6». [Presented by the Publisher.]
Loch Creran: Notes from the West Highlands. Paisley and London
A. Gardner, 1887 : sm. 8vo., pp. 322. Price 6«. [Presented by the Publisher.]
The English Catalogue of Books published from January 1835 to January 1863,
comprising the contents of the " London " and the *' British *' Catalogues, and the
principal works published in the United States of America and Continental
Europe, with the Dates of Publication, in addition to the Size, Price, Edition, and
Publisher's Name. Compiled by Sampson Low. 1864: pp. vi. and 910. —
Ditto. Vol. U. January 1863 to January 1872. Compiled by ditto. 1873 :
pp. 452.— -Ditto. Vol. IlL January 1872 to December 1880. Compiled by ditto.
1882 : pp. 562.— Ditto for 1884 .... with the addition of an Index to Subjects.
1885: pp. 130.— Ditto for 1885, ditto. 1886: pp. 120.— Index to the British
Catalogue of Books published during the years 1837 to 1857 inclusive. Compiled
by Sampson Low. 1858 : pp. 292 and xxx. — Index to the English Catalogue of
Books. Compiled by ditto. Vol. II. 1866 to January 1876. 1876 : pp. 408.—
Ditto. Vol. III. January 1874 to December 1880. 1884 : pp. 175. London,
Sampson Low & Co. : 8vo.
NEW MAPS.
(By J. CoLBS, Map Chtraiar, b.o.s.')
EUBOPE,
Bruges* — Plan de ^ par Joseph Kips, f.b.g.s. Scale 1 : 7500 or 9*7 inches to
a geographical mile. London : Joseph Kippe. Price lOd.
Bmzelles* — Plan de (Bmssds), les Environs, et Plan de Waterloo.* Par
Joseph Kips. London. Price lOd,
32G
NEW MAPS.
Colberg'^ — KArte der Umgegend von , nach den von OfSzieren des 7* Pommer-
schvn lufanterie-Eegimenta Ko. 54 gelLererfcen Nachtragen zu den Origioiil-
Aufnabmen dcB Gcneralfltabes bearbeitel in der KdoigL Landes-Au&iftkme. Scale
1 : 25,000 or 2 '9 inches to a geographical mile* Berlin : Simon Schropp (J. H.
Neumann), 1887. Price 1*. Bd. (Dulau,)
Coilin.^ — Specialkarte des UegieningB-BeziTks . Scale 1:300,000 or 4*1
geographical miles to an inch, Entworfen von Nowack, KgL Plankammer-
Insjiektor des Sut. Bureaus, Berlin, Simon Schropp (J. H. Keumann), 1887.
Price 2«. (Duiau.y
Batltscli'Lotluillgea* — Geologiscbe Uebersiclitskarte des westlichen ,
Herausige^eben von der CommlBi^ion fiir die geolog. Landesuol^rsuchung von
Elsasft-Lothringen. Scale 1:80,000 cr 1*1 geographical miles to an inch*
Chromolith. FcA, Mit Text. Berlin^ Simon Schropp (J. H, NeumaEn). Price 5«,
(Dulau.)
^ Uebersichtfikarte der Eisenerzrelder des westUchen . Htarans-
g^eben Ton der Commission (lir die geolog. Landesunterfiuehung von Elaasa^
Lothringen. Scale 1 : 80,000 or 1 "1 geographical miles to an in ck Berlin, Simon
Schropp (J. H. Neumann). Price Is, {DulatiJ)
BeiLtficIien'BeiclieB,— ^rte des ■, Scale 1 : 100,000 or 1 '3 geograpliical mi Its
to an inch. Sheets No. 534, Kenitiath, Herausgegeben vom topogr. Bureau dts
K. Bayer, Genets I S tabes, 1886. No, 601, Saarhnrg U Deutsch^Lothr. Herau*-
gpgeben von der kartogr. Abtheilung der Konigi Preuss. Landes-Aufnahme,
1887, Price If. Bd. each. {Dtdau,}
Dresden^— Neuester Plan von Ad, Liubers, Scale 1: 15,000 or 4'8 inches to a
g<?ographical mile, Mit SkraftsenTerzcichniss. Leipzig, 0. Dietrich, Price 1<.
(Dttiau,)
Erfurt.— Specialkarte des RegierungB-Be^irks *, Scale 1 ; 300,000 or 4*1
geographical miles to an inch. Entworfen von Nowack^ KgL Plankammer-
Jnnpektor des Stat, Bureaus. Berlin, Simon Schropp (J, H. Neumann), 1887,
l*rice 2$, (Duhu.)
Europa, — Eiaenbahn und DampfschiOrouten Earte von J* Fmnz, Sc&lo
1 ^ 3,000,000 or 41* 6 geographical miles to an inch. 6 sheets. Glogau, Flem-
ming. Price IZs. (Dulau.)
Franldiirt a/0.— Specialkarte des KegiemngBr-Bezirks . Scale 1 : 300^000 or
4*1 geographical miles to an inch. Berlin, Simon Schropp ( J. H. Neumann),
1887, Price 3s. (Dulau,)
Gand.^ — Plan de • (Ghent), par Joseph Kips, f.r,g.s. Scale 1 : 10,000 or
7 "3 inches to a geographical mile. London, Josejih Kipps, Price lOd,
Gran SaiSO d*Italia*^^arta Topografiea del — — •, pubblicata a cura della Sezione
di Roma del Club Alpino Italians ed esc|;uita dal ^ocio G, E. Fritzsche. In bue
alia nuova Carta ddlo Stato Maggiore Italiano. Scale 1:80,000 or I'l geo-
graphical miles to an inch. Tntituto Cartografico Italiano e Stab. Lit. L. Bolla,
Koma, 1887, Price 4i- (Dulau.)
I'hia map contains the whole group between the Yoinano and Pescara
valleys. Its extreme limits are the Pii2o di Sevo and the city of Teramo to
the north, and the railway station of Bussi to the soulh, thus including the
** Mandamenti^* of Amatrice, Monlerealo, Aquila, Popoli, Sassa, Paganica,
Barisciano, S, Demetrio nei Yestini, Capestrano^ Ternmo Montorio, and
Tossiccta, The single sheet of this map includes an area, porth^ns of which
are givtn on four sheets of the 1 ; 100,000 map of the Italian General Staff,
The elevations are shown by contour lines 100 metres apart, and the hill work
*
XEW MAPS. S27
IS ooloareJ in five shades of brown, the forests and meadows are greeo, and the
lailways, roads, and paths are all plainly indicated. An inset map of the Gran
Sasso d'ltalia is giyen on the scale of 1 : 25,000, with oontoara for erery twenty-
five metres of difference of altitude. The map is well drawn, the ooloors are
jndidoosly chosen, and the lettering clear.
■enebnrg.— Specialkarte des Regiemngs-Bezirks w Scale 1 : 300,000 or 4*1
geographical miles to an inch. Entworfen Yoa Xowack, ElgL Plankammer-
In^iektor des Stat Boreans. Berlin, Simon Schropp (J. H. Kemnann), 1887.
Price 2m. iDmlau.)
Potldam.— Spedalkarte des Regienings-Beairks . Scale 1 : 300,000 or 4*1
geographical miles to an inch. Entworfen Ton Xowack, KgL Plankammer-
Inspd^tor des Stat Boreans. Berlin, Simon Schropp (J. H. Nenmann), 1887.
Price 3t. (Dulau.)
KUBlland. — ^Earte der Eisenbahnen der enropaischen mit Theilen der angren-
zenden Lander nnd Klein-Asiens. Scale 1 : 6,000,000 or 82 '5 geographical miles
to an inch. Wien, Artaria & Co. Price Is. 6ct {Dylau}.
Siebengebirges. — Uebersichtskarte des , angefertigt nnter Benntzung des
amtlichen Materials vom Oberbergamts-Markscheider Adolf Schneider in Bonn.
Scale 1: 12,500 or 5*8 inches to a geographical mile. Berlin, Simon Schropp
(J. H. Neomann), 1887. Price 2s. [Ihdau.)
Srerige, Vorge och Danmark— General Karta ofrer samt angransande delar
af dstersjo lander jemte jemvags kommunikationer. 3<l* till^ta och forbattrade
Upplagan. Sammandragen och forfattad i sex Blad. Scale 1: 1,000,000 or
13*6 geographical miles to an inch. August Hahr, Stockholm, 1887. Pa FOrlag
af F. and G. Beijer. Price 1/. U (Dulau,)
This is a new edition of Hahr's well-known map of Sweden, Norway, and
Denmark, with corrections and additions which bring it up to date.
ORDNANCE SUBYET MAPS.
PobdoUloDt laoed diizii« tlw booIIi of Maidi 188T.
l-i2loh— Oencrml lf^» :-^
Emolaxv A3n> Walks : N«w Series. Sheets 85, 95.' 97, S23, U. ettoh.
SooTUkXD: SbeeU 128, 129 (oatiine). U. 9d. each.
6-inoh— CooDty ]Ups>-
Emqlxvd avd Walks: Bedfordshire: si N.E., &&. od one sheet; u. Breoknookshire :
18 &W.. 33 N.W^ S.W., S.E^ 34 N.E.; Is. ctth. Oambridtfeahixe : s N.K, S.W.,
4 N.W., 6 N.W., S.W.. S.K. 7 N.W.. 14 &E., 15 aw., 20 N.K. : Is. tSL Cardlsanshire : lo .
&W.. S.&, 12 &W., 15 N.KL, S.W.. &Ew. 16 N.W., 17 &W.. 43 N.W.; Is. etch. Oarmarthen-
ahire: lO N.W., &W.; is. CMh. Gheahire: large index mra^ 2 mikt to 1 inch; 2«. ed.
Derbyshire: 45 N.W., S.W., 49 N.IC. 53 N.E.; is. each. Devonahire: 120 S.E.; i<.
DorMtahire: 12 N.W.. N.E., &W.. 13 N.W., u S.W. ; is. etch, aionoesterahire : n
N.W^ S.W. ; is. taxh. Herefordshire : 31 S.W.. 33 &£., Uereford ; 37 HJi, 39 N.W.. 4i SwK. ;
is. each. Himtixiflrdonahire : 6 &E., 7 &W.; is. each. Uncolnahire : 78 N.W., &W.,
S.E., 86 N.W., S.E.; is. each. Kerionethahire : S9 aK.; is. Konxnouthahire :
24. 2s. 6d. Kontffomeryahire: 3 &£.; is. Nosfolk: 39 &W., 51 &£.; is. each.
Somersetshire : 4i N.WT. Wells; 86 &£.. 87 M.W., aK; is. each. StafEbrdshire : 70
aw.;is.e>ch. Warwickshire: 14 &£., isaE, 17 aw.; ls.each. Worcestershire:
3aW.,6ai£.; is. each.
25-inoh— P^trteh Maps .•—
Ekolaxi) avd Walks: Bredknockshize : XXV. 3. 4. 8. 16. XXTT. 3. 7. 8, 12, 15. XXXIX. 11.
15. XLVl. 1. 3s. each. Cambridgeshire: XLI. 1. 2. 3. 4, 7. 8, 9. 3s. each ; XU. 10. 4s.; XU.
11, 13. 15. 16. LVIU. 10. 3S. each. Oarmarthenihire : XXVIL 3. 4, 7. 8. 16. XXXIV. 10.
13. 14. XXXV. 1, 2. 3. 5. 6. 7. 10. 13. 15, XLI. 3, 4. XLII. 1, 6. 7. 3s. fach.. DeTonanire : XXLX.
1.5. 6. 9. 10. 11. 13. 14. 16. XXX. 11. 12. 15. XU. 10. LII. 2. 5. 6. 12, CVII. 11. CVIIl. 3. 7. 8,
CXIV. 9. as. each; CXIV. 10. 4s.; CXIV. 13, 14, 3s. each ; CXX V. 11. 4s.; CXXV. 12, 16. CXXXI.
9, 3s. each. Glouoestershire : Area Books: BledlnRton, Clapton, ClUfbrd Chambers. Lower
Swell, Maagersbary. Oddlngum, Preston npon SUmr. Weston upon Avon (part oQ, is. each.
Herefordshire: X. 11. XVIL 11. 16. XX. 16. XXI. 15, XXIV. s, 8, XXVIL 2. 6. 8. 11, 12. 14.
15, XXVm. 1. 2, 9. 13. XXXIV. 3. 4. 7. 8. 3s. each.; XXXV. 1, 4s.; XXXV. 5. 3s. Lin-
colnshire: V. 11. 4s.; VI. 10. 13, 14, XL 2, 4. 5. 6. 7, 15. XVUL 2. 3s. each: XVIll.
5. 5s.; XVliL 6. 8. 11, 3s. each; XVIIi. 12, 4s.; XVIIL IS. Ss.; XVIIL 15. a«.; XXVIL
11. 4s.; XXVIL 12, 15. IC, XXXVL 4, 7. 8, 9. 11, 12, 3s. each; XXXVL 13, 4s.; XXXVl.
14, 15, 16. XLV. 9. 13. 14, I4III. 1. 2. 6. 9. 12. CLIIL 2. 3s. each. Montgomeryshire:
IV. 7. 13, 16, V. 5, 10, IX. 7, 9, 10, 13, 16, XIU. 1, 3, 4, 6^ 7, 8, 15, XVL 3. XXIIi. 4,XXX11L 5. 6, 7,
828
NEW MAPS.
31. each. Norfolk : L lO, n. 12» 3j. etch ? I. H. U, <*. «ch ; L IB, IIL 6 ind 10 on one ihoct,
3*.; Dl. 0. I'i, IV. &, 10, H, 13, V. 11 and 12 on one kbwt, VJ. 2, VIL 4, 9. ». 10. U. 13, 13* H, la,
Vlir. 4, a, X- 10. XL 13, 3i. e«ch; XXXin. I. 2. 6. ii. cftch ; LXllL 15. 2*. ed. Are* Books:
Acl«, Belghtoci, Freethorpe, Ffnclum. Great Wltcliioghftni. Little Witch in rIisih. Moullon, Soutli-|
wood. 14. etKh. Northamptonahire : UI. b, h. a^. <^di ; HL lo, 4f. each ; IIL n, 13, h, 16« ^
!V. 9, 10, 13, U, 3J, eacli; IX. 1, 4*.; IX. 2, «, XIV. 1. XX\1X. 3, XLIX. 13, 3j. ciicrb. Area
Hook.* : Lower Bodiogton, Wootton, 1*. each. Shropsbire : Are* Bw^k : dun, 3*. Somerset-
slllre: LXIL 2, 3#. etch; LXn. 3, ft, 41. Mch; LXn. h. 3i.; LXIL 14. *«.j LXIL IS. 3*. i
LXIIl. &, 10, «. Mch ; LXJlf. 13. 3*.; LXIIL 16. U.i LXIII. 16. LXXIV, 1. 2.4,9.6. 3*. *'»cb ;
LXXIV, 10, 4M,i LXXIV. ifi. 3*. Staffordahir© : LXIL 3, 4. 4«. each; LXIL 8. &f,{ LXIL
16, LXIIL 7, U. 6d. e«ch; IJtVH, 2, ;!f.; LXVIL 3, &*. j LXViL t, 6f. 6<i. Suffolk: XLL 4,
if. WarwlokBhire : XXXV, i. 2.«, lo, la. 14, XXXix. 3, ii. ii. XL. i. 2. in, ii. la. 13. js, i6,
XLVL 16, XLVII. 13, LIV. S. 12, 3*. ttick Ait* fJook*: Welfij-a (part of), Wt-rton upon Avoa
([Mul of), ij. each. Wiltelilre : XXV. i, ^ ^ ; XXX 11. lo, XX.\V. 1, *i. a. ^. fi, r. ». 9. lo,
12. 13. 14, XXXVL «, XLU. 10, XLiy, 18. XLV. L 3, 4. 6, e. 7. «, », 10, la, 13. H. 16. le, XLVL
1. 2« IL XLVIL 1, 5, 6. 10, LIU. 3, 3, 3i. eacb; MIL a, 4c. ; LUL 9. 3«. Woroeaterablre :
XL. 3, 6, 3t. eAch.
Town Plana— lo-fret K»le .■ —
Ekclakd xyv Wales : Aberyitwlth, VI. 9, IT. 2*. eack erewktm*» LXXXIX. 13, 31. St. each.
Weal Brutnwlch. LXVllL 14, »* Ifi; a#. each.
(Stanford. Agent.)
^ AFRICA.
Ostafrika- — Politisclie UbeTsicbt von — ^ oach den neuestea Vertragen und
BesitxergToifangen. Scale 1: 8,000,000 or 109*5 geographical miles to an inch.
Aus K. Kie|Tert'ii Folitiacher Wandkartc von Afrika in 6 BL Berlin, Dietrich
Beimer, 1887. (Dulan.)
Although tbe piiblic have from time to time been informed, through the
press, of the annexation of extensive territoricfi in the fzeneral scramble that has i
taken place amonj European natiuna for African possessions, yet the proceaa of 1
annexation has been si> gradual that it ia not until the publication of a map
like that under consideTation, that we are able to take io the full meaning and
extent of the chancea which have taken place in the political geography of
Africa in the laat decade, or even within a much briefer period. This map
allows that the once extensire territory where the authority of the Sultan of
Zflnzibar was acknowledged, is now reduced t^ a mere strip of land extending
along the coast for a distance of 950 miles, that Germany has secured a vast
extent of country, and in addition to this, has also taken possession of the mouth
of the Tana river, althou}>h the En^jlish poesessbns, which are laid down as
including the ^eatcr portion of Masailand and the Kilhnandjaro district, are im-
mediately in the roar\>f this position, and are, in fact, bonndwi on the north by
the very river the mouth of which, accordins; to this map is claimed as a
German port. Madagascar and all the otitlyinp; islands are coloured as French
potsessions, the Portuguese tirritory is laid down as extending across the Conti-
nent, and the recent acquisitiona of the Italian Government on the coast of the
Red Sea, are marked as extending from Massowah to a point nearljr opposite the
island of Perim. It would be impc^sible in such a notice as this to call atten-
tion to all the |>oints of interest, for these we must refer the reader to the map
itself, a comparison of which wiiii Boulton'a map of Africa^ published in 1800»
will show what w^onderful progress* has l>een made during the present century
in our knowledge of the interior of Africa, and how all the eastern portion of
Equatorial Africa, which appiars as a blank in Bonl ton's map, Is now divided
into states, and [xi^sessionsof Europea^n countries, with an amount of detail and
precision closely resembling that which was formerly only to be found in maps
of Europe,
South Africa.—^^nginal Map of , containing all South African Colonies and
Native 'IVrritoriea, compiled from all available information, combined with the
r^ults of his own explorations, by the Bev, A, Meren&ky, formerly Superin-
tendent of the Beriin Missions in TranavaaL Scale 1 : 2,500,000 or 34*4:
geographical miles to an inch, 4 Blatt. Second and revised edition, 1887.
Berhn, Simon Scbropp (J. H. Neumann), Price 12s. {Dulau,)
Tanifamka-See und dem Luftlaba^ — Dr, Richard Bohm's und Paul Richard's
Rontenaufnahmcn zwischen dem — — (Quellgebiet des Congo) 1883-1884*
Construirt und gezeichnet von RichRrd Kiepert, Scale 1: 750,000 or 10*3
NEW MAPS. 829
geographical miles to an inch. ' Mittheilungen der Afrikanischen Gesellschaft
in Deutschland; Bd. v. Taf. 2.
Profil langs Dr. B. Bohm*8 und P. Reichard*8 Route von Mpala am Tanganika-
See nach Kagoma in Usanga. Profil der Routen zwischen Mkande am UpSmba-
See nnd der Landschaft Katanga. Langenmassstab 1: 750,000 or 10*3 geo-
graphical miles to an inch. Yerhaltniss des Lan<ren- znm Hohenmassstabe = 1 : 30.
* Mittheilungen der Afrikanischen Gesellschaft in Deutschland,* Bd. v. Taf. 3.
(Dtdau,)
CHARTS.
Admiralty. — Cliarts and Plans published by the Hydrographic Department,
Admiralty, in January and February 1887.
No. Inches.
959 m = 0*4 West Indies, Honduras: — ^Approaches to Belize.
Price 2s.
969 l^ ~ ^'^\ South America, east coast :—Pemambuoo roads, with
\m = 9*6/ Pemambuco harbour. Price 1«. 6rf.
554 m = 0-13 South America :— Magellan strait. Price 2«. 6<f.
958 m = 1*1 China, south coast :—Hie-che-chin bay. Price Is. 6c?.
1126 Ports and anchorages in Corsica island: — New plan of Gulf of Porto
Vecchio.
1497 Reunion island :— Plan added, Port Pointe des Galets.
1382 Tahiti and Moorea : — New plan of Papetoai and Cook bays.
(J. D. Potter, Agent,)
CHARTS CANCELLED.
No. Cancelled by No.
554 Magellan strait New chart, Magellan strait .. ,. 554
1963 Plan on this sheet, Chino bay .. New plan, Hie-chi-chin bay .. ,. 958
740 Plans of this sheet, Vingorla
roads, Mai wan bay.
CHARTS THAT HAVE RECEIVED IMPORTANT CORRECTIONS.
No. 1895. England, south coast : Dungeness to the Thames. 494. West Indies : —
Anchorages in Martinique. 40. India, west coast: — E^arachi harbour. 740.
India, west coast: — A'chera river to cape Ramas. 1986. China, east coast: —
Hai-tan strait. 1761. China, east coast: — Port Mathcson to Ragged point.
(J, D. Potter, Agent,)
French Charts.— No. 4119. C6te Nord de France. Rade de Cherbourg. 1886.-—
4126. Corse. Golfe de Porto-Vecchio. 1886.— 4127. Golfe du Tonkin. Lagunes
entre Thuan-An et le Cap Choumay. 1886.— 4142. Terre Neuve. C6te Nord-
£st. Grand et Petit Bras de la Source situ^s k la Partie Sud de la Baie Aux
Lifevres.-; 1886.— 4137. C6tes du Pdrou. Baie de Salinas. 1886.— 4150. Mer
des Indes. Mouillages k la C6te Guest de Madagascar. Morondava, Croquis du
Mouillage. lies Barren et Atterrages de Maintirano. Bosy, Croquis de I'Entr^e
du Bras de mer. 1886. — 1149. Mer des Indes. Mouillages k la C6te Est de
Madagascar. Vatomandry. Croquis du mouillage de Mahanoro. 1886. Service
hydrographique de la Marine, Paris. {Dulau,)
Korwegian Charts. — Specialkart over den Norsko Kyst fra Temingen til Beian
og Rodberg. 1:50,000. Kartet rettet til 1887.— Specialkart over den Norske
Kyst fra Beian til Lovo, 1 : 50,000. — Chart of the Coast of Norway from Stavfjord
to Trondhjems Fjorden (no title). Udgivet af den Geografiske Opmaaling,
Kristiania. (^Duiau,)
S30
XEW MAPS.
TTmted States Charts. — No* 995. Great Circle Sailioj; Chart of tlie
Atlantic Ocean. Trice 2*. It/.— No. 1026. Port Eleaa (Elena Bay)» West
of Costa Rica, Price U. 3<i.— No. 1028. Murcielajio Bay, Weat Coast of CobU
• Rica. Price 1«. 3/i.— No. 1029. Potrero Grande Bay, West Coast of Costa Rica.
Price 1*. 3<i.— No. 1033. Bdleoa Bay (Gulf of Nicoya), West Coast of Costa
Bica. Price 1*. 3(f.— No. 1035. U vita Bay, West Coast ofCuaUHica* Pri<^ L<.3il.
^Pilot Chart of the North Atlantic Ocean, Fehruary, Mfurch, and April 1887.
Puhlibhed at the Hydrographic Office, Navy Department, Washington, DX.
ATLASES.
Berghans' FhyaikaliiCher Atlas (hegrtindet 183G von Heinrich Berghaua).
75 Karten in Bieben Ableilungen, enthaltend mtbrerc hnndert DarBtellungen
iiljer Geologic, Hydrographie, Melearoloilie, Enimagnetiannifi, Pflanzenverbrei tuner,
Tierverbreitung und V^lkerkunde. Vollstiindig neu hearbeitet und n titer Mtt-
wirknng Ton Dr, Oscar Dnide, Dr. Georpf Gerland, Dr. Jnlius Hann, Br. Q.
Hartlaub, Dr. W. Marshall, Dr» Georg Neumayer, und Dr, Karl v. Zittel,
heransgegeben von Professor Dr. Hermann Ber^hans. Neiinte Lieferung. Gotha,
Jiifitus Perthes, 1887. Price 3«. each part. {DidmtS}
This part contains the following maps ; — No, 38> Regenkarte der Erde. Nr. 50,
Florenkarte von Amerika. Nr. 60, Haiistiere und Parasiten.
Horth Atlailti0*^^yDchronons Weather Charts of the and the adjacent
continenlB for every day from Ist August 18b2 to Slst August 1883. Published
under the Autliority of the Meteorolo^rical Council. Part I., Charts from
Ist August to 7th November 1^82. Loudon : Printed for Her Majesty'**
Stationery OfBce, and »sld by J. D. Potter, 31 Poultry, and Edward Stanford,
55 Charing Cross, 1886* Price 17s,
This is the first part of a Meteorological Atlas which, when completed, will
contain the results of a large number of observations extending over a period of
thirteen months, from August Ist, 1882, to August 31fit, 1883. These have
been Cfillecled from a large number of ships, and they supply the means ot*
exhibiting with considerBble precision the principal meteorok)gica! elements for
every day during the period over the whole area dealt with. The present issue
embraces a period commencing August 1st, 1882, antl ending on the 7th Novem-
ber of the same year. The charts, which are drawn on the conical projection,
are reductions from drawings on a much larger scale ; two are given for each day,
ono showing the barometric pressure, the wind, and the weather; the other
showing the temperature of the air and sea, and the weather. In order that the
barometric observations taken in various parts of the world should be truly
gynchronotis, the hour for taking the readings was fixed at Greenwich noon, and
that for taking the tera|^ratures at local noon. The barometric pressure lias
been dt^duced by inter|iolaiion for Greeuwjcli noon of e^cb day, and has l>ecn
entered at a point corre»jx)nding to the ship^s place at that time^ the result
being that the pressures shown are strictly synchronous* The curves of equal
bftrometric pressure are represented by black lines, dmwn for each tenth ol an "
inch, a dratted line for the twentieth of an inch being occasionally in-
troduced* Figures in the central area of depression show the lowest reading
of the barometer, recorded by vesi^ils which passed through it. The force and
direction of the wind is indicated by black arrows of d liferent form, the winds
at high elevations being indicated by red arrows. Tlie weather is shown by
appropriate shnding on both the pressure and temix.Tature charts. The
isotherms are eliown by red lines over the sea for each 5° Fahrenheit, and by
thick red lines over the land, those over the continent of America being for
Greenwich noon, and over Europe for about 8 a.m. local time.
llie protiuction of these weather charts must have entailed a vast amount of
labour, and if continued for a serifs of years they wilt be of great value. It is not,
however, mentioned whether it is the intention of the Meteorological Council to
carry on this work beyond the date mentioned, August Slat, 1883, though it is
to be presumed that such is the case, as the observations for any single year,
though highly interesting and seiving to illustrate meteorological theories^
would in point of fnct he of little ronl sen ice to the mariner.
(W...
'"^•Sr.<
PROCEEDINGS
OF TBI
ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
AND MONTHLY REOOBD OF GEOGRAPHY.
The Annual Address on the Progress of Geography : 1886-7.
By General B. Straohsy, b.e., f3.s., Vice-President.
(Delivered at the Anniyersary Meeting, May 23rd, 1887.)
The unavoidable absence of Lord Aberdare, caused by the effects of the
very unfortunate accident which occurred to him in the course of last
winter, has led to a departure from the ordinary practice of the Society,
under which the President of the past year addresses you at the Anni-
versary Meeting. At the desire of the Council I have undertaken to dis-
charge this duty, feeling alike the obligation that is imposed upon me as
one of your Vice-Presidents to do all in my power to further the interests
of the Society, and to meet its requirements, as well as the great honour
that is done me by selecting me from among so many able and distin-
guished colleagues, to replace so eminent and successful a predecessor as
Lord Aberdare.
It is hardly necessary for me to say that the entire Council has felt
most deeply for Lord Aberdare, while it has most fully appreciated the
extraordinary value of his services to the Society, and has regretted
the untoward cause of his absence on this occasion. The Fellows will
bear in mind that, with the exception of one year, Lord Aberdare has
held the office of President since 1880, and I think you will concur in
the opinion that I express that, with the exception of Sir Roderick
Murchison, there is no one of our Presidents to whom the Society has
been so much indebted. Lord Aberdare's long and varied official and
business experience, and his special connection with the cause of educa-
tion, qualified him in an unusual manner to preside over the action
of the Council, during the last four or five years, in which those aspira-
tions towards the extension and improvement of geographical education
in this country, which were the frequent themes of his addresses, were
given a practical form, and are at length on the point of becording
realised, in connection with the teaching of the two great universities
of Oxford and Cambridge.
No. VI.— June 1887.] 2 b
332 THE ANKUAL .\DDBESS ON THE PR^RESS OP GEOGRAPHY: 1886-7.
' Tliat tho general proBperity of the Society has not fallen off during
tlie period of Lord Abordare'e tenure of office is sufficiently fibown l>y
til© continned increase of the number of subscribing Fellows, which
during the last year has increased somewhat more than during tho
previous year, whilo the total number on the list on the let of May was
3392. The financial position is likewise satisfactory, and it is antici-
pated that the grant of lOOOi. which has been made in aid of the Stanley
Expedition in relief of Emin Bey may be met from the income of the
Society, after meeting all other demands, without trenching on the
invested capital.
It may he of interefit to the Fellows to notice that about 3000^. is
spent on the publications of the Society, so that nearly U. is returned to
each of them in the value of the * Proceedings * and other publications.
The losses of the Society by death during the year have been 70»
besides 5 Honorary Corresponding Members. I may detain you to name
a few of these more prominently distinguished by their eervices to geo-
graphy. More or less detailed biographical notices of several of these have
already appeared in tho pages of onr * Proceedings/ written in most cases
by colleagues who were well qualified for the task by personal acquaintance
with the deceased and the work they had performed. Thus, an account
of the career of that eminent Indian officer Major-General Sir Charles
Macgregor, the author of ' A Narrative of a Journey through Khorassan
and the North-weet Frontier of Afghanistan/ has been contributed by his
fiiend Colonel Iloldich ; a life of Colonel Sir J, Bateman Champain^ tho
zealous engineer officer who so long occupied the post of Director of
tho Indo-European Telegraph, has been written by his professional
colleague Sir Frederic Goldsmid ; a memoir of Mr. A. W. Moore, by his
fellow-traveller in the Caucasus, Mr. Douglas Freshfield ; and one of
Sir T. Douglas Forsyth, the leader of the celebrated Yarkand Mission
of 1870 by his brother, Mr. W. Forsyth, (j.c. Otir pages havo also
recorded the chief incidents in the active life of Admiral Bedford Pirn,
R.N.J one of the most adventurous of our Arctic explorers, who virtually
accomplished the long sought *' North- West Passage " during the search
for Sir John Franklin, by crofising the ice from one of the soarching
vesBels^ the Besolute, which had come from the Atlantic, to the InveMi-
jfaior, which had come from tho Pacific.
Other deceased members, who had achieved deserved reputations
as geographerB, or in departmonts of science allied to geography,
are Colonel G. 0. De Pr6e, ii.E., the late Surveyor- General of India, an
able officer, devoted to his profession, whose health had been seriously
affected by his long service in India ; Dr. R. J* Mann, the eminent
meteorologist, who contributed much to his special department of science
by, his addreseeB as President of the Meteorological Society, and his
admirable paper on the Physical Geography and Climate of Natal,
founded on his oi^ti personal observations in that colony for a long
THE ANNUAL ADDRESS ON THE PROGRESS OF GEOGRAPHY: 1886-7. 833
series of years ; and Mr. James Wyld, the enterprising cartographer and
map publisher.
One of our deceased honorary corresponding members, General C. M.
P. Stone (of the United States Army) will be honourably remembered for
the part he took, during the years of his service in Egypt as Chief of the
General Staff, in promoting the scientific exploration of the little known
provinces in the Soudan, then newly annexed to the Egyptian dominion.
It was he who directed the surveys then carried out by Engineer officers
under his command, especially in Darfur, and also the work of measure-
ment of the Nile level. He took, for many years, a leading part in the
proceedings of the Geographical Society of Cairo, having been vice-
president since its foundation in 1875, and president from 1879 to the
date of his retirement. He died, after his return to America, on the 25th
of January last.
I have already alluded to the prospects of the early realisation of the
endeavours which the Council have been making for some years past to
improve and extend geographical education. It was resolved by the
Council at the end of June last, that the most practical way of attaining
the object in view, with the means at the disposal of the Society, was, in
relation to the higher class education, to make specific proposals to the
Universities of Oxford and Cambridge for providing lecturers on
geography, with the aid of funds to be supplied by the Society ; and in
relation to secondary education, to offer scholarships and prizes for
competition among the persons of both sexes who present themselves for
acceptance as certified teachers at the yearly examination held by the
Education Department, to be awarded to those passing highest in the
geography examination.
The proposals made to the Universities were as follows : —
That the Council should appoint, with the approval of the Vioe-
Chancellor or his delegates) a Lecturer or Reader in geography who should
deliver courses of lectures at both Universities, arranged so as to suit
students in the Honour Schools. The salary of the lecturer to be paid
by the Council, and the University to accord him, as far as practicable,
the status of a Reader attached to the University.
Or, as an alternative : —
That each University should join with the Council in supplying
funds for a readership. The reader to be appointed by a committee in
which the Boyal Geographical Society should be represented.
Further it was decided : —
That the Council are prepared to award in alternate years at each
University an exhibition, value lOOL, to be spent in the geographical
investigation (physical or historical) of some district approved by the
Council, to a member of the University of not more than eight years'
standing, who shall have attended the geographical lecturer's courses
during his residence.
2 B 2
33^ THE ANNUAL ADDRESS ON THE PBOGRESS OF GEOGRAPHY: 1886-7.
Or, in lieu of the above ; —
** In tlie event of it being conaidered undesirabla in any year to award
the exhibition, the funds may be devoted to two prizes of 5QL and 25/.
reepeetively, to be offered to members of the University of the same
standing, for an essay on a geograpliical snbject, tbo conditions of which
would be laid down by the Council**'
The Council contemplated that such a lecturer should from time to
time delivia* lectures iu Loudon^ which they did not doubt would bo
t|uito compatible with the discharge of University duties.
These proposals were forwarded to the Y ice -Chancellors of the two
Universities, with letters expressing the hope of the Council that they
would receive the favourable consideration of the University autho-
rities.
Both the TJniverfcities have resixinded very coidially to the proposals
thus made to them. The arrangements contemplated by the Council
are likely, however, to be so far modified as to substitute tlie appointment
of two lecturers, one for each University, in place of one to serve for both,
a change which certainly appears to bo for the better. The University
of Oxford, it is anticipated, will now take very early steps for the
nomination of a Keader in Geography. The authorities at Cambridge
have expressed a wnsh to postpone the appointment of the lecturer
until next year, and have requested the Council to endeavour to arrange
in the interval for the delivery of an introductory courae of lectures,
illustrative of the general character and scope of the instruction in
geography which it will in the future be the duty of the lecturer to
impart. This the Council hoi>e to be able to accomplish.
The proposals made to the Education Department have also been
moat readily assented to. The final form in which this part of the
scheme is understood to be settled is as follows: — The Council offer one
flcholaiAhip, value 15L, and four prizes, consisting of atlases or books,
to the successful male candidates passing highest in the examination in
geography at the yearly examinations for teachers' certificates con-
ducted by the Education Department ; and a like scholarship and four
prizes to the female teacher candidates. At the same time a wish has
been expressed that the Council may he furnished with the answers of
the selected candidates, in order that the}" may form a judgment as to
the standard of education acquired, and to regulate their future action
in respect to the prizes. Effect will bo given to this at the examinations
to be held in December next.
It may therefore be confidently exixscted that in the course of the
ensuing year these arrangements will come into practical operation, and
I trust that at the next Anniversary' Meeting of the Society it will be
possible to adduce direct evidence of the successful inauguration of these
important measures.
The Council has further endeavoured to promote the cause of
THE ANNUAL ADDRESS ON THE PROGRESS OF GEOGRAPHY: 1886-7. 385
education in geography by assisting the Oxford University Extension
course of lectures, so far as this particular branch of instruction is
concerned. The reports which the Council has received of the success
of these lectures, in arousing an interest in the study of geography
among an important class at some of the larger centres of population,
are such as to justify the hope that valuable results may be secured in
this direction also.
In immediate connection with this statement of the action taken for
the furtherance of geographical education, I may conveniently refer to
important discussions on this subject that have been raised during the
past year before the Society at two of its ordinary meetings, and before
the Geographical Section of the British Association.
Some divergence of opinion might, perhaps, have been expected
among those who took part in these discussions, as to the best method of
dealing with geographical instruction. I think, however, that when
certain ambiguities of form and expression are set aside, there will be
found to be substantial identity of judgment on the essentials of the
questions involved.
In the first place, it was for the most part rather assumed, than speci-
ficcdly stated, that the discussion had reference to the more advanced
education, and that the students proposed to be dealt with had already
acquired some elementary knowledge both of the main facts of topo-
graphical geography, and of the chief physical forces that are eflfective
in determining the conditions of the earth's surface. In describing
what I gather from these discussions to have been the general opinion
as to the system of instruction to be adopted for pupils thus prepared, I
cannot do better, I think, than follow with very little modification the
words of Mr. Bryce, whose lucid observations very ably summed up the
essential points under discussion. Was it not the function of scientific
geography, he asked, to exhibit the way in which a variety of physical
causes played firstly upon one another and secondly upon man, and was
it not the case that the duty of a University professor of geography,
would be best discharged when he dealt first with the elementary
causes, and then showed the students by successive stages how each
cause passed into a secondary or subsidiary cause, until the world as
it now is was arrived at? He would naturally begin with the
distribution of land and sea, of the continents, islands, and oceans ;
of the directions and elevations of mountain chains. Thence,
he would pass to the winds, rains, and climate, which depeuded
on the distribution of the land, the mountains, and the sea. From
this secondary set of causes he would follow the distribution of
vegetation and of animal life, examining the resulting fertility and
productive power of different countries, and showing the sequence of
cause and effect through the varying rainfall, the distribution of land
and sea, and the influence of the sun's heat. He would then pass on to
33G THE ANNUAL ADDRESS ON THE PROGRESS OF GEOGRAPHT: 1886-7.
consider how all ihcae causes operated upon man and dGtermined the
conrse of tiumaa history.
If thiB bo^ as there can Ije no reason to donbt that it really is, tlie
right method uf teaching geography, it follows of necessity that the
80ope of geography as a scientific study is marked out by the same
general principles. Geography is essentially a science of observation,
and as such is ancillary to many other branches of science, to all of
which it brings its aid, supplying them with those data relating to the
distribution of land and sea, to the e^Dnfignration of the surface whether
above or below the sea4evel, to terreetrial position, and so forth, by
which are determined those conditions of climate that are now, or have
been influential, or which indicate former conditions of the earth, the
coDsideration of which is involved in tbo devcloj>ment of those sciences.
I cannot but regard as idle the questions that have sometimes been
raised as to the claim that geography has to be regarded as a science.
There in no reason for hesitation in declaring that geography has
for its object a perfectly definite branch of knowledge, namely the
investigation and representation of the various features of the earth's
Burface, and the study of the secondary effects of these features
on all that is oljserved on the earthy and that to the series of facts
thus brought together, scientific methods are perfectly applicable.
There is, in fact, no greater difficulty in recognising the legitimate
place of ge<^aphy as one of the sciences of oheervationj because
of the close relation that subsists between the matters with which
it deals, and those that fall within the scope of other branches of
science such as geology or biology, than there is in assigning the like
character to chemistry and electricity, because of the interaction of the
forces with which they specially deal, with those that constitute the
principal subject of inquiry in other specialised fields of human
knowledge.
The only expedition now on foot under the direct control of the
Society is that under Mr. Last, which, according to accounts just
received, has returned to Zanzibar, and to which I shall again refer
hereafter.
At the end of last year the steps that had been taken for the
despatch of an expedition for the relief of Em in Bey were brought
before the Council, with a view to Beeking the aid of the Society m
the undertaking, and the Council having been informed that such an
expedition had been organised under the control of a responsible Com-
mittee, with the approval of the Egyptian Government, and with the
promise of a grant in aid from that Government, it was resolved that
the Council being satisfied that valuable new geographical data are
likely to be obtained by whichever route the expedition proceeds, a
grant of 1000^ should he made to the Managing Committee of the
expedition, to bo applied in aid of the geographical exploration of the
THE ANNUAL ADDRESS ON THE PROGRESS OF GEOGRAPHY: 1886-7. 337
oountry to be trayeraecU and in the hope that the results of that explorar
tion may be communicated for publication by the Society.
The Managing Ck>mmittee, through Mr. W. Mackinnon, in acknow-
ledging this grant, stated that it was understood that all new geo-
graphical information which might be obtained by Mr. Stanley during
the progress of the expedition towards Emin Bey's headquarters, and on
the journey back, should be communicated to the Society immediately
on receipt, for publication by them.
Mr. Stanley started on the 17th February yUl Egypt and Zanzibar,
and his progress so far as now known will be noticed subsequently.
According to long-established custom, I now proceed to review the
chief geographical events of the year ; a task which the ever-increasing
volume and complexity of the literature of the subject, and the growing
number and variety of explorations, renders yearly more difficult. It
will naturally be impossible to notice more than the principal occur-
rences, and I will commence with Africa, which continent, as in so
many former years, has been the chief field of activity.
The attention of geographers during the year, as far as regards
Africa, has been chiefly directed to the basin of the Congo, where
many explorers, of various nationalities, have been employed in ex-
ploring and surveying the numerous streams which combine to make
the Congo one of the greatest fluvial systems of the world. Other
explorers have been engaged in the same region in examining into its
economical and prospective commercial resources, but at present without
definite results. An excellent summary of the geographical work done in
the Congo region up to the middle of last year was given to the Society
in this hall, in June last, by Sir Francis de Winton, who had then recently
returned from his two years' administration of the country. The most
important of the new explorations he described was that of Lieutenant
Wissmann and his party, who had embarked on the upper waters of the
Eassai river, near the part made known to us by Livingstone and
Cameron, and navigated it to its junction with the Congo. Since then
Dr. Wolff, one of Wissmann's companions, has explored the Sankuru, a
large northern tributary of the Kassai, and found it naviga);)le for a long
distance. One result of this latter exploration is to show that another
navigable river of the far interior, the Lomami, enters the Sankuru
from the north-east, and that it is a distinct river from the Lomami of
Cameron, recently ascended by Grenfell, which enters the Congo near
Stanley Falls.
The direction which the Kassai takes — in a long curve, from south-
east to west-north-west — causes it to be the recipient of nearly all
the drainage of the southern half of the Congo basin, and, near
it^ junction with the main stream it adds to its volume the waters
of another great tributary, the Quango, besides the Mfini from a
chain of great lakes further north. The united waters are poured
338 THE ANNDAt ADDKESS ON THE PROGRESS OF GEOGRAPHY: 1S80-7.
into the Congo tlirough the Kwa, whicli, according to Mr, Gren-
feira inoaaurement, is contracted in ita passage tlirougli a rango of
low hille, and at its mouth is only 700 yards wide (a little Kigher up
only 450 yards); tlie depth of the swiftly flowing stream Mr. Gronfell
was unable to ascertain as no bottom was touched with a lino 120 feet long*
The prospective value to the Congo State of the Kassai, with its im-
mense mileage of navigable waters flowing through fertile plains, is
acknowledged on all hands. Already stations have been founded on its
l>anks, and Portuguese traders are choosing the newly-discovered river
route in preference to their old inland road into the interior fiom
Loanda. It has been during the past few months repeatedly reascended
by river steamei's, once by Sir Francis de Winton himself.
Equal in importance and extent have been the explorations and
surveys along the main river and many of its tributaries airried out
by Mr. Grenfell, The chief of these explorations waTe noticed by the
Marquis of Lome in the Address of last yeai-; and a brief general
account of his surveys was given, together with a reduction of hits
admirabto series of ri%^er charts, in the October number of our
* Proceediogs.' Since then Mr. Grenfell has added to his achieve-
ments the ascent of the unknown portion of the Quango between its
junction with the Kassai (or Kwa) and the Falls of Xikunji, which
latter was the farthest point, coming down i-iver, reached by a former
traveller, Von Mechow,
Other considerable additions have been made to our knowledge of
the Congo region, by LieutonantB Kund and Tapponbeck^ members of a
flcientific expedition sent out in 1884 by the German African Asaocia-
tion. These two courageous travellers, instead of following the courses of
the rivers like others, and gleaning information only of the country and
people along the banks, struck across the countrj% first from Stanley
Pool to the south, and thence towards the east^ crossing in succession all
the southern tributaries, from the Quango inclusive to the Lukenye,
beyond the Kassai ; a toilsome and dangerous march of about 600 miles.
Another member of the same expedition, Dr. Buttner, made also a land
journey, of le^ extent but not less interest. Starting from San Salvador,
the old capital of the Coo go, ho travelled eastward and crossed the
Quango, reaching the capital of a negro potentate named Kaaongo^
whence he struck northward to the main Congo above Stanley PooL
Much valuable information regarding tbe coniiguration of the country
and the ethnology and products of the interior was obtained, on these
two journejs. We learn, for example, that the whole western section, to
a diiitiiuce some 400 miles inland » is a hilly country cut up by devp
valleys, to which succeeds, further inland, a wide stretch of undulating
plains, wooded only along the courses of streams, and that it is only
when the eastern side of the Kassai is reached that continous tropical
forest is met with.
THE ANNUAL ADDRESS ON THE PROGRESS OF GEOGRAPHY; 1886-7. 839
North of the Congo the French have been active both in completing
the pioneer exploration of their new possessions and in laying down
with scientific precision large tracts of country imperfectly known.
The most important work of the latter kind is that of Captain Bouvier,
the representative of France on the joint commission for laying down
the boundary between the Congo State and the French Possessions.
This accomplished surveyor fixed numerous positions by a long series
of observations both for longitude and latitude, and his report, which
will be accompanied by an atlas of thirty-eight maps on various scales,
will form a solid contribution to our geographical knowledge of the
region. An important pioneer exploration, about the same time, was
made by M. Jacques de Brazza, brother of the eminent traveller, to the
north and east of the French stations on the river Ogow6, undertaken
soon after Mr. Grenfell's discovery of the magnitude of the Mobangi, and
apparently with the object of ascertaining whether that great river
flowed within the French boundary as fixed at the Berlin Conference.
After a journey of a month's duration through dense forests M. de Brazza
emerged on an open plain through which flowed, not the Mobangi
but the Sekoli, an independent tributary of the Congo lying far to the
westward. After a fruitless attempt had been made to penetrate beyond
this river, his party built canoes and descended the Sekoli to its mouth.
It has been recently announced that by arbitration the French boundary
has been extended a little farther to the east than fixed by the Berlin
Conference, so as to include the right bank of the Mobangi. A complete
and very useful rhume of all the geographical work accomplished by
recent French explorers in the Ogowe-Congo region, by Major de Lan-
noy de Bissy, was contributed to our * Proceedings ' for December last,
illustrated by a map reduced from the French surveys.
Public interest has recently been directed towards the region north
of the Congo, and the practicable routes it may offer to the Kiam-Niam
countries and the Egyptian Soudan, in consequence of the despatch
of the expedition under Mr. Stanley, for the relief and rescue of £min
Bey, which has adopted the Congo route to the Upper Nile in pre-
ference to the more direct and shorter route inland from Zanzibar. A
paper giving a resumS of all published information regarding this region
was recently read in this hall by our accomplished young colleague
Mr. J. T. Wills. Since then you have had before you the greatest of all
travellers in this little-known region. Dr. Junker, and heard his own
account of his six years' explorations. The wide open plain country
lying between the Congo and the Nile, which Dr. Junker described to
us, is watered by numerous streams, the chief of which, the Welle-
Makua, flows westerly in the direction of the Upper Mobangi, and,
judging from Dr. Junker's maps, it is difficult to dispute his conclusion,
in which Mr. Wills agrees, that the two rivers are the same. Other
geographers believe that the Welle-Makua belongs to the Shari system
3i0 THE ANNUAL ADDRESS ON THE PROGRESS OF GEOGRAPHY: 188S-7.
and flows into Lake diad. The alternative offei's one of those problems
in which specalative geographers seem to delight ; hut in this case it
will not ho long before a solution is arrived at in the only satisfactory
way, namely, by actual exploration. Meantime wo learn, by the latest
news from the Congo, that Mr. Stanley has chosen to adopt a somewhat
more direct route to Emin Pasha than that first proposed, namely, from
the Congo near Stanley Falls by land to the ehores of the Albert
Nyanza*
Two more journeys across the continent have been brought to a
suecesefnl conclusion during tJie past year. One by M, Gleernp, a
Swedish officer, formerly in the service of the Congo State» who crossed
from Stanley Falls to Zanzibar, and the other by the experienced
traveller and geologist, Dr. Oscar Lenz, who undertook in 1885 an ex-
pedition for the purpose of reaching Br, Junker and Emin Fasha viA the
Congo. Beaching Stanley Falls in February 1886, Br. Lenz was unable
to obtain men from the Arab traders there to accompany him on the march
through the unknown country between that point and the Upper NOe,
and proceeded to Ujiji in the hope of meeting with better success there,
and advancing northwards along the eastern side of Lake Tanganyika.
The distiirb^id state of the country and the excitement in Uganda
made this nnpossible, and he took the Tanganyika and Nyassa route
to the Lidian Ocean, emerging at the Portuguese Bettlement of QuilH-
mane.
Further south Dr. Hans Schlnz, a learned botanist and etbnologiet,
has been exploring with fruitful results the region between the Kunene
and Lake Kgami,
On the eastern side of the continent our Society is especially in-
terested in the expedition of Mr. J. T. Last, who was commissioned by
us in the summer of 1885 to proceed to the region between the Rovuma
and the Zambesi and follow up the work of Mr, 0*Neill by exploring the
Namuli Hills and the Liikugu Valley. We hear by recent telegram of
his safe arrival at Zanzibar, and may shortly expect him home to give
us in person an account of his journey. The letters which wo have re-
ceived from him from time to time have informed us that ho has carried
out his programme, though he found the summit of the Namnli Hills
inaccessible, and in addition traversed the wbolo region a second time,
striking into the interior from Qnillimane, and emerging at Ibo on the
Mozambique coast.
Count Pfei], one of the most active of the pioneers in the newly-
acquired German Protectorate of Eastern Tropical Africa, published last
year an account of hia two journeys in Khutu and in the neighbouring
region, a country previously known to us only through Thomson's
expedition to the Central African Lakes. Some additions to our know-
ledge of the geography of tbis part of the Afiican interior have resulted
from Count P full's labours, the most interesting of which ig the dis-
;
THE ANNUAL ADDRESS ON THE PROGRESS OF GE06RAPHT: 1886>7. 841
oovery of the main stream of the Ulanga, or upper course of the Bufigi,
a river which this explorer claims to be of some importance, and which
he navigated in a boat for upwards of 150 miles.
The unsuccessful attempt of the experienced African traveller Dr.
Fischer to carry succour to Dr. Junker in 1885-6, a mission with
whidi he was charged by that traveller's family, would have excited
great interest in the earlier days — ^not long past — of Central African
travel. The route he took led for several hundred miles through a
totally unexplored country, namely, from the Pangani westward across
the region which still remains a great blank on our maps to the caravan
route between Unyanyembe and Victoria Nyanza. He reached the
southern shores of the Victoria in January 1886, but found it im-
possible to obtain leave to pass through the territory of the fanatical
king of Uganda. Turning backward he made a valiant attempt to
reach the Upper Nile by the eastern side of the great lake, but his
supplies failed him by the time he arrived at Lake Bahriugo, and he
returned with a sorrowful heart to the coast. He did not long survive
the fatigues of this arduous journey, but died soon after his return to
Europe, in November last.
In the continent of Asia the most important addition to our
accurate geographical knowledge of the interior is no doubt that
gained by the joint Bussian and British Commission, which has been
engaged on the survey of the northern frontier of Afghanistan from the
borders of Persia to the Upper Oxus, but pending the diplomatic settle-
ment of disputed (points this information has not been made public,
though it will doubtless soon become available. A brief note of a portion
of this work, describing surveys made by Captains Maitland and Talbot,
between the Hari-rud and Bamian, connecting Herat with the last-named
place, and also with points north of the Oxus, and the neighbourhood of
Kunduz, has appeared in our ' Proceedings.' The total area surveyed
amounts to about 120,000 square miles, mapped on the scale of ^ inch to
the mile, in 60 sheets. These brilliant results are believed to be unique
in liie annals of surveying. The chief of the British topographical staflF,
by whom these surveys were undertaken, was Colonel Holdich, to whom
one of the Gold Medals has now been awarded, in recognition of the
valuable services to geography rendered by him in this and other similar
expeditions.
Much valuable geographical work has also been accomplished by
Mr. Ney Elias, the Gold Medallist in 1873, who was despatched from
Ladakh on a mission to Chinese Turkistan, and diverging westward at
Yengi-Hissar, traversed the Pamir Plateau for a distance of 360 miles,
to the Khanat of Shignan. The details of this journey have not yet
been made known by the Indian authorities, but Sir Henry Bawlinson
has communicated to our * Proceedings 'a note in which he points out
that his former suggestion that this route, first brought to notice by
342 THE ANNUAL ADDRESS ON THE PROGRESS OF GEOGRAPHY: 1886^
Major Trotter, was probably that by wiiicli caravans of Rome passed
from Bactria, and had been used as a military road in comparatively
modem times, is confirmed by the additional light now thrown on the
subject ; and he identifies the lake Mang^Kul^ visited and described by
Mr. Elias, as the famona Dragon Lake of Buddhist cosmogony, and as
answering Yery closely to the description given by the Chinese traveller
Hwang-taang in the seventh century.
Mr, A. D, Carey, a gentleman in the Indian Civil Service, has in a
most enterpiising manner devoted a period of leave of absence to
a very remarkable journey in Eastern Tnrkistan and Tibet, and has
traversed a large part of those central regions which have lately
been made known by General Prejevalsky, and of which a brief
resume was given in the last Presidential Address. Accompanied
by Mr. Dalglcish, an enterprising trader, who had previonsly visited
Eaatem Tnrkistan, he started from Ladakh in the snmmer of 1885,
taking a route which had never before been trodden by a European, from
Leh eastward across the high Tibetan platean, and descending to Kiria
by an extreiBely difficult and rugged defile via Polu, After a short stay
here, he traversed the desert northward, along the course of the Khotan
river, and arriving at the Tar i in crossed that river to Shah-yar and
Kncliar. At the end of the year ho tracked the Taiim to Lako Lob and
proceeded thence in a southward direction to the foot of the great escarp-
ment which in this meridian forma the northern limit of the Tibetan
highlands, where he wintered, and made a fresh start across the Altyn
Tagh in the spring of 1886. No news having been received of him for
many months, bis friends had begun to fear for his safety, but all anxiety
has been sot at rest by recent telegramB from India announcing his safe
arrival at Ladakh at the end of the winter. Considering that Mr. Carey
travelled without escort and imarmed, and that his journey has been
performed on Blender means through vast tmknown tracts peopled by
tribes supposed to be of hostile and fanatical temper, his exploit is on©
of the most remarkable in the recent annals of adventurous travel*
Northwards of Khatmandu, the capital of KepaJ, about four hundred
miles of entirely new traverse in Nepal and Tibet has been contributed
by a native explorer, surnamed M — H., besides a confirmation of the
details of a hundred miles of ground previously travelled over. It is
regretted that the explorer brought back no determinations of heights,
which would have been most interesting, for he crossed the main ridge
of the Himalayas by one of the highest passes (the Pungu-la) and
approached within fifteen miles of Mount Everest. Another native enr-
veyor, E — N., who accompanied Colonel Tanner in bis explorations on
the Tibetan border in the autumn of 1884, was despatched across Bhutan
and the mouataina to the east to reach Gyala Sindong, the lowest point
yet reached on the Sanpo, and starting from the left bank of the river»
to find hie way back to India by ant/ practicable route, without reorossing
■
THE ANNUAL ADDRESS ON THE PROGRESS OF GEOGRAPHY: 1886-7. 843
the river. The object was to set at rest the vexed question of the con-
nection between the Brahmaputra and the Sanpo on the one hand and
the Irawadi on the other. The explorer met with bad luck at the
outset, from the fact of there being hostility between Tibet and
Bhutan, a state of things which had closed all the passes into Tibet.
He therefore had to find his way back to India down the Hachhu
and Wongchu rivers to Baxa, having been detained and kept under
surveillance for ten days by the jongpon of Chukhajong. His next
attempt was made from Dewangiri, whence he proceeded by a pretty
direct route to the Monlakachung Pass, and thence to the vicinity of Seh,
a very large monastery on the Lhobra river, the position of which had
been previously obtained from the north by Lama U — G.'s traverse of
1883. Here, in consequence of the rumours regarding the advance of
the Tibet mission from the south, and of a party of Eussians from the
north, the officials absolutely stopped his further progress, and kept him
in custody for nine days, and then conveyed his party under escort to
Seh. Thence he escaped with his party by night, and, keeping away
from the beaten tracks, found his way to Menchuna (lat. 28° N., long.
92° E.), and thence, via Tawang, to Odalguri, along the route formerly
traversed by Pundit Nain Singh. His work furnishes about 280 miles
of new route survey, and throws light on the general geography of
Bhutan, forming a connection with the work of Pemberton (1838) from
the south, and of the Pundit and the Lama from the north.
Another journey carried out by three English gentlemen through
the heart of Manchuria, from south to north from the shores of
the Yellow Sea, and from west to east to the Eussian settlement of
Vladivostock on the Pacific coast, also calls for notice. The party
consisted of Mr. H. E. M. James, of the Indian Civil Service, Mr. F. B.
Younghusband, of the King's Dragoon Guards, and Mr. H. Fulford,
of the Chinese Consular Service. We have received at present brief
accounts only of this meritorious achievement ; but they are sufficient
to show that the travellers made excellent use of their opportunities
of gaining accurate information regarding the country, its inhabitants
and products. One of their objects was to ascend the Pei-shan or White
Mountain, the highest mountain in the country, which they accom-
plished, and fixed its altitude by boiling-point and aneroid at 7525 feet,
the estimates previously given in books making it 10,000 or 12,000 feet.
A very good map of their route was plotted and a copy obligingly com-
municated to the Society. Mr. James has just arrived in England, and
we may hope to have an early opportunity of hearing from his own lips
an account of his journey.
The recent addition of Upper Burma to the territories administered
by the Viceroy of India, makes it certain that before long the various
questions that have till now puzzled geographers in relation to the
course of the rivers that rise in Tibet and flow from that country, will
344 THE ANNUAL ADDRESS ON THE PROGRESS OF GEOGRAPHY: 188S-7.
be finally cleared np, and a staflf of surveyors under Captain Hobday is
already at work in this country. The sonrcee of the Brahmaputra have
already been clearly designated, but doubta itOl surround the origins
of the Irawadi, which actual surveys will, it is to be hoped, before long
dkpeL
The expectations entertained of the opening up of the still
unknown interior of New Guinea, from the gouthem or Britiflh por-
tion of the island^ by the expedition of Mr. H* O* Forbes, have*
unfortunately, not been fulfilled. Mr. Forbes spent the rainy season
in the early part of 1886 in camp, at a short distance inland from
Port Moresby, profiting by the enforced inactivity, in cultivating
friendly relationw with the tribes, learning the languages and making
botanical collections. The remainder of his resources during these
months was exhausted^ and when at the oomm en cement of the fine
eeaeouj in April, he made a bold attempt with the great advantage of
the companionship of the Eev. *T. Chalmers, to reach the summit of the
Owen Stanley range, the term of service of his Amboynese escort had
expired, and he could do no more than make a few observations in the
rugged country at the foot of tho mountain p, 75 miles distant from the
coast. Since then he has not been enabled to renew his explorations.
We learn, however, that tho Government of Victoria has taken the matter
in hand^ and that a well-equipped expedition is in preparation for the
exploration of the interior, the leadership of which is to he offered to
Mr, Chalmers, whose account of his varied explorations along the
south-eastern coast region, given at one of our evening meetings during
this session, will be fresh in your memories. The great influence
which this experienced missionary pioneer has obtained over the natives,
and his knowledge of their habits, inspires us with great hopes in
the success of this enterprise, which so much depends on the willingness
and fidelity of native followers. Several minor excursions have sine©
been made by various travellers, but very little has been added to our
knowledge of the southern portion of the island. Captain Evenirs
larger expedition, fitted out in Kew South Wales, succeeded in ascending
the Fly river and penetrating for some distance up an eastern arm or
tributary named the Strickland, which is said to flow in the rear of the
range of ooast hLtls, but the map of the parts explored has not yet
reached us.
In German New Guinea the discoveiy of the important river, named
after the Empress Augusta, was conflnned by Captain Ballmann who in
April 1886 ascended it in a small steamer for a distance of 40 miles,
and it has since been further navigated by Admiral Yon Schleinitz and
I)r. Schrader in the steamer Oiilie, which reached a distance of 224 milee
from the mouth, the ship's steam launch ascending 112 miles further,
finding still sufficient water but being obliged to return for want of
THE ANNUAL ADDRESS ON THE PROGRESS OF GEOGRAPHY: 1886-7. 846
The progress made in the great continent of America which still
offers wide fields for the explorer and still wider and more productive
fields for the physical geographer, remains now to be briefly noticed.
As a contribution to physical geography, Mr. John Ball's recently
published volume on his voyage round South America and various short
journeys inland at various points, merits special mention. It is a model
of what serious books of travel that aim at conveying accurate know-
ledge of the countries visited, ought to be.
In Central America, our colleague, Mr. A. P. Maudslay, continues his
explorations of the sites and his studies of ruined cities, having returned
to Yucatan and Guatemala after reading tons in June last the results of
his second and third visits to Central America. His work has great
geographical and ethnological as well as antiquarian interest, and his
excavations at Copan show that the ruins are those of a city and not
simply of a group of sacred edifices, and that the course of the Copan
river has changed somewhat since the remote time at which the massive
walls of the buildings had been erected. He believes that he has good
ground for concluding that Copan and other cities were abandoned
before the Spanish discovery of America in 1492.
Lastly, there remains to notice an admirable laboar of exploration in
the interior of Brazil by a private scientific expedition consisting of
Dr. Karl von den Steinen, Herr W. von den Steinen and Dr. Otto Claus.
These gentlemen set themselves the task of exploring the course of the
Xingu, one of the great southern tributaries of the Amazons. The
work was accomplished in 1884, but the first detailed accounts of it were
published only in May and June last year. The party proceeded in
the first place overland to Cuyaba in the far interior and, organising
there their caravan, proceeded to the sources of the great river, and
descending along the banks of the principal stream, through wild
Indian territory, to the point where it becomes navigable, built bark
canoes and paddled down the river a distance of about 1000 miles to its
junction with the Amazons. Throughout the journey, in addition to the
geographical survey, physical, biological, and anthropological observa-
tions were made with the usual thoroughness of German travellers.
For the following brief report on the Admiralty surveys of the year
1886 I am indebted to our colleague, Captain W. J. L. WhartoD, Hydro-
grapher.
The portions of the globe where surveying vessels have been engaged
under the orders of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty are as
follows : — England, east and west coasts ; river St. Lawrence ; British
Guiana ; north-western coasts of Africa and Spain ; Eastern Archipelago ;
China; Australia; Tasmania; Coral Sea; New Guinea; and Banks
Islands, New Hebrides. These vessels consisted of seven steamships of
war, three sailing schooners of Her Majesty's Navy, and two hired steam-
ships, manned by 81 officers and 659 men. A detailed report of the
346 THE ANNUAL ADDKESS ON THE PUOGRESS OF GEOGRAPHV: imQ-
work accomplished by eacli surveying vessel will shortly be presented
to Parliament in accordance with custom.
The chief additions to hy^lrography resulting from the labours of
the surveying officers arc as under : —
Ai home.— A re-surve^^ of tho Would, an important navigable area
fronting the Norfolk shore between Winterton and Cromorj including tho
dangerous shoal banks Hai^boroogh Sand and Hammonds KnoU, which
were last examined in 1328-30. A thorough examination for tbe first
time of the outer Dowsing Shoal, an extensive bank 30 miles from the
shore at the north-eastern approach to the Wash- Completion of the
new chart of the British Channel.
Abroad* — In the river St. Lawrence, a re-survey of the narrowest and
shallowest pttssages eastward of Quebec, known as the Traverses, This
survey showed that considerable changes had taken place since it was
previously examined, nearly sixty years ago.
In British Gtiiana, a re-survey of Demerara with its approaches, as
also the ship channel leading into EsH6t|uibo river.
On the north-west coast of Africa, a new survey of the mouth of tho
river Gambia, embracing Bathnrst anchorage, and dctcrminatioii of the
astronomical positions of the salient {joints and chief places between
Bathurst and Marighan*
In China, a detailed triangulation of the coast and islands from
Amherst rocks, at the mouth of tho Yang-t«e, southward to Ockseu, a
distance of 400 miles in a direct line, was executed with precision and
accuracy, A chart of the outtir approaches to tho river Min, embracing
the islands of Cbangchi, Matsou, and White Dogs, was made and joined
to tho survey of the northern entrance to Hai-tan Strait, Completed
188.J.
In the Eastern Archipelago, the charts of the trade routes between
China and tlie Australian Colonies have been improved by a survey of
Cnyos Islands (Sulu Sea), and additional soundings taken off the north
part of Cagayanes Islands and in Banka Strait (Celebes). Near Port
Darwin, Dundas and Clarence Straits, now being much used by vessoK
have been partly re-surveyed. On the West Coast of Australia, a survey
in ample detail of that portion of Shark Bay north of Dirk Ilartog
Island. In Tasmania, a new chart of D'Entrecasteaux Channel loading
to Hobart and a re-survey of tho eastern entrance of Bass Strait between
Flinders Island and Wilson Promontory on tho mainland of Australia.
On the Queensland Coast, completion of the shore-line and waters inside
the Great Barrier Reef from Cape Upstart northward to Townsville.
The rapid advance of the colony of Queensland has made it desirable
to ascertain whether more passages do not exist through the Great
Barrier Reef that stretches for so many miles along the coast and bars
the approach, than are now known, as also to settle definitely the posi-
tionfl of the many dangers which stud the Coral Sea, which must be
THE .iNKUAL ADDRESS ON THE PROGRESS OF GEOGRAPHY: 1886-7, 347
traverecd hj vessels comiBg from the nortli-<5aBt. To this end the sur-
veying Tessek in Australia have examined parts of this great reef and
the following passages have been siirvoyed :— Lark Pass, a new and
good channel and convenient for vessels leaving Cooktown ; Flora Pass,
an opening Bouth of Cape Grafton (reported in 1883), proves to be a
convenient and safe passage throngh the Barrier ; an ojiening directly
opposite Townsville that was recently reported to be fifteen milt3s wide.
No wide and straight opening conld be found in this locality, although
the detached nature of the reefs makes the passage easy from inside in
fftvonrahle weather. In addition to these surveys the chart of Flinders
Passage also received amendments from the four tracks of a surveying
vessel through it.
Our knowledge of the Coral Sea has been much enlarged by the
Buocessful charting of the following coral reefs and islets : — Holmes^
Flora^ Moore, Flinders, Bart, Herald, Surprise, Bougainville [Heath
Eeef], Diane Bank [Owen Sand Islet], Coringa Islets* Some of these
dangers were a source of anxiety to tho mariner, from the doubtful
positions assigned to them ; and it is now believed that tho long vexed
question of the dangers reported by Bougainville, so far back as 1768,
but which have never since been sighted, although searched for by
more than one ship, is now settled. The soundings obtained over that
area of the Coral Sea in which the above reefs and islets ai*e situated,
furnish the first information as to the general depths, and it appears by
them that the known reefs stand upon a great plateau, from 600 to
800 fathoms beneath the surface, and that oceanic depths do not exist
between the reefs.
In New Guinea, an accurate survey has been made of the passages
leading to Goschen Strait through China Strait. This route will, no
doubt, be at some fature time largely need by steamers trading between
Eastern Australia and China and Japan. The shore-line of New
Guinea from Su-a-u eastward, to the North Foreland, as also between
Killerton Point and East Cape, was included in China Strait survey.
Northward of Port Moresby* in continuation of the portion surveyed in
1885, the shore-line was charted as far as Hall Sound. In the New
Hebrides^ a sketch survey of Banks Islands has been carried out.
Under tho orders of the Indian Government the Marine Survey of
British India charted the principal approaches to Mergui, a rising port
of trade on the coast of Tenasserim, and also examined the usual track
through Mergui Archipelago, southward to the entrance of Pak Chan
river. Detailed surveys were also made of the near approaches to
Bhaunagar, on the west side of the Gulf of Cambay, and also Mandwa
Bay outside that gulf.
Under the Dominion Government of Canada, the northern shores
of Georgian Bay, between Collins and Byng Inlets, have been charted.
During tho year the Hydrographie Department baa published 57
No. TL— June 1887,] 2 c
1
i
348 THE ANNUAL ADDEESS ON THE PROGRESS OF GKOGRAPHT; 1886-7.
new chai-ts and plans, and improved 20 charts by the addition of 29
new plana. 2700 correctionB have been made to the chart plates*
It will not be out of place, at the present tim% when our ootrn try-
men are celebrating in all parta of the globe the fiftieth j'ear of the
reign of Her Majesty Queen Victoria^ to look back on the progress that
has been made in geographical knowledge since the commencement of
that reign which dates seven years after the foundation of our Society.
The time at my disposal will only admit of an extremely brief review,
and I would refer you for more ample detfiils to the valuable memoir
drawn up by our esteemed secretary, Mr, Clements Markham, and
published by the Society a few years back, under the title of ' Fifty
Years' Work of the Royal Geographical Society •* A comparison of the
maps of fifty years ago with those of the present day shows how great
have been the additions mad© to our knowledge during tliis period*
Foremost, in this respect, must be placed the maps of Africa, the
interior of which has been transformed from an almost complete
blank, oontaining little more than hypothetical geographical featxires
derived from the reports of native trade rs* some of which had been
handed down to us from the time of Ptolemy, to trustworthy representa-
tions, based on precise data, of a vast system of rivers^ lakes, and mountains,
the existence of which had been wholly unknown to the civilised
world* This continent has at length been traversed and retraversed
in ail directions, and what remains unknown, consists of details
needed to fill in well-ascertained large outlines, rather than essential
features still to be discovered. Closely following the progress of
geographical research, some of the latest fruits of which it has been
my agreeable duty to recognise to-day, when presenting one of the
Gold Medals of the Society to Mr. Grenfell, the advance of commercial
enterprise is already carrying the pioneers of civilisation, reoiniited
from all the principal States of Europe, into the heart of what may
without exaggeration be called a newlj-found quarter of the globe.
The additions Uj out knowledge of the great insular continent of
Australia have Vicen hardly less remarkable ; and the difficulties
that have been overcome, and the enterprise and endurance displayed
in the investigation of its geography, have never been surpassed
in the history of the earth's exploration. Here, too, hand in
hand with the advance of geographical knowledge, the domain of
civilisation has been extended, and the Australian colonies have started
into existence fully armed as it were from their birth for the battle of
national life. Our fellow- subjects in those distant countries have
already displayed their complete fitness to undertake the task of further
geographical investigation in that quarter, and to them we may now
confidently leave it, assuring them of the continued sympathy and
interest with which their labours will be regarded by this Society,
During the period to which I am referring, much ako has been
THE ANNUAL ADDRESS 057 THE PROGRESS OF GEOGRAPHf: 1886-
349
done to a«H to oiir knowledge of the formerlj little tinderstood geography
of Central Asia. The Hiiflsian geographers on the north, and our own
Bnrreyors on the aouth, have now almost entirely cleared away the
darkness that shrouded this part of the earth's snrface. The limits and
the nature of the central plain lying between the nionntains of Siberia
and of Tibet have T:»een at length BatiKfactorilj^ ascertained. The long
diacnssed problem of the true source of the Brabmapntra has tieen
finally solved. The remarkable plateau of Tibet baa l3een crossed in
many directions, and important parts of it have been accuTately anrveyed,
flo that here also what remains to be done is rather to complete the
delineation of details than to enter upon altogether new investigations.
The large geodetic and topographical operations in connection with
the international demarcation of the northern boundary of Afghanistan,
will supply all that seems still required to complete the maps of
Western Asia between the Indus and the Caspian.
Turning to the American continent, we find a measure of progress
which, to say the least of it, quite equals that obtained elsewhere. The
exploration of the vast tract lying between the valley of the Mississippi
and the Pacific has been carried out by the United States Government
with a degree of completeness, both in respect to its topographical
representation and its pbyeical characteristics, that has probably never
been approached elsewhere, and the whole country has thus been thrown
open to the enterprise of the energetic citizens of the United States, who
have not been slow to possess themselves of its natural wealth.
In British North America, under less favourable conditions for the
prosecution of such systematic surveys as those carried out in the
territories of the United States^ much has still been done, and the recent
opening of the railway connecting Columbia on the Pacific with the
eastern Canadian States, and the establishment of another through route
to Eastern Asia, will doubtless before long lead to the thorough explora-
tion of the countries through which the railway passes.
The Arctic voyages which had been originally commenced with the
hope of finding a practically useful north-west passage to Asia^ have long
oeaaed to be animated by such an expectation, and their rejietition has
been undertaken in the cause of geographical exploration alone.
The results of the numerous expeditions undertaken during the
last fifty years, combined with those obtained by land joumeys directed
from British North America^ have very completely defined the
southern border of the Polar Sea between Behring Strait and Greenland^
and have secured the precise delineation of the somewhat complicated
system of channels by which the northern border of the American
continent is intersected, and of the islands formed by them, along the
Arctic circle. In like manner the boundary of this sea has been
determined by voyages directed to the north-east along the northern
border of Asia.
2 c 2
850 THE ANNL^AL ADDRESS OK THE PROGRESS OF GEOGRAPHY: 1880-7,
The higlxest latitude readied hitberto is ratlier less than 83^"* N.
— that hj within 500 miles of the Pole. The further extension of the ex-
ploration of the north of Greeoland and of Franz- Josef Land may still
b© possible, and it U hy journeys in this direction that any closer approach
to the North Pole will probably ho moat readily attainable.
I should not omit mention of the memorable voyage to the awtarctio
circle under the most experienced of Ibe Arctic naval commanders of his
time, the results of which were of the greatest scientific value, though
the difficulties arising from climate that stand in the way of a near
approach to the South Pole prevented the expedition reaching a higher
latitnde than 78'' II' S.
Lastly, I may notice the remarkable additions that have lieen made
during this epoch to our knowledge of the ocean, its depths, its tempera-
ture, the i;^nnds and climates that prevail over its various portions, its
currents, and the life with which it aboundn. Much of the knowledge
thus acquired has supplied completely new and wholly unexpected data
with which to deal in our endeavours to interpret the earth's histor3%
and to understand the phenomena it presents to us.
It has been in connection with the extension of geographical dis-
covery, both that to which I have thus more specially referred, and
other similar explorations to which specific reference has not been
possible, that there has been accumulated a great mass of knowledge
which has had a most important place among tho canses which justify
our assigning to this epoch its conspicuous character of deserving to be
recorded in the history of the present times, as the age of scientific
progress. There is no room to doubt that it was only by aid of the
accumulation of a knowledge of numerous forms of life from various
countries, develofied under different conditions, that the remarkable
generalisations of Darwin and Wallace as to tbo origin and distribution
of species became possible ; and that in this sense those great conceptions
of the signification of tho wonderful variety in the forms of animal and
vegetable life, and of the remarkable manner in which they are found
associated in various parts of the earth, which it has truly been said are
worthy of being classed with the sublime discoveries of Newton, may be
regarded as consequences of geographical exploration and discovery.
In a somewhat similar manner the progress of geology follows that
of geography, and the same may be said of almost all the natural
sciences.
In some branches of science the student is able to submit his con-
clusions to tbe test of cxperimentj to vary the conditions of his investi-
gaHon at his pleasure, and to draw his inferences from the varying results
under tbe changed conditions* In the great laboratory of nature no
sncb contml of conditions is within our power. But by suitable varia-
tion of onr geographical position, we are able to observe the eflects
Ihat thephysical forces of nature have produced under vailed conditions.
THE ANNUAL ADDRESS ON THE PROGRESS OF GEOGRAPHr: 1886-
351
and it thus becomes possible to some extent to obtain a substitute for
tlie power of direct experiment.
Properly to estimate the relation between geographical conditions and
any observed effect, it is obviously necessary to possess a sound know-
ledge of the physical forces that may be called into operation in pro-
dncing that effect, and consequently such a kDowledga is of essential
importance to every geographer,
I shall not detain you to say anything more on the mnch-discuased
subject of geographical education. I desire to point out, however, that
for such reasons as I have briefly indicated, it is hardly possible to over-
estimate the value of exact and scientific geographical research, and that
this can only be attained by those Tvho have been properly prepared by
previous training. Such a training, it is hoped, maybe provided by the
instruetiou which it hiis been the earnest desire of the Society to sco
imparted at our chief Universities, and which I trust may not only add to
the number of our scientific travellers, but serve generally to throw on
many other branches of a tody that light which an intelligent knowledge
of geography alone can supply,
OBITUARY FOR THE YEAR 188C-7,
As stated in the Council Report^ we have lost by death during the year no fewer
than seventy-five of our number, besides five Honorary CorreBponding Members.
Among them were several of onr moat active and esteemed colleagues, and others
eminent as geographers and scientific travellers. Detailed notices of some of these
have already appeared in the pages of oar monthly * Proceedings,' viz. Colonel Sir J. U.
Bateman Champain', U.K.; Sir T, Douklas Fousyth; Colonel C. M. Macgbegok,
K.c,0. ; M. A. W, MuoRK, CB. ; Admiral Budfobd Pjm ; and Dr« E. Rufpell.
A brief account of the chief work of General C. M. 8 tone, Colonel De PaiiE and
Dr* H. J. Mann is given in the foregoing Presidential Address, and a memoir of
Don Mariano Felipe Pak Soldan, from the pea of Mr. Mahkhamj appears in the
present number of the * Proceedings.' The names of the others, many of whom were
men of high distinction in diflferent walks of Ufe» are as follows : —
Sir Wm. p. Anurew, whose active life was spent m the promotion and ad-
ministration of railways in India, and who was for many years Chairman of the
Sfjnde Railway Compauy : he was the author of several pamphlets on the Euphrates
Valley route to India; Dr. Hermann Adich, kuowu for his biological luvestiga-
tions iu tbe Caucasus; G. F. Anga**, artist and traveller, the author of a pictorial
work on Zulu land, and of i>opulftr volumes on Australia and Polynesia j he died on
the 4th October last; Kev. A, Audy ; Bear-Admiral W. Arthur, e, a,, who had
seen mnch active service in the Maori and KaQr wars of I845-T and 1851-2, in the
Baltic and Black Sea duriog the Russian war, and in the China war of 1857-60,
He served as naval attach^ at Washington from 1879 to 1882 ; the Right Hon,
A» S. Ayrton ; R. A, Brooks ; Sir C. J. Fox BunburYj Bart, ; J, Bkobib ; Captain
E, BuHSTAii, B,x., the eminent marine engineer. Secretary to the Thames Con-
servators since 1857 ; X H. Batten ; Gzo* Bishop ; H. Blaine ; A. C. Baldwin* ;
Viscount Babrinoton; J. H, Baxkkdalie; Capt, E, G. Bayktok, b.k.r. ; Rev.
Thos. Butler ; J. Bbamley-Moore; E. Biocirss; W, Beksok ; F. Cooksox; E,
Cooling ; A. Cassels ; Geohoe Clowes, member of the well-known printing firm
of William Clowes & Sons, tiie Society's printers ; J. Tt. Deane ; Capt, Neil D, C.
352
THE LU KIVEK OF TIBET;
F. Douglas, S<iot« Faailier Guards j W. E. H* Elli^ ; H< Ec€Les j ViBOOunt
Falkland; \V. Fpidge; J. Pielden; W. Gillespie; G. 13, Glover; J. Y.
CxiBhOX, the emioeot Sinanifih schokr and translator of Cervantes; James Gibbs,
C.8.L, Member of tlic Indian GoTemment and Chancellor of the University of
Bombay, at an earlier time Assistant CommiBsioBer In Scmde nrwier Sir Bartle
Frere; R* R. Gloveb; JU Hakkey; A. B, lucjLig; R. Jeffs; JL WAnn Jackson ;
T* C. Jack ; Sir Geo. KejJjNeh, it*c*JC.G., a distinguiBhed Member of the Indian
Civil Service, who^amongst other posts had occupied that of Financial Commiaaioner
in Cyprus; J, Kemfsteh; Lord Kin>aird ; Sir Luke S.Leake; A. Lawrence;
Kev. J, Lo^'G ; Colooel Sir W. Owen Lanyon, kx.m jj., whose chief military services
were rendered in Africa, for be was aide-de-camp to General Wolseley in the
Ashaoti Ex|ie<lilioTi, Administrator in Griqualand West^ taking part afterwards in
the Zulu war, and in 1882 was Commandant of the hose of operations in Egypt ;
A. B. McQueen Mackintosh ; G. Dk Laudke Maciwna ; Admiral Sir G. N.
Broke-Mi DDLETON, Bart, ; hii* period of service in the Navy extended from the battle
of Kavarino, at which he was present as a midshipman, and the capture of St, Jean
d'Acre, to the Crimean war ; A. Matheson ; General R. C. Moodv, TwE.* wlio was
Governor of the Falkland Islands from 1843 to 1847, and from 1858 to 1863 Chief
Commissioner of Lands and Works in British Columbia, during which period thL*
foundations of the capital. New Westminster, %vere laid, and Port Moody (named
after him), the westernmost fioint of the Canadian Pacific Railway; Lieut.-Col. G.
Napier, r.a.; E, PiERREroxT, ; W. L, Powell, r.n.; Capt, W. B. PnrLiJMORE,
Grenadier Guards ; Capt, Lonsdale Pounden ; Euqene Kimmel ; E. K. Simmons ;
E. Stoey; Rev. M, C. T. Stdrmax ; J. Sarll; Sir Charles E. Trevelyan,
Bart. ; R. Vause; W. S. Whitwoktu ; G. W, Wheat ley ; E. Watt; and laatly
Jasies Wyld, the well-known cartographer and map publisher, who ooutribnted
much during bis time to the dilTusion of geographical information, especially hj
his *' Great Globe,*' which he erected in Leicester Square in 1851, and maintained
as a public esiiibition for ten years.
The Lu River of Tibet ; h it the source of (he Irawadi or the Saluin 1
By General J. T. Walker, b.e., f.r,8.
(Read at the Evening Meeting, April 25th, 1887.)
Mop J p. r.r»8.
That vast and biglil}' elevated regioD, in the heart of Asia, which ir
called Tibet by Europeans but Bod-yul or Peu-yiil by the natives of the
country, is bordered to tho south principally by the Himalayan mountain
ranges^ wrbich Btietch IGOO miles in longitudinal chains, running east and
west between the 74tli and the l)8th meridians, and also by a system of
meridional chains lying across a further stretch of about 250 miles
up to tho 102nd meridian, at right angles to the Himalayas, which are
ofl&hoots from the Tibetan plateau into Upper Burma and tbo Yunnan
province of China. The region is highest on the north, its loftiest
tableland^ tho Lingzi-tang plateau ^which lies between Eastern Turki-
atan and Ladak^rising to tho enormous altitude of 17,600 feet above
the BearleveL This plateau abuts against tho Kiun-Lun (Kuen-Luon)
IS IT THE SOimCE OF THE IRAWADI OR THE SALWIN ?
853
rangea whicli constitute tbo northern ecarp, as the Hiinalayae the
scmthem, of what is probably the greatest existing protuberance above
the general level of the earth*s crust. Thence the surface of the ground
slopes gratlnally to the east and west and Bouth, nowhere falling below
10,000 feet but on the extreme southern border. On the north varioua
Bmall rivei's Eod their waj through openings in the Kiun-Lnn to become
Icjst in the Tarim basin and the Gobi desert, and one considerable river,
the Iloang-ho, desceods into the plains of Northern China and the desert
beyond the Great Wall, and after many windings enters the Whanghai
or Yellow Sea ; but the general tilt of the ground compels all the other
rivers to pass through the son them scarp of Tibet, in making their way
to the ocean. The longitudinal chains of this scarp present formidable
harriers to the downward progress of the waters, but the meridional
chains facilitate it by the outlets which the intervening valleys present
for their egress* Thus^ there is a stretch of no less than 1 400 miles
between the two great fissures in the Himalayas through which the
Indus and the Yaro-tsanpo enter India, on the extreme west and east ;
whereas in a stretch of only 150 miles three groat rivers make their
exit between the meridional chains ; these are the Di-chu as it is called
by Tibetans, or Kin-sha-kiang as called hy the Chinese, which becomes
the Yang-tse-kiang or Bine river of China ; the Chiamdo-chu or Lan-
tsan-kiang, which becomes the Mekong river of Cambodia; and the
Giama-Nu-cbn, which the Chinese call the Lu-kiang, or Ln-tse-kiang
indifferently* The latter river is generally held to be the source of the
Sal win, but I purpose to show you that it is more probably that of the
Ira wad i.
But first I must just remind yon of the long controversy between
English and French geographers regarding the lower course of the
Yaro-tsanpo, the former maintaining from information derived from the
natives that it enters the Brahmaputra, and is the principal sonrco of
that river, the latter carrying it into the Irawadi, on the authority of
Chinese geographers. It is now knovrn with certainty to enter the
Brahmaputra,* but to this day the lower hundred mi leg of its course out
of the Tibetan plateau has not been explored by any European, or any
Asiatic of sufficient intelligence to give a rational account of it ; and to
this day, an even greater length of the lower course of the IjU river
remains aimilarly unexplored. These lengths lie, the first within, the
second on the border of the Eastern Himalayan region, and I wish
particularly to draw your attention to the circumstjinco that this region
ia materially lower than any other portion of the Himalayas, and yet
that it presents the greatest difficulties and barriers in the way of
geographical research. It commonoes alx>nt the 93rd meridian which
separates it from the great Himalayan chain of lofty peaks covered with
perpetual snow, which forms so prominent an object from the plains of
* Se3 Note 7 on the enatum hmlu of the Yaro-tjaapo,
THE LIT RlVEir; OF TIBET;
Upper lodia, tLrougliout their entire extent from east to west ; tli© peaks
are moatly 20,000 feot above the sea-level, sereral exceed 25,000, and
the liigliotit yet measured— MoDt Everest— is 29,000, They are dis-
tributed pretty evenly over the entire extent of tbe range; thus Nauga
Parbat, which towers over tbe Indus on tho extreme ivest, is 26,600 feet
high, and on the exti'eme east, in Bhutan^ there are peaks rising above
26^000 feet ; but for a considerable distance to the east of tbe 93rd meri>
dian there is nothing above 16,700 feet. Yet the higher region is better
populated, and the inhabitants have more or less constant intercourse, iu
times of peace, with each other, aiid with the people of India and Tibet
on either side ; the lines of communication between neighbouring valleys
and villages are well eatablitthed, though occaeionallj^ they are very
circuitouts, in order to avoid the physical difficulties presented bj the
stupendous scarps of some of the hill ranges and the deep-fissured
ehannels of some of tho rivers ; but by some route or other iVaiatics
may travel through the entire length and breadth of the couotrj, ex-
cepting when tlie paases are closed by snow ; and Earopeans may do so
too, excepting when hindered for political reasons, as iu Kepal and
Tibet.
In the lower region the highest peaks do not attain the altitude of the
principal passes in the gorges between the western peaks, and the general
configuration of the ground ia less rugged and precipitous; but the hill-
sides and the plateaus are overgrown with a dense tropical vegetation
which presents a very formidable barrier to iutercommunicatioD, even
between neighbouring localities. The decayed vegetation of ages
clothes the ground with a coating of rich soil, from which the inhabi-
tants readily raise a sufficiency of food to supplement the fruits and
roots which nature provides bountifully for their own requiremeuta and
their cattle and goats and pigs* Thus in every locality the people have
a tendency to become isolated from their neighbours ; iutercourso
between members of the same tribe is restricted by the difficulties of
transit through dense forest and jungle; di fife rent tribes, and even
different clans of the same tribe, regard each other with more or less
suspicion and alarm, and thus in their isolation they have become
savage and barbarous, and they are much dreaded by their more civi-
liaed neighbours in Assam and Tibet. Frequent attempts have been
made by officers of tbe Survey of India to obtain natives of the border-
land to train as surveyors and employ in making geographical explora-
tions of tills region, as baa been done so successfully in other parts of
the Himalayas and in Tibet; but as yet no one has been found who
could be trusted to make hia way any distance beyond the border.
Whatever exploration has been accomplished in this region has been
mainly achieved by Europeans, and it is to Europeans that we must
look for the elucidation of the geographical problems which still await
solution. See Note !•
:
IS IT THE SOURCE OF THE IHAWADI OH THE SALWIN ?
355
Ie 1820 Wilcox attGuipted to reach tlio sources of tlie Loliit or
Eaatern Bialiinaputi*a> the basiu of which lies between the basins of the
Lu and the Yaro-tsanpo, He ascended the Lohit from the station of
Sadiya» in Upper Assam, to the point where it enters the plain?, near
the Brahmakund, or pool of Brahma, so famous in Indian mythology ;
there he entered the country of the barbarous Miishmi tribes, and made
his way up the narrow and circuitous channel through which the riveV
flows down from ita sources, across the great spur from the Himalayas
which forms the eastern boundary of Assam ; ho passed irito an open
%'alley beyond, and had reached the Tillage of Jingsba, a Mishmi
chieftain, midway between the Brahmaknnd and the Zayul plateau of
Cis-Himalaj-an Tibet, when he was prevented from proceeding any
further. But he obtained some valuable geographical information ; the
Mishmis showed him the general direction of the river and the moun-
tains in which its sources are situated, and they gave him the names and
dietancea of the principal ^'illages on ita banks.
In 1836 Dr. GriflBth, the celebrated traveller and naturalist, ascended
the Lohit frum the Brahmakund, and had got about half as far as Wilcox,
when the Miahmis, who bad accompanied him 60 far, declined to take
him a foot farther, or even into the lands of the neighbouring Mishmi
clans, so he had to return to Assam without having reached Tibet.
In 1852 the Abbe Krick, a priest of the French Eoman Catholic
Foreign Mission, iucceeded in making his way up tho river through the
Hishmi country, and beyond, to the village of Sama, which is situated a
few miles below Rima, the chief town in the Tibetan district of ZayuL
After three weeks* residence the authorities insisted on his return to
Assam, His journey to and fro occupied about three months, and he
wrote a very interesting and animated account of it, which was
published soon afterwards in France,* but which seems to have been as
jet quite overlooked by geographers, though it contains some important
geographical information, as I will presently indicate. In 1854 he
again travelled through the Mishmi countiy, tliiu time accom^mnied by
a fellow-priest, M. Boury ; they reached ihe Tibetan village of Sama,
and there they were both treacherously murdered. This second journey
IB well known to geograj^hera, and Colonel Yule, in his geographical
introduction to the last edition of Captain GilKs * Biver of Golden Sand,
concludes his analysis of the evidence (*ree Note 2) whether the rivers
of this region flow into the Brahmaputra or the Irawadi, in the following
eloquent words : —
"Thus, siQgular to my, from the blood of thoise two missionary priests, spilt on
the baaka of the Lohita (the ' Blood-red "), ifi moulded the one firm link that wc as yet
possess, biDding together the ludiaa and the Chinese geography of those obscure
• *llelatkm d\m Voyage au Tliibpt en 1852, par M. L'AhiK; KritL
d© piete nt tfedutrfttion d'Auguste Vatoo/ Pari»» 1^54.
A ta tibrairlo
356 THE LU RIVER OF TIBET r ^^^
I only heard of the published narmtiye of M. Krlck's first journey
quite recently I from the Abbe Desgodius, in reply to my inquiries
whether any geographical information was forthcoming from the extant
accounts of the second jonrney which terminated so Badly. And I will
now give you a brief epitome of it, as the information it contains has an
important bearing on my subject this evening.
M* Krick prepared himself for the journey to Tibet by acquiring a
sufficient knowledge of the Mishmi language to enable him to converse
freely with the Mishmis, without the aid of an interpreter. The English
officials in Upper Assam did all in their power to help him, gave him
presents to conciliate the Mishmis^ and on the failure of his efforts to
indnce any Assamese to take service with him, as carriers of his goods
and supplies of food for the journey, they induced a Kampti chieftain,
Chowsam Gohaiu, who had previously been employed in endeavouring
to open up communications with Tibet, to accompany him and furnish
him with Mishmi porters. They started from Sadiya in December
1851, **a party/' he says, **of seventeen travellers in all, not including
the dog Lorrain who ran on in front,*' They followed the course of the
Lohit Brahmaputra, in some parts traversing the bed of the river, and
having to spring like acrobats across great boulders, in other parts
making their way along either bank, scrambling over precipices or
catting paths for themselves through dense forest and jungle. Thej^
had frequently to cross the river by suspension bridges of a single cane,
along which the traveller has to pass, his body i-esting in a ci-adle
attached by a ring to the cane, do^vn which ho shoots rapidly to the
lowest point, midway, and then hoists himself, laboriously olimbing with
both hands and feet, up the rise to the opposite bank ; happily, his face
all the while looks up to the sky, and away from the roaring torrent
below. M. Krick says that the first time be ventured on this means of
transit, and placed himself in the cradle, he felt like a man putting a
cord round his own neck; but after arriving safe and sound on the
opposite shore, without ever feeling the possibility of a fall, he re-
preached himself for his mistrust of Mishmi bridges, and from that time
voted that they should be recommended to the Society of Progress.
The presents with which he had been liberally furnished by the
English officials, seem to have been rather an anxiety to him than other-
wise ; for they excited the cupidity of the chiefs of the clans through
which he had to pass, each of whom endeavoured to get as much as he
could for himself. But wherever he went his knowledge of the language
stood him in good stead, and he met with a friendly reception ; at ever^*
stage, however, he was strongly advised not to proceed any further, each
clan fearing to compromise itjaelf with its neighbours and with the
Tibetans ; he was nowhere actually stopped, but everywhere endeavours
were made to terrify him into returning by tales of the dangers
which assuredly awaited him. On reaching Jingsha's village,
IS IT THE SOURCE OF THE IBAWADl OR THE SALWD^?
357
where Wilcox had boen turned back, ho was taken to the edge of
a loftj ijrecipicG overhanging the Brahmaputra, and Bhown the
place where two Asiatics, who were endeavourmg like him to make their
way into Tibcjt, had been murdered, some yeara previously, and their
corpses thrown into the river. ** See," said his informants, who appear
to have been really anxious for hia welfare, '* there are the stains of their
blood ; if you go on you will bo murdered and your body thrown into
the river." But ho was resolved to proceed at all risks, and when thoy
found this they guided him onwards and supplied porters to carry his
stock of goods, which, however, was being rapidly diminished by petty
thefts and presents to the chiefs. He had a gun, and always kept it by
him, and as the Mishmis had very few firearms, the possession of this
weapon made them somewhat afraid of him, and he appears to have
prudently abstained from over firing it, and thus betraying his small
.skill m its use. One night, when close to Tibet, he was aroused by an
Assamese whose release he had obtained from slavery to the Mishmis,
who informed him that the people were plotting his murder, and he
should keep awake with his gun in. readiness ; too tired to do this, he
dropped tho gun and fell asleep, commending his soul to God who, he
says, knew the motives of his journey, and could if He pleased protect
him ; next morning he awoke with some surprise at finding himself still
alive. He met with no further opposition, and his next march brought
him into an open valley, '* seemingly formed by the alluvium of the
Brahmaputra ; " and in the distance ho saw tho villages of Tibet. Great
was his joy at a sight which more than made amends for hie past perils and
privations. He entered Tibet repeating the Nunc dimiitu, happy if need
he to die there> hut hoping to he permitted to settle among the people and
learn their language and make converts to Christianity, They received
him kindly, their gentle and courteous manners forming a striking con-
trast with the savage rudeness and untutored ways of the Mishmis.
Equally striking was the transition from the tangled thickets and
rugged paths of the wilderness of hills through which he had passed, to
the open valleys, the smiling fields, the softly undulating pasture lands,
and the happy homesteads of the Tibetans ; " inhabitants, houses, culti-
vation, scenery, everything," he says, ** wore a gracious aspect ; the
change was as from night to day."
He took up his quarters in a Tibetan family, and at once set to work
to learn the language from his hostess, who was very good to him. He
seems to have been treated with all the more consideration hecause he
avowed himself a priest of the Christian religion ; lamas from the sur-
rounding monasteries came to visit him, and would prostrate themselves
before his cross, and raise his breviary respectfully to their foreheads.
But all too soon the local authorities insisted on his leaving the country ;
they said that an insurrection wa.B imminent, for which reason his
presence was not desirable at the moment, but he might return after-
358 THE W RIVER OF TIBET r
wards when matters had quieted down* Very reluctantly tbertjfore lie
commenced to retrace his footstepg. His stock of presentu was exhausted,
he was almost reduced to beggary, and his prestige was much diminished.
On reaching Jingsha's village he found the chief suffering greatly from
a bad wound in one of hia legs ; ho was told to cure the leg in three daj^s
or ho would bo killed if he failed to do so ; happily, he had gone through
a course of medical study m France under a Doctor Lorraiu* afttjr
whom the dog, who was his sole companion, was named ; he had
still Bomo medicine, and he succeeded so well in his treatiuent of the
wound that Jingsha Ijecame very grateful and friendly, and rendered
him substantial aBsistanco for the remainder of his journey back to
Assam.
After waiting two years for the suppression of the insnr reel ion in
Tibet, M, Krick returned to Sama accompanied, as already stilted, by
yL Boury, There they were murdered by a Mishmi chief named Kaisha,
who was afterwards captured in his own village by a detachment of the
42nd N J., under Lieut. Eden, sent from Assam, was tried, convicted,
and hanged. But the murder took place in a Tibetan village, and it
was instigated by a Tibetan official ; thia man was eventually arrested
by the Chinese JVfandarins at Kiangka, near Batang, and so severely
beaten that he died shortly afterwards. Thus the murder of the
missionaries was avenged both by tlio Chinese and tho British ofliciala,
apjmrently without any preconcerted arrangement on the part of the
two Governments,
That the Ahb(5 Krick should have braved the perils and privations of
a second jonrnoy through the Mishmi conntr}' to Tibet, in order to preach
the gospel of Jesua Christ, and teach the philosophy of the Cross, in
lands where Buddhism reigns supreme, is an instanoe of courage and
heroism and self-devotion of a very high order of merit. In this country
we have more opportunity of becoming acquainted with tho labours of
the notable mifisiocariea of the Protestant Churches, as Livingstone,
Williams, and Paterson, and Hannington, the most recent martyr of the
Church of England, than we have of tho-se of other branches of the
Christian Church. I have therefore deemed it an act of simple justice,
and one which will ceiHiainly enlist the sympathy of my audience, to
endeavour to rescue from oblivion the noble enterprise of this earnest
and devoted Frenchman and Ilonian Catholic priest ; it illustrates the
happy fact that tho heroes of Christianity are not confined to auy one
nation, to any one branch of the Church, or to any particular school of
Christian thought and discipline j but that tho noble army of martyrs
iinds worthy recruits wherever the banners of the Cross are unfurled.
The account of M. Krick's first journey to Tibet is a long buried
chapter of geography which it has been a pleasure to mo to exhume and
bring to light ; had it been more widely known, geographers would
have been spared a great deal of bhmdering and false geography, as I
K IT THE SOURCE OF THE IRAWADJ OR THE SAL WIN ?
359
mil presently eliow. But first I miast resume my narrative of tlie
exploratioo of these regions.
The next explorer was Pandit Krishna (A^k) of the Indian
Survey, of whose * Four years* journeyings through Great Tibet ' I
gave an account to this Society two years ago. (See * Proceedings * for
February 1885,) lie was returning to India from Darehendo, the
; easternmost town of Tibet on the frontier of China, and had made his
way acro6S the system of meridional monntains and valleys which I
have already alluded to, and entered the Zaynl basin from the east, and
reached the village of Sam a, with the intention of proceeding to Assam
by the direct route through the Mishmi country^ when he was told that
if he did eo he would certainly be either murdered or enslaved. Ho
there fore returned to India by a very circuitous route which took him
almost up to Lhasa. In this case the Mishmi barrier proved most
beneficial to the science of geography ; for the long route taken by the
Pandit to avoid it lay, for upwards of 600 miles, in entirely new ground,
the exploration of which has thrown much light on a very obscure but
important region, and has enabled the limits of the eastern basin of the
Yaro-tsanpo to be defined with considerable precision. Had he taken
the direct route to Assam, he would merely have confirmed what
geographers had already been told by Wilcox, and might have learnt
from the Abbe Krick, that the rivers of the Zayul district are the sources
of the Lohifc Brahmaputra.
Now this fuct in fatal to the theory of tho identity of the Yaro-tsanpo
with the Irawadi. Thus as the region between Sama and Brahmakund
had not been traversed by either Wilcox or the Pandit, Mr. Robert
Gordon, who had published a great folio volume in support of that theor}%
maintained that tho region is much broader than is shown in either
Wilcox*s map or the Pandit's, that it is crossed by the Yaro-tsanpo which
here receives the Zayul river and then passes down into the Irawadi,
that the Lohit is too inconsiderable a river to receive the Zayul which
Is a much greater river, and that the head-waters of the Lohit are
situated in the hills bordering Assam, at a much higher level than the
level of the Zaynl at Sama. He put forward his reasons for these
remarkable assumptions so dexterously, in a paper which he read before
tho Society (sec ' Proceedings ' for May 1885), that Lord Aberdaro, who
was presiding on the occasion, appCiars to have been half persuaded by
them, and concluded the discussion with the remark that,
*' Mr. Gordon had very fairly thrown out a challenge, that if the npper waters of
the Brahmaputra were at a higher elevation that tho Zayul river, into which he
ftisuines the Sanpo to flow, that would settle the question. Of course rivers did not
run np-hill, and if the Saopo near Kima was lower than the upper waters of the
Brahmaputra there conld be no more dispute about the point. He hoped that some
gifted traveller would before long be animated by a desire to solve the problem by
actual travel down the Sanpo/'
^f^ THE l.ir RIVER OF TIBET:
The challenge was immodiately taken up by a British police officer
in Assam, Mr. Needham, who proceeded, with the approval of the local
Government, not ** down the Sanpo," whieh no one has vet attempted,
but up the Lohit Brahmapntra, accompanied by Capt, E. H. Molesworth.
Ascendiiig thL* river, they pa&eed through the Mishmi country, and
reached a point within a mile of Eima, the chief town of the Zayul
district, a few miles beyond Sama, and then retnmed to Assam, again
travelling along the banks of the Lohit Brahmapntra. They have
fnlly confirmed the broad facta of Wilcox's geography and the Pandit'a
{see Note 3). Aod they came across a still stantling memorial of
MM* Krick and Bonry, in two upright slabs, on a very large stone
beside a stream marking the boundary between Mishmi and Tibetan
country, which they had erected to commemorate their passage across
the Jordan that lay between their wilderness and their promised land.
Krick gives a most vivid monograph of the Lohit Brahmaputra. He
describes the river as descending into the Zayul basin from mountains
to the north-east, through a channel which resembles a narrow cleft
between two towering pinnacles ; be testifies to its great water-power,
the irresistible impetuosity of its course, the wild boanty of its banks, and
the thundering roar with w^hich it startles the surrounding solitudes;
he describee its bed in the Mishmi hills as all too narrow to contain the
volume of water ; thus it does not flow, but bounds furiously ; its surface
ia everywhere a sheet of white foam, save in rare intervals of oom-
parative calm, where it seems to slumber in deep pools under the
shadow of huge trees, whoso verdure is mirrored in its surface. He
flays its volume is so groat that it is not sensibly augmented even by
affluents of considerable size. This is a very important observation, as
it indicates that the river has piobably another and more distant source
than either of the two mentioned by Wilcox and traversed by the
Pandit, which rise in the south face of the Himalavas, and that its
principal source probably originates in the Tibetan plateau to the north*
whence it descends into the Zayul basin, between the two towering
pinnacles which were specially pointed out to him.
And now let me take you away from this region into Upper Bnima. '
A range of hills which juts southwards from the eastern extremity of
the Himalayas separates the Zayul basin from that of the Lu river to
the east, and then, bending westwards in horseshoe fashion, separates
it from that of the Irawadi, and then again trending southwards,
separates Assam and Eastern Bengal from Burma. This range is
crossed by two routes from Upper Assam to the Irawadi, which were
explored, one by Wilcox sixty years ago, ihe other recently by Colonel
Woodthorpe and Major Macgregor. Of the latter an interesting account
was given to this Society last December by Major Macgregor. It lies a
little to the south of Wilcox's route, but sufficiently near to enable
Woodthorpe to test the accuracy of Wilcox's work in the region of the
IS IT THE SOURCE OF THE IRAWADI OR THE SAtWiN?
361
Upper Irawadi, and we have tlie gratification of knowing that Wiloox
has been as fully corroborated in this quarter aa he has heen in the
region of the Lohit Brahmaputra by Pandit Krishna, by the Abbe Krick,
and by Mr. Necdham. Now it is so much more pleasant to be able
to testify to the goodness of a man^s work than to speak of any flaw or
blemish in it, that it is with some reluctance, and without any thought
of detracting from the credit which is ver}" jnstly Wilcox's due, that I
would point out an unfortunate mistake which he made» not in his
geography, but in his nomenclature. He reached the river which is
called Nam-kiu by some natives of the country, and Mali-kha by
others, and he ciiUed it the Irawadi. It is doubtless a source of the
Irawadi, but it is certainly not the principal souroe, even should the
river he proved to have no source outside Burma ; for the Pandit's
survey shows that the range which separates the Za^^l hasin from
Upper Burma^ — and which is called by some the Nam-kiu, by others
the Kampti, and by others the Khanung range— trends considerably
to the north of the sources of the Mali-kha, and gives birth to
other rivers of greater magnitude* The erroneous employment of
the definite article the, in place of the indefinite article a or an, is
liable to cause mischief in geography as in all other departments
of knowledge, and its employment by Wilcox has caused many
geographers to look on the Mali-kha as the principal source of the
Irawadi, Dr. Anderson, in a paper which he read before our Society in
June 1870, maintained that this view was erroneous, and that the river
was probably fed by waters descending from the Tibetan plateau, and
entering Burma by what was then known as its eastern branch. Here
again the erroneous use of the definite for the indefinite article has
troubled geographerSj for Wilcox told of a branch of the river which ho
calls the eastern branch, and which certainly rises in the Namkiu-Kampti
range; thus it has been alleged in opposition to Dr* Anderson that
there is no room for his river between Wilcox's eastern Ij-awadi and the
Lu, and therefore that the Irawadi can have no other sources than those
indicated by Wilcox ; and there is considerable force in this objection ;
for we now know with certainty, from the Pandit's surveys, that no
Tibetan river west of the Lu can possibly enter Burma, because it would
first have to cross the Lohit Brahmaputra and the Namkiu-Kampti
range* If then any Tibetan waters enter the Irawadi, they can only do
BO by the channel of the Lu.
Of this channel the portion with which we are best acquainted is
that lying due east of the Zayul basin^ between the parallels of 28''
and 2t>^ ; it has been frequently traversed by the Abb6 Desgodins and
his brother missionaries, who settled themselves at a place called Bonga,
a little to the east of the river, on the lower parallel, for upwards of a
year, when they were driven out of the country by the Tibetan officials ;
it has also been crossed and geographically fixed on the upper parallel
THE LU Hm:R OF TIBET;
by Pandit Krislina, I had the privilege of making the iicquaintance of
the Abbe DesgodinB 8ome yearns ago when we were both residing in
Calcntta. Pie brought me a map of Eastern Tibet which ho had drawn
to illustmte a paper he was about to read to the Asiatic Society of
Bengal/ and in which he runs the Lu river int> the Salmn, boldly
writing the name Sal win along its upper course in Tibet, aa if there
coTild be no possible doubt on the eubject. At that time I had other
things than Tibetan rivers to think of and attend to, and it did not
occur to me to question the accuracy of the Abba's nomenclature any
more than I had that of Wilcox, But the enforced leisure of retire-
ment from the public service has i>ermitted me to turn ray thougbta to
the subject ; and my attention has been specially drawn to it by Herr
Loczy, the geologist attached to Count Szeehenyi's expedition to Western
China and Tibet, who has crossed the Salwin a little below the 2rith
parallel, on the road from Talifu to Bamo ; ho maintains the Salwin to
be too insignificant to have its sources far off in the heart of Tibet,
and therefore that the Lti river must be tbe source of the Irawadi.
This induced me to Inquire of the Abbe Desgodins whether he had
any positive information regarding tho couise of the Ln below Bonga.
He replied that the lowest point on the river which had been reached
by any of the French missionaries was the village of Ohamoatong, some
BO miles below Bonga, about latitude 27^ 45', which had been visited
by Father Biibernard; that beyond this, to tho so nth, lay a region
occnpied by barbarous Lii-tse and Ly*Bu tribes which none of the mis-
sionaries had entered ; but that he had met several Chinamen, natives
of the town of Young-chang, which is situated at no great distance
(20 miles) from the Salwin river, between it and the Lan-tsan or
Mekongj in lat, 25°, where tbe Salwin is generally known as the Lxi ;
that these Chinamen were in the habit of trading with the Ly-SM and
Lu'tse tribes to the north, and had made their way np to Bonga, and
that they had never told him that the Ln river near Young- chang was
not the same river as the Lu near Bonga. How, he asks, are we to
account for two rivers so near each other having the aame name?
and be nrgea that though there are many instances of a river having
different names in different parts of its ooiirse, he knew of none of two
distinct rivers so near each other having the same name. He admits,
however, that he has no positive information on the qnestion of identity.
Then he makes an interesting suggestion ; he says he has crossed both
the Lu and the Lan-tsang rivers repeatedly between the parallels of
28"^ and 29**, and that the Lu is there sensibly the larger river ; but Gill
and Loczy had crossed the Salwin and the Lan-tsan g three degrees
lower down on the road between Talifu and Bamo; if then it can
* Thid map was published at tbe time bj tbe Asiatic Soolctj, nnd libs been roprodiioed
in * Le TMbct d'iipres la corrcspondance dee MiBaionaireB, par C. H. Desgodlna,' 2iid ed.
Faiijs.
IS IT THE SOURCE OF THE IRAWADI OR THE SALWIX? 363
•be proved that at their points of crossing the Salwin is the smaller
river of the two, he thinks there would be a great probability that
the Lu turns into the Irawadi below Bonga.
The name obviously explains the identity which geographers have
hitherto assumed, but of itself it is an insufficient proof, and I know of
no other. We are told by Pandit Krishna that the Lu of Bonga is
known by Tibetans as the Giama-Nu, or simply the Nu (which the
Chinese have turned into Lu) for a considerable distance in its upper
course through Tibet ; thus it cannot acquire its name from the country
of the Lu tribe which lies below Bonga in the southern scarp of the
Tibetan plateau ; but a river rising in that country and flowing into the
Salwin might very probably do so. It is to be remembered also that
the characters used by the Chinese in writing, however well adapted for
the expression of ideas, are ill-adapted for the phonetic expression of
words,* and thus identity of name does not always establish identity
of the things named. Moreover, Chinese geography has no uniform
system of terminology, and it presents at least three instances of two
rivers, no further apart than these, having a common name, the Lo, the
Shu, and the Whai,
As regards the relative magnitudes of the Mekong and Salwin
rivers on the line of the road from Talifu to Bamo, Gill has given us
nothing on the subject ; Baber says the Salwin is " beyond question the
largest " ;t Sherard Osborne says the Mekong is " decidedly the most
important,"} Colquhoun is silent, but in his book * Across Chryse ' he
gives pictures of the bridges at each crossing from his own photographs,
and of these I have had the enlargements made which are suspended on
the wall behind me for your inspection. You will notice that the
Salwin is crossed by a suspension bridge in two spans, and the Mekong
in one span ; each span of the Salwin is nearly equal in length to that
of the Mekong, and thus at first sight the Salwin has the appearance of
being decidedly the greater river ; but Herr Loczy maintains it to be
much the shallower river of the two and to have a much SDlaller
volume. He says : —
" The Lau-tsan [Mekong] was found to be deeply cut into the rock at the point
where it was crossed by the bridge, a little below a narrow portal-Uke opening
between steeply inclined limestone banks several hundred feet in height — Gill says
1300, 1 would say only 600-700 — through which the river emerges ; its surroundings
• For example, I am informed by the Abb^ Desgodins that he believes the name
Lu, or Lu-tae, of the little tribe to the south of Bonga to be " a Chinese corruption of
tho native name * A-Nong ' ; as the Chinese language does not contain this syllable
Xong, and has no characters to express it, they must have said Lu instead," a statement
which can scarcely be considered lucid and identificatory.
t In his " Notes on Route of Mr. Grosvenor's Mission through Western Yunnan,"
p. 178 of * Supplementary Papers R.G.S.,' vol. i. part 1.
X See p. 217 of our * Proceedings,' vol. iv.. Session 1859-60.
No. VL— June 1887.] 2 d
36i
THE LtJ RIVER OF TIBET;
were very simikr to those of the Km-8lia*kiaiig near Eatang, both rivers being
deeply eroded and well developed, with deep water, smooth surface, and coastant fall,
and the sourcea of botli were apjiarently far dbtaiifc. The bridge was a suspension
bridge with an extreme length of 120 paces, correspondiog to the actual breadth of
the channel; the river, though only at low water, occupied the entire breadth of the
channel ; the high- water mark was 18 feet above tlie actual level.
" The Lu-kiang [Salwin] flowed in an open valley between two terraces 200 to 300
feet in height^ the nearest hills being two miles distant It was crossed by a fine
suspenision bridge about 200 paces ia length, with a centre pier resting on a great
rock which rose from an island in the middle. The river was not actually more
than 80 paces broad, and was flowing \vholly ia the eastern channel ; a bed of dry
fihiDgie and boulders was left exposed in the western channel. It was very rapid
and with a broken surface indicating shallowness. The actual level was vcrj little
below the high-water mark. The cotiTse of the river between its banks was winding
and irregular, the surface uneven, and the fall uneven. The bottom of the valley is
composed of tertiary lake deposits. The large boulders, and the velocity and general
shallowne^ of the water, indicated that the souroe of the river was probably at no
very great distance/*
This opinion of a profeBflioiial geologist is obviouely of great weight ;
I think it fatal to the hypothesia that the Ln river which has a course
of upwards of 700 miles in Tibet, and is known to h© a confiiderahle
river above BoDga, can ever become bo r^fltricted in volume as ia the
Salwin 200 miles lower down, (^See Note 4,)
I will DOt discuBS the question whether the magnitude of the Irawadi
ia not of itself sufficient to prove that the river must receive a con-
siderable body of water from Tibet in addition to what it receives In
Burmaj as has been so strongly and repeatedly urged hy Mr* Kobert
Gordon, Excellent authorities hold that the rainfall in Upper Burma
is enormous and sufficient to account for the entire volume of the
Irawadi; and this view was put forward hy Colonel Yule and supported by
General Strachey quite recently, on the occasion when Major Macgregor
read the interesting paper to which I have already alluded. But I
submit that we are not yet in possession of sufficient information regard-
ing the actual rainfall and the relations between the amount which
sinks into the ground and which passes into the river, to come to
any positive conclusions on this point. I remember that Mr. Gordon
has urged that the Brahmaputra needs no affluent from Tibet because
of the enormous rainfall in its Assam basin ; yet we now know with
certainty that it receives the Yaro-tsanpo from Tibet. If any weight
whatever is to be attached to his laborious investigations of the volume
of the Irawadi, as showing the necessity for the river to have a
Tibetan origin, that weight must now be transferred from the Yaro-
tsanpo to the Lu.
There is a remarkable consensus of opinion among both Chinese and
Tibetans that one or more rivers rising in Tibet flow into the Irawadi*
Their notions regarding the hydrography of Tibet to the north of Burma
IS IT THE SOURCE OF THE IRAWADI OR THE SALWIN? 365
are curiously confused, but I think this is probably due to the circum-
stance that the principal lines of communication in this region run east
and west, that being the general direction of the roads between Pekin and
Lhasa, while, on the other hand, the general direction of all the rivers
but the Lohit Brahmaputra is from north to south ; thus, as a rule, the
roads strike across the rivers, and do not pass along them, and con-
sequently the identification of the upper and lower courses of a river is
probably often a matter of mere conjecture. Thus erroneous information
has been promulgated which has had its influence, even on the latest
European geographers. For example, Captain Ereitner, the geographer
attached to Count Szechenyi's expedition, published a map,* in 1881, in
which he shows two rivers flowing through Tibet to the west of the Lu,
one of which he calls the Djama-nu-dschu — obviously the same name as
the Pandit's Giama-Nu-ohu — and runs into Wilcox's eastern Irawadi,
the other he runs into Wilcox's Irawadi proper on the west. The Abbe
Desgodins, in the map which I have already mentioned, shows a single
river, rising not so far north as either of Ereitner's, which passes a town
called Song-nga-kieu-dzong, and then flows through the eastern Himalayas
into a branch of the Irawadi. {See Note 5.) Mr. Lepper in his map of
the Singpho-Kamti country, published in 1882 by the Asiatic Society
of Bengal, shows the same river, and runs it into an eastern source of
the Irawadi which is called the Phongmai-kha by some people, the
Shumai by others, and southwards is known as the Meh-kha, which
joins the Mali-kha above Bamo ; this eastern branch M. Lepper calls the
Irawadi proper. (See Note 6.) But these three maps were constructed
before the Pandit's explorations were published, and we now know with
certainty that no Tibetan river west of the Lu can possibly enter the
Irawadi.
Dr. Griffith and Dr. Anderson have both concluded, from information
which they personally obtained when travelling on the Irawadi above
Bamo, that the eastern source of the river is the most considerable, and
that it rises in the northern plateau above Burma ; Wilcox in one of his
maps actually shows it as possibly doing so ; and the gallant Frenchman,
Lieut. Gamier, whoso promising career was so sadly extinguished in
Tonquin, where he fell fighting singly against fearful odds, arrived at
the same conclusion, from information obtained in the course of his
travels in Western Yunnan and the Shan States.
I have now placed before you all the information I have collected
on this interesting question. Of course, the chief argument in favour of
the identity of the Lu above Bonga with the Salwin-Lu is the identity
of name, and this is a strong argument, but it is not sufficient of itself
to establish the oneness of the two rivers. Hitherto a strong argument
has been the Abbe Desgodins's belief in their identity, he. having resided
♦ *Karte von China und Ost-Tibot mit besonderer BeruckBichtignng der Graf
Szechenyi'schen Route in den Jahren 1878-80.*
2 n 2
366
THE LU RIVER OF TIBET;
8u long at Bongn ; but tkis cannot l>e longer urged now he haa frankly
admitted tliat he has no positive information regarding the course of
the river for luuro than a few inilee below Bonga ; I rather think that
he has still a warm corner in his heai*t for the Salwin theory, but bo he
once had for the belief that the Yaro-tsanpo is the source of the Irawadi,
which he has long since abandoned.
But there is no such certainty regarding the lower course of the Lu
as we have of the Yaro-taanpo; for though a length of fully 100 miles
of the lower course of the latter river remains uneurveyed, the limits of
ita basin are known with precision, but a greater length of the Lu is
unsurveyed, and nothing is known of the limiting basin.
Happily, the exploration of this region would probably prove much
more practicable for Europeans than that of the Yaro-tsanpo; for the
Ly-su and Lu-tse tribes who in habit it, though they are said to be fierce
and barbarous, allow foreigners to travel throngh their country^ and
this the triV>es inhabiting the other region will not do. Thus an impor-
tant geograi>hical problem is definitely presented for invcfltigation, the
solution of which should be w^ell within the bounds of the practicable
for some of our countrymen in Upper Burma, Therefore, as our Presi-
dent, Lord Aberdare, hoped in the matter of the Yaro-tsanpo, I now
hope that some gifted traveller may before long be animated by a desire
to solve the problem, hy actual travel up the Lu ; and that, as in the
case of the Lohit Brahmaputra, the scientific world had not to wait long
between the propounding of the problem by Lord Aberdare, and its
solution by Mr. Xeedham, so now they may not have to wait long for
the unravelment of the problem of the Lu which I have endeavoured
to set before you this evening.
NOTES.
1, The Lamas^ Survey of Tibet, — Geographers liave long heea in poasessioQ of
maps of Tibet from surveys executed early in the eighteenth century by Lamas,
under initnictions from the Jesuit Fathers who were then making a survey of China
for the Emperor Kangbi, The Lamas' Survey is said to haTe been accomplished in
two years, and as the area covered exceeds lialf a million sqnare miles, the result
can only be rude and approximate, and must have been derived to a greater extent
from hearsay than frc>m actual snrvey. The distancea along the main roads were
probably measured with chains or ropes, but it is doubtful whether the directions
were determined hy magnetic hearings, and probable that they were merely estimated
by the eye, aided by reference to the positions of the sun and stars, for the loDgitudes
are much more sccurate than the latitudes; Ihns there is much less error in longitude
between Darcheudo (Ta-taien-lw) and Lhasa, distant 650 miles, and between Lhasa
and Leh, in Ladiik, distant 825 miles, than there is in latitude between Darchcndo
and Batang, which are only 160 miles apart This is singularly in contrast with
geographical mapping in general, latitudes being as a rule determined much more
accurately than longitudes ; and it is probably due to the fact that the general
direction of the principal roads is east and west, and that the distances were
measured instrumcntally while the heBricgs were only eetimatedH. Ihe Survey is
I
IS IT THE SOURCE OF THE IRAWADI OR THE SALWIK?
367
supposed to liave beon based oo aatronomical detflnnimitioni of position ; but this is
scarcely possible, for tbe latitudes of such important places as Lbasa and Batang are
very erroneous, tbe first by 30, tbe second by 70 miles.
The goograpbical details — as published in D*Anville'g Atlas, 1737 — are very
meagre, and occasionally very misleading; but they would seem to be generally
reliable along the principal lines of communicatioDj and they have been ct^rroborated
at several points by the work of the trained Pandits of the Indian Survey.
2, Mfmorandiun^ qu the eountrif^s hdiveen ?YM, Yunnan^ ami Btirmtif hj
Monseiyntfir TTiomine de9 MazureSy Vicar Apostolic of Tibd, — This memorandum
was commnnicatod in a letter written by the Vicar Apostolic, when residing at
Bongii^ to Bishop Bigandut of RaDgoon, wkicb Is published in tbe * Journal of the
Asiatic Society of Bengal,' for 18G1. The writer mentions a range of hills 30 miles
to the west of the Lu, to the west of which he says there is a rather i neons idtTable
river called the '* KoutJj Kiang^ or Sch6t<5 Kiang," which enters tbe province of
Yunnan under tbe name of " Lountchang-kiang*" and joins the Irawadi hakm Bamo ;
beyond it there are several ranges of mountains, of which the general direction is
from north to souths and then a considerable river "named in the maps Gakbo
Dzanbo** and " called by tbe Chinese Kanixxj tsangbo " which flows into the Irawadi,
and in the district of which, " according to the Tibetans, is the village of ^jam^,
where our two priests MM. Krick and Boury were murdered.'' Thus as wc know
that village to be on the banks of the Lohit Brahmaputra, we might infer that the
Loliit is the same as the Kanpoo, and Colonel Yule has drawn this inference." But
there is only one range of hills between the Lu and the Lohit on the main road from
the east into tbe valtey of the Lobit ; there are several meridional ranges west of the
Lu opposite Bonga, but they are all spurs from tbe Namkiu-Kampti range to the
south of the Zayul l>asin ; and the Kanpoo is certainly a river of the eastern basin of
the Yaro-taanpo. {See Note 7.) Kouts, Sch^t^, Loung-tchang (Yonng-cbang ?)
appear to be Cbioese names for one or more of the several rivens rising in the
Namkiu-Kampti range, which we know to be sources of the Irawadi,
The worthy Bishop*a geography lias evidently been confused by errors in tbe
map of Andriveau Gonjon, Paris 1841, to which he refers, and by hia Chinese and
Tibetan informants wrongly combining different rivers, as has been humorously
anggested by Colonel Yule.
8* Needkatns corrobomtkm of Wilc4}x and the FandU, — Needham was not in
a position to make a regular route survey, but he estimated his marches carefully,
and took bearings with a magnetic compass for some distance, but unfortunately the
iifeedk of this instrument fell out and was lost as he was entering the as yet un-
flunreyed, and therefore most important, portion of the rout« ; he also took frequent
readings with an aneroid barometer.! He makes the distance from Sadiya to Hima
187 miles, the corresponding measure on the map which has been constructed to
illufltnite the Pandit's travels, being 120 miles. But the greater portion of the route
waa surveyed by Wilcox ; and hia po«itions of peaks to the north of his eastern-
most point agree so closely with those of prominent peaks fixed half a century
afterwards by the Great Trigonometrical Survey, that his rendering of what he
actually saw, and did not merely obtain from native information, may he accepted
* In his Geographical In trod action to Giira ' River of Golden Sand/ condensed by
E. C. Bttlwr, p. [76],
t This instrument appears to have had a largo index error, giving readings about
1000 feet in defect; thus^ its height of Tamemtikh, 40 miles ahovo Sadiya^ on tbe
Lohit^ is only 450 feet, which is the height of Badiya; and its Rima is about 3600 feet,
the Pundit's value, d&iluced from the boiling poiatj being 4 €50 feet.
S68
THE LU RtVER OF TIBET :
without liesitatioD. This then fixes the Lohtt i;p to the point where he saw the
Gulma and La Tki rivers enter it, near each other, on the south or left bank. From
thence to TEima is about 47 miles by Needham, which is 12 miles more than hy the
map of the Pacdifa travels^ and 23 more than was estimated by Wilcox.
4. The purees of ilie Lu river, > — ^The general course of this riTer from its sources
down to Bonga^ has not yet beeu snrveyed* Pandit Krishna crossed the river and
fixed it on the line of the road between Batang and Zayul, in the 28th paralleh He
says that the Tibetans call it the Giama-Nu-chu, and that he frequently heard of it
as lying to the east of hia route from the Zaynl valley northwards to Lhojong, ia
lat. 30° 45' ; also that it is crossed by a bridge at the village of Shaug-ye^am (left
bank) on the road from Lhojong to Chiamdo ; and that when [he turned westwards
towards Lhasa, he was told that the river was still parallel to his route.
In Vol. XIV. of the great French collection of ' Memoirea concemaat rhistoire,
les sciences • • . des Chinois,' the river is said to have the MongoHon name Hala-ou-
sau {lit. Black water) and the Tibetan name Nga*eulh-y-tchou ; to rise to the north
of Lhasa, beyond the Terkiri Lake (the Tengri Kur) in the Fouka lake, whence it
winds through the Nga-eulh-ki-keu and the Ila-la-tche lakes, and then flows north-
east to So-ko-taouDg (lit. the town of Sok); then turning southwards, it passes to
the east of Lo-loung (Lho-iong) and enters the lands of Mi-la-loung, whence it passes
to Nou-y and takes the name of N'ou-kiang,
The Lamas' map shows the river as rising in hUIs near the Eara'' lake, to the
north of Lhasa, and flowing due east until joined by a river coming from the north,
past the town of Souc (Sok) ; the united stream then flows southwards, and is crossed
by a bridge at Sapia, on the lioe of the road between Lourondson (Lho-joag) aod
Chamtu (Chiamdo), and lower down is called the Nou-kiang.
Due, in travelling from Lho-jong to Chiamdo, reached the village of Kia-yn-kiso,
on the right bank of the " Souk-tohou, qui cotd^ efitre deux montagnes et dont le$
eauT sont largeSf ^profondes et rapides ^ ; he found the villagers in great tribulation
hwaiise a fine wooden bridge across the river had just been carried away by a flood j
be was consequently obliged to cross on a raft
Tlie Ahb^ Desgodius travelled from Batang viii Kiangka (Chinese) or Grartok
(Tibetan) up the valley of the Lan-taan to Chiamdo (his Tcbamouto), and was
endeavouring to proceed to Lhasa by the road viS, Lho-jong, when ho was stopped
on the plateau at the head of the Ou river (his Ou^Kio), which lies between the
Lu and the Lan-taan. He says of this road that it crosses the Lu by a wooden bridge
an stone piers, at a place called Kia-yu-kiao by the Chinese and Jelje-Sam by the
Tibetans.* He travelled along the Ou from its sources down to the town of
Tchiaya (the Pandit's Dayul) and on to its junction with the Lu op|>osite Menkon,
in lat. 28'' 34', confirming the FandiVs rendering of the Lu, but oorrectiog his map,
which shows a river flowing from Dayal into the Lau-tsan, though only by dotted
lines, implying uncertainty.
The Pandit, in travelling northwards from Lhasa, entered a district to the eiut
of the hike region w hich was called the Nag-chu*kha (lit Black water district), where
be crossed a succession of streams flowing eastwards, and coming from the northeni
spurs of the Niuchentangk range and the lake region ; in his map these streams are
represented as combining into a single river, the Nag-cha, and then flowing east^
wards in a direct line to Chiamdo, and then turning southwards and becoming the
Lan-taan; but the whole of this system of hydrography is purely conjectural,
• These arc probably the lutmes of two places on op^wsite hankR of the river, the first
on the right bonk^ as we know from Hnc» find the frtctmd, tho Pandit*a Shang-ve-Jam,
on the lefl bank.
IS IT THE SOURCE OF THE IRAWADI OR THE SALWIN? 369
as is indicated by the dotted lines of the map. Tlie delineation is obviously
improbable, and it appears to have been adopted merely because the only informa-
tion the Pandit obtained on the spot regarding the Nag-chu was that *'it was
believed to rnn into China."
It is in this region that the work of the Pandit from the south meets that of
Prejevalsky from the north ; the eminent Russiau traveller descended to a little
below the Dangla range into the basin of a river which he calls the Nap-chu or
Khara-ussu (Black Water), and in his map he shows the river as probably rising in
lakes to the west and flowing eastwards.
There is much reason to accept the concurrent evidence regarding the course of
this river, within Tibet, which is furnished by the Lamas' map and the ' M^moires
concemant les Ghinois.' The sources are obviously identical with the Pandit's
Nag-chu and Prejevalsky's Nap-chu; the further course, first towards Sok and
then to the bridge on the road from Lho-jong to Chiamdo, is supported by Hue and
Desgodins ; and the course below that bridge, down to the parallel of 29^, is
corroborated by Desgodins and the Pandit ; the channel between 27i° and 29° is
well known, from the journeys of the French missionaries at Bonga ; it is only
below 27^^ that the river enters an unknown region, and becomes lost.
5. The Sanga river the prohaMe source of the Lohit Brahmaputra, — A town
called Sanga^hu-jong (lit the town on the river Sanga) is situated to the north of
the eastern Himalaya and west of the Lu. In the map of the Pandit* s travels the
Sanga river is shown in dotted lines as probably flowing eastwards into the Lu ; in
M. Charles Desgodins's * Thibet ' (p. 287, 2nd edition) it is said to join the Zayal
river ; in the maps of the Abb^ Desgodins and Mr. Lepper it is shown as flowing
southwards into an eastern branch of the Irawadi. The Abb^ is now satisfied,
after perusing the Pandit's report, that it cannot pass down into the Irawadi, but he
still holds that its direction below the town to which its name is given, and which
he writes Sang-nga-kieu-dzong, is south, not east. Thus it is probably the river
which the Pandit came across at Dowa, where joined by the stream from the Tila
pass, along which his route lay ; he mentions it as *' the Zayul-chu coming from the
north " ; he also says that ** a route branches off [from Dowa] to Sanga-chu-jong,
distant about 50 miles to the north." He crossed the river a few miles below Dowa,
by a wooden bridge 80 paces in length, and found it "deep, and with a rapid
current"; so considerable a river must have a more distant source than the one
shown oonjecturally in the Pandit's map, and is most probably the Sanga river,
after its descent from the Tibetan plateau, " through the narrow cleft between two
towering pinnacles " mentioned by the AblxS Krick in his vivid description of the
Lohit Brahmaputra.
6. The Irawadi proper, — Of the two branches of this river, the Meh-kha and
the Mali-kha, which come together in lat. 25° 50, above Bamo, it is a question
which is the greatest. Either of the two may join the Lu in the unsurveyed region
between the parallels of 26® and 27®. The western river, the Mali-kha, has been
generally regarded hitherto as the principal stream, on the authority of Wilcox ;
but in Mr. Lepper's map the Meh-kha is called the " Irawadi proper." A native
surveyor who was sent up the river from Bamo, by Captain Sandeman, in 1879,*
found it much swollen at Mainla (Maingna), 25 miles below the junction, in the
nuddle of January; leaving the river and proceeding overland, in six days he
struck the Meh-kha, the eastern branch, a few miles above the junction, and found
it occupying only a portion of its bed ; he crossed it in a boat, proceeded north-
♦ General Report on Operations of Survey of India, 1879-80, Appendix, p. 32,
370
THE LU RIVER OF TIBET;
wards for eome dist-ance, and, returning in the middle of February, fotintl
t)»at tl^e Meb-kha had fallen, whereas the combined river at Mainla was more
flooded thiin when he last saw it. Captain Sandeman has therefore concliided that
tho Mali-kha is the greater river. But the flooding may have been due to local
rainfall at the sources of the Mali-kha, which we know from Wilcox and Macgregor
to be very heavy in the months of January and February. The native surveyor
w»s informed that the Meli-kha becomes flooded in April ; thus, as all the great
rivers of India w^hich rise in Tibet or in the Himalayan monntaiiiB begin to be
flooded by the melting of the suows in April, the Meb-kha may very possibly be
the Irawadi proper, and the continimtioE of the Lu.
7. The Ea^ertir Basin of the Yaro^tsfinpo.^'Vf hen Pandit Krishna found him-
self unable to make his way to Assjim through the Mislimi country, be turned
north wank from Sama, and procj3eded up the Rong Thod valley of Western Zayul
to the Himalayan ranj^e, which he crossed at the Atagang pass ; tlience cout inning
northwards for about 150 miles, he passed through the districts of Nagong and Fashu
to Lho-jong, and then, travelling westwards for about 200 miles, he passed through
Pemba and Arig to Lharugo, ITiroughout this distance his course lay over highly
elevated plateaus, nowhere below, and In parts much above, 11,000 feet, which
constitute the eastern and northern borders of the eastern basin of the Yaro-tsanpo ;
the bill ranges which define the water-parting lay in some parts on his right hand,,
in others on his left. Leaving Lharugo he found the hill ranges treoding south-west
through Kongbo — in general parallelism with the Ninchen-tangla range, between
Lhasa and the Tengri Nur — down to the channel of the great river, where they face
spurs from the northern slope of the Himalayas, tho two together forming the
ixirtals of the eastern basin. Down to this ix>int the general course of the river for
many hiindi^l miles, from its sources in the Man asora war lake region, is a little south of
east ; but now it trends northwards and flows due north-east — in general pftralleliam
with the Kongbo hills and the Nmchen-taugla — for about 100 miles, when it turns
abruptly to the south; its course has been explored to Gia*k-Sindong(6000 feet),
about twenty miles below the bend, but no farther. Measurements of the dis-
charges of the principal rivers entering Assam from the north, and other collateral
information, conclusively identify it with the Dihong of Upper Assam, which ha&
l)eeu explored upwards to a point abont 100 miles below Gia-la-Sindong. Notking
is known definitely regarding the connecting channel, excepting that it must have a
fiill of about 7000 feet, or as much as the entire fall of the Yaro-tsanpo in a course
of between 900 and lOOO miles through Tibet.
Very little is known of the interior of this eastern basin, for Pandit Krishna's
route lay altogether outside it. Bat he fixed the sources of an important affluent
called the Nagong-chu (lit. Bbck-water), whicli rises near the Atagang pass ; it is
shown in his map as having its sources near those of the Sanga-chu on the cast, and
the HongThod-cbu on the south, and flowing westwards, and joining theyaro-tsanpo
or Dihong river* Needham'a Mishmis told him that it •* flows away west into the Abor
country," Its existence appears to have been known to Wilcox, who was told by a
Misihmi chief that the Dihong has two branches : '* one from or passing Lhasa, and
the other, the smaller of the two, rising near the heads of the [Lohit] Bmhmaputra,*'
adding that ** the Lhasa people on their way to the I^ama valley [Zayul] go up the
lesser Dihong, and cross over the snowy mountains from its source to that of the
Bmhmaputra." This lesser Dihong was described by the Pasi Meyong Abors to
Capt. Beresford in 1879 as ** the Kala-pani (lit. Black-water), which falls into the
DihoDg some distance in the interior of the hills;" and tltey also mentioned a route
iato the Lama country by following up the Kala-pani and crossiug the snowy ranges.
Again, Lumliug told Lieut, Bowlatt in 1845 that from the west side of the same
IS IT THE SOURCE OF THE IRAWADI OR THE SALWIN ?— DISCUSSION. 871
xnonntain from which the Brahmaputra issues, likewise proceeds the Dihong."*
Thus we have a chain of concurrent testimony to the flow of the Nagong-chu into
the Taro-tsanpoy and to an important route from Lhasa to Zayul following the course
of the Kagong. For the latter reason, it seems prohaUe that the junction is " some
distance in the interior," say a little below 6ia-la-Sindong, rather than immediately
above the point where the Dihong enters the plains of Assam, as shown in the
Pandit's map.
Other important rivers must exist in this basin of the Yaro-tsanpo, flowing south-
wards from the northern scarp ; and the Pandit's map shows one, the Daksong-chu,
as rising in the Arig and Lharugo districts, and joining the great river a little above
Gia-la-Sindong. The map of Pandit Nain Sing's last exploration shows this river
Tery similarly. But to its east there is a great region which is a blank on both maps.
We get some information about it, however, in the * M^moires concemant les Chinois *
and the Lama's map. The former mentions a Eang-pou river rising in the Tchouo-
la-ling mountains to the east, flowing southwards, entering the kingdom of Lo-ka-pou
(the Abors), and joining the Taro-tsanpo. The latter shows a Een-pou river rising
in the Tchamto mountuns, to the south of a road pasdng westwards from Lourond-
son to Choupatou and Tardson ; the two first places are obviously identical with
Pandit Krishna's Lhojong and Shiobado, and the third probably with his Alado.
This enables us to fix the sources of the Een-pou with certunty, and to see that the
river cannot pass near Sama, as supposed by the Bishop des Mazures {see Note 2).
Further, the Lama's map shows a river flowing from the Amdso lake to the south-
east, near the [Himalayan] water-parting, which may probably be the Pandit's
Nagong-chu, and is represented as joining the Een-pou near a town called Chourton ;
below this the Een-pou is made to flow for some distance parallel to the great
Tsanpo, and then both are stopped on entering terra incognita. Here the map says
" Unpeupitu loin de ce cote 8ont les/rontierea du Royaume d^Ava^ nomme Ya-oua-
Eoue ; * and this has probably caused some geographers to conjecture that the rivers
flow into Burma, and are sources of the Irawadi. The 'M^moires' say that after
passing into the kingdom of Lo-ka-pon-tchau [the country of the Abors], the great
river turns to the south-west and enters the kingdom of Ngo-no-te [now a part of
Eastern Bengal], whence it flows into the sea ; and this shows that among Chinese
geographers there were some, though possibly a minority, who had an accurate know-
ledge of the general course of the Yaro-tsanpo from its sources to the ocean.
After the paper.
Dr. J. Andebson said that his attention was originally directed to the subject of
the sources of the Irawadi about seventeen years ago when he was travelling in
Upper Burma with Sir E. Sladen on the first expedition to Western Yunnan. He
was at that time very much struck with the size of the Irawadi, and bearing in
mind the very limited geographical distribution assigned to it on the maps, he was
led to make inquiries not only with regard to it, but also with regard to the Salwin,
General Walker had stated that in the paper which he (Dr. Anderson) read in 1870,
he said that the Irawadi was probably fed by waters descending through the Tibetan
plateau and entering Burma by what was then known as the Eastern Branch, but
the fact was that he was very careful to guard himself in expressing an opinion as to
the branch from which the river got its waters. What he stated was that it was pro-
bable that some Tibetan river flowing down in the direction of the Irawadi might
^- See paragraph 20 of letter dated 2l8t June, 1886, from the Secretary to the
Chief Commissioner of Assam to the Secretary to the Goverument of India, Foreign
Department
372
THE LU KIVER OF TIBET;
be one of its ttppcr sources, Lut others might be branches of the Yaog-tse-kiang, and
the Irawadi drained that part of the area between Lhaasa and Batang, which had
prenonsly been apportioned to the Cambodia and the Salwin* In 1870, be regarded
the npper portion of the Sahvin as the source from which came tbe great body of
water which found its way into the Irawadi, and in a map wKicb he constructed
he drew the Sope river aii coming down from the SoutbTanga range. He waa very
much gratified to find that his view had received such ample verification from tbe
facts wbicb General Walker had brought before the meeting. There was one
important fact which General Walker had stated witb regard to the physical con-
figuration of the area between the Zayul basin and the meridional ranges to' the
east. Only one range of mountains intervened between the Lu-kiang and the Lohit
Brahmaputra, Of course, that was entirely based upon the survey of the Pandit
which he supposed was approximately correcL There was, therefore, no possibility
for another river to be introduce^ljljetween the Lohit Brahmaputra and the Lu-kiang,
When he was in Moulmein he made inquiries as to the dimensions of the Salwi% and
he ascertained from the natives that the river at that point, as General Walker had
stated on the authority of Loczy* the geologibt, had not a large quantity of water,
had not any eroding channel, and that it was a comparatively shallow river crossed
by a ferry-boat and also by a bridge. The facta that ho collected were verified by the
oiMervationa of Iioczy, He thought Geneml Walker had made out a very fair case
lor what was called tbe upiier waters of the Sal win not being the Sahvin at alL lu
the map that he (Dr. Anderson) drew he cut off the 8alwin alx>ut 150 miles north of
Moulmein, showing that he believed the district above belonged to the Imwadi.
The only way in which the question could be solved was by actual observation on the
spot, and by tmcing the Lu-kiang to its original source, but General Walker ha^^l
made out a strong case as to the possibility of the Lu-kiang fiowing down into the
Irawadi. If the Lu-kiang was proved not to be connected with the Irawadi, then
the immense rainfall at the northern portion of the Irawadi valley must be looked to
as a source from which that river derived its great mass of water.
Colonel Sir E, B» Sladek, having been called upon by the President to join in
the discussion, said that he rose with great diffidence, as he was present at the
meeting almost by accident and did not know until he entered the room the
subject of the paper of the evenings Dr. Anderson had read a paper in that
room some eighteen years ago on the sources of tbe Irawadi : he (Sir E. B. Slailen)
was present on that occasion, and was called upon to say a few words. He then
»aid, as he said now, that ho knew nothing definitely about the sources of the
Irawadi, though he was acquainted with certain peculiarities connected with the
rise and fall of the waters of that river in Its mid course. These peculiarities,
however, were too remote to throw any light on tbe veied question of the river's
sources. He thought General Walker had added a valuable link to the speculative
chain of critieiam, which seemed to prove that the Irawadi had a Tibetan source, but
he did not think the actual question would be aalisfaclorily solved, until an expedi-
tion had been sent for the purposes of special exploration and survey. There
was one point u|K)n which he might perhaps be regarded as an authority. Having
lived for many years ia Upper Burma, he thought he might say that the rainfall
there, and in the parts contiguous to the north, could not alone account for the
large volume of water which was carried away by the Irawadi.
Sir Thomas Wade said that, without having, like the Abb^ Desgodins, " a warm
comer in his heart " for this theory or that, it did appear to him that the new
conditions assigned by General Walker to the course of the Irawadi, would compel
us to ignore the existence of the Lung-ch'uan and one or two important streams
Wsides, which Chinese geographers kid down as rising in Tibet, and subsequently
IS IT THE SOURCE OF THE IRAWADI OR THE SAL WIN ?— DISCUSSION. 373
entering China, and which, if they existed at all, could hardly fail to be feeders of
the Ta Chin-sha Chiang (Ta Kin-sha Kiang),the Great Gold Sand River, otherwise the
Irawadi. The course of the Lu Eiang, or, as it is called before it crosses the border
of Tfin-nan, the Nu Kiang, is traced with apparent completeness from its rise in
Koko Nor, as the Sok, past Shobando in Tibet, which country it traverses under
various names until it leaves it as the Nu Kiang. Then, crossing the border land
of the Nu savages, it enters Yiln-nan as the Lu Eiang, and its course through the
three prefectural jurisdictions of Li-kiang Pu, Ta-li Fu, and Yung-ch*ang Fu is
described in the great geography of YiiD-nan with remarkable minuteness, until on
reaching the southern frontier of Yung-ch'ang Fu, it proceeds through the country
beyond as the Cha-li or Tsa-li, and becomes known to foreign geographers as the
Salwin. He did not wish to be understood to protest against General Walker^s
theory as unsustainable but simply to deprecate its immediate adoption.
Mr. Chab. H. Leppeb said his excuse for venturing, as an amateur, to criticise
the theories of one who has so recently held General Walker*s eminent and pro-
fessional position was this. Ever since 1878 he had taken a deep interest in matters
connected with this frontier of India. In the cold weather of 1881-2, when at
Sadiya, preparing to start on one of his little trips across the frontier in search of
information, he heard that the Abb^ Desgodins was on his way up the Brahma-
putra also in quest of information. The Abb^ Desgodins had lived for over a
quarter of a century on the Tibeto-Chinese frontier, at places not much more than
200 miles from our extreme frontier, and yet that 200 miles is still such an obstacle,
thanks to our Government, that he had had to travel thousands of miles, right
across China, down its coast, round by the Straits, across the Bay of Bengal, and up
the Brahmaputra, to reach the British frontier, at a point about 200 miles from the
point he had lived at in China. His visit was a chance of acquiring information he
(Mr. Lepper) could not miss. Telegraphing to his friends in Darjiling, the reply
brought the welcome news that he would reach Sadiya in about three days. On
his arrival he readily accepted his (Mr. Lepper's) invitation to accompany him for
a portion of his trip, and an extremely pleasant fortnight was spent together in
the dug-out canoe which served both for conveyance and for sleeping apartment.
Much of what the Abb^ Desgodins told him about Tibet has since appeared in the
Nineteenth Century JReview, They had with them works of reference to which
they constantly referred, both as a check and as a guide ; and whatever was written
in English, he having dictated in French, was read over to him for correction. The
notes so taken down can therefore be trusted, either as affording the Abba's opinion
at that time, or, as stating in other instances the conclusion come to after discussion
and consultation of references. It is true that all this happened before A — k's
return from his splendid journey, but he should advance noUiing here which can
clash with that authority.
The first comment in analysing General Walker's speculations — ^that expression
was applied with all respect^ was this. It appears that the lecturer has not
taken quite as much note of the monsoon influence as is necessary in drawing
conclusions as to the length of rivers by comparing their volume. He lays great
stress upon these comparisons of volume, and argues that because one stream may
contain less water than another at about the same latitude, therefore the former
cannot have a much longer channel than the latter. This, he (Mr. Lepper) feared, is
Iiardly an axiom. On the other hand, the consequence of a river being within the
monsoon influence is a very good reason why its volume should be greatly in excess
of that of even a much longer river whose course lies outside of the region of monsoon
influence. Coupled with this omission there is another : the area of the watershed
along the course of the rivers referred to — speaking now of the Irawadi, the Salwin,
374
THE LQ rJVEK OF TIBET:
and the Mekong m their upper waters — is never alluded to, yet this the lecturer, he
was sure, would allow to be an important factor in the speculation* With reference
to the region over which the monaoon is felt, the following items occur among the
notes received from the Ahbe Desgodina, " The limit of the region affected by the rains
of the Bay of Boigal is abont half-way between Tseku and A Tnn-Tzii, near the 28**
of latitude, Yerkalu is outside the area, and irrigation there is necessary* The fm-ther
south towards Yimnan,and the nearer thelrawadi the greater the influence, Menkoii
is outside the area, as U also the Lu Tse territory J* We all know that both of the
Irawadi branches are well within the area of monsoon influence. Now the Irawadi*s
western branch is stated by all our authorities as under 90 yards in width, and Major
Macgregor makes it " in no place over five feet deep.** Wilcox states that he was
" surprised to find but a small river not more than 80 yards broad, and still fordable,
though considerably swollen by the snows," These are details which guide us in
estimating the size of the eastern branch, which he (Mr, Lepper) ventured in 1882
to call the Irawadi Proper, and which may still prove to be so, though, in having to
agree with General Walker in turning the Song Kga Kiu of Tibet into the Bralima-
putm, one of his (Mr, Lepper^s) chief rea,son3 for giving the eastern branch of the
Irawadi the title of " Irawadi Proper '* baa been cancelled. Wilooi told us that
among the objections to assigning the eastern branch a very distant souroo was it»
want of ma;Tiiitude, for it is nU described as larger than the Kampli branch.
Major Macgregor reports that the Kamptis all seemed to agree that the Phungmai
(the eastern branch) was about the same size as the western branch, Mr. Lepper's^
own notes acquired from natives who had seen both, are to the effect that the
eastern branch is a little bigger than the western, and hence it is called, among
its Bumeroua aliases, Nam Kiu Lung or big Nam Kiu, in distinction to the western
branch or Nam Kiu, These details are very important^ aa going to show that the
two bmnches are much the same aize, at a point where neither have commenced
to rt^ve many tributaries. If they are so nearly the same size, how is it, if, as
the lecturer advances, the Lu, which is already a big stream in Tibet, and has a
course of 700 miles in Tibet before emerging from the Himalayas, how is it that
the branch receiving all this drainage is not immensely bigger tlian the other — or
western branch — ^ which ia not so favoured? and which cannot be so favoured ^
unless it has a subterranean course under the Lohit.
Taking up next the case of the Sal win as compared with the Mekong : — The Abbt-
Desgodins has crossed the two repeatedly — for ho (Mr, Lepper) hoped to show good
circumstantial evidence for atill considering the Lu and the Salwin the same river —
and he found between the parallels of 28° and 29^ that the Lu^r Salwin— is there
sensibly the larger river. That is a much more important fact than that Gill and I^oczy
found the case reversed 180 miles lower down, after (as in the case of the Salwin) one
liad been running in a necessarily very narrow defile between two high ranges for by
far the greater portion of its course, and ouisidt the monsoon area, whereas the other
had enjoyed a much greater (i*e. wider) watershed after reaching the monsoon region,
and had therefore most probably received several tributaries. If Ilerr Loczy found
the Sidwin to be only 80 jmce^s broad, and shallow, and if that is to be used as an
argument against the Salwin being the Lu, on account of the lattef s 700 miles in
Tibet, then that argument tells equally well against the Lu being the eastern branch
of the Irawadi, which » by all accounts, is about the same size, or not much over
80 yards in width, and shallow too.
Next as to tlie identity of name. General Walker lays it down that the Lu
cannot acquire its name from the country of the Lu tribe, which lies due south of
Bonga, and not south-west as shown on General Walker's map. General Walker a
experience of Chinese etymological idiosyncrasies, he ventured to think, is limited.
IS IT THE SOURCE OF THE IRAWADI OR THE S AL WIN ?— DISCUSSION, 375
General Walker evidently abstains from using na an argument the Chinese trait of
doing things, according to our notions, backwards. He (Mr. Lepper) had had several
years among the Chinese, and he thought that they are qiiite capahle of having
named this river liackwrards, so to speak. For the^e reasons : the Sal win is not only
called the Lu, but also the Lu-Tse^Kinng, by the Chinese, as stated on the Abbe's
m!*p. The Chinese traders ascending: it so called it from the territory of the Lu-Taes
from whence it descended into ihat no maix*« land to the north of Upper Burma.
Having begun by calling it the Lu-Tse-Kiang, the Chinese on reaching Tibet and
finding it called Nu> or, as it should be written^ Ngen, would be the very last people
to change their Lu into Ngeu, The Chinese play all kinds of havoc with Tibetan
Tiames, often approximating the Tibetan name to Chinese souuds, conveying a meancng
to Chinese eat?, quite irrespective of the original Tibetan meaning. They frequently
do not even attempt to approach the sound of the Tibetan uames ; as a case in point,
the M<5koDg is called the Lan-tzang-Kiang (pure river of the south) in Chinese, whereas
the Tibetans call it Da-Kin, and sometimes La-Kiu. There are many Tibetan
sounds which the Chinese cannot pronounce, and possibly Ngeu is one of these, and
they may have had an additional inducement to adhere to their name Lu, inasmuch as
by so doincj they would be following that which Chinese are bo tenacious of, their dearly
loved '* old custom.** Sometimes the Chinese try to hit the sound as nearly as they
can, and thus Gungra in Tibetan becomes Khong-la in Chinese, which has no mean-
ing, but IS their beat approach to Gungra. They have no syllabi© for " Qung,'' and
cannot pronounce r. As General Walker (according to a footnote) thinks that
an explanation given him by the Abb^^ (that ** Lu ** may be the nearetst approach
the Chinese can make to **A-nong,'' the Chinese language not containing the
syllable " Nong ^) can scarcely be considered lucid and satisfetctory, he (Mr. Lepper)
could give him several others, such m the case of the town Do (sometimes Ta-tsey-
do, Le» the junction of the Ta and the Tsey rivers) in Tibetan, which becomes Ta-
ts ien-lu in Chinese (the place where arrows are forged 1).
On one speculation he completely accepted General Walker's view — that of tho
Song-nga-kiu being one of the sources of the Brahmaputra, It would take too loijg
to repeat from his paper in the * Proceedings ' of the Asiatic Society of Bengal his
former reasons for drawing that stream aa a part of the Irawadi, but he must ask
General Walker to notice that there is a trifling error in saying that the Abbe'^s map
published by tho Asiatic Society of Bengal ia reproduced in the 2nd edition of
* Le Tibet.' In the former the Song-nga-kiu did not flow into the Irawadi, but, by
dotted lines, into the Brahmaputra. The new map in the 2nd edition of ' Le Tibet'
agrees with his (Mn Lepper s) in making the Song-nga-kiu fall into the Irawadh
Both agreed to make this alteration, &b they thought they had o:»llected sufficient
evidence of a kind to justify the change, as nobody at that time knew what A — k
has since brought to light, viz. that tho Lohit (i.e. the Brahmaputra) intervened.
Hence thay " corrected " what, as it happened, was correct inft> an error, not an
uncommon event in speculative geography.
He would now ask General Walker what we are to do on our maps with that river
up which those Chinese traduris mot by the Abbe have ascended, and which they
have called Lu or Lu-tse-Kiang, and which they have told him — this he (Mr. Lepper)
took from his notes — ^passes for four days' march through the territory of tlie Lu*
tses? In asking this question he must point out that Chinese traders do nat visit
Bor Kampti, a tract through which both branches of the Irawadi flow.
In conclusion : the Irawadi, although in full position for receiving monsoon rains,
and although it has a comparatively wide watershe«l, is only about 80 yards wide,
and shallow ; is it not much more probable then that it should have a shorter couiso
than a river conined in a gorge between two mountain ranges, shut out from the
THE LU RIVER OF TraET, ETC.
monsoon and from tributaries, and whick river k also 80 yards wide ? Is not the
latter'a only chance of attaiomg a volume equal to that of the Irawadi depeadont
upon its longer course ?
Though he had miide use of the identity of name in his argnmeot, he trusted he
had made clear that " the cAtV/ argument in favour of the identity of the Lu above
Bonga with the Salwin '* is not, after ail, this identity of name. And aa regards the
" still warm comer in the heart " of the Ahy Desgodins, which the lecturer appears
to think Is all that the Abb<3 has left for the Salwin theory, all he could say is that,
notwithstanding that the Abbe' had commissioned him (Mr* Lepper) to edit and to
translate *Le Thibet,' and notwithstanding that he had had two letters from him
wnthin the past month — one by last mail — ^he makes no reference whatever in eitlier
of these to any desire on his part to make any alterations in the text of * Le Thibet,*
as he would have done, he thought, had he been converted to the lecturer's views.
iVvk page 293, 2nd ed, * Lo Thibet*)
He thanked General Walker for his kind permission to make these remarks,
and he was sure they would be accepted in the spirit in which they were offered.
General Walkze said that Mr. Lepper had given the results of conversations he
had had with the Ahlxl Desgodins some years ago, before the travels of the Pundit had
been published ^ hut he (General Walker) had heard from the Abb^ during the last
few weeks. If the Abbe had said that the Chinese tracers from the south had
travelled up the Ln river, that would have settled the matter, but what he actually
said was that they had not told him that they had not done so* The fact was that
the French maps in the Abbe*s possesmon had biassed him to believe that the
Lu'kiang was the upper source of the Salwin. When he constructed his own map
he was 90 certain about it that ho wrote the name "Salwin" on the course of the
river high up in Tibet, Now, however, that he had got further infgrmatioD> ho
admitted that there was much reason to question the accuracy of hia early impres-
sions ; from the Chinese traders he obtained no information whatever regarding the
river; indeed they never told him that they had travelled np any river at all.
The Chairman (General R, Strachey) said the diBCUSsion had been very inter-
esting, but after all it was only speculative geography » The subject was one iu
which he personally felt considerable interest, having for many years past thought
a I good deal about Tibet His own disposition at the present time, with such
information as was available, was to aide with General Walker. The three great
rivers which flowed from Tibet, the Kin-sha-Kiang, the Lan-tsan^kiang, and the
Lu-kiang, were crossed in their upper jjarts by the Pandit Krishna. He crossed the
first at an elevation of 7700 feet, and described it as 300 yards wide, llic next he
stated was crossed by two bridges at an elevation of 9450 feet, and the Lu was said
to be 200 yards wide at an elevation of 7100 feet. As to the Kin-&ha*KiaDg there
was no possible doubt. Where Gill crossed the Kin-sha-Kiang on his journey from
Batang to Talifu and Bhamo he made it 200 yards wide. Then he crossed the
Ljm-tBan-kiang below Talifu, where it was only 60 yards wide, at an elevation
of 4000 feet Kext he crosseti the river which is certainly the Salwin, to which
he also gives the name of Lu-kiarag, by a suspension bridge, the stream l>eing about
70 yards wide, at an elevation of 2000 feet* The middle river of the three, where
crossed by the Fundit, seems to have been the smallest^ and considering what the
Salwin afterwards became it was rather curious that the third of those rivers
should convert itself into the Salwin, while the second became a far larger river,
the Mekong, The monsoon reachcil to the extreme northern part of Burma, and
made it very difficult to form any clear opinion as to the source from which the
rivers that traverse the country are fetl, based on their apparent size. It seemed
to him that as the Lu was relatively so deep in the upper part of its course, the
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 877
probalnlity was that it had its outfall at a lower level than the others, and that
there was a greater ohance of the waters of the Lu-chu discharging into the Irawadi
than into the Salwin. It was, moreover, extremely improhahle that a river should
have such a course as was marked out for the Salwin, coming down from latitude
dO^ to 25^ ahnost without any affluent at all, and confined strictly between two
mountain ranges.
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
Mr. Carey's Boute in Central Asia. — In the E.G.S. < Proceedings '
for January 1887, a brief note will be found tracing the explorations of
Mr. A. D. Carey up to the village of Chdklik, near Lake Lob, where
he spent the latter part of the winter of 1885-86. Information has now
been received from Mr. Carey, dated from Leh in Ladak (to which place
he returned near the end of April last), showing how the second year of
his adventurous wanderings has been passed. About the 1st May,
1886, a start was made from Ch4klik, with the object of exploring some
of the northern regions of Tibet, during the few months of summer that
enable such elevated and inhospitable regions to be visited. Mr. Carey
passed south across the Altyn and Chiman mountains, and reached the
foot of a high chain, which is probably the true Euen Lun. Here his
guides failed to find a pass by which it was possible to cross so early in
the year, and he had to travel a considerable distance eastward, through
barren and difi&cult country, until, at length, an opening was found
leading to the valley of the Ma Chu — the head source of the Tang-tse
Eiang. The Ma Chu seems to have been followed down until the main
track between Lassa and Eoko-nor was struck, when want of fodder and
supplies obliged the party to turn northward again, and recross the Euen
Lun by passes which General Prejevalsky and the Pundit A — k have
already described. Mr. Carey now found himself in the Tsaidam region,
and made an interesting round journey from a place called Grolmo
(where his caravan was, in the meantime, left to recruit), and back to
the same point. During this excursion a good deal was seen of the
nomadic Ealmuks and Mongols who inhabit the comparatively low-
lying valleys of Tsaidam. They seem to have been peacefully inclined,
but not over hospitable, and frequently refused to part with either food
or grain in exchange for money. Eventually, in the autumn, the
explorer made a second journey over the Euen Lun, and then again
turning northward, struck straight across the Tsaidam country and the
Gobi, to Sachau and Hami, whence he travelled to Urumtsi, in the
Tien Shan, now the capital of Chinese Turkistan. Here the party was
well received by the Chinese governor and despatched to Yarkand,
where it arrived early in the present year, and whence a start was made
on the 7th March for Ladak. From the few particulars contained in
Mr. Carey's letter from Ladak, it would seem that the obstacles he had
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES,
to contend with in exploiing nor them Tibet were snow, want of fodder,
and nmtinoLis i>Qny drivers. From Chaklik to the point where the
Lliassa track was strock, in Jul}', occupied eighty-three day^s, and during
this time no hnman being was inct with. A great part of the gixnind
traversed appeivrs to be new to geographers, both on this section of the
jounioy and in Taaidam; while Bomo parts of the homeward routo to
Yarkand are also, to all intents and purposes, new. In any case, Mr.
Carey and bis assistant Mr. Dalgleish are the only Englishmen who
have ever travelled through the entire length and breadth of Chinese,
or Eastern, Tnrkistan*
Explorations in the Island of Haman. — Mr. B. C. Henry^ the author
of * Ling-Nam, or Interior Arrows of Southern China,' informs us that
last year he mad© a second \4sit to the Island of Hainan, and raaile still
more extensive journeys than before recorded among the aborigines of
the interior mountain region, reaching the geographical centre of the
Lee territory, and demonstrating tho fact that this region, supposed to
be iinpasgable, can be traversed from east to west and from north to
south with coniparati%'o ease. We hope soon to receive from Mr. Henrj^
further details of his interesting journey.
Expedition to Kova Zembla.^ — M» Con&tantin Nosiloflf, the Russian
traveller and naturalist, informs us, in a letter written from Kazan, of
his intention to undertake this summer an expedition to Nova Zembla.
M* NosilofF has recently been engaged in exploring tho Ural Mountains
in order to find an easy route betwcjen the Petchora and the Obi. The
objects of the present expedition to Kova Zembla are (1) to prepare a
detailed map of tho coasts and the interior of the island ; (2) to study
the hydrography of the coast, and make observations regarding the
movements of the ice in the Kara Sea and in the straits leading into it ;
(3) to make meteorological observations, and to collect zoological and
botanical specimens ; (4) to study the ethnography of the SamoYedes.
Ho invites suggestions from specialists in theso branches of science
resident in England.
Eastern Siberia.'—At the recent general meeting of the Geographical
Society of Paris, M. Joseph Martin gave an account of his second journey
in Eastern Siberia, which extended over a period of nearly four years
(May 1882 to Jan. 1886). In 1882 he was entrusted by a Russian
mining company with a mission to organise and survey its mines in tho
neighbourhood of Vitim and Olekma, on the river Lena. Tho prevailing
formation of this mining region is slate, with iron pyrites and reefs of
(quartz. Tho workings aro confined to the auriferous deposits, the gold
being obtained in the form of spangles and nuggets at a maximum depth
of 170 feet. While the auriferous deposits of the Lena appear from the
fossil remains to be of the same age as those of the Amur, the former aro
found at a much greater depth than the latter. His mission with regard
GEOOIUrUICAL NOTES.
87t
to the mineB having been fulfilled, M, Martin determined to carry ont a
long-oheriehed scheme of exjiloration in the little-kno^vn ccmntr}* between
the Lena and the Sea of Japan, including the region of the Stanovoi
MouBtaiDS* The general direction of the march from Olekma, on the
Lena, was sonth-west, Six or eight raonntain ranges, ileniidod of vege-
tation, with watercoTirBes in the intervening valleys, were crossed
in succession, their elevation ranging from 1300 to 2700 feet. The party
at length reached Lake Nitshatka, where the vegetation is more abun*
dant* Several Boundings in the lake were made, which showed a depth
of 490 feet. The lake is fed by etreams from the lofty glacier-crowned
summits in the vicinity, and diechargee its w^aters eafitwards into the
Tchara, an affluent of the Olokma. Not far from the lake, to the south-
weat, the valley of the Yitim is separated from that of the Tchara by a
narrow ridge, w^hich was crossed by the party at a height of about 0000
feet. The crevasses of the glaciers on the northern sloi]>6 of the rang^
made travelling difficult. The flora, of which the traveller obtained
specimens, is quite alpine in character. Beyond Lake Kitshatka the
mountainDUB region is perceptibly more elevated than that previously
traversed. The party then journeyed down the valley of the Tchara for
about a months and crossing again the water-divide into the valley of the
Vitim, reached a plateau containing a series of lakes, the principal of
which is Lake Amadisse. The country between this plain and the Kalar,
an affluent of the Vitim, is drained by numerous tributary streams.
Although this was in August snow had faUen twice. In this region
winter succeeds summer very quickly. The transition generally takes
place between the 15th August and the 1st September. At the first
sign of winter the Tunguzes of the party began to get unruly, and were
disposed to desert. On the marshy plateau which commands the valley
of the Kalar the traveller discovered two small lakes situated at an alti-
tude of about 3000 feet, one of which is ctdled by the natives Dwajang,
and the other he named Lake Martin- The succession of tablelands be-
tween Lake Amadisse and Lake Martin are of slate formation, and rich
in mineralSt such as iron, copper, coal, and lead. The party then again
entered the valley of the Olekma, where the vegetation in the direction
of the Stanovoi Mountains is quite southern in character, and presents a
sharp contrast to that of the Vitira valley. After six months' toUsome
marching the foot of the Stanovoi range was reached. It was the inten-
tion of the traveller to cross the range to the south-east, near the source
of the Aldan, in order to explore the river Zea, but he was compelled,
through the insubordination»of the Tunguzes and the aj^proaoh of winter,
to tnm almost due south* Between the Olekma and the northern part
of the Stanovoi, and separated from the former by a ridge of 4000 feet,
I flows the Tunguir, an affluent of the Olekma, The Stanovoi range, in
the part visited by the traveller, consists of rounded peaks, covered with
forests of larches and birches* Here and there are summits, rising to an
No, VL— Jtoe 1887.] 2 e
B80
GEOGKAPBICAL NOTES*
elevation of from 4300 to 5000 feet, bar© of Tegetataon, and snow-covered
during part of tlie year. As far as explored by the traveller, the rang©
preeentfi a Ices accentuated relief than the watershed between the Oleknia
and the Yitim, The crossing of the Stanovoi jHonotains, wbich at that
point run in parallel chains, occupied, by forced marches, three long
days, and was accomplished without any gnide but the compass, and
under the most trying conditions^ the reindeer sinking three feet into the
snow. The traveller had constructed a number of light sledges, and
made some tongh snow-shoes for the men. The part}^ then debouched
into the valley of one of the upper tributaries of the Amur, where a snow-
8torm» lasting ten days, overtook them. After marching parallel with
the Amazar, they eventually reached the banks of the Amur itself in
November 1883 (nine months from starting), at a village thirty miles
from Albazino* From this point, accompanied by a devoted Tunguz, he
made his way to Kara, and aftenjv'ards returned to Irkutsk. In the
spring of 1884 he set out on a joiu-ney t^ the mining district of Trans-
Baikal, on the Mongolian frontier, whence, after a stay of six weeks, he
travelled east to study the region between the Argun and the C bilk a.
llavLug reached Albazine a second time* he travelled along the south
ttlope of the range into the upper valley of the Zea, which is mountainouB,
picturesque, and covered with beautiful forests. The route along the
Ijase of the Stanovoi was difficult, owing to the " tundras." He spent
some months on the Amur and the Ussuri, and he ascended the latter
river to Lake Kbinka and Yiadivostock. The itinerary of his route be-
tween the Lena and the Amur, carefully prepared by the traveller with
the aid of the compass, has been submitted to the BuBsian Staff, and the
results will be incorporated into the map of Siberia.
Norwegian Coast audDeep-aea Survey in 188 6.— Captain Fabricius,
director of the hydrographic^l section of the Geographical Survey of
Norway, gives the following particulars as t^j* the results of the hydro-
graphical researches earned out by him on the north-west coast of
Norway last year i^— The part of the coast sounded off the islands of
Eiist and Yiero (lat. 67-68"^ N.» and long. 29-3lf E.) is of far more
interest than those of previous summers, as we have here, in all proba-
bility, disoovered the end of the bank projecting from the west side of
tlie Lofoden Jj^lands. West of the two islands named a large sub-
marine plateau w^as sounded during last summer, having a fairly
gradual slope southwards, a sharp fall towards the deep ocean j and
finishing towards the west. This plateau forms probably the southern^
most and widest part of the bank: which pit>ject8 from the Lofoden and
Yesteraalen Islands, the width of which appears to decrease northwards,
so that its edge or fall on the ocean side is here closer to the coast.
About four geographical miles west of the islands of Uost and Varo
the depth was found in several places to bo 60 fathoms, and the
bottom sand. Inside this line the bottom is uneven, with several
*
GEOGHAPHICAL NOTES.
881
smaller elevated banks, called by the fiBLerm^n sJcaUer (yhells), whilst
westward it gradually elopes UDtil 3li miles wvst of Rost the depth
IB 100 fathoms. Here the depth niiiB nearly north to south for a
distance of about 40 miles, or from south of the Skorava^r Inland (the
southernmost islet of the Rtist group) to the southernmost point of
MofikentesQ (Lofoden Islands), whence it trends eastwards. As regards
the flouthcm part inwards about four miles south of SkomvaT, and aa
regards the northern t^iwards A'aeru, until 28 or 30 miles west of that
island, it curves north-eastwards. Inside this line the bottom is uni-
formly sand, and sand mixed with pehldes and marine shells. Further
westwards the plateau conti lines with a still gradual, but somewhat
t|uick0r, increase of depth, until 60 miles west of Eost it attains a
depth of 150 fathoms. The nature of tlie bottom still remains the same
until the last-mentioned depth is approached, when the lead brought
up sandy clay. This spot is on the edge or fall of the bank towards
the deep ocean, as a few miles furtlier west the depth inoreascH rapidly
from 150 to 300 fathoms and more. About 70 miles west of Skomvon*
a depth of 438 fathoms, \%ith clay bottom, was found, and a sounding
of a series taken by the Norwej^an North Atlantic Expedition, about
five miles further west, showed a depth of 5D3 fathoms and a similar
bottom. Korth wards the 150 fiithom iino of depth and the lines of
depth beyond^running nearly parallel for 200, 250, 300, and 350 fatboms
— apx)roach eomewhat to the above-mentioned 100 fathom line, which
seems to imiicato a sharper fall ocean wards outside the latter depth
as we proceed northwards. In fact, the soundings already known
on the sea-border of the Lofoden and Yesteraalen Islands and the
coast of Fiiimarken tend to show, as stated, that the edge of the
, JliOfoden bank lies nearer to the shore further north* On the coast
atfiide the islands Langu, Andii, and Senjen, for instanoe, it will most
probably Ijc found 15 to 20 miles from the shore, and here the face
appears to be sharper too. North of Senjen the edge seems to sheer
straight northwards and recede more rapidly from the shore, whilst it*
declivity also seems to decrease. Preliminarily a chart has l»een drawn of
the part of the Sea of liost and Yaerii sounded last summer, the scale being
1 : 200,000, which has been reproduced by lithography. The chart forms
an addendum to the coast-chart ** Fleina and Landhoniet to Tranii," which
latter has been revised and brought up to date. It is expected that next
autumn there will be sufficient material in hand to issue a fishing chart
of that part of the bank referred to lying outside the Lofoden Islands.
Swedes on the CongD*T-According to the Journal of the Swedish
Geographical Society, 33 Swedes have up to the present been employed
in the service of the Congo State. Of these, ten died there through
acoidents or from fever, six were compelled to return home on account
of ill-health, seven returned on the expiry of their threo years' service,
whilst ten are stUl in Africa.
2 K 2
382
GEOGRAPHICAL K0TE5.
Lunda,— Captain Curvalho, the leader of the recent Portuguese exiic-
dition into Lunda, in a letter to Senhor L. Cordeiro, pnbliBlicd in tlio
* Boletim ' of the Lisbon Geographical Society, gives some interesting
infonnation on that Central African empire, which supplements that
previously obtained by Br. Pogge, Dr. Buchner, and others. Lnnda,
according to him, is quite a recent creation, reaching hardly back to the
middle of the last century. The country on the Ealanyi and westward
to the Kasai, the present centre of the empire, was originally inhabited
by the Tubungo* ruled over by numerous petty chiefs (muene-u*ata or
muftta)j the principal among whom was the Tatnko (father) Shakala,
Thia Shakala quarelled with bis two sons, Kinguri-a-Konda and Yala-
ia-Kouda, and with the consent of the other chiefs appointed his
daughter Lufebi to succeed him. The Lukdno, or bracelet of human
sinews, was consequently entrusted to this lady, as a B}Tubol of her
sovereign power, until she should make choice of a husband. One day
a hunter (Kibunda) appeared on the Kalanyi, and won the lady's
favour. His name was Ilunga, and he claimed to be the sou of Kasongo
a ix>werful chief of Luba, whose eldest son had succeeded to his father's
possessions (in Eua) whilst a younger son, Kanyoka, had established
himself to the north-east of what subsequently became known as Lunda.
When Kibunda Iluuga married Luezhi his elder brother sent him a
battle-axe (ki-uLui-ka), as a legacy from bis father, and this axe stU!
forms one of the royal emblems of the empire, Ludzhi's brothers left
the country in disgust, and having aesisted the Portuguese in their wars
against Jinga (Matamba) finally settled down as chiefs in Kasanje and
the Songo countries, where their desceudeuts still reign.* Kibunda
Hunga, at the suggestion of one of the chiefs, assumed the title of
Muatyan-vu-ft, or, in full, " Muata-yanvua man gaud a niawoso nimitondo
nimanita niatuendi a kua Lunda," which means " The Lord who owns
all the land, all the rivers and all the people of Lunda,** Lunda itself
lieing interpreted to signify ** union " or " unity." The royal household
i>f the Mu^tyan-vu-a rivals in numbers that of any European sovereign.
The foremost place in it belongs to the Lukoquesha, the ** person who
looks after the mu(ityan-TU-a,'* She is the modem representa-tive of
Luezhi, is appointed by the Muata among the members of the royal
family, but cannot apparently b© deposed by him. Her influence is
very considerable. The other leading ladies of the oourt are the Muari,
or first wife, the Temeinj^o, or second wife, the Ngiua muana, or official
" mother " of the Muata, and the Ngina ban^a or bis ofiicial " sister/*
* It i& difficult to reconcile these native traditiouB with the Portuguefle historical
rtM'ortla. Wara agninHt tb© TRTioua mlera kno^n as JiDga t?cfo wnged repeatedly aince^
15110 uiid Tip to 1745, id wlilch year Bartholomew Duurt© de Sequeira. the Capitfio mor,
captured the Jinga'a cApital. CaTazzi alrefldy incntiona a chief, Cassange Cun-
tjuinguri, who iRras born in 1608 near Amhuctt, and who niaj have been a ^od of the
Kingtiji who came out of Lunda.
'
GEOGBAPBICiX KOTES.
Among the councillors (kanapuube) the chief places are accorded to the
Muitio (or attorney- general), the Snana mulopo (official ** brother "), the
Mona uta (" master of anus '*), and the Mmiri muiBhi (cook). The chiefs
who now rnl© over the Yarious districtB of Lunda are stated to have
:goiie forth from the original seats of the Tnbungo, and claim kindred
with Luc^zhi or llunga. Senhor CarvaUio furniBhes pedigrees of njatiy
of these chiefs, but we are able to mention only a few of tho mora
prominent. Among Luezhi's relatives were Kahungiila of Mataba;
Bimgulo or Buhungulo, a son of the former^ now represented by Kilwata ;
Kahungula ka Mazai^ another son, now represented by Sna-Muteba, the
seventh of the line ; and the Muene Puto Kasongo, on the Kuaugo. The
raoBt prominent among the members of Ilnnga's family was Ka-Shina
Mayoj who assumed the title of M&yo munene, and is now represented
by Ka-Mwanga, the seventh of the line* Bumbo Attema took up his
quarters in the Mungo mountains, to the cast of the Kuanza, in lat. 1 1° 8*,
and became the head of the Makioko (plural of Kioko), who have thence
spread to th© north and to the south. Kinbundo, Katema, Eabinda, and
others became rulers of the Makoza (a nickname) ; several Luba chiefs
(Mukelenge mutonbo) went to the norlh-west ; others, including Living-
d tone's Shinde, were sent to the south, whilst the Muata Kazembe was
despatched to the east.* If Senhor Carvalho's information can be trusted,
only fourteen Muatyan-vu-a have ruled since th© foundation of the
empire. The firat of these was Kibunda llunga^ the husband of Luezhi,
.and founder of the empire. To him succeeded five sons {Xoezhi, Unbiila,
Muteba, Molazhi, and Mukanza. This last was on th© throne when
the Pombeiros passed through the country in 1806, Yanvo, the seventh
ruler, was a son of Noezhi. To him succeeded his second son, Kikomba,
the first son, Ditenda, having died. Noezhi II. was a son of this
Ditenda, and ruled when Gra^a visited the country, iu 1849. Molazhi,
a son of Noezhi II., and Muteba, the youngest son of the same, succeeded.
Muteba was a popular rulen He appointed Kata, the chief w^ife of his
brother Molazhi, to be his LukoquC^zha. He ought to have been suc-
ceeded by hia son Unbila, a favourite of the people, but the Lukoquezha
intrigued in favour of her son Shanama, who rose in revolt, and was
eventually chosen by the tdiiefs, in 1874. This ruler is described as tho
" Terror of Lunda." He was murdered, and was succeeded by his sons
Kibinda Ditende and Kan-ga-pua, neither of whom ruled long. The
sceptre was then offered to Nbala, a son of Muteba, but he declined the
proferred dignityj stating that Kivunza YSinvo, the brother of Shanama,
At that time (1885) living an exile near the KuangOi was the rightful
heir. Eventually Kivnnza Ydnvo was raised to the throne, and it m
with him that Senhor Carvalho has concluded a treaty which places all
Lunda under the protection of Portngal.
• Tho foorlh Kttzembe was on the throne in 1792 wben Dr* Laoerda visited tho
^country, and tlie fifib (Ampata) in 1S31,
884
GEGGKAPHICAL NOTES.
PatagOEia.—Liou tenant C. Moyaiio, who in 1877 wiUi M, F, Moreno,
made a journey into the south of Patagonia, accomplishcHl some time ago
anothc^r excursion into the country south of the Sauta Gru2» the results
of which he has reported to the Argentine Government, Tbe i^artj-
numbered thirteen » and the explorations lasted about two and a half
months. Lieut. Mojano had, on his previous journey, visited Lake
Argentine and ohBorved in tho south-west of the same an important in*
flux, which he Buppoeed connected the lake with a smaller lako basin
lying to the south. In 1880 the Chilian explorers, MM. Ihar and
Hogers, visited this small lake and found it had a discharge to the west
into the Pacific, but no conneetion with Lake Argentine, In his last
journey, M. Moyano has been able to confirm his previous observations
as to the union of these two lakes. The subjoined details will show
that this latest expedition into the still imperfectly known region of
Sonth Patagonia, has rendered considerable service to geography. The
traveller has explored the sources of the GallegOB and Coile rivers,
determined the geographical position of the two large lakes which lie
in the extreme west of the Ooile valley* Besides ascertaining the union
between the two lakes referred to above, he^^has cctllocted numerous data
from which it may be concluded that all the lakes of South Patagonia
are connected with each other. With regard to the character of the
country, the coast zone is covered with a sparse herbaceous vegetation
which is suitable for rearing cattle, sheep, goats, &c,, and stands the
climate all tho year. Some small tracts in the river valleys would be
suitable for agriculture on a small scale. The centre of the country is
less fitted for cultivation, owing to the poverty of the soil and to tho
severity of the winter, which is increased by the heights of these table-
lands and their distance from tho coast. The mountainous region on
the west which begins with the first span] of the Gordillera, is distinguishod
by dense and endless forests of antarctic beeches and by a herbaceous
vegetation which satisfies the utmost Memands of cattle-breeders. The
traveller found traces of coal and iron in several places, but unfortu-
nately very far from the commercial routes. Other minerals he did not
meet with. The following are the positions of three mountain peaks
which he named:— Monte Andrade, a mountain 5808 feet high,
situated in oC" o8' 30'' S., and 73^ 5' W» ; Monte Guido, 4200 feet,
in 50^ 5' S. and 72'* 25' W, j and Monte Guerrico, about U95 feet,
in 50^ 48' 30" S. In connection with this exploration we may
announce the publication of Fontana's map embodying the results of
his expedition to the Chubut River,* which will cause much alteration
in existing maps of Patagonia.
Tierra del Fuego. — The expedition of M. Eamon Lista, which
started hi November last on an exploration of Tierra del Fuego,
♦ "Proc. B,G.S.,* ISSe, p. 527.
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
386
returned to Buenos Ayre§ 5n February, having been completely
BUOceBsfuL The current number of Petermann's * MitteOungen ' con-
tains a letter from M. Riinion Lista to General B. Mitre, in which ^*^
gives some account of the results of hiB journey. The Argen-
tine (Eastern) part of the island, which he explored for 440
miles from Sebastian Bay to Le Maire Straits, is more fertile
than the Patagonian coast zone bounded by the Chubut and Cape
Yongfrau, and has, in the traveller's opinion, a greater indus-
trial future before it. The generally accepted reports as to the
inhospitable, barren, and even uninhabited state of the ialand may, he
Bays^ be true as regards the western half of the same, but are certainly'
false regarding the eastern or Argentine portion. The latter part of
Tierra del Fuego may be divided with reference to its physical features
into two sections: (i.) that extending from Cape Espiritu Santo to
Cape Pen as, where the country consists of valley a more or less broad,
covered with moat excellent fodder, and watered by rivers of consider-
able volume, and partly navigable, which spring from a enow-covered
rang© of mountains (Bartholome Nodal) in the interior. This
district ©njoya an agreeable temperature ; the little snow which falls in
winter soon molts, (ii.) South of this region, which may be called thi>
"meadow country," extend the antarctic forestg. Here the fodder
vegetation is not so rich, and the streams have leaa water, but th© land-
scape has a more beautiful appearance, reminding the traveller of
Switzerland, with small lakes, high mountains, and enchanting woods.
On the third day, after leaving the south-west corner of Sebastian Bay,
th© party reached a river flowing into the Atlantic Ocean, where they
came suddenly upon some of the natives, Tbo latter were full of mis-
trust, which, however, was speedily removed when they heard the word
" brother." Thia form of salutation was evidently unaccustomed to
them ; they are usually greeted with a volley of musketry by the
Chilian miners of Useless Bay* Some of the Indians approached the
traveller and commenced dancing and leaping. Most of them were
young men, tall and powerful, with their faces painted red ; a few of
them had their arms and hands coloured white with clay. All wore
their hair cut behind and anointed with an unctuous red pigment.
They wore no clothing except a kind of cloak made of the skin of th©
silver fox, and strange to say, this was worn with the rough side out-
wards. The traveller observed many huts deserted for the moment, and
dogs in them, some with long shaggy hair, others dark coloured. H©
desired to appropriate one of these animals, which had the appearance
of a sheep dog, but an Indian interposed aiid made him understand that
the dog belonged to him, and had been trained to hunt the guanacos.
Besides his geographical studies th© traveller made numerous scientific
observations during his journey across th© island, more particularly of
an anthropological and geological character. His notes on the land an
38G
OB1T0ART.
Boa fauna are in tores ting. He measured many of tho iiativeSi and has
prepared a vocabulary of the language used l>y tlie nativee of the forest-
regioQ between Capo Penas and Polycarp Bay. The aDimal kingdom on
land is represented by some iiiamraalia, guanacos, and foxes (Oani»
mageUmdciis)^ the latter very much prized on account of itB beautiful
skiUi Among the rodents, which on fortunately are far mora numerous
than the mammals, may bo mentioned the Cienomys ' magellanicitg^ a
veritable land-plague, which infests the northern part of the island. Of
birda, which fill the woods and river batiks, the traveller mentions the
parrot, duck, snipe, plover, wild goose, ibis, *tc. He also gives examples
of the sea fauna. — The finding of gold on the shores of the Straits of
Magellan has quickened the general interest in the island of Tierra del
Fuego, and an expedition under the Argentine governor, Captain Taz, is
announced to start into the interior.
Doe Hariano Felipe Pa? Soldan,* our Peruvifln Honorary Corresponding
Member, died at Lima on tbe 3l8t of December, 1886, ftged 65, He was bora at
Arequipa on August 22nd, 1821, of a family of old Castilian deaoent,
;inii was one of several talented and acx^omplished brothers* . His nephew, who
writes under the paeutionym of ** Juan de Arona,** is a poet of such eminence as to
have been elected a CorreapondiHg Member of the Kojal Academy of Spain.
Mariano Paz Soldan was educated at the College of San Geronlmo in Arequipa,
whence be went to study law at Lima, and nt an early age he was called to the
Peruvian Bar, In 1844, when still vei-y young, he received a judicial appointment
at Caxamarca ; and bis attention was early turned to the condition of the prisons,
and to the best means of ameliorating the wretched fate of condemned persons in
Peru. To this pbilanthropic work Paz Soldan devoted the best years of his life.
In 1853 be undertook a journey to the United Slates with the aole object of studying
the iTenitentiary system in the United States. It was necessary that be should not
only inform himself respecting prison discipline and treatment, but also that he
should become thoroughly acquainted with the designs for penitentiaries, and even
with questions relating to building materials, and the organisation of labour. For
the subject was new to his countrymen, ah ovo usqne ad mala, Paz Soldan
devoted his whole energies to this self-imposed task, and some of bis results appeared
iri bis ea dies t publication, * In forme sobre las Penitenciarias* (1854X Two years
afterwards tbe building of the penitentiary at Lima was caramenced under his
supei intendence. It was completed in about six years, on the most improved princi-
ples, and is a noble monument of the patriotism and enlightened perseverance of
our late Corresfondiug Member. Paz Soldan afterwards filled the jx)sts of Minister
of Fubhc Works and of Education in seveml administrations, and was for many
years the Director of Public Works in Pem* Several of the most useful undertakings
and improvements in that country, during tbe last quarter of a century, have been
due to the energy and zeal of Mariano Paz Soldan,
By C. R. Bfarkham, c.B., rR,8., Secretary.
OBITtTARY.
387
In the midst of his active public life, oar Correspooding Member devoted much
time to ihe elucidation of the geograpli y of his native country. Geographical studies,
and the gradual collection of a valuable library, were the occupations of his leisure.
Yet be deroted much time to our science, with valuable reaults. Hia first geo-
grapbical work was the * Geogralia del Peru,' completed in 1861, of which the
physical sections were written by hia brother Mateo ; and this was followed by the
Femvian Atlas, a work which involved immense labour aod research, and called for
great tact and iierseverance in its execution, Senor Paz Soldan made ii special
journey to Paris to arrange for the engravitig and publication. But his most impor-
tant geographical work was the Geographical and Statistical Dictionary of Pera,
which was completed iu 1877. It is due to the present Admiral I>oa AiireUo Garcia
J (xarcia, that tlie int4?rest he has always shown In the promotion of geographical
work should here be recorded. When ho was Minister in 1875, he spontaneousily
gave orders that the dictionary of Paz Soldan should be prioted at the eipeose of
the Peruvian Government. These works of Paz Soldan, presented by the author,
are now in the Society's Library, aud are indispensable to students of South American
gecgraphy.
Don Mariano Paz Soldan was president of the Commission for demarcating the
boundaries of Peru. In 1879 he originated, and his son Boa Carlos became the
-editor, of a literary periodical called the JltmBia peruana. Mainly consisting of
essays on historical, antiquarian, and philological subjects, some of them of great
value, tt abo contained original geographical information. The deplorable war with
Chile brought the literary iaboura of its contributors to a close. Many of them
ionght, and some fell in defence of their country.
The last years of Mariano Paz Soldan were clouded by the misfortunes of hia
beloved fatlierland. The Chilians occupied the capital of Peru, and these conquerors
behaved in a way which, fortunately, is without a precedent among civilised nations
4Uid in modem times. The building of San Marcos, the most ancient university in
the new world, was converted into cavalry stables. The public library was used
p4U a barrack, and its priceless treasures were thrown Into the streets or sold as waste
paper. The persecution of all distinguished Peruvians was rigorous and unceasing
during the occupation. Many old and respected civilians were seized and sent
prisoners into the south of Chile. Paa Soldan took refuge in Buenos Ay res, where
the illustrious entile was received not only with respect, but with the most cordial
hospitality. The University appointed him to a professorship, and he endeavoured
to requite the kindness of his generous and uympathising hosts by working at a
geographical dictionary of the Argentine Republic. He also wrote his history of
the war with Chile, during the period of his eadle. The return of our Corres|)onding
Member to his ruined fatherland was clouded ,with sadness. He saw much of the
work of a lifetime destroyed by the desolating war, and he could not hope that he
would be spared to aid in the labour of reparation. He may truly be said to have
<lied of a broken heart.
Paz Soldan was the John Howard of Peru. He was a man of broad views and
enlightened sympatMes. As a statesman he originated and matured nomerous
useful measures, both in tbe departments of education and of public works. As a
^eogmpber he was indefatigable, and enthuBiastlc. He was a good linguist and an
able scholar. In these respects his accomplished son, Don Carlos Paz Soldan, h
/ollowing in his respected father^s footsteps*
{ 388 )
REPOET OF THE EVENING MEETINGS, SESSION 1886^7,
Mevenih Me^tingy May \\th, 1887. — F. GaltoNj esq., f.r.s,, Vice-
President, in the Chair.
Elections, — Louis Adh3\ Esq, ; TAos. Morris A$h^ E$q, ; MtlvUl Beachcmfi^
E$q, ; T, J, Beard ^ Esq. ; Joseph GUI, Esq, ; John GUlespis, Esq. ; liev. J no, Oxley
Oxland; Alfred Eadfordt Esq,; Eenry R^yndd\ Esq,; ItolH^rt Davits Iioberts,
Esq, ; Willium Wariy, Esq, ; Bev, O, K Wndhorne,
Tbe paper read was :^
** Explorations in Ceatral Africa.** By Dr. Junker*
Will be publifilied, with map, in the July Namber of the ' Proceedings.'
PEOCEEDINGS OF FOEEIGN SOCIETIES.
GeograpMefd Society of Paris, April 1st, 1887 : M. Jannsek, of the Insti-
tutej in the Chair. — Among the works presented at the meeting were the following*:
^-'La FroDliire 8mo-atinamite^' by M. G* Deveria, contaioing some interesting
geographical and ethnographical information, and a work entitM * La Tunisie,* by
M. J. L, de Lauessan, embodying the resolts of personal observations, M. Costenoble
a publisher of Leipaig, forwarded the Gennftn edition of an important work by
Dr. A* Voeikofp the eminent Rnssian professor, entitled *Die Klimate dor Erde,*
which was published in 1884 in the Russian language. The first volume of this
work treats of the general conditions which influence climates, and the second volume
deals with the different climates of the globe. Among the chapters of special
interest we note one on river and lake systems and their dependence on the rains
and snow, two chapters devoted to the consideration of snow and ice, another on the
question of surface temperatures, and the final chapters of the first jmrt which treat
in a general way of the distribution of heat, atmosphenc pressure, and rain over the
earth's surface. Excellent maps and diagrams acxsompany this valuable book. —
A long manuscript was received from M. A, du Paty de Clam on the Basin of
Central Tunis in ancient times; it was stated that this paper would be inserted
in the Quarteriy Bulletin. — M. H* Duveyrier sent a letter relative to a passage
in his report laat year on the journey of MM. Capello and Ivens, in which he
discussed the important difference in the position of the cataract of Mambirima
as given by these travellers and by M. Giraud. The letter concluded with the
statement that the explorer who should fix definitely the position of the south-
west point of Lalce Bemba aod survey the first 100 miles of the course of the
Luapula would render a real service to geography »^ — The Secretary read a letter from
M, Frederick Schwatka to M. W. Huber, which was dated 9th March, 1887, from
Rock Island. The writer promisixl to send the Society one of the first copies of the
report on hia second journey to Alaska, which would lie ready in about a month.
He mentions several inaccuracies in existing maps of Alaska ; not one of them shows
the Grandidier glacier. — The Minister of Public Instruction forwarded a letter from
M, A. Thenar, dated 15th January, 1887, from Lagunillos on the frontier of the
Bolivian Chaco. The march from Padilla to Lagunillas had been attended with great
hardiihipB, owing to violent storms and the ronghess of the paths, where such indeed
existed. Notwithstandtng some sickness the slaflf of the expedition remained intact.
M, Thenar intended to start from Lagunillas on the following day with provisions
for three months. — The Chairman announced that the Academy of Sciencca had just
voted the sum of 40/. to M, Virlet d*Aofist, one of the oldest members of the Society,
■
PROCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES.
889
to enable him to continiio his reaearcliea oa the causes of cartliqiiakes.^Tlie General
Secretary called the attention of the meeting to & large wall-map of Brazil, exhibited
in the hall, which had been prepared by M* E, Levasseur, of the luBtitute. Thidi
important map had taken three years to execute, and waa practically a map of South
America. It waa prepared on the scale of 1 : BflOOfiOO and contained all the latest
information.— ^M. Ch, Kabot announced to the Society the departure of M. Nossiloft',
the Russian natumlistp on a new expedition to Nova Zembla, and stated the objectti
of the mission. He further made a comuiuni cation on the subject recently Ijefore the
Society, of the transport of matter by icebergs. Ho supported the opinion of
M. Thonlet that the banks off Newfoundland were not formed by the deposits from
icel)crga. He referred to the results of hiA own observationa in Spitzbergen in 1882,
when he had occasion to study the ice in the fiord s.^ — M. Dutreuil du Rhins then
read a paper * by M, Gouin, French resident at Son-tay, on the Upper Red river
and its two affluents the Black and the Clear rivers. M, Baudens, who travelled in
the country in 1885-6, then made some remarks with reference to the course of the
Black river, which according to M. Gouin, has a northerly direction , M. Baudens'
survey shows it as flowing west or north-west. Some discussion followed upon thia
point. M. Baudens gave further some interesting notes on the navigation of these
rivers and the physical features and present state of Tongking. — Mt Gauthiot,
General Secretary, announced that the Commercial Geographical Society of P&ris had
jnst awarded its chief medal to M. OouiB in recognition of his valuable work in
Tongking.
April 15th, 1887 : M, Febdixaxo de Lesskps, President of the Society
in the Chair, This w^as the first General Meeting of the year. The Chairman
said he would, on the present occasion^ dispense with the usual opening speech from
the Chair, as there was so much business to be got through ; he would therefore at
once call on M. E. Cbtteau, scrutineer, to announce the result of the election for the
Bureau of the Society for 1887-8, This was stated to be as follows :— Prcsiilent,
M. Ferdinand de Lesseps ; Vice-Presidents, Geneml Perrier and M. Bouquet
de la Gryej Scrutineers^ M, J. Renaud, and M, G, Demanche; Secretary, Dr.
Henri Labonne, M. W. Huber then read, on behalf of the commission on the
prizes, the general report upon the awards. The reading of the special reports
upon the latter followed, — After M, W, Huber had given a resume of his
rejxirt upon M, Rouvier*a explomtions on the Congo, the Chairman presented
to the representative of the Minister of the Navy, on behalf of M, Rouvier,
the gold medal which hail been awarded to the latter, and in doing so alluded
to the great value of the astronomical determinations made by the traveller of
points on the Congo, thereby completing the information given by previous
explorers, A resume of M, F. Schrader's report upon Dr. H* Fritsche-a travels in
the north of China having been read, M. do Lesseps remarked ui»on the fact that
the traveller's work was purely scientific, and therefore perhaps loss known, but not
less valuable; the gold medal, he said, would be transmitted to Dr* Fritsche through
the Bussian ambassador. The third presentation was to M, J* Martin for his
journeys in Eastern Siberia, uim)u which M. W. Huber reported. The Chairman in
handing the gold metlai to M, Martin, referred briefly to the important l>earing of
his work on the geography of the country between the basin of the Lena and that of
the Amor* M, A, Grandidier, then rmd a resume of his report on M. A. Aubry*;*
journey in Shoo. The traveller was not present at the meeting, but M, de Lessep:^
took occasion to remind the Society of the value of M, Aubry^s work in C4jnnection
with the geology and geography of that part of Africa during his three years* mission
* This paper will bo injierted in the Quarterly Bulletin.
39a
PROCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES.
there. Gointe H. ie Bozemont then read an abstract of his report on Major Greely*s
expedition to the Polar Eegioas^ whereupon tha Cbainnaii handed the gold medal
(La Roquette Prize) to M. Vipjnaud, Chief Secretary of the United Sutes Legation,
adding that the Society desired thereby to express it« sense of the value, not only of
the discovery of naw territory, but of the scientific observations made at Fort Conger
during more than one year, in the highest latitude in which such obserifationa
had ever been recorded* The Chairman then prt^sented to M. A. Germain, on behalf
of M. A, Grcnier, the gold medal awarded to the latter for his cartographical works,
and finally handed to M. C. Forel the Jomard Prize for his biography of the
French traveller, Tavernier.— In conclusion, M. Joseph Martin read an account of
his travels in Eastern Siberia.
Geographical Society of Berlin, April 2nd, 1887 ; Herr W. Eeiss in the
Chttir,^ — A letter was read from Lieutenant Wissmann, written from Luluaburg, in
which he reported that he had, in July 1886,accompliiihed a journey from Luluaburg
to the Buahimaji, the most westerly of the three river sources of the Saukura, and
had penetrated into the centre of the land of the Baluba people. West of the
Lukulla and of Ten da Mota, the character of the country changes completely ; here
the true Baluba ia met with. The " gallery woods " along the rivera and streams
disappear altogether. The grass prairie reigns supreme, only on the summits of the
steep watershed are a few isolated trees to bo seen. Here and there large stony
plains are met with, and hills covered with rolled granite, from which an extensive
view may be obtained — a rare experience in Africa. The natives dwell in farms
composed of from four to ten huts in the middle of their fields. They are a fine
race, nearly all of them are six feet high, and large-boned. The iKjpulation is
exceptionally dense, nothing but fields and farms everywhere. As regards its pro-
ductive capacity, the country is much too thickly peopled, and nowhere in Africa
had M, Wissmann seen such a swarm of human beings. The land is too poor for
the cultivation of tropical products* Game naturally cannot exist in such a thickly
peopled locality. Of domestic animals, the traveller saw sheep, goat^, dogs, and
fowlsj but no pigs. ITie nights were very cold, the minimum temperature recorded
being 6*^ to 7*^ C. The bearing of the natives was insolent in the extreme. They
know how to use firearms, which they have obtained from the Bihe traders in
exchange for slaves, and they attempted to stop the advance of the expedition. In
Bushimaji, hostilities broke out in earuest This circumstance, coupled with the
fact that the time which the traveller had allowed for this excursion Jiad nearly
elapsed, induced him to return to Luluahurg, after he had had one skirmish with the
natives. From this point, he started in October on a new expedition to the north-
east, with the intention of crossing the Sankuru and Lukenje, then, travelling along
the watershed which divides the small tributaries of the right hank of the Sankuni
from those of the Congo coming from the south, he will endeavour, by keeping to
the east, to strike the Upper Congo in the vicinity of Nyangwe. He expects to find
in this very little known diatrict a series of lakes similar to Lake Leopold. With
regaid to the Baluba people, Wissmann has come to the conclusion, that all the
branches of the race, even the most strongly mixed, prefer to call themselves pure
Balubas. They exhibit a coutemptuoui r^ard for their neighbours. The pure
Biiluba live on the Upper Lubilajsh, The Bashilangc and Bakete, who inhabit
the country to the west of these as far as the Kaasai and Lulua, are, in
^Mssmann's opinion, a mixture of tha Baluba from the east, and an aboriginal
race who resemble the Batua, and apparently called themselves Bashitange.
The traditions of the present Bashilange point to an immigration hither from
the south-east. In consequence of mingling with the aborigines of the land
FMCiiaaAms of fgbks »rnnR 391
tKej Imre 6ssEaaxitti wwa^r dam ibe pov Bulski txpe* ah^cndi tknr
stOl speak t&e BiIbL^ iKBrnee. is ihm tecisxy, t^ MMmcd rdbkm of Uk
ori^malBatBa se awiiiae to W feoid^as beck mam Iiiiimi ^ofn^stfj aixed.
In tiiB reipect, &ie Bm£ji%« iaSet fivn taie tnbes iirng to tbe wxlb, nek at Um
»^V"^-, F— HLi, Wax^oBA, aBoai^ vkocL traces of the Batata exisi, becasK tbaR
tnbea bai« alvm oaiji^Bd ^ke Bataa. aad keep r'niiiaNii *o ae{«nte tbu titer
aerer eater one of tz/Kj basa. Afioorosz to TwiUfiiin WsaBaaaoi, tke Baiaba
appear to exttsad mhem iht aoBBb-vcrt flboe of Lake TaagaBjika. aad also to
Uraa and the Hoa^ Ltlkt, Ike nfitag familT of die MaaSa YamTO i& tke ooaatrr
of Lnada if a2a> of Banska csigiB.
Dr. F. SjULAax, <f Bade, tkea ^ire a tvt oear and aagjertita sketck of Um
geaenl geogiaffecaLfyfrlnrMof tkeaiaadof OeTka, Daria^ kia ttaj of tao ad a
ikalf Tears in tke 2&aac, Sor tke fwapuae of makaag amkigBcal aad aaiskiopokgical
obaerTat>:tts, be, ia oci&paiiT aitk bia eoaaa, Hecr P. Saraca, nade aine excanaaas
ca foot in dlfleteot &ecagpf fpcaa tbe cealre of tke idaad. Tbe greater part of tke
iriasd if a plaza, cleiaieii bet little abow tke aa kill ; oal j in tiie an^tliefa part a
Taat aHraatazn gjoa|]^ eocipcaBd cf cneiB and gianitp, aad cioa aad witkrazsadpeakiy
riaea ap like a j;Sg*j*tjy vaUyaDd ^lidei tke ^^«*^^ aa fivas itaciiaiate it oaBoemad,
into t«t>part»--4kea^eit and aoBtk-veatbaaad, the noftk and eaitdnr. Tkeaaatem
half paytirrpatea in both the sMaaoca niai^ vkile the aorfk laitfia part, dmii^ the
aoath-weat mooaocQ, viich issndatea the aocdh-aeateni lepoa and the nKamtaina
with nin, expeneaccf ahncat eaatznaallT a dear dqr and great diongbL In eoose-
cpeaoe of theae ecEkditkos the vhde of the aocth-aactcni half of tlK idand ia thickl J
popalated and coltnnatad, ahcnndmg vith eooo pafana ad rirr frldt , wki^ eztead
in the fana of teracea, fig ap the lanaatain akyea, Ike higher paita of die moan-
tains aeie. antQ within oompamOTclT leeent times, dotiied with the mcs; loxaiiaat
tropical faeats ; bat aiaoe it was foaad thirtj jean ago that cofiee thiires here in a
1 finally able aianner, the printeral faeats bare crerjwhere disappmrpd, and the
***^-**^ liriag in them faaTe beea didodged, ao that at the preaeat time it is obIt in
steep mines, and on the heights between 5000 and 7000 feet, vheie the oold slonns
pteieat the cnhiTation of cofiee, aad tke Gorenmient has protected a portion of the
forestsfromdestrnctioDythat aanallpaitof theTirginwood8renam& Ihesegkomy
grej-green woods are tctt diSierent from thoae of the low plains. The txaea are
ooiered with long white lichens and gold4irown moas. Magnifioent rhododendiODS
and tree-fernf , 20-30 feet high, form the diief adornment of theae high monntain
forests. For the rest, tbe whole mocntadn range was oorered with coffee j^antatioDS
imtil the year 1870, when ther were mifortnnatdy infected with a fongns. This is
tbe reaaon that to-day nearlj all the coffee plaiitationii baxe Tanished. and in their
pboe pbntatiotis of tea and cocoa bav« ^imng up. These, howerer, arp not ao pro-
fiuble, and, moreoTer, hare already began to be visited by disease. Thus G^yka
will not in the near fntoie be so prosperous as in earlier days. The broad plains of
the dry portion c^ the island are oorered with endless leafy woods, the trees of wbidi,
as regards their exterior, are rery similar to thoae of a European wood, with the ex-
ception ci the leares, which are hard and wanting in saccnlent Teitlaie. Scattend
freely abont are trees stiange in appearance to European eyes, such as the Fkms
indiod, oi which eren a small wood often fnrmshes a specimen. On the t^"k« of
the riTers are foand gigantic trees from 25 to 60 feet in circomference, entwined with
climUng plants. The greater the distance from the riTers the sfarser the vegetation,
and in the rery dry district of the north, where no rain ialls for seven months, one
finds only lowbrashwood and prickly eophor^nas, in form like diandeliefs. Thefotast
districts arc now aknost nninhabited, especiaUy in the sonth-^ast, wbeteas formerly
they were in parts thickly peopled. In the northern districts the traveller maete with
892
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PtJBLICATIOXS.
extensive mias ; large towns witli temples and jialaces are to-day orergrowm with
forests. The answer to the question, liow was it possihle for these dry regions to
have boen bo densely populated, is to be found in the remains of the gigjaotic water
reservoirs, which, the Cingalese kings constnicted for the cultivation of rioe-fields.
Some of these reaer^oira date hack from the first centuries of our era. When the
Cingalese people retreated southwards before the invasions of the south Indian races,
these immense works fell into decay and became the home of the crocodile. The
attempts of the Eoglish Govemmeot to encourage rice culture by utilising the old
reservoirs^ and to make Oeylon aa regards its supply of rice indei.>endent of lodia,
have up to the present time been attended with hut little suceeas. Instead of human
beings the jinimal world has taken jiossession of these vast solitudes. The elephant,
the wild buffalo, the wild boar, the bear, and great troops of monkeys people in
immense numbers this region. Although in the large towns such as Kandy,
Colombo, &c.f the population is very mixed, in the country districts it is strongly
divided. ICorth and east of the great foreab-belt the Tamils live, west and south of
the same the Cingalese, while in Oie woods themselves dwell the aboriginal in-
habitants, the Veddfls. AVestof the forest country we find the Buddhist religion
find civilisation, and the Aryan language, w4ule t^ the east the Bmhman religion and
Dnividian language provaiL In this connectioa the analogy with India is strikiog.
For there also we find in Hindustan for the mofit part an Aryan territory, and in the
Deocan a Dravidian, divided by the broad wooded mountain chain which runs from
the Gulf of Cambay to the east. The Cingalese inhabit mostly the fertile districts
of Colombo. The Tamils have their centre on the island of FaflTua to the north of
OeyloUi and from that pioint extend along the east coast and the northern part of the
west coast. On these dismal sandy coasts they are very scattered. The pure
Veddas now scarcely number 20O0, and disease is rapidly thinning tlieir ranks, so
that in GO to 100 years not a single pure example of this worthy race will in all
probability exist. They have recently been settled by the Government in small
colonies, and can hardly now be called " Kock Veddas." Until quite recently, how-
ever, they lived in hollows of the rocks ; the chase was their only occupation, and
leaves their only clothing. They had not even learnt to use stone for pointing their
arrows. They hunted chiefly monkeys and devoted themselves to fishing. They
are very low in the scale of civilisation and have hardly any wants. Their appear-
ance compares in a remarkable manner with that of the Australian negroes.
NEW GEOaHAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
(By J. BcoTT Eeltib, Lihrartan b*o,s.)
EUEOPE,
ConiLelli Bobert. — St. Kilda and the St. Kildians. London, Hamilton, Adams &
Co. ; Glasgow, T, D, Morison, 1887 : sm, 8vo., pp. 170. Price 2a 6^. [Presented
by Mr, T. D. Morison.]
Consists of a series of articles which originally appeared in the Glasgow
HerahL The author gives a general idea of the present condition of things in
St. Kilda, which appar to have very little changed since the time when Martin
visited it, nearly 200 years ago.
ASIA.
[Smitllf AgEeflO— Tliroiigh Cyprus. liondon^ Hurst and Blackett, 1887 : 8vo.,
pp. ix. and 351, map and il lustrations. Price 15*. [Presented by the Publishers.]
Contains an account of a tour round the coast of Cyprus by two English
SXW GSOGRirmCAL PCBUCJLTlOiSSw S^
lacks. Amrcz: ibe piaoes Tisatad are Lar&aca* Fjnui^ccsta, Tnlc^ovx Krtbenit,
XiDoaa, Krirnia, ligfkm^ xht Meaasaeries cf Kt&o and Chnr^iiv^riaatfisa,
FwpktM mna UaoasaoL IlieR it aa aoocnat of t^ hisswr of Uiei^asii^ abo of
itapRidiKis. Tiie ajjfKs^dix ooBtaiDa diacBSBkKis OQ tbe dii^^
TcHfle, LJSirj SiAard IBftrU-^oamils kept in HT^enbid, Kasbmir, Sikkini,
and XepiL Edited with IntrcdckcikB br his son, Biduiid OuriEac Temixle. 1U|:«
a&d CnstzatkcsL Loodoo, Alkn & Ce^ 1SP7 : 2 xxsk. ^ra ; t\>L L pjw xxviu
aDd 314 ; toL iL pfv. Ht.] and 303^ ftiw 32*. rPrtsented by the poblishersw]
Tbe niic>3s of these Tohxmes «cs3sts of joomals kept by Sir Kichaiu Temple
wiiik Besadeoi at Hyderabad in 1867, and during excursaoos whidi he made
into Kas^.Tnrr, Skkim. and Nepal at xanous penod& To these Captain Temple
has wzitten elabcvate and instzuctiTe introdoetioDs ocotaining, amoi^:st other
thinzs, ixsefnl sammaiies of the geogn^y of the Tahoos le^ons with whidi
the TolTimes are ooncefned. There is a good sopply of maps, and the illnstia-
tiocs ir^od Sir Hichani*s own sketches fiinn an attractive feature.
AFRICA.
[CcBtnl AfrieaJ — A Jaorney to Lake Xyassa, and Visit to the Magwangwara and
the Sooroe of the RoTnma, in the year 18S6, by the Bishop of the Univo^ties^
IGssoQ to Central Africa. Zanubv, Printed at the UniTcrsities* Mission Press»
Kinngani, 8tq^ pp. 49.
[Be Brasa.] — ^Texte Public et Cooidonn^ par Xapol^on Xey. Conferences et
Lettres de P. SaTorgnan de BrazB^ snr ses Trois Explorations dans LXHicst
Afhcain, de 1875 i 1SS6. Paris, Dreyibos, 1887 : 8to., pp. ii. and 463* Price
lOfirancs. (2>«^«.)
This is a coUection of the rarions addresses which from time to time have
been deliTcred by M. de Brazza, and of the letters which he sent home daring
the omrse of his ten years' explorations in the region of the Congo and Ogow^.
The Tolame will be useful as giving in a handy form details oonoeming
De Brazza's work, the letters especially being of value, as conveying observa-
tions and impressions while still fresh. The editors seem to have done their
work jndidoasly ; there are numerous illustrations and several maps. M. l)e
Brazza*s own narrative will, we are informed, soon be begun in the * Tour du
Monde,' and will ultimately be published in three large volumes by Hachette
& Co.
AMERICA.
Chamay, Ddsir^. — ^The Ancient Cities of the New World ; bdng Travels and Ex-
plorations in Mexico and Central America, 1857-82. Translated from the French
by J. Gonino and Helen S. Conant. London, Chapman and Hall, 18S7 : royal
8vo., pp. xxxii. and 514. Price 31s. 6d, [Presented by the Publishers.]
M. Chamay gives here thb results of his many years' explorations among the
abundant remains of the ancient civilisations of Central America. The volume,
moreover, includes many sketches of the modem aspects of town and country iu
these regions, and whatever opinion may be formed of the value of the text, the
numerous illustrations of the remains explored by M. Chamay will be welcome.
M. Chamay acknowledges his indebtedness to our Fellow, Mr. Maudslay, whom
he met at work in the same field, and the detailed results of whose labours will
be welcomed by those who value accurate observations and scientific deductions.
While there is much to interest and instract in M. Cbamay's volume, its value
iis a contribution to a solution of the Toltcc problem, and the early civilisation
of America, cannot be regarded as high. In his prefiace he indulges largely in
si)eculation on problems which many competent students deem insoluble with
our present data. He believes that " the autochthones of America** came from
394
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS,
the East: and amoDg tLe arguments adduced in support of tlii.^ view is tht>
following t— *" The ^vord ' Lacondon/ which is the name of a tribe in Central
America, ii alao, according to Dr. Neis, that of a race in ludo-China, who spell
it * Lah-canh-<3ong.* *" The English of tliis abridged translation is often extremely
awkward and almost unintelligible* It is scarcely credible^and oertaioly not
creditable, that a work like thm should be puhiiahed without an index,
[ColleUB, J, HJ— Guide to Trinidad. A Hand-Book for the use of Tourists and
Visitors, Port-of-Spaiu, Mnir, Marshall, & Co., and Ford & Co., 1887 : Sto,,
pp. 240, map and frontispiece. Price 4*.
The author who was for nine years a resident in Trinidad^ has here brought
together a deal of useful information regarding the island, including — its Early
History and People; its Soil, Productions and Climate ; how to reach Trinidad,
Cost of Living, &c, j description of Port-of-Spain, the capital Details are also
given of excursions to varions parts of the ishmd.
AUSTBALASIA.
Chalmerfi, James. — Pioneering in New Guinea. London, Religious Tract Society,
1857 : Svo., pp. xii. and 343, Price IGs, [Presented by the Publishers.]
Mr. Chalmers's long and useful work in Kew Guinea is well known, and
he himself gave some account of ft at a recent meeting of the Society (see
Proc, R.G.S,, Feb. 1887, p. 71). In the present volume we hare no connected
narrative of Mr. Chalmers's routes and journeys, but rather a series of episodes
or sketches embodying a good deal of geographical and ethnological information.
The first chapter describes a trip to Oiabu and Mekeo on the west of the
Owen Stanley Range, where Mr. and Mrs, Chalmers delighted the natives by
singing their national song, " Auld Lang Syne," which was rej^eatedly encored.
In the second chapter are some nseful details concerning the native trade. The
third chapter also deiils with trade, describing a trading voyage in native boats
along the Gnlf of Papua, in which Mr, Chalmers took part. Chapter iv. deaU
with various tribal wars, and chapter v. with peacemaking. In tlie next
chapter is an interesting account of two journeys into the south-cast interior of
the taland. Chapter viii. contains matter of considerable ethnological value-^
being answers to a long aeries of questions on the habits, customs, and beliefs
of the Motu and Motumotu tribes. In the next three chapters we have
accounts of various tripj mode by Mr, Chalmers on board H,M. ships, one m
company with Commodore Erskine, when the Protectorate was proclaimed, and
another with the late Sir Peter Scratcliley, Chapter xii. deals with the location
of native missianaries^ and in chapter xiii. we have an account of various
New Guinea celebrities^ while the concluding chapter describes a variety
of intea'stiug episodes. It Is instructive to be told that in ail Christian-
ised islands in the Pacific, May continues to be held as a great month of
feasting and rejoicing, as in heathen times, the ceremonies, however, being
now adapted to Christian uses. The map from the February number of the
' Proceedings ' is reproduced, and the numerous illustrations are appropriate and
wtU executed,
GENERAL, '
Geographifiches Jahrbnch. Begriindet 1866 durch E, Behm, XI. Band, 1887,
Unt^T Mitwirkung von O, Drude, G, Gerland, J, Hann, H. Hergesoll, 0. Eriim-
mell, E. Rudolph, L. K, Scbmarda, Fr. Toula, herausgegeben von Hermann
Wagner, Gotha, Justus Perthes, 1887 : 8vo., pp. viii. and 496. Price 12 Mark,
The new volume of this invaluable seiia! begins a new series, the fresh
starting-point being marked by a change of form from the old small quarto to a
respectable octavo. The size, moreover, is greatly increased^ the present volume
embracing only what was the first part of previous iseues^the separate sections
of geography, or the various geographical sciences* The subject of the Physics
NEW MAPS.
of tbe Earth is this yeflr treated by two you 113: Strasahiirg specmlitts, Br. Her-
pe«oU,aad Dr. Rudolph. l>ofe«,sor Toulu, of YieQDa, brings togetbor new data
on tbe geognostic stract-ure of tbe enrtbV flurfkoem various rpgiona. The ever-
"wideDin^ subject of fteennography 19 dealt with by Dr. 0* KrUnimel^ and Dt,
Hann devotca 74 pages to receot advances in Geographical Meteorolo;jy.
Aljout .^0 paacB »re given to the geographical Distribution of Pknts by Dr,
O. Drade, ana the sftme space by Dr. L. K. Schmarda to the Distribution of
Animftls. Eecent Ethnological research h dealt ivith in about BO pages by Dr.
G. Gerland, of Strasaburg, Prof. Warner is to bo congratulated on the improve-
nieDt« which he has introduced into the JahrhucK
NEW MAPS.
(By J. CoLi:^, Map Ouraior^ R«o^.)
EUBOFK.
Alpea* — Karte der zwiacben Lech und Inn und die Uingebnng von MUnchen,
▼on L, Wenng, Scale 1 : 400,CMXJ or 5 -5 geographical miles to aa inch. Wiirz-
hurg, Staudinger. Price la, (Dulau,)
BrailBSchweig. — Special karte vom Heneogthum — nach ofiBcieUen Quellen
bearbeitet. Wolfenbiitte^, Zwiealer. Prico 2«. (DuluuJ)
Bentachland und die Alpen. — Profit durch in' der Linio de« 10*«> LUngen-
grades ustlich von Greenwich auf die incridionale Kriimmung des Meereaniveau^K
aufgetragen im einheitlicben MassTerhaltnisse von 1 : 600,000 or 6*S geographical
miles to an inch. Der Bogen des Meeresniveau's ist mit Boniitzung dea im
glcichen Verlago erschieneoen Lingg'schen Erd profiles konstniirt. Yerlag nnrl
AusfUhrang der k, b. priviU Kunstantalt von Piloty 3^ Loehle, Milnchen.
Price 3s. (Bukiu,)
In the construction of this profile Be^Bel's geodetic elements have been used.
The meridian for which this section is given is the tenth east of Greenwich,
and extends from 45° N, to 54® N,, thus passing through Cremonai Ulm,
Eibelfttadt, Bischofsheim, Northeim, and Hamburg, and showing the profile of
jtbe Alps of Bergamo, tbe Bhmtinn Alp«, Bregenzer Wald, and the Algau Alps.
The projection shows the true curvature of the earth^s surface when drawn on
a scale of 1 : 5O0»0OO, and a chord of the arc subtended between the adopted
latitudes serves further to illustrate tho subject. In one corner the j^eatest
elevations in each of the principal divisions or the world are given on the same
iioale^ as well as the ocean depths. This section is well drawn, and should be
very usefid in conveying to students a correct idea of the earth's form, and
tbe proportions which the elevations and depressions on its surface b<»r to the
wbole mass.
ORDNANCE aXTKVEY MAPS,
Pabtlcfttlocki l«nad Sarins thm mmtk <tt April ISST,
l.inoll — General Mapa :^
LxGLAVD AKD WxuLa t Kew Soflc*. Ko. SOS, wlQi HIUa, tngraTed, tx.
6 -Inch— County M«[i«:-»
K^oLASD AifD Walm t Bedfordsliire : w 9.W. ; it. Brecknockaliire : 13 9.E- 14 S,F1.
15 SAV., 19 S.E.. n JT.W., S.W., S.E., 27 N.W.. as N.K., S.K., :m S.W, 36 S.K. ; u. each. Cam-
bridir©8hire: i S.W.. a ti.K. 4 N.R. SW., 1 S.E, ii N.W., S.VV.. n a.K,, 33 NE,. S.W,, S.fcl,
46 N.W, N.K.. S.W,. S.E. ; u. each. CardlimnsMre : 4 N.W„ aw„ s.K.. is N.W.. n N.K.,
S,K.; u. fSkch. Oarmarthanihire : « S.W., 10 SJC., ib aK, ; it. e»cb, Cornwall : 64 N.E.
ATkd &£, on ooe »bret ; If. Derbyahire: 41 S.E.; i«. DevonsMre; 20 n;w., NK., s.K,,
•SK^EL. S.W., m N.E., 127 N.W*. N.KL i U, tmch. Doraetshlre : 0 N.W. and S.W. on on©
■bitt, •>'>:., aR, lU N.W., 13 aK^ U&K, ISN.W., N.E*8.W„.S.E,, is N.VT„aW., I« N,E.;
Ij. •aeh. Glamor gttnslilro : as; It. ed. Qlonoeaterahire : 3e K.W., 46 S.W.» ?r N.E. ;
U. inch, Hereford»hlr« : ac H.HL, at &IS., ss S,W,, aE,, 39 HW. ; ii.«*cii. Hantinffdon-
•hiT« ; 33 N,E., s.W^ 2H N. W„ N.F^ S.W., S,E. ; li, etch. I^iceaterahlre : 3 i^W.. % S.E..
Ko. YX.^JvsE 1887.] 2 y
396
KEW MAPS.
43 &E.J II. eacli. LmcobiBliir^: 21 N,W^ tii N,E., se N.E^ 113 S.W*; It* each* Merioneth-
ijiire: 14 SvW,„ *<:i! s i:, ; ijf, lacii. Momnoutlishire : 30, ^. 34, 36, mdA as, on uoe Eb<ret}
ai, <kJ. *ach, MontKomerFBhlre ; iT N.W. ; i*. Korfolk : 43 Jf.E.. 66 S/K,. 6( N.W.,
S.E., Ts SM.; u. uracil. Shropsliii'e ^ :« N*W.; tr Somereet&hlre : t^o SkW., m N.E,.
; 87 S.W., 91 N.E., It. each. StalfordBitiro : 36 N.E.; i*. Suffolk : t^ NE.; u, Warwiok-
sMrei » N.E,, li B.E,, IT N.W., K.K.. 28 N.W., 33 N,K. ; 1*. eAcJi. Wiltshire : it ; 2*. eu.
SS-lmch'-Pariiii M*pt:^
l-lKfiLAKD AKP Walks: Cambridareahlre : XU. 5, 4«.; XU. 14, LVIIL ll. 13» 3*. eacli ; XXXrV.
9, XXXV. », U, XL!L 3, 6, 3i. each. Devoashire : XXJX. 16, XXX, 16, l, LIE 16,CX1L 11, 12,
Hi. CXJII. 1, 2, fi,«, 9, 13, u, 3*. each. G-loucesterahiro -, VIII. 16, 16. 3*. mch. Are» Book:
Welfurd (part of)» ii. Herefordshire: X, ifl. 4r; XVil. 7, 6i.; XVIIE u» lo, ii. 12, 13,
XIX. 0. 10. Ki. 14, XXIV. *. h XXVll. 6. 9, IQ, Js. Mcli; XXVIJ. 13, 4a. ; XXVIL IC. XXXIV. ll.
3j, Lieicesterahire : XXX VI t. 3. u. Llne&lnHhlre : V. 4» VI. 6, xr. 1. 4*. each; XL 3,
8. 9, 10. 11. 12, 13^ 14, IS. Zi. each ; XVIIL 4* 4ii XVIIL 7, XIX. 3, 4, 13, 16. M. p«cli ; XXVIL 3,
4f.; XXVIL *. 7. 3i, tack; XSXVL 1, 4j.; XLIL 12, fit.; XLV. 1, 2. §, 7, lAlL 3. ns. each : Ltll.
7, 41.; LIJL P, 13, 14, Ifl, LXL 9, 11. U, 3*. ; LXI. 10, 4*. j LXII. 3. 11. 12, IS. LXXVIL 2* CLIL 1,
3f. eacb ; CLIL 3. 4, U. «Adi ; €L1[I. 1, ^ 6, 3t. emh. MontffOmervBhlre ! TV. 14. V. »« 13,
IX 1, 6, 6, JX. 11, IS, XIIL &. 10, XtV. a, 10, XXL 2, S. XXVU. II, XXXOL I. % la, XXXIV. 10. 11.
3*. eAcb. Korfdlk : IIL 7 and ll on oi]« sht^t. III. 13, 14, 16, V. 16, VIII. 1. 6, 0. 12, 13, 14, IX.
7, 9, 14, 15, X. 11. 15, XV, 16, 3*. each J LXXVllI. 7. 6#. 6*i An-a Book* : Oltter next Yarmoutli,
Bibb, Or«at Varmouih (pan <jf), Gorlc«U>ii (p«rt of), Halveriiate, RojdoD. lliiiiham and ditto
(detaclit'd), Scole; it. «adi. If orthamptonahirei UL 1, 3t.; III. 3. 4, 6, 4#, cAch j IH. a, 3#.;
IV. 1, 4t/i IV, 6, 6, 3t. each; XLV. 1, 6, 4t.; XLV. 10. £^. Area Books; Lfrt'at Huughtoo, Little
Moupfht^jii^ Stonrtuiit It. eacli. Nottme-hameblro : VIL 12. st. Shropshire: Area Booka:
Aihfurd liowdler. Aiihford C»rKimll, iKii-t*}!!!'. if. i?*ch ; Bitterley. It. (Sd. ; BorMtun. Brmnfidd^
Bockiiell (part of}^ Bnj-ront, Caynbata, It. each \ CtnnbuTy. It. &i, ; Clnngranfotij. £a»t HaiBlet.^<Jrc«t^
UoptOQ Ca*tle, It. «ad] ^ Llanr&lr WHt^rdine, li. ; LuinlWEiMloe Nonb (part of). Ludfiml, Ludlow
Cutte (Lndlow), Na*h, Onlbury. RlcbanJ'B Ca«lle, St. Ijiwrenc* (Liidlow) li. eath; Stanton
Lw:ir, It. (ki.; 8u>w. li. ScmersetaMre ; LXII. 9, St.; LXIIL 9, 4f.; LXI HI. 7, LXXJV. 3.
7, 8, 3f. each J LXXIV. 9. il, 4t. te^ln LXXIV. 12, 3i.; LXXIV. 13, 4t.; LXKIV. 14, 3t.i LXXIV,
1&, 4«. StaffordBhire : LXII. ifi. LXI II. 6, w, LXVJI. 4, at. each i « J( VH. 8, lit. ed.; LXVIL
14. «f. W. Arii Botikfl: ItUAball, If. Buffolk I IL t, flt. 6J. ; LXXXVL S, 3f. Area Boak«i
H<^lugiield, Bildeiitoa. Uradwell, BrcUingbam, Buxhall, GaziU-y; HrvAt Yorriiuiitb (part laf). Hiiitte-
«liani. llktciiam* K<?ntfoTd, KtiUeboftDJi, Lavenbam. Mii^MUou, :Nwij;;^ing. ^orltju, Soutbolt. I'resttjn,
T]i<tri»e Worieiut, WaiUfbani, Wf-nbniii Parva, li. each. Warwickshire : XXXV. 9, XXXiX.
«, 12, 16. 16. XL. 6. t, 31. etich ; XU 9, 14. 4t. each; XLI. 1, ^ 3t. mcb ; XLl. 6, U. ; XLI. «, Lill.
15. Ii6. 3t. 4?acb, Area Book: Aiberstone upon Stour, It. Wiltahire I XXXL IS, 1ft. aoel
XXXVnU-— 4, oil otifi abeet, XXXV. e, II, 16. XXX VL 7. XLIV. 3, 4, 7. at. e^cli; XLIV. 11, 4f. ;
XLIV. 1% la. XLVil. 3, 4. 7, a, 11, 14. XLYIIL I. 6. 3t. each. W^orceetershlre : L 11, 61. «cL;
XL. 1, 14, 4t. «acb; LL 16, le, 3f. cadi. Area Booka : CiMvePrkur, HindHp. it. eacb.
Town Plaaa— l(>-ft-et Kale.*^-»
Kkgland ayi> Waives : Lelctnter, XXX E. 10, 3, 4, 6, t; 2t. neb. West Bromwfch and ScncthiildE,
LXVJIL M, 14; 31.
{Stun/ord^ Agent)
AFRICA.
Afrika^ — Sj^ezial-Karle von im Massntab voa 1 : 4,0<X>,000or 55*5 ji^eograpliicftl
milea to an iuch {10 Blatt.) entworfen von Hermann HabeDicbt, bearbeitet von
demselben, Bruno Domann iind Dr. Hichard Luddecke. Zweite Auflage. 1^ Lief«
Inhalt : Prospectus,— Sekti on Abessinien (6) nebst Bemerkungen von H. Habe-
nicht. Sektion Ck>ngo (7) nebst Ikmerkungen von H, Habenicht. Gotba, Justua
Perthes, 1887. Price 3s. each part. (Didau,}
This is the first part of a new edition of this excellent map of Africa, it
consists of two sheets, arid the pros|)ectus (containing index map). Sheet
No« 6 contains ^lart of Dr. Junker's explorations, and also exhibits the
boundaries of Emin Paihas Province. On the mast of tbe lied Sea^ the Italian
territory extending from Massouah to Assab Bay is shown^ and the colouring
along tbe coast of Somali Land, which in tbe previous edition indicated that
it was under Gorman protection, lia« been removed. Sheet No. 7, boundary
between the Congo Free State and tbe French possessions has been moved to
the Mobaniii, and the boundary of the Portugpeae territory of Angola is also
tbown. In the Congo basin, the river Lukenje, the work of Francois, and
some of Gmufeil's is laid down. There are tiuiaeroiis other corrections and
additions which bear nitnees to the careful revision which tbe original edition
of this map has undergone.
Massaua* — Carta Sptciale del la Regione attorno a — - tra 1* Uokifo o Lava e ,
riladdaa, sino ad Asus, Gbinda ed Ua-a, costruita e disegnata da Gui'^'
Scale 1 : 200,000 or *2*7 geographical miles to an inch. Torino, <
2'- edizione, 1B87. Price lOd, iDuIau,)
I
NEVr UAI-S.
MI
This map, which has Id a great measure been compiled by Profesaor Guido
Cont from Home UEpubiiahed material, will doubtless he examined with interest
by matij In connection witli the movements of tlie Italian troopa in the neigh-
bo«irh<Kx3 of MasBouah, The bouodaries of the territory claimed by Italy are
clearly laid down^ and many of the totwgraphical featureSj which do not appear
in other maps, are ahowo.
Sn&kin uad Ka&sala- — Die Karawauen-Strftsaen zwischen * Nach Itinerar-
Aufnahmen vou Jusoph Menj^es, gezeichnet v. C* Baricli. tscale 1 : 800»(K)0 ur
10*9 geographical milea to an inch. Petermanii's 'GeoTraphiache Mitteilungen/
Jahrgang 1B87, Taf. 6. Justus Perthes, Oulha. (Duhn,)
ATLA8E6.
Argentilie Repllblic.— Atlas de la Republics Argentina, conatruido y publicado
[•or rescjlucion del " Instituto Geografioo Argentine " bajo loa auapicioa del Exmo.
Gobierno Xacional y redactado por el l>r. Arturo Seelstrang, miembro del
Instituto. Buenoa Aires: LitograOa y Eocuadernacion de Gailiermo Kraft.
1886. (Diiluu.y
This is the first iMue of the Atlas, and oontaius the following mapa : —
Sheet V,, the aouth-east section of tlie Province of Baenos Aires; sheet VIII.,
the pn>vmce of Entre Rioa ; sheet XIL, the northern section of the Province
of Cordoba, and sheet Xtll., the southern Bection of the same province; sheet
XXVi», the Government of Santa Cruz; and sheet XXVIL, the Government
of Tierra del Fuego and the Falkland Islanda, From the above it will be seen
that the abecta of this atlaa are not being issued in consecutive order, but as
600D Es completed in aufhcient numbers to make up a livraison. The maps
are not acoonipanied by any explanatory text, neither is any information given
Bi to the authorities or surveys from which they are compiled. This is to be
regretted, aa some of the sheets, especially Noe, XIL, XIIL, XXVh, and
XXYIL, contain a large amount of new work. The maps, which have been
entirely prcxiuccd at Buenos Aires, are very creditable siJecimens of work, and
the Atlas when completed will be a most imjx>rtant and valuable addition to
the cartography of South America^
ie. — Die in Karteu u. BUdem. Hand-Atlas in sechzig Karten und 800
IJlustnitionen. In GO Lieferunj^en vollatiLndig. A. Hartlebens Verlag, Wien,
Peit, Leipzig. 1. Lieferung. Price U, (Dulan,)
This is the first isaue of a popular Atlas which will be compleled in hfty
ptrts, coutivining sixty maps, eight hundred illustrations, and copious letter^
press. In this part are two sheets of maps, one containing the World in hemi-
ipberes, and on an elliptical projection, the other being a map of Norway and
Sweden ; both are well executed, and considering that there are twelve pages
of descriptive letterpress, and twenty iiluBtratious, it is marvellously cheap at
the price, viz, one shilling,
£eyal Atlas of Modern Geography.— The , exhibiting, in a seriea of
entirely original and autbentic maps, the present condition of geographical
discovery and research in the several countries, empires, and states of the world.
By the late Alexander Keith Johnston, LL.a, f.b.g.s., r.R.s.E., *Stc. &c. With
additbns and corrections to the present date by T. B. Johnston, F,B.G.e-, F,R.f!i.E*,
r.s.A,s., &c. With a SjDeclal Index to each map. A new edition. W. 3: A. K.
Johnston, Edinburgh and London. 1887. Price,
russia or morocco, with gilt
gilt, 10/. 10s.
In the pnesenii
imperial folio, half-bound, in
full bound, russia or morocco,
^ tbtirely new maps, one of
! * I om posing the
[hat, with the
S98
NEW MAPS.
«J
exception of tbe coast-line, they hav« be«n entirely re-drawn and *.
Oe tbe sheets repreaentiag Eojjjland and Scotland the names of mai
which have grown to be important eince the earlier cditiona were ju^
have been inserted. Many corrections and additions will be found
maps, thus, in tlie map of the North Polar Regions, Major Gr&ely's -
given; on that of Europe the bonndaries of Bulgaria have been ooi .
roarty alterations have been made in the maps of North-west and
Afrim, and on the latter are shown the results of the explorations of
and Giraiid, some portion of Jiinker*8 work being ako j^iven. Sheet 42 <
all the lateat information we have on the subject of the Somali countr
the map of Persia and Afghaniitan the boundarica of the latter country •
down by the Commissioners are given, and, generally speaking, nearly
map has received imix>rtant corrections. There are, however, aa mig'"
expected in a work of this magnitude, several exceptions to this nile, foTt^-^;^
among which is the general map of Africa, which ia certainly quite out of "^
Aa the Royal Atlas has now been before the public for twenty-six y-^^
and baa passed through several editions, it would be neetiless to enter
the particulars as to the manner in "which the maps have been exect ^ ^
except to remark that the two new maps of Western Canada aud Me^ "^^
which are the work of Mr» W. J. Turner, who was formerly draughtsman to ^^^
Society, are quite equal to any of those contained in the previons editr -^
and which have gained for the Royal Atlas such a weU»deserved reputatioi^C^^
Horth Atlantic Ocean. — Synchronous Weather Charts of the and
adjacent continents for every day from 1st August 1882 to Slst August 1
Published nnder the authority of the Meteorological Council, Part XL Ch
from 8th November 1882 to 14th February 1S83. London, printed for
Majesty's Stationery Office by Eyre and S|K>tti8woode. And to be pnrcbi
either directly or through any Bookseller, from Eyre and Spottiswoode,
Harding Street, Fleet Street, E.C, or A. & C. Black, Edinburgh, or K
Figgis & Co. Dublin. Price lis. this part.
This ia a coutinuation of the valuable series of meteorological charta,
first issue of which waa noticed in the May number of the R.G.S* * Proceedir:*.
EDUCATIONAL.
Kampeili Alb. de« — ^Tabulio maxlmna quibiie ilhistrantnr terraa Vetera m, in iis
s^eholamm editic ab Alb. de Kampcn* Tabula 11* Italia, Scale 1 : 750,000
10' 3 geographical miles to an inch, Goth«e, Justiia Perthes, 1887. 9 sheel^**
Price B». (Duhii.)
Tabulae maximie quibna illnatrantur terne. vetemm, in usum scholanin^
eJitiB ab Alb. Kampen, Tabula III. Gallia. Scale 1:750,000 or 10*3 geo-^^
grapbtcal miles to an inch, Gotha?, Justus Perthes, 9 sheets. Price 8r*
(Dulau,)
These form part of a series of school maps Id course of publication. Thejg
arc <lrawn iu a bold style, and seem in all respects well Biiited to the purpose
for which they are designed^
PROCEEDINGS
OF
ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
AND MONTHLY RECORD OF GEOGRAPHY.
ExphralimiB in Central Africa, By Dn W. Jukker.
(Bead at the Evening Jleeting, May 9th, 1887.)
Map, p. 4GG.
Although I Ixa^^e not until now had tlie honour of addressing an
Englifih audienc© on tho subject of my travels, I may take it for granted
that my hearers are suflSciently acquainted with the account of my first
journey, which was laid before the i>iiblic in a lecturo delivered in
Berlin in the year 1870. In the same year I set out on my second
journey, in which, after seven years' wanderings from my departure
from Cairo, I reached the ehores of the Indian Ocean, at Zanzibar, in
December laat. My purpose in claim leg your attention at present is to
lay before you a short account of my long wanderings in the equatorial
provinces of Egypt, Through an unfortunate concurrence of circum-
fitances, this journej'^ covered a period of time and an extent of ground
far beyond my original intoiitions.
In the short space of time during which I can claim your attention,
I can, of oourse, give you but a meagre outline of my experiences
during these long ycarsj and of the results to which my journej' haa led.
The mass of materials collected makes it quite impossible to linger over
details.
Instead of expatiating on the incidents of the whole journey, and
giving a minute account of the regions I have traversed, I shall confine
myself chiefly to the events of the last few years. By the outbreak of
the warlike troubles in the Sudan, the Ecjuatorial Provinces %vere,
during my residence, completely cut off from all communication with
the north, which might have enlightened people in Europe as to what
was going on there. Whilo wo had to remain in the dark as to what
was taking place in the Sudan, you hsive had to remain, up to the
present time, in ignorance as to the progress of events in the negro
countries subject to the sway of the Egyptian Government. I believe,
therefore, that I shall have a hotter chance of retaining your attention
if I confine myself in the folio wng account to the historical events
No. VII.— July 18870 2 g
400
EXPLORATIONS IK CE.NTRAL AFRICA.
that occurred in those then imaccossihlo Equatorial Provinces during
those eventful years. I shall princiijully treat of that region in which,
at the present moment, Emin Pasba, with his soldiers and a small band
of oflicialsj is patiently LoldiDg out till the hour of delivorance arrive.
My route seven years ago was from Suez to Suakim, anti thence,
hy a route which was new to me, to Berlwr* On 1113' first journey to the
Sudan, ten years ago, I had followed the £hor Baraka from Suakim by
Tokar to Kassala.
On my return from my fi^rst journey I bad taken the route from Khar-
tum through the Bayiida steppo to Dongola. On my »eoond journey a
gteamer took me from Berber to Khartum, where I arrived in the begin-
niEg of January 1880, As a travelling companion I bad engaged a
German, named Bohndorff, who was to aid mo in preserving zoological
specimens. A negro boy, whom I had brought %vith me to Europe on my
first journey, accompanied me on the second, back to the negro countries.
It was my purpose to explore the regions on the Welle, and to follow
that stream as far as possible to the west* I hoped in this way to find
a definite solution to the long open question, whether the Welle, first
discovered by Dr. Schweinfurth, lielonged to the Congo or to the Shari
Ijasin. At the time of my arrival at Khartum, the dipper court^e of the
Nile (that is to say, of the Bahr el Gebel) had been closed for months
by grass ban"ier«, the well-known Sudd. iSovoral steamers were work-
ing, under the direction of Marno, at the task of freeing the stream.
This circumstance thwarted my plan of reaching the Welle from Lado,
through the Makaraka countries, which were known to me from my
first journey to the Sudan. I therefore eml>arked in the course of
January, the month of my arrival, on a steamer bound for the Bahr el
Ghazal, and in February we reached Meshra or Hek, This was the
starting point for the land journey into the country, then under the
command of a Pasha, which bad recently been the scene of bloody wars
against Soliman Bey, son of Ziltehr Paeha,
The journey by steamer up the Bahr el Ghazal was not without
ohstructiona. We had about forty larger and smaller grass bars to
force. These, however, on this river, do not accjuire the thickly inter-
woven consistence of the bars on the Bahr el Gebel^ but can generally
bo forced by a steamer. It was, however, hardly a year afterwards, that
these obstructions in the Bahr el Ghazal brought hundreds of j>eople to
a miserable death. A ste^imer, returning fi'om Heshra er Kek, drove
into these grass bars with such force, that it could move neither back-
wards nor forwards. The steamer had, unfortunately, e-overal barges in
tow, full of people, whom Gessi Pasha, who was on board in person,
wished to bring down to Khartum. All exertions to extricate them-
selves from the labyrinth of matted river-grass proved fruitless, and
after they had been closed in several months famine set in, and cai-ried
off hundreds of wretched victims. The misery w^as indescribable. After
EXPLORATIONS IN CENTRAL AFRICA.
401
everything eatable had been conBumed, the Burvivors supported life by
devouring the bodies of the dead. A eteamer sent ont at a later
period from Khartura, brought off all who had not previously died of
famine. As already mentioned^ tho land journey begins from Meshra
<;r Rek, and leade Bonthwards, through various Dinka tribes, in seven
days, to the Btation of Dyur Ghattas, After a somewhat lengthy
stay there, I travelled west with Gossi Pasha l»y Wan and Ganda,
formerly the Dem Idris station, to tho head station of the Babr el
(thazal provinces, Bern Soliman, formerly Dem Zibohr, My baggage
was sent with my people^ direct from the station Ganda to Dem
Bokir, wfcdther I followed after a short stay at Dem Soliman. The
district traversed is, up to this point, known from tho accounts of
various travellers* On my first Sudan journey, Doming from the south,
through the Makaraka countries, I had already penetrated beyond
the station Wau. This district wan first correctly mapped by Dr.
8chweinfurth, my esteemed master and friend, wlio after the loss of his
instruments, undertook the tremendous labour of calculating the
distaucee by counting his steps. My work of exploration, in the real
scDse of the term, began from Dem Bekir* From theuce I travelled in
the course of the following years, to the south and west on new and
unexplored ground. In the south I was able to correct the route of
the Italian, Miani, which bad been very erroneously laid down in former
maps. In tho west I was able to follow stretch by stretch the route of
the Greek traveller, Potagos^ whose journal has apparently never seen
the light, and to map it out.
My more iuimediate goal was the territory of the powerful Niam Niam
king, N'Domma, who, up to a short time before, had been at war with
the troops of the Egyptian government in the Babr el Ghuzal province*
He had formerly prohibited tho passage of the ivory atravans through
his country, and would sufl'of no station to bo established in the districts
under his sway. Adopting a plan followed in all my subsequent journeys,
I sent messengers forward to N'Doruma to give him par ticuhirs about me,
telling him to make a great point of my travelling without military eacort.
1 never entered the territory'' of a powerful ruler, or even of one of the
minor chiefs, without first waiting for his messengers, who generally
came immediately with tho^se I hud deeimtched, to whom I used to give
small presents for the chiefs, Tho negro is suspicioua. N'Doruma him-
self, from ^Buch motives of suspicion^ came to meet me in person, in
order to satisfy himself about me and my people with bis own eyes.
Seemingly at case about us, he hastened back into his own territories, in
order, as he told mo, to quiet the apprehensions of his subjects about
our appearance. In the Bahr el Ghazal conntiy I had procured several
negro boys and giils to cook our food on the way. Though these were
several times changed later on, I never, in all my journeys afterwards,
had any other escort worthy the name than such attendants. A littlo
402
EXPLOKATIONS IN CENTRAL AFRICA*
slave girl, hardlj nine years of age, who liad run away from her owner
and fonnd her way to me, and a little boy, of abont the same age,
accoinpataied me on all my jonmejs as far as Zanzibar.
At kstj in the month of May, 1 was able to start from Bem Bekir
with 250 bearers. In fourteen days I reached the hnts of N*Donima,
Sonthwanls from Dem Bekir, before we eiitered the territories of the
Niam Niam, who call themselves A-Zandeh, we passed through scattered
tribes of the Golo, Sere, and Bongo. In the first days we crossed a
number of smaller streams, which, flowing to the north-east, belong to
the Nile basin. Soon, howtn-er, we encountered streams flowing to the
west, which are tributaries of the M'bomu. This is the most consider-
able of the northem tributaries of the Welle-Makua. If the Welle be,
as it probably is, the upper course of the Mobangi, and a tributary of the
Congo, the boundaries of the Congo Free State would touch on the
Bahr el Ghazal territory. On the banks of some of these watercoiirses
a luxuriant and variegated vegetation is met with^ which, more to the
east, does not occtir till far to the south. Here I saw those magnificent
** gallery " forests which have been described by Dr. Schweinfurth.
These are narrow fringes of wood, rising one over another in the form
of ton^aces, along the banks of the rivers, here forming deep gorges, in
which the whole magnificence of a tropictil vegetation lies hidden.
My real goal, as I have already said, was the districts on the Welle,
particularly Mangbattn (Monbnttn), We owe to Dr. Schweinfurth our
first accurate accounts of this countrj^, who however, reached it by
the more easterly route. The wearisome rainy season waa at hand oo
my arrival at N'Doruma*s. As that ruler wished me to remain for some
time with him, I resolved to set up a station there for the coming months.
With the help of N'Domma's people, who were despatched to the work
by hundreds, I was able to erect good, substantial dweUings, I caused
my group of huts to be surrounded with a high stockade, and large
branches of thorn to be piled up against this on the outside. This
measure of precaution is necessary in those places, on account of the
abundance of leopards. Kegresses are frequently carried off by these
animals, generally when fetchiog water in the twilight. Such an
iiccidont happened once in the neighbourhood of my station. The
animal having left his victim, only half consumed, on the spot, we
caught it on the following day in a large trap, the arm of the un-
fortunate negresa serving as a bait. The leopard is in the habit of
returning, in most cases, on several consecutive daysj to the spot where
ho has found his food, before he looks out for another scene for his
depredations. On this account, in order to catch the animal, the natives,
immediately after a victim has been seized, build in the same place &
small but strong hut of trunks of trees, in which they place a bait under
a beam, arranged so as to fall whenever the bait is touched. Numbers
of leopards are got rid of in this way. The lioD, as is well known, will
EXPLORATIONS IN CENTRAL AFRICA.
403
13 ot go into sach a trap, and generally confines himself to certain diBtricte,
rich in game, in which he hunts the buffalo and antelope. There are
other diatricte however, in which ho freqiiontly attacks man. In Dar
Banda, I frequently saw the isolated grass huts of the negroes sur-
rounded by a light network, to prevent midnight depredations by the
lions, which are abundant in that district. The lion is said to avoid
the network just as he does the trap. Hunting in central Africa is an
unusually arduous business. Bank, high grass, sharp, cutting and
frequently growing to the thickness of rushes, covers the country nearly
three-fourths of the year. For the same reason, during the whole of the
rainy season, and till the grass dries up and is burnt, travelling is
rendered immensely more dilHcult. The narrow footpaths, made use of
Tjy the negroes, and partly trodden out by wild animals (there are no
<*ther roads in Africa), are almost entirely concealed by the rank grass.
The feet only, in most places, have room to move fonvard, while the grass,
growing to the height of a man, interlaces in tlie middle of the path in
-Buch a wa3^, that, on these journeys, I have frequently been unable to
eee a man immediately in front of me. I could only hear him rustling
through the grass. For hours haves I been compelled, with my lifted
arm, to protect my eyes from the "waving stalks. Such is the state of
matters at the end of the rainy season and after it. But in December
and January tho grass has become so dry, that it can be burnt up. The
burning of the grass is usual all over Africa. At this time, and in the
first months after it, when, by means of the nightly dew, and later on,
after the first new rain falls, young grass has again spning up, hunting
is considerably easier. Certain stretches of grass arc preserved from the
first general conflagration. The game retires into these spots. The
elephant too, seeks shelter in the grass thickets. When the hiding
places of the animals have been discovered, and the grass is drj'' enough
to burn, these spots are set on fire from several sides at the same time-
The frightened animals, remaining by their young from maternal affec^
tioD, have their great feet hurt and singed by the burning grasti, and
then fall an easier prey to the spears of the natives.
Such extousive grass conflagrations preeent a sublime but terrible
€pectacle in the darkness of the night. While forcibly reminding the
spectator that all things are transitory and doomed to destructioD, they
inspire him with strange and contradictory feelings. What an immense
flum of anim^al life is thus uselessly destroyed ! A whole insect world
finds its death in the flames. Millions of grasshoppers and winged
creatures of all kinds, started by the approach of the fii'O, rise into the
air only to fall victims to their natural enemies. Insect-eating birds,
flying alx»ut in the smoke above tho flames, are waiting for the prey,
which falls to their share in immense numbers. Flocks of birds of prey,
chiefly kite^, fly about in wide circles overhead, every moment picking
np the large grasshoppers, or looking out behind the lino of fire for field
404
EXPLORATIONS IN CENTRiX AFBICA.
mioe, or even little Biiakes. In the montiifl of drouglit, after the graev
baa been burnt, that is to eay, from Decomlier to March or April,
travoUing in most of these equatorial countries is exposed to fewer
obstacles. The tall troublesome grass has disappeared, and it m
poesibl© to move about in freedom to the right and left of the path.
Later on, when the gi-ass has again shot np to the height of several feet,
the traveller, brushing off the early dew in the cool morning hours, is-
completely wetted through up to and above the kneea. \Yiien the
snn's rays exert their full power in the heat of the day, they then cause
an itchy feeling in the legs, like that caused by heating bandages. The
oontinual friction givea rise to sores difEcult to heal, which at times I
Ijiave had by the dozen on my legs.
After having finished the building of the station at N*Donima*s, I
planted the garden with European vegetables and had the pleasure of
eecing my crops sprouting up, the firat to ripen being excellent radishes.
My people and my baggage were now provided for, I thoroughly
enjoyed the comfortable home, which I had created for myself only for a
few %veeks. But a quiet life would not harmonise with the plana I had
laid out for myself. It wa,s my wish to make myself acquainted
with the surrounding districta in a series of excursions, leaving my
companion at the station occupied in forming a collection of zoological
specimens.
After two months' residence at N^Domma's, I started, in the month of
Augustj with only twenty bearers and the most necessary accoutrements
and small presents for the negro chiefs. During my reaidence at
N'Doruma'a, I had put myself, through messengei^a, on good terms with
various rulers and powerful chiefs of the Niam Kiam oonntries, and re-
ceived many invitations to visit them in their own territories* Only Mbio,
the heroditiiry enemy of N'Doruma, to the east of the latter's ten-itoiy, a
powerful Zandeh ruler, refused me entrance into bis country, and was
continually threatening to snrprise and bum my station. Two years
afterwards bis power was broken in a bloody war with the troops of the
Government, and I passed through his territory on my flight before the
forces of the Mahdi.
On my tour from N*I)oruma I reached the Welle for the first time,
crossed it, reached Mangbattu, and, turning to the east in a large curve,
recroased the Welle. Traversing the territories of various Kiam Niam
rulers, I again returned in Decjember of the same year, after four
months* absence, to my station at K'Donima*a. It is not in the plan of
this short description t*> enter into details, I shall only mention how,
at my first arrival at the WeUe, I was involved in the hostilities of the
Mangbattu and A-Barambo tribes. Thongh shots bad already been
exchanged, 1 was euccesiiful in my efforts to prevent an open war, I
shall likewise pass over my stay at that time witli Mambanga, a Mang-
battu chief, and the advance of N'Donima with his forces against the
SXPLOI&ITIOKS IN CENTRAL AFRICA* 405
Niam Niam chief Binsa, to release me, as he said, out of the latter*8
hands. This movement was occasioned by a report spread abroad that I
was detained a prisoner by that chief. On this occasion, too, I was able
to prevent hostilities. Thera were at that time several Government
stations in Mangbattu. The unsatisfactory state of things among the
Arabs there caused me thus early to give up my original plan of moving
with my people and my baggage thither after the rainy season.
Although I had not returned to my station at N'Doruma's till December,
I had soon to think of another start, as, in the meanwhile, the most
favourable season for travelling had approached. This time I intended
to proceed, with all my people and baggage, to the country of tho
powerful Niam Niam chief Bakangai, southwards from the Welle.
As early as January 1881, I was on the way by a new road to the
south-west, the country of the A-Madi, crossed the Welle there again,
and obtained, though with the greatest difficulty, the necessary number
of bearers among the A-Barambo. These bearers afterwards robbed me
of a part of my goods and abandoned me, so that, for the time, I had to
give up all thoughts of travelling in this direction. Nor could I find
people to carry my baggage back to the Welle. There followed two months
full of trouble for me, in which we had to construct huts for ourselves
in the wilderness, and I was hardly able to find provisions for my few
attendants. Fears of a night attack by the A-Barambo often deprived
me of sleep. In the meantime I had secretly sent word to Sahsa, a
friendly Niam Niam chief, who immediately came with his people to
the Welle, and, in order to avoid open hostilities with the A-Barambo,
through which our lives would have been endangered, caused my goods
to be carried back across the Welle in small instalments. I myself
followed last, and with a heavy heart. I wished however, to venture a
new advance later, with only a small amount of baggage, by another
road. For this reason I waited on in the country of the A-Madi.
At the end of April I sent Bohndorff with the baggage, under tho
care of the chief Sahsa, into the latter's country, south of the Mbomii,
where he was to establish another permanent station. In tho meantime
great changes had been going on in the Mangbattu countries. Emin
Pasha had sent regular troops to reduce them to order. Mambango, tho
Mangbattu chief whom I had visited the year before, was at war with
the Government troops. A lately erected station on the Welle was hard
pressed by Mambango's people. At the repeated request of the Egyptian
officer in charge there, who had heard of my residence among the A-
Madi, I afterwards resolved to act as intermediary between Mambango
and the representatives of the Government, until reinforcements arrived
from Emin Pasha. I visited the chief, who was favourably disposed
towards me, in his camp, and according to the custom of the negroes,
exchanged blood with him in token of the ratification of the bond of
friendship between us. To secure the safety of the station, I remained
40G
EXPLORATIONS IN CENTIUL AFRICA.
some months with the soldiers. At the end of November, 1881, I was
able to cany out my plan of going to Bakangai,
From that time on I was almost nninterraptedly on the way, and up
to June 1882, carried ont all my various exoureione south of the Welle
and Bomokandi, My i u vest i gat ions and enquiries there enabled me
to correct tbo route of the Italian, Miani, which should be J aid down
several days' journey more south. The territory of Bakangai, which
that traveller likewise visited, does not lie directly south from the Welle,
but south from iia large tributary, the Bomokandi,
I found a friendly reception on the part of the powerful Niam Niam
rhiefs, Bakangai and Kanna, sons of Kipa* I there became acquainted
with many an ancient cuMt4>m of the once united Zandoh people, customs
of which, among the Niam Kiam tribes north of the Welle, hardly a
trace remains. Among these are to be reckoned the honours they
afluctionately pay to their royal ancestoi-s, to whom they render an
almost religious veneration, Kanna, for instance, kept up the dwellings
of his long deceased father, before whom food was daily placed, and a
part of the produce of the chase. Even my presents to Ivanna wero
carried into the cabins of his dead father, a circumstance which I bad
reason to regret, as 1 was afterwards obliged to furnish others. For
three days we remained with Kanna at the huta of the dead Kipa before
the chief led me to his own <lwt3lliugs. Human sacrifices also, slaves
taken in war, are devoted to this worship of the dead. The ruling
chiefs are often moved by dreams and visions, in which their dead
fathers appear to them, to engage in important acts, such as wars, *fec.
Immorality on the part of the Zandeh women ia often punished by the
husband with the death of the seducer. Instead of the punishment of
death for such crimes, as well as fur theft, the culprit is often maimed,
by hacking off his two hands, liis fingers, cutting off the cars, the nose,
or the lips. While the men of many negro tribes go completely naked,
I know no tribe whore the women do not at least make uso of the leaves
of trees. In deep grief, during the time of mourning, they cast off*
these too.
The Mangbattu wojuan has a comparatively free position, and a seat
in the aseemblies of the men. Thus the Mangbattu chiefs ivhom I
visited were, in their large asHund>lies, always surrounded by their chosen
wives. The latter used frequently to come, without hindrance, with
their stools to my evening fire, where they joined in tho chat and
laughter. Their clothing is very primitive, and consists of a j>iece of
bark cloth which, in sitting down on their stools, they lay over their
kneea* The wives of tho principal chiefs, however, are not satisfied
w4tb this eimple covering. These people have, in consequence, become
ingenious, and have succeoiled in learDing how to paint their bodies
with geometrical lines, regular squares, or large round spots in tho most
various ways* The liwly of a llangbattu woman of fashion is often.
EXPLORATIONS IN CENTRAL AFRICA.
407
only to be compared with an inlaid floor, painted in tbree cjoloiira. As
individual fancy discovers, from time to time, new and etriking patterns,
they are always aldo to produce new efiFects with their varying toilets.
The fumitnre of tlie toilet tahle of a Mangbattu woman is of the
simplest kind ; a email pot of dark brown oil, from the crown of the
oil palm ; a piece of a broken dish with red, and one with black, colonr,
and some pieces of wood to lay the colour on. Finally, a few long
hairpins, carved out of ivory, whitk serve as combs for their woolly hair.
Besides the painting of their bodies, which takes an exoeesiTely long
time, and requires the help of other hands than their own, the women
spend hours in piling np their hair in artificial knots, over six inches
high* In patience and perseverance at the toilet the Mangbattu women
tjxcel their more civilised sisters.
From tho territories of the chief Kanna, and that of the aonthern-
moet A-Zandeh, I passed over again to the Mangbattu territory j and
spent a short time with the Italian traveller Casati^ at the station
Tangofii. Tiience I passed to the east, thrtmgh the territoriea of the
A-Batigba Momvn, cx'oseed once more tho Bomokandi to the south, and
became acquainted with the tribes of the Madje, Maigo, and Ma^jode, and
discovered there, on my fioiithernmost journey, the river Nepoko, which
I identify with Stanley's Aniwimi.
With Sanga, a Mangbattu chief living on the Nepoko, I spent
the hardest time I ever had to go through in Africa. Wbolly confined
to negro diet, my health had suifered. KumberlesB sores on my legs
did not heal for months. I was at that time in want of every necessary,
even soap, having left all my baggage l>ehind, on account of swampa,
which were difficult to cross. On those excursions to the eoutli of the
Bomokandi, I had tho satisfaction of meeting with the dwarfish race of
the Akka, or Tikki Tikki, in their settlements. They form Tvandering
colonies, and are therefore difficult to light upon, being both timid and
suspicious in the exireme; they are excellent marksmen, live almost ex-
clusively on the produce of the chase, and are very skilful in killing
the elephants with their little arrows.
On iMj travels I was accompanied for years by two Tikki Tikki,
Bakangai made mc a present of a stout little fellow, together with a
chimpanzee. I afterwards sent him, together with my collections, into
the Babr el Ghazal territory. Both passed into the hands of the Mahdi's
people.
Weak in body, and still suflTering from sores on my hands and
ieet, I finally retniTied to the Tangasi station in Mangbattu, where, in
Casati's society, I allowed myself a month's repoee. The last excursion
had been very trying. There being no paths, we followed the elephant
traoke, and had often been obliged to creep through the thicket in a
stooping posture. But, at any rate* it had terminated my journeys
iiouth of the Welle. After having been separated from my baggage for
IPB explorations in central AFRICA.
more than a year, I felt a longing to reacli my station, which BohndorfiT
had in the meanwhilo tranHfcrrt d from the chief Sahsa's to Semio's, a
Zandcli chief J living north of the Mhonm.
In Angnst, 1882, I left for good the countries south of the Welle.
Crossing once more the Wtdle-Makua, I travelled by a new way to the
north, through the country of the A-Madi. I aftertvards passed through
several dietricta of A-Zandeh chiefs, crossi^d the Uerre, a considerable
northern trilmtaiy of the Welle-iMakna, beyond the territory of the
chief Yapfiti* and after traversing various territories of minor chiefs and
scattered tribes, I reaohe^l the Mbomu, and beyond it, at the end iif
September 1882, my new station at Semio.
Amongst fnll chests and long Diiased necessanes which can make
life tolerable even in those remote region a, I soon forgot all my sufferings.
My companion had often been ill in the conreo of the year, and wished
to retnrn to Europe. I at once set to work packing up the collections
which he was to take with hiiu. In Oetol>er he started for the Bahr ©1
Ghazal territory, where, in the meanwhile, Lnpton Bey had become
governor, I myself intended to start on my travels again in November
and explore the ground to the west. At tho same time, I wished to
follow the course of tho Wello-Makua further. A sad misfortune at
this time deprived me of a part of the valuable property of which I had
hitherto been very sparing. A fire that broke out in tlie station burnt
down three huts, and destroyed a considerable part of my gooils. Before
departing again from Semio, I received news from Lnpton Be}' that tho
Dinka tril*ea had revolted* and that the way to Jlcshra er Rek would
therefore be closed for some time. This was in October 1882, the com-
mencement of long uninterrupted and bloody ware in tho Bahr el Ghazal
territory, on which finally the invitsion of the Mahdi'e troops followed.
My companion, Bohndorff, was theref^^re obliged to return to our
station at Semio, not having been able tu proceed U> Meshra er Rek.
[n the beginning of December 1 had again started for the south, so that
Bohndorff arrived two late to ^ee mo. On iny last tourj which did not
end till the let of I^Iay, 1883, 1 travelled fii-st to the south-west and
reached the Welle-Makua in tho immediate neighbourhood of the spot
where two of its principal tributaries join it, the Uon*o from the north,
and the Mbima from the south. On this trip, as well as still further
to the west, I was traversing the broad territories of the Bandyia,
According to their language they are a Zandeh tribe j but they them-
selves boast of an independent descent, and will admit to have nothing
in common with the A-55andeh. On the numberless islands of the Welle-
Makua, I became acipiainted with the A-Btissango, with a language of
their own. The south bank of the Makua is inhabited in that neigh-
Uonrhood by tribes of the A-Babiia. It would lead mo too far here to
mention all tho tribes and peoples that I came in oontaot with per-
sonally, or heard of.
EXPLORATIONS IN CENTRAL AFRICA.
409
On tlie last great advance towarda the west, I onoe more reached
the Welle-Makua, at a place where, as in the former case, it is divided
into man J channels hj the niimberlesB islands in its bed, whence it is
impossible to estimate its breadth. The Mbomu is said to join the Welle-
Makim five or six days* journey moro to tho west. Making a large bend
to the north, I eroMed the Mbomu, which at that part is a broad,
navigable stream. From the north it receives the Shinko, to which, in
its tnm, the Gongo Lowa is a tiibtitary, I passed throngh the Dar
Banda, reached the station Mbanga (the former seat of Mofio as given on
Schweinfurth's map), crossed the territories of various scattered tribes
of the Biri, the A-Kale, &c., and, coming from the north this time,
arrived at my station at Semio on the 1st of May, 1883.
Shortly before my arrival, Bohndorff had again started for the Bahr
el Ghazal territoiy, Lnpton at that time having hopes of quelling the
insurrection of the Dinka tribes. Xearly all the stations in the Bandj'ia
territory had been called in during my last tour, and the garrisons sent
by Lupton Bey to the Bahr el Ghazal province to put down the insurgent
Dinka. I now regarded my travels as finished, aod intended likewise
in a short time to start for the Bahr el Ghazal. Bnt it was oot to be.
After my return to Semio I had packed up my goods and my fresh
Collections, and was only waiting for better news from. Lupton Bey,
But in the courKC of the next few montlis things became worse instead
of better. Though he had collected all hia available troops from the
outlying stations, Lupton did not succeed in putting do\\*ii the Dinka,
These were afterwards joined by the Nuehr, the Agahr, and various tribes
on the Roid. The Dinka, as Lupton Bey then wrote to me, made an
exoellent use of the guns that had fallen into their hands* It was a
trying time for Lupton. I frequently recei%'ed communications from
him from all parts of his province, accordiug to his mo%*ement« against
the rebels. But he held his own with the greatest bravely. Full
justice has till now not been done him by the public, and for a very
intelligible reason. People were in complete ignorance of all that had
been going on in hitt province. The eighteen months' war of the Dinka
against Lupton's troops was far moro bloody and exhausting for both
parties than the later engagements against the troops of the Mahdi in
Em in Pasha's province.
After these exhausting wars against the Dinkas, who had been
finally supported by the Mahdi's forces, Lupton, betrayed by those about
him, was -compelled to deliver his province without resistance to the
emissary of the Mahdi, the Emir Karm Allah. The chief cause of this
surrender is to be sought in the fact, that Lupton had almost exclusively
only irregular troops at his disposal, a rascally mob that Gessi had
already begun to sweep off out of the country, after the war with
Soliman Bey. These irregulars consist of Dongoia people, and Arabs of
all kinds, who were certainly of some use in a war against the infidel
410
EXPLORATIONS IN CENTRAL AFRICA.
negroes, but who very naturally aLantloixed Lupton Bey whenever they
were [isked to marcli against men of the same faith.
In Emin Pasha's province matters Btood differently » There the
regnlar troops formed the majority. These are driUed negro soldierB,
whoj besides, jnortally hate the Arabs, asd are always ready to fight
with them. Thus the next few mouths were passed at Semio in anxious
cxjiectation of the igsne of events. On the 1st of August, 1883, I made
the following entry in ni}^ diary : — ** All my hoi^es of reachiog home this
year have come to nothing. Thanks to Lupton's frequent communica-
tionsj I have been kept well informed as to the state of things in the
Bahr el Ghazal province. Our eyes are turned with longing apprehension
to the north whence we anxiouslj^ exjject help. The steamer from
Khartum has not yet been heard of. What will the immediate future
bring us ? Lupton*s last news is ominous, Hassan Mubsat killed, and
nixty muskets again fallen into the hands of the rebels ! The way to
Meshra er Rek again closed through the insurrection » and 900 muskets
despatched to open it up again. My fears with regard to the people on
the Bohl and the Eumbehk station huve been eonfinned, for Lupton
writes; — VEumbohk destroyed, only six soldiers escaped.' Furthermoro,
Lupton's account of the disposition of the Arabs in the Mudirieh, and the
flight of thirty Dongola men and some leading Faki to the Mahdif
Finally, should the incredible happt^ii* and the Arabs Lard pressed from
the north ovemm the Bahr el Ghazal province, there would remain for
us only flight to the soutfa. Oh for help from Khartum 1 '* I had already
induced Semio, whom I knew to be a faithful adhereut of the Govern-
ment, to establish trustworthy outlooks on his frontiers towards the
north, especially from the station Mbanga. Through spies I Tvas con-
tinuall}^ receiving inforraation about tlie attitude which the noighbotinng
trihes assumed towards the insurj ection of the Dlnka.
Lupton whites me under date of the 10th of August ; "No steamer
yet 1 If one does not come soon with anj munition for me, it will soon be
all over with everybody here. Satti (Lupton's sub-governor) has set
out once more with 700 men to Meshra, and I hope to God he may find
the garrison there alive. I entertain grave appvohonsions about them,
Some thousands of negroes, Dink as and Nnehr, attacked the station at
Gohk, Wo lost 500 men, but the enemy far more. After three days'
iighting the negroes weie driven off by the reservew that haj^tened up
from Bjnr Ghattas,"
At last in October, I received news that a steamer from Khartum bad
amved at Meshra. In spite of the unfavourable state of afiEairs, I was
at that time about to start to jt^in Lupton, in order to be ahle> to avail
myself of the next steamer to Khartum, For this purpose I set out from
my station with all my baggage, I prudently remained to await further
news in company with tSemio, to hunt for several weeks in a district
which we passed through on the way, where game wa» abundant. Tldft
*
EXPLORATIONS IK CIIKTKaL AFKICA.
ill
was a very fortanAte circtunatance for me, I elioiild oUtttiriae hmT»
undoubtcdl J liad to share with Lupton and Slatin« the misfortniie of now
finding myself a prisoner amongst the Mahdi*8 people, A kind Frovi*
dence protected me now, as well as afterwards, in the hard Umes that
followed, and always pointed ont the proper way out of all trDnbles. On
the 31st of October, Lupton wrote me a few lines as follows:—** I shaU
write yon further particulars in a few days. We have had heavy
losses to suffer. I have lost Rafai (Lupton's best leader), and 400 of his
soldiers were killed by the Dinka. Mudir Satti is fighting his way witli
800 men to Meshra el £ek." I must add, that even thus early, Arab
tribes firom the north were making common cause with the Dinka, were
hounding them on« and afterwards fighting in their ranks* From that
time the Mahdi infiuence from the north became more and more par-
oeptible, otherwise the Dinka tribes could never have held out so long-
After this news Irom Lupton X wns again oondemned to a painful
period of expectation. I became more and more reconciled to the idea
of making my escape, in case of necessity, by ^vsy of Lado. A few
days afterwards I received further particulars from Lupton as follows :
" I beg you to do your best to persuade Semio to collect about lOOO of
his people with spear and shiold, as well as all those who have guns,
imad oome to my help* I now see no other way of putting down the
> insurrection than by the help of the Niam Niam chiefs. I am now
collecting Bongo people here, who will march with us against the
Dinkas, Do everything in your power to jiersuad© Semio to lose no
time, and send him to meet me as soon as possible. Bohndorff is here,
but I am afraid I shall not be able to send him to Meshra.**
Such were my prospects after six mouths of long and anxious
expectation. I was, however, glad to fintl Semio ready to hasten at once
to Lupton's help. He took the necessary steps immediately. I myself
^ began to prepare to truverback through the broad Niam Niam country,
! by N'Doruma to Makaraka and Lado. But first I wanted to see Bemio
start with his people to Lupton. I urged him to hapten every day, but
eight days passed before the people were collectetl and set out under his
leadership.
On the 16th of November, 1883, I began my journey to^ the east,
and reached Emin Pasha at Lado in January 1884, after 55 days* march.
After my departure, having been provided with guns and ammunition
by the steamer, Lupton Bey had some success in his long-continued war.
Bchndorff was able to travel to Khartum with the steamer, returning
thither at the end of Decemljer, but all my collections remained behind
in thoBahr el Ghazal province for want of bearers, and were afterwards
lost. With that steamer I received my last letters from Europe, dated
May 1883, Up to March 1886, when I received, at Uuyoro, the first news
of the events of the last years in the Sudan, wo romained nearly
three years in the dark, as to what was going on. Wo could give no
112
EXFLORATfONS IN CENTRAL AFRICA.
credit to tho threatening letters the Mahdi's people seEt tie, tlioiigli,
imfoi'timately, miicli of their contents tiiraetl ont afterwards to he hut
too true,
Emin Pashus province liad been quiet up to the first months of
1884. The insurgent Agahrs had been energetically put down, and the
devastated station Kumbehk at once set up again in order to restore'
commnnicatiou with the Bahr ol GhazaL In vain we waited in Lado
Ibr tbo arrival of a steamer. Tho successes of the Dinkaa were too
tempting for the other negro tribes, and so in Emin Pasha's province
also the rebellion assumed more formidable proportions* In February
1884, Ghebft Shambe, with tho whole garrison, fell into the hands of the
negroes. The station Bor too, had, later on, a hard struggle to sustain,
and finally not only the garrison, but also the troops hastening to its
help, were all put to the sword. In cousideratiou of theso circum-
stances Emin Pasha gave order* to give up all stations in Latuka, east
of the Nile, and drew his troops nearer together. After many letters
from Lupton in tho first months of 1884, in which ho s|>eaks confidently
of his sncoeases against the rcl>elfls we were without any news from him
for a long timo. At last, on tho 23rd of May, we received letters from
him, dated tlie 3rd, 7th and 12th of April. In the last letter he says :
" The army of the Mahdi is btit nix bonrs from the Mudirieh. I &hall
fight to the last moment. If I fjill send my last rememlirances to those
dear to me." Lupton enclosed tbe copy of a long threatening letter in
Arabic to the people of Bahr cl Ghazal, meant to convert tho people to
belief in Mohamed Ahmed tho Mahdi. With heavy hearts, we spent
the following days with Emin Pasha. But wo were not to remain long
in uncertainty. Tbe news received at the same time of the dcKtruction
of Hicks Pasha's army could not remain a secret to the people of the
|>rovince. The most various reports were already in circnlation about
it. Tbe destruction of Hicks Pasha's army had now to serve us as an
explanation why no steamer had been sent from Khartum, in spite of
Lupton's last pressing reports in December, On the 27t]i of May,
Emin Pasha 3n%^ited me early in the morning to his divan. Full of
troubled thoughts I hastened to bim. Letters from the Eabr cl Ghazal
province lay open before him. With streaming eyes he handed me one
addressed to myself. The inevitable misfortune had happened. The
Bahr cl Ghazal province was in the hands of the Mahdi's troops. The
letters which had come in were from a certain Emir Kami Allah,
representative of the Mahdi, in whoso name he had occupied the
province. In a long letter to Emin Paslia he demanded of the latter
the surrender of his province likow^ise* A second letter in Lupton's
name, \irritten in Arabic, coufirmod the surrender of the Bahr el Ghazal
province. This letter had Lupton's seal to it, and the following
words in English : ** I helieve all that is written above to be true. But
as you aro older and more expci ienced than I, I shall give you no advice
as to what is to he done,"
EXPLORATIONS IN CENTRAL AFRICA,
418
Various threaten in g letters to th© officials of the province sought to
Convert the people to believe in the Mahdi, There was likewise a circular
to the entire Mahommedan populiition from Mohamed Ahmed, the Mahdi.
In th© letter from Emir Kann Allah to Em in Paeha, tho latt^.r was
required to come inimeilialely with his people into tlio Bahr el Ghazal
territory, to start on his journey to Kordofan, to tho Mahdi. Lupton
wrote in a few words to me» that he was to set out in a few daj^ to
Mohamed Ahmed, Emir Karm Allah's letter to mo was as follows : —
'*29th Dfumad Acliir, 1300,
**In the name of God the All-merciful, &c., &c. The slave of
<Tod, Emir Karm Allali, Sheikh Mohamed, to Dr. Junker the traveller.
After my greetings to you I give you to know, O traveller ! you
have certainly heard that the times have changed, and that tho power
of the Turks is broken, through the appearance of the successor of the
Prophet of God, whom we have expected, our Lord Mohamed el Mahdi,
all hail to him ! You have aUo heard how he has rei>eatodly destroyed
the armies of the Turks, Finst, at the island of Ola ; secondly, tlie army
whoso leader w^as Eashid Bey, called Abu Euka, the Mudir of Fashoda ;
thirdly, tho large army under the command of Yuauf Pasha es Shelali,
and vdth him experienoed and skilful people, to the number of 9000
men ; fourthly, the army under the command of Mohamed Pasha Imam,
to the number of 12,000 men; fifthly, the conquest of the Mudirieh of
Kordofanj sLxthly, the army of the (lOvenior-General of the Sudan,
Aladdin Pasha ^ an officer of the Staff called Ilicks, and a number of
Mudirs and officers, and with them strange cannon, seven of them five-
grooved mitrailleuses, and among them seven Krupp cannon, and tho
remainder well-tried cannon from tho time of Ismail Pasha. Altogether
36 cannon, and seven rocket batteries, and altogether 36,000 men and
more; and all were killed hy the followers of the Mahdi, all hail to
' him I how in the twinkliog of an eye took place the conquest of all the
Mndiriebs of tho Sudan, and their subjection under the sway of tho
Mahdi ; how tho Mudiriehs of Dongola, Berber, Khartum, Taka, Sonaar,
' and Fashoda, and in the west, Fasher, Kolkol, Korkobik, and others,
have become friends of the Mahdi, all hail to him ! And he sent me aa
his representative from his sfde, provided with orders and commands
under his sacred seal, to the Bahr el Ghazal province, to bring it from
the darkness into the light ; and on Tuesday the 20 th of the current
month of this year we arrived at tho principal town of tho Mudirioh
Bahr el Ghazal, and were received by all the authorities and the Mudir,
and all subjected to the commands of the Mahdi, all hail to him I and
ready to travel with me to Kurdofan; and as you have goods lying here
(Emir Karm Allah meant my collections lying thero)jand as I am a&aid
that the roads vdll remain closed to you fur the future, I have addreseed
these directions to you, that you may start at receipt of this, and como
414
EXPLORATIONS IN CENTRAL AFRICA.
her© and receive your goods withont delay, and if not, the goods will
certainly be abandoned and lost, and in conclusion my greetinp^s.
Beal
o
Karm Allah Mohamed."
Emir Eann Allah's letter about the surrender of the province received
a carefully worded answer from Emin Pasha, that he was ready to deliver
the province into the ban da of the representative of the Mahdi in order
to prevent uselesiS bloodfihed. The hostility of the negroes, however,
such was the further tenor of the letter, did not pemiit Erain Fasha to
leave the province and expose all that remained behind to the danger of
destruction. Emin Paaha would therefore wait for further orders and
a representative. Till then he should try to hold the province for the
Mahdi.
Erom the great distanoe of the Bahr el Ghazal province, Emin Pasha
gained time, which was above all things necessary. Possibly, on the
one hand help might come from Khartum, on the other hand outlying
stations might bo called in and a defence organised. For this purpose
orders were at once given. Socm after this, in order to despatch our
letters to Uganda and Zanzibar, I travelled to Kmin Pasha's southern
stations^ and reuiained for a considerable time at Dafli. About this
timo the negro tribes on the route to the Bahr el Ghazal rose and killed
many Arabs, who, in various bands from Makaraka and the Eohl terri-
tory, "wt^ro marching to join Emir Karm Allah. Other hordes of Arabs
began hostilities against some outlying stations not yet called in, and
finally, in the last months of the year 1884, besieged the fortified
station of Amadi, only five days from Lado. In the hope that a
steamer would at last come from Khartum, I returned to Lado in
September. For months we had heard nothing more of the Mahdi's
forces, and were almost giving ourselves up to the hope that Emir
Karm Allali's men had withdrawn to Kordofan. The besiegers of the
Amadi station had, up to the end of the year, several times received
reinforcementa of Arabs. Once they had been driven back with loss,
till all at once, in January 1 885, we beard that the Emir Kann Allah
had appeared with his troops before Amadi. Once more letters camo
to Emin Pasha, and threatening letters to various people. At that
time I had again started for the soutb, to the chief Anfina, in th©
country of the Magungos, on the Victoria Kile. During a residence of
some months I endeavoured to despatch thence our letters to Uganda,.
In April I received news from Emin Pasha that the station Amadi was
taken, and that a part of the gaiTJson had cut their way through to
Makaraka. ^Yith tho help of the soldiers from Mangbattu, the pursuing
Arabs were soon put to flight, after a hard struggle, at the station Bimo,
in Makaraka. Makaraka was, however^ evacuated, and the soldiers,
reached the Nile at the station Beddeo, whence they were immediately
EXPLORATIONS IK CENTRAL AFRICA.
All
ordered to Lado to the defence of the station. Emir Kann AUahj after
tho fall of the station Amadi, notified to Emin Pasha that ho should
fioon appear before Lado, and sent on this occasion, among odiers, the
! following letter : —
*' nth Eahi Af'hir, 1302,
" Copy of a gracious order of our Lord the Mahdi — ail hail to him !
to his representative Karm Allah, Sheikh Mohamcd, Emir of the Bohr
el Ghazal, and the Hat el Estwa (Equatorial Province), dated the 12th
Eabi Achir, 1302 (2sth January, 1885). In the name of God, the All-
MercifnU the All-Pitiful! Praise to God, our gracious Lord! and oui*
prayers and submission to our Lord Mohamed and his ! And after these 1
Prom God*fi dtjvoted slave, Mohamed el Mahdi, son of Abdallah, to his
dear friend and representative Karm Allah, son of the Sheikh Mohamed,
ivhom God in Ilis goodness enlighten and protect with the eye of His
'vdlll Amen. Receive from me many greetings, and the mercy of God,
iind His blessing on thee I I give thee to know, my dear friend, that
according to God's infallible promise and His unchangeable goodness,
the town of Khartum has been taken by the help of the Living and
Hverlasting One, and indeed on Monday the 9 th of Habi Achir of the
current year, early in the morning, through the help of the troops of
the Faith, who advanced and stormed the works, trusting in God, the
Lord of the Worlds and in about half an hour, or less, there befell the
enemies of God what was appointed fur them : tbey were destroyed tci
the last man, and their fortress; though they had prepared theinselves
in their btrengtb, they fell scattered at the first attack on the field, under
the hands of the Army of God and tbe troops of the Faith, and sought
safety by entering into courtyards and closing the gates. Our army
followed them, and killed them with the sword, and pierced them with
the lance, so that lamentations soon were loud, and weeping increased,
4ind they were all subdued. Then they laid hold on the rest, who had
ehut their doors from fear of the approach of harm, and took them
<;aptive and killed them, and there remained of them only a few women
land children.
" But Gordon, the enemy of God, how often soever we have exhorted
liim, and bidden him cea8e» and submit himself to God, yet he never
would, and indeed, because he was a rebel and a disturber froui iho
beginning. So ho found the end of his fate, and reaped with repentance
what he had sown in crime ; and God banished him to the house of His
wrath, his abiding place ; and so the multitude of the ungodly were
^lestroyed, and thanks be to God therefore, the Lord of the World ; and
to whomsoever has deserved it, may fire be appointed as a punishment,
or Paradise as an abiding place, through God's appointment; and God
preserve thee from the reprobate I Amen I with tlie consent of the
Most High and Mighty, the Sender of all Good. And of our followei-s
ten died the death of the Faith in this conquest, and of the others none
No. VIL-4PLY 1887.] 2 n
41C
EXPLORATIONS IK CENTRAL AFRICA.
were wounded or 111111. And tliis ia on© of the mercies of God, and from
Him is the victory* and we have thrown onrselves on the earth to thank
Him for the victory of the Faith, And do thou likewise and receive my
greetings.
** TIte represeniatlve of the MaMi in BaJtr el
Ghazal ajid Sat el E»iica^
** KjtEM Allah,"
Before thiB, Em in Pasha had sent the divan, with the writers and their
families, the Government hooks and documents from Lado to Dufliy
whither he then followed himself, and afterwards remained at Wadelai-
After the last organisation of the concentrated troops, about 150O
soldiers were distribnted among the gfations, Lado, Regaf, Bcdden, Kiri,
Muggi, Lahoro, Chor Ain, Dufli, Wadelay, and Fatiko. After the fall
of the station Araadi, the insnrgents were daily expected before Lado.
But news soon came that they had returned to the Bahr el Gbazal by
forced marches, a circumstance at that time inexpIiealdB to ns, after the
advantages they had gained. Perhaps the Malidi had given the Emir
Karm Allah special orders on the advance of the English at the time of
the fall of Khartum. Suffice it to say, that fiom this time forward, Em in
Piisha's province wf^s no longer molested by attacks of the troops of the
Mahdi. Some lat'cr hostilities and attacks of the Bari negroes were re-
pulsed by the soldiers of Lado and Regaf. 1 returned in Kovember
1885, from Anfuia to Wadelai, as I bad found out that all our letters to
Uganda by this route were intercepted. On the 2nd of January, 1886, I
left Emin Pasha and Casati, the Italian traveller, for the thii-d and last
time. Crossing the Albert Nyanza Lake, I went on to Kibiro, and to
Kabrega's, king of Unyoro. Here, at last, I succeeded in learning with,
certainty, that there was still a missionary station at Uganda. After
much trouble I managed to put myself into secret communication with
them by writing. The first letters from the missionary Mackay, in
Uganda, brought mo lieuter's telegrams^ about the events in the fSudan^
gathered together in the course of two years, fuither, a letter from His
Excellency, Nubar Pasha, for Emin Pasha, a letter from Sir John Kirk^
English Consul-General, at Zanzibar, and one from Said Burghasb, Sultan
of Zanzibar. This joyful day for me occurred in the month of March
last year. At the same time Mackay wrote me, that Muanga, king of
Uganda, had caused the English bishop, Hannington, to be murdered,
and that Dr. Fischer's expedition, sent out by my brother to seek me, had
not received permission to pass through Uganda. Mackay advised me te-
nse the greatest caution and patience, and not to enter Uganda i-ashly^
Thus, to tho many sufferings I had already undergone, there was^
added a forced halt of some months on the borders of Uganda. During
this time I was severely injured by an nnfortnnate accident, and, to
crown all, I was deserted by my bearers* In the meantime war had
EXPLORATIONS IX CENTRAL AFRICA.— DISCnSSION, 417
■broken out between tlit^ Wa-ganda and the Wa-njoro. Thus it was not
till the month of Jiina, after I had already been given ont for dead in
TTganda, that I received King Muanga^e permission to enter his capitaL
I there fonnd an opportunity to fmrchase 2000 dollars* worth of cloth
from Arab dealers, for Emin Pasha to make dresses for bis men, who in
the last few years had only been able to cover themselves with skins.
From Uganda my way led me in a month and a half over the Victoria
Nyanza^ a passage which, on account of violent contrary winds, lasted
26 days. I then held on southwards to Tabora, a great emporium of
the Arab traders from Zanzibar. I there joined the great ivory caravan
of TippQ Tip, the well-known ivory dealer of Central Africa^ and
reached the coast in his company. Unfortunately^ the close of my
jotuney was marked by a bloody mnrder. A German, H. Giesecke,
representative of the great Hamburg firm, A, Meyer, for ivory, who
likewise had placed himself under the protection of Tippo Tip, in
order to reach the corist, w^as shot one night close beside my tent by
hired murderers. The occasion of the crime was undoubtedly the
jealousy of the Arab traders of Tabora that Europeans began to com-
jH^te with them in the ivory trade. After this event there followed
nnxions houtH and slee]dess nights for me till Providence finally con-
ducted Tue to the coast at Zanzibar. Stanley's expedition has now started
for the rescue of my friend Emin Pasha. I am sure that you all share
my heartfelt wish for its prospero^is and speedy issue. I may also
express the hope that we may soon have amougst us again the poor
European prisoners so long in the hands of the Mahdi'a followers, the
brave and honourable Lnpton and Slatin Bey,
Before the jxiper.
The Chairman in introducing Br. Junker, said they all recognised bim as one
of the most ]>ersistent and successful of travellers in those regiona of Africa wliich
lie to the south of Gordon's provinces and which formed the water-par tiug between
the basins of the Kile, Lake Tsad, and the Congo. Tho Society had Mbwed Dr.
J unker's travels with interest and sympatliy, and he tendered him a cordial wel-
come in the name of the Members.
After the paper.
The Chairman said that since entering the room he had been informed by the
Secretary of the Church Jlissionarj Society, that he had that day received letters
in*m Mr. Mackay, whkh showed that up to date no known harm had befallen Emin
Fash a,
Mr. EuoESE Stock (of the Church MLsaionary Society) said that the letters
received that day from Uganda were to some extent anticipated by a Ileuter*s
telegram from Zanzibar about seven weeks ago, which stated that Mr, Mackay and
the French priests were well on the 24th January. The letters just received came
down to January 2nd, They had com© ucroaa the Yictoria Njanza in the EUanar
Mission-boat, and then were carried from the south end of the lake hy the mail men
who were kept nmning every two months a distance of 700 miles to the coast.
The boat was entirely navigated hy Africans and went regularly backwards and
forwards between Uganda and the south end of the lake. It was evideut that that
2 H 2
418
EXPIOUATIONS IN CENTRAL AFRICA.— DISCCSSION.
lioat aod the Kiail men brought the news from EtQin Pasba wbich had reached Dr.
Felkin. It was a great IiappiDess to the Chtirch Missionary Society that their boat
and mail arrangemeiitH had been stibservient to the cause of those great travellers
whom every member of the Geographical Society delight€^d to honour. Mr, Mackay
mentioned that there had been for a time a ctsaation of the massacres which took
place Bome time ago. Althougb I ho adherents of both the English and French
Miedons had to be careful and more or less keep in coricealtnent^ yet they were able
to meet together from time to time, and lie gave a little nccount of the festivities
which took place last Christmas. Be waa in some favour with the king at that
time owing to a particular incident. He had on several occasions pat up a great
flagstaff, first for Mtesa and then for Mwanga, hut that flagstaff had a habit of fallin^c
down, and he was always called in to prop it xip again. He had now performed the
feat again, and in consequence of that he was io favour wnth the kiog, Mr» Mackay
also mentioned the supplies sent on by Dr. Junker to Emin Pasha, aod stated that
ivory was being brought to Uganda, and that was a key which would open many
doors. That might |>artly account fijr the favour with which he was regarded. He
(Mr. Stock) would take the opportunity of correctiog a common mistake. Because
Mr. Mackay was so exceedingly clever with his hands it was often supposed that
he was an artisan, but he was an educated Saitoh geDtlemaOt a mechanical engineer
by ]>rofeflfiion, who kept himself aw cmtrunt with what took place in the civilised
world, and particularly with the ' Pixioeedings * of the Itoyal Geographical Society.
Sir Francis de Winton said that among the many instmctiona which be
received from the authorities at Brussels before proceeding to the Congo, none were
more urgently impressed upon him than that he should do whatever was in hia
j>ower to ascertain the whereabouts of Dn Junker and other Euroi^eaDS who were
travelling in some part of Central Africa, He need hardly say what pleaf^ure it
would have given him as Administrator- General to have received news of Dr. Junker,
but that was unfortunately denied him. Between Dr, Junker s southernmost point
at Sanga. and Stanley Falls there was a considerable distance, which in Africa was
rather difficult to overcome. He therefore bad not the honour and pleasure of
welcoming Dr. Junker to the Congo Free State, but he shared with all present the
pleasure that they felt in seeing him among them at that meeting. It must have
been noticed how very little Dr. Junker had said aliout himself and his doings in
the interesting paper he had read, and bow much stress ho had laid upon the work
that had been performed by Lupton Bey and Emin Pasha. The modest description
that Dr. Junker had given of his own work enhancetl the value of that work. To
anybody accustomed to tmvel in Africa the tracing of his wanderings on the map
meant a great deal — daily marches in the hot sun, great patience, great endurance,
and the us© of all those faculties which went to make up the true African traveller.
They would all agree that Dr. Junker possessed all those faculties in a mo^t remark-
able degree. The routes which be had so carefully marked out would be found very
valuable to the cartographer and the student of the geography of that portion of
Africa. He had settled many questions with regard to the watershed between the
Congo and the Nile^ and had brought about friendly relationa between the natives
and the white men. That was a great thing in Africa* The white man following
the Arab had always great difficulties to encounter, because the Arab course througk
the country meant the collection of ivory and slaves. Kotbing was more gratifying
in connection with Dr. Junker** travels than the fact thflt he was able to traverse
the country a tier the Arabs had been in possession of it. It was now known that
for the present Emin Fn^iba was relieved fVom any attempts that might be made
against him by the Mahdi's followers. The exi)edition which w^as en route through
the Upper Congo to Stanley Falls would then find its way across country to Wadelai,
EXPLORATiUNS IN CENTRAL AFRICA.-^DISCQSSION. 410
and before the end of the present year he hoped to have some newa of the meetlDp of
:3 tan ley and Emin Pasha. Id describing the advance of the Mahdi's emissftriei from
the north Dr, Juuker gave the idea of a Mahommedan mvasiou into the centre of
Africa* It was well known that the Mahommedan leligion more easily adapted
itself to the negro of Central Alrica than the Christian religion, but when it was
remembered that Christiaoity and civilisation were advancing from the westward by
the Congo, and would come from the eastwartl by the Victoria Nyanza, it was to htj
hoped that it would drive back the Mabommedan invaaioii, and preserve that region
for the benefit of the world in future.
Mr. Paul Dt; Chaillu said that for the last few years he had been bo much
engaged amongst the old Scandinavians, and in studying the archmology of the north
of Europe, that he was sorry to say he had not kept up the study of Africa. He
had» however^ heard a great deal that night which was very plmsing to him. He
could quite appreciate ttio hardships which Dr. Junker had undergone- When he
first went to Africa he was eighteen or nineteen years old and did not mind hard-
ships, but he did now. When ho first described the cannibal country, he stated
that he had been told that many tribes were cannibals and tbat it was not known
where cannibalism ended. He also stated ttiat the dwarfs^ whom he ctxlled Olwngos,
were a wandering tribe, and they told him themselves that they did not know how
far east their people extended. Dr. Junker had also found a great many cannibals
and dwarfs* They were all greatly indebted to Dr. Junker for the account he had
given them of hia travels, and they had great pleasure in welcoming him back safe
from such a diflicult country,
Br. MuniB said tiiat he had not been in Central Africa for twenty yeara, but he
had seen part of the ground travelled ovtir by Dr, Junker, It had been his pleasure
to see the veritable map which Dr. Junker drew of his journeyings, and was delighted
to find how much had been done towards advancing African geography. He him-
self had been to Meshra el Rek and had come down the same route as that followed
by Dr. Junker, not far from Nambara, It apfjeared to him that the great point of
the jm|Ter waa that which concerned the watershed. Apart from the political
(jueatiou with regard to the various tribes, pure geograpbera were interested in the
great point that was now left to be settled with regaM to C-entral Africa. There
were three great rivers all springing from the centre of the continent. The Nila
was the best known and the most celebrated, and one of the discoverers of Its sourco
(Colonel Grant) was present in that room. It^ great source was the large lakea
centrally situated near Equatorial Africa, The origin of the Congo was also in the
same lake region in marshy ground, but further down it took a great turn to the
west ; but there waa still another large river whose source had not yet been settled.
He alluded to the Niger, At tbe present moment people were very apt to regard
the Congo as the greater river because of the enormous body of water which it
brought down, but which was confined in a narrow bed between high ranges before
it flowed out to the sea. At the mouth of the Nile there was an enormous delta, and
in various f«rts of its course the river spread itself out such as the Bahr el Ghazal.
The sources of the great rivers of Africa were no doubt lakes and morasses, but
where did the lakea and morasses get the water? The rainfall of Africa was
peculiar. The monsoon, if the expression might be used, extended from 10° N, to
10*^ 8., and there was a double monsoon as the sun went backwards and forwards,
so that, as Livingstone and other travellers had mentioned, there was a very great
amount of moisture there. The watershed appeared to be at alx)ut 2^ N, of the
equator, and the Welle flowed westward. Other travellers had seen another river
running north to the other side of tht? bend of ihe Congo, and very ingeniously a line
had been drawn on the map bringing the Welle right into the Congo. Ho did not
420 NOTES ON PART OF THE WESTERN FRONTIER OF BRITISH HONDURAS.
say th&t it was not so^ but lb wag not yet proved to bin satisfaction that the Welle
fell into tbe Congo: he was mther inclined to Ibink that it went to the Niger. Ho
"wbhed to ask Dr. Junker what was the nature of the country at the farthest point
which he had reached. From LaJo (Gondokoro) down to Unyoro it was a rolling
©ountry with ranges of hills. 1'he whole plain north of that was a more or less
flat land with no great elevations, but with enormous forests. What reason there-
fore was there for the Welle flowing south? He wished to ask Dr, Junker what
reasons he had for believing that the AVelle joined the Congo. Another question
be wished to ask was where would they place the origin of the Niger? For modesty
of speech, for the length of time ha had remained in Africa, for truthfulness in his
leacription of the people, the Makarakas, Niam Niams, and others, for the immense
nattiral history collections that be had made, they were all greatly indebted to
Dr* Junker, and they trusted that in future they should hear a great deal more
from him.
Dr. JuNEER, in reply, said that when he reached Zanzibar in December last, he
had not the least idea of the discussion that was going on about the Mobangi, Since
ho had heard of Mr, Grenfeirs journey up that northern tributary of the Congo be
thought it very likely that the Welle-Makua ran into it. When he was in the
region he thought that the natural thing for it to do was to go into the Shari, but
as the Mobangi was GOOO or 7000 feet wide at its mouth the question was where
that great supply of water came from,
A cordial vote of thanks having been given to Dr. Junker for Ms paper the
proceedings terminated.
Notes on a fart of the Western Froniier of Briiish Honduraa.
By William Milleb, Aasktant Surreyor-General Britislt Honduras.
The portion of country eh own on tlio accompany iug map extends from
kt. 17^ 3' 40" to 17° 5D^ 27" N., a part of British HonduriLs concerning
wliich all existing maps are more or leas erroneotis, and of which wo
have just completed the survey.
I am sorry that I Lavo not time to supply the Society with a more
finished map. Thofirm hlack line shown as the frontier on the plan has
been cleared through the bush for the entire distance shown^ and has
been cut 12 feet wide. Several aurveyors have been in charge of the
party at different times, and had to return to Belize on account of
sickness, which is caused chiefly on account of want of good water. For
the last twenty-three miles I was myself in charge of the work, so I can
assure you that the map is correct.
It will he seen that for a considerable distance the line runs through
logwood swamp, but in all other parts fine timber grows; all the
varieties common to this part of the globe being present, as mahogany,
sapodtlla, rosewood, &c. The portion of land available for cuUivation is
very small, and I found no indication of minerals, the hills being all of
a limestone formation. No open country was met with, the thick bush
.>>*
PI*n of Pbrtion of
thaWsstarn Frontier of the Colony of
BRITISH HONDURAS
^iibhsKti far ti%M Firoe9edgngs of ths Bayml Gwyv^cplOGAl Socvcty . IfttH
422 NOTES OX PART OF THE WESTERN FRONTIEII OF BRITISH HONDURAS.
only giving waj to tlio logwcKxl swamps, which are full of a very
unpleasant, tall, tough grasa, about 12 feet high, called verj ajrrectly
'* cutting grass," which will adhere to anything which t'Ouchea it, and^
nolesa carefully put off, it will cut through thick clothing, and naake a>
nasty gash in the flesh.
These swamps, ho%rever, are full of orebitls of many species, the
beauty of which takes off some of the monotony of working through
these somewhat dismal swamps. I'he bush was bo lliick that -with a
gang of fift}^ men I could only cut tbroiigh half a mile per day,
Chan Cheech creek, which will he fo«nd marked, ia iu the dry season
only a succession of pools, hut in the wet season it is a rushing roaring
river, and at this time the whole of the low lands are under water,
whilst in the dry season no water is obtaiiialde. This creek no doubt
connects with Btx)th's rivor or the Eio Bravo, but no person has followed
it up to settle this point.
The long narrow lagoon at the northern end of the line marked
" Ishnoha creek ** joins Blue creek at the point shown. Ko white man
has followed this down, but we have this information from an Indian-
I tried to follow it, and went so far as shown upon the map, where I
was stopped by thick, prickly bamboo, armed all over with sharp spines,
about an inch long, through which it was impossible to penetrate.
Although game of all kinds was met with all along the line it was
not so plentiful as might bo supposed. The following species were shot
at different times i — Antelope, peccary and waree, gibnut, l>aboonB,
quash, arniadilla, and of birds, the quam, currasow, partridge, and
toucan. The only place, however, where game alwunded was upon
Ishnoha lagoon, where birds were met with upon every tree, and so tame
that they did not fly away at our approach. There were cranes, car-
penter birds, and the big barking gaulin, and the alligators were so
thick that they could bo seen at almo«?t every few yards, and so Ix^ld
that they attacked a rough log w^hich I had had hollowed out to form a
canoe in which to explore the river, and we had to shoot them to keep
them off.
The villages show^n on the map are inhabited by Indians, but Cayo-
(usually called ** The Cayo *') is an exception, as the great majority of
the inhabitants there aro negroes ; and at Benqueviejo they are half-
breeds of mixed Spanish and Indian descent.
The Indians of these villages are not savages. They cultivate the
soil and grow maize, rice, and beans, and raise pigs and fowls. They
are, however, to a certain extent dangerous, as bo lately as 1872 they
made a successful raid on, and burnt. Orange Walk, one of the chief
U)wj^& of the colony, where there was a fort and a gan-ison. They are
armed to a considerable extent with old Enfield rifles and the machete^ a
kind of cutlass, without which travelling is impossible in this country.
All the roads which I have marked are mere paths through the bush.
RUSSIAN GEOGRAPHICAL WORK IN 1886.
43S
the majority of them so l>ad tliat even a mtile could not travel on them.
The ro*id from The Cayo to Benqueviejo is, however, an exception
as it k a well-cut road of ahout 24 feet wide, and in diy weather very
good for mule traffic.
The position of Ycaicho has always been doubtful, but I think I
have marked it on just about correctly as 30 miles to the northward of
the head of the frontier. The doulrt concerning this town is to Ijo
accounted for by the terror which the Ycaicbe Indians inspire. Last
Christmas, I applied for leave to visit this town, but j)ermissiun was
refused by the Colonial Government. The town is descrilKjd to me as
being of considerable size, but scattered ; and there are suppused to bo
abont 2000 fighting men there, I'hese Indians dress in tronsei-s and
cotton shirts, and their staple food is the tortilla cake made of pounded
maize baked over the fire into little round flat cakes. They have a
rough idea of municipal self-govomment and elect alcaldes among
themselves, who have powers to try and to pnnish oSenders*
WiLLUM Miller,
Amstant-iSnrvtyor Oeutral BM,
Belize, Beitish Hondubas, 2ld Mart^^ 1887.
littssian Geographical Work in 1886.
From Eussian Sources, by E. Delmab Morgan.
1, Woi'k of the Imperial Eumian Geographical Bocid^*
'9mm the Okhot (Report) of the Bussian Geographical Society for 1886, we loarii the
lamm hy death of its members have been unusually severe during the past year.
AltKWig the geographers meDtionetl in the obituary record ore those of Abich, who
devoted about thirty of the liCMt years of bis life (1844 to 1877) to the study of the
geology of the Caucasus, ami whoso name will live for ever in its annals; Abramof,
whose article on the KarateghiQ was translated for our Journal (vol. xlL). He too
Initiateti Fadchenko's expedition to the glacier named after this naturalist, aud to
Iskandtfr Kul, as well aa that to the Alai, FaDiirt and boundaries of Kashgar, where
Buch tncn as Middendorf, Mui«hk^tof, and 8evertzof found a field for their taloots.
Among utber well- known names loat to science is that of Poltoratski, who, together
with Blajor-General llyio, founded the cartographical establishment now known under
the name of his colleague. Poltoratski gave great assistance to the first liuissian
explorations in Central Asia, and himacll led the Chatir Kul expedition in 1867,
which first crossed the Naryn and brought Hussian surveys to Kaahgar (* Journal,'
vol. xl). Lastly, we must not omit mention of R, K. Maack^ one of the first
travellers on the Amur, m the Ussuri country, which he explored iu 1857, and in
the Viliui district, giving to the world the results of his invt'sligations in three
sepanite works relating to each of these journeys.
Tbe Heport goes on to speak of recent expeditions organ i^d by the Society.
f*irat, that of Potanin, lately noticed in our VProceedings ' (May 1887), in which
three branches of geographical science hsu\ their representatives, viz. ethnography,
in the person of M. Potania himself; Datural history, in that of M. Berczin; and
424
RUSSIAN GEOGRAPHICAL WORK IN iSStJ.
topography, in cliarjre of M. Skasai, The personnel of this expedition, too, ww
remarkable, owing to the fact that Mine. Potanin uliarcd its haidsliips and
privations, accoiiipanying her hugband throughout his three years' wauderings in
boutheru Mongolia, Western Chiria, and on the ooufines of Tilxjt. Another
expedition explored the magnificent Khan Tengri group of mountains in the Thian
Shao, whosa summits soar up to a height of 22,000 and 24,000 feet With
regard to this group M. Mushkdtof gives some interesting particulars. Khan Tengri
is situated betvveen 42^ and 43° K. lat,, and is remarkable as the ]iomt where the
Thian Shan, extending eastward as a narrow, though lofty range, develops into a
wider and more complicated system, affording a diJference so striking as to have led
some explorers to diHiiuguish the wetiteni Thian Shan as a separate range under the
name of the highlands of Turkijstan.
The relation of Khan Tengri to the folded ridges of the Thian Shnn, is of equal
or even greater importance than that of Muatag-ata to the Pamir ; its orography
and stratigraphy therefore demand investigation in order to elucidate the origiu
and Btrncture of the system of which it forms so conspicuous a centre. In hke
•manner, the iieientific iutereiit attaching to the glaciers of Khan Tengri may be
readily com^xared with that of Mount Elbruz in the Caucaaiia, the more so, as the
Thian Shan system is generally dtficieut in j^lacial phenomena, while on the other
iaand, when these do occur they are on a most imixising scale. Thus the glaciers ot
Khan Tengri are probably quite as extensive, if tbey do not surpass, those of thu
Zarafshan and Mnk*su. Lastly, the volcanicity of Central Asia may best be studied
here, for though it ha*i hn^en amply proved in recent years, that the opiniras of Hum-
boldt and others regarding active volcanicity in Central Asia* have no foundation in
fact, there yet remain abnnthint indications of the presence of typical volcanic rocks,
and from the scanty data yet CJ^Ilccted, it is probable that although Khan Tengri is
chiefly built up of granites and schists-, analogous to those of the Terske Alatau,
Musart, &c,, there are nevertheless amonj? its comixjneot rocks recent volcanic forma-
tions. These and othtr considerations pironipted the Eussian Geographical Society
to organise an expedition to investigate. Travellers hare hitherto admired its
stupendous size trom a distance, but none have approached Khan Tengri closely,
except P. P, Semeonof, who in 1857 penetmtefi to the glaciers of Sary-jas and first
drew attention to their imjiortance. In those days, thirty years ago, travelling in
Central Asia was very different from what it is at the present time. Then a journey
to those regions could not be accomplished without great discomfort and some risk,
now the ordinary tourist may visit them and the naturallat pursue his investigations
without fear of interruption.
It had been intcndeii to &end two expeditions in 1885, but owing to the absence
of its leader, J. V. Jgnatief, on other duties, a start was not effected till the following
year. The point of departure was Karakol,| a Russian settlement at the east end ot
• Since thefio linea were written a grent earthquake has been reported from Veray,
by which that town has been nearly destroyed, and a region about a thousand verata in
extent has been alft'cted.
t Karokol is t lie capital of the district of the fame name, and an outpost of Huissian
civilisation in the* Thian Shan. Its raud walls ami gardens give it an Eastern apptar-
ance, hut the present town is entirely modern, having been founded :^incc tho annexa-
tion of the L'outitry by I1(lls^ift. The basaiar h worth Boeing from the variety of types and
nationalities frequenting it. Hen^ tuibaned Sarts and pig4aiiird Dungana eit in little
shops andtipeii booths Belling Iho produco of the country. About twrt-nty milts fiom
Kiirakul tho ruins of an ancient town are visible on the south eliore of Issyk-kul.
Its walls are iniboddeil in aand^ but various urtitles, euch as copper veestls, Chinese
RUSSUN GEOGRAPHICAL WORK IN 188(J,
425
Lake Issyk-kiil, wliere A. N. Krasnof, a botaoist of some repute, joined it, Uia
flpecial object was to study tke flora of the hi2;li sqow and ice reg:it'nB of tbt*
Thiaa Shan, and compare this with that of the Polar regions recently worked up
by Yeit Br^cher Wittrock* : to deterinine the vertical distribution of plant-life
on Khaii Tengri, and compare this with corrc3[x>ijdiDg zones in the hotter-known
regions of the Trane-Ili and Kung^ AlaUu chains. Moreover, M, Kmanofs knowledge
of the Aralo-Casptan flora would enable him to deduce some interesting comparisotjjs
l^tweeiL it and that of the sand and clay wastes bordering on Lake Balkhash and
with the transitional forma met with on enterini^ the mountains. From these
aspects the sands of Tau-kum, the lower Hi plains, und Trans-Ili mountains possess
an exceptioutd interest for the botanical geographer, their recent lacustrine and
riverine sedimentary deposits never yet having been hotanicaiiy investigated, while
the oldest flora of the higher regions up to and including the snow-line aSbrds
unequalled opportunities for comparison.
With rcference to this exijodition J. V. Ignatief has communicated the following
rejxjrt: — '* Starting from Karakol on the 16th(Ii8th) July, 1886, we crossed the out-
lying spurs of the Thian 8han, the rivers Jerghea and Boeechuk to the Turgen-aksu
which we ascended to the valley of the Sari*jas and up this to the glaciers dis-
-covered by P, P. Semeonof in 1857, Wo were then obliged by a heavy snowfall to
retreat to the valley of the Kok-jar-karkanw The large glacier at the sources of
the Sari-jas, called by l\ P. Semeonof a rner de giace^ we named after liim, and
another, at the sources of the Adir-tur, * Mushk<JtofJ Our topographer Alexandrof
made an instrumental survey of Semeonof glacier and measured its rate of move-
ment. Muahk^tof glacier was half inatrumentally surveyed by Khludof* At tho
sources of a left tributary of the Sari-jas wo discovered another glacier, the Iniichik.
From the valley of the Sari-jas we descjetided to that of the Tekea by a new pass,
^aryn-kol, on which there is an overlapping glacier, Tura-jorga. By the
16th{28th) August, we were at * hunters* settiement,* whence we made an excursion
to Borodobosup and from this point took a photograph of Khan Tengri, On the
22nd August (3rd September), I with the draoght«man Khludof, six Cossacks,
three jigits and an interpreter went to Musart, while the topographer was engaged
in measuring trigonometrical ly the height of Khan Tengri from the Baian-gol
Valley, taking Hunters* Station as zero» The deduced height of the peak was found
to bo 24,000 feet above sea-level.
*^The Musart Pass has an elevation of 12,000 feet above sea-level. We followed
the defile to its southern termination at Yaman-Kivrgan where the mountains end,
and the road to Aksu enters the steppes. Trace.^ of ancient gkfcciers were found at a
height of 6800 feet above sea-level on the sotithern slope of the defile, which bad
therefore been completely filled with ancient glaciers, for the marks on the sonthern
aide, where atmospherical desintegration had taken little effect, were plainly visible,
■while on the northern side there was no trace of them at 6800 feet The Thian
Shan at the Musart consists of granite, sienite, gj^psum, diorite, marbles and azoic
schists, white marbles being predominant at the summit of the jjass. The strati-
:
bricks, &ai are occusionatly brooght to light, and I saw a number of coibs with
nearly obiiterated inscriptiOTis* »tiid to datt> from the thirteenth century. About five
milts fr^im Kartikul there ure Bome hctt itpt ings where the water comes up boiling. The
road to Musart from Karakol in divided into seven stages, and paasKiS through Russian
settlemontd.
* Cf. * Ueber die Schnet- nnd ICiisflorii beaontlers in den Arktiuchcn Gegeuden,'
fonuing part of NordenskicJld's * Studien nnd Forechungen* (Leipzig, 1H85), pp. G7-119.
The author here quoted is the most recent authority on Arctic iloru.
426
RUSSIAN GEOGRAPHICAL WOEK IN' 1886.
graphical cooditionB of the Musart are mucli inTolved, the kyera have a strike
north-east to soutb-weat^ and north-west to south-east ; in the latler case, the azoia
Mchista are upUfted hy mtrudiog dio rites.
" On the 7th(19th) SeptcmbtT, we retcroed to Karakol, whence we made a bcMit
excursion on Issik-ktil lake."
M, A. N. Krasnof has comraunicatetl the following particulars with rererence to*
his hranch of the work, and the reaulta obtained hy him durinj^ the Khan Teogri ex*
l^edition. He imssed the spiiajr oq the lower Hi, ne^ir the risers Kiirtn * aful Kojja^t
thence he went to the watershed of the Chu and Hi, to the Andrakai and Kak-tau J
Mountains, the sands of Tan-kumj§ and to Kaman. In the spring he also skirted the
shore of the Ak-kul gulf^ll and explored the At-lesken hills.^ In the summer he made
excursions in the valleys of the Tekea^ Naryn, and Khirghcjs. July and the beginning
of Augtist he devoted to the exploration uf the highest uplands of the Thian Shan at
the foot of Mount Khan Tengri and the watershed of the rivers Syr-daria and Tarira,
where he discovered new gbciera in the group of Sir-tash and Sari-jas, Having
visited the southern slope of the range and crossed the Bedel Pass to the Chines*^
town of Utch-Turlan the traveller returned by the valley of Issik-kvU to Verny and
thence through Tashkend, Samarkand, Bokhara, and Merv to St. Petersburg.
M, Krasnof ts of opinion that the valley of the Hi once had an entirely different
vegetation to that poaseaaed by it now, and this earlier plant life has completely
perished owing to the desiccation of Central Asia and the consequent change in its
climate. Formerly, says M. Krasnof, the whole flora of the Hi valley was similar to
that still preserved at the foot of the snowy mountains, resembling that of Central
Bussia with its copses of deciduous trees, where the maple, the apple, and the elm
are the prevailing kinds in the midst of w ide tracts of black earth steppe lands, la
many places the black earth still remains distributed much in the same way as ia
EoBsia and similar in character.
At present all the lower chaii:i8 are deprived of the moistui*© they derived from
melting ice-6elds and have changed their flora in tlie most radical way, having now
only Central Asian fum^s. Many of these, though remarkably changed ia fomn»
owing to climatic influences, are nevertheless, according to M. Krasuof, the direct
descendants of the ttusaian black earth flara greatly alteretl, however, by liarder con-
ditions of life. To such fomis thei'e have been added many immigrants from tho
eastern plateau of Asia. These low ridges may be considered as centres of propa-
gation of the forms of vegetable Life best adapted to the arid soil of Ci-ntral Asia.
Of special interest too is the fjict that in many places, owing to the dryness of the
aate, granitea and other hard rocks l>ecume pulverised, and the jxiwder or dust
thus formed collects in large hillocks; these again become covered with the roost
extraordinary forms of plants barely maintaining an existence in the snow-belts, but
here in the sands suddenly deriving new life, and developing into gigantic plants.
* The Klurtu is the la^t of the tributaries of the Dt, entering it on the left about
50 miles below lliL«*ky ferry (hridge?),
t Tlie Kopa flows from west to east llirough a wide vidh-y, dividing the EOH3alletI
Alexatidrofaky Mountains from an outljing ran go to tlie north, and fidls into the
Kurtu.
X The Andrakxii and Kak-lau are prohnbly native names of the range of low jouuded
hills mentioned in the last note* I saw them frum Iho high road ne«ir Pishpck.
§ The Tau-kuui sands form a Ijelt nbunt 30 miles wide, alung the left l>ank of th&
Hi, from the rivt^r Kurtu to L*ike Balks^ah.
II The Ala-kul gulf is the Br»uthernraoat portion of Lake Balkush.
TI The At-htfken hilb align the 3<>uth-we3t shore of Liike Balkanh, tu lat. 45*^ X.
BDaSUX GEOGRAPHICAL WORK IK 1886.
487
The ebores of Bolkash and Ak-kul ttrc, accordiDg to M. Krasnofs description, a
#tony desert where plants, whicli under more favuured circumstanoes are tall cnou^b.
for the Bcythe, attain only a diminutive size, wliilst other parts again are sands,
oivered witk Aralo-Caspian shruba nearly bare of leaves. These sands in M,
Krasnofs opinion, originated in the disintegration of old sandstones. Lake Balkash
has greatly shrunk in ftize, com^mn^d to its former area.
Thtj Ala-kul gulf has wiiter of a bitter saline taat«. It has shrunk so much that
tbe Kirghiz ford that part couuecting it with Balkaeh. The water in Balkasb,
however, is nearly sweet, M» Krasnof did not find one of the rivers shown on the
map as falling into Balkosb from tbe south-west^ all these afiluenta having long
since iinaUy disappeared.
The shores of Balkash are tbe haunt of numerous wild animals. In the lower
reacheji of the Hi are tigers, w*ild asses, kulans * which the Kirghizes take alive, and
<jros8ing them with their own horses olttain iho fastest gaIlopers.+ In July, M.
Krasnof crossed to the bead- waters of the Sari-jas. The glaciers here, three in number,
4ire very dirty, water-worn, covered with pebbles and rapidly disappearing. The
earlier glaciers, as evidenced by gkcial marks, were larger, and descended 40 miles
lower into tbe valley tban at present. There are even now small isolated glaciers,
which are the remnants of former tributaries. Near the Klinya a new glacier was
discovered, and named '* Friede ** in honour of tbe governor of Semirechia.J Tbe
Sir-tash group has seven glaciers, the larjiest of which was named ** Kolpakofsky ■ • in
honour of the governor of tbe steppe country (Western Siberia),
Although the highlands through which flow the rivers Sari-jas and Sir-taab are
Above tbe tree belt and even u]>wards of 10,000 fett, tlieir flora nevertheless does not
bear an alpine character. Alpine meadows with plants mostly common to the
*-*uuca5US, Altai, and Polar SilM*ria, are only preserved on the nortbeni slopes in
Jocalities moistened by the snow ; wherever the warmth of the sun is felt the soil
liccomcs so parched that alpine vegetation cannot exist, and its place is taken
by representatives of tbe wurmwiNxl-covered stejipes of the Turanian lowlands*
Glacier drift of the Syrt is so dry Jis nut to be in a condition to give a start to clayey-
fiandy soils; but the rains, of rare occuiTence, only wash out of it the finest dust
which settles in a thick layer marvcllou«ly like loess, that fertile yellow earth which
sustains tbe whole of China, Hence 11* Krasnof thinks that in many i>arts of Asia
this soil has been formed by light rains gradually washing from the dry crumbled
dt'bris of glacier rivers^ an excectlinjjly fine dust produced by the attrition of ice on
rocks and their disintejiratiou by weather. M. Krasnof entered Chinese territory by
the Betiel Pass, one of tlic best iu this part of the Tliian Shan, The river Bedel in
ita lower course fiows between precipitous cliffs of conglomerate before entering a stony
desert very scantily clothed with vegetation. Beyond this tlie oasis of Turfan is
reiiched, where notwithstanding the elevation, grapes, melons, and nuts mature. There
are even rice plantations, and the lotus is cultivated. The flora of the Issik-kul valleys
ajid of the Tekes is transitional between that of the &yrt« and the northern outliers.
* Kutan is tbe Turk! word for the wild ass, the Tihetati Kinfuj,
t I was very much struck with the peculiar colour and markings of some of the
Kirghiz horses. One iu partipular which carried nie a long day*a miirch over Iho
mountiiinsT had tbe dark titrij^e down tbe spine and iicroas the withers, its colour being
generally ashy grey. The endurance a: these little horses is quite extrftordinary, even
when corrjing a heavj man over a rtmgh and billy country,
% General Friede, chief of Generul Kftulinaon's staft' in the expedition organised
to operate against Chimi in the Kulja district in 1880, Generul Friede, I regret to see,
la reported to Mvq been injured by tbe recent earthquake at Veruy,
428
I^USSIAN GEOGRAPHICAL WORK DC 1BS6.
The general coDchmioniof M. Krasnof may be Bumiuarised as follows ; — Formerly'
the Tliian Shan flora was intcniiedratti hoiwet^ii t!ie Altai mid alpine, and resembled
mora closely that of the central and northern Caucasus. The process of desia\i-
tion began on the e^juth, and sliowed itself by the formation of detritus, retreat of
the glaciers, and disappearance of lakes. It caused the fomiation of loess deposits^
sands and pebble-atrevvn plains, while it diminished the areas of marshes and black
earth deposits* All plants common to polar and alpine regions disiippeared from
the southern slopes and syrts, while coniferous and deciduous arborescent vegeta-
tion also vanishetl from all waterless slothes, tlios© species requiring humidity
haring entirely died out. Wherever the* snou' has ceasetl to lie, the ancient flora
has also perished, only a few species having adapted themsulves to a continental
climate, and assumetl an Asiatic character. Barren tracts are supplied by eiiii-
grants from other arid parts of the continent, while only thoae kinds of the
Thiau Shan flora best adapt^id for removiil are distributed over the plain. These
migrants mingle v?ith other Asiatic forma and select certain soils divisible into four
steppe formations : the worm woo^l, sandy, saline, and stony. The high valleys in
the mountains and the dried lake-beds, lacking moisture, have likewise the same
typical »oi!, and the same vegetation as the plains, the altitude above sea-level having
Ijut little influence on the character of the flora.
The report refers then to A, V. Eliseief's journey in Asia Minor undertaken
for anthropological researches among the various tribes inhabiting Anatolia.
M. Elis^Sief had intended reaching Kurdistan aud Armenia by way of the Caucasus,
hut failing in this oiving to an insurrection among the Kurds, he returned from
Kars to Batum, and thence by steamer to Iskanderuo (Alexandretta.) M. Elis^ief
tried in vain to discover any trace of lUisaian colonics on the coasts of Asia Minor,
He only succeeded in visiting the well-known colony on Lake Mainos,* and leameci
from some of its oldest inhabitants that offshoots were sent to the banks of the Tigri*
or Euphmtes, but where exactly no one could say. The people of Maiuos are
gradually forgetting liuasia, and to many of them it appears quite a foreign country.
There is a church at Mainos and a resident Unitarian clergj'man, Tlie peo])le of
MaiooB are generally uncouth and illiterate, many of them speak Turkish belter than
Bussian, and the general impression made on M, Eliseief was imnful, the more so
when he learned that some of the^e people had served in the late war against Kussia,
and had even earned military rewards.
Having landed at Alexandretta M. Elis<5ief crossed on horseback the Amanus f
and Kizil-dagh Mountains, descend wl tlie Amuk valley, rounded Lake Ak-tenghie,
and reached Antioch. Hence he followed a wild mountain jiath to Aleppoi
visiting on the way a number of luins and caves, and in one of these he discovered
the bones of a pR?historic man* The cavo in which he found them is opposite the
ruins of Koslar-terah From Aleppo, the traveller took the direct route to Beikn,| the
celebrated pass, and thence proceeded to Aintab,§ having made an excursion to
Biredjik f] in order to visit the Arabs of the Euphrates.
• Lake Maniyaa, three hoimi from Aidinjik on the Sea of Msnuora, in lot. 40'^ N.,
lonff. 28° E. The OoBBaok uettlmncnt liere dates from 1770 and was visited by Mr. W.
J. Hamilton in 1838. Cf. * Jonnud It.G »%' vol. viiL p. 13[J.
t The Anmuufl mng© borderii the Gulf of lakanderun ou the east.
X The Beilan Puss or ** Syrian Gatus" leods through the Amanus range from Syria
into Cilieia.
§ Aiiitab stands on lofty heights ovcrlwking the valley of the Tadjur, a trihnlary of
the Euphrates.
II Otherwise called Bir or Bir al Birat, on the Euphrates. It was here, according to
KUSStAN GEOGHAPHICAL WORK IN 1S86.
429^
At Malatia * M, Elis^ief was overtaken "by winter, and could no longer move easflj,
hia natural history collections siiifetiug in projiortion. Having made an excuTsion to
Kharput,t and thence across Uic mountains of Musher to Kehan-inaadeii,t ^^^ left
Malatia vi& Sivaa, Tokat, Amasia to Haiuaun, and thence by sea to Constantinople,
The resalti of his journey comprise 150 sets of anthropoloj^ical observations ; thongk
these arc far from complete they inclnde measure rneols of Arabs iu northern Syria,
Kurds, Kizilbashes, Yczidia, and others, la the mountains of Arabistan he found o
sarcophagus, a stone with a Latin iDscription, several kitchen-middena, and two
nibbinga of stone bas»relief» inscrjlx?d with the names of ancient inhabitants. Hear
Kcban-maaden he met with raenhirrf, and at Kharput opened tombs — round pits in
limestone containing enonnous vessels with bones hnnit and intact.
Prince Masalsky has made a botanical excursion in the Kara district for the
Caucasns Section of the Russian Geographical Society, with the speciU object of
comparing the transitional forms of the Pontine flom with those of Ea&tem Trans-
Caucasia and Armenia, and to determine their horizontal distribution as well as
the vertical distribution of arboreiscent and bosh vegetation* He also intended
ooUectiog observations on cultivated plants with the view of ascertaining the possi-
bility of developing the cnltnre of the orange^ lemon, tea, coffee, and other useful
plants. Prince Masaltsky travelled vi4 Alexandropol and Kars to Kaghizraan, situ-
ate at the foot of the range boitleriug on Turkey and dividing the waters of the
Araxes from those flowing into the Euphrates. Kaghizman was selected as a centml
point for Prince Masalsky*s' excursions in the valky of the Araxes and other
mountainous districts. During these excursions, he visited the Kurdish encamp-
miinta near Yagludji Dichur and Beshkitia, known for their mineral watiers and
the ruins of Neren. He descended the Arpachai along its bank to its confluence
with the Araxes and visited Kulpakh, one of the most ancient salt industries.
From Kagldzman Prince Masalsky ascended the dividing ridge near peak Marmor,
viHited the rich juisture lands of Chascbaclar on the head-water of the Ak-chai,
a right tiihntary of the Araxes. He then ascended the Araxes by Zorab-khan to
Bish-keh, crossed the frontier-nmge near Kess-dagh^ and proceeded viA Kara-knrt
to Sari-kamish on the Ersierum road at the foot of the Soganluk range. Hence ho
made excursions into the Soganluk Mountains, climbing one of its chief peaks,
Surdy-kbatch, and thence passed through Bardus in the basin of the Chordokh to
OUi, Here bo made researches in the 01 ti district and then went on to the Torttim
lake in Turkey, finally returning to Olti and thence to St. Petersburg which he reached
in September. The materials collected by Prinoe Masalsky are nnder examination.
V. A. Fausek received a &mall subsidy for zoo-geographical researches in the
Kumo-Manytch lowlandB,§ where he iind«itook a journey in conjunction with
the Greek legend, that Baochua threw the first bridge aeross the Euphrates preparatory
to IiIb march to tonijner India.
• The Melitene of the Komam*, the wiater town surrounded by irrigating canala
whit'h rendered it m unhealthy that the inhabitants abandoned it when the first
Bunimer heats came for Aspuzi, in a higher valley.
t KLdrput is plaeod on an eminence and oommands a view over an exteuBive and
Jerlilo plain. Its inhabitants appiirently enjoy great prosperity and a temperate climate.
CI Mooraal R. O. S./ vol. vi. p. 207.
X Kebtm-maaden is situated in a ravine abont 30 miles from Kbarput, and derives
its name " Mine f>f the gorge or pass,*' from a recently abandoned mine of argentiferous
land. Ibid., p. 20tJ.
§ The Kumo-Manjtch Imvlands extend in a wide belt from the Sen of Aznf to the
Caspisin. They are well marked throughout by a ieries of long pools of stagnant water
430
RUSSIAN GEOGRAPHICAL WORK IN 1886.
D. L. Ivanof/a geologist. Their routes lay UiTough tlie Caspian dei)re8sion occupied
by the Turkoman aod Kara-Nogai sands to the mouth of the Terek and the shores
of the Caspifltj, a belt 40 miles in width along the Manytch Jsthmns, comprising
the area of the Stavropol Yegorlyks,* the Kalmyk steppe of the great Derbetof uluss,
the horae-breediog region of the Don district, and the environa of StavropoL Tho
material s of M. Fausek are being worked up by him. With regard to those collected
by M, Ivanof, apart from their scieotific value, they have a special practical interest
from their bearing on the water supply of ateppe lands. Among his geological dis-
coveries reference may be made to one of a series of Miocene deposits tnw;ed east-
wards to the meridiaa of Georgievsk.
The expediiion of M. Grum*Grjimailo to the countries bordering on the Pamir,
of M. Konshine to the Trans- Caspian region, and of M. Kuznetsof to the Govero-
ment of Archangel, received no pectioiary grants from the Society, but only their
moral support. The results obtained by M. (:irum-Grjimailo's first journey to the
Pamir in 1884 and 1885 led him io the following condusiona t — The lopidoptera
of the Pamir and adjoining regions are diatiuct from those of the Thian Shau as fiir
as this is known, but having many points of similarity with the lepidoplerous fauna
of the Hindu-Kush, at all events as far as tyjiea common to both would seem to
indicate. The inference from this is that at the period when the lepidoptem (and
therefore other orders as well) of the Pamir was established, this region was in
closer connection with the countries to the south of it than with those on the nortli ;
in other word», the Pamirs were at that period detached from the Thian Shan,
*rhi8 may be explained in either of the two following ways: (I) a non*^yncbronous
upheaval of the two mountain masaes, or (2) if their upheaval took place at the
same time there was a certain interval of time during which they were parted from
one another by a wide aqueous expanse ; in other words, at that period the ranges
which now unite the Pamir with the Tbian Shan were non-existing, and Ferghana
and Kashgar formed the bed of one sea — the Tarim-Ferghanah*
M» A. M. Konshine accompauied, m geologist, the expaiition of Dr* J. Radde to
the Tran&caspian country and northern Khorasan. From Askabad M. Konshine
passed through Merv to Charjul in Bokhara In order to examine the channel of the
so-called KeUf Usboi and the alluvial deposits of the central Amu-daria. RetumiDg
from Charjui to Merv, M, Konshine joined M. lladde's caravan and took jMirt in
hia journey np the valley of the Murghab to Meruchak ; hence he proceeded along
the Afghan frontier to Zulfagar (Zulfikar) whence he deaoended via Pul-i-khatun
and Sarakhs to Kari-beiid and so to Askabad. In the course of this journey
M. Konshine examined the deposits of Glauber salts in the oasis of Merv, the common
rock-salt in siiu at Ak-rabat, hillocks of nitre at Imam-baha, ^c.
From Askabnd Br. Kadde and his companion Konshine went to Kochan, in
Khorasan, thence following the head-watera of the Attrek to Keshef-rnd, they
descended to Meshed, recroescd the Kopet-dagh, and reached the Akhal oasis by
Deregez valley,
M. Kusnetsof, whose ezcnraion into the Government of Archangel in the spring
of last year was principally for botanical puri^osea, undertook a series of barometrical
observationa for obtaining data aa to the relief of the country in the valleys of the
Dwina and Vaga })€tween Vologda and Archangel,
and bitter salt lakes, indicating vevj dearly a former connection botwetin these two seas.
It may be worth mentioning that the idea was formerly entertained of reuniting them by
meana of a oaunl.
• The Stavrofiol Yegorlyks are two liverg, the grcatej and lesser Yegor lyks, flowing
from south to noxth to join the Monytclu
BDSSIAN GEOGRArHICAL WOBE IK 1886.
431
Iq concltiflion the report mentions that the militarj topographical department of
tli0 Staff Corps has decided on perpetuatiag the memory of Prejevalsky's renmrkable
activity in exploriEg Central Asia by connecting his name, now so faraons, with
one of the mono tain ranges discovered by Lim during hii fourth joamey.
The awards for geographical achievements this year have been as follows :^-
The Constantine medal to Grigory Nikokiovitch Potanin for bis twenty -five years'
labours in the cause of geography in general, and for his last journey to China in
pBrticnlar. The lesser gold medals to Stephen Osipovitch Makarof for his article
published in the latfestija entitled * Double curreuta in straits/ being the results
of his investigatiouB on the flow and reflux of the waters of the Black and Med Iter*
ranean seas ; to Augustus Ivanovitch Skassi for his services in Po tunings flxpoditioQ
into Kan-3uh ; to Andrei Alexandrovitch Bolshof for his cartographical wofkfl ; to
Adolf Georgicvitch Eigner for the elaboration of the meteorological materials of the
Ust Lena polar station j and to Vasaili Vassilievitch Zverinsky for his assistance in
compiling the Geographi co-Statistical Lexicon published by the Society,
Bilver medals were awarded to Alexandra Yictorievna Potanina the unwearying
companion of her husband G, N. Potanin in all his journey a ^ for her active co-opera-
tion in forming a herbarium, keeping a meteorological record, and generally for the
part flhe took in the expedition ; to the companions of N. M. Frejevalsky on his
fourth journey into Central Asia, viz. to Peter Kozlof and Panteley Teleshof for
their invaluable asaiatance to the expedition ; to Dmitri Nikolaiovitch Bukharof for
hb work» *A joUTDey through Lapland in 18S3/ published in voL xiv, of the
Zupiski; * to Fmoz Karlovitch Schjwrck for hia * Russia of the Fflr East,' published
in vol. xvi. of the Zapiski ; f to Nikolai Nikolaievitch Beliafsky for hia article on his
march across the Ust-Urt from Tearevitch Gulf to Kungrad ; to Gr. Efim. Grum-
Grjmailo for his paper on his two journeys to the Cis- Pamir countries (supra ^ p. 430) ;
to Stanislav Danilovitch Bylke for his labours as member of the Committee of the
Society for deciding upon a first raeridiau ; to Alexander YasiHevitch Eliseief for his
report on his travels through Arabia Petraea and the Sahara ; to M. Ivanof for his
map to illustrate E. S. Feodorofs article entitled "Information on the Northern
Ural," published in vol xxii. of the Isvesiijit ; to Lieut.-CoL Nadarof for his MS.
work on the 'Northern Usauri Country' and others. Bronze medals were also
awarded^
Among the most important communications made to the sections of the Society
were, the chief results of A. M. Koushine'a long continued inveatigation in the Trana-
Caspian region, leading him to the conclusion that tho so-called Kclif Usboi or
Clmrjui Ungua which intersects the Kara-kum ateppe from north-west to south-east,
is only an ancient shore-line of the Caspian, and that it is a gross mistake to
assume that the various "uogusses" i.e, desiccated bights, gulfs, and lakes, are old
channels of the Amu*daria. The Usboi, in M. Kousbioe^a opinion, owes its origin
to a system of coast lakes, extending in a chain parallel with the Ust-Urt and the
former seaboard. At another sitting of these sections M. Jarintsof read a paper on
the cliff formations along the coast of the Black Sea at Odessa. His oonchisions,
which were at variance with those of the late M, Barbot de Marny, ivill be published
in a forthcoming volume of the Zapiski, M. N. N. Beliafsky communicated the
results of his investigations in the Ust-Urt and Amu-daria from Petro-Alcxandrofek
to Charjui. He described the surveys that had been made from Tsardvitcb Bay to
Kungrad and Knnia Urgendj, and from IIa7ar-asp up the Amu-daria to Charjui,
finally stating that in hia opinion the best route for a universal Husso-Asiatio
• See ' Proceedings It,G*S.; 1886, p. 533.
No, YIL— July 1887.]
t Ibid, p. G2.
432
RUSSIAN GEOGRAPHICAL WORE DT 1886.
railro^Ml would be from Samtof to Kungrad, then along the Amu-dana to Kelif, and
thence to Kabul.
Tbe Etknographical Section held six meetings during the year at which ten papers
werc read on subjects relating to the etlinology of the Russian people, the southern
Slavs, LithuauknSp natives of Siberia, Mongol Buddliiats, and inhabitants of the
Upper Zarafehan.
2. Military Topographical Work % Officers of the Staff- Coijts and Memhen of the
Corps qf Military Topographers during 1886,*
Jieccnnaissance of the iShs/em Slojw of the Korihern Cm^.^This work was
accomplished under the aUHpices of the Ministry of Imperial Domains by the mining
engineers MM, Feodorof and Lebedziniiky in conjunction with the topographers
MM. Ivanof and Koncha, The region surveyed comprises the ridge' of the Ural
and iKith its slo|)es from the river Vy&lmra on the west to the Lo^va on the east.
Ill this region 100 miles from such large centres as Bogoslofsky zavod (iron-works)
and the Turiueky mines, the first steps to obtain accurate topographical and
geological data have now been taken. The exjiedition followeil for the most part
river valleys where there were abundant outcrops of mountain formations, but it
was occasionally necessary to cross intermediate tracts by paths only beaten by
the Vogul reindeer sledges and their herds, where supplies had to be accumulated
beforehand. Four hundred miles of route snrv'cy were executed in 1886, over an
area of 54 OO stjuare versts along the Northern Ural, from the village of Ust-Uls,
along the rivers VLngera, Ghuvalka, and along a path leading to the northern
praying stone. The survey was made on a scale of three versts to the inch, by
means of tlio plane-table, and was based on the positions determined by the late
Professor Kovalsky of the Kazan University (Feodorofs survey is mentioned
aniet p. 431). Heights were ascertained by the aneroid*
Expedition to ihi Bokltarian dominion^j organised hy the Military Topograpikical
Dvparimeni of TurkiEtan, — Its chief object was the astronomical tk termination of
the geographical ccM>rdinate3 of a whole series of points in Eastern Bokhara, in order
to obtain sure data for the cartography of that part of Central Asia, This work
was undertaken by M. Schwarta:, assistant director of tlitj astronomical and meteoro-
logical observatory ; the method adopted was that of lunar occulta tions ; the instru-
ments used were five pocket chronometers, a Dollond teleecoixj for astronomical work,
a Pifitor circle with an artificial horizon, an inclinator, azimuth compass, and Brauer's
apparatus for i>endulum obBervations. The travelling equipments were finally
arranged at Samarkand^ including forty shoes for each horse and a box for carrying
the chronometers. At B a»m. daily observations were made for terrestrial attractioui
dip, and declination; at nine the chronometers were conlpared and solar altitudes
taken. Altitudes were again^taken 15 minutes before noon, followed by readings
of Ihe barometer, aneroids, and thermometer. At two the chronometers were again
compared. Every computation that could be was made on the spot immediately
after the observations. Bad weather accompanied M, Schwartz throughout, while the
intense heat on the bare steppes burst the glass fittings of his instruments and the
ivory rings of his field -glass. I n add i tion to t heso mis fortunes, m j ri ads o f mosqu i toes
on the bank of the Amu-dariaj and the peculations of the AmliAkdars (tax collectors)
terribly exhausted M. Schwartz's physical strength, weakened as he was by the
attacks of tbe Shirabad fever, which obliged him to take quinine in doses of 40 grains.
* Extnicted from the Report publiehed in the * Bug^ki Invalid,* and Mndly commu-
nicated by our Hen. C!oTiesponding Member, M. Yenukof.
ROSSIAN GEOGKAPHICAL WORK OT 1886,
48S
From Shimbad he proceeded viJl Daisun, Yurohi, Karatagb, K&firnahflD, Puizabad,
Baljiian, to Khovalin, 10 miles from the tovvo of Aksii, a place replete wltk clasBicftl
memories, nod qow chiefly remarkable for it8 fortress built of stones and timbers,
answeriog closely to the deacriptioQ of tboae mentioned bj Cfuear in \m campaigns
in Gaul. From Aksu M. Schwartz|went towards Gharm. Between Tabi-dara and
Chil-ilira the route folio wa the lofty and precipitous right bank oftheKhitigou along
narrow cormcea, Bome ofAvhich wer^ so nearly washed away aa to necessitate d^toura
by the creata of the mountains through thick brushwood and along the road over
the sharp ridge of Sliali-Kandagh, by which Captain Rodionof paased in 1886, From
Gharm the expedition continued to foUow Hodionofs itinerary to Zanku along the
Pi tan-Kill and over the southern Bok-bash Pas8» Abo\re Kirch in the river-beds
were blocked with snow, the drifts at the end of August lying 15 feet deep.
Nearly opposite the month of the Laisu rivulet, which falls into the FitaD-Kul,
there is a pretty waterfall, Sharmarak, 150 feet high in three descents. From the
valley of the Gadai-eai, one of the head-streams of the Laisu, M. Schwartz went to
Kara-kaza by a circuitous route^ In ascending the Bok-bash (about ll^OCK) feet),
the raid crossed a snow-field for several mties, while on the opposite slope Kirghiz
summer eQcampmenta were mot with, a contrast attributable to the fact that the
aqueous vapours entering Turkistan from the Bouth-weat deposit theix moisture in
those defiles which are open in that quarter. On the 17th (129th) August the
expedition rested at the foot of Kara-kazyk Pass, at a height of 14,500 leet, before
commencing the very steep descent, over dcSbris and ice ; for two versls it passed
over a glacier, and then followed the rocky bed of a torrent leading to the military
road to Viiadil, constructed in 1878. Hence the expedition returned via Marghika
and Khojend to Tashkent on the 30th August (11th September).
During their 116 days' journey they fixed 34 fjointa astronomically,
50 magnetically, and observed for altitude at 335 places* M. Myshenkof, one of
M. Schwartz's companions, colloobed information on the naphtha springs, gold-fielda,
and other mineral resources of this part of Bokhara, while M. Hudnef executed the
topoGjaphical work. He recoonoitied the western part of the Shahri-sebz range
between Takhta Karacha and Djam, passed thn^ugh the Bokharian settlement of
Tutla [Tulta?] and thence back to Kitab. The late spring, constant raina, and
snow-fall interfered greatly with his work, and rendered the passage of the Takhta-
Karacha unusually difficult, M. Rudnef met M. Myshenkof at Samarkand on the
20th April (2nd May) and the two started together to re-cross the Takhta* Karacha pass
to Kitab and Shahrahaus (a phice erroneously rendered on maps as "Shahr,*' its
native name being "Shahrshaus"). Their advance was again delayed by the
imtMssable state of the roads in the Kashka-daria valley. The Shahri-sebz range
attains its highest altitude between Takhta- Karacha pass and Djam. From this
centre the mountains diminish in height, and bear more the character of tablelands
covered wltli luxuriant pasturnge and arable land. The northern slopes are less
adapted for tillage, owing to their rocky nature and their steelier gradients, than the
southern, at the foot of which there estends a ridge of hills forming a continuation
of a northern spur of the Hisaar range. Tlie streams flowing northwards are srniiUer
than those which roll their watera to the Bokharian settlements. One of these,
Makret, has an extent of about four versta (2 J milcH), while another, Kalkama, is
even more popnlous. Four caravan passes cross the range* The direct road vift
Derbent, Yakkabagh, Tash*kurgan, and the head-waters of the Katta-uru-daria and
Kichi-uru*daria being found impassable the expedition followed that via Yar-tiube,
Kalta-minar, and Kara-khaval, crossing the above-mentioned rivers in their louver
courses. From Derbend they followed the foot of the Ak-tau mountains to Shirabad,
visiting the snlphur and naphtha springs of Shakarlyk-astan,
2 I 2
434
KHSSIAi^ GEOGRAPHICAL WORK IN 1886,
On tli€ 3rd(15Lh) June M. Myahenkof returned to Samarkand, while M. Rudnef
continued Im topograpliical survey. Owing to the approach of the Mahommedaa
fast no guide would consent to undertake a march of 50 miles through barren
mountains exposed to the fierce heat of the sun, il. Rudnef had therefore to confine
himself to a reconnaissance of the western slopes of the Terekli-tau range and the
waterless Tash-rabat valley. He then reached the Talley of Lahur which terminatea
in a salt lake, visited in 1884 by another topographer, M. Petrof. On the 17th(29th)
June M. Rudnef reached Baljuan* He found in the y alley of the Darai-dash-tak
burning schiata, and in the mountains north of Baljnan traces of lead. Having
crossed the Ruyut Pass near some salt-works, M. Rudnef w&s obliged to return ta
Baljnan to connect his snrvey with tiiat of M. Rodionof, At the settlement of
Suk-seh, M. Rudnef visited the gold-washings, said to be the richest in Bokharian
territory, and employing the inhabitants of four villages, each labourer earning
60 copecks a day. He also visited the gold-fields of Khovalio, about four milea
above Hazret-sultan. Having haUed at Chil-dara the expedition went westward
along the right bank of the Obi-Ehingou, which forces its way between precipitous
cliffs 1400 feet high» The path winds along cornices, supported on wooden propa
overhanging the rushing torrent some hundreds of feet below. Here the most
experienced monntaioeer dismounts and holds by his horse's tail* On the 27th June
(0th July) M. Rndnef arrived at Gharm, whence avoiding the valley of Dushti-bidan,
^ji old glacier bed, he reached Kafimahan, The road from Kafimalmn to Ura-tiube
pasfies along the valley over the Sardi-mion, over the Hisaar, Zarafshan, and
Turkifltan ranges, and crosses the rivers en route by swingiog bridges, for the use of
which the Bokharians levy a tolL This is the only tolerable road for pack animals,,
and may be aocomphshed in five days from Kafimahan to Ura-tiube, and in three
days more to the Amu-daria, though the Bek of Hissar said that he could reach Ura-
tiube in three days if he were obliged to run. By this route the Russian dominions
are supplied with corn, asses, horses, homed cattle, and sheep. From Kafimahan
M. Rudnef turned westward by the spurs of the Hiasar range ; having arrived at
Sarijui he took a north-westerly direction by the difficult Sangardak defile, and
arrived at Karshi, his health and that of his Cossacks having suflered so severely
from constant fevers that he has not yet recovered* During tho last three years
four-fifths of the population of the Kashka-daria valley between Karshi and Chirakchi
have fallen victims to this fever. Completely prostrated by illness, M. Rudnef
returned to Samarkaad.
Another topographer, M. Glagolef, attached to the expedition of Captain Poko-
tillo, began surveying from Karatagh down the left bank of the Surkhan ; he recon-
noitred both banks of the Yaksh and part of the right bank of tho Paudj to the
defile of Chaila-kamar, where huge mountains prevent access to the Pandj* He
found tho pass of Yalvayak to be 11,000 feet high. From Tilliakli viH Zygar to
Kala-i-khumb and beyond, the road is for the most part carried along ooroicea and
balconies some hundreds of feet above the river which has a current of about
10 miles an hour and forms numerous waterfalls. M. Glagolef and his party
travelled on foot while their instruments were carried by hand, and often erected in
spots where a single false step would have cost a life. Owing to the commanding
height of the right bank of the Pandj, it was possible to snrvey the left bank with
sufficient accuracy and to trace out the boundary of the sinistral riparian possessions
of the Bokharians. From Kala-i-khumb the expedition crossed the Darwaz and
Peter the Great ranges to Gharm*
Survey in the Zatafthan, — In February 188G, Captain Pariisky, of the corps of
military to]iogTaphera, was ordered to the left bank of the Zarafshan, between Pen-
jakent and the Bokharian frontier, in order to fix a base for the survey of this region,
RtJSSIAX GEOGRAPHICAL WORK IN 1886.
m
the 18T5 survey having been interrupted by the war which broke out m that je&r
with the Khna of Kokand. Soon after the departure of Captain Pariisky from
Tashkent, the fine, dry weather which had continued during (he whole of the winter
<jf 1885-6 suddenly changed to rain and frost wliich lasted all through March and
April. The spring of 1886 was altogether an exceptional one in Tnrkistan ; the
rainfall was so heavy that the Syr-daria overflowed its banks, which had not occurred
for fifty years ; communications with Samarkand were consequently cut off, wliile
at Khojend several buildings were washed away. The rains were accompanied by
€old and vegetation was unusually backward. The aurvey operations had to he
conducted beyond the Darghan canal in a ateppe country almost wholly interB4?cted
by deep ravines. The bordering strip of fertile land la but thinly inhabited, but
pack animals are abundant, so that the dry baulks for erecting signal stations, which
could only he obtained at Samarkand, were transported by the completely spoilt roads
on asses. The festival of " the holy water" and the new year also mude the natives
indisposed to hire themselves out as labourers for Captain Pariisky. In the twelve
years that have elapsed since the interruption of the survey in the Zarafshan
district many old signals have disappeared, and only traces of them could here and
there be found. However, at length the object was attained, and the survey of
1886 was admirably joined with the renovated signal posts and the old survey. In
all 1108 sq. versta WBjre surveyed on either side of Samarkand, It was proved
that the cultivation of the country had nndergone a marked change ; the number of
buildings and gardens had increased, parti^cularly in that part of Samarkand occupied
by the Russians, as well as in the Miyankal valley, changes in a measure due to the
altered course of the Kara-dana. This interesting phenomenon had been in a
measure caused by the usual physical inSucnces which alter river courses in Central
Asia, as well as by the erection of a now dam in 1882, two versts above the old one
{the fall of the Ak-daria is considerably greater than that of the Kara-daria,
and the object of the dam was to divert water into this southern arm of the
Zarafahan). The inhabited points in tho Zanifshan district are quite dilferont from
those in Ferghana where the people live in settlements of some size with con-
stant bazaars. The Zarafshan district, on the other hand, is covered with a
network of detached huts and settlements, in which bazaars rarely occur, and these
only on certain days. The nature of tho country to the east of Samarkand differs
from that on the west. While the former is abundantly watered by the Zarafshan,
and is almost one continuous rice-field, the region to the west of Samarkand depends
either on minfall for its water supply, or on irrigating dykes led from the hills near
the Bokharian frontier. Between these two tracts lies a belt of stef^jKS land. In a
hygienic sense one would have expected the rice-fields to he the most unhealthy
part, but the opposite is really tho <^se. The officers and men engaged in the
survey enjoyed pretty good health in the eastern district, whereas in that on the
west topographers and natives fell sick with fever, except the children of the latter,
who kept their health well.
lieconnamancc of ike JS^r-daria region. — In 1886 this reconnaissance served as
a continuation of similar work carried out in 1885 in the district of Kliojend and the
Zarafshan region in the western part of the Turkistan range, beginning at its northern
outliers. Having taken in the former Ura-tiube region, the survey passed into the
Kurarainsk district^ intersectingjtho Syr-daria at two points above and below tho
Begovatsky rapids. Here, too, changes were found to have taken place during the
last twenty years, owing to the increase of population and the greater extent of
cultivated lands. The rivers Maidan-tai and Ugam, hitherto not entered on the
map, owing to their inaccessibility, were found to belong to the basin of the Chir-
chik, and to have their sources in the snowy Karatan range. The passes, Maidan-
430
RUSSIAN GEOGRAPHICAL WORK IN 1886.
tal-asbu, Turpak-bel, and Kurum-jul, all above 10,000 feet, are continually covered
with snow. The roails here are quite imtouched ; they are mere footpaths winding
along steep, rocky cliffSj or in defiles obstructed by huge boulders of rock. Owing
to the heavy snowfalls in the winters of 1685 and 1886, the water in the brooks
and rivulets rose so high that bridges and fords were injured or swept away. The
April and May rains washed away all traces of paths on the steep slopes, and added
further to the difEculties of the rcconnaiasance.
Survey in the tnim-Caspian rfyttm.— This was done in the districts of Tedj end
and Merv, l)etween the lyth (27th) May, and the 12tb (24th) October, by five topogra-
phers, on the scale of 2 versts to the inch. In the Tedjend district 13,336 square
versts were surveyed, containing mostly a sandy, waterless, and uninhabited tract.
The survey was based on positions previously fixed astronomicaDy, and aceurately
tested by measurement of base-lines. Five topographerB also worked in the Merv
district. Here, owing to the want of trigonometrical data they depended on a net-
work of angles, taking as a base the nearest pqints of the instrumental survey of the
Merv oasis, accomplished in 1884 on a scale of 1166 yards to the inch, and the
astronomical positions of TJtch-adji, l^epetek, and Charjui fixed by Captain Gedeonof
of the Staff CJorps, An extent of 9827 square versts of 8tepi>e were surveyed, and
1693 square versts in tlie Amu-daria oasis, extending for a distance of about 53 miles
down the left bank of the river, between Eldjik ferry and Sakar-bazar settlement.
The ground is everywhere much cut up by watercourses, and covered with detached
builJings, snmll gardens, frnit orchardii, and single trees, causing much impediment
to the work of survey. Prom Charjui up the Amu valley to the ruins of Kuraim-
kala near the river bank opposite Burdalyk, and aa far as Sakar-bazar, the country
is thickly inhabited by Bokharian Sarts, and further up the river by Ersari Turko-
mans divided into four tribes,— Kara, Karabeksnli, Ulutepe, and Glinesh. This
population occupies a belt of land from 3 to 10 miles wide, so richly cultivated, and
well irrigated from the Amu, as to have the appearance of a continuous gawlen for
upwards of 50 miles. A similar tract of fertile soil extends to Kelif. According to
the guides there are five wells along the only road between Merv and Burdalyk,
118 miles long, and only one of these, Bcyur-Desliik, contains freah water.
Besides these ten topographers, the Frontier Commission under the command of
Coi Kuhlberg was at work, English engineers surveyed from Daulat-abad along
both sides of the Russo- Afghan frontier, through Andkoi in a north-easterly direction
as far as the Russian surveyed belt along the Amu-daria valley, on the scalo of 2
Engligh miles to the inch* The whole area surveyed by the Commission amounted
to 25,909 square versts, a tract of dreary arid desert without any inhabitants, and
only covered with grass in the spring, when a few uomads pasture their docks and
herds there* After the severe winter, accompanied by snow and frost (reaching
— 23'' Fakr.), a short spring set in foliowed by a sultry summer with a burning
sun, and a temperature in the shade of 113° Fahr. There were several cases of
sunstroke, and the members of the Tedjend and Merv sections suffered from a scarcity
of provisions and water » The Tedjend topographers could only obtain supplies at
Sarybend, and those of the Merv district at Merv itself.
The Omsk MilUary4opo^mphi€al BepartmmL — The geographical positiona of
22 points have been chronometrically detennined in a region bounded on the north
by the Ifihim, from the town of Akmolinsk through the Stanitza of Atbasar to the
villajie of Chelkar; on the east, by the road from Akmolinsk to the whilom fort
Aktaf ; on the south, by the parallel of Ulatau ; and on the west by the border of
the district of Turgai and the Government of Orenburg. This region, from the
Kokchetaf Mountains to the [jaralkl of Akmolinsk, is a perfectly level plain,
almost destitute of trees, but with a fertile soil well watered by the lahim. Here
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES,
48?
settlementfl are frequent and the roads are exoeUent. South of Akmolinfik, towards
the Bary-sUy the aspect chaoges, 03 the country becomes a& undulatm^ p!aio.
Frotn the ea&tem borders of the Akmoliask district towards the centre of the tract
sketched out^ there occur craters of extinct volcanoes known by Tariou^ names.
Theae become more frequent towards the Turgai diatrict and form tbe rocky Ulataa
Mountains. Here, again, the soil in prolific, and the country well watered, though
there are no settlers, Tbe lords of these wide lands are the nomadic Kirghiz of
Akmolinsk and Atbazar districts. The rivulets here arc very difficult to cross.
In 1886, a scries of levels was completed from tbe town of Petropavlofsk through
Kokchetaf and Atbazar to Akmoliusk* Surveys were made— {!) In the Akmolinsk
district along the borders of the Governments of Tobolsk and Orenburg, (2) In
the Barlyk Mountains and in the valley of the Emel ; and (3) In the Khan Tengri
expedition. In the Akmolinsk 39^367 sq. versta were surveyed on the 5- v erst
scale. Here the naturo of the ground required a large number of contour lines ;
thickets are frequent, serving to Bht4ter tbe wintering stations of the nomads ; lakes,
both fresh and salt, as well as desiccated kke^beds^ are numerous ; and a network
of Toads give;B access to the heart of the country.
The survey and astronomical observations in the vallc*y of the Emel, from the
frontier pillar at Manitu to Dowbuljln with the steppe lying to the south of it in the
eastern part of the hilly country of Barlyk,* and along the hitherto unknown Djair
mountain range and valley of the Namyn-gol, was entrusted to Captain Zakrjefsky
and topogmpher Bogdanof. In the hills of Barlyk there are no carriage roads, and
the instruments had all to be carried on pack-horses. The 5-verst scale was
adopted i the angles were measmred by the Stephan compass and the distances by
intersections or by the eye. Bogdanof surveyed the northern part of the
valley of the Emel along its left side, the course of the Ak-su and its head-water ; the
western spurs of the Urkashar range, the western Djair Mountains, and the south-
aastem part of the Maili Hills. Captain Zakrjefsky, besides fixing a series of
astronomical points, surveyed the northern slope and eastern part of tbe Barlyk
Mountains, the valley of the Kup, the plain of Konur-obo together with the oon*
tignous stiuthern slopes of Barlyk and part of the Maili Hills, About 10,000 sq.
verats were mapped in this way, and this Uttle known and interesting part of Dsiun-
garia described.
GEOGBAPHIOAL NOTEa
Geography at Oxford, — It ia aimotmced that the Bucceeafnl candidate
for tbe important post of Eeader in Geography, id tbe institution of
which the Kojal Geografihical Society has taken aucli pereistent interest,
is Mr. Halford J. Muckinder, 5I.a., whose geographical lectures have
attracted large audiences during the past two seasons at the chief
centres of the Oxford University ExteGsion in the north and west of
England. The interests of geography as an important and definite
branch of knowledge and as a necessary element in education will ^:^Q
safe in Mr. Mackinder's hands.
* That part of Chinese territory^ houndod on the north by the Emel, on the oast by
the Bogflokhan road^ on the south by the Maili range, and on the west by the Buatian
frontier, is known generally as the Barlyk Lilly eountry«
438
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
JubOee Address to H.M. the Queen — The following Address from
the Society was forwarded last week to the Home Secretary, for
presentation to the Queen on the auspicious occasion of the completion
of fifty years of Her Majesty^s reign :— *
To THE Queen's Most Excellent Majesty,
TIw huinble address of the Prmdent^ Council^ and Fellows of ihe Eoyal
Geographical Sociclif,
May it please Your Majesty,
We^ the President, Council, and Fellows of the Royal Geographical
Society, beg leave to offer to your Majesty our most respectful and
dutiful congratulationB on the completion of the fiftieth year of Your
Majesty's reign.
Specially honoured as our Society is by the patronage of Your
Majesty, and the favour of the illustrious Princes your sons, their Koyal
Highnesses the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Edinburgh, wo grate-
fully take this occasion to assure Your Majesty that it has been the
constant endeavour of the Eoyal Geographical Society to merit the
honour thus conferred upon us, and to discharge the obligations arising
from our position, by promoting the cause of Geographical exploration
and science to the utmost of our ability.
And we venture, very respectfully, to assure Tour Majesty that
remarkable as has been the progress in all branches of Science which
has characterised Your Majesty's reign, and which will certaioly render
that reign memorable in all future time, there is no branch of knowledge
the additions to which have been more important than those made to
Geography. Our Society, without arrogating to itself undue honour,
may fairly claim to have been largely instrumental in promoting the
enterprise through which these results have been obtained, and w^e are
proud to have been furnished through the Royal favour with the means
of conveying to many distinguished travellers and other persons who
have rendered signal services to Geographical science and explora-
tion, a highly esteemed and honourable recognition of their labours,
by the award of the Royal Medals which Your Majesty's bounty
provides.
That so large a portion of the globe has been opened up to colonisa-
tion and other civilising influences during Your Majesty's reign has in
no small measure been due to such Geographical exploration ; and as
dutiful subjects of the Sovereign whose dominions extend into all quar*
tors of the globe » and embrace nearly a sixth part of the habitable earth,
we desire humbly to offer our congratulations on the great moral and
material progress in all parts of those dominions and their dependencies,
which has distinguished the fifty years of Your Majesty's reign, and on
the continued loyalty and devotion to Your Majesty shown throughout
GEOGBAPHICAL NOTES,
489
the great and glorious Empire over which Your Majesty has been called
to rule.
For the maintenance of the integrity and unity of thia Empire, and
for the proBperous and peaceful prolongation of Your Majesty's reign,
your faithful subjects the President^ Council, and Fellows of the Royal
Oeogimphical Society will ever pray*
Olemcnts E. Mabkham, Eichaed Steachey,
Douglas W. FEBSffFiELD, President.
Secrelariea,
Diego Cam*s Memorial Stone at the Mouth^of the Congo. — ^By a letter
kindly communicated to us by Mr. E. K. Gray we learn that Baron von
Schwerin, the Swedish traveller, at the close of his recent expedition *
and after his journey overland from Banana and Maanda to Boma, has
discovered the celebrated "Pedra Padrao," or inscribed stone, which
the Portuguese navigator erected at the mouth of the Congo on the
occasion of his memorable discovery of the river. Yon Schwerin was
about returning to Europe, after taking soundings on the south bank
off the Congo moutb, when he learnt from Senhor Franca at St. Antonio
that the natives of the locality had spoken to him of a large " fetish
stone ** hidden in the jungle. After several palavers with native chiefs.
Yon Schwerin persuaded them to show him and Sonbor Franca the way
to the stone, of which they stood much in awe. It was found at some
distance from the beach and proved to be indubitably the remains of
the Pedra Padrao. Details of the discoveiy may be expected soon from
Lisbon.
A Hew Afirican Lake.— We learn from a recent official despatch of
Mr, Hawes, our Consul in the Nyassa region^ that a small lake has been
discovered south-east of Lake Shirwa or Kilwa, Mr, Hawes' description
IB as follows : — Lake Limbi is a narrow sheet of water having an outlet
flowing into the southern end of Lake Shirwa. Its position has not as
yet been marked on any of the maps of Central Africa, but I understand
from Mr, Last that he fixed it during his journey to the Namuli Hills
last August. The lake abounds with wild-fowl and other birds, and is
the abode of numbers of hippopotami. The water is muddy and scarcely
fit for drinking purposes. The only other water in the neighbourhood
is a discoloured thickish litjuid obtained from pools dug in the clayey
8oil«
Emin Bey. — The last batch of letters which have reached Europe from
the beleaguered traveller, are published in Petermann's * Mitteilungon '
(No. 6). They bear various dates from lOfch August, 1883, to 26th
October 1886, and are principallyoooupied with news of his position and
prospects at difierent periods. The last of these letters, that of the 26th
♦ Vide * Proceedings B.G,a,* 1885, p. 817,
440
GEOGRAPHICAL NQTI^.
October, 1886, is of geographical iBterest, and gives a few details of his
excuraiona to Lake Albert Nyaoza. •* I aetid you,** he says, " a report upon
a tour to Albert Nyanza* Since writing it I have made two further
journeys to the lake and collected a masa of new information, I eould
have sent yon the detailed map at once, but since there are still some
points which need to be cleared up, I will wait, and meanwhile give
you brieiy the principal results of my work* First of all is the dis-
covery of a new river which flows down from the U-aongora Mountains ;
it is of considerable size, and Mows south into the lake. The river,
which is called Eakibbi by the Wa-aongora, and Dueru by the "Wa-mboga,
formK near its mouth a large island. It is, however, on account of its
numerous rapids, very difficult to navigate, but on the other hand it
pours into the lake all the year round a large volume of water. Upon
its banka, at a short distance from the lake, is situated the town of
Hamgurko, where a quantity of salt of excellent q^uality is obtainable.
The Kakihbi or Dueru forms the boundary between the district of
Muenge, which belongs to TJ-nyoro, in the east, and the M-boga country
in the west- In the west-north-west and north M-boga w bounded by
Leundi, a district which lies behind the mountains on the borders of the
lake. Farther west I found a region peopled by races which I consider
to be the Iddio (A-Zandeh), In the south-west there is, as I was told,
a river, on the banks of which a colony of the curious dwarf race or
Akkas, called Ealia by the Unyoro people^ exists, but they show them-
selves in their speech to be Betua, I could give here a quantity of
information about the fair Wa-huma of Mruli and the Torn Mountains,
and also about the Wa-kondje, &c. ; for the present the above must
suffice/* These letters were brought from Lado on the return of the
caravan which Dr, Junker had sent to Fmin Bey.
The River Mobangi. — The latest journey up this important tributary
of the Congo is that accomplished by Captain van Gele, who in October
to December last navigated the river as far as the San go rapids, which
Grenfell surmounted in the Peace in January 1885. Captain van Grele
surveyed the following tributaries of the Mobangi, which Grenfell
remarked but did not navigate, viz. the Ibenga (Grenfell's Botabo)
and Lobay on the right bank and the Nghiri on the left. The latter
is a small river taking its rise in a swamp lying to the north-west of
Bangala, and flows across the narrow tongue of land between the Mobsmgi
and the Congo. This swamp is ideiktical with the Nghiri Lake discovered
by Lieutenant Coquilhat in 1885. In the rainy season it is connected
with the Congo by numerous small watercourses.
Geography in Eussia. — It has been decided to institute chairs of
geography at the Russian UniversitieB, One will be established at
St. Petersburg University in the autumn of the present year*
GEOGRAPHICAL KOTESL
4il
Tha OliMate of Europe as regards the duration of a certain mean
temperature m different areaa-— An instructiv© article on this eubject,
accompaoied with maps and tables, is coDtributed by Herr Alex. Snpan
to tke current number of Petermann's * Mitteilungen.* Tho object is
to flbow the length of time (the number of months) a mean temperaturet
low, temperate, or high, pi^vaila in a Enropean area, and to mark off on
maps the areas in which the temperature endures, the number of
months being expressed by colours. It is manifest that many gco-
gi^phical and biological considerations depend on such general facts of
climate as Herr Supan is endeavouTing to work out. The diBtributioa
of the fauna and flora of a region^ for example^ must depend on the
persistence of a certain mean temperature for some part of the year»
Supan divides temperatnreB into throe classes: (1) 32"^ F, (0^ Cent)
and under, which he calls the "Prost Period 'Tj (2) 51° and over
(10'' to 20'^ Cent), the ** Warm Period*'; (3) and 68*" and over, or the
"Hot Period.*^ The duration of these temperatures he has noted at
471 diSerent stations in Europe and the countrias round tho ^lediter-
ranean. The temperatures have not been reduced to the sea^level. The
resultfi, which he has represented cartographically in a very striking
manner, may be briefly summarised as follows: — The lines of
equal duration of the ** Frost Period " run similarly to the winter
isothermal lines, changing from a southorly direction in tho west
of Europe to a sontb-easterly and then east-south-easterly in the east of
Europe. As regards the **Warm Period," it is only on the Atlantic
side of Europe that tho lines of equal duration run distinctly south-east ;
elsewhere on the Continent they approximate very nearly to the parallels
of latitude, while for the *'Hot Period" they show a north-easterly
direction. Thus, in all three maps the contrast between the oceanic
west and the continental east comes out very sharply. The climate of
Norway, which is generally spoken of as exceptionally warm, is in tho
hill region very cold. A glance at Maps 1 and 2 explains why the
Norwegian highland was in the glacial epoch the birthplace of North
European land ice ; the reason is not to be found in the extraordinarily
low temperatures, but in the duration of tho cold and warm periods*
In all districts, says the writer^ where a coast range of mountains inter-
poses between the interior and the eea, or where the hills rise abruptly
from the sea, the lines of equal duration press closely together, notably
in Norway and the Alps* He emphasises the importance, in considering
the climate of Europe, of such regions of depression as the valleys of the
Ehine and Rhone, the low-lying plains of Hungary, and the country of
Poland. As r^ards the climate of the interior of the Balkan Penin-
sula, the data are very meagre, but the observations of the Austrian
stations permit of an interesting comparison being made between Bosnia
on the one side and the Dalmatian coast territory and basin of the
442
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
A careful examination of Herr Supan'e tables
valuable light on the phyaioal geography of
Danube on the other,
will doubtless throw
Europe.
Desert of Gobi.— The energetic traveller M. G. N. Potanin relumed
to St. Petersburg in the spring, thus bringing to a termination his
work of three years' exploration in Mongolia. M, Potanin, in company
with his wife, M. Skassi, topographer, and M* Beresowski, left Peking
in the snmnier of 1884. Crossing the province of Knku-khoto, the
party proceeded to Kan-sa, which was in the first instance the chief
field of operations. The winter (1884-5) was passed at the town of
San-chuan on the road from Lan-chau to Sining. The following
enmmer was occupied with extensive excursions to the south into the
territories bordering on Kuku-nor. After wintering in the convent at
Hni-bui, Mp Potanin travelled in the snmnier of 1886 to the province of
Se-chnen, whence at the end of the year he made his way across the
Desert of Gobi to Kiakhta and Irkntsk. The immense and varied
collections brought home by him include more than 1500 botanical
specimens and 15,000 insects, together with numerous photographs and
ethnographical objects. The topographical surveys of M. Skassi are
spoken very highly of. He has determined by astronomical observa-
tions the position of more than sixty different points, and has sur-
veyed 4000 miles of country. M. Bercsowski will remain for another
year in China. M; Potanin has reported the details of his journey
across the desert of Gobi in a letter to the Imperial Geographical
Society of Irkutsk, Leaving Goltai on 27th June, 1886, he followed
the course of the river Ezsin, which flows across the desert of Gobi, and
in summer possesses a considerable volume of water. For some
distance the river is lined on both sides with chains of low hills of chalk
and sandstone formation, which aro covered with moving sand. In its
lower course the Ezsin divides into two arms, the eastern one forming
the half dried-np lake of Sugu-nor, while the western branch flows into
the great salt lake Gasbun-nor, situated in a veritable desert where for
Ofty miles neither water nor grass is to be found* M. Potanin travelled
round the west shore of this lake, and then crossed to the north the
eaatem spurs of the Altai Mountains, which here run from west to east
in four parallel chains, between which extend broad valleys containing
rivers after heavy rains. In the most northerly range is the snow- peak
of Ichi-Bogdo. From the latter point the party journeyed to Lake
Orok-nor, and proceeding up the valley of the Tui, past Changai, reached
the Pass of Kuljussai. Then travelling down-stream they found them*
selves at length in the vicinity of Lake Ugei-nor, near which the great
rout© from Urga to tJlia*ssutai passes. Between the Ezsin and Lake
Ugei-nor four important caravan routes wore crossed, M. Potanin
reached Kiakhta on the 11th October,
GECH3EAPHICAL NOTES.
«A8
¥ew Proviiicea in Clule. — By an ordioanco of March 12th, 1887,
two new provinces have hoen created in Chile, Malleco and Cautin,
thereby bringing what remains of Arancania into administrative relation
with the rest of the country. The province of Malleco has for its chief
town Angol, and is divided into three departments, Angol, CoUipulli,
and Traignen ; Temnco is the chief town of the province of Cautini
whioh is divided into the two departments of Temuco and Imperial.
The towns which give the names to the departments and %vhich have
from 3000 to 4000 and even more inhabitants, will not be found in the
last official map by Pissis^ issued in 1886. Traiguen lies on the river of
that name, which runs into tbe Kio Lnmoco, a northern tributary of the
Rio Can tin or Imperial ; Go31ipuIli is on the river Malleco, which joinB
the Regue below Angol, and so forms the Rio Yergara. Temuoo
and Imperial are both on the river Cautin, Imperial being at the junction
of the Lumaco with that river, and Temnco about 22 miles higher
up* These places will soon all be connected with the rest of Chile
hy rail,
Antarctic Exploration. — Referring to our note in the May number of
the ' Proceed logs; p. 300, on the movement in Australia in favour of an
Antai-ctic expedition, we are now able to state that still further pro-
gress has been made. The Antarctio Committee appointed by the Royal
Society of Victoria, and the Royal Geographical Society of Australia
(Victoria Branch), have recommended to the Premier of the Colony the
propriety of stimulating Antarctio research by the offer of bonnees.
They advise that a sum of 10,000^. be placed upon the estimates to provide
for the amount of the bonusesj and for the expcDse of the equipment of
the staff. They advise the Government to invite tenders from shipovraers
willing to perform the services required, the tenderers having to provide
two fortified ships, each not loss than 175 tons register and 60 horse-
power nominaL There must be provided, free of charge, cabin accommo-
dation in each ship for two gentlemen who will sail as the scientific staff,
and who must be afforded every facility for noting natural phenomena,
llie chartered shipa will have a special bonus (from 800?. to 1000^. ) upon
their entering at the Custom House a cargo of 100 tone of oil, the produce of
fish caught south of 60^ 8. The special services expected are as follows : —
A flying survey of any coast-lines lying within the Antarctio circle, and
not now laid down upon the Admiralty charts ; the discovery of new
waterways leading towards the South Pole, and of harbours suitable for
wintering in, and the discoveiy of commercial products. Opportunities
will have to be afforded to the scientifiG staff to add to our knowledge of
the meteorology, oceanography, terrestrial magnetism, natural history,
and geology of the region. The masters of the ships must specify the
hoDUB they demand for passing 70^ S. and for each degree beyond 70^ ;
and also for every occasion in which they succeed in eBtabli(?hing on
shore a temporary observing camp. These arc the principal points in
Ui
COBRESPONDENCEL
the new 8€beme of Antarctic exploration, and we are glad to know
that the Yiotorian Pi-eniior ie prepared to move for a Government grant
provided the other colonies oon tribute, which no doubt they will do.- —
While on the Bubject of Antarotio exploration, we may state that we are
informed by Baron Nordenskiold that the rninonra ae to his loading an
Antarctic expedition are entirely premature. He has as mnch work on
hand at home as will keep him going till 1889, and it is extremely
doubtful if even then he would undertake such an expedition were the
conditions favourable.
CORBESPONDENCK
On the Position of Mount St EliaSy and the Schwaiha Expedition
to Alaska,
DSPARTMENT OW THB IniSBIOB, VM, GeOLOOICAL BuIEVET,
Washington D. C.
Mojf 25, 1887.
I hnyo read with interest the oDtertainiTig article of Lieut Seton-Karr in the last
number of the * Proceedings ' of your Society. A few observations tbereon may
perbapa be permitted. hlauL Seton-Karr ohBervea (p. 272) in effect that if the
ahore-line be correctly mapped, the ixjsition of Mount St. Blias is, &c. It would be
too much to expect of gentletneQ who explore in flearch of sport and manly exercise
such as mountain-climbing, that they should be conversant with all the literature
of the subject, A few references may, however^ be ui<iBful in supplementiug lor
students of geography the observations above referred to.
The shore-line of the Alaakan coast betwean Yakutat and Prince William
Sound is not, and never has been correctly located. The posltiou of Mount St, Elias,
however, haa been well determined by the U.S. Coast Survey expeditions which I
Lad the honour to command in 1874 and 1880, Mr, Marcus Baker, ivhoae qualiticd-
tioDa will not be doubted by any one acquainted with him, was on both occasions
astronomer to the party, and observed a at^riea of vertical augles on Mount St. Eliaa
in 1874. The tri angulation, however, and other vertical angles were observed by
myself in person, not by my valued friend aud assistant, as erroneously stated in
Elliot t*8 late compilation on AlaBk^^, Our party waa furnished with a large number
of chronometers and other instruments of precision, and the results in full, togcthtr
with the data and essential jmrta of tlio computation, were published in the U.S.
Coast Survey Report for 1875, A separate copy of the article waa fumisbed to y^»ur
Society in advance of the volume. From this it will be seen that the position ot
Monnt St. Elias is not a matter of controversy, within narrow limits, at most not to
exceed two or three miles, and in all (trobability much less than one mile, Additioual
information galnetl in 1680 will he found in the ' American Journal of Science * (Feb.
1661, pp, 104-111,) The Malcspina glacier, aiuce named for Agj^z by Schwatka,
is there referred to at some IcofjtlL The failure of Schwatka's name for it is the
less to be regretted from the fact that there ia already in South-eajiteru Alaska a
OOBRESFONDENCE. 446
truly magnificent glacier named after Agassiz by the Snpenntendent of the U.S.
Coast Survey.
I am in a position to state without reserve that the map furnished to the New
York Times by Schwatka, from the neglect to take existing knowledge into account,
has Mount St Elias placed about 30 miles out of its true position, and that any
hypotheses similarly based upon the Tebienkoff shore-lines are necessarily more or
less erroneous. As the distance from the shore at Icy Bay to the peak of St Elias
was not measured with any instrument of precision by the Schwatka party, the
distance remains uncertain, and as the boundary is a line parallel to the windhigs of
the coast, and ten marine leagues therefrom, the nationality of the apex is yet
uncertain. I am sure that if some of your Alpine climbers should be the first to
tread its virgin snow, and decide the point in &vour of the mother coxmisrj^
American geographers will not grudge the victory.
As the Schwatka expedition was due to American liberality and enterprise I
may venture to say that it is my opinion that if its leader had informed himself of
what was already known in regard to the surroundings of the mountain, he would
hardly have attacked the problem from the direction of Icy Bay. Any attempt from
there is foredoomed to failure. The sketch of St. Elias in my report on our work
there is enough to decide this at a glance, when it is remembered that the precipitous
face there exhibited is turned toward Icy Bay. An attempt to climb the mountain
with the slightest hope of success must be made from behind or along the range.
My own observations would indicate a point on the north-west shore of Takutat Bay
beyond the limits of the Malespina glacier and its torrents. There will be a rugged
region of at least 50 miles to traverse, with the snow-line (apart from glaciers)
between 2500 and 5000 feet above the sea, according to the exposure of the
slope. For clear weather. May or early June is the only time. The party should
be sufficient unto itself, and put no dependence on Indians. It is possible that a
couple of mules, used to mountain travel, might be of use in the early part of the
trip. The climb is no child's plav, and will require thorough training and equipment
to be practicable at all in the doubtful event that the natural obstacles are not
insuperable.
I am, &C.,
WiL H. Dall. •
The Secretary R.G.S.
( 44G )
THE ANNIVEESAET MEETING, May 23bd, 1887-
General R. Strachey, Vice-PresideBti in the Chair.
Elections, — SiunH Charles Francis Curnherland, Esq,; Ueu. Alfred Flower;
Bev, Ernest Awdry Gray/ Eerhert Giullaume, Esq, ; Alexatider MoUmann, Esq,
The proceedings commeDoed by the reading of the Rules which govern the pro-
ceeding-a at Anniversary Meetiags of tbe Society.
The Chaibmah then appointed Sir lUwsoN Raw son and Mr. Dyabon as
Scnitineers of the ballot about to take place.
Mr, DouoLAB W. Freshfield (Secretary) read the Annua! Report of the
Council, as followB ;—
REPORT OF THE COUNCIL.
The Council have the pleasure of submitting to the Fellows the following Report
on the financiiil and general cx)adition of the Society : —
Members. — The number of Fellows elected during the year (ending April 30th^
1887) was 206, besides three Honorary Corresponding Members* In tbe previous
year, 1885-86, the total elections amountetl to 173, and in 1884-85 the number was
190, Our losses have been, by death T6 (besides 5 Honorary Corresponding Mem-
bers), by resignation 52, and by removal on account of arrears of subscription 51 ;
making the net increase for the year 25. In the year 1885--86 there was an increase
of 16 ; in 1884-85 an increase of 13* The total number of Fellows on the list
(exclusive of Honorary Members) on the lat May was 3392.
Finance, — As will be seen by the annexed Balance Sheet, the total net income
for the financial year ending 31st December, 1886 (i.e. exclusive of balance in hand
and the donation from Miss Gill), was 7966L 9s., of which 5859L consisted of en-
trance fees and subscriptions of Fellowi, In the previous year, 1885, the total net
income was 7740^. 11 «. 5c?., and the amount of aubscriptiona, &c., 5625^*; in 1884
the two totals were 8464;* lis. 6Sii., and 6246?. 18«. id, respectively.
The net expenditure for the past year (i,e^ exclusive of balance in hand and the
investment of the Gill Memorial) was 7767L 18s. Old, The net eipenditure in
1885 was 80531. 12s. 4H.; in 1884, 9266?. Os* 6d,
The Finance Committee of the Council have held, as usual, Monthly Meetings
duriog the year, supervising the accounts of the Society. The Annual Audit was
held on the 6t!i April last, the Auditors being, on behalf of the Council, Sir Henry
Barkly and S. W. Silver, Esq., and on behalf of the Fellows at large, E. 0. Tudor,
Esq., and J. Dimcan Thomson, Esq. The cordial thanks of the Couacil and
Fellows are due to these gentlemen for having freely devoted their valuable time to
this important task. At the end of their labours the Auditors drew up the following
Report to the Council : —
Auditors* B^iorL—** The Auditors appointed for the examination of the Accounts
of the Royal Geographical Society for the year ended Slst December,1886, beg to report
that they have examined the Balance Sheet submitted, and have compared it with
the Cixah Book, Bankers' Book, Petty Cash Book, and other Account Books of the
Society, and have found the same to he correctly stated and aufSciently vouched*
They consider the Books to have been kept in a manner highly creditable to the
Accountant.
"The Investments have been augmented during the year by a donation of
THE ANNIVERSART MEETING.
447
lOOOZ. from Miss QUI in memory of her late brother, Captain Qill, B.S., and now
•consist of the undermentioned securities :— >
£. 8. d.
North-Eastem Railway 4 per Cent. Debenture Stock 1000 0 0
Oreat Indian Peninsula Railway 5 per Cent. Stock .. 4000 0 0
Great Western Railway 4t per Cent. Stock (Davis
Bequest) 1800 0 0
London and North- Western Railway 4 per Cent. De-
benture Stock (Murchison Bequest) 1000 0 0
€aledonian Railway 4 per Cent Preference Stock .. 2000 0 0
Norwegian 4 per Cent. Bonds 1000 0 0
New South Wales 3| per Cent Stock (Gill Memorial) 1028 0 0
India Stock 1000 0 0.
India Si per Cent Debentures 1000 0 0
Consols 3669 2 2
Consols (Peek Fund) 1000 0 0
Oonsols (Back Bequest) 561 0 8
Consols (Trevelyan Bequest) 510 4 0
Making a Total of £19,568 6 10
'' The Balance Sheet may be regarded also in other respects as satisfactory, since
the ordinary Receipts of the year exceed those of 1885 by 227(,, the Subscriptions
showing an increase of 501^., and the Sale of Publications with Advertisements, &c.,
of82;.
** The ordinary disbursement, on the other hand, — ^notwithstanding the cost of
publications was 377?. more — were reduced by 286?., in consequence of the saving
of expenditure on expeditions, which amounted to no less than 6232. As a result,
instead of a deficit of 314?. as in the previous year, there was a net surplus of 200?.,
as will be clear from the subjoined comparative statement : —
^„„ Ordiiwry ToUl Ezcewof
*"*"' Beoefptt. Expenditure. Ezpenditnre.
1885 7741 8055 314
Bxoeas of Berenue.
1886 7968 7768 200
the balance at the Bankers, and cash in hand, which stood at 325?. on the Slst
December, 1885, having been thus augmented on the 3l8t December, 1886, to
626?.
'* Should the revenue of the present year continue to improve in the same ratio,
and the cost of the Society's publications not exceed the average, it may prove
practicable to provide the 1000?. which the Royal G^eographical Society has engaged
•to contribute for exploration purposes in connection with the Emin Bey Relief Expedi-
tion which has started under the command of Mr. H. M. Stanley, without having
recourse to a sale of stock.
" The anears of subscriptions, valued last year at 465?., have decreased to 440?.
'^ The investments and assets of the Society, on 31st December, 1886, show an
increase during the year from 39,330?. 49. Id, to 40,533?. 15«. 6i(?.
(Signed) Henrt Babklt,
S. W. Silver, , , ^.
E.O. Tudor, }^«^^^*-
" 6th April, 1887.'* J. D. Thomson,
No. Vn.— July 1887.] 2 k
)
4i8
THE ANNIVERSART MEETING.
The followiDg BalaDCG Sheet and Statement, ishowlng the Boc^ipta and Expecdi^
ture of tlie Society from the year 1848 up to the [jresenl date, aro annexed to the
Keport of the Auditors :—
Mactipi^
BALANCE SHEET FOR THE YEAB 188G. Expmditure,
IBAti. t $, d.\ X f. dj
ISHS.
£
I. d.
£ f. d.
Bafancs la B&nk«T>' t
hj*rjda31«t Dpc, iSSft.. J
320 8 ft
/Totiw i —
Taitei And lofurancfi. .
114
I 0
Do, Acooimtonl'a do.
4 ft 4
B^palra And Fumfstiltig
124
13 T
324 17 3
Co^s, Om Mid Water
Mlacellmii^oiiii « . * .
04 4 1 n
SiOmTifUiom:—
8
3 0
For the mureat yev . .
aa&T 0 D
312 10 T
PAld inadTuuae .. ..
set 0 0
O#0e; —
Arrears.. .* .* ..
37& 0 0
SalJirift*
1134
6 4
47S7 0 0
SlAtioncry and Fiintinf
7n
1 1
Entrance Fret . . . .
. .
6^3 0 0
MUcctUaeoW . . . .
137
12 fi
« * • •
MO 0 0
1544 14 10
Paymmtt nutde In •nor
. .
44 6 3
Library i"^
*. ■ >
&00 0 0 j
S&1ar(«a and 0 ratut ilea
300
0 0
Hoyfal Frrmium . * . .
* .
62 10 5
Furdiii«e of &x»fes . .
130
i 11
Hent of Shop ii^d VaulU
. .
134 u a
BIndbiK
MlaoeLkneouA .. .,
47
14 4
Publicatitmt, B»lii of ..
351 t «
10
1 H
Ad^UietnenU In 'Pn>>
oedlogB' .. .. ..J
508 4 1|
189 1« 0
Map-EMmi-^
IK). Id £xhlbltltia(
44 fi 0
S«tUric8 «nd Gmtultles
a4&
0 0
PuTCtuiM of Map!l
34
11 1
fiSS 2 4
ImttramentH and Ec- 1
iwiw,. i
MbcelljjieoaB . . . .
Loan of IHoffmrnt ^ * ».
/'«yiM<w(t for Sdenttflci
InatmcttoD . . . * * , j
Donatiofi from Miss GIU
.. ..
10 10 0
Ifi IS 0
44
4ft
10 6
8 2
€70 » ft
Jftjp-Dmutnp-room :—
in mfmary of li«r iRtc
1000 0 0
SfcUrtea
370
0 0
broiLir, Ctopt. W. GIU.
• • >*
DmwlDBMkteiiaJi ..
12
6 10
l!.£. *. i. .. ..
3A3 0 10
243 16 8
i(%w<m^t.. ,
,,
—
IHvidevdtz
Mtdah and oUier ftfi'arda
,,
• '
174 19 4
North'Enjt*™ Hallway 1
SciendJUi i'urpaa
i per Cent Debenmre i
39 13 4
Oramt ,—
Stock.. .. 1000^ (
Sclentiric Inttnicllon . .
31
5 0
Great JndtAD Penln-Hula l
KxpeoM^ Mil iiCKrotiiit of 1
Geogmpbical Exhl- }
lUUway 5 pet lent. J
232 12 11
572
12 IH
Stock . . 40001. j
Wikin * i
Gre4l Western RjiJIway '
4i per OnL Stock -
L<mdcm *od NortL-
Paynient on Account of i
Map of W. Afriu.. }
3^
0 0
711 19 0
Puhl{caii!fmt :—
439 17 Hi
Weatern Hallway
'
Piiiitlnf ' Proreedlngi'
1192
4 0
4 per Cent. Deben-
as 13 4
2taps and Uliutrwduns
S34 12 a
ture Stock [ 91 Qfchl-
eon Ri quest] lom. ,
Pottase of * l*n>- 1
cero urge ' :
318
3 1
Cftledufiijui RjBdlway
Paympnra to Con- 1
4 per Cent. Preference
TT 6 8
tribuiore, Trftiwla- n
204
0 0
Siock .. aooot;
tlona, *c. . . . . . . 1
BoDdM ,. looof, '
38 13 4
Snppiemrnury Papers
199
3 1
l<kluciUunal lirpt^na..
n
17 7
New South WaIi>0 3i ^
Ed^ioTof PtibllcaUtKOfl
200
0 0
per Cent. Slock [Gill »
Memorl*!] loaAl. ^
It » 11
Mboelloneoua . , » .
3i
18 n
30«4 11 n
India St/>rk . . lOOOf.
38 la 4
Paynutitiln error returned
, ,
20 0 0
India :if jwr Cent, De- I
beniurt-s .. lOOOlcJ
33 It a
FwthaM of 102&L J^ew .
C^nt. mock (GUI Me-L
1000 0 0
OdiwqIs 3e69t. 3«. 3d,
104 A 0
"•
* *
„ [P«k FuikI) J
lOQOl. f
„ [Bftck Beqiint]
29 0 0
16 6 S
morlal) J
ExpenseH on account . i
EtMt A£r.can Kxpe-
..
191 17 0
„ f Trcvelyia Be-
quMt] &l(9l. 4t. Od. :
14 15 10
dlUun .. .. .. 1
ffeUtUite In Bankerf'
&07
19 3
IntCTMt on lOOtH. de-
liaiidB 3iai I>c 188e.«
pofilttKl from April l!i \
8 1 7
Duw AoGOOialAOt'A do.
17
9 5*
to X&vemlier fi .. . ,
424 8 H
t«4 7 7
£
£
93^3 4 ft
9293 4 9
REGINALD T. 00CK6»
Jr«a«ur«r.
Audittd and/ound torrett, ^th qf Aprils 1687,
HENRY BARKLY.l
S. W. SILVER, .
J. IK THOMSON, H
E. 0. TUDOK. J
Uudttor^,
^ THE AKNIVERSARY MEETING.
449 H
^^1 Statement ek>wing tbo BECEiFra and Exfenjoiture of the Society from the Yt^ir ^^|
^H ISiS to tlio 3lBt Dec, 1B86.
^H
Yttr.
CMb Recdpti
Gub AmouDts
Deducting ^^H
Amouota Lovfatfil ^^^H
witbLQ ibe Year.
InycBtcd )j} FondA.
In Fnrxlei; actual ^^^|
ExpendUurc. ^^H
£ i. d.
£ *. d.
t, ^^1
^H ^loelodes TroMQiy GraAt of looot.
28441
698 ]Q 5
7S5 6 1 ^^H
^H tor tlbB £ut AfrlcAQ E^iRtKt^oii.
1849
»T8 3 0
1,098 6 ^^M
^H "Inclndea Treimiry Grant of s&OOf.
^H for th« East Afrlcaa ExpecIltioD,
1850
1851 1
lBft3
1,036 10 Ci
1,0^6 11 8
1.320 3 4
906 14 7 ^^B
995 1 ^^H
^H OUvefm, IfiO«l. iTf. Id.
IRW
1,91? 3 e
1»615 0 ^^H
18M
a.5«5 7 8
3,191 19 3 ^^H
^H «!Dclaili*i Legacy of Mr. Alfred Dtavla,
ie&5
18fi«
3,5M T 0
'3,3ta 5 I
533 10* 0
3,636 3 1 ^^M
185T
3.143 13 4
379 0 0
3.469 19 9 ^^M
^H 'iDclmks Ugtcj of Sir Roderlek
1858
3.089 16 1
** * >
3,044 13 6 ^^M
^^B Uorobkcii. loool.
1859
3.411 U 8
950 0 0
3,433 3 9 ^^M
^^1 "iQclndcfl Mr. James Toting'^ Qimnt
^^1 for CoDgp Expcdl lion, aooQl.
I8ft0
I8fil
18«1
H,449 13 1
4.TB3 13 9
4.M9 T 9
46S 17 5
1,358 3 «
1,3*0 7 «
3 ^^H
4 ^^H
3.095 19 4 ^^H
^H *lDclDd«ti 1009 L 14«. ed. Bale of Ez-
1863
5*355 9 3
1»837 10 0
3,656 4 0 ^^H
^H cbeqaer Bills,
lftfi4
4.97T 8 i
1,196 5 0
S,64T 1 10 ^^M
^H >Inclii(kfl Mr. JuDCA Young's Qnuit
^H for tbe Oooco Expedltloo* 10411.
188S
1866
l8Af
4.905 8 3
5,085 8 a
5,183 t 11
1.041 5 0
1.038 16 0
1.929 0 <
4.307 ^^H
4.053 IS 0 ■
3,943 IT 4 1
1^68
6,991 4 0
1.851 3 9
4,156 11 ID 1
^^B "Iiuiludea ?4rlkm«auur7 Grant of
1869
*5,869 ll» 0
3.131 6 0
4.546 0 8 I
^^1 SOOOk io CftmeroD LjcptditJon.
IBIO
•8,043 6 1
3.8U3 5 0
3,M45 10 6 1
^H ^"lisdudM DonaUon of fiOOl. bj Mr.
^H CL J. Lttmbert.
18T1
1813
*6,e3» 3 T
•8,119 T 9
1,000 0 0
1.999 4 6
3.T36 4 4 J
5,871 13 2 ^^H
lais
'1,761 18 10
3.016 1 a
6,697 13 6 ^^H
^H ^'iDdQdM Legmcjr of Adminl Sir
18t4
"5^53 5 10 1
4D9 0 0
7.^16 3 3 ^^M
^H Qeorgu Back, 6401.
1B7S
1,034 IB 10
3.003 1 6
5.683 4 10 ^^M
^^P i^lBclaiIe« Legacy of StrW. C, Tre-
^^ T^ljaji^ 60OI.
11S76
I9t»
>ll,ail 11 8
i'»l,9S0 1 11
3,638 3"o
e.BlO 13 1 ^^M
8,940 17 11* ^^M
18? 8
"8.124 10 0
3,000 0 0
6.381 9 6 ■
^■Iiicliidei iao&£. &t« ad, lale of Ex-
lan
^>S,0t9 14 10
1.551 10 10
6.99U 14 3 ■
cbeqaer Billa.
1880
8,&99 1« 4
1,567 5 1
8.454 1 l&t m
''InclndcB lOooZ. Tcoelrcd tmm Mr.
a Leigh Smltb.
1881
1B«1
IBSa
8,809 19 5
^»S,94a 15 0
i<^9,699 i 0
1,001 6'*0
8,363 5 et ^^H
8.719 10 1 ^^M
8,634 3 11 ^^H
» 'Includei B«H. on loan from BanJteia.
1884
1*8,954 11 U
• •
9.»66 0 5 ^^H
i«I<icliid«a msL 01, lOd., flale cf IMia
Ddjentorea.
1886
1M80
'•8,738 13 3
i<7,9t8 9 0
1,000 0*0
8.555 3 10|- ^^M
18 Oi ^^H
i^nctiiiks DonaUon of lOOOl. inm
^^H
MisGm.
^H
• Ttila «&m lucludea Lbe BpeeLal ParliuiieDUrj Grant truulerred to the Ckmeroa
February, 1871.
t Thlt amonDi incliidf!« tli« paymecit of two muisa of fiOOL eacb, ooDtrlboted to tbo A
EbcpodltioD Fund Ld ^^H
JHcan E^loratloQ ^^H
Fiisd la this and the prevloiu jenr.
t Thi0 ram Lncludet tlies payment of U2h 9i. to tlie Afrleau Expkrattoa Ftmd; «li
^^^^1
BO 7141. 9t. Id., tbo ^^1
fiimpajmeut for Quoierciti EjEpedilkni t\Liid.
■
STATEMENT OF A R8ETS— Slit De
cemher, 1886.
F]re6liold House, Fittings^ and Fornitiir^ estiiiiAted (ex*l
^^H
cluMT© of Map Collections: and Library Insured fori
10,000?.) „ .. ,.)
20,000 0 0 ^H
19,568 6 10 ^H
Inveatmenia (amouQts of Stock), as detailed in the aboTei
Report of the Auclitors ., .. ..j'
ArroaJS due on December 31, 1S86, £1103 0 0,
^^H
Eetinifttedat .,
440 0 0 ^H
Bftliinfie at Bonk . .. . . - . - .
£507 19 ,
17 ^ h
525 8 8) ^H
in A GGonn tint's hands .. .. ^. .•
|4 XJja A a \iTnni.riJ 1 i WlMll M 'B 1 ITI iTJlirT •* «■ •■ ■* ■« «f ■■ w« '>' ^^
Total .. ..
£40,538 15 Gi ^^
PuWiaifiojis.— Tbe moEthly 'Proceedings' have been issued t
if'ith regularity ^^|
thoughout the year , the twelve numbers for 1866 fonning a voliime
of 847 pages, ^H
^
^1
450
THE ANNIVERSAET MEETIKG.
illustrated hj 23 maps and 7 pictorial diagrama. The total cost of the edition of
5000 copies (incluiling 318/. 2s, Id, for free delivery to Fellows and Institutions) was
i-i345/. IHs, 3t/, Froui this is to be deducted the amount of 585/. 2s. GtL received from
sale itf copies to the public and from advertisements. One part of the * Supple-
mentary Papera * (Vol. II., Part J.) was also issued duriog the year; the total cost
of which was 19SL Bs, Sd.
Scientific Purposes Qrant. — Duriog the past year ten intending travellers have
received instmctioDs from Mr. Coles in Practical Astronomy in the Society'a
Observatory, and in route-surveying with the theodolite and plane table, in the
country. The total number of hours devoted to teaching during the year waa 161.
Twenty-seven lessons in Photography to four iatending tmvellers have been
given during the year.
Inatrumeiita to the value of 115L have been lent during the past year to the
following tmvellers :--Mr. A. P. Maudelay, Gnateraala, 80?, ; MonT- H. M, P. de la
Marti nifere, Marocco, B5L
The silver half-chronometer watch lent to Rev. T. J. Comber (Congo Region) in
1881], has been returned broken^ and after being repaired was again lent to Mr. A,
P, Mandslay.
An instalment of 25?. has been paid on account of the Map of Western
Equatorial Africa in course of compilation by Mr, E. G. Ravenstein.
Qeograph%(^l Education, — The sum of 572/. 12f. Hid. has been disbursed during
the year on account of the Exhibition of Educational Appliances held in the winter
of 1885-6 ; and ISi, 17s. Id,^ the cost of printing the volume of '* Educational
ileports."
Map Boom, — The accessions to the Map Room Gollection duriDg the past year
comprise 1554 Maps and Charts on 1947 sheets ; 17 Atlases, containing 490 sheets
of Maps, and 548 Photographs and Views, Of these, 44 Maps, on 306 sheets,
4 Atlases, and 146 Photographs (including 31 Magic Lantern Slides) have been
purchased.
Among the most important donations to the Map Room Colleetion are : — 748
sheets of the Ordnance Survey of the British Isles (presented by the First Com-
missioner of Public Works, through the Director-General of the Ordnance Survey) j
244 sheets of British Admiralty Charts (The Lords Commissioners of tho Admiralty,
through the Hydrographer) ; 242 sheets of the various Indian Government Surveys
(H,M. Secretary of State for India); 21 French Charts (Service Hydrographique de
la Marine, Paris) ; 18 United States Charts (Commander J. R. Bar tie tt, u.s^n.,
Hydrographer to the Buruau of Navigation, Washington, B.C.) ; 22 Maps publiahed
in Petermann's * Geographisehe Mitteilungen * (Herr Justus Perthes) j 9 Maps
published by Dietrich Reimer (the Publisher); 6 Reduced Ordnance Maps of
Scotland, and 1 Map of Ireland, by J. Bartholomew (the Author) ; 39 Photographs
of the natives and scenery of New Guinea (Capt. C, Bridge, b.k.) ; 138 Fhoto-
s^jraphs of various parts of Fmnce and Italy (James Jackson, Esq., Paris); 192
Photographa of tho natives and scenery of Kashmir and the N*W. Frontier of
India (Prof, Thistleton Dyer) ; 22 sheets of Norwegian Government Surveys (Den
Geographiske Opmaaling Kristiania) ; 4 sheets of the Genemlstabens Toj>ographiske
Kaart over Danmark (The Danish Minister of War) ; 12 sheets (Part XXIX.) of
Topograpbischer Atlas der Schweiz (Section Topograph, du Bureau d'fitat Major
Feddral k Berne) ; Facsimile of the second Borgian Map, by Diego Ribero, Seville,
1529 (Sir A. J. Adderloy) ; Surveys of Ancient Babylon (Treiawney Saunders, Esq.) |
Carte G6>lugique du Turkestan Russe (Comity G^ologique H St. Petersbourg) :
UbersichtS'Karte der Ethnographischen Verhaltnbse von Asieu und von den
angrenzenden Theilen Europa's, von Yiuzena v. Haardt (the Author) j Synchronoua
T^E ANNIYERSARY MEETING.
451
Weathef Charts of the North Atlantic and the adjacent Continents, for e^ery day^
from Ist August, 1882, to aiat Auguat, 1883 ; Parte L and IL (Meteorological
Office) ; Atkus de la Republica Argentina ; Part I, (rinBtitnt G^ographique Argontin).
The Maps in the Society ^a Collection have been made frequent use of by the
FellowB of the Society, public offices, and the general public. The large Maps and
Views have been lent to illustrate lectures delivered at the meetings of learned
societies and public institutions, as well as to private individuals. Twenty-two new-
diagrams have been constructed on the premises, aud important alterations mode in
five others^ wbib one diagram has been drawn outside the biiilding, and tenders for
the construction of two more have been accepted.
Library^ — During the past year the presentations to the Library, by authors,
publishers, and others, have been more numerous than ever.
995 books and pamphlets have been added during the year ; 845 by donation,
and 150 by purctiase ; 160 pamphlets have been put in covers by the Society's map-
mounter, and 262 volumes have been bound.
The sum of 89^. 6^. 4d haa been spent in purchasing books, and the further sum
of %1L 16*, %d. in binding fc»r the Library*
Among the more important accessions are the following; — Schliemann's
* Tiryns ' j * Kombres Geogrdfioos de Mexico,* with separate Atlas (the Mexican
Government) ; the * Encjclopfladia Britannica,* 9tli edition. Vol, XXL (Messrs.
A. & C. Black) ; Richthofen's * Fiihrer far Forschungsreisende ' (the Publishers) ;
Henry's * Ling-Nam, or, Interior Views of Southern China* (the Publishers);
continuation of the Reports of the Scientific Results of the Voyage of the Challenger
(by the Lords of the Treasury) ; the publications of the Meteorological Office ; con-
tinuation of the General Report of the Survey of lodiaj and several volumes of
Max Miiller's * Sacred Books of the East ' (H.M. Secretary of State for India) ; con-
tinuatioDS of the Memoirs and Records of the Geological Survey of India (the
Indian Government) ; the Publications de TEcole des Langues Orientales Vivantes
(the French Minister of Public InBtruction) ; various publications of the De'i,)6t des
Cartes et Plans de la Marine, the Chinese Imperial Maritime Customs^ and the
Victoria and Queensland Governments ; Monographs of the United States Geologi-
cal Survey, Vols, IX. and XI., Bulletin of the U.S. Goolpgical Survey, and Fourth
and Fiftli Annual Reports of tbe U.8, Geological Survey (J. W. Powell, Director of
the Survey) j continuation of the Reports of the Tenth Census of the United States,
1880 J the Works of Hubert Howe Bancroft, 17 vols. ; Annual Report of the Geo-
logical and Natural History Survey of Canada (the Director of the Survey) ; the
Norwegian North-Atlantic Expedition (the Editorial Committee); Radde's ' Reisen
an dcr Persisch-RusBischen Grenze ' (the Publisher) ; * Die Internationale Polar-
forschung, 1882-83,' 4 parts (the Royal Academy of Sciences, Vienna) j Observa*
tiotis of the Intenmtional Polar Expeditions, 1882-€3, Fort Rae (the Meteorological
Office) ; the publications of the Prussian Geodetic Institute ; the Hakluyt Society *fi
publications; Sttibera ^Ski^zen aus Ecuador*; Verbeck^s * Krakatau/ with Atks
(the Government of the Netherlands) ; Legafe*a 'Record of Buddhistic Kingdoms* ;
PaulitBchke*fl * Ethnographie und Anthropologic der Som&l, GalJa und Hararl*;
Nordensklcild'H 'GrOnland* ; Justin Winsor's *Hifitory of America,* Vols* IL, III.,
and IV. ; Bassett*s • Persia ' (the Publishers) ; * Twent) -one Years* Work of the
Palestine Exploration Fund * (the Publisher) ; * Report n|X)n the Third International
Geographical Congress and Exhibition, Venice, 1881' (Gapt. G» M. Wheeler);
Norman's * Colonial France ' (the PublisherB) ; Brown & Bank's * Dictionary of the
Duke of York Island Language* [in Manuscript] (Rev. G* Brown) ; * The Dawn of
British Trade to the East Indies * (the Publishers) ; Rein's * Japan,* 2tea Band (the
Autkor) ; WoeikofiTs * Die Klimate der Erde,' 2 vols, ; Bartholomew's ' Gazetteer of
452
THE ANNITEESARY MEETING.
the Britisli Isles * (Mr, Bartbolomew) j Steinen's ' Dorch Central-BrasiJieu * ; Con-
der*B 'Syrian Stone-Lore'; UuWs 'Monnt Seir, Smai, and Western Palestine';
Marjnj's * Mdmoires et Documents pour scrvir k l*Ki8toir0 des Originea Fran^aises
des Pays Outre-Merj' Tome V* ; Mommsen's * Provinces of the Koman Empire,' 2
vols.; Eeclua' 'The Earth/ do. *The Ocean, Atmosphere and Life' (the Piiblisher).
Admiral Sir E. OMiiANKEY moved the adoption of the Report ; Mr. J. Thoksok
seconded the motion » which was agreed to.
PRESENTATION OP THE BOTAL MEDALS.
ThiBoyal Medals for the encouragement of Geographical Scicnco and Disoovery,
liAd l)6flD awarded fey the Council as follows :—
The Founder's Medal, to Lieuteo ant-Col. T. H. HOLUloff, b.e* ; in oonaideration
of the services he baa rendered to geograpliical scienco by the zeal and devotion
with which he lias carried out the surveys in Afghanistan ; first in 1878-80, when
be explored the Bori valley route and mapped tlie country near the BelucbLstan
border, and subsequently, as senior survey officer with the army in Northern
Afghanistan, a«:ended the Lughman Range ; in ISBl-SB, when in the course of hifl
surveys of the East-ern Afghan boundary be carried his instruments to the summit
of the Takht-i-Sulimsn ; and lastly in 1884-86, when, as chief of the survey party
of the Husso-Afghan Boundary Commission, be availed himself of the opportxmity to
extend the survey opemtioos over an area of more than 100^000 square miles. Also,
for his numerous valuable contributions since 1879 to the Society's * Proceedings^'
The Patron*s Medal to Mr. G. Gbekfell, for the extensive explorations he has
carried out during His thirteen years* residence in West Africa ; first in the CameroonB
country, and afterwards on the CJongo, and especially, for his reconnaissance surveys
of the tributaries of the Congo, eleven of which be has ascended, laying down their
courses in a series of preliminary charts on a large scale.
The Chaibman in presenting the Founder's Medal to Lieut- -Col. T. H. Holdich,
R.E., thus addressed bim ;— Colonel Holdich, the Council of the Royal Geographical
Society have by a imanimons vote awarded to you the Patron's Royal Medal, in
consideration of the great services you have rendered to geography in connection
with surveys, chiefly carried out in Afghanistan, during the last eight years. In
1878-79, whilst attached to a column of the Indian Army in Southern Afghanistan,
vou mapi^ed the country, then explored for the first time, north of Beluchistan along
the Bori valley » from the Britisli frontier ha the vicinity of the Indus to Piahin, weat
of Quetta. Jn the following year, in Northern Afghanistan, you were the first
Englishman to ascend the Pagbman range which lies between Kabul and the passes
of the Hindu-Eush, and duriijg the whole of the military operations in those years,
your Ecal and iotelligontse contributed greatly to the success of the geographical
exploration carried out, which has added about 40,000 square miles to the area before
surveyed and mapfjed.
In 1S81-83, when in charge of survey operations on the Afghan boundary of
British India to the west of the Indas, you reached tlie summit of the Takht-i-
Suliman, being the first European wlio had ascended that mountain, and from that
elevation were able to obtain much insight into the topography of hitherto un-
explored regions west of the Sulimani range, and the routes between India and
Candahar passiog through it.
Lastly when appointed to be Chief of the Survey party attached to the Joint
Commia«ion for settling the Russo- Afghan Boundary yon were able with the
co-operation of the excellent staff of oflScera under you to complete a survey covei^
jng an area of not far from 120,000 square miles, extending from Khoraasan and
«
THE ANNITERSAEY MEETING.
453
South-eastern Persia to tbe Upper Oxus, These aaccessfd results liave largely
been due to your owu energetic aiiperviaion.
I may add that it ia with special perBonal satisfaction to myself lb at I discharge
the aj^reeable duty of haDdiug you thia Medal, and that I reco^oise ia you, and
the officers associated with you in your labours, worthy upholders of the traditions
of the distinguished Corps of Royal Engineers to which we all have the honour to
belong.
Lieut. -Col, HoLBicH in expressing bis deep sense of the honour conferred upon
him, said, that Turkistan was far away even from India, and although no record
had been published of the work of the Afghan Boundary Commission, yet it would
easily he understood by geograpliers that to carry a connected survey from lodia
into those seemingly endless wastes, and to establish a geodetic connection with
the Indian Survey was a problem far beyond the capacity of any single officer.
That he succeeded was really owiog to the very able and energetic assistance he
received from others. It was on the shoulders of Major Gore and Major Talbot of
the Engineers that the burden of the scientific work of the Commission really
fell, and although geographical map-making should be regarded rather as a large
iocident than the object of tbe Commission, aod it was to the energy of those
officers supported by a small staff of native assistants that such a measure of suooesB
was duo as they had been able to attain. In the name of thoee officers as well as
in his own, he thanked tbe Society for the honour conferred upon them, and for the
high compliment that had once again been paid to the Department to which they
ail belonged,
llie Chairman, in banding the Patron*B Medal to Mr. Grenfell, said : The Royal
Medals entrusted to this Society for rewarding signal services in the cause of geo-
graphical science and discovery have often been adjudicated to African explorers,
but rarely have they been given to a tmveller who has labouretl so long and con-
tinuously and to such good purpose as yourself. It is now thirteen years since you first
began that series of explorations of the rivers of the African continent, for which the
Mission on which you wc^re engaged afforded you opportunities, and the highly in-
telligent and persevering prosecution of which has enabled you to add so greatly to
our accurate knowledge of previously unknown regions.
In your earlier journeys in the Cameroons country, between 1874 and 1881, you
travelled some 1300 miles on foot, and more than 5000 miles tn canoes, ascending
and charting the rivers as far as they were navigable. During one of your brief
visits to England you communicated to the Society an account of these explorations
which was published in our * Proceedings ' for 1882. Your subsequent journeys in
the large field of the Congo basin, carried out in the coarse of your labours for the
Baptist Misaiouary Society, who were the first to occupy the new ground o[)€ned by
the discoveries of Stanley, commenced with the arrival of the steamer Fcace at
Stanley PooL Your first journey in this steamer, on which you and your colleague,
the Eev. Mr. Comber, ascended the Bochini river, was the beginning of a brilliant
sucoetaion of ejtplorations of the main Congo and its tributaries, which continued until
your departure from Africa a few weeks ago.
Yon ascended the ^reat northern aflluent, the Mobangi, through 5^ of latitude ;
and most of the southern, as well as other northern tributaries of the Congo,
the courses of which were previously totally unknown, were explored and maiiped
by you, in every case as far as they were navigable.
In all these ad V en tiu*ous voyages, amidst the anxieties and dangers of journeys
through countries peopled by distrustful or hostile savages, you never lost sight of the
need of geographical precision. Your course was plotted from hour to hour by an uq^
interrupted system of dead reckoning and compasa bearings, conected by frequent
464
THE INKIYERSART MEETING.
I obaeiratioDS for latitude. And when jour field-books and large-scale charts fihall
have beta checked and revised, they will aupply an addition to geographical knowledge
rarely obtained by one traveller in a pioDeer journey through an unknown country.
Mr. Ghenfell having received the Medal/said he very highly esteemed the dis-
tinction which the Society had conferred upon him. Next to the confidence of his
own Committee he should value the appreciation which the Royal Geographical
Society had ihown of hia work. He could not say that it would inapire him to
I further devotion in the cause of geography, for his irjterest in that direction had
never neeiled any stimulant. Ever since he was a schoolboy geogra|ihical matten*
had had a charm for him, and ho remembered how greatly he was surpriseii when
he found that his Echool follows did not take the same interest in them that he
himself did. This feeling of surprise in later years gave place to one of keen
regret that a country like England, which was so largely de|)endent upon it&
colonies, should neglect the study of that science. While abroad he had been
greatly encouraged to hear of tiie renewed attention which had been given in that
direction by people at home, Ue was also greatly cheered to find that the Society
had set itself to the work of popularising geographical instruction in schools, and he
hoped that their efforts would be eminently successful. They had, however,
awakened very late to the realisation of the importaoce of the matter, and not
before vital interests had been put in peril The increased attention that was now
being jjaid to geography might yet, he trusted, result in a healthy public opinion
which would save the country from threatened disaster.
The Awabj5 of the MuEomsoN and Back Grants anh the Gill Memorial,
The Chaibkan announced the following awards : —
The MuRruTH'^K Ghakt for 1887, to Mr* Gkoiige Boubne, second in command^
and now sole survivor of the Landsborough Expedition which crossed the continent
of Australia in 1861, in search of Burke aod Wills.
The Back Pbehidu for 1867^ to Sabat Cbakpba Dbab, for his researches m
Tibet,
ITie Gill Memorial for 1887, to Mr. J, F, Keehham, in recognition, of his
services in exploring the valley of the Lohit Brahmaputra between Assam and the
Zayiil Valley of Til«t.
Ko grant was made this year from the Cuthbert Peek Fund,
The three Honorary Corresponding Memberships for 1887 bad been voted to
H.R.H. Kboh Mxrs Dambong Rajah Kubhabp, Director- General of Surveys,
Siam ; Dr. A. Kibcuoff, Professor of Geograpliy at the University of Halle; and Dr.
F. Nauhan'x, late Director of the Geographical and TuiKigraphical Survey of Japan. ^
The Ballot for the new Council was then taken.
* The Mei>ai* for the Pxomolion of Geographical Education, placed by the Society
at the dii|K)&al of the Syndicates respectively of the Oxford and Cambridge Local
Exatninations, were awarded as follows ;—
188G. Oxford (June).— 5i7tTr Jlf^iiaZ— Arthur Kent Chignell, Brockley. Bronte
Medal— T)&\'id Lamlalo Johnston, Boston.
t:amhridge (December). ^- Silver Medal — (Physical Geogrraphy) — Arthur
Thomas Maaterman. SHner Medal — (Political Geography)— Edith Apple-
yard.
The Prizo Atlases offered by the Society for Geographical Pro6cieQcy to tbe cadets
of the Nautical Training Collcfres on hoard H.M. shi|>s Worcetter and Gmtcafj^ were
awarded, at the examinatioas htld in July 188G^ to the following : — John David Aaron
(Woroenfer training-ship); John Byasa Watson {ihniray train in g-ahip).
BEPOBT OF THE EVENING HEETINOa. 455
THE ANNUAL ADDRESS.
The Ghaibm AN delivered the Annual Address on the Progress of Geography in
the year 1886-7. {Ante, June No., p. 331.)
Sir H. Eawlinson said that for over thirty years he had attended the Annual
Meetings of the Society, but he did not remember that he had ever listened to a
discourse from the chair which he considered more worthy of a Scientific Society.
Sketches of travels and explorations were very interesting, but geography was a
more serious matter than a collection of anecdotes and voyages. It had been treated
in a serious manner by the President, greatly to the edification of those who had
listened to him. In conclusion he proposed a vote of thanks to General Strachey,
and wished him a successful presidential career.
Sir Joseph Hookeb seconded the vote of thanks, which was agreed to.
On the concliision of the Address the Scrutineers announced that the List of
Officers, as recommended by the Council, had been unanimously voted. The Ck>ancil
for 1887-8 is therefore constituted as follows (the names printed in italics being new
Members or those who change office) : —
President : — General Richard Straehey, bjb., c.8.1., p.b.8. Vice-Presidmiis :
Bight Hon. Lord Aherdare, g.cb., f.b.8.; Sir Eutherford Alcock, k.o.b.; Sir
Joseph Hooker, k.c.s.i., c.b., f.b.8.; Major-General Sir H. G. Rawlinson, k.c.b. ;
General Sir C. P. Beauchamp Walker, k.o.b. ; Colonel E. Yule, b.k., c.b. Treasurer :
Reginald T. Cocks, Esq, Trustees : Sir Barrow H. Ellis, k.o.bj. ; Sir J. Lubbock,
Bart., F.B.8., M.p. Secretaries : Clements R. Markham, Esq., c.b., f.b.s. ; Douglas
W. Freshfield, Esq. Foreign Secretary: Lord Arthur Russell. Members of
Council : Sir Henry Barkly, g.c.m.g., k.o.b. ; W. T. Blanford, Esq., f.b.s. ; Admiral
Lindesay Brine ; Hon. G. C. Brodrick ; J. Annan Bryce, Esq. ; Colonel Sir Francis
AV. De Winton, b.a., k.o.m.g. ; Bight Hon, Sir M. E. Grant Duff, g.c.8.i. ; Francis
Gallon, Esq,, f.b.8. ; Major-General Sir F. J. Goldmid, K.o.s.i., c.b. ; Colonel J. A.
Grant, c.b., f.b.8. ; Sir John Kirk, G.O.M.G., f.b.8. ; Lieut-General Sir Peter 5.
Lumsden, g.o.b. ; Colin Mackenzie, Esq. ; William Mackinnon, Esq,, c.i.E. ; E»
Delmar Morgan, Esq. ; Cuthbert E. Peek, Esq., f.b.a.8. ; Sir Bawson W. Bawson,
K.C.M.G., aB.; Sir Thomas F. Wade, k.cb.; Captain W. J. L. Wharton, b.n.;
General J. T. Walker, c.b., fas.; Colonel Sir Chas, W. Wilson, B.B., k.c.m.g.
EEPOBT OP THE EVENING MEETINGS, SESSION 1886-7.
Thtrteenih Meeting, June 6th^ 1887. — General B. Stbachet, b.e.. President^
in the Chair.
Pbesbntations. — Colonel Edmund Mdyneux ; F. E. Joseph, Esq.
Elections. — Alfred Edward Carey, lEsq,; Walter G, Gifford, Esq,; Isaac
Crawford McLeam, Esq., m.d. ; William Owen, Esq, ; Mayor Power (84M Foot) ;
John Spencer Price, Esq, ; Samuel Sandars, Esq., m.a.
The paper read was : —
" A Journey through Manchuria.** By H. E. M. James, Esq.
Will be published, with map, in the August Number of the ' Proceedings.'
( 456 )
PEOCEEDINGS OF FOEEIGN SOCIETIES.
deofrapMcal Society of Paris^ May Cth, 1887 : M. W. Hubeb in the
Chair, — The General Secretary stated that the Society was in commiinicatioB with
the Minister of Commerce regarding the project for holding a retrospective exhibition
of French Science in connection with the Exhihjtion of 1889. — The Commercial
Geographical Society of Havre Bent the programme for this year's Congress, to be
held shortly in that town- — Among the works present^ was a brochure, by M. G.
Demanche, entitled ' D^ Alger h Kaironan,* which gives an account of his jonrney
and of the progress of colonisation in Tunis,— Dr. H. I^abonne, in a letter of 11th
of Aprilj announced his departnre uixjh a new voyage to Iceland. The volcanoes
and glaciers will again he the object of bis special study. — A note on the ortho-
* graphy of the word " Tibet" was read from M. L, Peer, of the National Library ,^ —
Some information as to Lieutenant-Colonel Gallieni*s operations in the countries
between the Senegal and Gambia was aflbrded in several letters which were read.
It would appear from these that the two columns charged to operate against
Mahmadou-Lamlne at Diana, have surveyed all the country as far as the Gambia;
one party of oflScers traversed the territory between the Bafing and the Faleme, and
another, under Captain Oberdorf, pushed forward as far as Dinguiray and returned
to Kita, The French Protectorate has been extended over all the provinces up to
the Gambia* The Uassnlu mission is now crossing the Great Beledugu, Its return
will probably be effected through the countries of Amana, ISalega, and Nahu. The
unexplored triangle between the Bafing and the Bachoi will be surveyed and the
valley of the Upper Niger more thoroughly studied. The geographical results will
be communicated to the Society.— M. P. Dufourcq forwarded two letters from M* P.
Cholet, Governor of the Niadi-Lndima region. The writer had arrived at Bnucza-
ville from a journey down the valley of the Niadi, He intended to travel from
Buanza to the Ogowc and then from France ville to M'Luete. — A communication
was read from Dr. Rouire on the Dolmens of Enfida. — Dr, Hamy sent a paper on
the ruins of Copan, which was a reply to M, H. de Charencey. — News of M.
ChaQanjon's expedition was received in two letters from the traveller himself, the
latter of which was dated 25 th March, from Ciudad Bolivar, He had returned from his
journey to the Upper Orinoco and had achieved a great success, having very thoroughly
studied the source of that river and its connection with the Amazons by means of
the Casfiiquiari* He had determined the course of the Orinoco by nearly 100 astro-
nomical observations. A chain of mountains in the form of a fan surrounds the
sources of the river, to a jjortion of which he had given the name of De Lesseps.
The Guaharibos Indians, who inhabit the upper valley, are a great source of terror to
the other tribea. M. Chaffanjon intendLd to return to France in July after he had
completed the second part of his program me, which included an excursion from Goura
to the sources of the Essequibo. — Some notes on M. Eamon-Llsta's recent expedition
to Tierra del Fuego were communicattd by M. H. L*Huisaier, of Buenos Ayres.
The traveller is of opinion that frost is practically unknown in the island, such is
the extreme humidity of the climate. Two skirmishes took place with the natives.
The latter wear hardly any clothing and live in boles dug in the ground; their bows
and arrows are of the most primitive descriptiou. They subsist on the produce of
the chase and on the leguminous plants with which the region abounds. — A
communication was read from M, Guignet, suggesting the creation of permanent
subterranean stations for provisioning expeditions to the Arctic regions instead of
cairns. The knowledge of the geology of Greenland and those districts could thereby
be increased .^The Chairman intimated the presence at the meeting of a very
PROCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES.
457
distingxiielied Austrian traveller, M. Ed. Gloser, late aatroDomer of the Yienna
Obs«rvatorj- He said tliat among otber results of tfae traveller's jotimey in Yomea
was the aHtronomical detemimatioTi for the first time of the longitude of the town
of Sanaa- He hojjed that M, Glaaer would at aome future time lay an account of
hla expedition before the Society.— The General Secretary announced that M. H.
Coudreaii was on the eve of departure to Guiana^ to continue his researches there.
His principal object of exploration was the Tiimuc-Humac range, which Dr. Crevaux
crosaed.— His Highness Priuoe of Monaco then gave a resume of the results of his
second scientific voyage in the North Atlantic on board the EirondeUe. He
detailed the move men ta of the various floats placed aome time previously in different
spots. The zoological information obtained is very valuable. The temperatures
were taken at different depths along a line from Brittany to GaUcia, — In conclusion,
a paper was read by M, Decazes, from the Congo, giving some interesting information
of the countries traverBed by him during the hiat four years. He ascended the
Ogow^ in a canoe. The Pahuins wiU, according to him, in a very few years have
extended aver the whole valley uf the river. Although very quarrelsome and
warlike, theae people have a taate for work and trade. Tlje last Pahuin vilkges
are now found a little above the Lolo. After this point the Chehos and Adtimaa are
met with. The traveller visited the country of the Batekes and gave a very
instructive account of the manners and customs of the natives. He navigated most
of the tributaries of the Ogowd and the Alima, The Apfurns inhabiting the banks
of the latter river trade chiefly in manioc.
May 20tb, 1887: M. W. Hdber in the Chair.— The Seientific Asso-
ciation of Fmnoe announced that the date of tbe opening of the year'a Congress had
been fixed for September 22nd. The Congress would be held at Toulousej and would
close on the 29th September. — A letter was read from Dr. Labonne, dated 0th May,
from Reykjavik (Iceland), according to which he was about to attempt to double
Cape Nord, if not prevented by icebergs. — From Taahkend, on I4th March,
M. B. Muller, a member of the Society, wrote, annoimcing the departure of MM.
Capua and Bonvalot from Margilan, T}ie writer had received a letter from M. Capua,
accordijag to which M. Bonvalot was at Osh, endeavouring to ascertain whether the
pass of AM WAS practicable* The latter had jufit telegraphed to his companions to
move forward* The perils of this enterprise were, according to the writer, very great.
H. Maillet informed the Society that he had received a letter dated 15th March,
from M. Bonvalot, who was then at the camp of Ak-Ba»oga, at the foot of tbe defile
of Taldyk, and four days* march from Lake Kara-knl, — The Marquis de Roche^
mooteix stated that M. A, de Barncl, an engineer in the service of the Argentine
Republic, was making some useful explorations in Chaco. — The Chairman announced
the presence of Dr. Junker, to whose valuable geographical work he referred in
graceful terms. Dr. Junker then gave a rapid sketch of his travels, which will
appear in the next number of the *Compte Rendu/ M. Dutreuil de Hhins asked
the traveller a question as to tbe connection between the Welle -Ma kna and the
Mobamgi, to which Dr, Junker replied that he was unable at present to say anything
definite on the subject. — The Ghaimian stated that His Highness Prince of Monaco
had started for Kewfoundland* — The General Secretary announced that an exhibition
would be opened at the Trocadero Museum on 23rd May, of the collections and
objects brought home by M, J. Martin from Eastern Siberia.— M. Jacottet presented
on behalf of the publishers the third volume of the * Blcttonnaire de G^pgraphie
Universelle,* the entire work would be complete in five volumes, and the Seoretary
laid on the table two Memoirs, by Roland Bonaparte, one entitled * Notes on the
Lapps of Finmark/ and the other * Le fleuve Augusta' (New Guinea).^ — Dr. Delisle
communicated an extract from a letter from Dr. Hamy, who is fulfilling a scientific
NEW GEOGRAPHICiX PUBLICATIONS.
mission in Tunis. He had reached the south of Tunis after considerable fatigue,
and hod obtained some interesting anthropological Information, — In conclnBion,
M. H- Duveyrier gave a resumS of the results of his mission of exploration in the
unknown part of North Morocco.*
NEW GEOGEAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS-
(Bj J. Scott Esltib, Librarian B.a.s.]
EUEOPE.
Saddeley» M. J. B,— Thorough Guide Series, The Northern Highlands (Scotland
Part IJ,) containing a full description of Aberdeen, Inverness, Loch Marce, and
Gairloch, and of the Mainknd north of those places in the counties of Aberdeen,
Banff, Elgin and Nairn, Inverness, Ross, Cromarthy, SutherlBnd, and Caithness.
Third edition. London, Dulan & Co., 1886 : 12mo,, pp. ixr. and 138, maps and
plans. Price 3s. ^id, [Presented by the Publisher.]
— — and C. S. Ward,— Ditto, Korlh Wales (Part I,) Chester, Bhyl, Llan-
dudno, Bangor, Llanrwst, Bettws-y-Coed, Carnarvon, Llanberis, Beddgelert, and
Ffestiniog Sections. London, Dnlau ife Co., 1887 : ISmo*, pp. xxiiii, and 218,
maps and plans. Price 3a. 6d, [Presented by the Publisher »]
Baadaker, K, — The Rhine, from Rotterdam to Constance, Handbook for Tra-
vellers. With 30 maps and 22 plans. Tenth revised edition. Leipeic, Karl
Baedeker ; London, Dulau & Co., 1886 ; 12mo., pp. iiiv. and 410. Price B$.
[Presented by Messrs. Dulau & Co.]
[Italy-]^Annuario Statistico Italiano, Anno 1886. Roma, Tip. Eredi Botta,
1887 r 4to„ pp. cckxxv. and 1102.
Leyat, E.— Katalo^ der meteorologischen Beobachtangen in Rusaland nnd Finn-
land. VierterSuppIementband sum Reper tori um fiir Meteorologiej herausgegeben
von der K. Academio der Wissenschaften. St. Petersburg, 1887 ; 4to., pp. xxiL
and 435,
Eykatschew, M. — Uber den Auf- und Zugang der Grewaaser dea Russischen
Reiches. Zweiter Supplementband zum Repertorium fiir Meteorologie, heraus-
giegeben von der Kaiserlichen Academie der Wissenscbaften, St. Petersburg,
1887 : 4to., pp. 103 and 309, maps.
WaM&l, E. — Wahre Tagesmittel nnd Tagliche Yariation der Temperatur an 18
Stat ion en des Russischen Reiches. Dritter Supplementband zum Repertorium
fiir Metoorologie, herausgegieben von der K. Academie der Wissenschaften.
St. Petersburg, 1887 : 4to., pp. ixL and dxxxvi.
Ward, C. S. — Thorough Guide Series, The Eastern Counties, their Watering
Places, their Cathedral Cities, and other places of interest, tc^ether with the
approaches from London. Second edition revised. London, t)u1au & Co., 1886 :
12mo., pp. xvi. and 131, maps and plans. Price 2s. 6d [Presented by the
Publisher.]
Will be published in the * Quarterly Balletin.'
KEW GEOGRAPHICAL PtJBUCATIONS.
169
ASIA.
[India-] — TrigODOtnetrical BraDcK, Survey of India, Spirit-Leveled Heights, No. 1,
Madras Presidency, Seasona 1869-85. Pr^epared ia the Office of the Trigono-
metrical Branch, Survey of Indift, Colonel C. T. Haig, r.e., Offg, Deputy
Surveyor General, in Charge. Puhlished under the orders of Lieut.-Col H. It.
ThuilUcr, n.E^, Offg, Surveyor General of India. Behra Bun, printed at the
Trigonometrical Branch Office^ Survey of India, 1886 : 8vo., pp. xviii* and 188,
diagrams,
Do, Nob. 2 and 3, Bombay Presidency and Nizam^s Dominions, Seasons
1877-^0, Bevised edition. Prepared, &c, Bebra Dun, printed at do., ISSG:
8vo.» pp. xix* and 112, diagrams.
SementSf D. — DremoBti Minusinskago Mns^ya. Pamktniki metallicheakikh
epokh, Tomsk, 1886 : pp. 185, 21 plates in separate cover.
This little work, preafiuted by the Public Museum of Minusinsk, through
N* Martianof, a member of the ConamitCee, contains a description of prehistoric
antTqiiities discovered in the district of Minusinsk on the Upper Yenisey in the
iouth-wefit of Eastern Siberia. The objects described and figured in the plates are
in bronze, copper, and iron. They compnae a variety of arms and implements
auch as daggere^ knives, wedge-shai>ed and spftde«shaped tools, masks, mirrors,
horse-karnesSj bracelets, |)ottery, &c. Some of these relica arc superior in
design and execution to anything one oould have expected from auch a nide
age. The handles of two of the mirrors represent animals— the horned sheep
and the horse. Among other monuments mentioned by M. Elements in the
introduction to his book are the miiie inscriptions and hieroglyphs on the rocks
bordering the rivers of that country, copies of which have been sent to the
Imperial Archaiological Society at St, Petersburg, These are said to bear a
strong resemblance to the writing of the savage Lolo tribes described by
Mr. Col borne Baber (see *R. G.S. Supplementary Papers,* vol. L p. IIIG). —
[E. D. M.]
l[or86t Edward 8.^P<Jftbody Academy of Science. Memoirs.^ — Yol. IL Japanese
Homes and their Surroundings, Salem, Mass., Feabody Academy of Science,
1886 : large 8vo., pp. xxxiil and 372, illuHtrations, [Presented by the Peabody
Academy of Science.]
This work is mainly architectural. There are descriptions of the Japanese
House, its construction, &c. ; the Types of Houses; Interiors; Entrances and
Approaches; Gardens; the Ancient House; and the Neighbouring House,
including that of the At no, the Bonin Islander, the Loochooan, the Korean,
and the Chinese.
Taa der Stoki [Br,] J. F.^ — Eegenwaamemingen in Nederlaudsch-Indie. Zevende
Jaargang, 1835. [Hainfall in the East Indian Archipekgo, Seventh Year,
1885.] Batavb, Landsdrukkerij, 1836: 8vo., pp, xlL and 408.
AFBICA.
Butler, [Colonel Sir] W. F. — The Campaign of the Cataracts, being a personal
narrative of the Great Kile Expedition of 1884-0. London, Sampson Low & Co.,
1887 I 8vo., pp. vii. and 389, Price 18j. [Presented by the Publisher,]
The important part played by Sir William Butler in the great Nile expedi-
tion for the relief of Khartum ia well known, both in getting the boata built in
this country and in guiding them up the river with the aid of his CauEidian
voyaqeurn. Ho tells the story of the unfortunate exj^edition with the power
and picturesqneneas familiar to readers of the * Great Lone Land.* Of course no
new ground was passed over, but Sir William Butler's description of the various
stages of the river journey and of the f^Mitures on its banks have a geographical
value* The work is an important contribution to the sti^ry of this great
campaign. There is a good mnp, and several Illustrations by Lady Butler.
460
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
Payiie*8 Lagos and West African Almanack and Diary for 1887. A Book of
Geneial RefercncG and Icfonnatioo. With illustrations. The Fourteenth Year
of Issue. London, printed by T. G. John&on : large 8vo., pp. 200, [Pfesent^
by John A. Payne, Esq,]
Zabala, Amado Osorio^ — Vocabulary of the Fan Language In Weat-em Africa,
8oQth of the Equator. With Spanish Interpretation prepared on the spot.
London, Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, 1887 ; 12nio., pp. vi. and 34.
[PreseBted by R. K. Cnst, Esq.]
AMERICA,
[America, ITjiited States.iHDepartment of the Interior, United States Geological
Survey, J* W» Powell, Director, Mineral Resources of the United States,
Calendar Year 1885. Division of Mining Statistics and Technology, Washington,
Government Printing Office, 1886 ; 8vo*, pp. vii. and 576. [Presentc*! by the
Director of the United States Geological Survey.]
New Tork, D, Appleton
Andrews, C* C. — Brazil, its Condition and Prospects*
A; Co.» 1887 : cr. 8vo., pp. 352. Price 75. BrI,
' Describes the present condition of things in Braxil, including its Situation,
ReBOuroes, and Climate ; a description of Rio and its People, their Life and
Manners ; American -Brazilian Relations ; PubUo Instruction ; Parliamentary
Governmeut; Agriculture and Stock-raMng ; Pubho Lands and Immigra*
tion, &c., &c,
BritiBh Guiana: its Past Historj% Present Position, and Future Prospects in
relation to Venezuela. A Lecture delivered by Hugh Watt, m,p,, at Exeter Hall,
on the 25tli April, 1887. 1887 ; 8vo., pp. 31.
[Chili] -"Sinopis Estadistica y Geo^ralica de Chile en 1886. Gfimna Central de
Eetadiatica. Santiago de Chile, 1887 : 8vo., pp. 54,
Anuario de la OEcina Central Meteorolojica de Chile, publicada por la
Comision de Meteorolojia, Tomo 18*^, corresfKindiente a 1886. 6° Cuaderno,
Setiembre i Octubre* Santiago de Chile, Imp. Nadonal, 1887 : 8vo.j plate.
[GuatemalaO — Infonno de la Direccion General d© Estadistica, 1886 : Guatemala,
Tip. de Pedro Arenales, 8vo,, pp. 40,
[-- — - — ] — Dlrectorio de la Ciudad de Guatemala, compilado por la Direcoioa
General de Estadistica, Afio de 1886, Guatemala, Tip. de Pedro Arenales, 8vo.,
pp. 296.
Karr, H. W* SetOE. — Shores and Alps of Alaska. London, Sampson, Low & Co.,
1887 : 8vo*, pp. xiv. and 248. Price 165. [Presented by the Publishers.]
In the paper which Mr. Seton Knrr read before the Society (* Proceedings,'
1887, p. 269), he described the leading neaults of his visit to Alaska, so far as
Mount St. Eliaa is concerned. But Mr. Karr saw mucli more of Alaska, and in
this volume gives a considerable amount of information on the places visited by
him, and the condition of the inhabitants among whom he sojourned. Mr. Karr
crossed Canada by the Pacific railway in Juno 1886, proceeded up the coast
to Bitka, and thence in company with Lieutenant Schwatka and others he
ascended Mount St. Eliaa by Yakatat and ley Bay ; this attempt he describea
in this volume, and in the paper nbivo referred to. After leaving St. Elias,
Mr. Karr proceotied westwards to Kaiak Island, and thence by the delta of the
Cupper liver, which he descriheit, to Nuchuk Island. While waiting here,
Mr. Karr saw a good dial of the Cnpp*-r Riverlnrlians, and has much to say about
them. After having made up his mind to winter at Nuchuk, Mr, Karr obtained
KEW GfiOGRAPmCJLL PUBUCATIONS.
161
a pMnge in October m the tdiooner KodiaJf to St. Faul» Ecdiak Island, und
tiMDoe to San Francisco, after about four moDths* sojourn in Alaska. Besides
tba large map rcfpmduced from the ' ProceedmgSi* there laiaaiaU gtticnd map of
Alaska^ and a sketch-map of Mount St ELiaa. The iUufitimtioDs are of the cheap
" process ** kind, and not very satisfactory.
Xartm, K.— Westindische Skkxen. Mit 22 Taleln und eiiker Karte. Leiden,
E. J. BriU, 1887 : royal 8vo., pp. Tii. and 186. Price 16^ (Ihdau,)
In 1884-6, HeiT Brill, in coiupany with several ooUeagues, undertook a
visit to the Dntdi West Indies for tie special purpofie of studying their
geology^ The present publication is the first section of a work in which Herr
Martin will describe the complete results of his travels. The present part is
devoted to the general aspects of the couutriee and peoples visited ; the sub^*
quent volume will deal mainly with the geology.
Miimesota, The Geological and Natural History Survey of. The Thirteenth
Anuual Report, for the year 1884. N. H, WiuchoU, SUte Geologist St Paul»
The Pioneer Press Co., 1885 : 8vo., pp, 196, plates,
The Fourteenth Annual Report, for the year 1885. St Pan), J, W, Cun-
ningham & Co,, 1886 : 8vo., pp. 353, plates,
[These Re|K>rts were presented by N. H, Winchell, State Geologist]
[Badfordi Alfred.]— Jottings on the West indies and Panama. Loudon, pnnted
by W. Wbiteley, 1886: 12mo., pp, 103. [Presented by the Author.]
An account of a voyage to the West Indies and Cent ml America, during
which the author visited St* Thonias, Barbadces, Grenada, and Trinidad j
Caracas, Curasao, Baranquilla, Carthagena, Colon, PaoMna, Greytown, and New
Orleans. Appended are a few remarks on Panama, the Caual, CVilon, tlie
Nicaraguan Canal, the Taking of Cartbagena, and the Gulf of Mexico*
Eoberts, Morley,— The Western Avemus, or Toil and Travel in Further Kortb
America. London, Smith, Elder & Co*, 1887 ; 8vo., pp. 307. Price 7#. 6d,
Francis, FraaciR [jimrj^— Saddle and Mocassin* London, Chapman & Hall,
1887 ; 8vo., pp. xi. and 322. Price 12s,
Coim, WiUiam*— Cowboys and Colonels i Narrative of a Journey across the Plairi©
and over the Black Hills of Dakota, From * Dans les Montagues Rocbeuses' of
Baron E. de Mandat-Grancy, with additional notes not oontained in the original
edition. London, Griffith, Farran, i& Co., 1887: 8vo.,pp.xi,and 352. Price 10». 6rf.
[All presented by the Publishers,]
These books are all of the same stamp, and cover to some extent tho samo
region. The first tells the story of the author's adventures over the Western
States and in the Canadian West and North-W€st» mainly in search of work.
Ho gives a good idea of the life which such men have to lead in America, and
his bciok will be useful to those who contemplate following his example. There
is a small map of North America, showing the author's tracks.
The second volume is by the son of the la to Francis Francif«, the well-
known authority on angling. His frequent visits to America were chiefly for
sportj and mainly to the Yellowstone region and New Mexico, especially the
Animas Valley. Several chapters also deal with Northern Mexico* Mr. Fmncis
gives a graphic aooount of his adventures and of his life among tho hunters and
cowboys of the West At the- same time he describes with mucli clear neHH the
character of the various regions in which he travelled, though his book contains
no map, and there is a great lack of dates.
Like Mr. Francis's volume, Mr. Conn a adapted translation from Man da t-
Grancy's book ia spariuf^ in dates; indeed, we have not discoverod one, so fur aa
the year is concerned, though the day of the month is ostentatiously placed
here and there, diary fashion, at the bead of sections. From internal ovldeoco
the Baron's journey seema to have been made in 1882. Ho describes in very
readable fashion his experiences amon^ miners and ranchers, and gives a gootl
idea of that phase of Efe in the *' wild West '* which is rapidly passing away.
462
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS,
GENERAL,
Belooli, [Dr.] JuHes. — ^Die BevOlkeruDg der Griechiscb^Romiaclieii Welt. Leip-
zig, Duncber & Humblot, 1886; 8vo., pp. xvL and 520, Price lis, {Wtlliams
and Nor^ate.)
This is an atterapfc to estimate tlie population of tlie ancient Greek and
Boman world at different perio«is by a scientific investigation of the scanty and
uncertain material which has come down to ti8. The author points ont that
estimates have frequently l>een made of the populations of medireval citiea and
small areas in the ancient world, but the tas^ haa never before been undertaken
for great areas and extended periods. The author is aware that hia results can
only he approximative, and that oonsiderable modifications in the details might
reasonably be made by other inqnireri. His estimates as a whole, however, ho
thinks should be near the truth. In his first chapter tbe author deals with
sources of information — birth-regigteri!, mortality lists, certificates of citizenship,
military lists, censuses; methods of transmiltiug fltatifitics j military service;
estimates of areas ; production and consumption of grain ; discussion of modem
investigations. The second chapter deals with population according to sex and
age ; while succeeding chapters treat in detail of Attica, the Peloponne8u«, Central
and Norihem Greece^ the Hellenic East, Sicily and Greater Greece, the Boman
CenstiB, Italy, the Latin West, the Town Population. The last chapter traces
the history and progress of population in the ancient world, Dr, Beloch
appends two tables, giving the area and population of Greece B.C. 432, and of
the Roman World at the death of Angustua. The area of Greece lie estimates
at 40,360 square miles, and population at 3,051,OCX), of whom 1,005,000 were
fllavea and bondsmen ; this is in the proportion of 75 per square mile. The
density was higbeat in Central Greece, where it was over 160 per square mile;
in Attica Dr. Belooh makes the denaity to have been about 260 per square mile.
The total area of the Roman Empire at the death of Augustus he gives aa
1,289,440 square miles, and the population 54 millions, or a density of 42 per
square mile. Tbe area of Roman Europe at that date wag, according to Dr.
Beloch, 801,420 square miles, and the population 23,000,000, or about 26-7
per square mile, the greatest density being in Italy, where it was about 64 per
square mile. The area of Roman Asia was 256,960 square miles, and popula-
tion 19,500,000, or 76 per square mile, the greatest density being in Syria,
whflfe it was nearly 140 per square mile. The area of Roman Africa is given
as 171,060 square miles, and population 11,500,000, or a density of 67 per
square mile ; tbe area of Egypt being 10,850 square miles, and population
5 millioDR, or 450 per square mile, a little less than the average density of
England at the present day. Of course, aa Dn Beloch admits, these figures
must be taken as only roughly approximate,
[India.] — Report to the' Secretary of State for India in Council on the Records
of the India OGSce. By Frederic Charles Danvers. Yol L Part I. Records
relating to Agencies, Factories, and Settlements not now under the Administration
of the Government of India. London, printed by Eyre and Spottiswoode : 8vo.,
pp. 185) and xxxvii. [Presented by the Secretary of State for India,]
Thie is the first of what promises to be a valuable series of reiMjrts. So
far aa the early history and geography of the East are concerned, the preaent
instalment deals with Java, Sumatra, Borneo, the Straits Settlement, St.
Helena, and the Cape of Good Hope. There is also a section relating to
the French in India, and a list and location of places referred to in the
Report, with maps of Kalaisia, the Cape, St, Helena, and Mauritius, Among
the other valuable features of the volume are lists of books and publications
relating to the various regions dealt with, and classifications of the records
referring to them*
( «3 )
NEW MAPS.
(By J. CoLSSy Jfop OaraUft b^qj&S)
EUROPE.
Dentiehen Seiehei.— Kane des . SoJe 1 : 1400,000 or 1*3 geognp^hical
miles to an inch. Sheets : 152. XeQbnDdenbors:. 588. Bastatt. Heraoagepeben
vou der kartogr. ^Abdteilnng dcr KonigL Fkcuaa. Lsndea-Anfnahine 1S87.
PtioeU.6cf.eadL (Z>iaaaf.)
Deiltielllandl. — ^Uebenichtskarta der Eise&bahnen beaibeitet im Beid»-
Eiaenbahn-Amt. Scale 1 : IfiOOfiOO or 13*6 geozraphicil nuies to an inch.
Berlin, 4 sheets. Price 5s. (DWaii.)
DeutiehrFruizdlliehe GreilzLinder mit genaoer Einzekhnnng der franaosiachen
Befestignnzs-Anlagen. Scale 1 : 403,000 or 5*5 jzeographical miles to an inch.
YerkleineTte Auszabe der AIgermisaeo''£cbeQ Spezialkarte toq Elsaas-Lotiiringefi
(l:200,0O:»). Metz, 1SS7. Kartographische Terlagansta^t roa Geoi^ Lang.
Price Is. (kL {DuUiu.)
Pranee-— Carie-itiDeraiie dei Toies naTigablea de la , d'aptis le Guide officid
de la DarigatioQ intenecre. ParU, Bandiy et Cie. (Jhdam^
Cane de ^ draaee par le Senrice Tidiial par ordre de M. le M inistie de
rint^ear. Scale 1:100,000 or 1*3 geograi^iical miles to an indi. Pans,
HachetteetGe., 1887. SheeU: VI.— 13, Paimp..l; VL— IT, Plurizner; VL—
18, Tamies; TIL— 17, Roermel; XIIL— 27, Biantlime; XVI.— I, Ste. Sjnibe;
XVI.— 6, St. Omer; XVI.— 7, Su Pol; XVU.— 8, Doollcns; XVin.— 17,
Cbiteanrenard ; XVIU.— 18, St. Farseau ; XXIV.-36, Touloo, Price 7'i. each
sheet. [Dtdau.)
Ttmlia-— Cana d' , da Carlo Cerri. Milano, 1867. Scale 1 : eO4,000 or 11 -8
geographical miles to an inch. 8 sheets. Price 8s. (Dttlam,)
Leipzig.— Pl^zi von , vcn G. HetzeL Scale 1 : 7000 or 10*4 indies to a
geogjajjLical n-ile. Leipzig, Heinrichs. Price Is. (Z)ii/aif.)
Meeklemboiirg-Schweriii et Strelitz.— Carte du , par T. A. Halte-Bnm.
Paris, J. Eoufi. ct Cic. (Dulau.)
■ittel-Enropa^ — ^Topographische Spezial-karte ▼on , herausgegeben Ton der
kartograpLiscLe Abtbeilun? der k. prenss. Landesanfoahme. Scale 1 : 200,000
or 2' 7 geograi'Lical miles to an incb. Xo. 352, Boulogne. 380, St. Valefj-en-
Camp. 409, Bajenz. 411, Aumale. 441, Bonen. 532, Montarps. 562, Giec
Berlin, EiseLscLsiiit. Price It. each. (Dulau.)
Boftoek* Enrirons de , par V. A. Malte-Bmn. Paris, J. Eonfl. e: Ge. fDulam.)
BnMland. — General- end Strassenkarte von West and den angrmaeoden
Landem bU AVien end Butiafcst, mit beaooderer Beriicksichtijun^ der BaeD-
bahnen nnd mil Angabe ailer ruasischen Stationen. Bearbeitet von G. Freytaj;.
Scale 1 : Ij^O-'j/XO or 20*4 ;:ecf2Taphical miles to an incb. Eigenthnm u. Vcria^
von Artaria & Co. in W:en, 1687. Price 2». 6d. (Dulau.)
Busalailds.— Die ELsenlabnen (Jjca Cheraics de fer de la Rossie d'Earo^K.)
Scale 1 : 0,OC»:',000 or 82-2 geographical miles to an incb. Aisgabe vt.<i 1SS7.
Verlas von Artaria 4c Co. in Wien. Price Is. Sd. CDuiau.)
No. VIL— July 18&7.: 2 l
464
NEW MAPS.
ORDNANCE SUHVEY MAPS,
rubllcallotii Iseued during the moalb of Haj leaT.
l-lnch— ^GeiMTAl Maps :—
Ij^oljLKU anp Walk^ : New Series. Xoa. 90, H^ 338, 3ftl, 358 («titUnO> 1'- e*<^li'
Scotland: 126(tiUtUu4^), U. 9<i.
lRKLAxt>: 13& (bill*)* li.
e-inoll— County Map*:—
Kkolano axlj Walo: Berkshlfo ; 'J; 2f. ed. Breciknookebire r i&S.E,, 2i N,E., 17 S.W,
aos.W.; 1*. cftdi. CanLbridireshire : l H.E^ 4 S.fcl* ti K.K. ; u. ench. Cardifransliire:
4 N.H,, T N.W.i If. wicli. CarmartlieEitMr© : is 8.W.; U. Cornwall: && S.W,; n.
Deyonshire: 65 N,W., n& N.W., S,E.; it. <*eh. Dorsetshire: i*i S.W. juid s,K. mi muo
*hm; U. Herefordshire: 44 N>-; i*. LincolnBliire: U y.W.. 2t N,K.. SAW. 4e N>:.,
146 N.W,» N,E.; If, each. MerionetliaMie : H RH. Ti N^W.^ it, eadi. Monmouth-
shire: 3; 2s. Gd. Montromeryehire : lo SE., 39 N.E.; it. cAcb, Norfolk: <n S>-»
42 S.E., 6i S,E,, Ifl N.W., S.E.| It. each. Oxfordahire : 33, rontainSng Oxford, 2J. Ctt
Somersetshire: <9 S.E.. so aE,, $7 N.E, ; U. facb. StaffordaMre : 7l N.E.; it.
"Warwick Bhire; fl N*W., S.W^ S.E.J u, eiich. Wiltahire : li^i 2#. ftcf. Worcestor-
shlre: -* NX; i*.
g5-inoh— Paiifib Wipa:—
Emolakd A^*IJ Walls z Brecknockshire: XL. &. lO, 13. M, XLVJ. 6, 9, 3j. cAcb. Cftm-
bridg-eshire : XU. «» 4*.; LVJL 4. 3;t, ; LVfE r, 4*.; LVIt. w, LVllE 12, l&, LXL 9, 3f. rwib.
CftrmarthejiBhire : XXXI V. i, 4. 7, h. i i, u, XIJI. 8, oi. <?iich. Bevonehire : XXIX. :t,
3. 4, 7, 3*. PAcb ; XXIX. 12, 4j. ; XLI. 1. 2, CXIE 15. CXUI. 7. 10. CXVllL 3, 3s. eadi ; CX.W, lb,
6f.; CXXXV. a, 12, 3#. each. Gioucesterahire : Are* Books: Do«idmgton, Cbarllon Klng»^
Coberley, Groat Sburdln^j^U^D, LeclcbAmpton, lYeiftburi% LMcImrIoh, Up Hrttbcrley, If, eacb.
Herefordshire : Vlli: u, XII L 3. a. XIV. 11. 13. is. XVUh 16. le, XXL 16. af.trnch; XXH. I.
XX VH. 1, 4f. *^Acli; XW'IE 4, 7; XXVIU. a. 6, 7. XXXI V. fi, 13, 16, XXXV". 7» ?►, 3*. eacb,
IjeioesterBhire : XXXl. 4, 3f. LincolnBhire : V. 13. vr, is. le, XVIO. 9. XIX. i, 2» «. 7,
a, », U, 13, 14. 3*. **cl» ; XIX, 10, &f.; XX. IJ. Ifi, XXVIE 3» XXVIIl. 1. 3, 4, B, 7, 8« tP.Bjr.cAch j
XXVJII. 10,4*,; XXVIU. 12, 14. IMC, XXXVILQ, «. 14, 1&. 3f. eAck ; XUL ». fif.; XLV. 3, 4,
fi. i^. LIU. 4, 15. LXI. 1(«, 12, Kt. LXIL 4. 7. !*. 9, :u. each; LXJI. 10, 4f.; LXIE 13. 14, 16. 3f. CAcb ;
CLIE n, 7, **. «^li. Montiromerrs^i^e ; IV- 3, *, ^* n. 12. is, V, n» IX. 2, 3. 3f. fatih; JX*
12, XL 11, 4f. eAchj X11L3, t», 13, 3f. fAtht XIIL 14. 4f, ; XIV. 9, XV!, U. XXI. 1, 3f. eacb;
XXL 3. it.; XXL fi, 3j, ; XXIIL 12, U.x XXVIL 12, 15, XXXiV. 3. 7, 9, LI. 1(J»3*, cacIi. Area
Book: Cburch Stoke, 2«. 6d. Norfolk : l\ . H. 16, at. i^atb ; VII. T, if. ; ViL 16, 3f, j VI IL 2,
il.; VllL 7, ft, 10, 11» 15, le. 3Jt. fAcb ; 1X3. 4. 4f, ^Acb; IX. H, lU. 11, 13. 16, X. 3, 4 and & {on i»ne
Phi?et). 12, 16^ 3f. ejicb. Area IkKiky : Korlbwold, Sioke Eerry, Werebam, Wreltoii. Jf, CAch.
Northamptonshire: "L 2. 7, 4i. racIj ; XLV, i», n*. ad. Area Book: HartUnefton^, ii.
Nottinghamshire: VIE ^. as. Butland: IX.s,3f, Somera et shire : UiEia, 3f.i
LXIL JO. 6^.; LXXtTL I. 4f.; LXXT1L2, dt.. LXXUL 4.5. 4f. eacb; LXXIIL <&, a#. ; LXXQl. «»
H, 10, 41. eacb; LXXIIL 11. 12. a«. each; LXXIIL 14, 4*.; LXXIIL 16. 3f . ; LXXIfL 16. 4*.;
LXXV. a, 3, 4. 3*. eocb ; LXXV. 0, 4f. ; LXXV, 7. a, 10, 11, 13. 3i. tacb ; LXXV. 14, 4f, ; LXXV.
16, 3f,; LXXXUL 15, 4f.; LXXXIX. 1, 3f. Area Book: Su CaE,berlnp. U. Staffordahire :
LXIL 13. 3*. Suffolk i LXX. 7, 4J. Area Btwks: l-^rl istonbain. GorteiitOD, li. tacb. War-
Wlckahlre : XXXV. 5. XXXVIL 3, 3f. earh; XXXVU. 4, 4».; XXXVIL 3, 6, 7, 10, 12. 15. 16.
XXXVIIL L3»3f, eacb; XXX VIU. 5, 41.; XXXVIIL 7, 8, p, 10, 11. 12, 14. 15. XXXIX. 1. 4, Oi.
e«b; XXXLX, 6. 4* ; XXXIX. C, 7. L. U, 15. Xf. ^acU; LIIL 12. 4*. WOtBhire : XXXL 12. 3f. j
XXXIL 13, 4f.; XXXV. 16, XXXVL 10, 3f; eacb; XXXVIIL 4. 15, 4a. each; XLIV, 6. 3*.; XLIV.
8, 6*.; XLIV. 10, 14. 3f. tAch; XLV. 3, 4f. ; XLV. 11, XLVIL 2, », 12, 13, XLVUL 2. 6. LIE 2, 3,
4, 6, 7, H, 9, 13, 3f. cacb ; LIE. 14, if.; LiL 16, LIV. 3, 3f, eacb, Worcesterahlre : XLIV. U,
15,3f. eacb; LL 12, 4f.
Town Plan*— lo-f«*t ecale .•—
ENGLAND AND ViTALKa : \Vcit Bromwicfa, LXVIil. 14 j, fi i 2f.
{Stanford, AgertL}
AMERICA,
(Juayaquil (Ecuador).— Plaoo de - — , por Dr. Theodoro Wolf. 1887. Scale
1 : 4800 or 15 "2 inches to a geographical mile. Price 12*. {Ihdau,)
Niearagua-KanaleB* — Specialkarte des . Nach der Earte der Vem. Stti.
Vt^rniessonga- Expedition unter A. G. Menocal, u.s.k, 1885. Scale 1:G00,(XX) or
8 ' 1 geog raph ical m iles to an i ncti , W i th u Section . Petermann's * G eographiscl i o
Mitteilimgen/ Jahrgang 1887, Tafel 8. Goth a, Justus Perthes, 1887. (Dulau.)
Terre de feu.— Carte ethnograpliiqiie de Farchipel de la , Scab 1 : 3,000,000
or 41 ' 6 geographical milea to an inch. Parip, Gauthier-Villara* (Dulau,)
Vancouver Island* — Die Indianersliimme von , iin<i an der Kilate von
Britisch-Colnmhia. Nacli eigenen Forachungen gezeichnet von Dr, Franz Boas.
Scale 1 ; 2,000,000 or 27 geographical miles to au inch. Petermann's * Geogra-
pliificbe MitteilungeD,* Jahrgang 1887, Tafel 7. Gotha, Justus Perthes, 1887.
1
NEW HAPS. 465
CHARTS.
Admiralty. — Charts and Plans published by the Hydrographic Department,
Admiral ty, in March and April 1887.
Xo. Inches.
240 m = 14*0 England, south coast, Plymouth: — Hamoaze.
2.9. Od.
954 m = 6*8 Ireland, west coast :—Achill sound, northern and
southern entrances. Is. Gd,
2206 m = 2-89 Black sea :— Odessa bay. 28, ed.
162 m = 2 '27 Black sea: — Novorossisk bay (Soujak). Iff.
603 m - 0*78 Black sea:— Cape Fontana to Tendra Peninsula,
including Odessa and entrance to Kherson bay.
2ff. Gd,
964 m = 1*73 Black sea :— Cape Loukoul to Balaklava bay, includ-
ing Sevastopol harbour. 2ff. Qd.
608 m = 0*8 Africa, west coast : — River Gambia entrance. 2s,
2126 m = 3'1 New Guinea, south coast :— Port Moresby. Is. Gd,
968 m 1= 2*9 South Pacific, Uea or Wallis islands: — Mua and
Mata Utui anchorages. Is, Gd.
2221 Plans of ports in Black sea : — New plan, Ghelendjik.
207 Albemarle sound to Cape Fear : — Plans added, Hatteras inlet, Ocracoke
inlet.
1328 Anchorages in Chonos archipelago : — New plan. Port Lagunas.
1810 River Zambesi to Mozambique harbour : — Plan added, Infusse bar (river
Muite).
50 Diu head to (Joapnath point ; — ^Plan added, Mandwa bay.
2576 Sulu archipelago : — Plan added, northern entrance of the channel between
Lapac and Siassi islands.
2578 Sulu sea, eastern part : — ^plan added, Cuyo Island anchorage.
970 Anchorages in Philippine islands : — ^New plan, San Jacinto.
2432 TTumen Ula to Strelok bay :— New plan. Expedition and Novgorod bays.
2532 Ninety miles beach to Otago : — Plan added, Oamaru harbour.
2169 Midway island : — Plans added. Pearl or Hermes reef. Ocean island.
(J. D. Potter^ Agent)
CHABTS CANCELLED.
No. Cancelled by Ko.
2206 Odessa Bay New plan, Odessa bay 2206
2221 Plan of Soujak bay on this sheet New plan, Novorossisk bay .. 162
228 BellHik river to cape Khersonese / ^V", P^*^ ^P* ^"^"'^^ **» ^*^' „,,
\ klavabay 964
2862 Ocracoke inlet Hattenu. inlet { ^"^ ^' Ocracoke inlet. Hatte- '
^ ra8mlet,on 267
008 River Gambia, Sheet 1 .. .. New plan, Kiver Gambia entrance 608
212C Port Moresby and Fairfax I New plan. Port Moresby .. .. 2126
harbour )
noPT -ni r All. 1- xf 1 * i Now plan, Mua and Mata Utui
987 Plan of Allier bay on this sheet < 5 o^o
•^ ( anchorages 968
529 Plan of Pemambuco on this chart.
CHARTS THAT HAVE RECEIVED IMPORTANT CORREOTIONa
No. 1828. England, east coast :— The Downs. 2256. Baltic, Gulf of Riga:— Dvina
river, from the roadstead to the town of Riga. 1238. South Atlantic Ocean :—
South Shetland and South Orkney islands. 903. North America, cast coast : —
46G
NEW MAPS.
Gotildsborough \nj to Little Spoon island. 2893, Gulf of Mexico ;— Cedar cays
and approaches. 1008. Gulf of Mcxic-o i — Lower Matacumbe cay to Boca Graodc
cay. 2145. Central America, west cc:ist :— Gulf of Nicoya to cape Elena. 2146,
Central America, west coast : — Cape Eleua to cape Desolado. 599. Africa, west
coast : — Cape Verde to cape Roxo, 643. Africa, south coast : — ^Port Xatal. 21Ga.
Bay of Bengal, Memui arcliipelago : — Iron island to Sayer island. 2577, PbiUp-
pine islands :^St. Bernardino strait and adjacent islands. 1962. Cliiaap south
coast : — Houg Kong to Clielani* point. 1963. China, south coast : — Chelan g point
toChauanbay. G5-1. Japan i — Bungo channel, 2759a, Australia, northern portion.
1063, Australia, sontb coast :— WestLrn approach to BaM strait, 1695b. Australia,
south coast : — Baas strsiit, ivt^stem part. 27G3. Australia, north-east ; — Coral sea
and Great Barrier reefs, sheet h 2764, Australia, north-east coast :^— Coral sea
and Great Barrier reefs, sheet 2, 2350, Australia, north-east coast : — Double point
to cape Tribulation. 2614, New Zeaknd^ North iislaad : — Klapara harbour,
(J. D, Potter, AgenL)
TTnited States Charts.— No, 1027. Juauilk Bay, West Coa^t of Costa Rica,
Central America. 1887. Price Is, 3rf.— 1036. El Kincon Harbor (Gulf of Duloe)
west coast of Costa Rica. Price Is, 3d— Pilot Chart of the North Atlantic Ocean.
May and Jane 14387, Published at the Hydrographic Office, Navy Department,
Washington, D.G. J, R, Bartlett, Commander U.8.N., Ilydrographer to the
Bureau of Navigation.
ATLASES.
Bartholomew, J.-^Pockct Atlas of England and Wales, by J, Bartholomew, f.b.q.s.
With Inilex and Geographical Statistical Notes,
Pocket Atlas of Scotland, by J. Bartholomew^ F.n.G.8. With iDdcx and
Geographical Statistical Notes, London, John Walker & Co,, 1887. Price
Is, each.
These arc two very handy little atlases; tho nm]«, which are the work of
Mr. Barthokimew, are drawn on various scales, the districts most visited by
tourists and the environs of towns beinj; drawn on a mucli larger scale than
those which are less frequented. Each contains an index, constructed,
however, on different plans, that for England and Wales givinj: the
latitude and longitude of each 'f'hice, while in that of Scotland the scheme
followed of indicating positions by letters is identical with that adopted in
Johnston's Royal Atlas. The geographical and statistical notes which cacli of
thes« little atlases contains apj)«ar to have been compiled with care from the
best sources,
Belgiliue. — ^Atlas des villes de la — *, au XVI^ Siecle, Cent jilans dii gdogra]^hc
Jacques de Be venter, exiksnt^ sur lea ordres de Charles Quint etde Philipixs IL,
reproduits en fac-simil6 chromogrnphique ^mr rinslitut national de gdographie.
* Bruxelles, Livs, 1 to 6, Price 3/, {Dnlau.)
Fhtlip, G., & Son. — Handy-volume Atlas of the World. A scries of C4 plates,
containing 110 maps and plans* With complete Index and Statistical Notes. By
J. Franoon WilUams, f.e.g.s. George Philip & Son, Liverpool and London,
1887.
This atlas is so small in size that the maps of necessity contain bnfc few
names of places; such, however, as have been given are well chikscn, and all the
principal physical features, t-ogether with the political boundaries, are as correctly
laid down as the scale of the maps permits ; it also contains a large amount of
statistical information, and as it is furnished with a copiuus index, is likely to
be useful as a gazetteer to those who do not possess larger attd more detailed
works of the same sort.
5
t
ti
h
a
IS
PROCEEDINGS
OP THB
ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
AND MONTHLY RECORD OF GEOGRAPHY.
On the Society 8 Expedition to the NarrnUi Hills, East Africa.
By J. T. Last, Commander of the Expedition.
(Read at the Evening Meeting, Jane 27th, 1887.)
I HAVE the hononr to lay before yon this evening an acconnt of some
of the chief points of interest connected with the expedition into South-
east Africa, which the Society entrusted to my charge, reserving my
fall report, with scientific details and map, for a future occasion. The
principal objects of the expedition were to fix the position of the oonfluenoe
of the rivers Lugenda and Buvuma, and to study their resources for the
advancement of commercial enterprise. Thence I was to proceed to and
examine the mountainous districts in the vicinity of the Namuli Peaks
(the remarkable hills brought to our notice by Consul O'Neill, and said to
be snow-capped), fix the chief points of interest, and report upon the
country, after which the river Lukugu was to be traced from its source
to the coast in order to learn how far it could be used in the interests of
civilisation and commerce.
On the 2nd of September, 1885, 1 embarked on board the P. & O.
steamship Ancona for Aden, continuing thence by the British India
Steam Navigation ship Abyssinia for Zanzibar. On arriving at Zanzibar
I found the ready help and kindness of Sir John Kirk most useful.
Through him I was able to make up my caravan very quickly, and he
also obtained for me, from the Sultan of Zanzibar, letters to the chiefs
on the coast and inland, which I found very useful.
Having finished my preparations in Zanzibar, I hired a native
dhow, embarked vdth my men and goods, and after fifteen days' sailing
amongst the beautiful coral islands off the East African coast, arrived at
Lindi on the 22nd October, whence, after making my final preparations,
I started inland on the 28th October. Our first object was to reach
Ngomano, the district lying about the confluence of the Lugenda with
the Ruvuma. The best road to this place was by way of Newala, a
station of the Universities' Mission. On arrival at this place I was
No. VIII.— Aug. 1887.] 2 m
468
ON THE SOCIETY'S EXPEDITION TO THE
most kindly and haspitaHy welcomed by the Eqf. Cliauncy Maples,
Bishop Smjthies, and other members of the Mission, After staying two
days at this place, we retjumed our joiimej, and on the second day
reached the left bank of the Rnvnma. Wo then ascended by its left bank
to within 15 miles of its confluence, croBsed oTer to the right bank, and
reached Ngoinano at the junction of the rivers on the 15th November.
We fttayed here six days, making observations to fix the position of
this important point, the resulta of which give long. 38"^ 01' 55'' E.
andlat 11^ 25' 25" S.
All the country along tho Ruvuma, from near Kewala to Kgomano,
was formerly well populated, as the aites of the old villages show, but
now there is not a house to be seen, the district having been overrun by
the Makwangwara and other marauding tribes, and is now become the
home of a great variety of game* One night when camped on the left
bank of the Ruvuma, a pair of lions made an attack on one of the grass
huts in which our people were sleeping, and carried off a man. The men
shouting and firing their gunscaneed iho lion to drop his pre^^ who was
afterwards broaght into camp. The poor fellow was very ranch braised
and clawed about the neck and shonldere. After I dressed his wonnds,
I had to leave him on one of tho islands inhabited by the Matjimbwi
people. To these I gave a present of cloth on the consideration that they
should take eare of the man till his recovery. This they promised to do,
and I afterwards learnt that be fully recovered. There are several
small islands in the Ruvuma inhabited by the Matambwi, These are
only occupied during tho dry season ; in the rains they are covered by
the waters of the Ruvuma, and the people go and live in temporary
villages on the right bank.
From Ngoraano we proceeded up the valley of the Lugenda» crossing
from «ide to side, by fords or by canoes, as the windings of the river
and road compelled us, until we reached the three lakes, Amaramba,
Chintttj and Shirwa. We passed along tho eastern shores of these, and
then crossed over the open forest by way of Kiladzulu HiU to Blantj^e,
which we reached on January 13th» 1886, Whilst in the neighbourhood
of the lakes I had an attack of dysentery and fever, which compelled
mo to be carried the last five or six days of ray journey. On reaching
Blantyre I was received with the most kindly welcome by Consul Hawes,
wlio pot himself to no inconsiderable trouble to make me as comfortable
as possil)le.
The journey up the valley of the Lngenda was, with the exception
of a break here and there, through a long »tring of gardens. Some
parts of the country are very fertile, and would grow European vegetables
well, whilst there is but little that is not well adapted for growing native
grain. The common cereals of tho country are maize, millet, and beans,
besides which, ground-nuts, ptitatoe», pumpkins, and other vegetables
are grown, also a little rice in places. The inhabitants are chiefly
NAMULI HILLS, EAST AFRICA. 469
Yaos, whose principal chiefs are Mtarika, Nyangwali, Kandnlu, Msuza,
and ChipilL All the minor chiefs are more or less subject to these.
The coast Mahommedans have been for many years passing up and down
this valley, but their influence seems to have little power to induce the
natives either to embrace •Mahommedanism or to give up some of their
most heathenish practices. Cannibalism is but little practised by the
Yaos, still there are some of the great chiefs, as Mtarika and Nyangwali,
who indulge in such orgies. I have been frequently told by Yao men,
who are well acquainted with the habits of the chiefs, that feasts of
human flesh are frequently made in secret by the chiefs, and partaken
of by them. Mtarika has been known to make feasts of this kind, and
then to invite Mahommedans and other strangers to partake of it, telling
them that it is goat's flesh, of which the coast people are very fond.
The savage practice of burying living persons with the dead is in
more or less common practice with some tribes of the Yao family. As
for instance, when I was at Nyang wall's town, the chief would not
allow me to proceed, because they were busy performing the rites of
burial to a sub-chief who had died the previous day. I asked permission
to be allowed to be present at the burial, but was refused. My men,
however, went to fire their guns at the grave, as a mark of respect to the
dead, and being coast men they were allowed to stay. On their return,
they told me that two girls and a young man had been buried alive with
the body. There is a custom that should one of the poor unfortunates,
who is about to be buried alive, happen to sneeze, the sneezing is taken
as a sign that the dead man does not wish that person to be buried with
him. He or she is therefore released and sent back to the village. The
burial place is generally away from the village, and often alongside the
main road.
The river Lugenda varies considerably in width : at its confluence
with the Kuvuma it is about a mile wide, and at the point where it
receives its waters from the lake Amaramba it is some 80 yards. But
tliis is full of water only during the wet season. At other times the
river is fordable at many places. Islands, beautifully wooded, are
scattered all the way up the river, some of which are three or four miles
in length. They are not submerged during the wet season, and there-
fore they form the permanent homes of the people. Some of these
islands are very beautiful, covered with large forest trees, whose branches
are hung everywhere with garlands and festoons of graceful creeping
plants. Under the trees are to be seen little clusters of rather small
huts enclosed by reed fences. Each of these clustei*s is a household
group. The children are playing about on all sides, and every hero and
there are seen groups of frisking kids with their dams. It appears a bright
and peaceful scene, and yet what misery and suffering is often there!
what uncertainty of life and liberty I
Through the kindness of Consul Hawes and Dr. Milne, of the Blan-
2 M 2
470
ON THE S0C1ETY*S EXPEDITIOiN TO THE
tyre Mission, I quickly recovered from my fever, and intended ta
proceed on my journey, but tte wet season set in so very heavily, that
it was next to imposBibltj for a caravan to travel over the boggy
conntr}'^. I therofore accepted the invitation Consal Hawes had ao
generonsly offered me, to stay with him until the wet eeaaon was over.
Dnrinj^ this time, as weather permitted, we made several excnrsione to
the principal hills and villages in the neighbourhood. We also paid a
visit to the Makololo people on the lower Shire, and made a more ex-
tended journey to the Angoni people in the country to the south-west of
Lake Nyaaaa, an account of ivhich is given in the March number of the
* Proceedings ' of thie year.
On July 12tb» I left Blantyre, and proceeded by an almost easterly
course, to the block of hills from which the NamuH Peaks arise, which
we reached on August 3rd. The soil of the oimutry passed through is
in moat parts fairly good, and many places are so fertile that green corn
can be grown all the year round* The people of this line of country are
Taos and Makuas, the former of whom live near to Blantyre, The Matiia
country is entered after i>assing the northern spur of the Milanji group
of liills. Of these Makuas there are three sub-tribes in the country
crossed, namely, the Alolo, the Mahivanij and the Lomwe. These are
all very similar in customs, language, and dress. In language there
seem to be but a few dialectic differences, and in dress they copy each
other by all trying to wear as little as possible. Tbe most distin-
guishing mark is in their head-dress arrangement. The Alolo simply
allow their hair to grow, and shave it off when it becomes troublesome ;
the aim of the Mahivani is to excel in arranging their natural hair into
the most fantastical head-dresses ; while the Lomwe exercise their skill
in making very curious artificial head-dresses, but seldom work up their
own hair, I had no particular difficulty in making my way through
the country, though the natives all looked upon us with the greatest
suspicion, for they could not understand a stranger passing through
their countr}' and not buying anything except the food wanted for the
caravan.
On arrival at the Namuli district, I was well received by the princi-
pal chief. Ana Guruwe, and arranged with him to make his village my
head-i|uarters duriug my stay in the district. This was done by an
exchange of presents, and then the chief conducted mo to a rjuarter of
his village J where he gave me houses for the use of my men, and an open
space on which to set up my tent. I remained in the district for about
three months, during which time I made several excureions up the hills
and into the country on all sides, iaking observations and collecting
general information. Ana Gum we' s village is built at the foot of the
south side of the bhick of hills on which the Kamult Peaks stand. It is
situated in long. ^7" 02' 20" E. and lat^ 15=* 27' 30" S., and is nearly
2000 feet above sea-level. There ie no name in use amongst the natives
NAMUU HILLS, EAST AFRICA. 471
to denote the entire block of hills, but each spur, cliff, prominent part,
or peak has its own distinctive name. On the south side of the
mountain several low spurs strike out, and then it rises very abruptly to
an altitude of 2500 feet above the plain. The whole side is covered
with the densest vegetation, in which large trees, indiarubber and
other vines, tree-ferns, palms, bamboos, and a great variety of shrubs
and bushes, all combine to add beauty to the scene. The ground,
wherever it is not covered with bushes and creepers, is thickly carpeted
with ferns, flowering plants, and grasses. In some places deep gorges
have been cut away by the ever-rushing torrent, and small streams come
skipping and sprinkling down on all sides. In one place there is a
beautiful double waterfall of some 500 feet over the clean rock, and on
each side of it large beds of gently waving maidenhair ferns. The
mountain sides can be scaled in several places, but the way generally
used is up the bed of a rough rocky watercourse. In summer it is drj',
but in the wet season the tumbling torrent makes a series of most
beautiful cascades and waterfalls. On reaching the top of the mountain
mass, one sees a large extent of deeply undulating country, gentle valleys,
mountain ridges gradually rising and culminating in abrupt peaks, very
deep gorges caused by some enormous force and the continual flowing
of the larger streams. In other places may be seen a large and almost
level boggy flat, having all the appearance of a dried-up lake. One of
these is about a mile across, and contains the head-waters of the river
Lukugu. There is just sufficient soil and grass bound together on it
to make it safe walking, though many parts are very shaky when
walking on it. A large stream is always issuing from under this boggy
flat, into a deep gorge, down which the Lukugu flows. Nature seems to
have especially exerted herself in tho formation of this mountain mass.
On all sides high conical peaks may be seen raising their heads from
1000 to 3000 feet high, above the common level of the mountain mass.
Look a little away and you see gently rising ridges with one on both
sides forming fearful precipices, from one to two thousand feet deep.
Along the depths of these gorges and precipices the rivers may bo seen,
like so many silvery lines, wending their way to the green valleys
beyond.
The principal feature of this mountain district is the double-crested
Namuli Peak. This stands at the extreme end of a ridge which gently
rises and extends towards the north from the southern edge of the
mountain mass. On the west side of this ridge is a very deep gorge, from
the depths of which Namuli rears up its head quite 6000 feet. From the
north, east, and south sides of Namuli, at a distance of 2500 feet from its
summit, extensive spurs extend. The remaining part of the peak is an
almost perpendicular mass of white stone ; all the surface of the upper
part of the peak is guttered with innumerable small watercourses, which
shows the effect of the elements during the ages it has raised its head on
472
ON THE SOCIETY'S EXPEDITION TO THE
high. The top of the peak has a slight indent running across It from
east to west, which makes it appear to be double crested, one of which is
a little highor than the other. In this indent a small group of treea is
visible, from whieh flows continnally a small stream of water down the
east side of the peak, Tbe position of Namuli is long. 37** 01' 15" E,,
and lat 15^ 20' 12" S. Its height is 8000 feet
There are a nnraber of peaks near to Namuli, each having its dis-
tinctive name, of these Pilani and Pesani are the chief. Pilani is nearest
to Namuli, and is within 300 feet of being as high. The two principal
peaks within a few miles ot Namuli, are Mruli to the west, and Mresi to
the east. All these peaks are more or less cone-shaped and have streams
coming down from near the top. It was impossible to ascend Namuli,
the sides are so ateep and smooth, but most of the others liave rougher
watercourses, by which I was able to asoeodj and secure altitudes and
observations.
If the mountain he considered as a whole, its south side is the liighest,
and the whole mass gradually drops towards the north. The only river
of importance on the mountain which flows to the south is the Lukugo.
To the north flow three comparativt-ly large rivers, the Malema, the
Ludi, and the Lusi, The Malema rises from the east side of the ridge
which extends between Namuli Peak and the south urn edge of the moun-
tain mass. Streatus are to bo seen rushing down from all parts of the
sides of the riJge, into the elevated mountain valley, forming most
beautiful waterfalls and cascades. Thence it flows and receives streams,
large and small, from all sides, till it enters the valley to the north, and
then flows on to the Lull with which it joins. The scenery in the
mountain valley of the Malema is very beautiful, and in great variety.
Here you may see a largo plot of soft green grass, as smooth as a lawn ;
there there is a bed of aloes in full flower; a little further on Is seen a
belt of tall trees, covered with creeping plants and parasites, orchids,
and ferns in great variety. Underneath there is the clear sparkling
brook, gaily rushing along to add its quota to the main fctream, Natoro
here seems to have used all her power to make the place a lovely spot, a
feast for human eyes.
The Ludi and Lusi rivers rise in the hilb near to and on the west
side of Namuli ; they move on amongst the hills by diflerent paths, till
they reach the valley, where they join their waters, and then flow on
into the Luli.
The sources of the river Lnkngn are in a boggy lake-like hollow,
fdmost surrounded by hills and peaks. On the east side of this basin
the peak Pilani raises it^ head, and is separated from Namuli by a valley
almost 5000 feet deep. The waters of the Lukugu, issuing from the
bog, rush down into a deep gorge, which is thickly wooded on one side,
and the other is a bare precipitous rock. On it ruwheij, tumbling over a
huge mass of rock, and then dashing over and among the boulders and
KAMITU HILLS, EAST AFRICA,
473
loukSf until it approaohes the YiUag^eB of Ana Moolie. It passes here
with a more quiet, but still rough der^cont, and dancea aloDg Tintil it
passes between the Cbali and 31a!isani Hilk, and thenoo Sows into the
valley on the south jside of the mountain. On ita way amongst the hills
it receives the waters of several email strc^ams, and one larger tban itself
which rushes down Cbali HilL This stream, the Volo» is one of the
most beautiful pieces of scenery on the whole mountain. The sides of
the gorge through which it passes are clothed with thick forests which
overhang the river and form a complete canopy* Tree-ferns and palms
are abundant, and the ground is covered with quite a carpet of ferns
and other plants in great variety. Here there is an open flat of quiet
water, a little further on the sparkling river dashes along wet rocks
and boulders, giving fresh life and vigour to the whole scene.
There are but a few villages on the mountain now, btit formerly it
was well populated ; this is shown by the partly cleared spots, and
scattered groups of banana trees, whicjli indie; ite the position of former
villages* The natives still living on the mountain aro at the groatesh
varianoe with each other, continually fighting and carrying off each
other to sell as slaves^ so that I fonnd it impossible to induce natives
living on the east side of Kamuli to accompany me to the west, Every-
where the soil is of the greatest fertility, so that rice and native grains
can be raised in large quantities. All kinda of European vegetables
would grow well, and in all probability wheat and other Ei^ropean cereals
wonld succeed. Among the hills, on the banks of the Lukugu, are tho
scattered hamlets of part of a small tribe of Makuas, called Maua, who
are cannibals* They keep themselves quite separate from tho other
Makuas, seldom being seen at any diatanco from their gardens or villages.
Whilst tracing the Lukugu to its source, we had to pass through tbeir
district, and, on arrival at the villagCB, we found all the people engaged at
a drinking boot, in a village on the opposite side of the stream. As we
went along the people came out with a great noise, and the chief sang
out that he wanted my helmet to wear, and my skull to use as a drinking
cup. I did not agree with him on tbat subject, so we kept marching
steadily on till we reached a piece of rising ground beyond the villages,
where we made a halt*
I then sent a guide back to the chief with a small present, and to
ask him to come and see me after 1 had returned to Ana Guruwe's
village. The natives seemed to be rather taken aback by the ajipear-
anco of our arms» and our steadily marching forward* A few dayw after
my return to Ouj uwe's a headman from Ana Mocb©*s village arrived,
saying that he had been sent by that chief to feoo me. After salutations,
he said that the people of the village had intended to attack ue, bat our
guns frightened them. I then asked him about their man-eating pro-
pensities, and he told mo that it was true that they did sometimes eat
alaves and the bodies of those killed in war. A common practice was
474
W THE SOCIETY'S EXPEDITION TO THE
that wLen it bad been privately determined to kill a certain person, a
public bcer-drioking would be convened^ and the intended victim in-
vited to the lestival. As soon as he was fairly intoxicated, the men
told off for the pnrpose would seize and carry him off to the bush and
spear him ; then a feast would be got up, of which all would partake.
Ana Gumwe had previously told me how that some of his own people
and friends had been carried off by these people, mntilated by them, and
then devonred. Guru wo also told me that these cannibals even eat their
own dead.
During the three months I lived about Namuli the average mean
temperature was 75^ Fahr* The general maximum reading was about
Oo^ and minimum 55*^- On the mounfcain my men were much affected by
the cold, the minimum thermometer being frequently at freezing point,
and on August 25th, at our camp at the foot of Peseni, at 4 a.m. the
thermometer was at 26^, and a thin sheet of ice was formed on a pail of
water which had been loft outside all night. As the month of September
is the beginning of the hot season, it seems highly probable that very
strong frosts may be experienced ou the mountain during the cold season.
It will be understood by reference to the height of Namuli, that it cannot
be snow-clad, nor could I get any information from the natives to show
that they were acquainted with snow, though they are frequently
visited with hailstorms. Strong whirlwinds are very frequent on the
mountains, rushing along with great noise and force. The natives call
it tnyujmrw, which word is also used to denote a bad spirit.
After completing my obser^'^ations in the Namuli district, I gave a
parting present to Ana Guru we, who had, on the whole, been very kind
to mo, and commenced my journey along the river Lukngu to the
coast. On the 23rd October wo left Guruwe's village, and reached
QuHlimane on 16th November following.
Wo struck the Lukugu near the ford at the village of Ana Wahiwa.
Here we were received by the chief and by him conducted over to the
nght bank, where wo camped for the night. The Lukugu here is
abont 80 yards wide, and full of rocks. The banks are some 20 feet
deep, and there was then an average depth of one foot of water. In
the rains, the river overflows its banks, and becomes impassable.
On the second day after leaving this place, we crossed the Uluu
river, called Lnkotokwa on O^Neiirs map. I could not find any one who
knew this latter name, but all 8pokc of it as Uluu. It h nearly as wide
as the Lukugu, and had more water where I crossed it. Its sources are
in the hills around Kamusula's, and it receives all the water from the
hills Katuni, Zaje, Mrupa, and others.
Just below where the Uluu ent<5rs the Lukugu on the right bank,
the^Mtetele enters it on the left bank. This is about thirly yards wide.
Thence we went on to the junction of the Lumanana, or Luu, as it is
called by the natives, which we reached on October 28th, After
NAMULI HILLS, EAST AFRICA. 475
receiving the Ulan, or Lukotokwa, and numerous small streams on
either side, the Lukugu widens out, and several large islands are
formed in its course. These are inhabited by the natives only in times
of danger. They are generally well wooded, and are sufficiently large,
with good soil, to be suitable as a permanent residence. This part of
the country is very thickly inhabited, the people being of the same tribe
as those living near Namuli.
In passing through the villages, great numbers of men, women,
and children, escorted the caravan for miles, hoping to get if only the
smallest piece of cloth or a few beads. It was well for my men, as a
native would carry a load all the morning for a piece of calico a quarter
of a yard wide. Further on, we came to a place where there were some
hippopotami; I quite delighted the natives by shooting two, thus
giving them the means of having a good feast. This kind of thing I
was able to do several times, and so secured the friendship of the chiefs,
who all wanted me to shoot some hippos for them. Generally, the
soil of the country on both banks of the river is very good, but as almost
everywhere else, the natives only grow for their own wants.
After crossing the Lumanana or Luu river, which is some 200 yards
wide, we entered an almost depopulated country. Excepting a large
village recently built just at the crossing of the Lumanana, there are only
a^ few scattered villages, till the Portuguese plantations and trading
stations are reached. The sites of deserted villages on both banks of the
river show how thickly the country was formerly, and even till lately,
inhabited. The land is good in most places, and would produce almost
any amount of corn, if well cultivated. On November 5th we crossed
the Lugera, another large affluent of the Lukugu, which rises on the
eabt side of Milanji Hills. This is a river as large as the Lumanana, but
is useless for commercial purposes on account of the rapids all up the
river. On the 13th November we reached the coast at the mouth of the
Lukugu, having thus followed it from its source to its outlet. The
Lukugu is quite useless for commercial purposes, it being a series of
rapids along nearly all its course. A few canoes are met with on the
river, but they are chiefly used for crfjssing, and making small journeys
from village to village, wherever it is possible to pass between the rocks.
There is plenty of land between the coast and the mountain ranges of
which the Namuli district forms a part, which is undoubtedly suitable
for growing coffee, perhaps tea and cocoa: cotton in many places is
grown by the natives, and tobacco everywhere. The two great
hindrances to successful planting are want of labour, and an easy means
of transport of goods to and from the coast.
From the village of Maroda, which is near the coast at the mouth of
the Lukugu, we went across the country to Quillimane. Here I rested
for about three weeks, and then commenced my return journey, leaving
Quillimane on Saturday, December 11 th. The road we followed led about
476
ON Tll£ SOCIETY'S EXPEDITION TO THE
halfway between the usnal road to Bl an tyre and the road I bad followed
down the Lukugo. On the 14th January, 1887» I ai^ain n ficbcd Blantyre.
In the limited time allotted to me fur this prelimiiiary aeeomit of my
expedition 6 it is impossible to give the parti culars of this journey and
they mnst be deferred to a future occasion. The people through whoeo
t'oimtry we passed were a tribe of Makiias called Atakwani. They are
in moht reBpects very like the Mahivani tribe of Makua, and are perhaps
more closely allied to them than to any other tribe. The country i« in
many places good and fertile, especially alongside the frequent streams-
There is but little difficulty in travelling thiongh the country. The
natires, as soon ea they see that the traveller is amicably disposed, receive
him kindly, and at a fair rate will provide him with whatever ho may
need. Of course, all are not disposed alike, but invariably I have been
able to overcome all onr difficulties without having recourse to arras.
At Blantyre I was very kindly received by Mr, Moir, the Manager
of the African Lakes Company. Here I stayed till the 28th of Januar}%
and then started on my final journey to the coast, intending to come
out at Ibo, Leaving Blantyre I went to Zomba, at w^hich place
Mr. Hawes has lately establishod the Consulate. After a few days*
stay with the Consul I resumed my journey, going round the sooth end
of Lake Shirwa, and ascending its east side, thence to Chinta and
Amaramba Lakes. On leaving Che Chikw^eo's at the south-east end
of Amaramba, we were told that we should have three tlays of furest to
pass, and then we should come across a road leading to the Medo
country. So the men bought food for that time, and we went on onr
jonraey. On we went for three days, four days, and there was no sight
of villages. Still we went on, and the men finished their food, and mine
was finished too. Fortunately there was plenty of muBhrooms aU over
the country ; these, with some roots and flowers of a certain kind of
bean, had to satisfy our wants for three days, at which time we came to
a small bill having a village on the weat side. As we were on the east
side we camped, and the men went ofi* for food. As soon as we got food,
the troubles of the road were forgotten, and w© went on to the villages
under the chiefs Mpwina and Che Cbikweo. Hez© we stayed for a day
or twoj and then began our journey to Ibo, which lies almost direct east,
Che Cbikweo gave me two men to act as guides as far as the Luleko river,
and then they were to return. Here again we ware attacked by hunger,
with much more serious results. Oh© Chikwoo told us that 'wo should
reach the Medo villages in five or six days, so wo took food for eight.
After we bad crossed the river Lnleko, wo found ourselves in a pathless
forest, and had to putjh our way as best we could through the tangled
hushes and tall grass. "We went on this way for six days, and the men's
food was finished ; again they had to take to eating whatever they could
find in the forest. I had to make use of the same <Het, with the excep-
tion of baling a few beans, which I used with the mushitKjms ; coffee
NAMOU HILLS, EAST AFRICA. 477
I always had. So we went on for three days further, and the men be-
came so weak that they could not carry the loads. We had a consulta-
tion over our affairs, and it was decided that we would go on to a hill in
the distance, climb it, and see if' there were any villages or cultivated
gardens in sight, and if so to send on some men to get food ; if not, we
would hide the things on the hill and go on all together till we either fell
or reached a village. The hill was ascended, and nothing could be seen
but the whole country covered with thick forest, and every here and
there cone-like hills cropping up. The things were hid, as I had hoped
safely, and we resumed our journey.
At 4 o'clock on the third day we were rejoiced by seeing the green
fields of com belonging to a village hid in the forest. The sight of this
gave us now vigour, and we were not long before we had reached the
village and were satisfying our hunger. The next duty was to go back
for the things, for I had only brought what was really necessary in
instruments, with my books and papers. I sent the men off the next day.
They would not hear of my going with them, and as soon as they reached
the place they found some one had discovered our things and carried
off everything excepting my tent, and the empty tin boxes. The instru-
ments I had left behind were all smashed up ; these included all my own
and several belonging to the Society. Besides these I lost my clothes,
the cloth which I wanted for the journey, and nearly all my natural
history collections. They only left me the empty tin boxes and my
tent, which they could not carry off, the men being probably few
in number. It was impossible to say who had carried off the
goods. It might have been a party of hunters who came across our
track and followed us, or it might have been people of the village where
we had arrived. They behaved very well to us whilst we were there,
but it is not easy to say whether their kindness was the result of a
naturally good disposition, or used as a cloak to hide their theft.
We were now reduced to great straits, not having either cloth or
other articles to make use of, and we were still some fifteen days from the
coast. Fortunately I had given the men four yards of cloth each, just
before we left the things in the forest, and this served us till we reached
the district of a great chief, named Mweli. To him we stated our case,
and he very kindly took us in hand, supplied our wants, and after
keeping us for eight days in his village, gave us all we needed to take
us to the coast, and al^o four men as guides to take us to Ibo. For this
kindness I had to send Mweli some things from Ibo, by the men he had
sent with me. The whole of the country crossed, from Che Chikweo to
the coast, has been thickly populated ; the ground is the best I have
seen, and was formerly well cultivated. The people who lived here
were chiefly Lomwe Makua. They were surrounded on all sides by
marauding tribes who completely drove them out, and made them take
to the mountains in the south. !Now the land, except the strip inhabited
478 THE SOCIETY'S EXPEDITION TO THE KAMULI HILLS.^DISCtJSSION.
by tbe Medo Makua, is a dense foxeet, tbo home of tho elopliant and
boffalo. Tho Portuguese look upon all tlik valuable country ae tbeirs,
and profess to have lately made treaties with Mweli and Mtarlka (whom
tbey call tho Prince of Mtarika), by which they have acquired a right
over all their lands. Mweli was very strong in hiB assertions to me that
the Portuguese bad not been able to make treaties with him, though
they desired to do so. By the chief Che Chikweo I was told that Lieut.
Cardozo bad tried to induce Mtarika to sign a treaty putting himself
Tinder tho protection of tho Portuguese Oovemment, but Mtarika would
not consent.
On arrival at Ibo, the Portuguese authorities were very kind to me :
tbe Governor, Senhor De Palma Velho, gave me an audience at once,
and provided me with a house and money. Both he and tbe new
governor who came into office whilst I was io Ibo, showed me much
kindness, especially in regard to tbe expedition, which was allow^ed to
pass from the place free of all passport or other dues.
From Ibo I went to Zanzibar, and thence to Aden, reaching England
on Tuesday, June 14th*
In introducing the subject of tlie evening—
The FuEsiDENT said that about two years ago Mr. Last was enlrusted by tbe
Council of tbe tvociety with a misaion to explore the ri^gion midway between
Mozambique and Lake Xyasaa, iuto a portion of which Couaul CTNoili bad pene-
trated a abort time before* He was especially desired to investigate a remarkable
mouutaioous tract, the Namuli Hilla, tbat bad been aeffu by Mr. O'Neill j and which
was originally reix»rtcd to tbat traveller to be covered with anow. Mr, Last's
inatructiona wera to proceed first to the junction of the Lugenda and Ruviima
rivera, and then fix the course of tbe Lukugu. Mr. Last returned to England only
a few days ago, and had oot yet bad an opportunity to complete a detailed report ;
the i>aper be would read must lie takenj therefore, only as a preliminary general
account of hia expedition. We abouid look forward with great interest to Mr. Laat*«
full description of the geography aud natural history of the country. It was
evident tbat the vegetation was most luxuriant, and the scenery beautiful, and
no doubt tbe animal life would be equally abundant.
After Mr, Last's* paper,
Mr. JoaEPU Thomson said that Mr* Last» before undertaking the present expG>
ditioo, had done important work in Uaagara and the neighbouring regions of Easit
Central Africa, contributing largely to our knowledge of the natural hiBtory of that
regiou. The country which had juat been described waa one of very great interest.
Tbo Namuli Mountains api>eared to be a [leculiar mountain district in that part of
Africa, and it would be well to know something about their geological formation.
Congut O'Neill had referred to them aa, in bis opinion, volcanic. If Mr. Last could
give the Society any inforniation on that i>oiut, it would be most interesting. Hu
had much pleasure in moving a cordial vote of thanks to Mr, Last for his paper.
( 479 )
A Journey through Yemen. By Major-General F. T. Haig.
CBead at the Erening Meeting, Jane 27th, 1887.)
The following paper has been compiled from rough notes of a tonr
through Yemen made in the month of January last. It may be useful
to future travellers, and also as furnishing some information respecting
a country in which we have certainly a deeper interest than any other
nation, but about which we have hitherto been content to know very
little. It is forty-seven years since we took possession of Aden, and
established a protectorate over some of the Arab tribes around it, tribes
numbering 130,000 souls, and occupying a tract of country 200 miles
in length by 40 in breadth. With these tribes we have distinct treaty
engagements ; we subsidise them so long as they are of good behaviour,
that is to say, pay them blackmail to the extent of 12,000 dollars a year,
and trouble ourselves no further about them than occasionally to inter-
fere to put down a disturbance, or to decide some disputed question of
succession.
Their territory not being divided from that to the north of it by
any mountain range or physical barrier of any kind, one would have
thought that some explorations of Turkish Yemen would have been
made, and some interest in its condition displayed by us. On the con-
trary, we are mainly indebted to an enterprising Italian, Eenzo Manzoni,
for what information we possess respecting it, and the map made by
that officer is the only one of any value that we have. This map, which
is published by Stanford, was my sole guide during my own tour, and
I found it to be exceedingly accurate along the route which I took
until, on my way southward from Sanaa, I entered British territory.
There it is full of mistakes; Manzoni probably filled it in from
information obtained in Aden.
My own object in visiting Yemen (the ancient Arabia Felix) was to
see what the country was like, and to learn something of the condition
of its inhabitants, with a view to ascertaining whether it might be
possible to do anything for their Christianisation. The route I
marked out for myself and which I was enabled to follow, was from
Hodeida on the western coast to Sanaa, the capital, a distance of
140 miles, and from Sanaa due south to Aden, 260 miles. Including a
week spent in Sanaa, the journey occupied in all thirty-one days. I
was accompanied by Ibrahim, the Bible Society's agent at Aden, a very
worthy man, who, though he knows no English, understood my bad
Arabic sufficiently to put it into good and intelligent Arabic for me,
and so acted as interpreter. I had a Somali servant, an exceedingly
active, intelligent, energetic fellow, who proved himself quite equal to
any travelling servant I ever had in India. Mules were the animals
selected to carry us, as being on the whole more comfortable to ride
480
A JODRNEY THROUGH YEMEN.
than either camelfl or donkeys, tliongh a little dearer. The Yemen
miiles are small, sturdy, compact animala, capable of any amoimt of
fatigne, and seemingly of climbing wherever a goat can climb, while to
my astonishment I fonnd that the camels would go wherever a mule
willp Including tlie two muleteers we were a party of five. The
charge per mule was 4 dollars, which, according to Arab cnstom, I had
to pay down in full before starting. Before describing our journey I
may hero give a few particulars about Ilodeida, our starting-point.
I had previously viaited Jeddfih^ Suakin, and MasBowah, and was
surprised to find Hodeida the busiest place of the four. There was
more life and movement in the streets and crowded bazaars thnn I had
eeen elsewhere, more signs of trade and buninees generally. Being tho
principal port of Yemen, most of the coffee and hides which aro the
fitaplc exports of the country are shipped from here. The popula-
tion may be from 25,000 to 3 0,000, including that in the fiulnirbs
outside the walls. Within the walls the houses, which aro mostly from
three to four Btories in height, are crowded together^ the streets being
mere narrow lanes six to nine feet in width* The bazaars are extensive,
and roofed over with poles and mats laid across to keep out the sun.
The town is no cleaner than most Arab towns^ but superior iu this
reapect to Jeddah. Tho water supply is poor, derived from wells at
some distance from the town, The market is fairly supplied with fniit
and vegetables. There aro about half-a-dozen English and Americans
resident, and a good many Gre4fks and other Levantines. There is no
harbour, but simply an open roadstead, the steamers lying a mile and a
half off the shore, but there is a pier, in somewhat rickety condition, at
which goods are ahipijcd and landed. There is a vice-consul, a Mtihom-
medan gentleman on the Bombay Medical Establishment, from whom I
received much kindness, and who is also inspector of the quarantine
arrangements at the island of Camaran, to the noilh, during the season
of the Haj.
We started for Sanaa, a party of five, on the evening of tho 29th
Januarj^ We had no guard of any kind, all the information I received
at Hodeida tending to show there was no necessity for such a precaution.
There may, no doubt » have been so in former times, but the iron rule of
the Turks has at least rendered this, the most frequented and important
line of communication in the country, comparatively safe for travellers-
For the first twenty-five miles the road lies across a gently undulaiing
plain, covered with low thorny buehes aud tufts of coarse gras«. Thijs
is the Tehama, and no doubt intensely hot in summer. Then, as a low
line of hills is approacheil, bigns of cultivation begin to appear, fields of
dharm and doUtn (kinds of miilet), and three or four small villages are
passed, the name of one of these, '* Deir el Hoonood," the monastery of
the Hindus, suggeating the idea that there may l>e truth in the tradition
that there was formerly a considerable body of Indians in thia |>art of
A JOURNEY THROUGH YEMEN. 481
Yemen. The plain, though somewhat narrowed by the approach of the
hills on both sides, continues on to Bajol, a place of some importance,
about a fourth the size of Hodeida, with a somewhat dilapidated fort,
very solidly built with cut stone, and a large population of weavers and
dyers.
At this point the hills rise to the proportions of mountains, the valley
between, up which the road runs, turning to the south-east, its surface
gravelly in most parts, but having a good deal of cultivation, and trees
such as acacias, dotted here and there over it. This is its character for
the next ten miles, after which the road enters and winds among low
spurs, but passing frequently through cultivated lands and patches of
forest of considerable height, and gradually becoming rougher and more
hilly until finally El Hujjela is reached, at a distance of about seventy-
five miles from Hodeida.
We reached this place long after dark, and put up at the Eahwa
(coffee-house) or travellers' rest-house, a large open thatched shed, which
was brilliantly lighted up by a good kerosine lamp, which seemed
strangely out of place in such a situation. Large quantities of kerosine
are, however, imported into Yemen. Much of it is sent to Sanaa, and
the kerosine cans are commonly used for carrying water at Hodeida and
elsewhere, as the taste of the water sometimes makes very plain. Hujjela
I found by aneroid to be 1780 feet above sea.
At this point the road enters the mountains, which towered grandly
above the little town situated near their foot. And here not only the
character of the scenery changed, but also that of the towns and villages.
In the plains they are built of mud, with thatched roofs. Throughout
the mountainous country they are all built of solid stone, the houses
being often of two to three stories in height, clustered closely around
the Zmr/, or tower, which rises in the centre to a considerable height
above its surroundings. The burj has usually been the residence of the
Sheikh, and would serve the purpose also of a watch-tower. Hujjela
was the first of this kind of villages that we came to, and I found, on
rising in the morning and taking a survey of the place and the sur-
rounding country, that we had now indeed entered Yemen proper.
A mile or two outside of the town the road enters the mountains,
following the bed of a torrent strewn with enormous boulders, having
many fine trees along its banks, but diy at the time of our visit. The
mountains rose steeply on both sides several thousand feet in height,
but with little vegetation on their lower slopes. Higher up we saw
terraces, and higher still large patches of coffee clustering in the ravines.
As we advanced the torrent bed became steeper and more difficult. The
toilsome ascent was, however, relieved by the magnificence of the sceneiy.
Openings in the mountains on both sides revealed other ranges rising
up to 6000 and 7000 feet, their rugged tops crowned at many points by
villages, while other villages, surrounded by coffee plantations, nestled
482
A JOURNEY THROUGH YEMEN.
OB their slopes* One of thesa views I shall never forget, whero a pile of
monntainfi rose steeply up, one above the other, like a huge pyramid, on
the top of which, through the clear air, we could distinctly see, at a
height of 8000 feet, the invariable village^ its burj standi ing clearly out
against the sky, the exquisitely auft and rich colourieg of the whole
being bej'ond deBcription*
After following tho torrent bed some miles farther, the road, or rather
pathway (for it must bo understood that there is no such thing as a made
road in the country) turned suddenly out of it and followed a zigzag np
the steep mountain side, ©very bit of which was terraced and cultivated*
Far above ub, at a hoight which I afterwards found to he 4660 feet,
we could see the village, burj, and kahwa (coffue -house), where wo were
to rest a while. We reached this about noon, and after a cup of coffee,
commenced the ascent once more. Hero I began for tho first time to
form some conception of the meaning of the magnificent scene around
me, Tho viUago was perched, as the villages always are^ on top of a
precipitous mass of rock at the end of a bpur, and from it I looked down
2000 feet into the torrent bed below, and 4000 feet up to the top of the
mountain, and eveiywhere, both abovo and below, to the right and to
the left, I saw nothing hut terraces. The whole mountain Bide, for a
height of 6000 feet, was terraced from top to bottom. The crops had all
been removed ; only some lines of coffee trees here and there were to be
seeUj but everywhere, above, below, and all around, these endless flights
of terrace walls met th© eye. One can hardly conceive the enormous
amount of labour, toil, and perseverance which these represent. The
terrace walls are usually from five to eight feet in height, but towards
the top of the mountain they are much higher, being sometimes as much
as 15 and 18 feet. They are built entirely of rough stone, laid without
mortar. I reckoned on an average that each wall retains a terrao© not
moro than twice its own height in width. So eteep, in fact, is the
mountain, that th© zigzag continues almost the whole way to the top-
It has been made with considerable care, and though its surface is often
rough and broken, th© wall which retains it is generally in good repair.
This was indeed the most striking charact oris tic of the whole mass of
terrace walls, the excellent condition in which they ar© maintained. I
do not think I saw a single breach in one of them unrepaired. It is
impossible not to feel that a race which baa erected such a marvellous
monument of human industry as this on© mountain side displays,
possesses capacities fitting it not only for a far higher civilisation, but
for no mean place in the scale of nationalities. The whole of the crops
are grown on these terraces, wheat and barley, oofie© and indigo, fruits
and vegetables* W© reached th© top of the mountain, which we crossed
at its lowest point, about sunset, when it was wrapped in clouds ^and
mist. Its height by aneroid was 8000 feet. We then descended the
other side to Menakha, which is situated at a height of 7610 feet, and
A JOURHEY THROUGH YEMEN.
483
86 miles distant from Hodeida. Here we found ourfielvos in quite a
pleasant climate, the temperature about 65^.
Menakha may have a population of 4000. It has a Turkish garrison,
and is an important Btrategical position. It is commanded from more
than one point on the mountain, and there forts have been erected. I
was imprudent enough to make a sketch of it from a neighbouriug hill,
which led to some polite inquiries by the Commandant, and a telegraphio
message to the Governor-General at Sanaa, but not to any very serious
difficulty. It may be mentioned here that there is a telegraph line from
Hodeida, via Menakha, to Sanaa, which appears to be kept in pretty
good order, though merchants at Hodeida say it is sometimes quicker to
«and by post, though that is only once a week.
Leaving Meuakha the road de&cenils the eastern face of the monntain
for 2700 feet by a far steeper and rougher path than that on the opposite
face. It is in fact for much of the way simply a ateep pile of boulders,
■down which one wonders how the little mules contrive to keep their
feet. Here, however, and in wore© places further on, it is still more
surprising to meet or overtake strings of loaded camels pursuing their
'w&y with as much composure as if they were simply crossing a plain.
The descent is down the end of a ravine, into a torrent leading out into
broken hilly country at a general level of 5000 to 5500 feet, with but
little cultivation. The trees and shrubs were here, as indeed almost
■everywhere else, scanty, and at that season for the most part leafless-
ilefaq was the halting-place for tho night, the khan where we stopped
being 5860 feet above sea, and the town and fort some 500 feet higher.
We were late in starting next morning, and halted for an hour at
noon at Suk el Khamis, 7740 feet above sea. We were now steadily
lising as we proceeded. It was very cold, and though wrapi»ed in
my warmest clothes, I could hardly keep myself warm. After leaving
Suk el Khamis, the path rises by exceedingly steep inclines up the
almost precipitous side of a mountain, growing worse and worse as we
proceeded, tho mules climbing over great buulders and trotting over
emooth rocks on the edge of terrific precipices. At last we reached the
highest point of the pass, 10,010 feet, the hills on each side of the path
being about 400 feet higher. Here a great extent of toiTacing was in
«ight. Then there was a rapid descent to a stream, the bed of which
was 0600, and this continued to be about tho average level of the co tin try
for several miles on to Selim Basha, a small village where we jiassed the
night, sixteen miles distant from Sanaa. The views thi±; day were
indeeorihably magnificent, especially from the highest part of the pass.
Far away on the horizon westward were ranges which seemed quite as
high, while all between was an endless succession of mountains, ravines,
•valleys, precipices, and rocky heights crowned by villages, tlie whole
lit up by a brilliant sunshine, the rich and varied tints of the nearer hills
^adually passing into the soft misty purples of the more distant rauges.
No, VIIL— Aug. 1887-] 2 n
4S4
A JOURNEY THROUGH YEMEK.
After cTOBsin^ tbo stream above -mentioned, a few hundred feet
"below tlie highest poiut of the pass, iho road lay through a country of
qtiite a new character; a siicceBsion of steppes, gently sloping valley s>
generally terraced and cultivated, from half a mile to a njile in width,
between low hills of trap, each steppe separated fnun the next by a
fihort fiharp descent. This is the character of the whole highlands of
Yemen, as far aa I was able to judge. It contimiod up to a point a few
miles from Sanaa, where a eudden turn brought us within sight of the
town lying 2000 feet below in a broad flat valley aome miles in width,
and extending in a north-east and south dir -ction as far as the eye
f>ou!d reach. The descent into the plain is rapid, and in another hour
or two I was resting beneath the hospittible roof of the Messrs. Caprolti,
two Italian gentlemen, w^ho received me with the utmost kindness and
made me their guest dnring the six days I spent in Sanaa,
It will thus be seen that to reach Sftnaa I had to surmount an
elevation of 10,000 feet. The map seems to show that by a more
sontherly route this may be avoided, and that, a practicable road might
be made with far less st^rions obstacles. My aneroid made the height
of Sanaa above the sea 7700 feet. Mr. Glascr, an Anstrian savant who
has recently been exploring the antiquities of the countrj% I was told,
makes it 7281 feet, a di6ference of about 0 per cent.
The town of SanEui is entirely snrronnded by a wall, partly earthen,
partly brick, of some miles in circuit, and enclosing a space which
evidently once contained a popnlation very much larger than the
present, which is rouglily calcubited at 30,000 to 35,000 souls. The
liiTgo Jewish quarter, with a popnlation of 5000, is separated from the
Mabommcdan parts of the town by a broad space of 150 yards in width.
The bouses are from three to fonr stories in height^ built of «tone in
most cases, quite destitute of any architectural beauty, but with a good
deal of ornament aticin of a peculiar kind on the walls and around the
windows. An objection was made by the Wali, or Governor-General, to
my sketching, and I could obtain no photographs, I was therefore
ubiiged to leave without bringing away with me any illustrations of a
style of architecture differing mnch from anj-thing I had seen elsewhere/
The bazaars are poor, and the w*hole aspect of the town corresponded to
the social condition of its inhabitants as de.^crihed to mo, an Arab popn-
lation intensely hating the few thousand I'nrks by whom it is held
down, heavily taxed, and generally obliged to furnish gratis the supplies
requiied for the large garrison of Turkish soldiers. The latter ai-o not
allowed to go into the narrow streets for fear of assassination. They
seemed to be well fed, but often badly clothed. There is a citadel at
one part of the walls, with its guns turned signifieantly not to the
outside, but upon the town. LaTge barracks are being constructed, and
there is a large military hospital, ivhich I gathered from an application
I made, it was not wished that I should see. The water supply is good,
A JOURNEY THROUGH YEMEN.
485
beiog <lerivod from wells sunk to great deptlia in the rock. Vast heaps
of ruhbiBh hnre and thore show where ex tensive htiildings must onco
have stood, aad I was shown the few and scarcoly distintrntBhablo ruins
of a Christian church of pre-Iislamio times. I called Upon the Grovemor-
General, and must do him the justice to say that* in spite of tho
biiapicions circumstances in which I was first brought to his notice, and
of my having neither letter of introduction, passport, nor even a printed
visiting card, he received me graciously, and gi-anted mo perraisaion to
proceed direct to Aden, instead of returning to Hodeida. He had much
to ask about Egypt and the Soudan* and espooijilly about India^ wiBhiog
to know if any jmrt of it correaponded in its phvsicitl charactenstics to
Yemen. I told him of the Himalayas and of Darjiling, which, though
situated at a similar height, 7000 feet, to Sanaa, is connected with the
plains and Calcntta by rail- There appears to bo no reason why Sanaa
should not be similarly connected with the port. Probably, it would not
be necessary to surmount any greater height than 8000 feet, and tho
pc^culiar steppe formation of the highlands would greatly facilitate the
extension of the line in two or three directions.
The Jewish p •pulalion of Sanaa appeared to be generally well-to-do.
Their quarter was clean, their houses models of neatness and cl«fauUuess.
They have twenty-three synagogues, and twenty sohooL* with 70i> hoys
in them. The whole male population can reatl, few of tho females,
Th y are tho masons and artiticei"8, and are preterred to the Mahom-
mcdans as servants by tho few Europeans, as being both cleaner, more
intelligent, and more trustworthy. They reckon their total numberH in
Yemen at 60,000. We found thein in almost every town and village
that we stopped at.
Before describing the road southwards to Aden I may hero give
some information as to the cliaiate and productions of high Yemen.
There are two rainy seasons, in spring and autumn. No measure of
the rainfall ha« ever been taken, but tho rain is said to come down in
torrents, generally falling every day, but only for a few hours. I was
shown one p *rt of Sanaa where the drainage flows in a perfect river at
such times. The temperature in winter often falls below freezing-point
during the night, and in tho hottest season the thermometer does not
rise above 80^ in the open air in the shade. Tiie temperature in th©
houses, which have lliiok wails, remains at about 62^ all the year
round. Last year was one of alaiost total failure of rain. The country
conseq^uently, when I passed through it, had an exceedingly parched,
dricd-up appearance, and tho temperature was higher than UHual at
that season. The thermometer was about 45^ in the open air in the
early morning, hut never rose above C2^ in the house in Sanaa,
This failure of the rainfall leads me to remark upon what is pro-
liably the chief cause of it, viz, the almost total deforesting of the
moimtainB above the GOOC^ feet leveL The utter barcmss of the soil,
2 N 2
4@6
A JOUENEV THROUGH YEMEN.
tlie almost total absenoe of either trees or bnebea, was a markod and
painful feature of the greater part of the liigliland plateaux which I
traversed. The people themselves seemed to have no traditioBB of
there ever having been more vegetation on the surface, but looking at
the fact that below the level I have mentioned both trees and shrubs
were certainly much more niiuierous, though the soil was inferior and
the rainfall must bo less, while the population ia less numerous, 1
think there can be little doubt that the denudation of the mountains is
simply due to the reckless destruction of the forests by an ignorant and
yet numerous population, and the neglect of any efforts to replace them
hy fresh planting. If so, the seasons have no doubt deteriorated, and
the rainfall is scantier and more precarious than formerly. Still there
are evidentlj^ springs in all directions all over the mountains j it is im-
possible that under any other conditions could the villages be perched,
as they always are, upon the highest and most inaccessible points.
All the streams we passed had fish in them. In the large Wady
Banna there were shoals of fish ae much as six inches in length, and I
was told that in Sanaa fish can sometimes be bought up to 12 lb& in
weight.
Irrigation is nniversally practised, the available water supply being
distributed by the hour to the lands entitled to it, the Arabs being very
clever at judging the time by measuring, foot by foot, the length of the
shadow. The task of distribution does not always fall upon the sheikh
of the village, bnt more commonly npon some one of the elders having
a reputation for honesty and fairness. The soil is rich; two crops a
year appears to be the rule everywhere, and with irrigation three and
four. The tillage is excellent. The plough, though it only turns up the
soil to the depth of a few inches, is often followed by a large sort of hoo,
something like a street-scraper, by means of which the loosened soil is
turned over transversely, one man holding the sci'aper and two others
dragging it by a rope attached to it. Land is freely bought and sold
within each tribe, and is inherited from the father in equal portions by
the children, except that a daughter*^ share is only one-half the son^s.
The Yemenis appear to be a prolific race. We saw everywhere great
numbers of children. The woman in charge of the khan in one village
that we passed through had ten children. On my expressing surprise
I was assured that that number was not nncommon, and was told of
another woman in the village who had had fifteen sons, every one of
whom, it was added, died on the battle-field.
In spite of all their toil and labour, and the wonderful industry
with which they terrace and cultivate the land, the people generally
looked poor, often miserably so. Their clothing ia of the meanest; a
sheepskin coat, the wool turned inside^ is the most important garment
of the men. The taxation is, I fear, heavy and capricious. It is con*
stantly collected only by military force* A Turkish official told me
•
A JOURNEY THROUGH YEMEN.
487
that defaulters are Bometimes tied to the mnzzle of a loaded £e1d-pie€e.
If the threat never goes ftii ther than this, one can hardly suppose it
likely to have any effiect, while yet one shrinks from imputing even to
the Turka, in the absence of positive evidence, such horrible barbarity as
the consnmmation of the threat woidd imply. But passion and hate run
high on both sides. Whole villagea are sometimes razed, and the Turks
have more than once marched . back to Sanaa with the Arabs' heads on
the points of their bayonets. It is needless to say that not one farthing
of the taxes taken ftom the people is letumed to them in any shape oi*
form whatever.
The productions of Yemen are numerous. Coffee, indigo^ and other
dyes are the most important. Vegetables of all kinds are abundant;
some, such as cabbages^ cauliflowers, ifec., growing to an enormous size and
weight. There is a profusion of fruit — grapes, figs, walnuts, peaches,
apricots, pears, &c. Grapes, I was told, are to be had during half the
year, and of large size and excellent flavour.
The principal exports are coffee and hides. There is a nominal
export duty of only 1 per cent,, but actually the amount levied is nearer
20 or 25 per cent. The fiscal system of the Turks, if it were really
carried into effect, would be by no means bad, but like every other depart-
ment of the Government, it is ruined by the utter corruption that prevails
in every branch of the administration from top to bottom. No more
eloquent expounders of the evils and hopeleesness of their whole system
are to be found than the Turks themselves, as I found from conversations
wilh two or three of their own officials.
The road from Sanaa to Aden runs at first for many miles in a nearly
southerly direction, but a Greek having lieen murdered on it, one or two
marches from Sanaa, a few days before I started, I was taken by a more
circuitous route, via Walan and Ma'ahar. For the firat twenty -five miles
the road runs through a broad valley, slowly rising until at length the
hills enclosing it are crossed at a height of 9600 feet. There is then a
steep descent by a broad zigzag path, which still has some remains of
the massive paving which covered it in the times of the Arab dynasties.
This leads to a great plain at least twenty miles in length, and from three
to five miles in widths cultivated in parts, many wells being in use for
this purpose, and having a few villages scattered over it. Ma*abar, which
is one of these, where we stopped for the night, is 8Q80 feet above the
sea. The plain extends some miles further, and the road then rises on
to a vast flat plateau of trap, quite bare for a mile or two, then disinte-
grated into a soil which is extensively cultivated. The highest point in
this plateau was at the village of Darrab, 8510 feet. Bhamar, an im»
portant town of some thousands of inhabitants, and having a Turkish
garrison, is situated at the southern end of the plateau. It bears
throughout the marks of Turkish rule — decay, poverty, and squalor.
There are some mosques, and two or three minarets, all, like most of the
488
A JOURNEY THEOUGH YEMEN.
miDai^ts in Sanaa and elBewhere, out of the perpendicular. On© bad
been nearly brought down by a shot from a Turkish cannon during some
emeute^ wheo the Arabs totik refuge in the mosque, and the Tnrka fired
upon it.
Proceeding southwards from Dhamar, the road lies over great sheets
of trjip for some distance, and through a very broken mountaiDoua country
to Yerinij an important town about the size of Dhaiuar, 92(50 feet above
the sea. Yerim is 80 miles from Sanaa, and 170 miles from Aden, Hero
we met for the first time with quarter rupees and two-anna bits in the
bazaar, marking the limits to which British ci4nage has penetrated.
Elsewhere the Austnan dollar and some copper coins were the only coins
to be seen, and theae are in fact, as a rule, the only kind of money in
which the Arabs believe. When I paid oft my camel-men in Adt^n they
refused to take rupees^ and insisted on having dollars instead.
Afttir leaving Yerim, the rua'l ran for many miles through a series of
broad valleys, well cultivated, wirh a go<Ki deal of irrigation. Then a
sudden descent of several hundrefi feet took us into the bed of a torrent,
which led out into a much larger valley between high mountains, scarped
and precipitous at the top, but their lower slopes beautifully terracetl
and irrigated, and dotted over witli numerous villages. We found we
were in the valley of the Wady Bunna. The road, which was only a
few feet in width, ran along the steep side of a mountain at a giddy
height above the river at its foot, but about sunset we descended into
the Wady and croshcd the stream, wliich was flowing with a rapid
current about tliirty feet in width and eighteen inches deep. Its bod I
found to be 71 10 ft?et above the sea.
The whole road south of Yerim lay through a country much greener
than any we had yet t^een ; there was much grass and turf, and small
bushes covering the hill slojxjs gave theni quite an appearance of verdure.
All the way south of S "naa wo found bushes and trees along the margins
of the streams, but south of Yerim the country looked as if there must
bo a more abundant rainfall. Certainly there was a marked change in
the appearance of verdui'e everywhere.
The next day's journey was one of great fatigue. The rf>ad lay
through a very wild country, and at length towards evening gradually
ascended to the top of a mountain range which we crossed at its lowest
point, 81310 feet. We then descended 1900 feet down the other side by
the steepest and most difficult path we had yet traversed. It was
wonderful bow the mules kept their feet at all. The difficulty was
increased by our meeting stririgs of loaded camels and donkeys carrying
U]) tobacco, cloth, and other things from Aden to Sanaa.
A march of 30 miles next day through mountains moro wooded tbnn
any we had seen before brought us to Qataba, the frontier customs
town of Turkish Yemen, W^e crossed the frontier the following day at
El Gblile and entered the territory of the protected tribes, which is here
■
A JOEIENEY THROUGH YEMEK.— DISCUSSION.
489
at an elevation of 4000 feet above sea. In the first part of tke 80 miles
loetween this point and Aflon tho descent is rapid. The hotter plains
are then reached, hut these furnish no Subjects of any interest for remark,
I sent off my camels with my servent to Aden, but myself, with Ibrahim,
struck off on foot in a south-east direction through tlie Abian country
to Shugra on the coa&t, where we found a boat and by it made our way
back to Aden, soiu© 60 miles, by sea.
The country which I have described does not appear to be the finest
part of Yemen. I was told that the finest country in point of population
and pToduotionB lies to the north of Sanaa* The mountain region
extends quite 300 miles north of that place into Assir. The watei'shed
would appear to be some distance to tho east of the meridian of Sanaa,
but the country there has been very little explored. Enough bats, how-
oyer, perhaps been said to show that tho whole of this part of Arabia is
deserving of greater attention and more carefMl investigation than have
yet been bestowed upon it* Much of it posse Bses a climate quite sail able
for European coL ►nisiation. In addition to coffees which is indigenous,
and the cultivation of which is probably capable of considerable ex-
tension, Yemen is said to possess mineral riches. I w*as told by two
Europeans that they had themselves seen coal, and that there is much
sulphur as well as iron ore. The Turks of course do nothing for it;
under their rule its c^pabililiee are kept down to their lowest poesible
point. But they hold it with difficulty. They have already once been
expelled from Sunaa, every man of them having been put to the sword.
If the time should come that they would be obliged to evacuate yomcu,
there can be no di>iibt that EngliJih rule would be welcomed, Aden is
visited by Araba from all parts of Yemen, and the spectacle of a wise,
firm, and just rule there presented has made a deep impression upon the
whol« population. Thi re can be little doubt tbey would gladly see it
extended to their own country. Meantime the Turks ai-e quietly en-
deavouring to push their frontier further east into Hadramaut, a country
in its western part very similar apparently to Yemen, and so completLly
to hem in on ail sides the little strip of British teiritory around Aden.
The Kaimakam of Q^ttaba, the frontier tuDwn, an old Turkish officer, was
full of a project for annexing the Yafa country to tho east, and spoke to
me about it more than once. How far it is wise to allow Turkey thus
to extend and surround our own territory on every aide, this is not the
place to discuss. Certain it is that such extension brings no good to
races possessing very considerable natural capabilities, and quite capable
of appreciating the benefits of a wise and enlightened government.
After General Haig^s paper,
Sir B\ GouoisMio agreed with General Hai? that it was most desirable to learn
something mure about Yemen. The neighbouring Hadraraaut also was an exceed*
ingly intereatiag region about which very httlc wa« known btyoud the line of coast-
It was not, periiapi, generally rcalisjed that HaJrauiiiut was tke muther country of
490
RECENT CHANGES IN THE MAP OF EAST AFRICA.
the Dutch Arab colonists m Java and the Eastern Archipelago, Recently the
Govertiment of the Netherlands had published a work on those colonists, and in
that there was the usual lament thai 80 little was known about the interior of
lladramaut. Tlje thanks of the Society were due to General Haig for having
brought forward this subject of the exploration of Yemen.
The President said that General Haig had by this journey opened np a field fof
further invefitigation and in<juiry, and it was to be hoped that some enterprising
traveilera would follow in his path, and obtain further details of the condition of the
people and the natural prodnotiona of these regiona. He agreed with General Eoig
that some discredit attached to the British Government for not having done a greal
deal more towards the exploration of mountain districts which were within easy
reach of Aden and Muscat, Considering the beautiful climate that prevailed
within a short distance of Aden in these mountains, he thought that something
might be done towards forraing a settlement in them which might be visited by the
British occupants of Aden.
Beeeni ClmngeB in the Map of East Afriea^
Map, p. iiSO.
The accompanying map showa the political boundaries in Eastom
Etjuatorial Africa resulting from the agreement arrived at by the
British and German Governments in October last. The movement
which lias led to the acquisition of territories in the Zanzibar region
by Germany, originated with Dr. K. Peters, who founded in April
1884, a ** Society for German Colonisation*' at Berlin, similar in plan
to an older " Kolonialverein,'* but bent upon the realisation of more
aiubitfons schemes. The society at first intended to acquire land near
Humpata, at the back of Mu^^saraedes in Fortugneso Western Africa,
upon which German coloni^ti* might be eettltd, but Count Joachim
Pfeil, who had some knowledge of the country, pointed out the superior
advantugON of Eastern Africa, and Mr, Stanley's glowing account of
Usagara, finally detonnined the direction of the enterprise. Dr. Peters,
Dr. Jlihlke, and Count J, Pfeil were therefore authuriscd to accfuiro
land suit^ible for the establishment of German Mgrieulturul and com-
mercial colonies. Their intention, however^ owing to the indiscretion
of one of the directors, became known, and to prevent being forestalled,
a repoit was spread tliat the party of colonisers were bound for the
Congo, instead of which the three adventurers quietly embarked for
Zanzibar, under assumed names, and as steerage passengers.
They reached that place on November 4th 1884; on the 12th
of that month they left Saadani for the interior, and on November
* BubihI upon the KohmiaJ-Polilkch^ Korreispondeuz^ a weekly pnpor, published hy
thi3 '* Bwi^ity for Uenimn CobnisiitiDn/' J. Wjignet'a * Dcutcb'Oat^Arriktt,* and other
publicaUotts of the *' Gtrman East African Company.*'
RECENT CHANGES IN THE MAP OF EAST AFRICA.
491
1 9 ih signed their first treaty, and hoisted the German flag at Mbuzini.
Cotlnt Pfeil remained behind at Mninyi in Ueagara, whilst Drs. Petci's
and Jiihlke hastened back to tlie' coast, arriving at Bagamojo on
Uecemher 17th, Laving %vithin that ehort epace concluded treaties with
eight chiefs, by which they claimed that all Uzegnha, Ngnro, Usagaia,
and Ukami had come into their poBSCBsion.
Peters then returned to Berlin, and on February l2th, 1885, founded
the "' German East-African Company," to which the rigfits he and
his colleagues had acquired were ceded, and which received an Imperial
*' Schutzbrief,** or letter of protection, and was SfibBeqiiontly granted a
Charter. The present capital of the Company is 25O,O0OL
The newly-formed Company lost no time in pushing forward its
prospecting expeditions in Eastern Africa, for it was thought politic
to acquire territories in all sorts of places, in order that on the day on
which conflicting claims were settled^ something should be left worth
keeping.
Dr. Jiihlke, who had remained behind at Zanzibar as Agent-General,
was joined on March 22nd 1885, by a first reinforcement, headed by
Lieutenant "Weiss, and on April 3rd by Mr. Hocmecke, the leader of a
Becond detachment. Four more parties arrived in the course of the year.
It was at first intended to send exploring parties as far as Lake Tan-
ganyika and the Victoria Kyanza. This plan, however, was ultimately
given np, and Dr. Jiihlke and Lieutenant Weiss were instructed instead
to proceed to Mount Kilimanjaro. Tbey started from Pangani on
May 10th, 1885, ascended the valley of the Rufn, making treaties
with Simboya, the leading chief of Usambara, and with others. On
approaching Ta%'eta they met people belonging to a detachment of
Zanzibar soldiers returning from Moahi in Chagga, whose leader.
General MattheTvs, had succeeded in persuading the chief Mandara to
hoist the Sultan's flag. Dr. Jiihlke, however, j>ersevered in his oTsject.
Ho arrived at Moshi on June 15th, and on June 29 tb, 1885, Mtmdiira
put his mark to a treaty, by which he placed himself under German pro-
tection, and ceded the whole of his rights as a sovereign to the German
Company. He declared at the same time, that the Snl tan's flag had
been hoisted merely as a sign of friendship. Dr. JQhlke, after tluB,
hurried back to the coast, and Mandara has seen no representative of
the German Company since,*
It is hardly to be wondered at that these German agents came
occasionally into conflict with the authorities of the Sultan at Zanzibar,
♦ The Rev. E. A. Fitch and Mr. J. A, Wmy. of the Church Mieeionary Society, nvho
amved at Mo&hl ou July Ist, 1885, i mined intely after Dr. Jiihlke e deporturf^ found
the Zanzibar flag flyinjj, and wero Bsdtn^d subsequently by Mundaxathftt no titaty with
Gemiiiny had been signed by hira. Mr. Bucbatian, of the Maiiehe&ter Chftinber of
Coiiir»erce, arrived at Moehi oa Juae 29tlif 188C>. (*C1iuk*Ii MisdouiLry lat^Uigouoer,*
1886, p. 559.)
102
1?EC£NT CHANGES IN THE MAP OF EAST AFRICA.
who not only claimed tlio whole of tlio coast, but also tlio interior, as for
U8 Lake Taugatiyika, aud bcyontl. Tboao claimH, however, wcro not
recognised by Gurmany, and when a pnworful Germau squadron put in.
an op|i(iarance at Zanzibur in An^uat, 1885, the t>olt?Ln, on the 14th of
the month, lecognisod Usagara, Kguru, Useguha, Ukami and Wito as
German pix>tectoratos, and consented to the couclusion of a com mere Jul
treaty and to the demai cati< ii of the tjoniidariea by an international
commission* A Commerdal Treaty with Germany was signed at Zanzibar
on December 20th, 1885, and the poUtioal boundaries were settled by a
joint British and German Commis^jion, and embodied in the London
CouYention of November 1» 188G*
The attempt of Dr. Jiihlke to obtein a footing on the Jub and in
Southern Somal Land ended disastrously for that energetic agent of
the Company, On November luth, 188t), tho Isolde appeared ulF tho
mouth of the Jub, The whale-boat was sent to examine the bar of
the river, but was swamped, and Lieutenant Giantter and two sailoi's
wero drowned. Dr. Jiihlke immediately sailed for E^ismayu, whence,
notwithstanding the obstaoles placed in his way by the Sultan » Vrtli, ho
proceeded by land to the sc^ne of the disaster. Whilst at Kismuyu, ho
entei ed into communicartion with All bin Small and other Somal chiefs,
and having been close tod with them fur thrte hours and a hnU during
the night from the loth to the 16th November, bo succeeded in per-
fiuadiug them to place them^elvei* under the protection of Germany.
Ali received 32/. in acknowledgment of Im goud-will, but he begged
Dr. Jiihlke to keep the knowledge of this pecuniary transaction from
his brother chiefs, as otherwise they might cut his throat. This does
not look as if these negotiations hud been popularly approved of, and
Mr* G, Denliardt does not hesitate to ascribe Dn Jiihlko's murder on
December Ut to political motives,* Kobbery, at all events, was not the
object, for Dr. Jiihlke's valuable property was not touched. Tho
murderer has since been executed by the Sultan of Zanzibar*s orders.
Whiifet tbese events took place in tbe Somal country the procesa of
annexation went on in the south wdthin the limits of the lenitorj^
ainco declared to bo under Germ an iniliienoe. Count J. Pfeili id tho
Cijurse of his explorations in the Lutiji basin, 1885-6, concluded treaties
in Ubehe, Ubena and Mahenge, as also with the Wamacbonde and
WangindOi which established claims over a vast territory.
The first stations in the newly acquired German possessions -were
founded in March and April 1886, in the valley of the Kingani, and the
development and extension of these stations has been the principal aim
of tbe Company Binco tbe period of annexations has come to a close.
AVith a view to furthering this object, Dr* Peters, with a staff of twa-nty-
thiee persons, including engineer.'^, surveyors, agriculturists, and medical
men, left Gerujany in April and arrived at Zanzibar on May 17.
♦ * Allgcmeinci Zeitung,* 1887, p. 175.
KECEKT CHANGES IN THE MAP OF EAST AFKICA.
493
Tbe teixiioiial areas in tha^ regioD, roughly estimated, are «b
follows : —
The SuliiiQ of ZaTizibaf^s donuoioiis (Zfi^nsibAi Idanrl, 6H eq* m. ; Peinba, Ens, ■<!< ^*
372 sq. m. ; 5Iiitia» '^l*) sq. m. ; mamHaad, bOUO ^q. m.) 9|190
Oerman Prok>ctomtuii (Wito-Inad, 52O0 eq. n>. ; Usagiim, <S:e., 20JOO aq. m.) 25»900
EematDing territoriee over which GcrmaDV is allowed tu establkk Pro-
t©Ltorates ., ., , ♦/ .. .» 122,800
TeiriUjries over wltieh England is allowed ta Citablieh Prot«ctorate« -» ,. 72^000
Wifco-land, under Sultan Ahmed Siraba, accepted a German Pro-
tectorate on April 8th, 1885, and the ooast abutting u^K>n Man da Bay
has been assigned to it The neiirhlHimrins^ is hinds, with the excep-
tion of Lamu, have been relinquished by Zanzibar, AVito-land,
which is in part inhabited by Galla, is described as a generally level
country, well adapted to agriculture. The territories ceded within it
to the brothers Denhardt were tranaferred by tbeui, in June 1886, to
the *' Deutsche Eolonialverein.**
A commencement has l^een made in the occupation of the route which
leads np the Fanj^uni or IJutu river into the Masai country and to
Mount Kilinia-njarOi Korogwe, the first station, lies about 53 miles up
the river, un a lull, and was founded in May 1886 by Mr. W, Braun.
The surrounding country is deseiibtid as delightful. The natives culti-
vate durrah, maize, and manioc, and tbcr© are not wanting shady spots
well adapted for the cultivation of coffee. The coco-palm is met with
aa far as 3Iaurwi, 10 nules t>eyond Korogwe. Later in the year. Mi*.
Braun founded a station at the foot of Mount Mafi, 30 miles further up
the Pangani* and quite recently ho has been authorised to push ahead,
and to estabiiiih himself at the foot of Kilima-njaro. The customs
administration of Pangani is to be intrusted by the Sultan of Zanzibar
to the German Company.
The important caravan route which leads inland from Saadani has
likewise been occupied. Saadani itself is au insignifio^nt place, with an
open roadstead. The Wami, which enters the sea to the south of it, and
which in the hill oouutry of Uaagara is known as the Mukondokwa, has
not yet been fully examined as to its navigability.
Petershohe, the first station on this r< -ute, lies about 52 miles inland,
and was founded by Lieut, von Andeilen in July 1886. It occupies tho
slope of a hill, by the side of the Eukegura rivulet, not far from the
village Mbuzini, where the German flag was first unfurled in Eastern
Africa. The station buildings occupy about 1500 square yards, and aii3
raised upon stone foundations. The live slock includes cattle, sheep,
goats, and asses, and about ten acres of laud, by the river side, have
been brought under cultivation, and bananas and other fruit trees have
been planted.
Proceeding up the valley of the Wami we pass Kondoa, for years the
residence of Capt. and Mrs. Bloyet, who treated Count Pfeil with great
kindness when he wm stricken down by disease, and at length reach
iU
RECEKT CHAKGES IN THE MAP OF EAST AFRICA.
Muinyi^ the reBidenco of the principal chief of Usagara, in whose vici-
nity Count Pfcil, in March 1B85, founded the Simha station. Mr, Cari
Schmidt, a practical agriculturist, apeak b highly of the soil, and states
that the distrihution of the rainfall throughout the year is favourable.
About ten acres have been planted here with food*plants, ground- nuts,
red pepper, kueme (a creeper yielding oil), and tobacco. It is proposed
to introduce the Capo vine. The live stock includes cows, sheep, goats,
pigs, fowls, geese, and pigeons. Kiora, in the same part of the country,
is an out-station, founded by Mr. Ehodes iu November 1885.
The stations which have been founded in Uzaramo, along the route
which leads from Bagamoyo up the Kingani river, appear to have
made most advance. At Bagamoyo itself, well-known as the head-
quarters of the French mission, %vith whom excellent relations have been
established, the Company maintain a store from which the inland
stations are supplied. The Kiogani is navigable for small steamers for
a considerable distance into the interior, and a steam launch has been
placed upon it The river inundates its valley for a considerable
distance, and has not inaptly been called a miniature Nile. The
bottom-lands ai*e well adapted for the growth of cotton, sugar-cane,
sesame, indigo, and rice. The hiOs bounding the valley are partly
wooded. The company's stations have Ix^en placed upon bluffs com-
manding the valley below, Dunda, the first among them, stands about
22 miles from Saadani, and was founded on March 5, 1880, by LieuL
Krenzler. It occupies the edge of u bluff, rising IGO feet above the
valley, and has been fortified by Lieut. Biilow, and armed with two
guns. Commodious dwelling-houses, a smith's shop, a store, and
stabling for cattle, sheep, goat«, and asses have been erected, and a
hospital is in course of construction. By November 1880, 122 acres
had been planted with manioc, maize, beans, sugar-cane, cotton,
tobacco, &c. The soil is good. There is no tsetse, but the grass is too
teoarse for working cattle, and for the most part eour, and it is proposed
to introduce French lucerne, red clover, and English rye-grass.
Already two German colonists have established themselves near the
station, at Barkenfelde, and, to judge from their letters, they are well
content with their lot. A hospital, under the direction of Baroness
Frieda von Biilow, is in course of organisation.
Alxjut 22 miles higher up the river we reach Madimola, founded by
Lieut, Saint'Paul-lllaire. Samples of cotton forwarded from this
station in October 1886, were declared by Bremen experts to be
snperior to middling Orleans.
The third station, Usiiungula, stands 75 miles from the coast, and
was founded on April 25th, 1886, by Lieut. Zelewski. It occupies
the edge of the plateau, about 300 feet above the river, and is backed
by wooded hills attaining a height of about a thousand feet. About
6400 acres of land are available here for agricultural purposes, and
R£C£NT CHANGES IN THE MAP OF EAST AFRICA. 495
4J acres have been planted experimentally with tobacco, ground-nuts,
&c. The soil, a brown loam, is well adapted for Egyptian wheat.
Formerly this district was much exposed to the predatory incursions of
the Fituli, a tribe of Ukami, but Lieut. Zelewski has organised a native
militia, and these raids have since ceased.
Dares-Salaam, to the south of Bagamoyo, lies within the territory
assigned to the Sultan of Zanzibar, but its custom-house is to be placed
under German administration, on behalf of the Sultan. Preparations
have been made for planting stations in the valley of the Bafiji.
Looking bcusk at the work which has been accomplished since
Dr. Peters first planted the German flag at Mbuzini, it must be admitted
that considerable progress has been made. The Company is very
reticent as to the system of administration which it is proposed to
introduce into these African possessions. We have, however, this
emphatic declaration on the part of Dr. Peters, that it is not their
intention to found "a State like that founded by Mr. Stanley in
Western Africa." The German East African Company may in the mean-
time be described as a trading company, like the Royal Niger
Company, and arrangements have virtually been made with two
Grerman firms at Zanzibar, Messrs. Hansing and O'Swald, to act as its
agents.
The development of the resources of the country is to be left to
other agencies. There is no talk now of diverting a stream of German
emigrants to Eastern Africa, although a few experimental settlements
may possibly be established in promising localities. It is thought,
however, that Eastern Africa might yield at least a portion of the
colonial produce upon which Germany annually expends about forty
millions, and that this produce might be paid for with German manu-
factures. It is more especially intended to cultivate tobacco, coffee, and
cotton, and for this purpose a " Plantation Company " has been founded
with a capital of 100,000Z. An agent of the Company, Mr. Schroeder,
formerly a planter in Sumatra, amved at Zanzibar on March 6th, of the
present year. A survey for a railway is about to be commenced, and
mining operations have been heard of.
The labour question has hitherto presented no difficulty, although it
is admitted that the natives frequently leave their work after a month,
and only return when their wages have been expended. At some of the
Company's stations between 60 and 80 natives are employed daily on
agricultural and other work, and they have generally given satisfaction,
three negroes doing the work of two Germans. The wages paid vary
between three and five rupees a month with five or six pesos posho per
diem in lieu of board. The total monthly wage thus amounts to only
from 11«. Id. to 15«. 7d., reckoning the rupee at two shillings. The
Company only punishes breaches of contract; and men who desert,
after having received their wages, are set to work until the amount
49a
RECENT CHANGES IN THE MAP OF EAST AFRICA,
Iiae l^eea made up, and are then dismiesecL It htm not hitherto been
foiiBcl ixeceesary to employ compulsion. Mr. Hoeniecke very fairly
points out that slavery, vla well as the arbitrary procefdiugs of certain
ruling tribeSt demoralist'd the native. He recommends to employ the
slave-lalx>ur of the locality, but not to permit the introduction of slaves
from other districts. A plot of land is to be allotted to each labourer,
(as part of his hire> and by steadiness ho is to be enabled to procure his
emancipation, Mr, Hoemecke strongly recommends co-operation witii
the missionaries,*
A Grerman MiBSionary Society for Eastern Africa was established at
Hersbruck in Bavaria, in January 1886, and has already despatched twt>
missionaries, who have for the present taken up their quarters near
Kabbai, but will ultimately penetrate into IJkamba, Another missio-
nary society was established at Berlin^ by memhors of the Company, and
will confine its operations to the German territories. A third society
was founded at Neunkirchen, These three sfjcieties have already
despatched seven missionaries and three ladies to Zanzibar. It seems
too, as if the French Fathers of the "Congregation du St. Esprit/*
who work at present bo successfully, are partly to Ite superseded by
missionaries supplied from the College of Eeichenbach. The Holy
Congregation's consent to this change is stated to have been obtained
by Br. Peters duruig a recent visit to Rome.
Scientific work ba« not been neglected by the agents of the Company,
Count Juachim Pfeirs joui-ney in 1885H3 has very materially increased
our knowledge of the Lufiji vaUey ;| the expedition to Mount Kilimanjaro,
under I>r. Jiiblke and Lieutenant Weis?*, has yielded som© useful
results ;t and Dr. K. W, Schmidt, a geologist, has jnsf returned to Berlin
with a vahialdo mincralogical collection, and is preparing au account of
his explorations. It is gratifying to notice that these reports are not
withheld from the public from a mistaken and shortsighted notion of
their being used to the prejudice of the Company,
* On the Traininjj of ih© Negrro to Lahoof, see tlic csstits hj Dr. MiTcnsky and
HcrmaTi Bilx>| recently publiiiliod at Berlin. They weie riward(:'tl prizes ofll'rutl by tbt*
German Company,
t 'ProceedfngB K.G.S.j'uuftr, p. 47*
t Weifie, 'Meine Reiae imcli dnti Kiliina-NdBcliaro-Gcbif^t/ Berlin, 18S6; nnd K*
Jhhlke* ' Die Erwerbiing deu KiliDia-Ndiitharo-Gcbieta/ Cologne, 18S6.
( 497 )
Journeys in the District of Delagoa Bay, Dec. 1886-J*an. 1887.
By H. E. O'Neill, Esq., H.M. Consul, Mozambique.*
In December last Mr. 0*Neill left Mozambique on ah official mission to
Delagoa Bay, and reached that place on the 23rd of the month. He
reports as follows on his jonmeys in the neighbonrhood, and on the
present condition of the Portnguese colony : —
There are two rentes now in nse from Delagoa Bay to the Transvaal,
both sketched on the accompanying map. The first-established, bnt
longer one, is that which leads from the lowest " drift " or ford npon the
Temby river, through Swazi-land into that State. It was this road that
was selected by the Portuguese Engineers, employed in 1878 and 1879,
for the survey of the projected line of rail to Pretoria. The second,
along which for some distance the railw^ty now being constructed will
run, leads from the town of Delagoa Bay, crosses the Lobombo range at
the Matala *' Poort," or pass, and descending into the valley of the
Incomati river, follows the course of that river until within a day's
journey of Barberton.
My desire was to give both these routes a trial. Starting on the
first, I planned to pass through Swazi-land, returning to Delagoa by the
second, which is generally known by the name of the Incomati route.
These two routes compete, in a measure, one with the other for the gold-
fields trade, as well as with their great rivals passing through the Cape
Colony and Natal. I regret to say that I have failed to carry out these
plans. Although I travelled some distance on both of these roads, I
nowhere crossed the Portuguese frontier.
On the morning of the 27th December I left the town of Loren9o
Marques, and after a drive of about six hours encamped at a point upon
the head-waters of the MatoUa river, a small affluent of the Temby.
This portion of the road is over a very soft, yielding sand, and gives
such heavy work for waggon iraffic that the Boers who come down in the
winter rarely bring their wagq:ons into the town. Goods are conveyed
by lx)ats a short distance up the Temby and MatoUa rivers, and taken
np by the waggons at a point called Malbenbaan. Thence, if for Swazi-
land, they proceed by the route followed up by me to the Umbelosi
drift, cross that river and join the Temby drift road. If they are for
Barberton they almost invariably go by the Incomati valley.
On Tuesday, after an early start, we reached a station kept by an
Englishman called Sheppard, at which the Incomati and Umbelosi roads
diverge, and, outspanning here for breakfast, pushed on in the afternoon
to Malbenbaan. On Wednesday, a drive of seven hours over a lightly
timbered country of sandy soil brought us to the river Umbelosi,
and I encamped at the ford which the transport waggons usually cross.
* CkmunuDicated by the Foreign Office.
JOURNETS IN THg DISTRICT OF DELAGOA BAY.
t89
As you ent«r the Umbelosi valley the aspect of the country changes
-very markedly, the broken outlines and precipitous faces of the Loni-
bombo range coming suddenly into view at a distance of only 10 or 12
miles, whilst the valley itself with ita vivid green pasturage, its winding
river, and well wooded banks, presents a sharp and pleasant contrast to
the country we had just passed over. Its reputation for sickness and
death, more especially in the rainy season, is the very worst, and I began
at once to feel its evil effects. The acute form of %vhat is called " horse
sickuess '* broke out amongst my team, and before I had been three daya
camped in the valley two of my mules were dead. A slight delay there
was unavoidable on account of the condition of the stream, which was
in flood, and not expected to he passable for several days. But if X was
to get on a stronger team became necessary « and I wrote back at once
for a reinforcement of mules* When a third, however, began to sicken,
it was clearly time to turn back and strive to g#t into a healthier
locality, 1 therefore turned, and on my way back to Malhenbaau
received the disappointing reply that three of the six remaining mules
belonging to the Transport Company were also dead. It became very
plain then that it would be foHy to attempt the journey with such
transport at this season, and I reluctantly decided to return to Belagoa
Bay.
I need not give a detailed description of our return, which was
made with some difficulty, as the half-team to which we were now
reduced could only drag a lightened cart, and we all had to trudge
alongside, now and then ** putting shoulder to the wheels " to help them
out of the soft deep sand-pits into which they sank. A short delay was
necessary at Sheppard's station, and it was not until the evening of the
4th that we again reached the town of Lorenzo Marques,
I had seen enough to con%anco me that no team of mules was capable
of travelling, in this reason at least, in the low country. Others, how-
ever, were not easily conviDced, and a week after my return, a fresh
supply of animals being procured from the high voldt, another waggon
was despatched with twelve mules by way of the Incomati for Barberton,
This venture was even more disastrous than mine, for before they
had got 30 miles on their journey five of their mules were dead. Nor
need I describe the sickness which caused this mortality, for it is too
well known* It was the horse or lung sickness, that every year carries
oflF thousands of horses and cattle even on the high veldt of the
Transvaal and our South African Colonies, and which during the
Transvaal war Itaffled the skill of our regimental veterinary surgeons to
cure, or prevent, or even discover the cause, as to which there are
numerous theories. It works most rapidly, and tix hours is generally
sufficient to carry off an apparently healthy animal.
Two days after my return I began to feel myself the Hi-effects of the
low, swampy, and unhealthy localities through which I had been
No. YIIL— Aug. 1887,] 2 o
000
JOURNETS IN THE DISTRICT OF DEL.VQOA BAT.
pasemg, and I waa attacked by a sharp fever which confined me to my
room for five days. Recovering from thie, and Biiding that the time left
me was not eufficient to carry out a jo^mey into the interior, I decided
to visit Inyack Island and see for myself the nature of the Portnguese
occupation there ; an occupation ivhich was not efifected for some years
after the case referred to the arbitration of Marshal MacMahon had
l>een given in their favour* Ifeporte have often reached me of the claim
still made over the island by the Queen of the Amatongas^ and quite
recently I had heard of an objection raised by hor to the construction of
a lighthouse upon it, a work much wanted in the interest of the
ahtpptng visiting Belagoa Bay-
From tho 15th to the 20th January was taken np by this visit, I
found the island effoctively occupied by a detachment of about twenty
BoldiorB, commanded by a lieutenant in the Portuguese army. They
were well housed in small but substantial barrackSi situated upon an
elevated and healthy site overlooking Port MelviOe and the bay, A
couple of small guns, mounted on field carriages, commanded tho
anchorage. Nevertheless, the occupation is a purely military one, and it
is pretty clearly felt that the neighbouring Amatongaa are not to be
trusted, A strong proof was given to tho authorities of their inde-
pendence some months ago, by their refusing to permit the marking off
of the fanciful boundary given in Marshal MacMahon *8 award. The
frontier line tlien fixed as 26^^ 30' S. lat» runs through the centre
of Amatonga territory, passing 'very near tho Queen's kraal, and it is
not unnatural that they should raiso some objection to it. Except bo
far that it excludes the British the award has remained a dead letter,
and the Amatonga Queen exercises a pmctical jurisdiction up to tho
mouth of the Maputa riven
Upon Inyack Island there are, perhaps, a couple of hundred natives,
who subsist by fishing and fumisbing supplies of fresh food to the
military detachment. Regular communication is kept up with the
latter by a schooner from Lorengo Marques, and the commandant
informed me that they were relieved every three months.
On the 20 th I returned to Loren^ Marques, and on the 24th I
embarked on my return to ]\Iozambique, where I arrived on the 2nd
February.
In summing np the general resnlts of my observations, the first
point to which I may call attention is the rapid extension of British
interests in the district and their growingly permanent nature. Hitherto
they have been only commercial and transitory ; the first, owing to the
influx of British goods for the Transvaal through Delagoa Bay; the
second, due to the passage of British subjects— diggers, storekeepers,
speculators, and the like— flocking to the mining districts of the
Transvaal.
Nothing, indeed, is more cnrious than the manner in which this
I
JOaRNETS IN THE DISTRICT OF DELAGOA BAT. 501
district is becoming Anglicised. It is the first point at which actual
contact has taken place between the British and Portuguese in South
Africa, and it will be interesting to see how the inert life of the latter —
which has confined them for more than three centuries to the shores of
the bay — will resist or adapt itself to the push and vigour that charac-
terises the former.
This AnglicisiDg process is being carried on on all sides, and even
by others than Englishmen. From the immediate neighbourhood of the
town of Loren9o Marques and onwards towards the Transvaal— upon
both routes— you find Englishmen and their dependents establishing
themselves. Upon the eastern slopes of the Lobombos, a little south of the
IJmbelosi and therefore in Portuguese territory, there is a small English
colony arising, partly giving itself to cattle-raising, but chiefly bent upon
securing the trade of the Swazi oountry, to which Delagoa Bay is the
readiest inlet. Here English enterprise has strikingly asserted itself.
Upon this, the old route to the Transvaal, there was one short stage of
low country between the Lobombos and the Temby , of the unhealthiness
of which the Boer transport riders were always afraid. To sa«e upon
that link in the line of communication was the work of a small group of
Englishmen, who seem now to have fairly possessed themselves of it^
and reap good profits by a charge of 6$. per owt. for goods they carry
over it and deliver to the Boers on the high veldt. Storehouses are-
no w being planned at both ends of this stage, on the Lobombo and at
the Temby drift, so that goods may be properly housed and protected
whilst waiting for waggon transport.
The only steamer regularly plying upon the Temby river is the
property of a Scotchman, settled on the Lobombos, and the steamship
Somtseu, of the African Boating Company, was making the first trip-
of what it was hoped would become a regular service, when I left
Delagoa Bay. On the Incomati route also, on the only three habitable^
spots, in a country almost deficient in water. Englishmen have planted
themselves.
But it is the strong, eager rush for gold that promises to draw over
the inner frontier into Portuguese territory, the largest number of a
class made up in South Africa almost entirely of men of the Anglo*
Saxon race. Pioneering prospectors from Barberton are stretching away
far from the banks of the Kaap river, and are already thick in the
Incomati valley. Both north and south of that river prospecting goes
on actively upon the Lobombo range, and many claims have already
been registered in the Secretariate of the Government of Lorenzo
Marques to gold-bearing reefs upon the eastern slopes of those hills.
Perhaps the most promising of the mineral claims lately registered is
one to a deposit of coal near the Umbelosi river, and within 14 miles of
carriage by water — ^by that river and the Temby — to Delagoa Bay.
If it prove to be of good quality, and the specimens brought down are
2 0 2
502 JOURNEVS IN THE DISTRICT OF DELAGOA BAY. |
very favourably reported on, this coal-field will be exceptionally well
placed for competing with Natal coal| wkich lies 200 miles from the
coast at Newcastle,
Afi to the probable rush of gold prospectors into Portuguese territory,
the experience already gained appears to show that the richest gold-
bearing strata extend north-east and east-north-eastward from the
mining centres about the Eaap river, and parties arej I hear, now
preparing at Barberton to prospect the Gaza, Manica, and Mashona
countries in the coming cool season.
It is when really payable reefs are found in these countries (reported
the richest of South Africa in gold), and companies are being formed
to work them, that the question of Portuguese sovereignty will be first
seriously raised, and the true relations of the Colonial authorities with
such powerful chiefs as Gungunhana of the Gaza country be really
tested*
I should like to point out here that the independence guaranteed the
Swazi king by the Convention of the 3rd August, 1881, and upheld
ohioBy through the iniuence of the British Government, has done some-
thing towards weakening, if not dismissing, the fears of the sun'oiiuding
native chiefs to gold prospecting in their territories- They have seen
Swazi-Iand almost overrun with English preapectona, and seen also that
the invasion is a purely peaceful one> and that their rights have been
rigidly respected. For every grazing license given, or gold concession
made, the king has been well paid. Every " claim ** marked out has
brought him 50/., and on more than one occasion, upon a company l»eing
formed to work a claim, and machinerj^ being set up, 3000L in hard cash
were paid for the concession.
I do not say this state of things is free from future evil, or does not
threaten danger to Swazi independence, but those dangers are not yet
apparent to surrounding chiefs, who only see the immediate wealth and
strength that accrues to that country from the discovery of gold, and
influx of whites there. Much will depend npon tbe manner in %vhich
the first prospecting parties are received by such chiefs as Gungunhana-
If their reception be favourable^ then certainly something like a rush
wUl follow, and some serious questions as to territorial sovereignty
will arise, and have to be placed upon a leas vague and undefined footing
than they are at present*
The natives themselves form one of the chief channels for the spread
•of English influences throughout this district. For more than ten
years past there has been an unceasing circulation of blacks between
the district of Delagoa Bay — and to a smaUor extent that of Inhambane
— and our Soutli African Colonies, and the great centres of industry,
such as Port Elizabeth, Durban, and Kimberley, are well known to
members of everj- native family. Every young black who wishes to
acquire a Ettle^wealth at once starts off for one of them, and so great is
JOURKEYS IN THE DISTRICT OF DELAGOA BAT.
tlie confidence now felt that they wait for no eraigration agent, but
often travel singly or in couples overland or by the mail-eteamer,
returning with well4iDed pockets in two or throe years.
Struck by the uncultiTated appearance of the countr}^ and the com-
paratively large trade done in it, I &aid once to a trader, " Where are
the exports or produce by which all these imports are to be paid?"
** The produce of this district/* he replied, " is English gold; tho native
pays for everything here in hard cash." And this is strictly trao ; tho
natural produce of the district is almost nt7 ; its wealth coneists in the
savings of the natives from their earuings in one of our South African
Colonies.
Thus, Eogliah money has become the currency of the country* It
is not too much to say that Portuguese money is unknown outside the
public offices- Even there it has been found necessary at times to use
Englieh coin. An amusing story is told, how when the Public Works
Department attempted to pay the Kaffirs employed on the railway
works in PoTtuguese silver, they refused in a body to accept it, saying
"This no money/* and would not work tintil they had received tho
British shilling, A knowledge of the English language, or rather a
miserable corruption of it» is also by no means uncommon amongst the
natives of this district- It is by all these means that the Anglicising
process I spoke of above is being gradually worked out,
I have BOW to say a few words upon the railway works. At the
present rate of progress there can be no doubt the railway to Barberton
will tiike years to construct, if, indeed, it would ever be completed* It
is not easy to believe that the effort being made is a serious one, and one
is inclined rather to think that tbe intention is only to spur the flagging
energies of those who are striving to form a company to undertake its
construction, and perhaps to check the Transvaal Government from en-
couraging any rival schemes.
The work was commenced last June, and though 9 kilometres are
said to be ready for the laying down of sleepers and rails, there is much
work to be done yet upon the first two miles.
The line commences at the harbour jetty in Lorenzo Marques, and
nxns across the swampy tract which divides the town from the hill,
keeping a course so close to the river's bank that at every spring tide
the waves wash up to within a couple of feet of the level of the rails*
Consequently, the destructive action of the sea upon this portion of the
embankment has already necessitated a strengthening, almost a recon-
struction, of the original work. As far m the tidal wash acts upon it,
it is now being faced with a wall of solid masonrj^ about 7 feet thick at
the base and 3 feet at the top, made of a hard red sandstone, dug out
from Eeu ben's Point and carried up the river in lighters. W^hen this is
completed the first part of tho work will be, I think, tolerably secure.
The advance working parties are cleariog and levelling at a distance
■
604
JO0RNEYS IN THE ^ISTBICT OP DELAGOA BAT.
of 9 kilometres from the town, but lliore again the work is verj slow-
paced , the fltaff small, imd lal>ourer6 few in number. No rfiila for the
permanent way, sleepers, or plant of any kind has yot arrived for the
line. A bad sign, too, was the uncertain uneasy ring in the tone of all
residents, officials as well as foreign ers, whom I spoke to about the
prospects of the work. All declared that nnless a great change was
made in the rate of progress and in the expenditure allowed, its ultimate
constniction was very doubtfiih I believe I am correct in saying that
C oontos per month, or about 1330^, is the outside limit allowed at present
to the Public Works Department for this work.
The recent action of Katal in reducing her tariff has UBdoubtedly
struck a heavy blow at the trade of Delagoa Bay. Cargo consigned to
forwarding agenls at that part is now being stopped and landed at Natal
for tmnamisBion vi^ that colony to the Transvaal,
In concluding these remarks upon tho state of the district of
Delagoa Ba3% I should not omit to point out the improvomentB that
have Ijoen made in the town of Lorenzo Mariifues by the Public Works
Department of the province. Most of the public buildings of the place
aro new» and have been erected within the past five years* Chief
amongst them are the oustom-house, oflSces of the local government,
treasury boards and poet-office, and a fine magazine outside the to%vii
for the storage of powder, which is landed hero in large quantities for
the purposes of trade. Upon the hill overlooking tha town is a large
hospital and a handsome church.
A work of great utility to shipping is proposed in the extension of
the present landing-wharf or pier to such a length that steamers shall
bo able to go alongside it to discharge. A Natal firm is prepared to
carry this work out if it can secure a monopoly of the landing charges,
and has made a proposal to the Lisbon Government to this effect.
Fairly successful efforts have at last been made to drain the swamp
Burrounding tho town, to which ita unhealthiness is generally attri-
buted, and hundreds of eucalypti have been raised upon it» which are
already 12 and 15 feet high, whilst thousands more are being planted.
Thick groves of bananas in the swampy flat also relieve its former bare
and neglected appearance.
These last-named improvements are mostly due to the efforts of the
residents in the town, who have formed a '* Botanical Sooiety '* amongst
themselves, and are laying out a really respectable garden upon the
slope of the hilL
• If the municipal authorities of the place properly seconded the
efforts of the private residents and the Public Works Department, and
the streets of the town were properly cleaned and paved and lighted,
there would be even less justice than there is now in the complaints of
the ** misery and desolation of the town of Lorenro Marques'* to which
the English South African press periodically ti-eats us.
. ( 505 . ) • '
Exjpedition of Mr. George P. James from the Ohanehamayo in Peru
to the Atlantic*
Me. George P. James, who has a sugar estate on the banks of the^
Chanchamayo river, undertook a joumej to explore the region between
that position and the Ferene. His estate is near the village of La
Merced on the Chanchamayo. He set out on the 17th of July, 1886,
accompanied by an Italian named Bogo, who oould speak the language
of the Chunchos, and was reputed to have a certain influence over thenu
But both these qualifications appear to* have been much exaggerated.
Mr. James resolved to follow up the tight bank of the Faucartambb, imd
thence to reach the famous Cetro de la Sal.
In the hamlet of San Luis, which is situated on the Cerro de la Sal«
they found a missionary named Sala. The good Father arranged that
the travellers should be accompanied by a lay brother, who turned out
to be an energetic and courageous comrade. The party took leave of
the good Father, and set out in the direction of Falcazu, that is io say,
they entered an unknown tract of ooufatry.
James was armed, with a repeating rifle, a revolver, and a well*
sharpened wood-knife (macheie). Bogo was also well armed, and the
lay brother was provided with a machete, an indispensable companion
in that forest region. They pushed valiantly on, slipping through the
dense undergrowth, or opening a way with their wood-knives, the
compass being their only guide. At length they came in sight of the
river Falcazu, which had been described to them as navigable. This,
unfortunately, was not the case, at least in the dry season, and it was
necessary for them to march along its right bank, following the coarse
of the stream, and wading across the small tributaries, during three
days, when they reached a point where the riVer was really navigable
in balsas.
Between the Faucartambo and the Falcaeu they only met with one
river of little volume, which they easily cross^ It is one of the
tributaries of the Ferene.
At the point where the Falcazu became navigable, as well as at
other places along the banks, they came upon habitations of wild
Indians. These people appeared to be hostile at first, but as soon as
they saw the cordiality with which the Englishman and the Italian
drank their masato, and took part in their dances and noisy amusements,
they forgot their suspicions and treated the strangers as old friends.
When the drinking bout was over the chief of these Indians was Vexy
useful, and it was due to him that they procured three small balsas, one
for each traveller, and an Indian in each to guide them. They embarked-
in the morning, taking care to ^ten all their traps to the poles of
* Communicated by Mr. G. XL Markham, c.b., f.b.8., Secretary. Prom SI Comardof
de Lima, 3rd May, 1887.
506
EXPEDITION OF MR. GEORGE P, JAMES
the balaae, and at al>out noon, being carried down by tlie rapid ctureni,
they reached Chincheros, a place situated at the point where the river
of the same name falls into the Palcazii. This station appeared to have
commercial relations with Huancabamba.
Proceeding on the voyage, the navigators stopped at a hut for tha
night, and during the hours of sleep the three Indians escaped in one
of the balsas and were not heard of again ^ but they did Bot take any-
thing. This accident caused them to lose all the next day, for the
Indian who owned ^the hut refused to go with them. At length he
yielded to their promises. They made one balsa out of the two wMch
the fugitive Indians had left, and embarked once more.
After two hours the Indian, either by accident or design, lost hia
paddle and, on the pretext of making another^ be went into the forest
and also disappeared* There was nothing left for the three adventurers
but to continue the voyage alone, and this they determined to do.
Kothing occurred during the following day* The current took them
down the river with moderate speed, and no natives were Been on ita
banks. In the evening they selected a beach on which to pass the
night, continuing the voyage on the following day. But at ten o'clock
in the forenoon the balsa struck upon a rock and capsized. "When Mr.
James came to the surface the lay brother was already on tho capsized
balsa, and Bogo was swimming with one hand on it. Mr. James
soon reached it also. Half an hour afterwards, swimming down the
river with tho help of tho balsa, they succeeded in beaching her just at
the point where the river La gar to falls into tho Palcazu.
Tho things which were on the balsa had all been well secured, and
with the exception of Mr, Jamea*s boots nothing was lost in the ship-
wreck. The afternoon and night were passed without food, but next
morning an Indian came to their help, lighted a fire, and enabled them
to appease their hunger with boiled yucae. Having dried their clothes,
refreshed themselves, and righted tho balsa, they continued the descent
of the river, and arrived next day at the junction of the Pichis with
the Palcazu, when tho united stream is called the Pachitea. Here they
had the pleasure of meeting the Peruvian indiarubber collector Davila,
who was on a voyage with a small supply of that product, and con-
ducted them to a place called Santa Isabclj the residence of a German
indiarubber merchant.
They remained at Santti Isabel for a whole week, waiting for another
iudiarubber collector. At length he arrived, aocompanied by two
monks who said they were going to the Puzuzu, though it afterwards
turned out that they were on their way to the Pichis. The lay broiher
joined them, so that Mr. James was left with the Italian Bogo as his
sole companion. They made the voyage down the Pachitea in a canoe,
guided by the indiarubber merchant. It was prospcroiLS down the
whole course of that great river, but on arriving near its junction with
FROM THE CHANCHAMATD IN PERU TO THE ATLANTIC.
507
ilie TToftyaliy owing to having started before dawn^ tho canoe struck
Tipon the trunk of a tree half coTered by water and capsized. This
time the travellera lost everythiog they had with them.
The position where this accident befel them was a mile above the
confluence of the Pachitea with the Ucayali. The canoe was not stove
in, so that they were able to right her again and to reach a place where
they fell in with the small steamer Matfo^ which took them down to
Iqiiitofi. After a forced residence of five weeks at Iquitos, Mr. James
continued his voyage to Para ; proceeding thence to Barbadoes and
Trinidad, he returned to Peru by way of Panama. On May 7th, 1887^
he left Lima on his way back to his estate on tbe Chanchamayo,
During the whole of his journey Mr. James only saw two snakes,
and one puma, which walked past his camp at night without doing any
harm. Mr. James has thrown light on the geography of a part of the
fores tHXJvered montana of Eastern Peru which was previously unknown.
The practical results of his voyage are not without interest. I'he
Palcazti is not really a navigable river, but the Pichis is suited for
navigation. The latter river is therefore the point to which attention
fihonld be turned by those who desire to open a practicable route from
the central regions of Peru to the Ucayali. At present 5000 men from
Tarapoto, machete in hand, are occupied in felling the caoutchouc trees
on the hills overlooking the Pichis. The caticho (Castilloa?) indiarubber
tree is felled, while the Jeve (Hevea or Siphonia ?) is merely cut across
the bark of the trunk, to obtain the caoutchouc juice. Hence the
mischief that is being done by these .5000 men from Tarapoto is con-
siderable, although the caucho trees increase and multiply with com-
parative rapidity. Another army of depredators comes up the Ucayali,
and another np the Yavari, for the exclusive benefit of Brazilian trade.
Mr. James does not think that it would be of immediate utility to
open a road from Chanchamayo to the Pichis, because, by the time it
was finished the 5000 cuucJieros would have completed the work of
destruction. It would be useless to open such a road for purposes of
exportation so long as a heavier freight is paid for goods from Iquitos
to Par^ than from Callao to Europe. As regards the export of timber
on a large scale, there already exists a North American colony at
Santarem occupied entirely in the timber trade.
In Mr* James's view the most useful measure, as regards the
Peruvian forest region, which is very fertile and enjoys a healthy and
agreeable climate, would be its colonisation. When that is effected the
construction of good routcB to the Ucayali will become necessary.
Mr. James is an enthusiastic traveller, and is willing to take part in
any other exploring expedition which may be undertaken by the
Peruvian Government.
( 508 )
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
Expedition to the Highlandi of New Gainea, — The expedition under
preparation at Melbourne for the exploration of the Owon Stanley range*
to which onr President alluded in his recent Anniversary Address,*
is to bo plaaed under the command of Mr. Cuthbertsoii ; the Council of
the Geographical Society of Yictoria, who havo the management of the
expedition, being in doubt whether the Rev. J. Chalmers's other engage-
ments would admit of his undertafciDg the journey during the present
year. Mr. Cuthbertson has had considerable experience as a surveyor
in New Guinea and North Borneo, and is acquainted with the Malay
language and some of the dialects of New Guinea. The objects of the
expedition are to be purely Boientific, the chief aim being to ascertain
the nature of the elevated land of the interior, A naturalist (Mr. Sayer)
will be attached to the exploring party, and the Government of
Victoria have granted 1000/. to defray the expenaes.-^lt is reported that
Mr. H- O. Forbes is about to undertake, under the direction of the Special
CominisBioner of New Guinea, a journey overland direct from Hood Bay
to Dyke Acland Bay, crossing the lower elevations to the south-east of
Mount Owen Stanley.
CMneie Turkistan. — A correspondent of the Geographical Society
of Paris has transmitted to that Society an extract of a letter from
M. Bonvalot giving a brief account of the importani work accomplished
by Captain Gromhcliefski in Chinese Turkistan. This Russian oflRcer
was charged in the year 1885 with a mission to determine the frontier
line of Ferghana on the borders of Chinese Kashgaria aa far as the
Euseian fortress of Irketchtam, In the course of his mission the traveller
explored the whole region of Kashgaria. He has executed surveys of the
routes followed by him, viz, those leading from Kaabgar to Ladak, and
from Ferghana to the northern border of Kashmir by the Pamir plateau.
The detailed account of his journeys, of which only a limited number of
copies have heen published, contains important information on the
military forces of China in that region, and also on the commerce and
natural wealth of Kashgaria. Captain Grombchefski encountered
great difficulties, chiefly owing to the hostile attitude of the Chinese,
Throughout the whole of his journey he experienced heavy rains which
rendered the ordinary routes impracticable. He arrived at K ash gar on
the day on which a mutiny had broken out among the Chinese soldiers,
and it was only by a miracle that he escaped with his life,
Few Enasian Expedition into Central Asia.— An important expedi-
tion started in May last from Irkutsk for the purpose of exploring the
Sayan Mountains, Lake Kosaogol, and the sources of the Yenisei,
Colonel Bolyr is in command, and the party includes eeyeral topo-
* • Proceedinga R.G.S.; anU^ p. 344.
GEOGBAPHICAL KOTES*
509
grapliere and an astronomer. M- Mal^eroff, the gBologist and natnralist,
lias charge of tho geological part of the work* Important results to
the cartography of this region are expected from tho expedition.
MM* Capns and Bonvalot. — These conrageous travellers have snc-
coeded in their hazardous enterprise of crossing the Pamir and Hindu
Knali into British India. 3M, Bonvalot wrote to us from Chitral on
May 28thj stating that his party had arrived there nearly destitute
of resources and were threatened to be turned back on tho ground
that they were Russians. The Indian Govemmont has since inter-
vened to extricate them from their difficult position. It will bo re-
membered that, according to the last news * recorded by us, they were
on the eve of departure from Margbilan, intendiag to reach British
India across the plateau of the Pamir, Since then the news received in
Europe has been of a fragmentary description. It appears they left
Marghilan about the beginning of March, and travelling westwards to
I'sh entered the Alai Pass, which M. Bonvalot had by a march in
advance found to be practicable* On the 15th March they were in
camp at Ak-Baaoga at the foot of the defile of Taldyk and four days*
march from Lake Kara-kul. Since then nothing had been heard of
them until the news of their arrival at ChitraL It is evident that they
were compelled to diverge from the route originally laid down, which
after leaving Lake Kara-kul lay south-south-east to Kundjut, whereas
that actually followed was to tho south-west.
The Freneh Expeditions in the interior of Senegal. — A preliminary
sketch of fiomo of the results of these expeditions, to which wo recently
referred^f has been sent to the Geographical Society of Paris by Lieut-
Colonel Gallieni, the governor of the French Possessions of the Senegal.
Tho operations of the two military columns, which proceeded against
the marabout Mahmadu Lamino at Diana, resulted in tho ignominious
flight of the latter. Tho topographical work of these detachments
includes surveys of the valley of the Nieriko, the upper Gambia and tho
hitherto unexplored parts of tho Tale mo. Two special missions of
officers had quitted Diana, on© had surveyed the country between the
Faleme and the Tankisso, the other, under Captain Oberdorf, had crossed
the Gambia at Badu, and the Faleme at Erimana, and had penetrated
to Dinguiray, which had never before been visited by a European. Tho
whole region had been placed under the protectorate of France. The
TJassulu mission had succeeded in concluding a most advantageous
treaty with Almany Samory, by which the Kiger and tho Tankisso
from their sources conatituto tho boundary between the French Sudan
and the dominions of Samory, who, furthermore, has agreed to place all
his possessions on the right bank of the river under French protection.
The country, therefore, now under the protectorate of Franco, extends
• ' FruoeedingH B.G^./* anU^ j\. mi. • Ibid, p. 240.
610
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
on the TJglit ^bank of the Niger from Segu to Sierra Leon© and the
Eepiiblic of Liberia, th\is including the whole of Fnta-Djallon.
Eegion of the Upper Higer. — Dr. G. A. KrauBe, to whose journeys
on the Volt a river we have had occasion to refer, ^ has "ftdthin the
last year accomplished an important jonrnej in the unknown country
lying in the groat bend of the Niger. Although unsuccessful in
carrying out bis original intention of reacliiug Timbuktu from Salaga,
he has nevertheless achieved a great success, having traversed regions
unknown before and peneti-ated to within 156 miles of Tim^buktu. We
have received two letters from the traveller, one dated October 23rd»
1886j the other 27th Apiil, giving a brief outline of his route. He
hegius by stating that he left Berlin on hia present journey on the
2lBt March, 188G, aniviug at Accra on the Gold Coast on the 22nd
April, and leaving that place for the interior on the 1 2th May. From
Salaga he proceeded to Wogbodogho (Waga-Dugu), the chief town of
tb© Mofii country, and travelling northwards through the provinces of
Tema and Yadega, arrived at Ban, the first point within the kingdom
of the Sheik Tidjani, one of the sons of El-Hiidj Omar, who for a long
time caused the French so much trouble in Senegal. On 15tb November
he reached the largo town of Duensa, the centre of the salt trade, whence
he made an excursion across a high plateau to the south-west for a
distance of 75 miles to Ban*Djagara, the seat of Tidjiini, in order to got
permisaion to continue his journey northwards. Armed with the
neceflsar}' authority, he returned to Duensa and set out for Timbuktu on
the 7 th December, under the protection of the chief. On the following
day, however, he received a command to return to Mosi, The farthest
point reached was 23 miles nortb-north-eafit of Duensaj abtiut 1| days'
march westward of the village of Bone, indicated on Baiili's itinerary.
From the first the conduct of the cbief towards him was equivocal.
He could have continued hm journey to Timbuktu at the price of
apostasy. The country between Salaga and Musi is a plain watered by
many streams belonging to the Y olta system and clothed with scattered
trees. Between Mosi and Duensa there were no rivers, only depreBSions
which are filled with water in the rainy season ; and he was unable to
find the sources of the Eastern Yolta. Eetracing his steps to Mosi, he
set out from Woghodogho on 22nd January on an excursion south and
south-west to Sinaani Gasiiri, which he calls the greatest den of thiev-es
in the world. Thence by way of Fujishi, Wa, and Bole he marched to
Kintimfj in Ashantee, first visited by Captain Kirby in 1884, crossing
on his route a western arm of the Volta, He eventually returned down
the Volta to Salaga, where he arrived at the end of April, having
exhausted all his stock of goods. He had accomplished all his explora-
tion with the most limited resources, having had on landing on the
» See •Pioceediaga R.Q.8.,* 188C, p. 722.
CmOGRAPmCAL MOTES. 511
Oold Coast only a little over 5Z., as sole means for the long journey to
Salaga. Unable, from lack of means, to further pursue his travels, he
was about to return to Europe, which he hoped to reach about
September. He intended to return to the coast by a new route, marching
for twelve days eastward to Soguede, and then south to the coast.
Throughout his travels Dr. Krause had excellent health.
The Coast Begion of South-Westem Africa. — ^The current number
of Petermann's ' Mittellungen ' contains a map of the Lower Euisip
valley, in the Walfish Bay region, embodying the surveys and explora-
tions made by Dr. F. M. Stapfif in the course of a complete exploration
of the country executed from December 1885 to May 1886. The
traveller also contributes a paper dealing in detail with the geology
and physical features of the district, which forms a contribution
well worthy to rank with the admirable observations of Mr. Francis
Galton in the same region, thirty-seven years ago. "Great Nama
Land," as Dr. Stapff terms the country, may be divided, he says, as
regards its natural formation into three parts, (1) the stony desert or
Namieb in the north, (2) the valley of the Euisip, and (3) the sandy
dunes in the south. The Namieb is an extensive plain, rising with an
almost imperceptible ascent from the sea until, at about 60 miles from
Walfish Bay, the traveller finds himself at an elevation of nearly
2000 feet above the sea-level. The plain is broken by mountains,
isolated or in small groups, whose dark crags contrast sharply with the
grey-yellow plain. Not a tree or bush interrupts the prospect of limit-
less desert. These apparently isolated mountains, however, belong to
chains running north-east to south-west. The rounding-oflf and per-
foration of the clifiGs is due to the wind-driven sand. The rain-water
collects in pools or " vleys," and evaporating, leaves increasing deposits
of salt and sand. In these and in the sandy river-beds grow deep-rooted
trees. Other vegetation springs up rapidly after the rains, but soon
withers. The prevailing wind is south-west, but from May to July it
frequently blows from the north-east. The dunes between the Namieb
and the sea-coast form a belt of sandy desert, which between the Orange
river and^the Kuisip is 100 miles broad. Dr. Stapff does not support
the theory that these dunes have been formed by the sand blown inland
by the south-west wind. He regards them as upheaved sea-banks,
which have been moulded to their present form by the action of the
wind. In the heart of the sandy desert he frequently found odd
fragments of polished and perforated sea-shells, even at a height of
1000 feet above the sea-level, which may, however, have been carried
thither by the sea wind. The banks of shell-fish along the route from
Riet to Fredriksdam |and round Walfish Bay clearly point to an up-
heaval of the land in ancient times, which probably extended to the
whole of the^South-west African coast. As regards the river valley,
there is good reason for supposing that the course of the Kuisip
512
GEOGKAFHICAL NOTES.
formerly ran more to the n<)rtli-oast, and that on its left the Bfiiidj
dunes have oneroacbed upon the river. This ia no donbt to l3€ explained
hy its small volume of water. Hahn's theory of an arm of the river
formerly running through the dunes to Sandfi«h Bay is, according to
the writer, nn tenable. The dying away of tree vegetation in the river
valley appears to point to a diminished flow of water. Many ancient or
partly withered ebony, wild fif^^ and other trees are to be seen, but no
new wood. After the heavy rains the river in its lower and broader
reaches overflows and bears away in its yellow flood tree-trunks and
the htita of the Hottentotis. Tbo overflowing water quickly percolates
the eandy dnnes. The writer gives much interesting information as
to the level of this water underground, which could be utilised for
cultivation, aa in the Algerian " chotts,"
Meteorology ia the Argentiue Eepublic— The Government of the
province of Cordova, acting on the initiative of Professor 0. Doering,
has grantc^i the necessary funds for the eatabliahment of a network of
meteorological Btations over the province. It is proposed to erect nearly
forty stations. Professor Doering» who has made many valuable con-
tributions to our knowledge of the meteorology of the Argentine
Kopublic, has been appointed head of the service, and the private
station erected and fitted up by him will form for the present the
central post. Pending the arrival of the requisite instruments from
Germany, obaervations will not be commenced until February next.
The east and extreme south of the province have hitherto remained
unknown because of the lack of qualified observers in these thinly
peopled districts. The scientific value of this undertaking is enhanced
by the great diversity of the positions of the stations, e. g. pampas,
•wooded plains, mountains, and salt lakes, and in their elevation,
©, g, that of Tortugas at a height of only 24U feet, whereas Champagui
peak is 9425 feet. In any case this series of meteorological stations will
bo the most complete and important system in South America, and the
practical results cannot fail to be of great service to geographers in
studying the climate of the country,
Patagonia. — The results of a journey made in Patagonia by Lieu-
tenant A. del Castillo have been csommunicated to Potermann's *]Mitteil-
ungen ' fNo. 7). The object of the traveller was to explore thoroughly
the stretch of country lying between the rivers Gallegos and Santa
Cruz, and to survey the harbours on the Pacific coast mentioned by
Captain Moyano on his last expedition. The journey, which was begun
early in January last, was undertaken at the exponse of the traveller
and of a few private individuals* The following are some of the chief
results of the expedition. A navigable waterway was found to exist
between the two oceans along the Santa Cruz and canals connected
therewith, In these southern districts the line of highest
;
Ls connectea ^m
i&t elevation ^^|
_1
REPORT OF THE JsvjuiiNO IfSEnKOS^ S18
pTesents some remarkable onrree, as the Oordilleras are broken by
different canals. The barbonrs of the Gallegos pampas were ascertained
to be deep, spacious, atid completely sheltered; the zone of pampas
lying to the east of these harboniB is consequently inhabitable dnring
the winter, and well suited for cattle. There are beds of sea-coal of
incalculable value covering a belt of 20 nautical miles. The traveller
ascended the Gallegos in an improvised oanoe up to its source, and
concludes that the river is | navigable without difficulty at certain
seasons of the year. The course of this river was carefully determined.
He ascertained that the Bio Turbio, a northern affluent of the Gallegos,
rises in a ravine formed by the Latoire and Coronel Bamirez 'chains
lying to the south-east of the valley of the Guerrioo. He is of opinion
that the Grallegos could be connected by canals with the harbours of the
west coast at a comparatively small cost.
REPOET OP THE EVENING MEETINGS, SESSION 1886-7.
Fourteenth Meeting, 27<% June^ 1887. — General B. Strachet, B.E.,
President, in the Chair.
Electiokb. — Alfred Edward Ann^ Esq. ; Lieut, Arthur Ooj^va^ B.K.B. ; Affleok
FraseTy Esq, ; Wm, Henry KnigJU^ Esq. ; Colonel Edxvard Peniberton Leach^ v.c,
CD., B.E. ; James E, Mason, Esq,, O.M.G. ; Wm. George Motley, Esq, ; John Lambe
Higden, Esq, ; Oeorge Simpson, Esq,; Benjamin Taylor, Esq,
The Jubilee Addbess to the Queek.
The President annoonced that an Address to Her Majesty the Queen, on the
occasion of completing the fiftieth year of her reign, had been prepared on behalf of
the Gonncil and the Society and had been forwarded to the Home Secretary for
presentation. The Secretary, Mr. Douglas Freshfield, read the Address to the
meeting (vide * Proceedings,' July No., p. 438).
The papers read were : —
(1) ** Preliminary account of his Mission to the Namuli Hills, East Africa." By
J. T. Last, Esq., conunanding the Society's Expedition to South-east Africa. Ante,
p. 467.
(2) " Journey through Yemen." By Major-General F. T. Haig. Ante, p. 479.
PBOCEEDINGS OP FOBEIGN SOCIETIES.
Oeographical Society of Fari8.--June 3rd, 1887 : M. Janksek, of the
Institute, in the chair. — Among the works presented was a translation of a report
Avhich the author, M. Jules Popper, had read before the Argentine Geographical
Institute on the expedition made under his direction in Tierra del Fnega The
paper was accompanied by a series of 43 photographic views. The following
information concerning the progress of geography in Russia was communicated by
Bli
PROCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIEa
M, Yenukoff i— The works for the enlarge men t of the canal between the basias of
the Obi and Yenisei had been commenced after the breakiog up of the ice in the
rivers. A aom of 24,000?. bad been pkced &t the disposal of the eDgineera. The
Sayan MonntainB, the sources of the YeniBei, Lake Kossogol and ita vicioity, would
be explored thia summer by Colonel Bolyr, who would have under hia orders several
topographers. A naturalist, M, Makeroff, was attached to the expedition. The
observ^ations necessary for determining the coefficient of desiccation of the lakes of
Central Asia would be commenced this year under the auspices of the Geographical
8ociety of Russia. M. Potanin had given before the same Society the details
gathered by him regarding the inhabitants of Amdo^ in the north-west of China.
The populatioD amounta to 100,000, for the roost part Buddhists. M, Prejevalsky
gave Iheni the name of Dalde, but M. PotanLn that of Cbirandole; they are the
Si- fans of the Chinese authors. — On the 3rd MaTcb the Emperor of Russia made hia
annual inspection of the topographical, bydrographical, and geodetical works executed
in the Russian Empire during the year 1886. Among the most interestiog, geog«u
phically, were the topographical surveys of the region separating Russia and Bokhara
from Afghanistan, and the exploralioiis made in the eastern part of Bokhara by
MM, Schwartz, Kndneffj and others. The geography of the country watered by
tlie sources of the Amn-Daria was at last established u|x)n solid astronomical and
topographical bases, M. Gram-Grjimailo would continue this year his zoological
aad botanical studies in the region of the Pamir, MM, Bunge and Toll had com-
menc&d the publication of the results of their recent journey in the Kew Siberian
Archipelago, — Several notes on different subjects were sent by M, R, du Caillaud,
including one on the department of Lim-Chau, — A letter, dated 3rd May, from Raa
Sabun (Sabani) was read from M. Tuisserenc de Bort, giving some account of his
work and stating that he bad not been able to penetrate into the interior. The
letter haviog been read, the Chairman aDUounced that the author had just returned
home from this his third journey in the Algerian Sahara. His travek, he said, had
resulted in the preparation of a magnetic map of country, which would prove a
valuable contribution to our knowledge of North Africa. -^M, Lagrange explained to
the meeting the mechanism of the ** Cosmographe," an apparatus of which be is the
inventor.— Some historical notes on the island of Soootra were read by Baron d'Avril.
— In conclusion^ M. Edmond Ponel ijave an account of liis travels in the C^ngo
basin and along some of the northern affluents of that great river. In August 1884
he was attached to the French West African Misaion, He mads a reconnaissance
of the river N'Kheni during August and September 1885, where he established the
station of Fua-KUche-N*tche. In the following November be was appointed to the
station of N'Eundjia, on the left bank of the Mobangi, which he ascended to a f>oint
2** north of the Equator. During a sojoum of two and a half years in the midst of the
savage tribes of the interior, M. Ponel made numerous observations. The domestic
life of the Ba-Bangi wns vividly depicted to the meeting. The feast of the rains,
the return of the canoes, the complicated style of hair- dressing, and the barbarous
ceremonies accompanying the death of the chiefs were successively tiescribed. He
also gave much information of commercial interest.
June 17th, 1887 ; M. Jakssen in the chair. — M. G. Rolland, mining
engineer, forwarded a copy of his recent communication to the Academy of
Sciences on the " Regime dea eaux artesiennes do TOued Rir.*' In this note he
gives some new information regarding the artesian basin of the Oued Rir, and
expresses his belief thiit notwithstanding the sounding operations which have
been going on for the last thirty years, the limit of the supply of !?pring water is
still far from being reached. — A communication was presented by M. A. Woeikoflf
on the total eclipsse of the sun on the 19 th August next and the best means of
PROCKEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOGUCTIES. 816*^
obeerying it.— M. G. Marcel, of the Geographical Section of the National Library,
addressed a letter to the Society with reference to the ancient geographical documents
existing in the Tarious libraries of Paris, together with a list of the same. — An
extract from a letter of M. Bonvalot relating to the work of Colonel Grombchefski
in Kasbgaria, was sent by M. Maillet. — ^A letter was read from Lieut.-Golonel
Gallicni, chief-in-command of the French Sudan, giving an account of his work down
to April last. — ^M. H. Duveyrier forwarded the translation of a letter received from
M. G. A. Krause on his travels in the neighbourhood of Salaga. — A communication
which had been addressed by Dr. Emile Hassler to M. £. Wenz, was sent by the
latter to the Society. The author gives an account of several interviews which he
had with M. de Brettes at Asimcion. M. de Brettes and his companion M. Boiviers,
a hydrographer, started in July last from Buenos Ayres on a mission to Gran Chaoa
The Argentine Government had promised them a military escort, but on arrival at
Villa Formosa, the Governor, Colonel Fotheringham, made excuses for not affording
them the assistance promised. They proceeded therefore to Corrientes and made a
two months' excursion up the Parana and the Paraguay as far as Asuncion, in the
course of which they took numerous astronomical observations and corrected the
hydrographical map of these two rivers. They had now determined to accomplish
their mission, relying on their own resources alone, and intended to reach Tarifa with
an escort of Indians. — ^The Chairman intimated that M. Morisot, who had accompanied
M. Cbafianjon on his recent expedition up the Orinoco, was present at the meeting.
He afterwards announced that Dr. Hamy was also present, having returned from his
important travels in Tunis in company with M. Errington de la Croix. The object
of this mission was to ascertain the exact nature and geographical distribution of
the native monuments, known in Tunis as " dolmens." After visiting the Djcbel
Debbeb chain, Sahel, and Enfida, with this object, the expedition terminated with an
exploration of the peak of Cherichera. — ^The General Secretary called attention to
two beautiful collections of photographic views, one relating to South Algeria, the
other to the Orinoco. — ^M. Yirlct d'Aoust laid on the table a memoir for publication
in the Bulletin, entitled ''Notes historiques concemant Taction de Thuile sur les
vagues de la mer," and added a few verbal explanations on the subject — ^A paper
was then read by M. de Rochemonteix on the results of the census of the population
of Egypt The paper was principally occupied with the consideration of the native
inhabitants and their history. — ^In conclusion, the Secretary stated that this meeting
brought the session to a close, and urged upon the members to endeavour to increase
the numbers of the Society, which were not satisfactory. The Chairman announced
that one of the members of the Society, M. Pierre ^de Balaschoff, had placed at the
disposal of the Society the sum of 240/. to be used in assisting MM. Capus and
Bonvalot in their travels in Central Asia, the two intrepid explorers having becD
plundered of all their goods by the natives.
Geographical Society of Berlin, June 4th 1887: Herr W. Reibs in the
chair. Dr. Kuckenthal, lecturer on zoology at Jena, gave an account of the voyage
made by him last summer in Spitzbergen waters on board a small whaler of TromsJ5«
The object of the journey was principally soological. He left Tromsd about the end
of April, and as it was still too early in the year for an advance to Spitzbergen, the
whaler was engaged in hunting the Byperoodon ro$tratuSy which is only met with on
the high seas between Spitzbergen and East Greenland. The brown-green colouring of
the water in these parts is produced by minute one-celled algsB, which serve as food
for small red copepoda, upon which, in their turn, the fish feed. The presence of
this wealth of fish-food in those high latitudes permits apparently of an explanation,
if the immense shoals of fish which annually make their appearance off the coasts of
Norway and Scotland come from the north. The hills of Spitzbergen were sighted
NcYm.— Aug. 1887-] 2 p
516
PROCEEDINGS OF FOinGIT SOCIETIES.
on tlie 13tli June> but it was not till the 23rd tliat tke ship was Mq to mn into
Ice Sound. Here the cre^r «et to work to capture white wbales, which are caught in
herds. A stout net, more than 100 yards long, is spread out in the form of a semU
circle in fallow water; the fish are driven into it and epeared. The hlubberof this
apocies of whale h of a suj^erior quality ; its skin furnishea the finest leather. The
traveller took the opportunity of making a boat journey to explore the almost
unknown interior of Ice Sound, the results of which will rectify very considerably
our maps of the Sound, In Sasaen Bay there is one of the moat remarkable moun-
tain formations in the world, viz. the Temple Mountain. A wall of rock, about
G miles long and 330O feet high, risea perpendicularly out of the water. It is com-
|K»ed of a confused mass of lofty pillars and columna, with arches an^ windows
t>etweeu, which are grouped together, and form three distinct scries, one above the
-other. The whole, shining with a yellowish-brown colour in the distance, gives the
unjifosslon of a gigantic temple stnicture. A level snow-plaio, from w^hich rushing
streams precipitate themselves into the depths below, forms the roof. From North
Sound the traveller also visited Nordenskiold's winter quarters of 1872, w^hich lie
found in a good state of preservation. The door of the house, however, was wrenched
^off, and the interior was in a condition of wild disorder, books, flasks^ &c., lying
scattered about on the ground. This confusion was the work of eighteen sailors who
wintered there in 1872-3, and all died from scurvy. The formation of North Sound
is quite different from that shown on I3uner*a map; both arms are in reality twice
as long as broad- After capturing fifty white whales, worth together about 300/.,
the ship returned to TromsCi on 3rd September.^ — Lieutenant Kund gave a sketch of
the general geographical features of the Congo basin, and bade farewell to the Society,
as he was on the eve of departure upon his new journey to Cameroons, — Some brief
Boies were oommunicated by Professor Ascherson on his travels in the Delta of the
Kile. He has visited particularly the coast lake (Arabian, helwrah), BruUus (the
only pronunciation of the word which he heard). The lake is exceptionally rich in
fish, and much spawn (Amblan, hutartfh) was recently obtaioed there. The fish are
salt-water fish, for the water of the behCrah is stmngly saline. The western of the
two peninsulas which separate the lake from the sea is named Aglim-el-Bmllus, A
particular town called Brnllua, marked on the maps, does not exist; indeed, the carto-
grsfihy of the whole region needs great alteration. On the map of J. Wyld nearly
half the names of the places visited by Ascherson are wrongly spelt. The district
■of BruUus contains about 15,000 inhabitants and 100 towns, the principal of
which is Baltfm^ with a population of 6000. It is the scat of the Mamilr.
Besides this, there is only the harbour town of Burg-el-Brullus, with a few
forts, situated on the Boghaz. Fresh water cannot be obtained; the drinking
water is brackish everywhere. Agriculture is consequently in a very back-
ward state. Besides fishing, the cultivation of the date-palm and water-melon
is the chief means of livelihood for the people. The wild vegetation is very
-similar to tliat of the environs of Alexandria. On the heaps of ruins of the
^Id settlements — in ancient times the population of this region was more numerous
and pro8i>erou3 than now^a superior vegetation is found. The iuhabitants hold
the tradition that in former days the "beh€rahs" were caltivated lauds, and that in
consequence of the dams being neglected they became lakes. Even now it is
possible that under a permanent and weE-regulated government they might be
reclaimed in a similar way to the Harlem Lake. From this region Ascherson pro-
ceeded to the Suez Canal. In Ismailia the malarious fevers have become aa bad as
the most notorious fever spots in Asia* From El Bantarah the traveller followed
the great Syrian caravan route to EL Arish, and then returned to the west along the
coast to the now dried- up Lake Sirbiys. This tenitoij east of the canal ia a steppo
MEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUCATIOMS. 017
ricli in yegetation, which, botanically speaking, fonns the transition re^^on to the
fertile cultivated lands of Palestine. The further east the traveller proceeds, the
greater hecomes the variety of the species. The rainfall in winter is hy no means
inconsiderahle. On the ^th April and 1st May Ascherson experienced heavy
showers of rain* In the flora there are many species corresponding with those of
the Sinai Mountains. They are to he foimd along the Wadi el Arish, which in
winter is very full of water. The inhahitants are a curious mixture of Turkish,
Syrian, and Arahian immigrants. Fair hair and hlue eyes are not uncommon.
The political hoimdaries of this region are very inaccurately shown on the maps.
The Egyptian territory lies along the coast in a £Edrly broad belt as far as Eafii,
midway between £1 Arish and Ghazah. South of this extends a tract of Turkish
country, the breadth of which is uncertain, as £Eur as the meridian of the oasis of
Qatieh on the Syrian caravan recite. The insecurity of this region, since the
murder of Professor Palmar, is so great, that the traveller was only able to travel for
three hours up the Wadi el Arish, that is to say, within the limits of the authority
of the Egyptian garrison in 1^1 Arish.
NEW GEOGBAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
(By J. SooTT Exuns, Ztbrarian B.GA.)
EUBOPE.
Bergner, BudoU — ^Bamanien. Eine Darstellung des Landes und der Leute.
Breslau, J. U. Kern, 1887 : 8vo., pp. 412. Price 10s. (Dulau.)
Herr Bergner writes from his personal knowledge of Boumania; at the
Fame time he has brought together information from other sources, and his
> volume will be welcome as a fairly complete account of a country about whidi
there is a lack of accessible literature. There are numerous fine illustrations
and a good map.
Bennia, - Oeorge. — The Cities and Cemeteries of Etruria. Third edition. Two
vols. London, John Murray, 1883 : voL L pp. cxxviiu and 502; voL ii. pp. xv.
and 579. Price 21«.
This classical work will be found of the greatest valne by the student of the
ancient geography of the region to which it refers.
I^ley, Athelftan. — Athos, or the Mountaiif of the Monks. London, Longman,
1887 : 8V0., pp. xiv. and 40SL Price 2U [Presented by the Publisher.]
To most readers Mr. Biley's brightly written volume will be a complete
novelty. Athos, the most northerly and mountainous of the three long
tongues that jut out from the Salonica Peninsula, is perhaps the most holy of
all the holy lands of the Greek Chorch. Mr. Biley was fortunate enough to
be able to spend several weeks in the peninsula, visiting its many numasteries,
communing with the monks, studying antiquities, architecture, history, and a
little geography ; the results he gives in this novel and instructive volume.
Piat, Alfred- — ^Projet de cr^tion an moyen de ressources d'ex^cntion k tirer de
TcBuvre memo d'un Port de Guerre et de Commerce en eau profonde & C^bourg
(Calvados) pour supplier k I'insuffisance irremediable de Cherbourg et du Havre.
Paris, Alcan-L^vy, 1887 : 4to., pp. 33, map and pUn.
Schrenck, L.'v., and Kazimowics, C. J.— BeitragezurEenntnissdesBussisdien
Belches und der angrenzenden Lander Asieos. Dritte Folge. Anf Koeteii der
2p2
518
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
Kaiserlic"ben Akademi© <3er WissenscHaftcn. H€Taiis;]:egeben von L. v. Scbrcnct
uiid C. J. Maximovvicz. Baud ii. St Petersbiii^, 1887 : 8vo., pp. 350.
Tbis volume contains two articles. The first ia by E. Biicbner, on tbe Birds
of the St. Petersburg Govemment, Tbe secuiid is by Count D. A, Tolstoi, on
the TowD-schoolii during tbe reign of the Empress Catharioe II., translated
from the Ilu&sian by P, v, Ktlgid^^en.
ASLi.
Berg, L* W, C* [Van den]. — Le Hiidbramout et les Colonies Arabes ^wa»
I'Archipel Indien. O^vrage publj/^e par ordre du Gonvernement. La ITaye,
Nijhoff : large 8vo., pp. viiL and 202, Price 6*, Gd. (Dulati.)
Tbis 18 a work of much interest, and adds greatly to our knowl©d<»e of the
geography of Son lb -east era Arabia and the character of its inhafoitanla.
The author treats hia subject xmder thre^j headss: (I) the Hadhramout itself^
on tbe original reporta of native travellers; (2) the Arab ailonists of the
Hiidbramout in tbe Indian Archipelago; aod (3) the lan^^uage spoken by tbe
Arabs, both in the mother country aod in the colonies, from personal ex-
perience and inveHtigation.
Now this Hsdhrumout^not impossibly coonciCted with Hazarmaveth^ son
of Joktan, great-^andsou of Shem — shown in the mnp which Giffiord Palirave
attached some tweiify-live 3'ears ap;o to his narrative of travel in more northerly
latitudes— is, roughly speaking, c^jm prised within 46 and 54 meridians of
longitude. Its most sombern point is to be found in the coast-line westward
of Aden, but of its extent inland we Lave no definite infornmtion. M. Van den
Bcig retninds us how little we know of the interior of this intert'stinjij but
unexplored tract. That little has, with the exception of a few items of in-
struction afforded by the Arab geographers of the Middle Ases, been obtaine<l
from Niebuhr, Wellste*!, Fresnel, and de Wrede, Tbe last wrote from the
experience of an actual visit, but his book did not a|>pear until 1873, or thirty
years after be had seen the country doscrilied, and bis description has more tha
character of a reminiscence than of a record tiiken on the spot.
£f ckertt K, [von]. — Der Kaukasns und seine Volker. Leipzig, Frohbcrg, 1887 ;
8vo., pf>. vii. and 385. Price 12«.
The author of tbis inifxirtant contribution to our knowledge of the Can casus
liad many op|K>rtanities duiing a two years' residence in the country on official
duty, of traversing it ia many directionH, aud visiting regions rarely sought
after by modern travellers. The results of his ob,>5ervaiions he has brought
togeihir in a series of chapters on various asf^cts ot the country* Herr
Krckert*fl notes refer very largely to the people in tbe various branches, and hia
clasai Bcation Ib bftsed on a large number of head-measuremenU combined with
the languages ipoken^ He his |)lotted tbe rf^sults of bis ethnographical In*
vesti^fttions on a map wliicb embraces the whol-j rdion between the Caspian
and the Black seas and between th» Sea of A»off and tlje river Araks. Ho
has also exhibited in a series of tables a seleclinn of words from the varioos
langui^es spoken. After his introductory 8ecti<>ns, the author devotes a
chapter to the level country lying on the north of tlie Caucasian range* In tbe
two following chapters be deals with Kalmuks, Turkumans, Nogais, aui
Cossacks* The next chapter treats of the country on the le^t bank of the Enban,
and following chapters of the Karaclus, tbe CauciLsiiin Steinbuk, the Cherkess,
the Ossetians, the Chechen via. Some 150 pa^^ea are devoted to Dajihestan and
its people (Lesghians), and two shorter chapters to the people of the Coast rcgion
and the Trans-Caucasians.
[IndiaO^-^*^^^^"* ^f ^^® Operations of the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India*
Vol. 1 V. A, General Description of the Principal TriancnLilion of tbe Jodhpore and
the Eastern Sind Meridional Series of the Nortb-Went Quadrilateral, with tbe
Details of their Beductioo and the Final Results. Prepired in the ofBca of the
Trigonometrical Branch, Survey of India, Col C, T, Haig, b,e., Offg. Deputy
NSW OEOORAPHICAL PUBUCAHONS. 519
Surveyor-General, in charge. Published under the orders of Col G. C. De Pr^,
8.C., Surveyor-General of India. Debra Dun, printed at the OflSce of the Trigono-
metrical Branch, Survey of India, 1886 : 4to., charts and plates, [Presented by
the Secretary of State for India.]
Tchihatchef, P. [de].— Klein- Asien. Ltipzig, G. Freytag, 1887 : 8vo., pp. viii.
and 188. [Presented by the Author.]
This is one of the series of handbooks being issued by Freytag under the
title of " Das Wissen der Gej?enwart." It consists of a very complete and
useful sketch of Asia Minor by M. Tchihatchef, who has for so long been an
authority on that region. The various sections treat of geography and hydro-
graphy, topography, climate, vegetation, fauna, geology, and a miscellaneous
section on history, antiquities, and people.
AFRICA.
ICape of Good Hope.]— Statistical Register of the Colony of the Cape of Grood
Hope for the year 1886, containing also Agricultural Statistics for 1887. Cape
Town, W. A, Richards & Sons, 1887 : folio, pp. viii. and 224. [Presented by the
Colonial Secretary, Cape Town, Cape of Good Hope.]
Suveyrier, Henri.— Liste de Positions G^graphiques en Afrique (Continent et
lies). Premier fascicule A-G. Paris, Soci^t^ de G^ographie, 1884: 4to.,
pp. 102. [Presented by the Paris Greographical Society.]
There are about 1600 positions in this part, arranged alphabetically, with
altitudes, latitudes, longitudes, and authorities. Its value to cartography is
evident, and we hope our enterprising sister Society will lose no time in giving
M. Duveyrier the means of completing the undertaking,
Mackinnon, [Bev.] James* — South African Traits. Edinburgh, James Gemmell,
1887 : 8vo., pp. vi. aod 301. Price 7a. Sd. [Presented by the Publisher.]
Mr. Mackinnon opens up no new ground in this volume, but it will be
found both interesting and iustructive. He spent three years and a half from
1881 in South Africa, mainly in connection with the College at Stellenbosch,
and his volume deals largely with that town and the country round about it.
He gives much information as to the present social, economical, and
educational condition of the part of the Colony with which he is personally
acquainted. He made excursions elsewhere, into the Drachensberg, to the east of
the Colony, into Natal and the Transvaal ; some of his ezperieoces in these
excursions he describes. He has also from various sources compiled some
instructive chapters on certain episodes in the history of the Colony. The volume,
as a whole, gives a fair and useful picture of the present condition of develop-
ment of Cape Colony generally.
Moloney, Alfred [C.M.O.]'-Sketch of the Forestry of West Africa, with par-
ticular reference to its present principal commercial products. Londoa,
Sampson Low & Co., 1887. Price 10s. Qd. [Presented by the Publisher.]
Mr. Moloney's official connection with the Government of Lagoe has given
him special opportunities of becoming familiar with the actual condition of the
forests of our West African possessions, while his botanical knowledge has en-
abled him to made good use of his opportunities. However, Mr. Moloney's
book covers more than British West Afriica, and he has brought together much
useful information as to the actual condition of the forests in the whole region.
His aim is to show that there are vast n-sources of useful industry in West
Africa which are unworked, and he goes over the various trees and useful plants
in great detail, gives information as to the supplies which cxi«t, commercial
value, methods of culture, &c The volume may be regarded as an important
contribution to what is known as Commercial (Jcograpby.
620
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL POBLlCATlONa,
Pajot, Elie. — Simples Henacignementii but Vile Botirljon. Paris, CEallamel
Aine, 1887 : 8m, pp. 344, Price Zs, 6t/. (Dulau.)
This little volame contains a useful account q( the liiatory of Keunion, with
many notes on itJi resources and progress. '
AMERICA*
Baillie, Alexander F. — A Paraguayan Treasure : the Search and the Discovery.
With route map and plans, Loudon, Simpkin, Marjshatl, & Co., 1887 : Bvo.,
pp. 368. Price 68. [Presented by the Author.]
BmiJlglmrsti GaiUermO E. — Estudio sohrc la Geografia de Tarapaca (pdginas de
nn Uhro) trabajo escrito pfira e! nteneo de I^^mque. Santiago, Imp. de *El
Progreso; 1886 : 8vo,, pp. 113, [Presented by the Author.]
[Cayo Arenas.] — Sociedad Mexicana de Geografia y Estadistica, Apuntes sobre
Cayo Arenas fonnodos por 6rden de la Sociedad de Geografia y Estadistica por su
segundo Secretario Juan Orosico y Berra y publicados por acuerdo de la miBma
corporacion. M^xico^ Ofic. Tip* de la Secretaria de Fomenfco, 1886 : 12nio.» pp. vi,
and 66^ 2 m&ps.
Cumberland, Stnart< — The Queen's Highway from Ocean to Ocean. With numer-
ous collotype illustrations and two maps. Loudon, Sampson Low Sc Co.^
1887 : 8vo., pp. 431, Price 18** [Presented by the Publishers.]
Etescribes the country traversed by the Canadian Pacific Tt ail way, from tho
Atlantic to tho Pacific Oceans, The opening chapters refer to the " Province
of the Midnight Snn," British Columbia, including it« mainland, ialanda, cities,
climate, and general resources. In chapter iii. Esquimault as a naval centre,
and its bearing upon Rus^jia's position m the Pacilic is discussed; the remain-
ing chapters describe the various points of interest along the route of the
"Queens Highway,** from the Pacific to the Rockies, and across the ojxin
prairie to Wiunipg (the half-way houst'), thenco round the north shore of Lake
Superior, and by Ottawa, Montreal, and Quebec to the Atlantic terminus at
Halifax. Many of the iliujitratious are frotu photographB exhibited in the
Canadian Court at the Indian and Colonial Eihibition.
HartiHi K. — Bericht iibcr eine Reise nach Nietierlaudiach West-Indieu und darauf
gegrundete Studien. L Land und Leute. Leiden, Brillj 1887: large 8vo., pp.
ISe. Price ITs, (Dulatt,)
This is the firBt part of what pramises to be a complete and most detailtfd
study of the Dutch West Indies, The work is brought out under the auspices
of the Butch Geographical Society. The present part deals with land and
people, the former being investigated in all its aspects, geographical^ geological,
biologicaL The work abounds with well-executed illustmttons, lithographio
and photographiCi and in future parts we are promised four maps,
Eumbold, Sir Horace [Bart J^Thc Great Silver River : Notes of a Residence m
Buenos Ayres in 1880 and 1881. Loudon, Murray, 1S87 : 8vo., pp. [14] and 330,
Price 125.
It was not to be expected that Siri Horace Rumbold should be able to tell
us much that is positively new about the Plate region. The record of his
experiences of life in Buenos Ayres and its neighbourhood will, however, be
found useful by those who may have to reside there. He has much to tell
about the politics of the Argentine ; and his remarks on the country as a field
of immigration deserve serious attention* Sir Horace made a trip up the
Uruguay and touched the country of that name as well as Paraguay and BraxiL
What he has to say concerning the life and scenLTy of the Brazilian borderland
will be uew to many. There are several good iLlustratioo^ but no map.
KEW GEOGRAPHICAi PUBUCATIONS.
ttt
Sievers, [Br J W.— Keise in der Sierra Nevjula de Santa Marta. Leipzig,
(iressner & Scliramm, 1887: Bvo., pp. [10] and 290. [Presented by the
Author,]
Dr. Sievera was a pnpil of Baron von KiclithofeTJ, nnd by a lengthened visit
to South America, at the cost of the Karl-Rittcr Stiftung, and under the
auapicea of tbe Berlin Geographical Society, he sought to gain some practical
experience as a geographer. The results of his travels *m Venezuela have aj)-
peared in the Journal of the Hamburg Geograffhical Society, The present
volume, which unfortunately has no map, is devoted to tbe very interesting
Sierra Nevada range, and the region around, on the nortli coast of Colombia,
where Dr. Sievera spent some time in the beginning of 188(>. He gives a
narrative of his journeyings, full of iaformaiion on country and people, eBpeciftlly
the native Indian, Apart from the value of the work as a contribution to
geography, it is an excellent sample of what can he produced by a young man
who has hail a thorough training iu geographical science and methuds of
geographical observation.
Smithsonian Miscellaneous Coliectioaa, — Vols, xjtviii.-xxjt. Washington, published
by the Smithsonian institution, 1887: 8vo., pp. (xiviii.) xxv. abd 747 ; (xxix,) x,
and 773 j (xxx.) x. and 523, vL and 559. [Presented by the Smithsonian
Institution.]
Vol. xxviiL contains — "Tublea, Meteorological and Physical,*^ by Arnold
Guyot, F.D., LL.n, Fourth edition, revised and enlarged. Edited by William
Libbey, jun. — Vol xxii, ** A Catalogue of Scientific and Technical Periodical
(1666 to 1882), together with Chronological Tables and a Library Check-List**
By Henry Carrington Bolton,— Vol* xxx, ** Scientific Writings of Joseph
Henry," with illnatrations,
lUmted States.]— Annual Keport of the Chief Signal OfBcer of the Army to the
Secretary of War for the year 1885. In two volumes. Washington, Government
Printing Office, 1885 : 8vo., pp, (part 1) 609, (part 2) 440, maps.
Part 2 of this Report oontaics a treatise by Prof. William Ferrel on * Recent
advances in Meteorology, systematically arranged in the form of a Text-book,
designed for use in the Signal Service School of Instruction at Port Myer, Va.,
and also for a Hand-book in the office of the Chief Signal-Officer.* It is divided
ais follows ; — Chapter L The'constitution and physical properties of the atmo-
sphere, IL Temperature of the atmosphere and earth's surface. HI. Tho
Reneral motions and pressure of the atmosphere. IV. Cyclones, V. Tornad<jes.
VL Meteorological Observations and their Reductions. YII. Ocean Currents
and their Meteorological EtTects. The Appendix contains Hypsometric and
other tables, and a list of Books and Papers relcjred to in the work.
* Deportment of the Interior, United States Geological Survey, J. W. Powell,
Director. Monographs of tho United States Geological Survey, Vol. x. Bino*
cerata^ a Monograph of an Extinct Order of Gigantic Mammals, by Othniel
Charles Marsh. Washington, Government Printing Office, 188G ; Ito., pp. xviii,
and 243, plates. [Presented by the Director uf the Unite<l •!
Survey.]
. Fourth Annual Report of the Biireati of El
of the Smithsonian Institution, 1882-83. By
Wflshington, Government PrintiDg Office, 1886 : im
[Presented by the Smithsouian Institution,]
Besides the report on the general work of th^
a preliminary paper of great interest, anipl^^
the North American Indians, by Colonel (
Hohnes contributes three important memoi
523
KIW GEOORAPUICAL PtJELICATlOKS,
Puebloftp oa tlie Ancient Pottery of the Miasissippi Valley, and on tlie Oripjin
and Development of Form and Ornament in the Ceratnic Art, The volume
ooncludea with a paper, hy Mr. Frank Hamilton CuahiDg, on Tneblo Fottery, as
illuBtrative of Ziuiii Culture-growth*
Report on the Mining Inilniitnea of the United States (exclumre of the
precious metals) with special investigation into the Iron Resources of the
Iicpuhlic, and into the Crelaceoua Coals of tho North-west. By Raphael
Pumpelly, Special Agent. Washington, GoTemment Printing Office, 1886; 4to.,
pp. latxviii. and 1025, [Presented by the United States Government,]
Ihia fortnu volnme xv, of iho raluable series of the United States Cenaas
publications. Apart from its importance as containing a detailed account of
the mineral resources and mining; industries of the United States, it wiO be
found of special value by the student of economic geography, especially as the
statistics are graphically illustrated by 102 excelieivt maps and diagrams.
AROTIO.
[Intematioiial Polax ObaervationB,] — Die Internationale Polarforschnng 1S82-
83. Die lleobacbtunga-Ergehnisse der Deutschen Stationen, Band L Kin^ua-
Fjord, und die MeteoiologiMchen Statjonen JL Ordnung in Labrador. 4 to.,
pp, 30 and liv. and 736, Band IL Siid-Georgien. pp. 12 and Ivi, and 523.
Herausgej^tben im Auflrage der Deutschen Polar-Kommission von Prof. Dr, Neu-
majer und Pruf. Dr. Bergen. Berlin, A&cher & Co., 1886, Price 5^. [Presented
by the German Polar Commission,]
Bcobachtungun der Hussischen Polarstation an der Lenamiindung. 11, ThciL
Meleorologische Beo bach tun gen, bearbeitet von A. Eigaer, I. Lieferung,
Bcobachlnngen vom Jahre 1882-S3, Herausgegeben uuter Redaction von
K: Lens. 1886. 4 to., pp, xivil. and 167- — Beobachtungea der Rusaischeu
Polarstation auf Nownja Semlja. 11, Theil. Meteorologlsche Beobachtungen,
Bfarbeitet von K.' Andrejell. Herausgegeben unter Redaction ^on R. I.*nz.
IBB^* 4 to., pp. xviL and 159, [Publiihed and presented by the Bussiaa
C^eog^aphical Society.]
We have here two more imi)ortant instalments of the valuable scriea of
observations taken round the two Poles during ISS.-^'K Of course, like the
observations already published in this series, these obserrations are in the main
meteorological : as such they are an important contribution to physical geography.
But in both jmbliciUiona there is much information on the general j:eograpliy of
the regions in which the station a were located. Kingua Fjord in at tho heail
of Cumberland Gulf in Davis Stmits, and the report contains a ijkctcli of ihe
region with accorafuinying maps, besides a few notes on the Lnbrailor stations.
The geographical inrormation on South Georgia ia much fiillt^r, iiicludmg
sketches of ils topography, geolrgy, and botany, besides detailed map« from
*^urvtysof the region around Uoyal Bay, The re|>orts of observations on Xoviiya
Zenilya and at the month of the Lena are in Russian and German. The ma^M
included in the rcpurts add something to our knowledge of the geography of
both regions.
AUSTRALASIA.
Hobarttown oder Somracrfrische in den Antipoden. Prag, H, Mercy, 1886 ; 4 to,,
pp. 284, [Prtsenttd by the Author, 1 1. 1. II, Prince Ludwig Silvator of Austria,]
This is a handsomely illustrated work, giving an account of Tasmania in
its various sKpccts, including the Climate, Geology and Min*^mla^ Fauna and
Flora, Population, Industry and Trade, &c. There is a map of the Environs of
Hobarttown,
Pratt, [B«V.] George*^- A Comparison of the Dialicts of East and Wcbt Polynesian,
Mid ay, Malagasy, and Australian, [Bead before the Royal Society of N,S.W,
MEW GEOORAPHICAL PUBUCATIOMS. ^28
2nd June, 1886.] [Sydney, Charle* Potter, Goremment Printer, 1887]: 8vo.,
pp. 24. [Presented by Rev. G. Brown.]
□few ZealandJ— New Zealand Industrial Exhibition, 1885, Wellington. The
OfiScial BeconL Wellington, G^rge Didsbury, Goremmont Printer, 1886: 8vo.,
pp. xii., 230, and 123, pUuu
A foil account of the New Zealand Industrial Exhibition, 1885. Appended
are the three Exhibition prize essays on the Industries of the Colony.
OCEANIA.
Penny, [Bev J AlGred.— Ten Tears in Melanesia. London, Wells Gardner and
Co. [no date] : 8vo., pp. [6] and 232. Price 5s. [Presented by the Publishers.]
Mr. Penny spent the last ten years in Melanesia as a missionary in connec-
tion ¥rith the Melanesia Mission. Most of his time seems to have been spent
in Florida Island and the Solomon group, and concerning that island and its
neighbours and their inhabitants he gives us the very valuable results of his
own observations. He spent some time also in Norfolk Island, and in cruising
about among various groups, so that his observations cover a wide area. Mr.
Penny sums up the results of his experiences in a scries of interesting chapters,
full of information, much of which will be appreciated by the geographer.
After a general sketch of Melanesia and of Norfolk Island and its history, Mr.
Penny deals vdth heathen superstitions, native customs, the progress of
Cbristanity, traders, and island phenomena. In the last chapter his observations
on the physical geography of the islands with which he is acquainted, well
deserve careful reading. Neither pictures nor map are equal to the text.
GENEBAL.
Den Norske NordhaYs- Expedition, 1676-1878.— {The Norwegian North-
Atlantic Expedition, 1876-8.] XVII. Zoologi, Alcyonida. Yed D. 0. Danielssen.
Christianla, Gr^ndahl & S^ns, 1887: imp. 4 to., pp. viii. and 169, map and
plates. [Presented by the Editorial Committee of the Norwegian North-Atlantic
Expedition.]
. XVIIIa. and XVIIIb. Nordhavets Dybder, Temperatur og Str^mninger
ved H. Mohn. With 48 plates and maps, and 3 woodcuts. Christianla, Gr^ndahl
& S<^n, 1887 : imp. 4to., pp. 212.
This part contains minute details respecting the Depths, Temperature, and
Circulation of the North Ocean. Part XVIIIb. contains the maps and plates.
Emigration and Immigration. — Reports of the Consular Officers of the United
States. Washington, Government Printing Office, 1887 : 8vo., pp. ir. and 748.
[Presented by Worthington C Ford, Esq., Department of State, Bureau of
Statistics.]
Contains valuable statistics of emigration, concerning Austria-Hungary,
Belgium, France, G^many, Greece, Italy, Malta, Netherlands,{Norway, Portugid,
Russia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom.
Gibson, John.— Great Waterfalls, Cataracts, and Geysers, described and illus-
trated. With 32 illustrations. London, T. Nelson & Sons, 1887: poat Svo.,
pp. 288. Price 29. 6d. [Presented by the PublUhers.]
This little work inclndes descriptions of some of the principal and grandest
of waterfalls, &c., among which may be mentioned the Falls of Niagara ; Fails
, of Yosemite Valley ; Falls of the Yellowstone Region ; Kaieteur Fall; Cataracts
of the Orinoco and Parana; the Falls of the Zambesi ; the Falls and Cataracts
of the Nile ; the Falls of the Seneratl ; the Cataracts and Rapids of the Congo ;
the Geysers of the Yellowstone K^on ; the Geysers of Iceland ; and the
Geysers of New Zealand.
BU
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUOATIOKS.
[lEternational Geodetic Association.] — VerhandluDgen derTom 27. October bi«
sfium 1» November 1B8G in Berlin al>t;ehalteneti Achten AilgcmeiBen Conferetizder
Internationalen Erdmessung und daren PtTmantntett CommisBioE, redigirt vom
Btandigen Secretar A. Hirsch* Zugleich mit den Bericlateii der ¥ertreter der
eiuzelDeu Staaten iiber die Fortschrilte der Erdmessung in ihren LiiEdera* von
1884-6, hemusgegeben von der Perma^acnlen Commission der Internationalen
Erdmessung.— Comptefi-RenduB des stknces do la HuiLieme Conforenoe G^crale
de ['Association G^odcfiiqiie Internationaleetde sa Commiesion Permanent* r^unies
k Birlin du 27 Octobre au 1'"" Novembro 1886, redigea par le Secretaire perpctuel
A. Hirsoh. Publiea en meme temps que ka liapports des D6\6gxiis dea diflerents
£tAts sur ka pr<>gT^ des travaux geodesiquea accompliB dans lenra pays de 1884:
^ 1B86, par la Commission Ptrmaneote de rAssociallon G^oddsique Internationale.
Berlin, Gcorg Heimer, 1887 ; 4ta, pp. xviit. and 248, maps. [Presented by tbe
AsaociaiioD.]
Jouroal of the College of Science, Imperial University, Japan. Vol. I., Part IT.
Publisbed by the University, TukyG, Japan, 1837 : large 8vo. [Presented by tbo
Imperial University, TCikyO, Japan.]
Contains the following paper ; " Beltrage znr Theorie der Bewegnng der
Erdatmosphare imd der Wirbelstiirme,'' by Dr. Phi. Diro Kitao^ illustrated
with a plate.
KeaEe, CProf J A- H, — Eastern Geography. A Geograpliy of tbe Malay Peninsula,
lodo-China, tbe Eastern Arcbipelago, the Pbilippines, and New Guinea, With a
map. London, Stan ford ^ 1887 : 8vo,, pp. xii, and 190. Price 5s.
The present volume is to some extent compiled on the basis of a smaller
treatise which appeared at Singapore in 1884. It is issued, we uoderstand,
under tbe auspices of the Government of the Stmits Settlements, and is meant
primarily for use in the schools of that colony. Tho book will, however, be
found usefni by all desirous of having a pretty full and trustworthy account of
tbe rep on with which it deals. In the treatment i especially of the physical
and biological sections, Mr. Keaoe has made an attempt, pretty auccessfully,
" to break away from tbe crude methods still lingering in our schools, and to bring
tho matt<;r more into harmony with the views of the Hitters, Peschels, Kecliis, and
the other illustrious exponents of tbe scientific method," Mr, Keane ba^f taken
at! vantage of the researches of the most recent explorers, and his treatment of
tho whole subject is systematic, clear, and tivirly full. He baa divided the
Eastern ArcbiiMjlago into three^ inatead of two divisions, -^Asiatic, Oceanic, and
Australian, a division for which bo advances satisfactory linguistic reasons.
His double pagination of the contents, we should say, is no substitute for an
index. The map is too small to be of much practical service.
[Malet, H* P.]^ — Sunlight Second edition, with alterations and additions.
London, Triibner & Co., 1687: 12mo., pp. xii, and 180. [Present^ by tho
Author.]
Markham, Clements B- — Famous Sailors of Former Times : Tbe Story of tho
Sea Fathers. With frontispiece. Second edition. London, &a, Cassell & Co.,
ISaC : cr. Bvo., pp. viii, and 22L Price 2$, 6tt
HaitinB, CSl&rles.— Du Spitzberg aa Sahara ; Stapes d'un Naturaliate au Spits-
berg, en Laponie, en ^cosse, en Suisse, en France, en Italie, en Orient, en iSgypte.
et en Algerie, Paris, Bailliere et Fils [1886] : 8vo., pp. xvi. and G19,
Price 7f. M,
This is a new edition of a collection of papers by M. Martins, which appeared
several years ago, after having been first published through various media.
M. Martins discusses various questions in physical and botanical geography,
I>artly from his own observations, and partly on the basis of the writings of
others.
NEW OEOGBAPHICAL PUBUCATIONS. 625
Beport of the Royal Commission for the Ck>lonial and Indian Exhibition, London,
1886, to the R^ht Hon. Henry Matthews, M.P., &c London, W. Clowes & Sons,
1887 : 8to. pp. IzziiL and 373, plan.
Bogers, William A., and Winlock, Anna.— A Catalogue of 180 Polar Stars
for the epoch of 1875.0,* resulting from all the available observations made
between 1860 and 1885, and reduced to the system of the Catalogue of Publication
XIV. of the AstronomiAche Gesellschaft [Memoirs of the American Academy of
Arts and Sciences. Centennial volume, vol. xi., part iv. — ^No. v.] Cambridge,
John Wilson & Son, 1886 : 4to.
Semeonof, P.— Geographichesko-Statisticheskii Slovar Bocsiiskoi Imperii. (Geo-
graphico-Statistical Lexicon of the Russian Empire.) Vols. ii.-v. St. Petenbnrg,
1863-85. [Presented by the Russian Geographical Society.]
This work, issued under the auspices of the Imperial Russian Geographical
Society, is completed with the fifth volume, the first of the series having been
published as far back as 1863. Its scope and object has been to collect and
condense in a form readily accessible to students and the general reader the
vast mass of materials contained in books, pamphlets, magazines, monographs,
&C., relating to all parts of the Russian empire. It is in foci a valuable topo-
graphical summary of every town, village, range of mountains, river, lake, sea,
province, district, and tribe contained in that vast extent of the earth's surface.
A list of authorities follows each article. — [£. D. IL]
Stephen, leaUe.— Dictionary of National Biography. VoL xL Clatcr— CondelL
London, Smith, Elder, & Co., 1887 : 8vo., pp. vL and 470. Price 12s. ed.
Stevenfl, Thomas.— Around the World on a Bicycle. From San Francisco to
Teheran. With over 100 illustrations. London, Sampson Low & Co., 1887:
8vo., pp. xvii. and 647. Price 16s. [Presented by the Publishers.]
The journey, of which this volume is a record, was made in 1884-85.
Mr. Stevens left San Francisco on the 22nd of April, 1884, and reached Boston
on the 4th of August, the journey across the Continent having occupied
103} days. In the following April the author resumed his journey, embarking
at New York for Liverpool On arriving at Newhaven, he crossed to Dieppe
and travelled through France, Germany, Austria, and Hungary ; Slavonia and
Servia; Bulgaria, £)umelia and Europeaa Turkey. From the Ottoman capital
he took steamer to Ismid and from thence traversed Asia Minor br Angora,
Yuzgat, Sivas, Erzingan, and Erzeroum. He next crossed the northecn part
of Kurdistan and entered Persia, vtsiting Tabreez, and Kasveen, arriving at
Teheran on the 30th of September. The volume has neither an index nor
a map.
The Encyclopasdia Britannica. Ninth edition. VoL xxiL Edinburgh, A. and C.
Black, 1887 : 4to., pp. 856. Price 30s. [Presented by the Publishers.]
There is an unusually large proportbn of important geographical articles in
this volume. Among them, may be mentioned Siberia and Syr-Dana, by
M. Krapotkine; Sicily, Spain, and Syracuse, by Mr. G. G. Chisbohn; Sind
and Sistan, by Sir Frederic Croldsmid ; Sokoto, by Mr. Jose^ Thomson ;
Solomon Islands, by Baron von Hiigel ; Soudan, by Professor &eane : Sooth
Australia, by Mr. James Bonwick ; Sumatra, by Mr. H. A. Webster; Sweden,
by Profs. Hildebrandsson, Clere, and Kjellman, Dr. A. Wir^ and F. J.
NystrCm ; Switzerland, by Rev. W. A. B. Coolidge and Mr. Webster ; Syria, by
Prof. Socin. The article on Stiabo is by Prof. William Bidgeway, and on
Surveying by General J. T. Walker. The volume contains eleven plates, all
maps.
The Journal of the Bombay Branch of the Boyal Asiatic Society. Extra Number.
Prof. Peterson's Beport on the Search for Sanscrit MSS. in the Bombay Circle,
1884-86. Bombay, Society's library; London, Trfibner Sc Co., 1887: Svo.,
pp. XXX., 47, and 407.
BU
KEW MAPS,
The following works have also been added to the Library :—
Asta*Buraag&r Praaciaco Solaao*— Dlcclonario Jeogrdfico d© la Reptiblica de
Chile. Nueva York, D. Appletoa & Co., 1867 : am. Siro,, pp, viii* and 42 1>
jxirtrait. [Prix^euted by the Author.]
Blosseville, [Benigiie] Ernefit [Poret, Marqais] de,— Histoire dei Coloniea
Fenalea de rAngletcrre ifxn» TAastralie. Paris, Adrien lo Clero and Go», &c.,
1831 ; 8vo,, pp. 59G. [Presented by M, James JackaonJ
[CorawallJ— An Uosentimentai Journey through Cornwall, By the Author of
Muho Halifax, Gentleman.* With iUufltratious by C, Napier ileiny, Lotidou,
Macmillan & Co,, 1881 ; 4to», pp, x, and 144. Prko I2s, e<i, [Presented by the
Publishers.]
DrBSt, A — -La Exposicion Xacional d© Venezuela en 1883, obra escrita de orden
del (lustre Americano Geneml Guzman Blanco, Caracas, Imp. de *La Opinion
Nacional/ 1884 : folio, pp. 704, plan and plates. [Preaentevl by Dr. A. Ernst.]
level, Andrei A*— Nomenclator de Venezuela contentivo de su cenao en orden
Alfabetico, 2 vuls, Caracas, Imp* * La Opinion Nacioiml,* 1883: 4 to., pp.
(yol 10 ^^0^ (voL ij.) 435. [Presented by Dr. A. Ernst.]
Passarge, LoiliB. — Aus Baltischen Louden, Stiidien und Bilder. Glogait, Carl
Flemniing, 187B ; 12mo., pp. Tiiu and 551,
TiHaviceEcio, [Dr.] E. — La RepiiUica de Venezuela bajo el pnnto de vista de la
Geograda y 1 oixigrafia medicaa y de la Demografia, Caracas, Alfred Rothe, 1880 :
Bvo,, pp. 137. [Presented by the Author.]
NEW MAPS.
(By J, Coles, Map Ckraior B,a.3.)
EUROPE.
Alpeagebiete Oeaterreichs-— DlatanK- und Beisekarte der oestlichen (Salzburg,
Erzheiz, Oeslerreicb. t^tdcrmaik, K am ten, &c.) mit Schutzhiitten-Beikarte und
Uohen label le, bearbcitet von Jul. Meurer. Scale 1 : 3G0,00O or 4*8 geographical
miles to an inch. Wien, Artaria & Go. Price Ba. (Dulau,)
Amiens. — ^Nouveau plan de la vrUe d* , avec ses faubourgs et sections ruralei
|)ar_R. Viinot. Paris. Price Gs, (Didau,)
Pranee- — Carte des rividres navigables et des canairx ex^ut^, en construction et
proj<ct^s. Scale 1:390,000 or 5 '2 geographical miles to an inch. Paris,
Andriveau-Goiijon. {Dvlau,)
OeBterreichiBeh-ungariBClien Monarchie.— -Verkehrs- uod Eiacnbahii'Atlaa der
, von W. Kietmann, Scale 1 1 700,000 or 9*5 geographical miles to
an inch. Leipzig, Pfau, Liefening 2, 3 maps. Price 1«. {Dulau,}
TiroL— Bistanz- und Reisekart© von , bearbeitet Ton Jul. Meurer. Scale
1 : 360,000 or 4"B geographical miles to an inch. Wien, Artiiria Sc Co, Price 5s^
XEW MAPa 627
ORDNANCB BUBYEY MAPS.
PubllefttloBfl iisaed during the mooth of Jooe 1887.
l*inoh— General Maps :—
£Houurx> AKD Walbs : New Series. Nos. 253 (oatllne), 286 (bUls ibadsd), U. each.
6-incli— County Maps:—
EsoLAin) AVD Walks; Bedfordshire: 26 N.W., 28 N.W.; if. High. Breoknooiuiiire :
32S.W.; It. Oambridffeslilre : lO S.W., so S.W^ 38 N.W., 8.W.; u. eaoh. Oardl«tn-
■hire: 3 8.W.. 6 N.M. 7 S.W., lo N.E.; it. each. Oarmarthenihire : 40 M.IC: ii.
Cornwall: 34 N.W.; ii. Derbyshire: 47 S.B.. 48 M.W.; it. eich. Deronshire:
12 N.W., s.i£^ 65 8.K., 77 N.K.. 115 8.W., 121 &£. ; It. esch. Dorsetshire: ii N.K.. aK^
16 N.E, 8.E., 17 8.W., 18 N.W.. 24 N.E.: It. each, aiouoestershire : 69 8.E.. 72 8.B.;
It. each. Herefordshire : 39 &£.. 40 N.W., 45 N. w. it. each. Huntingdonshire : 3 8. W.,
26N W..S.W.; It. each Leicestershire: si 8.W.; it. Lincolnshire: 21 8.E.. 46 &E.,
145 N.K., 146 aE., 149 N.W., 151 N.E., 154 8.W.; It. each. Merionethshire: 14 N.W., N.K.,
2'i N.R, 23 S.E. ; It. each. Monmouthshire : The followhiK addlUotial theeu of th(4 oounij
have been Issued containing parte of the River Severn :— 39. 41, and 42 on one shset, 40 ; 2t. 6(1. eaeh .
Montffomeryshixe: laK.; it. Norfolk: 26 aW., 64 aW.. 74 H.W., 76 N.E.. aw..
87 N.\VT; It. ea. h Somersetshire : 48N.E.. 49 aW., 50 S.W., 61 N.E.. aE, 71 aE.. 91 N. W. i
It. each. Staffordshire : 20 N.W., 26 aK.. 3h N.E.; it. each. 8ufl61k: 12 N.E., 67 aW.,
«7 N.K. ; It. facb. Warwickshire : 5 S.E., 14 N.E. ; u. each. Wiltshire : 24, 37 ; 3t. $d.
each. Worcestershire: 6NJ£.; it.
26-inch— Pariah Maps :^
Ekglakd akd Walks: Brecknockshire: XLVI. 5, St. Oamhridf^shire : XL. 1, it.;
Xr^ 2. 5. LVIII. 8, 3t. eATh; LVJli. 14, 4t. ; LIX. 15. LX. 12, LXI. 13, 8f. each. Oardi(ranshire :
XII. i.3t.; Carmarthenshire: XXVL 1, 2. 3.4. XXXIT. 2. 3^ 12, 16. 3t. each; Devon-
shire: XIX. 9, St.; XXIX. 8. 5t.; XXX. 9, 10. 13. XI J. 6 6, XCVIII. 7, II. CXIII. 3. 4. 8. 12,
CX Vlli. 4. 8. 12. 16. C\IX. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. CXXV. 8, 3t. each; CXX V. 4, 4t. ; CXX V. 8, CXX VI. I,
3t.each; CXXVI. 2.CXXXV.4, 8. 4t. each; CXXXV. 16, 3t ; Dorsetshire: HI. 6, 6. 9. 13,
V. 8. XXVI. 15, 3t. each. Area Books: Bddnworth, Sutverton, Strinlon ; It. each. Hereford-
shire : VlII. 9. 10, XIII 4, 6. XV. 13, XX. 10. 13, 14. XXI. 8. 3t. each : XXI. 10, 4t. ; XXII. ft,
3t.; XXV. 2. 3,4«.eacb; XXV. 4. 5, 6, 8. 9, St. ««ch ; XXV. 10, 4t.; XXV. 11, 13, 14, 1ft, 16,
XXVI. 5.6,7. 12. 13. 14. 15. XXVIII. 5,10, 14, XXXIV. 2, XXXV. 2. 4, 8. 10, 11, 15, 3t. each)
Huntincrdonshire : IX. 6. XX. 3, 3t. each ; Leicestershire : XXXL 3, 6, 4«. each ; XXX.
7.5t.; XXXI. 8.3t. Lincolnshire: VL1,6.7, 8, 12. XII. 10. 11, XIX. ft. 10. XX. 2, at. eaeh t
XX. 9. 4t. ; XX. 10, 12, 13. 14. 15, XXVIII. 2. 6, n, 13. XXXVII. 1, 3. 7. 8. 10, 11, 12. XLV. 15,
LXIII. 1. 8. LXXI. 2. 4. 7. 3t. each; LXXVII. 1. 4t.: LXXVII. 6. St.; Montcomenrshire :
IX. 14. 3t. ; XI. 15. 4t. : XVI. 4, 3t. 6J.; XVI. 7, XXIII, 11, St. ; Norfolk: II. 9. 3t. ; 111. 15. 4t. ;
I Va. 13. 3t. ; V. 16. VII. 3. IX. 5. 12. X. 7. Zt. each. Are* Books: Buxton, Hevlnf(hem. it. each.
Northamptonshire: XLV. 5, 6t. 6<f.; NoUinffhamshire : XXVI. 1. 4t.; XXVI. 6. 3f.
SomerseUhire : IX. 14. XVI. 2.6. 3t. each; XVI. 7, 4t. ; XVI. 8. it.; LXIV. 4. 4t. ; I.XXIK.
13. 3t.; LXXV. 1,4«.;LXXV. 6.8, 12. LXXVI. 1. 5. 6. 9, 13, LXXXII. 3. 4, St. CMb; LXXXII.6.
4t.; LXXXII. 11. 13. 3t. ca^h; LXXXII. 14, LXXXIII 1, 2, 5. 7. 8. LKXXIV. 1, LXXXIX. 3.
3t. each ; LXXXIX. 5. 8. 4t. each. Staflbrdshire ' LXII. 1, 4t. ; LXU. 2, 5t.; LXII. 9, 4t, ;
LXIII. 11, 6t. td. Area Book: WsImU and ditto Detached, 2t. Id, Suflblk: Area Book t Ckveo-
dish. It. Warwickshire : XXXVII. 9. XXXVIII. 2, 4. 6. is. 16, XXXIX. 2. 3f. ejcb ; L. 16,
LIII. 4. LIV. 4. 4t. each. Wiltshire: XXXVL 3, 14, XXXVIU. 5, 6. 9. 14. XLVL 16. St. e«:h ;
XLVIL 15.4t. ;XLVn. 16. XLVlILlO,Ln.5. 11. 12,15.Lin. 4.3t.eacht LIII. 13. 4t.; LIIL 15,
LIV. 2. 3t. each. Worcestershire: XXXI X. IS, 5t.; X LIV. 16, U. 4, 4t. each. AnsBooks:
' Ah ecburcb. It. 6d. ; Bcslej. It.
Town Plans— 10-lieet scale .—
Exglaxd: Warwick, XXXIU. 13, 4 ; 2t.
{Stanford, AgaU.)
ASIA.
Indian Oovemment Surveys :—
Indian Atlas. Scale 4 miles to an inch. Sheets:— 8 8.W. Portions of
Jacobabad, Shikarpoor and Hobree Districts, — Sindb. 38 S.E. Part* of Districts
Aurangabad and Bid (Nizam *3 DomiDioos), Ahroedcagar and Xas:k (Bombay
Preftidency). 38 S.W. Parts of Districts Kasik, Abmednsgsr, Po ma, and Tliana
(Bombay Presidency), and Aaran;;abad (Nizam's Dominions). 49 8.W. Parts
of Districts Dclbi, Gnrgaon, Robtsk, and Iliaaar (Punjab), Sbaikbawati and
L'lwar (Rajputona). 67 N.W. ParU of DistricU Moradabad, Bijnor, Barcilly,
Tarai, and Knmann (N.W. Provinces), and Bamfnir (Natire SUie). 67 8.W«
Parts of Districts Bareilly, Bodaony Alipirb, Ktsb, Moradabad, Bulandshabr,
Shabjabanpnr, and of Eampar Native State (N.W. Provinces).— {Prelimioarj)
Canal I^Iapof India, 32 miles to an incb. 18^5. 6 sheets. — Hap of Icdta showing
Feeders to Railways (Roads snd Navigable (Canals), 1884-5, 32 miles to an inch.
6 fcbeets. — Bengal Surrey, 1 mile to an inch. Seasons 1868 to 1868. Sheets
N€8. 21f3, 204, 315, 338, 339. District JalpaigarL— Central India and Rsjpotana
Purvey, 1 mile to an inch. Sheet Na 9o. Parts of Jodhpore a&d Sirohee* 8casoD
528
NEW MAPS.
1882-83, Sheets 118, Parts of Oodeyix)re,Jodhpore,aiidSiroli©e. SeaBOUfil 880-81-82.
148. Paris of Dungarpur and OodeyjKire. Season 1884-85. 149. PartaofDungarpur
and Idar. Season 1884— 85, — TrigoDometrical Brancb, Survey of India. K^thi&wir,
1 mile to an inch. Sheets : No. 8 (2od edition), Part of GohelvsSd. Seasons 1866-67
and 67^3, No, 9 (2nd editiun), Part of Gohelvad. Season 18G7-68. No. IT
(2nd edition). Parts of Golielrdd and Undsarvaiya. Seasons 1866-67 and 69-70.
No. 19 (2nd editioa), Parts of BAbn^Tdd and Gohelvdd. Beaaon 1869-70. No. 20
(2nd edition), Parts of JbAUvdd and Macbhtikdnta. Season 1872--73. No. 21
(2nd edition). Parts of JbfitUvjid and Macbu-kanta* Season 1872^73, No. 22
(2nd edition), Parts of Kathiaw&r and JtiAliivdd. Season 1872^73. No. 23
(2nd edition). Parts of KiithiAwir, Jhdlivdd, and HAldr. Season 18G8-69* No.
24 (2nd edition), Parts of Kdtbiilwiir and Hiiljlr. Season 1871-72. No. 29.
(2nd edition), Parts of Babriawar and Soruth. Seasons 1870-71 and 71-72.
No. 35 (2nd edition), Part of Halar. Season 1873-74 No. 45. Part of HdlAr.
Season 1874-75. — Oudb Revenue Survey, 1 niiie to an inch. Sbeet No, 132.
Districts Eberi, Sitapnr, and Bahraich. Seasons 1863-67. — Kobat Topograpliical
Survey, 1 mile to an incb. Sheet No, 7 (Parts of Bangasli and Teri Khattak).
Seasons 1880*81-82-83.— Mysore Topograplncal Survey, 1 mile to an inch-
Sheet No. 25, Part of District Kadur. Season 1879-82, No. 50, Parts of
Districts Kadnrand Mysore, Sea^n 1879-80. — ^Hyderabad Survey^ 2 miles to an
inch. Sheets Nos. 101, 102, 103, 125, 126 and 127 (on one), Mulkaid Circar.
Season 1824-25. Nos, 100, 101, 124 and 125 (on one), Koilkondah Circar.
Seasons 1821, 24, 25, 29 30 and 33. Nob. 102, 103, 126, and 127 (on one), Koilkondah
Gircar. Seasons 1 821, 24, 25, 29, 30 and 33. Nos. 104, 105, 128 and 129 (on one),
Mnlkaid Circar. Season 18:^4-25. Nos. 104, 105, 128 and 129 (on oDe), Koil-
kondah Circar. Seasons 1821, 24, 25, 29, 30 and 33. Noa. 106 and 130 (on one),
Mnlkaid Circar. Seasons 1824-25.*— Burmah Survey, 1 inch to a mile. Sheet
No. 74* District Prome, Season 1882-83. Ko. 77. Districts Henzada, Tharra-
waddy, and Prome. Seusona 1882-85. No. 92. District Prome. Season 1882-63.
No, 93. Districts Promo and Tbarrawaddy, Seasons 1881-82 and 83. — Northern
Trans- Frontier, 8 miles to an inch* Slieets Noa. 20 and 21. Parts of Tibet —
Nortb*eastern Trans-P rentier, 8 miles to an inch. Sheet No. 5. Part of I'ihet. —
Trigonometrical Brancb, Survey of India. Sbeet No. 6 of North-eastern Frontier.
Parts of Tibet, Sikhim, and Bhutan. 8 miles to an inch.— Nep^l Boundary Snrvey,
Sbeet No. 44 (2nd edition), 1 mile to an incb. District Gmmparun. Seasons
1883-64-85. — District Hoogbly, 4 miles to an inch, {Stanford^ AgenL)
AFRICA.
Afrikft.-^Spezial-Karte von — - im Maasstab von 1 : 4,000^000 or 55*5 geographical
miles to an inch. (10 Blatt.) Entworfen von Hermann Hahcnicbt, bearbeitet
von demselbon, Bnioo Domann und Dr. Richard Liiddecke, Zweite Aiiflage.
n. Lieferang, Inbalt: Sektion Zen tral- Sahara (2) nebst Bcmerknngen von
B, Domann. Sektion Seengebiet {8} nebst Bemerkungen von Dr. R. Liiddecke.
Gotba, JiiBtns Pertbea, 1887. Price Ss. (Dttlau,)
The most noti cable feature in this issue is the cliangea that have been made
ia the delineation of the jKiliticAl boundaries. In tbe first edition of this
map tLe Sultan of Zanzibar appeared to bave been deprived of nearly all bis
territories, but in tbe present map be lias a narrow strip of coast-line assi|^ned
to him extending from 2" 40' S. to 10^ 45^ S. and from tbe sea-coast for about
10 miles inland, with tlie exception of some ports which are coloured as
belonging to Germany. Wiib the exception of the alterations in these
boundaries, and some minor corrections, the two sheets comprising part ii. of
this map of Africa are reprod actions of sheets 2 and 8 of the original edition.
NEW MAPS. 529
Khniseb Thales.— Originalkarte des Unteren — » Ton F. M. Stapff. Bednktion
der OriginalzeichnuDg im Massstab 1 : 100,000 auf den Massstab 1 : 225,000 or
8*1 geographical miles to an inch. Petermann's ' Geographiache Mitteilnngen/
Jabrgang 1887, Taf. 11. Gotha, Juatoa Perthes, 1887. (Dulau.)
Lagos.— A Sketch Sarvey of the Inland Water Commnnication in the Colony of
, lying between the French Protectorate of Eotonu and the British Niger
Protectorate. Executed by command and under the personal supervision of C.
A. Maloney, Esq., c.m.o.. Administrator, by William Speeding, Harbour Master.
1886. Scale 1 : 63,360 or 0*86 geographical mile to an inch. 7 sheets. Stan-
ibrd's Geographical Establishment, London.
This appears to be a very complete survey of a portion of the inland water
communication extending between the Benin river and Porto Novo. The
soundings are given in feet, and all important villages laid down.
Tornba Country- — ^Route Survey through , by Harhour Master William C.
Speeding, who accompanied the Special Commissioners H. Higgins and 0.
Smith, from the Government of Lagos to Tribes interior of Lagos, Between 17th
August and lOtb November, 1886. F. Evans, Esq., aM.0., Acting Adminis-
trator.
In this map the author's route through the Yoruba Country is indicated by
a brown line, the positions of places fixed by him from astronomical observa-
tions are marked with a red cross, while those obtained from missionaries and
natives are given as being only approximate. The number of inhabitants at
each village or town through or near which the author passed appears to have
been estimated by him, and placed in brackets beside its name.
AUSTRALIA.
Sud-Ost-Anstralien.— Oro-hydrographisohe Skizse von . Scale 1 : 8,750,000
or 51 * 3 geographical miles to an inch. Showing the routes of Dr. R. v. Lenden-
feld 1880-85. Petermann's ' Geographische Mitteilungen,' Erg&nzungsheffc No. 87,
Tafel 1.
Karten-Skizze Ton^ Dr. R. v. Lendenfeld*s Route in das Bogong Gehirge.
Scale 1 : 500,000 or 6*8 geographical miles to an inch.
Mount Bogong. Nach Dr. R. v. Lendenfeld's Aufnahme. Scale 1 : 100,000
or 1 *3 geographical miles to an inch.
Original-Skizze des Kosciusco Gebirges von Dr. R. von Lendenfeld.
Scale 1 : 250,000 or 3*4 geographical miles to an inch.
MiiUer*s Peak. Scale 1 : 100,000 or 1 * 3 geographical miles to an inch.
Petermann's 'Geographische Mitteilungen,' Erganzungsheft No. 87, Tafel 2.
CHARTS.
TTnited States Charts.— Na 1030. Port Culebra, West Coast of Costa Rica.
Price It. 3(2.— No. 1032. Piedra Blanca Bay, West Coast of Costa Rica. Price
1*. Sd,—No. 1034. Gulf of Nicoya, West Coast of Costa Rica. Price la. 8d.—
Pilot Chart of the North Atlantic Ocean, July 1887. Published at the Hydro-
graphic Office, Navy Department, Washington, D.C. J. R. Bartlett^ Commands
U.S.N., Hydrographer to the Bureau of Navigation.
ATLASES.
Berghans* Physikaliseher Atlas (begriindet 1836 von Heinrich Berghaus).
75 Karten in sieben Abteilungen, enthaltend mehrere hundert Darstellongen
uber Geologic, Hydrographie, Meteorologie, Erdmagnetismus, Pflanzenverbreitung,
Ticrverbreitung und Ydlkerkunda» Vollstandig neu bearbeitet and unter Mit-
530
KEW MAPS.
wirkuns von Bn Oscar DnnJe, Dr. Georg Gerland, Dr. Jalius Ilann, Dr. G.
Hartlaub, Dr. W. Marshall, Dr. Gcorg Neuaiayer, und Dr. Karl v, Zittel
herausgegeben von Professor Dr. Hermann Bergbaos. Zebnte Liefening* Cod-
taintng maps Nos. 32, 51, and 72, Gotba, Justus Pertbes, 1887. Price 3s. eacb
part, (Dfdau,)
8beet No. 32 contains a Mercitor'a proj^^ction of ibe Wurld on wLicb ia laid
down tbe mean aQnual barotnotrlc pressure^ and three luset maps are given
fbowiDg tbe iBobars for Europe on an enlarged scale, the mean daily
range of tbe barometer for tbe World, and tbe mean of the lowest reailinga*
Slicet Ko. 61 contains two maps of tbe World on the elliptical projection,
oti which are ahown tbe diflVrent regions where food -producing planta
exist* Sheet No. 72 ia an ethnographical map, showing tbe original locations
of tbe tribes of Indiaos in North and South America. The maps, as usual in
this atlas, are beantifully drawn ; the symbols and colours used are, however,
so numerous that great care and some previous study are ueocssuy to avoid
mistakes.
Japan.-^Atlas von . Sieben Blatter im Massstabe von 1 : 1,000,000 or 13'6
geograpbical miles to ao inch, iind eine Ubersichtskarte im Massstabo vou
1 : 7,500,000, or 102*7 geographical miles to an inch, entworfen end gezeicbnet
von Bruno Hassenstein. Zweite (Scblnss-) Abteilung in 4 BL (Sekt- V.-VXl.) ;
Nord'Nippon, Yes^o u. Kurilen. Ylll. Ubersichtakarte Im Mossstabo von
1 : 7,500,000. Gotha, Justus Perthes, 1887. Price 12*. (Dulau,)
This issue completes Herr Ilassenstein's admirable Atlas of Japan. In tbe
I preface the author acknowledges the sources from which his inlormation is
drawn, and in turu gives an hi^storica! sketch of that portion of Japan which is
represented on each sheet. Sheet V. includes all that portion of Nippon north
of the thirty-eij^hth decree of north latitude, and part of southern Yesao. i^beet
YL includes the whole of the Island of Yesso, with the exception of iis eastern
I extremity, which with the Kuril Islands is given on sheet Vli. Biieet Vlil. is
a general map of Japan on a reduced scale^oa which political divisions and all
means of cornmunicalion are kid down. The maps are beautiful sriecimens
of cartography, the hill-work being shaded in brown, and the lowland coloured
green ; the lettering is very clear, heights are given in English feet, And
i ioundings in both metres and fathoms. In the projections the longitude is
* given from Paris and Greenwich.
Stanford, E. — London Atlas of Universal Geography, Londoo, E, Stanford, 1887.
Price 12^
s?r!:iT^
PROCEEDINGS
OF THB
ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
AND MONTHLY RECOBD OP GEOGRAPHY.
A Journey in Manchuria.
By H. E. M. James, of the Bombay Civil Service.
(Bead at the Evening Meeting, June 6th, 1887.)
Kap, p. 594.
I THINK it may interest the Society to know that my companions and
I have to thank one who is well known here, I mean Mr. Archibald
Colquhoun, for the first suggestion of Manchuria as a field for travel.
Wo had originally planned an expedition in southern China, but we
chose Manchuria on learning that it was but little known, that the
climate and chances of sport were alike good, that the people were
pleasant to deal with, and also because wo hoped to see something of
the Russians on the frontier. I fear my observations will not have that
scientific character which befits a paper read in this place, but none of
the observations taken on the journey have yet been worked out, so I
must necessarily confine myself to a simple account of our doings.
Manchuria is that part of Tartary which occupies the north-eastern
comer of the Chinese Empire, being bounded on the north and east
by Russia, and on the south by Korea, the Yellow Sea, and the Gulf of
Liau-tung. The name signifies the country of the Manchu Tartars. It
has, however, never been applied in the extensive sense that foreigners
use it, cither by Manchus or Chinese. Occasionally the term Shing-king,
which is, properly speaking, merely the translation of the Manchu
word Mukden,* the southern capital of Manchuria, is applied by the
Chinese to the whole country from the sea to the Amur, but the
ordinary name is Tang-san-sh6ng, or the three eastern provinces :
that is to say, the province of Liau-tung in the south, of which Mukden
is the capital ; Eirin in the centre with a capital of the same name ; and
the province of Helung-kiang, or Black Dragon river (the Chinese
word for the Amur), in the north, vdth capital Tsitsihar. Liau-tung,
which is more generally known as F^ng-tien, or "Heaven ordained"
(as it has been " ordained " as the source of the preseut ruling
* i e. FlonriBhing Capital
No. IX.— Sept. 1887.] 2 q
532
A JOURNEY IN MANCBURLi.
dynasty), is densely populated, and is computed to contain twelve or
tkirteen millions of people. Eirin contains probably eight millions, and
Tsitsibar jierbaps twomillionB, I base tbese figures on calculations mado
hy a former Britisb Consul at Kow-chwang, who went into tbe question
with a good deal of care, and a missionary, whom I consulted, comes to
much the same conclusion, Tho total area of Manchuria (inclusive of a
patch of Mongolia on the north-west, which is included in Tsitsihar) is
about 380,000 square miles. It is therefore larger than the Austrian
Empire and Great Britain and Ireland put together* In India it "would
be called non regulation territuiy. Though the law administered is the
same as in China Proper, and in the more settled parts there is the same
civil organisation, yet the administration is essentially a military one,
and the chief appointments are all held by Manchu military officers.
Originally the governor, or Tartar general of each province, horo the
same title, viz* Kiang-kun (Chiang*chiin), but a few years ago the
exaltod Chinese title of Ttsuog-tti, or governor-general, was conferred
on the guvemor of Mukden, and the other two governors are now
subordinate to him. IIo used also to be commander-in-chief as well as
head of the civil administration, but in November 1885 a special com-
mander-in-chief named Mu was appointed to reorganise the forces in
Manchuria, who is independent of the governor-gene ral. In the province
of Feog-tien the titles and grades of officials, magistrates, and the like are
j^reciJsely the same as in China Proper, It is only in the outlying districts
of the centre and north that military and civil functions are found
united in the same persons.
Ftng-tien actually adjoins the province of Chihli in which Pekin
itself is situated, and has always been comparatively civilised, bearing
much the same relation to the wild hilly tracts in the north and east
that Bengal does to Assam and Bhutan. For centuries it was subject
to Korea, then a warlike and powerful stata, but since the eighth centur}^
it has, except during one brief interval, been incorporated with China.
The other two provinces did not come under the direct control of Pekin
till 1644, when the Manchus conquered the Chiacso Empire. With a
very sparse indigenous population of Tartar hunters these two provinces
w^ero reserved until comparatively recent times, partly as a nursery
for Tartar soldiers, but mainly as a place for the transportation of
criminals, and it is only since 1820 that colonists have been permitted
to settle there. For a long time after that date life and property
were so insecxire that the development of the country has been very
slow, but during the last twenty years great progress has been made.
Kirin and Tsitsihar are, however, still used as a kind of Botany Bay, not
only for criminals properly so called, but for ill-behaved mandarins. In
consequence the administrntion is feeble and corrupt, and the cotrntiy
swarms with a mnltitude of evil characters.
Manchuria (for I will continno tonso the name adopted by Westerns)
I
A JOURN£Y IN MANCHURIA. 533
is essentially a highland country, a land of mountain and river, forest
and swamp. The whole of the south and east is occupied by consider-
able ranges of hills, the tops and slopes of which are covered with dense
woods, and which geographers have christened Chang-pai Shan,
literally, Long White Mountains, or else Shan-alin, which is part of the
Manchu word for the same thing. The mountaineers, however, give each
separate ridge or conspicuous hill a separate name, and confine the title of
Long White Mountain to the principal peak in the region. The ranges
appear as if they had come into existence on the most incoherent
system, running in one part from north to south and elsewhere from
east to west. They form part of a series of low volcanic hills from three
thousand to six thousand feet in height, which extend on the south far
into Korea, and on the west into the Eussian maritime province as far as
the Sea of Okhotsk. The only really plain country is found in a fertile
alluvial tract in Feng-tien, which is watered by the river Liau, and
again to the north and west of Eirin, where the Nonni drains a vast area
of undulating Mongolian steppes. North of the lower reaches of the
Sungari, the hills form part of a separate system also volcanic, and
which are in fact outlying spurs of the Khin-gan range. The principal
rivers are the Liau, Yalu or Ai Chiang, the Sungari or Sung-hwa Chiang,
the Nonni, and the Hurka or Mutan Chiang. The Liau rises in Mongolia
and flows into the Gulf of Liau-tung, close to the treaty port of New-
chwang. The next three rise within a comparatively few miles of one
another in the most remote recesses of the Ch'ang-pai Mountains.
The Yalu flows west into the Yellow Sea ; the T*um^n flows into the
Japan Sea, and the two together form part of the boundary between
Manchuria and Korea. The Sungari — which is by far the largest, being
navigable by large junks as far as Kirin — is one of the most con-
siderable tributaries of the Amur. The Nonni, flowing due south, and
the Mutan Chiang, due north, are its main affluents.
On the map are marked two barriers of palisades, one com-
mencing at the Great Wall and passing by Yu-shih-tung-tzu and Kuan-
chang-tzu to Fa-ta-ha^man, and the other starting from Fung-whang-
chang on the Korean border, and meeting the first not very far
from Kai-yuen. These palisades were built by the Ming dynasty about
four centuries ago. They consisted of long lines of wooden chevaux de
friso, in the shape of a St. Andrew's cross, and made it difficult for men,
and especially for cavalry, to pass, except through gates at various
intervals. They were intended to protect Liau-tung from the Mongols
on the north and the Manchus on the east. At the present day they
have disappeared entirely, though a mound or row of trees occasionally
marks the place where they stood. The gateways, however, are still
maintained as customs posts, at which transit duties are levied.
Manchuria has a history of its own, though space allows but a brief
allusion to it. I daresay most people are aware Manchuria is the
2 Q 2
534
A JOURNEY IN MANCHCRU.
cradle of tlie exiisting rlynasty af China ; but it is not equally well
known that China has heen conquered twice before by Tartars from this
region. About odo hnii(3red years before onr William the Conqoeror, a
tribe called the Ketaa invaded China, and took possession of the throne,
udopting the title of Lian, it is said, from the river in Feng-tien. In
!e68 than two htiridred years they, in their tnrn, were driven out by the
Nen-chin, another tribe from the same neighbourhood, who called
themselves the Kin, or golden dynasty, and who were npset in the
thirteenth century by Ghenghis Khan, the 3Iougolian " Scourge of the
World." The Mongols were overthro'WTi by a Cliinese rebel towards the
end of the fourteenth century, who founded the Ming dynasty ; and when
that had lasted nearly 300 years, came the present Tartar dynasty.
It will thus be seen that during six out of the last nine centxiries
China» at any rate North China, has been ruled by foreigners.
The history of Chinn, in fact» is the history of most Oriental
monarchies : a po%verful tribe under a powerful head conquers the
country, and for one or two generations rules it wisely and firmly.
Gradually luxury' creeps into the court; the princes Income dissolute
and effete; the administration falls into a state of degradation and
inefficiency ; and thea the collapse of the dynasty is ocly a matter of
time. Such was the case in the year 1643, when the last Ming emperor
was on the throne* A common brigand, named Li-tsu-chung, headed a
successful rebellion and took l^ekin. The emperor committed suicide, and
the rebel proclaimed himself in his stead. Then came the opportunity
of the Manchus, About sixty years before the fall of the Mings a chief
had ax-isen who had conqweretl and confiolidated into one i>owerful state
all the miscellaneous Tartar clans who inhabited the country outside
the palisades. ITis name was Nurh-hoHL'hib, and he liv*ed in a remote
valley on the Su-tzii Ho, about 90 miles east of Mukden and 60 from the
then Chinese frontier. Only six or seven small villages owned him as lord.
It hapi>ened that his father and grandfather were betrayed by another
Manchu to the Chinese, and Nurh-ho-chih resolved to avenge them.
He ooUected a few followers and attacked the tribes with whom the
traitor took refuge one after the other. Eventually he succeeded in his
vengeful quest, but the delights of victory^ led him on to further conquests
till he had made himself master of the whole of Manchuria outside the
Chinese boundar}-. He spent some time organising a good administra-
tion, in the courise of which he gave his countrTj'men, for the first time,
a written alphabet. At last he felt himself sufficiently strong to attack
China, and before ho died, in the year 1 626, he had made himself master
of the Chinese province of Feng-tien, His sncceesor continued hai-asaing
the Chinese till the downfall of the Ming dynasty, when Wn-san-
Irwei, who had been appointed by the Emperor to command on the Man-
chnrian frontier, sent over to his quondam enemy inviting him to come
and avenge hifi deceased lord. 0?er]oyed, the Manchu accepted the
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA. 685
offer, marched on to Pekin, and in tho year 1644 the present dynasty was
proclaimed in the person of Nurh-ho-chih's grandson, a boy of six.
The story cannot fail to remind a student of history of the rise of
Sivajee, the Mahratta hill robber, who undermined, and whose successors
destroyed, the Mogul Empire of India. Naturally, ever since the capture
of Fekin, Manchuria has been (and it was so in the case of the two
previous Tartar dynasties) the great recruiting ground for the Imperial
army. Thus, it has always been in a state of depletion of its best blood
and suffered greatly in consequence. But of recent years, as I said
before, Chinese cultivators from Shang-tung, Ghihli, and other northern
provinces of China, have flocked into it in large numbers — so much so,
that for one Manchu that is now to be seen, there are probably twenty
Chinese. Nearly all special Manchu customs have disappeared ; except
in the army, the Tartar hat has disappeared like the hat of the old
women in Wales, and the language itself is now only spoken in a few
remote valleys; in fact, two teachers of Manchu had actually to be
imported from Pekin to Kirin two years ago on the express ground
that the few Manchus who had any knowledge of their own language
were all wanted as official clerks. Imagine the getter-up of a Welsh
Eisteddfod sending to London for a couple of bards to speak Welsh, and
the parallel is complete. With the language, the alphabet also is dis-
appearing, and the clumsy barbarous Chinese hieroglyphics are replac-
ing it. It is the old story over again, " Grs&cia capta ferum victorem
cepit." So much so, that the late Consul of New-chwang, Mr. Meadows,
a gentleman of keen observation, declared it was impossible to dis-
tinguish Manchus from Chinese by their features or general appear-
ance ; but in this I think he went a little too far. When a large body
of them are seen together the difference of race can, if I mistake not,
be seen at once, as Manchiis look more like the Newars or the Ghoorkas
of Nepaul than typical Chinamen. They are generally short and good-
looking, brown as Italians or Sikhs, with high cheek-bones, dark rosy
cheeks, and large brown eyes, which are but little oblique. Never-
theless, looks apart, they are to all intents and purposes Chinamen.
I am bound to say the discovery caused ourselves a little disappoint-
ment. We expected to see a fine wild savage race, picturesquely
dressed, riding furiously on gallant horses, the heaux'idM» of barbario
manliness, instead of a population of ordinary stolid Chinamen. In
one point, however, Manchus do maintain a distinction which puta
them far above the Chinese : they do not mutilate their women's feet,
and to this day no woman with crashed feet may enter the Imperial
court. When they took China they ordered the men to shave their
foreheads, to plait their back hair in pigtaila, and also to wear narrow
instead of wide sleeves to their coats, and they ordered the women
not to torture their little girls by cramping their feet. The men meekly
submitted, but the ladies indignantly refosed. And I need scaroely tay
536
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA.
that then, as sioce, it was found hopeless trying to roform barbarous
female faBhion wlien the ladies had mado up their minds aboiit it.
Manchus still enjoy certain privileges. Every male who arrives
at the age of puberty, as soon ae he can draw the bow, ia enrolled in
pne of eight coi-ps of militia, called Banners^ from each corps carrying
distinctive flag. This entitles bim to receive a retaining fee of
1 taelj say 5*. Od, a month. He is given lan<l to cultivate rent-free,
which he generally sublets to a Chinaman^ and if he is employed on
active military service he gets from 5 to 7 tads a month. The result
is, the Manchua, instead of taking to honest work, are mostly hangers-
on about yam 6ns (or public offices), picking up odd l>its of work,
and trying for permanent official employment. They take to dissipation
and gambling, and become disreputable members of society- General
Hu is, however, now converting a largo number of these idle
militiamen into regulars ; and the race has produced, and produces, as
good civil officials ever3^ whit as the Chinese. I have brought a Manchu
bow and arrows for those to see who are curious about such things. It
is singular that a race which is wise enough to manufacture repeating
rifles and to buy Krupp cannon tshould still employ a considerable
number of archers. The bow and arrow drill is very amusing to see.
One word more about the history of Manchuria, Until the year 1858
a line running for about 1000 miles north of tlie Amur river at a dis-
tance of from 500 to 1000 miles from it, and continuing down the coast
as far as the Corean frontier, marked the boundary of the Chinese pos-
sessions as fixed by treaty with Russia, and the navigation of the Amur
by the Eussians was not permitted* During the Crimean war, however,
they were obliged to use that road for victualling their settlements in
Kamstehatka, so numerous expeditions were sent down the river, and
posts established all aloug its bank. In 1858, China being tlien in the
throes of the Tae-ping rebellion, Euesia called on her to legalise what had
been done, and the whole of the country on the left bank of the Amur
was ceded to her. Two years later, in 1860, when in addition to the
Tae-ping rebellion the English and French armies were before Pekin,
Russia, anxious to obtain an outlet for her Siberian trade leas liable to
be closed by the ice than porta in the Sea of Okhotsk, requested the
Emperor Hien-fung to make her over the tract between the river Usuri
and the sea. The countiy^ was then practically worth nothing to China,
and she gave it up quietly. History will yet show whether Russia acted
wisely in overstepping such a capital boundary as the Amur. Some
people indeed think that Russia would not mind taking another slice of
Manchuria if the occasion offered: others believe that the Chinese,
having been successful ia recovering Kuldja, might, if opportunity
offisred, try and recover the sea-coast strip. And even though both
bides may desire peace, the best friends are liable to fall out when
crowded too close together.
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURU. 537
Manchuria certainly is a most delightful country. In the summer
the climate is delicious, that is when it does not rain. It is occasionally
hot, but we never felt anything worse than 87° in the shade. The
winter is certainly severe. In the south the thermometer goes down
to — 15** Fahr., and in the north to — 48° Fahr., but the cold
weather is extremely bracing and healthy, and at that season the frozen
roads make admirable highways for a vast amount of traffic. During
the rest of the year they are miry and impracticable. It is very fertile,
but I need not give a list of all the crops that are grown, as they differ
but little from the crops of northern China generally. I may, however
name three, the bean, the small millet, and the poppy. Of the first
there are innumerable varieties, and the oil extracted from them forms
the staple export of the country. The hsiau-mi or small millet has a tiny
grain like canary seed, and when boiled makes first-rate porridge, as I can
gratefully testify. The l)oppy grows luxuriantly, and the native grown
opium has almost completely ousted the Indian drug. The imports of
the latter into Manchuria in the year 1866 amounted to 572,000Z. ; in
1885 they amounted to only 31,300Z., and opium is grown not only -for
local consumption, but for distribution in parts of northern and central
China. This fact will show that the opium question, which has exercised
so many philanthropists in the past, is in a fair way of settling
itself, though not in the precise way perhaps that the philanthropists
wish. The Chinese are openly growing the drug for themselves, and
the taste for Indian opium is disappearing in favour of the home article,
iust as in India Trichinopoly cheroots have of late completely ousted
Manillas. So now that the Che-fu Convention has come into force,
which has in fact, though perhaps not in name, imposed an additional
duty on the Indian article, it is almost safe to prophesy that in a short
time the Indian trade will be seriously affected, and the use of the
Indian drug will be confined to a few wealthy (^ounncte. The Indian
ryot will suffer, having to make good a deficit of some millions sterling,
while the whole population of China, instead of as now only a part of
it, will in future enjoy the luxury of opium smoking. Admitting that
there are many evils connected with opium, I may add that I can only
remember meeting two persons who had ruined themselves in health by
it, and that some experienced foreigners whom wo met were of opinion
that taken in moderation on a full stomach it is no worse than tobacco.
The mineral wealth of Manchuria is very great. In one spot we
found iron and gold within a few miles of one another, and we were told
that there was also a silver mine close by. There is also abundance of
very good coal and peat. A good deal of gold is exported, but mining
is strictly contrary to the law, and the day before we arrived at Sansing
a man was executed for it. Notwithstanding, in remote parts where the
mandarins dare not go, a great deal of mining, or rather washing, is
carried on.
538
A JOUKNEY IN MANCHURIA,
The forests also are very valuable, the pme trees, walnute, oak, and
elm being conspicuous for their size. The trees are floated down the
rivers during tho rains, and from the mouth of tbe Yalii alone vast
qiiautities are exported over the wbolo of China*
Minor prmliicts, of great value in the ©yes of the Chinese, are invs^
ginseng, and deer-liorns, Tho hilla yield a great deal of very fine sable,
and the tiger and lynx skina are magnificent, tho severity of the climate
making the fur groiv far longer than in a tropical country like India.
Tho root of the wild ginseng ia a medicine very highly esteemed,
and Bclls fur about lOi. to 20L an ounce. In tho interior of the
Oh*ang-pai Mountains we saw companies, twelve or fifteen young men
in each, scouring the valleys and glens in search of the plant; one
or two roots will repay them for a season^s lalMUr* A great deal of
cultivated ginseng is grown, but the value of it is very small, only 5».
or (i«. a ponnd. Extraordinary virtues are attributed to this plant, and
I am not sure they are altogether moonehine. A friendly innkeeper
once gave us a little chopped into fine ehreds, of which wo made tea,
and certainly it proved very useful in case of Btomach-ache. Lastly, tiio
deer-horns, which form an important article in tho Chinese pharma-
copoeia, may be mentioned. If secured a short time after the horn has
sprouted, that ia to say, when it ia ouly about a foot long and full of
blood, the Chinese are ready to pay almost any price for it One pair
was shown to us for which 50/. had been refused.
It is time, however, that I should give some account of our journey
itself. I was accompanied from India by Mr, Younghuaband, whose
taste for travel is hereditary, as he is nephew to Mr. Shaw, the first
English explorer of Yarkaud and Kashgar. We were joined in China
by Mr. H. Fulford, a young officer in the Consular aervice, to whom the
Charge-d*afFaires kindly gave leave. lie spoke Chinese capitally, a for-
tunate thing for U8, On the 19th May we Btarfced from Ying-teu, known in
official language as Kow-chwang, the name of a town 30 miles further up
the Liau river. Ke^v-chwang indeed waa the port originally, but owing
to the rapid accretion of land at the mouth of the Liau the shipping
gradually moved down the river. Still, an Lord Elgin's Treaty con-
tains the name Now-chwang, that name has l>een applied ever since to
the town where the British Consul resides* We first went to Mukden,
120 mileB to tho north, a large wiilled city containing 200,000 kihabit-
anta. After the conquest of Liau-tung, Ntirh-ho-chih fixed on this as
hia capital. It contains an Imperial palace, where the relics of the
hero are said to be kept. On two hills in tho neighbourhood, surrounded
by sombre groves of pine, and adorned with fine triumphal arches and
monuments of various kinde, tho Great Ancestor, as the dynasty rightly
calls him, and his son are buried* Before the conquest of China,
Nurh-ho-chih had, in imitation of the Miogs, created various Boards
or departments for the conduct of the adminiatration, and the fiction
is still kept up, though nowadays Blukden is only a provincial town, and
•
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA. 639
has not been honoured with an Imperial visit for upwards of forty
years. The Manchu Emperor constructed also Temples of Heaven and
Earth in imitation of those at Pekin, but these, though still existing,
have been allowed to decay. At Mukden we hired twenty mules, to
which we had afterwards to add six more, for in the hills it was neces-
sary to reduce the loads to the smallest dimensions. Wo carried a small
Kabul tent which was very useful occasionally when camping out
in the forests, though we generally succeeded in finding a hunter's
hut, while in the cultivated country wherever there were farms
there were inns — of a kind. The Chinese resemble the Americans in
this respect — wherever they make a new settlement the first thing
they do is to establish an inn, which fulfils the joint purposes of a
saloon, a grocery, and a dry goods store ; and though I will not say
the accommodation is luxurious, still travellers may bo thankful
for it.
From Mukden we turned due east up the valley of the Hun, a large
affluent of the Liau, through a most beautiful and well-wooded valley.
The second day we passed Fu-shun-chang, formerly the frontier
town of China, and the first which the Manchiis attacked. We then
followed the Su tzu Ho, a tributary of the Hun, passing Sarhu, the
scene of the greatest and most decisive battle between the Manchus and
the Chinese, an account of which in Manchu and Chinese is inscribed on
a fine marble slab erected on the spot. About 16 miles further we
passed an ancient palace, and then Yung-ling, a village filled with
soldiers, who guard a hill on which are situated the tombs of Nurh-ho-
chih's ancestors. Three or four miles beyond stands Yenden or Hing-
King, the " capital of prosperity," now a pretty village, with decaying
gates and walls, containing an insignificant yamSn or government office.
This was Nurh-ho-chih's second but most celebrated capital ; from which
he went out to fight at Sarhu. Two miles south are the remains of
Lao-cheng, his first capital.
Settlers are now taking up their abode in great numbers in the
adjoining valleys, and the forests are rapidly falling before the axe. The
scenery in the neighbourhood is marvellously beautiful — woods and
flowers and grassy glades — and to the lover of nature it is simply a
paradise. The first day I began to collect I found no less than five
kinds of lilies of the valley, and it was common to see whole hill-sides
covered with masses of that delicious flower, which is such a favourite
in England. Beautiful mandarin ducks haunted every pool and stream,
and from the mountain tops the cock-pheasant's crow was heard on
all sides. We had, however, started just a little too late, for the spring
rains were even then beginning, and the roads were becoming difficult.
We followed the Su-tzu Ho to its source in the hills, crossed the water-
shed, and on the ninth day after leaving Mukden arrived at T'ung-hwa-
hsien, the seat of a resident magistrate; it is situated on the Hun
Chiang, an affluent of the Yalu, which came down in flood and stopped
6^0
A JOURNEY IN MAKCHURIA.
our progress for some days. Hardly liad we suoceeded in passing it
bofore we were again detained by ooo of its tributaries, and it was not
till nearly a month after leaving Mukden tliat we reached Mau-crh Shan,
which is the farthest Chineso outpost on tho Yalu, and garrisoned by
200 men* We had intended following, if possible, tho Yalu up to its
source, crossing the watershed and descending the valley of the T*um^n,
but we found this was quite impracticable. Above Mau-erh Shan, the
river passes under a euooession of lofty and precipitous cliffs, and
though a few colonists have penetrated into the valleys beyond to cut
wood, communication is almost entirely cut off, except in the winter,
when the river is frozen over. We learned, however, that by crossing
the mountain chain on our left, we should find a path practicable
for mules, which would take us to the head waters of the Sungari,
and then across another range into the T*um^n valley, so we turned
our faces northwards. We followed Number Two of the upper
affluents of the Yalu (the Chinese number them instead of giving
them distinct names), and two days brought us to the top of the
Lao-ling, as the range is called which separates the Sungati basin
from the Yalu. The pass was 3000 feet high, and on the far side we
came on the head waters of the Tang Ho, a fine affluent of tho Sun gar i.
The path here, and indeed all the time we were in the mountains, was
very narrow, and in places difficult. Occasionally it passed along hill-
faces where the earth had fallen away in a landslip, and it looked as
if tho next step would bring the whole hill-side down together. At
pther times, torrents of sufficient depth and violence to sweei> a mule
its legs, had to be crossed fifteen or twenty times in a morning;
but these were trifles compared with the swamps. Frequently we
have had half the mules down at once, rolling their packs and
themselves in the mud. While all hands were turned to assist
tho first that fell, the others would feel themselves getting bogged,
and when struggling to get free would tumble themselves in the
mire. The good temper and patience of the mule drivers, how-
ever, were quite imperturbable, and we always got tlirough somehow.
Tho only real accident we bad was caused by the ground giving way
under a mule, and tumbling it and one of the men into a swollen
river. The man was a good deal hurt, but he recovered, and
only a few stores were damaged. Constantly we had to halt in
narrow places while the path was being enlarged %vith axe, pickaxe,
or sjiade to enable tho mules to get along at all. One very hot day a
mule, carrying a great deal of silver, got tired of waiting, and plunged
into the swoOen Y'alu, there 350 yards wide, lie swam some distance
from the shore, but fortunately returned, and the pack, which was,
after Chinese fashion, merely slung across the mule's back and not
fastened in any way, tumbled off in shallow water; a few yardi further
out, and our loss would have been considerable.
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA. 641
The fourth day from Man-erh Shan brought us to the main stream
of the Sungari, at its junction with the Tang Ho. We were now
within the precincts of the Long White Mountains. In theory they
are supposed to be sacred to the ancestors of the reigning dynasty,
and it is sacrilege to trespass in them. Only a few months ago
the official Peking Gazette published a report from the Governor
of Kirin, that in obedience to standing orders he had carefully
searched all the ravines in the Ch*ang-pai Shan to see if any wicked
people were seeking for ginseng, and he had found the country quite
quiet and free from intruders. As a matter of fact, the mandarins
never dream of going into the mountains, and settlements are being
founded rapidly. The colonists form themselves into associations or
guilds, with presidents, vice-presidents, and councils, who legislate for
the community, and exercise powers of life and death. The existence
of these guilds is known to the authorities of Kirin, who occasionally
call on them, and not unsuccessfully, for assistance in hunting robbers ;
yet theoretically, as I have said, they have no existence before the
law. Some items in their legislation are peculiar, but practicaL One
proclamation which we saw warned people not to harbour certain bad
characters, whose names were given. A second forbade Koreans to fish.
The Koreans, be it noted, are employed in large numbers as agricultural
labourers by the settlers, who want them, so they said, to labour in the
fields, and not waste their time in sport. A third was for regulating
the trade in ginseng, and forbade any person buying or selling it before
a certain date. The penalty for transgression of that law is, in the case of
a rich person, a fine to the guild of one pound of rice (a luxury in the
hills), ten taels in money, and two pigs, weighing at least seventy-five
pounds each. If the ofiender be an outsider, and therefore moneyless and
unable to pay the fine, he is to be beaten to death with sticks. This law
was for the protection of zealous ginseng seekers, who sought the more
remote valleys, and occasionally found the market forestalled by hunters
returning before the season was fairly over. The guilds are most
efficient institutions, and the only place within Manchuria where
life and property may be said to be really secure is within their limits ;
although, from the configuration of the country and the vast area of
forests with which it is covered, robbers would, under ordinary cir-
cumstances, find there a safe refuge.
It was now time to search for the snowy peaks, which, we under-
stood from the map attached to the Bev. Alexander Williamson's book,
• Journeys in North China,' from Mr. Bavenstein, and other sources, must
be in the neighbourhood — snowy peaks from 10,000 to 12,000 feet high*
Alas, the vice-president of the guild told us that there was not such a
thing in Manchuria. There was, however, he said, a very celebrated
mountain, the Lao-pai Shan, or Old White Mountain proper, about ten
or twelve days' march off, frx)m the top of which sprang the Talu, the
542
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA*
T*iiiiien, and the Sungaru If we liked ho could guide us theroi but tlie
road was very clifficult to find, and 1ir must conio himself. Wo accepted
hia ofler, loaded two mules veiy ligLtly and started, taking only one
Bervant with us, and a boy to lead tlio mules over tlio liad bits. The
track led over a BUcceseion of ranges covered witli forest, so dense and
so continuous, that it was quite a relief when we came to tb© Sungari
or one of ita affluents and got a breath of fiesh air. At intervals of 15
miles would be found the hut of a ginseng cultivator, or a hmiter of deer-
borus and sable. Two such were situated iu the craters of ancient vol-
canoes^ which time has now clothed as thickly with trees as any part of
the region. We found the mountaineers exccediugly hospitable and
friendly t as real sportsmen invariably are, though their huts were so small
that we found it a tight fit at nighf* We were obliged to sleep cheek
by jowl with them on the little kang or brick platform, which is heated
by the fire that cooka the food, and serves the purpoae of stove, drawiog-
room, dining-room, and bed-room, Keally, sometimes wo were packed
just like sardines, but unless a Chinaman got his foot in one's eye, as
happened sometimes, we slept peaceably enough. The weather was
hot, and occasionally w*e had to carry the mules' loads for them over bad
places, but we found plenty of wild strawberries, and a kmd of delicious
bleaberry or barberry growing in great quantities, which was very
refreshing.
The fifth day after leaving T*ang-bo-ko we had to dispense with the
mules, as the bogs beyond were absolutely i in passable for any beast of
burden whatsoever. Wo reduced our necessaries as much as possible,
and the rest we made up into packs, which we carried ourselves with the
aid of a hunter, a very good fellow, who volunteered to come and help
us. It may be thought w^o should have brought more attendants, but
the Imts would not have held them, and besides, supplies were so scanty
in the hills, that, although the hunters were extremely generous in
giving UB dried deer's flesh and other trifles, a larger party oonld
not possibly have obtained food. We now came to a swamp pure
and simple, and boggy glens, where first we &aw extonBivo gioves
of larch. At last, on the ninth day after leaving the guild, we began the
ascent of the ]ong-wished-for mountain. The lower slopes are covered
with forests of birch and pine, but these gradually grew less dense, until
we emerged on a most delightful grassy plateau dotted with trees. To us
it was like being transported into the Garden of Eden. The forests had
certainly not been devtud of flowers, and some fine turn-cap lilies and
orchids and bluebells had lit up their gloom ; biit now we came upon rich,
open meadows, bright w^ith flowers of every imaginable colour, where
sheets of blue iris, great scarlet tiger-lilies, sweet-scented yellow day-
liliea, huge orange buttercups, or purple monkshood delighted the eye.
And beyond were bits of park-like country, 'with groups of spruce and
fir beautifully dotted about, the soil covered with short mossy grass, and
I
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA. 648
spangled with great masses of deep blue gentian, columbines of every shade
of mauve or buflf, orchids white and red, and many other flowers. One
gem of a meadow was sprinkled with azaleas bearing small yellow flowers,
which looked at a distance like gorse* Now for the first time, and up
above us through the trees, we could see the ragged needle-like peaks of
the Old White Mountain. As we marched along the plateau we heard
the sound of subterranean streams rushing madly underground, and in
one place we crossed a deep gully by a natural bridge, the banks of
which approached so closely that we could almost jump across, while
peering over we could see the mountain torrent roaring far below like the
river Beas at its source. It would be very easy for a careless walker to
slip into one of these hidden watercourses and lose his life.
Finally we arrived at a cottage called T*ang-shan, at the base of a
grassy hiU which slopes down from the final heights of the Pai Shan. A
short distance there are two splendid cascades not very far apart, each
about 150 feet high, one of which is called by the natives the real source
of the Sungari proper. A mile or two away it forms a bum about ten
yards across, on the edge of which is a fine hot spring, 142° Fahr.
The evening we arrived we climbed a hill 700 feet above the plateau,
from which we had a grand view of the peaks. From this point of
view there appeared in sight two sharp peaks, with a saddle between
them, and the whole steep side below was shining white, but not
with snow, for there were only a few patches of it to be seen in clefts,
but of wet, disintegrated pumice stone, large lumps of which we bad
noticed on the banks of the Sungari on our road through the forests.
The westerly peak looks slightly the higher, but after ascending the
saddle we found it was lower than that on the east, which is a splendid
object — bold, sharp, and jagged. Beyond it, further to the east, on a
rock-broken sky-line, stands another conspicuous pinnacle, shaped like a
serpent's tooth, and from there the shoulder of the mountain slopes
gradually down till it reaches the plateau where the hut is situated.
The first day of our halt it rained, and we made the ascent the next*
We climbed the slope behind the house, up to our waists in luxuriant wet
grass, full of tiger-lilies and other gorgeous flowers, and across a stretch
of moorland perhaps two or three miles broad, covered with a dwarf white
rhododendron, a lovely little pink flower like an azalea, a pink heath,
and other flowers. Then we commenced the slope leading up to the
saddle. Even here, on the naked pumice, were clumps of wild yellow
poppies, dwarf saxifrage, a vetch, and other botanical treasures. It was
a steep climb, reminding one somewhat of Vesuvius, except that the rain
had consolidated the loose pumice. At last we got to the top and looked
over the edge, and lo ! at the bottom of a crater on whose brink we were
standing, about 350 feet below us, we saw a beautiful lake, its colour of
the deepest, most pellucid blue, and though the wind was howling above,
its surface as still as Lake Leman, reflecting the crown of fantastic peaks
541
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA.
with Tvbich tlio rugged top of tlie rnountaiii was adorned. It was indeed
a superb epectaclo. We judged the lake to bo about 1^ mile broad, and
six or seven miles in circumfereuco.
After enjoying the view for some time Mr. Fnlford and I attempted to
descend the crater. The hunter guide refused to accompany ue, because
ho said it was too steep, but he pointed out a place down which, ho
eaid, deer occasionally found their way to feed on tho grass, of which
there was a narrow fringe in one place between the water and the base
of tho cliff. Wo succeeded in getting down to about 60 feet fttrm
the bottom, through loose pumice and stones, but we wero suddenly
stopped by finding that, under the action of water, tho cliff which we
were dcBcending had crumbled a"way, and left eome 15 or 20 feet of
sheer perpendicular rock in front of us. If wo bad had a rope we miglit
have got to tho bottom without difficulty, but tho descent was too risky
without it, as the friable stone and the pumico it was embedded in gave
no secure foothold, Mr, Younghiisband, in tho meanwhile, had been
boiling his tliermomcter in a cleft lilled with snow, tho only place where
he oould escape from the wind, and then ho commenced the ascent of
the eastern peak. It was very steep, and not unaccompanied with
danger, as tho foothold was very uncertain, and had he slipped he might
have rolled over tho edge and dropped five or six hundred feet into tho
lake. However, he succeeded better than w^e did, and got up to tho highest
pinnacle, and crawled out to tho very edge of a peak of rock which
projects over tho lake like a bowsprit, and waved his hat to us. From
below it looked as if nothing but an eagle could find a resting-place in
such a position. He calculated tho height to bo 7525 feet, but alio win g^
for an error in tho reading of tlie boiling-point thermometer, w^hich we
subsequently discovered^ 500 feet must be added on to that. Tho view,
even from the saddle, of the surrounding country, was very fine. Far
away in Korea we could see forest*clad peaks which looked aa if they
might almost bo as high as the Pai-shan, but all tho hills in tho imme-
diate neighbourhood, including the Lau-ling, that is the range we crossed
after leaving tho Yalu, seemed pigmies in comparison. So farewell to
the idea of snowy peaks 10,000 or 12,000 feet high.
From tho north end of the lake there issues a small stream which is
the source of the Erh-tao-cliiang, or Second river, tho eastern branch
of tho iSungari, whoso confluence with tho main stream we visited a
few weeks later. The source of the Yalu was said to be about ten miles
off, that of the Tumen thirty, but we could not visit them, as our Bupplies
wero almost at an end, and had it not been for Mr, Fulford*8 skill in
shooting partridges we should have had very little to eat. Whenever
we heard a shot fired wo used to ask if it was an old one or a young
one, the old ones had so much more meat upon tliem. Tho birds used,
when flushed, to fly up into tho trees, and it required a very quick e^'o
to distinguish them in the boughs.
A JOURKEY IN MANCHURU. 545
The journey to the Pai-shan would have been perfectly enjoyable
had it not been for a plague which former writers on Manchuria have
alluded to— I mean the midges and gadflies. The misery caused by
insect pests is a stock theme with travellers, too common perhaps to call
for sympathy. And yet if there be a time when life is not worth
living I should say it was summer in the forests of Manchuria. The
midges are worst at night and in the early morning, though they
by no means object to the middle of the day also. Clouds of them almost
darken the air, and they bite like fiends. Mules and cattle are picketed
at night to the leeward of fires, so that the smoke may protect them.
At sundown all the doors and the windows of houses are shut tight,
though the smoke and summer heat are stifling. Often a fire must
be kindled as well on the floor, to fill the house with smoke, and when
full of Chinamen also the atmosphere in the early morning can be
better imagined than described. Men at the plough carry circlets of
iron on their heads, on which are stuck pieces of burning touchwood,
and pieces of it in their hands as well. Fortunately we had provided
ourselves with green gauze veils, which were invaluable when we went
to bed or when marching in the early morning, and at meals we enveloped
ourselves with smoke. The gadflies were less annoyance to ourselves
than to our beasts, as they invariably selected any that were sick or
tired. They did not appear till seven or eight in the morning, and
retired at sundown, so by marching before daylight a little respite was
obtained from their attacks. They were huge fat insects, and at this
distance of time they seem to me to have been as big as stag-beetles.
There are several kinds, one striped yellow and black, like a giant
wasp ; and the rapidity with which they can pierce a mule's tough hide
is inconceivable. In a few moments, before one could go to its assistance,
I have seen a wretched beast streaming with blood. Fortunately the
gadflies are very stupid and slow, and easily killed. I remember once
Mr. Fulford and I had to stand over a mule which had tumbled several
times down hill, and was quite exhausted, smashing the gadflies as they
settled with slabs of wood, until night came on. I have no idea how
many hundreds we killed, but we saved that mule's life. They did not
often bite men, but occasionally a busy, curious, thirsty gadfly would try
how a " foreign devil's " blood tasted, and then that " foreign devil "
jumped and made remarks.
We had intended to shoot big game in the hills, but we soon found
that sport and travel were not compatible. We saw tiger's " pugs," but
the jungle was far too thick to go after them. The hunters trap them in
cages, though some, as in India, worship them and will not hear of their
being disturbed. The preparations for the sable season were just com-
mencing. When the snow is on the ground, the sable, which is a
species of weasel, likes travelling along the trunks of dead trees to keep
his feet dry. So the hunters choose fallen timber or fell trees for the
54e
T IN MAXCHURIA.
purpofie, and drive a row of sharp pegs on each side along the top, the pegs
Ijeing a few inches apart, so as to make a kind of little avenue for the salile
to pass through. In the middle ie placed an ordinary fi^ire of four trap
from the t€>p of which a long sapling is suspended, which falls and crushes
the unfortunate animal. The doer are caught in pitfalls, lx>autifullj
hidden, into one of which Mr, Fulford tumbled one day. It was 16 or
18 feet deep, aod ho might have lieen seriously hurt. The black bears,
exactly the same beast in ajipearance aa that of Kafihrair, do a great
deal of damage by pulling the deer out of the pitfalls and devouring
them. We found ono in the act and article of finishing a magnificent
stag, with ten points to his antlers. It is a very serious matter when
the bear munches up a pair of horns worth 30/. or 40/. Unfortunately,
when we commenced carrying our kit, we had to leave our rifles behind,
or we might have had good bear-shooting.
A good many of the names io tbis region are Korean, and the hunters
told us that it is not many years since the last Koreans were ejected,
not without bloodshed.
After our return we looked at Da Haldo and found the following
account of the Fai Shan, which, it will bo seen, our visit corroborates
almost exactly. I quoto the English translation : —
** The mountain from wbich the Suogari derives its source is likewise the most
famous iQ Eastern Tartary. It lies mocli liigher than the rest, and may he seen at
a vast distance. One part of it l& covered with wood, and consists only in a «oft
gravel wlilcli looks always wliite. Therefore it is not the «eow that whitens it, as
the Chinese imagine, fur there never is any, at least in summer. On the top are five
rocks, which look like so many broken pyramids exceeding high, and arc always wet
with the peri)etual fogs and vapours tlmt condense around them, and in the middle
they enclose a deep lake, whence issues a fine fountain that forms the Sungari. The
Hanchus, to make the mountain a til I more wonderful, liave a curiona saying that it
is the mother of their great rivers, the Toumen, the Yaloo Oola, and Cihou Oula,
which liaviDg coasted the borders of Corea, unite and fall into the fiea of that
kingdom.
** But thm is not exactly true, as may be seen in the map, nor can the origin of
the rivers be attributed to the Chang Pei Shan, unless you include the neighbouring
moun tains that separate the kingdom of Corea from the ancient city of the
Manchus»"
This description is quoted from P^re Eegia, who with Peres Jartoux
and Fridelli surveyed jilanchuria for tho Emperor Kanghi in the year
1709. It is difficult to say whether it has been written by an eye-witness.
The three Fathers began their work on tho 8th of May, and went to
survey Pechili on the 10th of Uec^mber, and I am inclined to think they
could not have bad time in the interval to go to this remote mountain as
well as to visit tracts so widely apart as the countrj^ to the north of the
Amur, the Usuri, and Hunchun, wbich tbcy mention doing. Certainly
they could not, if they travelled together, as some expressions used
would imply they did. They necessarily had to trust much to hearsay,
A J0URNE7 IN MANCHURIA. 547
and it is scarcely accurate to describe the circle of peaks as " five broken
rocks." Moreover, the lake and mountain are not specifically marked on
their map. Still, whether the old Jesuits ever looked down on the blue
waters of the Lung Wang Tan or not, we may be sure it was not the
fault of their want of enterprise, and to them belongs the honour of first
revealing the existence of the lake to Europe. I may add that the
mountaineers talked of a boundary pillar not far away on the Korean
frontier, dating from the fifty- first year of the emperor Kanghi (1711),
just two years after the survey was finished, and that Pere Begis
alludes to this frontier as if it had been duly demarcated.
We returned to T*ang Ho Kou, the confluence of the river Tang with
the Sungari and the head-quarters of the guild, by the way we came,
without adventure, unless I may count a snake story as one. Our fol-
lowers and ourselves had been sleeping in a deserted Korean hut, and on
getting up in the morning, one of us saw the head of a snake peering out
between a bit of matting on which we had been sleeping and the wall.
We lifted up the matting, and there lay four big brown adders. They
were sluggish brutes, and made no attempt to escape, so we killed them,
and found all of them had poison fangs in their jaws. If they had
crawled over us in the night, one of us might easily have been bitten.
By this time it was raining nearly every day, and the rivers were in
high flood. The vice-president of the guild, Mr. Yen, told us it was
impossible to find our way to the valley of the T*um6n by the route we
had contemplated taking. I believe myself if supplies had been avail-
able we might just have succeeded in doing it, but the guild being short
themselves would give us none, and there was a risk of our being
caught between two rivei*s and starved. Mr. Yen then offered, if we
liked, to guide us through the mountains to Kirin^ and as the season was
advancing we thought it best to accept bis offer and go to Tsitsihar.
The track was difficult both to find and to follow, and I am bound
to say that Mr. Yen proved himself a good guide. We crossed, as before,
a seemingly endless succession of forest-clad hills and swampy valleys,
with occasional settlements. One valley in particular, that of the Sung
Ho, not far from our starting-point, was several miles across, covered with
the most magnificent crops of millet and Indian com I ever saw : but
places like this were oases in the desert. Three of the rivers could only
be crossed in dug-outs, the owners of which tried to extort extravagant
sums for the accommodation. In one instance we evaded the enemy by
taking a circuitous and very difficult route over a ridge, from which we
had a final and magnificent view of the peaks of the Pai Shan, shining
sixty or seventy miles away on the horizon. At another place we agreed
with one of the people for a handsome donation, but when our baggage
was across, another man tried to stop us, and threatened to send our
things back again if we did not give more. He soon saw, however, that
we would stand no nonsense, and we went on unmolested.
No. IX.— Sept. 1887.] 2 b
SiB
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA.
After a week's journey we came upon the Sungari again at a place
called Yii-si Hci Kou-tzu, a short distance from the place where the
jBrh-tao Chiang, or t-astern branch, joins it* It is here a splendid stroam,
OO yards broad, and the scenery at the conflnence is grand. The
"Erh-tao Chiang mshee down a narrow ravine with lofty precipitons
sides, crowned with fore ate, and a tall cliff, or rather rock — for it is an
isolated mass 800 feet high — hangs frowning over the meeting of the
waters. The Erh-tao Chiang, though shown in the maps as the main
stream of the river, is, aa its name implies, the second. It ia not very
mncL more than half as broad as its fellow, though veiy deep. Beyond
this point we came on extensive gold-wafihings, where we were warned
to look to our guuH, as the diggings were situated in a kind of no-man's
land, out of tbo jurisdiction and protection both of mandarin and guild,
and upwards of three hundrt^d outlaws had assembled there to wash the
sand for gold. However, though we spent a night qui to close to them,
they did us no harm.
At last we crossed the Hwa-pi Ho, tbe Khnifa river of the maps, one
of the finest tributaries of the Sungari, Beyond this it was compara-
tively plain sailing. The country was settled, and the roads wide enough
for carts. We emerged from the jierpi'tual gWm of the forests and the
everlasting chop, chop, of the axe clearing away trees from the path was
heard no more. One nnmistakable sign soon announced that we were
out of the safe protection of the guilds. All important shops had high
walls and small fortifications to protect them against brigands, and wo
crossed one low pass, called the Ching-ling, which was a favourite haunt
for these gt^ntry. Not very long before throe carts laden with valual^les
—opium, deer-horns, and the like — were looted in open day, and nine
persona in charge of them were murdered.
During our progress from Mukden to Kirin we made a collection of
flowers and plants, the preservation of which was a source of some
difficulty and anxiety, owing to the constant min. The Director of the
Hoyal Botanic Gardens, Kow, has kindly favoured me with the following
note upon it ; —
"It comprises upwards of 500 species of Flowering Plants, 32 Ferus, and
10 Lycopods and Horeetaila (Equisetuni). Unlike the vegetation of the mountains
of the Poking region and the neiglibonring provinces, this specimen of the flora of
Mimchuria contains a very small endemic element^ and less than half a dozen
absolute novelties. Among the genera characteristic of the flora of North-eastern
Asia, Sttmoccdium, Ehuiherococcus^ Plah^codon^ Olossocomia^ MeiapJexiSf Brachy-
hoiry% Siphonostegiat and Funkia are represented ; but with few other exceptions
the genera are dispersed all round the north temperate zone, and many of these have
a very much wider range* In ehort, it is a part of the same floral region to which
the Britiflli Islands belong, and no fewer than 160 of tbe fipecies collected, or nearly
a third of the total, are identical with the species inhabiting these inlands. These
Bpecies ara almost all herbs or very dwarf alpine Bhmbs. As in temperate North-
eastern Asia generally, the proportion of arboreous and ahnibby species to herbaceous
I
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA. 649
species is relatively high. They include three limes, six maples, one i^ear, one
mountain ash, one cherry, one bird-cherry, two thorns, one elder, one dogwood, one
ash, five conifers, three willows, two poplars, two hazels, and one oak.
"The predominant Natural orders are: — GompositSB, 65 species; Kosaceas,
30 species; Liliacea;, 28 species; Ranunculaceae, 27 species; and Leguminosas,
20 species; and conspicuous genera are Aquilegia (columbine), Poeoniaf Dianthus^
PctentUla, Lathyrus^ Spiraea, Aster, Artemisia, Senecio, Samstirea, Adenophora,
{Campanula), Polygonum (knotgrass), Lilium, Sec
" Otherwise noteworthy plants : — Papaver cdpinum, Vitis vini/era^ Tri/olium
lupinaster, Saxifraga (a new species with large peltate leaves), LinnoBa horealis,
Phyllodoce ccerulea, Utrictdaria intermedia, Pinus mandshurica^ Lilium (various
species)."
A snpplementary collection was also made in tho autumn on the
Mongolian steppes. We also preserved a small number of bird-skins,
though the rapidity of our movements and the obstacles we met with
greatly impeded our ornithological e£forts. Dr. Bowdler Sharpe, of the
British Museum, has obliged me with the following observations on our
specimens : —
The collection comprises tho following interesting species : — Tetrad tetrix^
Lanius sphenocercus, Otis Byhowshii, Acredula caudata, Sitta villosa, Turdiit
naumanni, Perdix barhata, Emberiza castaneiceps, Ninox scuttdata, and Accentor
erythropygius, A black woodpecker is identical with a species found in the TyroL
A week's journey from the Hwa-pi Ho brought us to Kirin. It is
probably the filthiest town in China, which is saying a good deal, and
wo were detained by the rain for three weeks in the filthiest inn in the
place. Our room was situated on one side of a large quadrangle, which^
during our stay, was one lake of mixed mud and sewage, as a large open
drain ran through the centre of it.
Tho situation of the town is undeniably fine. The Sungari, on
emerging from the hills, low spurs of whioh extend even beyond
Kirin, sweeps round from west to east in a great bend for about
four miles, and then turns northward again. The town, which
contains, I should estimate, from 75,000 to 100,000 inhabitants,
extends for about two miles along this bend, so close to the bank
that the street along the river front is constructed of wooden flooring
raised on piles, in many places rotten and most unsafe. A circle
of low hills springing beyond the west end of the town curves
right round behind it, and so that with the river in front and rising
ground behind, it might be made a very strong place. The only
thing of interest is the arsenal, which has recently been established
under the management of a gentleman named Sung, who received his
training under foreigners in the arsenals of Tientsin and Shanghai.
He was exceedingly courteous and friendly, and not only showed us
over the arsenal, but asked us to dinner twice, and feasted us like
princes. It was extremely inteo^esting to see alaorge establishment like
2 B 2
550
A JOURNEr IN MAKCHUHIA.
the arsenal filled nvlth. foreign machmery, some German, and some
Engliflli, witli boilers and engines and steam hanimors, just Buch as one
ini^Lt see at Woolwich or Elswick, all erected and managed by Chinese
without foreign apsistance of any kiniL It would open the eyes of
thoso EnropeauH who think that Western nations have a monopoly of
mecliamcal and adminiefcrative ability. And yon may like to hoar the
Chinese verdict on English^ compared with German machinery. The
latter was considered to work more qiiickly and did light work
better, but tho English was more solid, and could be depended upon for
accuracy. Amongst other curiosities, Mr. Sung showed us a machine
gun invented, perhaps it would be more correct to say adapted, by one
of his foremen from a We^tena model. It wae so portable that two men
eoidd carry it al^ont and the tripod on which it worked vdth the greatest
ease. Wo %vere shown it at work^ and it can fire eightj^ shots a minute
smwjthl}^ and without any syuiptom of obstruction. On the opposite
side of the river to the arsenal a powder factory has also been put up,
in which gunpowder is being manufactured on tho most approved prin-
ciples. The fact that one of the first uses to which the Chinese are putting
the mechanical knowledge they learn from foreigners is the eonwtruetioii
of machines for destroj^ng their fellow-creatures, affords food for
reflection.
At Eirin we changed our pack-mules for carts to get over the ground
fastxjr, but our start did not augur well. The road through tho great
northern gate of the town, the capital of the province, wai? so much
out of repair, that the carts stuck in it for a couple of hours, and
one was upset in a lake of black mud. That, however, is not an
uncommon sight at the entrance even of Pckin. We followed the left
bank of the Sungari for about 24 miles, and tliee crossed it at a place
called Wudu-kai, where stand the remains of giant walls, said to be
those of a city w^hieh fiourished a thousand years ago. Pero Verbiest
went there with the Emperor Kanghi in 1682, and it was even then
described aa the first city in all the country, and formerly the seat of
the Tartar Emperors.
Abtmt twelve miles beyond this we crossed a fine stream 120 yards
wide, called the Shih-ehia-tztj, which has apparently' escajied tho
notice, I do not know how, of pri-vions travellers. Our onward
journey followed thu track taken by the Archimandrite PaUadius
in 1870. As far m Petuna the country was richly cultivated, and
tho crops were YQry fine, principally tho tall millet, beans, and hemp,
the last-named taller than I ever saw it before. The rivers were still in
flood, and the whole country at the junction of the Sungari and the
Nonni was under water, forming a lake ten miles from shore to shore.
The day wo arrived a storm came on, and the ferryman refused to start.
There was no shelter on the river bank, and we could not get back, as
the marsh we had just crossed was by that time like a sponge and quite
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA. 551
impassable ; so we were in a dilemma. We tried sending one cart
back, but it stuck in the mud, and took two hours to extricate.
Eventually, after a wretched day spent in the rain and wind, the
ferrymen were persuaded to start, and shortly after nightfall we came
to a tiny fisherman*s hut, on an island in the ocean, the owners of
which had pity on us, and took us in. I regret, however, that the ex-
posure gave Mr. Fulford an illness from which he did not recover for
some time.
Beyond the Sungari we came for the first time on the Mongolian
steppes. Great parts of the country were inundated, and lakes were to
be seen on either hand, stretching far away into the distance. We could
not, therefore, follow the Archimandrite's route exactly, but made
numerous diversions. The steppe is so bare, that a single tree forms a
conspicuous object for many miles round. At intervals there are small
villages adjoining the Government postal stations, and occasionally
some Mongol houses are to be met with.
In this region the Mongols have almost entirely abandoned their
nomad life, and we only saw two youarts, both of them in course of
construction. Great herds of ponies and sheep were grazing on the
plain, and occasionally there was a little cultivation, but the Mongol is
a bad farmer, and the crops were very poor. We were thankful, how-
ever, to get from them excellent milk, and what is more, ghee, the ex-
istence of which outside India we had not before suspected. They also,
such is the abundance of cream, manufacture a kind of cheese called
naiphiy or milk skin, which is very good. It is made by simmering a
bowlful of milk for hours together till the residuum is left in the
shape of a cake about half an inch thick. When fresh and soft it is
very good, something like Devonshire cream, and when dried it will
keep for a long time. In this region the houses cease to have gabled
roofs, having flat terraces instead, as in Egypt and other Oriental
countries. The explanation is that wood is scarce in the north, and flat
roofs can be constructed with a smaller quantity of timber.
Tsitsihar is about 360 miles north of Eirin, and we did the journey
in 18 days. We might have done it in less, but unfortunately the only
agreement we could make with our carters was one for a daily wage, so,
like true Chinese, they purposely delayed our progress. I strongly
recommend any one travelling in China never to make an agreement of
that kind. It will be far cheaper in the end, and far more satisfactory,
to agree even to exorbitant terms for piece-work.
We had contemplated going as far as Aigun and Blagoveschensk,
but except for an occasional Buddhist montunent, exactly like those of
Ladakh, the country was not very interesting, so we determined to visit
the settlements north of the Sungari, which have been springing up in
this region with great rapidity during the last few years. So we turned
towards the south-west, and a journey of about 170 miles over entirely
652
A JOLTRXEY IN MANCHURIA.
bare steppe brought vlb to the flourislimg town of Hulan* The steppe
was like an undulating sea of graea, the crest of each wave being
about four miles apart, and almost entirely uninhabitetl. In some
places the soil is strongly impregnated with alkalies, from which by
lijtiviation various preparations of stida and saltpetre are made. The
process is very rude, exactly akin to what may be seen any day
in Ladftkh and in Sind. Vast flocks of antelopes, hwang-yaji^, were
occasionally met with, as well as large flocks of bustards, eome of which
we secured* Numerous varieties of cranes and wildfowl were also
observed, but with the exception of the bustard they were all too Bhy t»
allow of our obtaining specimens.
The Bteppo cornea to an eod about 30 miles from Hulan, and the
contrast between the uncultivated prairie which belongs to the Mongol
dukea and the rich reclaimed tract beyond, which is in the jurisdiction of
the Chinese, was very abrux^fc and very striking. The district we now
entered has only been settled in comparatively recent years. It lies
between a branch of tlie great Khiugan range, which extends north*
ward up to and beyond the river Amur, and the river Sutigari, It is
from 70 to lUO miles broad in the widest part, but proceeding eastwards
the apui's apjiroach nearer and nearer to the river till but a narrow strip
is left. The immigration for some years past has been annually in-
creasing. The principal to'^vns are Hulan on the river of tho same
name, Pe-tun-lin-tzu 50 miles to the north-east, and Pa-yen- sho-shu
about the same distance to the south-east of Pe-tun-lin-tzu. All these
places offered a great contrast to the more ancient towns of Manchuria.
The streets are crowded with shops, spacious, elegantly decorated, and
full of goods of a better class than are seen in towns further south;
building operations are going on as rapidly as in a London Kubnrb, and
everything bears evidence of growing and prosperous commuuitics. It
may be called the Manitoba of China, Unibrtunately, the administimtion
is still veiy imp<?rfect, and tho country is infested with lianditti, who
find an as^lmii in tho mountains to the north. It is not fair to say that
tho authorities arc blind to the existence of the pest, or that they fail
to do anjiihing towards putting it down. The grcatar part of the
garrison of Tsitsihar itself is employed on outpost duty against the
brigands, and at tho largo village of Chao-hu-wo-pu there was an officer
on special duty with a flying column. Some French missionaries ^situated
at Pa>yen-shu-shu and tho vicinity told us that the number of robbers
executed was very great, amounting in tho last year or two to no less
than 500 or COO ; but all mandarins ai-e not energetic, and all Manchu
Boldiera, esjxrcially those who have taken to gambling and dissipa-
tion, are not brave. One mandarin we heard of as conniving with
the brigands at sacking an important town, and several instances were
told ua of soldiers who had suiTounded brigands ignominiously lotting
thcni escape. In India these malefactors '^vould be pursued into their
A JOUKNET IN HANCHORIA. 658
fastnesses, or the passes into the hills wonld be blockaded, and they
would be starved out; but the mandarins reserve all action till the
enemy actually come down to raid. It may 'be wondered therefore
that colonisation should continue extending, for both life and property
are most insecure. But if settlers were deterred by dangers of the
kind. Bed Indians would be masters of North America to this day.
They sack towns, villages, isolated distilleries and pawnbrokers' shops,
and occasionally, as in Italy, they carry away men whom they suspect
to be possessed of wealth ; a ransom is then demanded, failing which
the brigands invariably keep to their word, and send the victim's head
back to his friends. Occasionally they try what the cutting ofif of an
ear or nose may do to extract money when sending for it in the first
instance. We ourselves, towards dusk one evening, met with a party of
five, all armed with rifles, on the high road to Fe-tun-lin-tzii, but we
saw them at a distance and displayed our guns. Our carts were going
at a trot, and they did not attempt to molest us. One of the missionaries
told us afterwards that it is thought unlucky to interfere with '' foreign
devils." The towns and large villages, and all important places of
business are as strongly fortified as possible, even to the mounting of
small cannon on the tops of the walls, and most travellers carry arms of
some kind. One kind of life-preserver was new to us. It consists of a
series of heavy links of iron, with a piece about six inches long at the
end, the whole attached to a short wooden handle, somewhat resembling
a dog- whip. It gives a tremendous blow, but of course would be useless
if the assailant closed. From Pe-tun-lin-tzu as far as San-sing, and
even as far as Ninguta and Hunchun, the authorities sent an escort of
soldiers with us, but they would not have been of much use had the
brigands attacked, as they were always loitering behind or had cantered
on ahead to secure themselves good accommodation.
There are three French missionaries established at Fa-yen-shu-shu
and in the neighbourhood, all worthy specimens of their race and sacred
profession. They received us with the greatest cordiality, and treated
us to home-made claret and eau de rt«, prepared by themselves firom the
wild grapes of the mountains, and very good liquor it was. Their
congregations are not very large, but they are extending, and here, as
elsewhere, it was evident these good Fathers enjoyed the thorough
affection and confidence of their people ; not that this is surprising, for
they have devoted their lives to their work, and never contemplate
returning to their native country. A few years ago a fourth missionary
attempted to establish himself at Hulan, but he was attacked by a
number of ruffianly soldiers, at whom, with great want of judgment,
he fired a pistol and killed a mandarin. The result was, he himself
was nearly beaten and tortured to death. It might have been expected
that this incident would have led to the position of the other three
missionaries becoming untenable, but it is creditable, both to the Chinese
554
A JOURNETf IN MANCHURIA.
and to the missionaries themselves, that thej have suffered nothing in
consequeoce*
Tho missionaries told us that the Solon Manchus who inhabit the hills
to the north are still as savage as they were two hundred years ago,
\vhen even the women were described as riding and hunting exactly
like the men. ^Vhilo wo were at Hulan, three Chinese returned
from the hills where they had been soarchiug for a medicinal root, the
survivors of a party of thirteen, nearly all of whom had been murdered
by the Solons.
A march or two beyond Pa-ycn*shu-shu the cultivation begins to fall
ofil The low ground is somewhat swampy, broken by a series of low
undulations of gravelly, poor soil, and the price demanded by the
Government does not offer sufficient inducements. Between Pei-jang-
mu, the place at which the high road from Kirin crosses the Sungari, and
San-sing, about 120 miles, cultivation is scanty and Ijad. Still, a great
deal of good land is still left.
The next place of importance was San-sing, which is situated on the
right bank of the Sungari, on a spit of land between the two rivers the
Hurka or Mutan Chiang, and tho Wu-kung. The first is about 150
yards broad, and for a mile below the confiuenco its clear blue waters can
lie seen flowing side by side with those of the muddy Sungari. The
Wu'kung joins the Sungari about a mile further west, flowing along the
base of a precipitous range of bills. It is alxmt 50 yards broad, and at
the time of our visit was ten feet deep, though occasionally it is shallow
enough to ford, San~sing is about 150 mik^s above the placo where it
joins tho Amur, and 300 from Khabarofka, the capital of the Russian
Maritime Province, There is no road along its banks, but the stream is
very deep, and navigable by large craft. Tho authorities do not permit
immigrants from tho south to settle l>elow San-sing, and trade betWL'cn
that place and the Eussian stations on the Amur is discouraged,
which is a pit}'. The Amur is tho natural outlet for the fortik^ districta
north of Kinn, and were the Russian and Chinese officials, or perhaps I
ought to say, the Russian and Chinese Governments, on a thoroughly
friendly footing, a commeroe valuable to both countries might easily bo
developed. To guard this great waterway into their country, the
Chinese have erected a fort about seven miles below the to\\Ti, at a
point where the Sungari is very narrow. The fort is anned with five
great Krupp guns, and the newest and most expensive sort of shells.
A number of soldiers were bard at work in the fort, but most of
the garrison, so we were informed, are kept out of mischief at a
gold-mine, ivhich is worked on behalf of the Government, a little
distance off.
At San -sing we tried to make the acquaintance of the Yii-p*i-Tatzu,
or Fish-skin Tartars^ who wear clothes made of salmon-skin* They
have now rttired 100 miles down the Sungari, and only come up to
I
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA. 556
San-sing in the winter to make purchases, so we could not see any of
them.
From San-sing we proceeded up the right bank of the Mutan Chiang
as far as Ninguta, about 1 70 miles to the south. The scenery down
this river must be very lovely in summer. It winds about in a deep
valley between hills covered with dwarf oak, and which in most places
come down to the water's edge, while on the east rises a chain of fine
mountains, the tops of which are covered with lofty pine forests, and
form the watershed of the Hurka and the Usuri The fall of the river
is very gradual, nor did we notice any rapids during the whole length
of its course. Its average width is about 100 to 160 yards, the depth
varying from five to ten feet, so that there are no fords. Occasionally it
divides into three or four channels, the islands formed by which are
covered with willows, which add greatly to the picturesqueness of the
valley. The road, which was constructed about seven years ago, I
believe, for military purposes, follows the old mule-track, and is in
consequence barely fit for wheeled traffic. It crosses a constant series of
spurs, some of which are extremely steep, and we had several accidents
in crossing them. Between the spurs lie swamps which have been cause-
wayed and bridged in places, but many of the bridges are broken down,
and the quagmires have occasionally swallowed up the roadway. In
addition to this the hill-sides themselves frequently form one connected
morass, owing to the vast number of springs which rise high up on the
mountain sides. Had not the first frosts of winter begun and the surface
become hard, we should have found this road very difficult.
Forty miles from San-sing we stopped at Wei-tzu Ho, from which
place the mule-track starts that was taken by the heroic M. Venault in
his memorable journey to search for the murdered M. de la Bruniere in
the year 1860. At the present day even carts find their way across the
mountains as far as the junction of the Moli with the Usuri. Up to
Wei-tzu Ho cultivation is pretty general, but south of it the valley
narrows, and population almost ceases. For upwards of 100 miles almost
the only houses are those occupied by military outposts, each manned by
from fifteen to twenty soldiers, whose duties are to carry the post, and,
if necessary, capture brigands. They are garrisoned half from San-
sing and half from Ninguta.
Those who have read Mr. Bavenstein's work, * The Bussians on the
Amur,' may remember the following passage from M. de la Bruni^re's
letter : —
" Towards the end of September, at the approach of winter, another kind of fish,
called tamaha, appears in the Amur and Usuri. It comes from the sea in shoals of
FC'veral thousands, and weighs from 10 to 15 lb?, in weight ; the shape, and espe-
cially the flavour of its flesh, gave one reason to suppose it a kind of small salmon.
God in His paternal providence, mindful even of those who do not glorify Him, gives
it to the poor inhabitants of this country as an exoellent preservative against the
556
A JOURNEF IN MAKCHURIA.
rigours of winter. 1 state what I found by experience, witkout wine and without
flour, supported by a very little millet and a morsel of tiie dried fiah, I have suffered less
from a continual cold of 51°j and which during many days exceeded 65°, than I did
in the south of Lioo-tuDg, with better food and temperature of some 4 degrees below
zero."
It so happened that the season for catching these Balinon was at its
height when we passed up the valley. Tho principal tributaries uf the
Mutaii Chiang were dammed with weirs of wickerwork, on the far side uf
which were coops connected with the weir by small openings. When a
ahoal of fish is going up, these coops fill in a short time with almost a
solid mass of salmon, and they are hauled out with a gaff as fast as the
implement can be inserted. In a few minutes wo saw a whole Ijoat-load
landed. The eaTCS of all the houses in this region are at this timo
hung with thousands of fish split open and diyhig in the sun, which
when cooked are not at all bad eating.
At the eighth stage from San-sing» about twenty miles north of Nin-
gnta^ we halted a day at Yeh-ho, where the Kinguta garrison is stationed,
Yeh-ho beang tho idace where the road axiross tho mountaius to Lake
Hinka and tho Itusaian settlement of Nikolsk commences. There is a
iittio trade between the two places, which showa signs of increasing*
About thirteen miles further on the Mutan Chiang makes a sweep to the
west, and the road crosses it. Seven miles further stands ^'inguta, on the
left bank of the river.
San-fling, as might be expected from the discouragement given to
settlers, is not a vei*y thriving t^jwn. Kingut^i, on tho contrary, is making
great progress, Tho valley of the Mutan Chiang widens c\>nsiderably
from Yeh Ho, so that Ninguta is really in the centre of an extensive plain,
connected ii\'ith which are numerous fertilt* valleys, drained by affluents
of the main river. There is little trade between San-sing and Kinguta,
though the river is navigable for large boats the wholo of the summer.
Only three or four bcjats a year, wo were told, come from San-sing laden
with earthenware and fragile articles, and they return ladt-n with melons
and fresh vegetables. With Hunchun, on the other hand, the Kinguta
trade may bo called considerable, as there is not much cultivation about
the latter place, and it depends lur flour, wine, and other bulky neces-
saries of lile almost entirely upon Kinguta.
At Kinguta wo found one civilised institution, such as would hardly
be expected in su remote a place — I mean a telegraph oflSee, More for
military than for commercial and general purposes, the Chinese are now
busy connecting all their frontier stations with Pekin by telegraph. An
office was opened at Hunchun only a few days before we arrived there,
and the posts were lying ready for erection this season between
San-aing and Kinguta. We met an officer of tho Department between
Kirin and Tsitsihar, surveying a line between Kirin and Aigun on
the Amur, which also will bo opened, I believe, in the course of
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA. 567
the present season. It seems rather like putting the cart before the
horse, having telegraphs before the post-office, but from the Chinese point
of view that circumstance is all in the telegraph's favour, as merchants
use the line more than they otherwise would, and help to pay its expenses.
Hunchun by the road is about 180 miles south of* Ninguta. We
crossed to the right bank of the Mutan Chiang, a few miles below the
city, on the 28th October. The season was by all accounts a very mild
one, but from this time the weather got colder and colder. Leaving on
October 29th, the thermometer at starting was 11° Fahr., and from that
date onward till we had almost got back to Mukden, it varied from that
to — 14° Fahr. The days were very short, so we had to rise before
daylight and commence our march even before the first streak of dawn.
It was cold, but healthy work. We dressed ourselves like our carters,
in long sheep- skin robes, reaching down to the heels, with fox-skin caps
that covered our ears and necks, and when riding on the carts we pulled
on over our boots and trowsers a gigantic loose pair of top-boots, also
made of sheep-skin. Fortunately we had very little snow, or we might
have suffered serious detentions. It took nine days to march from
Ninguta to Hunchun. The road on the whole is a good deal better than
that from San-sing. About 55 miles from Ninguta we crossed the range
which divides the valley of the Mutan Chiang from the basin of the
T*um^n. It is 1460 feet in height, and covered with dense forest, prin-
cipally birch and pine; amongst the latter a tree bearing an edible
nut was conspicuous. After crossing two more ridges, steep but not
very high, both under 800 feet, we came upon the Kaya-ho, one of the
principal affluents of the T'umen, here about 50 yards across. Leaving
that on our right, we went up an affluent called the Wang-ching Ho,
across three more spurs, after which we found ourselves on the bank
of the Tyumen, a little below its confluence with the Kaya Ho, just in
the centre of its great bend.
The place where we first struck the Tyumen, or, as the Chinese call
it, the Kauli Chiang, is a basin several miles in diameter, completely
surrounded by mountains, which bears the appearance of having at one
time been a lake ; for around the base of the hills are to be seen the
remains of an ancient beach, as in the Jhelum valley in Kashmir, and
little, isolated, elevated patches in the middle look as if they had been
islands. The river has found its way out of this basin through a low
range of hills by a narrow rocky defile. So close does the cliflf approach
the water that there is barely room for a cart to pass. Beyond, the
valley again widens, and cultivation becomes general. On the opposite
side of tiie river is Korea, and we could see a good deal of cultivation
and a town called Ta-wen-chang, surrounded by a wall of considerable
pretensions. The Jesuit Fathers have recorded their sensations on reach-
ing the banks of the T'umSn, '' with nothing but woods and wild beasts
on one side, while the other presents to the view all that art and labour
558
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA.
could pi-oduce in the best cultivatecl kiogdom. They saw walled cities,
and determined the situation of four of tbcm, which hounded Korea on
the north/*
A few miles below the defile the road lea yob the river on the right
and passes the affluent called Mi Chiang, and the Yillage of the sanio
name. Twenty njik's further on stands the town of Hunchmi. It
consist 3 of an enclosure alxjut 800 yards long by 4O0 yards broad, sur-
rounded by a lofty stone wall, inside ivhieh is tht? Genciars yainen, and
some inns and ehops* The barracks are all outside, and m is the princi-
pal part of the bazaar. We recognised with pleasure that we were now
within a raeasnrahle distance of civilisation, for the shops were full of
foreign goods imi>orted from Itussia, such iia kerosene lamps, clocks,
glycerine soap, comfits, biacuits, cLintz, English teacups, American
canned fruit, and a quantity of miscellaneous goods. Three ports of
them, I am glad to say, were En glitch.
Hnnchun is essentially a garrison town, though there are a few
dealers in seaweed, toadstools, and medicinal roots, lar^o qnantities of
which are sent to Ningnta and Kirin, and thence to all parts of China.
There is also a considerable trade in deer-horns. Shortly after arrival
we went to call on the General— an officer of distinguished service in
the Tae-ping war. He received us with the greatest possible politeness
and cordialit}^ and sent ns a dinner which for excellence of cooking
could not be surpassed by any restaurant in Europe. IV-rhaps wo ap*
predated it the more, because from the time we left Pa-yen-ahn-shu we
had lived exclusively on a diet of pheasants, only occasionally varied by
a wild goose or a blackcock. Throughout the whole of Eastern Man-
churia pheasants swarm to an extent that is scarcely credible.
Towards the end of harvest they collect from tho mountains in the
sttibble, and I have seen occasionally 2U0 or 300 at a time rise from a
single field. They lie very close, but are very strong on the wing, and
they gave na very g<xid shooting. In some parts too, wild geeso
swarmed in myriads. They generally kept high in the air, but occa-
sionally flew low enough to allow of our securing one or two. As for
the black game, they were as tame as barn-door fowls, perching in large
flocks on the wallow trees, and occasionally were good enough to allow
ns to go under the trees and pick out tho finest of them sitting.
A considerable garrison is kept at Hunchun ; the barracks are sur-
icmndcd by trees, and the streets are cleaner than any Chinese town I
have seen. One dties almost think tho General had attended a Sanitary
Cummissioner^B lectures in India. Sumo of the truops are still armed
with auch antiquated weapons as gingalls (huge muskets, each of which
takes two men to carry) and old liro\\Ti Bess smooth-bores, while a vast
number of fighting men are wasted in carrying banners, which though
very picturesque, are not likely to prove of practical use against modern
rifles.
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA. 669
The Russian frontier, which has only recently been demarcated afresh
by a Chinese and a Bnssian Commission, is not more than 8 or 10 miles
from Hunchun, The road passes for five or six miles over an open plain,
on which the Chinese have recently built two forts, and ascends. a low
range, an outwork of a lofty chain forming the watershed between the
Tumen and the Suifun, which last river runs into the sea a little beyond
Possiet harbour. Scarcely a mile from the crest of this ridge there is a
brass pillar, with archaic Chinese characters recording the fact that the
boundary was fixed there by Imperial command tinder Commissioner
Wu a few months before we arrived; and about three miles beyond
that the Russians have constructed an outpost for 200 or 300 Cossacks.
We were not provided with passports, as we had no intention of
travelling in Russian territory, but we wrote to the officer command-
ing, asking leave to pay him a visit, to hear the news from Europe,
and to buy some stores and provisions. We received a most courteous
answer, offering us the cordial but frugal hospitality of a Cossack.
Accordingly wo rode across, and found Colonel Sokalowsky busy
with the construction of the new outpost. The whole place was
like a bee-hive, for the Cossacks have to house themselves, and a fine
barrack-room, together with subsidiary buildings, such as stables, hos-
pitals, bakery, married quarters, officers* houses, and last, but not least,
a great Russian bath were under construction. We were told the
amount of the grant made for the entire work, and I am sure a British
Royal Engineer would consider it ridiculously inadequate. The
Colonel was himself his own architect, engineer, and clerk of the
works, and his house was an arsenal in petto. On one side were ranged
the carbines of his men, and around the room were nails, hinges,
rope, twine, stirrup-irons, leather, in fact every kind of miscellaneous
article required by his men for their houses, their horses or equipments.
He showed us everything, and then gave us a capital dinner and a
shake-down on the floor.
Next morning wo rode off to the principal military station, Novaviyesk,
fifteen miles further on, on the north shore of Possiet harbour. In
summer it must be a lovely spot, surrounded by lofty mountains, with
the ocean close by, but in winter it is desolate in the extreme. It bears
a strong family likeness to a small Indian station, the shops, barracks,
offices, and picturesque Greek church being located promiscuously, with
quite the Indian want of system. The shops were quite as good as the
ordinary Parsee shops, and we got all the luxuries we wanted. Possiet
itself, a settlement of only thirty houses, is about two miles off as the
crow flies, on the seaward side of the harbour, but by road round the
head of the harbour the distance is ten miles. Novaviyesk is situated
on the edge of a small stream. Two or three miles to the north, up a
valley, is a colony of farmers, but they were not doing very well. The
colonel informed us they did not grow enough food to support them-
j60
A JOURKET IK MANCHURIA.
selves, and the GoveanTDent had to import flour f o save them from starva-
tion, A good many Koreans have taken up land in tho vicinity, and the
Unsaiana consider them docile, iudnstriona, and well behaved. Wo
watched a party of young Cossacks being drilled, and others being
instructed in gymnastics, and it was difficult to realise one was not liack
again in India. West of the harbour, at the point near the mouth of the
T*nmen where the Korean, Chinese, and Eussian frontiers join, is another
Eussian outpost. On our return to the frontier we dined again with the
colonel, meeting the Eussian Imperial CommisBiouer, SI, Methuen, who
spoke English. IJe told us of the failure of the lIoTne Eiile movement in
England, of the expulsion of the Orleans Princes and Prince Alexander
of Bulgaria, and other things which were news to na, though ancient
history to the rest of the world.
On our return to Hunchun tho part^^ divided* Mr* Younghusband
ad Mr. Fulford went l»ack to Xinguta by the road we came, to pick up
onr servant whom we had sent from Kiiin to the coast for letters, and
to see the remarkable plain of stone, described by a former Consul in
Manchuria, Mr. Adkius, while I went alone by a mule-track which leads
across the hills to Omoso on the Kirin and Ninguta road. This route
follows the course of an affinent of the Kaya Ho till it reaches tho main
range of the Chang-pai Shan, The road branches off at Liang-shtti-
chien-tzij, 30 miles from Hunchun, on the Ningnta road, and after
about 50 miles of alternate ridge, valley, and swamp, it descends on the
Wei-tzii Ho, at a place called Nan-kang-tzii> where are three barracks
garrisoned by about 1 500 men. It follows a valley, about 4 or 5 ini les w ide,
which is now being settled, for about 25 miles. After crossing two
spurs, it rejoins the river hank, and follows the valley for about 30 miles
further, to the foot of the main chain of mountains. Here is an easy
pass called Ha-la-pa-ling, and the road then descends upon a plateau
much higher than the valley just left, in which the Mutan Chiang and
its tributaries take their source. This plateau is intersected b}' vast
morasses, over somo of which causeways have been recently con-
structed, but there is also a good deal of arable land, and settlers are
to be found every few miles. The plateau I spoke of is divided into
sections by numerous low si>ui*b jutting out from the main chain, and
occasionally singular isolated hills like islands are to bo observed-
For about thirty-five miles the road keeps along the left bank of the
Bha Ho, which falls into the Mutaii Cliiang not far from Tung-o*kang-
tzu, a fair*aized village, where a small raandarin resides. About sixteen
miles to tho eouth-west of this place ytandis the town of An tun, now
called Tung-hwa-hsieu, a walled town with a small garrison, which I
cuucoive may be identical wdth tho place marked on tho maps Odoli,
from which place a mythical history relates that the Manchu dynasty
originally sprang. Unft>rtunately I was unable to visit it. I was
travelling with a long train of pack mules, the owners of which refused
■
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA. 661
to wait for me. Some modem authorities believe the existence of Odoli
to be entirely imaginary. P^re Du Halde, however, describes it in con-
siderable detail, as being very strong, accessible only by a narrow cause-
way, which rises in the middle of the water, where may be seen great
staircases of stone, with other remains of a palace ; so that it yet remains
to be seen whether this account was merely recorded by the Fathers who
surveyed Manchuria from Chinese hearsay, or whether the ruins really
exist. I enquired of everybody for Odoli, but the name was entirely
unknown to them. This, however, is not surprising, as even the
Manchus have forgotten the old Tartar nomenclature, and invariably
call places by their Chinese names.
Sixteen miles beyond Tung-o-kang-tzu the road crosses the Mutan
Chiang, there about 60 yards wide, at its junction with a stream called the
Chu-erh-tao Ho, following the course of which the Kirin high road is
struck at the large village of Omoso, six or eight miles further on. This
highway crosses the watershed between the Sungari and the T'um&i by
the Ch'ang-tsai-ling, a lofty and steep pass, about 20 miles to the west
of the village. A special guard of soldiers was given to protect me
while crossing, as in spite of a number of soldiers being posted near the
top, the forest-clad slopes of the range are the home of a band of brigands,
the pursuit of which gives the soldiers perennial employment. A day
or two before I arrived, the guard had penetrated the hills, and found
the brigands' house, but the occupants were away, so the house was
burned, and the soldiers returned. In 1871, when a Consul (Mr. Adkins)
crossed this pass, he saw the dead bodies of some merchants, who had
been killed by brigands, still lying on the side of the road.
About 20 miles from the foot of the pass the mule-track again left
the main high road on the right, and crossed another range called
Hai-ching-ling, almost as high, but not as steep, as the Ch'ang-tsai-ling,
and another march beyond that brought me to Kirin. I was glad when
this portion of the journey was over, for the mules went so slowly
that we never started later than two in the morning, with the thermo-
meter below zero, and continued marching till four or five the next
afternoon.
Two days after I got to Kirin my companions, by hard marching,
rejoined me. When returning to Ninguta, they had made the last two
marches through the fertile vaUey of the Malan Ho, an affluent of the
Mutan Chiang, and they had visited the remains of an old city called
Tung-ching-chang. They describe it as having been a very large
place, with lofty stone walls and good stone houses. The people have a
tradition that it is of Korean origin, but others hold that it was the
capital of the Bo-hai* State, which about the 8th century a.d. was
recognised by the then reigning dynasty of China, and was the capital
city of the Kin dynasty before they established themselves as Emperors
• Or Pei-hoL— [Ed.].
662
A JOURNEY IN 5IANCHUIIIA.
at Pekin. Mousignor Boyer, the coadjutor Bisliop of Maiitliuria, who
has Leon in the provhico more than thirty yeara, i>elievea that this is
tho real sito of the ancieut Odoli^ although the description does not
correspond with that quoted above.
My companioBs had crossed the Plain of Stone, passing hy Lake
Piltau. The so-called Plain of Stone is a hroad valley, formerly filled
hy a morass, over which a stream of lava has flowed, so that it Wars the
appearance of a solidiiied sea of molten metaL In gome places tho crust
is deeply cleft by fissures at the bottom of which the water can bo heard
gurgling, which has given tho Chineso the idea that there is a subter-
ranean lake below. A good description of the Plain of Stone and of
Lake Piltan may bo found in Consul Adkins*s report, published in the
China Blue Book for 1872. West of the Ch*aiig-tsai-Iing, my two c-om-
panions bad followed the main roiid over the Lau-yeh-ling, which is
about 10 miles shorter than the H a- chin g -ling, but not so easy to
climb.
From Eirin we went to Kaan-chang-tzu, the most important com-
mercial city in Manchuria^ containing about 100,000 inhabitants. The
cold weather traffic bad begun, and there was as much life and bustle as
in the city of London. We then wont to Hsiau Pa^kia-tzil, the residence
of Monslgnor Boycr, and two of bis colleagues, and stayed a day to see
the college, schools, and church. The brigands were at work in this
neighbourhoc»d also. AVe saw a party of them that had just been cap-
tured, and heard of another which bad visited an inn close hy only tho
day before we aiTived,
We then turned our faces southward, making for Mukden and
Tingtzii with all the speed possible. Numerous high roads, in
winter as bard and level as a billiard table, connect northern with
son them Manchuria, and the traffic is very great. One day we counted
upwards of 900 carts which wc passed, most of them huge vehicles
carrying upwards of a ton of goods, drawn by eight or nine mules or
ponies*
During this part of the journey wo saw the greater part of Liao-
tnng. Though it Buffered recently from great floods it is very carefully
cultivated, and covered with fiourisbing towns and villages. Whatever
the merits or demerits of Cbinese rule, this province certainly haa im-
proved enormously in jtho last two centuries. In 16S2 Pcro Yerbiest
wrote that only " a few houses bad lately l>een built within tho inclosures
of the old cities ; few of brick, and most thatched, and in no order," and
that " there remained not the least mark of a midtitude of towns and
\illages that stcxxl before tho (Manehu-Chinese) wars," and in 1 709 the
Jesuit surveyors reconled, **The towns are of little note and thinly
peopled, and without any defence except a wall either half ruined or
made uf earth, though some of them, as Ichowand Rinchan, are very well
situate for trade.'^ It is evident that the walla have siuce been repaired
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA. 663
— as there are now cities with really splendid walls and in tolerably
good preservation, while inside and out they swarm with a prosperous
population.
At Mukden we spent a few days with our friends the Presbyterian
missionaries, who are doing a very fine work in that neighbourhood.
At Tingtzii we separated. Mr. Younghusband and Mr. Fulford went
duo west to Tientsin and Pekin by land. I myself was obliged to
leave China without delay, and the river at Yingtzii being closed
by ice, I proceeded southward to Port Arthur, which is open all
the year round. Its Chinese name is Lu-shuan-kou and it is
situated at the southern extremity of the promontory known on the
Admiralty charts as Kwan-tung.* I reached it after eleven days. In the
neighbourhood of Yingtzii the country is low and flat, so much so that
sea water is led over it at high tide, from which salt is manufactured.
Further south the country is extremely hilly, and the land on the banks
of the many streams are so liable to floods that the cultivated area bears
but a small proportion to the whole.
One of the principal industries in these parts is the growth of Tusserf
silk. The worms are fed on the dwarf oaks with which the hill-sides
are covered, and the cocoons are gathered and wound off in winter. At
one filatory there were upwards of thirty or forty young men engaged
in winding silk. They were crowded together in the most insanitcuy
way, some of them working by candlelight during the day-time. At
Sha Ho, which has the honour of being the first mission station in Man-
churia, the resident missionary accompanied me to a mountain called
Hsien-jdn Shan, the Mountain of the Sages, a fine, craggy hill, partially
covered with pine trees. A road winds for some distance up a fine wild
glen, the bottom of which is filled with fine oaks, and ultimately ascends
the mountain by stairs cut out of the solid rock to a curious cave high
up on the face of the cliff. In this recess have been constructed several
Buddhist temples, and two or three priests are always on duty. The
view around of crags and precipices and pine-clad ravines is superb.
My next point was Ta-chiang Ho, a small port on the Yellow Sea,
from which I followed a route previously described by Dr. Williamson
to Kin-chao. At this place the promontory is barely a mile wide, and
the Chinese are fortifying it. This part of the country abounds in
remains attributed to the Koreans, who were masters of all the country
as far north as Mukden in the time of the Tang dynasty, by whom,
after very hard fighting, they were expelled in the year 645. One
of these forts, still in perfect preservation, is about 120 yards square,
with square flanking towers at the comers and in the middle of each
side. The walls are 25 feet high, composed of stone at the bottom
and fine large bricks, similar to those whick may be seen in the Great
* Lit. East of the Great Wall, a term applied by the Chinese to Liau-timg generally,
t In Chinese, T'u seti,— local or natilTe.— [En.].
No. IX.— Skpt. 1887.] 2 8
564
A JOURSEr IK MANCHURIA.
Wall of China, Tbo gate is very strongly fortified. This fort was
probal>ly biiilt as a protection for the port of Pi*tzii*wo against pirates.
Moreover, on the top of every conspicuons hill is a watchtower composed
of a solid pyramid of masonry^ 40 feet square at the base, tapering off
gradually to a rounded top about 40 feet from the ground. Around it
is a wall about 15 feet high. The natives informed mo that these were
used as watchtowera and beacons, and tbat in former times signals could
be exchanged by means of them from the end of the promontory as far
north as Mukdon, some 300 miles. The day before I reached Port
Arthur and finished my journey I nearly mot with a catastrophe. I
had been warned against attempting to travel while it was snowing:
a storm came on, but 1 persisted in pushing on. Before very long the
whole country' was buried under a sheet of white, and the track, wkich
passed over very rough and l>roken ground, was completely obliterated,
and not a sign of a liouso or dwelling-place could be seen. I knew that
two missionaries bad found themselves iu such a predicament not far
from the very place where I was only two years before, and they bad
been kept in the snow several days without food, so I began to feci
uncomfortable. Fortunately* a cart c^me up lielonging to a farmer in
the neighbourhood, and he showed me the road to a cottage, where I was
thankful to get sbelter.
Port Arthur is situated to the east of the Liao-ti Shan promontory,
only about eiitty miles from Che«fu as a crow iiies. The Chinese
have chosen it as the headquarters of their northern fleet, and as the
first line of defence for the capital. The barlM>ur is a good one, with
a very narrow entrance to the sea» and the Govemment has sjvent
large sums iu fortifying the coast on each side of it. There are
thirteen forts, and the artillery officer in command kindly lot me see
one, which was armed with magnificent Erupp guns. Great docks are
also in progress^ while torpedoes, submarine mines, and similar industries
are also in full swing. It is garrisoned by troops drilled by foreign
oflioers, bo that altogether it would be a hard nut for any nation to
crack. Here I found a Chinese transport sailing for Che-fu, and in
two days more my tour was at an end, and I had left Manchuria be-
hind me.
Prom this imperfect account it may be easily gathered that >>efore
long Manchuria will cease to have any distinctive existence, and will
soon constitute as integral and as thoroughly a Chinese i>ortion of the
Empire as Canton. She is at present in a transition state* The southern
province is, and always has been Chinese to all intents and purposes.
Manchu names and traditions may continue for long within the Imperial
precincts at Pekin, but in their native country tbey wnll disappear.
If China be wise she will carrj^ out in the north and east the policy she
has already begun in Liau-tung of sending her best, instead of her worst
and most corrupt mandarins to a country which is of so much im-
A JOURNEY IN MANCHURIA,— DISCUSSION. 665
portance, both politically and as a field for emigration and mining ; she
will foster, instead of repressing, colonisation in the Ch*ang-pai Shan
mountains, and on the Bnssian border, as she will find a contented,
well-to-do, loyal people a better defence against possible aggression
than empty valleys and hills which are calling aloud for some one to
come and occupy them. She will develope her mineral wealth, a royalty
on which would amply pay for a better and therefore a more expensive
administration, for in Manchuria as in China proper, the officials are
infamously underpaid, a system which gives direct encouragement to
corruption and every kind of abuse.
To any traveller who contemplates visiting Manchuria in the future,
I would make a recommendation. He should make up his mind whether
he wants sport or whether he wants exploration. If he wants sport,
and chooses to devote himself to it, he could not do better than seek
the Ch'ang-pai Shan in the early spring, go to Tang Ho-kou, and
hunt in the hills around. He will get tiger, stag, bear, and numerous
kinds of deer. Or better, perhaps, he might try the hills north of
Pa-yen-shu-shu. If he prefers exploration, let him leave his rifles
behind and go to the Pai-shan Mountain, explore the sources of the
Yalu and T*um^n as well as of the Sungari, and follow down the Korean
boundary, which map-makers seem a little in doubt about. Then let
him find Odoli, and hunt for a great wall, which P^re du Halde says once
existed between Korea and Manchuria, and for any other antiquities he
may have a fancy for, and I am sure he will find it a very pleasant and
interesting tour.
After the reading of the above paper.
Sir Thos. Wade expressed a hope that all travellers in China would be careful,
if possible, to record the names of the places visited in written Obinese. The
paucity of distinct sounds in the language was necessarily the cause of great con-
fusion. As to the country through which Mr. James had travelled to the north of
Korea, it was the home of many races of which the history was more or less known
for thirty centuries, and who had migrated westward. Korea which was now
bounded by the T'umSn, in former ages spread right into the province of which Pekin
was the capital. In the eastern end of that province there were still remains of
ancient Korean cities. The authorities of all tiie three eastern provinces were
obliged to present their reports to Court in Manchu as well as in Chinese. The
whole Court at Pekin used the Manchu language en families and even Chinese
officials when they had passed the highest degrees were commanded to study it,
though they did not go very far. He deprecated the drawing of any distmction
between Manchuria and the rest of China politically, whether in respect of its
people or its officials. There was no reason to suppose that an inferior class of
officials was sent there. In former days the provinces of Kirin and Tsitsihar were
used, among other purposes, as places of exile for peccant officials, but they were
administered by very high personages indeed, by cousins of the Emperor, and by
officials possessing in every respect as high a status as any in the empire. It was
one of the blood imperial who was governing Kirin in 1868 when General Muiavief
crossed the Amur and extorted a treaty from him coDoeding to Russia fix>m the
2 s 2
666
A JOURNEY m JIAKCimrJA,— DISCOSSrON,
Sea of Okotsk down to Yladivostock, aome 20** of ktttude. The tlien emperor ha^
bad on his hftnda for six years the Taepiog rebellion, and had juat got into a (|uaiTel
with Eogland and France, but notwithstanding that he hy no means BUrrendered
the coimtry with iadiflerence : on the contrary, while he did not punish iiia cousin,
he exposed the second in command for two mouths in a wootlen collar on the
banks of the Amur, Two years later, when the French and EngUsli armies had
advanced to Pekin, and when General Ignatief was negotiating with regard td
the frontiers, the pressnre of drcumstancea snrrounding the Imperial Court waa
such as 1o leave them no option hut to concede whatever Hussia chose to take.
Still be did not believe that the Chinese now contemplated any attempt to recover
the 20^ of coMt-!ine, They were epeading vast suma upon the purcbaso of Krupp
gnus and the manufacture of arms, but there were very good reasons why they
should do so. Ever sinco 1860 foreiguers had been hammering away at China to
adopt their steamers and rail way a, and bridges, and arms^ and to drill troops ; it
therefore cotild not be wondered at that they were taking steps to defend themselvei.
He rejoiced to hear such an excellent account as Mr, James had given of the climate
and couDtry of Manchuria, One of tlie early writers said of it, ** Although it u
doubtful in what part of the world the Creator may have placed Paradise, it is
nnquestionable that Pamdise could not have been placed in Manchuria, and tKia
1 infer from the aridity of the soil and the frigidity of the climate/ The tobacco of
Manchuria was extremely esteemed in Cliina, and watj a source of considerahl©
revenue at Peltln. There was a very heavy octroi laid upon it at Pekiog,
and it was a Government monopoly. But ^lancliuria by no means ^ took the
lead among the poppy producing provinces of the empire. He was glad of the
opportunity of gainsaying the assertion that Englishmen introduced opium into
China, It was introduced there by the Portuguese, near the end of the 16th century^
and when its imix>rtation became so serious a question between China and England,
it was already grown to an enormous extent in China itself. At the time of the
war in 1839 the English importation into the country would not have supplied one
per cent, of the population, and within seven years of that date the poppy was
ascertained to be cultivated in ten of the eighteen provinces; that grown in Kansu
being si>oken of as rivalling the foreign opium. He congratulated Mr, James on
having penetrated the mystery of the Chiang Fai Shan, the Long White Mountaina.
Owing to a confusion between ch^anf^^ perj>otunl, and cha^tig^ long, the range had been
snpixjsed to be covered with eternal snow, which would have justified llie assertion cf
diflerent travellers that tliey were so many thousand feet high. The Chinese got rid
of the questloQ by sometimes saying they were 10,000 feet, and sometimes 100,000
feet high. Mr. James, kowever, haii discovered that the whiteness w^as not owing to
snow, bnt to a pumice stone. The lake which had been mentioned had a foremost
place in the consideration of the present dynasty. The legend was that years ago
three ladies were liathing there, when one waa met by a stork, which laid some fruit
on her lap, and she became the mother of the Manebu race, which now reigned in
China. The ilanchus therefore had brought themselves to regard the Ch*ang Pai Shan
aa Bacred ground, and it bad been the subject of compositions both in prcwo and
verse of the great emperor Kien-lung, who reigned in the middle of the last century.
In a paper preserved in an admirable geography, prepared about 100 years ago,
Odoli was specially mentioned by him as being about 500 miles to the east*^
probably north-east was meant^ — of a city calkd Hsing Ching, where were the tomb*
of all the early emperors of the dynasty, and which was famous in past ages as tho
capital of the race from w^hick the Manchus were descended. He suspected that it
would be found in the neighbourhood of Tung Ching Cheng, the eastern capital of
an ancient powtr. He hoped that Mr. James's interesting journey would encourage
A JOURNEY IN MANCHUMA.— DISCUSSION. 567
•other travellers to make the attempt to decide the position of Odoli, in the existence
of which he had the fullest faith.
Mr. James said that Mr. Ross, the accomplished author of ' The Manchas,* was
of opinion that the Manchas were unable to locate Odoli at all : on the other hand,
M. Boyer, the Roman Catholic coadjutor bishop of Manchuria, thought, with Sir
Thomas Wade, that Tung Ching Chgng was probably about the site of it. The
description of Tung Ching ChSng did not, however, agree with that given by Vhre
Du Halde, who said it was situated in the midst of a lake, with lofty staircases, and
a causeway approaching it Mr. Ross's researches led him to the conclusion that
the cradle of the Manchn race was in the valley south, not east, of the Ch'ang Pal
Shan, called Huatoola, at a place known as Lao-chSng, or old town, and afterwards
at Hing-Eing, where there was at the present day only an insignificant yamen.
Hing-King was situated a few miles to the east of Timg-ling, the tombs of the
£mperor*s ancestors, the place marked as Yenden or Shing-kiug on the maps. It
was certainly a fact that the Russians began exploring the mouth of the Amur as
•early as 1847, and in 1851 the towns of Nikolayevsk and Mariinsh were founded on
the Lower Amur, followed by two others in 1853. But it was during the Crimean
war they found how useful the river was. With regard to the Mandarins, when he
was there the Governor-Generalship of Tsitsihar was vacant, the officer holding that
post having, so it was said, just been dismissed for corruption ; so, though it might
be possible, he feared it was hardly likely that it was an exceptional state of
things that he met with.
Mr. H. H. HowoBTH drew attention to the enormous amoimt of information
published by the Russians in the ' Peking Mission.* In one volume which had
been translated into German, there was a most elaborate discussion with regard to
old sites, including Odoli, and the towns from which the Manchus sprang. One
race, which had virtually disappeared from history, had a small fragment still
remaining, — the famous dynasty of the Ehetans. There was one tribe, which
supplied a large number of bannermen to the Chinese army, called the Solans. It
would be interesting to know if Mr. James had come into contact with them, and
had collected a vocabulary of any of their words. He believed there was no doubt
that they were descendants from the old race which blended the Mongols and
Manchurians proper.
Sir Thos. Wadb said the Solans were regarded as the cream of the Manchus.
With regard to Tung-ching-chang, the word ching indicated the residence of the
Emperor, and at one time the Khetan dynasty had five capitals.
The Pbesident congratulated the Society on having listened to such an ex-
tremely interesting paper. Very little was known about Manchuria, and if any one
thought there was any difficulty about finding a field for geographical research in
the future, he should now be satisfied that there was plenty of groimd still to be
explored.
668
THE ABORIGINAL ISDIAX RACES
The Aboriffiual Indian Races of the State of Vera Oruz, Mexico,
By A. Baker, British Consd, Vera Cruz.*
TiiE origin of tlie aboriginal tribes of Yera Cruz is involved in doubt ;
they may have descended from tho Toltecs or the AatecSp or from a
mixtnre of one or both of these peoples with other races. At tho present
moment there is nothing to distinguish these tribes from each other
except their languages, and even thiB distinction is fast disappearing
before the advance of civilisation ever accompanied by the language ot
the original conquerors— Spanish. l<angnage being thus tho only dis-
tinction available, it will be as well to consider at once its statistics ;
and to appreciate tho importancje of the Indian element in the population
one must glance at the whole. The following table gives the numbers
of the Spanish and Indian elements of tho population of this State,
which may be taken at 620,000 sonls, exclusive of foroignerja.
1. Creoles , ,.
Irt. Iniin-Creolea (« Mestizos ")
lb» LsdiauB »«
f 2. ^lexic&u
3. Totonaco
Races of iDdlarts
flpeakinfj princi-
jjally thoir own
langvageA, arid
but very little
or no Spanisli,
4, Huaatcco .«
5. Otomi
G* Popoloeo ..
7. Tepehua ..
S. Zapoteeo .,
9. CMtiaiiteoo
^10. Mayo *•
&9,20O
262, IGO
31 » 000
irroo I
43 '2«
5*00
392,360
161,000
63 -26
2C'00
32,000
516
16,000
2-58
S,00O
7,400
1,400 ;
1,200
1-29
1*20
•22
-19
200
•03
440
■07
620,000
100-00
These (J3-2G per cent,
of tbe total jKipula-
tion siieak Bpaaiah
OS their principal, or
only laiipfuage.
Spoken in all parts of the
IStfttu; canton of Zun*
gt^Liea apeaka it almost
excluBiTely.
Spoken in tho cantons of
Jalapo, Miaantla, P*i-
pantla, and Tuxpan.
Spoken in Taotayuea and
Tax pan.
Bpoken in Chicontepec.
Spoken in Acayucan.
Spoken in Chicootepeo.
Spoken in GoBaiuiiiua*
pam.
Spoken in Cosamoloa-
pam.
Spoken m Tuxtla«
As will be seen from the foregoing table, 15 per cent, of the popn*
lation aro Creoles, i. e. descendants of the Spanish conc|uerors and immi-
grants, whilst over 43 per cent, are of mixed race, and 5 per cent, aro
Indians who from living in towns and thus coming in contact with the
Spanish language have gradually adopted it to the entire, or partial,
exclufcion of their tribal tongnes. Thus the Spanish-speaking population
amounts to 63 '2G per cent, of the whole ; the remaining 36*74 per cent*
speaking their own languages, nine in number. If to this 36- 74 per
cent, one adds the 5 per cent, of Spanieh-speaking Indians, wo arrive at
41 ■ 74 per cent, as the total aboriginal proportion of tho population, TM&
• Communicated by the Foreign OlEce.
OF THE STATE OF VEBA CRUZ, MEXICO.
569
proportion is muoh smaller than in the other States of the Bepublic, and
the explanation may be found in the fact that the State of Vera Cmz,
by reason of its seaboard and its commerce, has had a civilising effect
on the Indian, and has in great measure assimilated him (witness the
43 per cent, of Indo-Oreoles), and has, on the other hand, driven into
the interior those Indians for whom the civilisation offered to them had
no charms.
Of the nine Indian races speaking their own languages only one,
the '* Mexican," is found in all the eighteen cantons of the State : the
remaining eight races are found in considerable numbers in nine only
of the cantons, and each race seems to restrict itself to a more or less
limited area. The following list of these nine cantons, and one other
— ^Zongolica — ^ten in all, gives their entire population of each race
(including the SpanishH9peaking), so as to show at a glance the pro-
portion each race bears to its neighbours ; but it will be borne in mind
that the cantons in this list comprise but 144,800 of 392,360 Spanish-
speaking races, and but 91,980 of the 161,000 '* Mexican" speaking
race, the balance of the two larger numbers being distributed over the
remaining eight cantons of the State.
List of Cantons gontainino Xatitb Indian PoFULATXCm, showing the nomber
of eiich race speaking its own language.
rnTitAF*.
1,
1
"i
t
W3
2,
d
1
a
4.
1
5.
6,
7.
1
4
P.
1
6
10.
s
1. Jal&pa .. ..
a Papantia
$. TiLntaji]ca ».
a Gliioontepec ,*
7, Acayucan
0. T^tlft ., ,.
44,000
7,400
10,800
17,000
11,600
11,500
7,000
19,000
13,700
2,800
400
680
8,400
13,000
24,800
5,050
, e^o
15,000
9,500
4,200
9, GOO
8,400
4,700
10,700
,7,800
• *
7,400
1,400
"*
9S0
200
430
10« Eongolica
HS,500
i,aoo
71^980
20,000
31,700
15,400
7,800
7,400
1,400
9^
200
430
I44,S00£»l,dS0
1
,.
-
-
»
-
».
570
THE ABORIGINAL INDIAN RACES
In the above ten cjantone the SpaniBh-Bpeaking amount to 144,800,
whilst the non-Spanibh tspoakiug races number 157,260.
The most important langnage (next to Spanish) Is, as will bo seen, the
sfvcalletl *' Mexican/' spoken by 26 per cent, of the whole population of
the State, and the canton of Zongolica has been added to the above list
because in that canton Mexican is sp>okeu by 20,000 of its entire popu-
lation of 21,300, the odd 1300 only being SpaniBh-speaking. The
explanation of this fact is that the canton of Zongolica is mountainous
and difficult of access, and has thtis escaped almost entirely the invasion
of the Euroi>ean, so that the original tribe (Mexican) has been there
undisturbed.
In the mountainous districts of Tuxpan, Tantayuca, and Chioontepec
(forming a crescent from the coast inwards), and of Tuxtla round the
volcano of San Andre, this tribe (the Mexican) has held its ground and
is much superior in numbers to the Spanish-speaking races*
Next in importance to the ** Mexican '* comes the Totonaca tribe
numbering 31,700, and occupying an irregular strip of mountainoua
territory about 200 kilometres long by 50 broad, and extending over
parts of four cantons, viz, Jalapa, Miaantla, Papantla, and Tuxpan.
The Huastoco tribe, 15,400 strong, inhabit the adjoining cantons of
Tuxpan and Tantayuca* The Otomi tribe, 78,000, has its stronghold in
Chicontepec, and tho Popoloco, 7400, in Acayucan. The Tepehua is a
small tribe of 1400, and is settled in Chicontepec.
The only tribes in the state of Vera Cruz, south of tho city of Vera
Cruz, are the Mexican and the Popoloco already mentionetl, and tho
Zapateco, i>50, and Chinanteco 200, both in CoeamaliSapam, and the
Mayo, 4.^0, in Tuxtla, And it will bo observed that it is chiefly in tho
lowlands that the native Indian, or at all events bis language, is con-
apicuoufily absent.
The native Indian is somewhat shorter than the European, and
although he is thin he is ** wiry,'* and capable of enduring fatigue and
hardship even better than the white man or negro. His skin is fine
and soft, his colour ranges from broTi\Tiish- yellow to nearly white,
accordiug to climate (for the State of Vera Cruz presents three distinct
climates ; tropical near the coast, temperate at elevations of 4000 feet,
and frigid above 9000 feet). His forehead is broad, but not very high,
and bis coarse black hair falls in straight lines over it, giving it the
appearance of being even lower than it is. His eyes are small but keen,
ver}- black, and being deeply set in their sockets give their owner an
air of ferocity rather characteristic of hia sad history than indicative
of his present character. Hia nose is large but not ill-shaped, being
generally aquiline. His cheek-bones are pronoimced and lend fcome
support to the theory of the Indian^s Mongolian origin. His limbs,
though spare, are muscular, and he carries heavy burdens long distanceB
with less fatigue than a European.
:
OF THE STATE OF VERA CRUZ, MEXICO. 571
Neither the male nor the female Indian is remarkable for personal
beauty, which may account for the limited extent to which the European
and Indian races have mixed. The Indian woman is almost as strong
physically as her husband, and she generally brings her children into
the world without assistance. It is true that a large proportion of the
children die in infancy, unable to battle with the hardship of their
surroundings, and this mortality has the effect of restraining the increase
of the Indian race and of maintaining its physical standard by the
action of " the survival of the fittest."
The Indian is decidedly brave and fights well on the side (whichever
it is) which has enlisted him, or rather pressed him into its service.
But he has no sentiment of patriotism, or rather his patriotism is tribal
and has little or nothing in common with that of the ruling white race,
to whom he has been, since the conquest, nothing more than a hewer of
wood and drawer of water. He is industrious where he sees an oppor-
tunity of enjoying the fruits of his labours, but he is inclined to be
lazy when he is in the service of hard masters at the starvation rate of
wages — 2 reales, lOd., per day — which is but too general.
The Indian possesses a large imagination, and exercises it, from
what he considers necessity, as extensively as the Bussian does for
amusement, but he has no more of this vice of slaves than his past
history would lead one to expect.
The Indian is honest, and seldom yields to even the greatest tempta-
tion to steal. His honesty is natural, while his untruthfulness is
evidently only acquired as a weapon against what he considers the
tyranny of the ruling race.
As a rule the Indian is sober, though, like other races, he often
drowns bis troubles in alcohol, generally in the shape of pvdgue (juice
of the maguey plant), or aguardiente (spirits.)
The Indian is religious, indeed superstitious, and is very much
under the influence of the clergy, the only class that has taught him
that he is a man ; for the conquerors by word and deed denied him the
possession of a soul, and their successors have often forgotten the finot
that the question was decided by a council in the afiirmative. It might
be thought that the conversion of the aboriginal races to the religion of
their conquerors would have softened the asperities of their relative
position, but it has had in this State a contrary effect; for the common
religion taught the Indian that he was entitled to the rights of citizen-
ship, whilst his conquerors denied him those rights, and used him as
a beast of burden in peace and as " food for cannon " in war. The
Indian to this day believes that the *' white " civilisation is condemned
by the religion, and the priests of the religion, it brought in its train ;
and to this belief may be traced the Indian's unbounded suspicion of the
white man. This suspicion is ever asserting itself. When the Spaniards
quitted the country they attempted to carry with them more treasure
572
tHE ABORIGINAL ENDIAK RACES
than they could transport to the coast, and they had to ahandon largo
caravans of precious metals. These they buried in the ground with the
aasistance of their Indian carters, men and boys ; they then killed the
grown-up carters to prevent their Btealing the treasure, but they often
spared the boys, simply carrying them off long journeys away from the
points where the treasure was buried. There are still IndxaDs alive who
know, or think they know, of these buried treasures, and they would be
entitled to a large share of them if they *' denounced " them - but their
suspicion of the white man is bo great that they will not take him into
their confidence on any terms, satisfied that if they told him of the
treaaure he would keep it all for himself in spite of law and justice ! and
80 the hidden treasure remains unfound.
The Indian is decidedly intelligent, and has, when occasion cbanced
to present itself, shone in art, poetry, diplomacy, and statesmanship. It
h only fifteen years ago that Benito Juarez died President of tho
Republic; he was an Indian of unmixed jace, and he lived at an epoch
of Mexican history when intelligence and strength of character were
necessary qualities for success in pablic affairs, either military or civil.
The condition of tho Indian since the Independence, and pai*ticularly
since the " laws of reform," has no doubt been ameliorated in some
me&Bure, but in no sense radically. And unfortunately neither Benito
Juarez nor any other Indian who has achieved power and influence has
found time or opportunity for assisting his race. The general policy
has been not to establish the Indian on the soil he is so capable
of tilling, but to hand it over to foreign colonists. The experiments of
foreign colonisation made in this State have, bowever, not been very sno-
ceesful, and one of them — ^of Southern Italians— has been a disastrous
and expensive failure. The Indian's connection with the soil is still the
humble one of agricultural labourer^ with wages sufficient, it is true, to
keep body and soul together, hut insufficient to provide decent housing
or clothing.
The Indian is still pressed into the army, and being poor, imnnot
often enforce his conutitutional rights in the matter, though that such
righta exist is proved by tho number of appeals to the courts which
Indians with well-to-do friends are able to prosecute.
He is almost entirely unedticated. Ho is taught little by his
masters, spiritual or temporal ; and what he does learn he generally
learns in tho barracks, and under such uncongenial circumstances, that
he deserts his barracks and barrack-school on the first opportunity,
although his home has no material attractions of any sort, being simply
a wattled mud hut.
In short, the Indian, in spite of his legal rights of equality, ia in
fact still the hewer of wood and drawer of water ho always has been to
the race that brought him civilisation and religion, the latter of which
only has he been able to assimilato and share with his conquerors.
OF THE STATE OF VERA CRUZ, MEXICO. 678
What will be the ultimate &te of the Indian in this country is a
very grave question, and its answer is at present doubtful. Some think
he will entirely disappear before the superior white race — ^that the
little of his blood that flows with white in the same yeins will, each
generation, become less and less, till all trace of it be lost with aban-
doned pedigrees, and his existence become a matter of remote history.
Others, and these seem the more numerous, have faith in the physical^
mental, and moral qualities of the Indian, and believe he will ultimately
'* colonise " his native land, cultivate its rich and boundless fields and
prairies, learn to have '* necessities " and to consume manufetctures, and
in a word become a civilised citizen, enriching commerce and the State
by his intelligent agriculture.
Amongst those who have faith in the future of the Indian must be
numbered Mr. Bafael de Zayas Enriquez, who has just published an
able work on the subject, under the title of *The Redemption of a
Bace.' Mr. Zayas is an advocate and a journalist (proprietor and editor
of the FerrihcarrU^ a daily newspaper published in Vera Cruz). In
politics he is a supporter of the present Government, and he dedicates
his work to President Diaz. But the work itself is in no sense political,
and as regards the position of the Indian, it metes out praise and
blame, and particularly blame, with perfect impartiality to all the
administrations, of whatever party, that have existed in Mexico since
the Independence.
Mr. Zayas deals with the whole Indian population of the Bepublio
(7,000,000 in number), and therefore covers a much larger area than does
this report, but his conclusions are as applicable to the State of Vera
Cruz as to the other States of the Bepublio, and as Mr. Zayas's views
are shared by a considerable number of patriotic public men, it may be
well to quote them on the subject of the future of the Indian and what
should be done to assure it
Mr. Zayas is of opinion that the present laws are quite adequate to
the protection of the Indian, and that all that is required is to take
means for their impartial application to Indian and white man alike.
To attain this end he would establish, under the auspices of the Govern-
ment, in each State, " societies for the redemption of the Indian " (just
as in Europe one establishes societies for the protection of animals).
These societies would encourage the education of the Indian, protect
him from all imposition on the part of his master, arbitrate between
him and his master in case of doubtful disputes, protect him from being
pressed illegally into the military service, supplying the necessary funds
for carrying his complaint to the tribunals, encourage him to join benefit
societies and to deposit his]money in savings banks instead of hiding it,
encourage him to live on the plains and near roads instead of in the
inaccessible forests and mountains.
Whether these means will be adopted, and, if adopted, will prove
574
LVDIAN SURVEYS, 188^-6.
adequate to the *' redemption of the Indian " ie a question that time
alone can solve. But it docs seem highly probahle that a sparsely
populated coimtry like this and the other States of the Mexican Republic
will, sooner or later, direct its serious attention to its Indian races and
their capacity for cultivating its rich soil, not as serfs, but as farmers or
even peasant proprietors. And if once the Indian succeed in regaining a
stake in his country, then indeed there will be no doubt of his redemp-
tion. But will he?
Veba Ciiuz, Juhj 22nif, 1887.
Indian Surveys^ 1885^.
The record of work of tho Indian Surveys for the year 1885-6, under the
direction of Lieut.-Coloiiel H. K. Thnillier, k.e., officiating surveyor-general, is
noticeable for the completion of the work of the Afgbao Boundary Commission.
Althougli there was much delay in the settlement of the actual boundary, this delay
was turned to good account hy Colonel Holdich and Captains Gore and Talbot, who
by makiag the most of every opportunity that presented itself, and being efficiently
aided hj some of their brotlier*officerB, not to mention the valuiible assistance given
hy members of tbe native staff who penetmted into regions where it was daugerotiti
for the Europeans to venture, succeeded in makiag a reconimisBaticc Burvey of a very
largiB portion of Afghanistan, amountinj; to an area of upwards of 120,000 square
miles. The whole of this work ia ba&ed on a network of triangnlation mainly
executed by Captain Talbot, extending from Mashhad in the west, on the position
of which (determioed by Captain Gore) the longitudes depend, to beyond Oabul on
the east and to Farah on the south, a connection giving the work a value far beyond
that generally appertaining to geographical surveys. Sjiecial maps of Herat, Bala,
Murghab, Maruchak, and other strongholds have been prepared, while the boundary
deooarcation itself is represented by a map in five sheets of the combined RuBsian
and EngUsh topography, showing a strip of eight miles adjoining the boundary, on
ihe scale of half an inch to the mile ; one copy of the English topography on the
quarter-inch scalo showing the boundary in relation to the roads, rivers^ and jiassea
over to the mountains to the south, in three sheets, and special maps of the country
between Baulatabad and the Oxus, and of the Khamiab district, regarding which
negotiations have since been concluded in St. Petersburg. At the suggestion of
the Secretary of State for India, Colonel Holdich has prepared an interesting report
on the geographical work of the boundary, and as this has been deisignedly written
for publication, it is to be hoped that its appearance may not be long delayed.
Colonel Holdich will bIso hereafter i>repare a general report, w hick ivill include
the great body of the computations, and form, with previous reports on Afghanistan,
a complete synoptical volume of the survey of India series. The duty of under-
taking the preparation of the entire series of maps and of constructing one general
map of Afglianistan, has been entrusted to Captain Gore, b.e., who is now engaged
on the work in India, In connection with tlie Boundary Survey, it may bo men-
tioned that interesting refjorts have been written by individual officers of very
imperfectly known tracts, such as one by Captain the Hon. JI, G. Talbot, of
Daulaty&r, Haibak, and the Balka survey (a notice of which appeared in our
' Proceedings *), a report by Sub-surveyor Mira Sing on tho Fimzkuhi country, and
INDIAN SURVEYS, 1885-6. 675
by Sub-gurveyor Imam Sharif on the Taimani country and the districts south of
Herat. In the second of these reports light is shed on the formation of au
important mountain range of Northern Afghanistan, the Band-i-Torkestan, which
is described as a separate mountain system from the Paropamisus, the connecting
link between the two on the east being an insignificant watershed formed by an
irregular ridge of soft clay and sand. Its configuration is that of a series of
approximately horizontal plateaux, occasionally divided laterally by sheltered
valleys, and singularly accessible along the main watershed. The source of the
Hari Bud, according to Captain Talbot's researches, proved to be at an altitude of
some 12,000 feet above sea-level, about latitude 34° SO' and longitude 67° O', and
flows for some 70 or 80 miles, under the name of the Ab-i-Sar-i-jangal, to Daulatyar,
almost due west, and in a different direction from that hitherto shown on our maps.
In Imam Sharifs journey through the Taimani country one interesting identification
was the Chalopdalan or Chahil Abdal peak, a solitary mountain, 12,000 feet in
height, said to be the " Takht " of Zohak-i-Maran, the snake-bearing governor of these
provinces in the days of Ghur, and it was from here that he built the massivejwalls
and towers of the old forts which surround Taiwara, and border the way to Ghur.
In addition .to the above work, the survey of a considerable portion of Eastern
Khorassan has been executed, and has recently been continued by Captain Gore,
who, returning to India through Persia, has surveyed the route from Herat vi&
Birjaud through the Lut desert to Kirman and Dandar Abbass.
The military occupation of Upper Burma in 1886 afforded scope for geography,
and Captain Hobday, with a moderate establishment of surveyors, has been most
actively engaged on various important and diligent pieces of survey work, chief
nmong which may be mentioned a general map of Upper Burma, from 19° to 26^ N.
latitude, and from the meridian of 94° to 98° E. longitude, and a survey of the city
of Mandalay and environs, covering an area of about 50 square miles. In Upper
Burma principal triangulation will soon become necessary for the accurate adjust-
ment of the military and topographical surveys which are being carried on, but in
the present state of the country so extensive a project would be premature.
One small party during the year ended March 1886 was engaged in secondary
triangulation from Coconada to Masulipatam on the east coast. Tidal observa-
tions were carried on at seventeen stations, four of which were new, viz.
Bhavnagar, Cochin, Coconada, and Chittagong ; while at three. Diamond Harbour,
Amherst, and Moulmein, the observations have been discontinued, in consequence of
the usual period of five years' registration having been completed.
The out-turn of topography executed during the year amounts to 19,162 square
miles, exclusive of forest surveys, the bulk of this being on the 2-inch scale. Three
of the parties, viz. those in the Andaman Islands, Cutch, and Mysore, completed
their tasks, and the first of these was deputed to the Nicobars to undertake a survey
of those islands. Six parties were employed on cadastral surveys, and in addition
to these riverain, forest, and traverse surveys were also in operation.
Colonel Woodthorpe, B.E., whose deputation to join the Gilgit Mission has been
already referred to in the pages of these ' Proceedings,' has thoroughly sustained his
reputation as a most able and intrepid expbrer, and has brought back a nuus of
valuable information and surveys, covering in all about 10,000 square miles of the
important and little-known districts of Yasin, Chitral, Hunza-Nagyr, and Wakban.
The reports and maps, as well as those belonging to the explorations in Tibet of
M — H. and R — X., referred to in the President^ Annual Address (see ' ProceediDgi'
for June last, p. ^2), are under preparation.
( 576 )
GEOGElPmCAL NOTES.
Discovery of Two New Elvers in Hew Gainea.^ — ^In the course of a
eliort exploratory visit of bix weeks' duration, in Marcli and April last, to
tho delta region known as Aird river, our Associato, Mr. Theodore Bevan^
made the important discovery of two large rivers, flowing from the interior
highlands at a distance apart of about 60 miles, into that part of the
Gnlf of Papua, Fumidied by the liberality of the enterpriging mer-
chants, Messrs* Buras, Philp, & Co., with a well-equipped steamer, the
Vicioryy Mr. Bevan and party left Thursday Island on the 15th of March,
and proceeding up the Aird, fonnd a large navigable stream entering
the head of the delta, up which they steamed for about 100 miles, beside*"!
penetrating some distance up two of its tributaries. This river he has
named tho Douglas* The second river, named by Mr* Bevan the Jubilee,
was entered from Bald Head, and navigated for about the same distance
as the Douglaa. His time having nearly expired, he was obliged to
turn back, when apparently on the threshold of most valuable dis-
coveries; the river at that point being still 300 yards wide, and the
country hilly and pictnjresque, with rang© after range visible towards
the interior, capped by a series of lofty mountain peaks in the blue
distance. The trip is stated to be only a preliminary one, and we hope
that Mr. Bevan's successful dash will be rewarded by his being supplied
with the means of following up his discoveiy*
Antarctic Exploration, — The Councils of the Royal Society of Yio-
toria and the Victorian Branch of the Eoyal Geographical Society of
Australasia have jointly addressed, through Capt. Crawford Pasco, r.n.,
the President of the Joint Committee of the two societies, a letter to
Sir Erasmus Ommanney, Secretary to the Antarctic Committee of tho
British Aasociation, expressing a hope that the expediency of a national
expedition for the further exploration of the Antarctic Regions will be
urged upon the Home Government The Australian Societies them-
selves are contemplating, if funds can be raised, to encourage by means
of money grants for definite results, a preliminarj' exploration by private
vessels, partly with scientific, partly with commercial objects. They
state that the cost of a purely scientific expedition is more than any
colony would defray single-handed, Tfhe joint committee had taken
csonaiderable pains to ascertain whether any unrecorded exploratory
work by whalers and sealers has been done south of 60^ since tho
memorable voyage of Boss, and have found that these seamen, one and
all, have avoided these high latitudes ; the rough seas prevailing between
40° and 55^ S,, notwithstanding the abundance of fish, being fatal to
anccessful whaling, and that they dare not cruise in the calmer seas
south of BB*^ on account of the iee.
Survey Work in Burma. — From Burma wo learn that Captain
Hobday returned to Mandalay early in May from hie trip to Thibaw,
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 577
in tho Shan States, with tho foroo that accompanied the Tsawbwa of
that place back to his capital, after having been away just two months.
He says that he and snbHsnrveyor Faida Ali managed to do a good deal
of work notwithstanding the hazy state of the atmosphere. The party
will remain during the wet season at Mandalay, bnt as the rains are
light, field work will be continned when opportunities occur till the end
of July, after which the country is too unhealthy to move about in. In
the middle of November regular field work will recommence. Colonel
Woodthorpe has managed to effect a junction between his triangulation
which he carried down the Kyendwin from Manipur, and that of
Captain Hobday, round Mandalay.
Survey of Travancore and neighbouring States. — The Government
of India have sanctioned a topographical survey of the Native States of
Travancore, Cochin, and Pudukottai, which will be undertaken by
No. 19 (Madras) party on the completion of its operations in the Madura
district. Some parts of the existing maps of the mountainous tracts of
Travancore and Cochin are absolutely blank, and the topography of the
hills is quite unreliable, the survey having been executed nearly seventy
years ago.
The Eussian Expedition to the New Siberian Islands. — A paper
read by Dr. A. Bunge before the Imperial Geographical Society of Eussia
gives some details of the work accomplished by this important expedi-
tion, to the progress of which we have from time to time referred.*
Baron von Toll, the colleague of Dr. Bunge, started in April 1886, from
Aidshergaidach for the island of Liakov, with the object of studying
its geological character. He was joined shortly afterwards by Dr.
Bunge, who brought the rest of the stores and provisions. It was then
decided to divide the party. Dr. Bunge undertaking an exploration of
the island of Liakov, which was reported to be especially rich in bone
fossils, while von Toll proceeded to the island of Kotelny. Before
executing this project tho former traveller attempted a topographical
survey of a part of the east coast of Kotelny, but with small success,
owing to tho unfavourable weather and the lack of fuel, which collects
as driftwood only in certain localities. He consequently returned to
the southern extremity of the island, where he killed the only polar
bear which was seen in the course of the expedition, and then crossed
over to the island of Liakov on the 25th May. Meanwhile, von Toll
had visited the islands of Fadeief and New Siberia. On the latter he
made a special exploration of the mountain known to travellers of the
beginning of the present century as the " wood-mountain," which was
found to be a beautiful tertiary profile with carbonised tree-trunks and
a rich collection of leaf impressions and fruits, corresponding exactly
with tho tertiary flora of Greenland and Spitzbergen, as described by
* See * Pxooeedings EG.S.,' 1887, pp. 119 et ante.
578
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
Oswald Heer. On returning to Kotelny he commenced at once bis er-
plomtioB of the island, making a complete circle of it in forty days.
From the northern point of the island he obtained a view of the still
nntrodden land of Ssannikov ; he estimated the distance at about 100
miles. As regards geology » the northern half of Kotelny consists of
Devonian strata, while in the south Trias formations exist. The flora
shows Bome thirty species of lowering plants. The summer was very
unfavourable ; the temperature only once rose to 50^ Fabr., while snow
showers fell nearly every day. The whole coast was blocked by ice, and
in the majority of valleys the snow remained througbout the summer.
At the end of October, von Toll, who bad spent the cohi period of
September and October in a comparatively comfortable winter hut, re-
joined his companion at Liakov* Dn Bunge woe considerably hampered
in his exploration of this island by the want of reindeer for the pur-
poses of transport ; by some mistake the majority of these animals were
sent to Kotelny, and owing to the advanced season could not get back. He
was able, however^ to do some good work. With tho exception of some
granite peaks the prevailing formations of the island are quaternary;
tho ice blocks are covered with loamy deposits, in which are found
fossil bones. There are conditions here which appear to he exactly
similar to those at Eschschok Bay in Bebring Straits, Besides the fossil
remains of the mammoth, rhinoceros, and musk ox. Dr. Bunge discovered
remains of two species of oxen, dear, horses, and of some smaller animals,
from the study of which interesting results may be expected. The flora
is richer than that of Kotelny. The traveller collected about seventy
phanerogams. In small pools, notwithstanding tho frozen ground,
numerous worms and fresb-water Crustacea were found, as the water
reached a temperature of nearly 61 "" Fabr. The summer temperature
was practically the same as that of Kotelny, although there were more
days free from snow showers* Both islands are much poorer in birds
than might have been supposed considering their situation ; tho insect
world is also poorly represented* There are but few fish on the island
of Liakov, but some fine salmon were found on Kotelny,
Cinchona Cultivation in the Island of Eeunion. — Mr. C. L. St John,
British Consul at Reunion, in bis Annual Report (No. 207) on the
trade of the island speaks of the plantatious of cinchona, which have
excited for some years considerable attention in Reunion, Although
they have not yet assumed any extensive development, the results are
very satisfactory. The plantations are made at an altitude of about
4000 feet, where no high trees exist, but merely brushwood. Parallel
alleys from five to six feet wide are formed in spots sheltered^ if
possible , from the violent winds so oommon in Reunion. These alleys
are separated by ranges of brushwood 10 feet wide, which serve to
protect the young cinchona plants from the wind. The latter ore
planted in prepared eoil 15 feet apart. The plants thus grow without
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 679
diffionlty, oare being taken to keep them free from tlie roots of the
brush-wood. At the end of seven or eight years they reach a diameter
of 3^ inches, and are ready to be worked. Abont the month of October,
when the sap resumes its upward movement, the plants are cnt down at
abont two inches from the ground. The bark is then taken ofif and laid
in the sun to dry. From the stump a large number of yoxmg shoots
«oon spring, which have a rapid growth, so that at the end of seven or
eight years a new crop is ready. In this way the cultivation of the
cinchona, when once started, can be kept up at little expense.
The Discovery of the Congo. — The Yisconde de Sanches de Baena
claims to have shed a clear light upon the disputed chronologies of
Diogo Cao's (Cam) voyages to the west coast of Africa. A careful
examination of unpublished documents has led him to the conclusion
that Cao started on his first voyage in 1482, and remained away nine-
teen months. It was during this voyage that he set up the jpedrapadrao
at the mouth of the Congo, fragments of which have recently been dis-
covered by Senhor Fran9a and Baron Schwerin, or rather rediscovered,
as Sir E. Burton described these same fragments in ' A Trip to Oorilla
Land and the Congo.* After his return Diogo Cao was granted a coat of
armsy the patent of which is dated Santarem, April 14th, 1484. He set
out on a second voyage in 1485, in the course of which he erected similar
stone pillars on Cape Agostinho and Cape Cross. If this chronology is
correct, the legend on Behaim's globe, which informs us that the pillar at
Cape Cross was erected on January 18th, 1485, can scarcely be correct.
Peschel* assumes that Diogo Cao only performed one voyage, from
which he returned, after an absence of nineteen months, in 1486.
Major t says that the Congo was discovered in 1484, and that the pillars
further to the south were set up during a second voyage in 1485.$
Blue Kountain Peak, Jamaica. — According to a careful series of
observations, taken with exceUent instruments, by Mr. Maxwell Hall,
in November last, the height of the Blue Mountain Peak, Jamaica
(north-western summit), is 7423 feet above sea-level. The mean tem-
perature of the air on the peak has been shown by the same accurate
observer, after applying the due correction to a long series of readings
taken during 1885-6, to be, max. 71°' 1, min. 46° '3. As a result of
observations on temperature and elevation made at successive altitudes
from the sea-level to the summit, Mr. Hall concludes that 14,000 feet
would be the lower limit of perpetual snow for Jamaica, the pressure at
that height being 18 inches, corresponding to a mean temperature of 32°,
The Bahamas. — ^In a recent official report, Mr. H. A. Blake, Governor
of the Bahamas, gives an interesting general description of this extensive
* * Geschichte des Zeitalters der Entdeckungen,' p. 69.
t * Princo Henry the Navigator.'
X ' Boletin ' Lisbon Geographical Society, 1886, pp. 55-6.
No. TX.— Skft. 1887.] 2 t
580
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
group of low islands, founded partly on the ecientifio investigationB of
Mr. J, Oardiner (B.Se, London). He says the numerons islands and
ifilete forming the gixjup lia mostly on the eastward or windward edges
of the Bahama banks, and vary in size from Andros (100 miles long by
20 to 40 miles wide) to mere rocks* The banlcs cover an area of about
43,000 square miles, of which only about 4400 are above water. They
rise very abruptly from ocean depths, varying from 500 fathoms on the
western to 2000 fathoms on the eastern side, and are indented by twa
submarine gorges from 800 to 1000 fathoms in depth. The islands ar^
formed of coral-sand sod shells, consolidated into rook by the action of
rain-water dissolving lime from the weathered upper layers, and binding
the lower with infiltrated carbonate of lime. There are three distinct
kinds of soil on the itdands— white, black, and red* The white is com-
posed of calcareous sand, with a certain proportion of organic matter, and
is suitable, when fertilisers are used, for the growth of potatoes and other
vegetables. The black soil is mainly vegetable mould, and very fertile ;
it ocours everywhere in the islands, in some places (called ^* Banana
holes,") to a considerable depth* The red earth is the most important
and fertile of all, and closely resembles that of the Bermudas in its
composition, containing a large proportion of oxide of iron. It occnrB
in larger or smaller patches in all the islands, and in Eleuthera and Cat
Island covers thousands of acres. A layer of it has been found tinder a
superincumbent stratum of the solid rock. The origin of the red earth
is not known, but it appears certain that it has not been derived from
the surrounding submarine banks, for no similar soil has been found
there or by soundings in the neighbouring dcop-sea bed. In four of the
islands there are large tracts of pine forest ; the indigenous timber on
other islands has long since been destroyed. Some of the islands of the
group, viz. Watling*e, Bum Cay, Conception, Samana, the Crooked Island
Group, Mayaguana, and Great and Little Inagna, are separated from the
bank, and spring directly from a depth of over 2000 fathoms, thus repre-
senting the flat tops of precipitous submarine mountains 125000 feet high.
Breaks in the Andean Watershed of Southern Chili.— The discovery
by Don Guillermo Cox on his journey to the source of the Li may, a
< quarter of a century ago, that the main chain of the Andes did not
in that part of Chili form the watershed between the rivers Sowing
respectively to the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, has been corroborated
by an expedition sent out by the Chilian Government to those latitudes ;
this expedition having proved that certain rivers flowing into the Pacific
Goean rise to the east of the Andes, in a plain at the comparatively low
altitude of 1650 foot above the sea^level. These rivers spring from small
lakeB» and cut their way through the Cordilleras in deep gorges. Thus
while the Limay, a tributary of the Rio Negro flowing into the Atlantic,
rises on the west of the main ridge, numerous Pacific streams rise on the
east. Another important stream, the Palona, which rises to the east of
J
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 681
the Andes and disembognes in the Gulf of Corcovado, opposite the
sonthem end of the Island of Chiloe, has been recently explored by
Captain Serrano, who ascended it in a boat as far as long. 72°. The
Palena proves to be navigable for some distance from its month, and
in its lower course is half a mile broad. These discoveries will affect
the political boundary between Chili and the Argentine Kepublic, which
had been fixed by treaty as lying along the watershed.
The Aguaray-Gudzu.* — According to Azara, the main branch of the
Eio Pilcomayo enters the Paraguay in lat. 24° 24' S. It was to verify
this statement that Captain Federico W. Fernandez and Mr. Carlos
Thompson, having chartered a small river steamer, the Sucre, started
from Asuncion on the 12th June, 1886. A few days afterwards
they discovered a broad opening into a lagoon, locally known as
Laguna Naro, and a considerable river of brackish water disemboguing
into it, which appeiured to correspond to Azara's description. Not
having a sufficient supply of fuel, they were only able to trace this
river for a distance of 27 leagues upwards, and then returned to
Asuncion. Captain Fernandez, having in the meantime secured the
support of the ' Institute Geogr^fico,' was able to return soon afterwards
to the scene of his labours. On October 1st, 1886, he once more left
Asuncion in the Sucre, having a barge in tow. He reached the bar of
the river (24° 26' S., 57° 13' W. by obs.) on the same day. Two
islands, Carolina and Placode, lie off the mouth of the river. The
depth of the northern and principal arm was found to exceed 50 feet.
Having expended a week in an examination of the mouth of the river,
the Sucre began its ascent on October 9th. The depth varied from
11 to 16 feet. After two leagues the expedition arrived at a bifurcation,
and took the channel opening to the right, which, after an ascent of
25 leagues, proved to be only a tributary, formed by two streams, the
one rising in a small pool, the other tumbling over three cataracts
10 feet in height. This Arroyo Huergo is of considerable depth, its
brackish waters are discoloured by oxide of iron, and its banks rise to a
height of 4 to 10 feet. Twenty days were expended in its exploration,
in the course of which the river fell eight feet. On again reaching its
mouth the Sucre grounded. By digging a channel through the sand
her occupants succeeded in again floating her, but the engines had
sustained some injury, and it was found necessary to send her to
Asuncion to be repaired. Thus valuable time was lost, in the course of
which the river fell 10 feet. On November 23rd the Sucre returned, and
already on the following day she started up the river, which was at
that time about 15 feet below the highest flood-marks, although its
depth still exceeded 13 feet, and its volume rolled along at the rate of
1940 metres an hour. On the third day the furthest point of the first
* * Boletin del Institnto Geogrdfico Argentino,' 1887, pp. 151-71.
2 T 2
682
GEOGRAFHICAL NOTES.
ascent wae readied. On the fourth day smoke waa seen riBing from an en-
campment of civilised Indians (tribe, Anima-ac4). On November 29th it
rained during ten iioui*s, and the river rose 7 feet, much fresh water
being ponred iDto it by its numorous tributaries. The depth continued
almost Tinifornily at 12 to 113 feet, and the Sucre was able to make a
good record up to December 24th. On that day a "raft" obstructed
all progress, and a passage had to be cleared at much labour, and on
the following day, the depth not being over 6 feet, numerous "snags"
had to ho avoided. At length, on December 26th, when 130 leagues from
the mouth, the Sucre grounded near the mouth of the Eio Argerich,
a brackish tributary coming from the north-west, and not far from
the Laguna Juarez Celman, in kt. 23^ 46' S., long. 58° 49' W. Captain
Fernandez, anxious to solve the problem of the supposed connection
of the river he waa exploring with the Pilcomayo, started on Feb-
ruary lOth with three men and a boat. After three days of difficult
navigation, and after having acoemplished six leagues, the boat too
had to be abandoned, and having attached to a timbo-tree a tin plate
hearing an appropriate inscription, the journey waa continued during
four days more on foot. The explorers only carried with them a supply
of bificuitis and Paraguayan tea. During the laat day of this difficult
journey the river trended to the south ; it grew wider and deei>er, and its
banks attained a height of 20 feet. The water was perfectly drinkable.
When 18 leagues from the steamer the explorers turned back. They
reached the Sucre by forced marches in three days and a half. On
February 19th it rained heavily and the river began to rise, but it was
nevertheless thought imprudent to delay the return any longer. The
Sucre and the barge were consequently aban(3onod, and the retreat down
the river was eflfocted in two boats, which started on February 20th and
reached the Paraguay seventeen daj's afterwards. During the whole of
this expedition not a single human being was met with. The problem
whether the Aguaray-Gudzu is a branch of the Pilcomayo has not been
solved, hut Captain Fernandez inclines to think that the statement
respecting it made by Azara will ultimately be confirmed. The water
of the river is brackish, except in its upper roaches, owing to the do-
posits of saltpetre which it drains. The lagoons, however, into which
the river discharges some of its surplus waters when in flood, are fresh,
and being imbedded amid luxuriant vegetation, present charming
pictures, worthy the " brush of a Bembrandt." The country adjoining
the river presents an undulating surface. Geologically it consists of
lieds of chalk and clay, thickly covered with vegetable mould* Pure
kaolin of a reddish hno is found in some of the ravines, and is used by
the Indians for making their pottery* The shells discovered belonged
to species still existing on the sea-coast. Dense bands of forest, some
three miles in depth, fringe the river on either sidoj and beyond these
extends an open country, covered with coarse grass, and dotted over
•
OBirUARY. 588
with graceful palms. The forests oontain much valuable timber, in-
cluding the quebracho {Aspidosperma Quebracho), both white and coloured ;
the guayacan, which here attains a large size, the lapacho, the jaca-
randd, the palobobo, and many others. Five species of palms were
observed, viz. the caranduhi (Palma copemiciana), the pindo (Cocoa
austi-alis), the carand4 (which yields a useful fibre), and a small palm
with a big trunk, bearing a golden-coloured fruit of pleasant taste.
Most of the trees bear fruit, and during the ascent of the river the trees
were so thickly covered with blossoms that they resembled walls hung
with tapestry. The animal world is represented by jaguars, tapirs,^
deer, foxes, armadillos, the carpinch6 {Hydrochaerm Capyhara), and a
variety of apes. Birds are in great number, and the river yields an
abundance of fish. An expedition could thus for months subsist upon
the produce of the chase.
Eev. T. J. Comber. — It is with deep regret that we announce the death of
this ardent xnissioiiary and successful African explorer. Mr. Comber was bom in
London in 1852. As a youth he resolved to devote himself to missionary work in
Africa, and after a short training at Regent's Park College, his services were
accepted in 1875 by the committee of the Baptist Missionary Society. Towards
the end of that year he reached the mission station of Victoria, Cameroons, which
for nearly, three years formed the centre of his activity. During that period
he ascended the Cameroons Peak (in April 1877) and explored the country to
the north of the peak, proving that it stood out an isolated mass and had no
connection with a mountain-range supposed at that time to extend far into the
interior of Africa,* When Stanley's discoveries on the Congo directed the
attention of his committee to that quarter of Africa, he and Mr. Grenfell, in June
1878, proceeded on a preliminary trip to San Salvador, with a view to the selection
of missionary sites. On that occasion the two pioneers pushed to the north-east, as
far as Timgwa, the capital of Makuta, which Lieutenant Grandy had failed toreach.t
At the close of 1878 Mr. Comber came to England for reinforcements, bat re-
turned early in the following year accompanied by his wife (who died shortly
after his arrival in Africa), and by Messrs. Bentley, Hartland, and Crudgington.
The journeys imdertaken by these missionaries in the vicinity of San Salvador
proved of considerable benefit to our geographical knowledge, and resulted in a
map, based upon astronomical observations, and forming a great improvement upon
that published some time before by Lieutenant Grandy. Repeated attempts to travel
by a direct road from San Salvador to Stanley Pool failed, on account of the opposi-
tion of the native ivory traders, who feared that their monopoly would be lost if
the country were opened to European enterprise.t He was fired at and woimded
in his attempt to traverse their district. Mr. Comber consequently proceeded to
the Pool by the ordinary route along the Congo river, and soon after his arrival,
in 1883, he laid it down on a rough map.§ In July 1884 he accompanied
« * Proceedings B.G.S.,' 1879, p. 225, with a map. t lUd., p. 284.
X Ibid., 1881, p. 20, with a map. § Ibid., 1884, p. 7U
5S4
PBOCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES.
Mr. Grenfell in a trip in the Peac^ op the Congo to BangalajOnd up the Kasai to the
moutli of the Kuango,* and then paid another short visit to England. On his return
to Africa he took up hiis quarters at Lutete. He died at sea at the closo of Jiinu, on
l)oard the German steamer Lula BdJilen^ and his body was landed at Mayumba for
buriaL In Mr. Comber the Baptist Missionary Society has lost one of its most
earnest workers, and geography an observer of very considerable ability; wbila
nmnerous friends among all claases, without difference of religion, deplore a most
genial and kind-hearted companion, Mr, Grenfell, who has only recently returned
to Englaud for much-needed reat, left Liverpool on the 24th August to fill up the
gap created in the staff of the Mission.
GiacOMO Bove|''^vhose recent death by snicide has been announced jn the papers,
was horn at Maranaano, in the Province of Acqui, Italy, in April 1852. He entered
the navy, and when still quite young accompanied 8ignor Giordone on a mission to
Borneo and Japan. In 1878-9 he accompanied Baron Nordenskiuld in bis remarkable
voyage round Northern Asia, in the Vega^ and on his return to Italy he agitated for
the despatch of an expedition into the Antarctic regions. The subscriptions proving
inadequate for that purpose, Lieutenant Bove in 1881 accepted the command of an
cxjiedition, oi^ganlaed at his solicitation by the Argentine Government, for the scien-
tific exploration of Southern Patagonia and Tierra del Fnego* The scientific members
of this expedition were Professor Lovisato (geologist), Dr. Ycnciguerra (zoologist).
Dr. Si)egazzi, and Lieutenant Roncagli. Their Rcjorts have been published in
Spanish and in Italian.! In 1885, the Italian Government charged him jointly with
Captain Frabello with a mission to the Congo, whiob he ascended as high up aa the
Stanley Falls. Lieutenant Bove, to judge from his official report, does not appear to
have been impressed very favourahly with the commercial capabihties of this "higb-
road " in Central Africa.
PROCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES.
GeograpMcal Society of BarllBt Jnlj 2nd, 1887 : Professor SAcnAu in the
chair, — Some hrief communications were read announcing tbat Lieutenant Oudenfeldt,
of Lancerote, bad completed an exploration of the Atlantic coast of the Sahara from
Santa Cruz de Mar Pequena to Cape Juby^ and had executed a toiwgraphical survey
of the region, — News from the Congo was laid before the Society as to the progress
of the Stanley Exi>edition, which had encountered great difficulties on the marcb
to Stanley Pool. The famishing people plundered the villages and carried off all
the eatables* A considerable number of sick and others perishing from hunger,
who had heen indiscreetly left behind, were lying along the track of the expedition.
The famine at Stanley Pool was due not so much to the want of rain as to the
carelesa way in which the natives had cultivated their manioc fields, provision for a
fiufEcient second growth not having been made* The expedition left Leopoldville on
the 1st of May in the following order — first the Stanley^ with the hull of the
I'lortda, a steamer chartered in Banana, belonging to the Sand ford Exploring
Expedition, and of tho same pattern as the iS/ayji*^, only a little smaller, then the
Eenry Beed^ with the hull of the En aeard and Stanley's own boat in tow, and
last of all the Peace, with a large lighter and a smaller boat belon^ng to the mission..
It had thus been poeaible for Stanley to take all his forces with him. The gre&ter
part of the goods had, however, to he left behind. A permanent camp was to be
I
*PToceediDga R.G.S^ 1885, p, 353.
t Ibid., 1883. p. 112.
PBOCESOINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES. 685
established] on the Aruwimi, where the arrival of the loads would be awaited.
Meanwhile Stanley, with a part of the expedition, would push forward at once
along the Aruwimi. Major Bartlett was in command of the rear guard. — Dr.
Schinz, who from October 1884 to December 1886 travelled over the south-west of
Africa, gave a sketch of the general features of the country traversed. In the first
instance he made an attempt to explore the region lying due east of Angra
Pequeiia and to penetrate into the Kalahari desert, but his plans failed owing to
the perfidy and hostility of the Hottentots. He therefore returned to Arudans,
where he severed his connection with the Luderitz Expedition, to which he had up
to this time belonged. He then undertook a journey at his own expense to the
north. After being plundered in Great Namaqua-Luid by well-armed Hottentots,
ho succeeded in reaching Damara-Land by way of Behoboth, and thence proceeded to
Fort Humbe, on the Gunene river. The insecurity of the country caused him to
abandon his plan of travelling farther to the north; indeed a few days later
hostilities broke out between the Portuguese garrison and the settlers, in the course
of which two French missionaries were murdered. From the Cunene River Dr.
Schinz took a south-easterly direction across tl^e ''salt pans" of Etosha to the Boer
isettlemeut of Grootfontein, which contains the greater part of those Boers who
formerly settled at Huila in Humpata, in the Portuguese province of Mossamedes.
The latter settlement is now completely abandoned, the Boers having dispersed in
all directions. The majority of those who travelled to the east and north have
succumbed to fever or to the hostility of the natives. From Upingtonia Dr.
Schinz marched to Lake Ngami, which appeared to be slowly drying up. He
eventually returned to Walfish Bay after undergoing many privations. — Professor
Ascherson made some observations upon the desert of the Egyptian Isthmus east of
the Suez Canal. The Egyptian frontier here does not run, as represented on the
best maps, from El Arish south-east in a straight line to the head of the Gulf of
Akabah, but starts from Bafah, a point on the'sea-coast between Guza and El Arlsh.
From Hafah a belt of Egyptian territory along the coast, some miles in breadth, ex-
tends^as far as the Wadi el Ansh, which has been hitherto supposed, but incorrectly,
to form the political boundary between Syria and Egypt. The Turkish territory
goes considerably beyond this ''brook of Egypt" of the Bible, and stretches in the
shape of a wedge up to the meridian of the oasis of Katieh, thus forming the divide
between the abodes of two Arab stocks, the Egyptian Ssauarkah and the Turkish
Tarabin. As regards geology, it is.to be noted that the coast region between the Suez
Canal and El Arish consists of a broad zone of dunes, in the valleys of which are found
extensive " salt pans." These are the result of the evaporation of pools of water formed
by the winter rains, and are surroimded by their own peculiar vegetation,viz. tamariak,
artiplex, &c. The rocky formation begms with the steep slope (2300 to 3300 feet)
of the plateau of the Sinai peninsula, which at El Arish is about a day's march from
the coast, and which beyond the Bir el Abd bounds the southern horizon of the
traveller approaching it along the caravan route. In the west this range goes by the
name of Djebel Megh&rah, and in the east Djebel Haltal. The district is by no
means destitute of vegetation. From an elevation the country appears green almost
everywhere, not only the lowest parts of the valleys, but the slopes of the dunes,
especially those lying to the north. The plants visible from a distance are princi-
pally of woody growth ; particularly a variety of Artemisium with a sweet aroma,
and also species of Calligonum and Retaniun ; the. last mentioned, however, is found
exclusively in the eastern part of the district Speaking generally, this region is
surprisingly rich in botanical species. Economically the country may be said to
gravitate towards Syria rather than towards Egypt The centre of population in
the sparsely peopled western district is the oasis of Eatieh« The gioves of date
58G
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL FUBUCATIONS.
IJalms beloDg to four Arab tribes, wbicli during tbe g^reater portion of the year
wander in nomad fasbion ov^er Syria^ TeturniDg to the oasb only for tlie date
barvest. Agricnlttire is but very little practised. In tbe valley of tlio Wadi el
Arisli, however, wheat and barley are cultivated with succesa io wioter, and maize
(which is here called '*durrah **) from April to Jime. Water melons coiit in the
height of summer only sixpence per camel load. The construction of tbe canal has
to a large extent diminished tbo trade along the caravan route, nearly all goods being
now carried by sea from Jaffa, Tbe representation of the caravan route on Jaootin's
map k nearly accurate, but in the case of Lake Serbonia, theton^a of land which itt
shown as dividing tbe lake in the middle at El Gcb, has no existence, as Greville
Chester showed in 1880. The south coast of the lake» which is now again dry, is
almost completely unknown, Tbe position of El Arisb was determined last year by
M. Floyer, chief inspector of Egyptian telegraphs, as 31° 10' 20" lat and 33° 48' 30"
long, (east of Greenwich), Tbe telegraph lines laid a few years ago, and the country
in their vicinity along tbe caravan route from El Kantarab to Kafab, as well as part
of tbe line to Constantinople, have been topographically surveyed by Albino Paoletti,
whose map will shortly be published.
NEW GEOGKAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
(By J. S€OTT Eeitib, Librarian B.a.s.J
EUBOPE.
Baddeley, M- J. B.^Thorough Guide Series. Scotland (Part I.), Edinburgh,
Glasgow, and the Higblauds as far north as Aberdeen, iDvemefis, Gairloch, and
Storaoway, with a full description of the various Approaches and Chief Places of
Interest in the Lowlands. Thirty-seven maps and plana by J, Bartholomew,
r,ii,o.e. 5th edition. LonJoDp Dulau & Co., 1887: 12mo,, pp. xiiiv. and
1297. Price 7$. [Presented by Messrs. Dulau & Co.]
Botella, Pederico de. — EspaHa, Geografia Morfolugica y Etiologica. Observa-
cionea accica do Ja Conatitucion Orogralica de la Peninsula y Leyea de Dlreccidn,
do sua Sierras, Cordilleras^ Costati y Kios priucijiales. Madrid| Imprenta de
Fortanet, 1886 : large 8vo, pp. viii. and 129, maps.
[France.}— ^liiiiat^rs de I'lnti^rienr. Dcnombrement de la population* 1886.
Paris, Imp. Nationale, 1887 : 8vo-, pp. 870. [rresented by the French Minister
of tbe Interior.]
ABIA.
Amat, Pietro. — Delle Relazioni Antiche e Modemo fra 1* Italia e F India. Memoria
premlata dalla Reale Accademia dei Lincei. lloma, Stahilimcnto Tipografico dell*
OpinioTie, 1886: 8vo., pp. x. and 158, map. [Presented by the Author.]
AtkinsoD, Edwin S. — The Himilayan District of the Nortb-weatem Provinces of
lodia. Yol. iii- (Formiog vol. xii. of the Gazetteer, N.-W.P.) AllababaJ, 1886 :
imp. 8vo., pp. (iii,), iv., and 721. [Presented by the Secretary of State for India
in CouuciJ.]
The present volume concludes the historical, geographical, and statistical
account of tbe Himalayan districts of tbe North-west rroviDcea, in accordanco
with the ofBcial inatruotiona given in the preface to tbe second volume of tlitj
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUCATIONS. 587
Gazetteer. These iiistnictions have been meet faithfully carried out, and the
resalt is a mine of information on the districts treated of the highest value.
The present volume gives the topographical, statistical, and other IcMsal informa-
tion for each fiscal subdivision and important tract, town, or place in the
Kumaon, Grarwhil, Tarai, Dehra Dun, and Jauns&r-B&war districts. There are
five large maps and three photographs.
AzJmar, H.— Dictiomuure Stieng; Recueil de 2500 mots. Saigon, Imprimerie
CJoloniale, 1887 : 8vo., pp. vii. and 184.
P^re Az^mar prefixes to his valuable vocabulary of the Stieng people, who
inhabit Camboda, an exceedingly interesting account of the people themselves,
of the country, its fauna and flora, the history of the people, and their manners
and customs.
Barth^lemy-St. Hilaire, X — L'Inde Anglaise, son dtat actuel— son avenir,
prdc^^ d'one Introduction sur FAngleterre et la Russe. Paris, Perrin et Gie.,
1887 : 8vo., pp. 484. Price 6s. 6df.
This work is valuable as riving the views of an intelligent and observant
Frenchman on the situation in India.
China. No. 2 (1887). Despatch from Her Majesty^ Minister at Peking, forward-
ing a Report by Mr. H. £. Fulford, Student Interpreter in the China Consular
Service, of a Journey in Manchuria. Presented to both Houses of Parliament by
command of Her Majesty. June 1887. London, Harrison & Sons: folio,
pp. 18, map. Price 6J(f.
This journey has already been described in the ' Proceedings.' See Noe. for
December 1886, pp. 779-80, and April 1887, pp. 236-9.
[Hedges, William.}— The Diary of William Hedges, Esq. (afterwards Sir William
Pledges), during his Agency in Bengal ; as well as on his Voyage out and Return
overland (1681-1687). Transcribed for the press, with Introductory Notes, &c.,
by R. Barlow, Esq., and illustrated by copious Extracts from Unpublished
Records, .&C., by Colonel Henry Yule, B.E., c.b., ll.d. Vol. I. The Diary,
with Index. [Hakluyt Society Publication, No. LXXIV.] London, printed for
the Hakluyt Society, 1887 : 8vo., pp. xii. and 265. [Presented by the Hakluyt
Society.]
Ifaamann, [Dr* K]. — Die Japanische Inselwelt. Eine geographisch-geologische
Skizze. [Separat-Abdruck aus den Mittheilungen der Kais. KOnigl. Geograph-
ischen Gesellschaft in Wien, Jahrg. 1887.] Wien, E. Holzel, 1887: 870.,
pp. 21, 2 maps. [Presented by the Author.]
Satow, E. K. [C.K.G.] — Essay towards a Bibliography of Siam. Singapore,
Government Printing Office, 1886 : 8vo., pp. lOa [Presented by the Author.]
Mr. Satow has rendered excellent service by compiling this bibliography,
which must have been the result of much research. It is divided into four
parts :— 1. Separate works relating to Siam ; 2. Periodicals and Proceedings of
Learned Societies ; 3. Language; 4. Maps.
AFRICA.
Baraban, Leopold. — A travers la Tunisie. Etudes sur les Oasis, les Dunes, les
ForSts, la Flore et la Gdologie. Paris, Rothschild, 1887 : 8vo., pp. viii. and 227.
Price 12s.
M. Baraban is Inspector of Forests, and was entrusted by the French
Minister of Agriculture with a mission to Tunis. The result is a work on
Tunis of considerable scientific value. M. Baraban sailed from Tunis to Gabes,
and made a very careful examination of the Great Chott that lies westward
588
NEW GEOGBAPHICAL PtJBLICATIONS.
from the Gulf of Gabe?, ProceediDg across the Hammema to Gafsa, be
tiBTerfied that hilly region eastwards to Malards on the coast, and thence went
on to Sfax and Cheba. Striking inland to Kairwan, he spent some time at the
holy city, and then went north wards to Tunis, Subsequently he made an
excursion into the country of tho Kronmirs, on the Algerian border. The
physical geography, the geology, and the flora of the region visited by M. Baraban
he discusses very fully. The invasion of the country by sand in the Gal)es
region and the causes of the disintegration of the rocks here recelTc special
attention j as well as the means of preventing snch disasters. M, Baraban also
discuaees Roudaire*a project of a great interior sea, but does not seem at all
favourable to it, mainly from the ecooomical standpoint ; he thinks good rail-
wars would be much more useful The book has many interesting illustrations,
and a fairly good map.
Tlieal, 0eorge McCaU.^History of the Bocra in South Africa. London,
Sonnenschein & Co., 1887 : 8vo,, pp. xxiw and 392. Price IBs. [Presented by
the Pabliaher.]
No one is better qualified than Mr. Theal to write a hiatoiy of the Boers in
Soutli Africa, a history which covers so wide an area and has to deal so largely
with certain geographical developments of much interest. His * Compendium
of Soutli African History^ is the leading authority on the subject. Presumably
he has had ample opportunities of visitiug all j>arta of the Soutli African terri-
tories, and has seen much of the Boers at various stages. He has, moreover,
had access to special sources of information which came in his way officially,
and the result is this volume, w^hich may be taken as now the standard autho-
rity on a subject of great interest. The copious bibliographies are of special
value.
Wakefield, [KevJ M.^Vocabulajry of the Eivir^ndo Language. London, Society
for Promoting Christian Knowledge, 1887 : 12mo,, pp. 7. [Presented by R. N.
Cust, Esq.]
Wolf, Ludwig.— ^ul^sstamme Central Afrika's. [Berlin, 1686] : 8vo.
This is a copy of a paper read before the Berlin Anthropological Society, on
the 18th December, 1886.
AMEBICA.
[America.] — Narrative and Critical History of America, Edited by Justin Winsor.
VoL V. London, Sampson Low & Co., 1887 : imp, Svo,, pp, vii, and 649.
The present volume deals with the English aod French in North America,
1669-1763. Chapter i. is devoted to Canada and Louisiana^ by Mr, A.
McFarland Davis. There are the usual critical essay and editc^rial notes, with
a paper on the cartography of Louisiana and the Mississippi Basin under the
French dominatioo, by the editor. In chapter ii. New England, 1689-1763, is
dealt with by Mr. Wiosor. Chapter iii. deals with the Middle Colonies, by Mr.
Berthold Femow, who adds a critical essay on manuscript sources, the carto-
graphy being treated by him jointly with the editor. Mr. Winsor also under-
takes Maryland and Virginia in chapter iv,, while Prof. W. J. Riv'ers treats of
the Caroliuas In cliapter v., Mr. Winsor furnishing the critical note and essay
on the later histories of Carolina. The Eoglish colonisation of Georgia is dealt
with in chapter vi. by Dr. Cb, C Jones, and the wars of the seaboard ; Acadia
and Cape Breton by Mr. Charles C. Smith ; Mr. Winsor adding a dissertation
of fifty pages on authorities on the French and Indian wars of New England
and Canada, and other ten j^mges on majjs and records of Acadia. The last
chapter is by the editor, and treats of the struggje for the great valleys of North.
America. There Is the usual wealth of illustrations and maps.
[America, tfnited States*]— [Tentli Census of the United States, ISSO.] VoL
:cii. Iteport on the Mortality aod Vital Statistics of the United States as
returned at the Tentli Census (June 1, 1880), by John S, Billings, Surgeon
J
NKW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUCATIOKS. 589
U.S. Army. Part IL Washington, Government Printing Office, 1886: 4to.
pp. clviii. and 803, maps. [Plates and Diagrams aooompanying the ahove, in
separate case.]
Annual Report of the Board of Brents of the Smithsonian Institution, showing
the Operations, Expenditures, and Condition of the Institution to July 1885.
Part I. Washington, Government Printing Office, 1886: 8vo., pp. xviii. and
996, illustrations. [Presented by the Smithsonian Institution.]
This Report opens with the Proceedings of the Board of Regents of the
Smithsonian Institution for the session of January 1885 ; the Report of the
Executive Committee for the first six months of 1885 ; and the Annual Report
of the Secretary. The General Appendix, occupying more than one-half of
the volume, contains: — I. Record of Scientific Progress, 1884, divided as
follows — ^Introduction, by Snencer F. Baird ; Astronomy, by WilUam C. Win-
lock ; List of Astronomical Observatories, by George H. Boehmer ; Vulcanology
and Seismology, by Charles G. Rockwood ; Volcanic eruptions and earthquakes
in Iceland within historic times ; Geography, by J. King Ck)odrich ; Physics,
by George F. Barker ; Chemistry, by H. Carrington Bolton ; Mineralogy, by
Edward S. Dana ; Bibliography of Invertebrate Palaeontology, by J. B. Maroou ;
Zoology, by Theodore Gill ; and Anthropology, by Otis T. Mason.— II. Mis-
cellaneous papers, including papers relating to Anthropology ; Obsenrations on
Stone-chipping, by George £. Sellers ; Copper implements from Bayfield, Wis.,
by Charles Whittlesey; Ancient Remains in Ohio, by J. P. MacL^; A
primitive store-house of the Creek Indians, by Charles C. Jones, jr. ; Shell
neaps and mounds in Florida, by James Sbepard : Ancient earthworks in China,
by Mark Williams ; Plan for American Ethnological Investigation, by the late
Henry R. Schoolcraft ; Index to the Literature of Uranium, by H. Carrington
Bolton ; and Pric&-list of the Publications of the Smithsonian Institution.
Heilprin, Angelo. — Explorations on the West Coast of Florida and in the
Okeechobee Wilderness. A Narrative of Researches undertaken under the
auspices of the Wagner Free Institute of Philadelphia. Imp. 8vo., pp. vi. and
134. [Presented by the Wagner Free Institute.]
Professor Heilprin informs us that the State of Florida remains to the
present day, as far as its geographical, zoological, and geological features are
concerned, very nearly the least-known portion of the United States. The
explorations described in the volume are therefore a really original contribution
to science. The book is largelv geological, but there is also necessarily a good
deal of geography in it. The whole of Florida, Professor Heilprin finds, belongs
exclusively to the tertiary and post-tertiary periods of geological time, and con-
sequently, as a defined geographical area, represents the youngest portion of
the United States. There is no particle of evidence, he assures us, to sustain
the coral theory of the growth of the peninsula ; on the contrary, all the facts
point conclusively against such theory, and indicate that the progressive growth
of the pcDinsula, at least as far as I^ke Okeechobee, has been brought about
by successive accessions of organic and inorganic material in the normal method
of sedimentation and upheaval. The Florida coral tract is evidently limited
to a border region of the south and south-west Professor Heilprin concludes by
stating that man's great antiquity in the peninsula is established beyond a
doubt, and not improbably the fossilised remains found in Sarasota Bay, now
wholly converted into limonite, represent the most ancient belongings of man
that have ever been discovered.
AUSTBALASIA.
[QneenslaildO 1886. Queensland. Report on the'Argentine (Star) Silver Mines,
Kennedy District. By Robert L. Jack, Government Geologist, [Brisbane, James
C. Beal, Government Printer] : folio, pp. 9, map and section. Price It. [Presented
by the Author.]
£90
KEW GEOGRAPEICAL PUBUCATIONS,
6EKEHAL.
Catftlogne of Printed Books in the Library of the Foreigii Office. 31st December,
1B85. London, Harrison & Sons, 1880 ; imp. 8vo., pp, islv. and 1220, [Presented
by Sir Julian Fauooefote, g.c.m.o.]
[Colonial and Indian Exhibition, 188 8*] — "Report of the Royal CoinmissioD
for the Colonial and Indian Exhibition, London^ 1886» to the Kif^ht Hon. Henry
Matthews, m.p., &c., one of Her Majesty's Principal Secretaries of StAte. London,
W, Clowes & Sons, 18B7 : 8vo.j pp. IxatiiL and 373» plan and pkte.
Edgley, J. CJ—I'Iao Origin and Featnres of Mountaio Systems, With remarks
00 the ancient Glaciers of Wales. [London], J* C, Edgley, [1887] t Bvo., pp. 8,
plate. [Presented by the Author.]
Oliphanti LaM'tace.— Episodes in a Life of Adventure ; or, iloss from a Rolling
Stone. Edinburgh, Blackwood, 18B7; 8to., pp. vL and 420. Price 10$, Qd.
[Presented by the Fubliaber.]
Mr Oliphant has rolled pretty well all over the world, and whether or not
his gatherings are of a mosay character, they are welcome io this shape. He
has seen many men and many great cities, and tells ns alK>ut them in his ever
attractive style. Even from tbe purely geof^raphical point of view his volume
is useful; it shows the actual coodition of things in the places visited by Mr*
Oliphant during the last forty-five years or so. There is, for example, a chapter
on the overland route ferty-six years ago ; another on politics and Indian affaire
in Canada ; a chapter on Crimean and Circassian expriencea ; and another on
adventures in Central America, Other chapters deal with experiences in Japan,
in India, iu Italy, in Cracow and Warsaw, Volhynia, Moldavia, and SchleswJg-
Hoi stein.
[Pjrard, [of Laval] Franjois*] — The Voyage of Fraofois Pyrard of Laval to the
Kast Indies, the Maldives, the Moluccas and Brazil. Translated into English
from the third French edition of 1619, and edited, with notes, by Albert Gray^
formerly of the Ceylon Civil Service, assisted by H. C. P. Bell, of the Ceylon
Civil Service. In two volumes. Vol. 1. [Hakluyt Society Publication,
No. LXXVL] London, printed for the Hakluyt Society, 1887 : 8vo., pp. Iviii.
and 452, map, plan, and illustrations, [Presented by the Hakluyt Society,]
rWard, Thomas Humphry.] — The Eeignof Queen Victoria: a Survey of Fifiy
Years of Progress, Edited by Thomas Humphry Ward, m.a* In two volumcit.
London, Smith, Elder & Co., 1887 : 8va, pp, (vol. i.) 594, (vol. ii*) 620, maps,
&c. Price 32j.
In these volumes we have a record of the progress of the British Empire
during the last fifty years* Vol. i. contains articles on the following subjects: —
Legislation of the Reign, and Foreign Policy, by the Editor ; Constitutional
Development, by Sir William B. Anson, Bart*; The Army, by General
Viscount Wokdey, g.cd. ; Note on the Ordnance Survey, by Colonel Sir
C. W, Wilson, K.C.B., Director-General of the Survey ; The Navy, by Lord
Brassey ; The Administration of the Law, by Lord Justice Boweu ; Finance,
by Leonard H. Courtney, m.p. ; Religion and the Churches, by Rev. Edwin
Hatch, D,D. ; Colonial Policy and Progress, by the Editor; India, by Sir
Henry Sumner Maine, K,c.fl,i. ; and Ireland, by Sir Rowland Blennerhassett,
Bart.^ — Vol, ii. contains articles on The Growth and Distribution of Wealth,
by Robert Giflen; Industrial Association, by Right Hon. A, J, Mundella,
M.F,, and G. Howell, M,r. ; Locomotion and Transport, by tbe Editor ;
Agriculture, by Sir James Caird, k.c/b. ; The Cotton Trade and Industry,
by John Slagg, m,p*; The Iron Trade and its Allied Industries, by Sir
Lowthian Bell, Bart. ; Schools, by Matthew Arnold ; The Universities, by
C. A, Fyffe ; Science, by Prof, Huxley, f.k.s, ; Medicine and Surgery, by
NEW MAPS. 691
Robert Bnidenell Carter, f.b.c.8.; Literature, by Richard Gamett, ll.d. ;
Art, by the Editor; The Drama, by William Archer; and Music, by
Walter Tarratt. •* The maps show the percentage of increase and decrease in
the population of the diflerent counties of England, Wales, Scotland, and
Ireland, and of the different districts of London, between 1831 and 1881,
the year of the latest Census return."
NEW MAPS.
(By J. CoLBS, JMap Curator R.aA)
EUBOPE.
Deutsohen Belches*— Karte des — — , heraosgegeben von der kartogr. Ab-
theilung der Konigl. Preuss. Landes-Anfnahme 1887. Scale 1 : 100,000 or 1*3
geographical miles to an inch. Sheets: 42, Sagard; 616, Schlettstadt Price
Is. 6d. each. (Dulau.)
Europe. — Les Monuments de la Geographic, des Bibliothdques de Belgique. Carte
de TEurope, 1480-1485. 4 cartes en 8 feuilles. Texte explicatif par Ch. Ruelens.
Bruxelles, Institut National de G^i^raphie. Price 17«.
This is a fac-simile of the copy of Ptolemy's maps in the Royal Library of
Brussels, and forms one of a series of maps in course of publication by the
Institut National de Gdographie de Bruxelles. Tho letterpress which accom-
panies the map is extremely interesting ; in it Mr. C. Buelens gives the history
of all the existing copies of this map, aod the conclusions he arrives at after
comparing the Brussels copy with them. The fac-simile copy is a chromo-
lithograph, and the manner in which it has been produced reflects credit on all
concerned.
France.— Carte g^ologique d^taill^ de la — , au 80,000 or I'l geographical
miles to an inch. Feuille 248, Toulon et tour de Camarat. Paris. {Dulau,)
. Carte de , dress^ par le Service Vicinal par ordre de M. le Ministre de
rint^rieur. Scale 1 : 100,000 or 1 '3 geographical miles to an inch. Paris, 1887.
Sheets: IL— 15, He d'Ouessant; VL— 14, Saint Brieuc; XIL— 15, Alen^on;
XllL— 18, Chateau-du-Loir ; XIII.— 20, Sainte Maure. Price Id. each sheet.
{Dulau,)
Harz. — Neueste Karte vom — . — , von C. Diercke und Ed. Gaebler. Scale 1 ; 200,000
or 2*7 geographical miles to an inch. Hannover, C. Meyer. Price 3ff. (fiidau.)
London. —Mason & Payne's Popular Map of . Scale 580 yards to an inch.
With Guide. London, Mason & Payne, 1887. Price Is.
This is a very clearly drawn map of London, accompanied by seventy-eight
pages of letterpress, which forms a compact and useful guide.
Oesterreichsch-XTngarisolien Monarohie.— Specialkarte der Scale
1 : 75,000 or 1 geographical mile to an inch. E.k. milit&r-geografisches Institut,
Wien, 1887. Sheete : Zone 12, Col. XXIL Rimaszombat; 14-XXIX. Hoss-
zumezo und Avas-FelsOfalu ; 15-XXVII. Nacy-Kdroly und Xkos; 15-XXIX.
Nagy Bdnya ; 16-XXV. Hajdu-Szoboszl6 und Esztdr ; 16-XXVIL Tasnid und
Sz^plak ; 17-XXIV. N. Bajom und Szeghalom ; 17-XXVIL Sadldgy-Somly6
und :^lesd; Mezo KovdcshiLza u. Enrtics; 29-XII. Zara; 31-Xy. Sinj und
Spalato; 33-XyiII. Zalom und Stolac; 83-XIX. Gacko und Orakoyica. Price
Is. id, each sheet. (Jhdau,)
892
NEW MAPS.
Prag. — Plan von tind Umgebung, voa A, Hiirlig. Scale 1; 10,000 or T"3
iuclies to ft geograpkical mile. Price It. Od. (Dtdau,)
Sacli»eE. — ScliTilwandkarte vom KGnigreicli *, von K. Bamlierg. Scale
1:175,000 or 2 '3 geograplucal miles to an inch, 8 ebects, Berlin, Chun
Price Os, {Didaiu)
Salzburger-AlpeE.— Karte der , ucd der Sal^kamraerguts von Ludwig
KaYenatein. Bearbeitct unter Hitwirknng der Deutachen und Oesterreichischen
Alpenvereins. Scale 1 : 2GO>000 or3 '4 geographical miles to an ioch^ Fronkfiirt-
am-Main, Ravenstein, Price 5s, (DulauJ)
"Ungam, — Orts- nnd Strassen-Karte der Konigreich , nebst Kroatien und
Slavonien, von A. Steinbatiser. Scale 1:1,29{3,000 or 17*7 geographical miles
to an inch. Wien, Artaria & Co. Price 4f. (Dulau,)
ORDNANCE BUKVEY aiAPS.
PubllcatScns luned dndng tbe monlfa of July IBat,
l-lncll— 0«ieral Maps ;—
EifroLun> itKD Wales : N«w S«rlM. Koft. 100 (ontllDe), 33^5 Coutl^°c)> ^^^ (liUU), If. e«di.
SooTWXo; 19 (hmi). 130 (cmtllae). It. 9d. o*cb.
Imuutp: 133^ 142 (hLllA), If, e4ch.
England akd Wales: Bedf ordahlre : 30 N.E., 6.W.; If. po^h. Br«ckii<)€kBliir6 : 22 8.1L*
33 N.E., 34 N.W. i u. tacli. OambHdg'eshijre l (a S.E, and 6 N.E. vn one sh^l), 30 S.E„ S.W„
33 N,W*. :w NVK., K.E.; 1». eiwh, CardigftiiBMre: 2 N W.. K.E.. S.K., 3 N.W,, N.E., S.E.,
e S.E., 11 N.W.; ii, cjicb. Carmanbeoihire : 40 S.E,; It* Cornwall: 36 N,W.i it.
Derbsrshlre: 47 S\VM48 ij.W,. s.E.; i*. each, Devonshire: la N.E (Ua S,E, mA
iaS,W.,on one sheet) ; If. each. DorsetBllire : 6 8.K,, 17 X.W., 24 N.W., 33 N.E,, S.W.; It
each, Glouoeatenhire : ns.W., 77 6AV.* u. each. HuntinffdonsMre: 2^ NAV., 26
N.K, S.R; If. e*cb. Leicestershire: 3 S.E., t KE., a N.W.j it. inch. Llncoliiahip* ;
J3 8.E., 38 N.W., 46 N.W., S,W., 112 aE.» 121 N.E., 122 N.W.* 142 N^K., '143 N.E, i^.W., at. HT
N.W., 14S N.W., N.E., S,W,, S.E. 1*9 aw., 161 N.W.^ u. ouch. Merionethshire: 83 8,W.,
47 NX, SAV., S.E,-ig N.W.; 1>. each. MontR-ojueryBhlre : 35 N.E., S.W'., S.E.. 3a N.W.,
H.E,, S.E ; u. each. Norfolk : B'J S W,. e* KE., 74 aC 75 s;E.. hg N'.W, ; i*. a^h. Netting-
hamahiret 44S.E, ; l*, Oifordshlre: fi| 2«. ed. Shropshire: 47 N,E„ coatoun^;
1*. SomeraetBhire ^ se S.E. 4« s,lv. 60 RE.. 8o N.W.. N.E.^ m S,E, ; if. Mch, Stafford-
shire : 4 N.E., a s.E.^ 2& S.E., an s,w. Suffolk : n J^.E., 4?^ S,E., 60 S.E., 67 SR, e^ S.E., go
ii.E., 82 S.W. ; If. efflck. Warwickahire : ifi N.W., S.W.J If. edcb. Wiltahire ; Ts; if.
S6-illch-^F«rl&b llap« ;—
EtiGLAKp AKo Wales; Brecknockflhlre : XXXVIL 12, 16, 3f, eacli* Oaoihrid^eahire:
XXXV^ 1. 5, G, 3*. eaebi XXXV. 12, XL. 6» 4«. cack; LIIL 10. 13. 14, 18, LVIE 3, Us. cftrb. Car-
diganshire: VJIt. b, XII. 6. 3f. cacb. Carmarthenalilre i XXVI. 6, 3f.; XXVJ. T, 4f.;
XX\ J. «, 10, It, 31. wdi; XXVI. 12, Bi.; XX VE 13. 14, 3f. e^h ; XXVE 16, 4f.; XXX l%^ 6. 3i.
Devonahlre; XJX. ii, 12, a^.e^ch ; XIX. 11, 4r ; XLX. is, 10, a^.cAcb ; XXX. 1, 2, 6, g, 14, XCTX.
14, CXUE 11, 16» CXIV. «. CXVJIL T, 16, €XIX. 2. 3#. eacb ; CXX V. 4, 7, U. 4i. eAch, Borset-
shire: 1. 10, 4f.; HE 14, VI. 5, 6, 7, 3f, each; VL h, 4f,; VIE 3, &, 3<. e^cb ; VU. 6, 41,
Oloueeetershire : XX VL 10, 4e. Area Book : Cbeltenbam, 11. Herefordahire : X J 1 . U, 4f . ;
XIV. le, XV (LE 14, XXL 12, XXIV. 11, IB, Ifl, XXV. 1, 7. \% 3«, each; XXV J. U 4f,j XXVI. 2.3,
4, 8, Sf, fatb; XX VL 11, 4*.; XX VL 16, XXVHL 8, 11, XXXII. 2, XXX II. B, 3f. t tcb 1 XXXIL e,
4f.; XXXIL B, XXXllI. I, 4. 7. 3f. ^fiicb; XXXIV. 1, 4f . ; XXXtV. l&. XXXV. 3, 12, 13, 14» Ift, 3f.
fnch. Hun tin jBpdon shire: XX, 6 and 7 (on one), XX. 10 anil 11 (on ocie}, 3f. each; XX. 16«
4f. i XXIV* 4, 3f. Lincolnshire r VL 1 1, 4f. ; X!L 12, 13, 14, I6, 16, XX. 3. 4, 5, 3f. each ; XX. 6,
4f.; XX. 7, », XXXVll. '2, 4, &. 13, le, 3f. «ftcb ; XLV. 11, 4f, ; XLV> IG. LXIIL 2, 3. 4, 6. ©. 7. 10,
11, 12, 13, 14, 1&, Ifi, LXXL 1,3, 3f.eacl:i; LXXI. 6, 4f.; L.\X].B,3f.; LXXLe,4f,; LXXL 11, 3f.;
LXXl. 12, 4r; LXXL 13, 14, IS, ifl. CL, 4, 3*. mch. Ilontffomeryshirei XVL a, XXVI.
10, 14, 16, XXXIII. 9, Sf.^wrb. Norfolk: 11,11,12,13, 3*. eatb; IE 15, 4t.; IE 16. V.4,3i.eAch;
V. B, 4J. ; IX, 1, 2, XXXIL 4, LVL «, LXIX. 2, 3f. CAcb ; LXXVIII. 3 «id 4 (om one), aof. ^cL^, CIV.
13, 4f. Northamptonshire: II L 12, 41. AreA Books: AblDglon, Dollbif^D, Duiton, Kings'
tborpo, Muultoo Lark, Friary St. Aadrftw (yortbAnaploo). tit. (ilks (Nortbampton), SL Peu?r
(Nortbampioii), SkSepnlcbre, Weatoii Fftvei; If. each, Butland : X, 4, 3f. Somersetahire :
IX. 11, 3f.; LXVL 10, LXXIll. 3, LXXV. Ifi, EXXXIE 1, 2, 3f. eacb ; LXXXIL S, &i. ; LXXXlL 8.
12, 1«. LXXXIV. a, 3. 6, 0, 7, 3f. each J LXXXIV. H, 4f.; LXXXV. 2. 6, 3*. j LXXXV, 6, 4*.;
LXXXIX. 3, 4, 3f. each; LXXXIX. fl, 4i. Suffolk : H, 3, 20f. 6d.; XV. 13, XXX, 12, 4f. each i
EXX M, 3f. ; LXXIX. 3« 5f, Area Booka: CbaUlibacn, Delbam, OktUMford. (Jreat Wenhani, Long;
Melford ; 1*, each. Warwickshire : XXiLL 2, 0. XXXl. K 10, 14, 16, iv, XX XL is, XXXIV. 9,
13, I*, XXXVll. 1, 2, 3f. each; XXX VIE S, 4f.j XXX VIE 11, 3t. ^ XXXVIL 13, H, XLIV. 4, L* 12,
4f. eacb; LIIL 7, U^f. AreaBcxik: Ipsky. U. Wiltahlre : XXVIII. ILXXXIL l,3i.; XXXVUL
1, I3w4«. ; LIE 1, 10, LIIL 14. EVIL 2, 3. 4, 8, 12, 31. eacb, Worcesterskire : XXIV. 10, 16, 3a.
each j XEIV* 12, 4f. ; LL 7, 3f.
Town Plaais— lo-feet Bcal« t-^
SaOLairD akp Walks; Leiccaler, XXXJ. 10, 13, 14, 16. 16, 17, 13, ^ 25. 2f. eacb.
4, S. B, 10, IS. la, 24, 26. '
(JStanfordj Agent.}
Wisfeed), yn. 3,
NEW MAPS. 693
ASIA.
Transkaspisclieii Gebiete nnd von Nord-Chorassan. — Karte der
Hauptsiichlich nach General J. Stebnitzki's Karte von Transkaspien (1885), mit
Nachtr&gen und den Routen der Forsbhungs-Expeditionen unter Dr. G. Radde,
Dr. Walter nnd J. M. Konschin, 1881 bis 1886. Scale 1 : 2,000,000 or 27 geo-
graphical miles to an inch. Petermann's * Geographiache Mitteilungen,' Jahrgang
1887, Tafel 12. Gotha: Justus Perthes. (DuZau.)
AFRICA.
jj^frjj^ — Neue Karte von, nebst Madagaskar, Arabien, Persien, Afghanistan,
Belutschistan, Syrien und Klein Asien, mit Anschluss an Europa. Scale
1:7,500,000 or 102*7 geographical miles to an inch. Stuttgart, J. Maier.
Price 8«. (Dulau,)
Alg^rie.— Carte topographique de V an 50,000« or 1 '4 inches to a geographical
mile. Sheets: 4, Herbillon; 9, Azeffoun; 14, Philippeville; 19, La Calle;
33, Penthi^vre ; 43, Palestro: 64, Tablat; 65, Ben Haroun; 87, Oued-el-Malah ;
88, ATne Bessem; 128, Mostaganem; 182, Sfldnt-Denis dn Sig. Paris, Minist^re
de la Guerre. (Dtdau,)
Mailica.--Carta do Districto de e dos territorios drcumvizinhos, 1887. Scale
1 : 2,000,000 or 27 geographical miles to an inch* CommissSo de Cartographia.
Coordenada por A. A, d'Oliveira. (Dulau,)
Santo Antao.— Carta da Ilha de (Cabo Verde), 1887. Scale 1:100,000 or 1*3
geographical miles to an inch. CommissSo de Cartographia. Coordenada por
Ernesto de Yasconcellos.
AMERICA.
Argentina. — ^Mapa general de la Hepublica , j parte de las naciones circnn-
vecinas, formado en visita de observaciones astronomicas^ cartes, exploraciones de
autores de cr^ito j obras publicadas hasta principio de este afio de 1887. Bajo
la direccion del D. D. Marino Felipe Paz Soldan, dibujado por Iob ingenieros
geografos Carlos Beyer, Pederico Block. Scale 1: 300,000 or 41*6 geographical
miles to an inch. Paris. {Dulau.)
Nord Amerika* — Oflficielle Eisenbahnkarte der Vereinigten Staaten von ,
Canada und Mexico. Herausgegeben von Rand, McNally St Co. Leipzig, G.
Weigel. Price 3». (Dtilau,)
North America. — General Map of ^ constructed from the best authorities,
and embodying the results of all explorations to the present time. By W. and A.
K. Johnston, Edinburgh and London, 1887. Scale 1 : 7,160,000 or 98 geo-
graphical miles to an inch. Price, moxmted on cloth on mahogany rollers,
varnished, 1^. Is. ; on spiral spring roller, with mahogany case, 61, Ss,
This is a very good general map of North and Central America on which
all the railways appear to have been carefully laid down, and although the
scale on which it is drawn is small, it is sufficiently large for the purpose of
general reference. The physical features are clearly shown, and care has been
taken not to overcrowd it with names.
AI78TBALIA.
Queensland. — Geographical Map of , by Bobert L. Jack, Government G^lo-
gist. Issued under the authority of the Department of Public Works and Mines,
1886. Scale 1 : 200,000 or 27 geographical miles to an inch.
594
HEW MAPS.
CHARTS.
ITluted States Charts* — No, 1031,, Potrero and Brazilito Bojs, West Coast of
CoBta Rica. Price Is. ^d, — No. 1044, Soledad Bay and Santo Tomaa Anchorage,
AVeat Coaat of Ijower Cftlifomia. Price 1». Id, Published at the Hydrographic
OfEce, Navy Bepajtiuent, Waahington, D.C. J. R. Bartlett, ComnMnder U,S,N^
Hydrographer to the Bureau of Navigation,
ATLABEa ^1
Andree, Richard. ^ — Supplement zur ereten Auflage von Richard Andrces Hand-
atlas enthaltend die 33 Seiten aeuer Karten der zweitea Aufiage von 1887* Apart
fur die Besitzer der ersten Aufiage. Herausgegehen Ton der Geographisohen
Anfltalt von Yelhagen und Klasing in Leipzig. In 3 Liefeningen jede zu 2 Mark
{2a.). 3. Lief. SchlussHeferung* Bielefeld und Leipzig, Verlag von Velhogen
k Klasing, 1887- (Dulau.)
Tliis IB the last issue of the supplement to Andree a Handatlafl, and con-
tains eight maps. No. 2 is a map of Upper Italy which calls for no special
mention; the hill-work is^ however, rjither flat in appearance, and hardly
conveys a correct idea of the physical features of the conntrj\ No. 19 is an
extremely good map of EaHtern China and the Corea, tlie latest information
having been used in its construction. No. 20, Afghatiistau and Balnchistan,
in which the nurth-wpst boundary of Afghanistani which was the subject of
protracted discussion, has l>een correctly laid down, and it has in other reapecta
been brought up to date. No. 21 is a chart of the South-Sea Islands. No. 22,
New Guinea and the Bismarck Archii>elago, exhibits the results of exploration
in New Guinea up to tli« end of 188G, the Kaiserm Augusta River in Kaiser
Wilheltns Land^ and other recent discoveries being shown. On this sheet two^U
inset mape, on ealargetl scalea, oiio of Astrolabe Bay, and another of parts of New^f
Britain and New Ireland^ in the vicinity of St. George*s Channel, are given,^^
together with a map of South-west Germany, drawn on the scale of the
principal map. No. 31 is a map of German East Africa in which the extent of ^
German possessions Is erroneously indicated, and wo can Dot do better tlian
refer the reader to an exhaustive note on this subject, contained in the R.G.I
*ProoeedmgB' for August of the present year (pp. 490-6). The territory i
the Sultan of Zanzibar is^ however, correctly laid down and shows at a glano
how meagre are hia present jxissessions in cctmparison with the vast extent <
cx)untry over which he claimed authority hut a few jeai*s ago. No, 34, Capel
Colony, Natal, &c., is a well-drawn map in which ixiUticat boundaries and
physical features arc clearly indicated. No , 35 is a map of South and Central
Africa, on which an inset map of the kingdom of Saxony, drawn on the same
gcale, is given,
Arg6Etina> — Atlas Geneml de la Republica , construido segun los datos mas
recientes bajo la direccion de Carlos Beyer, Ingeniero Geografo de la Casa Editors.
Orabado y Revisado por los S.S. W. and A* K. Johnston, propriedad eaclusiva del
Editor. Buenos Aires, Angel Estrada, 1887.
This atlas contains twenty-two maps,* the three first being those of the
world in hemispheres, a geneml map of South America, and a general map of
the Argentine Republic. As each of the thirteen provinces is given on a single
sheet the scales on which they are drawn, of necessity, vary in proportion to
the areas represented, and the same remark applies to those of the Governmenta
of Misiones, Formosa y del Ghaoo, Pampa y del Rio-Negro, Neuquen, Chubut
y de SanU Craz, and Tierra del Fue^o. The maps which this atlas contains
are the work of Me^rs. W. and A. K. Johnston ; they are very clearly drawn,
and have been compiled from the most recent sources, all railroads being shown
np to date, and every road of importance laid down. As a whole the atlas is a
very creditable production, and is a most important addition to the cartography
of South America.
PROCEEDINGS
OF TBB
ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
AND MONTHLY RECORD OF GEOGRAPHY.
Discovery of two new rivers in British New Guinea.
By Thbodorb F. Beyan, F.B.aj3.
Kap, p. 658.
The accompanying map of less than six weeks' exploratory work in
British New Guinea will, I trust, be found fairly full and self-explana-
tory. A private firm (Messrs. Bums, Philp, & Co.) lent their steamer
Victory (of 90 tons register, 25 horse-power, 100 feet length and 9 feet
draught) for the expedition, which was planned, organised, and (so far
as related to the specialists) partly found by the leader. To the courtesy
of the New South Wales Government we are indebted for the carefully
prepared map* which accompanies this short and hurriedly written
preliminary account.
The Victory left Thursday Island, Torres Straits, on the 17th March
last, and entered the Aird river at Cape Blackwood two days later. At
Attack Point a hostile body of sixty nude Papuans contested our entrance
to the great river. These savages, after some hesitation, bore down upon
us, alternately splashing the water into the air and beating time with
their paddles against the sides of their canoes, also shooting volleys of
arrows at us both before and after coming within range. This attack
was decided in our favour, without any bloodshed, by a judicious use of
the steam-whistle and a few shots fired wide and high. These harmless
measures caused the natives to take as one man to the water, prior to
re-embarking and paddling off crestfallen home. They were painted,
decorated with feather head-dresses in addition to other ornaments, and
wore white groin shells to partly conceal their nudity. They were above
the middle height, of great muscular development, and of a dark bronze
colour.
From Attack Point deep water (as shown by the figures representing
reductions to low-water soundings) was carried in an easterly direction
into a broad opening leading to Aird Hills on the one hand, and out into
Deception Bay on the other. This estuaiy was, I believe, unnoticed by
Captain Blackwood in 1845, who turned back from the Aird river, when
* This map is on a very large scale ; the map we give is a reduotion of it. — [Ed.]
No. X.-.00T. 1887.] 2 Ti
696 DISCOVERY OF TWO NEW RIVERS IN BRITISH NEW GUINEA.
distant about eight estimated miles sontli-westerlj from Aird Hills,
avowedly " owing to the strong body of enemies in his rear." These
latter hills were placed by ns in longitude 144° 11', or ten miles west of
their location by Blackwood.
From the coast to this point the country was of alluvial formation,
intersected in all directions by a labyrinth of waterways. Aird Hills
proved to be an isolated range of volcanic tuff resting upon basalt
boulders at the water-level. To the north of Aitd Hills a second small
body of natives was encountered. They came down in their canoes,
keeping close in to the river banks until about 400 yards distant, when
they landed in the thick scrub, and retutned with piles of green
branches as a token of peace. By signs, words, and the exercise of
patience they were coaxed first to the boat sent out to meet them, and
finally alongside the steamer. Amongst them were a few women and
children. Males and females possessed but little covering, and in some
oases were quite naked. Of the middle height and a light bronze
complexion, they reminded me of the Eoitapuans of the south-east coast.
A river leading northward was followed up from this point for a dis-
tance of 10 miles, when the water shoaled, and a return had to be made
to the southward of Aird Hills. Thence a channel was found into a
broad stream coming down from a north-westerly direction, up which we
proceeded, through swampy alluvial country, as far as Bamett Junction,
where the river bifurcated and the tide ceased. This proved to be the
head of the delta. From Bamett Junction the river wound round low
hills for a distance of four miles, when, at a somewhat abrupt bend, two
native houses on the summits of volcanic cones came into view. It was
soon evident that the strange apparition of the steamer gliding into these
fastnesses was visible from the shore, as the mellow sound of the oonoh-
shell was heard warning the inhabitants of the scattered village of danger.
Slowly the steamer approached, and when abreast of the village, and
opposite a creek, some canoes full of natives were seen paddling off in
abject terror. A mile above this village the river widened, and two
important tributaries, coming in from the north-west and north-east,
formed Bowden Junction in S. lat. 7° 11', E. long. 144°.
Seeing that the steamer had stopped, the natives of Tumii (as the
hiU-village was called) approached in their canoes, but very warily. As
they neared the steamer it was perceived that so pronounced were their
friendly feelings that they had dressed their own persons with green
boughs as well as their canoes. Then ensued a series of dumb motions
on our part to express our good intentions, together with the use of
words likely to be recognised by the natives. The next step was to
bend a slip of turkey-red cloth, a piece of sharpened hoop-iron, and one
or two trifles on to a wooden batten, and lot it drift with the current
down-stream. One native, bolder than the rest, paddled after this
parcel and, after cautious inspection, appropriated it, and donned the
DISCOVERY OF TWO XKW RIVERS IX HRrilSH NEW GUINEA. 597
598
DISCOVERY OP TWO KEW ItU'ERS IN BRITISH KEW GUINEA.
red cloth rs a covering for his frizzly hair* By such ineaiifl con fid once
was promoted, and taking with me two men, I drifted slowly down in
the botit towards the natives, and after overcoming their natural shyness,
obtained bone-tipped arrows in harter, and taught theTuniuans to shake
handE,
This tnhe had certainly never seen and possihly bad never heard of
white men before, Blackwood, the only previous explorer in these parts,
not having penetrated within 30 miles of this place*
From Bowden Junction the Bums river^ or north-west tributary,
was ascended until a fall in the river-bed of two feet impeded further
navigation. It was found on landing that the banks were 8 or 10 feet
aljove the river4evel, that the country was studded with fine timber
and not too dense an undergrowth. Tracks of wild bogs were seen, and
calls of king birds of Paradise and Paradisea raggiana, hornbille, parrots,
pigeons, and other birds were heard. Up this river tho Tuma natives
again visited us and bad to be attended to. When the shades of evening
fell they glided off borne, beating time with their paddles against the
sides of their canoes, splashing the water high into the air, chanting a
lowd song, occasionally looking round and crying out *' Narmo ! Narmo l "
to show that tlieir intentions were friendly.
Up the north-cast tributary, or Philp river, however, deep water
was carried as far as Victory Junction, the river winding round bills
of from 300 to 2000 feet in height, of cretaceous limestone formation,
in places sloping precipitously and thickly wooded to the water's
edge. A short distance above Victory Junction was found a mineral
spring, similar in some respects to the sulphuretted hydrogen waters of
Harrogate* Ahove this point, however, rocky bars or barriers, over
which the water ran as through a sluice-gate, closed the river to navi-
gation by tho steamer. Thirteen miles were added to our knowledge of
this part of the country hy means of a boat- party, which reached Fastre
Island after three days' hard rowing and warping the boat up the river
hanks, in some cases foot by foot at a time. Thence a track was cut for
four miles along the lower spurs of a lofty range, and through dense
tropical jungle.
At tho alluvial island camping-place (marked, on map» '* Boat-party,
1st April, 1887 ") pebbles of water- worn metamorphic slate, diorite, also
magnetic iron sand yielding from every dish washed a few colours (less
than a pinVhead in size) of scaly gold, were obtained. The formation
on either bank of the river opposite to this island, as also at the highest,
point reached by means of the track cut, was of dense basalt. Specimens
of these were forwarded to Mr. Wilkinson, Government Geologist of
New South Wales, who reports as follows:—** The pebbles of slate and
quartz found on the island in the Philp river are indicative of formations
which sometimes contain auriferous reefs, as well as copper and other
metaEiferous lodes. These pebbles, though originally derived from
DISCOVERT OF TWO NEW RIVEHS IK BRITISH KEW GUINEiL
600
DISCOVERY OF TWO NEW RIVERS IN BRITISH NEW GUINEA.
palreozoio rocks, may have been washed out of conglomerate beds suoii
as occur in tlie cretaceous formation on the Strickland river; but from
the occurrence of gold in the black sand which is found with them, it is
more probable that both they and the gold have been brought down l:»y
the river from the primary formation forming the mountains, which may
not be more than 20 or 30 miles distant. We may therefore anticipate
mineral discoveries being made in these mountains, though not neoes-
earily richer than are found in similar formations forming the ranges in
ihe mining districJe of Australia,"
In April the wet season is not fairly over. The normal strength of
the current on these ridges, combined with the freshets caused by the
almost nightly rains, rendered further progress by means of the boat
impracticable. The same cause also rendered any hope of getting to
the primary rocks in the three weeks which remained of our allotted
time, over ranges drenched by the monsoon and swarming with
ravenous leeches, quite out of the question. The estimated position of
Fastre Island was 6^ 39' S. lat., 1«^ 11' E. long., being 80 miles direct
from Cape Blackwood, or about 100 miles by the river course. At
this point we were within 21^ miles of the German boundary.
At 3.30 p.m., on April 3rd, a start was made with the whaleboat on
the down-oourate and return journey. All were found to be well on
board the Vidorif.
On the following day the steamer proceeded to return, and in the
afternoon anchorage was come to opposite the friendly Tumii village, the
inhabitants of which lustily shouted ** Narmo," in token of the good
feeling that existed between us. An exchange of visits was made ; I
went ashore in the dingy, and after my return the natives came on
board the steamer* A vocabulary of a hundred words was, after some
difficulty, obtained from the nativea. Blen, women, and children
examined every niche and cranny open to their inspection on the vessel,
and displayed amazement at what they saw. Afterwards another visit
was paid to the shorCj the boat being taken up a creek skirting the
nearest volcanic cone on which reeted the chiefs bouse. The gardens
of the villagers were soon reached, where sugar-cane, bananas, and
tobacco were growing luxuriantly. Off the river bank, opposite to the
village, were one or two interesting limestone caves thickly crusted with
stalactites and stalagmites.
Next day, April 5th, the natives again came on board and examined
eveiythingtone being horrified at seeing f^alt-beef in a cask, and another
terror-struck at seeing his own ugly reflection in a mirror. Several of
them now began to exhibit thievish propensities. Finally, the natives
when we landed on shore once more began repeating the word ** Ootoo,"
and waving their arms downstream. They had apparently sufficiently
satisfied their curiosity, and would be glad to say good-bye to the white
men and thuir vessel. One very old and wrinkled man rubbed his nose
DISCOVERT OF TWO NEW RIVERS IN BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 601
and pinched the tip of it, then pinched and rubbed the pit of his
stomach. Another signified by signs the act of cutting off the head
and arms, using the words " oorar," and " baddinar."
The mountain ranges to the north they called " Warharagee " ; their
own hill, houses, and the country to the west, " Tumu " ; the country to
the east, " Imugii " ; and the land to the south, " KubOee." A peculiarity
of the Tumuans was the way in which the men wore their hair, shaving
it off from above the forehead, but leaving a tuft on the crown tied with
a topknot from behind, while a few matted locks hung down. No
known Papuan dialect would have been of use at Tumu.
When leaving the Douglas river, a broad opening unnoticed by
Blackwood, leading from Aird Hills out to sea through Deception Bay,
was taken, but we first made a stay at the previously unknown village
of Moko.
While the Tumuans were of average height and size, these coast
people were of great stature and muscular development, besides being
of a darker bronze colour. Like the other natives of this new district,
the Mokoans were shy and at first difficult of approach. Even when
intercourse was had with them they remained suspicious and on the
alert, while the slightest hasty action or even discordant sound was
sufficient to scare them away.
Deep water was carried out of Deception Bay on 9th April, 1887, into
the Gulf of Papua, as will be seen from the soundings on the map, and
a visit was then paid to several villages on the coast as far, and in-
cluding, Motu Motu, where despatches were left for Her Majesty's Special
Commissioner for British New Guinea, Hon. John Douglas ; so that
should any mishap have befietllen the expedition on the latter half of its
exploratory work, the discovery of the Douglas and Philp rivers would
not be lost to the world.
As will be seen by reference to Admiralty chart (Gulf of Papua,
sheet 4), five river openings between Orokolo and Bald Head had been
reported by natives to lead into one large river, to discover which was
our next object. The mouth of each opening, however, proved to be
blocked by a sand-bar, washed by heavy surf. The broad estuaiy
bounded by Bald Head on the east and sheltered by a non-shifting sand-
bank (seen by Blackwood in 1845) proved to be accessible to navigation,
and the Victory anchored inside of Bald Head on the night of 14th April,
1887, and broke again on new ground. In a little neighbouring bight a
village was discovered, pcuily hidden and sheltered by a grove of coco-
nut trees. Canoes with natives paddled o£^ and though shy at first, they
afterwards came near. The tribe was called Kiwa Pori. Over two
hundred men appeared in thirty canoes. One of their signs was to hide
their lowered heads in their hands and then to draw their hands down
over cheeks, mouth, chin, neck, breast and abdomen. At dusk they
peacefully dispersed; and next morning forty-nine oanoes with more
602
DISCOVEKY OFiTWO KEW RIVERS IN BRITISH NEW GUINEA.
tban three huDdred natives were counted. Tlxe men were of nmifiually
fme stature, equalling those at Motu Motu. They were dark bronze in
colour, and almost, some of them entirely, nude. Though with well*
nourished and muscular frames, yet their retreating foreheads and heavy
eyebrows gave them a sinister expression.
Ten miles from Bald Head in a northerly direction the land was
found to traverse the horizon, and broad sheet© of water coming in firom
west and east formed a junction. Taking the w^esterly opening and
passing round the point, after proceeding for a distance of four miles a
second (named Beveridge) junction was reached. At this point the
river was nearly half a mile wide, and an extensive mud flat was found.
Some very fair agricultural land was now passed, with light chocolate-
coloured soil, and covered with scrub that could be cleared with ease,
and would form a enitable field for the cultivation of rice, sugar-cane,
and tobacco. Fresh-water springs were notioed flowing over the banks.
Numerous very small deserted huts built on the ground and unsupported
by the usual piles, were passed, and a number of crocodiles and flying
foxes were seen. The country afterwards steamed through was alluvial
swampy land, in which nipa and sago palms flourished amidst a thick
scrub. The river subsequently narrowed to 60 yards, and at low tide
the water was quite fresh. It was found necessary to anchor here, and
some of the party getting into the whale-boat, rowed up the river, which
continued to get narrower until it broke up into several deep*water
creeks of only a few yards in width, and further navigation was closed.
The highest point reached up this (the Stanhope) river was 7^ 14' S. lat,
and 144^ 28' E. long., being 34 tailes due north from Arai river on the
coast, or 40 miles by river courses to Bald Head. lieturning to Beveridgo
Junction the Penrose river was followed up for six miles, when it too
shoaled, and a return had to be made to Macleay junction. Thence an
easterly branch was explored in the whale-boat and found to lead
into a larger river which sent off a subdivision down to the coasL This
latter was presumably the ^lawau river previously charted.
A few miles further, after passing a small grove of coco-nut trees
indicating the proximity of natives, a canoe was almost run into at a
sudden bend. The occupants, consisting of a few men, women, and
children, sot up a shrill cry and paddled off hastily. A few minutes
later some twenty savages sprang up from behind bushes on the opposite
bank, bows and arrows in hand, while simultaneously several canoes
came down from ahead. Rowing back past the shore natives we then
stopped, and waited for those on the water to approach, wdth whom
after a natural delay some barter was done, and the foundations were
aid for amicable intercourse. On the day following, the steamer was
token up to their village, which lined the river bank under groves of
coco-nut and bread-fruit trees, and near gardens of banana and sugar-
cane* The houses of this village, or Evorra (as wo found it was called)^
J
DISCOVERY OF TWO NEW RIVERS IN BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 603
were supported on piles some six feet from the ground, and were of the
hog-baoked shape, open in front, with projecting peaks, and the usual
verandah. From this tribe (in the Namai district) a vocabulary of
one hundred words was obtained after some difficulty. The word for
sun, ipenriy being given with a whisper, fiuger pointing upwards, but
averted gaze. These Evorra natives, though only some 12 or 15 miles
distant in a direct line from the coast, were not of so fine a physique as
either the Eiwa Porians or Mokoans, probably owing to their river being
less abundant in fish than the ocean. They also seemed to be of a some-
what lighter complexion, and to speak a different dialect. Carved and
painted bark waist-belts tightly pinched the abdomens of the males, who
also wore white groin shells and pearl-shell breastplates of crescent shape,
while the younger men adorned their persons with the brilliant leaves of
variegated crotons. Among novelties obtained at this viUage were flat
masks of semi-oval shape, varying in length from one to eight feet. These
were constructed of fibre of a sterculiaceous plant with a raised rim down
the middle from top to bottom, and at one end a projection shaped like a
nose with two eye-apertures alongside. The whole was decorated with
an irregular semi-serpentine pattern in black and white, and the rims
were edged with cane frilling. Human and cabalistic representations
carved on small fiat slabs of bark and palm frond were also new to my
previous experience of Papuan ethnology. Specimens of both descrip-
tions of these curios were hung up in front of the houses apparently as
emblems.
Two miles from Evorra village a second junction was reached, where
a river over two hundred yards broad, with a steady current of fresh
water, came down and bifurcated, throwing off the side branch which
we had steamed up, in addition to a river fiowing southerly. Five miles
above Llewellyn Junction a few natives were spoken, but from that on
to the highest point reached no signs of human life presented themselves,
save at different places (as marked on the map) groups of small and
seemingly deserted huts, sometimes surrounded by gardens. These little
domiciles consisted of one or two stakes and a roof thatched over with
palm fronds, and were probably the temporary shelter of coast tribes
paying occasional visits up the river to obtain sago and other like pro-
duce which abounded in the swampy country on the Stanhope, also in
the deltaic portion of the larger rivers. In one deserted hut, exceeding
the others in size, was found fixed up in front a " taboo " consisting of
a painted mask resting on a large circular wisp of sago-palm fibre and
rattan, with pendent streamers of the same fibrous material; while
half-way down the floor of the hut were bones of fishes and small deer
suspended from streamers.
Up to Bennett Junction the river pursued a remarkably tortuous
course, and at that point widened to nearly half a mile. Five miles
further, at Woodhouse Junction, the head of the delta of the large river
604
DISCOVERY OF TWO NEW KIYERS IN BRITISH NEW GUINEA.
previouflly reported by the natives waa readied , At an eaaterly bend
about one mile north of Mount Samuel, where the stream expanded to
nearly three-quarters of a mOe for a short distance before entering the
riilges, a magnificent view was obtained of hill and mountain scenery
rising tier above tier in the clear nioi-ning air, over a foreground of
reeds and PandanuB scrub. Above this bend the river naiTowed to
400 yards, flowing between banks covered with bread-fruit trees. Fur-
ther north the channel ran through gorges of volcanic rocks clothed
with verdant foliage to tho water's edge. Here the whirling eddies
denoted the presence of sunken rocks underlying the swift eurreot in
the bed of the stream. Higher up again a rapid waa shot with some
difficulty, owing to the velocity of the water. Its discoloration was due
in this case, as on the Philp river^ to the amount of detritus in sus-
pension brought down from the great mountains. Half a mile above
this rapid it was deemed unsafe to proceed further in a vessel drawing
nine feet of water. Estimated position, S. kt. 7° 18', E. long, 144'^ 59*'.
Two miles were added, however, by means of the boat, and thence an
unintermpted view for a like stretch was obtained ; but sonndings be-
came more and more irregular. There seemed some possibility, however,
that beyond this tier of near ranges a vaOey stretched to the foot of
mountains of great altitude over the German boundary. As the six weeks
of our allotted time were nearly up, and representations were made to
me of the risk of continuing, also that our coal would not suffice for
further stoaming, it became necessary to return seawards by means of
the channeln aBcended, and consequently kno^vna. To have taken any of
the untried channels in the delta would have been unsafe in view of the
current astern, which might have carried the steamer high and dry on
to any bidden shoah The Gixlf of Papua was again entered from Bald
Head on 28th AprU, 1887.
It wiU appear from the map that as the result of thirty-four days*
actual exploration two principal new rivers — namely, the Douglas (with
its tributary the Philp) and the Queen's Jubilee — were discovered, and
each was followed up for a distance of nearly 100 miles by river coureos
from the coast* The Aird river, discovered by Blackwood in 1845, proves
to be only one of numerous subdivisions in the delta of the main stream.
From Bamett Junction, the head of the delta of the Douglas river,
45 miles from the coast, Aird Hills are the solitary exception to the vast
expanse of level alluvial land, clothed with jungle, which forms the delta.
From Baruett Junction to the highest point reached, the country was
Kcrubby, and of cretaceous limestone formation, giving place to a belt of
basalt rocks, while the pebbles of metamorphic slate, diorite, also the
magnetic iron sand containing auriferous indications found on the alluvial
island in the PhOp river, point to the primary rocks as forming the
watershed of this river at a distance of probably not exceeding 20 to
30 mileSi if so much, from the highest points reached. By the Stanhope
■
DISGGfVERT OF TWO NEW RIVERS IN BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 605
and Penrose rivers the expedition passed through, low country similar to
that in the deltaio portions of the larger riversy and formed of fertile
alluvium washed down from the main range. Igneous rocks again were
found north of Woodhouse Junction, on, the Queen's Jubilee river. Both
rivers disembogue themselves into the Gulf of Papua over an area re-
spectively of probably 40 miles. Above the head of the deltas of the
two larger rivers the scenery was found to be picturesque in the extreme.
Hills of from a few hundred feet to ranges of one, two, and even three
thousand feet, clothed with verdure, came down almost to the water's
edge. There were, amongst other trees, cedars, oaks, eucalypti, myristica,
fig-trees, acacias, pines, palms, and tree-ferns. Bamboos, ferns, and a
varied flora adorned the river bank. Butterflies of gaudy hue and some
birds of the brightest plumage fluttered in and out amongst the trees
and shrubs. The water was placid, and in the deepest recesses of the
gorge-like ranges, was sombre and cold.
On steaming slowly upwards the finely wooded ranges became
higher, the river bends more abrupt, and the current swifter. On both
rivers the country thus described was of a good useful class, quite unin-
habited as far as could be perceived. It also possesses three great
advantages— plenty of timber, deep water alongside, and a navigable
channel for a deep-draughted vessel for a distance of nearly 100 miles
from the coast. Yast areas of unclaimed and uninhabited land on all
these new rivers offer the facilities required for the successful cultivation
of rice, sugar-cane, and tobacco ; or for the production of what are known
in India as valuable crops in contradistinction to ** dry crops." For the
prosecution of these industries coolie labour would have to be imported.
In their lower portion there was a tidal rise and fall of 12 to 14 feet;
and the rule seemed to apply that the land was making on the convex
side while the deepest channel and strongest current were found close in
to the concave bank. Thus by studying the tides, and when the tide
ceased, following the deepest channels, in addition to taking continuous
soundings, no serious difSculties were met with. Though the steamer
was several times aground, for hours at a time, as a rule in soft mud,
either a freshet in the river, or the tidal rise near the coast (backing up
the fresh water for one or two feet for great distances inland) came to
our aid, and the vessel floated off without ever sustaining damage. One
important feature in connection with the higher waters of the larger
rivers was that owing to the almost daily scouring caused by the frequent
nightly rains, mosquitoes and malaria were absent, and beyond the fact
that one man had a relapse for a few hours of illness caught months
previously in Western Australia, fever and ague were unknown.
The days were almost invariably bright, and the sky clear till noon
when masses of cumuli appeared on the horizon. While among the
ranges on both rivers the thunder at nights was frequently almost
deafening and the forked lightning most vivid^ both tbeing uraally the
606
DISCOVERY OF TWO NEW RIVERS IN BRITISH NEW GCINEA.
precursorB of torrential rain. The mean temperaturo at midday was 86^
in the shade, falling as low as 72"^ at daybreak. During March and April
there was occasionally a slight breeze ofT the land at night-time. The
mornings in March frequently set in with a breeze from the north-west,
-veering round to sonth-weflt as the day advanced. At the end of April
the south-east monsoon began to fume and bluster off the Queensland
coast, causing a heavy swell to wash the opposite Papuan shores. By
reference to the map it will be seen that the Gulf of Papua presents
a lee shore to the whole force of the south-east monsoon. Making the
entrances of these new rivera will therefore not be unattended by
dangers to navigation^ from May to September inclusive, until this part
of the coast has been systematically surveyed by the Admiralty.
The map is based upon a careful compass survey, supported by a
few astronomical observations taken as opportunity offered. It should,
however, be regarded as a preliminary reconnaissance or flying survey,
since it was oompiled in thirty- four days, that being the aggregate
period spent by the expedition in these new rivers. For the same
reason, as also the circumstance of imperfect inBtrumcnts, the altitude
of the mountains and the great slope of the river-beds could not be
obtained with any pretensions to absolute accuracy on this occasion.
These and kindred observations, together with a register of rainfall^
must make a leading feature of the next (and it is to be hoped more
extended) expedition*
Hills and ranges varying from a few hundred to consitlerably over
2000 feet, clothed with verdure, came down almost to the water's edge
on the Philp and Jubilee rivers, as previously mentioned, while thd
serrated forest-clad tops of mountains estimated to bo over 60QO feet in
altitude, were distant not more than 12 or 15 miles from the highest
points reached. Behind these latter again rose blue mountain-peaks,
rivalling in elevation Mounts Yule and Owen Stanley.
Fastre Island, on the PhUp river, would appear to be not more than
25 miles distant from the German boundary, which comes even nearer
to tho highest point reached by us on the Jubilee river. It seems
therefore probable that the natural boundary'" or water-parting between
the river systems of the two territories may be found to exist a few
miles to the north of the present line. In any case there is probably
an impenetrable wall of mountains between the two posflessiouB, with
no likelihood of any large river on the German side having its sotiroe
in close proximity to the head-waters of the Philp or Jubilee rivers, so
that a compromise or adjustment should if necessary be readily effected
between the two powers. This boundary question will, however, b©
one of the most important problems for any future expeditiodi to
definitely determine.
The new regions explored proved but thinly peopled. All the
natives met with» except ^tho hostile Papuans at Attack Point| were
DISCOVERY OF TWO NEW RIVERS IN BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 607
readily amenable to hnmane influence. The two largest tribes, and these
were found on the coast, as might have been expected, namely, those of
Moko in Deception Bay, and the Eiwa Fori at Bald Head, numbered
probably considerably less than one thousand souls, all told ; while
the small tribe behind Aird Hills and the Tumuans combined were only
some two or three hundred strong. Not more than a dozen Pimuriians
or Vaimuruans were seen, while the Evorra natives possessed some
fifteen houses only, and a population which might be very liberally
estimated at two hundred. No natives at all were seen on the Philp
river, nor north of 25 miles by river courses from the coast up the
Jubilee river. It would therefore appear that the higher waters of
these rivers, and even for some considerable distances before they enter
the gorges and near the main ranges, are uninhabited. Long rambles
into the bush for collecting purposes whenever opportunity offered
seemed also to confirm this view.
The natives of the few villages referred to gave indications of
Dravidian origin, as well as of both Moluccan and Melanesian character-
istics, to judge from dialects, appearances, and customs. From the new
tribe behind Aird Hills a long screen of latticework, such as is used in
Siam to this day for stretching across the mouths of creeks to ensnare
fish, was obtained. It is put by the New Guinea natives to the same
use, namely, that of forming a weir ; also the war shields of the Kiwa
Pori natives resembled, not indistinctly, those until lately in use in New
Caledonia. All these new tribes wore nose pencils, and distended the
lobes of their ears, also smoked sun-dried tobacco (corresponding to the
Manilla leaf) by means of bamboo tubes. The Tumuans especially
might be described as almost of an intellectual cast.
The canoes of all these tribes were of a more or less similar type,
namely, dug-outs with either a bank of mud or a small boy squatting
in the prow and opposing his back as an obstacle to the incoming water.
All were without outriggers. Some, however, were of unusual dimen-
sions ; one Kiwa Pori canoe holding twenty-nine men, who all stood up
to paddle. Not a few were grotesquely carved and painted outside to
represent either inverted turtle-shells or crocodile scales. We were not
a little amused at the action of one Moko native, who, singly in his
fragile canoe, baled the water out by a motion of his left foot,* keeping
his balance, and paddling vigorously against the choppy sea meanwhile.
In the nomenclature adopted on the map every member of the
expedition is represented. The three principal rivers are named re-
spectively to commemorate the leading event in the year of their dis-
covery, namely, the anniversary of the fiftieth year of Her Majesty's
reign ; also the names of the Hon. John Douglas (Special Commissioner
for British New Guinea) ; and Mr. Robert Philp (to whose intelligent
liberality these discoveries are greatly due).
This six weeks' expedition, though primarily planned mainly for
608 THE RAUn MCERIS ; OR STORAGE RESERVOIR OF MIDDLE EGYPT.
g^ogmphical discovery, was by no means barren in collateral results.
Fifty pliotographsj including many of new tribes and scenery, were
obtained, and interesting additions to our knowledge of the flora, fauna,
and anthropology of New Guinea ha^e been contributed by meana of
the collectionB made.
TJie Bamn Moeris ; or storage reservoir of Middle Egypt,
By Cope Whitehouse, ka/
Mapj p. 65d.
It is now generally known, as the result of my researches previously
communicated to the scientific world ,| that the Baian basin is a depression
to the south and west of the Fayoum, between lat. 28'' 40' and lat 29° 30\
Its northern extremity is nearly on a line with Beni-Suef, 73 miles south
of Cairo. It is connected on the south-east with a narrow valley known
as the Wadi Mu61ah. I have heretofore described how I was led to
believe that some such depression must exist, and bow, at first alone,
and subsequently accompanied by engineers employed by me, or put at
my disposal by the Egyptian Government, these observations were
verified. It was my opinion that about the eighteenth century before
onr era, foreign engineers bad conceived a gigantic scheme for the
draining of the Fayouoi, and the redemption of the Delta. They had
constructed a dyke at el-Lahun, with a regulator by which the supply
of Nile w^ater was reduced to the amount required for the perennial
irrigation of a province, which the Jews in the time of St. Jerome
identified with Goshen, and in the twelfth century asserted to be Pi thorn..
The dyke still serves its original purpose. They bad also availed them.-
selves of a series of drainage channels under the west bank of the
Nile valley. By deepening the natural watercourses, diverting the
flood waters of the Nile, and protecting the stream at intervals by dykes,
they succeeded in making a canal which for over three thousand years
—from the Exodus to the present time — has continuously supplied the
Fayoum with water. It is 270 miles in length, and with its immense
discharge, U far beyond any similar work in the world. Known as the
Bahr Jubuf, or Canal of Joseph, it deserves the name, w^hether it he due
to the Hebrew engineer who is said to have designed it, or to the
meaning of the word which, m popular parlance, implied that the
reproach of barrenness had been taken away by this offspring from the
Nile, and a new province added to l^gypt.
In order to extend cultivation throughout the entire delta it is
necessary to increatse the summer supply of water in the river itself.
It had been suggested by French engineers that a dam might be built
• Uead at the Mancheeter Meetmg of the Btiti.^h AsBooiation, September 2nd, 1887.
t VWe * Froccediijgs,' 1884, p. 601 ; 1885, p. 756; 1886, p. 445.
:
THE RAlAN M(ERIS; OB STORAGE RESERVOIR OP MIDDLE EGTFT. 609
across the Upper Nile near Silsileh, and a lake formed which would
give a considerable additional supply. It did not seem to occur to any
one that if the whole delta was in former times under cultivation, this
was in itself a conclusive proof that a storage reservoir had once
existed. The explicit statements of Herodotus, Strabo, Diodorus,
Mutianus, Pliny, and Claudius Ptolemy showed that the Nile had been
regulated by utilising a depression in the desert corresponding in shape
and situation to the Baian basin. It had been converted into an
artificial lake which controlled the flow of the Nile, averted its excessive
rise, and made provision against the annual recurrence of drought.
In Lower Egypt there are three seasons. From April 1st to the end of
July the discharge of the Nile is about 14,000 cubic feet per second, or
an average of about fifty million cubic metres per diem. A very high
Nile discharges 387,000 cubic feet per second, or an average of over a
thousand million cubic metres per diem. Only about one-half of the
delta, or about 2,625,000 acres, is under cultivation. About 820,000
acres more are ready for cultivation and about 1,670,000 acres could be
reclaimed if a uniform supply of water could be assured. In the
province of Oharbieh alone the area of land capable of being reclaimed
is reported by Mr. William WiUcocks to be over 600,000 acres. Ten
shillings an acre is the tax paid by inferior land in Egypt. The
revenue from better land exceeds thirty shillings. In a despatch,
dated June 14th, Sir H. Drummond Wolflf says : — " The cultivable land
of Egypt amounts to about 6,300,000 acres. The railways, telegraphs,
and the port of Alexandria are owned by the bondholders. Thus,
from a country consisting of 6,800,000 acres of cultivable land,
and with a population of about 6,800,000 including foreigners, an
annual sum is extracted and exported of 5,170,060J." The total revenue
is about 10,000,000r
It may therefore be assumed that a further revenue of 8,000,000L
could be raised if 2,390,000 acres were brought under irrigation.
On my return to Egypt in December 1886, the Egyptian Govern-
ment requested me to carry out further surveys, and detailed engineers
to work under my direction. Mr. Stadler ran a line of levels from
Mazurah, on the Bahr Jusuf, for a distance of 26 kilometres to the west.
This line was continued to the north-west into the Wadi Baian. It was
checked by a line to the south-east and east, back to the valley of the
Nile. It is shown on the accompanying map. Another line of levels
was run between the 6hai aq and the Baian depressions, which showed
that at the level of high Nile (ca. 30 metres) these basins are connected
by a narrow defile. A survey was also made of the desert from Birtebat
to Sedment el-Gebel, and a line of levels run across a narrow part of
the limestone hills separating the Oharaq basin from the valley of the
Nile. Another, and fifth, independent line of levels was carried from
the west end of the Birket el-Qenuiy whose surface level had been
610 THE RAUN MOERIS; OR STORAGE RESERVOIR OF MIDDLE EGYPT.
preyionsly established at — 40 metres, or 70 metres (about 225 feet) below
high Nile. Major Snrtees (of the Coldstream Guards) was detailed by
the War Office, at the request of Sir C. Scott-Moncrieff, to accompany
this expedition. He drafted a map with contours, which are embodied
on the map which accompanies this paper.
In view of these fetcts, Lieut.-Colonel Western, r.e., Director-General
of Works, was charged with the examination of the whole project. His
elaborate and most valuable report was prepared under the pressure of
work attendant upon the repairs of the Barrage. In it he shows that
the Baian basin might be utilised with immense benefit to Lower
Egypt. His report, which is dated May 12th, is as follows : —
The Wadi Halan having been proved to be of a reasonably large area, with a bed
level well below that of the Nile, and so situated as to lead to fair hopes of the
possibility of its being filled with Nile water at a cost commensurate with results,
the project was ordered to be considered.
The inspectors of irrigation of Lower Egypt were asked the areas of waste land
they could in the future profitably irrigate, the increased volumes necessary for such
extended irrigation, and the levels at which the Nile must be maintained at the
barrage to insure existing areas.
The answers received were as follows : —
Area cultivated 2,500,000 feddans
Area cultivable [i. e. ready for cultivation, without water] . . 800,000 „
Area reclaimable [i.e. marsh or other land requiring treat-
ment] 1,500,000 M
Total area 4,800,000 „
Note. — ^A feddan = 1*05 acre.
And as the minimttm service supply of 40 millions of cubic metres per day in
the Nile is considered as barely sufficient for the irrigation of the 2,500,000 feddans
of cultivated land, the volume necessary for the reclaimable lands would amount to
some 25 millions, or a volume far in excess of that likely to be available.
In order to fill any reservoir the opportunity of the high level of the river in
flood time must be availed of.
The inspectors report that 'for fair crops in the flood season the river should
stand at the barrage at the foUowinj; level : —
September 1 16*3
October 1 16*3
November 1 15*0
December 1 14*0
January 1 13*5
February 1 13*5
While from the records of the past 11 years it is found that the gauges to be
expected range : —
THE Rl]iAN M(ERIS; OR STORAGE RESERVOIR OF MIDDLE EGrPT. 611
And as average years can only (even in an optimist view) be calculated for we
find that the river level is only just sufficient for current requirements. (N.B. — It
is very probable that the inspectors took fair average years as giving the levels
necessary, but it is recorded by Linant Pasha that famines in Egypt very rarely
occur from lack of water, but almost invariably from an excess.) However, to pro-
ceed on the figures given by the inspectors.
It has been assumed hitherto that when the river naturally fell to a gauge of
13, the barrage gates might be lowered and the water maintained at this level. On
February 1st then, the gauge would be made to read 13 instead of the 12*7 recorded
as the average, and from this date forward to the rising of the river in July.
As these gauges, however, do not really show the result required, the volumes in
the river for every tenth day, from September 1st to February 1st, have been
worked out, and against these figures placed the volumes required at the barrage on
the same dates.
The results run as follows in millions of cubic metres per day : —
Number of
veArsin
which
ATAilabto.
MAximnm
Minimam
A^Uble
aTAilable
available
for the
inauyooe
in any
nnmber of
year.
one year.
yeaip.
September 1
5
102
18
50
10
6
113
33
71
21
7
204
83
124
October 1
7
293
49
164
10
7
367
18
175
21
10
468
15
209
Noyember 1
8
431
74
189
10
10
410
13
131
21
10
27q
14
92
December 1
8
159
14
58
10
11
196
28
98
21
11
253
90
159
And this abstracted again gives average volume —
For 11 years, 129 millions per day for 20 days on December 11 to 31.
„ 10 „ 138 „ „ 50 „ November 10 ,.
„ 70 „ October 21 „
134
140
134
127
100
„ September 21
no
10
120
1
The site for the head of the canal of supply to the Wadi Ratan reservoir would be
probably at or near Feshn, and the river levels at this site corresponding to the
average gauges on the dates worked to
September 1 29-1
October 1 29-8
November 1 28*8
December 1 26*6
January 1 25*6
February 1 24*9
Mayl 190
at Wasta.
It will thus be seen, that to ensure the filling of the reservoir every year, the
time available runs only from December 10th to 31st, or with a river gauge at 26*6
to 25*6, but that if a filling every second year or so were sufficient, the time would
be from September Ist to December 31st, or with gauges varying from 29*1 to 25*6.
The Wadi Balan, according to latest plans, may be taken as having surfaces and
contents as follows : — ^At 20 metres above the Mediterranean, surface 846,000,000
metres, contents 24,540 million metres ; at 25 metres, surface 924,000,000 metres,
contents 28,965 million metres; at 80 metreSy soriace 1,001,000,000 metres, '.cou-
No. X,— OoT. 1887.] 2 X
612 THE RAIAX MCERIS; OB STORAGE RESERVOIR OF MIDDLE EGTPT.
tents 33,777 million metres. The distance along the line of. the probable canal
from Feshn or Bibeh to the Wadi, may be taken at 55 kilome^rei, and allowing a
sbpe of l-25,000th there will be a loss of level of about 2 metree — and the lake can
never be filled to a higher level than 2*0 Nile level—- and as there will be approxi-
mately a similar loss of level in oonvejring the water back to the Nile at abont
Wasta, the difference of level of the Nile at the time of filling and at the time of
emptying must be not less than 2 by 2*0, pins the depth of water in the reservoir
to be utilised. The area of the lake at 25 metres above the Mediterranean being
924 millions, we may assume the area at 24 metres to be 911 millions, at 23 metres
896 millions, at 22 metres 880 millions, and again, assuming 10 milKons as
required per day for 100 days, the depth necessary will be 1*1 metre, or from 24
metres to 22 metres. The project is therefore feasible as regards levels and volumes
for the average volumes available every year.
Allowance must be made for evaporation and absorption, and this may furly be
taken at 1*2 metre in depth for the year, or at 25*2 metres to 24 metres above the
Mediterranean, 1103 millions. Total volume then to be passed in, 1103 millions
for absorption and evaporation, and 1000 millions for irrigation — total, 2103
millions, or 105 millions for 20 days, a smaller volume than that found available
during the period December 10th to 31st, and if there is water sufficient in these 20
days, a simple inspection of the table of volumes available will show that there is
more than ample water at any other period or for any less number of years than
the 11 worked to.
It may be noted here that it has been assumed that the barrage regulating gates
must not be touched during flood ; but if the barrage is put into working order
there is no reason tvhy the river should not be regulated the whole year and any
desired level at the barrage maintained, and in this case the Wadi Raian might be
filled always during the months of August, September, and October at a high level
and at a reduced cost, due to the smaller section of canals necessary.
The question of cost can at present only be worked out most roughly, and
perhaps it would be as well to let this stand over until some decision has been
arrived at on the facts collected and embodied in this note.
There are various ways in whioli the Euan reservoir migbt receive
an additional supply of water, so as to obviate the danger of even a
single short year, and to reduce the loss of head in the canal of supply
and outflow. The basins of Middle Egypt are now emptied into the
Nile. They might be allowed to flow westward into the new lake.
The calculated loss of two metres might thus be materially reduced.
A thousand millions of cubic metres might be passed through the
Bahr Jusuf from Asiut, and this would supplement the supply received
direct from the Nile at Feshn.
In short, there is no doubt that inasmuch as high Nile discharges
into the Mediterranean an enormous quantity of water, it is merely a
matter of detail to determine how it can be most advantageously
diverted into the basin which nature has placed at the side of the river,
and at what height it must be stored so as to yield a snfficient and
regular supply in the Delta.
The observations of Colonel Ardagh, c.b., b.e., will be sufficient to
show how far all objectionSy such as evaporation, leakage, deposit,
infiltration, impregnation, and loss of head have been snffidenily
considered.
TH£ DESEET FROM DAHSHUR TO MH RAIAK.
618
It k estimated tliat loss tkaQ 1,000,0001, would eufficQ for the work^.
They would consist of a canal across the Nile valley near Feshn, the
improvement of the Babr Jusiif, an embankment and basins in the Nile
valley, a cut or tunnel of less than three miles between the Nile valloy
and the Gharaq basin, an embankment of twenty miles to guide the
water into the Eaian Basin, with incidental expenses for gates, bridges,
tfec. It is, however, obvions that if the revenue would amount at the
end of a few years to three millions sterling, while the cost of mainten-
ance is inconsiderable, the question of the exact outlay is a minor
consideration.
The following papers relating to the same subject were also read
in the Geograjjhical Section at Maneht?ster ; —
The Feasibility of the Eaian project. By Colonel Ardagh, c.b-, k.e.—
Having maintained a constant interest in tlie iDTestt^tions of Mr. Cope TVhitehoii8«
during the five years I have i>as8ed in Egypt, and having actuolLy accompanied kim
into the Raitm basin, 1 conceive that it will be satisfactory to the Britiah Aseociation
to reeeive the evidence of an impartial observer upon this question, Mr. Cop
Whitehouse merits the thanks alike of antiquarintis, as of modern engineers, for his
researches relative to Lake Mcpris. I do not intend to say a word as to the identity
of the RaTan or Mullah basins with Lake M<rris, but only wish to call attention
to the fact t!iat Mr. Cope Whitehouse has discovered a bastn or depression which is un-
deniably caimble of being turned into u storage reservoir, fulfllling all the purposes of
the ancient Lake Mo-'fis, at a comparatively moderate cost ; and that the financial
reault to Egypt of the construction of sucli a storage reservoir capable of supplementing
the insufficieiit quantity of water furnished by the Nile during the jieriod of low
Nile, and of thus enabling larger tracts of land to be kept in cultivation, would
represent a very large profit on the capital invested, and a permanent increase in the
proluce of the country*
There are no engineering difficulties in the way. The only obstacle is the
financial one. It is an eoteririse which ought to be carried out by the State, and
should not be conceded to private individuals. There is, however, so much to be done
in connection ^ith the improvement of irrigation in Egypt, that the time and energy
of Sir C. Scott-Moncrieff and his staflf are already fully employed, and the fun^is
are inadequate for this and many other excellent projects. For my own part, 1 fed
convinced that sooner or later a storage reservoir most be made ; and the j>eople of
Egypt should be moat grateful to Mr. Cope Whitehouse for his eflbrts to arouse
public intcrtfst in a scheme of such value to their prosperity.
The Desert from Bahshur to Ain Kaian. By Captain rnvyrnj, Subtee8,
Coliistream Guards^ late Major in the Egyptian Army. — II
at the request of Sir CoUn fcscott-Moncrieff, k.o.m^q., o.i
Egyptian army, to accomf^any Mr. Cope Whitehouse aod i
the Fayoum and Dahshour and to make a top
desert to the north-weat and south-west of the
the Wadi Ealan, I followed the routes shown n
Office, and embodied m a map preimred by Mr. ^
of Public Works.
Apart from the contour lines of the Batan ttii;
oetiled.
L There is no continuation of the Payonm Ui&ii/.
Nile, towards the vfest.
614
THE BAHR YUSDP.
2* The Fayoum and Ralau basins are sepamted^to the south-west of the Qaar
Qenin^for a bread tl 4 of several miles by a plateau of limestone.
3» Tbe Ilalaii bafia is bounded on the west by steep cliffs.
The Bahr Yufluft roag^hly describing its present state and uses*—
By Captain H. H, Beow>\ r.e,, Inspector of Irrij^ation, Ith Circle, Egypt.^ — The Bahr
Ym^uf appears origmally to iiave been a drainage channel from Derut to KoBhesha,
formed njiturally duriag the subsidence of the annual overflow of the Xile, by the flood
water findinoj its way from Bouth to north along the lowest lying parts of the flooded
eountryj which parta run aloDg the edge of the desert at a greater or less diatanoe
from it, as the channel winds in its course* It ia pmbable that with the object of
giving a more early and plentiful supply to the basins along the course of thia
channel, or perhaps with the special view of improving the wat^r supply to the
Fayum, an artificial channel was cut to connect this drainage channel with the Nile,
The first artificial cut appears to have taken off from the Nile about a mile
above Derut, chosen probably because the Nile and the natural drains go channel
approached nearest to each other at Derut. Suhsequeutly this connection was sup-
pressed on the construction of a larger channel with its take-off from the Nile jnst
below Munf.tliit, a town about 25 miles above Derat. This channel also joined the
natural drainage channel a little north of Derut. The upper part of it atill exists as
a disused channel, and is known as the old Bahr Yuanf, or the Manfalutiyah. This
channel dso has been sujwrseded by the present Ibrahimiyah Canal, which baa its
bead at AsyCit, 38 miles above DerClt. The portion of the Manfaliitlyah (old Bahr
. Yusuf) from Beni Qora to Derut ^vas taken up and enlarged to form part of the
kj^resent Ibrahimiyah Canal* The Bahr Yuauf baa thus now a connection with the
liJile BuflSciently far up to ensure a supply of water to the Fayilm all the year round-
Tbe upper portion of the Ibrahimiyah requires to be ktpt clear by annual dredging
operations, which, previous to 1884, ooat not less than 40,000/. annually,, but now
cost about 20,000/., with a prospect of a still further reduction without loss of dis-
charge. The former superfieded h^ds were probably cleared annually by hand
labour (unpaid), during which time, at any rate, there must have been a break in th«
water supply of the Fay dm.
According to present nomenclature, the Bahr Yusuf takes ofl* from the Ibrahimiyah
Canal at Derut, ita head consisting of a regulator of five openings of 3'0 metres width
each y and a lock of 8*5 metres width, which latter ia throun wide open in flood
time, as the water-way of the regulator is insufficient without the lock to pass as
niQch as is required for the filling of the basins. At high flood there is 8 metres
depth of water on the floor of this head.
The canal-heads, basin*fecders, and escapes, fed at Derat by the Ibrahimiyah
Canal, are the following i-^
Kime.
Um,
OpcuSoga.
Bemarkii,
Dayiwi -,
Bahr Yustif
Derutlyah
Ibrahimlyali , . Y
^contiDnation)/
gahellyaU
Escape .*
BubId fectilcr
laundation of bus ins I
and irrigation ofj
Fayiim )
Irrigation and assists i
inundation . . . . J
for surplus arriving al\
Deriit J
2 of 30 m. width
5 of 3-0 m.
Lock of 80 m. „
3 of 3 0 m.
(7 of 3*0 ni. „
\Lockof8*5m* „
2 of 3-0 m. „
5 of 3-0 m. .,
Lock of 8*5 m. „
For flood time only.
I Flows through yetir.
For use from about
15th July to I5th
March.
THE BAHR YUSUP. 616
The Bahr Tusuf, from a poiDt a little to the north of Derat to el-LahtlD, at its
entrance to the Fayam, winds about to such an extent as to make it appear unlikely
that it was ever an artificially made channel, though it is of course admitted that
flowing water will make a straight channel siouoos with sufficient time allowed.
The cross section and supply of the Bahr Yusuf are not given here for want of
references. I^ however, my memory can be trusted, the discharges are about as
follows :* —
Minimum in June 1 million cubic metres per 24 hours.
l£aximum of channel in August and September 27 ^ >• n
Itfaximum of valley of Bahr Yusuf, west of right i
longitudinal bank, during emptying of basins I 72 „ „ „
in October )
The maximum discharge of the Ibrahimlyah Canal at Asyat is 65 million cubic
metres per twenty-four hours. The first regulating work on it is at DerQt, 38 miles
from its mouth, so that the flood enters freely at Asytlt, and has to be disposed of,
sometimes with much difficulty, on its arrival at Dertlt.
During the low Nile season the minimum discharge of the Canal Ibrahimlyah
above DerQt may be taken at 4 millions of cubic metres per twenty-four hours. Of
this the Ibrahimlyah (below DerQt), Saheliyah, and DerQtlyah together take
3 millions, leaving 1 million for the Bahr Yusuf to carry to the FayQm. As the
Nile rises, the head of the Bahr Yusuf is gradually opened further, until at last, on
or about the 15th August, the lock is opened, and the channel allowed to run as full
as possible without doing injury. A longitudinal embankment runs along the east
bank of the Bahr Yusuf, forming the west bank of the main basin chain. The lands
on the west of the Bahr Yusuf are, as a rule, simply flooded by the flnal overflow,
assisted by a few cross banks to hold up the water to some extent, but these banks
are merely the rudiments of degraded basins, or the embryos of basins in an
undeveloped state.
The basins on the east of the Bahr Yusuf are fed through openings in the south-
west comers of the basins, and the inundation of each basin is finally completed by
passing on the water from the basin next to it on the south. The discharge (at the
end of October) is effected by cuts in the cross banks dividing ba^ns, or in the
longitudinal bank along the Bahr Yusuf at the n<Mrth-west comers of the basins.
As the water thus supplied to the basins loses much of its suspended matter
before it reaches the more northerly basins, new feeders, either from the Nile direct
or from the Ibrahimlyah, crossing the Sefi area,t have been or are being made, or are
as yet in the state of proposed projects. As these are carried on to completion less
water will be required from the Bahr Yusuf, and therefore its discharge during flood
time can be utilised to a greater extent for other objects which may be decided to
be desirable. The cuts to feed and discharge basins will, as funds allow, be replaced
by regulators. Much has already been accomplished in the study of what is required
and in the collection of useful information to guide to practical and economical
projects for the proper control of the basin inundation. These works also, when
completed, will enable a less body of water to do the same work as is done under
present arrangements. The Bahr Yusuf enters the Faydm at el-LahfLn, where there
are means of regulation, and escapes its surplus water from above Lahiln into the
* These figures should not be made use of without being checked by records
available in Egypt.
t Sefi area is the area under all*year-round irrigation, as distinguished from the
basins, which are inundated onoe a year and grow one crop only.
&16
THE BAHB TUSUF.
Kofihesha Basin, whicli has an area of about 40,000 acres, and oontaios when full above
200 million cubic metres. This basin, when full, is relieved by making a cut in a.
bank which has to be annually constructed, and which should be replaced by a large
masonry escape, to give proper control over th6 water. During the emptying of the
basins, the Bahr Yusuf is the escape channel for the water of all the basins in
the Asyilt and Minieh Provinces from Asyut northwards : b^ it the water is carried
into the Koshesha Basin, from which it is finally discharged back into the Nile.
Next to the irrigation of the FaytLm this is its most important function, and
probably its original use. Running a^ it does throngh the lowtat lying laud, and
considered with reference to the provinces of Asyat, Minieh, and Beni-Suef, through
SKETCH MAP EXPLANATOBT OF THE SYSTEM OF WOBEIKG THE BA6IKS.
which it passes, it is better situated for a drainage channel than for a canal- of
irrigation. It is only the peculiarity of the levels of the Fayum that has rendered
the Bahr Yusuf a suitable channel for carrying the water supply of that province,
but even for that purpose it cannot be said to work economically, by reason of the
increased evaporation that must take place in consequence of its sinuous course,
unsuitable section, and low velocity. A straight line from Deriit to el-Lahdn is,
roughly, 150 miles ; the length of the Buhr Yusuf channel between the same places
is, actually, 270 miles.
The discbarge which, at different seasons, is returned into the Nile by the esca]>e
at Deriit, could be passed down the Bahr Yusuf, if required, provided that canal
were not already running full : that is, the discharge of the Bahr Yusuf could be
increased beyond that which it carries under present circumstanoes, from 15th July
THE CAUCASUS. 617
to 16th Augiuty and from Ut KoTember to about the 15th March, the increase in
the early part of this latter period being considerable, and decreasing to nothing on
the 15th March. If I remember rightly, the escape at DerUt is discharging about
20 millions in November, which would therefore be the amount by which it would
be possible to increase the Bahr Yusuf at the commencement of the named period,
were there means of utilising the water, and also arrangements for draining the
basins without the necessity for lowering the water-level in the Bahr Yusuf.
I r^ret that I have no papers with me giving for the dififerent months of the
year the water-levels which can be maintained at DerQt without affecting the dis-
charge of the Ibrahimlyah above Derflt, as these levels, no doubt, would be of
interest in the consideration of the subject, in connection with which Mr. Cope
Whitehouse has asked me to write this note.
The Cauca9U8.
Mb. Douqlas Fbeshfield writes : — I have jnst retumed from my seoond
journey in the Caucasus. It was undertaken at the invitation of
M. de Deohy of Budapesth, an Honorary Corresponding Fellow of the
Boyal Gleographical Society, who had visited the Caucasus in the three
previous years, and on his first journey had ascended Elbruz and Adai
Choqh. He was good enough to provide tents, various provisions,
instruments, &o., for the joint expedition, besides being able by his
knowledge of Bussian to dispense with an interpreter. I had also with
me my old oompanion and guide Fran9oi8 Devouassoud of Chamonix,
with his brother and nephew.
Starting from Naltshik, on the northern side of the chain, on
July 22nd, we crossed from Urusbieh by a seldom-used glacier pass of
over 12,600 feet, the Adyr-su, to Mestia in Suanetia. From Betsho in
that valley, I and two of the guides ascended a spur of Ushba (about
12,600 feet) and closely examined the mighty twin towers of that glorious
mountain, which rose still some 4000 feet above us in huge cliffs hissing
with avalanches. On August 6th, I, with the three guides, climbed the
great snow pyramid conspicuous from the whole of Suanetia, and
known to the natives and Bussians as Tetnuld. The aseeni cost us
thirteen hours' walking from a bivouac of 9000 feet. Though the cold
was not severe, and no one else suffered, one of the guides, owing to an
ill-fitting boot, was severely frostbitten. The views, particularly at
sunrise and from the top, were clear and glorious. The position of
Tetnuld, the only one of the great peaks standing out on a short
southern spur from the Caucasian watershed, is particularly favourable.
As we rose, the vast white curves of Elbruz lifted themselves Higher
and higher above the rock-peaks of the main chain. So, seen from a
distance, the dome of Bruneleschi dominates the Campanili of Florence,
or St. Paul's the City spires. At our feet lay the lowlands of Mingrelia
and the hollow of the Black Sea, and along the southern horizon
618
THE CAUCAStrS.
Btretcbed the mountaiua of Armenia and Asia Minori still streaked
with gnow. A single obaervation gave the height as 16,700 feet. The
peak to the north, climbed last year by Mr. Dent and Mi*. Donkin, the
President and Secretary of the Alpine Club, and estimated by them at
10,550, appeared to me at the time from 100 to 150 feet lower than
Tetnnld. Four higher summits were close at hand, Schkara and Djanga«
on the watershed (their heights I provisionally conjecture at 17,200 and
16,900 feet), and the Koshtantau 17,096 and Dychtau 16,925 feet of the
Russian maps, on a northern spnr.
On the following day, I caught up M. de D^chy, and oroeaed with
him a long disused pass (13,600 feet) over the Zanner glacier to the
valley of the Urban* The amount of snow and ice on these passes
exceeds that on any pass over the watershed of the Alps. We were in
both passages of the chain from ennrise to sunset on the glaciers. The
Aletsch Glacier alone cau compare with these vast icefields, but the
peaks which rise above it are but snow*hum mocks by the side of the
ciiBs and pinnacles of the central group of the Caucasus.
From Bezingi M. de Ddchy and 1 visited together the glaciers north
of Dychtau ; and I with F. Devouassoud and his nephew ascended a
peak north of the Mishirgi glacier and over 15,200 feet in height,
whence we had a noble, and from a topogTapher*s point of view most
inBtmctive panorama of the northern flank of the chaiD«
From Naltahik, on August 14th, M. de Dechy returned to Odessa,
while 1 went round to Tiflis and Kutaie, in order to send home the
disabled guide, and to procure an ititerpreter, which I was fortunate in
doing at the latter place. 1 then returned in cloudless weather to
Suanetia by the well-known Latpari Pass, closely examined the southern
glaciers of the great central group, and crossed through the forests and
giant flowers of the Zones Skali to Gcbi, ascending thence the panor&mio
peak of Schoda, 11,128 feet. This part of the countiy I had seen only
in bad weather in 1868. The glacier and forest sconeiy is in many
parts superb. It would be difficult to imagine a more sublime and
fantastic landscape than that of Usfakui, the highest community in
Suanetia, when bebiDd its flfty towers and two black castles the frozen
ridge of Schkara rises 10,000 feet overhead against an unclouded sky.
From the valley of the Scena, or western source of the Zenes Skali, the
five crests of the same great mountain recall one of the noblest views iu
the Alps, Monte Eosa from Yal Anzasca, and they are seen over virgin
forests and flelds of flowers which are high enough to conceal a laden
horse.
The amount of snow lying everywhere this year on the glaciers and
rock-peaks was altogether abnormal. The oldest inhabitant professed
never to have seen tbe like, and more tnistwortby informants, such as
Dr. von Kadde and Mr. Peacock, H.B.M.*s Vice-Consul at Batoum,
assured me that the winter had lasted two months longer than usual.
:
THE CAUCASUS. 619
This extraordinary snowfall, tlie unlucky accident to my guide, and the
want of an equally enthusiastic climbing companion, interfered to some
extent with my mountaineering projects. I believe all the great peaks
to be in ordinary seasons accessible, though some of them will probably
prove very difficult, and require all the faculties of experienced moun-
taineers for their conquest.
M. de Dfchy, during the three weeks we were together in the
mountains, added to his already large collection some eighty plates of
the scenery and people, and some measurements of heights. I have
amassed a quantity of rough sketches and topographical notes, which
will enable me to sketch with approximate accuracy the dimensions
and relations of the glaciers and the principal peaks of the great central
group of the Caucasus, which contains at least six summits higher than
Kazbek, and second only to Elbruz. Of four of these the^Bussian Staff
have as yet, unfortimately, published no measurements. The Eoshtantau
of my own writings, and of Mr. Grove, proves to be the Schkara of the
Bussian map, and is probably the second peak in the whole chain. My
*' Unknown Peak," Mr. Dent's Guluku, is the Eoshtantau of the Bussian
Staff. The glaciers of the central group on both sides of the chain are
generally beginning to advance after a period of retreat, resembling in
this those of the Western Alps.
Farther details I must reserve for a future occasion. But I wish to
lose no time in correcting a paragraph which has appeared in the press
during my absence to the effect that owing to a robbery committed on
our camp in Suanetia, and the loss or breakage of our baggage and
scientific instruments, my companion and I were obliged to abandon an
intended visit to Daghestan.
It is perfectly true that, under cover of a dark and wet night, a
thief from the village of Adish pilfered a revolver, some Steigeisen^ half
a sheep, and a little portmanteau containing M. de Dtehy's change of
clothes. The loss of his mountain wardrobe was, of course, an incon-
venience to my companion. But I was happily able to supply his most
urgent needs, at Naltshik we had a reserve of baggage, and Tiflia
is a city well provided with shops. The loss did not, in £eu^ in any
way affect our plans, and we were on the point of starting for the
Eastern Caucasus when M. de D^hy, as he informed me, received
news from home which made his return convenient. I went on to the
southern side of the Central Caucasus rather than to Basardjusi, on the
advice of Dr. von Badde, whom I was fortunate enough to find at Tiflis,
and who with his usual kindness placed his unrivalled knowledge of the
Caucasus unreservedly at my disposal
The sequel to our " robbery " — ^which M. de D6chy left the country
too soon to learn — must be shortly told. On receiving a report of our
loss, the Priestav (magistrate) resident at Betsho in Suanetia, came up
the valley with the small force of Cossacks at his disposal and summoned
020
THE CADCAStlS.
T^efore him tlie fifteen heads of families of the offending village. They
were ordered to reniam as hostages until the goods were returned. Ab it
waa the height of the haymaking season this measure was exceedingly
well-jndgetl ; and in the end it proved effectual. The stolen goo<3s, or the
greater part of them, have been recovered.
I have given some details as to this petty and speedily punished
theft, because the eraggerated report first circulated is likely to have, and
has even already had, a very miachievouB effect io spreading completely
faL^e impressions as to the difficulty or even danger of travel in the
Central Cancaaiifl, It would be a misfortune if intelligent tntvellors were
frightened off from a country which in my opinion is now ripe for the
better sort of long vacation tourists and Alpine Clubmen, Two parties
of foreign travellers, each with an Alpine guide, were in Suanetia when
I left it. I wandered about for live weeks on both sides of the central
chain, unarmed and often alone and by night» in perfect security, meeting
with nothing but pleasant greetings, and sometimes hearty handshaker
from old acquaintances of nineteen years ago. I found little difficulty,
with or without government papers, in obtaining provisions, horses, or
porters. Delay of course there is, as in all countries where time is no
object, and talk takes the place of newapai>er-reading as a daily occu-
pation* But once on the road, the natives are, as a rule, good travellers.
Adish, the scene of our solitary misadventure, is a remote hamlet, in
former days notorious for the vdldness of its people, and exactly the
spot where a last outbreak of old habits was to be looked for.
Of course, the above remarks apply only to the district I have lately
visited, the moat interesting to mountaineers. I am not generalising as
to the whole Caucasus, which as a political term extends with each
BuBsian annexation, and includes frontier districts which may become
insecure from time to time*
I may add that I and the Alpine guides passed twice through the
southern valleys in the latter half of August, and in exceptional heat,
without suffering from fever or any sort of indisposition, and that there
appears to be now little risk in embarking or lauding at Batoum, the
climate of which has been much improved by the extension of the town
and the construction of large docks.
The completion of a railway to INovorossisk, which as a port accessible
at all seasons is expected to supersede Taganrog, will open next year a
new route to the Caucasus, which can already be reached from England
in from a week to ten days viii Kieff, Charkoff, Kostoff; Odessa and
Batoum ; or the Orient Express and the southern shores of the Black
Sea.
( fl21 )
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
Ascent of the Owen Stanley Bange, New Guinea.— Mr. C. H. Hail-
mann informs us, by letter from Port Moresby, that he and Mr. G. Hunter
succeeded last July in reaching the summit of the main range of British
Now Guinea. They appear not to have reached the highest elevations,
but by a judicious choice of route, along the valleys of the Kemp Welsh
and Musgrave rivers, ascended to the saddle between Mounts Obree and
Brown, and crossed to the eastern or inland slopes of the range. They
started with twenty-seven friendly natives, but had some difficulty, in
commencing the ascent, with the hostile tribe who guard the great moun-
tain Paramagoro, which they believe to be the abode of the spirits of the
departed. Their hostility was eventually overcome by peaceable mea-
sures, and upwards of 200 of them followed the expedition in the ascent,
conciliated by the daily supply of meat of wild pigs which the travellers
obtained by means of their rifles, though the chief cause of the success
is attributed to the great experience of Mr. Hunter, who had for a long
time prepared for the expedition by making friends with the tribes,
several of whose languages he speaks fluently. The journey from Bigo,
a village near the coast at Eapatapa, and back, occupied only eleven
days, and it rained in torrents nearly all the time they were on the
mountains. The flora is described as magnificent in the extreme,
including palms of many species, tree-ferns, marantas, strelitzias, orchids,
and an endless variety of tropical flowering plants ; east of the range
the country is more open and richly grassed.
Captain Paiva de Andrada in Manica. — ^From a private letter of
Captain Paiva de Andrada we learn that this enterprising traveller has
recently performed several journeys in the countries to the south of
the Zambezi. Captain de Andrada does not aspire to rank as an
" explorer*' ; but he has nevertheless visited many districts of which wo
know next to nothing, and lays down his routes upon a map drawn on
a scale of 1 : 46,000. He points out that the small sketch in the ' Pro-
ceedings ' (1886, p. 508) is in many respects superior to the large map
by Moraes Pinto published in the * Journal of the Manchester Geo-
graphical Society.* Both have been superseded by the 'Carta do
Districto de Manica ' by A. A. d'Oliveira of the * Commissfto de Carto-
graphia,' but this recent map, too, already needs rectifications in several
respects. When Gungunyana, the successor of Umzila, sent an army to the
vicinity of Inhambane, for the purpose of punishing the chiefs who had
renounced their allegiance to him, Captain de Andrada was staying at
the village of the Portuguese resident on the Musurise (Uniswelise) in
the vicinity of the chiefs kraal. Starting from Chiloane he had suc-
cessively crossed the swampy maritime zone, the open grass plains of
Mashanga, and the woody region of Madanda, where rubber abounded.
Hm farihest prist wrjaOi wm HMonpTs Tilkge (lat. W 57 S.^ nnr
whidi hft rMUd tiie gimTe of d^iinn Flupwrn-W jbnntB. On ^k
proadiiog tbe Mnengeze tlie eomitrj rises into hilk, and the distriei of
Ziaihtanho is monntaixioiiib After s Tint to the confaence of the Lmdi
with the SaTe, Captain de AnilnMia Feiomed to the cout, toodung the
Ban in two places, in Ut. 3(f 14' S^ long. 33^ 41' £^ and in laL 19^ sr
ar &, long, 34^ 14' K The Bini is naTigaUe np to the month of tlie
Lonte. From Sofala Captain de Andrada started &r the month of the
Pnngaeyand he asccaidcd that river dnring ten days in three ''Bertan"
boats and a dng-ont, nntil near the Injamisage hills (in laL 19^, long.
34*^ 1^ mtisifs of rocks render its farther narigation impoasiUe. The
hanks of the Pnngne axe described as being exceedingly lertiley and
well suited for plantations, and the writer's imagination pictnres a
ftmrishing town qiringing np at its month, which shall become the
outlet of a well-cnltiTated oonntrj, and of prodnctire mining districts
in the interior. From Kakaka's riUage, near the rapods, the writer
proceeded to Gonreia^ the capital of Kanica, where he arrired on April
10tlL He started again on April 17ih for Bnpire Qn whidi axe the
Emperor William Goldfields), paasing through Shitindire, wbidi is not
a swamp, as shown on Pinto's map, but a beautiful upland, in idiich
the Injandue and the Yunduri hare their sources. Psasing thence
throogh Tana and Tumbara, and crossing the EaTieee near its month
(170^ 15' 8.), Bopire was reached on April dOih. Starting thence on
llaj 2nd the writer reached the Zambea above the Kebrabaasa rapids on
Ifaj 13th« On Kay 15th he left dukora on his return journey, spent
the night of the 20th at Tete, travelled thence back to Bupire by a new
route, and once more readied his headquarters at Gouveia on June 28rd.
It will thus be seen that Captain de Andrada has passed through
extensive regions hitherto but very inadequately shown upon our mape.
Antarctie Exploration. — An important letter has been addressed to
Admiral Sir Erasmus Ommanney by the Agent-General for IHctoria,
Sir Graham Berry. Sir Graham states that having, in accordance with
instructions from his Government, asked Her Majesty's Government if
they would contribute the sum of 50002. towards an antarctic expedition,
provided the Australian Colonies agreed to contribute a rimilar sum, he
has received a letter from the Colonial Office stating that the subject is
** now under the consideration of Her Majesty's Government." The letter
is dated Sept. 2nd, but unfortunately did not reach Sir Erasmus uatOi
after the meeting of the British Association, before the Antaictio
mittee of which Sir Graham suggested the subject might be
with a view to bring the influence of the Association to bear Oft
Government in support of the grant. In the event of a &nm
answer being received Sir Graham was instructed to communioaii i
Sir Allen Young with the view of ascertaining upon what tOBB
would take command of the proposed expedition. It is m. fllf
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
62a
proposal could not have been brought before tbe Britisli Association, but
we hope it is not too late for the important enbject to be taken np io
influential quarters. So favourable an opportunity for the resumption
of Antarctic explomtion shonhl not be neglected.
Kew Route to Timbuktu. — M. George Angeli, who has recently
returned from a jonrnej of exploration in the Wefitem Sahara, has
brought forward a scheme of a railway direct fromi Capo Juby on the
West Coast, just opiioaite to the Canary Islands, through the Sahara to
Timbuktu and the Upper Niger, He states that he has received oon-
cessions from native chiefs both in the Sahara and Sudan. The matter
only interests us from the geographical point of view. There are two
ways now of getting to Timbuktu ; one from the French colony on the
Senegal, the other from Algeria, or Tunisia, or Tripolitana, across the
Sahara, and through the territory of the Tuwarog. M, Angeli main-
tains that his line is perfectl}" flat, that there are supplies of water, and
a sparse, but not hostile population. No doubt this is the line which
will eventually be followed^ but the times are not propitious. It was in
this neighbourhood that Mr. Donald Mackenzie proposed to let the
w^aters of the Atlantic into a great depression of the Sahara, and thus
form a great navigablo lake. Timbuktu, so long inaccessible, will
probably be got at in this or the next generation.
The Physical Features of Fernando Po.^Horr Oscar Baumann, a
member of Br* Lenz* recent expedition to Eiiuatorial Africa, contributes
to tho current part of PetermannV * MitteilungenV an interesting
sketch of the physical geography of the island of Femando Po. The
volcanic group of which the island is a member, forms a line ruuning
south-west from tho Cameroons, and may be regarded as the result of
an eruptive fissure^ which on the one side extends from the Cameroons to
the Isle of Anno Bon, and perhaps further, and on the other appears to
find in the Rumbi mountains a continuation into the heart of Africa.
Tho northem half of the island is covered almost entirely by the huge
volcanic peak of O-Wassa (Clarence Peak), with its summit situated in
the centre. Towards the north and north-east the mountain gently
slopes to a precipitous rocky coast. On the west and north-west its
steep sides are cut by deeply eroded gorges with rocky walls, which
end in a narrow belt of flat country rising abruptly frctr^-. *^-^ '^' >ast. On
its eastern side the upper slopes of the moimfcaiii are ous and <
wooded, extending down to a ': ' ' * t
1300 feet above th© sftft-lnv.d, wT.;
to the coasts The
plateau of B«toi« wl
mountains (al
system of ih6 1
in conseqneiic
624
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
the different atitboritie« he takes its height to he 9350 feet The alti-
tude shown on the Admiralty charts ia 10,030 feet* He determioed, by
his own observations, about fifty altitudes in different parta of the
island. The volcano may be regarded as extinct, the fire and clouds of
smoke seen at times on the summit being easily explained by the annual
burning of the grass. The crater on the top of the mountain is 515 feet
in depth, and is enclosed by grey disintegrated walls of basolL On
the thickly wooded and almost impassable slopes there are m&ny
subsidiary craters, with which in a certain sense the remarkable crater
niin of the Bay of Santa Isabel may be said to stand in connec-
tion. The east and west coasts of the island present a strong contrast.
The basaltic rock of the former is being continually crumbled and
carried away by the sea, while along the latter the land is gaining on
the sea. Here the formation of suooessive sandbanks in front of the
mouths of the more important watercourses has cut off lagoons of
brackish water, wliich are first of all covered by mangroves and
shrubs, and then very soon by marshy tropical woods. On the west
coast the river mouths are turned to the left, while on the east
they appear to be directed to the rigbt,^ — The physical geography
of the southern half of the island is determined by the mountain
range of the ** Cordillera of Fernando Po/* wliich in two chains con-
nected by a pass ruTis practically east and west* These chains culminate
in several summits which have a volcanic character only on account of
their basaltic composition. In the south of the island, and apparently
quite intlependent of the Cordillera, there rises a lofty volcanic mass.
On the top of one cone-shaped peak, precipitous on all sides, there
extends a flat basiu surrounded by a circle of hills. This the author
supposes to be the remains of a large crater. It is a noteworthy fact
that the aborigines of the island, the Bubo, choBO this basin as the site
of their largest and most important town, Bial»ba, which is held in great
respect as Moka'a village. The hill range running parallel to the south-
east coast, and on which the villages of Kutari and Globe Riabba are
situated, may perhaps be considcTed as the remains of a wall of the
Riabba crater. The mountains in the south for the most part present
an alm*jat perpendicular slope to the sea, at the foot of which there is
in Borne places nothing but a huge barrier of volcanic rocks heaped
together, upon which the foaming surf beats furiously* On the east
coast, however, there is frequently a stretch of sandy beach between
the sea and the mountain front. Like all volcanic islands in the tropics,
Fernando Po is well watered. From all the mountain slopes numerous
streams of clear foiTuginous water precipitate themselves in cascades
into the depths below. But the relative scarcity of water on the east
coast, as compared with the west, is striking. The principal river of the
island is the Uapa or Shark river, which rising in a small lake on the
southern slopes of the oordillera, flows south ; it is navigable for some
I
GEOQRAPHIGAL KOTES. 625
distanoe for a canoe. The rivers eeldom rise at a height of more, than
2000 feet. As an example of vallej formation in this voloanic district,
the author describes the valley of the Amesuwa in the sonth of the
island. The river flows in a narrow gorge and forms a snocession of
waterfalls and pools, the latter being dammed up by banks of stones.
The river is generally dry in its upper course, but it frequently happens
after heavy rains that the pools above mentioned are swollen and over-
flow, forming a strong current. In a oross section the valley in many
places shows an elevation in the centre of the river-bed ; here the sides
of the ravine are hollowed into caves by the underwash of the stream. —
An excellent map embodying the results of the writer's three months'
exploration of the island is published with the paper.
The Attak Oasis and Trans-Caspian Deserts. — An admirable paper
on the physical geography of this region appears in Petermann's
* Mitteilungen * (No. 8), by M. A. Eonschin, the geologist who accom-
panied Dr. Badde on bis recent expedition. Speaking of the oases of
Attak, the writer says, "The mountainous part of Transcaspia is
bounded on the west (i. e. towards the Caspian), north, and more par-
ticularly on the east, by an interminable sand and salt desert, which is
rapidly advancing in the direction of the mountains. The loam of the
mountain face being easily disintegrated and washed down by the
action of the rain and snow, a zone of alluvial soil, in many places
20 miles broad, has been formed along the foot of the heights. This
belt, where suflSciently irrigated by mountain streams, gives rise to the
oases of Transcaspia. The recent * loess,' which covers the plain still
further increases the fertility of the soil." A tract of country of this
nature extends along the north of the mountain range from Kizil-Arvat
to Sarakhs, a distance of over 300 miles, equalling in area the cultivated
part of the Khiva oasis. The contrast between the two districts is,
however, very striking. While the oasis of Ehiva is covered everywhere
with luxuriant shady orchards and rows of slender poplars enclosing
extensive cotton-fields, the Attak region is for the most part a salt
desert-waste, clothed with a sparse vegetation, and cultivated only in
such places as Geok tepe, Askabad, Artyk, and Eaaka, which scarcely
seem to bi-eak the desolate uniformity of the remaining nine-tenths of
the country. The chief reason for this is the lack of running water in
the latter region. The streams flowing from the mountains into this
belt of country number only twenty-six, and the volume of water thus
discharged is calculated to be not more than 75 cubic metres per second,
or about a tenth part of the quantity required. On the other hand, the
Amu Daria pours water into the oasis of Ehiva at the rate of 2800 cubic
metres per second. The relative scarcity of water in the Transcaspian
region may be explained on the following grounds :— (1) the small
amount of atmospheric precipitation, (2) the narrow area and thin
clothing of vegetation, coihbined with the unimportant absolute height
626
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES,
and Bteep slope of tlie moimtaios whicla give rise to the majority of the
wateroonraes. Tlie oaees of Tejend and Merv poesesa a much greater
wealth of water than those of Attak, being fed by the Tejend and
Murghalv rivers, which draw their supply from the snow-clad snminits
of the ParopamisuB and Hindu Kush. — With regard to the Trans-
Caspian deserts, M* Eonschin gives a mass of valuable information. It
is impossible for us to do more than indicate some of the cooclnsionfl at
which he arrives. He regards the great Eara-Kum desert as originally
having formed part of the old Aralo-Caspian basin» the marly loamy bed
of the latter having by the action of air-cnrrenta been transformed into
the sandy desert. He found between Zulfigar and Ful-i-Khatnn im-
portant tracer of the earlier action of the sea in washing away the
sedimentary strata of tho hills. Regarding the dunes proper as belonging
only to the sea-coast, he divides the typical sand- hi Us of Turkomania
into two classes : (1) the bare hills of recent formation and relatively
unimportant dimensions, which are difltinguished by their sickle-shaped
form and extraordinary mobility ; (2) those of greater antiquity and
larger dimensions, characterised by irregular outline and rendered
perfectly stable by plant growth. The takyrs and other physical
features of the desert are also described in detail. That the western
part of the Kara-kiim and all the south-east coast of the Caapian waa at
a comparatively retent period under the waves of the sea is proved hy
the numerous specimens of the Aralo-Caspian mollusk fauna found in
the sand. In the centre of the Kara-kum the takyrs and depressions
have lost their remains of marine fauna^ and the Band-hills have become
more stable, proving this part of the desert to he older than the west.
The eastern portion, which is of still greater antiquity, is the region of
the " ungusses,'* or desiccated lakes, gulfs, (fee. The principal eeries of
those, known as the Charjui-daria, Charjui-ungus, and Eelif-usboi,
intersects the Eara-kum steppe from north-west to south-east. M.
Eonechin proves this to he only an ancient shore-line of the Caspian,
and not, as formerly supposed, an old bed of the Amu-Daria. Upon
this ancient shore-line of the Caspian he dwells at some length,
showing how it corresponds with the contour-line of the sand-banks of
the Eara-kum. He then passes on to a description of the Sara-Eamysh
basin and compares it with that of the Kara-kum. The former, when
filled with water, was io connection with the Aral by means of the Gulf
of Abougir and with the , Caspian by the Balkan Gulf, and into the
united budn the AmU'Daiia flowed from the south-east. The final
connection between the Aral and the Caspian was by means of the
depression of the western Ueboi extending along the Ust-Urt and the
Great Balkan. After the ruin of the more pronounced basin there still
remained a series of coast lakes parallel to the shore- line of the Ust-Urt.
Through these lakes the waters of the Aralo-Sara Kamysh basin drained
into the Caspian in a slowly moving str^aam. That the Usboi formed
J
OEOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 627
this final communication between the Aral and Caspian is farther proved
by the discovery of important traces of the action of marine ice in this
line of depression. In conclusion, M. Konschin expresses his opinion
that the conversion of the low-lying plain of Turkomania from a sea
bfisin into a sandy desert is due to (1) the influence of the polar winds,
(2) the upheaval of the ground. With regard to the former cause, the
action of the prevailing north and north-east winds in this region is
well known ; they may be regarded as great pumping works extracting
the moisture from the soil and carrying it away to the west. He takes
the following to be evidences of an upheaval : — (1) The high altitude of
the most recent pliocene strata in the ravines of the Kioren Dagh;
(2) the hook shape of the peninsulas of Krasnovodsk, Darshe, and of the
island of Cheleken ; (3) the narrow and extraordinarily long coast-lakes
which line the shore of the Caspian between Khiva Bay and Chikishliar
Bay ; (4) the numerous narrow lagoon-beds running parallel to the
oasis of Akal-tekke and the Kioren and Kopet Dagh ranges; (5) the
peculiarity of the mouths of the Atrek and Gurgan rivers, with their
marshy tracts and continually changing channels; (6) the numerous
remains of marine organisms and traces of the action of the sea at
elevations considerably higher than the present sea-level.
The Upper Hawash. — An Italian traveller, Dr. Traversi, made during
the summer of last year an excursion to the Suai Lake and the upper
course of the Hawash. He accompanied the expedition despatched by
King Menilek of Shoa against the Arussi Galla. Although he only
reached the north shore of the lake, he ascertained by his route that
there is no discharge from the lake to the Hawash. The river Maki,
rising in the Gurage hills, flows westwards into the northern end of the
lake, where the Catara, coming from the east, also discharges* According
to the natives, the lake has an outlet in the south called the Suxuki,
which flows into a second lake named Hogga. From the high ground
to the west of the lakes the traveller was able to see a third and more
important lake further south, which bears the name of Lake Lamina.
The sketches and information obtained by Dr. Traversi have been em-
bodied in a map by Professor Delia Yedova, from which it may be seen
that Cecchi's representation of all the country to the south of the Upper
Hawash needs considerable alteration.
No. X.— Oct. 1887.] 2 t
628 PROCEEDINGS OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL SECHON
PEOCEEDINGS OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL SECTION
OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION.
MANCHESTER MEETING, 1887.
The Committee of the Geographical Section was constituted as follows : —
President. — Colonel Sir Charles Warren, b.e., o.c.m.g., p.b.s., f.r.g.8.
Vice-Pbesidbnts. — H. W. Bates, r.B.8.; Henry Lee (Chairman of the Manchester
Geographical Society) ; Admiral Sir Erasmus Ommanney, o.b., f.b.s. ; General Sir
H. E. L. Thuillier, b.a., f.b.8. ; General J. T. Walker, b.e., f.b-s. ; Colonel Sir
Charles W. Wilson, b.e., k.c.b., f.b.s.
Secrbtabies.— Rev. L. C. Casartelli, m.a., ph.d. ; J. S. Keltie ; H. J. Mactinder,
M.A. ; E. G. Ravenstein (Recorder),
Committee. — E. van Eetveldo (Chief of the Foreign Department of the In-
dependent Congo State) ; Dr. Ginsburg ; Colonel Holdich, b.e. ; J. Arthur Hutton
(of Manchester) ; Prof. Libbey (of Princeton, New Jersey) ; Hugh R. Mill, D.8C. ;
E. Delmar Morgan; Josiah Pierce, jun. (of the United States Geological and
Geographical Survey) ; Sir Rawson W. Rawson, k.c.m.o. ; Trelawney W. Saunders ;
Eli Sowerbutts (Secretary of the Manchester Geographical Society) ; Rev. S.
Alford Steinthal (of Manchester) ; Rev. Canon Tristram, d.d., f.b.s. ; Coutts Trotter ;
Sir Harry Verney, Bart. ; Captain Verney, b.n. ; Rev. Thomas Wakefield ; Prof.
A. W. Ward (Vice-Chancellor of the Victoria University) ; Cope Whitehouse, m.a. ;
Colonel Sir Francis de Winton, k.c.m.o ; Dr. Ludwig H. Wolf (Staff-Surgeon, Royal
Saxon Army Corps).
Delegate. — T. Gushing (Croydon Microscopical and Natural History Society).
The meetings of the Section took place in the Anatomy Room of the
School of Ai-ts, a lofty apartment, seating about 300 auditors. The
meetings were largely attended, and occasionally the room was crowded
to its fullest capacity. The papers on geographical education, and on
the Ordnance Survey, and on the Congo, excited perhaps most interest,
and led to lively discussions, which had to he curtailed owing to the
want of time. Amongst the distinguished foreigners present were
M. E. van Eetvelde and Lieutenant Le Marinel, hoth deputed hy the
King of the Belgians to represent the Congo State.
Altogether thirty-four papers were read and three Reports of Com-
mittees were presented, including fourteen on Africa, four on Asia, two
on America, one on Australia, one on the Antarctic regions, five on geo-
graphical education, four on cartography, and six of a miscellaneous
nature.
On Monday, Sir Francis de Winton delivered a lecture on " Explora-
tions in Central Africa/' in the Free Trade Hall, which attracted a very-
large audience. Earlier on the same day. Professor Lihhey, a member
of the United States Alaska Exploring Expedition, lectured, in another
place, on the Indians and the scenery of South-eastern Alaska.
OP THE BRITISH ASSOCTATION. 629
Thursday, September let.
The Fbesident opened the Section with the following address : —
My predecessors in former years have used their discretion in the opening address
either to generalise on the science of geography or to lay stress npon those particular
subjects to which they considered it desirable to call attention. I propose on this
occasion to refer to matters which have long been of importance to those who are
desirous of the spread of the knowledge of geography, and in which I trust the
public generally are acquiring an interest. I refer to the teaching of geography in
our schools and the economy and advantage to the State which would result from a
more perfect and skilful system of instruction.
The term geography covers a very wide area, and while limiting its nse to-day
to the more restricted sense generally accorded to it in modem times, I must pro-
test against its being applied only to a dry digest of names of places and record of
statistics, rendering it a bugbear in the instruction of youth instead of allowing it
to cover all those interesting and engrossing subjects which truly belong to it, and
without the knowledge of which the mind of youth cannot be trained and expanded
in the direction to which the science tends.
As the geographer Strabo points out, our science embraces astronomy, natural
history, and is closely connect^ with meteorology and geometry, the arts, history,
and fable; but since his day so much progress has been made in the arts and
sciences that the branches of geography have become specialities to be taught
separately, and the old root geography has been almost laid aside and treated with
contempt, though it is only by a thorough acquaintance with it, the knowledge of
common things, that the branches which depend upon it can be thoroughly com-
prehended. We may take geography, then, to embrace all that knowledge of
common things connected with the surface of the earth, including the seas and the
atmosphere, which it -is necessary for every human being to be acquainted with in
order that progress in other knowledge may be acquired and acquaintance with the
world be made which will fit man for life in any capacity, whether as occupying
the highest position even to the most humble. Indeed, it is difficult to say in what
capacity in life this knowledge is most required. No man can do practical work
without it, and to the theorist it is absolutely essential. . . .
It should be a matter of great interest to those who instruct in geography to
study its gradual development from the earliest data and to watch the progress it
has made. And this is not a matter of very great difficulty, for as geography is the
knowledge of common things, and the ancients were more experienced observers
than ever we may hope to be, the earliest records we possess are full of geographical
accounts. In the books of Moses, three thousand years ago, we obtain our first
recorded view of the cosmogony of the ancients, at which time the world is supposed
to be a fiat disc with water surrounding the land, and this idea pervades later books,
and is dwelt upon in the Psalms of David. Homer also held a similar view, and to
him is accorded by Strabo the honour of being the founder of geographical science,
because he excelled in the sublimity of his poetry and his experience of social life ;
and a reason why he excelled is carefiQly related. He could not have accomplished
it had he not exerted himself to become not only acquainted with historical facts,
but also with the various regions of the inhabited land and sea, some intimately,
others in a more general manner. '* For otherwise he would not have reached the
utmost limits of the earth, tmversing it in his imagination.** Herodotus, to whom
we are indebted for furnishing us with the earliest known system of geography,
also held the same view concerning the earth ; but it is worthy of remark that he
speaks in his day (450 b.o.) of there being another view, as to the world being round,
2 T 2
6S0
PROCEEDINGS OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL SECTION
wbJcli lie considers to bo cxcee^imgly ridiculous, and tbereforc it may be surmised
tliat evcQ at tliat tarly period tbere were mindij tliat bad arrive<l generally at the
conclusion wliick now obtains as to the ehapo of tbo world. . . .
When we come, however, to consider the progress of di^ooveries on the sur&ce
of the earth itself, the strides in latter years appear to be enormous, but yet wo
must not forget that there is aa ebb and flow constantly going on. Discoveries are
made and lost sight of, and again are brought forward as new. Sometimes, after an
account of diacoreries has been published, a second account differs moat materially
from the lirst, and the public have to wait for further examiQation. Cases have
occurred, as in the early Portugnes© discoveries in Central x\frica, in which the plans
and accounts liave been laid on one side and forgotten, and the territories rediscovered
and Biirveyod years afterwards. Again, sketches of new countries liave been made,
and the surveyor has omitted to show what is conjecture and what is from actual
observation, and his plana throughout bare been discredited. In some cases these
mistakes havo retarded discovery, in some they have directly led up to it — as, for
example, in the gigantic geographical error in p^laclnj* on the globes of the fiftoenth
century the eastern extremity of Asia no less than 150 degrees longitude too far east,
which ]}romptecl Columbus to endeavour to reach A^ia from the west, and thus led
to his discovery of America. . . *
What we require, however, is precise and accurate information of the earth's
surface, however it may be obtained, and to train the minds of our youth in the
powers of observation sufficient to enable them to obtain this information ; and if
in so doing our countrymen continue to be stimidated to deeds of daring, to enter-
prise aud adventures, to self-denial and hardships, it will assist in preserving th«
manhood of our country, which is more and more endangered year by year in con-
sequence of our endeavour to keep peace within our borders and to stave oflf strife
with our neighbouris.
Probably many of us here to-day of mature age, on looking back at our early
acquaintance with geography, will recollect liUle but a confu!?ed list of proper
names and statistics, learnt by rote, and otdy im|)erfectly carried in the mind, so
that only a few portions stand out still visible, and those probably connected with
pleasurable and, in some cases, painful accessories ; perhaps those particular lessons
which we may have assisted some school friend to muster still remain as clear as
ever ; or, again, those learnt under the terror of the rod.
Taking schools and subjects nil round, nothing probably has ever been worse
taught than geography was only a few years ago, and very little progress towanis
a good system has even yet been introduced into higher class schools, though in the
schools of the people an effort has been made to render the subject more palatable
and instructive.
The faults, however, of the system hitherto in use are now fully recognised, and
objectious are general that the study has been made too piaiuful .1 grind and that the
whole process has been of too severe a character. If this were the only fault to be
found in the old method, I for one would bo inclined to adhere to it, assured, as I
am, that no training of the mind can take place without great denial and sacrifice in
learning self-control. But the real question is as to the practical results of the old
system. Are they of such a character with all or the majority of minds (of aU
classes and conditions) that they have become stored, with useful knowledge and at
the same time trained to take a ^ileajure in iocrejislog it in the future? If the
res\ilts are short of this we aiunot but pronouaco the old system to be a failure, as
the knowledge of geography is the knowledge of common tbingg insepftrably con-
nected with the life of each one of us, and there is no better medium through which
the mind can be trained to be always in a condition for acquiring knowledge without
making too great an eSfort.
OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION. 631
Unfortunately for the prospects of introducing a complete and perfect system of
teaching geography (suitable to most minds), the reaction that has set in recently is
likely to lead to evil results, if not carefully curbed. It seems now to be desired to
promote the acquirement of knowledge at the earliest age without effort and without
hard work ; but this appears to be directed towards alleviating the toils of the
instructor as much as the instructed, and we have now, as a result, children taught
common things without any efifort to strengthen their memories, and then a system
of cramming introduced at a later period, when the memory has ceased to be capable
of responding to the efiforts made, and consequently all the information crammed in
is dropped again in a few months. . . .
It seems to me that the remedy recently adopted is worse than the disease it was
to eradicate, and that however injurious it was to attempt to store the mind with
mere names, yet the memory was trained | thereby to retain something definite;
and it is still worse to attempt to store the mind with mere ideas without the
connection of names, and leave the memory to rust.
There is obviously a middle course which may rid us of the errors of the past
without leading us into still greater difiSculties. And if we keep the object to be
gained always in view we cannot fail to take a direct line. We want first to lead
the memory to constant exertion of such a nature that it grows stronger day by day,
but is not overstrained or wearied ; at the same time it must be stored with useful
facts, which may be. quite above the capacity of the mind to comprehend at the
time, but which will be required all through life : this can readily be done by means
of verses or rhymes set to simple airs and committed to memory by song. There
are facts of the greatest importance which can be learnt in this manner with very
little effort, and which, if not fixed in the mind at a very early age, the want of
them may be felt throughout life.
As, for example, the directions in which latitude and longitude are reckoned, in
which the sun rises and sets, the relations of the east and west respectively to the
north and south, and many other matters which appear to be of a trivial character,
but which require to be as rigidly committed to memory by rote as does the
multiplication table.
These very small matters are the foundations of everything we require to know,
and if we do not have these foundations firmly and securely fixed, we will be the
sufferers all our lives. Too much attention cannot be paid to them, as it is the
early lessons which remain most clearly fixed in our minds. . . .
Children have a remarkable capacity for making pictures for their mind's eye of
everything they think of, which is dulled gradually as books are taken into use ;
this faculty, if made right use of, may be developed, and will greatly assist the
study of geography, and will lead to a ** picture memory," which will be most useful
in regard to maps, drawing, and spelling. . . . When highly developed, we find it
employed by novelists, who can bring their characters up before them and picture
them enacting their parts, and also by artists, who sometimes lose the power of
discriminating between that which they actually see and that which their picture
memories call up.
Although it seems to me absolutely essential to cultivate and develope the
memory, this is by no means all that is necessary. At the same time must be
taught the proper use of the powers of observation with reference to nature, which
in towns is so difficult a matter, placing the bulk of our population at so great a
disadvantage. One of the first points neglected by teachers generally is to explain
to children what the object or result of the lesson is to be. In most minds it is very
difficult to pay real attention unless it is known what is to be the general drift of
the conversation, for otherwise the mind will be directed to points quite irreleyant
632
PROCEEDLNGS OF THX GEOGRAPHICAL SECTION
CliiMren should be^^first told in a few words tlie line tbe lesson ia going to take ;
this will gnsitly tend to secure the attisntion of what am termud dull children, who
often, if properly treateii, would turn out the cleverest, but who cannot grasp a
subject until tliey seu it from all sides, and know it thoroughlyi while the ** clever
children " are satisfied with a view of one side only. • • .
It must be recollected that from tlio moment geography is taught, children will
make ma|js or pictures in their mind's eye, whether they are actually presented
to them or not*
For example, if a house or a garden is mentioned, both the teacher and the ohild
must view it from the outside and from a certain distance, for it is impracticable for
moat minds to look all round and behind at oqo time. To have a full view of what
is mentioned it is necessary to get outside and beyond it. Children will differ
among themselves in their method of viewing what is gpoken of, but the teacher
can readily ascertain what mental pictures they have formed, and can make use of
this laculty in the first use of maps. It is remarkable how readily ^uneducated
natives in nncivilised cotintries can understand plans from their constant obseira-
tion of nature. , , .
It 13 of vital importance that children in our island, who cannot under ordinary
circumstances have snfBcient opi>ortunities for using, cultivating, and developing
their powers of obeervation to any purpose, should have the use of maps put before
them in such a manner that they will not bo led into error. . . .
It is very common for children to mistake east for west, north for aoiitb, and
even to make still more ridiculous errors, which appear on reflection to be quito
impossible. Yet these errors remain oft^n unobserved until the youth is eighteen or
nineteen years old, when he begins to think the matter out for himself, from finding
that he k contiuually making absurd mistakes, but then it is too late for him to do
more than know that he is liable to the error, for on an emergency it will crop up
in spite of himself. . * .
It seems very desirable that the first maps presented to a child, viz. those of the
school grounds and the parish^ should be placet! on the floor and properly oriented ;
this will go far to fix the correct positions of east and west, nortli and south, and will
prevent the idea of the nortli necessarily being tip and the south damn. It is to be
observed that if a child looks up to a map it is almost equivalent to looking at the
map when lying on the back, in which case the east and west are i n verted. The motion
of the sun over the map might with advantage be pointed out at various times of the
day, and if the position of the rays of the sun on the floor when on the meridian
could 1)6 shown ench day ivhen practicable on the line drawn north and south, it
would do much to fijt In the mind the fact that the sun is iu the meridian at
apparent noon each day. A sundial should also be available in every school-yard to
which children may have access. • . .
Too much detail should not be crammed into the early lessons ; a good firm
fonndatiou is required, something to start upon before the great test of faith is made
in teaching, viz. tliat the world is round.
Children should be taught, as far as is practicable, to make this discovery for
themnelves, and many will arrive at it one way or another, or think they do so,
which is equally important. It is far better they should grasp truths themselves
than have them drummed into them ; it gives them confidence in tlieir own deduc-
tions, and leads to further observation of nature. In introducing the world as round,
a hluckboitrd globe should be used, abotit three feet in diameter, on which the con-
tinents are outlined boldly in red, with some meridians and parallels of latitude ia
white. It would be well if a portion of tlda globe could be taken to pieces to show
how a horizontal suodial for the particular latitude is constructed, and for other
OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION. 633
matters of interest. It is material to show that the earth revolves on a fixed axis
from day to day, and in one direction. All the great difficulties in learning geography
are at the threshold of the science for those who have not observed nature ; the more
abstruse subjects are comparatively easy to teach.
The first difficulty common to all is that regarding latitude and longitude, regard-
ing which there are so many elements of error. It is so difficult for the child to
recollect what term means length and which breadth, and then to get the restive
imagination to grasp the fact that the length is sideways and not up and down, as it
apparently should be ; for even if the earth is shown to be an oblate spheroid^ there
is nothing to lead a child to see that there is a greater circumference round the
equator than romid the poles, and the time has not arrived to perplex the child with
the views of the ancients on the subject. • • . The only practicable method is to put the
facts of the case into amusing verse, and commit it to the memory by song. At
this stage, also, some easy standards of measurement put into verse and to music
should be learnt by rote, to enable the child readily to recollect the relative measure-
ments of the earth, sun, and moon, and the radii of their orbits and times of progres-
sion. • • •
Once the preliminary difficulties are over, and the power of observation and con-
templation is acquired, even in a small degree, the study of geography becomes but
a simple matter, for it is the learning of common things, matters of everyday life,
which we may, if in the country, acquire to a partial extent of our own experience ;
but though so simple, it requires continuous application and attention.
In each calling or trade a man may become an experienced geographer to a limited
degree. The pilot, for example, is an expert in the geography of the seas he works
in, for he not only knows the ports, the coast-lines, and the sunken rocks and sand-
banks, but he also knows the tides, the winds, he studies the clouds and the currents,
and has an intimate knowledge of the contours of the shallows ; moreover, he knows
the shipping of various countries, the merchandise they carry, and the produce shipped
from each port. In the same manner, by hunting, shooting, fishing, bicycling, birds-
nesting, &c., we acquire a knowledge of natural history and topography which aid
us most materially in the study of geography, and which in a limited degree is the
study of geography. • . .
Even in large towns it is practicable to learn lessons in geography from actual
experience and observation, for if the markets and railway produce are examined, it
can soon be ascertained from whence the articles come and from what ports, and with
careful attention most valuable lessons in political economy can be gained.
The knowledge of geography thus, even in its] restricted sense, embraces the life
of an Englishman of every class and occupation, and its study is of the greatest
importance to every man who has an occupation ; it is singular that so little com-
paratively is thought of cultivating the science, and how small interest the State has
hitherto taken in fostering this class of education.
But while the Board and other schools for the people are gradually taking up
the work and endeavourtng to work out a good system of education, it is mortifying
to find how Utile progress has been made in the higher class schools where such
heavy fees uro charged ; and the question arises whether in these schools the teachers
apby really understand the subject they teach, and would pass an examina-
t ^ Govemmcnt inspects.
^^Hb«te.u^«. -.!« |g g|0 p,j^ iQ ii^Q greatest disadvantage with
« son 'of a labourer will hear the price of
"d, BO also with the son of a mechanic and
iphy on the subjects with which the
Munm learn to exercise his observa-
634
PROCEEDINGS OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL SECTION
tion J but the son of wealthy parents is too often carefully kept from hearing all
that mi^ht teach him geography, and he is seldom obliged to exert htmaelf to uae
liis observation in any esscnlial matters of daily life ; this is reserved for the play-
ground, where nothing of real importance is at stake, and must have the roost
deleterious and detrimental effect on many young minds, and naturally results in so
large a proportion hecoming useless for any occnpation.
It is apparent that, as education throughout the country progresses, the sons of
the wealthy classes, if they are to compete Buccesafully with others, must have some
better mental training than they obtain at present^ otherwise they will in a few years
be distanced by the sons of the labourers, artisans, and shopkeepers. What an
Englishman asks for is a fair field and no favour, and it seems hard upon a parent
who struggles through life to make money to be enabled to give his children the best
and most expensive education the country aflbrdSp that with it he must risk a
ti-aining of the mind which is inferior to that in the less expensive schools of the
l>eople. As we are behind the Continental States and our colonies in so many of
our institutions and land laws, so we are behind them in our training of the mind
in our upper-class schools; by neglectiog by artificial means to develop tbg power
of observation among boys, who until they arc put out in the world are never
accustomed to do anything that will tend directly to any practical and useful result,
we are putting them to the greatest disadvantage, and handicapping them in the
race of life,
We omit to train the memory in early years, to lay a foundation of facts in the
mind, and to develop any power of observation; we carefully prevent their doing
anything useful > and bring them up in a moral atmospbere in which the idea of
aiiything hut amusement is practically excluded, and then in later years we attempt
to adjust all our errors by cramming, when the memory is incapable of being
crammed, and the mind has ceased to desire to acquire information ; the result is
that so many youuf; men are deliberately rendered unfit for work in life, aud those
who have sufRcient courage and energy to look their proi^j^ecta in the face find the
enormous disadvantages to which their teacliing has subjected them, and luee
precious years in unlearning and learning a^ain.
More unfortunately still, the best and choicest of our minds cannot be crammed ;
and thus drop out at our examinations many minds of the class that for practical
purjxjses would he most useful to the State. I allude more particularly to the
minds endowed with cogitative faculties, which tend to originality and research ;
these minds cannot be successfully trained unless combined with the teacbing there
is something useful to do. It is often observable that an indolent, inert, and lazy
hoy suddenly becomes filled with enthusiasm and emulation, both at studies and in
the playgronndj when subjected to a change of training. I venture to assert that
every year at our public examinations many men are rejected who are of the most
superior class of mind fur all practical purposes, who are physically most capable,
who are so constituted that they cannot cram, and who, though retarded by want of
proper training, are beginning to train their minds for themselves, and who if
brought up under a good system in early years would take the highest places in
examination. We are thus losing year by year from our front rank the men who
would be of the greatest service to the State.
The pleas given for the study of geography by Strabo are worth bringing before
the mind of youth, for he points out that while the success resulting from knowledge
in the execution of great undertakings is great, the consequences of ignorance atB
disastrous, and he refers, amoug other instances, to the shameful retreat of the fleet
of Agamemnon when ravaging Mysia, and to bring it more home to our everyday
life he says : " Even if we descend to such trivial matters as hunting, the case is
■
OF THE BRITISH ASSOCUTION. 636
still the same ; for he will be most Buccessfnlin the chase who is acquainted with the
size and nature of the wood, and one familiar with the locality will be the most
competent to superintend an encampment, an ambush, or a march.'*
He further calls attention to *' the importance of geography in a political view.
For the sea and the earth on which we dwell furnish theatres for action ; limited,
for limited action, vast, for grander deeds ; but that which contains them all and
is the scene of the greatest undertakings, constitutes what we term the habitable
earth ; and they are the greatest generals, who, subduing nations and kingdoms
under one sceptre and one political administration, have acquired dominion over land
and sea. It is clear, then, that geography is essential to all the transactions of the
statesman, informing us as it does of the positions of the continents, seas, and oceans
of the habitable earth."
Of all persons who require a knowledge of geography stand first those who are
most concerned in the government of our empire, and yet, as has been mentioned,
these have for the most part been brought up at schools where the mental training
for geography is most defective. Our statesmen, as a rule, have neither theoretical
teaching nor practical experience, and it is perhaps not too much to say that,
putting on one side those who are merchants and sailors, there are no more ignorant
persons with regard to geography than our lawgivers. This ignorance endangers
the safety of the country, for the people are continually perceiving, with regard to
matters of everyday life and practical experience, that their lawgivers are more
ignorant than themselves, and are consequently constantly interfering and giving
advice in the details of the administration of the empire.
The progress and development of a free country depends upon the characteris-
tics of the inhabitants, but these again depend in great measure upon the natural
resources of the country — the soil, climate, mineral wealth, navigation, mountain
ranges, risks and dangers from natural causes, and we must not omit the position
of the country both with reference to commerce and war.
It is not usually the country too greatly favoured^by nature which develops
most rapidly, neither is it necessarily a long term of peace which favours progress ;
on the contrary, all experience shows that man requires a certain amount of
opposition to bring out his energies and stimulate him to exertion, and though we
are constantly talking in our country of the blessings of peace and horrors of war,
we must generally acknowledge that our present foremost place among nations is
due in a great degree to the keeping up of our innate energies by incessant turmoils
and differences of opinion within and little wars and commercial rivalry without.
It is not, then, to a reign of peace in which our energies would stagnate and become
effete, but to a continuance of political excitement, which keeps the people on the
alert, that we should be indebted for progress, and our statesmen should be sujfi-
ciently well educated and trained to take advantage of every time of excitement in
furthering the welfare of the empire.
We owe the benefit (before railways) in the improvement of oiu: great northern
roods for military purposes to the rebellion of 1745, leading to our being able to
run coaches between London and Manchester in 1754, and between London and
Edinburgh in 1763. Scotland and Ireland are both indebted to war and disorder
for the first roads, constructed for purely military purposes.
But while the duty of taking advantage of each fitting opportunity for developing
a country lies with the statesman, his prospect of success depends in great measure
upon his geographical knowledge. His work may serve but for the purposes of
the moment, and never benefit posterity, if he has no knowledge or foresight, no
originality of purpose and perception of the fitness of things.
The measures that can be taken may be divided into two classes— domestic ani)
636
PROCEEDINGS OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL SECTION
inteniational* The former deaigaed to beaefit the country or empire directly ; the
latter to ghidd the land from hostilities from without, and in which the consideration
of geographical position has a most all-important bearing. In this latter class a
complete knowledge of geography ia au absolute necessity, as the question arises so
oft^n as to whether the acquisition of geographical pofiitiong will weaken or strengthen
a kingdom. For example, were Ireland two degrees further to the west, it is probable
that aO our views as to the method of conucctiog it for administrative purposes
with Great Britain would be greatly modified. Again, the particular poiuts at
which our coaling stations may be situated about the world may depend upon a
variety of circimistances, changing from one year to another. Thus Gibraltar, from
ita gec^raphical position, was an absolute necessity to uh thirty years ago, but, owing
to various changes, it is not now of equal value, either as a coaling station, for pro*
tecting our commerce^ or as a depdt lor our ivares, and the question is arking vnth
aome geographists whether it might not with advantage be exchanged for Ceuta
on the opposite coast.
It is possible that a more full geographical knowledge of Egypt and the Suez
Canal might have materially modified our present occui)ation of Egj^pt. The canal
could not be held without a fresh-water supply, and the possession of Cairo and the
Nile is the key to the fresh-water canal supplying Isniallia and Suez. Had it been
known that a plentiful supply of water could be obtained close to the marine canal>
independent of the Nile water, it is questionable how far any occupation of Egypt
would have been necessary.
In such cases it is not sufficient that the Government aubordinatea should have
a knowledge of geography, for even if they are fully conversant with what they
ought to know, it would be almost impracticable for them to convey to statesmen
knowledge which their untrained minds render them incapable of retaining or
making use of.
In settling {x^litical boundaries it may appear at first sight that they should
coincide with certain geographical features, forming natural boundaries not only
in international matters, but also iu cases of provincial, county, town, and parish
boundaries, and also in accordance with historical associations ; but we must do our
statesmen the justice to admit that the deviations they adopt may not always be
the result of ignorance, but arise from an astute perception that it may be neceseaij
in the future to have a cause for further modification, or even for raising the whole
question anew. It is difficult, however, to see how this can with any propriety
arise in domestic matters, and, apart from the doubtful political morality involved,
it would only occur in international matters on the assumption that our empire is
paramount, and can quarrel when it chooses ; and, moreover, in such a case could
only be Justified by being carried out with so perfect a knowledge of geograpliy tliat
in any reopening of the question our country should be in the right j whereaa bitter
experience has shown us that our statesmen have almost Invariably placed us in the
wrong*
It is fatftl in domestic matters to ignore the physical features within a coimtrj',
and attempt to obliterate its historical and to|>ographical associations, as the French
Revolutionists attempted, by substituting their departments for the old provinces.
This has only led to an artificial divisiou, which has not taken root among the
people, and French geographers are still calling attention to the absurdity of present
divisions. In such cases, we must keep alive to what are the ostenaible and what
the actual reasons for such changes, aod if the so-called simplicity introduced by
lawyer statesmen leads to increased law exi>enBes, we may reasonably look witi
suspicion on such an interference with the economical administration of the affairs
of the nation. In our own country geography is intimateiy connected with all kinds
OF THE BRITISH ASSOCUTION. 687
of divisions of land, which are dealt with by the administration. A simplification
of the arbitrary political divisions, and a medication and synchronisation of boun-
daries might lead directly to simplification of administrative machinery, and saving
of expenses in salaries, &c. London itself is a glaring instance of Uie waste of
money and friction of departments, from the extraordinary overlapping of boundaries
— political, magisterial, petty -sessional, police, statistical, postal, public works, &c.
Probably a great portion of the time and energies of the superior officers in the
various departments is occupied in waging war on one another, keeping the peace,
or temporising with or watching each other ; and this not from their own desire to
quarrel, but from the fault of the system which overlaps duties as well as boundaries,
and often gives one and the same duties to be performed by distinct departments.
Perhaps, in some instances, this friction may call out latent energy, but it at least
most successfully prevents departmental superiors from looking into their own
departmental affairs, and developing and perfecting the local administration, and
keeping up to the times.
With regard to international boundaries, too little attention is usually paid to
the changes which are caused by the advance of civilisation. For example, a
natural boundary may, in time, become merely conventional owing to development
of communications.
At one time the Bhine was a natural boundary, but has now become a channel
of communication. Again, the Zambesi is at present a natural boundary, completely
separating distinct tribes ; the time may come when it also will be a great channel
of communication. The usual natural international boundaries are broad or rapid
rivers and arms of the sea, mountain ranges, deserts, and swamps ; but the highlands
and lowlands of a country are also naturally separated, as they usually are inhabited
by people of different nationality.
InJEurope we find natural boundaries gradually losing their efficiency^as political
boundaries. The Rhine, for example, throughout a great portion of its length has
ceased altogether to be a political boundary, for though it is still a military line of
great strength, each large town on either bank has its suburb on the opposite side,
and the population has become so assimilated that the river has ceased to be a
practical political line. Consequently the line of the Yosges is deemed by many to
have become the natural boundary between France and Germany, on account of its
coinciding with the linguistic barrier. But, again, linguistic boundaries are no tests
of the limits of nationalities or national feeling. When a foreign language is forced
upon an unwilling people, they may for many generations be acutely opposed to the
nation whose language they have [adopted. On the Lower Danube, however, the
physical, linguistic, and political divisions all coincide, and the river has become
neutralised and is a natural boundary.
In Central Europe we find the highlands of the Alps forming the natural and
political boundary, though the people speak three different languages ; but in these
cases the people probably will not be found to be of the same race as those speaking
the same language in the plains below. •
Again, in the Pyrenees we find a natural, political, and linguistic barrier coin-
ciding, assisted by the fact that the mountain people are a different race from those
in the plains to the north and south.
In our own country we have a curious instance of language being no proof of
the nationality of the people, as the Iberians in Wales speak Celtic, and the Celts in
Western Britain speak Anglo-Saxon. Again in South Africa, wo have the people
of French extraction speaking Dutch and still feeling resentment to the Grovemment
on account of having forced a foreign language upon them, although the British
have succeeded the Dutch.
638
PROCEEBmGS OF TM GEOGRAPHICAL SECTION
Amoug Asiatic and African territories bouniiariea are very often lll-^eBned and
uncertain. Frequently it happens tliat between two powt^tfiil states tliere is a \axgG
tract of oonutry which owes a double allegiance, paying tribute to eacli, and yet in
some respects remaining independent, probably consisting of lands which are easily
ravaged and are com|3aratiTely speaking unprot^?ctGd by nature.
When we look info the subject of boundaries among ])astoral tribes, we find
cui'ious anomalies. The land belonga In many instances to the tribe and not to the
individual, grnd cannot be alienated. In the desert of Arabia a tribe in one part will
have an interest in the date pahus or corn lands of a tribe in another part, and this
system is rather fostered than disconntenancedj so that when evil befals an indl-
vidnal in one part he may go and live with his tribal friends elsewhere. It is a
knowledge of tlie intricate connections of these tribes and the to]X)graphic divisions
of tlieir lands which admits of any control being kept over these warlike i>eople, A
mistake arising out of a nQisuuderstaDding of this Bcdouiu system nearly led to a
disastrous restdt in the Egyptian campaign of 1882, owing to an outlying branch of
one of the most powerful tribes in Arabia being supposed to bo a petty independent
tribe of no consequence.
In many instances the cattle posts of tribes during peace time by mutnal
consent ititermlngle and overlap, yet are kept separate and distinct, so that no
geographical boundary is practicable; in fact, among such people it is the tribe
before the territory which is under the control of the chief. Thus it is quite
practicable to conceive instances of a tribe living on lands wnthin the area
occupied by another tribe and yet governed by its own laws. Many of the diffi-
culties the British have encountered io South Africa have arisen from a complete
ignorance of, or wilfully ignoring, the native land laws. Under the tribal system
even the chiefs in council have not the power of disposing of any portion of the
land they use; it belongs to every individual of tlie tribe and of the tribal
branches and to their children*s children. Thus, when a chief gives over his
territory it does not follow that he gives over the land for disposal as crown lands,
but only the goverament of the peofde. It is on this account that the offer of
Khama and other chiefs of the Bechuanaland territory was of bo great value.
They proposed by agreement in council in their respective territories to hand over
to Great Britain their territories, keeping for themselves the lands they used, and
offering for emigration purposes their vast extents of hunting lands, which are not
now of the same value for hunting purposes as they were in former days.
But Ibis proposal has not been accepted, and a parallel of latitude lias been pro-
claimed, without consent of the Bechuana chiefs, as the northern limit of the Britisb
Protectorate, cutting Khamas territory into two parts, and cutting a jwrtion of
Matabeleland off from Lobongolo's territory, so that the Boers of the Transvaal can-
not raid upon the Matabeles without violating the British Protectorate, and vice twrw,
while we have no means of securing its protection. Again, the Matabeles, wh^
making their annual raid upon Lake Kgaini, will violate the portion of the State of
Khama without the Protectorate, and he, if he wishes to oppose them, must do so
from his capital within the Protectorate, This will bring us into conflict with the
Matabeles, or else will practically deprive Khama of part of his territory.
It is difficult to conceive any arraugement more likely to lead to complications
in the future. The Protectorate, based on geographical principles, should extend
as far as the Zambesi, taking in all Khama's certain territory and as much of
the neutral territory as might l^ necessary to provide a natural boundary to east and
west.
In East Africa, again, the definition of spheres of action recently is anomalous,
A boundary ten miles from the coast for the Zanzibar dominions can of course have
OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION. 639
only a tentative character, and the exact definition in the future cannot fail to lead
to conflicts. Far worse, however, is the adoption of the river Tana as the northern
boundary of the British sphere of influence — a river occupied on both banks by the
same agricultural tribes. It is not clear for what reason the commissioners have left
this diflSculty for the future.
It would not be diflScult to give many recent instances in which those charged
with diplomatic definitions of international boundaries have failed in their duty
owing to a want of geographical knowledge of the localities with which they had to
deal.
For example, the boundary treaty of 1783 with the United States was incapable
of being carried into effect, as the geographical features did not correspond with the
assumption of the commissioners. This led to a dispute lasting thirty years, result-
ing in the boundary treaty of August 9th, 1843. The ignorance of the geography
of the country in this case led to very inconvenient and even disastrous results.
Again with the San Juan controversy. Historical and geographical knowledge
and ordinary care for the future development of Canada might have led to such
measures having been taken in the first instance as would have prevented cession of
valuable positions to the United States in 1846.
In India, again, our want of knowledge of the country to the north of the Afghan
boundary has led to a series of unnecessary concessions to Russia. Had the slightest
encouragement been given in former years by the Indian Government to enable
officers to acquire information as to the territories beyond our Indian Empire, no
doubt we should now be in a more secure position.
But, fortunately for the British Empire, foreign politicians have also much to
answer for to their respective countries on account of their ignorance of geography.
For many years past Grermany has been increasing the population of the United
States and our own colonies without assisting to further the influence of the German
Empire ; whereas had her statesmen been able to look forward, a German colony
might have been established. Many Germans as far back as 1866 were desirous
of establishing a colony in the Transvaal. But Germany now has to cast about for
unoccupied territory, and has chosen a piece of useless territory on the western
coast of South Africa, whereas with a little foresight Prince Bismarck might have
obtained on easy terms the whole of the French colonies in the Gulf of Guinea and
north of the C!ongo, which France had actually abandoned as worthless. Germany
would thus probably have held the position of France with reference to the reversion
of the Congo State.
By the treaty of Frankfort it was intended that all Gkrman-speaking villages
were to be ceded to Germany, but the boundary as originally laid down, for want of
geographical knowledge on the part of G^erman employ^, left several German vil-
lages near Metz in possession of France, and it was necessary subsequently to rectify
the error.
As a section of the British Association we are interested in the development of
geographical knowledge in the world generally, but more particularly in our own
Empire, and it is only by unceasingly calling attention to our shortcomings with re-
gard to the science which causes us to meet here to-day that we may hope for that
progress to be made which will enable us to maintain the proud position we at pre-
sent hold among nations, owing to our practical skill and energy. Hitherto we have
possessed so many other advantages that we have been able to dispense with a good
system of instruction, bat owing to various causes other nations are gaining upon
us in various ways, and we in our turn should use every effort to successfully
grapple with a subject which, if properly taught, must affect our wel&re as a nation
so deeply.
640
PROCEEDINGS OF TEE GEOGRAPmCAL SECTION
Explorations on the Upper Kassai and Sanknm. By Dr. Ltjdwtg
WoLf. — ^Whea Stanley had given ue, by hia marv^elloiis joumGy tbrocgh the Dark
Continent, the knowledge of the course of the Congo, the tbotight naturally arose
that there might he a connection between this gigantic river and the Kassai and
Saiikum, which bad ahready been crossed &r to the south by Livingtone and Pogge.
The pTobability of this Boon led to the desire to seek such n. connection*
Stanley, on his way down the Congo, came near the Equator to the junction
of a river called Ikelemba, which was thought to be identical with the Kassai. But
going hack a second time to the Congo, be saw that this could not possibly be wo,
aa the Ikelemba was but a small river* Then it was suggested that tbe Kassai,
the "most mysterious river," as it was called, probably might fall into a large
inland lake, like Lake Chad, whick probably existed in the son them basin of the
Congo.
Our expedition, tinder Lieutenant Wissmann, sent out by the royal protector of
African exploration, H.M. the King of tho Belgians, undertook to solve the Kasaai pro*
blem* We left Hamburg iu November 1883, for Loanda on the west coast of Africa^
went from there to Malange, the last Portuguese station on the eastern frontier of An-
gola, which was under the command of a native captain, as the highest military as well
as civil functionary. Our plan was to engage carriers here, buy the required goods for
barter, and then try to reach overland the Lulua river, an affluent of the Kassai, in
the Baluba country of Mukenge. There we wished to establish our basib of opera-
tions, build canoes, and then trust ourselves to the current as a guide down the Lulua
and the Kassai, either into the Congo or into a lake. This seemed to be certainly the
simplest way to explore the course of the river, and to find somewhere the place
where it discharges its waters. At Malange we could only get carriers as far as
Mukenge, nobody was to be found who was willing and plucky enough to go farther
with lis.
, The men of Angola are not nearly so useful for exploratory journeys as the
Zanzibarites. In the first place they are on an Inferior scale of civilisation, are
cowardly and always inclined to mutiny as soon as they hope to gain by it any
advantage for themselves. In the second place every carrier baa to receive his pay-
ment in advance, consisting of goods for barter, which he afterwards tries to sell to
the natives at the highest possible rate. Ho simply ofim himself as carrier m order
to have the opportunity of trading. The difficulty of keeping together our 500
men, belonging to different, many of them even to still independent, tribes of Angola,
we found out already at the commencement of our journey. For this reason the
expedition was divided] into three separate columns, each one marching indepen-
dently'and separately. They all left Malange in July 1884, under Lieutenant
von Francois, Lieutenant Frana Miiller, and myself, for Mukenge, %vhero they
joined again in November after an overland march of four months, the distance
being about 800 miles.
Lieutenant Wisamann was, as I have already mentioned before, the chief of the
whole expedition, anl I was designed by himself as second, and also as his pre-
sumptive fiuccesi?or in case of his absence or illness. This latter case, unfortunately,
happened when we had explored tho Kassai and reached Leopoldville on the Congo,
July 1885. Lieutenant Wiasmann and (later on) also Lieutenant Miiller, both fell
ill, in consequence of tho many hardships wo had to endure, and had to be carried
to the coast, whilst I returned to the interior to exjtlore the Sankuni and its
affluents. Our expedition w^as in a state of great embarrassment at the Congo.
We had left Germany for Africa, alogcther eight (white men) ; two of us, Lieutenant
Franz Miiller and Mr. Meyer, a gunsmith, had already died. Wissmann and
Miiller had to be taken back to the ooast^ seriously ill. Carpenter Bergsbg with some
OF THE BRITISH ASSOCUTIOK. 641
men bad remained in charge of Luluaburg Station, whioh we had established in the
Baluba Country, whilst the <chief of these natiyes, Ealamba Mukenge, with about
150 of his people, had agreed to accompany us. Only a few of our Angola men had
then pluck enough to go also with us. Gunsmith Schneider was the only white
man of our expedition who was still with me. Many of our faithful Baluba, who
had shown such an unlimited confidence in the white man, unprecedented in the
history of African exploration, were ill and weak in consequence of the hardships
suffered. A tedious overland march, or the hard work in canoes up river, of some
months' length, would surely have proved murderous for these poor people, and yet
they had to be taken back to their homes. This was certainly a sacred duty which
by all means had to be carried out.
I cannot think of that time without gratefully remembering a man whose name
will ever remain connected with our expedition : I mean Colonel Sir Francis de Winton,
who, as Administrator-General of the new Congo Free State, has enabled me to take
the Baluba back to their homes by the Stanley^ a new stem-wheel steamer, which
first had to be put together at Leopoldville. Colonel de Winton also accompanied me as
far as the junction of the Lulua and Luebo, and assisted roe in every possible way.
If it had not been for his decision to use the Stanley for transport of the Baluba
natives, many of them would never have seen their homes again. According to the
wishes of His Majesty the King, Colonel de Winton handed over to me a steam
launch, the En Ava/nt, and allowed two agents of the Congo Free State, Mr. Bate-
mnn and Captain v. d. Felsen, to enter as my assistants into the service of the
Kassai Expedition. I ought to mention that our expedition was independent of the
International Association, and being under direct orders of His Majesty the King
was called the Kassai Expedition. At the jimction of the Luebo and the Lulua, the
furthest navigable point south, I decided on establishing a station, for the accomplish-
ing of which Mr. Bateman deserves great credit. After having taken the Baluba
back to Mukenge, and seeing the station of Luluaburg, under the care of Mr. Bergslag,
in a prosperous flourishing state, I began the exploration of the Sankuru.
Mr. Schneider, a gunsmith of our army, took most skilfully the place of an
engineer on the En Avant, and thus enabled me to make 1200 miles on this small
steam-launch in spite of her poor condition.
On the 8th of January, 1885, 1 embarked at Luebo station. Exactly then a year
ago, when I was amongst the Bakuba« a people who so far had never seen a white
nmn in their country before, I received the first startling news with regard to the
course of the Sankuru, which gave me the opinion that this river did not discharge
its waters into the Congo, as formerly was believed, but into the EassaL When we
afterwards went down the Kassai, looking out for affluents on both sides, we found
that the information I had received from the Bakuba, that the mouth of a river on the
right bank of the Kassai was that of the Sankuru, was correct However, we left
the question, for want of time, to be definitely settled by a later exploration as soon
as the Kassai problem should be solved.
The junction of the Sankuru with the Kassai is full of sandbanks and islands.
The total width of both rivers is about 2i miles ; four miles above the junction they
are running quite parallel to each other N.N.W., so that one may be inclined to
take the right banks of the Sankuru for those of the Kassai, and so consider both
rivers to be only one. But soon the Sankuru changes its course almost suddenly,
and is now coming from north and north-east, whereas the direction of the Kassai
is from south and south-east. Near the junction the right bank forms a steep
wall of laterite about 15 yards high. The country behind is an open prairie, with
narrow strips of forest. The nearest village was in a northern direction about three
miles from the river, inhabited partly by Bashilehle and partly by Bassongo Mine,
642
prck:eedings of the geographical section
with whom friendly reklions were soon established. The Sankuru further up
showed itself to be a most lieautiful river, the width of which sometimea reaches to
about three miles. This lake-Uke appearance of the river explains probably why
Livingstone and Cameron heard about the existence of a lake Sankora in the central
basin of Africa. The average depth of the river ia about three fathoms, and the
average velocity of the cpment three to four miles an hour, a little more than that
of the Kassai. Yet the navigation was not easy for the En Avant, as she was in too
poor a condition. Sometimes it took her one to two honrs to gain abont 200 yards
against a cuTrent of only 3i miles an hour. I had to sacrifice some of my few guns,
which were used to replace the wora-ont steam-pipes and fire-bars; besides, the
broken plate of the engine had to be plastered every morning with clay.
The banks on either side of the river were now covered with dense forest, now an
open prairie, dotted hero and there with palms and other trees, making the scenery
quite pretty. There are hills on both sides, gently rising from 50 to 200 feet in
height, but near the Lubi junction the river has often sharp cuts and steep laterite
banks 100 to 20O feet high. The oil-palm {EIxis fjuinfensis) is quite abundant. On
the right bank of the lower river-section, in the Bassongo Mino country, I saw the
fim-palm (Bomsstts), I mention this particularly, as 1 never found theBorassus on
the left bank, or south of kt. 4^ S. on tlio right Kassai hank. There seems to be here
a kind of botanical limit for this species. The banks on both sides, especially on the
left, are thickly populated* From the jimction up to the 23rd degree E. long, are
settled the Bankutu, belonging to the warlike Bassongo Mino tribe.
The same distance on the left bank La inhabited by the Bakuba, small tribes, who,
though indepondeni of one another and each oue under their particular chief, highly
resjiecfc the name of the great Bakuba king Lukeugo, whom I had visited a year agot,
and for that reason I waa amicably received everywhere. Joining the Bassongo Mino
and Bakuba are several smaller tribes, as the Bashabbe, But o to, Bena Lussamba,
Kato, Baluba, ^c.
All these tribes are more or less troublesome, though finally I succeeded in
establishing friendly relations with almost all of them.
The BaFBongo llino, with whom we had rather a hard struggle on the Kassai,
as they attacked us treacherously, were also hostile on the Sankuru. Yet the
daughter of the powerful chief Gapetsh interfered and influenced her jieople not
to fight. She came, quite fearless, with but a few companions, to pay mo a
friendly vmt and to exchange presents with me*
The tribe of these Bassongo Mino is settled near to the junction, about 20
miles above. I saw in their villages some commercial articles which seemed to
have come the long distance from the Congo. The chief, for instance, wore a
heavy solid brass ring round his neck, like the Bayanzi do on the Congo. When
I asked whence this brass came, they at once jyointed towards the north-west and
told me of a large river, where white men with fire-arms lived. Undoubtedly they
meant by this river the Congo. The Bassongo Mino further up river, under their
chief Tongolafa, were quite hostile, and were the only people who confessed them-
selves to bo cannibals. When I reached the country the l^n Avant had to be
repaired as she had a leak. Cloth , cartridges, everything was wet, and had to
be dried on shore.
Soon several canoes full of nativea came along. All the men were armed with
bows and arrows. ITiey were quite aatonisbed to see a white man, but not at all
frightened by this first sight. One of my Baluba attracted their particular atten-
tion, being fleshy and very stout. Some remarks were heard that it would b©
easy to kill us all, as we were only a few, then to chop ua up and to take all the
beautiful things befiides. Their chief Tongolata already fancied I was quite at his
I
OF THE BRraSH ASSOCIATION. 643
mercy, and did not eveu hesitate to tell me so. Our gons, in their ignorance, were
not considered to be weapons at alL
Something had to be done to check these hostile natives if we would not run
the risk to be quickly overpowered by their large number, which was increasing
every minute. Following a sudden impulse I drew my revolver and discharged it
close to the chiefs ear. The result was startling. Tongolata got so frightened, that
he, shiveriug all over his body, took hold of his ears. The tingling in his head
made him probably think that they were gone. All the natives looked perfectly
aghast aud quite horrified. The chief, as soon as he found himself unhurt, pre-
tended to be my best friend, and gave me as a proof of it a present of two chickens.
Up to the Lubi junction there were a great many canoes on the river. Some
days I have counted 100 of them, and the largest one, having double the length of
the En Avant^ could carry as many as 80 people. The natives rowed standing
up, and at such speed that they easily overtook the En Avant, When they had
done so, they used to express their joy by wild cries and by drumming with the
palms of their hands against the sides of their canoes.
After reaching the junction of the Lubi and the Sankuru the river narrows •
in some places to 260 yards width. On the 18th of February, 1886, 1 arrived at
Katshitsh, where Pogge and Wissmann on their journey to Nyangwe in 1882 had
crossed the river and had learnt from the natives that the Sankuru always main-
tained a northern direction. They told me the same, not knowing better ; any-
thing below the junction of the Lubi is a mystery to them. Instead of Sankuru
the river is now often called Lubilash. A Eoto chief on the right bank told me
about some rapids ahead, and said, ^ The Sankuru is good, the Lubilash is bad 1 "
which means that the river, as long as it bears the name Sankuru, is navigable, but
becomes dangerous for navigation on account of these rapids as soon as its name
is changed to the Lubilash. The river narrows to 250 yards, has an average depth
of three fathoms, a velocity of current of 4] miles, and runs sometimes with sharp
cuts between st^ep banks of laterite 50 yards high. I passed four rapids with the En
Avant, but she twice struck a rock, fortunately without being damaged. On account
of these rapids I went nearly as far as 6° S. lat. overland to the Baluba tribe Batondoi,
who live on both sides of the river, and I found the rapids increasing in number; the
river being only 30 yards wide, and the velocity of the current 4 J miles an hour.
Between Katshitsh and the Batondoi I met the powerful chief Zappu Zapp, who,
as a slave-hunter, is the curse of the country between the Lubilash and the
LomamL Nearly all his men were armed with percussion guns, which he gets at
Nyangwe from the Arabs in exchange for slaves and ivory. The other tribes are
still armed with bows and arrows. This was the furthest point to the west, whence
the trade all goes to Zanzibar. Several of Zappu Zapp's men, also his sons, spoke the
Suahili language. Zappu Zapp wanted guns and powder from me. He did not
care for anything else. When I refused to accept his slaves and ivory he resolved
to take the En Avant by force overnight. I fortunately heard of his scheme, soon
enough to prevent it. I found the Lubi, an aflfluent of the Sankuru on the left side,
50 to 60 yards wide, with about two fathoms depth, on account of sharp cuts and
turns not good for navigation. The En Avant was driven by the strong current at
one of the sharp turns against the right bank and badly damaged. Going down the
Sankuru I found on the right bank the junction of a river from 100 to 120 yards
wide, two to three fathoms deep, falling into the Sankuru by two arms. The banks
on either side were covered with dense forest and Pandanus. There was ^hardly a
place for landing, and no village to be seen. All our food was consumed, tea and
coffee weeks ago, and nothing but salt left. For some days we suflferedl badly. At
last I got provisions, and also good inrormation from the Bena Tehka, friendly
No, X.— Oct. 1887.] 2 z
64A PROCEEDINGS OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL SECTION
natives on the left bank of the Lomami, who fell down on their knees when the
En Avant came in sight. They told me that the river at its junction was called
Luetshu, and by the Bassongo Mino, Lukenge, yet that they themselves, and also
the natives further up, used the name Jjomami. I got the same information from
other natives also, who all distinctly called the river Lomami.
When I foimd the river taking and keeping steadily a south-easterly direction, I
began to think that the river might be the Lomami. As the Kassai, the junction of
which was thought to be near the Equator, and the Sankuru, which was supposed
to discharge itself at about 1° ZQl N. lat. into the Congo, both unexpectedly took a
direction north-west, even west, it is not surprising that the Lomami should
do the same. As the central basin of the Congo is a tableland with a gradual
slope from the south-east to the north-west, it seems also to be quite natuxal that
the Lomami should take a corresponding course. The Kassai, Sankuru, and
Lomami form from the Congo a nearly straight water-way to the east, 780 miles
long, which cuts off the north curve of the Congo, and opens up to civilisation and
commerce a vast, rich, and hitherto unknown country.
After my return from the Sankuru I happened to meet again quite accidentally
at the junction of the Lulua with the Kassai, in April 1886, Lieut. Wissmann, who
had recovered and regained his health by his stay at Madeira. Mr. Grenfell, of the
Baptist Mission, had brought him from Leopold ville up the Kassai on board the
Feace, It was a singular meeting! On the very same day I had tied up the
disabled En Avant here, close to the right bank of the Kassai, as she could not be
taken back to the Luebo station against the current. I had the intention to con-
tinue my journey in a boat or overland, when suddenly here, in the centre of Africa,
the English flag of the Peace came in sight. One day sooner or later, and we should
not have met each other. Mr. Grenfell was so kind as to take the En Avant^ witii
Captain v. d. Felsen and Mr. Schneider on board, under the protection of the Peaee
down the Kassai to Leopold ville. I have still to mention that our expedition is in
many ways indebted to Mr. Grenfell and the Baptist Mission. When Mr. Wissmann
and Lieut. Miiller were taken seriously ill at Leopoldville, and no suitable rooms
could be found for them at the station, they were kindly received and taken care of
at the Baptist Mission-house. The good work done also in this regard by the
Baptist missionaries on the Congo, especially by the late much-lamented Mr.
Comber, cannot be highly enough valued and appreciated.
In the spring of last year Wissmann and I explored the Kassai beyond the
Lulua junction. We found the river navigable for another CO miles, and then
came to a cataract eight yards high, which I, in honour of my friend Wissmann,
have called the " Wissmann Fall."
It is rather a remarkable fact that on passing the 5th parallel of south lat., the
river-beds become stony. This is — so far was already known — the case in the Congo
and Kuango, and I found the same in the Kassai, Lulua, Lubi, and Sankuru. I
conclude, from all the information I have gathered, that this cataract region between
5° and G° S. lat. stretches from the west coast as far as the Tanganyika lake.
We know that the Lukugu, the outlet of the Tanganyika, also is stony. This
cataract region does not seem to be without influence on the climate and on the
fertility of the soil.
The highest temperature I ever found in Africa was on the Lomami, where the
motion of the air sometimes seemed to fail altogether. The heat was like that of a
hothouse, yet I never found it so disagreeable as for instance during the summer
in the United States of America. The nights are generally cool and quite fresh.
From the Kuango to the Kassai the primeval forest gradually increases, but it ia
still niore or less limited as gallery forest to the many rivers, streams, and brooks.
OF THE BRITISH ASSOaATIOK. G45
Yet passing the Kassai and further on the Lulna, I found by a superficial estimate
about 40 to 50 per cent, dense forest. On mj journey from Mukenge to the Bakuba
land, I have often ^iravelled for days through primeval forest. I mention this
particularly, because it has been stated that there is no forest of any amount in
Central Africa. The Sterculiace» and Burseracesd form here gigantic trees springing
out of the dense mass of foliage and bushwood. The indiarubber creeper, Landolphia,
is very abundant in the bordering forest of all the tributaries of the Eassai, Lulua,
and Sankuru, but the value of it is known to but few tribes. Wherever the forest
disappears, grassy glades and hills prevail, dotted here and there with groups of oil-
or wine-palms (Elmia and £aph. vinifera). The soil itself in its composition shows a
general uniformity, and only tiie*proportion of the single components to one another
seems to be a little different ; ferruginous clay and sand mixed with humus are most
to be seen. The much talked-of laterite is to be found everywhere, yet does not
at all cause sterility. As in the upper region of the Nile, the laterite also runs
through the most fertile territories of the central basin of the Congo. The value of
the soil depends chiefly on its abundant irrigation, which often defies its chemical
composition. In regard to the rainfall, the central basin of the Congo, as far as
6^ S. lat., differs to its advantage from the coast. There is not a marked dry season.
At Luluabnrg, for instance, during two years of meteorological observations in
1885 and 1886, we had rain every month. June, July, and August are the months
in which the least rain falls, but they have a heavy morning dew. The soils proved
to be excellent for plantations of rice, sugar, maize, &c.
The country from the coast to the Eassai is thinly populated, though all the
villages I passed through showed a great number of healthy-looking children. This
will be understood if wo remember that this r^on has for centuries provided Angola
and the foreign market with slaves. Already, at the beginning of this century, the
Portuguese slave-dealers have sent their black employes as far as Muata Yamvo to
buy slaves there. This explains to us abo the name " Pombeiros " on old maps of
Africa. Pombeiros means simply slaves who have received their freedom, and is.
not a family name, .though we still find it erroneously written so.
Passing the Kassai, we enter the thickly populated territories of Central Africa. .
The first people we met here were the Baluba. It is only a few years since they
became first known to us. Pogge and Wissmann were the first white men who passed
(1881-82) their country on the way to Nyangwe. Our expedition then followed
(1885), and we have been enabled by these natives to add some knowledge to the
hitherto unknown hydro-orographical condition of Central Africa. While the natives
generally at first meet the white man with hardly withheld suspicion and even hos-
tility, the Baluba at once showed us a blind childlike confidence. They greeted us
as former deceased chiefs and relations of their king, Ealamba Mukenge, by which
names they always called us. According to their belief, all distinguished warriors
and chiefs will return to them metamorphosed after their death. Whilst our 500*
Angola men had not the courage at Mukenge to go with us down the Eassai, or to-
make any further journeys into the interior, the Baluba were ready to help us, and
to go wherever we wanted them.
The Baluba are not the original people of their present country ; ' they are
emigrants from the south-east, whilst the Bakuba have come from the north-west.
There is a remarkable difference between these two tribes. They differ in appearance,
habits, and language. The Baluba are a strongly mixed race, which I could also
prove by anthropological measures. The capacity of the skull is extremely variable,
being even in the extremes 513 ccm. On the whole, the average capacity is but little,
and gave from seven skulls, for instance, but 1257 ccnu Women had only 1085,
and men 1386. A remarkable difference I
2z 2
6i6
PROCEEDINGS OF THE GEOGIIAPHICAL SECTlOJf
It would lead me too far to give here further details of our anthropological
obBervatioiiB,
The Bakuba^havo the characteristics of a piiro race; they are warlike, real
savagefit and very au^Mirstitioua. EDonnoiis numbera of human sacnfi^ces still take
place on the death of their chiefs. The Bakuba told me most diatiixctly that they
had come from the north-west, and taken their present country by main force from
the Batna, who were subdued or driven away.
On my journey in the Bakuba country, north of Hukenge, marching all day
long through a dense foreat, I suddenly arrived at a grassy glade, where I unex-
pectedly found a settlement of Batua, the African dwarfk These little people, men
and women, were as much sJartled as I was at our meeting. At first they were
frightened and would have run away, if they had not been taken qm'te by surpriae*
After a while they became friendly, though in spite of all efforts on my side they
still reraained very timid. I was able to take the measure of their length by a
marked spear unobserved by tbem* They were all well shaped, had uniform dark
coCFee-brown colour, and not apparently any pithecoid signs whatever. Prognathism
and also steatopygy were not moiij developed than with other African tribes. The
Batua are a mere hunting people and do not cultivate the soil. They dry the flesh
of the animals and then exchange it for Indian com, manioc, j)ea-nuts, &c,, even for
weapons and other requirements of life, with the Bakuba and Baluha, on a neutral
market-place in the centre of the forest Eveiywhere near their mean-looking grasB
huts were well-covered pita about three to four yards deep, for catching elephants*
btiffaloes^ and wild boars, in case they should leave the forest to seek food on this
small grassy gkdo, I also found the Batua at the court of the Bakuba king
Lukengo, where they were employed as providers of game and palm wine for the
chiefs table.
Neither the Bakuba nor the Batua know the use of fire-arms, yet they are very
^kilful in the management of their bows, arrows, and spears- Since the Baluba have
come into contact with tbe Kioque and Baiigab, trading tribes from the Lunda
cotmtry and from the Kuango, they are getting provided with guns and jNowder, for
which tbey barter childfen, girls, and even their own wives, Mukenge may be
called the most imjwrtant slave market of Central Africa, as yearly thousands of
peo]>le are sold there into slaverj^* The natives are so interested in the slave trade
that it will take a long time, and a strong civilising influence, before it will cease
to exist. Though the Baluba have a very keen feeling of right and wrong, which
they so well express by their saying —
" Law is better than force,
Life is better than wealth,'*
yet they do not understand that there is any wrong in selliiag their wives and
chilli re n ; as these are property they consider themselves entitltd to dispose of them
at their pleasure. However, they make a difference between domestic slaves and
skives for export ITie latter are usually troublesome individuals whom they want
to get rid of. Last spring there was iu the market at Mukengo an old slave, a
rather distinguished looking fellow, who had been a chief in the southern part of
Baluba, At the time of his reign he was very warlike, always fighting with the
neighbouring tribes. During these ooiitinual wars many of bis subjects had been
killed, so tbat at last the peojile began to grumble and decided quietly to sell their
own cbiL^f into j^lavery, the best way to get rid of him, and to live for the future in
peace. Tlicy sold him for ten goats, which were killed, and the meat, as a com pen-
satiou, dii^tributed cimongst the relations of all those who had died in the frequent
battles of their chief.
:
I
OP THE BRITISH ASSCKJIATION. 647
When I mentioned to a Baluba chief how wrong it was to sell their own wives,
he quietly listened to my arguments, and then told me, rather in confidence, that
they only sold their troublesome wives out of the country, never the good ones.
The slaves are sold either to the Bakuba in exchange for ivory, or to the tribes
living more west for guns, powder, and doth.
There is also at Mukenge quite an important trade in indiarubber, which has
been carried on for several years. The indiarubber is taken overland to Malange.
Tet to carry one load of about 75 lbs. weight, consisting of 1000 small balls of india-
rubber, this long distance costs 500 balls and four yards of cloth besides. To meet
these great expenses, the black Bangala or Baluba trader buys slaves in the Baluba
country and uses them as carriers. There is no doubt that all the indiarubber trade
from Mukenge will go its natural way down the Kassai to the Congo as soon as the
Congo railway is made. The Eassai, Sankuru, and Lomami, forming a magnificent
waterway, lead into the very heart of Africa through hitherto untouched countries,
where an abundance of dead as well as of living ivory proves that it would be at
least too premature an occupation to calculate in how long or short a time probably
the last elephant tusk may be shipped from Africa. To gain the real profit by this
shipping road the access to this navigation from the coast has first to be gained.
Without a railway on the Lower Congo, where rapids and cataracts prevent the
transport on the river, commerce will hardly gain any profit from the vast stretch
of navigation offered by the Congo and its tributaries.
The climate of no country has been so much abused as that of the Congo,
and in fact the whole of Central Africa. People who have come home disap-
pointed from the Lower Congo have often considered themselves competent to
discuss not only the climate of the small part of Africa they had seen, but also of
the interior. Africa, as well as other countries, has its climato-geographical frontiers,
and the climate of the interior differs most advantageously from that on the coast.
On the whole, the climate is merely tropical, and has certainly its dangers when
the necessary precautions are neglected. For this reason I do not think that Central
Africa, any more than India, ever will become a country for European emigration
as America and Australia are. Tet a European of good constitution is quite able
not only to live there, but also to do for several hours a day manual labour, without
injuring his health. We ought not to judge the danger of the African climate by
the mortality of travellers and explorers. They have to live under quite exceptional
circumstances, have to suffer many wants, and to undergo many hardships.
Convenient dwelling-houses, with some comfort, regular work, and a temperate
way of living are in Africa, as well as everywhere else, the chief conditions of good
general health. As in India and the West Lidies the progressive cultivation will
also improve the climate. Many of the pioneers, however, will have to pay for this
improvement with their lives. The history of the colonies of all parts of the world
teaches us that these sacrifices must be made, as an inexorable necessity. As a
nucleus of African civilisation, and the result of a most disinterested large-minded
philanthropy, the Congo Free State deserves the sympathy of all civilised nations,
who are all welcome there, to join in the work of raising Africa to culture, and of
reaping its commercial advantages.
648 NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
NEW GEOGEAPHIOAL PUBLICATIONS.
(By J. SooTT Eeltdb, Librarian b.o.b.)
EUROPE.
Baddeley, M. J. B.— Thorough Guide Series. Ireland (Part I.) Northern Countiea
includiog Dublin and neighbourhood. Seventeen maps and plans by J. Bartholo-
mew, F.B.G.B. London, Dulau & Co., 1887 : 12mo., pp. xv. and 165. Price 4«.
[Presented by Messrs. Dulau & Co.]
Baedeker, K— London and its Environs. Handbook for Travellers. With 3 maps
and 15 plans. Sixth revised edition. Leipsic, Earl Baedeker ; London, Dulau &
Co., 1887 : 12mo., pp. viii., 340, and 46. Price 6». [Presented by Messrs.
Dulau & Co.]
Southern Germany and Austria, including Hungary and Transylvania.
Handbook for Travellers. With 14 maps and 30 plans., Sixth edition, revised
and augmented. Leipsic, Earl Baedeker; London, Dulau & Co., 1887: 12mo.,
pp. xvi. and 441. Price 7«. [Presented by Messrs. Dulau & Co.]
Jackson, T. 0. — ^Dalmatia, the Quamero, and Istria, with Cettigne in Montenegro
and the Island of Grado. Oxford, Clarendon Press, 1887 ; 3 vols. 8vo. ; vol. i.
pp. xxvi. and 418 ; voL ii. pp. vii. and 397 ; vol. iii. pp. vii. and 453. Price 2L 2s.
[Presented by the Publishers.]
Although the interest of this fine and richly illustrated work is mainly
antiquarian and architectural, it abounds with topographical descriptions and
details of value to the geographical student. Many of the towns and villages
in the interesting regions embraced by the work are described with considerable
fulness, and the historical information given will be of service to any one desirous
of tracing how far the development of the places referred to has been dependent
on geographical conditions. Places like Spalato and Ragusa, the Bocche di
Cattaro, Pola, Trieste, and other considerable towns, come in for detailed treat-
ment, while there is much information concerning several of the islands along
the coast.
liXOLf A. C. — ^Die Balkanhalbinsel (mit Ausschluss von Griechenland). Freiburg
i. B., 1887 : 8vo., pp. x. and 276, Price 6«. (Dulau.)
This is a useful systematic description of the region included under the title.
It deals in its first section with the physical geography, in the second with
ethnology, and in the third with towns and routes. There are numerous
illustrations and a small map.
[Murray, John.] — A Handbook for Travellers in Devonshire. Tenth edition^
revised. With maps and plans. London, John Murray, 1887: post 8vo.,
pp. xlii. and 301. Price Is. Qd.
Ditto in Portugal. A Complete Guide for Lisbon, Cintra, Mafra, Evora,
the British Battle-fields, Santarem, Alcoba9a, Batalha, Coimbra, Bussaco, Oporto,
Braga, Braganpa, the Baths and Mountain Passes, &c. With a short account
of Madeira, the Azores, and the Canary Islands. Fourth edition. With plans
of Lisbon and Oporto, and a travelling map. London : John Murray, 1887 : post
8vo., pp. [67] and 201. Price 125.
ASIA.
Cantley, N. — Straits Settlements. Report on the Forest Department for the year
1886. Singapore, Government Printing Office, 1887 : folio, pp. 35.
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUCATIONS. 649
[Central Asia.] — Delimitation Afghane. N^gociations entre la Bussie et la Grande
Bretagne 1872-85. Edition du Ministdre des Affaires fitrangkes. St, Petersburg,
1886 : 4to., pp. 384. [Presented by M. Venukoff.]
This volome includes a memoir (in Bussian) by M. Venukoff. There are
four maps illustrating the work.
China. — Imperial Maritime Customs. 1. Statistical Series : Nos. 3 and 4. Betums
of Trade at the Treaty Ports, and Trade Beports, for the year 1886. Part I.
Beport on the Trade of China, and Abstract of Statistics. Part II. Beports and
Statistics for each I\>rt. With the Beports and Statistics for Corea. Published
by order of the Inspector General of Customs. Shanghai, published at the
Statistical Department of the Inspectorate General of Customs, 1887 : 4to., pp.
(Part I.) 27 ; (Part II.) vi. and 473.
The total net imports into China amounted in 1886 to 87,479,323 Hk. TIb.
as compared with 88,200,018 Hk. Tls. in 1885 ; and tho total exports in 1886
amounted to 77,206,568 Hk. Tls. as compared with 65,005,711 Hk. Tls. in
1885. The value of the Haikwan Tael for 1886 was 5». \d.
The total value of foreign imports into Corea has been in 1886, 2,474,185
dollars, as compared with 1,671,562 dollars in 1885 ; the total value of exports
to foreign countries has been in 1886, 504,225 dollars, as compared with
388,023 dollars in 1885.
Haig, [Major-Oen.] F. T.— Beport of a Journey to the Bed Sea Ports, Somali-
land, and Southern and Eastern Arabia. Beprinted from the ' Church Missionary
Intelligencer.' 8vo., pp. 40. Price 6J. [Presented by the Church Missionary
Society.]
AFBICA.
Bentley, [Bev.] W. Holman. — ^Life on the Congo. With an Introduction by the
Bev. George GrenfelL London, Beligious Tract Society, 1887 : 8vo., pp. 124.
Price 1«. 6c?. [Presented by the Publishers.]
This is a trustworthy and useful little volume, containing in brief space a
summary of what we know of the Congo region. It deals with the discovery of
the Congo, physical features, vegetation, chmate, and people ; home life on the
Congo ; religious ideas of the natives ; cannibalism, freemasonry, and charms ;
missions in Central Africa and on the Congo. There are a considerable number
of illustrations and a small map.
Fallot, Ernest. — Par de1& la M^iterran^e. — Kabylie, Aur^, Eroumerie. Paris,
Plon [1887] : 8vo., pp. 3 and 307. Price Zs, (Dulau.)
Yignon, Louis.— La France dans TAfrique du Nord, — ^Alg^rie et Tunisie. Paris,
Guillaumin et Cie., 1887 : 8vo., pp. v. and 290. Price 6«. Bd, (^Dulau,)
Bernard [Doctenr].— L'Algerie Qui S*en Va. Paris, Plon [1887], 8vo., pp. 388.
Price 3«. (Dulau,)
Lanessan, J.-L. [Del— La Tunisie. Paris, Alcan, 1887 : 8vo., pp. 268. Price
3s. 9d. CDtdau,)
These four volumes are all the result of the increased interest aroused in
French possessions in North Africa, since the annexation of Tunis. M. Fallot,
Secretary of the Geographical Society of Marseilles, made a run over Algiers in
1884. He has some useful notes on his visit to Kabylia, the Aurds Mountains,
and the Kroumir country.
M. Vignon, a former official of the French Colonial Office, has been making
a special study of the French colonies. His present volume is a systematic
and critical investigation into French colonial enterprise in the north of
Africa. He compares the progress of Algeria with that of Australia, not by
any means to the advantage of the former. Between 1830 and 1886 Algeria
cost France over 4764 million francs, while the Treasury receipts in Algeria
650
l^EW GEOGRAPHICiX PCTBUCATIOXS.
amouDted to only 1,161,612^000 francs. Among the questions discussed in
detail by M. Vignou are acclimatifiAlion and immigration ; the land qiiestion ;
the resources of the country ; commerce ; public works ; credit ; admi lustration.
Altogether, while he thinks that France has a heavy task before her in the
development of the country, he believes she ia quite eipial to it,
Dr, Bernavd'fl volume is a sketchy but interestingly written account of a
visit to this country, without any dates.
M, Lauessao, the author of an able work od the Colonial Expansion of
France, gi^'es in his *La Tunisie' a systematic description of the country in its
various aspects- He treats in succession of the soil, climate, and pt^pulation ;
indigenouij and Euro[>eau agriculture and industrj^; mioes and marble quarries;
the commercial situation ; taxe^ and customs; means uf communication ; public
works ; and necessary reforms, A small map ia appended, ahowing the area of
forests and the limits of agriculture.
A^IEBICA.
Etss, C. WasMngion. — Jamaica at the Royal Jubilee Exhibition, Liverpool,
1687. London, *Six>ttiawoode & Co., 1887: 8vOt> pp. 91, map and portraits.
[Presented by C. Washington Even, Esq.]
Petitot, Esdle. — ^Les Grands Esquimaux. Paris, Plon, 1887 : 8vo., pp, vi.and 307.
Price 3s.
Tliis is only a small instalment of the narrative of Abbd Petitot's twenty
years* sojourn among the Eskimo and Indians of British North America. It
refers to a winter jouroey in 1805 to the Eskimo at tbe mouth of tlie Anderson
river, and to his summer journeys in 18US and 1S77 to the |>eople at the mouth
of the Mackenzie river, esi>ecially around Fort Macphersoo. While on both
journeys he made valuable observations on the geograpny of the country through
w^hich he passed, and is able to cc»rrect and add to exir^ting information, the
main value of AbWs Petitot^s narrative lies in the extremely interesting details
h© gives concerning the Eskimo among whom ho sojourned, their physique,
their manners, their mode of life, and tbeir language. He writes unreserv^ly
concerning his Eskimo friends, so much so that he states in the preface that hia
volume, •' N*est jx^int destine il la jeunesse.*' There is a good map (1 ; 2,100^000)
to illustrate the Abbe*** iourncya.
AUSTRALIA.
[ATlfitralia.] ^Manual of Physical Geography of Austmlia. By H. Beresford
Be la Pot^rWall, m,a. Melbourne, 18832 12mo.j pp. viii. and 194. [Presented
by the Author,]
Victoria, Geo!og:y aud Physical Geography, by Reginald A, F. Murray,
Geological Surveyor for the Department of Mine?, Melbourne, 1887 : 8vo.,
. pp. iv. and 179, [Presented by the Mining Department.]
ilr. WalFs book is a welcome stimmary of the leading facts of the physical
geography of AustraUs, so far as these are known. It seems to be written witk
knowledge and judgment. It deals with the great featurea of the continent in
Buccessive chapters — relitif, plains and tablelands, niountains, oceans, rivers,
lakes^ &c. There is a chapter on climatology, in which Mr. Wall gives a very
fair statement as to minfall. " It has been a favourite s[ieculation/* he tells us,
" to endeavour to draw from fitatistics a theory of ]>eriodicity ; but nearly all the
theories have been given up as contrary to extendwl exi^ericoce. If there be
such a thing as a drought period at all, it mast be one of great length —
probably one of between fifty and sixty years.** There are separate chapters on
the flora^ fauna, and geology,
Mr. Murray's hook is mainly geological, but there is much in it which the
geographer will lind useful. It may be accepted as an authoritative and
trustworthy treatise on the geology of Yictoria.
K£W GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUCATIONS. 651
OCEANIA.
Clmrcliwafd, William B.— My Consulate in Samoa: a Record of Four Years
Sojourn in the Navigators Islands ; with Personal Experiences of King Malietoa
Laupepa, his Country, and his Men. London, E. Bentley and Son, 1887 ; 8vo.,
pp. xii. and 403. Price 15«. [Presented by the Publishers.]
This volume does not in any way pretend to be scientific, being simply a
record of actual experieuces during a four years' official residence amongst the
Samoans. Much useful information is given regarding the Samoan Islands,
the author devoting a separate chapter to a description of the whole group. He
has also much to tell us about the people themselves — their character, manners
and customs, sports, and the results which have followed the introduction of
Christianity. Mr. Churchward also narrates many incidents which happened
during his consulate, which help to make the book an interesting one. The
addition of an index and a map would have added greatly to its value.
GENERAL.
A Manual of Scientific Enquiry ; prepared for the use of Officers in Her Majesty's
Navy and Travellers in general. Originally edited by Sir John F. W. Herschel,
Bart. Fifth edition. Edited by Sir Robert S. Ball, ll.d., f.b.8., Royal Astronomer
of Ireland. London, Eyre Ss Spottiswoode, 1886: sm. 8vo., pp. xiL and 450
charts. Price 2». 6d, [Presented by the Hydrographer of the Admiralty.]
In this edition many of the articles have been entirely re-written. The fol-
lowing is a list of the contents of the work : — I. Astronomy by Sir G. B. Airy,
K.C.B., F.B.8. ; II. Hydrography, by Captain W. J. L. Wharton, B.N., f.b.8.,
Hydrographer of the Admiralty ; III. Tides, by Prof. George H. Darwin, ll.d.,
F.B.S. ; I Y . Terrestrial Magnetism, by Prof. George F. Fitzgerald, F.B.S., assisted
by Staff-Commander Creak, b.n., f.b.8., and G. M. Whipple, Esq., b.80. ;
V. Meteorology, by Robert H. Scott, Esq., f.b.8. ; VI. Geography, by Gen. Sir
Henry Lefroy, B.A., f.b.8., f.b.g.8. ; VII. Anthropology, by Edward B. Tylor,
Esq., D.C.L., F.B.8. ; VIIL Statistics, by Prof.C. F. Bastable, M.A.; IX. Medical
Statistics, by William Aitken, Esq., M.D., f.b.8. ; X. Geology, by Prof. Archi-
bald Geikic, f.r.8. ; XL Mineralogy, by Prof. W. J. Sollas, d.8C. ; XII. Seismo-
logy, by Thomas Gray, Esq., b.8C., f.b.8.e. ; XIII. Zoology, by Prof. H. N.
Moseley, f.b.8. ; XIV. Botany, by Sir J. D. Hooker, k.o.8.1., f.b.8.
Berlin, Dorothea.— Erinnemngen an Gustav Nachtigal. Berlin, Paetel, 1887:
8vo., pp. vii. and 232. Price 5«. (DtUau.)
This little volume consists mainly of extracts from the late Dr. Nachtigal's
private correspondence. Besides containing interesting notes on the incidents
of his African journeys, they bring out, as Fran Berlin intended, the leading
featiires of the man's noble character.
Jolly, William.— The Realistic Teaching of Geography. London, Blackie & Son :
8vo., pp. vi. and 56. Price 1». [Presented by the Publisher.]
Mr. Jolly, one of Her Majesty's Inspectors, and himself an old and
eminently successful teacher, has here given many hints that ought to be of
real service in the teaching of elementary geography. There is nothing par-
ticularly new, but Mr. Jolly has arranged his hints methodically and expressed
them clearly and vigorously. In making use of the simple arrangements for
the realistic teachiug of geography which he suggests, the teacher should be on
his guard not to convey erroneous ideas to young pupils. In building up
features with sand or clay, e. g., take care that the pupil does not get the idea
that nature builds after the fashion of the teacher. We should think also that
much caution must be observed in using toy houses, horses, carriages, and similar
things to illustrate the work of man on the fiaoe of the earth. But any method,
however perfect, is liable to abuse, if the teacher is not master of his subject and
is devoid of common sense.
652
KEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
LucaSi C« P. — Introduction to an Historictil Geo^phy of the Britiah Coloniea,
Oxford, Ckrendoa Press: 1887, 8 va, pp. xiL and 142, Price is, 6d, [Presented
by tbe Publiabers.]
This is the first volume of what onght to be a nsefiil work. The succeeding
vohimcs, the author teUs us, will be more purely geographical tliao tbepreseat,
and will deal with the sepirate divisions of the empire, Mr, Lucas*s posLlion
in the Colonial Office gives him exceptional opportunities of obtaining certaia
kinds of information. In the present volume he di&cuases certain preliminary
<tnestions of much interest. In bis first chapter he tries to settle what a colony
really is. The second chapter deals ^itb motives for colonisation, which he
thinks are four — love of adventure, desire of wealth, political and social discon-
tent, and religion. In the following chapter Mr, Lucas deals with the subjects
of climate and race ; modes of coloniising and kinds of colonies ; nations which
have colonised, ancient and modem ; English colonisjition ; and changes in the
English colonieB during the llJth century. The volume contains eight page
maps.
HuTf ay, Kenrie B.^ — Commercial Geography^ considered especially in ita relation
to Kew Markets and Fields of Production for British Trade. London, Thomas
C. Jack, [1887] ; 8vo., pp. viii. and 298. Price 2s. M.
This is not a text-book of commercial geography, but rather, as its secondary
title indicates^ a collection of statistics and other data bearing on undevelope^^l
fields for British commerce, Mr. Murray very strangely maintains that com-
mercial geography has nothing to do with old-established States, but only with
uncivilised or recently settled countries. TJvis appears a very narrow view
to take of the field of commercial geography^ which, by the bye, can hardly be
termed a " science " All Europe is included and the United States, while
cx>tuiiderabIo space is devoted to our colonies. So far aa it goes, the book la a
useful Oul lection of facts,
HamEaim, [Br.] Edmimd. — Die Erscheinuugen dcs Erdmagnetismus in ihrer
Abhiingigkeit voni Bau der Erdriode. Stuttgart, Ferdinand Euke, 1887 ; 8vo.,
pp. 78, [Presented by the Author,]
KnrsingTOW, A. T. — Gr. V, Juggarow observatory, Daba Gardens, Vizagapatam.
Beaults of Meteorological Observations, 188G. With an Introduction containing
Astronomical Observations and ihe Explanation of the Reported Results, Calcutta,
T backer, Spink & Co., 1887 : 12 mo,, i>p. 167, plates. [Presented by the Author.]
f enck, [Dr.] Albrecht*— tJeber Denudation der Erdoberflache.— Die alte EheLn-
gletscher anf den Alpcnvorlande. — Der Ausbnicb des Tarawera und Rotomahana
auf Neu-Seeland. — Die Hottinger Breccie. — Bericht iiber eine gemeinsame Excur*
sion in den Buhmerwald, [Presented by the Author.]
The first of these pamphlets by one of the moat eminent of the younger
geographers of Germany, is a lecture delivered to the Vienna Society for Qi©
Advancement of Scientific Knowledige. It is an instructive and suggestive sum-
mary of facts bearing on the very important geographical subject of denudation.
The other pamphlets are reprints of papers, mostly short, from various aerials,
and are mostly of a geological character,
Beade, T, Mellard. — The Origin of Mountain Ranges, considered experimentally,
structurally, dynamically, and in relation to their geological liistory. London,
Taylor and Francis, 1886 : 8vo., pp. xviii, and 359. Price 21«.
Mr, Me Hard Reade has done service in keeping alive a discuasiou on the
origin and formation of mountaias. F«w, we should think, are likely to accept
his theory, and for the geographer, the chief value of his work will be the vast
amount of information he has collected bearing on these most important features
of the earth's surface. What Mr. Eeade*a theory is, may be stated nearly in his
own wonls. Mountain mnges, according to him, are ridgings up of the earth's
crust, which lake place only in areas of great fiedimentatlon. The inciting
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUCATIONS. 66S
cause of the various horizontal and vertical strains ending in the birth of a
mountain range, is the rise of the isogeotherms and consequent increase of
temperature of the new sedimentaries, and that portion of the old crust that
they underlie. The rise of isogeotherms, the direct result of sedimentation, by
a series of reactions detailed in Uie body of the work, evidently, in Mr. Beade's
conception, produces an accumulated temperature much in excess of its normal
effect. The rise of temperature, Mr. Reade tells us, exerts a tendency to expand
the new sedimentaries in every direction, in proportion to their extent and mass.
The tendency to expand horizontally is checked by the mass of the earth's crust
bounding the locally heated area. The expanding mass is therefore forced to
expend its energies within itself; hence arise those foldings of lengthening strata,
repacking of iSds, reversed faults, ridging up and elevating movements which
occur in varied forms, according to the conditions present in each case.
In other words, Mr. Reade tells us, all the phenomena of mountain-building
are the result of local variations in temperature of the earth's crust, caused by the
reaction of surface influences on the heated interior. Every rise of temperature,
whatever its amount, in the locus of a mountain-chain tends to elevation and
permanent ridging up by a lateral displacement of materials. Every fall of
temperature produces a proportionate vertical subsidence of the surface over the
district affected, but as the materials laterally ridged up in mountain ranges
by expansion cannot be drawn back again during contraction, there remains a
permanent total of uplift in the range with every rise of temperature, that can
only be removed by atmospheric denudation. In this way mountain ranges
become permanent features of the earth's surface, notwithstanding the vicissi-
tudes of the larger areal subsidences and elevations that take place, and the
subsidences due to faulting. Such is Mr. Reade's theory of mountain-building,
criticism of which must be left to the geologists and the physicists.
Soundings taken by the India Rubber, Gutta Percha, and Telegraph Works Company,
Limited. 1885-1887. Havana— Key West Expedition, 1885. Second West
African Expedition, 1886 and 1886. Havana— Key West Expedition, 1886.
Congo Repairs Expedition, 1887. 8vo., pp. 23. [Presented by the India Rubber,
Gutta Percha, and Telegraph Works Company, Limited.]
[TTniyersal Geography.] — Unser Wissen von der Erde. Allgemeine Erdkunde
und Landerkundc, herausgegeben unter fachmannischer Mitwirkung von Alfred
Kirchhoff. Erster Band : Allgemeine Erdkunde von Dr. F. Hann, Dr. F. von
Hochstetten und Dr. A. Pokomy. Leipzig, Freytag, 1886 : imp. 8vo., pp. xxiL
and 985. Price 46«.
Landerkunde von Erdteils Europa, herausgegeben unter fachmSnnischer
Mitwirkung von Alfred Kirchhoff. In 2 Teilen. Erster Teil, erste H&lfte:
Europa im allgemeinen von Prof. Dr. A. Kirchhoff. — Physikalische Skizze von
Mittel-Europa, von Prof. Dr. A. Penck. — Das Deutsche Reich, von Prof. Dr. A.
Penck. Leipzig, Freytag, 1887 : imp. 8vo., pp. x. and 618. [Presented by the
Publisher.]
These are the first two volumes of a great work, well begun. One naturally
compares it at first with Reclus' well-known * GiSographie Universelle,' and indeed
Prof. Kirchhoff, the editor of the whole, in the preface makes the comparison him-
self. It is not intended, however, according to the preface, to make this GFerman
woik so extensive as the French one, but so far as we can judge from the
volumes before us, and from the space which will be devoted to Europe, there
is not hkely to be much difference in extent. The apparent difference between ,
these two publications is that while M. Reclus is entirely responsible for his
work, that edited by Professor Kirchhoff will be the production of a number of
specialists. At the same time, it eiiould be remembered that in each section of
his work M. Reclus has also the aid of men who have special knowledge of the
particular regions dealt with. While M. Reclus is above all descriptive, it
seems to us from these two volumes that Professor Kirchhoff and his colleagues
p romise to be markedly scientific, while by no means neglecting description.
654
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PlTBLlCATlOXS.
They will include both landerkuttde and Erdbeachntbunff, This is especially
seen in the second vokmie, devoted mostly to Gennauy, and written by Professor
Penck of Vienna, who justly enjoys among hia coUeagucis a high reputation as
a scientific geographer. He constaiitly seeks to discover the relations wliich
exist between physical coDtlitiona and human development. This will be Been,
for instance, in his treatment of some of the old towns of Southern Germany,
whose position and growth have many of them been detennined by physi<il
conditions ; in the case of some, it must be admitted, their eminence was du©
to other circumBtanceii as well, but the geographical position must first of all be
favourable*
The first volume of this serieii may l>e regarded as introductory, somewhat
analogous to Reclus' ' The Earth * and * The Ocean.* It is, indeed, an elaborate
treatise on physical geography, in which the separate scieaces on which that
deimrtment of geography is based receive detailed treatment. The work, it
should be remembered, is not meant for geographical special ist«, but rather for
the educated public, the teacher, and the student ; hence thero is some excuse
for devoting so much space to geology and biology, a fair knowledge of w^hich,
it must be admitted, is essential to the IhoroughgoiDg student of geography.
The first part of the general volume deals with Astronomical and Physical
Geography, by Dr, Hann, the well-known Auetrian meteorologist. This
includes sectloos on the earth as a planet, terreatrial magnetism, the atmospherct
and the hydrosphere. Thus it will be seen that ** physical geography " is used
here in a somewhat narrow sense, and really ought to include a considerable
portion of what follows. The second part, for example, deals with the solid
crust in its composition, its structure aud its growth, by the late Dr. F* von
Hochstetter. This includes sections on physiography, petrography, and tec-
tonics, temperature of the crust and the interior, dynamical geology or the fbroe*
at work to modify the surface, and historical geology or stratigraphy and
paLfiontology. The third part, by Dr* Alois Pokoroy, deals with biological
gec^raphy or the earth as the dwelling-place of orgauic life. Thus, as wo have
said, this first volume is rather a series of separate treatises on the sciences
related to geography than a connected geographical whole. From a purely
geographical point of view the second volume seems to us more satisfactory than
the first. After an introduction of eighty pages by Professor Kirchhoff, giving a
very clear account of Europe in general. Professor Penck follows with a physical
sketch of Central Euro^)©, in which he traces its development during the three
great geological periotls— Palaaozoic, Mesozoic, aud Cainojsoic; followed by
actions on the evolution of its climate, on the glacial period, and on the intro-
duction of man into Europe. Dr. Penck insists, and rightly, that a sharp line
must bo drawn between Central Europe and Mediterranean Euroj^e, in accord-
ance with the evolution of the two regions. The former owes its present
physiognomy to the ** transgression " of the ocean, the latter to the ingreasion
of the sea, and their present condition is only one phase in a process of evolution
still at work, the end of which cannot be foreseen, since its origin is unknown.
These two sections occupy only 110 pages, the rest of the 600 pagcij being
devoted bo Germany. Professor Penck'a method and principles of treatment
may be learnt from the headings of his various chapters. The first cliapter
deals with the physical geography of the northern face of the Alps and the
neighbouring tableland from which it springs. The two succeeding chapters
deal with the formation and structure of the German Alpine borderland and its
anthropogcography. Three chapters are devoted to the ]>hysical geography, the
formation, aud the anthropogeography of the south-^vestern region of Germany.
After the same manner Professor Penck successively treats of the Central
German mountain region or hilly tableland, the northern circumvallatton of
Bohemia, and the Korth German plain. The volume concludes with a brief
view of the empire as a whole. The volumes abound with the most beautiful
and appropriate illustrations, diagrams, and maps. The picture, however^ at
p. 277, is an unfortunate misrepresentation of the island of Staffa.
:
NEW MAPS. 666
NEW MAPS.
(By J. CoLKSy Map Owator B.a.sO
EUBOPE.
Berlin tind Potsdam. — Spezialkarte der Umgegend von . Scale 1 : 6,000 or
12*2 inches to a geographical mile. Jul Straube. Nebst alphabetische Namens*
Verzeichniss. Berlin, Straube. Price 2b, (Dulau.)
Enrop&iselie Orient — Der . Scale 1 : 1,200,000 or 16 '4 geographical miles
to an inch. Nach den neuesten Quellen bearbeitet und heransgegeben vom k. k.
militar geographischen Institute in Wien, 1887. 4 sheets. Price 7«. 6d,
(Duiau,)
This ;is a very neatly executed map of the Balkan Peninsula and Grecian
archipelago. The heights, which are given in metres, are also indicated by
dififercnt shades of drab, varying with each 500 metres, except in the lower
altitudes and places which are at, or below, sea-leveL In addition to the
explanation of the signs and symbols used in the constrnction of the map, a
table is given containing explanatory notes with reference to the abbreviations
of names and their signification in Grerman.
Le Havre et ses Environs, par L. Leblanc. Nouveau plan de 1887. Le Havre.
Price 1». (Dulau.)
Mittel nnd Siidbayem, Hordtyrol, Salzburg.— Reliefkarte von , nebst den
angrenzenden Gebieten. Scale 1 : 600,000 or 6*8 geographical miles to an inch.
Augsburg, Lampart's Alpiner Verlag. Price 5». (Dtdau,)
Mnnchen. — Neuesten Plan von , Scale 1:10,000 or 7*2 inches to a
geographical mile, von Jul. Straube. Nebst Verzeichniss der Strassen und Platze.
Mdnchen, Mey and Widmayer. Price Is, (^Dulau,)
Oesterreich-TIngam. — ^Verkdirskarte von — und den angrenzenden Landem
von Kussland und der europaischen Turkei. Scale 1 : 250,000 or 17 * 1 geographical
miles to an inch. Nach amtliche Quellen bearbeitet. 6 sheets. Berlin, B^liner
Lithographischen Institut. Price 5ff. {DtUau,)
Sachsen. — Greologischen Spezialkarte der Konigreich . Scale 1 : 25,000 or
2*9 inches to a geographical mile. Heransgegeben vom Finanz-Ministerium.
Bearbeitet imter der Leitung von Hermann Credner. Sect. 142, mit ErlSutenmgen
enthaltend Plauen-Oclsnitz. Geologische Aufnahme von E. Weise und Th. Liebe.
Die Erzgange von H. Mtiller. Leipzig, Engelmann. Price 3«. (DtiZati.)
Schweiz. — Reisekarte der , von H. Keller. Scale 1:400,000 or 5 '6
geographical miles to an inch. ZiLrich, Heinrich Keller's Geograph. Verlag. Price
6s. folded and mounted. (Dulau,)
ORDNANCE SUBVEY MAPS.
Publications iasned during the month of Angost 188T.
l-inoh— General Maps :—
Ekglakd akd Walks : New Series. Kos. lOY (ontUne), 110 (oatline). If. each. '
6-incli— Comity Maps:—
EsQhAiTD Aim Walss; BedforcUhlre : 22 S.E., 27 S.W., 30 N.W.; If. esch. Oaxnbridffe-
shire: 5S.W.,29S.W.;i«.each. Deronsbire: 13S.E.; i«. DorsetshlM : 5 S.E., 24£E.,
33 S.E. ; It. each, aionoestershire : M S.W.; it. Iiinoolzishire : 38 S.E., Ys N.W^N.IL,
142 S.B., 144 N.W., 146 aw., 147 N.E.; If. each. Uerionetlialiire : 6 8.W. : if. Nozfolk :
52 N.W.; It. Somersetshire: 83 SJ:.; if. Staffordshire: 3i K.E.. 65 S.W.,74 N.W.;
It. each. Warwiokshire : 6 &W., 21 N.W., S.W.; If. each. Wiltshire: 23; 21. 6(1.
Worcestershire: 8 N.W. j if.
656
NEW MAPS.
26-tiicli— Piirlih Mnpii— ^
ExoLAKD AKP 'VVJiLZfl: BreokiiockBlilTe ! XXXTUI. 9, 6, Ss. neb. Cam1>ridi?«abire ;
kXXVII. 1, 6. 4#. each ; XXXI. 10, 5*.; XXXI. 13» 14, XXXV. 2. 3t. each; XXXV, 3, 9. 4*. eoih;
XXXV. 10, 3jr.; XXXV. 11, H, IB, 4j. aicli; XXXIX. 3, B, 6, B, 9» 10. 12, 13, U. 15, XL. 3,XLVI,
1, 3, LIT, lU I'i, 16, i», HIL ». 3#. Mch. Cardlg^nshird! VJll. 12. 3*. Carmarthdn-
Bhire: XXVL 9, 3a.; XXXIV. s, 4*. Bevonahire : XIX. 13, XXX. 3, 7, XCIX. i«,CXTI, 3.
4. t, n, CXIII. IB, CXIV. 4, 3*. each j CXIV, 7, 4f.; CXIV. 12. 15, CXXVI. 5, 6. 11, 12, 15, 16,3*. cnch.
JDoTsetslilre : HI. lo, 3*. Gloucestershire : XXVLie, 3f, HerefordaMr© : XIL 9.
4* ; XIK 10, 34.1 ^11- 12, 13. 4*.; XII. 16, XX. 9, XXIV. 12, XXVL<>, 10. XXV!1L4, XXXII. 3, 4,
ai.cKihj XXXH. 7, «#,; XXXill. 2, 31.; XXXIH. 3.4*.; XXXITL 6.3*.; XXXlli. 8. 4i. i XXXJV.
c, 31. HuatiuedonshiTe : XX. 12, le, Lieicestershire: Lll. 3, 4, 8. 3*. each. Are*
Book: Kav<»i]i^ti.iie And Sjiil^ston, U. Lin oolu shire r XU. y, XX. 1. 3«. e*ch; XLV, 12, 8#. «<i,i
LXI. 15, LXni. 9. 3#. tach ; LXXI. 5, 4 J, \ LXXL 10. LXXVH, 5, 3i. each ; CL. 3, 4*.; CL.T.CLI, 1,
CLI. 2, 3*. each. Montgomeryshire: XL le. 4*.; XVL IB, XXVL 9, 11, 13. XL VI, law
34. curb. Norfolk: IL lO, 3ji ; 11. U, 4j,; VUL 3, 5*., XXXIL 3, 16, XL. S, LVL T, IB, l«^
4#. cacb; LXIX. lo, 3*.; LXIX. N. 4*. NorthamptonshLre : VUL 3, 4i. Area Btxjksj
St. GUe» (N wtliflmptmi). St. I'eter (NLrtbaroptou), U, catL K Ot tin g^h am shire t XXVL 5, 3*.
Butlandshire : 3L i, 3/. ; X. 3. as,*, X. T, 3t. Somersetshire: LXXil. 2, 3, b, 4t. cAch;
LXXIL fl, 3*.i LXXIL T, 4«. ; LXXIL 9, a*.; LXXIL 10, 4i.; LXXIL 14. 15, 3*. each j LXXIL 16»
LXXXIL9,10, LXXXIII. 4. 44, each; LXX.MV. 4, 3*.; LXXXIX, 7,4*. Staffordshire: LXIl*
B, 6*. Suffolk: XL 6, 4*.; XX. 10. 5».; LXX. 12, 3*.; LXXXV. 4, 4*. Warwickshire:
XXIII. 3, 4, 6. 7, H, 10, 3*. each ; XXilL 14. 4*. ; XXVIL 2,fi,3*.cach; XXXL 7, XXXIL 6, 4*. each;
XX xn. 1, 3, IB, XXXIV. 10, LI IL 3, e^ 3*, rtcb, Wiltshire : xxnil. 7, h, XLVHL », LL \^
LVTL 1, 7, Id, 11, 13, 16. 3f. i^ach, Worcestershire: XXIV* 1, it.; XJ* 9, ^, j U, 3, a,
3^. eadi. Area Books; AldennlDiber. It.; Blockley, la. 6d,
TO"i»m Plana-^io-feet scale ^—
Ekguoti^ aki> Wales: Lel€€«t<?r. XXXL 14. 4. 2f. Warwick, XXXHI. 9, t». 24. ftS; XXXin.10.,
lis, 17, 1^. 21, 21. 'H i XXXHL 13, 6, 9. 16. Wlabedi, VJL 3. 3. 13, 19, 20, 21. each,
(^Slanfordj Agent}
AFRICA.
Afrika. — Special-Karte von im Massstab von 1 : 4,000,000 ori65*5 geographi-
cal miles to an inch, (10 Blatt.) Entworfeo von Hermanu Habenicht, bearbeitet
von de nisei ben, Bruno Domann und Dr. Eichard Liiddecke, Zweite Anflf^e.
Ill, Liefening, Inhalt: Sektion W^at-Sudan (4) nehst Bemerknngen von B,
Domaun. Sektion Capland (d) nohst Bemerkungen von Dr. B, Liiddecke.
Gotha, Justus Perthes, 18B7. Price 3«. (/>«/a«.)
In this isaiio tbere will be found numerous corrections and additionB, of which
the most imporlimt are the following: — On eheet 4 the boundaries of the
Frencli posaessiona in Senegambia and Foulah have been considerably
extended to the south. The houndnry of the Portuguese poesesBions has been
changed so that they are laid down m including all the territory between Cape
Roxo and the left bank of the Cassini river, while they reach inland to 13^ 45'
west longitude. The boundary of tbe Sierra Leone Government is shifted to
the JoDs river, and British possessions on the Gold Coast are drawn as reaching
to the Assini, and including tbe Sahwi territory. The Nif^er Go.'ti territory
extends much farther up the xiver, and is marked as terminating at Say-
On sheet 9 the most noticeable alteration is in the boundary of the German
poeaessions in South Africa, which are now laid down as extending right across
the continent to the Zambesi, and have been moved from Capo Frio to the
Cunene river, thus including a fajrther extent of territory about seventy geo-
graphical miles wide,
— — Geologische Skizze von , Ton Dr. G, Gurich. Scale 1 : 45,000,000 or
10 degrees to an inch. Petermann's ' Geographtsche Mitteilungen,* Jahrgang
1887, Tafel 13. Justus Perthes, Gotha, (DaZaw.)
Jemando Foo. — Karte der Inael -- — , JNach eigenen AufnahmGn konstniiert
und gezeichnet von Oscar Baumann, Mitglied der I'rof, Dr, Lonz'scben Expedi-
tion nach Aequatoriakfrika 1885-87. Scale 1 ; 200,0C)O or 2 ^7 geographical miles
to an inch. Pctcrmann'a * Geographische Mitteilungen/ Jahrgang 1887, Tafel
14. Justus Perthes, Gotha. (Dtdau,)
Madsg-askara.— Sarin-Taniny . Natonta Fanintelony. F. F- M, A* Antana-
narivo, 1887, Scale 1 : 1,7 00^000 or 2G'9 geographical miles to an inch.
Nalainy Wm. Johnson tamy ny nataon*ny Mpizaiia-tany maro, aady nampiany
no nahitsing. On rollers, varnished,
Od commring this map with one published hj the same author ten years
ago, some idea may be formed of the progress made in our knowledge of the
:
NEW MAPa 657
geography of Madagascar bIdco that time ; this is especially noticeable in all the
central districts of the island. The map has been lithographed at the Friends
Mission Press, Antananarivo, and is in all respects a most creditable production.
Zaire. — Embocadura do — . Beoonhecimento Hydrographioo para lan^amento
do cabo submarine 1886. Scale 1: 750,000 or 10 '3 geographical miles to an
inch. CommissSs de Cartographia. Lisboa, 1887. (DtUau.)
AMERICA.
British Columbia. — Indexed Map of — , with a new and original compilation
and Index. Scale 1 : 2,400,000 or. 32 '8 geographical miles to an inch. Hand,
McNally & Co. Chicago. (Trubner.)
United States.— Indexed County and Township Pocket Map and Shippers' iQuide
of Arkansas. Scale 1 : 1,300,000 or 17' 8 geographical miles to an inch.
Ditto, ditta Colorado. Scale 1 : 1,480,000 or 20*2 geographical miles to
an inch.
Indexed County and Eaihroad Pocket Map and Shippers' Guide of Connecti-
cut. Scale 1 : 560,000 or 7*6 geographical miles to an inch.
Indexed County and Township Pocket Map and Shippers' Guide of Florida.
Scale 1 : 1,600,000 or 21*9 geographical miles to an inch.
Indexed County and Railroad Pocket Map and Shippers' Guide of Georgia.
Scale 1 : 1,365,000 or 18*7 geographical miles to an inch.
Official Map of the Indian Territory. Scale 1 : 750,000 or 10*2 geographi-
cal miles to an inch.
Indexed County and Railroad Pocket Map and Shippers' Guide of Kentucky.
Scale 1 : 1,500,000 or 20*4 geographical miles to an inch.
Indexed County and Township Pocket Map and Shippers' Guide of Louisiana.
Scale 1 : 1,500,000 or 20*4 geographical miles to an inch.
Ditto, ditto. Hew Hampshire. Scale 1 : 590,000 or 8 geographicalXmiles
to an inch.
Indexed County, Township and Sectional Pocket Map and Shippers' Guide of
Ohio- Scale 1 : 635,000 or 8*7 geographical miles to an inch.
Indexed County and Railroad Pocket Map and Shippers' Guide of South.
Carolina. Scale 1 : 2,000,000 or 27 geographical miles to an inch.
Indexed County and Township Pocket Map and Shippers' Guide of TJtah.
Scale 1 : 1,430,000 or 19 '6 geographical miles to an inch.
Ditto, ditto. Wyoming. Sdale 1 : 1,120,000 or 15*3 geographical miles to
an inch. Published by Rand, McNally & Co. Chicago. (Triibner,)
These all belong to Rand, McNally & Co.'s series of tourists' maps ; they
each contain a copious index, with reference letters and numbers, by which the
position of any place on the map is easily found. Being handy in size and
clearly lettered, they are very well suited to the purpose for which they are
published.
ATLASES.
Berghaus' Physikalischer Atlas (begriindet 1836 von Heinrich Berghaus). —
75 Karten in sieben Abteilungen, enthaltend mehrcre hundert Darstellungen iiber
Geologic, Hydrographie, Meteorologie, Erdmagnetismus, Pflanzenverbreitung,
Tierverbreitung und VOlkerkunde. Vollstandig neu bearbeitet xmd unter Mit-
wirkung von Dr. Oscar Drude, Dr. Greorg Gerland, Dr. Julius Hann, Dr. G.
Hartlaub, Dr. W. Marshall, Dr. Georg Neumayer, und Dr. Karl v. Zittel, heraus-
gegeben von Professor Dr. Hermann Berghaus. Elfte Lieferung, Inhalt : Nr. 33,
Isobaren im Januar. 44, Florenreiche. 73, Amerika um 1880. Titel und
Yorbemerkungen zum AUas der Pflanzenverbreitung. Zwolfte Lieferung, Inhalt :
668
NEW MAPS.
Nr. 2, Tiefiander. 34, Isobanen im Juli, 58, Kafer, Titel imd Yorbemerkongen
znm Atlas der Mcteorologie, Gotlia, Justm Pert1ie% 1887. Price 3$, eacli port.
Sheet No, 33 contains a Mercator's projection of tlie Worltl, on which i» laid
down isobars, and arrows indicating the direction of prevailing winds tlirougli-
out tho world during the month of January ; aiid three smaller inset meteoro-
logical mapei, one ghowing the isobars in Enrop, on an enlarged scale, in
January, another exhibiting thone of the Korth Polar region, also on a larger
Ec;alc, during the Bame monlh, and a third the mean lowest reiidings of the
world, drawn on a greatly reduced scale. Sheet No. 44 contains a set of
botanical maps, exhibiting the t^ons of the different flora of the world; they
are drawn on Lambert's projection. On sheet No. 73 ib shown the distribution
of races in North and South America in 1880. Thejse are most interesting
maps, hut llie number of shades of colour and the numerous symbols which it
has been fouud necessary to employ are somewhat confusing. Sheet No. 2
shows the depressions below sea-leveh Sheet Na 34 is a set of meteorological
maps for July, in which the scheme of production corresponds to that already
described with reference to Map No. 33. Sheet 58 contains six maps, showing
the distribution of genera of Coleoptora throughout the world.
Ireland. — Pocket Atlas of . By J. Bartholomew, f.r,o.9. With Index and
GeographicaL Statistical Notes, London, John Walker & Co., 1887. Price 1*.
Schweiz. — Topographischer Atlas der Schweiz im Mass tab der Original-Aufnahmen
nach dem Bundesgesetze vom 18. Dezember 1868, durch das eidgenoBsische
Statsbiirean nnter der Direktion Ton Oberst Siegfried veroffentlicht. XXXI.
Lieferung (1 : 25,000). Nr. 80, Heiden. 169, Triengen. 170, Meisterschwanden.
172, Keinach. 173, Merenschwand. 188, Semi ach. 1^1| 2ug. 193, Aegeri.
271, Balgach. 272, Oberriet. 285, Coocise. XXX. Lieferang. (1 : 25,CX)0)
Eheiofelden. 171, Muri. 179, Mdchnsu. 181, Huttwih 224, Appenzell,
237, Stockberg. 255, Buchs. 267, Mela. 268, Sargans. 270, Kagaz. 34e,
Farvagny. 385^ Schwarzenegg. Bern, Schmid, Prancke & Cie. (vormala Buch-
handlung Dalp, Eahnhofplatz). Price 12«» Gcf. each part. {Didau.)
Fncrowded Atlas of Political Oeography^ — The being an atlas specially
prejmrtd for school u^e, and whicli giires in each map only the geographical
information scholars should possefis, and no more* By T, Iluddimaa Johnston,
F.R.n.ft. Containing twenty-four maps and astronomical diagrams. London,
Kuddiman Johnston & Co., Limited. Price Is,
In this atlas all mountain ranges are represented by black lines, and the
maps contain so few names that in some cases they are little moro than
skeletons. The author does not seem to have grasped the difference there is
between an overcrowded map and one which, while containing nothing un-
necessary, shall at the same time convey to the mind of tho Bcholar a ctirrect
notion of the general physical features of the country, the x*o«itiona of centres of
mannfactnre, and the chief towns of counties or deimrtnients. This cannot be
done by indicating a tableland or wide range of hilla by a black line, which can
only tend to give a child a very erroneous idea of the country.
V t ^jf S
Silly wnadsi e^ut^trpf
w iL^m. J
IfC
IS'
^^
PROCEEDINGS
OF THB
EOYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
AND MONTHLY RECORD OF GEOGRAPHY.
Notes on a Sketch Map of two BoiUes in the Eastern Desert of Egypt.
By Ernebt a. Floybb, p.l.b.
Map, p. 730.
There is in the region nnder description mncli that differs widely from
the Egypt of the ordinary traveller. It is a district of lofty mountains,
of valleys wrapped in snow, of keen morning mists, of water&lls
springing from ambushes of tall reeds, of crystal pools mirroring the
stately heads of ibex, and of grottoes hid ih maidenhair fern. These
things seem strange in the land of dull mud fiats, the featureless and
woodless land, where an evil-smelling temple is substituted for a hill,
and the " forests " of dates supply food to a kind-hearted but eminently
prosaic population.
The roughly oblong stretch of country of which the top comers are
Cairo and Suez, and ; which stretches down between the Nile and the
Red Sea to Assuan and Berenice, which are the bottom comers, presents
the same general characteristic throughout. It is a mountainous desert,
150 miles broad, rising slowly from the Nile over sandy wastes* and
secondary hills for about a hundred miles, where the elevation is
2000 feet. Down the centre runs a main range or backbone of granite
and primary rocks. From this the desert slopes more steeply and more
evenly to the sea, over shingly plains and sometimes low secondary and
tertiary ranges to the coral of the sea-coast. The eastern side of the
watershed is, as might be guessed, more often blessed with rain than
the western. On the seaward side during the winter months heavy
clouds hang round the summits, until with thunder and violent winda
they pour in torrents down the barren mountain clefts, and fill the
granite dells and basins with an ample supply for the scanty fiocka
during the summer. The western side remains for the most part a hot,
dry, scorched-up, sunny waste. Always the same. One wishes for no
twilight after a long day's ride from the Nile banks to the foot of the
mountains, but is content with the almost sudden darkness after sunset,
which is one of the great points of difference between an English and
No. XI.— Nov. 1887.] 8 a
G60
NOTES ON A SKETCH MAP OF TWO ROUTES
an Egyptian day. The ram-clou ds which hnrst on the lofty granite
anmmits are not, however, entirely reatrioted to the seaward side. The
Nile side has its picturesque ravines, its tree-sprinkled nullahs, its
waterfalls and granite basins. But the seaward side is steeper and
stonier, and the gullies show a deeper erosion, and a wilder commotion
among the water- worn bonlders, than the sand-choked wadiea which
wind their rihbon of stunted mimosas down to the Nile.
Wilkinson has described many of its antiquities, while its modem
asi>ect has been treated by Herr Klunzinger, and my friend Professor
Schweinfurth has laid out the country in wadies or torrent-beds, one of
which he explores whenever he can spare time from his other multi-
farious pursuits. This system of marching up the various wadies is the
only system hy which the country can be practically explored. So
'fantastically rugged and chaotio are the mountains of the main range
that you can only follow where water shows you the way. And the
traveller wiU not long forget that water leaps down a precipice which
gives him considerable trouble to climb up.
The Bedawin inhabitants are to the north the Ma*iza tribe, who
live in goatVhair tents, and despise the comparatively civilised Ababdi
who live south of a line drawn east from Kenneh, and who occasionally
build themselves huts of mats.
The prominent features of a Bcdawi are courage, endurance, and
avarice. Avarice is the quality most deeply engrained, but it is not a
10 preach to them. It is simply Belf-preservation. I should say that the
Ma'aza have a harder struggle for existence than the Ababdi, and cling
to their view of a money transaction with proportionately greater
tenacity* The former speak a singularly pure Arabic, and their arti-
culation is beautiful. Some of the Arabic plurals of tribal names are
curious. An Abidi is one of the Ababdi tribe ; a Hendua is one of the
Hadendowa tribe. The Ababdi are perhaps the pleasanter tribe to deal
withj but all Bedawin are tough parties in a money transaction. The
relations between the tribes and the Government are for the most part
tranquil. The local governor of a Nile town requires a Bedawi sheikh
to live in his town* This man is nominally responsible for the behaviour
of his tribe, while in return all camel contracts are made through him.
Beiine this position as a hostage, agent, i}olitical resident— gild the
pill how you will— no self-respecting Bedawi will live in a town or
associate with its governor. The man sent by the tribe is generally
some old man, in whose character there is a flaw*
If one reflects on the conditions of Bedawi exiatence, it is obvious
that the highest conceivable standard of honesty is a first and absolut©
essential.
A Bedawi is not generally supposed to have much property, but he
is distinctly a property-owning creature. His gun and his camel-saddle
he keeps with him ; but in nine cases out of ten his wife would take care
IN THE EASTERN DESERT OF EQTPT. 661
that he did not have a very expensiye gun, until she had got at least a
•cooking-pot and a flat metal baking-platter.
A Bedawi leayes his women, children, and property for months at a
time ; when his camels are grazing he takes off their saddles and puts
ihem nnder a bnsh ; he deposits a bag of beans by the way, for his camel
io eat on the return journey. If these things were impossible, he could
not carry on his struggle for existence. A thief is only possible where
ihere are locks and bars. There are always weaker vessels who in an
unguarded moment *'find" a camel rein, and such people gravitate
towards the river bank. This class supplies the resident agents, and it
may be readily imagined that sa long as the governor could draw money
to suppress Bedawin raids, so long were the dreadful Bedawin spoken
-of with bated breath, and their numbers and fierceness ludicrously
exaggerated.
Public security is not, however, dependent on the Bedawin since
Baker Pasha and his police took up their duties in Upper Egypt.
The young men of both the IMDa'aza and Ababdi wear their hair in
the fuzzy fashion rendered familiar during the Suakin campaign, but it
is always under some special circumstances, and usually a white scanty
turban is worn by young and old.
It seems probable that the Eastern desert was the scene of the esta-
blishment of the first monasteries in the world* Those of St. Anthony
and St. Paul are still visited by travellers. They are about 9 miles
apart, and about 17 from the coast in latitude 29°, while in the two
routes which I shall more particularly describe are found the remains of
others, which, so far as I have been able to investigate, date from the
fourth or fifth century of the Christian era.
The part of the country, however, which has the most ancient record
is the old trade route between Kosseir, on the Bed Sea, and Eoptos
(modem Euft), on the Nile.
This road, which two thousand years ago carried almost the whole
traffic between the East and West (between Borne and India), has very
great natural advantages. Sooner than sail the long voyage up to Suez,
Sir David Baird marched across it in July 1801, and only lost 3 men out
of, 80 far as I can read, 5000, of which 700 were English. He dug two
wells, but his expedition nearly failed through the rottenness of his
waterskins, than which there is no more futile vehicle for water.
Later on, in 1839, the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation
•Company carried their passengers and mails across from Eenneh to
Kosseir. In a diary of an ancestor in India, I find him in 1826 praising
the rapidity with which letters had arrived by this new route. The com-
pany rebuilt some of the wells, and over the entrance to the Sayala well
is a well-cut inscription as follows : — " M. E. Bbigqs. W. I. Hancock.
Tho. Wood. May 25, 1839." I think these are evidently the names of
masons employed. The route £rom Kosseir td Kenneh, 111 miles long,
3a 2
662
NOTES ON A SKETCH MAP OF TWO ROUTES
divides into two roads, called respectiTely the Kussafa and the Sikka
road (Baird'e road) ; but from all I can leani» a description of the KuBsafa
road will serve for both.
It was in Feb mar j 1886 that, on my return from Suakin, I landed
at Kos&eir. The populatiou of 2500 were much astouiBhed at the near
approach of a large English steamer, a sight which had not been seen
since 1864, when an enterprising cable company laid short lengths of
cable down the Red Sea, and built a temporary station at Kosseir,
Numerous flags were hoisted, and almost the whole population came to
the shore to meet me. I itistalled myself in the large Government house,
where the governor was most hospitable, though be was such a small,
aged, and inconsequential little man that he really appeared to have
been accidentally discovered by my servants while dusting out a room,
for me to sleep in. From the appearance of the houscj I never for a
moment supposed it was inhabitedj and ordered my people to sweep it
out for me, under the impression that it had not been occupied for a
hundred years or eo. But we were neither of ua greatly disconcerted,
and after coffee we explored his town together.
Although the water-supply is brought from a distance of ten hours,
we found a busy littlo town, and new houses were in coui-se of construc-
tion from the coarse soft coral which forms the coast, while the huge
empty granarieB were memorials of the time when the Egyptian tribute
was paid in grain to the Turkish soldiers in Arabia, and was shipped
hence in native boats to Jeddab and Yambo, on the opposite coast. The
fort was built by Belliard and Donzeld, and in 1800 played havoc with
a detachment of marines from H.M.S. Fvx^ who appear to have landed
in ignorance of its existence, and were cut to pieces. It contains a
curious relic of the French occupation in a mortar dated '* Messidor de
Tan 3 de la Eepublique Fran^aise."
I think the repaired well, with its homely and rather cockney inscrip-
tion, is characteristic of the plain and practical impress England leaves
upon a country. If we were to leave Egypt to-morrow wo should leave
the corvi^ abolished, a measure which makes no show, but which is of
as unmixed a benefit in its results as even the abolition of slavery, the
great object which the Khedive of Egypt is slowly but surely attaining.
KoBseir is situated on the northern bank of the broad water-course, or
Khor Ambagi. During rain this brings down a heavy flood of sweet
water, which, however, all runs into the sea. And on this point Klun-
zinger has a theory, wliich 1 mention that it may receive fuller investiga-
tion. He thinks that the ancient ports on the Ked Sea were all opposite
mouths of similar water-courses, and tbat the harbours were formed by
the sweet water killing the coral, and thus forming a break in the reef,
which otherwise ran in a continuous line along the coast.
A mile to the south^west^ in the main bed of the river, is a small
garden with twelve date-trees in it, but beyond this there is no vegeta-
IN THE EASTERN DESERT OP EGYPT. 663
tion but sea-weed, and how the 200 goats which exist are maintained is
a puzzle.
One day sufficed to exhaust the sights of Kosseir, though Klunadnger
spent eight happy years among the fishes, sea-weeds, tiie rooks, and
sparse flora of the neighbourhood. Six picked camels were waiting for
me, and the next morning I started off, full of the pleasurable excite-
ment of a new route.
We started up the Ehor Ambagi, and soon entered into the mountains.
This is an excessively barren part of the world, and in seventy miles
I only saw two species of plants, neither of which were camel fodder,
and all of which were burnt to tinder; for it was four years, the
natives said, since any rain had fallen. But the most striking feature
is the goodness of the road through the mountains. The idea is con-
stantly suggested that it is artificial, though a closer examination
dispels this ; and Strabo and other ancient writers mention the road as
an ordinary desert track. I can convey the best idea of it by describing
something else.
A horseman travelling in middle Egypt in the hot weather, finds the
narrow donkey-paths winding between the fields very irksome to his
horse. The surface of the fields themselves is baked into deep crevasses,
making them dangerous to ride over, so that short cuts cannot be made.
The banks which control the inundation wind about so much as to
sometimes nearly double the distance from point to point. He is glad
therefore when he finds a canal which has just been cleaned out and
which runs in the direction he is travelling. He descends into the bed
and finds himself in a perfectly level road, perhaps 100 feet wide, the
edges accurately cut, while on either side is a miniature mountain-range
formed by the banks of the canal, and the loose earth which has recentiy
been dug from the bed.
Petrify this dry canal into granite, substitute a gradual incline for a
dead level, make it wind slightly instead of running straight, and you
have an exact reproduction on a small scale of the seventy-mile
mountainous portion of the Bussafa route. One is tempted to describe
it as smooth and well kept. The western forty miles stretches over a
fairly hard shingly plain, diversified with low undulating ridgies ; and
with the exception of two rather steep defiles, each of 200 yards, an
omnibus — ^indeed many omnibuses abreast— might trot the whole
distance from the Nile to the Bed Sea.
There is little to be seen that is not properly transferred to the
itinerary. Down in a trough you rarely see far to the right or left A
glimpse now and then shows you nothing but hills, from which, if you
try to select one as a landmark, you will be hidden by the next turn in
the valley.
One can keep up an even four miles an hour over the smooth road,
and the compass and road-book are always busy. In the evening, as
664
KOTES ON A SKETCH MAP OF TWO ROUTES
dusk approacheB, rocks asenme fantaBtic shapes, and shadows »eem to
move. Tlien from the storehouse of your mind, you may people the
valley with tho varied crowds, which, thousands of times, have filled its
rocky windings. It may be an endless chain of silent-foot efi camels,
each can-ying his two goat's-hair sacks of wheat straddled upright
across his hack. These plod past with a resistless and munotonou&
swing, and you wonder how the ten or twelve wiry little men caii
possibly look after the iive or sir hundred camels. But a caravan of
wheat requires but little attetition. When they halt, the camel kneels^
the toggles which fasten the bales are nnalipped, and the camel walks
away. To load up, the camel is made to kneel between the sacks ; one
is raised slightly by two men, the toggle is slipped in, and the camel
rises with his load, and wanders off after those who have already
started* It is with European miscellaneous baggage and over an uneven-
road which causes the packages to shift, that camel4oading is a tedious
operation.
What did a caravan along tho Russafa route two thousand years ago
look like? The sun, the rocks, the regular valley road are the same.
Tho men are the same* There is no doubt. I think, that the Ababdi,,
with whom we are riding, are tho Blemmyos of Strabo's history, Tho
caravan would he going the other way, the bales being of valuable
silks and perfumes would be smaller than the wheat sacks. They
would be like the bales which are to-day sent from tho silk-looms of
Yezd to the sea-coast, long aqnare-Bectionod bales, thickly wrapped in
many folds of goat's-hair cloth. And instead of six men there would
be sijc hundred, with javelins instead of matchlocks, for each of tho
bales is worth dOf, Sharpe, in his history, says the Egyptians in the
time of Hadrian, a.d. 120, sent coarse linen, glass bottles, brazen vessels,
brass for money, iron for weapons ^ while they received ivory, steely
Indian ink, silk, slaves, tortoiseshellr myrrh, and other scents.
At every five or six miles aloi g tho valley is the remains of a khan
or caravansera* They are much in niins, but I should think that each
would accommodate a hxindred camels with their loads and attendants*
Thus the road would acconimodate a cafUa of 2000 camels, a stately
procession resembling that which leaves Yezd once a year for Bunder
Abbass.
Perched on the summits of the^hilla round each khan are little watch-
towers, from which the watchmen announced the approach of a cafila,
and perhaps, but rarely I should think, a raid by robbers. The sur-
rounding chaos of hills coiild never have supported a band numerous
enough to attack a well-guarded caravan.
In the month of February you face a cool invigorating breeze ; yon
can speak of a bright sun without associations of blistered face and
hands; every turn in the valley may disclose something interesting;
your camels swing along without ui ging, and at every mile you xis^
IN THE EASTERN DESERT OF EGYPT.
m
into a purer and brisker atmoapbere. At forty-one mileB you reach tbe
narrow steep defile of Abti Faoana, where the aneroid shows 1900 feet,
and whence yon slowly descend. Yon will probably camp for the night
at Sid, a fine gorge choked with huge blocks of black and white granite
containing a little pictnresqne nook of sweet water.
From Sid you start down a broad coach-road, and soon enter a fine
gorge, called the Mesagb El Bagar. Hero are traces of the Greeks and
the Eomans, who, there seems little doubt, 2000 years ago worked the
quarries which had been abandoned by the Egyptians 3000 years
previously. It requires an effort to appreciate the antiquity of things
Egyptian. Here the irrepressible tourist has been carving his name
and disfiguring the ancient quarries. But the tourists* names are
Cambysesj Darius, and Xerxes, and they carved their names 2400 years
ago. At Oxford you may see crumbling old carvings which are
150 years old. A samplo of the breccia, or pudding-stone, from Hamma-
mat, has been prepared for mo by the kindness of my friend, Mr.
Brindley^ the modem builder of temples.
On leaving Hammaraat the road emerges from the mountains, and
foUows a broad shallow wadi over undulating shingly plains for
28 miles, when you leave it on the left, and halt at a village called
El Gaita. This valley is the Wadi Zeidun, which reaches the river
near Kopt^s, and may very likely be the canal to the Nile, on which
Straho says Koptos was situated.
These Ababdi Bedawin are so civilised, that here they have a vUlag©
of forty brick huts, a few patches of corn and date palms^ many brackish
wells, and some good ones. El Uaita is a more important place than it
seems. It is, in its way, what Burton described Suez as, a jumping-off
place from civilisation* It is a good twenty miles away from the edge of
the Bif, the general name of the cultivated Nile valley, and has an
ample supply of good water. It served as a starting-point for the
Kosseir route, and also for the ancient route to Berenice. This last was
one of the six great military roads in Egypt, and was well provided with
khans and water.
The violent north winds which prevail in the Bed Sea made the
navigation so difficult and slow for the poor «hips of the ancients, that
2200 years ago, Ptolemy Philadelphus established the port of Berenice.
This is 200 miles south of tho ancient ports at or near Kosseir, and
consequently saved that distance and its attendant delays and dangers
to the mariners from Southern Arabia fiud India* I suppose the best
oatnels and tho worst ships would choose Beit^nice, while the best ships
and the worst camels would carry the Kosseir traffic. For it is interest-
ing to note that Philadelphus, at the same time that he built Berenice,
also rebuilt the old Kosseir port, and Myos Hormos, a third port still
higher up the coast, was still kept in repair^ In modem days,
luxurious steamers, steaming 300 miles a day, compote with Pullman
666
NOTES ON A SKETCH MAP OF TWO ROUTES
cara, which go 700 milea a day; In former days it is probable that
many a sea-sick travollcr, buffeted by contrary %\indfl, joyfully landed
at Berenice, and took the twelve days' camel journey sooner than con-
tinue in his cramped ship, just as now thoy disembark at Brindisi
instead of Venice.
But there is little of interest left in the Berenice road now, and
Captain Colson, who janrneyed there in 1878, found little to record but
the ruined Imltiug-places and choked wells.
From El Gaita the traveller will probably find the road uninterest^
ing, and he will speed off to tho **rif.'* But, if possible, he should
arrange to arrive at tho Xile in the eveningi and thug enjoy one of the
richest visions that ever 6teei>ed his senses in delight.
Some people exult in the desert, are inspired by its air, moved to
emotion by its rugged mountain solitudes, and stimulated even by the
vigour of its absolute sterility. Such men draw pleasure from all
things alike — from the bracing tonic of the desert, and from tho soft
indolence of the Nile valley's wealth of verdure. Otiiers will think of
Socrates, afi be rubbed his leg, and say, " What is pleaanro but release
from pain ? '* And it is true, that though the Englishman is the only
man who travels unmoved alike in tho hottest and the coldest parts of
bis planet, still there are many Englishmen whoso functions are most
perfectly fulfilled in their own island, and who wish neither barren
desert nor fertile valley.
Volumes Lave been written in praise of the Nile vaUey by those
who have reached it in luxurious vessels, which have borne them swiftly
from their sylvan homes in the loveliest country in the world. What
must be the feelings of him who has spent a month or two on the Bed
Sea, and then reaches it across the Russafa road ?
As you approach from the east you see long cliffs which back the
river, and a line of haze marking its course. StiH the sandy shingle
you are riding over might be at Kosseir for any signs it shows of neigh-
bourhood to tho bountiful Nile. At last you rise over the last low
ridge — one more step, and you are in a sea of clover of the richest green.
AVhat a pleasant homely prospect lies before you I The sun is setting
in a crimson haze over a rich plain dotted with houses and with villages ;
men, women, and children troop along the narrow paths, laughing
and talking, driving their cows and sheep before them. A soft, warm
moisture steals over your sunburnt cheek, you draw in one deep draught,
and the vigorous condition to which the desert air and the swift ride
have braced you, all melts away in that first breath, and you are undone.
But it is a delicious undoing. The scent of clover, the cheerful talk, the
broad good-natured faces, and last, but not least, tho friendly groaning
of a hundred w^aterwheeis, dotted all over the plain— everything murmurs,
'* Lay you down and sleep ; why this hard riding ; why this pestilential
energy ? " Yonder, made glorioua by the setting sun, lies hundred-gated
IN THE EASTERN DESERT OF EGYPT.
667
Thebes, and here we will stop. The prophet, when he looked down
upon the beautiful gardens of Bamascus, turned him about and departed.
What he said was that he could only go to on© Paradise, and he preferred
to wait for tJie other. What avo feel is, that the Luxor Hotel, oven
when kept by Mr, Cook, does not require description here.
We bave gone south-west to see the sunset over the rich broad plain
of Thebes, Wo wished to strike the Kile vaOey at right angles, and
thus plunge headlong into it,, instead of approaching it obliquely and
making the disen chant men t gradual. But our way from El Gaita lies
north-west. Seventeen miles brings us to Bir Ambar, a village on the
edge of the "rif" and the desert. Thence ten miles along the edge of
the fields bring us to the large and once important town of Eenneh.
From Keuneh we have yet before us the most interesting route, and
we enter upon ground which was briefly described by Mr*, later on Sir
Gardner, Wilkinson in 1830. North-east from here, or, to be more exact,
from Koft, now a village near here, runs another trade route, by which
the merchandise landed at Myos Hormos arrived in Egypt* By tbia
route /Elius Gallus, the Koman general, returned from his unsuocessful
expedition to Arabia 1000 years ago, after Syllaus, King Obadas* crafty
minister, had led him a wild-gooso chase over the most inhospitable
deserts of Arabia. The valley behind Kenneh drains the western slopes
of a hundred miles of mountains ; and as a curious instance of the power
of even infrequent water persevering through long cycles, large pebbles
of primary rock may be picked up in its bed which have travelled not less
than 50 miles. Along this road came the groaning carts conveying the
rich red porphyry from the quarries of what is now Jebel Dukhan, the
mountain of smoke. I do not feel sure that the granite was ever brought
in large quantities from the granite quarries of Jebel Fatireh ; but it
was along this road that the unhappy convicts struggled to their dreary
labours, or perhaps bounded joyously along after having completed their
labours ; for in those days it seems that men were condemned to excavate
so many feet of griinite as now they are condemned to pick so many
pounds of oakum.
Starting from Kenneh in a northerly direction, yon notice that for a
mile the debouchement of the Wadi Kenneh, along which the route lies,
bears a rich crop of corn, and several wells of good water are found near
the Coptic burying-ground at the head of the cultivated land. Here is
the ruin of a house built by Mr. Libhy some twenty years ago, when he
supervised the supply of provisions to the Marquis de Baasano while
the latter was excavating sulphur from Jimseh, on the Red Sea. The
woodwork was all torn down and burnt during the great "year of
hunger," 1878, when Mr. Baird, of Uri, went up the Nile to distribute
the Khedive*s bounty to his suffering but patient people*
Thence you follow the wadi up a broad shingly plain skirting the
eastern fiank of some low secondary hills, and at 12 miles you find that
668 NOTES ON A SKETCH MAP OF TWO ROUTES ■
the water- oouTBfi sweeps round a low bluff of pudding-etone, where very
little water ib found 12 feet below the surface. As you approach this
Bir ArraSt or Arras well, you seo quiveriog and shiftiug under the
burning sun what appears to be some Bedawi goat's-hair tents. They
are, however, no tenta, bat a curious example of how soil is made. For
some miles, a number of tamarisks, encouraged by the water held up
beneath the soil by the bluff befoi'e mentioned, have for many years
pushed a struggling existence. The spiniform leaves of successiv©
autumns have fallen round each buahj and bound the sand together.
Between the mounds thus formed, the water has washed away the sand,
leaving them as rocks on a sandy beach. At a distance they look so
exactly like a Bedawi encampment, that one reflects whether, like the
sandgrouse, bustard, and many other animals, the Bedawi has not
sometimes owed his safety to the difficulty in distinguishing his camp
from a clump of tamarisk.
The wadi winds, but you ride straight on to Kasr ol Jin, the *' fort
of the evil spirit,'* which is perched on a spur of the hill 27 miles north
of Kenneh. This is the first Eoman station ; but there h little left but
remains of massive walls and deep stuccoed wells. The w^alls of all
these stations aro built for the first four or five feet of large stones,
without mortar, and the upper walls of hard mud.
The intending ti'aveller will be Bared much trouble by the map
published with this paper. Before starting on this journey in May,
1886, I made the most careful Inquines I could, but could get no
information that would stand cross-examination. The watering-places
were many ; but it was four yeara since the last rain fell, and no one
knew whether or not they were dry. All that appeared certain was
that there was no water for a hundred miles, while the wind in May
was very hot, and always in our faces. My caravan started by itself
with many wateT*tankfi, and I was independent with my usual five or
six picked fast camels. In the summer the sun's declination north is^
about equal to the latitude, and there is no atom of shade.
But the difiSculties were greatly exaggerated ; for^ as will be seen,
there is at all times an ample water supply within 70 miles of Kenneh.
And a Zennoh camel will carry his load 70 miles in even the hottest
winds, while a riding-camel can do fair work for five days without
water.
With my light cavalry]^! visited all the water-holes I could hear of,
making a specially long and futile detour to the Bir Nejllah, ten miles
to the west of Kasr el Jin ^ but which I foimd dry like all the others.
At 30 miles from Kenneh is tho second Boman station, called Saghi
or Naka al Teir. It is probable that there was a station between Koft
and Kasr el Jin; but I did not see it^ and only count those I saw.
Kaka*al Teir, which is tho name of the district, was a large
caravansera, much like the Persian caravansera of to-day. A large
IN THE EASTERN DESERT OF EGTPT. 669
quadrangtilar enclosrire, stables, and living rooms all round, and a well
or cistern in the centre. From the width of the cistern it wonld seem
that the Bomans had to dig very deep before they found water, but all
is now choked with sand.
The plain for ten miles north of Naka'al Teir is an absolutely flat
expanse of dry, hard mud. And on a hot afternoon it is a very long ten
miles, for already at Naka'al Teir the rider sees the hills quivering
before him, but at ten miles' distance they look as far or as near as they
do at one mile.
From the east comes a wadi which joins the Kenneh Wadi, and is
said to come from Fatireh and the quarries of Mons Claudianus ; but
this required further examination, for two Roman stations in the Medisa
valley seem to indicate that as the route taken.
At last;, at 46 miles, the rider enters the low granite hills at the Bal
el Mukhanij. The hills have a calcined or decayed appearance, like all
the low hills which cluster round the main range and loffcy peaks of
comparatively live granite, which appear to have been recently thrust
up through them. The vegetation increases at once, and the now
confined bed of the wadi bears the fragrant artemisia, tavemiera, and
many other shrubs, in addition to the stunted mimosa and zilla thistles
which have hitherto marked its course. The interest of the ride is at
once increased a hundredfold ; the eye is relieved from the monotonous
waste, and fixed on the peaks of Om Sidr and Jebel Dukhan, now looking
cool in the blue distance.
I may mention here a hint about carrying water in the desert, which
has twice proved of value. The traveller should pay great attention to
an ample provision of water-skins, insist on the addition of one or two
to any number the Bedawin propose to carry, and display great anxiety
about their lasting out. But he should secretly cany his own supply
in strong bottles wrapped in his blankets in his servants' saddlebags.
I always carry four commissariat rum-bottles. Bedawin are absolute
children about economising their water, and their water-skin is about
the least efficient thing that could be devised for carrying water in.
People say it keeps the water cool. But you do not want cool water in
the desert — you want water and not an empty skin. I never drink on
the march, except when I halt and make hot tea. On this occasion, on
the fourth day, the Bedawin had drunk all the water; they did not
know when they would find any more, and were ill-tempered, and
wanted to ride back and meet the caravan. I gave them a drink, and
was amused to hear one, evidently ignorant of my temperance habits,
remark to a servant, ** We knew he had bottles, but thought they were
brandy." The real danger of thirst is not to the man, but to his camel,
for if the camel droops, the man in walking soon gets an intolerable
thirst; though even under these circumstances a man can go on much
longer than would be expected.
670
NOTES ON A SKETCH MAP OF TWO ROUTES
Winding along the avenue of hills, at 52 miles, they open otit a
littlo, and you arrive at the Dcir Atrnsli, the Convent of the Deaf Mao.
The well hero was 38 feet measured down to the sand, which at that
depth choked it. For the sake of argnment I said this was not a conyent,
but merely a station like Naka*al Teir ; but the Bedawin seemed to have
no idea of confounding the one with the other* though I could see no
difference,
Jebel Dukhan Bcemed quite near now% and a tall peak to the north-
east in the Kittar mass was pointed out as that from which the valley
TJm Yeesar, or Mother of the Meringa tree, took its rocky course. A
man went forward overnight, and returned in the morning with a skin
of water from here. I afterwards, while surveying, visited this place,
and found it a grand gloomy gorge, choked with huge boulders, and
carrying a torrent of rugged blocks far out into the plain to join the
Kenueh Wadi, The water wras in the little nook under a mass as large
a cottage, and a man could just squeeze himself under and reach the
rater with outstretched arm.
Elding on over the hard and gradually rising path at 66 miles, vre
descended into the broad Kittar valley, which crossed our path at right
angles. It was studded thickly with big mimosa-trees, Bom© 20 and 30
feet high, but all hacked and chopped about. It seemed piteous, and I
was inclined to be angiy at the destruction of the few green trees I had
found in my mountains. The Bedawin occupation, and the only occu-
pation I know them to engage in, is making charcoal. They chop half
through the finest branches, and bending them down, leave them a
month or so to wither. Then they come, collect tho boughs, bury them,
burn them, and carry the charcoal off to the Kif.
An important question was now to be solved* The camels were very
thirsty, and the question was, '* la there water in the Kittar ? '*
We turned to, the right and rode up the valley, which was picturesque
and well-wooded as desert valleys go. We rodo four miles, and then
th© valley forked, and we went up the westernmost arm, which every
moment became steeper and more choked with rocks, caught against
which were piles and swathes of dead brushwood, evidence of former
floods.
Soon we dismounted, and led the stumbling camels over the rocks,
and at last I overtook two men seated on the ground. It was evident
from their faces that their troubles were over ; but 1 could see no welL
I asked, with assumed indifference, **Is there water?" and they
answered ** yes " ; but no water could I see. The torrent-bed became
sandy, and there were two or three holes scraped by hand, but all were
dry. The last man of tho party had the wooden bowl, and tho moment
it arrived, the man set to work scraping out the gravel at the base of a
large upright boulder. In a very few moments they reached the much-
wanted water, and th^ next ten minutes were occupied in struggling
IN THE EASTEKN DESERT OF EGf PT,
6T1
with the camels who betmm© dangerouBly haaty, and threatened every
moment to trample on us, or break their legs bj scrambliDg over the
smooth rocks. They were watered in their turn from a copper basin of
which I knew tbe measure, and in forty-five minutes each of the camels
had drunk more than eighteen gallons. After this they began to drink
steadily, and less like hydropults than when they began.
With a comfortable sense of repletion, we marched down to the
fork, and sent a man to the crosaing to warn the caravan of oar where-
abouts. This man, I remember, camo back next morning, reporting that
the caravan had passed, and was indigBantly sent on their tracks. Thus
by sleeping at his post, he gave the laden beasts 44 miles of nnneceesary
route.
Early next morning I strolled up the second arm of the ravine. The
air was cool, scented with artemisia and the fragrant yessar, and each
moment the scenery grew wilder and grander. The torrent cut a
tortuous channel down the valley, and the bed was sometimes ten and
fifteen feet below the surface. The northern flank was generally a
precipitous cliff, while down the southern slop© tumbled cascades of
boulders, and all around tall rugged peaks stood out in bold relief
against the clear blue sky. The numerous green mimosas, the yessar,
and other shrubs, which were dotted thickly along the vaDey, were most
grateful to tho eye. The yessar, or Moringa apiera (as distinct from
the Moringa pierygo^iervia)^ is a tree well known in the West Indies,
which has a eluater of white flowers like a laburnum, and a fragrant
scent. I hope I have succeeded in introducing it both into Cairo and
England ; for Mr. Bull of Chelsea showed me two yonng plants grown
from seed I sent him, and several ar© doing well in my garden in Cairo.
Hr» Thiselton Dyer writes from Kew, that it was probably the seed of
this tree which produced the oil of Ben, in great use by watchmakers
before the introduction of fine mineral oils. Ibex were evidently
plentiful, and indeed on waking I had found three peering at me from
the opposite cliff, Tbe ibex ia a grand animal, and as he always
selects his home in the wildest and moat inaccessible mountains be can
find, ibex-shooting is a sport fit for a king.
I was immensely surprised to find here a pair of donkeys, with a young
one, running in a semi-wild condition. They belonged to some Bedawin
whom we met later on, about 20 miles to the nortb, and leapt from rock
to rock with the agility of goats. They were obviously quite unattended,
and had been here a long while ; so it was evident that there was another
watering-place ahead of ua, for they could not drink from the covered
well which had refreshed us. But I little anticipated the discovery we
were to make afl wo climbed over the rocks which now obstructed the
gradually narrowing ravine. Rounding a shoulder of the cliff, this is
what we saw : Tho ravine was at an end. Over the cliff, which was
about 70 feet high, fell a feathery cascade of goftest greenest maidenhair
672
NOTES ON A SKETCH MAP OF TWO ROUTES
fern. Over tlie green moss, and through the clustering sprays, trickled
innumerable little fltreamfl of water into two crystal pools below, which
reflected on their pure surface the branches of a Syrian fig-tree. Above
were tall rustling reeds and feathery rushes, and between the pools waa
a soft strip of green turf. Fresh from nature's hand, our pool was nnpol*
luted by camels, who could not clitnb there, and only ibex shared our
treasure with us ; for the donkeys drank at a pool some way off, caused
by the overflow.
Here was a delightful end to onr hot sunny ride. The friendly cliff
hung lovingly over the pools, so that the sun never came there, and with
groat content I stretched myself on the turf. Books, meat, and tea were
always with me, and I spent two Buch delightful days in that grotto of
the nymphs, that I was almost sorry when it was announced that the
caravan had got up the valley aa far as the camels could climb, and I
returned to civilisation.
Here I fixed my camp for a month in the most picturesque spot I had
seen since I left Baluchistan. There was a grand sweep southward for
my transit telescope, and everything was soon made ready for the wire
which should connect me with Colonel Ardagh in the observatory at
Cairo. The sun was hot, but the air was pure and not oppressive until
just as I 'was starting on an expedition to the quarries of Mons Claudianus,
when ten days of phenomenal heat fell upon ue, and for some time the
thermometer never went below 114^, and was often 118^ throughout the
night. Many cattle died at Kenneh during those ten days, and our
soldiers at Assuan suffered very much. This wave of heat was felt very
severely in India. While it lasted, from the Gth to the 10th of June, it
seemed only possible to explain it by some fiery meteor having passed
close to the earth. And it is eas3* to understand how the world will
come to an end; for had it been a little hotter, all the animals and human
beings on the exposed side of the globe must have perished. It increased
for four days, and some of my people ran off to the sea-ooast ; but after a
week it gradually got a little cooler. It w as discouraging preparation
for our expeditioD to Mons Claudianus, which was an unknown distance ;
but still it was fortunate that wo had arrived at the Kittar waterfall
before it commenced.
The tents were pitched on a beach between the side of the valley and
the torrent-bed. A flat granite rock, on which we used to dine, and
which is inscribed with the year, marks the spot for which the loDgitude
is calculated. The silence in the hot noonday ^vas most impressivo; the
rocks seemed to sing in the noonday heat, though this was perhaps a
singing in my ears ; and in the evening ibex picked their way down the
cliff to the water, and regarded us no more than if we had been petrified.
Silence and sleep all around almost suggested that the world was not
yet created. It might have been an enchanted valley, the nymphs
proper to the maidenhair pool being asleep in one of the weird caverns
IN THE IL^STERH DESERT OF EGYPT.
673
wliicli abounded in tlie mountain side. But in the night all the jians and
efreets of Arah story were around us. Every cliff and crag gave forth
gbostly and niyaterioua noises, which I never could explain. Of one
110186, however, which astonished me very much, I diddiac^^ver the cause.
From the apparently unhrokeo face of a cliff, not a hundred jarde from
the camp, would arise suddenly the most vigorous (Quacking, as of
hundreds of ducks. This, after much wondering and watching, I dis-
covered to he a colony of hyraxes who lived in a crevice which could not
bo seen from helow. It is no wonder that the Bedawin people the dark-
ness with jinns and ghoeta. I should eurely have belioTed in them
myself, had I stayed much longer in the Kittar valley.
A description of the Kittar torrent 'w^ll serve for many similar
torrenta which rive tho mountains, and deposit in their caverns and
crevaesea the store of water which makes this country habi table. No
Bedawi will speak of them until their discovery is incTitable, and Major
Bundle, in his daring reconnaissance to AbiiHammad during tho Soudan
^xpediHon, found large natural reservoirs of delicious ivater which have
remained unknown to hundreds of travellers across the Eorosko-Abu
Hammad desert, though they have all filled their skins from a brackish
supply in the immediate neighbourhood.
Climbing up round the side of the waterfall, yon arrive on a broad»
smooth, sloping plateau, riven in several directions by giant fissures^ of
which the Kittar valley is one. Near the top of the waterfall is a
building, roofless, but otherwise in good repair, which Wilkinson de-
scribes as a church, having copied from it an inscription in Greeks which,
though mutilated, translates as follows : — '* Flavins Juliua, tho renowned
governor of the Thebaid, built this Catholic church in the time of
, Bishop of Maximianopolis/' Close by is a lovely pool of clear
water, full of tall rushes and long grass, a young date-tree, and two or
three Syrian figs. It may have been a chapel for a summer retreat for
the monks of Deirel Atrush, 20 miles away.
Across the top of the waterfall is a curious natural bridge, formed by
a slab of gmnite, and then for a few hundred yards the floor of the broad
ravin© is polished smooth during years of attrition by the gravel carried
by the torrents. Further up are more clumps of long grass, and water
reappears. Further again the polished granite is worn into deep rounded
pits full of water, and these form the sources of the waterfall* This
water escapes through the cracks, and when I visited the waterfall in
December, I was surprised to find that, though there had been no rain,
the pool at the base had increased and spread many yards beyond its
hot-weather limits, which, I think, is aocoimted for by the fact that the
rocks swell in the heat, and narrow the fissures through which the water
passes. The great stone rcBervoirs thus emit their treasure sparingly
i a the summer and more bountifully in the winter.
The ravine stretches up to the mountain slope, and the neck, or
674
KOTES ON A SKETCH MAP OF TWO KOUTES
divide^ from whicli it takes ito descent^ is a long three hours* climb up.
From this ridge, which ig 4560 feet ahove the sea, can be seen a wide
view of the surrounding country* Away to the south-west is a broad
expanse of desert with patches of low, Hack foot-hills, which I described
at Bab e! Mekanij, and which, from the summit, looked like pine forests.
In the distance are tbo MedamQd bills, on the west bank of the Nile,
while to the north-east are the mountains behind Tor on the east coast
of the Red Sea, From the divide the surrounding peaks seem to be
from 500 to 1000 feet higher. Down the further side runs the Medisa
ravine. All these hills are rather steep, and difficult climbing, and there
are many places where the foot slippiDg or overbalancing after a spring
might produce very serious consequences. The water makes some fin©
leaps, and has polished itself some grand basins in the granite, much of
which is red on this side. The lips of the basins are encrusted with
carbonate of limej and the Medisa water does not make good tea or
coffee.
It is a stiflf climb down of four hours from the ridge to the Medisa
glen, where is always a plentiful supply of water, both in a natural
reservoir with steep sides and full of green watercresses^ and from holes
scraped in the gravelly bed above. Camels are brought up to the
Medisa water, and I think tbat it is the hardest piece of climbing they
ever do, Nor do all make the journey safely. One was standing at
the foot with a broken leg, waiting <3^uietly to be eateo by jackals and
vultures.
From the Medisa an hour's easy climbing takes you clear of the
bills into the pretty Medisa park, where are massive remains of a
Boman station, and where I pitched my camp in the winter of 1880.
If, however, you follow the windings of the Medisa ravine, you
will paes other large basins, one especially large one overgrown with
calamus, or Arab pen -reed, which bad only dried up in the summer
of 1886.
From the well in the North fork, where we watered on our first
arrival, is a steep climb of three hours to tbe divide, which is 3910 feet,
and tbenco another three hours brings you to the beautiful Kohila
watering-place. A dark and gloomy fissure leads into the heart of the
mountain, and contains a ribbon of deep water about 6 feet wide.
Below the mouth is a red granite basin, and in order to -water camels,
which can approach from the ravine, the men pour the water down the
slope^n fact, put tho waterfall into action.
From tho Kohila water it is a climb of three hours down the ravine
to the " Three Yessar " fork, a clump of three exceptionally fine moringa*
trees, which forms a useful landmark on the road from Medisa to Fatira,
and five hours hence is the Medisa Park, at the debouchement of the
ravine of that name. Eight miles round tho flank of the mountain, and
across the torrents of boulders which pour down from its side, briBg
I
J
rN THE EASTERN DESERT OF EGYPT.
675
yoii to the valley, and thence it is six miles to the camp by the
waterfall.
The three watering-places deBcribed ia the Kittar mountains— also a
large well to be described later on— cati all withstand many years of
drought, and, so far as I can learn, never dry np. At Kittar, the only
place where the original source could be examined, former water-marks
showed a gradual sinking of the auppl3% but at Kohila and Medisa no
eiich marks are visible, and I think that they are refilled as they waste
from hidden reservoirs.
In the neighbourhocMi of these water-holes are many rude shelterB,
constructed by the younger Bedawin, and from which they fire at the
ibex coming to water. Besides these are soMctimes found small stone
huts of the shape of bee-hives, about 4 feet high, and with a small door.
I cannot explain what these were for, unless the Bedawin kept young
goats in them at night, which those with me thought unlikely.
"Where what we may call the high road crosses the Kittar valley is
a small Boman station. Starting from hero, the valley ascends still for
miles up to a bold cliff, which I have called the 70 Bluff, It was visible
for many hours before I reached it^ and always bore 70*^ on tho prismatic
compass. Here is the water-parting 1800 feet above the sea. Following
the broad, almost straight, valley on the right, are the live granite
peaks of Kittar and Munfia*, while immediately on the left are the low
foot-hills, and behiod them Jebel Bukhan. At six miles is a piece of
the ancient Roman road, swept of shingle, and defined on either side by
heaps of stones. At eight miles you turn to the north into the foot-
hills, and at nine miles you reach the Bad la' well. This is a large hole
scraped in the valley bed, and supplies the water taken from it so
rapidly that a hundred camels can be watere<l at it. I oould not hear
that it ever ran dry. Here is a large station and several smaller ones,
and a steep path leads over tho hill to the valley, where the main Eoman
town and quaixies of porphyry are situated. Tho ancient porphyry
workings have recently been examined by Mr. Brimlley, who has
obtained a concession for workiug them from His Higliness' govern-
ment.
From Badia' well the road soon clears the foot-hills, and strikes north
over a vast sloping plain covered with coarse shingle. Here for the
first time is found the Salvadora Perstcaj a shrub which in Persia indicates
water underground. It spreads its twisted branches over the surface of
the ground until it has accumulated a heap of sand, when it shoots
upwards, and its haid bright- green leaves form a fairly nourishing
camel fodder* In Persia it is called toof, or quince, of which fruit the
bark has a strong soent. Muslims make teothbrushes of sticks of this
shrub, which was so employed by the Prophet.
On the right a few stunted mimosas show the winding track of a
wadi which has eaten a path through two ranges of hills to the sea.
No. XL— Nov. 1887.] 3 a
676
NOTES ON A SKETCH MAP OF TWO ROUTES
At 24 miles from Badla* the path passes throngb a low limestone
rit3g6 full of flint nodiileB, and impregnated with petroleum. A little
farther is a parallel range of primary rocks, and between these ranges,
and in tb© track of the wadi, is one of the most interesting places on
the route. It hears now only the generic Arab term ** mellaha/' or salt-
place ; and Lepsiue^ who passed here in 1B42, suggests that it may be
the Fons Tadnos of Pliny. Here has been once a large flourishing date-
grove, probably much cultivation, and a large population; but all is now
ti scene of miserable desolation. It would appear that the torrent of
fresh water, of which traces are seen along the route, was once held np
by the granite range through which it now winds down a deep and
picturesque ravine. The water probably many hnodred years ago cut
down to a stratum of rock-siilt, and has since then poisoned all the-
vegetation, and covered all the neighbourhood with a greasy mud and
salt efflorescence. Some years ago I described a spot of desolation-
arising from similar causes in the Lashuri desert of Baluchistan, and
called Marn, or bitterness. But at Mani the desolation was complete
and hopeless. At Mellaha hope revived every spring, and was crashed
again every autumn. Each date- tree pushed a few Btn^ggling fronds,,
only to droop as soon as grown under the combined poison of salt-water
and burning sun. This had been going on for perhaps 400 jears, and
each living trunk was surrounded by five or six, and even eight or teifc
prostrate predecessors, who had given up the struggle and lay nn-
trimmed, each with sixty years of fronds round it, reduced to fibre by
the action of the salt, which, while it dissolved the softer, preserved tlie-
tougher parte.
Some green tamarisk bushes struggle about among the date-trees, and
there are masses of rushes and tall feathery reeds. On the north side-
is what I call, under correction, the remains of a short canal now full of
salt-water and overgrown with tall reeds. I could find no vestiges
of habitations, but the efflorescence covered everything, even a stick
thrown down for 24 hours rendered any discovery impossible except
by excavation. It was by accident that I found that there was a
ravine through the hitls, for the ordinary road lies through a pas*
three mike to the northward. One evening, while waiting for dinner, I
went for a stroll to the foot of the granite range. Singing loudly aa
I went, I suddenly became aware of five ibex earnestly regarding me^
from a low spur, snorting and butting in my direction. The moment I
stopped singing they retired^ but came forw^ard when I began again.
Quitting the role of Orpheus, I was on the ground next morniog^
with my riile at ahout an hour before daylight, and in the hunt I traced
the ravine which is about two miles long, and a hundred yards broad.
It is, for the most part, steep on the south and sloping on the north
bido. Some few date-trees have been washed down from MeDaha, and
a considerable stream of salt-water ripples along, eometimea above
IN THE EASTERN DESERT OF EGYPT.
677
ground and somotimes making a maTsh over the whole valley, which is
then full of tamarisk and green rnshee.
Biding down the slope towards the bay of Jimseh, you cross at
right angles an old Roman road leading to Abu ShaV, which is on or
near the aito of the ancient port of Myos Hormoa. The road is dis-
tinctly marked by being cleared of stones which are piled in regular
heaps at the side.
The route now skirte the bay of Jimaeh, the peninsula of which is
of coral and limestone formation, and which is interesting as having
jnelded some small quantities of sulphur and petroleum, of which latter
the Government hope to procure a larger supply.
Herr Oscar Schneider has published a long account of the sulphur
workings, and I think shows that the concession was obtained from the
Eg>"ptian govemmeDt as a ground on which to establish litigation and
claima for compensation, for the sulphur was produced at a cost three
times greater than the sulphur from Sicily, and a claim for 21 million
francs was made.
Eeturning across tlie neck of the Jimseh peninsula, and striking
north along tlio sea-shore or over undulating and broken shingly
ground, 25 miles takes us to Jebel Zeit, the oil mountain, where is the
wooden town of the petroleum miners. A paragraph in the Times early
in August stated that at a depth of 1200 feet very favourable indications
had been reached, but the great central reservoir from which the entire
neighbourhood had boen saturated had not yet been reached.
In order to describe the route down the axis of the mountain range,
I will return straight to Medisa, and thence take a fresh departure.
Leaving Medisa Park, the route curves round the huge bluff, and
enters the hills up a picturesque valley, flanked on either side by such
regular buttressed walls of cliff as to suggest passing up the aisle of
some great cathedral. The valley is green with shrubs, and here and
there smoked and blackened patches of rock suggest that the giants
have been roasting a half-dozen camels for supper, though the charred
appearance is explained by the manufacture of charcoal.
At the Three Yessar Trees the valley forks, the left hand leading to
the Eohila water* On the right are the purple Abu-Hassan mountains,
and rounding the north-eastern angle of these, we ride up the broad
Huaahid or Rusliaidi valley in which some twenty camels are grazing
under the charge of some well-armed Bedawin, who are recognised
with triumph by those with me as Ababdi, though far north of their
established boundary. I travelled this route both in June and in
January. The former journey I will not describe, for though I made a
rough survey of the route, and took the necessary observations for
altitude and latitude, still it was mere labour from the excessive heat
which I have before mentioned.
On the 6th of January, aa we left th© Three Tessars, a name
3 B 2
678
KOTES ON A SKETCH MAP OF TWO HOtTTES
suggestive of wayside eitabliahmenta at home, thunder was growling in
the mountains and echoing a thousand roars from cliff to cliff. Rain
fellj and soon we were riding in a heavy shower which settled into a
steady downpour. The effect on the camel saddles was tinpleasant, for
tbey were sewn together with leather tbonge which quickly etretched»
while the shaggy, purple-dyod sheepskins on which we sat gave up the
colour most freely- The themiouieter fell to 50"^ Fahr., and we enjoyed
more or less a regular English wet afternoon. The camp had been
started off to find its way to Luxor, so towards evening wo crept under
a huge boulder at the foot of the cliff. I lay awake reading until late,
as I was waiting for a Bedawi, who was bringing me a bag of gold
from Cairo. Suddenly came a splashing rush of water from overhead,
and almost in a moment the falJs of Lodore were upon us. Within a
foot of where wo lay was quickly a leaping frothy torrent, and the
muve qm pmt was amusiug ; for most uf us had undressed to dry our wet
clothes, and in the scanty lamplight the water seemed everywhere, and
men bounced in all directions, and fell over each other and everything
in laughing suTprise.
The suddenness with which water comes down is explained as
follows, as I once saw : — The water on four broad mountain slopes
converged. One ran freely, but three carried so much ibex dung, dead
shrubs, and twigs, that they damme<l themselves. One held up a
considerable head of water, and in bursting, loosened the eecond, and
quickly the third, when they all poured tumultuously down together.
We were wet that night, but in the moruing a fresh surprise awaited
us. When w© woke we were covered with snow. The valley was a
network of running streams, but the bushes wore covered with white.
The gixat Jebel Shaib took upon himself the appearance of the Matter-
horn, and an old grey-beard, a long time comrade, hastened up swelling
with pride and chattering with cold to explain to the ignorant English-
man what had happened to his beloved mountains, *' You see/* he
said, " those soft white clouds ; when it became cold, those clouds came
80 low down that they were caught upon the mountains and upon the
trees; I have seen Jebel Shaib white before."
In the morning we went through a pass at the head of the valley,
and skirted the northern and uppermost edge of a broad sandy plateau.
To the left, past Jebel Shaib, leads the road to the Jiojeh^ or precipice-
It was ly this road that the harassed and weary HeiT Lepsios escaped
on to the plains in 1842, after he and his caravan had wandered aim-
lessly on the mountains for two days.
Precipice is, however, too large a word to describe the defile on the
north flank of Shaib, by which descent is made to the plain of Munfia\
1 should have ridden down it in June had I not wished to note the
behaviour of a new aneroid barometer I had received, and I may mention
here that the aneroid, an excellent one by Elliott, did not move ai all
IN THE EASTERN DESERT OF EGYPT,
679
during the whole descent of 800 feet, but that during the three hours*
ride over the ehruhby plain to the well under the Munfia* hills, it
recovered its position, and accurately marked the difference in altitude.
The Munfia' valley is a good pasturage for the Ma aza, who in June
had a fin© flock of sheep there, and dug a large well and planted gome
twenty date-palms. Hassan, the sheikh of that settlement, complained
bitterly that the jealous men of the Kif would not sell them young date-
palms, and he had been obliged to obtain his from the small-producing
trees of Kufra* Donkeys, of which he had a few, required water daily,
aheep and goats every second day, and camels every third day.
To return to the route after skirting the plain, w© enter the Fatira
valley and ride down it. About three miles to the east lies the mountain
of Um Anab, or mother of grapes. Here is a curious water supply*
The path to it leads over the east side of the Watli Fatira into a] deep
ravine. From this you climb up a long sleep valley, almost shut in at
the top by rocks. Here on the ridge are two round holes which in June,
and so far as I could learn alwaye, were brimful of sweet water. I
arrived there at noon, when many thousands of sand-grouse wer&
circling round, impatient to drink, and quite fearless from thirst.
Unlike pigeons, sand-grouse cannot drink on the wing, and this
wateriDg-place, where they can walk up to the brink, serves the grouse
for many miles, who ainnot drink from water enclosed by cliffs.
At twenty-one miles the valley turns to the west, and we strike up
a steep and narrow path over the hille to the west, see some stone pDlars
lying about, and at last halt near the ancient square fort, in which lived
the quarrymen who excavated the granite from Mons Claudianua*
Her© were very extensive qiiarrieB of grey or blue and whit© granite.
A low mound of granite about 8 or 10 acres in extent and 100 feet high
has been cut and removed in huge blocks- One pillar which lay ready
for removal, but cracked, weighed 256 tons. Perhaps in two or thro©
vnnters it could have been rolled down the Wadi Fatira and embarked
at Kenneh, but I think that, having convict labour at his disposal, the
master mason sometimes launched out in a specially large pillar, leaving
it to tho purchaser to carry away if he could. The metbod of excavation
was the same as was used at Assuan and elsewhere in Egypt, wedges
were driven in at close intervals along the desired line of fracture;
inclined planes led from tho hill to the valley, and along either side
stand the pillars or towers of large stones which were used as purchases
for covering the blocks. At one place was a stage from which blocks
were loaded on carts. Tho tov^Ti, which was contained in four high
walls, is completely in ruins, but the plastered walls of baths and tanks
remain. Close by were the remains of a temple built, as would appear
from the remains of an inscription, by the Epaphr<Mitos, who commenced
the construction of the temple at Mons Porphyrites,
A ruined wall, evidently an aqueduct, from two to four feet high,
680
NOTES ON A SKETCH MAP OF TWO ROUTES, ETC.
according to the inequalities of the gix)Tiiid, runs about half a mile down
the valley and round a hill, behind Tvhich is a deep brick-built well, a
mined encloaure, and a tall tower which I suppose to have been used for
raising the water. Close by is a building which may have been part of
the Roman establishment, but which I incline to think was a monastery
built after the quaiTies were abandoned, but while the water supply
held good.
Um Digal, or the mother of pillars, was the appropriate name given
by the Bedawin to these quarriea which show work that might have
occupied for two or three hundred years the number of people which
could Live in the fori Leaving Um Digal we crossed a wadi running
west into the Wadi FatTra, aod struggling up its southern bank we
climbed over into the head of the long Abu Dok ravinCj which TxmB
south-west towards Kenneh, Two miles from the head of the ravine a
tributary enters from the north. Xear the junction are some deep holes
which would retain water for perhaps two or three years* Here were
ruined buildings, and one approached by a broad flight of steps seenaed
to be a temple*
It was in the grey dawn of January 7th that we climbed up the
ragged south bank of Abu Dok, rode through a few broken hills,
and emerged on a broad level plain 2400 feet above the sea. The air
was raw and cold, the camels' breath floated steamy in the frosty air.
Due north Jebol Shaib with his snow mantle stood stem and silent. In
the east a cheerless sun struggled with heavy clouds, which reddened
slowly, as if willing to preserve as long as possible the unaccustomed
appearance. Silent and wrapped-up closely we moved noiselessly out
on tJie plain, and here was a pretty sight. Picking their way down a
neighbouring ravine to our left came a little herd of ibex ; a little brook
ran across their path, and while they dallied with the water they sud-
denly became awai'e of us, all of them turning their handsome heads at
exactly the same moment. They showed no fear, but great curiosity.
Far away to the south lay range behind range, and a tall mass called
the Missika Hill was the mark we aimed for. Across the broad plain
we passed through more low hills, and dropped into the Wadi Abu Shia'
— " the &.ther of wormwood,** the strong-iscented bushes of which filled
the valley. Abu Shla' is, like Abu Dok and Fatira, a large artery running
south-west, and we followed it down to its junction with a third, which
carried away the water from the Missika group of hUls. Crossing the
triangle of low hills, we entered the narrow winding portal of Missika.
The east cliff is dovetailed into the west, and the walls on either side
are almost sheer perpendicular. Hence the road ascends slightly for
four miles to the divide at I960 feet above the sea. Two miles south of
the divide the road tuins sharp round the Jiddama bluffs, and in order
to find the water we follow the valley which collects the di*ainage from
north, east, and south.
I
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
egi:
Jiddama is both intereatiug and weirdly picturesque. The gorge or
throat of the raountaina ia of blood-red stone, cavernous and gloomy.
I^or is Bedftwin legend wanting to add romance to the interest excited
by the rugged scenery.
The throat is narrow and windings and descends by a steep granite
step, up which an active camel might be forced, but which is impassable
for any loaded camel. Here water is always found, and the Bedawin
have been at great troiible to sci-ape holes in the sandy bed and build
them round with rude but efficient masonry. But the chief interest
arises from the fact that hero is the boundary, not arrived at until after
many bloody encounters between the Ababdi and the Ma*aza.
From Jiddama the road rune south-east to the south side of the Eridia
hills, and at 5 miles from the water 18 the divide, 2130 feet, and the road
is choked by low hills* At 15 miles you strike into the Atalla hills, and
find by a dry watering-place an mhera or Cahiropia gigantea, the Persian
diraMt ahruhum or silk-tree, the Hindustani ^nudar^ and the Baluchi
zahren karrag or bitter flower. This tree is rarel}^ seen away from sandy
deserts, and seemed a strange visitor in the rugged valley where it stood.
Hence is a straight nm down the broad smooth Wadi AtoUa, At 22 miles
from Jiddama the Wadi Esshay joins from the north-east, and three miles
further we cross the Hnssafa road between Kenneh and Kosseir, Down
the Meeigh-el-Bagar we rode to Hammamat, now upon familiar ground.
I^ext moruing we sped away to the west j hardly halted at El Uaita, but
pressed on ; saw the glorious sunset in the evergreen Nile valley ; and
'dined in the evening with the tourists at the Luxor Hotel.
GEOGBAPHICAL NOTES,
Bev. G. GrenfelL— In a recent letter, Mr. Grenfell informs us that
fie hopes to be in England again early next year and give the Society
hh promised paper on his Congo explorations. His departure from
England in Angust last was very sudden ; ho says, " the news of
Comber's death had not been received more than four hours when I
commenced to pack up in readiness for the voyage," His map of a
portion of the river, including the Kwango, will accompany the paper.
His colleague, Mr. Bentley, had just returned from an interesting land
journey to the south-east of Stanley Pooh
Oxford Uiiiversity Extension Lectures for 1887-8. — We learn from
Oxford that Geography is to form one of the chief subjects in the courses
of instruction given under the extension scheme during the season, October
1887 to April 1888, nofr commencing. Eleven conrBea, comprising
eighty-eight lectures on this subject, have been aft^nged, with Mr. H* J.
Mackinder as lecturer. It is expected that the conrses will be attended
682
QEOGRiLPHICAL KOTZa
by 2700 Btiidenta, and they will be delivered at EnSeld, Timbridge
Wollfij Worksop, Leek» Barnslcy, Barnaley Dietrict, Ashbourne, Banbury,
Bath, Bath College, and Taunton,
AseeEt of KiUmanjaro* — ^As will be seen in our Report of the
Proceedings of the Geographical Society of Berlin, Dr. A. Meyer, of
Leipzig, succeeded in August last in ascending Kilimanjaro to the
glacier-walled crater aummit of Kibo, and explored the volcanic plateau
which lies between Kibo and Kimawenzi, Mr. Johnston, as will be
remembered, ascended to over 1G,000 feet, and estimated the height of
Kibo at 18,800 feet. Dr. Meyer believes the height to be 19,680 feet.
The Forests of Timis* — Mr. 1\ B. Sand with, British ConHid at Tunis, has
recently prei>arcd a special re{xjrt on the fores ta of the conn try, which has been
pubhshed by the Foreign Office (No* 63). These forests, which cover aa ap-
preciable part of the eurfaoe of Tunis, were, until the Freoch occupation, subject to
no anpen^Bion, but in the year 1883 the French, alive to the importance of preserving
what remained of them, placed thera under the management of a separate depurt-
mentj which baa carefully explored their extent and conclusively shown that they
are an important element of national wealth. The river Mejer<ia may be said to
divide the forests into two main groups. Those covering the north-west of tlie
country consist of the cork tree and deciduous oak, locally known as the Zen,
The trees grow in a stratum of sandstone, which reposes on the upper chalk, and
completely disappear where the latter stratum comes to the surface. The cork trees
are invariably found growing on the southern slopes of this mountainous region,
while the oaks floiuish on the northern slopes and in the hollows of the valleys.
The former cover an area of about 330,OCO acres, and the latter 30,000. South of
the Mejerda both these trees disappear and give place to the pine and a species of
eveTgreeu oak, la this part of the country the forests are scattered over variouji
mountainous regions of no great elevation, all comprised in the northern half of
the Regency where alono the minfall ia sufficient to sustain their growth. The
principal forest groups are found in the following places:— Zaghuan, Djuggar, and
Jebel-el-Erssaa«, not far from the city of Tunis ; Eessera and the Zlass Mountains,
further south; Sidi Tussef, Wady Melugne, Nebeur, and Haydra, in the west. The
estimated area covered by these groups is about the same as that covered
by the cork trees and zena to the north of the Mejerda. It is to the
latter that the attention of the new administration has been mainly directed.
They are situated in a very sparsely-populated country, inhabited by the Krumirs,
whose huts are formed of branches of trees. Much has been done during recent
years in improving the condition of the oak forests. Roads have been cut through
them and at stated intervals spacious alleys have beenfonued as a raeaus for arresting
the march t»f the d^tructivo fires which frequently ravage them. The preservation
and extension of these forests is held to be of paramount importance to favour the
increase of rainfall in the country. That they were more extensive iu the times of
the Romans, and that they served to augment the annual rainfall may he inferred
from the discovery of numerous aqueducts among hills, which are now absolutely
denuded of trees and destitute of springs. Much progress has been made iu barking
the cork trees. The rough bark, which is of no value, is stripped off the trees to
the height of six feet from the ground. Ten years after the trees have been so
stripfjed, the inner bark iMWomes available for commercial purposes, the trees giving
a crop of cork every ten yearfi. A statement prepared by the chief of the depart-
ment shows an estimated profit which iu twenty years will rcAch the sum of 70|0O0f,
GEOOEArillCAL NOTES.
683
per annam derivable from these cork forests alone. The pine foresta aontli of the
Mejcrtla are practically neglected and are consequently rapidly deteriorating. The
natives strip the trees of their l*ark for tanning and colouring hides, and cnt tliem
down for fuel, while goals, the worst enemies of the forests, are allowed to roam
everywhere. Ko attempt haa yet been tnade by the Government to stop this waste,
but it is expected that some measures will be taken very shortly. The French
railway company owning the line from Tunis to the Algerian frontier has succeeded
in planting a large number of the Eucalj^ptus resinifera (red gum tree) and the
Acacia cyanophylla ; some 300,000 trees have been planted along the line. In the
^vhole of Southern Tunis there is but one forest. It is formed of a species of acacia^
and is situated about twenty-five mUes inland from Sfax, covering an area five miles
long and one mile broad. This for^t, which was formerly much more extensive, is
protected from the northerly winds by high land; the trees grow in clumps in
depressions of alluvial boO. Though they only attain a height of ten feet, the trunks
furnish planks eight to ten inches wide, of very hard f^raia and capable of taking a
fine polish, A small outline map, showiug the distribution of the for^ts, accompanies
the Ke|)ort
Tbe Trade Eoiite to Siberia. — Not daunted by repeated failureB,
M. Sibmakoif again doBpatcbed hia eteaiuer NordensJctold this autunin to
the river Yenisei, via the Kara Sea, and this time with partial success.
The vessel left Norway in August, and, after encountering much drift
ic© and fog^ succeeded in reaching the mouth of the river Petchora.
Here a cargo of skins — bullock, sheep, goat, seal, and bear — was shipped,
as well as com, tallow, and mammoth bomss which had been brought,
by lighters and on the backs of reindeer, all the way from Tomsk to
Kuja^ about seventy miles up the river. The Nordemkiold then left for
Bremen, where she has just arrived, having accomplished the voyage in
sixteen days. Another steamer, the PhuL'mx, in charge of the weO-
known arcrtio toyageur Captain Wiggins, which left Vardo for the
Yenisei at the end of August, with a cargo of merchandise shipped at
Leith, succeeded in reaching and entering the Yenisei in the middle of
October, thus accomplish in g the voyage from Europe to Siberia, a feat
not achieved by any vessel since 1880. Norwegian hunters returning
from the neighbourhood of Nova Zembla report that the condition of
the ice was unusually favourable for such an adventure lat© this
autumn.
The Weather in the Arctic Seas.— Judging from the reports received
&om the Arctic seas around Nova Zembla, Spitzbergen, and Iceland and
Greenland, it seems that the weather and the ice in these regions have
been very remarkable during the past summer and autumn. Thus Dr.
Karl PettersonjOf Tromso, states that in July last the Norwegian hunters
found the sea full of ice north of Norway and around Spitzbergen, but
open towards Nova Zembla. Later on^in August — violent gales from
N.N.W., accompanied by heavy fogs^ put a stop to the whale-bunting on
the north Norwegian coast — by-tbe-by a montk earlier than usual —
certain signs of there being large masises of drift ice not far from the
shore in that direction. From reports received from Iceland we leani
684
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
that there, too^ the weather and the state of the ioe were most njiiimial.
For instance, in July last^ the ioe beset the whole northern shore aa far
a^ Cape North, the ice-be!t oxtending some twenty nautical miles sea-
wards. In the early part of August the mail -packet Thifra encountered
such a quantity of drift ice — in fact, a compact mass of ice as far as the
eye could reach — that the vessel was compelled to return. The ioe lay
very close to the shore on the return journey, thus, off the Reikjavik-
fjord, only Rye or six kilometres from the coast. On August 10th the
Thyra reached tho east coaat of Iceland ^ but here, too, all further progress
northwards was arrested by ice. It having blown continuously from.
the north-east, the southern edge of the ice extended as far down as the
Berufjord, and lay everywhere close to the shore. This Qord was then
the only accessible harbour on the east coast ; but already the next day
this, too, began to hll with ice, and the steamer bad trouble in getting
away. About the same time the mail-packet Laura succeeded in reach-
ing the Eskefjord, on the west coast, and thence proceeded northwards ;
but at Cuipe Korth largo masses of drift ioe were enoountered, and the
vesiiel was unable to reach the Seydisfjord on the northern side of
Iceland, She lay to for some hours in the ice, which appeared to be one
compact mass as far ae the eye could reach to the north and north-east,
neither was there open water in the direction of the Seydisfjord. Thick
fog coming on, the vessel returned southwards. However, on the vessel
making a second attempt to penetrate northwards, she succeeded in
reaching Cape North on August 17th ; but having advanced some twenty
nautical miles eastwards large masses of ioe were again encountered,
aud the vessel was forced to return. The wind blew steadily from the
north and north-east all the time, l^ever be fore » in the memory of the
inhabitants, have tho Seydisfjord and Eskefjord been beset by ice so
late in the season, whilst the circumstance of the ice being heaviest on
tho east coast is a most unusual one. On her next jouroey, at the end of
August, the Laura succeeded in reaching the northern shore of the
island ; but on September 6thj when steaming eaytwards, tljo ioe was
again encountered in Thistle Bay* As it lay packed close to the shore,
and extended seawards as far as the eye could reach, with a falling
barometer and foggy weather, the vessel was put about. It waa ascer-
tained on this journey that tho Seydisfjord was not free from ic© till
September tith, and even later large floes were mentioned between this
and the Eskefjord. Between September 7th and 10th, a terrible
storm from N.K.W. visited the island livith heavy falls of snow, par-
ticularly on the east coast. There is an old Icelandic belief, that, if the
ice does not disappear from tho northern shore by August 29th, it will
remain all the winter. The ico having not disappeared this year by
that date, there was little hojxs of its moving since. At the Faroe
Islands, too, the weather has been stormy and cold during August and
Septemb^?r, northerly and easterly gales prevailing, with fogs. The
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
6S5
latter LaTO been almost continuooB along the whole east coast. Eeports
of the state of the ice along the east coast of Greenlatid this Buinmer are
very scanty, bnt they seem to indicato that these two enormouB masses
of drift ice have heen forced up under the coast- Therefore, from the
reports received from the various 2:tarta of the Arctic Seas of the state
of the weather and the ice this summer refen-ed to above, we may draw
the conclnsion that the steady and continuons prevalence of easterly and
north-easterly winds has forced the ioe from the regions north of .
Spitzbergen and Nova Zembia down into the seas around northern
Norway, Jan Mayeo, Iceland, the Faroe Islands, and up along the
east coast of Greenland. Thus Francis Joseph Land and the regions north
and east of Nova Zembia must have been fairly free from ice this
summer, a conclusion borne out by the statement oF Norwegian hunters.
Moreover, it may be safely assumed that the state of the ice and weather
in the Arctic Seas above described, in a great measure accounts for the
'Oarly setting in of winter which we are experiencing.
The PyreneeB,— At the recent meeting of the French Association
for the Advancement of Science, M, Schrader read a paper on tho
Orography of the Pyrenees, to the study of which he has devoted the
last ten years, M. Schrader pointed out the great inaccuracies of existing
maps of this mountain range ; the latest maps, he stated, are sixty yearn
old, and abound with the most 'erroneous indications. Since then various
geographers have attempted to correct these maps, with unsatisfactory
results. M. Schrader *8 observations have been made with an instrument
of his own invention, which he calls an orograph. He points out first
that the mass of tho Pyrenees is to the south of the boundary line, that
they slope gradually into Spain, while they descend abruptly into
France; that they are vaster and less European in aspect on the
Spanish than on the French side. According to the old descriptions
the Pyreneau chain is compared in its general aspect to a fem-leaf with
its transverse veins, or to the dorsal ridge of a fish. But far from pre-
senting this appearance, they are in reality composed of many lines of
elevations (redressements) (7)^ oblique to the imaginary axis of the chain
with which they generally form an acute angle. Certain regions, that
of Mont Perdu for example, present this conformation with a regularity
almost geometrical. Others are less marked, though it is impossible to
inspect the network formed on the map by the valleys and the masses
without being struck with the extreme precision of the meshes which
compose it. This network is, however, broken up by fractures, across
whioh wind the streams which pass from one line of elevations to another,
taking advantage of the first breach to escape. These fractures are of a
different character on the two slopes. On the French side the crests are
blunted. The incessant hmnidity of the atmosphere has worn them
«way ; mountains, ravines, crests, all are effaced to assume the forms of
jusLtaposed cones or pyramids. On the side of Spain, on the other hand,
686
GEOGBAPHICAL KOTES.
the fractures arc much fresher, the angles more precise, the fonns
rougher. The hot and dry climate of Spain has evaporated the mois-
ture, destroyed the lichens, and preserved to the naked rocks their
primitive aspect* The arrangement of the Pyrenees is different on the
two slopes. On the French side the slope is rapid ; the mountains rise
like a wall, and have an aspect of grandeur. On the side of Spain the
deaoent is formed by two stages* Starting from the central crests we
find a sort of plateau, a compound mammillated surface, from 12 to
20 miles wide, of a wild and melancholy aspeet, contrasting with the
beauty of the great crests. At the limit of this region a new chain rises
to a height of from 1000 to 1600 feet. This long girdle of sierras, cut
by narrow and magnificent gorges, through which the rivers escape,
appears to enolose the mass of the Spanish Pyrenees in a circle of
gigantio walls. The descent of the sierras on to the plains marks the
limit of tho Pyrenees towards the south.
Depths of Swiss Lakes.^In a lecture on the depths of the lakes of
Switzerland given to tho Bern Society of Engineers by Herr J, Homli-
mann, and printed as a pamphlet, the author describes the method s^
apparatus, and results of recent surveys among certain of these lakes,
undertaken by the Swiss Topographic Department. Among the sound-
ings obtained are the following :—-Bodenaee, greatest depth 838 feet,
between Uttwil and Friedrichshafen; Lake of Geneva, upper part,
between Bavaz, St. Gingolph, and Yilleneuve, 842 feet, somewhat less
than a mile south of Kevaz, the greatest depth being in the centre,
between Ouchy and Evian, 1017 feetj Lake Luoome, greatest depth
700 feet, between Gersau and Eiitenen; Lake Zug, greatest depth
650 feet, between Walchwill and Immensee ; Lake Sempach, greatest
depth 28 G feet, between Eich and Nottwil; Lake Baldegg, greatest
depth 216 feet, between Kettschwil and Golpi,
The Lower Camacuam (South Brazil).— Dr. H. v. Jhering gives a
detailed account in the current part of Petermann*s * Mitteilungen ' of &
short voyage up tbo river Camacuara, made by him in the spring of
last year in company with Herr Soyaux, This river, which flows
through the southern part of the province of Kio Grande do Sul into
Lake Patos, was ascended from its delta to the town of S. Jose. A very
fall description of the river and each day's journey i b given by the traveller,
but its general physical features are summarised by him as follows : — In
the lower course of the Camacuam from the Passo de Bom Sera to th&
bar, the river winds in numerous curves, and there is a striking contrast
between the two banks ; while the right bank is steep and wooded, the
left is flat and covered with sand or gi'avel. It is on the latter side of
the river that sandbanks abound, whereas the waterway near the steep
bank is invariably deep, and the current strong. The high shore is
called '^ barranca *' ; tho ^* areial " or sandbank is composed either of sand
I
OBITUART.
C87
and gravel or of large emootli pebbles and Btones more than a foot long.
These argillaceous pebble stones must have been transported to their
present position from a long distance, as no corresponding rook waa met
with by the traveller in his voyage. In contrast with the lower course^
the character of the coontry above the Passo de Bom Sera is the same
on both sides of the river. The banks are wooded, and slope gently to
the river. The ooui'se of the river is less tortuoua, and the current not
so strong. There is a large voluoio of water in the river daring the
winter months, but in the dry season it falls Tery considerably. Speak-
ing generally, it may be said that the Camacnani has a very strong
current, and that it ranks well among the navigable rivers of the
province. The fuel of the Camacuam is much prized, while its foresta
contain many valuable woods, Buch as the cedar and angico. As
regards the distribution of the " campos," or open tracts of grass country
and the forest-covered lands, the traveller is of opinion that thia cannot
be satisfactorily explained by a consideration of the nature of the soil
and difference of climate. The former are invariably on a higher level
than the latter, and have not the same subsoil. From his observations
he concludes that this distribution can be accounted for if from the data
which geology furnishes as to the tertiary formations, the distribution
of water and land during the chief epochs of the tertiary period, and
also of the diluvial and alluvial epochs is determined, at least in ita
main features. He supposes that the elevated '* eampo-barrancas '* of
the Camacuam belong to the diluvial period, while the contiguous
wooded landu are of alluvial origin. Dr. Jhering's map of the river,
and especially of the delta, has been very carefully prepared. The
most recent map of the latter, that of the government engineer, executed
in 1882, is strangely inaccurate, showing the river to have three mouths
instead of five, and in other respects it is not to be trusted, so that Dr.
Jhering's map ia a real addition to the cartography of this region.
OeograpMcal Education in India.— We are glad to see that the subject
of reform in geographical education is attracting attention in India. In
two papers in Nos. 1 and 2 of the ' Punjab Magazine ' Mr. 31. J, Odgers
strongly advocates reform in the teaching of the subject in Indian
Bchools, and the foundation of Chairs of Geography in Indian Uni-
versities, Another writer con tributes an article to No. 1 on '* Geography
Teacherfc%''
Sir Julius Ton Haast, K.C.M.G.^ Ph.B., FXS., one of the Society'* Gold
ilcdalUsts, whose death took iilace suddenly on AoguBt IGtb, was the son of a mer-
chant at Bcnn j GermaDy , aad was bora there on May 1 st^ 1824. After passing through
the grammar schools of Bonn and Cologne, he spent some thne at Boan Uaivereity, at
the fame time that he learned the business of bookseller. He seems at this time to
hare ahowa tome taste for geological and mlueralogical studies. For some years
688
OBITUARY*
Hiiafit seems to liave travelled extensively jn Europe, visiting Russia, Austria »
aod Italy. During the eruption of Mount Etna, in 1852, ho is said to have
ascended the mountain for scientific purposes. When living at Hanover, Von
Haast recei\*ed an appointment from an English company to go out to New
Zej:klaDd for the purpose of Bhowicg its auitabilitj for German emigrants. Von Haast
arrived in Auckland, New Zealand, in 1858, and there ho met the late Dr.
Hochstetter, then one of the BtaU of the Navara expedition. At Hochsfcetter^a
request Von Haast accompanied him in hie exploration of the North Island, south
of Auckland, and a portion of Nelson, ivriting fall reports of all he saw to tho
leading German periodicals. At the request of the Provincial Government of Nelson
Von Haaafc then started on au expedition to explore the western and southern
portion of the province. During this journey, in addition to tho discovery of th&
Grey and Buller coal -fields, and of several gold-hearing districts, he filled in the
topography of a large part of Nelson, and added largely to the knowledge of
the geology, as well as of the fauna and flora of these alpine portions of New
Zealand. A report of the journey was published by the Government, and in the
beginning of 1861 Von Haast was ap|jointed Provincial Geologist of Canterbury.
During a number of years he devoted from six to eight months annually to the
investigation of the physical geography and geology of the province. The result waa
tho pubUcatioQ of the * Geology of the Provinces of Canterbury and Westland ' ;
and in the meantime Von Haast had sent various papers on the geology and
physical geography of Canterbury to the Geological and Royal Geographical
Societies. His paper on the mountains and glaciers of Canterbury Province, illustrated
by a map in part drawn from his own surveys, was read at an evening meeting of the
Society in February 1864, and published in vol xxxiv. of the Journal, A sub-
sequent paper on Altitude; Sections of the principal routes between the east and
west coasts of Canterbury Province appeared in vol. xxxvii* of the Journal.
During his explorations as a geologist be commeocetl the formation of the
famous Canterbury Museum, the first museum of the southern hemisphere, Th©
entire collection consists of over 150,000 labelled specimens, thousands of which
are of great value and rarity, and many are quite unique. Von Haast took much
interest in education in New Zealand, and was one of the founders of Canterbury
College, in which he was professor of geology and palaeontology. In 1862 lie
founded the Philosophical Institute of Canterbury, the publications of which are
well known in Europe. Von Ilaast took an active share in various exhibitions in
which New Zealand was represented ; and of the New Zealand section of the recent
Colonial Exhibition he was the organiser, and took infinite trouble to render it a
success, both from a scientific and an economical point of view. Von Haast did
much to make known the geography of New Zealand, as well as its geology and
palaeontology ; and the services he rendered to the interests of his adopted conn try
will make his name long remembered there. He received many honours. In 1862
he was made ru.n, the University of Tubingen ; in 1SG7 he was elected a Fellow
of the Royal Society, and in 1886 was made d.sc. of Cambridge ; in 188^ he was
aivarded the Gold Medal of the R.G.S. for his explorations ; and of above fifty academic
and learned societies in various parts of the world, he was a fellow or honorary or corT€*
sponding member, Tlie Emperor of Austria conferred upon him a patent of
hereditary nobility ; a number of European Sovrereigns sent him their orders ; and
Her Majesty created him a k.c.m.g. for his services in connection with the Colonial
Exhibition. At the conclusion of the Exhibition, Sir Julius visited the great
museums of the Con linen t of Eorope, Paris, Brussels, Berlin, Dresden, Vienna^
Venice, Florence, and others. Von Haast leavea a widow and family, who, we are
glad to know, will be well provided for.
( G89 )
PEOCEEDINGS OF THE GEOGEAPHICAL SECTION
OP THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION.
MANCHESTER MEETING. 18S7.
ThuTiday^ September 1st (continued).
The Bang'ala. By Capt. Coquhhat. — This paper will appear in foil ia the
Journal of the Manchester Geograpliical Society.
The Congo below Stanley Pool By Lieut* Le ^rAniNEL. — This paper will
he published in tlie JourQal of the Manchester Geographical Society*
The I*ower Congo i a Sociological Study* By Eichabd Coaden Vbillipb,
Will bo published in the JohtikiI i>f the Autlirojw logical Institute.
Ifotice sur TEtat Independent du Congo. By M. von Eetveldb
(Abstract).^!' he Congo State lies wholly within the tropics, and covers an area of
1,075,000 square miles. In sketcbing the physical confi^ration of the country the
author ^rew attention to its magnificent water-highwayfl, and to the exceeding
fertility of certain dij*tricta. He ntjited that Captain Yangele had heta charged
with, a mission which it was 'hoped would definitely settle the Mobanf^i- Welle
problem. Meteorological observations had not as yet been carried un for a sufficient
time to enable us to form a definite idea of the climate. The cliuiate, hcwever, did
not sensibly differ from that of other tropical regions; and had this in its favour,
that diphtheria, Bcarlatiua, the yellow fever, the cholera, and tjpkus fever were
unknown. The many ileaths which had occurred among the officials were due
ratber to exceptionally hard work, to the want of comforts, and to lack of experience,
than to the badness of the climate. The hygienic conditions would improve
with the progress of cxdtivation. Mr, Stanley estimated the total population of the
State at forty-three millionB, and looking to the accounts of recent exploi-ers as to
the |K)pulouaness of certain districts in the interior, this appeared no exaggerated
estimate. I'he inhabitants might roughly be divided into river-tribes and into
tribes inhabiting the *'Ngombe," that is, the uplands and regions away from
the rivers. The former were traders and fishermen, the latter agriculturists and
bunters, ond carried on domestic indufitry, such as iron-smelt i rig, the making of
pottery, weaving, &a On the lower Congo many of the natives sought employment
as carriers. Four types of houses had hitherto been okservcd^ viz. the rectangular
hut, with a wooden frame and a thatched roof; the circular huts (on the -Aruwimi) ;
the housci! of the liakoi, with mud walla ; and the huts which the j^eople along the
Ubengi built in trees. Many of the villages were stockaded. Human sacrifices on
the death of a chief were still common, but the authorities of the State were sucvsess-
fully striving against this barlmrity. Socially there existed three classes, y\z, chiefs,
freemen, and serfs. The civilising influences brought to bear upon the existing
conditions were having a visible effect. Missionary enterprise was expanding, and
commerce rapidly developing. The railway which it was proposed to build to
Stinley Pool wonld give access to the wealth of the interior. Courts of justice had
been established, and atrocities, such aa were referred to in a Report by Mr. Consul
D. Hopkins, had become impossible. The suppression of the slave razzias, tlie
abolition of human sacrifices, the introduction of an impartial administration of
justice, the cessation of tribal wars, the protection and expansion of commerce, and
the establishment of public security, were the objects aimed at by the State,
A Yisit to Diogo Cad's ** Padrjw '* at the Mo^tb of tiie Congo* By R. E,
Dexnett. — The author described a visit, in April 1887, to the suppled fragments
690
PROCEEDINGS OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL SECTION
of Dtogo Cafl*8 "Pillar*" near Shark's Pointp which had then recently heen dis-
covered (or rather rediacovered) by Baron Scbwerin aod {>efiar F. J. de Franca.
The latter bad been told by the natives of the existence of a fetish made of stonep
and as no stones are found for milea around San Antonio, where he resided, he at
once concluded that tho fetUh would prove identical with the ** Pillar *' set up by the
discoverer of the Congo* The natives silleged that the fetish had fallen from heaven,
and SeOor Fran^a^s jiersuaBive ix>wers were called into use to induce them to reveal
its whereabouts. The author landed on the ioner side of Sharks Point to avoid
the surf. A short walk through coarse grass led past *' King George^s Palace/* cloae
to which are now the tombatoues removed from the submerged English cemetery*
He then crossed the pointy weot past the site of the old cemetery, now covered by
the sea, and at a few minutes^ distance from the shore ascended to a hillock, where,
in a denae bush, the venerated stones were discovered. The bandages of cloth, which
until recently covered them, bad been removed. The fragments condsted of a
square base» 27 inches in height, jmrt of the cylindrical columDi 12 inches m
diameter and 18 inches in height> and of two ball-shaj^ stones, all of white
marble.*
Oa Acelimatisatioi, By Dr, A. OrPLER, of Bremen. (Summary). — "Accli-
matisation '^ means the adaptation of an organised being to new snrronudiogs without
injury to the Ludlvidnal, or danger to the existence of the species. Our present
views as to the origin of the races of man are based npon the possibility of man being
able to become acclimatised in regions climatically different from that which has
given him birth. If this is not conceded we are compelled to assume an indefinite
number of centres of creation, from which man spread over the earth. The imity of
race is generally conceded to certain great human familiea, such as the Mongols, the
Indo-Enropeana, the Jews, and the Anierican Indians. The last extend from the
glacier-fiords of Tierra del Fuego to the Arctic circle, and from the hot and humid
lowlands high up to the dry and cold plateaus of Peru and Bolivia, These Indians
must have originated from one primeval pair, whose descendants in course of time
adapted themselves to the most varied climatic conditioos. The Mongols, too, are
found in the most varied climates, from the Iiot and hnmid plains of Anam to the
arid highkntts of Tibet and the frozen soil of the Tundras. Physically the Tatar of
Lenkoran yiflds in no respect to his kinsman in the delta of the Lena. The Indo-
European frtmily extends from the moist lowlands of the Ganges to Scandinavia
and Iceland, and in its case acclimatisation was effected in the conrse of no more
than 2000 years. The Jews further ill uf^t rate the faculty of man to become accli-
matised. At the present time there exists probably no people which still occupiea
the soil which originally gave it birth.
Having regard to the over-population of Europe the question of acclimatisation
becomes one of practical importance. At the present rate of increase Europe doiiblea
its population in the course of a hundred years, and as the resources of the various
;
:
* Mr, Baven stein {who read the paper in the absence of the author) said that the
stones descriWd bad been referred to by previous explorers, Dr, Baslian alluded to a
Portuguese who Lad visited them, and who had seen inscriptioug u|K)U them, which he
was unable to decipher. Sir Richard Burton had visitwi and described what were
clearly the same fragments in 1863. It hardly atlniittwl of a doubt that the Sbiuk's
Point of the Adraimlty chart was identical witli the Punta do Padnifl de S. Jorge, A
tlinrougli exploration of the old Duchy of Sonyo would lead to iatercsting diecoveries
bearing upon the history of the early Portuguese occupiers and tlio miesions, and could
eassily be cffL-oted by one of the gentlemen attached to the taclories, endi as Sir.
Philipps or Mr. Dennett.
OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION. 691
coiiDtrics do not increase at the same rate emigration and colonisation have become
a necessity. Up till now European emigration has mainly flowed to countries
presenting climatic conditions similar to those of Europe, but the temperate region
are gradually filling up, and the question arises whether the tropical regions might
not afford new homes to European emigrants. On this point opinions differ widely.
Hcnriciis I^ntzovius already says, " Est optimus aer, qui unicuique est nativus."
G. F. Kolb, the eminent statistician, looked upon the theory of a '* gradual acclima-
tisation'' as a deception. Prof. Yirchow maintains that neither individuals nor
families can become acclimatised in malarial tropical regions, the families dying out
after three generations. Certain tribes or races are, however, capable of offering
greater resistance to the deleterious influences of a tropical climate, a<< for instance
the Jews, and certain Southern Europeans, in whose ve'ns flows Arab blood.
Dr. Hirsch and Dr. Fritsch agree in the main with these views, and they are also
supported by medical men who have lived within the tropica, such as G. A. Fischer,
Dutrieux, and J. Montano. The last says, with reference to the Philippiue*Islands,
that Euro))eans who have lived there during eight or ten years suffer from anaemia,
which conipels their temporary return to a temperate climate to recruit their health.
Women suffer more severely from the climate than men, and children of Europeans
suffer most of all.
Among authorities who maintain that Europeans are capable of becoming accli-
matised within the tropics M. A. de Quatrefagcs holds a foremost place. He
maintains that the Aryan race is capable of accommodating itself to every climate,
although a victory over nature may be secured only at heavy sacrifices and in the
course of generations. Many explorers, including Livingstone, Stanley, Pogge, and
Felkin, hold the same view. The arguments advanced in support of either of these
views are, however, inconclusive, for there are no trustworthy statistics which would
enable us to assert^tbat European families have survived in tropical countries for more
than three generations. On the other hand, it cannot be denied that the death-rate
among Europeans residing there is exceedingly high. If an attempt should^be made
to establish European colonies within the tropics, only individuals physically and
mentally qualified should be selected, and they should previously to starting for
their destination, be furnished with hygienic instructions suited to the tropics. In
order to enable this to be done effectively, a comprehensive and systematic study of
the hygienic conditions of tropical countries is called for.
The author, having given a rapid sketch of the progress of European colonisation
since the time of Charlemagne, stated that of 80 million Europeans and their
descendants, who lived at the present time in other continents, no fewer thanVten
millions had found a home within the tropics (or rather within the isothermal lines
of 68° F.). Of these ten millions fully nine millions lived in tropical America. '
Friday^ September 2nd.
The Eaian MoBris. By Cope Whitehoube, m.a.
The Desert from Dahshur to Ain Raian. By Captain Contebs Subtees.
The Bahr Ynsuf, its present state and uses. By Captain H. H. Brown, b.e.
The above three papers are pubDshed in the October No. of the * Proceedings,*
anU^ p. 608.
Trade Prospects with the Sudan. By Major C. M. Watson, cm.o., b.e.
The Red Sea Trade. By A. B. Wylde (of Jeddah).— The author of this
paper dealt very exhaustively with the trade of the Red Sea ports. He spoke
strongly in favour of the Suakin-Berber route, as compared with that down the Kile
to Cairo, which was favoured by Egyptian oflBcials. Tribal ports, such as Mersa
No. XT.— Nov. 1887.] 8 o
692
PROCEEDINGS OF TEE GEOGRAPHICAL SECTION
Haiaib (one of the Wealthiest places on the Red Sea), Roweyat or Mahamed Ghoul,
Aghig, and Trinkitat should be opened to trade, which would do away with the
aecessily of inembera of oue tribe iiassmg over the territory of another, and with
the frequent blood-feuds to which thia k'd. He had spent from May la-st year until
quite recently among tritcs avowedly unfriendly to the Egyptiiin governmeat, but
Imd beeu treattnl everywhere with the utmost courtesy and hospitality* They were
all ansious that trade should be resumed. When the trade had been got back, and
when cameld were unable to cope with ir^ then the time for building a railivay from
Suakin to Berber would have come. Bj means of this railway the coal required by
steamers navij^ating the Nile could he carried. I'he Sudanis ougitt never again to
be handed back to their old Egyptian or Turkish rulers, whom they detested and
despl^d. The question of the Sudan could and ought to be settled at once, and ike
country would cease to bo a source of annoyance, and become another outlet for
British trade.
Between tlie Nile and the Bed Sea. By E. A- Fivoteh, of the Khedivial
Civil Service, ante^ p. 659.
Account of a recent Visit to the ancient Porphyry Quarries of Egypt.
By W, Bhikdlky, f.k.m.b,— Egyptian porphyry has b^n sought after from the
♦j^arliest times, as i>ne of the most precious building stones* Ancient writers differed
as to the whereabouts of the quarries from which that stone was obtained, and in
modern times they were hlerally rediscovered by Burton and Wilkinson in 1823,
and subseqututly visited by Lepsius in 1845. The information published by these
visitors proving of no immediately practical vahie, the author determined to follow
in the footstei^ of Wilkinson, and, aco^mpanicd by his wife, he came to Cairo in
February last. Having examined the ancient granite quarries at the first cataract,
which sup[iUeil deep red, rose, and dark grey stone, which was quarried by metal
wedges, and not wo(h1 (as is generally sup|K)sed), the author started from Keneh with
a small caravan and supplies calculated to last three weeks. Passing the remains of
several Roman stations, the author, on the fifth day, reached an excellent well in the
charming Wadi KItar, hemmed in on three sides by precipitous mountains. Soon
after leaving this valley he crossed the watershed (240O feet above the Nile), and
then travelled along the fiank of the immense jiorphyry mountain of Jebel Dukhan
as far as an old Roman station with an old fort. The morning after his arrival the
author ascended to the top of a pass (3100 feet), without having found even a frag-
ment of jjorphyry ; but espying, by the aid of a good field-glass, porphyry colouring
on the opposite nionntatn he resolved to go there, and his delight knew no bounds
when he found the ground tbt^re strewn with pieces of the roost sumptuous porphyry,
and* discovered a pitched way or slide, 16 feet wide, down which the blocks were
lowered. Further examination led him to the locality where the Romans had
extracted their grandest masses, and he found that these quarries had yielded not
only the usual sttotted variety but also the brccciated sorfs and green-greys. The
great quarry was at an altitude of 3(150 feet alnjve the sea, and a road led down to
it to an ancient town with workshopE, A ^mth led hence to the old town in the
vallej', further up whicli are the ruins of a Roman temple. The blocks were formerly
carried to the Nile, a distance of 96 miks, but tlioy will in future be conveyed by a
gentle incline to the Red Sea, which is about 25 miles distant. On his return to
Cairo the author secured a concession to rework the quarries, the terms of which
have since been ratified.
Matabeleland and the Country hetween the Zambesi and the Limpopo.
By Ca[it. C. E. Hatnes, r.e. — This region has been famous from a very early age for
its productive gold-mines. They were being worked when the Purtuguese first
OF THE BRITISH ASSOCUTIOK.
693
arrived in the country, and some of the mines etill exist, but the tlavo trade and
the inroad of the Blutabele power bave redaced all native industries to a very
indeterminate cjuantity. TJie Matabele are tbe near kinsmen of the Zulu, and liEvve
nearly identical customs. Both wear that unicivie bead-dress, the gum riog, their
badge of manhood. The Matabele were driven out of Zululand about the beginoing
of the century, and under their chief Um&elikazi they became a terror to all the
Bechuana tribes living north of the Vaal tiver. Attacked by the Voortrek Boers,
and by the Zulus uoder Panda, they were forced to retire north of the Limpopo,
and finally settled down lu the midst of the Makalaka and Mashona trilws. About
the fiame period the Gaza kingdom was established by Manikuza, one of Chaka's
gaaenda, to the east of the Sabi river. This tribe^ under the government of Umzila,
proved itself a fast ally of the Matiibele. TIjo invasion of the Matabele has caused
the annihilation or disruption of the tribes with whom they came in conflict.
There are only fragments of the aboriginal people now, who still carry on in a furtive
manner some of their old industries^ such as gold-digging, iron* working, and weaving.
The climate of Matabeleland resembles that of the Transvaal, and the high veldt
which langes from the Nata river to the vicinity of the Zambesi near Tete, is well
fit for European settlers, and promises to become a prosperous agricultural region,
with numerous local markets at hand in the raim'ng districts. Care should be taken
to protect the forests there. Their wholesale destruction has already begun. The
Gaza country and the low veldt is not bo salubrious, and, generally speaking, the
Zambesi valley is malarious, A<:riculture at present is in a depressed state. There
is plenty of arable land on the high veldl, and excellent wheat, as well as all English
vegetables, can be grown alongsiile the banana and orange. The high and middle
veldts are more suitable for stock -farming. Facilities for irrigation abound. The
tsetse does not emst on the high veldt. The mineral wealth of the country still
awaits development. The Tati gold-field is now being worked by an English
company, but a nod from the Matabele king may at any time put an end to this.
It is a pity that this infant colony should not have been made the basis from which
British interests in Matabeleland might be protected The extension of the railway
from Kimberley to the Tati mines would have a most beneficial effect in attracting
settlers. Complaints have lately been made that northern Bechuanalaod is gradu-
ally drying up, and it is not difficult to prove that at one time Lake Kgami was
drained through the Botlctle, Lake Mnkarikari, and the Shashi into the Limi>opo,
A B'ote on HoEghton, the African Explorer* By Major Sir Hebbert
Peerott, Bart, (a great-grandson of Major Houghton). — Major Daniel DoughtoD,
who perished in an attempt to reach Timbuktu from the Gambia, was a descendant
of the ancient family of De Hoghton, De Houghton or Hoghton Tower, Lancashire,
He was educated at the Charterhouse, and married Philippa, a sister of the two laet
Baronets Evelyn, of WottoTit Surrey, He entered the army, and aer^^ed in the
59th Foot, and subsequently became Consul-Gencral at Morocco. Mm explorations
were undertaken at the instance of the African Aasociation. He left two sons,
one Commander Houghton, B.N., who served under Nelson, the other a midshipman,
B.K., who was loBfc with all hands on board the Magnet sloop of war. His i*er vices
were alluded to in a sermon preached on Dec. 12, 1872, by the Rtv. John W, Irvine,
entitled " Brethren and Companiona,'' and published by H. S. King and Co., 1873.
Frldat/j SeptemUr 2?*cf.
deographical work in Weatem AEstralia, 1370-1887. By the Hon.
JoHX Forrest, c.m.cj., Commissioner of Crown Lands, and Surveyor-General of
Western Auatralia. — Western Australia is about one-third of the Australian
3 0 2
694
PROCEEDINGS OF THE GEOGRAHllCAL SECTION
coatmeDt, and coraprises all that portion Ijing to the westward of the 129th
meridian of east longitude* Its area m about one million sqnare milesi and i&
therefore eight times that of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland.
Previous to I lie year 1869 scarcely any thin,; was known of that vast area of
Western Australia lying to the eastward of tbe narrow fringe of settlements along
the western coast, and not much more than one-fourth of its area was explored — in
other words, about 750,000 square roile^i of territory was represented by a blank
space on the map of Australia, The object of the paper was priuci}mlly to show
what has been done in regard to exploration since 1869, and specially to refer to
the development in recent years of the extreme northern portion of Western
Australia, locally called the Kimberley District, which contains about 134,000
square miles, Mr. Forrest continued as follows :^
Previous to the year 1870 Western Australia had existed for forty years in a very
isolated condiliou, and had very little means of communicating with the eastern
colonies, or with other parts of the world. In 1870, however, I travelled from
Perth to Adelaide along or near to the south coast, a route that bad been travelled
by Eyre in the very early days of the colony, and under very great difficulties-
Benefiting by his exporieoce, and keeping further inlaud, 1 was enabled to perform
the journey without very great difBculty, and in about five months after leaving
Perth I entered Adelaide with ruy small party of six i)er80D8 all told, and with my
horses and equipmeiita. One of the chief objects of the expedition was to determine
whether a telegraph cuuld be erected, and my report being favourable, the work was
undertaken and completed.
The result to Western Australia has been that the isolation in which it had
existed so long was entirely removed^ and we were at once placed in hourly commu-
nication with the eastern colonies of Australia and also with the rest of the world.
I also found that the country along the chorea of the Gn-at Australian Bight was an
elevated plateau, averaging from 250 to 500 feet above the sea, of limestone forma-
tion and well grassed, but entirely destitute of surface water. No doubt water will
eventually be obtained by sinking, or by storage in dams or tanks, acd then this
large area of good country will be utilised, aud be of great value for pastoral pur-
poses. After this journey from Perth to Adelaide a great deal of attention was drawn
to the great unknown interior of Australia which remained a blank on the map, and
between the year 1B73 and 1876 several eipeilitions were sent out with the object
d' crossing from the telegraph line between Adelaide and Port Darwin, which had
just been erected, to the settlements on the westeru coast. Several of these expedi-
tions failed to accomplish what was intended^ but Warburton, Giles, and myself
were suocessfuL Warburton in 1873 left the tele^japh line at Alice Springs,
travelled generally along the 21st parallel of latitude, and reached the sea-coast by
following down the De Grey river on the north-west coast. For the most part this
journey was through an inferior country covered with triodia, and water was also
very difficult to find, Warburton was provided with camels, and managed alter
great difficulty and privation, having to kill his aimels for food, to complete the
work he had undertaken* In 1874 I travel letl from Champion Bay, on the west
coast, to the telegraph line, along the 26th parallel of latitude, a distance by the
route followed of nearly 2000 miles. I reached the Peake telegraph station about
GOO miles to the north of Adelaide, This exi-edition occupied six mouths. From
Champion Bay for several hundred miles was through a fertile and well-grat^sed
couutry, but after the watershed of the rivers falling into the western coast was
reached, 1 encountered the same inferior district cro8se<l by Warburton further to
the north. 1 was not provided with camels, and had very great difficulty in making
progress, owing principally to the absence of water. The country was siightly
OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION.
698
Tindulatiog, and was from 150O to 2000 feet abo?e the sea — it was covered with
triodia, grassy valleys of limited extent iDtervening* Here aud there massea of
hills stood out ahove the surroDDding country, sometimes rising as much as 1200
feet above it. The prevailing rock m this country waa the tertiary desert sandstone,
so continually met with in ceutral Australia.
Up to this (late (1874) the predictions of geographers and others that the interior
of Australia might contain a large inland lake, and that beyond the head-waters of
the Mnrchison, rivers might exist nmnlng into the interior and emptying themselves
into this lake, had strong grounds for their opinion. It was said, and I think,
with much to support it, that as the western riverd took their rise at least 1500
feet above the sea, there would most prubably be a watershed, and on the other
side, rivers would be found running to the eastward.
These predictions and bo[)ea were for ever dispelled by my expedition of 1874,
and the fact was established that the drainage of the interior was absorbed by
evaporation, and by the salt murshes which are found here and there. In some
oises such as Lake Amadeos aud Lake Eyre, these marshes are of enormous extent,
and rivers aeveml hundred miles in length empty into them.
The next explorer who crossed from the telegraph line to the western coast
waa Giles, in 1875-76. He crosacd to the west coast generally along the 30th
parallel of latitude, and returned to the telegraph line generally along the 24th
parallel, being on the first expedition midway between ray journeys of 1S70 and
1874j and on the return journey between that of Warburton in 1873 and my own
of 1874. In these exi^ieditions Giles had the advantage of camels aud was able to
perform long journeys without water, in one instance travelling over 300 miles in
17 days without finding any. His experiences were similar to those of Warburton
and myself, the same desert sandstone, the same triodia, the same occasional grassy
valleys, and the same diBBculty in procuring water. Thus four distinct lines of
exploration were accomplished between 1873 and 1876, and this through country
that was before 1873 a blank apace on the map of Australia. There does not, in
my opinion, remain at the present time unj problem of great geographic interest
unsolved on the Australian contiuent.
The next exploration of importance was that of my brother, Alexander Forrest,
in 1879, and was wilhio the limits of the rivers falling into the sea^ being from the
De Grey river on the north-western coast to Port Darwin, nod for the most part
along the 18th parallel of latitude. I'his route was outside the desert sandstone
tracts traversed by Warburtt>n, Giles, and myself, and waa generally through a
well- watered and fertile country. The Fitzroy river was ascended and mapped as
far as the Leopold Ranges, wliich are about iiOOO feet above the sea. It waa found
to be an almost permanent stream, running through fertile alluvial grassy plains ;
one of its tributaries was named the Margaret, and was followed for over 100
miles to its source, and after crossing the watershed, a large river, named the Ord,
was discovered, and found to empty into Cambridge Gulf. The result of thia
expedition has been the opening up of this portion of Austral ia^ its occupation by
fiocks and herds, and the discovery of a payable gold-field.
The whole distance bitween Koebuck Bay aid Qimbridge Gulf lias since been
carefully triangulated, aud a good topogmphicai map has been compiled, while a
country which two year* ago had scnrcely been visited, except by the first explorer
and afterwards by a few others, is now intersected with roads and cart-trtMJka, aud
it is an easy matter to drive from King Sound to Cambridge Gulf. This hurried
settlement has been chiefly caused by the discovery of gold at the head-waters of
the Fitzroy and Ord rivers, which has nttracted large numbers of people from all
parts of Australia and New Zealand.
696
PROCEEDIKGS OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL SECTION
The geology of this part of Australia is moat interesting, and altbougli it b&s
been to flotne extent examined bj the Itite E. J. Hanlman, whofle labours have been
much appreciated, and whose sudden death we nil so much deplore, there is still a
Tast amount of most important and valuable work to be done. The immense
basaltic plateau, named by Hardman the Antrim Plateau, covering an area of quite
3000 fiquare miles, the numerous other outcrops of liaealt, tb© carbomferoufl lime-
itones and sandBtones, the numcroua gold-bearing quartz reefs, aU these and many
others present a most invitin^; field for the geologist.
In a river-bed in lat. 17° 20' S, and long. 125® E., not far from one of the
mimerons limestone ridges, Hardman disct^Tered a fossil bone of the Diprotodatt
AustrcUiSf the first specimen of this extinct mar;=itipinl that has been discovered in
Western Anstralia; and this discovery now I think conclusively proves that this
gigantic animal was common to the whole of Australia.
In 1883, and again in 1886, I visited extreme Kortb-westeni Australia. On
the first occasion I travelled from La Grange Bay to the Fitzroy river, ascended it
as far as the St, George Range, and also examined the country as far north as Port
Usborne. The country oonbists of rich alluvial grassy plains, is well watered, is
admirably suited for settlement, and is fast being Btocked with cattle, horses, and
sheep. A township, named Derby, with a Government staff, waa also eatablisbed on
the eastern shore of King Sound. In 1886 1 had a similar duty to perform in
founding a Government station, and selecting a township named Wyndham on the
east shore of the west arm of Cambridge Gulf, and both these towns now bid fair to
be places of much importance ; Derby on King Hound being the outlet of the fertile
valley on the Fitzroy river, and Wyndham on Cambridge Gulf the outlet for the
fertile valley of the Ord, while both are the ports for the Kimberley gold-fields.
The gold-fields are situated about 250 miles from both Derby and Wyndham.
Good harbours exist at both places, the one at Cambridge Gulf being one of the best
in Australia,
It is very encouraging for the future of this part of Australia, that in such a
short time two flourishing towns should arise, that a gold-field should be discovered,
and that flocks and herds should be depasturing on its rich grassy plains, which in
the h^ng past have remained unknown and unutilised.
Australian exploration of the adveiaturous kind is now almost a thing of the
past. Within less than a century, and for the moat part within the space of an
ordinary lifetime, another Britain has arisen at the Antipodes.
Monday^ Septemher ^ih.
The Begiimmg of the Geography of Britain. By Prof. Bovn Dawkins,
F*B,s.^Exploration is now progressing so swiftly that in compiratively a few
yeais the who!e earth will become familiar to geographers, with the exception
of perhaps a limited area round the poles, and we can look forward to a time
when there wil! b© little left of the surface to conquer. There is, however, a
geography in Ume^ as well as a geography in space, which has to be mastered. The
present surface cannot rightly be studied without knowiog how it came to be what
it is, and geology stands to geography in the relation of nncient to mcdem history.
In this communication an outline is laid before the Section of the first beginning
of the geography of Britain, as an example of the method by which the results of
geological research may be used for the building up of a geography m time.
The results of the deep-sea expeditions, and more especially of the Challenger^
prove that the accumulations in the waters of the sea arc deposited in a definite order
and position. While the depths of the ocean are occupied by large areas of Globi-
gerina ooze and of red clay, the sea-bottom at depths varying from about 750 fathoms
OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION. GS7
to the shore-line ia covered by detritus derived from the bind and accumulated m
bands more or le&s broad, and lapping round ihe present Bhore-Hne. We may follow
Murmy in dividing them into abyssal or dtep-sca deposits, and margioal, or those
formed in water comparatively sballow* If we now pass on to tbe examination of
tbe marine strata of tbe crust of the eartb, the first point to be remarked is tbat the
abyssal deposits are conspicuous by their absence, while all the marine stratiBed
rocks belong to one or other of the marginal series; in other words, have been accu»
mulated on tbe borders of an ancient land at depths not exceeding 1000 fathoms,
and moat of them at a depth very much less. The second point is, tliat not only do
tbe marine strata of tbe earth's crust occur in definite bands, but that they are
arranged in a definite sequence, which indicates the position of the musmfof the
land 00 the shores of which they were aocunmlated. To tnrn, for example, to the
geological map of Britaio, The newest rocks (tertiary) occujjy tbe sonth-east^irn
oountiea, while the secondary and primary rocks form a series of bands running
from the norlb-east to the south-west, the older being to the west, until tbe series is
at last abruptly tcrrainatcd by tbe crystalline schists, gneisses, and' granitoid rocks
of the Arcbaian formLition. If, again, we make a traverse from the Caspian Sea
through St. Peterabnrg acd Norway, we traverse tiimilar bands of secondary and
primary strata, until we are in like manner broUf;bt up by tbe Arcbaian rocks. On
the other side of the Ailantic a traverse from the Gulf of Mexico to tbe Canadian
lakes reveals to us the existence of similar bands of rock, ranged in the same order,
and abiujitly ending as before with the Arcbaian or Laurentian strata. It is clear,
therefore, that an ancient continent existed in the north and west, composed of
Arcbaian rocks, and which I have therefore nametl Archaia * on the margin of which
the newer rocks were laid down in both the Old and the New Worlds during the
primary atid secondary periods. How far it encroached southwarils into tbe depths
of the Atlantic may be left an open question. Tbe British I*iles appeared another
world {aiter orhk) to the Romans, because tbey were isolated from the continent, a
view which is true not only historically, but from the geological pc»int of view.
They have been built up of materials accumnlateil on the ever-changing south-
eastern margin of a great continent, which waa not Europe but Archaia.
Britain in the Arcbaian age was covered by a waste t*f water, broken only by a
few volcanic cones, !o the west of Snowdon, of St, David's, in the district of the
MalverDJ*, W*.dUngton and Church-S tret ton in Shropshire, nod in Charnwood in
l4?icestcrshirG. In my opinion we mtisi ask in vain the question, " Where was ttie
ahore of tbe Arcbaian Sea ? " So profoundly have the rocks been altered and
crumpled since they were depositeth We may, however, infer from the t'n<>Tmous
crumpling of the schists (hat the surface of tbe earth as a whole has contracted to
one-half of its original extent at the close of tbe Arcbaian age and before tbe
deix)sitinp; of any of the Cambrian rocks, Bj them changes the geographical
boundaries have been wholly obliterated.
It ia only in tbe succeedingi or Cambrian age, tbat we are able to mark down
the shore-line of Archaia, by massive shingle beaches some 8000 feet in thickness in
the Western Highlands, composed of pebbles torn from the Arcbaian cliffs. At the
beginning of the Cambrian age the continent of Archaia extended, aa Hull points
out, from tbe western border of the Highlands in a south-westerly ilirection, so as
to touch tbe extreme north-west of Ireland and to enclose the area of the Hebrides
and an indefinite region to the north-west now covered by the Atlantic. It probably
extended to the north-east so as to include Norway. From this shore the sea extends
over the whole of the British lalea with the exception of small islands in the neigh-
♦ Royal Institution LectureSi 188C.
PROCEEDINGS OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL SECTION
bourhood gf Snowdoa and Anglesey, at St David**, the Malverns and Church-
StrtittoD, Charnwocxl near Leicester, and Lickt^y near BirmiDghani. During the
Camhrian period the \vhulu Brit'sh area sank natil it was covered many thoui>azvd
feet dee[) with Ciuubrian sand -batik and inud*baDk, The sinking coatiuued during
tlie whule uf tkti Lower Sihiriuu or Ordovicean times, tlie sedtments from the land
accutHuUiing sufficieotly swiltly lo prevent any very deep vvaler in the Britiish area.
At Ihiu lime no portion of the continent of Archaia touched the Britiish Isles. Active
Yolcanoetj, however, rose above the waters, out of whose ashes and lava-atreams the
higlier mountains of Cumbt»rland and Nortlj Wales have been carveti They occurred
also at t5t, David*a and along the line of the St*vern. Tlie chlT* of Archaia are proved
Dot to have been very far to tU<? we^t of Scot land, from die large blocks of Archaiau
locks in the (Ordovicean Lower Silurian) strata of Wigtonahire,
We have now to record a profound geographical change in the British Islep, at
tlie close of the Ordoviceaa time^. The Ordovicean (Lower Silurian) rocks were
lilted up above the waterg and denucWd before the deposit of the Siltirian (Upper)
strata, la the Highltintk the r^icka underweot such eiiormous strain that they w ere
folded and broken and thriist against the rttam/of Archaia with such force that an
eaormoiis alice of country in the neighbourhood of DurueHs has^ according to A.
Geikie and l\ach, been pushed 10 miles to the west of its original position in such
a raanner as to brinj; the older Archaian Hocc on which they rest immetUately above
them. To this fieriod ako belong the faults which have caused the line of weakness
now marked by the Great Glen as well as the parallel ranges of mountains.
The shingle-banks of the Upper Silurian sea in the central valley of Scotland
mark the shore-line which extended over the extreme north*western parts of IreLtud.
According to Hull they also mark the presence of an island in Southern SootUod,
in Cumberlaad^ in the district of Snowdonia^ in Haduorshire, and at Churcb-Strettou
in Shropshire. The whole of these islands, however, w^ere sinking during the
Silurian age, and ail, with the exception perhaps of Snowdonia, were covered by the
Upper Silurian waters.
While this southern area waa sinking the marine plateau of the Highlands, so
graphically described by A. Geikie^ was being attacked by the snbaerial agents of
denufiation, and the line of faults in the Great Glen, and the area of Caithness, and
the eastern jKirt uf the Southern Highlands, erotled and cut up into valleys, in the
lower parts of which the massive shale beds and sandstone of the old red sandstone
locha was accumulated.
From this Silurian age ilown to the Middle Tertiary time the Highlands, or
some portion of them, have forn^ed j>art of Archaia — a continent which allowed of a
free migration of animals and plants from America by way of Greenland to Europe,
or vice versa, throughout the primary and secondary [»eriijils, and as far down as the
Meiocene division of the Tertiary,
Eeport of the Committee on the Study of Geo^aphy at Oxford and
Oambridg'a.* — ^Ihe Committee met on the 12th January, 1887, and decided *' That
the Council of the British Association be requested to give their support to the
representations and offers mi^de to the Vice'Chancellors of the two Universities by
the Council of the Geographical Society in letters dated July 0th and December
9ih, 1886;^ t
The Teaching of Geography at the Universities. By H. J. Macki^tder.
— To give a practical value to the discussion on the teaching of geograj>hy as
♦ See * Proceedings/ 1886, p. 740,
t Ibid., p. 529. On Deeemher 9th a letter of similar puTport was add^ased by the
President (General B. Strachey) to the Viee-Chancellor of Cambridge,
OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION. 699
applicable to the Universities, I propose exposing to the fire of your criticism my
programme for the coming academical year. There will be two courses of lectures :
course A, on the principles of geography ; course B, on the geography of Central
Europe. In these lectures no definition of geography will for the present be
attempted. But to prevent geography becoming; a discussion of thiogs in general,
a distinct Hue of argument will be kept steadily in view. This we may indicate
thus : —
The basis, a descriptive analysis of the earth's surface, including in that term the
atmosphere, the hydrosphere, the form of the lithosphere, and the material of its
surface. From this we shall reason backwards to causes, and forwards to efiects.
The causes largely geological, the efiects mainly on man ; in other words, in the
former stage we answer the question "why?" for physical, in the latter for
political geography.
Course A is intended to be annually repeated, subject of coui'se to improvements.
It will deal with the methods and principles of geographical observation, reasoning
and exposition, with the great circulations in air and water, with the various types
of features, with the broad facts of distribution of animals and plants, and lastly,
with the dependence of man on geographical conditions and the distribution ot his
social attributes. The classification will not be topographical, and the examples
will be drawn from all parts of the world.
Course B will vary in subject from year to year, but will always be an analysis
of a particular region. I select Central Europe to begin with, because it best fulfils
the necessary conditions. Gkxxl topographical surveys give us with precision the
form of the earth. Geological surveys are available for causal reasoning, and a long
history gives us abundant scope for the exhibition of efiects.
Ii is impossible to foretell the nature of the elapses, but I trust to see at course B
historical students ; at course A, those who intend becoming masters in our great
public schools, and at both a few who intend being geographical professors, poli-
ticians, &C.
As regards examination, I am inclined to doubt the ultimate advantage of the
too speedy introduction of examinations. We shall lose, perhaps, in the number of
students at first, but on the other hand,- we require time to train teachers, time to
begin the traditions of a school, and as in this time we are bound to make experi-
ments and mistakea, let us at least make them with our hands untied by a syllabus.
One method of stimulating exertion is, however, not open to the same objectioo.
Let us have a prize, but a prize under special conditions. Provisionally I would
suggest the following : — Make a list of say twenty small regions, carefully selected,
not too distant from England, regions of historical and physical interest. Let the
student select one of these at will ; let him read up the literature on the subject,
and then write an essay. Award the prize by the essays, and let the winner use the
money in visiting the region he has treated theoretically. There let him revise bis
essay on the spot, or, as he will more probably do, rewrite it. Then let it be
published. Thus I hope we might help high training, and at the same time produce
a valuable set of monographs. I would add also, as a preliminary qualificatioD,
attendance at the reader's lectures.
As regards diagram-maf s, I advocate many similar outline maps, each coloured
to represent one set of features, hung side by side.
Lastly, as to the relation of phyriography to geography. It is impossible to
teach rational geography without postulating on elementary but sound knowledge
of certain chemical and physical laws and facts, chieOy relating to air and water.
Thb training, it is true, is required for other scientific studies, and even for the
intelligent newspaper reader ; but it U indispensable to the geographer, and until the
700
PROCEEDINGS OF THE GEOGKAPHICAL SECTION
schools aend m boys so trained, or until the UuirersitteB fitjpplj such a coarse Cor
their students generftllj, the getigraphical lecturer will have to deal much with
physiography. But physiography ia Dot geography ; it lacks tlie topography, which
is the essential element in geographji
In the discussion which followed Mr. Mackinder's paper :^
The Rev, Canon Thisteam opposed Mr, Mackitider*8 view that geography had
but little concern with geology, aad criticised the comprehensive range of subjects-
which it appeared was to he taught in the new geography.
Dr. Yeats congratulated Mr. Mackinder on the grasp which lie had of his
subject.
Professor Boxn DAWKfsts thought there would be difficulty in the carrying out
of what Mr. Mackinder had described as a workable scheme. It seemed to him to
cover almost everything, except the three Uttle maps which he (Professor Dawkins)
had ventured to bring t>efore the Secretary as a humble offering from the geologi-
cal side of the hedge. He did not know whether they called that geography or
geology ; it was the natural outcome of geology, but if it came to dividing geology
from geography he could not accept the hard and fast line which Mr. Macltinder was
inclined to draw. If we cut oflF geology from geography we did exactly the same
mischief as by separating ancient from modern history. He therefore felt he ought
to utter a few word^ of protest.
Professor Seeley argued for the importance of geolc^' in geographical study.
Ho appealed most earnestly that they should not sever the present from the past,
that we should not take the existiog state of the earth as an ultimate fact in any
one phase, and not be content to borrow our knowledge from any department of
science and assume we could commence with its elementary data and build on them
a magnificent supers tnictnro of our own.
Mr, Ravenbtbif said that the scheme which had been placed before ihcmby Mr.
Mackinder was an ambitious one, no doubt, and one which he would perhaps be
unable to carry out in its entirety within the limited time placed at his disposal.
He thought that Mr. Mackinder intended to approach his subject in the proper spirit-
He was more especially pleased to find that it was intended to devote considerable
attention to the study of facts, for it was the possession of facts alone which justi-
fied their entering upon those geographical speculations^ which np]Teared to exercise
so great a fascination upon certain minds. Geography presented, no doubt, many
aspects according to the side from which you approached it, and he trusted the
multiplication of chairs of geography in the Universities would render it possible to
do justice to all of them. From the Universities an adequate knowledge of
geograxihy would spread to the training colleges until the whole body of our teachers
were permeated witli it.
Mr, Cope Wjiitehouse suggested that geologists themselves needed teaching iu
geography. In order to correct what in his mijid was an error on the part of the
geologists, he had just written to Sir H. Roscoe, oGfering to defray the expenses of
an expert to report upon the caves in the island of Staffa, and upon the differences
which exist between the illustrations of those caves in the standard works in use lu
England, America, and Germany.
Professor Wilkins said Mr, Mackinder evidently meant to teach geography on a
scientific haaia, but not to te^ich geology or biology. He anticipated that Mr*
Mackinder would have some difficulties iu his new work at Oxfonl, and cbietly
because of the varying degrees of knowledge with which the students would oonie
to him. To place the study of geography on a satisfactory basis the University
should arrange that stndents should he up in the subjects which would enable them
to follow the teaching of the geographical reader, and which it was no part of his
duty to teach. Professor Wilkina mentioned incidentally that in the Manchester
OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATIOX.
701
Grammar Sctool geography wai taught in a manDer as attractive to the boys as it
was creditable to the teachers,
Mr. Mackikoeh, in reply, claimed that the subjects ho had indicated could be
looked at from dififereut pointa of view, and that the jxiiut of view of the geographer
would bring into prominence a special series of facts bearing in a special way on
geography. He had in Mancbe^ter laat winter delivered a course of geographical
lectures, somewhat on the lines he proposed to adopt at the University, and with
gratifying rtsulta. He claimed, therefore, that the practicability of hia scheme had
to some extent been prove<.l by actual trial. His hope was at firat to work with a
small class of men, who would afterwards go through the laud teaching the results
they had arrived at in common.
The Ruby Mines of Burma- By Qeo. Skeltoij Stueei'Kf. — The ruby mine
tract, which the author reached in the company of a military culunm, is a broad
valley some twelve miles long, lying in the slo{>o of the Sihwi Dung or Golden
Mountain. The valley bears unmistakable signs of volcanic origin, its principal
feature being ridges and isolated peaks of gneiss, blackened by the hand of time.
The mines are of three distinct kinds : the first is furnished by the metiimorpluc rock,
whose mass is traversed in all directions by huge fissures, filled with a soft, reddish^
clayey earth, generally containing mbies. The mines are being worketl by extracting
the earth between the walls of nx;k, as far as practiciible. The second variety of
mine is found on the sides of these rocky hills, wh*^re diversified stratxi of clayey
consisteocy have been upheaved. This earth the natives wash away hlowly, by a
simple syistem of hj'draulic mining, the water being brought from the mountain-
streams by means of bamboo or timber aqueducts. The last system of mining is by
sinking pits in the lower or level parts of the valley, and washing the earth
extracted by the hand. In these pits the ruby-hearing earth is found in two layers,
the lower layer beitig the richer. The rubies extracted from these pits are inferior
in value to those ubtalned from the hill mines.
The mining re;iion was by no means a barren stretch of land, disGgured
by huge pita and shafts* The contrary was the case, for the sloi>es of the hill were
covered with trees, shrubs, and tlowers, a great part of the level country was under
cidtivation, and numerous small villages were to be seen, sheltered by the spurs
that run down into the valley. Mogok, the capital of the district, contained some
well-built timber houses, three large kyungs or monasteries, covered with beautiful
carvings^ and several rest-houses. It was surrounded on every side by pagodas,
many of which were covered with gold-leaf, erected by the principal men or by
fortunate miners. From it, paths or mule tracks led direct to Bhamo, Momeit, and
Mainlung, and also apparently to Momein, which the Cliines© considered their frontier
town. On every fifth day a large market was held. The inhabitants of MogOk were
mostly Burmani^ed Shan, but the villages around were inhabited by quite a variety
of tribes. Those extending down to the Jrawadi were inhabited by the pure
Burmese, Then there were Palungs, who cultivated tea on the mountains between
China and Burma ; Lisaws in some of the more remote villages, who grew paddy
and traded in pigs and firewood ; Katheys from Mimiijur ; Meinthas from the borders
of Yunnan, and also many pure Chinese, the Patalhays or Mahommcdan Chinese
heing the princif>iil traders. Just north of the ruby mine valley, on the top of the
Sibwi Dung range, 6000 feet above the level of the sea, a sanitarium for the British
troops had been built, and this station, christened Bemadmyo, promised to grow
into the Simla of Burma,
Mr. A. K CoIjquhoun (Oimuiissioner of Bharno, Upper Burma) said he
thought that the oil and aruber industry would be of more value than the ruby
mines in Burma, He found the Burmese not iU-disix*3ed to our Government
702
PROCEEDINGS OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL SECTION
or aurselvep, but ibej looked to us very naturally to understand and tolerate
their old customs and prejudiccB, Thosa charged with the administration of
the country were doing their best to attach the clergy of the country and to gain
the sympathies of the people, without which we should not get a satisfactory hold of
Burma or bo able to govern it pro[>erly. The Chinaman, he remtirkeil, is the heart
and soul of commerce in that region, Mr. Colquhoon warned the public against
attaching too much value to minerals in Burma. The real wealth of that country
waa not in the mines but in the agriculture, forest, and hillside land, with its gre4it
posaibilities of improvement. He thought it would be most improper to hand
over this large country and intelligent people to be exploited by an Eoglish
pyndicaLe.
Siam. By J. M'CARTUY.-^WiU "be published in a aub&equent No. of the
■ Proceedings*'
Tke Valley of the Bio Doce (Brazil). By Wm. Jno. Steains.— The author
in 188 i. left Enghiod for Brazil in the employ of Messrs. Hugh Wilsion and Son,
contractors for the coDstruction of a railway in the flouriahing little province of
Alagoas* On the completion of this railway the author, at Ma own expense,
undertook an exploration of the Rio Doce and of its northern tributaries, w]^cb,
notwithstanding his narrow means, and iu the face of considerable physical obstacles,
he carried to a isuccessfal conclusion. His expeilitlon left Rio de Janeiro on June 7th,
1885, and for eight wear}' mouths it had to battle against hardships and privations,
-Buch as want of provisions, inhospitable natives, fevers, and ague.
The valley of the Rio Doce is one of the most fertile regions of the empire.
Virgin forests cover nearly the whole of it. Gold is found in Cuiih^, a district of
Minas Geraeg, close to the right bank of the Doce, as also on the bead- waters of the
Rio Tambaqnary, a tributary of the Sussuhy Gmnde. Most of the basin of the
Rio Doce is inhabited by wild Botocudo Indians, who possess an inborn hatred of
the white man, who, on his side, luoks upon these " Bugrea " with feelings of intense
hom>r and dread. Until thcHo wild Indians shall at least have been partially
civilised, the valley of thu Rio Doce must necessarily remain a sealed Paradise,
The few attempts made hitherto in thia direciion have hop^elessly faileii, perhaps
because of the gross mismanagement on the part of those to whom the task was
entrusted.
The author's arduous explorations have resulted in a carefully plotted map of
the Hio Doce and of its tributaries, based upon over 4000 magnetic bearings and
careful dead reckonings. His map and drawings were exhibited to the meeting and
excited considerable interest, as the work of a traveller who at the time of undertaking
this exploration was under twenty-two years of age.
South-eastern Alaska* By Professor W. Libbet, jun.— For the substance
of this pafjcr, &ee * Bulletin of the American Geographical Society/ No. 4, 1886.
Tuesday, Septemher 6M>
Final Eeport of a Committee on fiathyhypsograpMcal Maps.— Will be
published in a subsequent number of the * Proceedings.'
On some defects of the Ordnance Maps. By Spenser Wilkinsok, m.a.
(Abstract.)— In cartographical matters England seemed to the author to be a long
way behind other countries, and the few gctod maps in existence were only the ex-
ceptions which proved the rule* The Ordnance Survey had done so much exooUent
work, and its shortcomings were bo largely due to the indiflference of Parliament,
that no one would wi^ih to speak of it in any spirit of fauh-finding. His criticism
would be made in the hope of increaaiiig its usefulness. The hills on the 1-inch map
OF THE BRITISH ASSOCUTION. • 708
were shaded without reference to a definite scale of shade. The fundamental
principle was that of vertical illumination, but light was sometimes introduced from
a comer of the map to give a stronger relief. By giving a pictorial rather than a
mechanical delineation of the ground the English cartographer had been eminently
successful in representing the hilly districts, but his failure where the unevenness
of the ground was ouly slight was very conspicuous. In this respect the Prussian
general staff had been fairly successful. The contours on the Oidoance Maps were
so few and faint as to have no practical value. On the cadastral or 25-inch maps,
no attempt at all had been made to represent the features of the ground. The
intervals between the contours on both the 6-iDch and the 1-inch maps were too far
apart, and could be traced only with difBculty. Contours on smaller and equal
intervals had been used with much effect in foreign maps of even a smaller
scale than that of the Ordnance 1-inch map. The " Surrey Hill Survey " was an
English example of the combination of contours with shading, but the contours
were too far apart to be of any military nse. The Ordnance Survey had not con-
tributed as freely as it might have done towards the improvement of cartography.
(Jovemment might fairly be called upon to furnish the public with a good physical
map of the British Isles on a scale of 5 or 6 miles to the inch.
J be shortcomings of British geography, the author maintained, were due to the
ness of British geography, and those of the Ordnance Survey in particular to
its connection with the army, the one national institution which had been for at
least a generation, and until quite recently in a state of intellectual torpor. In con-
clusion the author quoted Ruskin (* Stones of Venice,' vol. ii. ch. vi.), for a description
of an ideal map. (The paper was illustrated by an exhibition of representative
foreign and English maps.)
Sir Charles Wilson said the officers of the Ordnance Survey Department were
always very glad to receive any practical sn^estions for the improvement of the
maps of the country, but he failed to see any practical suggestion in the paper. The
reader of the paper appeared to be under some misconception with regard to the
nature and character of the Ordnance Survey. It differed in some respects from
those of foreign countries, which were made for purely military purposes. It was
true that our Ordnance Survey in its conception was military in character, but its
military character was soon lost, and it was now a cadastral survey. The reader of
the paper had complained of the crowded detail on the Ordnance maps, but it was ta
be borne in mind that England was much more crowded than any foreign country.
He was acquainted with most of the gentlemen who superintended the foreign
surveys, and he knew that our 1-inch map was looked upon as one of the most
beautiful pieces of work that had been publbhed. With regard to contours, he said
they were tied down by Parliament ; but he would like to say that the contours on
the Ordnance Survey were instrumental contours, and all strictly accurate. The
Ordnance Survey maps indeed were acknowledged to be the most mathematically
accurate maps in Europe. Every part of Great Britain that could possibly be ex-
posed to an enemy, or where camps would be necessary in case of a European war,
had been sketched by the Ordnance Survey in the most perfect manner on the
6-inch scale. These maps were not issued to the public, but were kept in
manuscript, and could be photographed at any moment if required for use. With
regard to the publication of small maps, he said the Government had refrained from
publishing maps that were not needed for State purposes in order not to take the
bread out of the mouths of the map-makers of the country.
Mr. Stotbebt (Bath) suggested that the altitudes of all heights should be'
inserted upon the 6-inch maps.
Mr. Tbelawxet Saukdkrs said that the altitudes inserted upon the Ordiuuioe
maps had not been selected with sufficient judgment^ and that it was more etpc
704
PROCEEDINGS OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL SECTION
deaimblo to give the altitudes of ri\^er confluezLces and water-partings. The pablic
were certainly reapoasiblo for many defects in the Ordnanoe Survey, Economy was
incompatible with perfection. Every eheet now was out of dato bef<»re it was
published, the interval between the sin-vey and its publication being so great. He
thought that the services of local surveyorsi mi;;;kt be utilisai in keepiug the maps
up to date* Among the specimens of cartography e3khibited by Mr. Wiikinsoo, he
miBsed Lehmann*fl map of Saxony. Lehmann waa the Rembrandt of car-
tographerB,
Mr. H. B. Mell regretted that the Ordnance maps gave no information as to the
depth of lakes.
The Prbsident said it seemed to him that the reader of the paper had been
compariug the work on the Continent of the |>re8ent day with work in this country
of fifty years ago ; and he did not quite understand why no distinction was made
between the work of an artist in hill sliading and scieiitiOc accuracy in showing
COD tours. Those who had to do with this work knew the difficulty of combining
accuracy with pictorial efifect ; and it was by no means settled, aa the reader of the
paper assumed, which system was beat for hill shading. For reconnaissance pur*
poses contours only were used.
Oa the Utilisation of the Ordjianca Survey^ By Sir C. W, WiLeojjw—
Thirteen years ago, when prefiiding over the Geo^aphical section, the author arew
attention to the maoy practical purposes which the maps of the Ordnance Survey
should subserve, and to the manner in which their manifold uses were ignored by
the public. The present year, which would see the completion of the field work,
seemed a fitting time to recnr to the subject. The authrir then illnstrated the
manner in which the Survey might be ntiliaed as a basis for the pmper assessment
and valuation of land for local taxation ; in the sale and transfer of land, for a
variety of local pnrjxtses, for educational purposes, and in many otlier respects. In
Ireland, the maps were very largely nsed in all brnnches of the administration, and
had done mnch to economise labour^ but England, after s{>cnding millions in the
productioQ of the most perft^ct map in Europe, hesitated to make use of that map in
the manner intended by the able statesmen and scientific men upon whose recom-
mendations government authorised the prosecution of the survey at the public
expense. The author drew attention to the chaotic condition of the administrative
botmdariea, and hojied that the piojjoatd boundary commission might find some
way of evolving order out of the existing chaos. The unit of the ai-ea should be
the same for all local purposes, and the larger areas should be multiples or aggregates
of that unit. This would probably lead to the division of the country into civil
parishes, unions, urban sanitary districts, and counties.
Mr. Wilkinson, rising to reply to Sir Charles Wilfion's remarks on hia pftper«
said it was no answer for Sir C. Wilson to say that his suiigestiona were of no value
because the Ordnance map was not a miUtary but a cndHstral map. He failed to
see how the whole of tlie work of the Survey could be described as cadastral, and in
particular how the 1-inch map, which was the one he had chiefly crilicised, could
he u^ed for cadastral purposes. It was no doubt true that the contours had been
limited by the Parliamentary vote, but they must ioBiet on Parliament granting
money to make the ma|is adctpiate in all respects. Nor was it an answer to say
that they had better maps wliich were not published. It was one of his oom plaints
against the Ordnance Survey that they kept so much secret.
General Sir H. Tbuillier thought the Ordnance Survey was a magnificent
production* The introduction of hill-shading on the six-inch scale was an
imjMfisibility,
On tlie United States Geographical and Oeologioal Sunrey. By
JosiAH FiEiiCE, jun. — The anthor exhibited twenty-five topographical maps on
OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION.
706
various scales, published by the United States Survey, and typical of all the
important physical features of the country. In doing so he drew attention to the
methods of field-work ; to the wide use of the plane-table ; and to the representation
of relief by contours.
Note on a Bathy-Orographical Map of Scotland and the snrroonding
Seas.— By H. R. Mill, d.so.
A Plea for the Meter. By E. G. Ravexstein, — There have not been
wanting in this country advocates for the meter, and of a decimal system of weights
and measures generally. Such a system, based, however, upon the existing yard,
was recommended by a Royal Commission as long ago as 1839, when terms like
" milyard," " millet," and " centner " were recommended at the time for general
acceptance. It is obvious, that a decimal system could be introduced without
introducing the meter, but I also maintain that at this day the meter is that
among the international units of length which has most chances of being generally
accepted.
I am not concerned here to defend the meter as a unit of length. If the question
of an international unit of length had to be determined at the present time, it is
very probable that the meter would not secure a majority of votes, the illusory
notion of its being in any sense a ''natural" unit, and therefore entitled to some
particular degree of respect, having long since been dispelled. Geographers and
surveyors would perhaps prefer a unit equal to the military pace of 30 inches,
whilst others, and I believe a majority, would be in favour of retaining the foot.
Indeed, had a system of decimal weights and measures been built up with the
English foot for a unit, even fifty years ago, it is just possible that those countries
which had not at that time accepted the meter would have accepted the foot, whose
reign might then have been perpetuated for all time.
But regrets avail nothing. The meter is too firmly established as an inter-
national measure ever to be displaced. The units of length of the countries of the
world fall into the four following groups v —
Area.
PopuUtion.
Countries using
the English
Foot.
Countries using
the Meter.
Countries using
the Castilian
Foot.
Countries using
various measures
of length.
United Kingdom
British Colonies and Dependencies
United States
Russian Empire
Hawaii, South African Republics .
EnropNean States
Colonies and Dependencies of ditto .
American States
Egypt
Central America
Dominican Republic
Bolivia and Paraguay
Denmark and Dependencies .. .
Asia
Africa
t»q. miles
121,483
8,854,327
.577,390
8,457,290
177.622
18,188.112
2.530,500
2,692.300
6,954,400
494,000
12.671,200
168.305
20.596
564,000
752,901
90,000
7.223,000
8,984,000
16,297,000
35,242,000
279,599,000
50,153,000
104.002,000
2,085,000
471,081,000
229,781,000
70,421,000
40.083,000
6.806,000
347,091,000
2,829,000
300,000
2,776,000
5,905,000
2,083,000
401,000,000
150,000,000
553,088,000
GEOGRAPHICAL SECTIOK OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATIOX.
This table shows that the CiuLiUaQ foot, loDg since discarded \tj Spain, still
carries on a liogeriug existence in Central and South America, but it is sure to be
displaced by the meter, which encircles it on all sides.
Tiie English Foot^ amoDg the three really iaternatiooal uniu of length, occupies
as yet the largest area, and is at least officially made n^e of by the greatest x)opiila-
liun. It is more especially India which givc« it ttus prepoDderance in area and
population. In India, however, the metrical system of weights and measures of
capacity Ima been introduced by an Act paaaed in 1871, and although this does not
necessarily lead to the introduclion of the meter, it yet shows that there exists a bias
iu favour yf the metrical isystem. If we examine into the condition of the countries
which have not tta yet accepted an international unit of length, we shall find that
the chances tor the introduction of the English foot are very small indeed.
The meter holds n very different positinn. Its victorious career, begun at the
opening of the century, has not yet come to an end, and its latest conquest was made
as recently as January last, when it was accepted as the legal standard throughout
the Argentuae Confederation.* Its introduction into Japan is contemplated.
Denmark and Russia are at the present day the only countries of continental
Europe, which have not as yet adopted the meter. As a matter of fact the meter is
much more widely used than appears from the above statement of areas and popuhi-
tion, for the scientiiic men of all countries have very generally accepted it for carry-
ing on their work and for recording the results of their scientific investigations.
I cannot conceive of the commercial and reading classes of this country having
an inBuperable objeciion to the substitution of the meter for the yard or foot. As a
matter of fact the trade carried on between Great Brilain and countries using tlie
meter embraces nearly one-half of the total trade of the country, for in 1885 the
exports and Imports were as follows i —
To or from countries using the English foot .. £292,707,000, 50 '1 per cent.
„ „ „ „ meter .. .. 2.S3,0ll,OO0, 48*5 „
„ „ the rest of the World.. •• ,. S,295,00O, 1*4 „
Even the most conservative business man must adroit that the universal accept-
ance of the meter, and of the metrical system generally would very much facilitate
many of his transactions, whilst the Bchoot master must concede that the time At
present expended without any appreciable profit to the mental development of their
pupils in acquiring a knowledge of an absurdly complicated system of weights and
measures might be devoted to more useful suhjects.
But whatever may be said by men of business or by schoolmasters, I must oon-
fidently assert, as one who for many years has been engaged upon geographical and
statistical work^ that the introduction of tho meter and of the system intimately
connected with it, would prove an immense boon. It would result in an immense
saving of time, at present spent upon the conversion of the most heterogeneous
foreign measures, it would free our books from mistakes, due to errors of computa-
tion, and would render directly comparable the results recorded by dififerent
observers.
I do not hesitate to assert, that irrespective of local surveys, the scientific work
of interest to geographers generally, which is done in countries using the meter, or
* Date of the introflnetion of the meter into the principal conntrics :— 1 803» I/>m-
bnrdy; 1819, Nctliorlauds and Belgiom ; 1 S3 G, Greece ; 18j0. S^ardinia ; 185G, Ecnailor :
1857, Venezuela* Culumhia ; 1859, Spain : 18(30, Poriugal, Peru; 18G2, Brazil, Uruguay;
1805, Chili; 1808; Gerrmmy ; 1875»8ervia, Xotwuy; 1870, Austria -Hungary, Eomaiiiu,
Egypt; 187», Sweden ; 1S82, Turkish Ejupire ; 1881, Mexico j 1887, Argentine
Republic
PROCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOGUCnXS. 707
done in other lands, but recorded in meters, far exceeds all the rest in balk and in-
trinsic value. It should not be forgotten that the geographer is not solely con-
cerned about the heights of mountains or the distances between different localities.
He is bound to take a more comprehensive view of his duties, and since the workers in
other departments of science have so largely adopted the meter, he should follow
this praiseworthy example.
Oeography, however, is so intimately connected with the common affairs of life,
that there is little hope of the meter being generally accepted until it shall have
become the legal standard of length. Such a change would no doubt be
accompanied by some inconvenience, but what has-been possible in G^ermany and in
Greece, should not be impossible in England, where every Board-school child is
taught the principles of the metrical system.
Mr. G. A. Kesselmeybb (President of the Anglo-Metric Association) objected to
the French meter that it was not a perfect decimal, and he gave some explanations
with regard to a "one-aught" of twelve units (in which 10 and 11 have separate
signs), which he thinks would better answer the purpose.
PSOCEEDINGS OP FOSEIGN SOCIETIES.
Oeographioal Society of Berlin, October 8th, 1887 : Professor Saohau in
the Chair. — ^The death of Professor Eoner was announced, who for many years
acted as librarian and editor of the * Zeitschrift' of the Society. He succumbed on
the 29th September to an attack of inflammation of the lungs. Professor H. Kiepert
gave some personal reminiscences of the late Dr. Koner, whose friendship he had
enjoyed for a period of fifty years. Wilhelm Koner was bom in Berlin in the year
1817, and occupied for many years the poet of director of the University Library
at Berlin. He published with his friend Guhl from 1860 to 1864 the work entitled
' Leben der Griechen und Romer, nach antiken Bildwerken dargestellt,' which has
since been translated into almost every European language. In 1861 he undertook
the editorship of the * Zeitschrift/ for which he during thirty-two years compiled the
valuable bibliographical notices of newly-published geographical books and maps. —
Dr. Mense, formerly a doctor in the service of the Congo State at Leopoldville, gave
an account of his journey up the Ewango in company vrith the Rev. G. Grenfell.
The Ewango at the point of its discharge into the Eassai forms a delta, which was
reached by the party on the 16th December in the steamer Peace. The direction
of the river is here almost directly contrary to that of the Eassai, and forms with
the latter an angle of 110^. As in the case of the Wabuma tribe on the lower Eassai,
female government prevails in the villages along the lower Ewanga The women
wear heavy brass hoops, often weighing from 15 to 20 lbs., round their necks. The
river is here from 700 to 800 yards in breadth, and flows through a low grass
country. In the afternoon of the second day of the voyage up-stream a tributary
with deep black water, and possessing a breadth of a quarter of a mile, was dis-
covered flowing from the south-east; it is perhaps the Saia or Euilu of Eund's
expedition. The natives called it Djuma. Above this point the banks of the river
are covered with a forest of lofty trees, full of caoutchouc-lianas and valuable timber
in greater abundance than is to be found anywhere on the middle Congo. Whether
this forest is only a gallery wood, or whether it extends far inland from the river-
banks, the party were unable to determine, owing to its impenetrable character.
The river gradually widens up to a breadth of about 11 mile, and becomes in conse-
quence more shallow. The numerous sandbanks impeded very considerably the
progress of the vesseL The inhabitants of this region appear to live chiefly by
No. XL— Nov. 1887.] 3 d
708
PEOCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES.
fiiihing; they were timid, and fled at the approach of the ateamer. The Dumber of
hippopotami was exceptionally large ; herda of from sbtty to seventy animals were
met with. The natives of a village reached on 20th December, who called them*
selves Wal)ondo, wore some fairly good cotton-stuffSj purchased from coaat traderB,
A new affluent with black water, and coming from the S.S.W., was discovered on
the same day in 3*^ 45' S» lat. This stream, which has a breadth of about 170 yards,
ia perhaps the Wambo of Lieutenant Kund. From this jxiint the course of the
Kwango, hitherto south-west, runs due east and west. The natives appeared her© ia
large bands, and showed a hostile disfjositioo, but the guard of wire -netting afforded
protection from their arrows, and the steam-whistle did the rest The lofty trees of
the forest here begin gradually to disappear, giving place to a savannah district on
both aides of the river. The country hecomes hilly, and is sparsely pop [dated by the
Wampfuno, who also dwell in the rt^gion south of Stanley Pool. The inhabitants
of a village which was passed on 2t3rd December were flcquaint<?d with the village of
Kintamo on Stanley Pool, and stated that it could be reached in from five to six
days' journey from their village. The Kwango now flows with rapid stream between
the precipitous slopes of plateaus from 700 to 1100 feet high, its course being
studded with islands and sandbanks. On the evening of the 24 Lh the party reached
a point in 4"^ 26' S. lat^ where the river begins in numerous curves to take a
southerly direction again. In doep gorges, which often confine it into a narrow bed
not more than 300 yards w^iile, the river continues its course in sharp bends to the
south* The tenitory of the Bakundi was next traversed, Neither among these
people nor among the Wampfnno was any trace of cannibalism observed, although
bith these tribes are, according to travellers, guilty of this practice. On the 27th of
December, after a very arduous voyage through much -disturbed water and rocky
channels, the i>arty arrived at the KicguDJi rapids, which are only about three feet
high. The boat left behind some time ago by Major von Mechow was no longer
there, but was sttU preserved hy the chief of the village Kiindinga. The return
journey on board the steamer was accomplished without any noteworthy incident,
and on the 3rd of January the Peace wivs again in Stanley Pool. — A letter, dated
Hth August, from Taveta was read, giving an acconnt of the successful ascent of
Kilimanjaro by Dr* Hans Meyer of Leipzig, who, in the course of a tour round the
world, has visited East Africa, and by this feat has surpasised all the attempts of his
prede€5cssor8, Rehmann, V, d. Decken, Thornton, Kersten, New, Thomson, and
Johnston. On the first day the traveller started from Marcale's village in Maruogn-
land, and reached the lower boundary of the virgin forest. On the second he
marched through the rain-drenched primeval forest, and pitched his camp on the
upfNcr limit, upon the site of Johnston's old camp. On the third day he crossed the
treeless region of the grass meadowp, and arrived at the first snow. The fourth day
was occupied with the ascent through the region of lava and ashes and bare of
vegetation up to the foot of the Kibo crater. On the fifth day Kibo was ascended
as far as the edge of the crater, where an overhanging glacier wall, 150 feet high,
prevented the traveller from reaching the crater itself; he was, moreover, quite
alone, having been compelled to leave behind, some 1000 feet below, his only
black servant Mauri, who had coumgeonsly followed him into the ice region, but
had become imconBcioos in consequence of the cold. On the same day tlie traveller
returned to the foot of Kibo, and on the day following photographs were taken of
the high pLiteau between Kibo and Ki ma wen si, and of the chain of volcanic hills
crossing the same ; geological and toiK>graphical surveys were also made. Dr. Meyer
remained several days in the region of the first snow, making botanical coltections.
Another fortnight was spent by the traveller in Mareale*s village fur the purpose of
collecting. He then puqxjsed to travel through the country of Kahe and Arusha to
the Upper Bnfu, and to return along the latter river to the coast.
( 709 )
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
(By J. SooTT Eeltie, Librarian B.aji.}
EUBOPE.
[Adria.] — ^Pbysikaliscbe UntersncbungeQ in der Adria. Ein Beitrag yon Julius
Wolf und Joaef Luksch, Professoren an der K.K. Marine-Akademie. Wien,
Carl Gerold's Sohn, 1887 : 870., pp. 22. Price 8^^. [Presented by tbe Publisher.]
Tbis is a minute pbysiograpliical study of tbe district of Adria, and contains
a sheet of maps showing tbe temperatures, currents, salinity, and depths of tbe
sea. It may be regards! as a good example of minute geo<n»pbical inquiry^
while the results are of value as a contribution to our knowledge of tbe physics
of the Adriatic.
Baedeker, K. — Great Britain : England, Wales, and Scotland, as far as Locb
Maree and tbe Cromarty Firth. Handbook for Travellers. Leipsic, Karl Baedeker ;
London, Dulau & Ca, 1887 ; 12mo., pp. Iziu and 530. Price 10s. [Presented by
Messrs. Dulau & Co.]
Tbis work appears to have been very carefully done by Mr. J. F. Muir-
bead, but it omits the whole of Ireland and the northernmost part of Soot-
land. These omissions, however, we learn from tbe preface, the editor hopes to
supply on a future occasion. Too much space appears to have been given to
tbe south of England, and in subsequent editions we would surest that the
matter bearing on this part be more compressed, and Ireland ana tbe north of
Scotland included. Tbe introduction includes an Historical Sketch of Architec-
ture in England, by Prof. E. A. Freeman. There are 14 maps, 24 plans, and
a panorama illustrating the volume. The maps do not appear to be quite up to
the standaid of Baedeker's other ^des, and it seems to us that better work is
done in England, as may be seen m Baddeley*s guides.
Bohm, [Dr.] August. — Eintbeilung der Ostalpen. Geograpbische Abhandlungen
herausgegeben von Prod Dr. Albreobt Penck. Band I. Heft 3. Wien^ Holzel :
imp. 8vo., pp. viii. and 235. [Presented by the Publishers.]
This is the concluding part of the first volume of Professor Penck's ' Geo-
grapbische Abhandlungen ' and like the previous parts forms an important
contribution to scientific geography. The author has made a thorough study of
bis subject both from the geological and physical standpoints. He points
out that orography has first of all to do with mountains and then with valleys,
and last of all with river courses, which last, as a basis of classification fVom an
orograpbical point of view, do not always represent a complete whole. In the
first section of the work, the author seeks to trace tbe evolution of the divisions
of the Alpine mass from the remotest epoch. In the second section, he treats
of the principal aspects of mountain-grouping, and seeks to obtain a new basis
on which to ground it. In the third part, he applies his principles to the
divisions of , tbe Eastern Alps. A natural division must be regulated by the
character of the subject viewed from all sides ; so that the physiognomy of the
mountains, and their oroplastic and {ideological structures must all be equally
considered, in attempting to form a division. Dr. Bohm's main divisions are :
(1) The Gneiss Alps; (2) Slate Alps; (3) North Limestone Alps; (4) South
Limestone Alps ; (5) The Elagenfurt Basin. Under these main divisions,
which it will be seen are essentially geological, are eighteen subdivisions. The
whole are clearly plotted on a good map. In tbe preface to the first volume of
the Abhandlungen, Dr. Penck speaks hopefully of his imdertaking, and
promises in the future the following memoirs: — The Ptoiir Begion, by Dr.
8 D 2
710
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATJONS.
Wilhelra Geiger ; Distribution of Atmospberic Presaure in Central Europe, by
Dr, Hano ; 1 he Cordillera of Merida, by Dr. W* Sievera ; and on the Origin
of OficillfttioDJS hi Underground Waters, by Dr. laidor Soyka.
CooUdge, W. A. B., DEbamel, H,, Perrin, P.— Guide du Haut-Dauphfu^.
Grenoble, Gmtier, 1H87 : 8to., pp. lix. and 442. [Presented by the Publiaber,]
For the Alpinist tbis is a model guide-book. There is notbiog saperfluotis,
Tbe introduction contains a bibliography and cartography, together with some
carefully compiled geological information. The re«t of the book is divided into
Hectiona, according to tho vaiious massifs of the Dauphiny Alps, and under each
section are methodiail tables of the order of itineraries, tables of centres of
excursions, and succinct but clear directions as to the best routes to the variooa
points and peaks, the authorities for each route being always stated. The index
at the end rinders the book easy of consultation, the flexible binding and
pockets render it manageable, and the broad margin Icavea room for notes.
The majis for the volume will be issued later.
Bavidson, T. M. — Geography of the British lales from tea different standpoints,
with 21 maps. London, Thomas Lirarie, 1886 : small 4to., pp. 52. Price 2^. Gd.
("Presented by the Publisher.]
The " ten different standpoints'* of Mr. Davidson's Atlas and textbook are
the following: Interoal Physical Features, External Physical Features, Mineral
Wealth, Industrial Pursuits and Commerce?, Populations, Railways, Canals,
Steampacket and Naval Stations, Battlefields, Cathedral towns, &c*. History
and People, Counties and Principal Towns, Watering Places and Mineral Waters,
This division is to some extent in the right direction, but is essentially
artificial, and without much logical Heqiience. Why, for example, should the
** internal " and the '* external '* physical features l^ sepamted, as if they were
totally unconnected? The text, though an improvement on the ordinary text-
book, is still too much a mere list of names^ though we can conceive that with
the maps, in the hands of a good teacher, the book would be useful as a collection
♦jf hints, llie maps are the best feature^, so far as their character is concerned,
the principle being to show one thiDg in one map i but their execution is poor.
G^ikle^ Archibald, — The Scenery of Scotland viewed in connection with it«
Pijysical Geology, Second edition. London, Macmillaa and Co., 1887 : 8to.,
ppb XX. and 481. Price 12s. Bd. [Presented by the Publishers.]
It is twenty-two years since the first edition of this work was published,
and it at once gave its author a high ^^osition as an eloquent writer, as well
ns an accomplished geologist. The work has been to a laiige extent rewritten
iind greatly extended for the present edition, and many new illustrations
introduced. It is an excellent example of the ap[«hcation of geolo^jy to an
interpretatioTi of the existing surface; it is indeed a treatise on the science of
scenery so far as Scotland is conceraeil, and will re|)ay serious study by the
student of geography. In the first part of the volume Mr. Geikie treats of
kmd-aculpture in general, and in this department of his science lie is unsur-
pusBed. The action in moulding the features of the earth into their present
fashion is dcBcrihed clearly and graphiaiUy of air, rain, rivers, sjirings, frost;
the sea; glaciers and iceberga. Part ii. deals with the Scottish Highlands,
their physical fi-aturcs and geological Btructure. Successive chaptei^ are
devoled lo the tableland of the Highlands; the Highlimd valleys; the High-
land hills ; the Highland lakes ; the ancient ice-sheets aod glaciers of the
Highlands. Part iii. deals with the tsouthern Uplands, in which also the work
of the ancient glaciers is described. Then conieH, in j^art iv., the Midland
valley, in connection with w^hich we have chapters on the Denudation of the Lowr-
lauds, the Glaciation of the Lowlands, the latest modifications of Scottish scenery,
and a most instructive chapter on the influence of the physical features of Scot-
tand upon the people. This last, Mr. Geikie points out, may bo seen (1) in the
M
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS. 711
distribution and migration of races ; (2) in the historical development of a
people ; (3) in industrial and commercial progress ; and (4) in natural tempera-
ment and literature. Each of these points he treats with necessary brevity ;
he shows, for example, how the topographical surroundings have given rise to the
marked differences that exist between the Scottish Gael and his kinsman the
Celt of Ireland. A very useful detailed itinerary is appended, and the book
ought to be studied by any one desirous of greatly increasing the pleasure of a
trip to Scotlaud.
Oumprecht, Otto. — Der Mittlere Isonzo und sein Verbal tniss zum Natisone. £in
Beitrag zur Losung der Frage nach dem Alter des Isonzosy stems. Mit einer Tafel
Karten. Leipzig, Gustav Fock, 1886: 8vo., pp. 46. [Presented by the
Publisher.]
This is a careful special study of the hydroCTaphy of the region watered by
the little river Isonzo, which discharges into the Gulf of Trieste. The author
shows that the Natisone, which now runs into the Torre, a tributary of the
Isonzo, ran direct to the latter through the Staroselo valley, imtil the end of
the Tertiary. He traces minutely the changes which have led to the alteration
of its course.
Hanusz, Etienne.— La Lutte de I'Existence des Plantea dans les Pusztas (Steppes)
Hongroises. * Bulletin' of the Hungarian Geographical Society, tome xv.
fascicule xii., 1887.
Hess, Heinrich. — lUustrirter Fiihrer durch die Zillerthaler Alpen und die Rieser-
femer-Gruppe. Wien, Hartleben, 1887: 8vo., pp. 260. Price 6». [I^resented
by the Publisher.]
This seems an excellent guide, quite equal to Baedeker's best. It is well
arranged, b^utifully printed, and copiously supplied with maps and pictures of
the best class. It is one of an extensive series of guides to special regions in
Central and South-eastern Europe, for which we have no English equivalents.
There are, e. g., guides to such regions as the Danube, to the Carpathians,
Carinthia, Styria, Dalmatia, &c
Xirchhoff, Alfred* — Einleitung in die Landerkunde von Europa. Sonderabdruck
aus der * Landerkunde der fiinf Erdteile.' Prag, F. Tempsky ; Leipzig, G. Frey-
tag, 1886 : imp. 8vo., pp. 87, maps. [Presented by the Author.]
Havez, Lonis> — De rinfluence des Formations G^ologiques en Belgique. ' Bulletin '
of the Royal Belgian Geographical Society, No. 4, 1887.
This is a careful study of the influences exerted by the character of the
surface of Belgium, mainly upon the people and their industries. M. Nayez
considers Belgium specially suited for such an investigation, as there is so com-
paratively small variation in altitude and climate, that the geological influence
may easily be singled out. Ho brings out strikingly the intimate relations
which exists between natural resources, industries, and density of population.
Palgrave, Maxy E. — Pictorial Geography of the British Isles. London, S.P.C.K.,
1887 : oblong 4to., pp. 102. Price 5«. [Presented by the Publisher.]
The chief value of this book is that the pictures are likely to give children,
into whose hands they may fall, an interest in geography. The text has been
written with considerable care, and though somewhat unsystematic, seems
sound, and on the whole in the right direction. Many of the pictures are
evidently old and worn, and some of them poor and out of date. The picture
of St. Andrews on p. 25 must be very old ; that of Greenock on next page is
useless. With the many fine photographs available, the picture of the
Barmouth Estuary on p. 26 is unpardonable. On the feeble picture of Snowdon,
p. 37, the point of view ought to be stated. To call the group of heights on
p. 39, the Grampians, is quite misleading. The picture of the ** Tay as it passes
712 NEW GEOGRAPUICAL PUBLICATIONS*
Perth,** p. 57»inust be about half a oentnry old ; that of Edinburgh is equally
unsatisfactory, and we fear many children will take the jail in the fi>regrouad
for tbecaatle ; while in the picture of a coal-mine on p* 89, they will be puMh-Hl
to find the mine.
[Pola.]— Pokj seiae Yergangenheit, Gegenwart und Zukunft. Eine Stndie. Mit
vier Tafeln, eathallemi Ansichten und riaae. Wien, Carl Gcrold*s Soho, 1886 :
8to., pp. 94* Price 4s. [Presented by the Publisher.]
An able historical and topographical study.
Tomaschek, Willielni.— 2nr Kuude der Himus-Halbinsei Wien» Carl Gero?d's
Sohn, 1882 and 1887 1 8vo*, pp. 73 and 91. Price 2$, Bd,
These aro two bro<thures by Professor TomaiMihek at GraK University, the
first of which deals with the topography and archeolojiy of the llremn!* fx^nin-
suK B»d the second with rke trade routes of the twelfth century, according to
the data supplied by EdrisL
TJmlauft, [Professor Dr.] Friedrich.— Die Alpen. Handbuch der gesammten
Al|>enknnde. Wieu, Hartleben, 1887 ; 8vo., pp. viii. and 488. Price 8s.
Professor Umlauft has in this volume compiled a systeinatic and readable
account of the Alps in their various asjiect^— their boundaries, divisions, struc-
ture, geology^ to^Kigraphy; valleys, riven', lakes; results of erosion and
weathering ; climate ; snow and glaciers ; fauna and flora ; inhabitants ; roads
and railways ; exploration. There are about 100 fair illustratioos, five coloured
maps, and fifteen maps in the text.
ASIA.
[Burma].— Report of the Administration of Lower Burma during 1885-G, and of
the Admiuistration of Upper Burma during 1^86. Kangoon, Government
Printing Office, 1887 : foUo, pp,ii., 71, cxlv., 27, and si. [Presented hy the India
OflSce.]
The special vahie of this Peport is that it contains a Bomewhat detailed
account of the geography of Upper Burma,
Central Asia. --No. 1 (1887)* Correspondence respecting the Affairs of Central
Asia. Presented to both Houses of Parliament by command of Her Majesty.
August, 1887, LoodoD, Harrison & Sons, foUo, pp. 11, niapa. Price 3^. 2d,
CHaser, Eduard- — Siidar-abische Streitfragen vom Forschungsrcisenden Eduani
Glaser. Prague, 1887 : 8vo, pp. 47. [Presented by the Author.]
This is a controversial |jamphlet, its object being to meet certain criticisms
by Dr. D, H, MiiUer, mainly on Herr G laser's linguistic researclies in South
Arabia.
Iladiaa Archipelago.]— Das Leben in der Tropeazone, sijeciell im ludischen
Archipelago. Nach Dr, Van der Burg*B * De geneesher in Xederlandtsch- Indie *
(1. Band, 2. Auflage), mit Genehmigung des Autora bearbeitet von Dr. L,
Diemer, Stabsarzt in Dresden. Hamburg, Friederichaen & Co., 1887: 8vo.,
pp. [6] and 150. [Presented by the Author.]
Dr. Van der Burg, from whom tljis work is translated, has been for twenty-
five years a physician at Batavja, and has made a special study of the Malay
Archipelago uith reference to European resideuce therein, the results of hi
investigations being to a large extent applicable to tropical climates gejierally.
He here discusses land and climatei dwetlinga^ iohabitauts, clothing, Imths and
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
713
cleanliness, food and drink, change and rest, acclimatisation, rules of life,
medicine,
Newall [M^jor-GeEeralJD' J. F*— The Highlands of India, Vol. ii. being
a Chronicle of Fluid S|X)rtij and Travel in India* London, Harrison & Sons;
Newport and Hyde, Isle of Wight, BrannoE & Co., 1887 ; Bvo., pp. atvi. and i64.
[Presented bj the Autlior.]
The first voluTiie of thia work was noticed in the ' Proceedings ' for 1882
at jjage 576. The jire^cnt volume consists of a narrative of travel and
adventuro in India, chieiiy in the pursuit uf sport. A|>art from mere I^e^sonal
incident, however, there is much that is useful concerning the geography of tho
region embraced. The volume is divided into sections as follows :--Section I.
Cashmere. Section II, The Kohisthan of the Pnnjaub, Section III. The
Kobisthan of the Punjaub (Part 2). Section IV. Simla, the Keyonthal, and the*
Basins of the 8ntU^j and Giri. Sections V, and VI. The Himalayan Water-
sbeds — tbe Basins of the Jumna and Ganges — Gnrhwal and KumaiJii. Section
YIL Nejnal and the BaaiuB of the Kamali, Gunduk, and Coai. Section VIII.
Darjeeling and Sikhim. Section IX. The Khasja Hilla. Sections X., XL,
Xll. The Southern Highlands. Section XllL and XIV. Slaharashtra and
Central India. Stction XV. Bajaiithan, Section XVL Note on India Alba.
Section XVIL Note on Gc-ylon. Appendix. Ethnological. There are numerous
full-|>a^e and text illustrations, diagrams, &c.
Oldliam, E. D. — On Probable Clmnges in the Geography of the Punjab and its
Hivera. An Historico-Geographical Study. Calcutta, Baptist Mission Press :
8vo., pp. 22. [Presented by the Author.]
This paper is reprinted from the Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal,
its object being to show that there have been great change* in the hydrography
of the Punjab and Sind, within the recent i)eriod of geology ; that there are
abundant indications not amouuting to proof, that these changes have taken
place within the historic period, and that the most important of them, by
which a large tract of once fertile country has been converted into desert,
appears to have taken place after several centuries of the Christian era had
[SumatraO — Rapport iiber eine im Dezember 18S3 untemommeno wiasenschaft-
liche Ktise an den Loba-See (Central Sumatra), von Dr. B. Hagen. Tijdschrift
van Indische Taa!-, Land- en Vulkenkunde^ deel xxxi., aflevering 4, 1B86,
This paper, with the three large mapa which accompany it, forms an
important contribution to tbe geography of the part of Sumatra with which it
deals.
AFEICA.
Asi;herBOn, P. — Die Nordlich© Isthmus-Wuste Aegyptons, * Yerbandlungen*
Berlin Geographical Society, Baud xiv. No. 7, 1887.
Becker, Jerome. — La Xie en Afrique, nvec Prfifaoe de Cte. Goblet D'AIviella.
2nd edition. Brussels, Lebegue & Co., 1887 : 2 vols, 8vo. j L pp. xxii, and 500,
ii. pp. 528. [Presented by the Publisher.]
Lieut Becker has seen much service in Africa in connection with the
International Association. He was for a considemble time stationed at Karema
on Lake Tanganyika. It is with his journeys to aud from Karema and his
residence there that these volumes maiidy detiL Lieut. Becker matie the most
copious notes of his observations and en^erienoes, so that his two volumes
abound with information, some of it of original value. There are numerous
appendices in which the author dificuascs several problems connected with the
71i
NEW GEOQrwVPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
opening up of Africa, and mnny illustrations, some of wbicla are ratber
sensational and imogmary. LieuL Beclvcr criticises some of Mr. Joseph
ThomsoQ*s statements with reference to Karema station somewhat severely,
Bliclllier» Max- — Kamerun, Skiziieu und Betrachtangen. Leipzig, I)ttncker'&
HumWot, imi : Hvo., pp, 13 and 260. I'rice 5*-.
Dr. Buchner^s * Sketches and l^e fleet ions ' are in tended more efipecially for a
German i>ubUc» liUt ns emanatinj^ from a traveller of repnte, whose knowledge
of Africa is extensive, they are c3eservin|j a wider audience. The author deals
with his subjects under three heads, viz, (1) Pliysical features of the colony
and inhahitauta ; (2) European residents and commerce; (3) Suggestions for
developing the resources of the colony. Dr. Bncbner very properly exposes the
fallacy of popular opinion as to tlie fertility of tropical Africa, but points out,
at the same, that the country surronnding the Bay of Biafra is exceptionally
fftvonred* The present resources of the district are small, and commerce still
lies in its swaddling clothes, but the potentialities arc very considerable. No
development on a large scale appears, however, to be possible until the Dtialla
(who at present aet as middlemen) shall have been starved into labour, and the
inland tribes shall have gained access to the coast. Dr. Buchner i« very out-
spokeo on negro equality, missionaries, nrio, aorl slavery. Tropical hygiene
naturally occupies a prominent place in a book written by a medical man.
EcidnZf [Dr J Hans. — Durch Stid-west 'Africa. ' Yerhandlungen ' Berlin Geo-
graphical Society, Band xiv. No. 7, 18B7.
Dr. Schinz, on whose travels in South Africa there have been recent notes in
the * Proceedings,* here describes the journeys ho made in the interior from the
German Protectorate ; he gives valuable notes of his observations on country
and people.
Schmidt (A.)--^Meine Eeise in Usaramound den Deutachen Schutzgebieten Central-
Ostafrikas, Berliti, Eugelhardt, 1886 ; 8vo, pp. 36. Price Is,
This is an unpretending narrative of the leader of one of the expeditions
despatche<l by the German East African Company, Lieut. A. Schiuidt left Baga-
moyo on August 29th, 1885, followed the Rulu as far as Muhonyera, made thenoe
an excursion to the Rufijijand finally proceeded to Sima in Ueagara, at that time
occupied by the late Dr. Juhlke. On his return journey he was attacked by
robbers near Kidete, and seriously wounded* He sucoeeded, however, in reaching
Saadani, having been tended during part of his journey by Samaritans in the
shaiie of British missionaries, Lieut. Schmidt mmle treaties with twenty-five
"Sultans" in U/vSramo and Ukamh His route led partly through tetTitury not
previously explored, and a map would therefore have proved very acceptable, for
that by Dr- T, Engelhardt to which he refers is quite inadequate.
SolaillBt, Paul. — Voyage & Segou 1878-79. Redig4 d'apr^ lea notes et journanx
de voyage de Soleillet par Gabriei Gravier. Paris, Challnmel Ain^ 1887: 8va,
pp. ivii. and 515. [Presented by the PublisheT.]
The journey described in the volume is somewhat old, and the ground
traveriied has been made familiar by other French explorers. M. Gravier tells
the story of M. Soleillet's journey in too minute detail, as if he had copied
every trivial incident recorded in the traveller's diary. Nevertheless the
Tolume contains much solid information* especially concerning S^gou and the
Niger, where M, Soleillet spent a cunsiderablc time. From Daker he went
north to St. Louis, and starting thence followed the Senegal to Medina, when
he stmck eastward by Bagu^ and Lambalako to S^gou. On returning he
varied the route by striking north-west from L:imbalak6 and by Nioro and the
Kaaiarem^ country down to the Senegal. M. Soleillet states in an interesting;
preiace that his great object in his travels has been to extend the influence of
France, which ought to reach from^ the Atlantic to the meridian of Tripoli and
I
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUGATIGNS. 715
from tho Mediterranean to the Gulf of Guinea. He suggests various ways by
vhich France might make easy trade-routes to the Niger, and maintains that
until merchandise can be conveyed cheaply into the interior, slavery will not
be abolished. There is a simple route-map appended to the volume.
Oppel, [Dr.] A.— Die religiOsen Verhaltnisse von Africa. * Zeitschrift ' Berlin Geo-
graphical Society, Band xxii. Heft 3 and 4, 1887.
A useful collection of data on religious distribution in Africa. Of the
various imported religions it is seen frum Dr. OppelV map that Mahomme-
danism occupies one-half of the contiuent. Up till the 1 1th century it occupied
only a fringe of the north coast. Between the 11th and 17th centuries it
spread south to about 10° N., and during the 19th century it has extended far
sout)i wards, especially in the west. The map shows also the distribution of
the various Christian mission stations.
Weiss, Kurt. — Meine Keise nach dem Eilima-Ndjarogebiet im Auftrago der
Deutsch-Ostafrikanischen Gesellschaft. Berlin, F. Luckhardt, 1886: 8vo,
l>p. 46, map. Price 1«. 6d.
Jiihlke, Karl.— Die Erwerbung des Kilima-Nscharo-Gebiets. Koln, Du Mont-
ISchauburg, 1886 : 8vo, pp. 33. Price 1«.
These small books deal with an expedition to Kilimanjaro, which the
late Dr. JUblke and Lieut. Weiss undertook on behalf of the German East
African Company for the purpose of making territorial acquisitions. They
left Pangani on May 10th, 1885, travelled up the Rufu valley, visited Vuga,
Masinde, and Taveta, arrived at Mandara's village in Moshi on June 15th, and
returned to the coast with '* treaties,** signed by ten independent chiefe, in their
pockets. Lieut. Weiss says of Chagga &at it may boldly be described as the
** Paradise of Eastern Africa," and that it promises to reward the labour of
German colonists a hundredfold. He supplies a good map on a scale of
1 : 400,000, with altitudes based upon boiling-point observations. Dr. JUhlke
enters more largely into personal and political matters than his companion.
Zululand. — Further Correspondence respecting the Affairs of Zululand and Ad-
jacent Territories. (In continuation of [C. — 4980], of February 1887.)
Presented to both Houses of Parliament by Command of Her Majesty, 1887.
London, Eyre & Spottiswoode, 1887 : folio, pp. vii. and 66, maps. Price 2«.
AMERICA.
[Andes.] — Estndio Orografico en la Cordillera de Mendoza y Neuquen, por el
Ingeniero de Minas Sr. German Ave Lallemant. Bolctin del Instituto Greogr&fioo
Argentine, tomo viii. cuademo viii., 1887.
Bell, Charles H. — The Selkirk Settlement and the Settlers. A concise history of
the Red River country from its discovery, including information extracted from
original documents lately discovered and notes obtained from Selkirk Settlement
Colonists. Winnipeg, Office of ' The Commercial,' 1887 : 8vo., pp. 44, illustra-
tions. [Presented by the Author.]
Brinton, Daniel 0.*— A Review of the Data for the study of the Prehistoric
Chronology of America. Address by Daniel G. Brinton, m.d , Professor of
American Archaeology and Linguistics in the University of Pennsylvania^ Vice-
President, Section H, before the Section of Anthropology, American AssociatioQ
for the Advancement of Science, at the New York Meeting, August 10th, 1887.
From the Proceedings of the American Association for the Advancement of
Science, vol. xxxvi. Salem, Mass., Salem Press, 1887 : 8vo., pp. 21. [Presented
by the Author.]
716
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUCATJOKS.
[Britiflh Collimbia.]— Dominion of Canada, Province of British CoMmbia. In-
formation for Intending Settlers. PLiblisbcd by the Government of CaxiaxJa.
Ottawa, Department of A^culture, 188ti ; 8vo,, pp. 32, 2 maps,
Illustrated, [The West Shore ; an Illustrated Western Magazine. June
1887 J Portland, Oregoaj L. Samnul: 8va
Bra WE, Marie A.^The Icelandic Distxjverers of America ; or, Honour to whota
Honour is due. London, Mane A. Brown, 1887: «m« 8vo., pp. vL and 213,
illustrations. Price 7s. 6^. [Presentai by the Authoress.]
In this volume the authoress endeavours to prove what nobody denies,
that America was first discovered hy the Norsemen, as far back as 982-86, and
totally denounces the fact of its having been first effectively discovered by
Colutjibus. The following is a list of the contents, which will give an idea of
the scope of the work i^Chapter L The Immediate Necessity of Establishing
the Truth. II. The Manifest Duty of the United States in this Question.
111. The Evidence that the Icelanders discovered America in the Tenth Cen-
tury. IV, Roman Catholic Cognisance of the Fact at the Time of ihe Ice-
landic Discovery. V. All the Motives for tbe Concealment and Fraud.
VI. ColumbuH* Visit to Iceland. VII. The Scandinavian North and Spain
Contrasted. VIII. The Norse Discoverers and Columbus Contrasted. IX* The
Beneficial Pesults to the Preuent Age and Posterity of Attributing this
Momentous Discovery to the True Ftrsous. X, The Celebration of it m 1985 !
XI, The liighted Position of the Scandinavitm North ^fter this Justice Las
I>een accorded to it. Bihliograidiy of the important books confirming the Ice-
landic Discovery of America^ from the years 1076-1883.
Condreau, Hem A.— La France fiqninoxiale. Two vols. Svo. and Atlas,
1886-7* I. Etudes sur les Gnyanes et FAmazonie, pp. xvi. and -130. II.
Voyage k travers les Guyanes et rAmazonie, p|). xxxvi. and 495. Paris,
Challamel Ain^. Price 16«. [Presented by tbe Publisher.]
M, Coudrean is at least a lively writer, abounding with enthusiasm and
animal spirits. He obtained from the French Government a Diission to
Guiana for the purpose of exploration and of investigation of its economical
resonrcca, and these volumes are the result of his labours extending over the
years 1881-5. The first volume is to a large extent a treatise on the resources
of French Guiana proper and of all that extent of country lying east and south
of all the Gujanaa which Franco claims from Brazil as her'a. t^ne chapter is
devoted to a history of the coloniwition of Guiana. Chapter ih tit^ts in great
detail of the resources of French Guiana, vegetable and mineral. The College
of Cayenne forma the subject of chapter iii., and the territtjry contested
between France and Brazil of chapter iv. Other chapters in this volume deal
with Pari; Eurot>ean emigration to the provinces of Guiana; Amazonia; and
the abortive republic of Counani, of which M, Coudrcau seems to be an
enthusiastic partisan. The second volume contains an extremely lively
narrativc of M. Coudreau's extensive wanderings in Gniaoaand the Amazonian
region. In an introductory chapter he describes an excnrsion which he made
to Counani, and the succeeding three chapters an exploration of the lake
region south of Counani and of part of the river Araguary. An excursion up
the Amazon, tbe liio Negro, and the Branco and into tlie neighbouring
regions, forms the i^nbject of succeeding chfipters, in which the author telb« us
much concerning ihe forests he traversed and tbe Indians he met with. One
chapter deals with the economical and social condition of the Rio Bianco.
M, Coudreau*s work is certainly full of interest, and affords a fair idea of the
character of the in leri. sting regions traversed hy him. The atlas of eight
large maps is an imix^rtant addition to the work.
OileB, Pearoe.— The True Source of the Mississippi. [Buffalo, N.Y., 1887] ; 8vo.,
pp. 53, maps and front bpieoe.
In this little pamphlet we have copies of letter?, and extracts from yarious
. KEW GEOGRAPHICAL POBUCATIONS. 717
newspapers in support of Captain Glazier's claim to having discovered the true
source of the Mississippi.
Glazier, [Capt] Willard. — Down the Great River ; embracing an account of the
discovery of the Tme Source of the Mississippi, together with views, descriptive
and pictorial, of the Cities, Towns, Villages and Scenery on the banks of the river,
as seen during a canoe voyage of over three thousand miles from its head waters
to the Gulf of Mexico. Philadelphia, Hubbard Bros., 1887 : sm. 8vo., pp. 445.
[Presented by the Author.]
Captain Glazier here presents us with a full accoimt of his expedition in
1881, lor the discovery of the true source of the Mississippi river. This he lays
claim to having discovered, and maintains that a small lake (Glazier) situ-
ated to the south of Lake Itasca is the true source. The greater portion of the
volume is devoted to a description of the second part of the journey — the de-
scent of the river in canoes from the newly-discovered source to the sea, a dis-
tance of 3184 miles. The volume contains many illustrations, besides two
maps, and a portrait of the Author.
[OnianaJ— Latest Correspondence on the Question of Limits of Guiana. Caracas,
1887 : folio, pp. 66, map.
EHudson's Bay Expedition.]— Heport of the Hudson's Bay Expedition of 1886,
under the command of Lieut. A. R. Gordon, b.n. 8vo., pp. 133.
This is a report of the third expedition sent by the Canadian Government
to investigate the navigability of Hudson's Straits, for purposes of commerce.
It contains, as usual, a deal of useful information on the region embraced,
divided under the following heads: — Narrative, Ice Observations, Notes by
Observers, Resources of the Hudson's bay Region, Meteorological Observations,
Report by Mr. F. P. Payne on the Flora and Fauna of Stupart's Bay, Report
by Dr. R. Bell on Economic Minerals, &c., concluding remarks on the Naviga-
tion of the Straits. With reference to the latter subject — the navigation of
Hudson's Straits — Lieut Gordon considers that the season during which naviga-
tion may, in ordinary years, be regarded as practicable for tne purposes of
commerce, will, on the average, fall between 1st and 10th July, and the closing
of the season would be about the first week in October. The report contains
two illustrations, three charts, and one plan.
Im Thum, Everard F. — Visit of the Governor to the Pomeroon District (July
1887). (Reprinted from the * Argosy.') Demerara, 1887 : 4to., pp. 8. [Presented
by Everard F. im Thurn, Esq.]
[Patagonia.]— Exploracion al interior de la Patagonia y costas del Pacifioo, por el
Tenitnte de fregata Sr. Augustin del Castillo. Boletin del Instituto Geogr&fico
Argentine, tomo viii. cuademo ix., 1887.
Sinclair, A. C, and Fyfe, Laurence B.*-Tbe Handbook of Jamaica for 1887-8 :
comprising Historical, Statistical, and General Information concerning the Island.
London, Stanford, 1887 : 8vo., pp. xii. and 680, map. [Presented by Sir Henry
Norman.]
Tanner, [Prof.] Henry.— British Columbia; its Agricultural and Commercial
Capabilities, and the Advantages it offers for Emigration purposes. London,
George Kenning, 1887 : 8vo., pp. 46, illustrations.
Wilde, [Dr.] Eduardc— Senado Argentino. Arrendamiento de las Obras de
Salubridad de la Capital. Discurso pronunciado por el Dr. Eduardo Wilde,
Ministro del Interior, en sesiones del 6, 7 y 8 de Julio 1887. Buenos Aires, Imp.
de La Tribuna Nacional, 1887 : 12mo., pp. 290.
718
NEW GEOGEAPHICAL PTOLICATIONS.
AXJSTKALASIA*
[Australasia.] — ^TmnHactions and Procwdioga of the Royal Geographical Society of
Australaaia (Victoria Branch). Yuls, iii, and iv,, January 1885 to December
1B8C. MLll>oume, 1887.
Tbis volume contains ruporta of pn>eeediDgs oo the return of Captain Everett'ts
New GuiQcji Exjjeditiun. Tha most hnportjmt paperH iire, ** Explorations on
the West Coafit of Tasmania," by C, P. Sprcnt, with map ; ** A Few Days
Ashore in W. Kimberley " by J. A. raxtoti* who also contributes a paper on
the probable ri\^er-syfitem of X,W. Anatralia, The Hon. John Forrest con-
tributoB a paper on the Kimberley ilistrictj while there are several papers on tbt*
subject of Autarctic cxplomtiun.
[AustraliaJ — HesuUs of Mete«irological Observations made in Kew South Wales
during 1885, under the direction of H, C, Hussfll, F.n.s., Government AstroDomer
of New South Wales. Sydney, Charles Potter, 1887 : 8vo., pp. 167 & 191,
Besulta of Rftin and Kiver ObBervations made in New South Walea and Part of
Qnocnflland during 188G. By H. C. Russell. 8vo., pp. 87.
Notes upon Floods and Lake Gtorge, By H. C. RusselL Sy*3ney, 1887 : 8vo.,
pp. 30.
Notes upon the History of Floods in the Kiver Djirliug. By H. C. lUisselL Sydney,
1887; 8vo., pp. 5o/
In these various piibUcatiana brought out under Mr, Rusaeirs superin-
tendeuco will be found much that will contributes to a knowledge of the
hydrography and physical ge<:igmpby of South-east Australia. As 5Ir. KuBsell
remarks, "The history of flixKlis in our rivers and lakes, if it oould be accurately
writteu, would form one of the most important chapters in the history of our
climate, and probably throw much light upon the kwa which control the
changes in seiisoos that have such |irominent effects upon a country like this,
almo0t wholly devoted to pastoral pursuits." Mr. Russell is going the right
way about to accumulate the material for such a history so far as New South
Wales is concerned. His Bystem of observations for ascertaining the amount of
evaporation in Lake George and at other stations, and the quantity of rain
which finds ha way into the rivers, and the character and ]>eculiarity of floo^is
in these rivers, will all lead to valuable re.sults^ not only for science but for the
economic development of the colony. Lake George, he tells us, is a lake which
varies much in size because it is so shallow, being never more than 25 feet deep
in the deet>e8t part ; it may bo taken as 16 miles long and 5 wide, or, roughly,
80 square miles of surface. It is 2200 feet above the sea, and surrounded by
high land. On this lake %*ery careful evaporation experiments are being made.
During the years 1874 to 1885 the level of the water in tlie lake fell 12 feet,
or at the rate of 13 inches per annum; and during the same jieriod the
average rain (a It there was 30*8 inches. Hence the lake lost, per annum, by
evajjoration durtrvg these years 43*8 inches — a result confirmed by actual
measures during 188G. Statistics of evajxiration observations from other parts
of the Colony are given^ the result being that evaporation depends very mach
on the state of rhe soil. If it is wet on the surface the evaporation goes on
from it much faster than from water ; but as the ground dries the condition ia
reversed and tlie earth evaporates less than the water. In the t)fti>er on Lake
George is a large map of the Iske, and in that on the Kiver Darling a large
table showing graphically the floods in the river from 1831 to 1886. |
Smith, S. Percy .^ — The Eniption of Tarawera; A report to the Surveyor-Geneml.
WeEiDgton, N.Z., 1886 : 8vo., pp. 81. [Presented by S. Percy Smith. Esq.]
This is a report of great value of a survey of the district affected by the
recent volcanic eruption iu New Zealand, by Mr. Percy Smith and bis assistants*
It abounds with information of the most varied kind and of high importance,
geographical, geological^ and cthoologicaL There are about as many illmtratioua
I
1
NEW 6K0GRAPHICAL PUBUOATIONa 719
and maps, well executed, as there are pages of letterpress. It deserves the
careful study both of the geographer and the geologist. It appears to Mr.
Smith that all the eyidence we have tends to prove the existence ot a reservoir of
molten matter within that part of the great fissure which underlies the moun-
tains of Tarawera and Ruawahia. The Tarawera eruption, he thinks, appears to
offer an example of the first stage in the formation of a volcanic mountain. It is,
in fact, an incomplete effort to form a volcano. As far as can be judged from the
])rescnt state of af&urs, the activity is fast dying out.
Fayenc, Ernest — Western Australia: its Fast History; its Present Trade and
Kesources; its Future Position in the Australian Group. Sydney, Turner &
Henderson, 1887 : 4to., pp. 84, map. [Presented by the Author.]
[New Zealand.]— Transactions and Proceedings of the New Zealand Institute, 1886.
Vol. xix. (second of New Series.) Edited and published under the authority of
the Board of Governors of the Institute, by James Hector, c.H.o., m.d., f.b.8.j
Director. Issued May, 1887. Wellington, Lyon & Blair ; London, Trtibner & Co. :
8vo., pp. xix. and 656, plates and map. [Presented by Dr. James Hector.]
Among the papers of geographical interest may be mentioned the following—
' Description of the Little Barrier, or Hauturu Island, the Birds which inhabit
it, and the Locality as a Protection to them,' by A. Heischek, f.l.8. ; ' Nar-
rative of an Ascent of Ruapehu,' by James Park, Geological Survey^ Depart-
ment ; and * Economic Antarctic Exploration,' by C. Traill.
OCEANIA.
Cottean, E. — Les Nouvelles-H^brides. 8vo., map, pp. 8. [Presented by the
Author.]
This is a copy of a paper read before the French Association for the Ad-
vancement of Science at the Nancy meeting, 1886.
GENERAL.
Abercromby, Hon. Ealph. — ^Weather : a Popular Exposition of the Nature of
Weather Changes from Day to Day. London, Eegan Paul & Co., 1887 : 8vo.
l)p. xix. and 463. Price 6«. [Presented by the Publisher.]
Mr. Abercromby is one of the most scientific of our meteorologists, and his
researches on the forms of clouds and on aerial currents are recognised as of
great original value. The results of hih researches are embodied in the new
volume of the International Scientific Series. The first part of the work is
elementary, and deals with such subjects as synoptic charts, weather prognostics,
clouds, and cloud prognostics. In the second or advanced section Mr. Abercromby
treats of isobars ; barographs, thermograms, and meteographs ; wind and calm ;
heat and cold ; squalls, thunderstorms, and non-isobaric rain ; pampas whirl-
winds and tornadoes ; local, diurnal, annual, and secular variations of weather ;
types and spells of weather ; forecasts for solitary observers ; forecasting by
synoptic charts. Thus it will be seen that while Mr. Abercromby's book is no
systematic treatise on meteorology, it contains much that is of great practical
value, and which will not be found in the regular treatises. There are about
100 illustrations.
Annuaire du Club Alpin Fran9ais. Treizi^me Ann^, 1886. Paris, Hachette & Cie.
1887 : 8vo., pp. vli. and 762, illustrations.
Among the papers of geographical interest are — 'L'Islande h vol d'oiseau
(La capitale ; les solfatares de Erisuvik ; Tlslande alpestre ; les geysers ; les
<j;lacier8 ; deserts de lave ; Akreyri ; Thingvellir),' by Dr. Labonne ; 'Ascensions
an Sinai (Le Serbal; le Djebel Moufa; le Raz Safsafeh),' by Charles G^;
< iltiide sur les chatnes et massifs du syst^me des Alpes (suite et fin),' by
E. Levasseur ; and * Relev& hypsom^triques r^ultant d'observations faites au
baromdtre par des membres du Club Alpin Fran9ai8, et calculi par le com-
mandant du gdnie Prudent.'
730
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUCATIOKS.
[The * ClialleJag^er ^ Voyage.] — Keportontlie Scientific ResulU of the Voyage of
H.M.S, Challenger during {the years 1873-76, under the command of Captam
George S, Nnrea, b.n., r,R.fl., and the late Captain Frank Toarle Thomson,
B.K. Prepared under the BiiiJerintendence of the late Sir C. Wyville Thomson^
Knt., F,B.8., &c., and now of Jobn Murray, one of the Naturalists of the Expe-
ditioiL Zoology — Yok xx., xxi (text and plates) and xxti, London,
Eyre & Spottiswoode, 1687: 4to., pp. (vol xx.), viiL, Ixviii., 275, 16, and
47 J (vol. xxi*) 513 ; (voU xxil.) viii., Ixv., and 335 ; charts and plates. Price
(vol, XX.) 40*. ; (vol xxl, text and plates), 708. ; (vol xxil) 50s, [Presented
hy the Lords Commissioners of Her Majesty *s Treasury.]
Corvo, Joio De Alldrade*^-*Estiidos sohre as Provincias UUramarinas. Lisbon,
1883-5: 3 vok. 8vo., i» pp, 305; ii. pp. 469; iil pp. 404. [Presented hy the
Author.]
This work is ^velcome as containing a vast amount of in format ion on the
histoiy and the social and economical condition of the Portuguese Colonies.
Cust, Bobert Needham [LL.D.l — Liuguistic and Orientfll Essays, written from
the year 1847 to 1887. Second series. London, Triihner, 1887 : 8vo., pp. xiv.
and 548. Price 2 Is, [Presented by the Author.]
This volume contains twenty-one esiiays, many of them of geographical
and ethnological interest. Nine of them refer more or Ivm to India on the
linguistic and political side ; two to Russia, comprising the serf question, the
Oxus province, and the Caspian; three to the empire of Turkey, including
Egypt; one to the French empire in North Africa; two to the languages of
Africa and Oceania; two to the International Orierjtnl Congress; one to the
four great European cities of antiquity j and one to the gec^raphy of the
ancients. The voluoie contains six maps.
Dry^Ukij [DrJ Erich von- — Die Gcoiddeforjnationen der Ei&zeit. Berlin,
Pormetter, 1887 : 8vo., pp. 116.
This is a long and elaborate paper discussing the influence of the ^ilaoial
epoch in motlifyiog the shape of the earth's surface. It apf)ears also as a papr
in the * Zeitschrift ' of the iierlin Geographical Society, Band xxii. Heft 3 and 4.
Eckhardti H^ — MatlhsEUs Merian. Skizze seines Lebens und ausflihrliche
Beschreibung seiner Topographia Germanifle, nebst Verzeicbuiss der dann enthal-
tenen Knpferstiche. Basel, H, Geag, 1887 ; 8vo., pp. 222, [Presented by the
publisher.]
This is an exccmlingly interesting sketch of a German publisher, carto-
grapher, and engraver of the seventeenth century, whose maps and atlases did
much to advance both geography and cartography,
[Educational.]— Lon^^nan's Shilling Geography, with 45 maps and 9 diagramR.
London, Longmans, 1887 ; 8vo., pp* 160»
This book cannot be commeuded ; it is written on the old bad lines, and
abounds in such misstatements and puerilities as these: — "A volcano is a
mountain from which ismoke, flames, ashes, and lava are thrown ** ; "A roadstead
is a part of the sea near tlie shore, and shut in hy sandbanks.** In the attempt
to distinguish between a town, a city, a village, and a hamlet, the writer gets
into a hopelesa mess. A hamlet, we are told, is "a small village where few
j>eople live.'' The first three |mges are occupied with fifty numbereti defSnitiona
after this manner ; the rest of the book consists of scarcely anything more
than crowds of names.
Lockyer, J. Nannan- — Outlinea of Physiography. The Movements of the Earth.
Loudon, Macmillan & Co.» 1887: Bvo., pp. xvi. and 130. Price If. M, [Pre-
sented by the Publisher.]
Mr, Lockyer states that what he has set himself to do in this httle work and
N£W GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
721
in others which he mienda to follow it, is to bring together those facts and lines
of thought which will enable us to take a survey of nature with strict relation
to the earth's place in it, esi)ecially from the jwiat of view of physioil astronomy.
The present instalment is what would be generally regarded as mainly astro-
nomical ; in successive chapt<?ra it deaU with tlie MeaBurement of Angular
Surface^ the Measurement of Time, Observing Conditions, the Rotation of the
Earth, the Earth's Revolution, Conditions of Kevolution, and Rfsults of Rotation
and Revolution. The volume is illustrated witb numerous diagrams.
Mohn, H*^Grundzuge der Meteorologie. Die Lehre von Wind nnd Wetter nach
den neuesten Forschungen geraeinfasaltch dargestellt von H. Mohn. Deut*jche
Origin al-Ausgabe. Yierte verbesserte Auflage, Berlin, D, Reimer, 1887 : 8vo.,
pp. X. and 364, 23 maps and 36 woodcuts. Price 6j.
Hosny, Leon de. — Les Heligions de rExtrSnie Orient. Legon d'ouverture faite a
rfici>le pratique des Hautes-fitudes. Paris, Maisonneuve Frfires & Ch. Leclerc,
1886 : 8vo., pp. 36.
Stmve* H. — Laudharten^ ihre Herstellung und ihro Fehlergrenzen. Berlin,
Springer, 1887 ; 8vo,, pp. viii. and 7£*, Price 2s, Gd,
A solid scientific treatise on map-coDstruction, and on the limits of error
in cartography.
[Tlie Colonie&J — ^The Colonial Book Circular and Bibliographical Record. Compiled
and published by E. C, Petherick, at the Colonial Booksellers' Agency, London.
No. 1, vol. I. September 1887,
This new jourual h likely to be useful to all interested in the Colonies.
The iirei ]mrt contains a select list of recent publications in all departments^
which no doubt many ooloniHts will be glad to have. Then follows a classified
list of recent Colonial publications and books relating to the Colonies.
TaxaldOf 0- — L'Origino di Cristoforo Colombo, * Bollettino ' Italian Geographical
Society, September 1887.
Si^or Varaldo examines anew the evidence in reference to the birthplace
of Columbus in connection with recent controversies on the gubjcct, and
concludes decidedly in favour of Genoa.
Teats, Jolm. — Technical, Industrial, and Trade Education^ 4 vols. 8vo. I. The
Natural History of the Raw Material of Commerce; pp. xx. and 504. 11 The
Technical History of Commerce, or the Progress of the Useful Arts ; pp. xxviii.
and 527. III. The Growth and Vicisaitudes of Commerce in all Agea, an
Historical Narrative of the Industry and Intercourse of Civilitsed Nations ; pp. xlvL
and 619. IV, Becent and Existing Commerce, with statistical supplement, maps
showing trade-areaSj and tabulated list of places important in business or trade ;
pp. xviii. and 516. London, Philip & Son, 18ii7. Price 246. [Presented by
the Publisher,]
This ia a formidable and elaborate work, a mine of information, much of
which will be found exceedingly useful by the student of what is known as
commercial geography, though much of course does not come within the geo-
graphical field. Dr. Yeata has been long known as one of the foremost writers
on commercial geography, for which he has done much. There ia still, how-
ever, room for a systematic treatise on the snhji-ct written \u the light of recent
developments of geography. One of the most valuable features of these volumes
is the large number of maps by which they are illustratetl, exhibiting in a
striking manner the various aspects with which Dr. Yeats deals. We can only
briefly point out such of tbo sections of the work as are of special geographical
interest. In the first volume, pert i. deals with the geography of the home
country^ the adjacent continent, our colonial dependencies, and foreign trad©
centres. In one chapter Dr. Yeats endeavours to show the results of climate
and soil on the industry of Great Britain, and in another the effects of geology
793
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUCATIONS,
on the industrial history of the British race. Other countries in this chApler
he treats in somewhat ihp same fashion. In this volume there is a Bmall map
of the wodd, isbowinc; the geonrraphical distrihution of the raw material of
inJustry and trade. The only distinctively geographical feature in the second
volume y an industrial map of the British Islands, exhibiting theclnof localities
of manufftcturing, commercial^ and agricultural industry, with the ratio of
populatiou in the different counties, and the towns classified according to their
respective jxjpulations. The map of England especially seems to ua on too
^mall a scale for practical \itility. Thia volume contains a great amount of
mmnte and curiouH iuformation. Volume iit. contains much of geograpbical
interest. It deals, for example, with the earliest trade routes, aod in ample
detail with the commerce of the ancients — Phoenicia, Aesyria, Babylonia,
Carthage, E^ypt aud Ethiopia, Greece, Rome; medieval eommerce— Byzan-
tlum, the Saraoene, the Italiao Republics, Portugal, Spain, France, EQ^^land^
Netherlands, Northern Euro|>e, Germany ; lastly, modern commerce, including
all the existing commerciat nations and their colonitjs* Here we have two
trade-route maps and a map of Great Britain and her colonies, to scale. The
last volume has also a gcK>d deal of gangraphy throughout its four |)arts —
I. British industry and trade at the close of the nineteenth century ; XL Foreign
and coioniiil relations at the close of the nineteenth century; IlL Commercial
policy of the second half of the nineteenth century ; IV. Natural divisions of
trade thronghont the world. Appended is a tabulated list, covering over
oO pagesj of towns or trade centres ioii>ortant in businessj giving in each case
the country, the local industry, the local market, nearest fiort, currency, appmxi-
mate mileage from Loudon, and natural diviiiion nf trade. This volume has
several maps, showing natural divisions of trade and thorough lares of various
classes. Such h a brief analji'sis of some of the leadinj:^ geographical features of
this elaborate and comprehensive work, which most have cost its author a vast
amount of labour and resi'arch.
The following works have also been added to the Library : —
Kitter, Carl — Gescbichte der Erdktinde und der Entdeckungcn. Vorlesungen an
der Universitat zu Ijerlin gehalteo. Herausgegeben von H. A, Daniel. Berlin^
G. Eeimer, 1861 ; Bvo., pp. vi. and 265, portrait.
' Allgemeine Erdkunde. Vorlesungen an der Univeraitat zu Berlin
^ohalten. Herausgegeben von H. A. Daniel Berlin, G. Keimer, 1862 : 8va,
pp. vi. and 240.
[ 1 Carl Ritter. Ein Lebensbild nach seinem handschriftlicben NachlasF,
dargestellt von D. G. Kramer. Zweite durchgesehene und mit efnigen Reisebriefen
vcrmehrte Ausgabe. Erster Theil. Nebst einem Bilduiss RitfcerB, Zweiter Theil.
Die Reisebriefe en thai tend. Halle, Verlag der Buchhandlung des Waiscobauses,
1875 : 8vo,, pp. (L) vi. and 458 ; (IT.) 320, portrait.
nrareniua, BemhardJ — Berahardi Vareni Med. D. Bescriptio Regni Japonia^ et
Siam. Item, De Jaix)morum Religione & Siamenaium. De Diversis omniujn
Gentium Religionihus. Quibus, praemissi Dissertatione de variia Rerum piibli-
carum gencribus, addnntur qua?dam de Priscf»rum Afrorum fide excerpta ex Leone
Africano. Cautabrigia% Joan. Hayes, 1673 ; 12 mo., i>p. 292.
Warburg Fever Tincture and Tonic Medicine. Statement proving, by numerous
official documents, its remarkable curative power m Fevers, with Evidence, show-
ing its great superiority to Quinine in All Fevers, not excepting Puerperal (see
p. 67X both as regards Efficacy, Economy, and Rapidity of Action, and its value
as a Tonic, in Debility and Convalescence. London, Dr. Warburg : 12mo,, pp.
74, portrait. [Preseuted by Sir C. W, Wilson.]
( 723 )
NEW MAPS.
(By J. CoLBS, Map Curator b.qa)
EUBOPE.
Denmark. —Goneralstabens topographiske Eaart over •— . Scale 1 : 40,000 or
1*8 inches to a geographical mile. Kalchographeret og graveret ved Generalo
BtabeD, Ejobenhavn, 1886. Sheets : Davbjerg, Hadsund, Hjarbcek. (Dtdau.)
France* — Carte de , dress^ par le Service Vicinal par ordre de M. le Ministre
de rint^rieur. Scale 1 : 100,000 or 1*3 geographical miles to an inch. Paris,
1887. Sheets : II.— 14, Landunvez ; II.— 16, He d'Ouossant ; V.— 13, Tr^guier ;
v.— 18, Lorient; VI.--14, St. Brieuc; XI.— 13, Falaise; XVI.— 6, Calais;
XXIL— 20,Louhans; XXIL— 32, Carpentras ; XXIV.— 24, St Julien; XXIV.
—26, Annecy ; XXV.— 25, Sallanches. Hachette et Cie., Paris. Price Id. each
sheet. (Dulau.)
Oesterreichsch'TTngarischen Monarchie. — Specialkarte der Scale
1 : 75,000 ur 1 geographical mile to an inch. E. k. militar-geografisches Institut.
Wien, 1887. Sheets: Zone 13, Col. XXV. Tokaj ; 13— XXVIII. Nagy SzOlliJa
und Huszt; 16— XXV. Debrecen; 15— XXVIII. Szin^rvdralja und Eraszna-
B^ltek; 17— XXV. Bereltyo-Ujfalu und E5ros-Tarjdn ; 17— XXVI. Grosswar-
dein; 19— XXV. Sarkad und Eis Jen5; 30— XVI. Livno; 31— XIII. 2irije
(Zuri); 34 — XVII. Neum und Stagno Grande. Price 1». id, each sheet,
(Didau.)
Waldenborg. — Special-karte des Ereises , von G. Olbich. Scale 1 : 75,000 or
1 geographical mile to an inch. Waldenburg, Enorrn. Price Is. 6d. {Dulau.)
ORDNANCE SUBVEY MAPS.
PublicatioiiB Uiiied during the mooth of Sepiamber 1S8T.
1-inoh— Oenenl Map* :—
ExGLAKD AKD WALKS : New Serlv. Sheet! 108, 223, 261 and 262 (on one), la outline.
6-inoh— Conn^ Meps:—
£NOLAin> Aim Walks ; Bedfordshire: 27 N.W.^ u. Bl^ec]^£>okshiJ■e' 20 K,W., u N.E.,
S.W.. 24 N.W., 27 N.E., 28 N.W, 40 N Ji. ; If. each. Carobrid^eflliiro ; bS.E.,m K\\\ 19 N.l-l,
20 S.W., 28 S.E., 29 N.W..8.E..34 N.K.,8.K.; If. eacli, Cajdiffanehlre: 1 K.t;.. aW.. H.E^
2S.W.; It. each. Carmartlienshire : 9 N.R, ii»N W ; li. i>a< h. De7onshli-« : 13S.W.,
21 N.W.. S.W.; If. each. Dorsetshire: 6 8.W.. m S.VV.. js N.W., s.W,, ai:., ?o S.W , S.W.,
33 N. W.. 34 N.W. ; If. each. Qlouoestershire : &a N. IL, ? i !^.£L ^ 1 1. eu h, H«T6fordshire -
37 N.W., S W.. 40 N.E., 8.W.. 41 N.W.. 43 N.K.. 44 N.W.. 46 JC.K., 8.E. i 1», catb. Hmitiliftd oa-
BMre: 10 N.E.. ll S.W.. 16 N.E^ 17 N.W.. 13 N.E., 19 N.W^ ^W,, S.t^ at U.K., 2& N.Jv; Ji.^-^ch.
lilnoolnshire : 29 N.W., N.E., 8.W.. &E.. 38 N.K.. aW., 47 K.W., D5 S.E., T9 j^,W., hi N>;.,
97 N.W.. N.E.. aw., 8.E., 112 N.E.. 113 N.W., 138 N.W,, 140 SAW S.E., 141 fi.K, aW . A K.,
143 N.W.. 147 &E.. 149 8.E. ; 1*. each. Merionetbehtre : r. S.K., Zi N.W., ^y svv.. 35 sw\
38 N.W.. 8.W., 39 N.W., aW.. 47 N. W., 4 8 N. E, ; 1 ^ .= Mont gom eryali ii e ; ] ^ S . W . ; It.
Norfolk: 62 8.E.,74 N.W., N.E.; if. each. Pembrokeshire: 32; 21. 6d. Somerset-
shire : 36 8 W., 47 aE.. 48 aw., 71 N.W., aw., 79 aE.. 84 8. W. ; u. each. Staffordshire :
4 aw., 20 aw. ; If. each. Suffolk : 12 N.W., 68 aw., 78 N.E. : If. each. Warwickshire :
ioaE.,28N.E.; if.each. Wiltshire : SO, 60 ; 2«. 6tf. each. 3NJi;i4.
26-inoh-Pariih Maps>-
EvoLAiTD AVD Walks: Brsokxiookshire : XXVL 4, 3f. Cambridgeshire: VTIT. 9, i^ XL
7. 8, 16. XXIII. 9, XXVII. 2, 4f. each: XXXI. 9, XXXV. 4. a^. fscb s XXJtV. T, 4J.; XXXV. *«. 3*. ;
XXXV. 16, 5f.; XXXVl. 1, 2, XXXIX. 2, 4, 7, 11. 16. 3i, eacb ; XL. 4. 5f.; XL. 7. 4J,| XU IL IC,
XLVL 2. 4, 8. 14. UlL 3. 7.34. each ; LIIL 16. 4f. Carmarthenshire : XXVL u, :u. Devon*
shire : XiX. lO, 4f.; XXX. 4. 8, CXIX. 10. 11, 12. 3f. ea^ ti. Ari» Uwk r iSrldetUiwe, u. Dorset-
shire : 1. 12. Ill 2. 12. VII. 1. St. each. Qlouoester«hlre : XX VL 4, ^. Herefordshire :
Xll. 14. 4f.; XXXL 8. 16, 3f. each ; XXXIIL 6, U. ; XXX VJ. va 3s. Xreioester shire t XXXIL
6. liincolnshire : XIL 2. Si. each; LXXII. 9, 4«.; LXXIL m, 13, u. 3i. Mirh; LXXVlJ^s.
41.; LXXVII. 4. 7, 11, 16. 16, 3t. each; CLL 6. 4f. monXetymerymhixm- .XXXtlJ. lo, 3i.
Norfolk: XXXIL 8, 4f.; XXXIL 12. 6f.; XXXn. 16. X%\\\L U. XLL », LVL 1. a. 6. 9. U», 13.
14. LVIL 1. LXVlll. 4. 7. 16. LXIX. 6, 4f. each; LXIX l*. :kr i LXLX. l:i, T.XWl L ■^- eadi;
LXXXL 2. 34.; LXXXL 6. 4t.; LXXXL6.3t.; LXXXLl4.4f. Northamptonshire: n.6.
41.; VIIL 4. XXV. 9. 13. XXVJIL 2.3f.each; LXXIL 4. 11. LXXVL 2. LXXXIIL3,LXXXV. 1,
31. each. Staffordshire: XXX. 16, 6«. Area Book: Dudley Castle Hill, if. Warwick-
Bhire : XXIlL l, 4f.; XXIIL 9, XXXL 3, 4. 8. 3«. each ; XXXL 12. &i. ; XXXL 13. XXXIL 1, 4.
31. each; XXXIL 8. 4f.; XXXIL 14. 3f.; XXXI V. 2. 4i.; XLV. 12. 16. St. each. Wiltshire:
xxvilL 15. XXXIL 6. 41. each ; U. 3. 16. LVU. 6. LXIIL 2, 3, Sf. each. Worcestershire :
Area Books: Hallow. Wamdon. Is. each.
Ko. XT.-^Nov. 1887.] 3 s
NEW MAPS.
Town Pliin«—i(^f«iBC4l«;—
Ekolavd aw Walks: Bridgewtter, L. 10» I^ U, 15, IR; 3#.«tLcb. Lclceftter. XXX f, 10. 9. 10. ST.
23, 24 ; XXXI, 14. J, 2, 3, B, «, 10; 3*. e*cb. March. XV'L L «*. 9, 13, W, 23 ; 2f, e*cb. isherbonie,
V. 16. 10; VI. 13, 1. % 3, «, T, «, 11. n. 1:1, 10, 17; 2/. l^»cll, W*rvrlck, XXXHL 10. 19, 21:
XXXIll. 13, U; XXXUX. 14. 2, fl» U. Wbbcch. VII, 3, H.
(Stan/ordf Agent)
AFEICA.
Algeria et de la TimiBic— Carte murale do r , dresa^ par J, GauUier,
geogmphe ; desaineo par A, Cuenot, Scale 1 : 8W,000 or 10 "9 geographical
miles to an inch. Paris, Maison Logerot — J. Gaultier. Price 12i, 6(/, in 2 sheets,
IBs, ihl, mounted on roller and varnished. (Dufan.}
Congo FrftURaiB.— Carte du , dressee en 1887 par ordre de Mr. le S« Secrdtaire
d'Ktat au Mini&tfcre de la Marine et dee Colonies^ par M. Ch. Rouvier, Capitalno
de Fr^ate, d'aprts lea travaux des explorateuiii A-an^ais et Strangers, Equa-
torial scale 1 1 1,840,000, or 25 '2 geographical miles to an inch. Price 2s,
(Duluu.)
This map baa been compiled from the latest availahic materials^ and is very
neatly drawn. Tlie boundaries* laid down are those which have been definitely
settltd by the commission of delimitaliou. AU heights are given in metres ;
the positions which have been fixed by Captain Ronvier are indicated, and
the positions of military poats, factories* and custom-honaea are shown by
symbol.
AMERICA.
Brazil- — ^Originalkarte der siidlichen Kolonicen von Rio Grande do Sul nnd der
Verkehra%H^rbindungen mit ibren Absatzorten. Nacb neuen Aufnahmen voii
Dr, IL voQ Ihering, L. Wertheimer u.a. aowio mit Benutzung dea vorbaodenen
Materials entworfen und gezeichnet von Panl Langhans. locale 1 : 500,000 or
6 "8 geographical milea to an inch. Petermann's * Geographisclie Mitteilungen,'
Jabrgang 1887, Taf. 15.— Originakkizzo der Deutschea Kolonie S, Louren^o
tmd der Beaacbbarten Kolonieen. Nach Aufnahmen von Dr. H, von Ihering,
L, Wertheimer u* Anderen entvv orfen u. gezeichnet von P. Langhans. Peter-
mann's * Geographische Mitteilongon/ Jahrgang 1887, Taf. 16. Jnstus Perthes,
Gotha. (Dukm,)
Florida. — Williams and BuabnelPs New Map of , compi^led from the surreys
of the U.S. General Land Office, the U.S. Coast Surveys, Private Surveys, and
other original aoiirces. By Arthur T. Williamii and John W. liushnell, Jackson-
ville, Fla,, 1886. Scale 1 : 250,000 or 3 '4 geographical miles to an inch. Oa
rollers.
This map being drawn on so larq;e a scale, shows distinctly the features of
the country^ and the aystem of symboUc shading adopted enables any person
to see at once the nature of the land, such as swamp and overflowed land,
prairie and savanna land, scrub land, high and dry hammock land, or open pine
land, all of which are indicated. All railvvnyis, whether m operation or pro-
jected, are laid down, and a note is given explaining the system of land survey
carried out in the State, the survey suctions l)eing also shown on the map,
Ontario.— Indexed County Map and Shippers' Guide of -=-. Scale 1 : 1,110,000
or 15*2 geographical miles to an inch. Bund, McNally & Co., Chicago.
(Tfiihner.)
Vnited States.— Indexed County and Townsbip Pwkct Map and Ship|)ers* Guide
of Maryland ajid Delaware. Scale 1 : 725,000 or try geographical miles to
an inch, — ludexctl Ck)unty and Township Pocket Map and Shippers* Guide of
Kew maps. "125
Miohigan* Scale 1 : 1,300,000 or 17 '8 geographical miles to an inch. — Indexed
Railroad and County Map of Kew York. Scale 1:1,120,000 or 16-3 geo-
graphical miles to an inch. Hand, M'Nally & Co., Chicago. (Truhner.)
PACIFIC OCEAN ISLANDS.
StUldwich Islands. — ^Map of the Hawaiian Islands, compiled from the latest
Government Surveys by S. E. Bishop, for J. M. Oat, Jun. & Co. Honolulu, 1886.
Scale 1 : 1,200,000 or 16*4 geogn^hical miles to an inch. Schmidt Label and
Lith. Co., San Francisco, Cal. U.S.A. — Maui, Hawaiian Islands, Hawaiian Govern-
ment Survey, W. D. Alexander, Surveyor-General. Scale 1 : 60,000 or 1 • 2 inches
to a geographical mile. 1885. 2 sheets. Julius Bien & Co., Photo, lith. — Map
of the Island of Hawaii, Hawaiian Islands. W. D. Alexander, Surveyor-General.
Scale 1:240,000 or 3 '2 geographical miles to an inch. 1886. Preliminary
edition.
The first of these is a general *map of the Hawaiian Islands on the scale of
16*4 geographical miles to an inch, coloured to show the boundaries of districts.
The next is a map showing the results of the survey of Maui, on the scale of
1 • 2 inches to the geographical mile. It has been produced by photo-lithography,
the heights are given in feet, and the topographical features are clearly indicated
by a combined system of hatching and contour lines. The third is a map
of the island of Hawaii, on which the same system of indicating physical
features is followed as in that of Maui. An interesting feature in this
map is the manner in which it shows the lava streams which have at
different periods issued from various positions on the slopes of Mauna Loa,
the dates of each being given where known. This set of maps beins the
result of actual survey constitute a valuable addition to the Society's Map-
room collection.
CHARTS.
Admiralty.— Charts and Plans published by the Hydrographic Office, Admiraltyi
in May, June, July, and August 1887.
No. Inches.
171 Index chart of Admiralty sailing directions. 3d.
1407 m = 0*5 Scotland, east coast: — St. AbVs head to Aberdeen^
2s. 6d.
2333 Lapland, sheet 1 : —Plan added, port Vladimer.
2250 m = 0*35 Baltic, Sweden :— Gotland plans, Faro sund, Slite
Hamn, Rhone Hamn. 2$, 6d.
2378 m =3 1*5 Black sea :— Btlg river. 2$. 6d.
1240 South Polar chart. 2s.
907 m = 0*8 Canada, lake Huron :— Georgian bay to Clapperton
island (plans, Little Current, Killarney harbour).
28, 6d.
1036 m = various Madagascar :— Bosi, Murondava, Vatomandri, Maha-
nuru. Is. 6d.
1263 d = 0*9 China sea. 2s. ed.
2683 ra = 0-2 Pacific Ocean. 5s.
^-^ Jm ^ 0*33) South-west Pacific, New Hebrides islands:— Banks'
(m «t 1*5 J group. 2s.
1022 m ^ various Islands and anchorages in the South Pacific ocean : ^
Bounty island. Antipodes islands. Canton island.
Canton island anchorage, Hull island, Phoenix
islands, Bimies island. Danger island, Nassau
island. Is. Qd.
8 s 2
I 726 MEW MAPS.
! . I No. Inches.
ill82 m = 4-0 England, west coast:— Card iff and Fenait
npi)roaches to. lis. 6d,
2151 m = 5*0 England, cast coast :— Broadness to Miicki
I . j including Gravcsend and Lower Hope
I i 28. Od.
: 2251 m = 0*35 Baltic, Sweden :~Kalniar aound and Ukiv
I - 28. 6rf.
* 2228 Tristan da Cunha group ;— Han added, Gough island.
■ j 2187 m = 1*75 Gulf of St Lawrence: — Miramichi bay. 2».
910 m = 2*0 Canada, Lake Huron :— Clapper ton channel
1323 Independcncia bay to Begueta bay :— Plan added, Salinas and Cbi<
1 1067 m •■= 1*1 Africa, west coast :— Loan go and Black Poi
j l8.Gd.
\ 228 m = 4*0 Arabia, north-cast coast :—Saadi Islands. 6<
832 m = 0*5 BayofBengaP: — Chcddba strait and Ramree
' 28.
833 Rangoon river : — Plan added, China Bakecr river.
' 864 m = various Coral sea : — Islets and reefs in the Conl sea.
reefs; Coringa islets; Flinders and adjacc
]«.
134 Harbours and anchorages in New Hebrides : — Plan added. Dives l
1071 m = 6*0 New Hebrides; — North coast of Aneitynmisli
Patiick, Ijipthav and Anau-un-re ancboraj
179 m = 3*0 New Hebrides: — ^Approaches to Pallikulo bay
(J. V. Votter, AfjenL)
CHARTS CANCELLED.
No. Cancelled bj
1407 Eyemouth to the Tay .. .. ) New chart, St AbVs Head to Abei
1408 P'irth of Tay to Aberdeen .. .. 5 deen
2250 Gottland New chart, Gottlacd .: .. .
2378 Bug river New plan, Bus: river
1240 South Polar chart New chart. South Polar chart .
2839 Ashrafi islands and reefs.
2683 Pacific ocean New chart. Pacific ocean
1182 CardiffandPenarth roads.. .. | ^^^ /»^»-^ Cardiflf and Penan
I roads, approaches to
2151 River Thames, fheet 4, Graves- 1 New chart. Broadness to Muckin
end reach / light
2251 Kalmar sound and Uland island \ ^^y!, ''l'*'!' ?*^°"'' "»«'>'l •»
( Oland island
2187 Miramichi bay New plan, Miramichi bay
604 Loango bay. Black Point bay on ) New plan, Loango and Black Poii
this sheet \ bays
832 Chediiba strait and Riunree road |^ Xew chart, Chedilba strait tt
and harbour j ^ Ramree harbour
f. 087 Plan on this bhect, Aliicr buy.
NEW MAPS. 727
CHARTS THAT HAVE RECEIVED IMPORTANT CORRECTIONS.
No. '2664. France, west co«i8t : — D'Arcachon point to Coiibre point. 2648. France,
west coast : — Coubre pf)int to Les Tables d'Ulonne. 2700. France, north coast :
— Port St. Malo. 943. Philippine islands: — Molucca passage to Manila.
2729. Ireland, north coast : — Sligo and Ballysadare bays. 2057. Ireland, west
coast : — West port bay. 2297. Baltic, Bothnia gulf:— Hango head to South
Quarken. 2234. Black Sea: — Sea of Azov. 235. Arctic Sea: — Davis strait
and Baffin bay. 1747. Gulf of St. Lawrence : — Northumberland strait, western
part. 2754. North America, east coast: — Long island sound, eastern part.
659. West Indies : — Florida strait 2446. Africa, west coast :— Niger or Kwarra
river. 923. Red Sea : — Harbours and Anchorages in Red Sea. 41. India, west
coast : — Kundari to Bona Pagoda. 828. Bay of Bengal : — Cape Comorin to
Cocanada. 136. Bay of Bengal: — Hdgli river, Calcutta to Saugor point.
823. Bay of Bengal : — Coronge island to White point. 218. Bay of Bengal : —
Mergui harbour. 1723. Australia, west coast : --Houtman rocks, and adjacent
coast. 2124. New Guinea, south coast: — Bramble haven to Rossel island.
982. Pacific ocean, Caroline islands : — Truk or Hogolu islands.
(J, D. Potter, Agent,)
Prenoh Charts.— No. 4143. Mer M^itcrrande. C^te Sud de Corse. Port de
Bonifacio. 1886.— 4166. Mer M^iterran^e. COte Est de Corse. Bastia. 1887.
---4174. Mer des Indes. C<^te Est de Madagascar de la Bale d'Antongil ik
Matitanana. 1887. — 4175. Mer de Chine. Golfe du Tonkin. Entries de KuaY-
Chin-Mun et Tsieng-Mun et Canaux int^rieurs entre Ed-Bao et Tien- Yen. 1887.
— 4147. Chine. C6te Nord de Formoso. Baie de Ke-Lung. 1886.— 4152. Mer
de Chine. Golfe du Tonkin. Canaux int^rieurs aux environs de Eo-EaT-Moun
et Dam-h4. 1886.— 4155. Mer de Chine. Golfe du Tonkin. Passes an Sud dc
TArchipel des Fai-Tsi-Long. 1886.— 4163. C6te Est de Chine. Hes Pescadores
(Mouillages Intdrieurs). 1886.— 4164. Mer de Chine. Golfe du Tonkin. Grande
Baie de FaT-Tsi-Loog. 1886.^4156. C6te Est de Chine. He Matsu. 1886.—
4171. Mer de Chine. Golfe du Tonkin. Canaux Int^rieurs pr^ de Tsieng-Mui-
Tao. 1887.— 4176. Mer de Chine. Golfe du Tonkin. Port de Eam-Fa. 1887.
—4160. Mer Rouge. Mouillage de Tile de Tirahn. 1886.— 4103. .Tunisie.
Golfe de Gab^. Baie de la Srira El-Ehedime ou des Sur^Eenis. 1885. — 4086.
Tunisie. CCte Est. Mahedia (Ancicnne Africa). 1885. — 4150. Mer des Indes.
Mouillages k la C6te Guest do Madagascar. Morondava. Bosy. lies Barren et
Atterrages de Maintirano. 1886. — 4157. Madagascar. Cdte N.O. Baie de
Mahajamba. Mouillage de Nosy Manja. 1886. — 4149. Mer des Indes. Mouillages
& la Cote Est de Madagascar. Vatomandry. Mahanoro. 1886.— 4161. Mer des
Indes. Mouillages aux Comores. He de Moheli. Grande Comore. C6te S.E.
Croquis du Mouillage dc Shendini. He de Moheli. Mouillage de Fomboni.
Grande Comore. CCte N.O. Croquis du Mouillage de Mitsamuhuli. Anjouan.
Havre de Pomony. Anjouan. Mouillage de Mutsammudu. 1886. — 4141. Mer
des Antilles. Haiti. Golfe de Port au Prince et He de la Gonave. 1886. — il53.
Amdrique Mdridionale. Chili. Baie d*Iquique. 1886. — 4170. Oc^an Pacifique.
Archipel de la Socidt^. He Huahine. Mouillages et Passes de Fare (Owhare).
1887. Service Hydrographique de la Marine, Paris.
Guyana. — Eaart van de Eust van , van de Essequebo-rlvier tot Cayenne.
bcale 1:750,000 or 10*3 geographical tiiiles to an inch. Samengesteld \iit ver«
7SB
NEW MAl»S.
Fclii 11 elide broanen. Uitgegovcn door liet Mioiflterie van Marine, Afdeeling
Hydrograpbie. ^8 Hage, Gebr van VkaL Price Ss, {Duiau,)
Java.— Kfiart van bet Eiland *, en ombg^endo pilandco en vaarwaters, uit de
joiif^.ste Wri;:ton en opnamen tczatnengefittdd door Jacob Swart. Amsterdam,
fxyffardfs BocklimideL Scale 1:500,000 or G'8 geograpbical miles lo on inch*
Price 11, 5*. G &beeta, {Dulau,)
United States Cliartfl.— No, 1014, CaldemBay. Island of Santo Domingo, Wett
Indies. l3. 3f/,— 1017. West Coast of Central America. Judas Point to Barica
Point. 25. 4rf. — 1045, Colnett Baj, West Coast of Lower California, Is. Id, —
1048* Coatzacoalcos River, Gulf of Mexico. Is. Ir/.— Pilot Chnrt* of the North
Atlantic Occrd, September and October 1887. Pablislied at tbe Hydrogrepbic
Offiocj Navy Department, Washington, D.C,
ATLASES.
Argentine Eepublic-^Atlas de la PepilbUca Argentina, constrnido y pnblicado,
pur reaolucion del * Instituto Geogrnfico Argentino* bajo los auBpicios del Exmo*
Gobiemo Nacional y redactado por el Dr. Arturo Seelstrang, miembro del
Instituto- Buenos Aires : Lit<^rafia y Encuadernacion do Gnillcnno Kraft,
1887. Part 11.
This IS tbe aecond isBii© of the atlas, and it conaiuts of three maps of
portions of the province of Buenos Ay res, two ma^js of the province of
Hanta-Fu, and one of tbe provinces of Tncuman and Santiago del Kstero ; the
two former are drawn on the scale of 13*6, and tbo latter 20*4 geographical
miles to an inch. Some of tbe sheets contaiu a good deal of now work ; all
meann of oommuDication are laid down ; tbey arc clearly drawn, and are very
creditable 8|>ecimens of cartography,
Berghails* PhyBikalisclier Atlas (begriindet 1886 yon Heinrich Berghaus).^
75 Karten in sicben Abteilnngen, en thai tend mehrere bundert Darstellungen
liber Geologic, Hydrographic, Meteorologie, Erdmagnetismus^ Pflanzenverbreitung,
Ticrverbreitung und Vulkerkunde. Vollatandig neu bearbeitet und unter Mit-
wirknng von Dr. Oscar Drnde, Dr. Georg Gerland^ Dr. Julius Hann, Dr. G.
Hartlaub, Dr. W. Marshall, Dr. Georg Neumayer und Dr. Karl v. Zittelj
herausgegeben von Professor Dr. Hermann Bergbaup, Dreizehnte Liefcrung.
lubalt : Nr, 13, Nord-Amerika. Nr. 19^ Seetiefen, Nr. 69, Scbraetterlinge.
Titel und Vorbemerkungen zum Atlas der Tierverbrcitung. Gotha, Jueius
Perthes. 1887. Price 38. each part. {Ditlan.)
The thirteenth ptartof tliis atlas, which is being Issued with commendable
punctuality, contains three sheets of miiiJs. Sheet No. 13 is a geological map
uf North America, on which twelve inset maps of dilferent districts are given,
drawn on greatly enlarged scales. Sheet No. 16 is a map of the world on
Mercator'fl projection, showing ocean depths, coasts, harbours, and the density
of tbe sea; in addition to this, many iuteresting circumstances connected with
hydrography are given, such as the limit of coral formatioo, the portions of
coasts indented by fiords^ and ]X3rtionfl of the earth's «iurface below the sea-
level. Mr. Buchanan 3 maps exhibiting the density of the ocean are given on
a reduced scale, as well as eight plana of characteristic harbours. Sheet No,
59 contains »ix maps, three of which are given to illustrate the distribution
of macrolepidoptera throughout the world, and the remaining three have
reference to tbe distribution of land and freshwater tooHuhcb. As usual^
with previous parts of this atla?, several pages of explanatory letter-press are
given.
With this part the following: portions of tbe atlas are now complete :—
Mtteurology, distribution of plants, and ammaU.
I
NEW MAPS. 729
Xndla. — Statistioal Atlas of ■ ■-, prepared for the Colonial and Indian EzhibU
tioD, 1886. Calcutta, printed by the Superintendent of Government Printing,
India, 1886. London, Edward Stonford. Price 12«. 6d.
This atlas contains eight maps and three diagrams, illustrative of the
physical geography, meteorology, agriculture, irrigation, trade, and emigration
of the Indian Empire; these are accompanied by 37 pages of expUmatory
letter-press, and statistics. The maps have been prepared and printed in the
office of the Surveyor-General of India, and the chapters have been written by
gentlemen specially qualified to undertake the task. Under these circumstances
it is hardly necessary to say that the work, as far as it goes, is thoroughly
satisfactory ; and those persons who are desirous of obtaining a more intimate
acquaintance with facts and figures concerning India are referred to the 1 9th
number of the series of statements annually issued by the India Office, exhibiting
the ' Moral and Material Progress and Condition of India,' published at the
close of 1885, under the editorship of Mr. James Sutherland Cotton ; except,
however, in the cases of persons who may be making an exhaustive study ot
some special subject, the present work will be found to contain all the informa-
tion that is required for general reference, the maps and diagrams being well
suited to the purpose for which they were produced, and the letter-])ress clear
and definite.
Saint^Martin, M. Vivien dc. — Atlas Universel de Gdographie Moderne, Ancicnne
et du Moyea Age, construit d*aprds les sources originales et les documents les
plus rocents, cartes, voyages, mdmoires, travaux g^oddsiques, etc., avec un Tcxto
Analytique, par M. Vivien de Saint-Martin et Fr. Schrader. Environ HO cartes,
gravies sur cuivre sous la direction de MM. E. Colin et Delaune. 7e Livraisoo.
Contenant : Italic m^ridionale ; Empire Kusse (Asie septentrionale) ; Ocdanie
(carte gdn^rale). Paris, Hachette et Cie. Price 5^. (^Dulau,)
This is the seventh issue of the atlas. It contains three mapf, all of
which are beautiful specimens of cartography. That of Southern Italy (scale
1 : 1,500,000) has been reduced from the 1 : 100,000 map of the Italian General
Staff, except in some districts where maps of the scale of 1 : 50,000 and 1 : 25,000
have been consulted. An inset map of the environs of Naples is given on the
scale of 1 : 500,000. The next map is one of the Russian Empire, scale
1:15,000,000 is reduced from Schwartz's map of Siberia on the scale of
1 : 1,680,000, the 1 : 4,200,000 map of Russia in Asia, the first and second
parts of Richthofen's atlas of China, and the map of the Corea, published in
' Petermann's Mitteilungen,' map 10, 1883, and other reliable sources. The
third map is one of Oceania, on Mercator's projection. It is just twelve
months since we received the last issue of this atlas, and it was then
announced that a number of the maps were then in the engraver's hands.
This fact does not appear, however, to have expedited its publication, and at
the present rate at which the numbers are issued (viz. three in each year) it
will still take rather more than twenty-nine years to complete.
Stanford, Edward. — London Atlas of Universal Geography, exhibiting the
physical and political divisions of the various countries of the world. Folio
edition; ninety maps, with a Geographical Index. London, Edward Stanford,
1887. Price, half-morocco extra, 12/. ; full morocco, 15/.
This atlas is in a great measure composed of the maps of the late John
Arrowsmith, and published by him in 1840 in his ' London Atlas of Universal
Geography,' which title Mr. Stanford has given to the atlas under consideration.
The plates of the maps referred to have received numerous corrections to bring
them up to date. This must have entailed a work of considerable magnitude,
and one which could scarcely be expected to be carried out without some over-
sights. The work of correcting old maps is always unsatisfactory, being a much
more difficult task than the construction of entirely new ones. It is possible thut
PROCEEDINGS
OF THB
ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
AND MONTHLY RECORD OF GEOGRAPHY.
A Journefj round Chinese Turkistan and along the Northern Frontier
of Tibet. By A. D. Carey.
(Head at the Evening Meeting, November 28tb, 1887.)
Map, p. 790.
In the latter part of May 1885 I left Simla, intending to spend two
years' leave of absence in carrying out a long-cherished scheme of
travelling on the frontiers of Northern Tibet. Through the kindness
of the Government of India I was furnished with a passport from the
Chinese Government authorising me to visit Turkistan, China Proper,
and Tibet, and I had also provided myself with a stock of presents suit-
able for the different classes of people I should have to deal with,
without which the utility of the passport would have been much
diminished.
I had selected the treaty road to Ladakh through the Eulu and
Lahoul valleys in preference to the Kashmir route, and started by the
Great Hindustan and Tibet road — the somewhat high-sounding title
given to an excellent bridle-path from Simla to the Sutlej. After
passing Narkanda, a favourite resort of holiday-makers from Simla
during the spring and autumn, crossing the Sutlej below Kotgarh, and
traversing the entire length of the Kulu valley, I was delayed for somo
days at the Rotang Pass, separating Kulu from Lahoul. The baggage
was carried over by coolies, but in consequence of the depth and softness
of the snow the unladen mules could not cross until the 20th of June. At
Kailang, the residence of the venerable Tibetan scholar and missionary,
Dr. Heyde, I was joined by Mr. Ney Elias, British Commissioner in
Ladakh, also bound for Turkistan, and, travelling in his company,
crossed the Baralacha Pass at the head of the Lahoul valley with some
difficulty on the 7th of July. At Leh I found Mr. Dalgleish, whoso
services I had secured as Turki interpreter and assistant for the trip,
awaiting my arrival, he having come down a few days previously from
Y'aikand, where for some years past he has made his home.
jMy plan was to reach Turkistan by the route through the unin-
habited tract of Tibet lying between Rudokh and Polu, which is now
No. XII.— Deo. 1887.] 3 f
7sa
A JOURNEY ROUND CHINESE TURKISTAN
rarely^ if ever, used. Acting on tlio advico of Mr, EHoa, who fi-eelj
gave me the henefit of his great experience, and with the assistance of
Eai Bahadur Eadha Kisheu, Wazir of Ladakb, I struck a bargain for
baggage*ponies with the Tartars of the frontier villages on the PangoDg
Lake, and left Tankse on the 12th of Anguat with a caravan of thirty-
one men and forty-nine ponies. To save the ponies as long as possible,
yaks were engaged to carry the baggage as far as the frontier between
Ladakh and lludokii, at the head of the Changchenmo valley- An easy
road DOW led to the Mangtza Lake, a fine sheet of salt water alhout nine
miles ia length, and to another small lake close by, from which salt is
collected by people from Rndokh and Ladakb. The severity of the
stmggle for existence in these l)aiTen regions is well illustrated by the
fact that natives of Baltistan bring dried apricots from Scardo ta
Tankse, and return with salt from tho Mangtza Lake along the bed of
the Shy ok river, over as rough and bad a pathway as can be found
anywhere, the burden on each man's back being more than 120 lb, — a
striking example of verj^ hard work for the smallest possible recompense.
At tho Mangtza Lake wo struck the road between Kudokh and Polu,
which was surveyed by Kishen Singh, one of the Pandits attached to Sir
Di Forsyth's mission to Turkistan ; and as the guide we had with ua
turned out to bo entirely ignorant of the route, we were obliged to find
the way for oui'selves with the aid of the Pandit's map and notes.
Thanks to the admirable care and accuracy with which his work had
been done, we found no very serious difficulty in doing this, and reached
Poln without the loss of a single baggagc^animal on the 12th of
September, exactly a month after leaving Tanks^.
At various times, and notably in tho Geographical Eeport by Colonel
Trotter printed at chapter vii. of the Eeport of Sir D, Forsyth's mission,
hopes have been expreesed that this road, if rendered available for
traffic, would form a valuable trade route, as it runs direct to India
without passing through any part of the temtorj^ of tho Maharaja of
Kasshmir, Judging from tho portion of it which I saw, I do not think
such an expectation can be realised* From the frontier of Ladakh to the
Sulphur Horse Pa®* at the head of the Polu ravine the road is certainly
an easy one, inasmuch as it is fairly level and free from obstructions or
very bad places. But the great height of over 16,000 feet at which it
runs, and tho resulting oppression of breathing during so many days
continuously, make it extremely trying to both men and animals. The
grass at such an elevation is always coarse and scanty, and probably
August, September, and Octuber are the only months during which it
wonld be safe for a trader^s caravan to attempt the journey. Snow fell
almost daily during my march, though it f^nickly melted; and the
Tartars subsetjuently informed me that on thoir way back in September
and October snow fell on eighteen successive days, and they lost several
of their poni» s in consequence. Another drawback to the route is that it
4
AND ALONG THE NORTHERN FRONTIEE OF TIBET.
738
enters Tarkietan at a point too distant from the markets of Yarkand and
Kasbgar, The ravin© from the Snlphur Horse Pass to Polti is so difficult
as to he impracticable for laden baggage-animals. I succeeded in getting
through it onlj through tho splendid qualities of the Tartar ponymen,
-who carried the loads on their shoulders over the worst parts of the road.
With any other class of men it wouhl have been almost hopeless. Tb©
water in the bed of tho torrent, which has to bo crossed many timesj
was fortunately low, or the ravine would have been impassable. I am,
however, not sure that another and easier road to the foot of the pas«
■tloes not exifitt though from the cantious reserve of the Polu villager I
was unable to obtain any definite information in reply to my inquiries
<m the subject. But in any case I am convinced that the route is a
nBelefifl one for trade purposes. The chief point in its favour is that it
avoids Kashmir territory, a consideration now of no importance since,
owing to improvement in our political relationts wifh Kashmir, traffic
passing through that State by the Srinagar and Miirree road is as free
from interruption as on the treaty road vitl Lahonh
The existence of the Polu road from India was entirely unknown to
the Chinese authorities at Kiria, and the news of our arrival appears to
have caused some consternation. We were informed that the garrison
was called out at midnight, and 200 men were sent half-way to Polu,
while the commanding officer, with a smaller body of men and several
Mabommedan officials, came to Polu on the evening of the 10th, having
marched more than oO miles during tho day. The next morning they
paid me a visit, saw the passport, and were very cordial and profuse in
oflers of assistance* The Chinamen spent a HvLy in exploring the road
by which we had come down, and before returning to Kiria instructed
the villagers that all our wants were to be supplied.
Leaving Polu, we followed the Kiria river, which has cut itself a
channel 200 or 300 feet deep in the soft earth. The banks are so precipi-
tous that we had some difficulty in finding a place from which tho
water was accessible for our camp.
Kiria, the chief place of the district of the same name, is a small
nnwalled town, with a fairly good bazaar. The principal industry of
the district is agriculture. As elsewhere in Turkistan, farming opera-
tions are entirely dependent on irrigation from the streams which are
fed by tho melting of the snow on tho mountains, and tho Mirab, or
officer, whose duty it is to regulate the supply of water to the cultivators,
is a functionary of considerable importance. Within the area of irrin-a*
tion the country is dotted over with poplar, mulh^iTy, and other trees,
and is extremely fertile. Good crops of wheat, Indian-corn, cotton, <l'C.,
&c,y are obtained, while fruit especially grapes, melons, and peaches —
and various kinds of vegetables are plentiful and good. Outside tho
zone of irrigation all is waste and barren.
The respect and civility shown to us, as Englishmen, by all classes
3 F 2
734
A JOURNEY ROUND CfllNESE TQRKISTAX
of the people were very marked. I was often rather enihaiTassed, when
Btrolling about the country^ "by the attentions in the shape of presents of
fmit and sweetnieats^ invitations to stop and partakeof tea, and so forth,
offered me by tbo inmates of tho farmhouses near which I passed, while
the ilow of visitors to the garden in which we were encamped was
constant. Crowds of sick persone begging for medicine also besieged ns.
Kiriii is connected with Khoten by a good bridged road with well-
grown roadside trees, affording a grateful shade wherever the soil
admits of iL Siibstantial marks have also been erected at intervals of »
" fotai," or abont 2^ miles. The road pasises through a good deal of very
ban*en country,
Khoten m a busy manufacturing town. The people are good work-
men, and more enterprising than Turks elsewhere, as they make long
joumtys into the hills in search of gultL The principal manufacture**
are c4irpots, silk, felt, and brass and copper vessels. Tho area of arable
land is too small to snpplj' the wants of the population, and com and rice
are consequently imported— tho former from Kargalik, and the latter
from AksTi and Kuchar. The Mahommedan city, al'out 2J^ miles in
circimiferenoe, is very poorly built. The new or Chinese town, about
half a mile distant from the old town, contains tlie public offices, the
baiTacljs, and a wide stret^t of shops, neatly and regularly built. Tho
population is stated to be about rso,O(>0 souls. Euins of tho wall of an |
ancient and innch larger city which included the sites of the present
towns are distinctly traceable at many points, I left Khoten on tho
10th of October by the Aksu road, which follows the left bank of the
Yurangkash river. Two miles from the city cultivation ceased, and,
'with the exception of a small piece of land at Yangi Arik, 10 miles from
Khoten, and another somewhat larger at Tawakal on tho opposite or
right bank of the river, about 40 miles from the city, no cultivation was
met with until Shah Yar was reached. There is plenty of land, to all
appearance suitable for the plough, lait the water-^aupply is considered
insufficient to irrigate a larger area tlian is already tilled. Tho road
now follows the river up to its junction with the Karakash at a camping-
ground called Koshlash, alxiut 68 miles from tho city. The Karakash
must next be forded, after which the ronte is along the left bank of th«*
united stream, now styled Ihe Khoten river. On either bank is a thick
belt of jungle, fumi.shing an ample supply of wood and grass to Iravellerft
and shepherds, and giving nhelter to large numbers of pheasants and
hares. Beyond the strip of jungle, which is of varying depth, is a desert.
About 00 miles from Khoten we passed two adjacent and parallel ranges
of hills, which rise abruptly from the plain to a height of 500 feet or
more, and are known by tho name of Jlazar Tugh from the tomb of a
^aint on the summit These bills run in a north-westerly direction
until they cross the high road between Tarkand and Aksu, at a point a
few miles north of Maralbashi, where we afterwards recognised them.
AND ALOXG THE NORTHERN FRONTIER OF TIBET.
735
The peculiar feature in those hillB is thai, though touching ono auother
Atid Tunning side by aide, the range to tho uorth is white in colour,
while the southern one is a strongly-marked red.
From this point tho river had dried nj\ and Avater was very scarce.
It was only to be found in jhjoIs few and lltr between which had fornxcd
ill tho bed of the river beneath the banks. This inconvenience was,
however^ compensated by the advautago of no louger Laving to follow
all the sinnosities of the bank, and finding an excellent and direct road
down tho river-bed. Tracks, both uf the tiger and of tho JIaral stag»
were now very numeroua ; but the jungle is so dense and the wood of the
bushes forming it so brittle, that anything like stalking w*as impossible.
Beating might bo more succossful, though it would be very uncertain^
owing to the thickness and extent of the jungle, and is, moreover, im-
practicable* because beaters are not procurable, there being no inhabitants.
The only chance seemed to bo by night watch ing, but, though I sat up
throngh several nights by ptxils of water in likely-looking places, I was
never fortunate enough to get a shot.
Tho party of Russian explorers under Genei*al Frejevalsky loft
Khoten for Aksn, a few days before niy arrival at tho former place. I
had hoped to overtake them and muke the acfiuaintance of that dis-
tinguished traveller, but on reaching the Tarim I was informed that he
had gone on to Aksu four or five days prcxnonsly.
Crossing the Tarim at the ferry, we followed its course as closely as
the nature of tho country permitted. At first the jungle was exceedingly
dense and thorny, and as there was very little trace of a path, it was
sometimes no easy matter to make way througV it. Alxnit 20 miles from
tho ferry we left the bush and entered a large plain covered w*ith high
grass, and extending for man}^ miles, until at Tippak we left the river,
mid after crossing 13 miles of desert, reached the outskirts of Shah Yar.
Six miloa farther is the small town of Shah Yar, in the midst of rice-
fields, containing about 2000 iuhahittmts, and the residence of a Chines©
•official styled Dalai, snbordinate to the Amban of Knchar.
As the camelmeu who had brought our baggage from Khoten were
•nnwilling to enter into a fnrther cngagcnient, and wished to return, we
now made efforts to procure fresh carriage. The Dalai declined to give
ns any assistance, and, after making many frivolous excuses, ended by
stating frankly, no doubt with perfect truth, that it waa more than his
place w^aa worth to allow us to proceed any farther in the direction wo
Oiad been travelling. I therefore went on to Kuchar and prefened my
request to the superior ChioLse officials. They w^ero \Qry civil and
obliging, but at the same time showed a strong relact*ince to sanction
any more travelling off tho main road. Eventually I carried my point
on giving them a WTitten assurance that no respunsibility should attach
to them in case of any mishap, and contenting myself with a ciiravan of
<lonkeys — tho only animals they declared that could travel hi that part
786
A JOURKEY ROUND CHINESE TURKISTAN
of the country. The donkeys supplied were certainly very fine speci-
mens of tlieir kind, but it was not long before we found that thoy were
peculiarly unsuited for the sort of ground we had to traverse.
At the last moment the Amhan asked me to allow him to show me
some lux wking in the country- 1 was going through, and I unsuspectingly
consented. On I'etiirning io Shah Tar we received a most cordial
welcome from the Mahommedan Begs of the district, whose acqtiaintance
we had made during our former visit, and lost no time in again turning
our steps towards the river. We had now heen juined by fifteen mounted
men, with among them nine hawks and two black eagles cjilled Kara
Kuflh or Birkut. The sport was interesting^ but daring the second day
wo discovered that they were conducting us by a circuitouB route
towards tho high road I had been endeavonring to avoid, and that the
hawkers were policemen in disguise with an insixsetor at their head, and
a clerk whoso duty it was to make a dailj reijort of our movements to
the Amban of Kuchar — in a word, that wo were practically in the
cu8tod3'' of the police. This undesirable escort was promptly dismiesGHi.
To ray agreeable surprise, they made no difficulty about returning, and
evidently looked on the game as up as soon as their scheme to put tis
on the main road had been detected by the aid of the compass. We
therefore parted on good terms, and 1 intrusted them with a friendly
message to the Amban, thanking him for the sport I had enjoyed. We
were now once more free, and, altering our course, soon reached the
bank of the northern branch of the Tarim, The route hiy through a
swampy tract crjvercd with high reeds and rushes, and entirely sub-
merged when the Tarim is iu high flood. We found it very difficult
ground for a caravfin of laden donkeys. On the iiigher ground clear of
the marsh, the soil is a iine saline dust in which tho foot sinks deeply,
and it is therefore very disagree^ible and fatiguing to walk on. The
goneral character of tho country from Sliah Yar to Kultokmit Kul, the
point at which tho two branches of the Tarim reunite^ is a dense reedy
swamp with occasional sheets of water in the area reached by the flood-
waters, bordered by a desolate saline desert.
The Ugcn river is not an independent stream, hut a branch of the
Tarim which reunites itself with the main channel at Kultokmit
KuL The Inchiki, or threadlike river, as it is appropriately called, m
very narrow and deep, and flows between high hanks. It i& called the
Shah Yar river larthcr west.
Up to the midtile of Kovember the weather had been very pleasant
in camp, but the cold was now rapidly strengthuning j and 1 therefore
moved up to Karashahr, intending to go into winter quarters for a few
weeks. Earashiihr is a poor and dirty town inhabited by Tunganis and
Chinese, with ntimerDiis encampments of Kalmaks in the vicinity. The
Kalmaks cxposo their dead to bo eaten by the ownerless dogs which
swarm in the town ; and I was tt>ld that it was no uncommon thing for
AND ALONG THE NORTHERN FRONTIER OF TIBET.
737
living persons lying drunk on the ground to be killed and eaten by the
doga. There is no improhabilit}' in the statement, as the Kalmaks are
much addicted to drinking, I found Karashahr so unpleasant a place of
reBJdcnce that, as soon as I had satisfied the requirements of politeness
hy exc'hangiiig Yif^its with the local officials, I retraced my steps to
K.urla» a much larger aud cleaner town, peopled by Turks who are pre-
ferable as neighbours to the forward and in«|ui3ltiTe Chinese and
Tuuganis. We were immediately accommodated in a large and com-
fortable house, and iililisod the halt in purchasing and equipping a
small caravan of ponies, and making preparations for the contemplated
journey to the south. I became o\vTier of 15 excellent baggage-
ponies, equjpi>ed with bridles, clothing, and other necessary gear, for
a little more than Es. 1000, I also arranged for 43 donkey-loads of
Indian corn to be delivered at Fort Kara Koshin in the Lob Nor district
as a precautionary meaeurc, in the event of supplies being difliciilt to
obtain there. During our stay Dalgleish dispensed medicines of Avhich
1 had brought a large stock, and as he was very succeesful in a few
cases, sick people froai the country soon thronged to the house in very
inconvenient numbers.
I left Kurla on the 8th of February, and after exploring the course of
"ihe river, which flows past it, as far as Kdenchi» struck down to Loh.
Among the Turks of the districts I had hitherto visited, and also
among the Chinese officials, the most extraordinary ignorance prevailed
regarding the Lob people. We had been repeatedly assured that they
were much addicted to robbery » and that our horses would certainly
be stolon, that they were infidels who spoke an unknown language,
and generally a ver^^ bad character was given them. All this proved to
bo the reverse of the truth, as they are all Mussulmans, speaking Turki,
and I never so much as heard of the CKJCurrenco of a highway robbery.
So far as I could see, the inhabitants of the Lob district are no worse
than their neighbonrs, but they are poorer, and this no doubt is their
real crime. On the other hand, the people of Lob are equally suspicious
of all strangers^ and do all in their power to disL'Ourage their entrance
into the district. At any rumour of an outbreak of small-pox, a
disease they much dread, in Kurla or its neigh boiirhood, the road is
at once closed to all* It was now closed on account of a virulent form
of sorethroat which had caused much mortality at Kurla ; but a special
exception was made in our favour, partly no doubt from ilie reputation
which Dalgleish had acquired as a doctor. A short time previously I
had found it necessaty to abandon an intention of paying a flying visit
to Kuldja by direct route from Karashahr, because the road had been
closed by the Kalmaks as a precaution against the introduction of
small-pox.
Tho Lob frontier station is Xultokmit Kul. In general character the
country was similar to that we had seen so much of on the banks of the
738
A JOUli.XEY ROUND CHINESE TUKKISTAN
I'd with reeds and high coarsa
Tarim higher up — swampy ground c
grass, but we now had a ^octd and c^asy load, as everything was frozen
hard. In warm weather a circuitons roail over the sand hills which
fringe the swamp would have to bo taken.
Js'asir Hakim Bt% tho principal officer of the dmtriet, aeoompamed
tis from Kultokmit Knl to his residence at Kirchin, where we were
hospilahly entertained. He assembled 40 or 50 horBemen dnring my
stay to beat for tigers whicli had lately killed several of the villagers'
cattle. We saw one which had lain up on the ice in i\iG high reeils near
a cow it had killed, and on hearing the noise made by tho horse's feet,
aacendod a low mound of sand at a distance of abont one-third of a mile
from ua to see what was comiug. It was forthwith hotly pursued over
tho ice hy the whole troop, hut ineffectually, as it w^as not seen a^ain.
From Kirchin a roiid runs across the desert to Turfan, the district to
which Lob is administratively atttiched, the Hakim Beg being snb-
ordinate to the Amban of Torfan,
Tho nearer we approached the Great Lake, tho stronger grew the
evidence of the miserable poverty of the district. Chaklik is the only
place where we saw cultivation, and tho only manufacture appears to
be a kind of coarf:e cloth or sacking made from tho libre, resembling flax
of a plant called " chigh.** Apart from their sheep, the people depend
main]y for subsistence upon fish, and on the ducks and wild fowls whieh
visit the lake in enormous numbers at the time of the annual migrations.
In return for the few imported goods they require, they barter sheep,
the sacking above referred to, and tho skins of otters, foxes, and wild
swans. During the summer months, largo parties of them move off into
the'mountains to obtain 1 tetter pasture for their sheep and C4ittle, whilo
avoiding the mosquitoes and other insects which abound neiir the luke,
and also to shoot }ak and wild assea for the sake of their hides.
Besides the natives of Lob, a small settlement of Khoten people,
forming a distinct quarter of tho village, is established at Chaklik.
They remain under the juiisdiction of the Amban of Kiria, and are not
under the Amban of Turfan. Thoy are said to be refugees from
Charchand, a place to which bad characters from the Khoten dihtrict
used formerly to l>e banished. Thoy are much smarter and more
energetic than the Lob people proper, and make long journeys into the
monntaius in search of gold. It need hardly bo said that there is a
standing feud between them and the other inhabitants of the village,
I now experienced the advantage of possessiug a small caravan of my
own and a supply of grain. Had 1 been dependent on local supplies, I
should have been obliged to pay very exorbitant rates fur everything
required, and in all probability, should have failed altogether to make
the arrangements neceasaTy for a long march. But when tho people
saw my baggage-ponies and tho large stock of grain I had brought from
Kurla, and purchased from the Hakim Beg at Ivirchin, they modornted
AND ALONG THE NORTHERN FRONTIER OF TIBET.
739
their demands, and I was able to obtain additional stores and hired
baj>gage-ariiinals at rates not more than three times aa high as those
iniliog at Kiirla.
(/haklik is now a mere viUage, but, fioiii ih^ ruins of an old town
wall still distinctly traceable, it would appear to have beeiL a more
important place at some former time. The old high road from Khoten
to China probably passeii by it, altbongli tbero is now no intercourse
between Lob and Sachu, the road being entirely disused, A Chines©
official from the Governor-General at Uramtsi, who visited Cbaklik
during my stay there^ was very anxious to go over the road and report
on it, but could get nob<>dy to point it out to biiii, no doubt becauso
there was little probability of any payment for the guido being forth-
coming. The Mandarin aftervi^ards came to my tent to ask for informa-
tion, and was shown the direction in which Sachu lay, and tohl the
distance. ILid I wished to go to iSiichu, I should Iiave found no difficulty
in procuring a competent guide on pajmient
A direct road runa from Chaklik to Kuchar, vu\ Jigda Bashlam.
The weather during December, January, and February, though very
cold, had been calm, clear, and fine; in March the cold was less severe,
but high w^inds with frequent dust-storms prevailed and continued
throughout April. Frosts ceased in the second week of April.
My preparations being complete, I struck camp on the 29th of that
month, and started for a pass over the Altun Tagh moim tains by whicli
1 should be able to reach the road from Abdal, used by the Kalmaks of
Karaahahr when travelling into Tibet, Our march wan at first over
the strip of barren land lietween the lake and the mountains, but after
crossing the backbone of the range at the Tash Dawan, or stony pass,
the coantrv^ much imxiroved and gfx^d patches of grazing were met with.
This was followed ly another l)arrcn tract at point» in which, near the
TJgen Shor plain, footprints of wild camels were conspicuous ; and wo
then found ourselves at Bagh Tokni, where a halt was made in a large
j>atch of cscellent ]nisture-land for the benefit of the Imgguge-animals.
Tho guide Abdul la and donkeymen engaged at Chaklik hero became
troublesome, and demanded that we should turn back, or at least go no
farther in a southeni direction. Though it was very inconvenient to
]>art with them so soon, I feared that discontent might spread to my own
Kervanta and the donkeymen engaged at Kurla if I pressed them to go
farther. They were therefore dismissed in disgrace. As soon as they
«aw that I had no intention of turning back they became verj^ humble
mid begged to be kejit on, but I tirought it better not to consent to this,
as the same thing would almost certainly have happened again a few days
later. I therefore iosisted on their forthwith moving off from the neigh-
bourhood of my camp, retaining only one man who had been engaged as
a guide from the Kboteni section of the village and had not joined the
malcontents. This involved our making ver^' short marches for some
740
A JOURNET ROUND CHINESE TURKISTAN
days, and s&udiug Lack somo of the animalB for a portioa of the storeBy^l
aa witli our reduced transport all could not be carried at once.
We crossed the Chiman Tagh range of moiiu tains by the Amban
Achkan Pass. The view to the south from the top of the pass Bhowod us
a wide plain with a good deal of water about it, and another formidable
range of SDowy mountains beyond in the distance. A big lake called
the Chong Knm Kul stretebed away to the west farther than we could
see, and a large river flowed down the plain from east to west, emptying
itaelf into the lake. On descending we found that the plain was a huge
morass which could not possibly be crossed by our baggage-animals, and
we therefore had to follow the right bank of the river for some forty
miles to the eust before a place for crossing could be fouod. The Kalmaks»
who nsually leave Abdal in May and return from Lhassa in February or
March, are able to cross this plain when homeward-bound in the winter,
but are obliged in summer to make a circuit to avoid the morass.
The weather now boeamo very cold, with frequent fenowstorms, while
the gi*as8 was so scanty and poor as to cause us much anxiety. After
a few days, during which the evident doubt aud uncertainty of our
remainiTig guide were somewhat disquieting, we attempted the passage
of the Kuen Lun range. Our guide bad often assured us that the pass •
waa au easy one, that he was well acquainted with it, and that on
reaching the top we should see another wide plain before us intersected
by the Kizil Su or Ma Chu river. However, he now was, or appeared to
be, completely at fault, and after some hours of marching conducted us
to the brink of a mighty precipice. Then with dramatic action be threw
his sheepskin cap on the ground, struck himself twice on the forehead,
sat down and wept aloud. Wo begged him to compose himself and try
again, but it was unavailing ; he could only rei>eat that he had quite lost
the way, and did not kntjw where the pass was.
As soon as the tents had been pitched, I started to ascend a high
peak near us from which a good view over the country could be obtained,
but the prospect on reaching the summit after a stiff climb was most
dishearteDing, There was no indication of any broad plain or any
opening likely to lead to a pass, but a panorama of veiy lofty snow-clad
mountains at least 50 or 60 miles deep was alone visible, and presented
to all appearance a quite insurmountable barrier to our further progress
southwards. After carefully considering the position, I decided to turn
to the east and keep along tho foot of the range until an opening was
found. This also we found to be impossible, as the valley was abso-
lutely sterile, being not only bare of vegetation, but without argals to
Kcrve as fuel. At tho end of three days, and after being comi>elled to
burn the ri^lge-pole of one of our tents, we struck through the mountaina
to the north in search of grass to save the lives of the animals, and
happily found a leas barren valley which brought us to a place called
Bokalik, at which the people, who later in the year came from Khoten
AXD ALONG THE XORTHEnN FKOXTIER OF TIBET.
741
and Charclian to dig for gold, maintain a sort of standing camp, leaving
their baggage-animals to graze here while they push on to tho gold-
fields eaid to lie at a distance of about 50 miles to the south. No ono
had yet arrived. We now sent the K.hoten guide back to his home at
Chaklik, as he could ht> <jf no farther yso, and was another mouth to be
filled from our diminishing stores.
The Bokalik valley is a continuation of the swampy valley we had
entered after crossing tho Amban Achkao Pass, though separated some-
where by a riJge, as the water was now flowing east instead of west.
Our failure to find the pass to the sotith, if one exists, was a great mis-
fortune, as the baggage-animals suficred severely from tho total absence
of forage, and the men too had been senously alarmed by the uncer-
tainty of the road, and the uninviting aspect of the countiy. Their
confiiience was now thoroughly shaken, and a quiet but constant and
strict watch on them bad in future to be kept to pre%'ent any imprudence
on their part.
A good deal of snow, hail, and rain fell while wo were in this valley.
About 17 miles below liokalik avo crossed a river flowing down from
the Kuen Ltin range, with a bed about J mile wide. The water was
of a deep brick-red colour, and fell into tho river in the centre of tho
valley which was now a very considerable stream* Alxmt 50 mile.s from
liokalik this river turned ofi" to the north thruogh an opening in the
Cliiman Tagh range, leaving us again in soine perplexity as to the
direction in which our march ought to be continued. I had mad© up
my mind to work as straight as iiossible across country to tho Nuichi
valley, where we hoped 1o find an encampment of nomads and good
pasturage for the animals now reduced to little more thansldn and bone.
But we had no guide, and were directing our course ontiroly by compass
and sextant, as the map for all this region shows a blank space. Before
going further we determined to halt and explore a little l>oth to north
and south, Dalgleish followiug tho river while 1 endeavoured to find a
w^ay through the mountaice to the south, Dalgleish found traces of
Mongol camps, ami a well-marked path which at one point was entirely
blocked by a fall of the mountain, making pasmge impossible without
crossing and recrossing the stream — at this time of year quite un ford able.
On the other hand I found no insuperable obstacle to our crossing the
mountains to the south. In point of fact we were no great distance
from Ilajjar, the resilience of the Chief of the Thaichinar Mongols.
But in the map which accompanies Pandit A— — -lis explorations, this
place is shown about (iO miles to the north-east of its real position, and
apparently farther from us than Xaichi. We therefore pushed on in
the direction of tho latter place, the road rapidly rising and bringing
us into a very barren region. Snow fell on several days and lay on the
ground. Eventually we crossed a pass whieli, though it presented no
difficulty, was very trying to our exhausted animals, and entered a wide
742
A JODRNET ROUND CHINESE TURKISTAN
Yalley containing numerous lakes and mucli swampy ground. Hail or
snow fell almost every day, and oppression of brea tiling was severely
felt by nearly all of us.
It was now of importance to ascertain our exact position, for although
we know thut we were somewhere about tlio latitude of Naiehi, we had
no means of iixirig our lougitmle, and with every confidence in
Dalgleish's c^re and skill as a navigator, it was impoesiblo not to feel
that we might l>o much further from Naichi than his dead reckoning
fehowed us to he. For 80 diiys wo had not seen a single human being
outside the ciiravan, and my men were naturally gloomy and dispirited,
I find no fault with them for this, as there was good ground for tbeir
distrust, and they had had much discomfort and hard work; while all
our luxurieM having long since been exhausted, tlonr, tea, and such meat
as I could get b}" shooting was the sole ration. All through this march
the wild animals were miserably lean and poor. They too had suffered
from the scarcity of grazing. But our most serious anxiety was on
account of the state of the baggage-animals, now only able tu make very
short marches with great difficulty. When, therefore, on the 20th July
wo suddenly came on unmistakable marks o( human feet on the soft
earth— even the most impassive members of our little company were
somewhat excited, while the impulsive Turks threw themselves on the
ground, kissed the footprints, and sobbed with delight. There were no
more downcast looks now, ami soon all in the highest spirits were busily
engaged in pitching the tents on a spot where the camp-fires of the
party before ua were still warm. Our neighbours wore pilgrims, several
hundreds in numbers, from the provinces to the cast of Kukonor, who
WQTG marchiog in three detachments to Lhassa. All carried arms of
some kind, and were in great dread of a band of robbers believed to be
lurking iu the vicinity. Wo were now able to verify our jjosition, and
found that we were betw^een the Euen Lun and Khokosili ranges, and
just south of the Angirtaksbia Pass, Our position was indeed very
nearly what we bad su])poiaed it to be, though but for the fortunate acci-
dent of the pilgrim caravan^ only one or two of which go down this
road annually I having crossed the plain a day before us, we sliould un-
doubtedly have ])ushod further on down the valley, and so missed the
Naichi valley and the road to the south.
Wo now turned our steps north%vard to Naichi, not without much
reluctance and misgiving on my part, as the best season of the year for
travclliu<T was couimencing, but it was an absolute necessity to obtain
fresh stores, and to rest and feed up botli animals and men. The
Angirtaksbia Pass presented no difficulty whatever, but the Naichi Pass
six miles further on was steep and trying to our exhaii8t**d baggage-
animals. When covered with ice and snow it must be very difficult
indeed. The number of wild animals in the neighbourhood of these
was surpiiaing; antelopes were incredibly numerous, and we
AND ALOXG THE NORTH£KN FRONTIER OF TIBLT.
743
L
also saw herds of yak and kiang (wild aeses). A few miles of easy
descent brought us on the 25th July to Amthuo, a campiDg-groiind in
the Naichi valley with good grazing, plenty of firewood and water from
the Naichi Gol close at hand. Tliere were no inhabitants, owing
apparently lo fear of robherst and two days later I left Balgleish in
charge of the camp» and started for Golmo in eearch of stores with one
Tartar and two Turkish servants. One of the latter, a Kalmak who
had embraeed the Mahomniedan faith, spoke the Mongolian language.
The road down the valley is difficult in summer from the depth of water
in the river and the badness of the fords. I therefore made my way
across the inonntains by the Sosani Pass, which is steep and stony, and
would be quite impracticable when covered with snow. On emerging
from the Kutn Lnn Range, a barren satidy desert lay before us, but
f(*l lowing the eonrse of a stream called Tura Gol, and keeping to the
foot of the mountains, we reached a very desolate-looking piece of
jungle. The ground here was saline and treacherous in many places. A
narrow f»>otpath leads through it which cannot be quitted except under
penalty of sinking deep in a fetid quagmire from which animals can
only be extricated with great difficulty. Beyond this the pasture
grounds of the Thaichinarnomads appeared in view thickly dotted over
with felt tente, and wo pitched our tiny camp in the midst of them.
After some delay, owing to the male population at that time of day (lato
in the afternoon) being mostly in a state of intoxication, I commenced
negotiations for the purchase of stores. Sheep and butter w^ere readilv
supplied, but barley and eatu (meal made by grindiug parched barley)
could only be obtained in very small quantities and with much difficulty.
There are no traders among these Mongols, each family get*! from Kborlu
once a year a supply of barley sufficient for its own requirements, and
does not care to sell any part of it. Moreover, stooks were low as the
harvest time was approaching. The people seemed quite unaccustomed
to money transactions, and liargains were only made with a good deal
of trouble. Had I brought with me a stock of goods for barter, «i2ch as
tea and cloth, matters would have been much simplified. A part}- of
Lamas gathering contributions for the great monastery at Kumbum
-were encamped here on my arrival. They had already collected several
hundreds of horses and camels, a few horned cattle, and some thousands
of sheep and goats.
Finding there was no chance of obtaining barley, I determined, on
the advice of the Mongols, to move on to Bhaga Tsaidam, taking tlio
road np the valley as far as Thugthe, and then striking across the salt-
waste to the north. The heat on the salt-plain was great, and the
ground being soft, and often covere<l w^ith two or tbreo inches of
saturated brine, was most trying to the ponies, one of w^hich died, and
1 he others were much exhausted. Beyond, a rough path through the
hills soon brought us to the lake of Bhaga Tsaidam, about six milcn
744 A JOLTRNEY RO0ND CHINESE TUREISTAN
long, wliicb is strongly impregnated with salt. Ilere we found
abundant signs of a recent large encampment of nomads, but in con-
sequence, a& we subsequently learned, of tbe occurrence of a case of
Bm all-pox, they bad dispersed themselves over tbe country. Tbis waa
inconvenient for reckoninp; with certainty on being able to procure
food at Bbaga Tsaidam ; I bad brought with me only a very small
supply, which was already exhatihtetl. I now sent the two Turks back
to Golmo, and started with the faithful Tartar, Dogpa, for IToiduthara.
Tbe road was rough and the horses had both cast shoes, we were there-
fore obliged to Tjviilk and go very slowly.
I cannot refrain from here recording an act of great and unsolicited
kindness shown us at this time by a young Lama who was travelling in
company of a Chinaman towards Khorln, Observing our exhausted
condition, bo hastened on to Hoiduthara, borrowed a pony, and immcf*
diatcly rode 10 miles back to meet tis with fowb With joyful sboutij
be first thrust into my hands a bag, made of the paunch of a sheep, full
of water, then another small hag containing satu, and a third containing
chura. A\'o had then been almost without food for four days, and as
may be supposed, never enjoyed a meal more. Considering that we
were strangers and quite ignorant of the Mongolian language, and that
our ragged and travel-stained appearance was not calculated to excite
hop€B of much Iteing forthcoming in the way of reward, I was greatly
touched by this kindness siiown to us at a moment of sore need.
There was a good strip of country under barley at IToiduthara, but ,
only servants were in charge, as the farmers had gone off into the
moimtains with their flocks and herds to avoid the beat. The Mongols
are a pastoral people, and look on agriculture as an inferior occupation
which may be left entirely to servants, I have never seen more careless
farming. No attempt at weeding is ever made, and in many fields the
crop of weeds is larger than that of barley. The only field work needed
at the time of my visit was the management of the irrigation, and tbis
was attended to by labourers on horseback, who used a long stick to
make openings in the channels, and bo saved themselves the trouble of
frequently dismoontiug, JMongolians seem quite incapable of walking;
a woman will get on a pony to go 200 yards from ber tent to milk her
goats, and I noticed that men who w^ere far too drunk to walk, or even
to stand, seemed quite safe as soon as they had licen lifted on to their
horses.
The ctiltivators are prohil>ited from selling their grain by the Bosi
or Chief of Khorlu, who takes his revenue in kind, and claims the right
to sell as much as ho sees fit from his own stores before any one else can
sell at all. All purchastjrs have therefore to present themselves before
him in the first instance. He had just started to pay a visit to the
Wang or bead of the Mongols of this part of the country at Dulankit,
not far from the Kokonor Lake. I therefore engaged horses and set off
AKD ALOKG THE KORTHERK FRONTIER OF TIBET,
745
at once in purfiuit. Fortunately his camp for the day was in the hills
at Choko, only 35 niilee distant. I was, in the first instance, conducted
to a large felt tent, which did dnty as an antcchaml>cr, %vith a fije in
the middle, on which stood a pan containing tbreo or four gallons of
boiling teftj while sacks of satn and chura and a wooden bowl of butter
Btood near the door. All comers helped them selves freely to these
delicacies. Several sheep's tails were twisted into the lattice- work of
the tent, from which Visitors who preferred it to butter cut off pieces of
fat from time to time, and ate them apparently imcooked. Afterwards
the Besi aud bis wife, both in full dress, received me in their big tent,
he wearing his official bat aud robes and button as a noble of the Chinese
Empire. The ceutit? of the tent was occupied by two young women
engaged in kneading a large piece of dougb. After an amusing inter-
view, the Besi gave me an order for barley, though not fur the full
quantity I required, but refused baggage-animals to carry it to Naichi
on the ground that at this hot time of the year they would die on the
road. Tie also objected to cross the TLaichinar valley to Tfl^aichi, because
it was beyond his jurisdiction* It was impossible to induce him to yield
on this point. There was indeed a good deal of force in hia objections,
as the Mongols never do take laden animals in the summer time across
the salt-plain, where no fresh water can be got for long distances*
At Hoiduthara there waB a Gompa or monastery of about 150
Buddhist priests and acolytes, located as is usual among the Mongols in
a large fejt tent, A Lama, who paid me a visit, infornn^d me that the
Gompa was going to change campj and that many of the priests would
probably be willing to sell their stock of mixed satu and chura (butter-
milk boiled down to a powder) collected, a handful at a time, by begging
from tent to tent. I at once authorised bim to announce that I would
buy all they brought me, and next day I was busily engaged in purchas-
ing the offerings of the faithful, which were brought down by the priests
in small quantitien ranging from five pannds to half a pound. In the
afternoon the monastery t<^rnt was struck, and the stream of monks came
to an end.
I now started with Dogpa for Tenkalik, in the hope of being able to
make further purchaser, easily finding my way by the light of Pandit
A,*— E.^B deecription of the route. At Chakangnamaga, a grazing
ground at the southern extremity of the Thosu-Nur Lake, I again met
the Lamas returning to Eumbum, whom I bad previously seen at Golmo,
They seemed much pleased at the meetings insisted on unloading my
two ponies, pitching mj tent for mo, and regaling me with richly-
bt^ttered tea.
At Tenkalifc I succeeded in purchasing some barley, and returned to
Harmugan Namaga, near Golmo, where I rejoined Dalgleish and the
camp after an absence of thirty-seven days. The road up the valley
lay through thick jungle, with many bushes of a sbrub called *' barmo "
L
746
A JOURNEY ROUND CHINESE TURKISTAN
b
l>earing "berries, reeombling red and black currants, but with little
sweetness or taste. Horse-flieifs Bwarm at this time to such an extent
that the Mongols have tu drive off their ponies nml cattle from some of
the best pastureB. A snperior official had now arrived ut Harmugaa
Xaman from llajjar, and it was soun apparent that we must not expeotj
any assistance towards further exploration to the south* This was
shown bj the people declaring tbem&elvea unable either to grind some
of the barley for us or to lend ns the hanti'mills reqnired, I, there f< ire,
did not waste time by asking for a guide, but started at ooco with Dal-
gleish and two servants — a Tartar and a Turk^-and suppbes for about
a month, to see as much of the road to the south as jioasible. The other
tervants and spare baggage were left in charge of the Mongol official.
Snow had already commenced to fall on the hills, and we soon found
that the ponies, though improved in condition, were still quite unfit for
a long and hard marcb» By tbo time I bad reached the Clm-Ma river,
at the foot of the Khokosili raountains» I was driven to the conclusion
that all thought of going further must be abandoned. My leave would
expire in the fallowing May^ and if, as I had every reason to anticipate, my
onward progress was stopjKHl by the first official of the Lbassa Govern^
raent I met* I should find myself unal^u to return befure the spring, as
the ponies would not be fi^t for the march hack without a rest, and in
the meantime the passes to the north would be closed. If this had
happened I could not possibly have reached India until many months
after the end of my leave. There was, therefore^ no option hjjt to turn
liack at once, to my very great regret.
From the imposeibility of obtaining trustworthy information or a
competent guide before leaving Chaklik, I had unavoidably lost much
time. Had I to make the journey over again, I should start from
Charehand, instead of Chakhk, whence Bagh Tokai is reacbt^d by a
good road in twelve days, then cross the Amban Achkan Pass, and follow
the valley eoutli of the Chi man Tagh Range past Bokalik to Bulantai.
From that point I eliould make as straight as possible for the Naichi
valley, where a stay of some duration would be necessary to rest tho
baggage-animals. During tho halt sheep, butter, and such other
supplies as were procurable from Golmo might be sent for. Then the
journey to the south might he resumed with a caravan in good marching
order.
About 80 miles from Harmtigan Namaga we reached Hajjar, the
residence of the Jhasa or chief of the Thaichinar Mongols, The road
lay through a miserable country, mostly desert and in parts covered with
a saline efflorescence, I had now seen prott/ nearly the whole of
Thaichinar, and found it almost as poor as the Lob district* As a
pasture-ground tho Naiehi valley is far superior to any otLer part of the
tract of country under tho Jhasa's jurisdiction, but it has the disadvan-
tage of being too frequently visited by bands of robbers. A march of
*
n
AND ALONG THE NORTHERN FRONTIER OF TIBET. 747
^about 90 miles from Hajjar over an uneven, barren, and desolate country,
with occasional beds of salt, brought us to Makhai, the pasture-ground
of a small settlement of nomads, and after travelling about 50 miles
farther over similar country, and crossing a low range of hills by a pass
called Eotuli-la, we reached the Obo or shrine in the Saithang plain
where there is a large nomad camp. At the end of another 100 miles,
we arrived at Sachu with a Chinese population.
The Mongols are a timid people and very poor. But I found them
friendly and hospitable, and received from them many acts of kindness.
They are extremely suspicious and troublesome to deal with in any
matter of business, such as the purchase of stores. Being constantly
oheated by the Chinese, they cannot believe that any one can mean to
<lcal fairly by them, and an immediate assent to their terms or any
liberal offer seemed to have the effect of doubling their suspicions, and
causing them to raise some fresh obstacle. The town of Sachu is
situated in a small but fertile oasis. It is on the right bank of the
Danga Gol river, which is crossed by a wooden bridge about 70 yards
in length. Each side of the town measures under half a mile. It is
surrounded by a mud wall, in fairly good repair, with several gates
surmounted by guard-houses of the usual Chinese junk pattern. The
interior of the town is uninteresting, the houses are poor, and in many
•cases dilapidated, and there are no large buildings. Sundricd bricks,
mud, and timber are the only building materials. The town contains a
bazaar with several good shops, but the trade is confined to a retail
traffic for supply of the wants of the residents and of the Mongol nomads
south of the mountains. Farmhouses are scattered along the banks of
the river both above and below the town, and the land appears to be
very carefully tilled. The river is the only source of water-supply, and
outside the strip of irrigated land the country is a sandy desert. On
the left bank of the Danga Gol, and about a mile above the present town,
is the site of the old city of Sachu, the limits of which can easily be
traced by the ruined walls still standing. The ground inside the wall
has been ploughed up and cultivated.
We are informed that the direct road to Hami lay through a desert
in which water was scarce, and were advised to turn east and join the
great trunk road between China and Turkistan at Ghainsh^ or Uainshe,
on which rest-houses have been erected where supplies are procurable.
Ghainshe is about 60 miles from Sachu. It is a wretched place, ver^'
small, and in ruins for the most part. Mud forts, now dismantled and
ruinous, were numerous between Sachu and Ghainsh6.
A few hundred yards from the mud wall of Ghainshe we entered the
desert and marched through it on a fairly good road for about 175 miles
to a small village called El-Timar, Wood and grass were only pro-
curable at the rest-houses and at famine prices. Thirty miles more
over a plain covered with coarse grass brought us to the town of HamL
No. XII.— Dko. 1887.] 8 o
748
A JOURNEY ROUND CBI^*ESE TtTRKlSTAN
Hero we found ourselves once more among Europeans, as wo
warmly and hospitably greeted by Mr. Splingaerd, a Belgian, "who held
the post of customs officer under the Chinese Govommont at Sachn, and
had travelled over great part of China in the service of Baron Bichthofen,
and by two young Russian merchants, v?ho scemod to have been having
a bad time of it with tho local oflEeials, as one of them had been spending
the last five months in jail on an apparently frivolous charge.
Hami comprises a Chinese town inside a small but neatly-bnilt mtid
fort. Adjoining it is a large suburb containing the bazaara and numerous
serais and dwelling-houses of Chinese and Tuiigania. We put up in a
Tungani's house in this suburb. Alwut a quarter of a mile to the south-
west is ihe old town, peopled exclusively by Turka unrltr their o^vn
Wang or hereditary governor. The Wang left for l^ekin on the day of
our arrival at Hami, as he is required to present himself there on New
Voar*a Day every ninth year* With tha exception of the Wang's house,
the old town is miserably built, t^evcral officers of the late Amir Yak ub
Beg are in exile here. They of course remumbered Sir D. Forsyth'a
mission, and on hearing that wo were English were very attentive, I
abstained from visiting the principal man amcng them, Muhammad
Khan, formerly Hakin Beg of Kashgar, only because I feared by so duing
I might increase the suspicions of the Chinese, and perhaps hinder thoir
liberation, for which petitions from the principal Mussulman iti habitants
of Ttirkistan had been forwarded to the governor-general at Urumtsi,
There is but little cultivated land in the immediate vicinity of Hami,
and I was informed that the bulk of the land, both arable and pasture,
Ix'longing to the residents, ia at a dietHUCo of several miles wdtbin the
mountains to the north. The town is well supplied with excellent coal,
and also with pine-wood used both as timber anil for fuel. The extensive
eaotonments and official buildings to the west of the town built only a
few years back were dismantled on tho transfer to Urumtsi of the seat
of government. It appears to be customary with the Chinese to destroy
any buildings that are no longer required for the purpose for which
they were provided, in order that the last occupant may make a little
money by selling the materials* They are never transferred for use by
any other department of the government. This procedure is irritating
to the Turks, who have to furnish the timl^^r and much of the labour
employed in constructing the buildings. From Hami our road lay
through grass land, for about 45 miles to the village of Jigda, then ovor
145 miles of desert to Fichan, where is a small fort and a guard of
100 Chinese soldiers. This was the frontier outpost of Kashgaria under
the Amir. Tho country now improved, and we passed through culti-
vated and grass land for the remaining 55 miles to Turfan, where we
put up in a trader's serai in tho centre of the Mabommedan town.
On neaiing Turfan we passed through the ruins of an ancient town,
in which a large tomb with a minaret 2^0 feet high is conspicuous-
AND ALONG THE NORTHERN FRONTIER OF TIBET. 749
The Mahommedan town is about 1^ miles to the west of the Chinese
town, and the distance across it from the eastern to the western gate is
about a mile.
Both the city of Tnrfan and the country in the neighbourhood are
irrigated by karezes or underground canals from springs at the foot of
the hills. This is the case all the way from Pichan, there being no
irrigation from streams.
The Tungani and Chinese element predominates in the population.
I was able to cash Government of India currency notes at Turfan.
The discount charged was heavy, but that Indian paper money should
be negotiable at all in so remote a place shows how widespread is the
confidence of Asiatics in the good faith of the Government of India.
Twenty-eight miles from Turfian is the little town of Toktasun, where
we were hospitably entertained by the chief Beg. From this point we
made an excursion to Urumtsi, about 95 miles distant, passing about
half-way the small town of Dawan Chin with a Tungani population.
The siege and capture of the fort of Dawan Chin and politic release of
the prisoners taken, with the exception of such as were Andijanis, with
a small present of money to each, were incidents in the advance of the
Chinese troops to reoccupy the country nine years ago.
Urumtsi, the headquarters of the Chinese Government of Turkistan,
is situated in a broad valley within the Tian Shan range, watered by a
large stream which flows from the southern side of the mountains. It
consists of a cluster of nine or ten separate small walled towns. The
population is mixed, comprising Manchus, Chinese, Tunganis, and Turks,
and there is a large bazaar stocked with Chinese and Russian wares.
From November to March the climate is very severe, but the city is well
supplied with coal and charcoal of excellent quality. My visit took
place in the middle of December.
Liu Joshwe, the (Jovemor-G^eneral of Turkistan, and the only man
in the province permitted to use a palanquin, was very attentive to m&
during the seven days of my stay in Urumtsi. He made many enquiriea
about India, and seemed especially curious regarding the exact nature
of the relations between the British Government and Afghanistan, and
of the events at Panjdeh in 1885. He seems to be popular with all
classes of the people throughout the province, and enjoys the prestige
of having regained Turkistan for the Chinese in 1878, and governed it
ever since.
Returning to Toktasun, we pushed on without delay to Karashahr,
distant about 145 miles, over a generally barren country, much of the
road running through low hills. There is a good deal of traffic upon
this road, and long strings of camels carrying frozen fish from the
Baghrash Lake for sale in Urumtsi were especially noticeable. We
passed Karashahr without halting, and put up at our old quarters in
Kurla, where a very cordial reception awaited us.
3 0 2
750
A JOURNEY KOUND CHINESE TURKISTAK
Beyond Kui^a tho road still ran through a generally barren country,
though somewhat less forlorn and desolate than that further to the east.
At several of the halting-places we foniid smail patches of cultivation
and a tiny hazaar. Eighty-five mileB from Kurla the large walled
village of Yengi Hissar was reached, and 21 railea further tho small
tO"vm of Bngar, loually famous for its manufacture of rugs. Kiichar, a
town of about 15,000 inhabitants, with extensive suburbs, lies abont
70 miles further west. A solitary Indian Mussulman has settled down
here and acquired some land. He had been unable to communicate
with hiB friends in Ludhiana for several years. 1 undertook to convey
a lettt'r from him to them — a promise which was duly fulfilled.
We had intended to halt at Kuchar for a day or two, but the throng
of people which collected immediately on our arrival, drawn by
DalgleisVs reputation as a physician, was so embarrassing that we
were obliged to make our escape by dipping away the next moming
before daylight. A number of ]>ersons suffering from various ailmenta
nevertheless pursued us on horseback to the next stage. The only place
of any importance between Kuchar and Aksn is the small town of Bai,
famous for the excellence of its dairy produce.
Very large burial-grounds are passed through when drawing near to
Aksu from the east. The city is invisible until closely approached, aa
it lies just beneath a very high bank. The Chinese city is about
6^ miles from tho old Mahommedan town, in which we were provided
with most comfortable lodgings. Indian currency notes wore hero
easily disposed of at a discount of about 0 per cent. The road from
Aksu to Yarkand via the small town and fort of Maralbashi runs for the
most part through jungle and desert. Along the road for a considerable
distance the Chinese have constructed a large embankment, to prevent
tho country being submerged when the river is in flood.
Since leaving Eurla we had avoided the huge comfortless Chinese
rest-housep, and put up in private houses w^henever it was possible to do
so. Oui* reception w^as always friendly and hospitable on the part of
the Dolan shepherds in the a>untry round Maralbashi, no less than of
the Turks of the towns and larger villages.
I bad now completed the circuit of Chinese Turkistan, and, Kashgar
excepted^ had visited almost everj^ important place in it.
The chief characteristic of the conntry is its extreme poverty. It
may indeed be described as a huge desert fringed by a few small patchea
of cultivation* The only really good strip of country of considenible
size is the western portion, comprising Kargalik, Yarkanil,and Kashgar.
To the north a succession of very small oases extends along tho foot of
the Tian Shan Mountains, the stretches of intervening desert becoming
larger as tho traveller goes further to the east. The eastern extremity
of the province is desert pure and simple, and bo is the eoTithern ex-
tremity as far west as Kiria, with the exception of the small oases of
AND ALONG THE NORTHERN FRONTIER OF TIBET. 761
Charchand and Chaklik. The central portion is chiefly desert, except
that pasture of a coarse and inferior description is found in the neigh-
bourhood of the Tarim river and of parts of the Lob Nor lake system.
There are probably many districts in India in charge of a single collector
and magistrate, which are richer and better worth having than the
whole of this huge province, extending over not much less than
20 degrees of longitude and 6 degrees of latitude.
Sanguine expectations have from time to time been entertained of
the development of a large trade with Turkistan, but judging from the
poverty of the country, the sparseness of the population, and the absence
of any manufacturing industries except on the most petty scale, it
appears to me impossible that such anticipations can ever be realised.
The volume of trade, either with India or Bussia, must, I am disposed
to think, always remain insignificant.
Any discussion of our political relations with Turkistan would be
out of place here. I may, however, without impropriety say that so far
as my personal experience goes, the most friendly feeling appears to
exist towards England on the part both of the subject Mahommedan
population and of the officials of the Chinese Government. At present
the Chinese seem to be adopting a conciliatory policy towards the
Mussulmans, due perhaps to a consciousness that their position in
Turkistan is not altogether secure. Occasional instances of ill-treat-
ment of individuals occur, but, on the whole, so far as my observation
extended, their rule is not a harsh one. The tortures and detestable
cruelties practised on criminals and accused persons, as described by
travellers in China Proper, are almost unknown in Turkistan, except
that the punishment of the cage is sometimes resorted to and severe
beatings are often iDflicted. Complete religious toleration is maintained.
Crime is repressed, and life and property are in ordinary times as safe
in Turkistan as in British India. The prestige of the Chinese stands
very high, and they are looked up to much as Englishmen used to be in
India some years ago. Among the people generally, more confidence
seems to be felt in the Chinese than in the Mussulman officials.
The most glaring evil in the administration is the prevalence of
official corruption, which is intensified by the uncertain tenure of office
and the frequent transfers of the superior functionaries, but as a whole,
I do not think the Chinese regime in Turkistan compares unfavourably
with other Asiatic governments, such, e.g. as those of many Native
States in India. In spite of their absurd self-conceit and other peculi-
arities, the Chinese appeared to me to be by no means altogether wanting
in the better characteristics of a ruling class, and to be quite the
superiors of the Turks in decision, moderation, intelligence, and the
other qualities which fit men for positions of authority.
The Chinese have no military strength in Turkistan that could for a
moment resist the advance of European troops. To an unprofessional
752
A JOtlRNET ROUND CHINESE TUEKISTAN, ETC.
eye tbero seemed to be good raw material among the soldiery, but the
men are undisciplined and poorly armed, wliQe tlie officers are utterly
inefficient and often addicted to opium,
China is an imaggressive and not unfriendly neighbour, and our
good wishes may therefore go with her efforts to maintain and consolidate
her authority.
I left Yfirkand on the 7th March, 1887, and travelled by Kargalik
and Kugiar to Loh, crossing the Yengi Dawan or New Piiss on the 27th
March and the Karakoram Pass on the 5th Aprih The cold was severe,
and oiuch snow lay on the ground to the south of the Karakoram in
Chai Josh Jilga and as fiir as Tepchand. I returned by ttie Kashmir
route through Srinagar tu KawalpiDdi, and reached Siaila on the 27th
May hifit, lutving exceeded my leave of absence by one day.
I am indebted to the kindness uf Colonel Haig, e,e., Deputy Surveyor-
General of India, in charge of the Trigonometrical Surveys, for the map
on the scale of eight miles to an inch which accompanies this paper. It
has been constructed from a route-sketch, with explanatory notes kept
up at ray requejit by Mr. Biilgb*ish. Colonel Haig informs me that the
latitudes deduced from Mr. Dalgloish^s observations made with a pocket
sextant are very accorilant, and that the sketch and notes form a valuable
record of the country traver.sed. I have placed the original sketch and
notes at the dispofial of the Royal Geographical Society, which is thus in
a position to judge of the care and accuracy with which this tedious task
has been performed, and all 1 need say on the subject is that whatever
credit is due for the maiiiteiiance of the record belongs entirely and
solely to Mr. Dalgleisli.
Ap^irt from this, the accomplishment of the trip without any serious
hitch is mainly due to the assistance 1 received from this staunch
comrade. His knowledge of the Turki and Persian languages and skill
in the management of a caravan and in dealing with Asiatics were
invaluable. That the jouraey was completed without the loss of a
single baggage pony, and that the caravan existed for close upon four
months without any renewal of supplies, I attribute to his constant
vigilance and guud arrangements.
The stores with which wc left Chaklik on the 2*Jth April, 1886, con-
sisted of— 7250 lb. of corn, 750 lb. of dried lucerne grass, 1320 lb. of
wheat flour, <j75 lb. of rice, 170 lb. of satu, 106 lb. of biscuits, 60 lb. of
ghee, a large bag of tea; and nothing more was obtained until the
caravan reached Harmngan Namaga on the 1st September following,
with the exception of some butter, brick tea, and sheep, which I eent
to Xaichi from Golmo, and which reached Dalgleish on the 16th of
AugliBt.
•^* The dJBonasioii oa tho foregoing paper will appear in tlie Jatnmry No. of the
' Proceedings/
•( 753 )
Silva Porto's Journey from BHie (Bie) to tlie BaJciila Country*
Map, p. 790.
Antonio Francisco Ferreira da Silva Porto occupies a foremost place amongst
those enterprising Portuguese traders, who, long before the days of Livingstone,
travelled at the head of their caravans into the unexplored repons of Africa. He
is almost the only one whose diaries (in part) have been published, so as to enable us
to utilise them for the improvement of African jreography. In 1852-3 Senhor Silva
Porto paid one of his frequent visits to the Barotse coimtry on the Liambai, and
'despatched thence his servant Chacahanga to the east coast. Mr. M'Queen, who
published an abstract of this journey in the Journal of the Boyal Grcographical
«Society (vol. xxx. 1860, pp. 136-154), assumed that Silva Porto himself had crossed
the continent "a contra costa,** an error which down to the present day has been
perpetuated in books and maps.t Dr. Livingstone, who met Silva Porto at Linyanti
in 1853, and subsequently in the Barotse country, contemptuously refers to him as
a 8lave-dealer,J a term of reproach which we feel sure he never deserved. The
American missionaries and Mr. Arnott give quite a different account of the man,
and the former more especially acknowledge their indebtedness to him.§
The diary, of which we now propose to present an abstract, relates a journey
from Bie (Bihe) to the country of the Bakuba beyond the Lulua, recently explored
by Dr. Pogge, Lieut. Wissmann, and Dr. L. Wolf. Silva Porto's route led for the
most part through regions not hitherto delineated upon our maps. He crossed,
however, in several instances the routes of other explorers, and this enabled us to
lay down his route in a fairly satisfactory manner. All those statements in the
diary capable of being transferred to a map have found a place upon the sketch
which accompanies this article. Silva Porto gives the direction and duration of each
day's march, and we thus learn that he spent 3091 hours of actual travel upon the
journey from Belmonte to the Lulua. As the distance between these places as
measured on our sketch amounts to 616 geographical miles, he travelled at the rate
of two miles an hour. This rate, however, appears not to have been uniform, as the
following tabular statement shows : —
Hoars' march.
Distance,
miles.
Rat« per hoar.
ynil<N^
Belmonte to the Kuanza (Tuvumuka) . .
Knanza to Euaneo source
Kuango to Sba Mokunda's
8ha Mokanda's to Kisengo's
Kisenge's to Malta Mosefo
M. Mo8efo*B to Kimbundo's
Kimbundo's to the Easai
Kasai to Masasuri river
Masasuri to Lulua
34i
61
45
20
58
29
19
28
15
64
115
120
43
114
50
31
55
24
1-9
1-7
2-7
21
20
1-7
1-6
20
1*6
Total
309i
616
2-0
* From the * Boletim * of the Lisbon Geographical Society, 1886-7.
t Porto's original diary, and that of his servant, will be found in the * Annaes do
Conselho Ultramarino,' L, 1854-8, pp. 278 et $eq.
X 'Missionary Travels,' p. 218.
§ 'Missionary Herald,' Boston, 1885, p. 26.
764 SILVA POETO'S JOURNEY FROM BIHE (BIE) TO THE BAKOBA COtTNTBY.
The distances are taken from the acoompanyiiig sketch map. Tlio excessive rntO'
between the Kimiigo source (laid down according to Lieut* IvenB) and Sha
ilokanda's (visited by Po^^), api^ears to point to an error in the iiositiotiB of theses
places.
We now turn to the '' Diary*" Silva Porto left Benguek on November Ist, ISTy^
and on the 26th of the same month reached his residence Belraonte, in Bihe, On the
road he met several caravans carrying wax, ivory, and provisions to the coast. By
the end of February 1880, bis preparations for a tratliug trip into the interior had
been completed, and on March l»t he startetl his caravan along the direct road^
whilst he himself first paid a visit to Kilcmo, the chief of Bihts at Koi»ongo. At^
Bonvisia, the Tesidence of Lucas Josd Coimbm, he rejnineti hi« ]>eople, and trftvelllng
through a fertile chiy country, occ^isioDally rising into bilU and uwded, he arrived
at Tuvuinnka, a Kiboko village on the Kuanza, on March 14th. On the following
day he and his |>aity were ferried over. Tlie country, as far aa Kindumba, tbo
village of Kaniboto, a Kiboko chief, is described as being level and fertile, but tlience^
ss far as the Euango and beyond, it ia hilly and densely wooded. The soil through-
out is clay.
The Kiboko or Kashoko, who extend from near tlie Knanza far to the north-
eastward, have adopted many of tlie habits of the Balunrln. Their villaf^ea are built
in the same style, with ji lofty '*jango" or public hall in the centre. Sheep, goats^
pigs, and pigeons are bred. The word of salutixtion is ** tambuko " in the souths
and *' bondy *' (evidently a corruption of '* bom dia '') in the north. The hair is wornr
in innnmerable tresses from 8 to 16 inches long. No human beings are sacrificed on
the death of a chief. The followers of the deceased chief either return to their
relatives or build themselvca a new village. The new chief also builds a new-
village, and if he enjoys the respect of his sub-chiefs, they each present liim with
a man or a woman to people it. The sites of abandoned villages soon become
covered with adeuse growth of buish.
From Kanyika^s* village it is one hours march to Kavrewe's(Canb^u*rs) village-
at the source of the Kuango.f A short march of three hours in a north-easterly
direction brings the traveller thence to the Kajiabi (K:vsai), the rrxid plunging
almost immediately down a steep descent. The Kasai, at this s|K)t, has day banks
and a Jsandy bed, and is only 40 jards wide. It is said to rise in Kitangna*s country^
Still continuing tlirough a line hilly region, with dense woods yielding rosin, rubber,
copnb nnd timber along the rivers, Silva Porto passed through the villages of
Matiamvo and of Ids son Muata Gunda, and reached the Upi>er Chiumbue
(Chihdmbo), here about forty yards wide, and llowing along the bottom of a ravine
at least 200 feet in dejith. After leaving the villages uf the Kiboko chiefs Sha
Ndumba and Sha Mazembe, a level country quite void of villages was entered upon.
The soil was clay and sand. The river banks were densely wooded. The cami>3
hero were visitetl by Balunda rnd Kiboko, who ufiVred arms, slaves, rubber, wax^
domestic animals, and provisiouF, in excbiinge for powder and European manu-
tiictures,
FiLssing throngh the Balunda villages of Mnala Ehunda and Sha Mokanda, the
caravan, on April 23rd, arrived at the rejiidence of the powerful Kiboko chief
Kisen;:e e ]»a Temjx), a relative of the Ndumba Temj)u visited by Capello and Iveus,
and a tnbiilary of the Muatynnvua. He was a man of about twenty-four, tali ,ind
slender, and of pleasant countenance. He wore his hair in tresses, to which were
■
• Canheeie is evidently a misprint for Canhica.
t Lieut. Iven»(vol. I p. l&O) mentions a Cfiiien rivtdet rising in Kaniknna the source-
of the Kasai. The Ctideu of his map eurreaponds to Siiva Porto's Monyango.
SUVA PORTO'S JOURNEY FROM BIHE (Bit) TO THE BAKDBA CODKTRV, 755
attached brass oniaments made by native artists, uliUst plumes of the r©l tail-
Icatliers of tlse grey parrot siirnKumlcd the top of liis lie^id, Kiseuge wore dotben
of the finest *' fajiei\4a" and was seiiteJ upon a chair placed within a screen made of
caHco and cx)loured pocket-bandkercliiefs. Having hia eldera upon one sidej and
his Mukuaniada or household on the other, ho presented t^uile an impoaing
appeamuce.
Betwetn Kibumlo (Kimhundo?) and tli© Muata Molundo, no villages were met
with. On the Sunil>o the author observed a tree growing to a hei^^ht of 100 feet,
and yielding an aromaiic rosin (wmmict/b), as also seeds from which the natives
obtain oil, wLick they use medicinally.
From Mnata Shiamba's, on the Chiuinhiic\ to the Lniisliima, the right hank of
which was followed by the author during thirtetn marchts, as far as ita confluence
with the Kasai, is a marcli of six hours.
The Muata Mosefo Matiamvo, already known to us tlirough Schiitt, received his
visitor seated uix>n a ehiiir, and Bup|iorling himself upon two men who knelt
on either side. He wore the lulatto or bracelet bestowed by the Muat' yanvnafitr
faithful service. This emblem of j-iower is made of brass and copper wire interwoven
with the sinews of a human being sacrificed on s<;mc specially solemn occasion. It
is cohered with the skin of a kiseina (an antelope?), and attached to it are various
charms. If the holder of this emblem loses the favour of his feudal lord, a
messenger^ beating a similar bracelet, but of smaller Hizc,and a mukucde (two-edge<l
knife), is despatched to him, and the disgraced chief quietly submits to decapitation,
his brothers and wives generally electing the same fate.
Kimbnndo,* the chief of the Maio or Amamaio, on ceremonial occaBlone, wears a
pink^eoloured Maklla loin-cloth reaching down to the knees, and covered with
fihellaj an up|er garment of green cloth, a necklace trimmed with shells, and a
helmet-shaped head-dres*, the front of which k also adorned with shells. The Mab
are of the isam© race as the Baluba. They shave jKirt of the head» file the teeth, and
lattoo as fnncy directs them. The dead arc buried with a supply of food and drink,
Buflicient to last a month, for they are supposed to have a long journey before them,
from which they may after a time return.
The country to the north of Kimbundo*s, tis far as the Lulu a, is ruled by Kaluha
chiefs, near whose villages are groves of plantains and bananas. Coffee grows wild
in the forest-clad ravines through which the Katungakale and Lombele take their
course to the Luashima* llie Baluba or Bashilanga w^elcome strangers to their
country. They are split up into a large -number of small tribes. I'hey file the
teeth, tattoo, and either shave part of the head or wear tresses like the Kiboko. A
bone, a ring, or other ornament is usually worn in the nose. Hem|>-smoking and
the drinking of palm-wine are carried to excess, and lead up to a state of frenzy,
during which thrso afflicted run into tlie forest, and kill the first man they meet.
The Baluba look upon the Moyo (a tributary of the Lulua) as the cradle of their
race, and swear by it. The Moyo ceremony is a nocturnal orgie, the participators in
which meet around a wooden post in the middle of the village, to which their arms
are susix^nded, and near which a fire Is kindled by the Kimul>anda. After some
chanting, in the course of which the word "Moyo" occurs frequently, a goat is
sacrificed, its blood being spill; upon the ground. Eating and drinking then go on
until the morning when the fire is put out, and the ashes are thrown into the river.
* Schiitt (p. 150X who visited this chief, tells ua that he U also known aa Muene
Kihmta. Aooorduig to Capt&ui Carvalho, Kiluata has since been succeeded by his
brother Karauanga.
75G SILVA PORTO'S JOURNEY IFROH BIRE (BIQ TO THE BAKUBA COUNTRY.
Tkb ceremony is practised by all the Baluba, as also hy tlio Maio and Bakuba, and
litfuce the territory inhabited by these tribts ia known to the Bilienos as *' Moyo.'*
Buyaniba*ii village, at the ferry />ver the KasEii, wcupies a higli bluff at the
conflucQCC of that river witli the Luashlma. The Kasai is about 1100 yards wide,
but its cijurjie is obstructed by rocks j the banks arc wooJed, Crossing this river in
smnll iKiata, the curavjin followed it as far as Batamissa-s village, and then struck
itdaml^ reaching the Lulim in eight rri arches. The country traversed rises
occasionally into bills, and there are forests of big trees. Mafuka (Shainafoko) who
resided on the Kaboloba when Foggc visited the country, occnf^ied a villnge near
the Masasuri, and in the »amo district were the villages of bis fathtT Kihula^ of his
brother Kitenipo (Mueneputo)^ and of Katentk', Joaiinea Bezerra Pinto Coelho was
found established on the Hasosuri as a trader. The Maboude palm wa^ one of the
must couspicuons trees seen near these and other vdlages. It yields the fibre from
which mabelja cloth ia omde, and palm-wiae in the eighth year of its growth. In
the ninth, year it diea.
The Lulna, where crossed, was only 120 yards wide, with wooded banks. Kapau,
the village of Bnia Kalunga, was only fuunded in 1877, and is iuliabited by Tukete
and a few Bakuba. Three liouri* beyond it the author reached Kapungo, the
** Kisiilla ** or market, of Lokengo, the king of the Ikkuha, which has about 3000
inhabitants.
The Baknba say that they came from the country to the north of the lower Zaire.
and Lokengo claims to be related to the king of Congo, They break out two upper
front teeth, shave the top of the head^ and wear a akuU-cap made of straw*
Tattooing is practised, the favourite pattern ap|>earing to be Uvo continuous stripes,
carried from the insteps to the wrists. They have no fire-arms ; tlie Tukete on the
Luliia are their subjects. In concluding a bargain ft curious custom, called
iSbikavnndiindo, is observed. An offer having been made and nccepted, the vendor
plucks a leaf, presents it to the intending purchaser^ who takes bold <jf it, and then
cuts it asunder, when the two pieces are thrown bebiud. If this mode of confirming
a bargain is neglected, the vendor can claim double the value of the ivory or other
merchandise lie intendcil to sell.
Senhor Silva Porto ftirnislies a few notes on tribes which he did not visit. The
Ti\|ieude live under sniall hereditary chieftains; they file the teeth, shave the head,
and are armed with guns, bows and poisoned arrows, mukuale (two-edged knives),
and sj)ear8. They hunt and snare game. The Tubinsbe and Kausuida (Kanyanda?)
to the east, beyotid the Kasai, are related to be cannibals. They shave the head,
file the teeth, and tattoo rings round the eyes, introducing a mixture of charcoal and
vegetable juice into the wounds. They make use of |X)isoned arrows. To the south
of them hve the Malujndo, thus called after their lar^ze houses. They also file the
teeth.
Further south still are met the Kizuata-shito,* who file the teeth like their
neighbours, but are more especially remarkable for the siognlar custom of pulling
their skin nntil it covers their persona.
Senhor Silva Porto's " Lualaba ** is evidently the Sankuni, and he states that it is
known to the natives dwelling there as Mozamgoma or Lufamjimbo ("bush-bird"),
Shanana is a nickname aiip^i^*^ ^^ ^^ic tribes living to the north of the Lulua,
The diary of the return journey is not given. We look forward with interest to
the publication of further * Diaries ' kept with so much care by this far- travel led
trader, and more esi>ecially to an account by him of the Kubango river, which iScrpo
Pinto tells us he descended in a boat to Liny an ii.
* 8chutt (' Beisen,' p. 139) was told that the Quata-sbito are dwarfs.
( 757 )
GEOGRAPHICAL KOTES.
The Saciety's Frizes for the ImprovemeBt of Oeographical Education
ia Elementary Schools, — With tho view of eBOOuragiiig the Btudy of
geography by the tefichera, and thus improviDg tho methods of teaching
the Biibject in Public Elementarj^ Sehoijls, tho Council of the Society,
ia oomplotion .of the scheme announced last year,* offered a seriea of
prizes to ho competed for annually by the students in the training
colleges of England aiid WalifH and other caiididatea for teachers'
certificates. The offer baa now been accepted by the Education Depart-
ment, and will be immediately earriod into effect* The prizes will be
first awarded after the next Cliristinas examination for cortiticatos
(1887)^ and will consist of:- — An exhibition of the Viilue of 157*, and
four <4her prizes consisting of books or maps, to male stii dents of the
lii'st (or second) year; and the same, i.e. 151. and four other prizes, to
female candidates of the second year, who pass the best examination in
geography.
The proposed AustraHau Antarctic ExpeditioE. — Our Council, at its
last meeting, decided on supporting the application of the Victorian tp
the Home Government for a grant of money in aid of their proposed
reconnaissance expedition to the Antarctic Begions. A letter expressing
the sympathy of the Society with tho objecta of the proposed expedition
Las betfU sent to Sir Graham Berry » Agent-General for Victoria, and the
following letter to the Secretary of State for tho Colonies*
I6th Novariher, 1887.
Sib,— I have the honour of bringing to yonr notice that the Council of the
Royal Geograpliical Society have been recently informed by the Agent-General of
the colony of VictoriA that an application has been made to Her Mnjeaty's Govern-
ment from that Colony for a grant of 5000/. in aid of an expedition which it is
contemplated to send out from Melbourne for the exploration of the Antarctic Ocean.
The Council of our Society, having given due consideration to the character of the
information that mi;;ht he acquired throUi;;h auch an exploration, unanimously
recognised its probahly great value and inii>ortance fri^m many &cleiiti6c points of
view, apart from any possible economical utility it might have, and they hate
requested me to convey to you a respectful representation of their hope that Her
Majesty's Government may aee fit to make the proposed grautj to be applied,
together with a like sum to be contributed by the Colony, for the purposes of uuch
an expedition.
The Comicil, 1 am to add, would see with much satisfaction the further develop-
ment in the Australian Colonies of the spirit which has already led to much very
valuable Bcientific research, directed entirely by the cultivators of science in those
Colonies, and they entertain the belief that assistance such as that now asked for
will greatly contribute to the development of such a spirit, and give valuable and need-
ful support to the extension of local independent effort which is so much to be desired.
I have, &c.,
Rt.'Hon. Sir Henry T. Holland, o.c.k.o., R. Stsachey,
Secretary of State for the Colonies. President Jl,G.S*
* *FroeeediDgi B.G*8^' 1886, p. 528,
758
GEOGRJIPHICAL NOTES.
Ascent of a Peak in the Owen Stanley Eange, New Ouinea. — TLe
Rev. W. G- Lawes (Port Moresby) in for ids ub that >lr. Ciithbertson, the
leader of tho expedition despatched by the Victoria Branch of the
Geographical Societ}' of Australasia, hue succeeded in reaehing the
summit of Mount Obree, one of the culminating peaks of the Owen
Stanley liangc. lie started from Kappa Kappa ^ a place on the eoaet
about 30 milea south-east of Port Moresby^ making up his cai-avan at
Mr. Hunter's station a few miles inland, where he engaged 100 native
carriers^ and commenced his journey inland on the 2nd of August The
line of march lay through a very hilly country, and for a long distanoo
up a mountiiin stream, over slippery boulders. The summit of Mount
(Jbrec was reached on the 30ih of Augnst, tiud was found to be SOOQ
feet abovo sea-level ; a result which seeniH to ntitd ocmlirmatinn as it
diflers much from that obtained by careful angular measurements by the
JRattle^naJze expedition, viz. 10,246 feet. The almost contiuual rain and
he^vy clouds interfered with the view from the summit^ but Mount
Owen Stanley was distinctly seen in the early morning looming abovo
them. — Mr. Cuthbertsun is an experienced surveyor, and his detailed
observations and map will be looked forward to with considerable
interest. His altitudes w^ero taken by a boiling-point ajiparatus
belonging to our Society, which was lent to him by Mr. Lawes,
Ho states that he passed on h\s ascent the point reached tiy Messrs.
Hunter and Uartmaun * and found it to ho only 2500 feet above
the sea. A small botanical collection w^as made by Mr. Bayer, the
naturalist of tho expedition. Pines were found at from GOOO to 8000
feet, and some beautiful rhododendrons at or near the summit.
Population of New Zealand, — ^Aecording to the newly4ssueJ report
on the census of New Zealand, taken March 28th, 1886, the population,
exclusive of Maoris, was 578,482, This was an increase of 88^549, or at
the rate of 18 ■ 07 per cent, upon the number at the previous censua of
1881. The rate of increase was considerably less than during either of
tho intervals between the previous census periods since 1871. Of the
increase between 1881 and 188t>, t>7,205 consisted of the natural
increase by excess of births over deaths. The death-rate in 1885 was
only 10' 61 per thousand. The population given above included 4527
Chinese, only 15 of whom w^ere women. The total Maori population
was 41,1IG1>, and 2254 half-castes living as members of Maori tribes.
Northern Interiar of British Columbia,— Dr. G. M* Dawson sends to
'Science' a detailed account of his recent work in British Columbia.
Leaving Yictoria early in May, the expiedition reached Fort Wrangel,
from which point they proceeded up the Stikine river to Cassian. Mr.
W. W. Ogilvie made an instrumental survey of tho country from the
sea-coast by way of the Lewis river, up the Yukon to the 14lst meridian,
• * Proceed inga/ ante, p. G2L
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 769
and his measurements will serve as the basis for further work in the
district. The object t)f Dr. Dawson's researches was a thorough explora-
tion of the tributaries of the Upper Yukon. The party proceeded up the
Stikine river as far as Dease Lake. As soon as the ice broke up, June 18th,
they left the lake, and went down Dease river into the fork of the Dease
and Liard rivers. Here a party left to descend and survey the Liard and
Mackenzie rivers. Dr. Dawson went up the Liard and Francis rivers to
Francis Lake, which drains into the Liard and not into the Pelly river.
Thence Dr. Dawson proceeded down the Pelly river to its junction with
the Lewis river, which was ascended and a geological survey of the
country made. Mr. Ogilvie, separating from the rest of the party, con-
tinued down the Yukon river. He intended wintering on that river,
and resuming his work in the spring, continuing it over to the
Mackenzie river. He will return next autumn to Winnipeg by way of
that stream and the Hudson's Bay route to Carlton on the Saskatchewan.
Mr. M*Connell will probably winter at Fort Simpson, on the Mackenzie
river, and continue his explorations from that point next summer.
Island of Salpan (Marianne Oroup). — A recent visit paid to this little
island by M. A. Marche, the French traveller, gives us some new
information respecting it. M. Marche is engaged in exploring the whole
archipelago, and has spent two months in Saipan. The maps of the
island are by no means correct. M. Marcho, after a thorough explora-
tion, "was unable to discover any trace of a volcano or volcanic rocks,
although a volcano active or extinct has been reported to exist in the
island. Tapochao, the highest peak, was formerly supposed to have an
elevation of 2000 feet, but the traveller's two barometers show its height
to bo 1345 feet. The other hills do not exceed from 600 to 700 feet in
height. The northern point of the island terminates in a mountain
having the appearance of the cliffs at Dieppe, and forming a long narrow
plateau. There is very little fresh water in the island ; and absolutely
none on the west coast, where the inhabitants drink the brackish water
of the wells. The two fresh-water lakes spoken of by other travellers
are nothing but ponds, the water of which is quite unfit to drink.
The Emin Pasha Belief Expedition. — The unfavourable rumours
regarding the expedition sent to the relief of Emin Pasha which have
lately found their way into the papers are not confirmed from Brussels.
According to the ' Mouvement Geographique,' no news had been received
from Stanley, on his march from the Aruwimi to the Albert Nyanza,
since the 8th July, when he communicated with Major Barttelot by a
Zanzibari messenger, saying that all was well. The steamer Stanley,
which had accompanied the expedition up the Congo and returned again,
left L6opoldville on July 4th with reserves of goods and a reinforcement
of 125 men, and reached the camp of Yambuya, on the Aruwimi, in the
first week of August. There everything was found in a most satisfactory
7«0
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
fitate; the native population sbowed an excellent dispaBition towards
tbo Europeans, and not an Arab had been seen anywhere near. Tippu
Tib, however, bad failed to koep his promise of furnishing 600 poi-tera
to carry the loads left behind by the expedition, and Major Barttelot
was send in <2: to Stanley Falls to inquire about tbis.
Dr. KrauBe in Upper 0uiiiea.— Dr. G. A. KrauKt* writes to us on the
28tb September last from Accra (Gold Coast)» where he arrived on the
23rd Septeralier, He h-ft Salaga, having rested for mme weeks aft^r hi.s
extensive travels * in the north, on the 1st of June. His route lay in an
easterly direction, and after cros^sing the large river Li and a moan tain
range of moderate height, ho arrived at Soguede on the 15th of the same
mouth. This town is inhabited exclusively by the Mohammedans of
the tril>e of the Tembia or KotoltoVi. He states that if he could have
foreseen the toils and suiferings which he was destined to endnre on the
march from Sognede to the Slave Coast, he would have continued his
journey eastwards to the Niger. However, he turned his steps to the
south, and travelled by way of Beleta or Angninga, the centre of the
salt trade in those regions, and Gbe^hi or Pekji to Atakpame. He had
to cross the Mono twice in boats (the river is called ^I'jele further north),
and to wade through its western tributary, the Angai, three tinies^ In
Beleta, as in Gbeshi, which lies about four days' march from Agbonie,
op]x>sitiou was id ado to the tnivellcr's further progress. On two occasions
he BUCC^eL'dt'd by nocturnal iigbts in pushing forward, liut was eom-
pelled to leave his collections and Imggage behind in Beleta. The latter
town is inhabited by the Kimbulu, Gbeshi by tho Koshi tribes of the
Ewe, and Atakpi*me by the An ago s of the Joruba. From Atnkpamo a
mfikTch of four days brought the traveller t*> Togodo, on the west bank of
the Mono, which at ibis pjint commences to bo navigable. On the way
ho had passed the town of Mono, where a greater river, the Amu-Tsu (?),
had to bo crossed. ^Vfttr a boat-journey of two days he reached the
coast at Pla (Great Popo) on the 25th August. Without delay he
marched along tho coast toBagida, and thence to Accra, ten days dista^nt.
He intended to despatch two men to recover, if possible, his lost ool-
lectiona, &c. Tbo latter includo from 600 to 800 idants, and seeds of
numerooa cultivatedjilants, a small number of beetles, bntterflies, and
other insects, and some remains of pre-historie settlements l>etween Mosi
and Timbuktu. Since leaving Salaga he had suffered from thirteen
slight fever attacks, for which the fever-plant found by him in the
country of tho Gunaisi proved a snre remedy. Dr. Krause in liis letter
stiites that he is absolutely withont means, even to pay his passage back
to Europe.
An Adventurous Journey in the Western Sahara. — The Geographical
Society of Paris has received a letter from M, Bonis, giving particulaiB
^* * Pnioeedings aQ.8./ 1887, p, 511.
[ GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES. 761
of a remarkable journey made by him through previonsly unexplored
parts of the Westom Sahara. The traveller, in the disguise of a
Mussulman, landed from a Canary Island fishing-boat on the coast at a
point between Cape Bojador and the Rio de Oro. The first Moors ho
encountered suspected him and made him prisoner. After being kept
in chains for a long penod, he managed by persevering in his role to
save his life, and after being tried several times he was allowed his
liberty and admitted as a '* brother " into the tribe, which proved to be
a section of the terrible Ulad Delim, the robbers of the Western Sahara.
For five months in company with these Bohemians of the desert he
wandered over unexplored steppes, continually on the march. In their
company he reached the limit of the desert of Uarau and Djuf, the great
depression of the Sahara. His compass and barometer having been
returned to him, he was able to make some interesting observations.
Then turning to the north, he passed near the sebka of Zemmur, of
which he determined the exact position ; Panet placed it far too much
to the north. He surveyed also the course of the Saguiat-el-Hamra,
which had not previously been ascended. At the end of March he was
in Tenduf, the great slave-market of North Sahara. Since 1880 (time
of Dr. Lenz's visit) this oasis, he states, has greatly increased in size
Returning in the direction of Cape Juby, he crossed the fertile and little
known plains of the Ketaua and the Tekna. Between Tarfaya and Uad
Nun the monotonous surface of the Sahara changes its aspect, and becomes
rugged and uneven, with valleys and rocky hills. These are the beds
of former rivers destroyed by upheavals, and which must at one time
have fertilised these now desolate regions. The chief of Uad Nun, on
the recommendation of the Moors, accorded M. Douls warm hospitality.
He took final leave of the nomads at Glimin ; they went south along
the steppes, while he proceeded north along the Atlas range. Coming
from the south almost without clothing, and with the appearance of a
nomad, he managed to pass through the country of the Berbers of Sus
without attracting attention. Crossing the Atlas he reached the city of
Morocco, and sought, as suggested by the chief of Uad Nun, an inter-
view with Abidin, the brother of the latter, who, however, was sus-
picions of the traveller, and communicated with the Sultan. He, furious
at the idea of a European having got into his country from the south,
ordered M. Douls to be put in chains and thrown into a dungeon. By a
happy coincidence, on the evening of his arrival, the English Embassy
under Sir Kirby Green also reached the town. Upon the representations
of the latter M. Douls was released, otherwise his position would have
been a serious one. From this remarkable journey through country
absolutely free from all contact with Europeans, the traveller has
brought back a wealth of information, important alike to geography
and ethnography.
762
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
The G ulf- Stream.— Tn 1886 M. J. Thoulet mftde a series of obser-
vations on the Gnlf-etrcain, oii tlie frigate Clorinde^ from France to
NewfoiiTullsmd and back. On tlie basin of tbese, combined with the
researches of BIr. Buchanan on board the CJialienger, he prepared a
scries of scctioua, longitmiinal and triinsverse, of tho stream ; and th«
results of his work, some of them rather novel, have just been presented
to the Paris Academy of Sciences by M. Bonquet de la Grye. His
i>]>servati<in8 were mainly with refcrenco to the two jo^rcat conditions of
tcmperatnre and t^alinity, by means of which a sort of isographic plan^
of tho ocean ci»nld bo preparcMl, showing its currents gliding down the
slope of ono density to another. Tho Gulf -stream, M. Thonlct tells us,
IB like a river : its cetitre-line, sloping all along its length, has a steeper
slope near its source than at its emboucliure. A valley, with relatively
abmpt slope, separates it on the left bank from the United Statea
current coming from Newfoundland^ and moving southwards. Its right 4
flank, with a softer elope, turned oldiqtiely towards the oc^an, presents
a much more cons id era! do breadth, and thus is explained the con-
veyance of floating wood from America towards the north-west of
Europe. The great St. Lawrence cnrrtiit, passing into the Atlantio ■
between the little Island of St. Paul and Cape Bxet.T island, colKde«f
with tho Gulf-stream» lessens its speed, and leaves as a sort of sub-
marine delta, tho banks extending along the United States, to the Great
Bank of NcwfLmndland. The eastern Polar current, coming from Baffin's '
Bay, skirts Newfound hitid, and ends by striking the Gulf-stroam at
right angles. Contrary to what would be expected, its waters, though
colder, are a little lighter, according to Mr. Thoulet, so that, instead of
passing nnderncath the hotter waters of the Gulf-stream, it mixes with
them, almost entirely arresting their speed. This mixture of waters is
promoted by the melting and capsizing icebergs. After meeting with
the eastern Polar current, according to M. Thoulet, the Gulf-stream no
longer exists, so to speak. Its cooled waters arc spread out, although
they retain a general north-easterly direction. The Gnlf-stream is then,
M. Thoulet concludes, in the best condition to moderate the climate of
Western Europe, but it has no longer any individuality ; it has beoome
a simple derivative without depth, and may bo compared to a powerful
river which is lost in the marshes. We may point out that M, Thou let's
views do not essentially differ from those of Mr. Findlay, tho latter going
even further than the former, arguing that tho CTulf-stream actually
ceased in the ncighbjurhoodof Newfoundland, and that tho mild climate
of Western Europe was duo entirely to other causes. Mr. Findlay's I
paper, * Proe, B.G.S.,' vol. xiii. p. 102, with the interesting discussion
which followed, is well worth studying. This is essentially the con-
clusion come to as a result of the Challenger investigations, though it
will probably take a generation or two to eradicate the old erroneous
notions of text-books and popular treatises.
fc_
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES.
763
The Climates of the Olobe.— General de Tillo has presented to the Paria
Academy of Scieoces an account of his recent researches on the distribution of
atmospheric temperature and pressure on the surface of the globe. Among other
conclusions which he reaches are these : The northern hemisphere contains 14 per
cent, of cold regions, 35 per cent, of temperate regions, and 51 per cent of hot
regiohs. Dr. Supan, by a different method, finds, for the same regions, 15, 32, and
53 per cent, respectively. The Continents as a whole are 3** Cent, colder than the
Oceans, between 90° N. and 50° S. lat. The New Continent is 3° Cent, colder than
the Old Continent. The Atlantic is 2° '6 colder than the Pacific. Thus the New
Continent with the Atlantic is sensibly colder than the Old World with the Pacific;
and all the Continents with the Atlantic are colder than the Pacific. General de Tillo
gives the following classification of the Continents and Oceans according to their
mean annual and monthly temperatures, in degrees Centigrade : —
Mean
January. Temp.
Australia .. .. + 2§-4
S.America .. .. + 25-1
Africa + 237
Year.
Mean
Temr.
Africa + 26*4
S. America . .
Australia . .
Indian Ocean
Pacific
All Oceans*
Atlantic
Old Continent .
All Continents* .
Now Continent .
Asia and Kurope
N. America
+ 230
+ 22-3
+ 20-4
. + 19-6
. + 18-3
. + 17-0
. +158
. 4- 1^-0
:^% l2-9
+ 10-0
. + 4-7
All Oceans*
All Continents* ..
Old Continent . .
New Continent ..
Asia and Europe
N. America . .
+ 17-9
+ 7*3
6-4
5-3
30
8-7
Mean
Jaly. Temp.
Africa + 2?*1
Old Continent
Asia and Europe
All Continents . .
S. America ..
New Continent . .
N. America . .
Ail Oceans ..
Australia ..
+ 24-5
+ 23' 1
+ 22-9
+ 20-9
+ 20-2
+ 19-7
+ 19-2
+ 16-4
• Between 90° N. and 60° S. lat.
Fopulation of the Earth. — Professor E. Levasseur has drawn up for the
Journal of the International Statistical Institute a long and elaborate series of tables
of the populations of the various continents and countries, and their subdivisions,
which may be taken as a substitute for the long-deferred new issue of the ' Bevolkerung
der Erde,' if indeed the latter has not been suppressed entirely. M. Levasseur gives
the population of the latest census years, as also estimates (when there has been no
census) for 1886. The following are some of the general results of M. Levasseur's
work : —
Great Divisions of Globe.
Area in
; Thousands of
j Square Miles.
Percentage
of ToUl
Surface.
Popniatlon
in Milliona.
Density
per Square
Mile.
Percentage
of I'oUl
Population.
Arctic Ocean
Antarctic Ocean
Atlantic „
Indian ,.
Pacitio . „
The five Oceans
I
4,632
8.108
38,612
26,256
66,799
Europe ..
Africa . .
Asia
Oceania ♦
North America
JSouth America
114,407
3,861
12,124
16,217
4,247
9,035
7,066
Five Land Parts of Globe
52,550
2-3
4-1
19-0
13-3
34-0
73-3
6-1
8-2
2-2
4-6
3-6
26-7
Total 196,957 100*0
347
197
789
38
80
32
90
16
47
9
8-8
4-6
23-4
13-3
53-2
2-6
5-4
2-1
1.483
100-0
* Including Malaysia and Australasi*.
No. XII.— Dec. 1887.J
8 H
764
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES,
In a comtnimication to the Paris Actidemy of Scieoces on tbe subject, M. Levasseur
points out that nearly two-thii-da of tlie liumaa race live grouped on a relatively
Bin all area of 4,256,000 tquara milea (about one- twelfth of the land aiea), divided
into three gronpi : Western, Centrftl, and Sautliem Euroj>o (about 245 millionB of
inhabitants and l»351,O0O square miles); the Indian Empire (245 millions of inha-
bitants and 1,380,000 square miles); China proper with Manchuria and Japan
(430 millions of inhabitants and 1^44,500 square miles). Olher conclusions M.
Levaaaeur points out, some of them obvious. Thus the most populous regions are
found along the great rivers, in many cases on the coasts; coal-basins attract a
population far more than valleys ; great cities exercise a sort of magnetic, or rather
gravitating influt^nce on people. In Europe especially, countries being in general
peopled in proportion to their riches, when the social condition of their inhabitants
is nearly the same, it is in the north-west and centre of Europe that we find tho
greatest density. High plateaus, the Borthern regions to the north of the parallel of
St. Petersburg, and the barren steppes of the south-west, are but scantily populated.
The Society's Educational Collection,— A selection of objects from
the Society'a Ex:hibition of 1885-G» with others since added, is now
arranged in a room at the Society's offices, I, Savile Eow, and is open
for the inspection of teachers and others interested in geographical
edncation,
Geography at the approaching Brussels Exhibition. — At the Inter-
national Exhibition to be held in Brubsols next year, a special section will
he devoted to topography, geography, cosmography, and the related
sciences. We are asked to draw attention to the classes of ohjecta which
aro desired for coutribntion to the Kcction. Thoy are : — (1) Maps and
atlases, topographical, geographical, geological, hydro graphical, astrono-
mical, S:c, (2) Physical maps of all kinds, plans in relief, terrestrial and
celestial globes and spheres, (3) Statistical works and diagrams, tahlea
and ephemeriils for the use of astronomers and navigators. (4) Genei-al
treatises and classical works. (5) Instruments, aide-ra^raoires, and
articles of equipment for explorers. Among the '* Desiderata *' are tho
following:— (1) The best map of the Congo, showing the most recent
discoveries ; (2) the best national map of any country ; (3) utilisation of
the sheets of a topographical map for the preparation of special maps on
the same or on a different scale ; (4) the execution of relief map« •
(.5) transference of relief to a plane surface; (6) construction of an
apparatus suitable to demonstrate by experiments the various geogra-
plrical features whicli may he presented by a river, such as torrents^
lakes, cataracts, and rapids, erosions and alluvial accumulations, sub-
terranean streams, islands, and backwaters (Jieuves morts), freezing and
breaking up of the ice, floods, formation of deltas, bars, &c. ; (7) cx>n»
struction of a tellurium; (8) portablo equipment for an explorer;
(9) statistical atlases and globes. The President of the section is
M. Wauvermans, and the Secretary, onr Honorary Fellow, Professor
Dn Du Fief. The office is at 22, Ene des Palais, Brussels,
Memorial to the late Admiral Sir Charles F. A. Shadwell, K.C.B.,
F.EJ.^ — A fund is being raised by a committee, of which Admiral Sir
I
REPORT OF THE EVENING MEETINGS. 766
A. P. Byder is the chairman, for the purpose of honouring the memory
of Sir Charles Shad well, by establishing an annual prize, consisting of
surveying instruments, for useful marine surveys carried out and pro-
jected by oflScers of not higher rank than lieutenant, while employed in
the general service. The late Admiral was distinguished in the Boyal
Navy for his many admirable qualities, and especially for his knowledge
of practical marine surveying. The sum required is lOOOZ. A sub-
scription list is open in the Map Boom of the Society.
REPOET OF THE EVENING MEETINGS, SESSION 1887-8.
First Meeting, November 14th, 1887. — General B. Strachey, R.E., f.r.8..
President, in the Gbair.
Elections. — W, E. Garforthy Esq, ; James T, Jarvis, Esq. ; Captain Augustus
Kent; Courtenay Lord, Esq.; Sir Alexander Meadows JRendel, k.o.i.e. ; Colin
D. JRosSy Esq, ; Benjamin Taylor , Esq. ; Dr. JR. Villavicencio (Consul for the
Republic of Venezuela) ; William Wallace, Esq. ; Spencer John Weston, Esq.
Presentation. — Mr. M. V, Portman.
The President opened the Session with the following address : —
In welcoming you on the occasion of the first meeting of the Society
in the present session, I am satisfied that you will join with me in
expressing the sincere thanks of the Fellows to the authorities of the
University of London for their continued kindness in permitting us to
make use of this hall for our meetings. I fear that, from the very
nature of our mutual positions, it is not in our power to make any
return to the University in a direct form, but perhaps we may consider
that we in some measure discharge the obligation by the contributions
which we make in various ways to the improvement of geographical
education and the spread of geographical knowledge.
I have much satisfaction in stating that the lecturer on geography
recently appointed by the University of Oxford — our Associate, Mr.
Mackinder — ^has commenced his lectures under very favourable auspices
as to their success, and with increasing indications of their being
appreciated by the students for whom they are designed.
At the end of next month, moreover, the examinations under the
Education Department will take place for the selection from the pupils
at the Training Colleges of those to whom will be awarded the Society's
Scholarships and Premiums, and early next year we shall be in a position
to judge of the practical working of this part of our general scheme.
Among the events interesting to us as geographers, which have
occurred since the last meeting of the Society, the progress of
Mr. Stanley on his great expedition through Central Africa for the
relief of Emin Pasha is the most important. It will be fresh in your
3 II 2
76«
REPOET OF THE EVENING MEETIKGS.
recoUeotion tlmt your Council contributed from the funds of the Society
lOOOL towardfl the expenses of tliis expedition, with a view to that sum
being applied in aid of the geographical exploration of the country
t ravers ed» and on being assure*! that the results of the exploration
would be communicated to the Society. The route chosen hj Mr.
Stanley, up the Congo and its northern tributary the Aruwimi, as far
as that river was navigable, and thence across to the Albert Nyanza,
would lead him through some 400 niiles of entirely new country, which
€0uhl not fail to yield a rich harvest of new facts in geography. The
expedition, as wo have been informed from time to time by telegrams
and letters which have been published in the daily papers, after an
arduous journey up the Congo, reached the rapids of the Aruwinai on
the 19th of June, only eight days later than the estimated time. After
establishing a stockaded post at that spot, at which he left a part of
his followers with Mojor Barttolot and Mr* Jameson (the naturalist of
the expedition), Stanley, on the 28th or 29th of June, left with a selected
caravan for his adventurous land march through the unknown country
to the wee fern shore of the Albert Lake. Details of this journey will
be anxiously expected. Meantime Emin Pasha has been apprised by
messengers eent to him from i^anzibar of the relief party, and all
promises well for the success of this great expedition, go far as the
geographical objects in view are concerned. What may be the inten-
tions of the enterprising man in whose aid the expedition was planned
is still somewhat matter of conjecture, but for my own part I have
always doubted whether he ever really contemplated leaving the
country over which he appears still to exercise rule with a courage and
ability which is well worthy of our admiration.
\\ ith regard to other African explorations, the most striking event
is the ascent of Mount Kilima-njaro iu August last, by Dr. Hans Ma^^er
of Leipzig, a traveller who has included a visit to the newly acquired
German territory in East Africa, in his contemplated voyage round
the world. The letter in which he has briefly described his foat
to his friends in Germany, states that the ascent occupied five days
and that ho reached the edge of the crater on the summit of Kibo, the
highest peak, but was prevented from descending into it, as we gather,
by an overhanging glacier- wall 150 feet high. Great credit is due to
Dr. Mayer for accomplishing what had foiled the efforts of all preceding
travellers. He estimates the height of the summit of this mountain to
exceed 19,500 feet.
The discovery of two new navigable rivers in British New Guinea, by
one of our Fellows, Mr. Theodore Bevan, is another noteworthy event,
intelligence of which has re^iched us since we last met. The journey
was only preliminary to a more thorough exploration which this en-
thusiastic traveller has planned, and was limited in duration to six
weeks, that being the time for which he was granted the use of a small
steamer (from ThurKday Island and back to Torres* Straits), by
■
B£PORT OF THE EVENING HEETlNGa 767
the public-spirited firm of Burn, Philp, & Co. An account of the ex-
pedition, with a map, communicated to us by Mr. Bevan, has been
published in the October number of our * Proceedings.' News of
another exploring journey in New Guinea has also lately reached us,
namely, the ascent of the mountain range which stretches along the
South-eastern Peninsula, of which Mount Owen Stanley is the culmi-
nating peak. This has been accomplished by Mr. 6. Hunter and Mr.
C. H. Hartmann, the former a Govemment official, long resident in New
Guinea, and familiar with the native language. All previous attempts
to reach the mountains have been made from Port Moresby, and have
been frustrated by the extreme ruggedness of the country on approach-
ing the main peaks in that direction, and the hostility of the inland
tribes. Messrs. Hunter and Hartmann succeeded in reaching tho
summit of the range where its altitude is much less by taking a
route to the south of Port Moresby. The travellers are said to have
taken for altitude metisurements only one aneroid with them, and that
got out of order, so that the height reached was not ascertained. They
attained a point, however, whence a view was obtained of open country
inland, where exploration may be expected to be easier than on the
densely wooded seaward slopes of the range.
I am indebted to Mr. Douglas Freshfield, one of our Secretaries,
for the following notes on an expedition of much interest to us which
he undertook during the summer in company with Mons. de Dechy,
in the heart of the Caucasus. Their journey (in conjunction with those
of M. de Dechy in previous years, and that of Messrs. Dent and Donkin,
of the Alpine Club, last year) will help to establish the very com-
plicated relations of the peaks, passes, and glaciers of the great central
group or massif of this splendid chain. Of this group the position
of two only of the peaks (Dikhtau, 16,925 feet, and Koshtantau, 17,095
feet), have as yet been fixed by tho Russian Surveying Staff. These stand
on a northern spur. Close to them, on or near the watershed, rise four
more summits all exceeding 16,000 feet, which will be known in future
to geographers as Shkara, Djanga, Tetnuld, and Gestola, some of them
reaching possibly to more than 17,000 feet. All of these, and also the
isolated towers of XJshba, exceed, or nearly equal in height, Kazbek
(16,456 feet). Two current delusions of orographers must now bo
finally dismissed. The greatest icefields of the Caucasus do not surround
Elbruz, but lie along the crest of the main chain between Suanitia
and Kabarddh. This portion of the Caucasian chain is far more heavily
charged with ice and snow than even the Pennine Alps. The statements
so often made as to the comparatively small dimensions of the Caucasian
icefields appear to have had no better foundation than the reports of
tourists from the neighbourhood of the Dariel Pass, and are entirely
misleading when applied to the western portion of the range, as will be
conclusively shown by M. de Dechy's series of photographs. It may
reasonably be expected that a country now within a week's journey of
res
I{EPORT OF THE EVENING MEETINGS.
England may become, like the Alps, a British playgronnd, and that we
may before long liave full materials for a physical and geological com-
pariflon of tho etructure of these two " palaces of nature," above, aa well
as below» the snow-line.
Tho results of the expedition of the French Bavants, Messrs,
Bonvalot and Capus, into KuBsian Tnrkistan, ending with their
ai dnous jonmey across the Pamir plateau into Chitral, and thence into
British India, will no doubt soon be given to the world, and may be
expected to add much to our knowledge of tho&e inaccessible regions.
You are possibly aware that a project has been formed in Yiotoria,
which ia understood to have received tho general support of Yariona
scientific bodies in the Australasian Colonies, for undertaking an expeditioii
into the Antarctic Ocean to investigate further the physical oonditions of
that very imperfectly known region.
Sir G* Berry, the Agent-General of tho Colony of Yictoria, has
brought the subject before the Council, desiring the support of the
Society to a request made to the Treasury on behalf of the Colony for
a grant of 5000^, to be applied with a like amount to be raised in
Australia for the purposes of such an expedition ; and the Council have
to-day resolved to inform the Agent- General of their completo appre-
ciation of the great valwo to geographical science of such an inveetiga*
tion as that projected, and their readiness to make a representation in
this sense to H.M. Government,
During the soaaion now opened we have promise of numerous
papers relating to original exploration of more than average interest*
At our next meeting a communication will be read from Mn Carey on
his very remarkable journey from Ladakh through Central Asia, and
from Lob Nor across the Altyn Tagh into Northern Tibet. At our
December meeting Mr, Daly, already known to us for his explorations
in the Malay reninsuU, will read us a paper on his five years* surveys
in the centre of North Burneo. After Christmas we expect papers on
tho Soudan by Major Watson ; on Trade Koutes from India to Tibet, by
Mr. Ehves ; on the Hudson's Bay, by Commodore Markham ; and on an
Exploration of the Basin of the Rio Doce in Brazil^ by Mr. Steains. '
The palmer of the evening was ** Explorationi in Siam," by J. McCarthy; —
In introducing Mr, McCarthy to the meeting, the President eaid tbftt bis paper
would bo ou the subject of tbe survey's which bo bfiH been conducting during the
past six ytB.TA m the^ kingdom of Siam* He was trained in the excellent echool of
tbe Survey of India, then nndtr General Walker^ and the resulta of bis labours form
a most remarkable coutribiTtioii to txact geographical knowledge of a vast oountey,
acquired under circumatancea which greatly a<l«i to the crC'lit due to bim. Much
ailditional interest atUcheft to the geoj^^raphy of Siam from its close connection with
that of Burma, WeJ^tern China, Cam lKj<lii and Tongkins, of which no donbt w© shall
bear somelhing in tbe tliscussion of the i>ai>er, in which we hope that Mr* Satow,
the British Miuiater at the Court of Siam, who is here this evening, will take a part.
Mr, M*CarLhy's fiaper and map will api>ear in a eubsequent number of tbe * Pro-
eeedingfi.'
( 769 )
PEOOEEDINGS OP THE GEOGBAPHICAL SECTION
OP THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION.
MANCHESTER MEETING, 1887.
Tuesdai/f September Qth (concluded).
Second Report of a Committee for inqniring into the Depth of Per-
manently Frozen Soil in the Polar Regions.* By General Sir J. H.Lbfkoy,
B.A., K.o.M.a. (Reporter). — The Committee have received a valuable communication
from Dr. Percy Matthews, ll.d., coroner for the North-west Territories of the
Dominion of Canada, and resident medical officer at York Factory on Hudson's
Bay, of which an analysis is subjoined :—
York Factory, lat. 57° N., long. 92° 26' W. (No. 9 of Report of 1886). Surface
about 51 feet above sea-lcveU
I. Positive evidence of the depth of penetration of frost,
(1) 1879-1886. By the mean of seven measurements in the channel of Hayes
river, at the mouth of which the factory is situated. Thickness of ice in January,
February, and March, 6 feet 6 inches. Hayes river has been, on the average of
the last 30 years, closed to navigation on Uie 26th November, and reopened on
the 17th May.
(2) 1882-3. By the mean of 485 measurements made in the course of a survey
of the bed of Nelson river (about seven miles north of York Factory) under
direction of Mr. H. Jukes, c.e., for the Winnipeg and Hudson's Bay R.R. Company.
Thickness of ice, or penetration of frost, in December, January, and February,
5 feet 10 inches.
Experiment. Alluvial
Superficial
Froxei
I
Soil.
Soil.
1885.
No.
Inches.
Incbea.
Inches.
(3) April 14
.. 514
22
None
33
Boring continued to 17 feet
Very dry soil.
1886.
(4) May 4
.. 517
21
2
48
Boring continued to 17 feet.
Wet soil. 20 inches of
snow on surface.
(5) May 28
.. 519
21
2i
40
Wet soil.
(6) June 4
.. 521
23
7
30
Boring continued to 18 feet.
Dry soil.
(7) June 23
.. 526
21
14
31
Boring continued to 18 feet.
(8) Juno 25
.. 527
65
68
A stratum of three inches
of frozen water was found
at 65 inches, resting on
clay.t
(9) June 26
.. 528
—
14
96
Boring continued to 21 ft.J
1881.
(10) July 23
.. 14
20
28
38
Boring continued to 10 feet
Dry soil.
♦ Vide * Proceedings R.G.S.,' 1886, p. 740.
t The MS. gives ** frost penetration 3 inches," with the explanation, *' a lodgement
of 3 inches of frozen water over clay bed at 65 inches." Evidently, therefore, the frost
had got down 68 inches. The boring was continued to 18} feet.
X Dr. Matthews adds the following note to this observation:— Taken in a dealing
770
PKOCEEBINGS OF THE GEOGKAPHICAL SECTION
On 1st July, 1886, tlio ^oil of Ko. 528 was only tlmwed 20 inches, and in
anoUier spot Mitljin tlie clearing, STJ incbts. On fJth September following, at
140 yards nortb of this spot the soil ^^aB (rozin to a depth of 102 iDclieB, with 51
inches of thawed ^^Tound nt the Biirlrmi^ find at 140 yards south of the B«toe
spot to a depth of 1*4 inches, with 42 inches of thawed ground. Other measure-
ments of the thawcil ground, September 4th and 10th, gave respectively 60
and 52 inchcB.
II, Fijcampks of excamtimi or horhg without Jtndwg frozen mil^ and of
svperfcial thau\
1870, Atip,n8t, September. In excavating a dry dock at York no frost down to
36 feet.
1879, August 25tb. 300 yards W, ; t^OO yards K.W, ; 300 yards S. of York. In a
Bwamp, no frost found down to 33 feet,
1880, August lOth. 100 yards S. ; 300 yards S. ; and 100 yards aW. as before.
Ko frost found down lo 33 feet.
1682, August 30lh (see below, Severn River),
„ Septeraber lOlh. Six graves opened in an old Indian burial-ground. Depth
of alluvial soil 48 inches. No frost down to 10 feet.
The burial-place in question hns been disused for 50 years, and the refiulta in
surrounding ground which has never been disturbed are the same.
1884, July 30th. Four graves opetjed ; depth of alluvial soil 40 inches. Thin
sandy clay ; no frost down to IC feet.
1886, May 28th. In a garden at York, thaw 71 to 9 inches.
Landslipi Hayes ri I'lT.
1884, Jnly 15th. 1 he thawed soil was 36 inches in depth.
1885, June 18th, The thawed soil was 29 inches in blue clay, 37 inches in white
clay,
1886, June 14th. The thawed soil was 28 inches.
„ Sept. 10th, On a much exposed portion of the bank of Hayes river, dry
soil, there was no frost down to 16 feet.
The following are also given as observed depth of thaw in or near York Factory^
that of the frost below not havini:' been measured.
1886, May 28th.
„ May 3l8t.
„ Jime 14 th.
„ July Ist.
„ 3rd.
Garden at York, in dry soil, 7i inches ; in wet soil, 9 inches.
In a swanjp 1000 yards south of tlie fiictory, 10 to 12 inches*
Garden at York, average IB inches.
In the swam J), 36 inches.
After two days* rain» 37 inchea.
the barest snd moat bh ak in the neighbourhood of Yurk, It is nearly at all tunea freed
from its winter's snow by I he netion of iioree winter gnles Bwee])it)g over Hudson's Bay,
So that its soil ia fully uxposed to the greatest deg^ree of froat penetration poBsible, not only
from above downwnrda, but fruni its position, ktt rally: therefore, having selected thia^
th© most expose<l »ile obtainable, I hiul a trench dug 10 feet in length down to the noo-
frozen subgoil, Tliia experiment, together with suhscqneot ones, ia in my opinion
conclusive, inasmuch as 1 consider it inctinjites the greatest depth of frost penetration
in and around York of late years, and mtiy certainly be runked as perpetual ice, but
npun a ficale so small as to he wholly comprisedj as fjir as my experience goe^, within
It) acres. To give an idea of quarrying in frozen ground in June, 1 may mention that
I had an Indian working hm-d for three diiys to obtain the above information.
OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION. 771
188G, Aug, 2ud. In the swamp, 48 inch eg, 12 borings.
,t t« t. Open ground, 40 inches, £> boringa,
„ „ 15tb. In the swamp, 49 tnchea, 15 borings.
» H 20th. „ 56 „ 12 ,,
„ „ 25 th. „ U fett, 12 „
„ Sept. 1st. j, 15 „ 3 „ after heavy rain*
n „ 8th. „ 30 ,, 3 „
The general fiummnry of the aulhor from 8 years* oljservation, is —
The greatest depth at which the soil wm found frozen was 102 inches.
„ „ „ of thaw having frozen soil below it was 52 inches,
„ „ „ reached without finding frost, 33 feet.
The mean temjieratiire by 9 years' observation?, is lli**'4 F,
Mean rainfall 22-98 inchen.
„ BDowfall 47*9L „
1882. At tlie river Severn, lat. 56^* or I*' BoiUh of York Factory, in making
a ciUtlng for a jetty, in August, no frost was found at 15 feet down.
To hts tabular statement the author ha« addefl the following: " Notea on the table
of ex(^»erimentB for ascertaining the depth of frost and thaw penetration, York
Factory, lludsons Bay " ;—
*Mn briefly examining the accompanyinf; list of experiments, it will at once Ikj
realised that m many variable conditions have to be taken into consideration in
connection with frost penetration, that it is imjioseible to form any estimate other
than that based upon a series of ex[)erimenls carried over a nnmber of years. For,
in the firet place, the extent of the winter's fro^t must be dependent upon locality
(including soil, exposure, drainage), season, and certainly from my experience, upon
the snowfall, be it early or late, much or little ; just as the depth of the sumraer's
thaw, though subject in a negative sense to likt; conditions, is to a great extent
dependent upon the rainfall. For inatanc*?, reverting to six experiments above
catalogued (Nos. 14, 614, 517, 519, 521, 526) carried out in the York churchyard
(a site which is protected by surrounding willows, pallisading, &c., and so
thoroughly in the lee that, when the country lying beyond is bare, it maintains its
covering of certainly 20 inches of snow throughout the winter), the soil is there
found to be frozen to an average depth of three feet only, whereas within 350 yards,
we learn from Ejjieriroents lS'o» 528 and two others, that under exactly opposite
coiiditiouB a depth of ujnvarda of eight feet of frost ia attained. Again, on the
same principle, if the snowfall ia late, the soil will naturally be found to be frozen
far deei>er tijan when it early covers the ground, even as the rainfall, if greal
durinj; the summer, independeiilly of season, exercises a considerable influence in
determining both the rapidity and the j)enetTation of the thaw.
"In venturing to offer some explanation of Sir John Eichardson's statement * that
the soil was found frozen to a depth of nearly 20 feet at York Factory,' apart from
the consideration of it being a severe season, which it undoubtedly was (for on
referring to old records I find that the winter of 1834-5 was exceptionally severe), I
would in all deference submit from observations of my own ufxin this point, that the
measurement alluded to gave but a section of the lateral freezing of a landslip — for
in Bounding the 'face' of a perpundicular hank, say 40 feet in height for frost
penetration, the frost will be found at its depth in relative pro[K>rtion to the height
of the bank, making all due allowance for the varying of its penetrative action in
differing strata — but if the bank be not perpendicular, but sloping, the froet follows
the dechvity, and a portion of the thawtd surface (probably due to heavy rains)
slides over the frozen subsoil, and impinging on the denser structure, abruptly
773
PROCEEDINGS OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL SECTION
breaks ofi" at Ibe point where the froat action is clieckod, and gliding od, thus
exposes a thawed surface, leaviag a deceptive froBt-Iine far below the true ooe,
which upon a cursory examination leads to the 8U|>]>osition that the ice peoetratioa
k i^reater than it really k. Though this m coiijecture as regarding the statemeat ia
Bongh Diagram of Landslip in Hayea Kiver : apparent fro»t penetration of over
14 ftiot pro rod to be only 4 feet,
question, I liiivo the rather endeavoured to illustrate not only what I have witnesaeii
my self, hut that which may be an explanation of the depth of frost alluded to in
this pHrticulnr instance*
" But in further reference to Sir John Richardson's statement * that the aoil wa«
found frozen to a depth of nearly 20 ftet at York Factory,' I must not omit the fact
that Mr. George Glad man, a chief factor of the Hudson Bay Company^s Service,
in hia evidence before the Select Committee of the House of Commons in 1H67, says,
* pita were dug there (York) with a view of ascertaining the depth of ground
thawed during summer; repeated digs^in::;® ghowed about three feet of thawed
ground, whilst the perpetually frozen ground was found to be 15 feet deep.' In
this connection, although fully admitting its corroborative force, I cannot but point
out n discrejjancy of nearly 5 feot (4 feet 10 inches) existing between Sir John
EichardBon'a experiment aud those carried out by Mr, Gladman, the same year^
plainly indicating that the site of Sir Jolm Richardson*s experiment muiJt have been
exceptional, as 1 have btfuve inferred. Jn passing on to Mr. Gladman*s experimentF,
it must he noted that the climate of York has undergone a considerable change,
even within the hist fifty yearns ; indeed, quoting from Mr, Gladman*s later evidence,
he says that * turnips aod jj;ard en-stuff failed at York on account of the nearness of
the sea, the severity of the seasons, and summer frosts/ Wliereas now, speaking
from a personal exjierience of upwards of eight years, I may say that no difficulty
whatever exists in providing the esUblishment with very passable potatoes, ei*
cellent turnips, and seveml kinds of 'garden stuff,' and that many kinds of flowering
plants thrive in the ot^en air. The country surrounding York fifty years ago was
thickly wooded, and more swampy than it now is; evidence of its being so ia
present to-day in the innumerable grassy hillocks dotted around the settlement^
• It is to be observed of the above diagrani, tlmt if the line of fracture instend of
being only some four or ^ve feet back from the cfd^je of the bLink had been twice or thrico
that distance, tho whoU- frozen part would have disappeared and the section have di«-
eloscd the leal depth of the fruet, pmvided the slip occurred, na they lutially do, at &
|>eriod of the year too advanced for the new face to freeze to any depth.
OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION.
773
formed by the decayed a tamps of trees forced up out of tho ground by the comprca-
sive actioa of frost. Therefore, uoder these altered conditions, Dot only would the
frost penetration be deepr, the thaw be leas, hut * j>erpetiial ice * would extend at
a greater depth over a much larger area than it now does* Something may also be
attributed to a disposition which prevailed among the older generation of fur- traders
to mioimise the suitability of t!)e Xorth-west fur ugricultiiral settlement.
** I am not in a position to offer any very satUfactory explanation as to the frost
pcnetmtion being so relatively small at York, conBidcrtng tho mean tempeniture of
the year, beyond statiog that the surroundiDg country contaius numerous springs,
which may be readily tapped at aoy time during the winter ; that the subsoil is ciay>
though this perhaps hardly bears upon the question when closely examiiied.
Doubtless, the inconsiderable height above the sea-level, and * the immediate vicinity
of a large body of unfrozen water,' are important factors, and do exercise & great
influence upon the surrouuding countrj% although I must not omit the more Imme-
diate bordering of some miks of frozen water for upwards of five months in the year.
As to whether the i>eaty formation of much of its soil has any appreciable influence
in ab^rbing and accumulating the intense tropical heat of summer is a question
beyond my humble ken, but that the frozen subsoil acts as a 'provision' in the
earlier part of summer, in counteractiog the effects of such heat as regardiog vegeta-
tion, is a fact that can be, in my opinion, incontestably proved in aome parts of tho
country immediately surrounding York/'
In a second communication, dated 27th July, 1887j Dr. Matthews, in answer to
questions, reiterates his belief that no permanently frozen ground now exists at
York Factory, with the sligiit qualifications stated above : —
" The climate has unquestionably changed, and tlie surface vegetation equally.
The prepuce of grass> superseding moss, of itself would materially influence frost
ixnetration, but with the drying up of the country, owing to many causes (uprising
of the land, &c,)i the frost penetration would bo less. The surface vegetation is, in
my opinion, a more important factor than water/*
He quotes Indian testimony as well as comparison of records to prove that the
rivers open about a week earlier and close about a week later than they did
50 years ago*
The Committee are indebted to Dr. J. Rae for the following communication : —
The station in question is only a little north and east of No. 20 in the first report.
Ice in ground. By Frederick C. Baker, Binscartb, Manitoba. — Twenty-threQ
observations taken in the pmirie lands of Manitoba. Approximate position — Lat,
50° 40' N.. long. 101^ 20' W.; east of Assiniboino river.
Q, How deep do«s frost penetrate the ground, and how la depth affected by greater
or less quantity of snow on ground?
A. On May 20ih last year, 1886, frost was found whilst digging a cellar 5 feet
below surface. High ground near a prairie. In June 1883, whilst digging a cellar
of the Binscartb company's store, frost was met with at a depth of 9 feet
On 20th April last year (1886) we drove fenoe-poats 2 feet into ground without
touching frost.
Cannot say exactly how far depth of snow affects penetration of frost, but our
creek got frozen to the bottom this winter (1880-7) for want of a good supply of
snow on first ice, therefore suiipose that want of snow on ground would facilitate the
deeper penetration of frost.
Dn Rae adds here : — " From my own knowlcilge, the bottom of pools which
have been in winter frozen to the bottom, remain scilid ice for a long time after
much of the ice is thawed out of the land not covered by water*
774
PROCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES.
Q. Have you heard of or seen any frost in ground in autumn ? If so, how far
down in llie earth bus it been ?
A. Never heard of any of the old stock of ice remaining so long.
Q. At what time of the year dots the ground becx)me quite free from frost?
A, If you mean f^r farming operations, ploughing can generally be got at between
the 10th and 15th April
Q, How far have you usually, in your district, to dig fur water ?
A. Everything depends upon the locality. When shale is known to be under
ground, water is sure to be got when it is reached, and g(jod water too; Beams of
ahale vary as to their depth. Wei la range from 9 to 200 feet in depth. A well of
the latter depth (200 feet) haa just b«^en dug at Birtle (March IB 87) on the Manitoba
and N.W. Kail way, through all clay, hut is on the high banks of the Birdtaii river or
creek, where a person would exiect to have to go deep. At Binscarth Station
the w*elL ia 84 feet deep througli clay ; this is alsjo near tho banks of a creek. My
well 18 DOW 61 feet, also on the hank, with the creek 64 feet below. We struck a
very fiUgbt spring at this depth, which gives us only about six inches of water,
through a hard clay. We intend going down until a good spring ia reached,
which we expect to find below the level of the creek, at had. So much for the
deep wells,
I know lots of wells about here from 9 to 40 feet, I think one may say the
average is 30 feet.
There is never much difficulty in ^getting water at a reasonable depth ou the
ordimiry level prairie uhout here. During the summer of 1883 we used water from
a well not over six feet deep, but that was not a dry year,
Q. Do you know any explanation of the working of the willow in finding
springs ?
A, Both the openings of tho well of Birtle and Binscarth were found by this
method, and a number of others.
This evidence that llbabdomancy has sincere believers in the CanadiaQ prairies
is not without curioaity.
PEOCEEDINGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES.
Geographical Society of Paris.— 'NoveniI>er 4th, 1887 : M, Hamy> Vice-
Presiiient, iu the Chair. — This was the first meeting of the Society after the vacation.
The General Secretary announced the death of Captain Verzeaux, a promising young
ofiicer, who farmed part of RouviePs expedition to West Africa, and had special
charge of the topographical work. — The Geographical Society of Lisbon intimated
the death of its President, M. Antonio Augusto d'Aguiar.— The programme of the
questions to he submitted to the Congress of learned Societies next year was
forwarded by the Minister of Public Instruction. — Two letters were read announcing
new expeditions^Hifue from Dr. Colin, stating that he was on the point of starting for
the Soudan ; and tbc other from Dr. A, de Beausaet In Chicago, iutiniating his
intended departure on June 10th from Kew York on a journey of exploration in
the Arctic regions. — The Minister of Foreign Affairs tmnsmitted a collection of
photographic views and a pamphlet, which had been forwarded to M. Rouvier^
French Minister at Buenos Ay res, by M. J. Popper, with reference to his travels in
Tierra del Fuego. — Some correspondence was received with regard to the work being
done hy Frenchmen in Tongking. Lieutenant de Feaigny was engaged in studying
the navigation of the rapids of the Mekong, and the question of fltivial communica*
tion in Laos. Under his direction M, N. Pardoux with a party had successfully
PROCEEDINGS OF FOREIGK SOCIETIES,
readied the Kcmg rapids (Upper Mekong) ; on airmng at Stung-Treng, they met
with a very cold reception from tlie Siamese general, tbe Khnl, who refused them a
pilot, but allowed them to proceed. They had great difficulty in further pursuing
their voyage up stream to the village of Cosdara, in sight of the first falls of Khon.
Some of the pnrty were left to explore the rapids, while De F'^aigay and Pardoux
returned to Kratti^. There is little trade at present in this region, owing to want of
proper communication. The writer considers Khon and Sttmg-Treng to be the keys
of all the coiamercL* of Ceotral and Eastern Tndo-China*— ^Ati extract from a report
by Dr, Vemeau on the ancient peoples of the Canary Islands was read.— Dr. Kouire
requested the insertion in the * Compte Rendu ' of a memoir relative to the lagoons
on the shores of the Gulf of Hammamet (Tunis). — A letter, dated August 10th,
1887, from Loango, was received from M. J. Cholet, governor of the Niari district,
announcing the sudden death of Captain Plelj^neur through the capsizing of his
canoe. Captain Pieigneur had done good work in completing our knowledge of
this district by his surveys^ and was engaged in preparing a detailed map of the
Kuilu-Niari region, — A communication was read from M, A. Bardey on the question
of M. Oenry*® project for opening a new route to Harar by way of the Gadi Butbi,
The same correspondent also wrote that he had just received a letter from
M. A. Riralmud, giving particulars of his route from Shoa vi4 Harar to Zeila, and a
description of the country. — Letters were received from M. H. Coudreau, announcing
his arrival at Saint-Laurent on the Maroni (Guiana), whence he intended, in com-
pany with Apatou, the companion of Crevaux, making a thirty days' canoe-voyage
to the Honcouyenne InriianSj on the nordi slope of the Tumuc-Humac Range, about
2** 30' K. and 46° W, ; he would then tmvel across the mountainous country from
village to village, — An interesting manuscript with map was received from
M, Olivier Ordinaire, the French V ice-Consul at TarragoDa, containing notes on his
journey from Lima to Iquitos (Peru), along the river Palcazu. This memoir will
he inserted in the Quarterly Bulletin. — The Minister of Public Instruction announced
the receipt of a letter iJated June 12th> from M. Thouar, on his explorations in
Bolivia. He had been shut up in Chaco since January, all means of communication
having been closed j he was then marching to Paraguay.— *T he Chairman intimate<i
that M, Custodio do B<jTJa, kte governor of Portuguese Guinea^ was present at the
meeting, and welcomed him. M. de Borja briefly replied. Tiie Chairman also
noticed in a few well-selected terms the presence of M. Balhty, Governor of Gabon,
Dr. Paul Neis, M, E. Cotteau^ who had returned from his short journey to the Amu
Daria, and M. Chaffanjon, also returneil from the Orinoco. M. Hamy said that a
special meeting would be held in the Sorl)onnB Hall on Noveml>er 22Qd, to receive
M, Cliaffanjon, and another meeting in the same hall at an early date to welcome
MM. CapuB and Bonvalut. He concluded by announcing that, thanks to tbe efforts
of the comraandera in Upper Senegal, notably of Lieut.-Coh Gallieni, a French
gtm-boat had got up the Niger as far as Kahara, the port of Timbuktu. — ^In conctu-
sioti Dr. Ijibonn© gave an account of his second journey to Iceland in discharge of
the mission with which he had been entrusted by the Minister of Public
Instruction.
OeograpMcal Society of Berlm. — November 5th, 1887 : Herr W. Reibs in
the Chair, — ^Profe^sor Bastian welcomed Lieut. Wiswmann on his return from his
second journey across the African continent, and in the course of his remarlfs
pointed out that highly important results accrued to science when explorers, who
visited as the first Europeans a region previously quite unknown, made their ethno-
graphical collections at once, because experience had taught us that the briefest
contact with civilisation was sufficient to introduce the germ of death into the
alioriginal conceptions of the native jTeoples, This authorised demand on the fiort of
ethnology many travellers had disregarded, and for this th*^y could hnrdly he
776
PROCEEDOiGS OF FOREIGN SOCIETIES.
blamed, where they had had to struggle hard with the necessities of the raonient,
Wisfimanii, Kund, and Tappenbeck had laid ethnology uoder the greatest obligaticwi,
because thoy had brought home rich ethnogra|ihical collections from tribea foriuerly
unknown ; moreoverj tliey had in consequence imposed upon themselves manj
|XTSonal privations in order to spare the necessary porters for the transport of the
collections. — Lient, Wissmann then gave a gtnerol report upon his travels in the
South Congo basin, from the end of 1883 to the middle of 1887. He oommenced
with a very brief sketch of the first part of bis journevings, which consisted of the
first voyage np tlie Kassai, He then, gave an outline of the second part of hia
travels, vm:. the journey of 1886 made after a ehort stay in the island of Madeira,
By his last Jonmey up the Kassai he has determined that the Kwant;o is the largest
tributary of the Kassai. In 3^ 41' S. lat. and 18° 40' long. (E. of Greenwich) be
found the place where Lieut. Kund had crossed the river ; this point had not been
astronomically determined by the latter. The Sankuru has only half the vobinoe
of water possessed by the Ki^sai above the confluence of the two rivers, so lh*il
those who would designate the whole river system with the name of Sankufu are
wrong. The great forward march of Wissmann into the unknown territory to the
north of the Sankuru and the Lomani was commenced from LuUiaburg with li
caravan of about lOOO men. Sangula Meta, the sister of the Bashilange chief
Kalamba, again joined the party, she having already accompanied the first expedition
to Nyangwe, A lengthened stay was made on the Lubi, where punishment waa
inflicted on the powerful tribe of the Bona Ngonga, who hod attacked and plundered
Pug2;e on his return from the Lualaba in 1882, After this, the Sankuru was
crossed at a point below its confluence with the Lnbi ; the party then entered the
region of the mighty virgin forests. From the 15th to the 27th December, 1886, ihia
extremely wearisome and painful march lasted. The woods are sparsely peopled by
the savage Batetela and Batua, and the large caravan was unable to find aulGcient food-
Even elephants are not met with in theae forestSjWhere a gloomy silence reigns supreme.
The Batua are, on an average, about 4| feet in height, and are timid and ahy. The
Batetela are, like wild beasts, suspicious, and may be compared to isavage doga.
The want of provisions compelled Wissmann to give up the march to the north-north-
east, and to turn his steps to the eouth. He thus had to i>a»s through the territory
of the marauding Ben Mona, and this was only accomplished by the employment of
force. From the 28th December, 1886, to the 23rd January, 1887, the caravan marched
through the region of the gigantic villages met. with on the first journey. Now tho
district was completely depopulated. War and small-pox had entirely deva3tato<l
the country. The want of lootl was so great that Wissmann lost eighty men from
hunger and smalUpox on the journey from the Sankuru to Nyangwe. In the
latter place he found comlitions a bo very much changed in con sequence of the eventa
at Stanley Falls. The bearing of the Arabs towards tbe traveller was decidedly
hostile- In view of the disorganisation of his caravan from hunger and sicknesti,
Wissmann found himself compelled to abandon his intention both of trarelHng up
tbeupi^er Lualaba and of proceeding to JWuta Nziga He therefore despatched hia
Bashilanges with his colleague Lieut. I^e Marinell back to Luluaburg, while he him-
self set out on the route to the east coast, viH Tangauj'ika, Lake Nyassa, and down
the Zambesi (Lenz'a route). It ia not at present known whether Le Marinell has
reached Luluaburg, no news having arrived* In tbe region between the I^omani and
the Sankuru the conditions of trade have completely altered since 1884, Now
glass beads, arms, and powder form the chief articles of barter^ having replaced the
earlier cowry shells. The former are supplied by the Bih^ caravans in exchange
with the Bassonge for slaveSj which they then exchange with the Bakuba for ivory.
The Bakuba buy the women slaves for their households, but the men for victims at
their funeral solemnities.
:
( 777 J
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
(By J* Scott Keltie, Librarian b.q.s.)
EIJEOPE.
Anricll, H* [TOn»] — Historiscber Ueberblick tiber dio Kolonisation dcs Schwnrzmeer-
Kvistengebiet dea Kankasus. * Russische Kevue,* xvi. Jalirgang. 2 Heft, 1887.
[Enrope.] — Europaische Wanderbilder. Illuslmted Europe* Zuricb^ Orell Ftiseli
& Co.; London, C, Smitb & Son. Pric© Bd, each number. [Presented by
Messrs, Orell FiiBsli & Co.]
Tbere are about 130 of these cxtTeTnely bandy, carefully compiled, and pro-
fusely and beautifully illustrated handbooks. As will be seen by the titles of
those which Messrs. Orell Ftissli & Co. have been gooil enough to send us, each
relatea to a very limited district, and as the average size is only about thirty
pages, they are easily curried about. As will be teen from the titles, many of
them have been translated into English, and we believe tliero are tmuBlations
of several of them of which we have only the German editious. The following
are the titles of those which Imve been sent us : —
Ifo. 1. The Artli-Elgi Bfttlwdj,— No. 2. Die Uetltberg-Bahn. Von J. J. Eindn-, Zweltc Auflflgf.—
N<i. 3. Ttie VitniJLU-Rlgl-Halt.-'No, fi. l^er WAllfabrtMrt Einniedeln.^No. ft. Zurich ukI Itjs Ed-
▼iron**.— K«, ID. CoDfiUnce Atid it» Kiivirona.— No. H, Nyon *hcl it« Envircnu. By Aug. Teitiu. —
No. ilij. IIiiidIh. By a. lit mnpf. — Nt<. 13. Luorne and iu EnvifCitiid.— No. 14. iJbt 'JusBthAl. Von
Dr. 4i. Geilfn*.— No. 14, Floreirrc. Bj S fl. .M. By era— Nor. 15, Its. MIIar. By J. Mirdnw'yeT,^
Nowir, SchAinmnBeci and the Fullnof tbe Hbltie,— No. 18. Hagu-Pfo'fere.— No. 19. Veveyjls Kn-
virraiA and Clljuate. By Alf. Orew-lw,— No, 20, Tbe UetJi* of h rt^uib (Bad Kreuthi in tlie fiavarlAD
Atp*.— No. 31. Dttvo*,— No. 2!i. The Bnth«* of Keinirt. By P. r>f nplcr- No. 2J, Tbff flruyir*: JIjo
new moiintAln road from Vevey tu [nti^rlaltrn, Hy liulle-Hottl^i;*-!!.— Nofc. '14, 26, 36. Tbe St. Gf^tbord
Hallway.— No. 25. KiMiicrz In drr obt«rn Stclennjirli. Von Jolmnn KrAin?.. — Not. 37, 38. Freiburg
ntaden) and Itji Knvironi*. Py L. Nijumann. — No. 29. Pyrmcmt. TtlUHtrirt and beschrleben von
Hobert Oil Hale r. — No. 'J9. Vniacii In Kanvten undiwine UiU|^ebun(7. Von Hcitirkh Noe.— Noa. 29, 30.
Qorberadorf. Dr. Brehmer's NTitrntortum for OtnrtumptivoJ*. By R. Ortmann. — Ny#, ai, 32. Clmux-
de'Food:», Locle, Dririeta^ and their Knvlrona.— No. 33. Fr«>m Frobursr ^4) \Valdenbiir«: An t- xcunlon
aivf^nf^ Ibo niountnlfi!* of So'.cure and Bojile.— No«. 34» 35. The Bbrgenstock (I ake of Lucj?rn«'). By
Hr. W. Culja^flK— NtM*. :iii» at. Nnuhntel and iU hjavimm. Hy A. tiachelin.— JSoci. 36, 3v. Had
Kraiikcnhtll-T'>i£ im bay^-rischen Hochlando, V«rti Gailav Scbaefer.— N(n«. 'la^ 39. Battaglla. near
I'adna, By Kdward Mautnor.— Nui. 4i , 41. Coire a,md its KnvlroQ». By Dr. E. Killlai,— Not. 42, 43.
Dafl VoPchrlBtlkbi* Koin„ \tm Dr. 0. Henne-Amrbyn.~Nt>». 4'i, 4:i» 44. Tbe line ibrough CarynlbUi
and tbo i*U9tcrtbaL By Dr. Henry No*.— Sow. 44^ 45, 46. AJaccIo ala Winlerkmrf^rt iiiwl die In**!
( .^yralca. Von Knd, Gertxr. — Noa. 45. 46, 47. li'nmx (Jenuany to lialy. The Brenner HallMay from
the liiver Inn 1o Lalce iJarda. By Dr. Henry Nw, — Nos. 47, 4w. Augaburg. Von Adolf BuCT.— Noa.
4^, 49, M. From tlifl tJ&nul»e to the Adriatic : Vbnno. Siinixierlnic. I te»i«, AbliAila. By Dr, Henry
Ko^.^Noft. 4fl, 60. Bonn nnd i-eiue UniKetmni;. Von Ludwtg Lorbach." Nos. 61, 62, GruL^-Noa. 63,
54. Troro Faria to Bcrtit vik D^Jim i.nd rtml-iirii^r.— Noa, 66. 66. The t^ke of Lnctrme. By J.Uard-
ineyer.— No. 67* Tbe Bf rgetraisse frotii Jugenhidm to Aurrbacb. By Kmat I'maqud. — Noa. AB, 69.
Atj(*le»-BuliiB and Ita Environs. By V. Barbicr.— Nt». eo, 61. Ht^fdelberg. By Carl Pfaff.— Noa. 62.
63, 64, Budapest. By I'jJmund Steioackcr.— No. es. Montreux tLaki* uf (feneva). From the Freiwh
of Alfred CercMle.— No«. 66, 67, ej*. Locarno and its Valleyn. By J. ilanitncyer.— ?•(*». 69, 7iJ. 71,
72- C«Bton Glaruaand tbe I^keof Waienstadt. By Ernst Bupa,— Nf.«. 71, 72. Dnrch den Artberir.
Von Lnduig von Hurrnann, — Now. »3, ?i, 7i, 7G. Frcim I'aria U* Milan via ilont C<»ni& (l"tiiJioa). By
V. Barbler,— No*. 77, 7». 7^. Tbe Black Foro«t Railway (GratKl-hucby of Baden). By J. HMirdmeyer.
— Noa. 77, 7lt, 7JJ, i^O. KoD«tantinopel uiid Uuip^bnng:, Von P. Leonhardi.— Nos. fll, n2. WalliH (lud
ChamQulx: Vouder Fnrka bin Bug, Vijn. F. U. \^olf.— No. (>3. Dai National-Denkmal am N^eder-
wald. Von JoMf .Schrftttenholy..— No«. 92, 93. Bad Driburg: Aur tfrm ^lagebucbo clnes Hyp<i>*
t'hLiwtJua. Von tir. Thcodor Rjelen^tabL— Nos. 04, 06. WnllJs nnd Chumfnlx. II. Heft. Brig nnd
dT Mmplon. Von F. O. Woii— Nob. 99,100. Joi. 102. Wallis uiul Clianiontx. lU. IJeft. Dio
VUperthiiler. Vou. F. O. Wolf.— Nos. 103, li»4. Murlen. Von \^. V. .Stock.- Nos. 106, 106, 107.
^\alMs und Cbanaonix. IV. Heft, l^otscben nnd Leukerbtil. Vcn F. 0. VVi^lf— Nob. lf>8, J0*», IK).
Wailiii uml Cbamonlat. V. Heft. Pie TbUler von Tortnian nnd Elfisch, Von F, O. Wolf.^Nw. 114,
lia, M6. Lugano und die VerbindnngftllnU- awiechen den drei ©JjeriUlieniscben S^ee'n. Von J, Hard-
meycT. — Noa. 121, 122. fiaj] C'udowa ( Provlnx Scble«leu): E^nilge A i>en-tliiej] quelle I>eutffcli1andt,
ijeTiLUEif;egeben und bearbeitet von ¥. h. JUanreb. — Noa. 123, 124. lilo HolienlhalbalLn. Von SieglVted
BodenbeliQcr.^No. 126. FrledHchiJiafen am Bodefiaea.
Freshfield, D. W.— A Skeleton Diary of Six Weeks' Travel in the Central Caucasus,
in 18B7. * Alpine Journal,* November, 1887.
In Mr. Freshfield*8 notes, as well as in the numerons views and panoramas
that accompany them, the geographer, as well as the Alpinist, will find mnch to
jntereit bim*
I
L
778 NEW GEOGRAPmCAL POBLICATIOXS,
iBvestija Tmperatorslcago Eussltago geographiclieakago obscheatva* Proceedings of
the Imperial Russian Geographical Society, vol, xxiiL fttsc, 3 : Si. PeterBburc:, 1887.
Thifl number contains an anthropilo^ical excursion across Asia Minor, by
A, Y. EUseief ; preliminary report on an expedition to Kan-snh br G. N. Pota-
nin, with appeudlces ; (1) Letter of M. M. Ikrezfjvsixy ; (2) Halting-pLacea
of the expedition and positions astronomically determined by 8kassl ; the
Mariytch and contiguous 8tep|>e3 of the Caucsi^ua, by D. L* Ivanof ; a coatribu-
tion to the natural history of the northern CaucAaus, by V. A. Fansek, with
appendices inchidtT^g a note on the herbarium of Messrs, Ivanof and Fausek
collected in tlie government uf Stavropol ; an explanation of the map of
Prejevalsky'a fourtli journey in!o Central Asia, together with a list of baro-
metrical heights determined by him. An English veraioa of this map ia pub-
liflhed in our May * Proceedings * for this year.
Zopiski Iraperatckrskago Russkago geographiche^kago obachestva. Memoirs of tlve
Imperial Hueaian Goograj>hical kSociety, Section of General Geography, vol. 3tv.
No. 3, pp. 48 ; St. Feter«biirg, IHHG,
On the roMiltH of a survey of Lake Baikal, by F. D. Chersky. The antbor
thus sums up his urticle: — "Repcarijig the concluding words of my re[Xprt for
1879> 1 will f;ay onee more that the Baikal is not a rift in the .lunissic deposits,
nor a subsidence, nor the reault of plutooic and rolaiuic disturbances. Known
to have existetl at the periixl of the deHiccatiou of a pre-Silurian ocean, it has
been formed by slow and gradual changes which have been acting from that
t'me to the present, every miuuto adding something new to the peculinnties of
its bassin."
The same series (vol. xvi. Ko, 2, pp* fi9, St. Petersburg, 188fi) contains a
phyaico-geographica] description of the south-eastern part of the government of
Oloneta by the late J. J. Poliakof. The facta collected lead to conclusions
adverse to th« theory maintained by eminent geologists, and espcciatty by
M, InoBtrantftef, that the U' hite Sea and the Baltic were united in the Post-
tertiary epoch.
Zapiski, d'c.» Section of Ethnography, vol. xiv. Na 2, pp. 218, 1 plate ; St, Peters*
burg, 1886.
Contains a treatise on the Yotiaks of Soeuofsky, by Count Verentchagin.
Sosnofsky U in the eastern part of the district of Sarapul In the governmnit of
Yiatka, its chief village Sosnofka being about 40 miles frtim the river Kama.
It is here that I he Votiaks are nmiuly congregated^ and have preserved relics of
their heathenish practices. According to traditiuu they carae hither frx>m
beyond the Kama to escape persecution by the authorities.
The samn Rt-riea (vol. xv. No. 7, pp. 57, St. Peters^burg, 1886) contains a
journey in north-eaatern Persia, and the trana-Caspian region by A. M, KikuL-^ky*
At the ooncluaion of his article the author gives a list of animals and plants of
Azerbaijan, Fan* and Turkoniani.i with their native e<:|uivalenti!. — [E.B.MJ
ASIA.
Porbes, Anna. — lusulindc: Experiences of a Naturalist^d Wife in thii Eastern
Archiixdago. Edinburgh, Blackwood, 1887 : 8vo., pp. xii. and 305, Price 8«. Crf,
[Presented by the Publishers.]
Mrs, Forbe» U the wife of the well-known naturalist and traveller,
Mr, H, O. torlxs. She acoompanied him during much of his wanderings in the
Eastern Archii^lngo, and, m we know from Mr. Forbes^ narrative, lived alooe
for some time among the hills of Timor. lu this volume nhe has wntleii a
charmiug account ol her experiences. 8hc is au excellent observer, and aa ahe
was intert>8led in many other tilings besides her husbimd's work, her book may
bo taken as to some extent supplifmeutary to his. Her minute detcriptioos of
the manners of svhites and natives in these eastern colonies are such as only an
observant woman could wriie, and they will be, to a large extent, new to many,
Shu touches juet on those points that many people desire to get information
about, but cannot 6nd it.
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIO^'S. 779
Marche, Alfired.— Lii9on et Falaouan. Six Add^ de Voyages aux Philippines.
Paris, Hachette, 1887 : 870., pp. vi. and 406. Price 4 francs, [Presented by the
Publisher.]
M. Marche is already known as a traveller in West Africa. The present
volume gives some of the results of a scientific mission with which he was
entrusted by the Minister of Public Instruction, and which kept him about the
Indian Archipelago from 1879 to 1885. Besides the Malay Peninsula, M. Marche
made excursions into various parts of the island of Ln^on. After returning to
Europe for a few months in 1882, he went out again, aud devoted a considerable
time to Palawan and the islands to the north-east, afterwards crossing over to
Mindanao and the Sulu Archipelago. M. Marche seems to us a careful observer,
and his work an important contribution to the geography, ethnology, and
natural history of the region visited. There are numerous good illustrations
and two small maps.
Wilson, James Harrison. — China : Travels and Investigations in the Middle
Kingdom. A study of its civilisation and possibilities ; with a glance at Japan.
New York, D. Appleton & Co., 1887 : or. 8vo., pp. xx. and 376. [Presented
by the Publishers.]
This volume gives a good general idea of the progress and present condition
of things in China. The author visited the country more especially for the
purpose of ascertaining the actual condition of affairs in respect to railroads and
other modern improvements. He has much to tell us regarding the country
and people. The following are a few of the subjects dealt with : — ^Tho
Hoang-ho, or Yellow River, its inundations and embankments, and change of
river-bed ; the Yang-tse-Kiang, its navigation, tributaries, floods, &c. ; the
Chukiang or Pearl River; the Min; the Pei-ho and its tributaries; the
Peh-tang; the New-chwang, and the Ta-wen-ho; the Grand Canal and its
embankments, &c., &c. Besides visiting China and Japan, the author spent a
week in Formosa, travelling over its northern end, examining its rivers and
harbours, and studying its resources. There is a map of China illustrating the
volume.
AFRICA.
Anderson, Andrew A. — ^Twenty-five Years in a Waggon in the Gold Regions of
Africa. London, Chapman & Hall, 1887 : two vols. 8vo. Vol. I., pp. x. and
307 ; Vol. II., pp. vi. and 253. Price 24«. [Presented by the Publisher.]
The leading results of Mr. Anderson's many years' joumeyings in South
Central Africa will be found in the * Proceedings,' Vol. VI. (1884), p. 19, where
also is given the map constructed from his observations. The present work is a
rambling one, combining his own imperfectly-dated and loosely-recorded travel-
ling experiences, with a large amount of information compiled from various sources
on the countries embraced in this region. He says one object of his work is to
instruct young readers and others in the physical geography of South Africa,
the importance of which he rightly insists upon, as a basis Iwth for the com-
mercial and political development of the country. These volumes contain a fair
amount of physical geography, and will bo found useful on account of the
general information they give on the various countries with which they deal.
There is no map, no index, and a few extremely poor illustrations.
Bayol [Dr.]— Voyage en S^n^gambie. In 'Revue Maritime et Coloniale,' Sep-
tember-November 1887.
Dr. Bayol is Lieutenant-Governor of Senegal, and these * Notes,' which are
to be continued, give the results of his own experiences.
Chavagnac, Maurice [De]. — De Fez k Oudjda. Bulletin, Paris Geographical
Society, 3« Trimcstre 1887.
Although the journey here described was made in 1881, still, as it deals
with a region about which we know little, it is by no means out of date. It is
accompanied by a good map.
No. XIL— Dec. 1887.] 3 2
780
IJEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUCATIONS.
CrOUCllf Arclier P,'-Oq a Surf-bound Coast; or, Cable-laying in the African
Tropica, London, Sampson Low & Co., 1867 : cr, 8vo., pp. xii. and 338. Price
7s* G(i. [Presented by the Publiahcrs.]
Forma a portion of a diary kept during a cable-layiog expedition down the
Weat Coast of Africaj from the Enulisb setUement of Bathurat to the Portuguese
town of St, Paul do Lo^anda, Tha present volume deab only with the firat
portion of the joumey, down to the author's departure from Accra, which
covers three only out of the six months occupied by the whole expedition.
There is neither index nor map.
Maurice, [Col.] J, F.— Military History of the Campaign of 1882 in Egypt. Pre-
pared in the Intelligence Branch of the War Office, London, Harrison & Sons,
[1887] : 8vo., pp. vi, and 216. Price 7s. 6rf. [Presented by the Intelligence
Branch of the War Office.]
The value of this work is greatly increafted by the number of maps, &c»,
which occupy a greater portion of the volume. Th^e are : — Sketch of Forma-
tion for Attack on Tel el-Kebir, Map No. 1.*— Sketch map of Lower Egypt,
wilh plan of Cairo. No. 2.— Sketch map to illustrate the concentration on
Jsmailia from England, India, and the Mediterranean* No. 3,— -Sketch of ,
Country between Alexandria, Abukir, and KaFr ed-Dauar. No. 4, — Sketch
of the Ramleh position. No, 5. — Sketch of the Tower Hill position at
Bamleh, No, 6. — Plans of IfimtuUa : — (a) Previous to the disembarka*
tion of the British Array, (b) Showing improvements effected subsequent
to the disembarkation of the British Army. No, 7, — Map (in three sheeta)
showing country between Ismailla and Tel el-Kebir, viz. :— Sheet L lii-
mailia — Magfar. Sheet 2, Tel el-Maskhuta — ^Kasaassin. Sheet 3. T^ el*
Kebir — Aabasa Lock. No. 8.^ — Map (in four 8heet8)i illustmtincr the action at
Kassassin on the 9th September, 1882, and the Battle of Tel el-Kebir. No, 9-
— Map showing Camps of British Troops on the Island of Bnlak, No. 10, —
Plan of the British Cemetery at Tel el-Kebir, with names of officera and men
burial there.
HeBSer [Br.]— Ueber aeice in Gemeinschaft mit Kev. Grenfell untemommene
Beifiihrung des Kuanga bis zn den Kingnudji-Schuellen. * Verhandlungen der
Geaellschaft fiir Erdknnde zu Berlin.' Band, xiv. No. 8. 1887.
This yiftper describes a journey made by Dr. Mefiser in company with
Mr. Grenfell, on board the steamer Feace^ up tlie river Quango in December
1886.
M tiller, Hendrik P, H.—Een Bezoek aan de Delngoa-Baai en de Lijdenbnrgsche
Gondveldeo. Haarlem, H. D, Tjeenk Willink, 1887: 8vo., pp. 37, illustrations.
[Presented by the Author.]
— Beknopt Versing van de Voordracht ovor Oost-Afrika, gehouden door den
Heer Hendrik P. N. Muller, naar aanlciding zijner Beizen in Afrika, op Maart
1887 in het Nederlandsch AardrijkHkundig Genootschap, Amsterdam, C, L.
Brmkman : Svo.* pp. 7, map. [Presented by the Author.]
AMERICA.
Blif ham, William T,— Guatemala, the Land of the Quetzal London, Fisher
Unwiu, 1887 : 8vo., pp. xv. and 453, Price 21^*. [Presented by the Publisher.]
This is a welcome addition to our knowledj];e of a region about which we
know comparatively so little. As Mr, Brigham points out, there are thousands
of square mi lea of wholly unexplore^i territory between the low isthmus of
Tehuan tepee and the Lake of Nicaragua. Mr* Brigham has evidently con-
eiderable ]>er8onal acquaiufaaco both with Guatemala and the other Central
American republics. He haa drawn upon this as well as upon other sourcea in
order to write a fairly complete and systematic account of the country ; while, in
the introductory chapter, he gives some useful notes on the neighbouring StateB,
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS. 781
in which, however, the statistics seem rather old. The author begins with a
sketch of the old kingdom of Guatemala. He then in a series of chapters takes ns
around and across the country in various directions, beginning with the Atlantic
Coast and its connections. He guides us across the continent westward to Coban,
from Coban to Quezaltenango, and thence to the Pacific. One chapter is devoted
to Guatemala city, and two others to the country between Guatemala and
Quirigua by Esquipulas. Myth and history are dealt with in a chapter on the
Olden Time, the Modern Bepublic in another chapter, while the two concluding
chapters are devoted to vegetable and animal productions, and to earthquakes
and volcanoes. In the last chapter the author gives a list of volcanoes in
Central America, active and extinct, though he believes the list contains only
a tithe of what exists. He also points out what a splendid field exists here
for a young man with a strong constitution and a training in science. The
book is enriched with numerous good illustrations, and contains five m^ps.
Brinton, Daniel 0. — ^Were the Toltecs an Historic Nationality ? Philadelphia,
Maccalla & Co., 1887 : 8vo., pp. 15. [Presented by the Author.]
Dr. Brinton maintains that the Toltecs are a myth.
Buelna, Eiutaqnio. — ^Pereggrinacion de los Aztecas y nombres Geograficos
Indigenes de Sinaloa. Mexico, 1887 : sm. 8vo., pp. 140. [Presented by the
Mexican Minister.]
QTew York and Pennsylvania Bonndary.]— Report of the Regents' Boundary
Commission upon the New York and Pennsylvania Boundary, with the final
report of Major H. W. Clarke, g.e.. Surveyor for the Commission. Illustrated
with numerous maps and sketches. Albany, Weed, Parsons & Co., 1886 : 8vo.,
pp. 490.
[United States.] — Sixth Annual Report of the United States Geological Survey to
the Secretary of the Interior, 1884-5. Washington, 1885 : imp. 870., pp. xxix.
and 670. [Presented by the Director.]
Although this volume is dated 1885, it has only been quite recently issued.
As usual with these reports, it abounds with the most beautiful illustrations
and maps, many of which are quite as valuable for geographical as for geological
purposes. The area surveyed and mapped during the year embraced in the
Keport, was 57,508 square miles, including Massachusetts, New Jersey, Appal-
achian region, Missouri-E^ansas, Texas, Plateau region, Yellowstone Park,
Northern California. In connection with the proposed new topographical
survey of the States, the Director gives briefly tl^e result of his investigations
and experiments during four years, on methods of surveying and cartographic
systems. The area of the States is so great, he points out, that economy is of
prime importance. While the proposed map will be constructed primarily as a
basis for geological work, the Director points out that it may be used for a great
variety of purposes ; that since the need for a topographical map is perennial,
it should, once for all, be so constructed that the expense of frequenV surveys
shall be avoided. The map should be so simple that it may he used by all
people of intelligence. The trigonometric work will only be suflSciently refined
for map-making purposes. The hypsometric work is based on the railway
levels of the country, which have be^ established with reasonable accuracy, and
which form a regular network. The plan for the map contemplates sheets on
three different scales, suited to the requirements of the various sections of the
country, viz., 1 : 62,500, 1 : 125,000, and 1 : 250,000. The map is constructed
in contours with vertical intervals of 10, 20, 60, 100 and 200 feet, varying with
the scale of the map, and the magnitude of relief features. The map is to be
engraved in sheets, of which the limit is to be the square degree. There are
two sheets in the Report showing the various kinds of lettering to be used in the
map, and the conventional signs which have been adopted for the various
features, and which seem all clear and appropriate. Among the papers which
accompany the Report, and which occupy the bulk of the volume, are several
of special interest to the geographical student Among them are Captain
3 I 2
783
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
Diitton^if accuiuit of Ms survey of Mfiint Trt>l>r nod the Ziiiii rkt<?au id Xew
Mexico; Miifisre. Chaml)erlain and Salisbury's preiimiuary j>a|x!ron the driftles*
urea of the Upper Mi8»issji[)pi Valley ; and Professor N* S. Slmler b paper on the
^eu'Cikabt Swamps of the Eastern United States. Professor Shaler niAmtain^
that tlie development of the shore swamps of New England ii* intimately
connected with the Glacial history of the district dnrinjx the last Ice period* He
therefore prefaces his account of these ewamps with a hrief statement concern*
ing ihe effects of glacial action oa New Kuglarul terrirory. Cijptiiin Dutton, ia
hiB highly interesting paj^cr on the Zurii Plateau, points ont that it is a
mistake to infer from its naaie that it is a smooth and level region ; it is one of
the ru^gedeet portions of the West. The oNiacles to travel artj much greater
than in the wilder parts of Colorado; but instead of monntains with sloping
flanks^ wo find innumerable clifla, often of great altitude and length, stretching
ncross our jiwthway, or vanishing on either hand into the dim distance. For
many leagues on either side of the Colorado river, the country h cut by
numberlefis tortuous cafions, such as are never seen elsewhere. They arc
many hundreds of feet in depths scores of miles in length, hut their walls
are precipitous in the extreme. While the illust rat ions are heautilully executed
they are, we believe, absolutely true to nature, having been photographed on
to the wood.
OCEA!aA.
FinBcb, [DrJ 0.— IJbcr Naturprodukte dtr Wefltlicben Siidsee, besonders der
Deutscben Schutzgebiete. Berlin, Verkg des Deutschen Kolonialvereinsj 1887 ;
8vo., pp. 23.
Guppy^ H. Bi — The Solomon Islands and their Natives, Swan Sonnenschein &Co.^
1887 : 8vo., pp. xvi and 384. Price IL 58. [Presented by the Publishers.]
The Solomon Islands : their Geology, General Features, and Suitability for
Coloniaatiou. Same Publishera ; Bvo., pp* viL and 152. Price lOf. 6c?. [Presented
by the Publishers.]
Theae two volumes form one work, and should not have been divided*
Mr. Guppy's nflme will be recognised as a frequect contributor to scientific
journalj* during the past few yearu, writtun while in hie cruise to the North Pacific
as a naval Hurgt^on on hoard the Lark. Mr. Guppy was appointed to his ship in
1881, partly ou account of his natural history tastes. Ho look every oppor-
tunity during M& long cruise of addiug to the store of scientific knowledge^
though we rt- gret to learu that he hod to uudertake all his researclies at his own
e3ti>eu.se, ou the slender pay of a naval Murgeon. The results, so far as the Solo-
mon Islands are conoerfted, are contained iu these two volumeSj which deserve to
rank with the beat of the class to which they belong. He made himself quit©
at home in the islands, was received as a friend by the inhabitants, and had
excejjtioniil opportunities for acfjuiring detailed and accurate information. The
first and larger volume dealti with the anthropology, natural history, botany,
and meteorology of the group, while the second volume is conccrocd mainly with
the geology. Mr. Guppy does not adhere to any chronological narrative in
describing the results of his observationn. In his introductory chapter he gives
a very graphic account of bush-walking in these islands, and the diflicultits of
explormg theiu thoroughly from this cause ; difSculties, however, which he over-
came with success. One half of the Qrst volume is devoted to the ethnology of
the i^landM, and treats of the natives in every jxis^ible as|iect. As it records
mainly the retailta of his owu very csireful obsLTvations, it is a viduable original
contribution to a subject of much impirtauce, hmdes being interesting rwidiog.
Mr. Guppy has done a great service to tlte history of discovery in traoalaliog
and aimotatiiig the Journal of Gatlego, to which so romantic an interest is
attached. This forms one chaptiT of the first volutue, which \s follows.! by
another chapkr recounting the strange story of the diiiUippearanoe of the islands
from civilised ken for twoceuturies. To this chapter ihere is a useful geographical
appendix. The remaining chapters of the volume dial wiih the natural history
and the climate of the iiiUads, the latter being pretty much what other tropical
NEW GEOORAPHrCAL PUBUCATIONS.
783
* fjtimates are* The second Tolume is^ in ita wsiy, quite erjual in importance to
the fi rat. It dejals with the ^eoloj^y of the group, and that in a very thorough
manoer. Wbeo he l>ei,'aii work m this direction, io 1&82, Mr. Gnppy was
influeaoed by the considemtioQ that, sinco scarcely anything was known of the
geological character of thia large archipelagos of the Western Pacific, a knowledge
of one group of ialanda might l>o in some naeasure extended to others. From this
point of view the value of Mr; Guppy'sohflervationa h evident. They have a special
intoi^st in the fact that he maintains from his own investigations that Mr, John
Murray's theory of coral reefs is ranch more couBisteot with the facts than Darwin*a.
In the first volume Mr. Gu^ipy has some observations on the distribution of ocean
'depths in and around the Solomon group which are worth notin;];. After
pointing out that the islands tall naturally into two frrcnt groups, tliose mainly
volcanic and those mainly calcareous, and that the smaller volcanic islands divide
into two class<?s— (1) Those partly composed of modern, and partly of ancient
and often highly cryitalline rocka ; (2) those composed entirety or mainly of
recently erupted rocks, some times exhibiting signs of activity — Mr. Onppy goes
on to say that the large islands are often separated from each other by depths
nf several hundred fatlionas. 8t. Christoval, for instance, is scpanitM from the
neighbouring islands of Guadalcanar and Blalnita by straits in which casts of
2t3G fathoms fail to reach the bottom. On the other hand, the same 100-fathom
line includes both Bougainville and ChoiseuL It would appear, however, that
depths of 400 fathoms commonly occur between the islands of the Solomon
grou|3. Although the soundings hitherto made in this portion of the Western
Pacihc go to show that this archipelago, together with New Ireland and New
Britain, are included within the same lOO-fathom line, which extends as a link
from the adjacent borders of New Guinea, we can scarcely urge the fact,
Mr. Gappy states, as evidence of a former land connection, seeing that one of
the most interesting features in the geological history of the region is that of the
enormous elevation which these islands have expenence<l in recent and probably
Bub-recent limes, Mr. Guppy arrived at the conclusion that there had been a
recent upheaval of at least 1500 feet, while the character of the deijosita,
according to Mr. Murray, indicate a far more extensive upheaval. Mr, H. B.
Brady, indeed, states that the foraminifera of some of the Trensury Island rocks
indicate depths of probably 1500 to 2000 fathoms. The volumes contain many
illustrations and maps of some of the islauds.
GENERAL,
Blackie, C. — Geographical Etymology. A Dictionary of Place -Names, with
an iDtroduction by John Stuart Black ie, London, John Murray : 8vo., pp. xxxix.
and 243. Price Is. [Presented by the Publisher*]
This carefully compiled dictionary ought to be of much service to teachers
of geography who desire to add interest and thoronghnesa to their teaching. It
is not 80 much a dictionary of place-names in the ordinary sense, as of the
elements which go to the composition of such names iu various parts of the
world,
Trazer, J. 0, — Totem ism. Edinburgh, A. & C Black, IS 87 : 8vo., pp. viii. and
dn. Price 3«. 6i< [Presented by the Publisher.]
The basis of this little vtjlume, Mr, Frazer tells us, was the collection of
data for the article on the subject in the * Encyclopjedia Britannica.* In that
article he could only use a selection of the great amount of material which he
had collected. The subject of lotemisin is one which has the most intimate
relations 'ftith the history of the development of society, and, therefore, Mr,
Fra^er has done excellent service in putting his carefully collected notes into
accessible form, and accompanying them with the most copious references.
QambillO, Giiaseppe'— Delia Poiwlaritjl e Diffuslono degli Studi Geogmfici.
Pensieri c Suggtjrimcnti ad Uso di chi Insegoa e di chi Impara Geografia.
Palermo, 1887 : 8vo.p pp, 100. [Presented by the Author.]
Signor Gambino is Professor of Geography at the Technical Institute of
Palermo. In this brochure he gives some useful hints as to the teaching of
78* i*EW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBLICATIONS.
elementarj geogi'apliy, and the means of populariBiug the subject. He describes
a Coamograph of his own itivention, intended to demonstrate tlie relations
which subsist between rhe sun and tlie earth, A specimeo of the Cosmograph
Professor Gambioo has presented to the Society's educatioDal collection.
Ho worth, Heiiry H. [ll*Fi]^The Mammoth and the Flood ; An attempt to
confront the Theory of Uniformity with the Facta of Kecent Geology. LondoD,
Sampson Low & Co., 1887 : 8vo.> pp. ixxiL and 464. Price l&s, [Preseiited
by the Publisher.]
As may be inferred from the ti lie-page, Mr. Ho worth's evident purpose in
this massive volume is to prove that cataclysmic action has had much to do
with the developnieDt of tlie globe. ITie special point around which he pUes i
his evidence is his contention for a univerBal dehige^ which, among other thingB,
must have suddenly overwhelmed the Siberian mammoths and buried them deep
in the resulting nmd. It k of course perfectly legitimate to assail any scientific
theory ; and we know that there are etill several people who maintain that the
doctrine of (he rotumilty of the earth and the Kevv Ionian system of aatronomy
are "frauds/ At the tame Lime it maybe adn.itted that Mr. Howorth has
done service by runiiing a tilt against uuiformitariaiiismi as it may compel
geologists to rc^confcider the evidence in the light of the knowledge that has been
accumulated since LyelFs days. iiniforniitarianB need have no fear of the
lesult of the process. In the meantime it might be well to define precisely
what is meant by *' uniformitarianism,** about wirich very erroneous conceptions '
are prevalent. The grtaf value of Mr. Howortli's work, in our estimate, is the
vast store of facta which he has accumulated, not only relaling to the mammoth
and Siberia, but to the remains of great aniojals in all parta of the world, and
to the traditions of a great flood which are prevalent everywhere. From this
point of view even geogmphers may £nd a good deal in the volume that will
prove suggestive.
Marcel, 0, — Note sur une Carte Catalane de Dnlceri ant^rieure k TAtlaa Cstalsii
de 1375, Lue i la Socii^te de G^graphie de Paris dans sa stance du 7 Janvier,
1887. Paris, Bociete de Geographie, 1887: 8vo., pp. 12. [Presented by the
Author.]
Palgraire* W* Gifford. — ^Ulyssea : or Scenes and Studies in many Lands.
London, MBcmillan ilt Co.> 1887 ; 8vo., pp. 385. Price 12a. Gd. [Presented by the
Publisher.]
Mr. Palgrave is well entitled to adopt as a motto for this volume of varied
contents Hunice's oflen-quoled line **Qui mores hominum multomm vidit,
et urbea." He leads us here from Anatolia and Georgia to Egypt, ncross i
the Atkntic to the We^t Indies, and thence across the Pacitic to the Philip-
pines. Under the heading of Phra-Bat we have a disquisition on Buddhism and
other religions ; then, aittr a vitsit to Hong Kong and Japan, we once more croes
to America to follow Mr, Pal grave from Montevideo to Paraguay, the whole
being rounded off with "Alka mat's Love," a stirring story of Nejd. The
volume, as might be expected, is entertaining reading, but at the same time
there ia much in it of geographical interest. Frc»m this point of view, the "
paper on Turkii^h Georgia^ and even that en Upper Ugypt and Thebes, are well
worth reading. The chapter entitled "West Indian Memori^" describes
Mr. Pal grave's visit to the Boiling Lake of Dominica ; another chapter deals
with MsJay life in the Philippine* ; others, with Hong Kong, Kioto^and the
journey from Montevideo to Paraguay, already referred to.
[Eussia.]— Handbook for Travellers in Russia, Poland, and Finland^ including the
Crimea, Caucasus, Siberia, and Central Asia. 4th edition, London, John Murray,
1888: 8vo,, pp. viii. and 571. Price 18».
A new edition of Mr, Murray's * Eussia ' was much wanted. Mr. F. MicheU
has evidently taken great pains to bring the book up to date, and for the
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL PUBUCATIONS. 786
more frequented routes, his guidance will no doubt be found trustworthy.
The addition of special maps of the Crimea, and Caucasus, and Siberia, would
have improved the book. The sections dealing with Finland and the
Caucasus have been enlarged. The tendency of the time in the matter of
guide-books is towards small handy volumes, dealing thoroughly with a
particular and limited district — and to this the most conservative editors will
sooner or later have to bow. In the case of the Caucasus, it would perhaps be
premature to publish a special guide. Yet its incorporation in a volume which
surveys mankind from Warsaw to Yladivostock is unfavourable to any adequate
treatment. There are some routes which surely required mention, even in
the very restricted space that could be available in this volume. Attention
might have been more prominently called to the fact that the new railroad to
Novorossisk will serve (and was already used this year by visitors to the Cau-
casian Baths) as part of a circular tour of the country in conjunction with the
Dariel, the Trans-Caucasian Railway and the Black Sea steamers. Some
routes across the western mountains — notably the Mamisson Pass — might be
inserted. It is at last being made passable for carriages. Excursions to
Suanetia and the base of Elbruz are now easy to horsemen, and a few hints
as to how to make them would be useful. The existence of the great central
group of peaks and glaciers midway between Kazbek and Elbruz should be
indicated by more than a single allusion to one of its summits. There is an
excellent hotel (U. de France) at Yladikafkaz, and at the post-stations on the
Dariel road good food and fair beds are procurable.
Throughout the section it appears to be often assumed that the traveller will
be unable to ride, and such a restriction of course makes any visit to the Caucasus
sadly incomplete. The works cf Dr. von'Kadde should be among those recom-
mended to travellers, and a suggestion that his advice should be sought at Tiflis,
where he resides as Director of the Museum, might have been of assistance to
travellers desirous of seeing what cannot be seen from the post-roads — the
natural beauties of the Caucasus.
Thompson, Charles M. — Manual of the Sextant, containing Instructions for its
Use in determining Time, Latitude and Longitude, and the Variation of Compass.
London, John Bumpus, 1887: 8vo., pp. xiii. and 110, [Presented by the
Author.]
In the preface the author states that his aim in publishing this work is to
enable any person, even though he be entirely unacquainted with astronomical
observations, to obtain reliable determinations of latitude, longitude, &c. ; and by
the concise manner in which he explains the construction and use of the sextant,
as well as by the examples of the manner in which the desired results are to bo
computed, he has certainly done much to clear away difficulties, and attain the
end he has in view. It is, however, a fact that, without some instruction, there
are but few persons who have become competent observers and computers, the
exceptions generally being those who have had previous experience in the use of
other surveying instruments, and the advantage of a mathematical education.
There is one remark of Mr. Thompson's, with regard to the late Captain
George's artificial horizon, which we cannot pass unnoticed. The author says
that he has known instances of errors of as much as 7' 33" in latitude, caused
by carelessly floating the glass disc on the mercury. This would supix)8e an
error in the double altitude of no less than 15' 6", which, if it existed, would at
once lead to the rejection by all practical observers of this form of artificial
horizon ; but that such errors ever exist is entirely contrary to our experience,
after having used this instrument constantly for the past twelve years, in prefer-
ence to the older form of rooted horizon, which Mr. Thompson recommends as
being the more reliable form.
The arranjijement of examples, &c., is very much the same as that followed
in the Society's * flints to Travellers,' and the author may be congratulated on
having produced a book which on the whole is likely to be of service to those
travellers who will take the trouble to read carefully, and follow the directions
it contains. — J, C.
786
NEW MAPS.
Veth, F, J. — ^Ontdekkers en ODikrzoekers ; zevental levetisschetseii, ter tweede
verbcterde en vermeerderde uitgave bijeeDveraameld, door P. J. Yeth, Leiden,
E, J. Brill, 1B84 : 8vo., pp» xi, and 343. [Preseotcd by the Author.]
CoDsists of a series of biographical notices of — J, Philippus Baldaens.
II, Samuel van de Piitte. IIL Caspar George Carl Reinwardt* IV- Jan
Frederik Gerrit BrnmuDd. V. Taco Hoorda. VL Wolter Robert van Hoe^ell.
YIL Jan Karel Jakob de Jotjge.
Hendrik Adriann van Beede tot Drakeiit«?iD. 8vo. [1887], pp. 101. [Pre-
sented by tlie Author.]
Wilson, [Col. Sir] C. W.— Extrdcta from a Paper on the Utilisation of the Ordnance
Survey MapH, with special Tefurence to Local Administration and the Sale and
Transfer of Land, read at tht- Meeting of the Britii^h Association at Manchester,
0th Sfptember, 1687, by Col. Sir 0. \V. Wilson, k»c.d., k.c.m.g., f.r.s., b«k..
Director of the Ordnance Survey, 8vo., pp. 16. i
NEW MAPS.
(By J. Coles, Map Curator rms,^
WORLD,
Johnston^ W. & A. K-— Commercial Chart of the" World on Mercator's Projec-
tion from the litest and best aulhoritiea, containinj^ the poaition of every place of
commercial importance, showing the princi|jal currents of the ocean and the chief
steam-pncket routes. With enlargetl maps of Central Europe, the principal
British PossesaiDns, the Suez Canai and Nile Delta, Isthmus of Panama, &c.
Equatorial scale 5*^ to an inch, 4 sheets. Ediobcrgh and Loodon, W. Sc A. K,
Johns^tou, 1887,
It is now two years since the last edition of this excellent map was
publbbedj and in the present issue necessary corrections have lieen made%
These, however, are but few in number, aa great care had been taken in the
protlucliou of the previous issue. Nearly every place of commercial importance
has been laid dowui atid the names of insignificant jilacea which are m often
crowded into maps ot this de8cri[Hion, have been wisely omitted For the pur-
ix)ses of general refereuce in the office or library this Clmrt of the World is
quite equal to any published in England. It shows all means of commuDica-
tion by rail, steamer^ and teltgraphj the directions of ocean currents, the
minimum depth of water on sandbanks, the depth of the sea in various jxwi-
tionsj the distances in nautical miles of the routes followed by mail steamers,
and much other matter of interest. Enlarged maps of Central Europe, the
principal British Possessions, the Suez Canal and Nile Delta, and the Isthmus
of Panama, are al^ given.
EUROPE.
Beutschen in Europa^ — Ubersichtskarte der Verhreitnng der — , fiir den
deutschen Schulverein zusammengestellt von H. Kiepert. Berlin, Dietricb
Reimer, 1887, Scale 1 : 3,CX)0,000 or 41' G geographical miles to an inch. Price
25. (Dulau.)
Enflftlld and Wales.— Popular Map of -^-^ , 1887. Scale 1 : 700,000 or 9*5 geo-
graphical miles to an inch. Mason & Payne, London, E.C. Price 10*. Gd,
In this map all the mil ways and main roads have been carefully laid down,
and the popuUtion of towns which in 1881 excetdetl 5000, and from that number
to 100,000 or above, are indicated in four series, by means of coloured lines
drawn under the names of the places. In additiun to this the boundary of the
Metropolitan Board of Worka is kid down, and a table is given, comi>iled from
NEW MAPS.
787
tbe cecsuB of 1881, showing the populatiotis, areas, gross rental, poor-rate, and
number of paupers in each county of England and Wales. The map is clearly
drawD, and the lettering is distinct.
Hlirg- — TouriB ten -K arte vom oberen Mtirg- tind Renchthalgebiet, 1 ; 5O,0CK} or
1*4 iocbea to a geographical mile. Yon A* Wiilde. Keutlingen, Price 2s,
{Dulau,)
ScaEdmaviea.— Politiscbc Wantlkarte von . Scale 1 : 1,500,000 or 20*4 geo-
graphical miles 10 an inch. Richard Kiepert'a Sclml-Wand-Atlas der Liiuder
Euroj^'a. AchtzehnteLieferung. BerliBi Dietrich Reimer, 1887. Price 9*. {Dulaa.)
Sadost-Europa— Karte von , die Staaten der Balkan-Hal binsel. sammt Theilen
Y. OBterreich-Urjgam bis Budapest u. Wien und den iibrigen angrenzeuden
Landern. Red! girt u. beschrieben v. A. Steinhauser, k, k. Regiorangsratk
Yerlag von Artaria und Comp. in Wien, 1887. Scale 1 : 2,000,000 or 27 geo
grapfaical miles to an inch. Price 4s. 6i/. (^Dtilau.)
OBDNANOE SUBVEY MAPS.
PubtJc&tloiu iMiifld darlDg the moD&fa of Octobsr ISBT,
l-lncll — General SUpt i—
EafiLAKto A!TP Walw: New SerlM. Sbwl 121 C«iUhie), If. Scjotlato: 102 (bllU), 119 (wtUne)
If. 9J. tacli. IKELASTD : MO (hlUs), U.
S-lnoli — County Mftpa :^^
^ai^mti ANi> WALif*r BrecknoolMhlre : 13 NE, u S,W^ 23 at:, ao N.W.; U, wch,
OanLbrldffBBliire : u N.W.. ^» S.\\\ 24 S.K.. 29 N.K., ao S,E., 32 S.W., S,E., a^i S,W„ 4 i S.fi,
m S.W.; II, CAcb. Caidiguoeliire : i N.W., 43 N.fcl; is. eacii. Carmarthenflhire:
sN.E.S.K..* N, u ., F.\\\, 10 N.K.. 1 1 S.W^39 S>1. 40 N.w.,aw.,4» N.W. ; Ueacli. Cornwall :
fis N.W.J 1*. Berbyahire a:i N.W. ; i#. Bevonshlre : T8 N.K., S.K.. lou N.W., lis N,E. j
IrcAch. Dorsetshire : H NE., 34 K.H, S.K,. 3S N.W., aW, 42 N.W.. N.E., 43 N.W,. N.K,
44N.VV.J II. eicli, Herefordshire: 40 S.E., 42 .s.w,, 43 N.H'„ sx.,u S.H,45 N.E.. S.W.,
SE.» 4IS N.W, 4T aw.. &0 N.E. 61 N,W., N.E,-. I*, each. Himtin^donahire: C NW.,
10 N.W-. S.W.» SE.. II N.VV., 14 N.W,, aW./ai'L, 16 N.W,. 17 SAV., SJ!: , IS N.W., aE.. 2t N.W,
8.W.. aE., 22 N.E-, S.W.. b.ll, 25 aw,. S K., a: N.E,. aE. j n. tach. Lei cestera hire : 42 N.E.
1*. Lincolnshire: 30 N,W, N,E., S,W„ aE., 41 S.W., &5 N,W.. aW., &4 N.E, aW..aE..
2i} s,w., s.h' 74 N.VV., N,E., aR. 7» N.W.. N.E-, aE, 87 N w., aw.,an, JK» N.W.. 104 aw,,
123 aE.. 134 N.E., 13A N.W^ N.R,aE„ 136 N.E„ aW.. aE., 138 N.E . 139 S.W.. N.E.. S K. 140 N.W.,
N.E.* 141 N.W.. 142 aw., 144 N.E.. 147 aw.. 1*9 N,E. ; I*, e*cb. Merionethshire : 16 aE..
29 N-W^ 3* N.E.. 45 N.E.. aE. 46 K.W,, N.E^ aE^ AH N.W.| li. e*tli, Norfolk: e2 aW.»
«7 aK ; u. e*cii. Shropshire - 33 n:e^ 3& N.W.. aE.. 36 N.W., 40 N.w , 42 5.K, aw.. aE.,
44 ax, ; U- ejich. Somersetshire : 3& S ^l, 59 S.E., eo N.E., «i N.W.^ aw, ; u. tvh.
Stalfordahire : a S.W.. 9 s.w . 25 X.E., 33 N.W., 60 aE. ; I*, each- SnlToik: la aW.,
13 N.W., 67 N.W., N,K., ea N.W., aE., 70 .aw,. 77 N.W., N.E-, aw„ aE.. 78 N.W., ^w„ ^ aw,.
RH N.B.; If. each. Warwickshire: 4 aE , conialnlug Sulum Col.lfleU; lo S.W.. ii N.E.,
33 S.W.. coDiAinlDg Warwick ; I*, ctcb. Wiltshire : 66. canUhitng Sallabury. 2#. 8<1.
St^-inoh— P>f^ Mftpii :—
EvoLAND AiTD Walej: Breokmockshire : XXVI. t. ii, 12, 3«« e«cb. C&nLbridffeshire :
XL 3, U, 12. l«. XXIH 3. 10, U. XXX VI. 5,6. 4#. €»cb ; XXXIX. 1,3*.; XL. «, 4,. ; ,?L. U, 3f,;
XtVI. &.4J.; XLVL », 11, 13. i(t, Lllf. 2,3« eacti; L[IL4,4j. ; LllL&.3t.; Llll. », H, 4«. eAcb.
Oai^graiLshire : Vll. r. 1 6, 3j. etch. Carmarthenshire : X X VL fi, 3r. Devoiishlre :
CXIV, 3* 11, », ir e«cii; CXIX. US. CXXV. 1.3*. Ciidu CJC.W. 2,4/r.; CXXV. fi.CXXVL 7,3*.«»ch;
Are* Book: r^t^rtary, it. Gd. Porsetsbire : L l&, l€, II L i. <«. e«cb ; HL 11, 3«. ; TIL tA, -11.;
la, lit, IV. «, 11, 3j eacij. Herefordshire: MIL iq, XXVJIL 12, XXXI. 4. 7. 11, XXXlLt,
XXXIII. 10, XXX VL s, 3*. each, Leicestershire : XLVJ IL 4. *>. ; XLVIiL e, ii,ifi, 3*. t«ch;
Area Hooka Karkliy, Nfwioii Liufura, I* «<»cli. Llnoolnahire : VIL n, \o, 13. VIII. ft, 13, Xll.
1,3*. ejwh; XIL 3. 4t. ; XIL 4, 6. 3j, each; XV'IIL 1, 6i. ; LlV. 4, &. 6, 10, LXXn.2,6, LXXVll.
e, 12, 34. each. Norfblk : XXL 12, le, 3* each ; LVl 3. 4. 6, J 1, 4#. emcji 1 LXVL 16.»<.; LXVIII.
3, 4f.; LXXVIJL 11 and 12 (oq one). LXXXL lu, &i.p«cb; XCL li>, 14.4«.(Mcfa. Korth&S2pton-
shire: XLV. U, 3*. Nottinarhamshire : Area R-jk*: KjikrlM* Huckerton. Kelham, EeraalU
KnecMll, Maplebeck. t». each, Somersetshire : XX X, 9. 3f . ; X XX, 1 3, 4i. ; LXXli. t«. «#. set. ;
LXXIt 12. 64.; LXX.XI. 13,LXXXV11L 6. 4«. e^icb; XCJLn.Uj. StafTordahire : Are«Buok:
TStteoIiall. U. ftd. Suffolk: I4. ii, m,; IL U, XXX. 16, bi. eActi; X.XXL 6. 4i, AreABookar
OockOeld, St Maiy. NK^^vmorkeL. If, eacb. Warwickshire : X VJIL 11, 15, XX VIL 7. ».34.««cti;
XXVli. 9, 4f.; XWIL Hi, 13,XXVIL 14, 15. .\XX1L 5, St.tAchi XXXIL 0, ly, 4f. eachi XXXIL
lU 12, 16. 3*, eacb ; XXXl V, 3, 4«. 5 XXXI V. S, 7. 12, 3f. each ; XXXI V. Ih, 4f. ; XXXIV* Id, XLV,
11, 3*, each ; XLV. lfi» u. Wiltshire : XXVIIL e. L, 16. LL 7. 10, LVIL 14, LVlll. 2, 5, fl, 9,
10, LJX. % 6, LXUL 1, 4, 8, 3«. each. Worcestershire: Ar(^4 Iktok^: Bftdsey, Brttfortija,
tTbiirch Iluneyboumc. If, «acb ; CbitueJ, 1/. <Ui.* Cliru>ij uiwn-Terae. Daylesfunl, Gnut Witley,
OMberrow, s»be iilej V^atab,, WlchcnfurJ^ li. cjacb.
Town Plana— io-f«!t Bcale i—
KsQtAKU Aifi> Walw : llridr»at<?r. L. 10, »; U 11. 1. 6, 7, 8. 12, 13, 11. 18, 02, 23; I* 14. 4, L. 16,
3. 12, 2f. each, T4!icc»i<*r, XXX. 10, 19. 22; XXXL 14. T. «. 9, 11, 12, 13, I4.1*.eacb. ^Jaali,
XVf. 1, 14, IS, 24, 2j. enuch, fdinoaton, XI. 9. ?. ^> 9, 12. 13, 14, 18, 31. etcli. WsfmlDSter, LL S.
T, 21, Wan*ick, XXXHL I3» 10 j XXX 111. 14, 1,2*.
(.Stanford^ Agent}
788
NEW MAPS.
ASIA.
Aflien.— Wandkarte von . Scale 1 : 6,700,000 or 90*4 geographical miles to
au iDcb. PhyaikAliscIie Atit^gabe voa Karl Bamberg. 16 sbeete. Bedlo, Clinx.
Price lbs, {Dulau,)
AFRICA.
AbysaiBia, &c. — Rure (AltipiaBi), Habab, Aagbedd, Bogoe ed Abiasima Setten-
triouale. Carta Provvisoria coatrutta dal Cap. Manfredo Camperio e disegnata dall*
lug. U, Ugolini seoondo le ultime carte pubblicate delle ** Geogr*"* Mitteiluugen **
di Gotha ed i rilievi degli S. M'* logkBe ed Italiano ed altri dati originali, £>et-
tembre 1887, Scale 1 : 1,000,000 €r 13-6 geograpbical miles to an iiicb, latit.
Cartog. Ital L. Kdia, Roma. {Duiau.)
Afrika.— Neue Handkarte voq , Scale 1 : 30,000,000 or 411 geograpbical
miles to an inch, Mit vier Karfcone: Eamerun, Siid-Afrika, Nillander, Ost-
Afrika. H. Kiepert's Klciaer Hand-Atlas, No. 13, Gezeiclinet von Richard
Kiei)ert, Berlin, D, Reimer, Price 1^. {Duluu.) I
8pBcial*Karte xtm im MaasBtiib von 1 : 4,000,000 or 55 '5 geograpliical
milea to an iocb. (10 Blatt.) Entworfen von Hermann Habonicbt, bearbeitet
Ton demselbcn, Bnmo Domann und Dr. Richard Ltiddecke. Zweite Auflage.
IV. Lieferung. Inbiilt i J^sektioii Central-Sudan (5) nebst Bemerkungen von H.
Habeniclit. t^ektion Dekgoa-Bai (10) nebst Beuaerkungen von Dr. R. Ltiddecke. '
V. (Scblu«s-) Lieterung, Inhalt : Sektioa West-Sahara (1) nebst Bemerkungen
VOQ B, Domann. Sektion Agypten (3) nebat Beraerkungen von H. Habenicht.
Gotha, Justus Perthes, 1887. Price 3«. each part. {Duluu,}
With the issue of thcae tiro numbers (he second edilion of Ibia map is com-
pleted. Among the most important corrections and alterations which have
taken place are the following: — ^On sheet 1 the western boundary of Algeria,
L which was ahow^n as definitely fixed on the previous edition, is now marked as
I approximate only, the bouodary of Morocco is extended farther south, new I
I steamer lines are laid down, and the routes in the Sahara have been in some |
I instances changed, 1 he interior boundary of the Fr<:-nch possessions is sbown, |
I and more detail in the Western Sahara given. On sheet 5 the British Niger
I Company's territory is shown as extendiug farther up the river Binn^; altera-
1 tioDs have also been made in the German boundaries in the Cameroon
I district. The surveys of M. G, de Brazza and Mr* Grenfell are laid down, Dr.
I Junker's work is shown, and several corrections have been made in the r^on
north of the Congo. Two additional inset mapi of Reunion and Mauntius
are given on sheet 10, and new work is shown south of the ZambesL The
bonudaries of the Xew Repnblic are given, and those of Zulu-Land have been
altered.
The above are only some of the numerous corrections which have been made,
and the map as it now appears is without doubt the best general map of Africa ^
that has ever been published. J
AMERICA.
Canada* — Map of the Dominion of , corrected to January 188T. Scale
1 ; 6,200,000 or 85 geograpbical miles to an inch. Department of the Interior*
E. Deville, Surveyor General, Domioion Lands Lithographic Office, Ottawa-
United States.— Map of the Westero • Scale 1:2,900,000 or 39' 7 geo-
graphical miles to an inch. Mason Sr Payne, London, E.G., 1&87, Price 10«. 6t/.
This map Includes parts of Alabama, lodiana, Michigan, and all the States
and territories west of them. The railways appear to have been laid down with
care, and all county bcjundaries are given*
NEW MAPS. 789
GHABTS.
ITnited States Charts* — No. 1016. West Coast of Central America. San Juan
del Sur to Judas Point, 1887. — Pilot Chart of the North Atlantic Ocean, November
1887. U.S. Hydrographic OfiBoe, Washington, D.O. Commander J. R. Bartlett,
n.8.N., Hydrographer to the Bureau of Navigation.
ATLASES.
Bengal, Bay of — Charts of the , and adjacent sea north of the Equator,
showing the Mean Pressure, Winds and Currents, in each month of the year.
Published by order of His Excellency the Viceroy and Governor-General of India
in Council by the Meteorological Department of the Government of India.
This atlas contains a set of charts, exhibiting the meteorological conditions
in the Bay of Bengal for every month in the year. The data from which they
have been compiled are the marine observations recorded over the Bay of Bengal
between the years 1856 and 1878, which were supplied by the London Meteoro-
logical Office to the Meteorological Department of India, and were prepared for
Sublication by Mr. W. L. Dallas. The methods adopted by the London
leteorological Office in discussing corresponding data for the seas adjacent to
the Cape of Good Hope, have in general been followed in these charts, the dis-
tribution of pressure has, however, in this atlas been shown by isobars, instead
of curves of '* relative frequency ** as given on the Cape charts, and the observa-
tions have been corrected to the mean of the day. The direction and frequency
of the winds are shown by wind-roses, Roman figures indicate the percentage of
gales, as compared with the total number of winds from all points of the
compass, the space to which each wind-rose refers is enclosed by thick rectangular
lines, and the number of observations on which the wind-rose is foimded is shown
by figures within the fiducial circle.
Small black arrows show the actual observations of those marine currents
which amounted to 16 miles and upwards in twenty-four hours. The arrows
indicate the directions in which the currents fiow, the length of each arrow
showing the rate of the movement, according to the scale given. A page of
explanatory and statistical Ittterpress accompanies each chart.
Charts of the , and adjacent sea north of the Equator, showing the
Specific Gravity, Temperature and Currents of the Sea Surface. Published by
order of His Excellency the Viceroy and Governor-General of India and Council,
by the Meteorological Department of the Government of India. Price 35. 4J.
This is a supplement to, and covers the same area as the series of barometric
wind and current charts. They are lour in number and represent : (1) The
mean specific gravity of the sea-water ; (2) The mean temperature of the sea-
surface ; (3) The general resultant direction of all current observations ; they
are divided into rectangular areas of two degrees of latitude, and two degrees of
longitude.
Oesterreich-TTng^am. — Physikalisch-Statistischcr Hand- Atlas von , in 24
Karten mit erlautemdem Text, unter Mitwirkung von Vincenz v. Haardt, Prof.
Dr. Anton Kerner Bitter v. Marilaun, Ministerial rath Dr. J. Lorenz Bitter v.
Liburnau, Dr. Franz Bitter v. Le Monnier, General-Major Carl Sonklar v. Instatten,
Prof. Dr. Franz Toula, herausgegeben von Dr. Josef Chavanne und ausgefuhrt in
Eduard Holzel's Geographischem Institute. VIII. Lieferung. Inhalt: Nr. 7.
Die Vertheilung der Hagelfalle (mit 3 Cartons zu Karte Nr. 18, 20, 23). Nr. 14.
Florenkarte. Nr. 176. Abgrenzung imd Eintheilung der Militar-Territorial-
Bezirke, nach dem Stande vom Januar 1883 (als Ergiinzung zu Karte Nr. 17
gratis). Nr. 19. Karte der Dichtigkeit der Bevolkerung. "Wien, Eduard Holzel,
1887. Price 7«. (Dulau.)
This is the concluding issue of the Austro-Hungarian Statistical and Physical
Hand Atlas. It contains seven maps and explanatory letterpress. On the
790
NEW MAPS.
first sheet four Bupplementary maps are given, Bhovving the numbers of townehipB
to the square mile, iJie fiistribution of swine, the frequency of bail-Btorms, and
the state of education ; rioni this latter it will be seen that a very large propor-
tion of the ixipiiltition ciin ucitlier road nor write. The next is a botanical map
of the Empire nn which is shown the diBtributiou of flur«. Tlie two remaining
maps have refi-rence to the military districts, and density of population*
Fem« — Nucvo Atlas Geo^afico del - — -. Dedicado A la JuventUil Perruana* Obra
poethuma del Dr. Mariano Felifje Pa2 Soldan, 1887. Lima, Libreria Franoesa
Cientifica J. GalUnd^ Calle de Falacio 24.
This atlas is the work of a Bon of that well-known geographer, the late
Sr. Dr, Don Mariano Felipe Paz Soldan, to whom we are indebted for the large
atlas of Peru, which prcviotiiily bns been the only reliable work to which
reference could be niflde by those who wished to enquire into the details of the
geography of many parts of the Republic. In the present atla« many corrections
and alterations will hi found, as the author has had at his dis|X)aal the results of
explorations and route surveys which did not exist wlieu his lather was engaged
in the production of his atlas, la addition to the maps of each department, a
general map of Peru, statifil:ics with reference to the railways, and a list of the
principal towns, &c,^ are given. There is much contained in this atlas which is
hi«5hly interesting, and it tbrnis a valuable addition to the Map Koom collection.
Statistical Atlas of Commercial Geograpliy.— The -, by E. J, Hastings.
W. & A. K. Johnston, Edinburgh and London.
This atlas contains a series of diflgirama illustrating the principal facts in
connection with tlie commerce of the United Kinj^dom and its def cadencies,
and also of other leading countrieR. The plan on which the diagrams are cun-
Btructed is at once simple and eflective. The approximate amonnt of exports,
imports, (fee, being represenied by sqiuirea, the value or quantity of each i^
stated on every sheet, and in this manner auy i>erj5on can see at a glance what
are the princijjal products and resources of each country, and will also be able to
form a very accurate estimate on the imfjortant question of supply and demand.
The statistica on wiiich the diagrams are based have been compiled by Miss
Hastings from Parliamentary and official returns. Those referring more imme-
diately to the United Kingilom are chiefly for the year 1886, but the mineral
statistics and those referring to the colonies and foreign countries have been
given for 1885, no returns on the subject being available for a later date.
The need of such an atlas as this has been much felt, and the conTenient
form in which it has been published will also greatly add to its value.
I
I
2am*y/cnmt. bA., n^LtmS^mmm
LV.V PORTO'S).
£ndli«h Miles
O WW M
'Wmt^^Mn^.
PiihH
»
}
( 791 )
INDEX.
provvisoria con-
Camperio (New
A.
Aarau (^graphical Society, * Jahrbuch *
of the, 121
A — k, The Pandit Krishna, jonmeys in
Tibet, 369
Ababdi tribe, 660
A-BassaDgo tribe, 295
AbduUa's village. 182
Abercroraby, Hon. Ralph. Weather: a
popular exposition of the nature of
weather changes from day to day (New
Publications), 719
Abessinien, t)ber8icht8karte der Beise-
ronten des Kapit&ns A. Oecchio nnd des
Ingenienrs G. Chiarini im sUdlichen
(New Maps), 64
Abyssinia, &c., Carta
strutta dul Cap. M.
Maps), 788
Abramof, M., 423
Abu Fandna, 665
Shia', Wadi, 680
Acclimatisation, on, by Dr. A. Oppler, 690
Address, Annual, on the Prog^^ess of Geo-
graphy, by General R. Strachey, 331
et seq.
Jubilee, to U.M. the Queen,
R.G.S.'s. 438
Admiralty Manual of Scientifio Enquiry
(New Publications), 651
Surveys, summary of, 345
Adria, Pliysikalische Untersuchungen in
der (New Publications), 709
^En:ean, An Autumn Cruise in the, by Mr.
Fitz-Patrick (New Publications), 323
Aeuckens, F., Plan der Insel Helgoland
(New Maps), 265
Afghan Boundary Commission, 574
Turkistan plain, 106
Afghane, IMimitation, N^gociations entre
la Russie et la Grande Bretagne 1872-
85 (New Publications), 649
Afghanistan, Captain Maitland's and
Captain Talbot's Journeys in, 102 et acq,
Africa, Die religiosen Verhiiltnisse von, by
Dr. A. Oppel (New Publications), 715
Durch Sud-west, by Dr. Hans Sohinz
(New Publications), 714
Quid Novi Ex, by G. Rohlfs (New
Publications), 261
Ontral, discovery of new lake in, 439
Africa, Central, EZxplorations in, by Dr.
Junker, 399 ^ seq,
East, Count Pfeil's Journeys in, 47
new boundaries of English
and German territories iu, 188
Recent Changes in the Map
of, 490
the boundaries of, 638
Meridional Portugneza, Carta da
(New Maps), 210
• Northern, Dr. T. Fischer s observa-
tions on changes of the coast line in,
242
South, and its Mission Fields, by
Rev. J. E. Carlyle (New Publications), 61
catalogue of printed books
and papers relating to : Part II. Climate
and Meteorology ; and altitudes above
eea-level of places in, by J. G. Gamble
(New Publications), 320
Original Map of, by Rev. A.
Merensky (New Maps), 328
•South -Western, Dr. StapflTs ex-
plorations in the Coast region, 511
Dr. Schinz's ex-
plorations iu, 243
summary of progress of explora-
tions in, 337 et seq.
Twenty-five Years in a Waggon in
the Gold Regions of, by A. A. Anderson
(New Publications). 779
West, Sketch of the Forestry of, by
A. Moloney (New Publications), 519
Central, Route von Paul Stau-
dinger imd Ernst Hartert von Loko am
Benue nach Kano, Sokoto, und Gandi
(New Maps), 211
African Traits, South, by Rev. J. Mackin
non (New Publications), 519
Tropics, Gn a Surf-bound Coast;
or Cable-laying in the, by A. P. Crouch
(New Publications), 780
Afrika, Aequatorialen Ost-, Yorliiufige
Skizze von Dr. G. A. Fischer's 3ter
Reise im (New Maps), 64
Geologische Skizze von, von Dr.
G. Gurich (New Maps), 656
Karte von, mit besondere BerQck-
sioht der deutschen Kolonieen (New
Maps), 64
— Neue Handkarte von (New Maps),
788
793
INDEX.
Afrika, Neue Karte yoti, nebat Mnd&gEfl-
kar, &c, (New Mups), 503
Ost-, Origitinlkui'te von Joachim
Graf Pfeirfl Kcweii in (New Mftpa), 64
- PolitiflcLe Oberaioht tod (New
Maps), 32S
Bpeciftl-Karte von (New Mem),
396, 528, 656, 788
Slid-, Die PortugieBiflclio Expedi-
tion quer durch, 1884 und 1885 (New
Mupa), 211
AfrikaX Ctntml-, VoIksstiimmQi by L-
Wolf (New Publications), 588
Afriqne, Im Tits en, by Jerome Becker
(New Publications)^ 713
^ Liate de Poeittnn^ GengniphiquoB
en, by H. Duveyrier (New Publicatious),
519
AgHftsiz Glocier, The Great» 270, 273
Agwaray-Gnaza river, Captain Fernan-
dez s explorations of t]ie, 581
Aiid river and hills, 595, 596, 604
Akka, Batnn, or Tikki Tikki dwarf tribes,
295, 407, «40
Akaii^bi Spbonoid moontains, Japan, 91
Akmoliiiiik district, enrvey* in the, 437
Aksu, city of, 750
Aksu oi»,ii, popnlation nf, 230
Ala-kul frulf, Liiko Balkash, 426 note, 427
Alaska, Mr* Sitoti-Kair*:* journey in^ 52
■ ■ Mnir Glacier of, "air. F. Wright's
obftervations on the, US
North, progroM of Lieutenftnt
Howard's journey acrofls, 308
— Blioroa and Alps of. by H. W,
Seton-Karr (New Publications), 460
■ TJie Alpine Regions of, by Lieu-
tenant H. W. i^eton-Karr, 269 et seq.
Alel© rivejT, or Wickham river, New Gui-
nea, 77
Al)jcrift and Toms. Handbook for Travel*
lera in, by Sir I^ambert Playfair (New
PubiioatioBis), 2Ul>
Algerian coast line. Dr. Fischer's obaerra-
lioTis OQ changed of the, 242
Algerie, Carte Topographique de V (New
Maps), 211,593
' et de l» TuniMe, Carte mnmle de
r, defldnfo par A. Cuenot (New Maps),
724
■ Qui S'en Va, by Dr. Bernard (N<iW
Publications), 649
Ali-Kobbo's zeriba, poaitinn of, SI 5
Alpen, Die, by Prof, Dr. F, Umlttnft(New
Publications), 712
— - Karbe der, von L. Weting (New
Slaps), 395
• und die Rieserfemer-Gnippe, Illufl-
trift4>r Ftihrer doreh dio Zillerthaler, by
H. Htrsa (New Publicatiyna), 711
Alpengebiete Oeaterreichs, Distanz- und
Eeiflekftrte der oeatlicbenj mit Sebutz-
hijtten-Beikurte nnd Hahcntabelle, bo
arbeitet von J. Meiiror (New Maps), 526
AlpH, Divisions of the, by Dr. August
Bokm (Now Publiaitioiia), 709
Altyn-tagb Mountains, 214
A made us. Lake, 695
A mat P.+ Delle Rclazioni Anticbe e
Modcrne fra 1* Italia e 1* India C^ew
Publications), 586
Amazon river, length of, 120, 253
Am ban Achkan Pass, Tibet, 740
Amdoa Mongols, 234
Ameriftt, a review of the data for the study
of the PrebSitorio Chronology of, by
Daniel G. Brinton (New PublicationeX
715
— — Central and South, summary of
exploration B Id, 345
The Ancient Cities of the
New World ; being tnivela tind explora-
tions in ^^liiiioo and, by Desire Chaniay
(Nuw Pul>lioationa). 393
Narrative ami Critical History of,
edited by Justin Winaor (New Publlcsi^
tions), 207, 5S8
North, general map of, by W.
Se a, K. Johnston <New Mapa^, 593
-— — — — The Western Avemne, or
Toil and Travel in Further, by M.
Roberts (New Publications), 461
' South, Notes of a Naturalist in,
by John Ball (New PuWicalionsX 261
The Icelandic Disooverers of,
by Mario A. Brown (New Publioa-
tiona), 716
Amerika^ Nord* OfBcicUe Eisenbahnkarte
der Veriinigteu fcJtaaten von (New
Maps), 593
Amiens, Nouveau Plan de la Ville d', par
R. Vieiiot (New Maps). 526
Amur river, length of, 120, 253
Ana Guruwe's village, position of, 470
Auasarawa, 306
Aneelie» J., Les Explorations au Senegal
et ilans lea Contre'es Yoiidnea dapuis
riinfiquite jusqu'a noa jours (New Pub*
lieationa), 317
Andeao watershed of Southern Ciiili, 580
Andenzes, depth of sea o£f^ 116
Anderson, A. A*, Twenty 'five Years in a
Wflggon in the Gold Regions, Africa
(New Publications), 779
Dr., 361
remarks on Tho Lu HiyeT of
Tibft,&c, 371
Andrada, Captain Paiva de, joumeya la
Mantca, 621
Andrade, MF>unt, Patagonia, height and
position of, 384
Andre, Richard, Ethnographidoho Eaitea
(New Publications), 59
Andree, Richard, HandaUas, Supplement
zur er^ten A ullage von (New Maps),
212 594
Andrew, Sir W. P„ Obituarv of, 351
Andrews, C. G, Brazil, its Gondttiooft and
Prospects (New Publicatious), 460
Angnmi Naga tribe, 39
Angeli, M, G,, new route to Timbuktu,
623
Angoui-land and bnok, A Journey from
Blantyre to, by J. T. Last, 177 ct teq.
INDEX.
793
Animarapu natives, Kew.Ouineft, 73
Anniversary Meeting of R,G.S., May 23rd,
1887, proceedings of, 446 et seq,
Antananarivo Annual and Madagascar
Magazine, No. X., edited by Bev. J.
Sibree and Rev. E. Baron (New Pub-
lications), 260
The Environs of, by P^re
IMsir^ Eoblet (New Maps), 139
Antarctic exploration, proposed Australian
expedition for, 309, 443, 576, 622, 757,
768
Antilles, Les, par L. de Bosny (New Pub-
lications), 134
Antoninus Martyr, of the Holy Places
visited by, Palestine Pilgrims' Text
Society, translated by A. Stewart and
annotated by Sir C. W. Wilson (New
Publications), 323
Aiaujo, Lieut-Colonel F. de. Report on the
Brazilian Frontier Surveys, extract from,
193
Arctic exploration, summary of, 349, 350
■ Province, An, Alaska and the Seal
Islands, by H. W. EUiott (New Publica-
tions). 133
- regions, Mr. McArthur's and Ool.
Gilder's explorations in the, 246
• Seas, the weather in the, 683
Ardagh, Golonel, Feasibility of the Rai'an
project, 613
Ardhe river. 299
Argentina, Mapa general de la Bepublica
(New Maps), 593
Rcpilblica, Atlas de la (New
Maps). 397
Atlas de la, redac-
tado por el Dr. Arturo Seelstrang (New
Maps), 728
• Atlas general de la,
oonstruido bajo la direccion de Carlos
Beyer (New Miips), 594
Argentine Lake, Patagonia, 384
- Republic and Brazil, boundary
surveys of, 194
meteorological obser-
vations in the, under Prof. Doering,
512
Arjentina, Repiiblica, Anuario Biblio-
grtLfico de la (New Publications), 320
Arthur, Port, or Lu-shuan-kou, 564
Ascherson, P., Die Nordliche Isthmus-
Wiista Aegyptens (New Publications),
713
Professor, journey in the Nile
delta, 516
observations on the desert of
the Egyptian Isthmus east of Suez
Canal, 585
Asia, Central, Correspondence respecting
the Affairs of (New Publications), 712
D^imitation Afghane, N^
gociations entre la Russie et la Grande
Bretagne 1872-85 (New Publications),
649
- MM. Capus and Bonvalot*0
journey in, 245, 307, 509
Asia, Central, Mr. Carey's expedition in,
342, 377
No. 4, 1885. Further Cor-
respondence concerning (New Publica-
tions), 136
• Prejevalsky's Journeys and
Discoveries in, by E. Delmar Morgan,
213 et seq,
Russian expedition into,
under Colonel Bolyr, 508
expeditions in, 424,
425
1
428
• Minor, M. EUs^efs expedition in,
Northern, progress of Bussiaa ex-
ploration in, 50, 54
summary of exploration in, 341
Asien, Uebersichtskarte der ethnogra-
pliischen Yerhaltnisse von, &o., von
Vinzenz v. Haardt (New Maps), 266
Wandbirte von (New Maps), 788
Askwith, G. R., remarks on explorations
in South-eastern New Guinea, 83
Assam to Burma, railway from, 40, 41
Upper, to the Irawadi, and return
over tlie Patkoi Range, Journey of the
Expedition under Colonel WoodUiorpe
from, by M^jor C. R. Biacgregor, 19
et seq.
Astronomical observatories on high moun-
tains, proposed, by the Harvard College
Observatory, 249
Athos, or the Mountain of the Monks, by
A. Riley (New PuUications), 517
Atkinson, E. S., The Himalayan District
of the North-western Provinces of Inclia
(New Publications), 586
Atlantic Ocean, North, Pilot Chart of the,
Hydrographic Office (New Maps), 66,
140, 330, 466, 529, 728, 789
Synchronous Weather
Charts of the (New Maps), 330, 398
Atlases, New. G6, 140, 212, 268, 330, 397,
466, 529, 594, 657, 728, 789
At-lesken hills, Central Asia, 426 note
Attak Oasis and the Trans-Caspian De-
serts, M. A. Konschin's observations on
the, 625
Attika, Earten von (New Maps), 136
Aubrey, M. A., Paris Geographical So-
ciety's silver medal awarded to, 255
Auriob, H. von, Historischer Ueberblick
iiber die Kolouisation des Schwarzmeer-
Kiistengebiet dej Kuukasus (New Pub-
lications), 777
Australasia, Transactions and Proceedings
of the Royal Geographical Society of^
Victoria Branch (New Publications), 718
Australia, Manual of Physical Geography
of, by H. B. de la Peer Wall (New
Publications), 650
Results of Meteorological Ob-
servations in, by H. 0. Ruseell (New
Publications). 718
South, map of (New Maps), 65
The Glacial Period in, by R.
von Lendenfeld (New Publications), 208
794
INDEX.
Austmlja, The New Atlas of (New Map&),
66
Weslern, geogriiphicDl work in,
1870-87, by tlio Han. John Foneat, G93
^ Itfi Puiit liifitoiy* Jtc,
1>y Ernest Fnvenc (Now Publics tioni),
719
Beport by the Director
of Public Works on the Public Works of
the Colony, fur the year 1885 (New
Poblicatious), 322
The Physicj^l Geo-
graphy of the SoiUb-wc*t of» by Sir W
C. P. Robinaon (New PubUrotioufl), 59
Amtmliaii expe*litiou for Atitjiit-tic explo-
it ion, pmposecl, 30!) j 443, S76, e>22, 757*
-^— — to New Guinoaj uoder
Mr. Catbbertflon, 50S
AiTstralien, Hiii^Oit, Oro-hydrogropliisphe
SkitEe voE, Dr. Lendenfeld'a routes in
(New Blaps), 529
Azemiirj H., DictioBBiuje Stieng (New
PubHciitioiiB), 5B7
BaS Si MRKAKfJ, G74
BarOD, G. W,, New Complete Atlas of the
World (New SLips), 2tJ8
Biithltflev, M. J. B., and C, 8. Ward,
Thorough Guide Seriee, North Wales
(Niw Publications), 45K
Tliorrnigh Guide Series, The
Northern HijErh lands, Scotland (New
PublicalionH), 4i>8, 586
Thorough Guide Series, Irektid
(New Publications), 648
Btidift' well. 675
Bucdrktr, K,, Greflt Britain, Handlxwk
for Travellera (New Publiontiona), 7t>D
~ — — * Italy, H;iiidbook for TmveULrs
(New Publiofliiona), 315
'" — ' London and its Environs (New
PuhliciitionB)» 648
• Southern Germany ond Anstria
(New PnbliciitionB), 648
- The Kbiutj from Rotterdftm to
Constance, llaudlxjok for Truvellera
(New Publications), 458
Ufleni?, Viseonde de Sanches de, oti Diogo
Cao's memorial stone, 579
Biiert, Lieutenant, ascent of the River
MungHJa, Central Africa, 306
BaginKe, Mount, 2Via, 315
Bahama Islands, Mr. Blake's ob^nrationa
on the, 57iV
Btthr-el-Arab river, 204
el Ghazal and Gtbel» 8udda on the,
400
Jnmif or Yusuf, 608, GH
Yusuf, The. roughly describing its
present stale and uses, by Captain H. H.
Brown, 614
Baikal, Lake, M, Tchcrskj'g new geological
map of, 5 1
Bfiillie, A. F., A ParagOByaii Treasure:
Ibe search and discovery (New Poblic*-
lions). 520
Bair^l, Sir David. 661
Bakangai territory, 406
B«iker, A., The Abjrigint)il Indian Bmcfis |
of ttie Slate of Vera Cruz, Mexioo, 56ft *
d sfff.
Fakkak Kntal pass, 103
Biikulva Country, Silva Porto's Joomey *
from Bibe to the, 753 ei $eq,
— * tiibe, <>42, tHO, 647, 756
Balance sleet of B.G,8. for 1880, 448
Bftldeg^, Lake, depth of, 686
Balkan halbiUiiel, Die, by A. C, Lm (Now
Publications), 618
Balkan Peninsula^The Growth of Freedom
in the, by J. G, C. Minchin(New PttWi-
catioug), 25S
Btilkaiij*, La Peninsule de*, by Emile De
I^aveleye. and translation of, by Mf^
Thorpe (New Publicatkins), 315
Bidkaflh, Luke, 427
-^ -^" MM, IvrasnofTs and Ignft-
tief's explorations in the neighbourhood
of, notes on, 116
Balkh Ao river, 107
Ball, Jnlin, Notes of a Naturalist in SoaUi
America (New Pnblicj^tions), 261
Balnha tribe, 390, 645, 755
Bwmbcri::* K., t*chidwandkiirte vom Kooig-
reich Sachaen (New Maps), 692
Biimian, 104, 105
Bancrfjft, IL IL, Tbc works of. The HUtorf
of Culitbrniii, Oregon, and San FraneiBCO
(New Publicatiuns), bS
Ban da or Bandja tribe, 295
Band-i-Amir or Band-i-Barbar lakes, 103
- — ^^^~.- — Lakes and Moort*8 Bende*
meer, Letter from Major Ravertyon the,
252
Band'i'Turkestan range, 575
Band via tribe, 408
Bnrabdn, I^fTopold, A iraTezs la TitnLSte.
Etudes Bur les (iasis, &c. (New Publica-
tionn). 587
Barberton, railway to, DeJagoa Bay, 503
Barbier, J. V,. Esaii d'nn Lexique geb-
grapliiquo (New Publications), 264
Barthc1i*iny-St. llilaire, J., L'Inde An-
plaifip, Bon etat actuel — son avenir (New
Publications), 5«7
BartholoDjew, J., Atlas of the Britbh Em-
pire throughout the World (New Maps),
212
Gazetteer of the British
Isle?, i^tatiiiiival and Topographical
(New Publieations), 205
PfK^ket Atlases of En^hmd
and WaleH smd Soothind (New Maps),
466
Pocket Atlas of Ireland
(New Maps), (158
The British Colonial Pooket
Atlpis (New Mapa), 140
Bashilange tribe, 330
Baasongo Miuo tribei 042
INDEX.
795
Bastian, A., Zur Lehre Ton den Geo-
graphischen Provinzen (New Pablica-
tions), 322
Batchelor, J., An Ainu Grammar, with
the Lan^niage, Mythology, &c., of Japan,
hj B. H. Chamberlain (New Publica-
tions), 316
Batetela tribe, 776
Batua, or Akka, dwarf tribe, 295, 407, 646,
776
Baudin, M., journey in Guinea, 190
Baumann, Herr O., observations on the
physical features of Fernando Po, 623
Baviera, M., explorations in the Western
Sahara, 203
Bayern, Positions-Karte vom Konigreich
(New Maps), 265
Topographischen Atlas dee Konig-
reich (New Maps), 265
Bayol, Dr., Voyage en Sen^gambie (New
Publications), 779
Beautemps-Beaupr^, Mount, New Britain,
2
Becker, Jerome, La Vie en Afrique, aveo
Preface de Cte. Goblet D*Alviella (New
Publications), 713
Bedawin tribe, 660
Bedel river, Central Asia, 427
Beleta, town, Guinea, 760
Belgique, Atlas des villes de la, an XVP
Sieclo (New Maps), 466
De rinfluence des Formations
G^logif^ues en, by Louis Navez (New
Publications), 711
- La Density do la population en,
par J. Du Fief (New Publications),
129
Beliafsky, N. N., 431
Bell, Charles N., The Selkirk Settlement
and the Settlers (New Publications), 715
Beloch, Dr. J., Die Bevolkerung der
Griechisch - Rdmischen Welt (New
Publications), 462
Bengal, Bay of. Charts of the (New Maps),
789
Bengal, South, A Missionary's Wife among
the Wild Tribes of, extracts from Mrs.
Murray Mitobeirs journal (New Publica-
tions), 61
Benjamin. S. G. W., Persia and the Per-
sians (New Publications), 205
Bentley, Mr., 681
- Rev. W. H., Dictionary and
Grammar of the Kongo Language, &c.
(New Publications), 58
Life on the Congo (New Pub-
lications), 649
Berenice port, 665
Berg, L. W. C. van den, Le Hadhramout
et les Colonies Arabes dans rArchipel
Indien (New Publications), 518
Ber<?haus, Prof. H., Physikalischer Atlas
(New Maps), 67, 212, 268, 330, 529, 657,
728
Bergner, B., Eum'inien (New Publica-
tions), 517
Bering Glacier, Great, Alaska, 276
Noe XIL— Dbg. 1887.]
Berlin, Dorothea, Erinnerongen an Gustav
Nachtigal (New Publications), 651
Geogmphical Society, Proceedings
of, December 4th, 1886, 56
January 8th, 1887, 128
February 5th, 1887, 256
March 5th, 1887, 257
.16th, 1887, 313
• AprU2nd, 1887,390
- June 4th, 1887, 515
. July 2nd. 1887, 584
. October 8th, 1887, 707
. November 5th, 1887, 775
und Potsdam, Spezialkarte
der
Berlin
Umgegend von (New Maps), 655
Bernanl, Dr., L* Alg^rie Qui S'en Va (New
Publications), 649
Berry, Sir Graham, and Antarctic Explora-
tion, 622
Berufiord, ice off the, 684
Besud Road between Herat and Kabul,
103
Bevan, T. F., Discovery of two new rivers
in British New Guinea, 576, 595 et seq.,
766
Beyer, Carlos, Atlas General de la Re-
Sublica Argentina, construido bajo la
ircccion de (New Maps), 594
Bhaga Tsaidam lake, 743
Bihe (Bi'e), Silva Porto's Journey from, to
the Bakuba Country, 753 et acq,
Billinghurst, G. E., Estudio sobre la Geo-
grafia de Tarapacd, trnbajo esorito para
el ateneo de Iquiquo (New Publica-
tions), 520
Biography, National, Dictionary of, by L.
Stephen (New Publications), 135
Blackie, C., Geographical Etymology
(New Publications), 783
Blackwood, Captain, 595
Blake, H. A., observations on the Bahama
Islands, 579
Blanford, Mr., on the origin and character
of the monsoons, and the influence of
forests on climate in India, 191
Blangsteil, M. H., on the population of
Greenland, 312
Blantyre, Dr. Milne*s observations on the
climate of, 305
Journey of Mr. Last ftom, to the
Namuli Hills, 42
to Angoni-land and back, A Jour-
ney from, by J. T. Last, 177 et seq.
Blue Mountain Peak, Jamaica, Mr. Hall
on the height of, 579
river. Tibet, 228
Bodensce lake, depth of, 686
Boers in South Africa, History of the, by
G. MoCall Theal (New Publications),
588
Bohm, Dr. A., Eintheilnng der Ostalpen
(New Publications), 709
Bokalik valley, Tibet, 741
Bokharian dominions. Expedition to the,
organised by the Military Topographical
Department of Turkistaii, 432
Bolshof, A. A., 431
3 X
796
IxVDEX,
Boltoti, H. C, Catalogne of Scientific ancl
Tecliniail Periodieak (Now Pablicft-
tioEK), 521
Bolyr, Colonel, Russian Exp«5<lition into
Centml Aaia, under, 508
Bona, Bay of, Dr* Fiacher*B obaprvationa
on cliangofl of tbo coast-line of, 242
Bonga, poBition of, 18§
BoD?Blot and Cupus, M^M,, progress of
jonmey in Ctotral AHia, 245, 307, 509
Bordeaux to Jemsnlf'm, Itinerary from, by
* The Bordmux Pilgrini/ tmnslftted liy
A. Stewart and aniiotaled by Sir O.
\\\ WilsoD. Pftlestinc Pilgrimii* Text
Society (Kovv Ptiblicatiuna), 323
Bot«?lhi/F, d€% Espjitia. Oi?ogmfm Hoj-
folu^ica y Etiolu^ica (New Publi^a-
tioiia), 58a
BcjUC. position of, 189
Bourbon, L*Ile, Simples Benseij^neraonts
BUT, by E. Pajot(New Publications), 520
Bonnie, G., Mure hi son Grunt awarded to,
311,454
Bove, Giaeomo, Obitnary of, 584
Bowden Junction, 5^6
Bowcti» Sir George, remarks on the Is-
landji of tbe New Britain Group, 18
Bradford, Educational CoUeotion at, 250
Branda, Paul, Lo Haut -Mekong, ou le
Looa on vert (New Publictitions), 316
BraailicD, Central-, Durcli, Von Karl tob
den Sttinen (New Publications), 208
Braunschweig, Sped nlk arte vom Heraog-
tbum (New Maps), 3})5
Brazil, A Journey in the province of San
Paulo, in Jaly-September 1885, by
K. F, Holme, 108 el seq.
~ its Condition and Prospecla, by C C.
Andrews (New Publications), 460
- Original karte der &iiidlichen Kolo-
nicen (New Maps), 724
Brazilian Frontier Surveyf, extract from
Lieni.-Colonel F. de Araujo's report on
tke, 193
Brazza, M. J. do. Explorations on iho
Biver Ogo w«^ 3:i9
'- M. S, de. Conferences et Lettrea
de, flur sea Troia Explorations dana
I'Oucat AMcain^ texte publieo et ooor-
donne par Napoleon Ney (New Pab-
lications), 393
Bruzzavillo, position of, 189
Bremner, John,aseent of Mount Wrangel,
278
Brcttcs, M, de, journey in Soutb America,
515
Brighara, W. T., Guatemala, the land of
the Quetzal (New PuWicntiona), 780
Brindley, \V., Ace^mnt of a recent visit to
tlio ancient Porphyry Quurriea of
Egypt, 692
Brinton, Daniel G., A review of the datu
for the study of the Prehiatorio Chrono-
logy of Americii (New Publications),
715
— -- ■ Were the Tolteca an Hiutorio
Natioiudity? (New Publicationa), 781
Britain, Thc^ Beginning of the Geography
of, by Prof. Boyd Dawkina, C9€
British Asancifitinn Committee on Geogtu-
phical Education, Sleeting of the, 120
^— ' '■ — Proceed in i^'s of Geogiu*
phicftl Section of the, Mancb ester, 1887,
62S H seq,, 689 ct stg., 76 J> tt scq.
Colonial Pocket Adas, The, by
J. Bartholomew (New Maps), HO
— Colonies, Introduction to an Hia*
toricftl Geography of tbe^by O. P. Luoba
(New PublicatioiiH), 652
► Columbia, Dr, Dawson and Mr.
Ogilvie'a oxplorationa in, 758
Indexed Map of (New
Maps), 657
- Infonnation for Intending
Settlers (New PubUcations), 716
itfl Agricultnral and Com-
mercial Capabilitiea, by Prof, Henry
Tanner (Nt>w Publication a)* 717
Empire, The, by Sir George Camp-
bell (New Publications), 323
The Colon iiil und Indian
Atlas of tbe (New Mapa), 268
-- — - The Queen's JnbUce Atlns
of the, by J. Franoon Wiiiiams (New
Maps), 67
tbronghout the World,
Atlas of tbe, by J. Bartholomew (New
Miip>), 212
Guiann : ita paat hiatory, preaient
position, and future prospects in rtd*-
tiou to Venezuela, by H. Watt (New
Publications!), 460
-■ — Honduras, Notes on a part of the
Wefitem Frontier of^ by W. Miller,
420
l^leg, Gavtetteer of tbe, Statistical
atid Topocritiptiical, by J. Burtholomew
(New PublicationeX 205
— — ' Gwjgmpliy of thei, from ten
different stamlixjinta, by T. M, Darid*
son (New Pubbcationfi), 710
' ' Pictorinl Geoj^raphy of the,
by Mary E, PalgraTe (New Publica-
tions), 711
Museum, A Subject Index of tbe
Modern >V\irka added to the Library of
the, in the yaira 1880-85, by G. K
Fortescne (New Publication a), 134
— - — New Guinea, Diaoovery of two new
rivera in* bv T. F, Bevan, 595 et seq.
Brown, Cuptam It. II., The Bahr Yumif,
roughly describing ita present state and
uses, 614
^ Marie A., Tho Icelandic Dis-
coverera of America (New Publications),
716
Rev. G., and B. Danka, A Dic-
tionary of the Duke of York Island
Lemgimge (New PubUcatioup), 59
Itev, George, reniarkd on the
laljinda of the New Britain Group, 16
Briickner, Dr. E,, Die Vergletacherung
dea Salzachgebietea, nelist Beobacb-
tungen iiber die Eiazeit in der Schwelz,
1ND£X.
'797
Geogiaphische Abhandlangen (New
Publications), 129
Bruges, Plan de, par J. Kips (New Maps),
325
Braniere, M. de la, 555
Brussels Exhibition, Geography at the,
764
Bruxelles, Plan de, par J. Kips (New
Maps), 325
Bryce, J., remarks on the scope and
methods of geography, 170
J. Annan, remarks on the expedition
from Upper Assam to the Irawadi, Ac,
40
Buohner, Max, Kamerun, Skizzen und
Betrachtungen (New Publications), 714
Buelna, £., Pereggrinacion de los Aztecas,
Ac. (New Publications), 781
Buenos-Ayres, Annuaire Statistique de la
Province de, public sous la direction du
Dr. E. R. Coni (New PubHcations), 208
Notes of a Residence in, or
the Great Silver River, by Sir H. Rum-
bold (Now PubHcations), 520
Bukharof, D. N., 431
Bunge, Dr., and Baron von Toll, Progress
of Expedition to the New Siberian Is-
lands, 51, 117, 577
Bunna, Wady, 488
Burma, Captain Hobday's surveys of, 575
576
The Ruby Mines of, by G. Skelton
Streeter, 701
Upper and Lower, Report of the
Administration of (New Publications),
712
Colonel Woodthorpe and
Captain Hobday's surveys in, 308
Bums river, 598
Burnt Mountain, Alaska, 278
Busi river, 622
Butler, Colonel, Sir W. F., The Campaign
of the Cataracts, being a personal narra-
tive of the Great Nile Expedition of
1884-5 (New Publications), 459
Biittncr, Dr., expedition in the Congo
regions, 338
Cabikda, Molembo, e Massabi, Carta dos
Territories de (New Maps), 211
Cachapaul, Valley of the. Dr. A. Plage-
mann*s explorations in the, 248
Cairo a Ke'ueh, Berenice et Berber, et
retour par le desert de Korosko, Journal
d*un voyage du, par Col. R. E. Colston
(New Publications), 260
Calcutta, New Survey of, 117
Camacuam river. South Brazil, Dr. H. v.
Jhering's voyage up the, 686
Cambridge Lo^ Examinations, awards of
geographical nrize medals, 454
and ()xford, Report of the Com-
mittee on the Study of Geography at,
698
Cambridge and Oxford Universities, con-
' ference on the establishment of a reader-
ship of geography at the, 188
R.G.S.'s
proposals for establishment of lecturers
on geography at the, 333, 334
Campbell, Sir G., The British Empire
(New Publications), 323
Canada, Geological and Natural History
Survey of. Annual Report of, A. R. C.
Selwyu, Director (New Publications),
208
Mackinlay's Map of the Maritime
Provinces of the Dominion of (New
Maps), 65
Map of the Dominion of, corrected
to January 1887 (New Maps), 788
Cants mageUaniouSy 386
Cantley, N., Straits Settlements, Report on
the Forest Department for 1886 (New
Publications), 648
Ca5 (Cam) Diogo, *'Padra3" of, at the
mouth of the Congo, visit to, by R. E.
Dennett, 689
discovery of the Congo,
and memorial stone of^ 439, 579
CJape Colony, Correspondence respecting
the Affairs of Pondoland (New Publica-
tions), 136
of Good Hope, Blue-book for the
Colony of the (New Publications), 206
— Civil Service List,
1887, and Civil Service Calendar, 1887,
edited by E. F. Kilpin (New Publica-
tions), 260
Statistical Register
of the Colony of the, for 1886 (New
Publications), 519
Capello, H., and R. Ivens, Dc Angola &
Contra-costa (New Publications), 317
Capus and Bonvalot, MM., expedition in
Central Ada, 245. 307, 457, 509
Carey, A. D., A Journey round Chinese
Turkistau and along the Northern Fron-
tier of Tibet, 731 et seq.
-progress of expedition in Turkistan
and Tibet. 175, 232, 342, 377
CWlyle, Rev. J. E., South Africa and
its Mission Fields (New Publications),
61
Carribbees, Camps in the, by F. A. Ober
(New Publications), 134
Carter, G. T., on the climate of the
Gambia and Sierra Leone, 240
Carteret, Captain, visit to the New Britain
Islands, 16
Carvalho, Captain, Information on the
history of Lunda, Central Africa, 382
Casati, Captain, 305
Castillo, Lieut. A. del, journey in Patar
gonia, 512
St. Augustin del, Exploracion al
interior de la Patagonia, &o. (New
Publications), 717
Caucasian Languages, West, Original Vo-
cabularies of five, by D. R. Psacock
(New PnbUoationsX 205
3x2
798
INDEX.
Cnucagus, Centittl* A Skektf>ii Diary of
Six Wet'ka* Tmvtl in tlm, by D. W.
Freslifield (Now rnblictUion»)» 777
Mr. FrfBhlultra nnd M, de
Dcchy's visit to the, (Ml, 7G7
Cnutin provlDCt-. Cliili, M3
Csiyo, British Honduny;, 422
CLrri, Cailu, Carta d' Italia (New Maps^
463
Ceylon, Island of, Dr. F. Sunisin od tliD
preographicfll condi lions of tije» :j91
ChaflanjoD, M.» prngretis of exjicdilion to
tbo w>iirc€s *»f the t Jrinooo, t204, 255, 456
Chiiix Hill«, Ali^rtka, 27;J
thiiklik village, Tilxt, 739
Chiila, Cniter-liiko of» on Mount Kilimftn-
jaro, 47
C/udiethfcr^ H.M.S., Report on llio fc^ientific
result:) of the voyage of^ prepnretj under
tlie fluperintendoijce of the late Sir C.
Wyvilh^ 'J hointon, and John Murray
(New Publifiitiona), 324, 720
QmlnierSf Jamej^ Piontoring iti New
Guinea (New Piiljl-cfttions). ^^4
llev. d„ Explorfttions in South-
easicru New Guinfa. 71 rt aetj-
1 renioika on Explo'Tn-
tioiii^ in South-pastern New CJuinea, 85
Chambeilftin, IS. II., Tlie Lao gtmiJ^e, My-
thology, lite., of Jflpm, with KU A inn
Grammar by J. Butchfcior (New Pablica*
tiona), 31 G
Cbampitin, Colonel Sir J. TJ, Buteman,
Obituary of, 1%
Chauclmmajo iu Pern to the Atlantic, Q.
P. Jftuits* exf>edition from the, com-
munimttdby C. R. Markhnm. 5U5
CI I an Cheiich erctk^ Britiah lloudiinis,
422
Cban-ptti 8hau or Long Wbito Mountain fl,
533, 541, Bm
Chamiiv, M. Desin?, jourueyB iu Yucatan*
128
— -—The Aneient Cities of the Now
World; Ixicg travels and explorations
in Mexiert and (Vutral America* 1857-
82 (N( w Pul>licntion&), 3i*3
Charts, Now, Admiialty, m, 130.329, 405,
725
cauctlled, €6. 140, 329, 4<}5, 720
*- eorrectcHh f">G, HO, 329, 4*]i>, 727
French Hydrof^raphic, 329, 727
-— Norwe^BU, 329
-^—^^ Untied SUtta Hvdrographic, G<j,
140, 330, 466, 52il, 594/728. im
Chavagnac» M. de, De Fez a Oudjda (New
PublicatioUB), 779
Cheragh-TiBh or Lamp Eock of Pamfr, 70
Clicso, Mount, 43
Chewa tribe, 115
Chewing, C, Journey to thft ftouroes of the
Finke river, Anatrali«» 192
Cbiktrai king, and dl^triot of, 185, 186
Chile, Anuario de la Ofioina Central
Meteorologicu do (New Public* tione),
460
■- new provincea in, 443
Chile, Sinopsifi EatadtBtien y Geng'rftfica
de, en 18S6 (Now Publications), 4fiO
Southern, Breaks ia tbe Aiide*n
wateriihed of, ,i80
Cbinu, Imperial Maritime CiiBtom^ (New
Publications), (M9
— North- wi liter n, and Eabtem Tibet,
Potanio's Journey in» 233
population of, 57
Travels and Investigations in tim
Middle Kingdom, bv J. H, WilfiOU ,
(New Publii^ations), 779
Chinanteco trilM*, Vera Cruz, 50S, 570
Chineso Turkiatau, A Jouruty round, and
along the Norihcrn Frontier of Tibet*
by A. D- Carey, 731 t;t stf.
., — .^_ Captfiin Gn>iiibcheF-
Bki'ii explorations in, 508
Cbinyanja I>anguage, as spoken at Lake
Nyasa, Table of Concords and Farad iinn
of Verb of the, by Rev. R. LawD (New
Publieatioufl), 58
Cbipandi river, Central Africa, 177
Cbipettt tribe, 115
Clurvin, Dr.. ou the population of France,
204
rhiomChium Pass, 223 not€
Ciiiikaisiin volcano, J.ijian, 93
Chong Kmu Kul Lake, Tibel, 740
Chofihiu province, Japan, 98
Chubut river, Patagonia, 384
Churchward, W. P., My Consulate in
Samoa (New Publications), 651
Cinchona cultivation in the Llaiid of Re-
union, 51 r. St John on* rtlH
Clark, Latimer, Transit Tables fur 18ST
(New Ptihlicationa), 59
Clear Water Lake, Labrador, 193
Climates of the Globe, Qeneral de Tillo
on the, 7ti3
Cloudy MountainF, New Guinea, 81
Cobhum, C. Delft va!, An atttrmpt at a
Bibliography of Cyprua (New PiibUoa-
catione), 57
Colberg, Kaite dor Umgegcnd von (Sew
Mfipfi), 326
Collons, J. H., Guide to Trinidad (New
Publications), 394 ,
Colombo, Crhitoforo, L*origine d!» by O.
Varaklo (New PublieationB), 721
Colonial and Indian Exbibiti>>n, Rt-porteon
the Colonial Section of, edited by H.
Trueman Wood (New Publications),
323
— Report of
the Royal Onmmission for the (New Pub-
lications), 500
^ — - — ~ Biwk Circular and Bibliostraphi-
eal Record (New Publicatioufl), 721
Cohjuhoun, A. R., remarks on tbe Bnby
]^linea of Burma, 701
Col son. Captain, 6tj6
Colston, CoL, itE., Journal d'uu Toyago
du Cairo k Keneh, B^'re'nice et Berber,
et re our par lo divert de Korosko
(Now PublicatiousX 2€0
Comber, Rev. T. J., Obituary of, 583
INDEX.
799
Conder, C. R., Syrian Stone-lore ; or. The
Monumental Hiatory of Palestine (New
Publications), 259
'Congo, Daron von Schwerin's discovery of
Diogo Gam's memorial stone at the
mouth of the, 439
Gtiptain Rouvier's astronomical
observations to fix positions on tlie, 189
discovery of the, and Diogo Cao
(Cam) memorial stone, 439, 579
District, Seven Years among the
Fjort; being an English Trader's Ex-
periences in the, by B. E. Dennett
(New Publications), 132
Fran9ais, Carte du, dress^e par
M. Rouvier (New Maps), 724
length of, 120, 253
Life on the. by Rev. W. H. Bent-
ley (New Publications), 649
- Mr. Grenfeirs explorations of the
tributaries of the, 1^39
Notice sur TEtat Independent du.
by M. von Eetvelde, 689
- region, Lieuts. Kund and Tappen-
beck's explorations in the, 338
• Lieut. Wissmann*s explor-
ations in the, 390, 640, 776
summary of explorations in
the, 337
Swedes on the, 381
tributaries of, 298 et seq,
visit to Diogo Cao's " Padrao
at
Ihe mouth of the, by R. E. Dennett, 689
Conn, W., Cowboys and Colonels ; Narra-
tive of a Journey across the Prairie and
over the Black Hills of Dakota (New
Publications), 461
Connell, R., St. Kilda and the St. Kildians
(New Publications), 392
ConoUy, Captain A., 103
Cook's Inlet, Alaska, 277
Coolidge, W. A. B., Duhamel, K., and
Perrin, F., Guide du llaut-Dauphind
(New Publications), 710
Copper river, Alaska, 276
Cora, Guide, Carta Speciale della Regione
attomo a Massaua (New Maps), 396
Corvo, Jofto De Andnide, Estudos sobre
as Provincias Ultramarinas (New Publi-
cations), 720
Coslin, Bpecialkarte des Regierungs-Be-
zirks (New Maps), 326
Ootteau, E., Les Nouvelles-He'brides (New
Publications). 719
Coudrcau, H., Journey in Guiana, 77p
Henri A., La France Equi-
noxiale (New Publications), 716
Council of R.G.S., Annual Report of the,
446
Crillon, Mount, Alaska, height of, 279
Croatien und Slavonien, Karte von (New
Maps), 209
Croucli, A. P., On a Surf -bound Coast ; or
Cable-laying in the African Tropics
(New Publications), 780
Croisades, Les Pays des, by Jules Hoche
(New Publications), 316
Clenomyt magellaniew, 380
Cumberland, 8., The Queens Highw.iy
from Ocean to Ocean (New Publications),
520
Curz:)n, Hon. R., Visits to Monasteries in
the Levant (New Publications), 26i
Cust, R. N., Linguistic and Oriental
Essays, written from 1847-87 (New
Publications), 720
remarks on explorations in South-
eastern New Guinea, 84
Cuthbertson, Mr., ascent of Mount Obree,
Owen Stanley Range, 758
expedition to New Guinea,
508
Cyprus, An attempt at a Bibliography of,
by C. Delaval Cobliam (New Publica-
tions), 57
Through, by Agnes Smith (New
Publications), 392
D.
Daushub to Ain Raian, The Desert from,
by Captain C. Surtees, 613
Dakota, Cowboys and Colonels; Narrative
of a Joumev across the Prairie and over
the Black Hills of, by W. Conn (New
Publications), 461
Daksong-chu river, 371
Dagleish, Mr., 752
Dall, Mr., on the height and eruption of
Mount St. Elias, 271
W. H., Letter from, on the position of
Mount St. Elias and the Schwatka
Expedition to Alaska, 444
Dalmatia, the Quarnero, and Istria, with
Cettigne in Montenegro and the Island
of Grade, by T. G. Jackson (New
Publications), 648
Danga Gol river, 747
Daniel, Rev. Canon, remarks on the
Scope and Methods of geography, 167
Danvers. F. C, Report to the Secretary of
State for India in Council on the Records
of the India Office (New Publications),
462
Dapha Biim Mountain and Valley, 25
D'Aramon, M., Le Voyage de (Now Pub-
lications), 316
Davidson, T. M.. Geography of the British
Isles, from ten different standpoints
(New Publications), 710
Dawkins, Prof. Boyd, The Beginning of
the Geography of Britain, 696
remarks on the Teaching of
Geography at the Universities, 700
Dawson, Dr., explorations in British
Columbia, 758
Decazos, M., journeys in the Congo
region, 457
Dechy, M. de, and Mr. Freshfleld's visit to
the Caucasus, 617, 707
Deir Atrush, 670
Delagoa Bay, Journeys in the District of,
Dec. 1886-Jan. 1887. by H. E. O'Neill,
497 ct seq.
800
INDEX.
Dem Beljjr, positioTi of, 315
Deuiiiivrk, (leneral^tabens tnpograpIii«ke
Kaart ovtr (Now Map»X 723
Dtiint'tt, IL E.» ScTcu Yean* aiDong tte
Fjort; boing an Kngli^li Trader's Ex-
jHTience* in the Cuwgo District (New
FubUcfttiony), 132
J* Visit ^^ iiiogo Coo's "Padrao^'
.at tho mouth of the Congo, 689
[l>etiiiijg, G., Tho Citit-» and Ceuittcriea of
Etniria (New Publications), 5J7
[ Brni, Mt. Clinton, reiuorks on tlie Alpine
Ri^one of Alcu^ka, 2S4
' Derby, Aiutrallut 690
Do&i]«Bure, M., 281
D^itliitiiioaA, K., Cm to do 1» delimitation
Frnnt'o * Portugnifio en Guioee (New
MftpH), 'ill
Be«giHiini», A I .k% mi the Lu riYer, 361, 362
— (Ml the ortliogTapiiy of goo-
grapliii'^^Ll nun I us, 313
Di'utschi-n ReiiliPH, Karte dea (New Maps),
63, 2U:n 326, 463, 501
ill luiropa, Ucbersicbti-kiirtedcr
YerbreituTij^ der, von K. Kieptrt (New
Mnfi«}, 786
DciitM^k - FrutiziJaificbo Grfiu/Jiinder nilt
fjrnauer Einzelcbnnng d< r franzo-isciien
Befestigimga-Anlageu (New Maps), 4<i3
DculBcklHnd and dio Alpen, Prolil durcb
(New Maps), 395
Dcutichlands^ Uc IxTgicbthkarte der Kisen-
bfthncn (New Blapw), 463
DeutB^ili-Lotliriiigen, GeoltDpiBeho Uebor-
fliobUkiirte dea weBtiielien (New Mape),
326
. . — , — ^^__ — . Uel>ersieht8karte der
Eisenrr^feldur dei* weatlichen (New
Maps), 326
Dickson, W. P*, The Provincea of the
Roiimn Empire fromCffiBar to Diocletian,
by T. Momiijseti, trunaluted by (N<jw
Piiblkatiomj), 263
DicU% position of, 189
Dienrr, Dr, C, Libanon. Grnndlinien der
PhyBiwcIjrn Gpographie und Getdogio
von MittebSvrku (New Publieationa),
251*
Diercke, C, und E, Gaebler, Neueste
Karto vom Haiz (New MitpaJ, 5^1
Billing river, 27
Dikhtaii, Mount, height of, 767
Dink a revolt. Central Africa, lOD
DipTolodim AuiitraUs^ 696
Djaiipi, Jkiunt, 767
Djunm river, T^\i
Doce, Rio^ Valley of tbe, by W. .T. Bteains,
702
Dolbn, W., Zeitijiem-Epbemeriden auf
daft Jubr 1886 (New Publicatiooaj, &^
Bon^ltis river, New Gnineu. 576
BouIb, M., jonrtiLy iu the Westeni Sahara,
im
Bragrau Lnko of Pamir, by Sir Henry
Riii^liii^on, 6!)
Brenlen, Neucster Plan von (New Hajifl),
326
Dry Ba J, Alaakm, 279
Brygtil&kl, Df. E. von, Die GeoiddeHniuw 'i
tioQcti der EtBzeit (New Publieatiosig)^
720
Bti Chaillu, Paul, renmrka on exploratiozia
io Central Afiica, 419
Bueru or Kakibbi river, Central Afijea,
440
Bu Fiefp J., La Beti«it45 de la Population en
Belgique (New Publication*), 129
Dnbam^jl, H., Ptjrrio, F„ and Cbolidge^
W. A. B., Guidtj du Huut-Daapliwe
(NeM' Publimttojm), 710
Biike of York X^land, A Dictionary of tbe
Lan^age of tlic, by Hev. G. Brown and
B. Bankii (New Publications), 59
Bukhan, Jebel, 692
Bumbure Rangi\ Tibet, 224
Bnnda fitation. East Africa, 494
BuDD, T. W*, remarks on the Scope •zid
Methoda of geography, 166
Dnvejiier, H., Liete de Positions G^o-
graphiques en Afrique (New Publioa-
tioiw), 519
BziiDgaria« detert of, 215
Earth, population of, Prof. £. Levaonnr'a
tablea of, 763
£aat, Tbe Sacred Books of the, edited hy
F. Max Miiller (New Pubiieationa),
260
Eckhardi, H., Mattbmus Mertau. Sldzse
tieines Lebena, &c, (New PublicatiotiaX
720.
Ecuador^ Travels in the Wilda of, and the
ExploratioD of the Putumayo River, by
A. Simson (New Publieationa), 321
Edp:ley, J. C, Tbe Ori^do aod Features of
Mountain Syutemis (New Publicaiiotia),
690
Educational Collection, Ii.G.S.\764
Eetvelde, M. von, Notiee sur TEtat Ind^
pendant dn Congo, 689
Egli, Dr. J. J., Die Suhwoiz (New Pub-
lieatiouB), 205
Egypt, Accoimt of a Recent Vifiit to tbe
Ancient Porphyry Qunrriea of, by W,
Briodley, 692
extent of cultivable land in, 609
Middle, Tho Ruian Mceriiit or
Storage Reservoir of, by Cope WMIe-
houee, 608 et seq.
• MUitary Histflry of the Campaign
of 1882 in, % CoL J, F. Manrico (New
PublicatiouB), 780
— Notea on a Sketch Map of two
Routes in the Eastern Besort of, by
Ernest A. Flover, ij^O et seq,
Eigner, A. G., 431
Eiiiaeit, Die Geoiddeforuiationen der, by
Br. E. von DrygaLiki (New PubUoft-
tioi>s), 720
El Arish, position of, 586
Elbe, Stiomkarte der ;New Maps)» 209
INDEX.
801
El Gaita« 665
Elias, Mr. Key, expedition in Central
Asia, 341
■ on the Dragon Lake of P^mlr, 70
Elis^ief, M., expedition in Asia Minor,
312, 428, 431
Elliott, H. W., An Arctic Province : Alaska
and the Seal Islands (New Publica-
tions), 133
Elysseef, Dr. A. d', journey in Asia Minor,
312, 428, 431
Emel valley, surveys in the, 437
Emin Pasha, biographical sketch of, 251
■ — expedition for the relief of, 47,
114, 126, 202, 336, 339, 759, 765
• letter from Emir Karm Allah
tc, 415
recent letters from, 439
Empress Augusta river. Admiral von
Schleinitz and Dr. Schrader's journey
up the, 120
England and Bussia face to face in Asia,
1^ Lieut A. C. Yate (New Publica-
tions), 206
Wales, Pocket Atlas of, by
J. Bartholomew (New Maps), 466
- Popular Map of (New
The Cteology of, by
Maps), 786
H. B. Woodward (New Publioations),
316
South-eastern, the geography of,
149-52
English and German territories in East
Africa, new boundaries of, 188
Protectorate in East A&ica, ex-
tent of, 493
Equator station, position of, 189
Eiokert, R. von, Dcr Kaukasus und seine
Volker (New Publications), 518
Erde, Die, in Earten u. Bildem (New
Maps), 397
Erfurt, Specialkarte des Begierangs-Be-
zirks (New Maps), 326
Erh-tao Chiang river, 548
Ernst, A., La Expoeicion Nacional de
Venezuela en 1883 (New Publications),
526
EakeQord, ice in the, 684
EspaSa. Geograffa Morfoldgica y Etioldgica,
by F. de Botella (New Publications), 586
Esquimaux, Les Grands, by Emile Petitot
(New Publications), 650
Etruria, The Cities and Cemeteries of, by
G. Dennis (New Publications), 517
Europa, Central, Karte von (New Maps),
63
Einleitung in die L'anderkunde
von, by A. Kirchhoff (New Publica-
tions), 711
Eisenbahn und Dampfschiff-
ronten Karte von, von J. Franz (New
Maps), 326
Mittel-, Topographische Spezial-
karte von (New Maps), 463
■ Stidost-, Karte von (New Maps),
787
Euroi^usofae Orient, Der (New Maps), 655
Europe, Carte de 1', Les Monuments de la
Gdbgraphie, des Biblioth^ues de Bel-
gique (New Maps), 591
Illustrated, Orell Fussli & Co.
(New Publications), 777
the climate of, as regards the
duration of a certain mean temperature
in different areas, Herr A. Supan on, 441
Evening Meetings, R. G. S., Report of,
December 13th, 1886. 53
January 17tli, 1887, 126
31st, 1887, 201
February 14th, 1887, 202
- 28th, 1887, 254
- March 14th, 1887, 254
. 28th, 1887, 311
■ AprU 25th, 1887, 311
• May 9tb, 1887, 388
- June 6th, 1887, 455
27th, 1887, 513
. November 14th, 1887, 765
Eves, C. W., Jamaica at the Royal Jubilee
Exhibition, Liverpool, 1887 (New Pub-
lications), 650
Evorra tribe, 603
Eyre, Lake, 695
F.
Fabbicius, Captain, Norwegian coast and
deep-sea surveys in 1886, ^0
Fairweather, Mount, Alaska, height of,
279
Fallot, E., Par delk la M^terran^ (New
Publications), 649
Fastre Island, position of, 600, 606
Fatira, Wadi, 679
Fausek, Y. A., journey in the Knmo-
Manytoh lowlands, 429
Favenc, Ernest, Western Australia; its
Past History, &c. (New Publications),
719
Feddersen, M., on the former vegetation
of Iceland, 192,255
Fee river, Alaska, 273
Feilden, E. W., My African Home; or,
Bush Life in Natal when a Young
Colony (New Publications), 206
Feistmantel, Ottokar, The Fossil Flora of
some of the Coalfields in Western
Bengal, Geological Survey of India
(New Publications), 259
Felkin, R. W., Notes on the Waganda
Tribe of Central Africa (New Publica-
tions), 132
Ftog-tien or Liau-tung province, 531, 532
Fernandez, Captain, explorations of the
Aguaray-Guazu river, 581
Fernando Po, Herr O. Baumann's observa-
tions on the physical features ot, 623
Pdo, karte der Insel (New
Maps), 656
Ferrel, Prof. W., Recent Advances in
Meteorology (New Publications), 521
F^igny, I^ieut. de, Explorations of the
Mekong River, 774
303
INDEX.
Find lay, ^Tr., obeerrationa on the Gulf-
Finke river, AuBtralioi Mr* C. Cbewiag'a
journey h> llie »ourc«« of Ibe, 192
FiD&ch* Hr. O,, tlbur Nuturprodukte der
Wctfllichiu SQdsee, «lc. (^Nuw Piiblica-
tious), 7^2
Fischer^ Dr., expedition in Central Africa,
341
'^-^— ^ ni»8'erTati(*n8 on clmnge» of the
coast line in Northeni Africa, 242
tlifc Itite, expedition for the relief
of Dr. Junker, 45
UlancU 7
FitZ'Fatriek, Mr,, An Anlnmn Cruise in
the ilCjceaii (New PubljcatioDs), 323
Fitzroy rivt^r, Aostraliii, 095
Fionda, Explor&tionB on the West Cooat
of, and in the Okeeohobte Wildemcas,
by A. Hfiilprin (New Publications), 589
— Wiliinroa and BuelineU'a Now
Map of (New Mape), 724
Floyer, Ernefit A., Notes on a Sketcb Mftp
of two Koutea in the Eastern Deaeit of
E-cypt, &59 et seq.
Fori ieii» Anna, Ineulinde : Exjjerienc^^s of a
Nntiiraliat'g Wife in tb<t Eastern Archi*
pL<la;^rt (New PublieatiotiB), 778
H. O,, expedition m New GniDca,
508
Forei^ MitisionB^ Fifty yexirs of, by Georg«
Bmitb (New Publiciitions), 62
— — — Procee<liiifra of the
Geneml Conference on, held at Mihinmv
Park, 1878 (New PublieatimsX 61
Forelp Dr. F, A., Le Lao LeiuaD (New
PubliciitionsX 25S
Forrest, Hon- John, Geographical work in
WcRkm Austndia, 1&7U-1887, GUa
Eorfiyth, 8irT. Douglfla, Obituary of, 123
Forte&cue, G, K., A Subject Index of the
Mmiern Work« uddcd to the Library of
the Britisb Museum in the years IBSO^
85 (New Publications), 134
Fouxeau, IL, journey from Uorgla to El
Erg, 2(13
Fmnvrdu, Club Alpin, Anuuaire dii (New
Publications), 7PJ
Francop Album do Stfttibliiiue Gxnphiiiuo
de lS85(NewMai)s), 67
— — Carte d© (New Maps), 463, 591,
723
' Carte dee rivieres Bavij^ables et
dee eanaux executes (New Maps), 526
Carte geologiquo d<ftaill^ de la
(New Mapa)^ 591
-^- Carte-itinemire des voiea naviga-
blea de Ja (New Map«), 463
dans l*Afric|ue du Nord, l>y Lonia
VigTioo (New Publications), 64S>
Denombrenient de la |»opulrttion.
Ministire do Flnterieur (New Publica-
tions), ^586
Efjuinoxiflle, La, by H. A. Coa-
dreau (New Publications), 716
— -- — - L^Expanfiion Coloniulu de la, by
J. L Lancasan (New Publicationa)^ 60
France, population of, Dr. GMrvin on the,
204
Voiea Navigables. Mamiel dea
distaneev eomprides entre lea principaiix
pointa de cliaque voie (New Publica-
ti^ms), 57
France vJlJe, posit ion of, 189
Fraucis, F., Saddle and MociiflBin (New
Publications), 461
Franklurt a/0., 8peclalkarte dea Regie-
rungs- Bezirks (New JIapfi), 326
-*^ ■ -on-Main Geojrraphical S<^ety,
Prt)oeodiDg8 of» Decern ber*8tb, 18S0, 56
Frankreicb, rebersicbtfl-Karte von Nord-
ostliclien (New Maps), 137
Frazer, J. G., Totemism (New Publica-
tions), 783
French Census, Residta of the New, 53
expeditions in the interier of
gal, progress of tbe, 509
Hydrograpbic Clmrts (New Mapa),
329, 727
Freshiield, Douglaa W., aiad M. de Beehy,
visit to the Caucasus, 617, 767
Obituary of A. W. Moore^ 200
— remarks on the Alpine Regiozia
of Alaska, 280
— remarks on the Scope and
Methods of geograpby, 172
— " — Skeleton Diary of Six Weeks*
Travel in tlie Central Caucasus (New
Publtcationts), 777
Fritschc, M, Porta Ueographieal Society's
^old medal awarded to, 255
Frit3£8che, G. E., Nuovo AtlaateGeografioo
ad uao delle Scuole{Now Maps), 67
Frozen Soil in the Polar Regioos, Second
Report of a Commit ten lor inquiring
into the Depth of Ptrmanently, by
General Sir J. H. Li^froy, 769 tt s«q,
Fujinoyama Mountain, 87
Fuiford, H. E., Journey in Manchuria
(New Publications), 587
:
Gabklektz, Prof. G. von tier, The Lan-
guages of ftlelanesia (Now PubUcations),
59
Gallegoa river, Patagonia, 513
Gallieni, Lieut.-Colunel, 456
Galton, Francis, remarks on tlie Scope and
Methods of geography, 165
-- — — rtimBrks on the Alpine Regions of
Alaska, 285
remarks on Explorations in C^entml
Africa, 417
Gambia and Sierra Leone, Mr. Carter on
the climate of the, 240
Gambino, G., Delia Popcjlaritii o Difiuaione
degli Studi Geografici, &c. (New Pub-
licEitirna), 783
Gamble, J. G., Catalogue of printed hooka
and papers relating to South AtWca:
Part II. Climate rmtl Meteorology (New
Publioationa), 320
INDEX.
803
Gamble, J. G., Altitudes above Sea-level of
Places in South Africa, collected by
(New Publications), 320
Gand, Plan de, par J. Kips (New Maps),
326
Gaultier, J., Carte murale de TAlgdrie et
de la Tnnisie, dressde par, et dessin^e
par A. Cu^not (New Maps), 724
Geikie, Dr. A., on geology in relation to
geography, 146, 147
The Scenery of Scotland, viewed
in connection with its Physical Gkology
(New Publications), 710
Gele, Captain van. Explorations of the
Mobangi river, 440
Geneva, Lake of, depth of, 686
Geodetic Association, International (New
Publications), 524
Geographical Education in Elementary'
Schools, B.G.S.'s prizes for the improve-
ment of, 757
in Germany, pro-
gress of, 250
— India, Mr. M.
Meeting of the
British Association Committee on, 120
-Il.G.S/sCollection,
J. Odgers on, 687
764
• Etymology, by C. Blackie
(New Publications), 783
Publications, New —
Africa, 58, 132, 206, 260, 317, 393, 459,
519, 587, 649, 7i3» 779
Amm-ica, 58, 1S3, 207,261,320,393, 460,
520, 588, (15tS 715,780
Arotic, 2G3, 322, 52i
Asia. 57, 130, 205, 259, 316, 392, 459,
518, 586, G48, 712, 778
AufltnUn^is, 59, 208, 322, 394, 522, 589,
650, 718
Europe, 57. 129, 205, 258, 315, 392, 458,
517, 586, 648, 709, 777
General, 59, 134, 263, 322, 394, 462, 523,
590, 651, 719, 783
Oceania, 59, 322, 523, 651. 719, 782
Geographie, Zeitschrift fiir Wissenschaft-
liche, herausgegeben von J. I. Kettler
(New Publications), 263
Geograpbische Abhandlungen, Hefle 1
und 2, herausgegeben von Prof. Dr. A.
Penck (New Publications), 129
Geographischen Provinzen, Zur Lehre von
den, by A. Bastian (New Publications),
822
Gkographischer Namen, Etymologisches
Worterbuch, by A. Thomas (New Publi-
cations), 324
Geo<rraphisches Jahrbuch (New Publica-
tions), 394
Geography at the Brussels Exhibition, 764
. Universities, The Teach-
ing of. by H. J. Mackinder, 698
• 0)mmercial. by K. B. Murray
(New Publications), 652
Statistical Atlas
of, by E. J. Hastings (Now Maps), 790
Geography, Establishment of a Readership
of, at Oxford University, 239, 2M
of Britain, The Beginning of
the, by Prof. Boyd Dawkios, 696
- Readership of, at Oxford and
Cambridge Universities, Conferences on
the Establishment of a, 188
- The Realistic Teaching of, by
W. Jolly (New Publications), 651
- R.G.S.'s proposals for the esta-
blishment of lecturers on, at the Oxford
and Cambridge Universities, 338, 334
■ The Scope and Methods of; by
H. J. Mackinder, 141 et seq.
the Teaching of, 629 et seq,
- the Teaching of, Letter from
W. Rheam on, 121
• the Teaching of, R.G.S. s pro-
posals for the. at the Oxford and Cam-
bridge Universities, and the Education
Department, 333, 334
- Uncrowded Atlas of Political,
by T. R. Johnston (New Maps), 658
George, Captain C, Obituary of, 126
German and English territories in East
Africa, new boundaries of^ 188
Census, Results of the New, 53
East African Association, Expedi-
tions of, 47
" Geographentag "
310
at Karlsruhe,
Missionary Society for East
Africa, 496
> Protectorates in East Africa, ex-
tent of, 493
- treaties in East Africa, 491
Germany, progress of geographical educa-
tion in, 250
Gerrit Denys Island, 7
Gestola, Mount, 767
Ghainsh^, Tibet. 747
Gibson, J., Great WaterfaIls,Cataracts, and
Geysers, described and illustrated (Now
Publications), 523
Giesecke, H., murder of, 417
Gilder, ()olonel, explorations in the Arctic
regions, 246
Giles, Ernest, journey across Western
Australia, 694, 695
Pearoe, The true Source of the Mis-
sissippi (New Publications), 262, 716
Glacier Bay, Alaska, 118
Gladman, George, on depth of frozen soil
at York Factory, 772
Glagolcf. M., expedition in Bokhara, 434
Glaser, Eduard, Siidarabische Streitfragen
vom Forschungsreisenden (New Publi-
cations), 712
Glazier, Captain, and his Lake, by H. D.
narrower (New Publications), 58
Down the Great River; embracing
an account of the discovery of the true
source of the Mississippi, &c. (New
Publications), 717
• voyage of exploration to the source
of the Mississippi river, map illustrative
of(New Maps), 211
INDEX.
Globe, Tlio Climat«8 of the, Genend de
Tillo on, 763
Gobi, Desert of; M. Potanin's joimiey
aoL-ufis tbe, 442
Gold amid, 8ir F., renwirks on a Journey
through Yemen, 489
Ohituury €i( Colonel Sir J. V.
Batemftii Cbampftin, 196
• — ^^ on the relations of geography
am! history, 142
— — lemarkij oa the Scope and
Mt:'lhoila of ipjeogruphy^ 162
Goliki tHlie» Tibef, *22ti
tiordun, K., on the Irawadi river, 39, 35&,
Gore, Captain, Afghan stifveya, 574
Gouin, M., work on the Upper Red River
and affluunt^, :U2
GianviLle, Dr. Doyle, remarks on Explora-
tion» in Soiith-t"ai»k'rn New Guinea, 85
Gravenrenth. Lieut, liaron too, journey
up the rangani, 56
Gravier, Gabriel, Paul Soleillet *d Voyaged
Stgou 1878-79, rodige d*apiva lea iiutea
ct joumaui par (New PHhlicationa),
714
Giay» A.,Tho Voyage of F. Fyrard of La vnl,
ttanalateti by (New PublicatioiiB)» 5^0
Great Britain : Handbook for Travellers,
by K, Bat'dektT (New PublicationaX 703
Gree<5e, An Etister Vacation in, by J. E.
Sandys (New Publications), 315
— Rarublea and Studies in, by J* P,
MahaflTy (New Publication b), 25g
Green, J, R,, an*l Alice Blopfonl, A Short
Geography of the British Islanda (Kew
PublicatiouaX 136
Greenland ObserrationB Internationaloa
Pokireis, Exiiedition Danoiae (New
Publiciilkins), 322
' ^— fKfpulatioo of, M. IL Biangated
mi tlie, 312
Grenfell, Re? G., 681
— explomtions of the thbutariea of
the Congo, 23f>, 298, 338
^ Patron^s Medal awarded by, 311,
452
— remarks on receiving Patron's
Medal, 454
GrieeliiBch'Romischen Welt, Die Bevol-
kerung^ ^ler, by Dr. J. Belooli (New
PuliljcationA), 462
Oriflitb, Dr,, aacent of the Lohit river, 355
GronjbcbefBki, Captain, explorationa in
Chinese Turk is tan » 508
Groum-GrjimaliH M., progre^ of expedi-
tion in the Eastern Pamir, 54, 430. 481
Guatemala, Dire^ttjrio dtj hv Ciudad de^
cotnpilado por la Direccion (jeneral do
Esttidifitica (New PublicatiouB), 460
the land of the Quetzal, by
W. T. Briirham (New Publications!
780
Guaj'fw^uil (Ecuador), Piano de, per Dr.
T. Wolf (Ni^w Maps), 464
Guerrieo, Mount, Patagonia, height ajid
pofiitioQ lif, 3B4
Gniana, Lateat CerrespondeDoe on the
Question of Limitaof (Ne w Publlcatiotu).
717
— — progreta of Dr. Tea Kate*8 jotuney
in, 55
Guide, Alocmtt Patagonia, height and posl-
tioD of, 384
Quilleinard, F. H. H., The Cruiae of the
Maralteta to Kanitrcbatka and New
Guinea, &q. (New Publications), 2G4
Guinea, M. Baa dtn'e journey in, 190
Upper J Dr. Kra use's explorations
in, 760
Guini^ Carte de U delimitation Franoo*
Portugaiao on, par E. Desbniasona (New
Slaps), 211
Qulf-Htteam, M, J, Thoulet's ohaervationa
on the, 762
Sur le, by Prince Albert de
Monaco (New Publications), 322
Gumpret^ht, Otto, Der Mittlere iBOuto nnd
ffein Vcrbaltnifijj mm Natisoue (New
Pubiieations), 711
Gnppy, H B.,The Botomoa laknds, and
their nntivt-s (New Publications), 782
Guricb, Dr. G., Geologidche 8kii«e von
Afrika (New Hiipa), €56
Gnyuua, Kaart van de Kuat van (New
Maps), 727
Gnyot, A., Tables, Meteorological and
Physical (New PublicationsX 521
Gkcier, The Great, Alaaka, 270
Haari>t, Vnmons v., XTebeniohtakarte
der cthnographi&ohen Vcrhiltniaae vxwi
A«ien, Jkc. (New Maps), 266
Haaat, Sir Juliua Von, Obituary of, 687
Hadhramout et lea Colonies Arabee dans
FArchipel Indien, Le, by L. W. (3. Van
den Berg (New Publications), 518
Hadramaut, 489
Hagen, Dr. B., Bapport iiber eine im
Bezember 1883 unttrnorainene wifisen-
scbaftliche Reise an den LobarSee
(Central Sumatra) (New Publicationi),
71H
Hager, Carl, Die Marshal Mnaftln» in Eid-
uud Viilkerkunile, Hiindel und Blesseti
(New Publieationa), 322
'- Kfti&er Wilttehns'Lanil und der
Bj8taarck*Archipel (New Publications),
208
Haifa, or Life in Mt:>dem Palestine, by
L. Oliphaut (New Publications), 8ia
Haig, Colonel C T,, Survey of India,
8pirit-leveled Heights, Madras and
Bombay Presideuoiea and Ni^am'^s Do-
minions (New PublieatJons), 451*
Major-General F, T., A Journey
through Yemen, -179 et scq,
Report of a Joumi^y to the Red Sea
Porta, Jk^mali-Land, and 8outhem and
Eastern Arabia (New PubrLcationfl)^
0-49
INDEX.
805
Hainan, Island of, B. G. Henry's exploia-
tions in the, 378
Hall, Maxwell, on the height of Bine
Mountain Peak, Jamaica, 579
Hallett, Holt S., remarks on the Expedi-
tion from Upper Assam to the Lrawadi,
&a,41
Haloxylon ammodendron, 216
Hami oasis, and people of, 217 note
Hami lown, 748
Hamns-Halbinsel, Zur Kunde der, by W.
Tomaschek (New Publications), 712
Hanusz, E., La Lutte de I'Existence des
Plantes dans les Pnsztas Hongroises
(New Publications), 711
Hardman, E. J., 696
Hari-rud, source of the, 575
narrower, H. D., Captain Glazier and his
Lake (New Publications), 58
Hartmann, G. H., and G. Hunter, ascent
of the Owen Stanley Bange, 621, 767
Harvard GoUege Observatory's proposed
astronomical obseryatorieson high moun-
tains, 249
Harz, Neueste Earte vom, von G. Diercke
und E. Gaebler (New Maps), 591
Hassenstein, B., Atlas yon Japan (New
Maps), 530
Hastings, E. J., Statistical Atlas of Gom-
mercial Geography (New Maps), 790
Hauser, C!aptain P., Die Aequator-Durch-
gauge des Mondes (New Publications),
134
Haut-Daupbin^ Guide du, by W. A. B.
O)olidge, K. Duhamel, and F. Perrin
(New Publications), 710
Havre et ses Environs, par L. Leblanc
(New Maps), 655
Hawaiian Islands, Map of the (New Maps),
725
Hawash, The Upper, Dr. Traversi's expe-
dition to the, 627
Hawes, Mr., on new Gentral African lake,
439
Hayes river, depth of frozen soil in the bed
of, 769, 770
Haynes, Gaptain G. E., Matabeleland and
the country between the Zambesi and
the Limpopo, 692
Hazarah tribe, 103
Heawood, Edward, letter from, on the
lengths of the greatest rivers in the
world, 252
Hedges, W., Diary of, transcribed by B.
Bfurlow, and illustrated by extracts by
Golonel Yule (New Publications), 587
Helgoland, Plan der Insel, von F.
Aeuckens (New Maps), 265
Heilprin, A., Explorations on the West
Goast of Florida and in the Okeechobee
Wilderness (New Publications), 589
Hekla, Mount, height and temperature of,
52
Henderson, Gaptain, W. H., remarks on
Explorations in South-eastern New
Guinea, 81, 86
Henning, Gaptain, on Ghina and Korea, 56
Henry, B. G., explorations in the Island of
Hainan, 378
Hess, H., Hlnstrirter Fiihrer durch die
ZiUerthaler Alpen und die Bieaerfemer-
Gruppe (New Publications), 711
Hetherwick, Bev. A., on the Mang'anja
and Yao tribes, 114
Heize], G., Plan von Leipzig (New Maps),
463
Himalayan District of the North-western
Provinces of India, by E. S. Atldnson
(New Publications^ 586
Historical Geography of the British Golo-
nies, Introduction to an, by G. P. Lucas
(New Publications), 652
Hoango-ho or Yellow river, 227, 228
Hobarttown oder Sommerfrische in den
Antipoden, by Prince Ludwig Salvator
of Austria (New Publications), 522
Hobday, Captain, survey of Upper Burma,
308, 575, 576
Hoche, Julcj, Les Pays des Croisades (New
Publications), 316
Hodeida, 480
Hofrat copper-mine, 294
Holdich, Colonel, Afghan surveys, 574
Founder's Medal awarded to, 311,
452
Obituary of Sir Gharlee Bl
MacGregor, 194
remarks on receiving Founder's
Medal, 453
Holme, B. F., a journey in the province ot
San Paulo, Brazil, in July-September,
1885, 108 et seq.
Hood, Mount, Oregon, height of, 271
Here, Annie B., To Lake Tanganyika in a
Bath Chair (New Publications), 58
Homliman, Herr J., on the depth of Swiss
lakes, 686
Horowitz, y. J., Marokko. Das Wesent-
liohste und Interessanteste iiber Land
und Leute (New Publications), 260
Hort, Mrs. A., Yi^ Nicaragua, a sketch of
travel (New Publications), 320
Houghton, Major, a note on, the African
explorer, by Major Sir H. Perrott, 693
Howard, Lieut., progress of journey across
North Alaska, 308
Howorth, H. H., The Mammoth and the
Flood (New Publications), 784
remarks on Prejevalsky's jour-
neys and discoveries in Central Asia,
230
remarks on a journey in Man-
churia, 567
Huasteco tribe, Vera Cruz, 568, 570
Huber, M., on the Simplon tunnel^ 203
Hue, Abbe, on the Lu river, 368
Hudson's Bay Expedition of 1886, Beport
of the, under the command of Lieut.
A. B. Gordon (New Publications), 717
Hujjela, 481
Hulan town, Manchuria, 236, 552
Hull, Edward, Mount Seir, Sinai, and
Western Palestine (New Publications),
259
806
lIun-OliiftDK rivcr^ 53^
Iluiirlmn tnwn» 557» 558
Hijnter^ Ca|)tjiin» 16
— G., ami V. IL Hartranim* ftBoent
of Uwcii Stttnley Riuig:©. <j21, 7€7
Hiioii iiTuir, New Guinea. OOf*
Hurjjroiiji?, Dr. S,. extracts from the pper
on kk &ix months' rt'flideQee la Meccu,
257
Hartig, A., Vhn von Pmg nad Urage-
bun;^ (New Maps), 5H2
llvdrrahod, Kaslimir, Sikkiro, and Nciml,
Joarrjttlfl k<^pi in, by Sir Hiciinrd Tempi©
( New PublictttmnH), 303
LUlAHlMlYAil CaNAK 61-1
Iceland, Dr, Lu bonne's jonrney across, 52
II. Ft'dilcrsen ou tJiy tbrmer vege-
tatioo of, 102, 25r>
Iry Bay, Alueka, 271. 276
Ignntief, J. V., eicx^dition in CeDlral Asia,
425
IgQuliev, M.* progrena of expedition in tlie
Ti&Q Slinn^ 5i
Hi, valley of th«» vej^etation of, 426
Ilyammri, Mount, Ahiaka, 278
rncliiki river, Tibet, 730
Inooniati route lo the Transvaal, 497,
501
Inde Anghii§e, L\ son etat nctuel — Boti
metnr, by J. Bartbelemy-St. Hilair©
(Now FublicalionB), 587
India, Account of tho Operati^na of the
Great Trigonometrical Survey of, Prin-
cipid IVinngulntion of the Joilhpore
(New Publication^!), 518
Geographical Education in, IL J.
Odgera on. 687
• MemoirB of the Geolr.p;ical Survey
of. Sen XIL and XIII. (New Puhlim-
tionB), 2511
Mn Bbuiford on the influence of
foretta on the climate in, 191
physical geoL-rrvpliy of, 15R
Heport to the Sccretaiy of State for,
in Council on tli<? Reeordg of ihe India
Office, by F* C. Dmivera (New Publica-
tions), 462
Rubber, Gutta Percha, and Tde*
graph Worka Cbrnp«ny, 8onndingd taken
by the (New Pubiieatinna). G^ili
South J Mitisioiiij in, visited and de-
i^criljcd, by Joteph Blulleiia (New Publi-
catEon»)« 61
Statistieal Alias of (New Mapfl),
729
Survey of, Kpirit-leveled Heights, by
Colonel C. T. Haig (New PubHeationa)*
45tt
The Dawn of British Trtwle to, as
j-ecpnled in the C^inrt Minutes of the
Eaet India Cbmpajiy, 1591^-1003, by H.
Stevens and Sir George Bird wood (New
Pablications), ISO
IndiiH The Hishlanda of, by ^ilfljor-Gcueral
D. J* F. Ncwall (New Pubhcatious),
713
The Hiraalaynn District of the
North- western Provineoa of, by E. S-
Atkioson (New Publications), 586
Indian Custe, by the late John AVilaon
(New Publications), 62
— — — Government Survey Ma[is (New
Maps). 138, 266, 527
Baees of the 8tate of Vera CniJt,
Mexicoi, The Aboriginal, by A. Baker »
568 ift seq.
Survey) pregramme of current
season, 116
Snfveys, 1885-6, 574
Indies, West, and Panama, Jottings on
the, by A* Radford (New PohlicatioasX
461
Indischcu Archipt^lKgo, Das Le1>en in der
Tropenxono, H|>«eiell im, nacti Dr. Van
der Bui'ff'a *De geneesher in Kedcf-
landsch-Indie ' (New Publico tiouiX
712
Indon^ vilhip, 21, 22
I no TaJdayoshi's declination, &0
Insnlinde: Fxperieoces of a Natur&lUt*i
Wife in the Eastern Archipelago, by
Anna Forbes (New Publications), 778
International Polar Observations (New
Publications), 263^ 522
Inyaek island, 500
Ipaivaitani's temple or dul>u, 78, 79
Irawadi^ and brauohea of, 365, 369
excessive rainfall at the source of,
37,38
Journey of ihe Expedrticm under
Colonel Woodthorpe from Upper Aaeam
to the^ and Return over the Patkol Range,
by Major C. R. Macgregor, 19 et ieq.
sources of, 352 ft toj.
Ireland, Pocket Atla.«! of, by J, Bartbolo>
mew (New l^Iaps), 658
Isonzo, Dor Mittlere, und sein Vefbaltxiisa
znm Natisune^bv Otto Gumprecht(New
Publieiiitiona), 711
Italia, Carta d\ da Carlo C^rri (New
Maps), 4G3
Carta del Regno d* (New Maps),
Gran Saeso d'. Carta Topografic*
265
del (New Maps), 326
Italiane, Carta delJe Stnid« Fenute (New
Maps), 137
Italy: Handbook fur Travellers, by K.
Baedeker (New Publicatietis), 315
Itasca, Lake, 119
Itimbiri or L^iika river, 288, 291
Iv&nof, M., 431
Jack, R. L., (Seographical Slap of Queens*
htnd (New Maps), 593
Report on the Argentine (Star)
Silver Mines, Kennedy District, Queens-
land (New Publications), 589
INDEX.
807
Jackson, T. G., Dalmatia, the Qnamero,
and I{>tria, with Gettigne in MoDtenegro
and the Island of Grade (New Publica-
tions), 648
Jamaica at the Royal Jubilee Exhibition,
Liverpool. 1887, by C. W. Eves (New
Publications), 650
Mr. Hall on the height of Blue
Mountain Peak in, 579
The Handbook of, by A. C. Sin-
clair and L. R. Fyfe (New Publica-
tions), 59, 717
James, G. P., Expedition of, from the
Chanchamayo in Peru to the Atlantic,
communicated by 0. R. Markham, 505
H. E. M., A Journey in Manchuria,
531 et seq.
Younghusband, and Fulford,
Messrs., Journey in Northern and
Eastern Manchuria, 235
Jan Mayen, Die Oesterreichische Polar-
station, vom Gapitan von Wohlgemuth
(New Publications), 263
Japan, AlLis von (New Maps), 530
Imperial University, Journal of
the College of Science (New Publica-
tions), 524
mountain system of, 91
nnch Reison und Studien, im Auf-
trage der K. Preussischen Regierung
dargestellt, by Prof. J. J. Rein (New
Publications), 130
The Language, Mythology, Ac, of,
by B. H. Chamberlain, with an Ainu
Grammar by J. Batchelor (New Publica-
tions), 316
The Physical Geography of. with
remarks on the people, by Dr. Edmund
Naumann. 86 et seq,
Japanese Homes and their Surroundings,
by E. S. Morse. Peabody Academy of
Science (New Publications), 459
language, The. 101
Japan ische Inselwelt, Die, by Dr. E,
Naumann (New Publications), 587
Jarintsof, M., on cliff formations along the
coast of tlie Black Sea, 431
Java, Eaart van het Eiland (New Maps),
728
Jhering, Dr. K. v., voyage up the River
Camacuam, South Brazil, 686
Jiddama, 681
Jiroseh, 677
Jinglils Khan invasion of Central Asia,
230
Jing-ri Mountiiins, 228
Johnston, T. R., Uncrowded Atlas of
Politiciil Geography (New Maps), 658
• W. &"A. K., Commercial Chart
of the World on Mercator's Projection
(New Maps), 786
Jolly, W., The Realistic Teaching of Geo-
graphy (New Publications), 651
Jones river, Alaska, 272
Jub river, 492
Jubilee Address to H.M. the Queen,
R.G.S.'s, 438
Jubilee river. New Guinea, 576, 604
Juhlke, Dr., 491, 492
Karl, Die Erwerbungr des Kilima-
Nscharo-Gebiets (New Publications),
715
Junker, Dr., and the (Welle) 3Iakun.
Between the Nile and the Congo, by J.
T. Wills, 285 et seq.
arrival of, 47, 304
explorations in Central Africa,
204, 288, 289, 399 et seq,
reception of, at Berlin Geograph-
ical Society, and lecture oa his travels,
313. 314
remarks on explorations in Central
Africa, 420
the late Dr. Fischer's expedition
for the relief of, 45
Justinian, On the Buildings of, by Pro-
oopius. Translated by A. Stewart and
annotated by Sir C. W. Wilson, Pales-
tine Pilgrims' Text Society (New Pub-
lications), 323
Jusuf or Yusuf, Bahr, 608, 614
K.
Kabtlie, Carte de la Grande, et d'uno
Partie de la Mcdjana (New Maps),
211
Kaimondake volcano, Japan, 100
Kaiser Wilhelms-Land und der Bismarck-
Archipel, von C. Hager (New Publica-
tions), 208
Kakibbi or Dueru river. Central Africa.
440
Kala Sofarak fort, 103
Kam or Kham trilie, Tibet, 228
Kamard valley, 105
Kamerun, Reise in der Hinterlande der
Kolonie, by Dr. B. Schwarz (New Pub-
lications), 320
Skizzen und Betracbtungen, by
Max Buchner (New Publications), 714
Kam pen. Alb. de, Tabulse maximss quibus
illustrantur terrse vetcrum, in usum
scholarum, Italia and Gallia (New
Maps), 398
Kampti tribe, 22
Kamschatka and New Guinea, The Cruise
of the Marches! to. &c.. by P. H. H.
Guillemard (New Publications), 264
Kappler, A., Surinam, sein Land, seine
Natur, Bevolkerung und seine Kultur-
Yerh'altnisse, mit Bezug auf Kolonisa-
tion (New Publications), 133
Kara-daria river, 435
Kurakol, 424 noU
Kara-kum desert, 626
Karashalir town, Tibet, 736
Karens of Burma, The Loyal, by D. M.
Smeaton (New Publications), 206
Karlsruhe, German "Geogranhentag" at,
310
Karm Allah, Emir, letter from, to Dr
Junker, 413
808
INDEX.
KiiTT, H. W, 8i?tou^ SUores ftnil Alps of
Alaska (New Publications), 4^10
Ka*hgaria^ C:i|jtaiii Grtjinbchefflki's explo-
ri\lioE8 in, 508
KusoDge town, 50
Kiiaaal river, 337, 338, 734, 77r»
Kzisaai, irpperi anil Sankuru, Esplorationa
on tlip, by Dr. Ludvvig Wolf^ 640 et stt^.
Kate, Dr. Ten, progreiB of journey m
Giiiana, 55
Kaokasui, Der vmd seine Volker, by B.
von Ertjkcrt (New Pablications), 518
Kdvlrondo Loogtiai^c, Vcicabulary of tbe,
by Rot, M. WakLfluld (New Publica-
tions), 588
Eazbekf Mount, btiprht of, 767
Keane, Prof. A, il,, Eastern Geography,
A Geograpby of the Maky Peninanla,
&C» (New PublicatioDs), 524
— The Karth and the Ocexm, by
E, RecluR, edited by (New Publica-
lions), 263
Ke ban -in Oil den, 42[) noU
Keller, H,, Keisokarte der Schwdz (New
Maps), 655
KeniRh, town of, 667
— — to Koikseir, route from, €61
Kerry-Nichols. Mr., jemarks on Explora-
tions in South-L astern Now Guinea, S5
Keeaelmeyer, C. A., retnarks on a Plea for
Ihi? Meter, 707
Kettle, W. R., A few Notes on tbe Island
of St. Mjcliael» Azores, and A ReiTr>rt on
the Artificial HarbouT of Fontu Delgnda,
St Micliflel (New PublicationeX 2U5
KettUr, J, L, Zeitaehrift lur Wisfien-
achaftlicbc Gwigraphie, bemnsgegebon
van (New PubliLiitiona), 263
Khan TeDgri Motintaina, 424
Kharput, 429 note
Khoten oaaiB, population of, 229, 230
river, 229, 230
towD, 7M
Kbor Ambftf^n, Ij62
Khuieeb Thalftr, Originfllkarte des Ua-
teren, ron F. M. Btapff (New Maps),
529
Kibcingi^ A Tooabnlary of, aa apoken by the
Babaiigi on ibe Up|jer Congo from Kiva
Mouth to Llb<iko, l»y A, SiniM (New
Fiiblicationa), 133
Kibo. Mount, height of, 682
Kilxiko or Kushoko tribe, 754
Kibonge town, 411
Kiepert, R., l»r. R. Bobm'a und P.
Richard'a Routenaufnahmeii zwischen
detu Tanganika-See und clem Lnsilabu,
eonstruirt vun (Kuw Maps), 328
• H., tTebersichtakjirte der Ver-
bi^itnug derDeutschon in Europe (New
M»p8), 786
KikuDJi Mis, Quango river, 239
Kilimanjaro, Dr. H. 5Ieyer'tf aacent of»682,
708, 766
KiUma-Xiicharo-Gfibiets, Die Erwerbung
del*, by Kail Jiiblke(New Publieationaj,
715
Kilkiv&n and Black Snake, Report mi the
Geology and Mineral Rcsonrces of the
Difltricts of (New Publieationa), 59
Kilpin, E. F., Cape of Gmxi Hope Civil
Servie^ Eiat, 1887, and Civil Service
Coltrndar, 1887, edited by (New Publi-
cations), 2bD
Kimbundo or Muene Kiluata, ehief, 755
Kingani river, 404
Kinguft Fjord, 522
Ki|:>8, J,, Plan de Brages et de Bmxellet
(New Mape), 325
Plan d© Oftnd (New Blaps), 326
Kiraifi tribe, Tibet,* 230
Klrchlioff, Alfr^f Einleitung in die Ukn-
derkunde von Europa (New Publica-
tionaX71l
— Unaer WiBsen von der Erde
(New Publicfttionft), 653
Kiria town and river, 733
Kiriti, town of, 549
Kirishimayama, volcaoic group, 99
Kitabi, ptnaition of, 189
Kiteke. A Vocabulary of the, as spoken by
the Bat eke (Batio) and kindred tribeli
on the Upper Congo, by A. Slnid (New
PublicatioiiB), 58
Kit tar valley and waterfall, 670. 672, 673
Kiwa Pori t^i ibo, 601
Kizuata-Hhito tribe, 756
Klein-Asien, by P, de Tchihatchef (New
Publieationa), 519
Klementa, D», Drevnosti Minis^inskago
Mueeya (New Publications), 459
Klunzinger, Herr, 6U0, {>(i2
Koko-ahili, or Blue Range, 224 note
Koner, I'lofeufior, death of, 707
Kongo, Die Nebendusat) des mittlem (New
Maps), 64
^^ L4ingange,Diotionary and Grammar
of tlio, (tc, by Rev. W, H. Bontley (New
Fnblicatiiins), 58
Tre Ar i, by P. Moller, G. Pagela,
oeh E. Gleerup (New Publi(jfttion»i), 261
Korii^'hin, M., Obaervatioua 0n the Attak
Oaala acid tbe lYanBrCa&pLan Detierts,
625
Konshine, M., journey in Traii«ca«pian
muiitry, 430, 431
Kopa river, Gentnd Asia, 426 note
Kcishtaijlau, Mount, 619, 767
Koeloi; P., 431
Kosseir and Koptoa (Kuft), old trade
route between, 661, 662
Kotehiy, Island of, Baron von TolFg ex-
l>loration of, 577, 578
Kraauoff, M., progreaa of expedition in
KusMian TurkiAUvn, 51, 54, 425, 426
and M. Ignatief, ootea on ex-
plorations in the neighbourhood of Lnko
Balkaah, 116
Kranae, Dr., ExplorationB in Uppet
Guinea, 760
journey in the regionii of the
Upper Niger, 510
K re itner, Captain, 365
Krick, Abbe, journeya to Tibet, 355, 356
INDEX.
809
Kuchar town, 750
Kuckenthal, Dr., explorations in Spitz-
bergen, 515
Euen-ltin Bange, 228
Kuisip river, 511
Enjipoii village, 185
Kuku-khoto, 233
KtCmki, 19
valley, 26
Emno-Manytch lowlands, 429 note
Kiind and Tappenbeck, Lieutenants, ex-
plorations of the Congo region, 338
Eunnnng tribe, 31
Kurla town, Tibet, 737
Enroshiwo warm current, 98
Eurtu river, Central Asia, 426 note
Euta river, 291, 292
Ewango river, 707, 708
Labonne, Dr., journey across Iceland, 52
Labrador, Rev. E. J. Peck's journey across,
192
Lagos, A Sketch Survey of the Inland
Water Communication in the Colony of
(New Maps). 529
LcUiontan, Lake, North-western Nevada,
Geological History of, by I. Cook Bus-
sell. United States Geographical Sur-
vey (New Publications), 321
Lallemant, Sr. German Avb, Estudio
Orogrrafico en la Cordillera de Mendoza,
Ac. (New Publications), 715
Lanessan, J. L. De, La Tnnisie (New
Publications). 649
L'Expansion Coloniale de la
France (New Publications), 60
Langnu, 30
Lao-pai Shan or Old White Mountain,
541. 542
La Perouse, Mount, Alaska, height of, 279
Last, J. T., Expedition in East Africa, 340
Exploration of the Namuli Hills,
188
Journey of, from Blantyre to the
Namuli Hills, 42
On the Sixjiet/s Expedition to the
Namuli Hills, East Africa, 467 et seq,
Laura, the, 684
Laveleye, Emile do. La P^ninsule des
Balkans, and transltition of. by Mrs.
Thorpe (New Publications), 315
Lawcs, Rev. W. G., 71
Lawrence, E., The Progress of a Century ;
or the Age of Iron and Steam (New
Publications), 134
Laws, Bev. B., and Mrs., The Tshigunda
Language of the Lower Zambesi Begiou,
East Africa (New Publications), 58
Table of Concords and Paradigm
of Verb of the Chinyanja Language, as
spoken at Lake Nyassa (New Publica-
tions), 58
Ijeblanc, L., Le Havre et sea Environs
(New Maps), 655
Lefroy, General Sir J. H., Second Beport
of a Committee for inquiring into the
Depth of Permanently Frozen Soil in
the Polar Begions, 769 et seq,
Lebour, G. A., Outlines of the Geology
of Northumberland and Durham (New
Publications), 57
Leipzig, Plan von, von G. Hetzel (New
Maps), 463
Leketi, position of, 189
Leman, Le Lac, by Dr. F. A. Forel (New
Publications), 258
Lena, Mouth of the, Bussian Polar Station
at the (New Publications), 522
Lendenfeld, Dr. B. von, Boutes in South-
east Australia (New Maps), 529
The Glacial Period in Aus-
tralia (New Publications), 208
Lenz, Dr. O., arrival of, 1 14
expedition for the relief of Dr.
Junker, 49, 190, 240, 340
Leocadie Islands, New Guinea, 72
Leopoldville, position of, 190
Lepper, M. C. H., remarks on the Lu river
of Tibet, &c., 373
Levant, Visit to Monasteries in the, by
Hon. B. Curzon (New Publications), 264
Levasseur, Prof. E., Tables of the Popula-
tion of the Earth, 763
Level, A. A., Nomenclator de Venezuela
contentivo de su censo en orden alfiei-
bc'tioo (New Publications), 526
Leyst, E., Eatalog der meteorologischen
Beobachtungen in Bussland und Finn-
land (New Publications), 458
Liakov, Island of. Dr. Bunge's explorations
of, 577,578
Liau-tung province, 562
or Feng-tien province, 531, 532
Libanon. Grundlinien der Pbysischen
Geographic und Geologic von Mittel-
Syrien, von Dr. C. Diener (New Publi-
cations), 259
Library of B.G.S., Beport of the, 451
Libreville, position of, 189
Likangala river. Central Africa, 177
Limbi, Lake, Central Africa, 43, 439
Linguistic and Oriental Essays, written
from 1847-87, by B. N. Cust (New
Publications), 720
Lingzi-tang plateau, Tibet, 352
Linwin river, 40
Lista,'M. Bamon, expedition to Tierra del
Fuego, 384
Litete's village. Central Africa, 180
Lituya Bay, Alaska, 279
Liveleze river, 185
Livingstonia mission station, 182, 183
Loango, i)osition of, 189
Lob district, people of, 737
Lob, Lake, Prejevalsky*s visit to, 214
Lob-nor lake, 229
Lockyer, J. Norman, Outlines of Physio-
graphy. The Movements of the Earth
(New PublicationsX 720
Loczy, Herr, on the Mekong river, 368,
364
^^^V IKDEIX. ^H
^^^^H Lofnden bank, Norwegian coa&t» extent of,
Maegregor, Major C. R., rctnarks on the 1
^^^H
Expedition from Upper Assam to tho 1
^^^^H Lo^^oo river^ 208
Irawadi. kc 40 J
^^^^H Loll it Bmhmaputm liver, 3G0
MatGregor, Sir C. M., Obituary of, 194 ^J
^^^H Loika (or [tinibm ) rh'er, 288, 201 , 298
Maekenzie river, leugtli of, 120', 253 ^^M
^^^^^1 XxikcDje, LicHi teo an t Tappenbeck's jou tnej
Mftckinnon, Rev. J,, South African Tndte ^^M
^^^^H down 115
(New Publications), 519 ^H
^^^^H liOiJiami rivt r, 644
Mackinder, H, J., Fippointment of, as '^^|
^^^^H Lotidou, CentnJ, Essfiye on the Slireet Be^
Reader of Geograjdiy at Oxford. 437
^^^^^H alignment, HeconKtrucHon, ami SuDita-
^^^^^H tiou of, and on the lit') i oust ng of the
.■■..OlI^ «K. -B^ ^-,* i j-v M i^HI* l*>4*^ A .n «■ m\*m-f^^^
• ~ course oi lecturca jor i-'jtiijTti
University, 681
^^^^H Poorer ClauBea (Nt w Fublicatiim^), 57
remarks on the Scoi>e and
^^^^^H . Meaoti and Pa^iie'a Popnlar Map
Methods of fioograpliy, 100, 174
^^^H of (New Maps). 5!}1
Tbe Scope and MethoJa of
^^^^H Lcn^'iikttnd* 8 billing Gkography (Kew
Greograph3% 141 rt taf.
^^^^H rnblicfitions), 720
— '■ — The Teacbing of Geo-
^^^^^H Loi^n(;o Marqnes, 504
graphy at the Univeraitiea, 698
^^^H Lubllosh river, G43
Madagascar, Mnpof, by Captain S. Po&field ^h
^^^^^1 LncBS, G. V^f Introd action to tin Iliatorical
Oliver (New i^Iapn), 04 ^^M
^^^^^1 Geography af tbe Brillak Colonies (New
^^^H PublicatiooHX ^^^
Madagaiikara, SariU'Tattiny (New ^lapsX ^^1
^M
^^^^^M Lucerne, Lake, depth of, 68B
MaJimola efation. East Africa, 494 ^H
^^^^H l^nt^^ti ct Ffikouan, h3^ Alfred Mnrehe
Mabaffy, J. P., Kamhlps and Studies in ^^B
^^^H (New FublicAtioQsX 77^
Greece (New Publications), 258 1
^^^^^1 Lndi and Liij^t rivent, 472
Mahditit rebidlion in tlie Souilan and 1
^^^^^1 Ludima-Niadi, poHition of, 189
Central Africa, 314,412 1
^^^^^H Lit genii A river, 4(j8, 4G9
' Ma hut i village, 44 ^^J
Maidan-tal river, 435 ^^B
^^^^^H Lu^cm river, 475
^^^1 Lnkugu river, 188, 241, 471, 472, 474
Biainia to Ilbrimo, distance from, 36 ^^M
^^^^H Lnlu VL-r, 7 5 G
Mainog, Lnke, 428 note ^^
^^^^^A Lunda, Central Africa, Captain Car\'alho'fl
Maio or Amamnio tribe, 755 1
^^^^^H infonnation on Ibe history of, 382
Maitkuil, Caplain, and Captain Talbot» 1
^^^^^1 Lnnzn river, Central Africa, 177
doiirneys in AfgbauiiitEin, 102 ct *<*g. 1
^^^H Luplon Bey, 409
MakabtihH, pObitiou of, 189 1
^^^^^H ■* ' — - on tho poiiiiion of tLe Mukua
Makarof, S. 0„ 431 1
^^^^H river and tributarices, 2f>2
Makua WbId, vegetation and raot's of tilt J
^^^^H Lti River of TIIk t ; is it tho Bouree of the
294, 295 ^m
^^^^H Imwadi or the Salwin? by Qenetul J.
t\Vrl\r'\ rii-rr *'^1 'M^" f?in ^^^1
^I*t?llC^ riici, ^tfl, &•/£, Xi«'0 ^^^^H
^^^H T. Walker, 352 H ^<;.
— ■ — Dr. Junker's work at the, ^^
^^^H ». ^ , murcus of the, 364, 368
289, 200
^^^^^H Lusangadzi rivL-r, 184
trtbe, 470
^^^^1 LuBumbwe bay, Lake Njaaaa, 182
Halatia, J29 no/c
^^^^^1 Luvelevi river, 187
Malay^ or East Indian Arcliipidfigo, wUli
Burma, Siam, dtc, by W, Bhuwe (New
^^^H LuK, A. C, Die Dalkunhidblneel (New
^^^H Fnhlicaiiniii^), 048
MaptX 139
^^^^^B Lytlekker, H., Catalogue of the HemAins
Peniusufa, Indo-China, Ac., A Gco-
^^^^^1 of Fki^toetue and IVe-historio Yerte-
grapby of tbe, by Prof. A. 11. Keane (New
^^^^V brata eontjiined in the Geohgfcai De-
Fublicatioi]s), 524 ^—
^^f purtinent of the Indian llueeum, Calcntta
Malcnia river, 472 ^^M
^^^^ (New Publication 8), 259
MMhi, H. B., Sunlight (New Pubh'cations). ^H
^^■^H Catalogue of tho Betnatns of |
^M
^^^^H Siwalik Ytrtebrata conlained in tbe
Mali^klm riTer, 369 ^H
^^^^^ Geological DrpHrtinent of the Indian
Malloco province, Chile, 443
^^^ Museum, Calcutta. Fart I. Mnmmalia.
Mftlte-Bran, V, A., Carte du Meoklem*
^H Fart If. A vea, Keptdia, and Fificea (New
l>ourg-Sehwcria et Strelitz (New Mapa),
^H Fublicatiouf), 25^
403
Maps), 463
^P
Mammoth and tbe Flood, by II, H.
Iloworth (New Publicationf), 784
Mamie, R. K., 423
Manchuria, A Journey in, by H. E. M,
Ma'iiza tribe, *jft(>
Jamc^, 531 ft s^q. ^_
5lai'gregor» Major C R., Journey of tho
— -^^ florjt and fauna of, 548, 549 ^^|
Exijetliliiin under t'olonel Wo^idtborpe
— biatory of, 534, 536 ^H
from Upi>er Assam to the Irawadi, and
' Messrs. James, Yonnghns- V
. return over tbe Fatkui Range, 19 et
band, and FaIford*B Journey m M
^^K
Northern and Eastern, 235 ^^1
INDEX.
811
Mang'anja and Tao tribea, Bev. A. Hether-
wickon the, 114
Matigbattu, 404-407
Mant^tza Lake, 732
Manic4i, Captain Paiva de Andrada's
journey in, 621
Carta do Districto de (New Maps),
593
Manipur, rainfall and vegetation of, 39
Manual of Scientific Enquiry, The Ad-
miralty (New Publications), 651
Manyanga, position of, 189
Map Room of B.G.S., Report of the, 450
Maps, Now —
Africa, 64, 210, 828, 396, 528, 593, 656,
724, 788
America, 65, 211, 464, 593, 657, 724,788
Asia, 138, 266, 527, 593, 788
Astronomical, 68
Atlases, 66, 140, 212, 2G8, 330, 397,
466, 529, 594, 657, 728, 789
Australasia, 65, 267, 529, 593
Charts, 65, 139, 329, 465, 725, 789
Educational, 268, 398
Europe, 63, 136, 209, 265, 325, 395, 463,
526, 591, 655, 723, 786
Indian Gk)yemment Surveys, 138, 266,
527
Indian Ocean, 139
Ordnance Surveys, 63, 137, 210, 265,
327, 395, 464, 527, 592, 655, 723, 787
Pacific Ocean, 725
West Indies, 65
World, 62, 786
3Iarccl, G., Note sur une Carte Catalane de
Diilceri ant^rieure a TAtlas Catalan de
1375 (New Publications), 784
Marche, Alfred, explorations in the island
of Saipan. Marionne Group. 759
Lu9on et Palaouan (New Publica-
tions), 779
Margry, Pierre, M^moires et Documents
pour servir k I'Histoire des Origines
Francjaises des Pays Outre-Mer (New
PublicationsX 262
Markham, C. R., Expedition of G. P. James
from the Chanchaniayo in Peru to the
Atlantic, communicated by, 505
Famous Sailors of former
Times: TJie Storv of the Sea Fathers
(Now Publications), 524
- Obituary of Don Mariano Felipe
Paz Soldan, 386
■ river. New Guinea, 310
Marshall-Inseln, Die, in Erd- und Volker-
kunde, Handel und Messen, by 0.
Hager (New Publications), 322
Martin, K., Bericht liber einoReise nach
Nioderliindisch West-Indien und daruuf
gegrUndete Studien (New Publications),
520
— Westindische Skizzen (New
Publications), 461
M., travels in Eastern Siberia,
203
M. J., expedition in Eastern
Siberia, 378
No. XII.— Deo. 1887.]
Martin, M. J., Paris Geographical Society's
Gold Medal awarded to, 255
Mfl/tins, C, Du Spitzberg an Sahara;
Ktapes d'un Natnraliste an Spitzberg, en
Lanonie, &c. (New Publications), 524
Masalsky, Prince, excursion in the Kars
district, 429
Massaua, Carta speciale della Begione
attomo a, costruita da Guido Cora (New
Maps), 396
Matabele tribe, 693
Matabeleland and the country between the
Zambesi and the Limpopo, by Captain
C. E. Haynes, 692
Matthews, Dr. Percy, On the Depth of
Permanently Frozen Soil in the Polar
Begions, 769, 773
Matupi, New Britain, 4
Maua, cannibal tribe, 473
Maudsluy, A. P., explorations in Central
America, 345
Maurice, Colonel J. F., Militsry History
of tlie Campaign of 1882 in Egypt (New
Publications), 780
Mayo tribe. Vera Cruz, 568, 570
Mazar-i-Sharif, road to, by Dara-i-Tosuf,
104
town, 106
MazjrTagh bills, 734
Mazures, M. T. des. Memorandum on the
Countries between Tibet, Yunnan, and
Burma, 355, 367
Mbamba village, 48
Mbo tribe, 115
M'bomu river, 402, 409
McArthur, A., Explorations in the Arctic
Begions, 246
Mecca, extracts from Dr. Hurgronje's
pnper on his six months' residence in,
257
Mecklembourg-Schwerin et Strelitz, Carte
du. par V. A. Malte-Brun (New Maps).
463
Medals, Boyal, and other awards.
announcement of the adjudication of
the, for the year 1887, 311
. presen-
tation of the, 452
Medamud hills, 674
Medisa glen, 074
Mediterrane'e, Par delk la, by R Fallot
(New Publications), 649
Medjerda, Das Deltaland des (New Maps),
137
delta of. Dr. Fischer^s observa-
tions of the, 243
Mcge tribe, 295
Meh-kha river, 369
Meierda, river, 682
Mekeo district. New Gninea, 74
Mekong, Le Hant-, on le Laos ouvert, by
Paul Branda (New Publications), 316
Lieut do Fdsigny's explorations
of the, 774
' river, 363
Melanesia, Ten Years in, by Bev. A.
Penny (New Publications), 523
8 L
^^^1 INDEX. ^^^^^1
^^^^1 Meliineflia, The Langtiftgei of, hy Professor
Hiyomotegawa river, Japan, 96 ^^|
^^^^1 G. von der Gabelentz (New Publica-
' Brikwai's village^ 44 ^^H
^^^H tioDsX
Mhin^uzi river, Ceiitral Afirica, 177 ^^M
^^^^H M4.4uDe8mn Misalon. The Islnnd Toyago,
Muaiuazi river, 43 ^^M
^^^H 1885 {Nvvf Publications). 59
Mobnngi river, 2DS, 361 ^^M
^^^^B Melkiia, 07G
— Captain vun Gele'a explorations
^^^^1 ^reiiiikha town, 483
of the, 440
^^^^H Menge, Dr., journey up the Kwftugo rirer.
Modem Geograpliy, Roval Atlas of, by the
^^^H
late A. K/ Johnston (New Maps), 897
^^^^H MeriaTi, MatthcDus, Skizze seines hdbena^
Mohn, H.j Orunlzii^^e der Meteorologio
^^^^M &c., by H. Eckhcirdi (New PublicAtionB),
(New PubJi^Mitions). 721
^^^H
Mokuan tribe, 601
^^^^H ^Icfgcbur^. 8(>Gcinlkartc dea Ecgiemngs-
Mokoshat. 29
^^^H E( 2irka (Xow MiLp»\ 327
Moller, P., G. Fagek och E. Gleemp,
^^^^^H Herv <Iihtrict, hurvc^ji} in the, 436
Tro Ar i Kongo (New Publications),
^^^^^H present CO iidilioQ of^ 51
2G1
^^^H lilem-^h El Bagar gor^e, GC5
Moloney, A,, Sketch of the Foreatry of ^
^^^H ^[cesediiKHa, G. B., Diaho Stoma Mlli-
West Africa (New Publications), 519 ^H
^^^^H tairc ddlt} Ei volte al Sudan dal 1878 in
Mommseo, T.^ The Pntviuces of the Romoii ^^|
^^^^B poi (New Publicationa), 261
Empire from Ceesar to Diocletian, trans- ^^M
^^^^H Hesscr, Dr., Journey np th^.* Quango River
Jated by W. P. Dickson (New PublLca- ^H
^^^H (New Fuldicalions), 7S0
^^^H Meter, A Flea for the, by K G. Haven-
tionj), 263 ^^
Monaco, Princ^^ Albert de, Snr lo Gulf- 1
^^^^1
8tream (New Publicatiiius), 322 1
^^^^^1 Menrer, J., DtBtanz- nnd HeiFekarte von '
MoBbuttu country and natives, 294. 295, I
^^^^1 Tirol, hcurboitet von (New Maps), 526
296 _1
^^^^^H — ^^- DistanZ' nnd Ket^ekarte der otat*
Mongol tribes, 7*13, 744, 747 ^H
^^^^H liehoQ Alpitngehiute Ocsterreiclja (New
Mongolia and Til>et, Prejevalsky'a jomneTS ^^|
^^^H Maps), 521^
in, 213, 214 ^M
^^^^H Me3;i&\ TliB Aborigiual Indian Baces nf
Monsoons, 1^1 r, Blanford on the origin ^^M
^^^^1 the State of Vera Cru2, by A. Baker,
and character of t lie, 191 ^^U
^^^H a
Monlano, J., on ftcelimatisatioa, 691 1
^^^^H Moyer, Dr. H., aB<!eDi of Kilitnaajaro, 682,
Moon, The Handy Map of the (Kew M
^^^B
Maps), 08 ^^1
^^^^H Kiani's route in Central Africa, 406
Mcore, A. \V., Obituary of, 200 ^H
^^^^H Mill, H. R., remarks on somo defects of
Moresby. Port, hous« s of, 82 ^^M
^^^^^1 the Ordnanco Map^, 704
Morgan, K, Delmar, Prejeralsky^s Journeys ^^|
^^^^^H Hillerf W., NotcB on a Fiirt of the Weatem
and DIscoveritB in Central Asia, 219 tt ^
^^^H FroDtier of British Hondtiras, 420
seq.
^^^^H Milne, Dr.» observations on tba climate of
remarks on Prejeval sky's Jotir-
^^^^1 Blantyn?, 305
neys and Discoveries in Central Asia,
^^^^1 3Iinchin, J. G. C, The Growth of Free^lom
232
^^^^^H in tlie Bidkan Peninsula (New Fublica-
^^^H tiouii), 258
New Britidti Group. Is
^^^^H Ming dynasty of Chiiifl, 534
remarks on the Scop© and Me-
^^^^H Minnesota^ The Geological and Natural
thods of laeography, 172
^^^^^1 History Surrey of, Annual Reports for
rbUf?piuji vjvogrupjiicxLi i> orj£ m
^^^^1 18^4 and 1S85 (New Publications), 461
1SS6, 423 ei scq, ^M
^^^^^V MinuBiuHkago Mu^eya. Drovno^ti. by D.
M€frin;ja apteraj 671 ^^H
^^^^H Elements (New Fublie&lioiiB), 459
Morioka, high declination near, Northern
^^^B MiEbmi Iribe, 24
Japan, 90
^^^^^1 Hiaai^^ippit Down the Great River ^ cm*
Morse, E* S,, Ancient and Modem Methods
^^^^^1 bracing an account of the discovery of
of Arrow-Release (New Publicatians)*
^^^^^1 the true «^urce of ilie, &c., by Captain
264
^^^H "Willard Glazier (Now Publica'tiona), 717
Peabody Academy of Scienoe.
^^^^^H ■ Map illuatrative of Captain
Memoirs^ vol, ii, Japanese Homes and
^^^^H Willard Glazier's Voyage of Exploration
their Surroundiaga (New Publicaticnis).
^^^B to the Source of the (New Maps), 211
459
^^^V — - — nver, length of, 120, 253
Moseley, Professor, on geology in relation
^^^^^1 the sources of the, 119
to geography, 140
^^^H The True Source of the, bv
Mosbi, 491
^^^H Peafce GUea (New Fublicatiouji}, 262«
Mother and Daughters, volcanoes of Kaw ^^|
^^^■'
Bntain, 3 ^H
^^^^H 3(iasouri-3Ii8atEsippi river, length of, 12€
Mountain Ranges, the Origin of, eon- ^^U
^^^^H Mitchell, Mrs. Murray, A Mii^bionary^s
sidered expLTiiiieu tally, &c., and in re- ^^M
^^^B Wffe among the Wild Tribes of ii^outh
Ifltion to tbeirGe^dogieal History, by T. ^^B
^^^^B Bengal (New Foblications), 61
"^~" J
INDEX.
813
Moyano, Lieni C, explorations in Pata-
gonia, 384
Mpamba village, 183
M'Pombo (Alima), position of, 189
Mponda's village, 180, 181
Mpulusa village, 184
Muarn or Wembare river, 45
Muata Mosefo Matiamvo, Chief, 755
Muinga village, 48
Muir Glacier of Alaska, Mr. Frederick
Wright's observations of the, 118, 283
Mukaddasi, Description of Syria, inoludiug
Palestine, by, translated from the
Arabic and annotated by Gay le Strange.
Palestine Pilgrims* Text Society (New
Publications), 323
Mukden, 538
Mukenge, 64G
Mullens, Joseph, Mission in South India
visited and described (New Publica-
tions), 61
Huller, F. Max, The Sacred Books of the
East, translated by various Oriental
scholars, and edited by (New Publica-
tions), 260
MuUer, H. P. N., Een Bezoek aan do
Delagoa-Baai (New Publicatious), 780
Mullik tribe, 28
Munchen, Neuesten Plan von, von J.
Straube (New Maps), 655
Munich Geographical Society, Proceedings
of, December 3rd, 1886, 56
Munfia' Valley, 679
Mungala river, CJentral Africa, lientenant
Baert's ascent of the, 306
Mung Lung village, 21
Munza, King, 296
Morg, Touristen-Karte vom, von A. Walde
(NewMap8),787
Marie, Dr., remarks on explorations in
Central Africa, 419
Murray, John, Handbook for Travellers in
Devonshire (New Publications), 648
Portugal
(New Publications), 648
John, and the late Sir*Wyville
Thomson, Report on the Scientific Be-
sults of the Voyage of H.M.S. Challenger^
prepared under the superintendence of
(New Publications), 324, 720
K. B., Commercial G^graphy,
considered especially in its relation to
New Markets and Fields of Production
for British Trade (New Publications),
652
R. A. F., Geology and Phvsical
Geography of Victoria (New Publica-
tions), 650
Mur-ussu river, Tibet, 225
Musart Pass, Thian Shan range, 425
Mutan Cliiang river, 555
My.shenkof, M., expedition in Eastern
Bokhara, 433
N.
Naohtioal, Gustav, Erinnerungen an, by
Dorothea Berlin (New Publications), 651
Nadarof, Lieut.-Col., 431
Naga Hills, vegetation of the, 40
tribe, 24
Nagong-chu river, 370
Naichi Pass and Valley, 742, 743, 746
Naka'al Teir, 668
Naman district. New Guinea, 78, 79, 80
Nam-Dumai or Phungmai river, 31, 32
Namieb Plain, 511
Nam-kin river, 31
Nam-lung river, 31
Namuli Hills, East Africa, J. T. LasVs
explorations of the, 188
Journey of Mr. J. T. Last
from Blautyre to the, 42
On the Society's Expedition
to the, by J. T. Last, 467 ei seq.
— Peak, position and height of, 472
Nan-shan Mountains, 218, 219
Napchu village, Tibet, 227
Natal, Bush Life in, when a youn^ Colony.
My African Home ; or, by E. W. Feilden
(New PubUcations), 206
Naumann, Dr. E., Dio Erscheinungcn des
Erdmagnetismus in ihrer Abh'angigkeit
vom Ban der Erdriiide (New Publica-
tions), 652
Die Japanische Inselwelt (New
Publications), 587
The Physical
Geomphy of
Japan, with remarks on the People, 86
et seq,
Navez, Louis, De Tinfluence des Forma-
tions G^logiques en Belgiquo (New
Publications), 711
Nawa river, 291
N'Doruma, chief and settlement, 288, 289,
401, 402, 404
Nederlandsch-Indisch Plokaatboek, von
J. A. Van der Chijs (New Publications),
260
Needham, J. F., Gill Memorial awarded to,
311, 454
corroboration of "Wilcox and the
Pandit on the Lohit river, 360, 867
Neis, Dr., travels in China, 127
Nelson River, Depth of Frozen Soil in the
Bed of, 769
Nepoko river, 291
Neumann, Dr. L., Orometrie des Schwarz-
waldes, Geographische Abhandlungen
(New Publications), 129
Neusa harbour. New Ireland, 7
Newall, Major-General D. J. F., The High-
lands of India (New Publications),
713
New Britain coast, currents and tides of
the, 2, 3
Group, The Islands of the,
by H. H. Romilly, 1 et seq.
marriage laws and costoma,
8, 9, 10, 17
' population, 6
3 L 2
814
INDEX.
New Engl an d» Prof. SLaler's obserratioTia
oo the rivers of, 247
* Guiiieti, ant] tlio Western Pacific la-
Inndtt, further corTGapotideticeconcemiDg
(New PuUication&), 136
— . __* A Been t of I he Owen Stanley
Kiinge by C» H. Hart maun and G.
HiiDter» 621
Atifitralkn expedition to»
iiiider Mr. Cuthbertooti, 608
^^ ~ — Britiili, Difleovery of two new
Rivera la, by T. F. Bevan, 595 et §eq,
-' i^ued by Mesarfi.
Bums, Pliilp & Co. (New FublicatioDsX
322
* climate of, 85
— - — c xpJ«iration«, 245
► ExploratioDJj id South-
eaai^m^ by Rev. J. Clialmers, 1\ et seq.
^— German, Joorneyof Admiral
Toa ScblctiiitK and Dr. Scbmder up the
Emprcfs Augusta river, 120
exploration of tlie
couist of, hj Adnjiral von Scbldnit^ 309
- manners and customa of the
nalivca of, 81, 82, 85, 86
— -==^ — — Mr. Bcvan*a discovery of two
new rivera in, 570
Pioneering in, by Jamea
Qialmers (New Publications), 394
. guinmary of explorations in,
B44
— The Government of Vicloria^s
expedition to the Oweti Stanley Range,
305
— ^ Hanover Island, 7, 8
Ireland I:?hind, 6, 7
Siberian Islands', Rosaian expedition
to the, under Dr. Buuf*o and Baron von
Toll, progreau of, 51, 117* 577
South Wules, Map ot (New Maps), 65
-^ —- Refiulta of MelfiOFO-
logicat Observation H made in, by H. C.
Ensatll (Nt^w Publiciitions), 718
*- — - Ytirk tmd Peunuylviinia lioundnry.
Report of the Regent's Bonn«^»ry Coui-
miasion upon the (New PubUcalions),
781
^^— Zen land Indtistriti! Exhibition, 18K5,
Ofliciftl Record (New PublicationB), 52:^
— Institute, Transactions nnd
Proceeding of the» 1886 (New Publica-
tions), 719
^ — popnlalion of, 758
Ngala river, 298
^j^mi. Lake, 244
N'Ganchu, jxjuitioa of, 189
NgotnanOf pttsition of, 4t)S
Niam-Niam tribea, 406
Nicaragua-Kanales, Sjiecialkarte dea (New
Maps), 4tj4
Nioobii * H au [>lj*teni warto, Jabreabcrich t
am 25 Mui l^i^i\ (Ntw Pul>liratiouH), 6U
Niederlandifcch We^it-Indien, Bericht ul»er
eiiie ttcise nsr h» itnti darniif g:cgriuuiete
Stodien, liy K. Martin (Now Publica-
tions), 520 '
Nietmann, W., Verkcbrs- nnd Eidenbobn-
Atlas dor Ocsterreichisch-Ungamchen
Blouarcfate (New llapa), 526
Niger river, 419
Upper. Dr. Krauae'a jouraey in the
regions of the, 510
Nile and the Congo: lietween the, Dr*
Junker and the (Welle) Makua, by J.
T. Wills, 2B5 ct se'],
' Delia, Prol Af*cberaon'a joumeya in
the, 516
difieharge of the, 609
Expedition, The Great, of 1884-5.
The Campaign of tb© Cntoraots, beinpr ft
personal narrative of tlie, hy Colonel Sir
W. F. Butler (New Publicationa), 459
— — length of, 120, 253
levelai and volume of the, CIO, 611
-- — navi^tion and explorations of the,
286, 2H7
— — slope, the rivers of the, 293
Ninguta, town of. 556
Nitahatkn, Luke, Siberia, 379
N'Kunja, poaition of^ 189
Non^yong river, 41
'■ Lake, 36
Kordefiakiiftd, The, G83
XorthumberlaTid nnd Durlinm, Outlines ot
the Geology of, by G, A. Lel>our (New
PublicaiiriTis), 57
Norwav. Generalkiirt over det BydUge
Norge i 18 Blade (New Maps), 209
Norwegian Cbiirta (New Mftpa), 329
Oo«at and deop-aea fiurvey in
1886 by Oaptidn Fnbricitia, 380
deep-sea aoutidingB off
the, 115
*- — -> - North Atlnntie Expeditio'D.
Part XVL (New Publications), 129
■ North Atlantic Expedition
1876-8 (New Publicatif>Ti»), 523
Nosiiofr, Conatantin, expedition to Nova
ZembK 378
Novaviyesk, town of, 559
Nova Zembln, N. C. NoailoflTB expedition
to, 378
Nsakkata tribe, 295
Nucbnk village, Alaska, 277
NuraingTow, A. V., G. V. Jnggnrow Ob-
servatory, Dalja Gardens, Vizngapatnm.
Results of Meteorokigicfil Observations
18N6(New Publications), 652
Nyangwtj town, 49
Nyaeaa. Luke, A Journey to, and Visit to
the Hagwani^wttra and th*> J*ourcc of the
Rovuma, in 188<), by the Bishop of the
IJniverftities* Jlission to Central Africa
(New Publicationa), 393
O,
OnEH, F. A., Camps in the Carribbeet, ftc
(New PubJieations), 134
Obituary Lir-t for 1886-7, 351
Obrte, Mount, Oweii Stanley Range, Mr.
Cuthbtrttou*s atfcent of, 758
INDEX,
815
Odgen, M. J., on Geogmpbioal Edacaiion
in India, 687
Odoli or Autun, town of, 560, 567
Oesterreich, Sprachen-Karte der West-
lichen Kionlander von (New Maps), 137
-UDgarischen Eisenbahnen,
Karte der (New Maps), 209
' -Ungarn, Eisenbahn- nnd
Post-Oommunications-Earte von (New
Maps), 209
• Pbysikalisch-Statis-
tischer Handatlas von (New Maps),
789
Yerkehrskarte von
(New Maps), 655
Oesterreichsch-Ungariscben Monarchie,
Specialkarte der (New Maps), 591,
723
Monarobie,
Yerkebrs- nnd Eisenbabn-Atlas der, von
W. Nietmann (New Maps), 526
Ogilvie, W. W., explorations in British
Columbia, 758
Olbich, G., Special-karte des Kreises
Waldenburg (New Maps), 723
Oldham, R. D., On Probable Changes in
the Geography of the Punjab and its
Bivers (New Pnblications), 713
Oliphant, L., Episodes in a Life of Ad-
venture (New Publications), 590
Haifa, or Life in Modem Pales-
tine (New Publications), 316
Ommanney, Sir Erasmus, and the Ans-
tralian Antarctic Expedition, 576, 622
Omsk Military-Topographical Depart-
ment, 436
O'Neill, H. E., Journeys in the District
of Delagoa Bay, Dec 1886-Jan. 1887,
497 et seq,
Ontario, Indexed County Map and Ship-
per's Guide of (New Maps), 724
Opi or Werre river, 292
Oppel, Dr. A., Die religiosen Yerhaltnisse
von Africa (New Publications), 715
Oppler, Dr. A., on Acclimatisation, 690
Ordnance Maps, On some defects of tbe,
by Spenser Wilkinson, 702
Survey Maps (New Maps), 63,
137, 210, 265, 327, 395, 464, 527, 592,
655, 723, 787
Extracts from a Paper
on the Utilisation of the, by Sir C.Wilaon
(New Publications), 786
On the Utilisation of
the, by Sir Charles Wilson, 704
Ordos or Ortus desert, 233
Orientaux, Nouveaux Melanges. Memoires,
Textes et Traductions (New Publica-
tions), 324
Orinico, M. Chaffiinjon's expedition to the
sources of the, 204, 255, 456
Orokolo, New Guinea, 77
Oshima Island volcano, Japan, 93
Otomf tribe, Yera Cruz, 568, 570
Oudjda, De Fez 1^ by M. de Chavagnao
(New Publications), 779
O-Wassa, Biount, 628
Owen Stanley Range, New Guinea, ascent
of the, by 0. H. Hartmann and G.
Hunter, 621, 767
. Go-
vernment
the, 305
of Yictoria's expedition to
Mr.
Cuthbertson's ascent of Mount Obree in
tbe, 758
Oxford and Cambridge, Report of tbe
Committee on the Study of Geography
at, 698
— Universities, Con-
ferences on the establishment of a
Readership of Geography at the, 188
-R.G.S.'8
proposals for establishment of lecturers
on geography at the, 333, 334
appointment of H. J. Mackinder
as Reader of Geograpliy at, 437
Local Examinations, awards of
Geographical Prize Medals, 454
University, establishment of a
Readership of Geography at, 239, 254
Extension Lectures
for 1887-8, 681
Padao town, 33
Pai-shan, Mount, 543, 544
Pajot, E., Simples Renseignements snr
rile Bourbon (New Publications), 520
Palcazu river, 505
Palena river. Chili, 580
Palestine, Pictsrial Map of, giving a
bird*8-eye view of the Holy Land, &o.,
by F. H. Wood (New Maps), 268
Pilgrims* Text Society (New
PublicaUons), 323
Tbe Monumental History of,
Syrian Stone-lore ; or, by C. R. Conder
(New Publications), 259
Palgrave, Mary E., Pictorial C^eography of
the British Isles (New Publications),
711
W. G., Ulysses; or Scenes and
Studies in many Lands (New Publica-
tions), 784
Palorabe river, 43
P4mir, The Dragon Lake of, by Major-
General Sir Henry Rawlinson, 69 ,
Panama, Le Canal de, en 1886. Rapport
presents par M. J. Ch. Roux (New
Publications), 321
Panouse, Yicomte E. de la, travels in
South Africa, 127
Paraguayan Treasure, A, the Search and
Discovery, by A. F. Baillie (New Pub-
lications), 520
Pardoux, M. N., explorations of the
Mekong river, 774
Pariisky, Captain, survey in the Zarafshan,
434
Paris Geographical Society, award of
Medals of the, 255
816
INDEX.
Pflrifl Geogmpbica! Society, presentation
ofMedftldof, :i8l>
^' Proceeding*
of tlie» Kovenibc-r 5tli, 1S80, 54
19th, 1^8II» 55
December 3rd, 1S86, 127
ITtiu ISSB, 128
Januftiy lib, ISSl, 202
2lBt, 1887. 203
^ February 4tb, 1887. 254
"^ — ^ ' — — ISth, 1887, 256
Miiich -lib, 1SS7, 'dYl
18th, IS87, 312
■ April 1st, lgh7, 388
15th, 1887, 389
' Blay (Jth, l&87t 456
20tb, 1887, 457
^ June 3rd, 1887,513
-^— 17th, 1H87»5U
. November 4tb, 1B87» 774
Paris, Nouveaii Piiiu de (New Maps), ^3
Passarge, Louie, AuB Baltisdien Laudeu
(New Publit"«tioiiii)» 526
Pfttftgouia, Lion tenant A. del Castillo's
journey in, 512
Litutcnftiit 0. Moyauo's ex-
plorations ill, 384
Patkoi Pasa, 41
Paula, Holy, The Pilgrimage of the, by
St. Jerome. Tranabted by A. Stewart,
and annotated by Sir C. W. Wilson,
PilesUnft Pilgrima* Text Society (New
PuMicfttiuii»), 323
pRvlov, Mount, Aluakft, eruption of.
Pa-yen -Bhu'fihn town, Manpburiftj 236
Payne, J. A.., Lagoa and West African
Almanack nnd Diary for 1887 (Now
PiibiiofilioBB), 4 HO
Paz Bold an, Don Mariano Ft;lipe, Obituary
of, 386
Peacock, D. R.^ Original VocabularieB of
five West Cancasian Lan^uagea (New
PuMicaliouB), 205
Peek, Rev. E, J.^ Journey acroBs Labrailor.
192
Ptiking, iTOpnlidion of, 57
Ptnick, Dr. Aibreebt, Popera on Phyflical
Oeogmphy (New Publication s), 652
— Professor Dr. A., GeographiBeho
Abbandlnngen, bemus>;e Ziehen von
(New Publieationfl), 129, 709
Penny, Rev. A,, Ten Years in Melanesia
(New Publications), 523
Perrier, General, on the artesian wella and
oases in Ued Rir, 254
Perrin, F., Coolidge, W, A, B^ and H.
Dubamei, Guide du Haut- Dauphin^
(New PublicationH), 710
Perrott, Major Sir Herbert, A Note oa
Houghton, the African Explorer, 693
Persia aud the Persians, by S. G. W,
Benjamin (New Tubli cations), 205
A» It I«, by C. J. Wills (Now Publi-
cationa), 131
Pern, Nuevo Atlas Qcografioo del (Now
Mape), 790
Petermann's • Geographifidlitt
gen,' Indexhcft (New Mops), 62 '
Petera, Dr. K., 490
Peterflbiihe, 493
Petberick, E. A., Catalogue of the York
Gate Library, formed by Mr. Silvtr
(New Pnblicutiona), 134
PetitL^t, E., Lea Gmnds Ksqiiimanx (New
PublicatioDB), 650
Petter^eii, Dr, Karl, on the weather in the
Arctic SeaB, 683
Pe-tun-lio-tzu town, Manebnria, 236
Pfeil, County journeyti in East Africa, 47#
340
-* treaties in East Africa, 4^2
Philip, G., *k Son, Handy- volume AtlBiS of
the Werld (New Map.H), 466
PhilippsoD, Alfred, Studien uber Wasser-
scheiden (New Publications), 61
PMlipn* BevoMug Planisphere (New
Maps), 68
Pbilp river, 598
Phccnix, I he, 683
Fhysiogranjiy, Outlines of. The MoTemeots
of the Earth, by J. Noramn Locfcyer
(New PublicfltionB), 720
Pint, A., Porte de Guerre ^ Cabourg (New
Publications), 517
Piclian fort, 748
Piohia river, 507
Pierce, Jo&iab, On the United States Greo-
graphieal and Geological Survey, 704
Pikrjmayo river, Captain Ft^mandez*B ex*
pi orations of the tributaries of the,
581
Piltan, Lake, and Plain of Stone, 562
Pinart. M. A,, on the State of Panania, M
Finiciealia town, and river Sail Paulo, 109,
110
Plogemann, Dr. A., explomtionB in tho
Yalley of the CaehaiMiul, 248
Planiflpbore, Philips* Bevolring (New
Maps), 68
Play fair. Sir Ijambert, Handbook fbr
Truveilers in Algeria and Tunis (New
Publictitiona), 206
Pleignenr, Captain, death of, 775
Poirier, M. Leon, sum bequeathed to Porifi
Geographical Society, 54
Fola, fioino Veri^Angenheit, Gegenwart
und Zuknnft (New Publications), 712
Polar Obaervftlion^, International (New
Publieatioiis), 263, 522
ttLgions, St con d Report of a Gom-
mitteo far inquiring into the Depth of
Permanently Frozen Soil in the, by
General Sir J. H. Lefroy, 769 et seq.
— Stars, a Catalogue of 130, for the
epoch of 1875.0, by W. A, Eogers and
A. Win lock (New Publications), 525
Pelen, Haiidkarten von Rn^isch (New
Maps), 137
Poltoratski, M,, 423
Polu and Budokh, Road between, 782
Polyuesiim, East aud West, Malay, &c., A
Comparison of the Dialects of, by Eev. G.
Pratt (New Publications), 522
INDEX.
817
Ponel, M. E., journeys in the Congo basin,
514
Popoloco tribe, Vera Cruz, 568, 570
Population of tho Earth, by Prof. E.
Lcvasseur, 763
Poroai lagoon. New Guinea, 72
Porphyry Quarries of Egypt, account of a
recent visit to the ancient, by W. Brind-
ley, 692
Porto de Len^oes village, 112
Potanin, G. N., 431
- expedition in Central Asia, 424
442
— journey across the Desert of Gobi,
- progress of expedition of, 54
Potanin's Journey in iMorth-westem China
and Eastern Tibet, 233
Potsdam, Specialkarte des Begicrungs-
Bezirks (New Maps), 327
Prag, Pkn von, uiid TJmgebung, von A.
Hurtig (New Maps). 592
Pratt, Rev. G., A Comparison of the Dia-
lects of Best and West Polynesian,
Malay, &c. (New Publications), 522
Prejevalsky, Colonel, publication of results
of the recent journey in Central Asia
by, 50
Prejevalsky's Journeys and Discoveries in
Central Asia, by £. Delmar Morgan,
213 et seq.
Preussisohen Geodatisohen Instituts, Yer-
offentlichung des Konigl. Heft I. (New
Publications), 57
Prince William Sound, Alaska, 277
Principe, Carta da Ilha do (New Maps),
211
Procopius, On the Buildings of Justinian,
by. Translated by A. Stewart, and an-
notated by Sir C. W. Wilson. Pidestine
Pilgrimfl' Text Society (New Publica-
tions), 323
Publications of R.G.S.. Report of, 449
Puerto Rico, Map Topogrdfico de la Isla
de (New Maps), 65
Pumpelly, R., Report on the Mining In-
dustries of the United States, &c. (New
Publications), 522
Pungue river, 622
Punjab and its Rivers, On Probable
Changes in the Geography of the, by
R. D. Oldham (New Publications), 713
Pyrard of Laval, F., The Voyage of,
translated by A. Gray (New Publica-
tions), 590
Pyrenees, Orography of the, M. Sohrader
on the, 685
Q.
QuAiPO natives. New Guinea, 73
Quango river, Mr. GrenfelFs explorations
of the, 239
Quatrefages, M. A. de, on Acclimatisation,
691
Queen's Highway from Ocean to Ocean,
The, by C. Cumberknd (New Publica-
tions), 520
Queensland, Geographical Map of, by R. L.
Jack (New Maps), 598
Map of (New Maps), 05
illustrating its mineral
and other productive capabilities (New
Maps), 267
Report on the Argentine
(Star) Silver Mines, Kennedy District,
by R. L. Jack (New Publications), 589
• Report on the Geology and
Mineral Resources of the Districts of
KilMvan and Black Snake (New Publi-
cations), 59
R.
Radford, A., Jottings on tho West Indies
and Panama (New Publications), 461
Radiolarian slate, Japan, 89
Rae, Dr. J., on Depth of Frozen Soil in the
Polar Regions, 773
Raian Ain, Tho Desert from Dakshur to,
by Captain C. Surtees, 613
Moeris, The, or Storage Reservoir of
Middle Egypt, by Cope Whitehouse, 608
et seq,
■ Project, Feasibility of the, by
Colonel Ardagh, 613
Ramon -Listu, M., expedition in Ticrra
del Fuego, 456
Rang-Kul lake, 69
Ravcnstein, E. G., A Plea for the Meter, 705
on Diogo Cao's "Padrao" at
the mouth of the Congo, 690 note
remarks on the Teaching of
Geography at the Universities, 700
- remarks on Between the Nile
and the Congo: Dr. Junker and the
(WeUe) Makua, 303
L., Karte der Salzburger
Alpen, und des Salzkammerguts (Now
Maps), 592
Raverty, Major, letter from, on the Band-i-
Amir Lakes and Moore's Bcndemeer,
252
Rawlinson, Sir H., remarks on the Annual
Address, 455
remarks on the Islands of the
Now Britain Group, 15, 18
Tlie Dragon Lake of Pamir, 69
Rawson, Sir Rawson, remarks on Explora-
tions in South-eastern New Guinea, 85
Reade, T. M., The Origin of Mountain
Ranges, considered experimentally, &c.,
and in relation to their geological history
(New Publications), 652
Reclus, Elisec, The Earth, a descriptive
History of the Phenomena of the Life of
the Globe ; and The Ocean, Atmosphere
and Life, edited by Prof. Keane piTew
Publications), 263
Red Sea Ports, Report of a Journey to the,
Somali-land, and Southern and Eastern
Arabia, by Major-General F. T. Haig
(New Publications), 649
Trade. The, by A. B. Wylde, 691
Regis, P^re, 546
818
INDEX.
Beikiftvikfjordt ice off the, 684
Keiii, Prnt J. J., Japjm uncb Reisen tind
Htudien, im Auftrage tier K, Preu>&lschcii
RegleruDg dargcBtellt (New Publica-
tions), 130
Eeitcr, Dr. H., Did Biklpolarfmjre und Uitq
Bc'deuhiU]^ fiir die gerietische Glied^-rung
dor Erdoliriliicho (New Publications),
Eenaud, M., on the Ixorboura of Tonking^
255
Rfcunion, LslflTid of, Cinclionn Cultivation
in the, Mr. 8t. John on, 578
Rbeiim, W., letter from, on tho Teaching
a f ti cogra plj y , 121
Kiba-Biba vilhife-*?, 49
Bibero, Diego, The 2iid Borjj:ian Map by,
Teprotiuced by W* Griggs (New BIai>fl), tj2
Riclmrdfinn, Sit John^ on Depth t>f Frozen
Soil at York Factory, 77 J, 772
Rijckcvwrafel, Dr. van, jonmey in Sumatra,
128
Eiley, AtJielHtan, Athos, or the MonntaiQ
of' the Monks (New PublicfltinDs), 517
Kitter* Cnrl, Gegehiohte dor Enlkiuide und
der Eiitdeckungeii (New PublicatiuUB),
B — N., native fiurvfyor, exploratioiiB in
Control Asia, 342, 343
Eoberte, M., The %Vefltem Avenues, or
Tuil and Travel in Further North
America (New Piiblicalinnft), 4G1
Robltihon, Sir W.C. F., The Physical Geo-
grtiphy of the South-wetit of Western
AimtraliiL (New Publication b), 59
Koblet, Pile D., The Environs of Antana-
narivo (New Mfipji), 139
EodrignoH, M,, on the river Jnnpery, 54
iiognrB, W. A,, and A. Winlot^k, A Ckta-
logne of 130 Polar Slara for the epoch
of 1875.0 (New Puhlieatione)» 525
Ilohlfs, G„ Quid Novi Ex Afnca? (New
pQblicatinns), 201
Rolland, M, G., on Jhe geolo;^y of Lake
Kelbia region and Central Tunis, 31'ji
Iteman Empire, The Provinces of the, from
Ca^ar to DiocleiiRn, by T. MommBen,
t ran slated by W. T. Dickson (New
I'ublicatiouB), 263
Eomilly, H. H., Tho Iskuda of the Now
Britain Group, 1 rt se^f,
Ho&cy, E. de, Lesj AntillcB (New Publica-
tions), 134
Les ReligiouB dc I'Extr^me Orient
(New Publicationa), 721
Rc«a, Mr., on the location of Odoll, 567
Robtcck, Environs de^ par V. A. Malte-
Rrun (New Mapa), 463
Eoumanie, Annates de rinstitut Mete'oro-
logique de^ par S. C. Hepites, Directeur
(New Publications), 258
Roumauion. by R. Ber^ner (New Publica-
lion»), 517
Ronvier, Captain, Astronomical Obserra'
tious to lix Posiliona on tht* Congo, 189
— — — - Carte dn Congo Fmn^aiji (Now
Mops), 724
Bonirier, Ceptaio, expedition in the Congo
regions, 3ai>
Pari a Geographical Society's GoM
Medal awarded tn, 255
Ruux, M. J. Ch,^ Lo Cauiil do PanaiDft en
188G, rapport presenle par (New Pub-
lications), 321
Rudnef, M., expedition in Eastern Bok-
hara, 433, 434
Rudnkh uud Polu, rosd between, 732
Kumbold, Sir 11., The Great Silver Ulver;
Notea of a Reside ace in Buenos Ay res <
(Now Piiblicatioijs), 520
Rundle, Blajor, G73
RuBiafa route, 0li3, 6G4
Kuai^ell, H. C, Re^^iilta of Meteorologrical
tJbservatioDd made in New Sooth Wules
(New Publiciitiona), 718
L tVik, Geological History of
Lake Lcilkoiitan, North-western Nevadbit.
United States Geographicat Surrey
(New Publications), 321
RuBsiu, Poland, and Fitihind, Handbook for
Triivellerrt id (New Publications), 7t*4
Russian expedition iuto Central Asit»
under Colonel Bolyr, 50S
^~ — = — — to the New Siberian
lBlttndi,5J,117, 577
explomtion io Northern Afiia^
progpo»8 of, 50, 54
— — Geographical Society, *Froeeed-
iogfl' of the (New Publictilions), GO
^' East Si-
berian section of, ■ lavestiya * of (New
Publicalions), 130, 778
.. East Si-
berian Beetion of, ^Zapiski* of (New
Publicationa), 182, 778
— Work in 1886, by
E. Delmar Morgan, 423 ct spq.
— — roiiiLary tupographicul work
during 188(J, 432
—^ Polar Slation at the Mouth of the
Lena (New Publications), 522
Uuiversitie& institution of Chairs
of Geography at, 440
Russisch-PolcDi Ilundkarte von, von G.
0*(irady (New Mapi*), 2tJ5
Russ^land, Karte der Eiienbahnen dea
europiiiachcn (New Maps), 327
^ AVest, General- und Btrftsseih'
karte von (New Maps), 463
Husalanda, Die Etsenhahnen (New MapsY
4t;3
Ruvuma river, 468
Rykiitecbew, M., Ober den Auf- nnd
Zugang der Gewibaer deis Rusaisehen
Reiches (New Publications), 458
Bylke, S. D., 431
Svf'HSEN, Geologischen Spozialkarte de«
Ktiuigreich (New Maps), ii55
SchuIwaDdkartt* vora Koai^-
rtich, von K. Bamberg (New MapaL
592
INDEX.
819
Sachu town, Tibet, 747
Sadija to Padao, route from, 36
Sahara, Western, M. Douls' jonraey in,
760
St. Elias, Mount, Alaska, height and posi-
tion of, 271, 282
Mr. Seton-Karr*8 account
of, 52
on the position of, and
the Schwatka epedition to Alaska, letter
from W. H. Dall on, 444
— Jerome, The Pilgrimage of the Holy
Paula, by, translated by A. Stewart and
annotated by Sir 0. W. Wilson, Pales-
tine Pilgrims* Text Society (New Pub-
lications), 323
— Jolin. C. L., on cinchona cultivation in
the Island of Reunion, 578
— Kilda and the St. Kildians, by Robert
Connell (New Publications), 392
Martin, M. Vivien de. Atlas Universel
de Geograpliio Modeme, Ancienne et
du Moyen Age (New Maps), 729
— Michael Island, Azores, A few Notes
on the ; and A Report on the Artificial
Uarbbur of Ponta Del^ado, St Michaers,
bv W. R. Kettle (New Publications),
205
— Thiago, Ilha de, Piano hydrographioo
do Porto da Praia, Archipelago de Cabo
Verde (New Maps), 211
Saipan, Island of, M. A. Marohe's ex-
plorations in the, 759
Salar tribe, 234
Salvadora Persica, 675
Salwin river, 363
Salzburg, Mittel und Siidbayem, Nord-
tyrol imd, Reliefkarte von (New Maps),
655
Salzburger-Alpen, Karte der, und des
SalzkammerKUts, von Ludwig Raven-
stein (New Maps), 592
Samoa, My Consulate in, by W. B.
Churchward (New Publications), 651
Sanaa town, 484
Sandwich Islands, Map of the Hawaiian
Islands (New Maps), 725
Sandwith, T. B., observations on the
Forests of Tunis, 682
Sandys, J. E., An Easter Vacation in
Greece (New Publications), 315
Sanga river as the probable source of the
Lohit Brahmaputra, 365, 369
Sang-chu river, Tibet, 226
Sankuru and Upper Kassal, Explorations
on the, by Dr. Ludwig Wolf, 640 et
seq,
San Paulo, Brazil, A Journey in the Pro-
vince of, in July-September 1885, by R.
F. Holme, 108 et seq.
San-sing, town of, 554
Santo Ant&o, Carta da Hha de (New
Maps), 593
Sara-Kamysh basin, 626
Sarameti Mountain, 40
Sarasin, Dr. F., on the geographical con-
ditions of the island of Ceylon, 391
Sarat Chandra Dras, Back Premium
awarded to, 311, 454
Sar-i-Pul town, 107
Satow, E. M., Essay towards a Bibliogra-
phy of Siam (New Publications), 587
Sutsuma province, Japan, 100
Saunders-Forster, C G., Beneath Parnas-
sian Clouds and Olympian Sunshine
(New Publications), 316
Saunders, Trelawny, remarks on some
defects of the Ordnance Maps, 708
Saussure, M. De, 281
Saxaul shrub of Central Asia, 216
Scandinavien, Politische Wandkarte von
(New Maps), 787
Scherzer, Dr. K. von. Die Wirthschaftliche
Leben der Volker (New Publications),
135
Schinz, Dr. H., Durch Siid-west Africa
(New Publications), 714
explorations in South-western
Africa, 243, 584
Schleinitz, Admiral von, and Dr. Schrader^
Journey up the Empress Augusta River,
German New Guinea, 120
Exploration of the Coast of
German New Guinea, 809
Schmidt, A., Meine Reise in Usaramo nnd
den Deutschen Schutzgebieten Central-
Ostafrikas (New Publications), 714
Schneider, Herr Oscar, 677
Schperck, F. K., 431
Schrader, M., on the Orography of the
Pyrenees, 685
Schrenck, L. von, and C. J. Maximowicz,
Beitrage zur Kenntniss des Russischen
Reiohes imd der angrenzenden Lander
Asiens (New Publications), 517
Schiiok, Capt. A., Magnetic Observations
: on the Elbe, &c. (New Publications),
135
Schumacher, G., Der Dscholan (New Pub-
lications), 317
Schwartz, M., expedition in Eastern Bok-
hara, 432
Schwarz, Dr. B., Eamerun. Reise in dem
Hinterlando der Kolonie (New Publi-
cations), 320
Schwatka, Lieut., expedition to Alaska,
and the position of Mount St Elias,
Letter from W. H. DaU on, 444
Schweiz, Die, by Dr. J. J Egli (New
Publications), 205
Reisekarte der, von H. Keller
(New Maps), 655
Topographischer Atlas der (New
Maps), 658
Schwerin, Baron von. Discovery of Diogo
Cam's memorial stone at the mouth of
the Congo, 439
Scientific Purposes Grant of R.G.S., Re-
port of, 450
Scotland, Pocket Atlas of, by J. Bartholo-
mew (New Maps), 466
The Scenery of, viewed in con-
nection with its Physical Geology, by
A. GtoiMe (New Publioations}, 710
^■^ 820 ^M
^^^P Seal lake, Labr&dor, 193
Siberien, (JeographiuQhft, ethmigrapbisclio
^^^^^ 8ebanga river, 301
nud historiaohe Studien, von N. ladrin-
^^M )iee\t}\ rrof. H. G., rcmarka oii the Scope
^H and Methi^ds of Geography, 16S
zew (New Fublieniiong}, 131
BibiriakoflT, J!., trade ruute to Siberia, vlk
^^H reraarkfl on the TeacliiDg of Geo-
Kara Sea^ fiSS
^^^^^ gmpliy tit the Univeraitiea, 700
SibrLO, Rev. J., and Kev. li. Bnrotj^ An-
^^^^^ Seektrang, Dr. Arturn, Atlas de U Hd-
tananarivo Annual and Madngascaf
^^^^H pifblioi Arg«nMna roduotuUo por el
Magazine, No. X,, edited by (Nuw Fub-
^^^H (New Mnpe), 72H
lications), 260
^^^1 8«gou, Faul Soleillet'fl Voya-e h, UlS-70, i
Sid gorge, 665
^^^^^B redigi^' d'apreB Kb ootes et journatix de
Siebengeblrpea, Uebersichtakarte de8(Now
^^^^H Soldi] et piir Gabriel Gravier (New Pab-
MapB), 3'i7
^^^^H licfitiotid), 714
Sierra Nevada do Santa Marta, Beise in.
^^^^^K Btiif l^louni^ Hiiknif and AVcBteni Paleatmo^
by Dr. W. Sievers (New Publications),
^^^H by Edward Hull (New Publkaaona),
521
^^H
Siovers, Dr. W., Heise in der Sierra Nevada
^^^H 8«koli-Bonga rivor, 29S
d© SflDta Marfa (New PnblieationH). 521
^^^^ Selkirk Settlement and tho Settkrs, The,
Siiva Porto's Jouruey fr«>ni Biite (Bie) to
^H by Charles N. B<^11 (New rublioatluDt),
the Bakuba Country, 75 li et styj.
^^r 715
Si rag, A.t A Vocabulary of Kiban^i, as
^^^^^L Semeonof, P.^ GeotnupbicheskcKStatisti'
Bpoken by the B.ibongi on tho Upper
^^^^H ohettkii Sloviu- Kotisiibkoi Imperii (New
Congo, from Kwa Mouth to Liboko
^^^H Publications), 523
(New Publientions), 133
^^^H SemiD, chief, 2Sd
A Vocabulary of tho Kitekc, as
^^^^H ^ — btalinu, Ci^ntml Afrion, iOS
Spoken by the Pate ke(lhitio) and kindred
^^^^H Sempaoh, Lnke, depth of. i^SG
tribes on tho Upper CoDgo (New Pub-
^^^^V Senegal, Frcucb extieditirmH in the Interior
lications), 58
^ of» 240
Sim aon, A.. Tmvek in the Wildt^ of Ecua-
^^J^ Lea Explorations au, et dana les
dor and the Exploration of the Patumayo
^^^^^L Ccmtr^ Yoiflines, dcpuis lantiquite jnS'
^^^^H quit &08 jmirs. par J. Aticelte (New
^^^■^ Fublicutions), 317
liiver (New Publications), 321 H
Sinclair, A. C, and L. li. Fyfe, The Hand- ^H
book of Janjuica for 1887-S (New Pub- ^^
^^F progress of tho French expedi-
lieationy), 59, 717 1
^^H tioDs iu Ibe interior of, 500
Singpho or Kakliyen tribe and language, ^J
^^m Seiu^pcftmbie, Voyage on, by Dr Boyol (Kew
23,24 M
^^t^ Pyblicaliuns), 779
SkasM, A. I, 481 ^M
^^^^K Beton-Korr, Lieut., account of Mount St.
Sladen, Colonel Sir E. B., remarks on the ^H
^^^H EUofi, 52
Lu River of Tibet &(^,, 372 ^H
^^^^^ remarka on the Alpine Regiona
Suieaton, D. M., The Loyal Kurens of ^
^V of Aloi^ka, 285
Burma (New Publieatian^), 206
Smith, Agnes, Through Cypru»(New Pub-
^^^^^^^^ XU.U ^rxipiliU Xltr^lvUO VI JX Hl3ii|f|
^^^B 269 ei teq.
iicationa), 392
^^^H Sextant, Manual of the, by C. M. Thomp-
George, Fifty Yeors of Foreign
^^^H aon (Ka^ Publication^),' 74^5
Missions, &c. (New Publicationg), 62
^^^^H SeydJsljord, iee in the, G84
a pjrwf^„ Tlifi FniTTtfnii nf Tamwera
^^^^" ShoKshau, Central Asia, 217 nott^
(New PublicationB), 716
^^V Shadwelh »^ir Cliarlcs, Memorml to tho
Smithsoninn In6titution» Annual Report of
^H late* 764
the Board €f Regents of the (Nvw Pub-
^H Shah Yar town, 735
lications). 589 ^H
^B Shaib, Jebeh 078
Sokoto, Herr Staudingei's journey to, 256 ^H
^^H Shaler, Prof., ob^er nations on the rivers of
Jle^ra. Stnudtingcr and IIartert*8 V
^H New England, 247
visit to, 306 1
^H Shnri river, 208, 299
Soleillet, Paul, Voyage h Segou 1878-79, 1
^^H Shichito Cbain, Jai>an, 88
redige d'apjis les notee et joumaux I
^^^^^ Shinano Uida Kan go, Japan, 94
de SoleiUet, par Gabriel Gravier (New ^^J
^^^^H Shinko or Paperwt r rivor., 292
Publtcations), 7H ^H
^^^^^f Shirwo, LEike, diHoovery of uew lake south*
Solomon Islands, 16 ^^H
^ east of, 439
, The, and their Natives, V
^^B tribe (Nguru or Nyanjtt), 115
by H. P. Guppy (New Publications), M
^H Shkara, Mount, 767
782 ^J
^^M Siam, Eaaay towards a Bibliogmphy of, by
Solon Manehns, 554 ^^H
^^^_ £. M. Satow (N^w Pub I i rati on b), ^^
Soyanx, Herr, 686 ^^B
^^^H Siberia, Eaatero, M. J. Martin'^ expedition^
Speeding, W. C, Route Survey through 1
^^V
the YonihA Country (New M-ips), 529 ■
Spitzberg au Sahara, Dn» Btapes d'on 1
— J
^^^^F ifUu umue ruuto wtf via ivcua ovof
^H 683
Katuraliste an Spit^berg, iko,, by 0, J
^H Siberian lokea, the doBiccation of the, 51
INDEX.
821
Spitzbergen, Dr. Knckenthal's explorations
in, 515
Ssan<::a, position of, 315
Stanford, E., London Atlas of Universal
Geography (New Maps), 530, 729
Stanhope river, 602
Stanley, Mr., expedition for the relief of
Emin Pasha, 47, 114, 126, 202, 584, 759,
765
Pool, Arab insarrection at, 312
Stanovol Range, Siberia, 379
Stapff, Dr., explorations in the Coast region
of South-western Africa, 511
on the geology of the neigh-
bourhood of Walfish Bay, 57
- F. M., Originalkarte des Unteren
Ehuiseb Thales (New Maps), 529
Stauber, Herr Anton, 250
Stand ingcr and Hartert, Messrs., visit to
Sokoto, 306
Herr,joumey to Sokoto, 256
SteainA, W. J., The Valley of the Rio Doce,
702
Steinen, Dr. K. von den, Durch Ontral-
Brasilien (New Publications), 208
further explora-
tions of the Xingu river, Brazil, 193
-and Herr W., and
Dr. 0. Glaus' expedition in Brazil, 345
Stephen, Leslie, Dictionary of National
Biography (New Publications), 135,323,
525
Stevens, Henry, and Sir Q. Birdwood, The
Dawn of British Trade to India (New
Publications), 130
J., Around the World on a Bi-
cycle (New Publications), 525
Stieng, Dictionnaire, by H. Azdmar (New
Publications), 587
Stock, E., remarks on Explorations in
Central Africa, 417
Stone, General C. M. P., 333
Stothert, Mr., remiirks on some defects of
the Ordnance Maps, 703
Strachey, General, Annual Address on the
Progress of Geography, 331 tf* seq,
Address on opening Session
1887-88. 765 et $eq.
• Letter from, to Sir Graham Berry
on the proposed Antarctic Expedition,
757
remarks on a journey through
Yemen, 490
churia, 567
- a journey in Man-
768
- Explorations in Siam,
Explorations in
South-eastern New Guinea, 86
Prejevalsky's Jour-
neys and Discoveries in Central Asia, 231
Presentation of
Medals, 452, 453
- the Expedition from
Upper Assam to the Irawadi, &o., 41
- the Lu river of Tibet,
&c.,376
Strachey, General, remarks on the Scope
and Methods of Geography, 174
the Society's
Expedition to the Namuli Hills, 478
Straits Settlements, Report on the Forest
Department for 1886, by N. Cantley
(New Publications), 648
Straube, J., Neuesten Plan von Miinchen
(New Maps), 655
Streeter, G. Skelton, The Ruby Mines of
Burma, 701
Struve, H., Landkarten, ihre Herstellung
und ihre Fehlergrenzcn (New Publica-
tions), 721
Suai lake, 627
Suakin und Kassala, Die Earawanen-
strassen zwischen, nach Itinerar-Auf-
nahmen von J. Menges, gezeichnet von
C. Barich (New Maps), 397
Sudan, Diario Storioo Militaire delle
Rivolte al, dal 1878 in poi, by Q. B.
Messedaglia (New Publications), 261
Suez Canal and El Arish, country between
the, 585
Sugu-nor Lake, 442
Sumatra, Central, Rapport uber eine im
Dezember 1883 untemommene wissen-
schaftliche Reise an den Lobo-See, von
Dr. B. Hagen (New Publications), 713
Dr. van Rijckevorsel's journey
in, 128
Kaart van het Eiland (New
Maps). 267
Sungari river, 533, 548
Sung Ho river, 547
Sung-pang-ting, 234, 235
Supan, A., Landwirtschaftskarte und Li-
dustriekarte der Yereinigten Staaten
und von Canada (New Maps), 65
on thH (^mate of Europe as regards
the duration of a certain mean tempera-
ture in different areas, 441
• on the Climates of the Globe, 768
Surinam, scin Land, seine Natur, Bevol-
kerung und seine Eultnr-Yerh'altnisse,
mit Bezug auf Eolonisation, von A«
Kappler (New Publications), 133
Sverige, Norge och Danmark, General
Karta ofver (New Maps), 327
Swazi country, gold mines of the, 502
Swedish antarctic expedition, proposed, 309
Swiss lakes, depth of, Herr J. Komliman
on the, 686
Switzerland, A Handbook for Travellers
in, the Alps of Savoy and Piedmont, the
Italian lakes, and paxt of Dauphine' (New
Publications), 130
Syr-daria region, reconnaissance of the,
435
Syria, Description of. including Palestine, «
by Mukaddasi, translated from the
Arabic and annotated by Guy le Strange,
Palestine Pilgrims' Text Society (New
Publications), 323
Syrian Stone-Lore; or the Monumental
History of Palestine, by 0. R. Oonder
(New Publications), 259
822
INDEX.
Takhta-Kaeacha Pnag, 245
Tiilbot, Captain, Afghan Burveyg, 574
titid CfkpLtiiu MaiilEiiid, JourDcys in
Afghan istnn, 102 ei scq,
TiiDganika-See nnd dvm Luilnba, Dr, R.
Bolim'a und P. Richard's Routenrmf-
nahmcn zwiachen den (New Mnpa), 328
Taot^rjyikfl, L(ike> and ZanzibnrT monthly
mail catablifihed botwceu* 114
^ ~ — - ^ To, in a Brttli Chair, by
Annie R* Hor^ (New Publieationfl), 68
Tangld Rimge, Tibet, 225 note
Tanner, Prof. Henry, Bridsh Colombiu:
it^ Agricultuml aud Commercial Capa-
bilitica {N(5w FublictJiti^ns)^ 717
Tapochan peak, lishind of 8aipaii^ 75D
Tappenbeck, Lieiittroant, journey down tho
liken je river, 115
Tamwera, The Eruption of, by S. Percy
Smith (New Publications), 718
' Volcano, New Zi aland, PLin of
the Seat of Eruption, 10th June, 188C
(Hvw Maps), -m
Tarirn river, Tibet, 230, 73G
^^., country along the, 176
Tn^hkurgheu town, 105
Tosman, Abel Jari^zoon, door Jlr. Ch. M.
Dozy (New Publieations), 324
Tateyama Mountain, Japan, &i
Tali golti-lield, 093
Tau-kiim sauiia, river Hi, 426 noi«
Tavek-k*fhl oasis, 221)
Tcheniiclitv, M., Imro metrical observationB
in the Ural MouatainK, 54
Tcher^ky, M., gcolu^ieal map of tho
borders! of Lnke Biiikal, 51
T-chet Bdtii Mountain, Hi
Tchibrttchef, P. de, Klein-A^ien (New
Publicftlions), 519
Technical, Industrial, and Trade Educa-
tion, by John Yeats (Now Publications),
721
Tedjend district, eurvcvs in the, 436
Ti'ktiliof, P., 431
Tern by drift-ronle to the Trail STaal, 4&7,
601
Tensple Mountain, Spitzbexgen, 516
Sir Richard, JonrnalB kept in
Hyderabad, Kashmir, Sikklm, and Ne>pal
(New PuMiciitiuns), 393
Tepehua tribe, Vem Cruz, 56S, 570
Terre de feu, Carte ethnographiiiue de
Parch ipel dc la (New Ma^ks), 464
Tetnnld Monntain, 617, 767
Thoal, G. McCalJ. Hihterv of tke Boera in
South Africa (New Publicatioufl), 588
Thian Shan Range, flora of, 428
Thomafl, A,, Etymolc^giachea WtJrlerbncb
Geograpbischer Namon (Hew Pnblica-
tiona), 324
Thompson, V. M., Manual of tho Sextant,
&c. (New Publications), 785
Thnmson, ,Toaeph, lemarka on the Soeiety'i
Expedition to the Natnnli Hilk, 478
Thomson, the late Sir C. Wyville, and Jobm
Murmy, Report on the ScicntiJic Results
of the Voyage of H.M.S. CfmllenQer^
prepared under !be anperintendenee of
(New Publicjilions), 324, 720
Thorpe, Blrs,, The Balkan Peninsula, by
Emilo Do Laveleye, translated by (New
Puhlicatjona), 315
Thoxiar, M. A., progress of journey in
South Ameriea, 55, 388
Tboukt, M. J., Observations on the Outf-
Stream, 762
^ voyage along the coosta of New-
foundland, 256
TliuillJer, General Sir H., remarks on tho
Utilisation of the Ordnance Survey, 704
Thum, Everard F. ira, VL«it of the Go-
vernor to the Pomeroon District (Kow
Publications), 717
Thyra, the, 684
Tibet, A Journey round Chinese TnrkiatiLn*
and olong the Northern Frontier of, by
A. D. Carey, 731 li *< /.
Tibet, climate, flora, und fauna of, 222, 223
— — Eastern, and North-western ChmOf
Potanin's Journey in, 233
Prejevaisky's Journeyi in, 221 H scq,
» the Lamas, survey of, 354, 366
The Lu River of J is it the source of
the Irawadi or the Salwin? by General
J. T. Walker, 352 et uq.
Tierra del Fuego, M. Ramon Lista'e expe-
dition to, 384
Tietii river, 109, 110
Tillo, Major-Genera! A. Ton, estimates of
the longest rivers in the world, 120
on the climates of tlio globe, 763
on the great waterabeds of the globe,
310
Timbuktu, M. G. Angelica new route to»
623
Tirol, Distanz- und Reisekarte von, tou
J* Meurer (New Maps), 526
Toll, Baron von, and Dr. Bunjje, explora-
tiona in the New Sibeiiaii Islandis, 51,
177, 577
Tomaschek, W., Znr Kunde der Hamoa^
Halbinsel (New Publications), 712
Tonking, the harbours of, M. Henaixd on,
255
Tosa province, Japan, 98
To tern ism, by J. G. Frazer (N'ow Public^.
tiona), 783
Totonaea tribe, Vera CVuz, 568, 570
Trans-Cneplan deserts, I^f. A. KonBchiD*B
observations on the, 625, 626
^-~ Region, Russian Survey m
the, 43G
Transkasplschcn Gebiete nnd von Nord-
Chorassan, Karle der (New Alaps), SSS
Transvaal and Adjacent Territories, Fur*
ther Correspondence respecting tho
Aflairs of tho (New Publioiitions), 136
Travancore and noigiibouring States,
survey of, 577
Tmversi, Dr., expedition to the Snai Lake
and Upper Hawash, 627
INDEX.
823
Trinidad, Guide to, by J. H. Collens (New
Publications), 394
Tristram, Bey. Canon, remarks on the
Teaching of Geography at the Universi-
ties, 700
Tsad, Lake, S04
rivers of, 298, 299
Tsenbo defile, 41
Tshigunda Language of the Lower Zam-
besi Region, by the Rev. Dr. and Mrs.
Laws (New Publications), 58
Tsitsihar, town of, 551
Tubingen, Umgebunes-Karte fiir die Gar-
nisonstadt (New ^ps), 137
T*umen or Kauli Chiang river, 557
Tumtian natives, 596, 600, 607
TuDg-ching-chan, town of, 561
Tunis, forests of, T. B. Sandwith's obser-
vations on the, 682
Gulf of. Dr. Fischer's observations
on changes of the c^st line of, 243
Tunisie, A travers lu, Etudes sur les Oasis,
d:c., by L. Barabau (New Publications),
587
La, by J. L. De Lanessan (New
Publications), 649 .
Tupende tribe, 756
Turfan, city of, 749
Turgute-Kalmuk tribe, 215
Turkistan and Tibet, A. D. Carey's travels
in, 175
Chinese, A Journey round, and
along the Northern Frontier of Tibet, by
A. D. Carey, 731 et seq.
Tyndull Glacier, Alaska, 274
U.
Uapa or Shark river, Fernando Po, 624
Ugen river, 736
Ulanga river, 48
Uliunghur, Lake, 215
IJluu river, 474
Ulysses; or Scenes and Studies in many
Lands, by W. G. Palgrave (New Publi-
cations), 784
Umbelosi valley, 499
Um Digal quarries, 680
Umlauft, Professor Dr. F., Die Alpen (New
Publications), 712
Ungam, Orts- und Strassen- Earte des
Konigreich, von A. Steinhauser (New
Maps), 592
Unirouk Island, Alaska, 278
United Kingdom, The Ordnance Survey
of the, by Colonel T. P. White (New
Publications), 205
States, Annual Beportof the Board
of Regents of the Smithsonian Institu-
tion (New Publications), 589
Annual Report of the Chief
Signal Officer of the Army to the Secre-
tary of War for 1885 (New Publica-
tions), 521
Canada and Mexico, Brad-
shaw's A.B.C. Dictionary to the (New
Publications), 322
United States. Fourth Annual Report of
the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secre-
tary of the Smithsonian Institution
(New Publications), 521
Geographical Survey. Geo-
logical History of Lake Lahontan, North-
western Nevada, by I. Cook Bussell
(New Publications), 321
Geographical and Geologi-
cal Survey, On the, by Josiah Pierce,
704
Geological Survey, Bul-
letins of the (Department of the Interior)
(New Publications), 58, 321, 460
Annual
Report of the (New Publications). 781
• Mono-
graphs of the (New Publications), 521
• Hydrographic Charts (New
Maps), 66, 140, 330, 466, 529, 594, 728,
788
Indexed County Pocket
Maps (New Maps), 657, 724
Map of the Western (New
Maps), 788
Report on the Mining
Industries of the, Ac., by R. Pumpelly
(New Publications), 522
Reports of the Consular
Officers of the, on Emigration and Im-
migration (New Publications), 523
Tenth Census of the (New
Publications), 58, 133, 588
Universities, The Teaching of Geography
at the, By H. J. Mackinder, 698
Ural Mountains, M. Tchemichev's baro-
metrical observations in the, 54
Northern, reconnaissance of the
eastern slope of the, 432
Urumtsi town, 749
Usaungula station, East Africa, 494
Ushba, Mount, 767
U-tui-shan Mountains, 233
Uzaramo, new stations founded in, 494
V.
Yalebt-Matet, M., Explorations in South
Tunis, 255
Vancouver Island, Die Indianerstiimme
von, und an der Kiiste von Britisch-
Columbia (New Maps), 464
Van der Chijs, J. A., De Vestigiug van
het Nederlandsche Gezag over de Ban-
da-Eilanden (New Publications), 260
Nederlandsch-Indisch Pla-
kaatboek (New Publications), 260
Van der Stok, Dr. J. P., Regenwaamemiii-
gen in Nederlandsch-Indie (New Publi-
cationsX 459
Varaldo, O., L'ori?:ine di Cristoforo Co-
lombo (New Publications), 721
Vedda trilie of Ceylon, 392
Venezuela und Brazil, Boundary Surveys
of, 193
VenukofT, ^1., on the altitude of Lake
Bolohoe, 55
834
INDEX.
Vera Cruz, State of, Mexico, The Abori-
ginal Imlian Eaces of the, by A, Baker,
568 et seq.
Yercini^'ten Stiiftteti mid Ton Cunadft,
Landwirtschaftakftrtc! imd iDdtistriekai'te
fier, von A. Supaii (Now Maps), 65
Vetb, P. J., Ontdeldcum en OndcrzoekeiB
(New Publications), 785
Victoria, Geolotry nnd Physi(*al QeO"
frT«pli>% by R. A. F, Murray (New
PiiiUcBlionfl)j 650
" GovcjrnmeDt of, Expedition to the
Oweu Stanley Range, New Guinea, 305
■ Mnp of (New Maps), 65
Vi#oot« R., Nouvean Plau da la VlEe
d* Amiens (New Blnpe), 52B
Vignon, Louis, La Fmofie daiiB )*Afriqne
du Nord (New Pul>liE?ation«), 649
Tillavicencio, Dr. R., La Repulilioa do
Yenezuela bajo el punto de vista de la
Geografla y Topo^afut nic licas y <le la
Bemografia (New Piiblicntions), 52t)
Tircl^ow, Professor, on AcclimatiiatioB, 691
Tfx^ikof, Dr. A., *Die Klimate der Erd<
3S8
Volo river, 473
Wa^^en, W., Salt-range FossfOa. Geologi-
cal Survey of India (New PublicationB),
Wade, Sir T., remarks on a Journey in
ManoburiSf 5*55
remarks on the Lii River of Tibetj
&c., 372
Wadi Zeidun, fi65
Wftganda Tribe of Central Africii, Notes
on the. by R. W, Felkin (Now Publioa-
tionp), 132
Wahlen, E,, Wabre Tairesmiltel inid
Tagliohe Varialion der Tetn|>eratnr an
IB Stutionon dea Rupsiiichen Rciches
(New Publicatjona), 45S
AVakefield, Rev. JI., Vociibulary of the
K^vifuHilo Language (New Publicft-
tioTis), 58S
Walde, A., Tourifitcn-ILirte vom oberen
Murg* nnd Rcnchthiilgebiet (New Maps),
787
Wftldenbnrg, Specialknrte dea KreiMS, von
G. Olbieh (New Maps), 7li3
WalBah Bay regrion, Dr. StapfiTa explora-
liona in tfie, 511
"Walker, General J* T., remarkB tm the
Expedition fwm Upper Asaam to th©
Irawa<li, ic 38
■ — remarks on the Lu River of Tibet,
Ac, 376
The Lu River of Til^et ; ia it the
source of tho Irawadi or the Siilwin?
35t2 ct !^eq,
Wall, II. B. de la Poer^ Matmal of Phyai-
cal Gcogra-pby of Atistialia (New Publi-
cations), 650
"Warn bo river, 708
WaTbnrtoii, Colonel E,» journey acroaa
Weatern Austriilia^ 691, 695
Ward, C. S., Thorough Guide Seriea The
Eastern Countiea, their Watering Places,
Ac. (New Publietttiona), 458
— T. H., The Rtjign of Queen TictOTia :
a Survey of Fifty Years of ProgreaBj
edited by (Ntjw Publication*-), 590
Warren, Sir Chariea, Address as President
of the Geographical Seotiou of the
British Association at Manoheflter, 1887,
629 €i 9€q,
remarks on some defects of the
Ordnance Maps, 704
Waaaerscbeiden, Studien iiber, by Alfred
Philippsnn (New Publications), 60
WaterfuJls, Cataracts, and Gt^yaers, Greats
described and illustrateil, by J, Glbsoii
(New Publicfttioofi), 523
Wateraheds of the Glube, The Greftt,
Geaeml von Tillo on the, 310
Watt, Dr. G., Temarks on the Expedition
from Upper Assam to the Imwadi, &o,,
39
Weather: a Po]mlflr Exposition of tho
Nature of Weatht!r Changea from Day
to Day, by Hon. Ralph Aberorombj
(New Publications), 719
Weiss, Knrt, Ale me Reise nach dem
Kihmn-Ndjarogebiet im Auftra^ der
Dentsch - Oatafrikanigchen Geflellsoluifl
(New Publications), 715
Waie or Makua river, 47, 204, 419, 420
Wembare or Muaru river, 45
Weuiig, L., Earte dor Aipen (New Mapi)^
395
Werre or C>pi river, 292
Western^ Lieut.-Cblonel^ report cm tho
Raian basin, 610
WhartoD, Captain^ remarks on Explora-
liona in South-eastern New Guin*^a, 84
White, Lieut.-Colonel T. P., The Ord-
nance Survey of tho Uwlted Kingdom
(New Publkationa), 205
Whitehonse, Cope« remarks on the Teach-
ing of Qeography at thp Universities, 700
The Riiian I^Ioaria ; or Storage
Reservoir of Middle Egypt» 608 et 9eq.
Wlgi^ins, Captain, trade voyage firna
Europe to Siberia, 683
Wilcox and Burl ion, Lieutenanta, vijit to
Mane hi, 20
Wilde, Dr. Eduardfi, Senrido Argetitino
(New Puhlicfttions), 717
Wilkins, Professor, remarka on the Teacb*
ing of Geography at the Ontveraities,
700
Wilkinaon, Spenaer, on some defects of
tJie Ordnance Mopa, 702
— remarks on the Utilisatioa of
the Ordnance Survey. 704
Williams, J. FraDCon, The Queen 'a Jubiloe
Atlas of the British Empire (New
Maps), 67
WillP, 0. J., Persia As It Is (New PubUca-
tiona), 131
J. T., Between the Nile and the
Congo: Dr. Junker and the (Welle)
Makua, 285 el ieq.
INDEX.
825
Wilson, James H., China : Tnyels and
Investigations in the Middle Kingdom
(New Publications), 779
Wilson, Sir Charles, on the Utilisation of
the Ordnance Survey, 704
Extracts from a Paper on the Utili-
sation of the Ordnance Survey, Maps,
&c. (New Publications), 786
remarks on some defects of the
Ordnance Maps, 703
the late John, Indian Caste (New
Publications), 62
Winsor, Justin, Narrative and Critical
Historv of America, edited by, voL iv.
(New Publications), 207
Narrative and Critical History of
America, edited by, vol. v. (New Pub-
lications), 588
Winton, Sir Francis de, remarks on Be-
tween the Nile and the Congo: Dr.
Junker and the (Welle) Makua, 302
remarks on Explorations in Central
Africa, 418
Wissraann, Lieutenant, expedition to the
Congo region, 640, 776
explorations in Central Africa,
390
Wito-land, 493
Woeikoff, Dr. A., Die Klimate der Erde
(New Publications), 135
Wohlgemuth, Capitan von, Die Oester-
reichische Polarstation Jan Muyen (New
Publications), 263
Wolf, Dr., travels in the Southern Congo
Basin, 129
Dr. Ludwig, Explorations on the
Upper Eassai and Sunknru, 640 et seq,
Dr. T., Piano de Guayaquil
(Ecuador) (New Maps), 464
L., Yolksstamme Central Afrika's
(New Publications), 588
Wolff, Dr., 337
Sir H. Drummond, on the extent of
cultivable land in Egypt, 609
Wolkenhauer, Dr. W., biographical sketch
of Em in Pasha, 251
Wood, F. H., Pictorial Map of Palestine,
giving a bird's-eyo view of the ^oly
Land, &c., by (New Maps), 268
Woodthorpe, Colonel, explorations in north
of India 37, 38
Journey of the Expedition
under, from Upper Assam to the Irawadi,
and return over the Patkoi Range, by
Major C. R. Macgregor, 19 et seq.
■ surveys in Upper Burma,
308
Woodward, H. B., The CJeology of England
and Wales ; with notes on the Physical
Features of the Country (New Publica-
tions), 316
World, Commercial Chart of the, by W.
& A. K. Johnston (New Maps), 786
Handy-volume Atlas of the,
F. Philip & Son (New Maps), 466
New Complete Atlas of the,
G. W. Bacon (New Maps), 268
by
by
World, the longest rive^ in the, Major-
General von Tillo's estimate of, 120
the longest rivers in the, letter
from Edward Hoawood on, 252
Wrangel, Mount, Alaska, 278, 282
Wray, J. A., visit to the Crater-lake of
Chala, on Mount Kilimanjaro, 47
Wright, F. G., observations of the Muir
Glacier of Alaska, 118, 283
Rev. Dr., remarks on Explora-
tions in South-eastern New Guinea, 84
Wylde, A. B., The Red Sea Trade, 691
Wyndham, Australia, 69$
X.
XiNOU river, Brazil, Dr. Earl von den
Steinen's new journey to the, 193
Y.
Yadbintzofp, M., on the desiccation of
Siberian lakes, 51
Yak Walang river, 103
Yakatat Indians, Alaska, 279
Yalu river, 540
Yang-tsze-kiang river, length of, 120, 253
Yao dialects, 115
tribes, 469
Yaro-tsanpo river, 353
the eastern basin of the, 370
Yashil-knl lake, 229
Yate, Lieutenant A. C, England and
Russia Face to Face in Asia (New Pub-
lications), 206
Ycaiohe town, British Honduras, 423
Yeats, John, Technical, Industrial, and
Tnide Education (New Publications),
721
Yegrais tribe, Tibet, 226
Yemen, A Journey through, by Major-
General F. T. Haig, 479 et seq.
Yenesei-Selenga river, length of, 120, 253
Yerim town, 488
York Factory, Depth of Permanently
Frozen SoU at, 769, 770
(jkite Library, formed by Mr. Silver,
Catalogue of the, by B. A. Petheriok
(New Publications), 134
Yoruba CJonntry, Route Survey through,
by W. C. Speeding (New Maps), 529
Yoshinogawa valley, Japan, 99
Yucatan, M. D^ird Chaniay's jonmeys
in, 128
Yule, Colonel, Diary of W. Hedges (New
Publications), 587
remarks on the Expedition from
Upper Assam to the Irawadi, &c., 37
Yusuf, Bahr, roughly describing its present
state and uses, by Captain R. H. Brown,
614
Z.
Zabala, Amado Osowo, Vocabulary of
the Fan Language in West Africa (Now
Publications^ 460
826
INDEX.
Zaire, Embocadora do (New Maps), 657
Zambesi Begion, Lower, The Tshigimda
Language of the, by the Bey. Dr. and
Mrs. Laws (New PublicatioDs), 58
Zondeh tribe, 295, 296
Zanzibar and Lake Tanganyika, monthly
mail established between, by London
Missionfiry Society, 114
— Sultan of, extent of dominions
of, 493
Zapateco tribe, Vera Cruz, 568, 570
Zappu Zapp, chief, 643
Zamfshan, Captain Pariisky's suryey in
the, 434
Zaria,306
Zayas Enriquez, ^fr. B. de, on the Indiar.s
of Vera Cruz, 573
Zeidun, Wadi, 665
Zeit, Jebel, 677
Ziwandea yillage, 187
Zomba, Mount, C>entml Africa, 178
Zongolica, canton of, 570
Zoutpansberg (Transyaal), Carte des Dis-
tricts du, et de Lorenzo Marquez, dressee
par Henri Berthoud (Now Biaps), 211
Zug, Lake, depth of, 680
Zululand, Further Ciorrespondence respetst-
ing the Affairs of, and Adjacent Terri-
tories (New Publications), 715
Zyerinsky, V. V., 431
INDEX TO MAPS.
AFRICA.
Africa, Central (sketch map), 330
Africa, East, Political Boundaries, 530
Africa, West Central, Silya Porto's route
in, 790
Blantyre to Angoni-land, Mr. Last's routes
from, 212
Delagoa Bay and adjoining Country, 498
Egypt, Eastern Desert of, Mr. Floyer's
route, 730
Fayoum, The, and the Baian Basin, 658
Nile, Upper, and Congo, Dr. Junker's jour-
neys between the, 466
AMERICA.
Aloska and Mount St. Elias, Lieutenant
Seton Karr's journey in, 330
British Honduras, Plan of a portion of the
Western Frontier of, and Sketch Map
of, 421
ASIA.
Brahmaputra and Irawadi, Country be-
tween. Colonel Woodthorpe*s route in, 68
Japan, Physical Map of, with Sketch Map
showing Dr. E. Nauroann's routes, 140
Manchuria, Mr. James's route in, 594
Tibet, General Projevalsky's journeys in,
330 (in the bounr) vol. 268)
Tibet, South-eastern, 898
Turkistan, Chinese, and Northern Tibet,
790
AUSTRALASIA.
Jubilee and Philp Biyers, British New
Guinea, 058
New Guinea, South-eastern, Bey. J. Chal-
mer's explorations in, 140
INDEX TO ILLUSTEATIONS.
Mr. Beyan making Friends with the I Furthest Point reached on Jubilee Biyer,
Tumtiuns, 597 | 599
Hayes Biyer, Diagram of Lajidslip in, showing Depth of Frozen Soil, 772
LONDOX: PftlXTKD BT WILLLAM^CLOWXS AKD SOITS, LIMITED, BTAMrO&D STRSBT AXD OHARIVO CX980.